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It Really Works

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I’ve been using my friend Christine as a model for our training articles lately. She has lots of dog-handling experience, looks great in photos, has two very large dogs that we can use (and have) for the photo shoots, and isn’t fazed by anything I ask her to do for the photos.

That is, she hasn’t been fazed yet. But she definitely hesitated when we were taking the pictures of my middle-aged Chihuahua, Tito, for Pat Miller’s article on dogs who hate handling (see “What to Do if your Dog Hates Certain Husbandry Chores (Grooming, Harnessing, Trimming, etc.”). Christine takes care of my dogs when I have to leave town, so she knows Tito and his quirks.

When Tito came to live with us a few years ago, he belonged to my husband’s niece, who bought him as a puppy while still in college. Then she graduated and started looking for a job, and like a lot of young adults, sent her dog to stay with other people while she moved about; Tito had at least five different temporary homes before I was asked whether I could take him “for a few months.”

I said yes, even though I suspected he’d end up with us forever, because he can be a fun little guy. For all of his travails, he still likes people, especially those he’s met before; if you were friendly to him once, he will go crazy when you meet again. He has the most perfect manners on leash of any dog I’ve ever known, never ever allowing the leash to tighten for a moment. He’s a tennis ball addict, and he hikes and swims like a miniature Labrador!

But Tito does not like being picked up or carried. If someone tries to lift him off the ground (“Oh, what a cute little dog!”), they get a rude surprise – a dramatic snarl/bark and air-snap (he’s never actually bitten anyone).

I was educated by Pat Miller years ago to use counter-conditioning and desensitization (CC&D) to change how a dog feels about things – and Tito has had a lot of these sessions over the past few years. For some time, I’ve been able to pick him up without a problem, and even trim his nails and brush his teeth. Other people can, too – as soon as Tito feels confident that they aren’t going to hurt him or force him to do something.

If he perceives a threat, Tito gets ready for battle. If you yell at him, he’ll immediately growl back. If you escalate, so will he. I’m certain that if someone tried to physically punish and force him to comply with something he hadn’t agreed to, he’d fight to his literal death.

But because he’s also experienced force-free training, with no negative consequences for failing to perform a certain behavior, and rich rewards for the tiniest increments of improvement, Tito now generally chooses to try to figure out and do what we want him to do.

When Tito and Christine first met – and she immediately tried to pick him up – she experienced his snarly “I don’t do dat!” response. So when I told her I wanted her to pick him up and clip his nails for some photos, she hesitated – not because she was afraid, but because she knows him well and didn’t want to push him into a corner.

We started by doing just that, in a mild way, because I knew we could elicit a snarl (or worse), by waving some clippers in his direction (see photo in What to Do if your Dog Hates Certain Husbandry Chores (Grooming, Harnessing, Trimming, etc). Then we started a CC&D session, with Christine giving him bits of chicken for his cooperation. Because we had started rudely, and pushed forward at an unrecommended fast pace (for the sake of the photos), Tito was wary at first. But when, halfway through the session that was supposed to lead up to clipping a single nail, Tito spontaneously hopped into Christine’s lap as if to say, C’mon, let’s get this over with!, she was surprised and touched. She didn’t hesitate at that point, though. Instead, she praised him, gave him some chicken, and clipped his nails!

Letters and Corrections: June 2015

In the May issue, we published an article, “Outfoxing Foxtails,” that included an endorsement of the Outfox Field Guard, a protective hood for dogs that is made out of a fine mesh, allowing the dog to run and breathe freely while protecting him from getting foxtails in his eyes, ears, nose, and mouth. We failed to include a phone number for the company that makes and sells the Outfox Field Guard, however. That number is (800) 261-7737. Orders may also be made online at outfoxfordogs.com. We regret the omission.

I want to thank you for your article, “How to Prevent a Bad Adoption” (WDJ May 2015). Having recently driven two and a half hours to see a rescued Border Collie who was nothing like his description, I found it very pertinent.

I’ve had multiple experiences during my search for a new dog that have led me to give up for the time being. I’ve decided, when I’m ready, I’ll buy a puppy from a reputable breeder. That way, I’ll have more of an idea what/whom I will be getting.

I am finding, from both my own and friends’ experiences, that it is more and more difficult to find a relatively sane dog to adopt. I have a theory about this. I think the rescue groups are focusing more and more on the dogs they perceive as “victims” and less on finding good pets who will fit decently in the home of the average owner. So, in order to place these damaged dogs, they have to cover up the truth about the extent of their behavioral and emotional problems.

I am very concerned that since so much room is being taken by the more damaged dogs, more adoptable dogs will end up being euthanized because there won’t be space for them. A case in point: the Korean dogs saved from being eaten a few months ago and shipped to several rescues in the U.S. Until recently, I was a volunteer at a shelter that took some of these dogs. The adults were adopted fairly quickly – and many were returned because of their extreme behaviors. The puppies were feral and dangerous and underwent intensive socialization. I don’t know the outcome because, frankly, I couldn’t stand to volunteer there anymore. But those dogs took up pens, and many hours of the staff trainers’ time. Both were limited resources that could have been devoted to more happily adoptable dogs.

Name withheld by request

Via email

I just read “Snake Aversion Without Shock” (WDJ May 2015). We live in Nova Scotia, where there are no poisonous snakes, but we do have porcupines. Our young Husky recently had to make an emergency trip to the vet for a face full of quills; thankfully we were just a car ride away. If the quilling happened on a camping trip it would have been very serious. The same training for snake avoidance would work for porcupine avoidance I should think! We will be giving it a try.

Peggy Hopper

Via email

Thanks for your comments, and sorry about your dog! The article mentioned that the exercises taught by both shock-free trainers mentioned in the article are also useful for dealing with dogs who chase toxic toads, skunks, or porcupines. While the dangers presented by the abovementioned are dramatic, it’s no less important to teach your dog to resist chasing cats or cars, or demonstrating a reliable “leave it” behavior when you drop one of your prescription medications or a chunk of dark chocolate.

I think my take on “Snake Aversion without Shock” will be unpopular. Although the idea sounds interesting, I want my dogs to be afraid of rattlesnakes, and stay away if they see, smell, or hear one. I live in the outskirts of Tucson, Arizona, and avoiding rattlesnakes is a matter of life and death in the Sonoran desert.

I don’t have a problem using a shock collar for rattlesnake aversion training; it is quick and will save their lives, maybe the dog owner’s life too. Force-free positive/clicker training is my choice for agility, tricks, obedience, etc. Force-free rattlesnake avoidance training would take too long, especially when you needed that training last week.

Colleen DeGrado
(Comment on WDJ website)

Thanks for the opportunity to respond to your concerns. Lots of owners regard force-free training as great for tricks and games, but not “serious training.”

However, force-free methods are used with great success to train dogs for very serious tasks that are also a matter of life and death. The best example is probably explosive detection training. In this type of training, the last thing they want to train the dogs to be is afraid. A dog that ran away when he detected the odor of certain chemicals would be of no use to anyone. Rather, in this training, they want the dogs to halt immediately and alert their handlers to the odor; then the handlers can give them a cue for the most appropriate next thing they should do, whether that’s continuing to hold still, back up, return to the handler, or continue forward.

That’s exactly the type of training that we described in the article. The goal of shock-free snake avoidance training is to train the dog to recognize the sight, sound, and smell of snakes, and to regard any sign of snakes as a cue to go to his owner immediately.

But as you said, and as noted by one of the trainers we quoted in the article, Jamie Robinson (who is based in Tucson, by the way), this training is not a quick fix; it requires commitment. If I lived in the Sonoran desert, I think this training would be my top priority!

Finally, there is no guarantee that a dog who is subjected to one of those shock-based snake avoidance training sessions will associate being shocked and made afraid with the sight, sound, and/or smell of the snake. He may, instead, associate the shock with a group of people standing around a parking lot, or the smell of the snake handler’s cologne (bummer if it’s the same one your husband wears), or the snake handler’s cowboy hat.

There just isn’t any way to instill fear in your dog in a precise or reliable way – and if it goes awry, and he develops “irrational” fears or phobias as a result of a crash course in shock-collar-based snake avoidance, you may never be able to help him completely shed those fears or phobic behaviors.

Trimming a Dog’s Toenails

showing dog nail clippers
Christine is on Step 6 as described; Tito is doing great.

Whenever you need to perform some routine grooming or husbandry task on your dog, try to both employ counter-conditioning and to give your dog a sense of control or choice in the matter. Even behaviors that don’t lend themselves well to choice, such as trimming hair and medicating ears, can incorporate an element of choice and priming by teaching your dog to “station.”

To “go to station” means to to go to a specific spot where nine times out of 10 (or better yet, 99 times out of 100), really good, fun stuff happens. If, every once in a great while, a slightly less fun (but not hugely aversive) procedure happens, it shouldn’t be enough to change his happy association with his station, especially if you do much of the classical conditioning away from the station, and invite him to station only when he has a positive association with all the parts of the procedure. Remember, do multiple repetitions at every step until the dog is happy!

dog nail clipping training
We moved through the steps too quickly; Tito is not ready to have his foot touched. He moaned (a Chihuahua prelude to a growl), his expression is guarded, and he pulled his foot away.

Classical Conditioning Approach to Nail Clipping:

1. Show your dog the nail clippers; feed him a treat.

2. Move clippers toward dog; treat.

3. Let him sniff the clippers; treat.

4. Move clippers as if you were snipping nails, several inches from dog; treat.

5. Move clippers toward the dog’s feet; treat.

6. Touch clippers to his chest or shoulder; treat.

7. With clippers close to his feet, move them as if snipping nails; treat.

8. Touch his foot with one hand while holding clippers near his body; treat.

9. Pick up and hold his foot for a brief moment while holding clippers near his foot; treat.

10. Pick up and hold his foot for a brief moment while snipping clippers near his foot; treat.

11. Pick up and hold his foot, spreading his toes apart, as if you were trying to get a toenail into position to be cut, while holding clippers near his foot; treat.

12. Pick up and hold his foot, spreading his toes apart, and touch the side of the clippers to a toenail or two; treat.

13. Pick up and hold his foot, spreading his toes apart. Clip a tiny slice of one nail; treat.

14. Once your dog is happily on board for all of these steps, invite your dog to his station for the procedure. This introduces a small element of choice, but choice nevertheless.

dog nail clipping training
As we approached Step 12, Tito suddenly hopped onto Christine’s lap! She gave him some treats and clipped a couple nails. Huge success!

Learn more about how to train your dog to accept being touched for basic husbandry chores.

Lifting Your Dog

Christine has lure-shaped Tito to put his front paws on her leg, and is gradually adding the presence and pressure of her hands under his chest (a step in the direction of lifting him). He wears an ideal, happy, “Where’s my chicken?” expression in anticipation of his reward for his cooperation.

Does your dog ever growl or snap when you try to pick him up? Use this counter-conditioning technique to make him want to be lifted up!

1. Place both hands briefly, gently, on either side of your dog’s spine, and then feed him a treat.

2. Gradually move your hand down and under your dog’s ribcage on the far side, touching and feeding him a treat several times at each step.

3. Gradually move your other hand around the front of your dog’s chest to his opposite shoulder, touching and feeding him several times at each step.

4. Put light pressure on your dog with both hands, gradually hugging him toward you, and then feed him a treat.

5. Gradually increase pressure, feeding him treats several times at each step.

6. Hug your dog against your chest, lifting upward slightly; release and treat.

7. Gradually increase the amount of lift pressure until you are picking him up, giving him a treat several times at each step.

Dog’s choice approach, small dog

1. Shape or lure-shape your dog to go into a carrier on cue.

2. Lift the carrier to transport your dog to the desired location.

3. Treat while carrier is being carried, to offset any negative association with the movement of the carrier.

4. Treat when you place the carrier at the destination, again to maintain a positive association with the moving process.

Another dog’s choice, small to medium-sized dog

1. Shape or lure-shape your dog to jump into your lap when you are seated on the floor. Put the behavior on cue.

2. Make a circle of your arms in your lap so when he jumps into your lap he is jumping into your arms. Practice until the behavior is fluent (happens quickly and easily) and on cue.

3. Kneel, and cue him to jump into your arms. Practice until fluent.

4. Sit in a chair and cue him to jump into your arms. Practice until fluent.

5. Stand and cue him to jump into your arms. Be sure you catch him!

A third dog’s choice, any sized-dog

1. Using a portable ramp or steps made for dogs, shape or lure-shape your dog to walk up the ramp or the steps. Put it on cue.

2. Practice until the behavior is fluent.

3. Use the ramp or steps in place of picking him up when you need him on an elevated surface such as getting into the back of your SUV, or onto the exam table at your veterinarian’s office.

Learn more about how to train your dog to accept being touched for basic husbandry chores.

How to Put a Harness on a Dog(Jacket, Thundershirt, etc.)

How to put a harness on a dog.

Some behaviors don’t lend themselves well to a total choice approach, but you may be able to use a Choice/Conditioning-hybrid procedure, still giving your dog some sense of control over his own world. Here’s one such procedure:

Classical Conditioning Approach

1. Hold up the harness in front of your dog with one hand; feed him a treat.

2. Let your dog sniff or nose-touch the harness; treat.

3. Let your dog sniff the harness and feed him treats through the opening that will go over his head.

4. Let him sniff the harness, and hold treats farther away so he has reach farther into the harness to eat them.

5. With his head through the harness, allow the harness to rest on his neck; treat.

6. Touch the straps that buckle; treat.

7. Move the straps that buckle; treat.

8. Touch the two sides of the buckle together; treat.

10. Snap the buckle closed; treat. (If your dog is sensitive to sounds, you might choose to counter-condition the sound of the buckle snapping closed first (or the Velcro sound of a Thundershirt), prior to and separate from the procedure of putting the harness or shirt on the dog).

Choice and Classical Conditioning

1. Shape your dog to walk into the harness suspended to give him access. (Click and treat as he offers to move incrementally farther into the suspended harness.)

2. When he is voluntarily moving into the harness, use classical conditioning Steps 6 through 10 above to complete the process.

Learn more about how to train your dog to accept being touched for basic husbandry chores.

Cleaning Dog Feet: Training Your Dog to Accept Cleaning

dirty dog paws

For all classical conditioning procedures, do multiple repetitions of each step, feeding your dog a high-value treat (I like to use bits of fresh roasted or canned chicken) after each repetition. Only move to the next step when your dog becomes clearly happy at the previous step; this lets you know he’s made the association between the procedure and the high-value treat.

If he seems uncomfortable at any step, back up to the previous step until he’s happy again, and then figure out a smaller, intermediate step. In this exercise (wiping muddy paws), an intermediate step between Step 1 and Step 2 below might be to put pressure on the foot but not pick it up. Note that for proper classical conditioning, you present the stimulus first (for example, touching his foot), and then present the food. You want him to think that the touch makes the treat appear.

1. Touch your dog’s foot; then feed him a treat.

2. Hold his foot for a brief moment; treat.

3. Hold a towel in your hand (in front of him); treat.

4. Touch the towel to his foot; treat.

5. Holding the towel in one hand, lift and hold his foot for a moment; treat.

6. Holding the towel, lift his foot with your other hand, and touch his foot with the towel; treat.

7. Rub his foot gently with the towel; treat.

8. Rub his foot more vigorously with towel; treat.

The “Dog’s Choice” Approach:

When you train your dog to do any alternative method (in this case, for getting his paws clean), make the training process rewarding enough that your dog will happily choose to offer the behavior when you ask for it.

1. Start by training your dog to walk through a plastic tub with water in it. (Start with an empty tub and add water gradually if your dog is worried about the water). Use shaping, luring, or a combination of both.

2. Shape your dog to stand on an absorbent mat or towel to wick off the water. Alternatively, shape your dog to actually wipe his feet on the absorbent mat or towel to hasten the drying process.

3. Put the behavior (walk through tub and then stand or wipe paws on mat) on cue, so you can invite your dog to choose to perform it. If you have trained him well, he will happily choose to offer the behavior when you ask.

Learn more about how to train your dog to accept being touched for basic husbandry chores.

How to Train Your Dog to Accept Husbandry Chores

woman holding nail clippers near dog
Does your dog respond with a definite, “NO WAY!” when you pull out the nail clippers?

[Updated Dec 21, 2022]

I put my hands on my dogs at least a few dozen times a day. It might be to attach or untangle a leash, look into ears, check teeth, brush or trim fur in various places, put on a Thundershirt, apply flea and tick preventative, or just to feel the soft silky warmth of dog under my hand. We humans are a tactile species, and with our handy opposable thumbs, we’re always doing something to manipulate our canine companions and their body parts.

Many dogs love being touched by us as much as we love touching them. When I sit on the sofa in the evenings typing on my laptop, I have dogs snuggled close to me on each side! But dogs aren’t born with a natural love of being touched by humans. They have to learn that human touch is good.

A well-socialized puppy learns early in life that human hands make good things happen. This is classical conditioning – giving your pup a good association with touch (and with all the other things he’s likely to encounter in his lifetime). A well-socialized pup is an optimist, believing that the world is a good place, and new things are safe unless and until proven otherwise. Getting your dog to accept new things throughout his life like Thundershirts, Calming Caps, nail clippers, stethoscopes, and otoscopes is much easier if he is well socialized. (We will publish an article about proper socializing in an upcoming issue.)

If your dog has no problem whatsoever with any kind of husbandry procedure you inflict on him – from trimming nails to getting dressed in a rainsuit, well, count your lucky stars, and show him your appreciation for his continued cooperation!

Dog Hates Being Touched?

But what if, for whatever reason, your dog hates being touched? Or maybe he likes being petted, but won’t let you pick him up, or won’t allow you to look for and carefully pull off a tick? Or maybe it’s just that he hates a certain procedure, whether it’s getting his ears cleaned or his teeth brushed.

“Counter-conditioning” is the most powerful tool to use to literally counter those negative responses. Counter-conditioning is the process of changing your dog’s existing association with something from one state to another – usually from negative to positive.

As an example, say someone once made the mistake of muzzling your dog and forcibly holding him down while clipping his nails; your dog probably now thinks nail trimming is a terrifying ordeal. You can use counter-conditioning to convince him, instead, that nail trimming is a wonderful thing, by pairing bits and pieces of the nail trimming process with high-value treats, and gradually putting the whole process together. You are working to convince your dog that nail trimming actually makes really good stuff happen.

But that’s not all you can do! You can use counter-conditioning to invite your dog to willingly and happily participate in the process of any husbandry procedure that is currently problematic for her. I’ll discuss the “how” of the process for several different procedures in just a moment.

Creating Opportunities for Making Choices for Your Dog

We humans tend to be happier with our lives when we can make our own choices. Our dogs do, too! The better we are at giving them opportunities to make choices for themselves and setting them up to want to make the right choices, the happier we all are. If you can convince your dog to willingly and happily choose to participate in a husbandry procedure, everyone is better off.

An alternative to the above-described counter-conditioning for nail trimming is to provide your dog with a canine-sized emery board, teach him to use it, and let him choose to file his own nails. (Note: Some owners report that their dogs love to file their own nails so much that they have to put the board away or their dogs file their nails down to the bloody quick.)

Whatever procedures you use, you can set your dog up for success by “priming” before you begin.

Priming is a behavioral effect in which exposure to a stimulus influences a response to a later stimulus. While well documented in human behavior, the concept of priming is less-known in the world of dog training and behavior. Simply put, if you “prime” your dog with tasty treats or a fun activity prior to engaging in the handling activity, your dog is in a happier frame of mind to begin the procedure, and thus better able to make choices and respond from a less stressful place.

Here are some handling challenges and how you can use choice and counter-conditioning protocols to make life less stressful for you and your dog:

Trimming Your Dog’s Toenails

Lifting Your Dog

Putting on a Harness (or Thundershirt, Jacket, etc)

Wiping Muddy Feet

This may seem tedious, but it’s important to understand that breaking each activity down into many small steps accomplishes two things. First, it helps your dog understand what it is that you want. Second, it makes the learning process much more engaging and enjoyable for him.

There are countless procedures that involve touching and handling our dogs, and each could be spelled out in a protocol that uses choice, classical conditioning, or a combination of the two, to make life easier for both you and your dog. But I bet by now you’ve got the idea.

Your dog’s challenge might be the application of topical flea and tick preventative, cleaning and/or putting medication in ears, electric clippers, flea combing, brushing teeth, pulling ticks, or something else. No matter which challenge it is, it’s always better to figure out how to help your dog become a willing partner in the activity than to restrain and force him into accepting the procedure. Unless it’s a medical emergency, there’s no need to use force!

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A Good Reason to Neuter

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Enjoying the mild spring weather, I was working with all the doors and windows in my house open. So when my dogs, who had free run of the house and backyard, started to bark at something, I looked out the window and saw a stray dog wandering around the front yard. He’s about 50 pounds, some sort of Kelpie/Cattle Dog-mix. I got up and went out the front door, and he ran off down the street. I almost started to look for a leash and treats, but I was busy, on deadline, so I went back to work. Ten minutes later, the barking started again, and there is the dog again.

I went outside again, this time with a leash and treats and Otto, my ambassador for loose dogs. Otto is big enough to handle himself with almost any dog, dog-savvy enough to not get into a fight with even a very rude dog, smart enough to run if the other dog is downright aggressive, and obedient enough that I can call him away from even a very intense greet-and-pee session. Nine times out of 10, I can open my side gate and the stray dog will follow Otto into my backyard. And then I can read the dog’s tag (if he has one) or call animal control.

The dog started to run again when I open my front door, but as soon as he saw Otto, he reversed direction and headed straight toward us, head and tail high. Oh good, there is a tag on his collar. I patted my leg and said, “Hey pup!” brightly, but he completely ignored me and fixated on Otto, leaning in to sniff Otto in a very forward fashion. Apparently Otto smelled GOOD, because two seconds later, the dog leaped onto Otto’s back, trying to hump him. Otto whirled around with a big, bear-like roaring growl and bark – “No WAY, buddy!” But the dog was like a laser-guided missile – completely ignoring me, and fixating on Otto’s nether end. He kept trying to jump up on Otto, who kept growl/snapping and whirling. Somehow, I managed to drop a slip-lead over his head and pulled him away from Otto. Whew!

Relieved to have the dog under control, Otto trotted a few yards away and peed on a tree. Seeing this, the dog immediately went into plow-horse mode, pulling with all his might to go pee on the tree, too.

This is not my favorite kind of dog: stray, intact, and so charged with testosterone and bad manners that he’s about to cause a fight, so eager is he to hump a neutered male dog 20 pounds bigger than he is.

I tied the dog to the tree, and put Otto in the house. Then I went back out and read the dog’s ID tag. Great! It had an address and a phone number; the address is just around the corner and up the block from me. I untied the leash and started walking that way, while using my cell phone to call the number on the tag.

The dog’s owner answered and seemed unsurprised to hear that the dog was out. He asked if I could put the dog back in his yard. Sure, no problem. I got to the house and approached the side gate, noting that there are “coyote rollers” on top of the six-foot fence – lengths of PVC pipe threaded onto a strand of wire fencing; the pipe rolls when a dog tries to jump/climb over the fence. It’s a smart solution that foils the escape plans of many dogs, but this dog obviously found some other way out. I had a feeling this wasn’t going to work, but I put the dog behind the fence and closed the gate.

By the time I reached my front porch, the dog was right behind me, eager for another encounter with Otto. Okay, plan B.

I opened my door, let Otto out, and when the dog started trying, again, to hump my increasingly annoyed dog, I got the lead slipped over the dog’s head again, and put Otto in the house. Thanks and sorry again, Otto!

I called the owner again. He told me that he called his young adult son and asked him to come home from work and and chain the dog up in the backyard. Ah! I said, I could have done that for you. He tells me, no problem, the son is on his way, should be home any minute.

I took the dog back to his house, and tied the leash to a post on the front porch. Another dog comes running to the side gate, a young Australian Cattle Dog-mix, female, maybe five or six months old. Cute! I waited for a few minutes, to see if the dog can handle being tied up. He laiddown on the shady porch, so I felt fine about walking away.

Five minutes later, the dog is on my porch again. Gah! He has his collar on still, and there is no stub of leash, so he didn’t slip the collar or chew his way free. I let Otto out of my house – bait dog! – and walk back toward the dog’s house, him trying to hump Otto the whole way. I am really not liking this dog!

Halfway there, I saw a young man who was obviously looking for the dog. He yelled the dog’s name, to no effect. “It’s okay,” I called to him, “we’re on the way!”

When we reached his front yard, the young man said the obvious: “I unsnapped the leash and he just took off!” He started grabbing at the dog, trying to get ahold of the dog’s collar and yelling the dog’s name. The dog ignored him like he ignored me; all he can think about is humping Otto. I managed to lasso the dog again. “Your dad told me you were going to chain him up? Where is the chain? I can take him there.”

The young man opened the gate and we all went into the very large backyard. There is a small chain-link pen back there, just four feet high, and the puppy was now in there. The young man led the way to a spot where a long cable is fastened to a tree. I clipped it onto the dog’s collar and then Otto and I backed out of the dog’s range. The guy was thanking me, rushing around; he had to get back to work.

I looked around. Lots of stuff for the cable to get wrapped around. Lots of holes where the dog has dug. No water. I said, “Is there a bucket or something for water?” The guy looked around and grabbed a five-gallon bucket, and started to run some water into it. He was grumbling about the dog, and how he’s annoyed because the dog is going to teach his dog, the puppy, some bad habits. I said, “Well, first thing, get the darn dog neutered! He will be less likely to be so obsessed with escaping – and he won’t get your little female pregnant!”

The guys says, “Well, we were going to breed them!”

I was incredulous, but kept my tone teasing and playful. “Why the heck would you do that? Neither one is a purebred, and he’s an a**hole!”

He responded with something about them both being working stock dogs. Uh huh. Here in town. Okay, good luck, and have a nice day.

FIRST THING this morning, the dog was on my front porch, whining for Otto. I got a leash on him and walked him back to his house, and knocked on the door. No one home. Little dogs barking inside. Then I took him back to my house, tied him to the tree out front again, and called animal control. An officer came right over to pick up the dog.

I feel a little bad for not calling the owner again; his number is still in my cell phone. But maybe a ticket or two will inspire him to take more serious measures to contain the dog. And neuter him!

 

 

 

 

 

Are Snakes Becoming More Toxic?

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The May 2015 issue of Whole Dog Journal contains two in-depth articles about the venomous snakes in North America that are potentially dangerous or deadly to dogs. The main article discusses the rattlesnake vaccine and antivenom treatments, as well as practical tips for avoiding snakes and emergency first-aid for snake bites. The second article discusses snake-avoidance training methods that do not involve shock collars. Subscribers to the WDJ can check out these articles and more at wholedogjournal.com — and in the hard copy of the magazine, in their mailboxes now.

© Amwu

However, we ran out of room in the issue to discuss another important : Discussion of the evidence that venomous snakes may be developing increased toxicity.

In 2008, toxicologists at the Banner Poison Control Center in Phoenix, Arizona, one of the nation’s busiest poison centers treating rattlesnake bites, warned emergency physicians of a troubling trend.

“Over the last five or six years, we have noticed an increased incidence of critically ill rattlesnake bite patients being admitted to our service,” wrote Dr. Steven Curry, the center’s Director of Medical Toxicology. “The collective clinical findings in these patients mimic aspects of anaphylaxis and commonly include one or more of the following: rapid collapse within a few minutes of being bitten; hypotension and shock, commonly requiring epinephrine; rapid, profound third-spacing of fluids with hypovolemia and hemoconcentration, sometimes with only minimal or absent swelling; swelling or angioedema of the lips, tongue and throat, sometimes requiring emergency airway management; and profound weakness and/or diarrhea.”

Toxicologists could not say why so many bite victims experienced severe and life-threatening symptoms. In the few cases where physicians with Banner Poison Control Center were able to examine the snake responsible, it was a Mojave rattlesnake. However, in most cases, the rattlesnake was not identified.

“We never recommend that any attempt be made to capture or kill the offending snake because of the danger involved,” Dr. Curry said. “Therefore, we don’t know that Mojave rattlesnakes alone are responsible for an increasing frequency of severely envenomated patients.

“Physician toxicologists with Banner Poison Control Center have admitted about 50 to 75 rattlesnake bite patients annually for nearly 30 years,” Dr. Curry added. “Prior to 2002, we saw patients with the above findings about once every two or three years. Now we see several of these patients each year, and have recently become aware of similar patients in nearby states.”

Dr. Curry and his colleagues have communicated with poison center toxicologists in Tucson, Arizona, Southern California, and Colorado, where similar trends have been observed.

In June 2012, the San Diego Union-Tribune reported that in and around San Diego, California, rattlesnake bites were increasing in frequency and becoming more dangerous. The article quoted Dr. Richard Clark, director of the Division of Medical Toxicology at the University of California San Diego Health System and medical director for the San Diego office of the California Poison Control System. “While San Diego County is seeing a rise in snake bite cases each year,” he explained, “the more alarming factor is the toxicity of the bite. The symptoms and wounds we’re seeing are worse than in the past. Some speculate that with the modern world encroaching on nature, it could be survival of the fittest. Perhaps only the strongest, most venomous snakes survive.”

All the more reason to exercise caution in any area known for its rattlesnakes.

Crates or Seat Belts, People!

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Sorry if this is the fifth time in the past year that we’ve run a reminder in either the magazine, the blog, or the Facebook page, but here goes:

To give your dog the best chance of survival in a car accident, you really have to have him or her in a crate that is solidly fastened into the car, or seat-belted in a proper harness, one that has been independently crash-tested and approved by the Center for Pet Safety (CPS). For more reasons why you should use only a product that has been evaluated by this group, see our January 2015 article, “Restraining Order: Our Car Safety Harness Recommendation.” (Current subscribers can read all past issues online at no extra charge; the link is here: https://www.whole-dog-journal.com/care/collars-harnesses-leashes-muzzles/whole-dog-journals-car-safety-harness-recommendation/
).

I was at my local shelter on Saturday, helping someone adopt a dog, one I’d fostered for less than a day. A month or so ago I’d seen a photo of “Jacks” on the shelter website, and thought, “Cute! He looks like (my dog) Otto’s Mini-me!” Then I saw him in person at the shelter last week, when I walked the shelter aisles while waiting to speak to a friend who works there. Again, I thought he was such a cutie, and wondered why it was taking him so long to get snapped up. So when I had some time the other day, I went to the shelter, and signed him out as a foster dog. I took him for a walk with a friend and our combined four other dogs, and he was excellent, so well-behaved and well-socialized. I gave him a bath, took a few pictures, put them on my Facebook page, and by the next morning, heard from someone who wanted to meet him. Yay! We met, and before it was noon, we were at the shelter and the lovely young woman was adopting him. Yay!

But while I was in the lobby of the shelter, waiting for the very busy staff to go over the adoption papers with Jacks’ new owner, I started talking to another lady who was waiting for help from the shelter staff. She was from Oregon, and the day before, she told me, she was driving through the area on her way to a wedding, when she was in a traffic accident on the highway. Her car rolled over and was totaled. In the crash, she told me, she hit her head hard enough that the ambulance crew insisted that she be taken by ambulance to a local hospital. Her car was towed, and her dog, who was in a crate fastened in the back of the car, was taken to the shelter by California Highway Patrol officers. Thank goodness! The dog was only bruised, but otherwise unharmed – and so was she, as it turns out. She had been released by the hospital that morning, and one of her adult sons had picked her up from the hospital and had driven her to the shelter to get her dog. Ack! I started crying in the shelter lobby, completely caught up in her tale, and completely sympathizing with her anxiety as she waited for the staff to go get her dog out of the kennels in the back and return him to her!

As stressed as she was all night and all that morning, waiting to hear how her dog was, and WHERE he was, and waiting to get him returned to her, she was lucky; if her dog had been loose in the car, he may well have been smashed up or sustained a broken neck in the car during the crash, thrown from the car in the crash, or jumped out of one of the car’s broken windows after the crash. In the minutes immediately after the accident, had he been loose, he may have run from the car in a panic, and gotten lost or, worse, hit by another car on the highway. Thank goodness he was in a crate that was properly fastened into the car!!

If you haven’t taken steps to protect your dog in your car, please do it now! Any time your dog goes on the road with you, he should be wearing ID with current contact information, and should be either seat-belted into the car (with a proper harness) or in a crate that is properly fastened.

 

 

 

 

 

Why Are The Effects Of Snake Venom So Varied?

Snake venom consists of proteins, enzymes, substances with a cytotoxic (poisonous to living cells) effect, neurotoxins (which damage nerve cells), and anti-coagulants. Four distinct types of venom act on the body differently. – Proteolytic venoms disrupt tissue integrity. – Hemotoxic venoms affect cardiac tissue, blood vessels, and blood cells. – Neurotoxic venoms damage the central and peripheral nervous systems, leading to muscle weakness and paralysis. – Cytotoxic venoms damage cells at the bite site. Each snake has different amounts of different toxins in its venom. For example, the Mojave rattlesnake’s venom consists primarily of a neurotoxin, while the western diamondback’s venom contains digestive enzymes and anti-coagulants to immobilize its prey. The following components are common in venomous snakes. – Phosphodiesterases cause cardiac pathology and hypotension (loss of blood pressure). – Phospholipase A2 causes hemolysis (destruction of red blood cells) and thrombocytopenia (loss of blood platelets that help the blood clot). – Cholinesterase inhibitors make prey animals lose muscle control. – Hyaluronidase increases tissue permeability and enhances the rate of venom absorption. – Amino acid oxidases and proteases predigest prey.

Related Articles

How to Prevent or Treat Bites from Poisonous Snakes Snake Avoidance Training for Dogs Are You Sure It Was A Rattlesnake? Appreciating Rattlesnakes A Snake-Bite Survival Story