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Are Canines Cognitive?

By
Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA
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COGNITIVE LEARNING FOR DOGS: OVERVIEW

1. Get cognitive with your dog. Check out the possibilities and play with the ones that appeal to you.

2. Find a dog training professional in your area who offers classes or instruction in canine cognition learning.

3. Give your dog opportunities to make choices and observe his selections; you might learn something about him that you never knew!

There was a time, centuries ago, when scientists and philosophers told us that animals don’t feel pain. Of course, we know now how wrong and cruel that was, and I doubt there’s a Whole Dog Journal reader out there who would try to argue that dogs don’t feel pain.

Then we were told that humans are the only species that make and use tools. Oops, wrong again. A quick online search on “Animals, Tools” finds multiple intriguing articles and videos about a multitude of various animals that make and use tools, including insects, birds, mammals, and more.

smiling dog
In the mid 17th century, French philosopher René Descartes posited, “Cogito ergo sum” – “I think, therefore I am.” This became a shortened summation of his proposition that there must be a thinking entity in order for there to be a thought. Who can doubt that dogs and other non-human animals think?

Next, we were warned that if we credited “human” emotions to non-human animals we were engaging in anthropomorphism, defined as “the attribution of human traits, emotions, and intentions to non-human entities.” It’s now pretty widely accepted that many other animals, including dogs, share much the same range of emotions that we do, and in fact that it’s pretty arrogant of us to claim them as “human” emotions. Think about it. Can your dog be happy? Sad? Frightened? Worried? Those are emotions.

In our apparently endless quest to prove our species superior to all others who walk this earth, even as those other dominoes fall, we have long clung stubbornly to the belief that dogs and other species were seriously deficient in the cognition arena. Defined as “perception, reasoning, understanding, intelligence, awareness, insight, comprehension, apprehension, discernment” (and more, depending on the source), cognition also includes the ability to grasp and apply concepts, and “theory of mind” – the ability to recognize and understand the thoughts of others.

Academic Discoveries in the Cognitive Ability of Dogs

Fifteen years ago, you wouldn’t have found the words “canine” and “cognition” in the same sentence. Today, following on the heels of a blossoming interest in animal cognition in the field of behavioral science, there are canine cognition researchers and laboratories springing up all over the world. Among the most notable: Adam Miklosi’s “Family Dog Project” at Eötvös Loránd University, in Budapest, Hungary; the Horowitz Dog Cognition Lab at Barnard College in New York City (with Julie Hecht and Alexandra Horowitz); the Clever Dog Lab at the University of Vienna, in Austria (Zsofia Viranyi and Friederike Range); and the Duke Canine Cognition Center at Duke University in Durham, North Carolina (Brian Hare).

You can find a more complete list of Canine Cognition research centers at Patricia McConnell’s blog on the subject. Suffice it to say, it’s happening all over the place.

So what does this mean for the regular dog owner? The knowledge gained and shared by canine cognition researchers can inspire your local forward-thinking dog training and behavior professionals to introduce new and interesting activities in their dog training programs.

You can also access a growing body of information that can lead you to fascinating things you can do with your own dog in the comfort of your own home. Brian Hare, PhD, who co-authored The Genius of Dogs with his wife, Vanessa Woods, created the citizen science Dognition program, which offers a cognition assessment tool for your dog and a new cognition game you can do with your dog each month. (See “The Dog’s Mind,” May 2013.) Our new and growing understanding of canine cognition can move the entire dog training profession toward a more enriched world that better meets the needs of our canine companions.

Early Cognition Fun

Here at Peaceable Paws (my training center in Fairplay, Maryland), we have been following the canine cognition revolution with great interest. One of the first glimmers of a practical application of our dogs’ cognitive abilities came with Claudia Fugazza’s “Do As I Do” protocol. Studying under Adam Miklosi in Hungary, Fugazza developed a protocol to teach dogs to imitate human behavior – something it was previously believed dogs weren’t capable of doing. We started offering “Copy That” workshops, and delighted in seeing dogs master the art of imitation.

The training world has also embraced the cognitive concept of choice for our canine pals. (See “Training A Dog to Make Choices,” November 2016.) To quote psychology professor Dr. Susan Friedman, “The power to control one’s own outcomes is essential to behavioral health.” Acknowledging that dogs often have very little choice in their lives, trainers have begun teaching a “You choose” cue, encouraging clients to find more ways of offering their dogs a choice. Learn how to play “You Choose” here.

A person holds two toys toward a dog, allowing the dog to choose which to play with
Assign consistent names to the things your dog plays with, and teach him those names. Then you can ask him to find or fetch specific toys.

Discrimination Games for Building Canine Cognition

Many cognition games involve the concept of “discrimination” (selecting one designated object from other similar ones) and “fast mapping” (quickly learning the names of new things and being able to correctly identify them). The famous Border Collie Chaser knows the names of hundreds of different objects and is able to correctly select the one her handler asks for. Even more impressive, if a new object is placed with several that she already knows, when asked for the new object she can correctly select that one and bring it back, using “process of elimination” (she knows all the others and correctly surmises the new word must apply to the unknown object).

Here are some discrimination games you and your dog can play. In each case, we are asking her to grasp a concept – object names, shapes, colors – and apply that understanding to make correct choices:

Object Discrimination

1. Select two objects that your dog likes – a stuffed toy, a ball, a stick. If she already knows the names of the objects, you’re ahead of the game!

2. Name one object, offer it in your hand, pause, and then cue her to touch it with her nose or paw – ie. “Ball, touch!” When she does, click and treat. Repeat several times.

3. Now do the same with your second object – “Teddy, touch!” Click and treat.

4. Now offer both objects at the same time. In order to help her succeed, offer one closer to her, and cue her to touch that one. Repeat multiple times, randomly alternating which one you offer closer to her and ask her to touch. Also switch sides, so the same object isn’t always in the same hand.

5. Gradually decrease the offset of the target object until you can offer them both to her at the same distance, and she will consistently touch the one you ask her to touch.

6. Now repeat the process with the objects on the floor, again starting with the target object closer to her to help her succeed, until she can touch either requested object consistently and correctly with both objects the same distance away.

7. Finally, name and add more objects to her repertoire. The sky’s the limit!

Shape Discrimination

For this one, you will need to find or make shapes that are similar in size and color, with the shape being the only difference. We use black shape silhouettes (squares, circles, and triangles) glued onto square white boards.

1. As with the object discrimination game, hold up one shape, name it, and ask your dog to touch it, i.e., “Square, touch!” Repeat several times.

2. Now do the same with your second shape – “Circle, touch!”

3. Now offer both shapes at the same time. In order to help her succeed, offer one closer to her, and cue her to touch that one. Repeat multiple times, randomly alternating which one you offer closer to her and ask her to touch. Also switch sides, so the same shape isn’t always in the same hand.

4. Now repeat the process with the shapes on the floor, propped up against a wall, again starting with the target shape closer to her to help her succeed, until she can touch either requested shape consistently and correctly with both objects the same distance away.

5. Finally, name and add more shapes to her repertoire.

Color Discrimination

This one can be a little tricky, since dogs are red-green color-blind, like some humans. Blue looks like blue to them, yellow looks like yellow, and black looks like black. Greens and oranges also look “yellow-ish,” while reds look brown or tan. When we teach colors we use colored paper plates and start with blue and yellow, since we know dogs can distinguish those. We then use red for our third color, since whatever it looks like to the dog, we know it is different from blue or yellow. The process is essentially the same as the previous two discrimination exercises.

1. Hold up one color, name it, and ask your dog to touch it, i.e., “Blue, touch!” Repeat several times.

2. Now do the same with your second color – “Yellow, touch!”

3. Now offer both colors at the same time. In order to help her succeed, offer one closer to her, and cue her to touch that one. Repeat multiple times, randomly alternating which one you offer closer to her and ask her to touch. Also switch sides, so the same color isn’t always in the same hand.

4. Repeat the process with the colors on the floor, again starting with the target color closer to her to help her succeed, until she can touch either requested color consistently and correctly with both the same distance away.

5. Finally, name and add red to her repertoire.

And what then? You can get creative and mix them up. See if she can learn to select the red balls from a pile of red and blue ones. Teach her the names of the rooms in your house and ask her to bring the yellow Frisbee to you from the bedroom. Teach her the names of family members and ask her to take the blue teddy to Dad in the living room.

Reading, Writing, ‘Rithmetic

No fooling – taking cognition one step farther, it really is possible to teach dogs to read, count and even write. We’ve touched on canine reading before (See “Teaching Your Dog to Read,” October 2006), but here’s a quick rundown of how to start:

1. Make two white signs that are identical in size and shape, with the word “SIT” in large black letters on one sign, and the word “DOWN” on the other.

2. With your dog standing in front of you, hold up the “SIT” sign, pause, and verbally cue your dog to sit. Repeat until you can hold up the sign and he sits without you having to say “Sit.” He now thinks holding up a white square with black squiggles on it is a cue for “Sit.”

3. Now hold up the “DOWN” sign in the exact same position you previously held up the “SIT” sign, and verbally cue your dog to down. Repeat until you can hold up the sign and he lies down without you having to say “Down.” He now thinks holding up a white square with black squiggles is the cue for “Down.”

4. Now vary which sign you hold up in the exact same position, pause and cue the appropriate behavior, until you see that your dog is beginning to offer the correct behavior in response to whichever sign you hold up. Your dog is reading – if recognizing that one set of squiggles means he should sit, and the other means he should lay down.

5. If you want to take it further, make additional cue cards for behaviors your dog knows, and use the same procedure to teach him new words.

What about writing and arithmetic? Ken Ramirez, former head curator at the Chicago Aquarium and current Executive Vice President and Chief Training Officer of Karen Pryor Clicker Training, has taught his dog to count to 14. It’s too complicated to explain here, but you can read Ramirez’s description of the amazing project here.

Emily Larlham of Dogmantics Dog Training in San Diego, California, demonstrated her dog’s ability to write words with a marker held in his mouth to a dumbfounded crowd of dog trainers at last year’s Pet Professional Guild Summit in Tampa, Florida. I kid you not. There is still so much more to learn about our dog’s cognitive abilities. The sky truly is the limit.

Over-the-Counter Flea Medicine for Dogs

By
Nancy Kerns
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dreamstime_s_40497867

Last month, in “Bravecto, Nexgard, or Other: Which Oral Flea Control Should You Use?” we described the five oral medications that veterinarians may prescribe to stop or prevent a dog’s flea infestation. This month, we’ll describe the four oral medications that kill fleas on dogs and are available to owners as over-the-counter (OTC) products – no prescription necessary.

As with last month’s installment in this mini-series on flea-control options, the descriptions of these products should not be taken as a recommendation or endorsement. (For more about this, see “Panacea or Poison?” in this issue.)

These products are already purchased by dog owners by the millions. Our intent in describing them by chemical class is to inform owners how they work, and what dogs they are indicated for and, more importantly, contraindicated for. Contraindications are conditions under which something should never be used; in our experience, owners and veterinarians alike are often completely unaware that these ubiquitous medications shouldn’t be given to certain dogs.

This way, if your veterinarian recommends their use, or you somehow run across them, you’ll know what they are and whether or not they’re right for your dog. As you can see from the comments already generated below, these products incite real passion–for and, especially, against. Our purpose is to keep you informed so you can form better judgments…so please don’t assume Whole Dog Journal recommends these products just because we’re running this piece. We simply want to serve readers by telling you what’s out there.

A caveat: The dosages of the products discussed here cover a wide range of weights. A dog at the low end of the weight range indicated for either dose might receive five times as much medication as needed. If your dog is at the low end of the weight range, consider doing the math and splitting the chew or tablet to give your dog an effective dose that’s more appropriate for her size.

For example, the minimum dose of Capstar is 0.45 mg per pound of the dog’s body weight. A dog who weighs six pounds would need only 2.7 mg of nitenpyram. The smallest tablet of Capstar delivers 11.4 mg of nitenpyram. You could give the dog a quarter of a tablet (2.8 mg) with equal benefit and less risk.

Note: Last month, we said that we would discuss both OTC oral flea-killing medications, as well as prescription medications that help control fleas through the use of insect-growth regulators, in this article. Instead, we’ve broken these two topics into their own separate pieces. We will discuss the products containing insect-growth regulators in another issue.

Over-the-Counter Oral Flea-Killing Medications

NAME KILLS CHEMICAL CLASS ACTIVE INGRED. FREQ. MFR. STATEMENT FDA APPROVED MIN. AGE/ WEIGHT
CAPSTAR
Elanco
(888) 545-5973		 Fleas Neonicotinoid Nitenpyram Daily >98% of fleas within 6 hours, starts killing fleas within 15 minutes 2000 4 weeks; 2 lbs.
CAPGUARD
Sentry (Perrigo)
(800) 224-7387		 Fleas Neonicotinoid Nitenpyram Daily >90% fleas within 4 hours, starts working within 30 minutes 2014 4 weeks; 2 lbs.
FASTCAPS
PetArmor (Perrigo)
(800) 224-7387		 Fleas Neonicotinoid Nitenpyram Daily “Kills fleas fast” 2014 4 weeks; 2 lbs.
ADVANTUS
Bayer
(800) 422-9874		 Fleas Neonicotinoid Imidacloprid Daily >96% of adult fleas within 4 hours, starts killing fleas within 1 hour 2015 10 weeks; 4 lbs.

Neonicotinoids

The oral flea-killing products that have been approved for OTC sale in the United States are in a class of chemicals called neonicotinoids.

Insects and mammals alike have nicotinic acetylcholine receptors (nAChRs) in the cells in their central nervous systems (mammals also contain these receptors in their peripheral nervous systems). Neonicotinoids bind to these receptors, overstimulating them to the point that they cause paralysis and death. The chemicals bind more strongly to insect neuron receptors than mammal neuron receptors, making them more toxic to insects than mammals. Neonicotinoids are widely used in agriculture to control insects.

Three of the four OTC oral flea-killing products on the market contain nitenpyram, a neonicotinoid chemical that gets rapidly absorbed into the dog’s bloodstream from his gastrointestinal tract, and clears rapidly, too. On average, the peak blood concentration is reached in one hour (range: 15 to 90 minutes) after administration, and the elimination half-life is about three hours. These products work fast, but only for about 24 hours; more than 90 percent of the nitenpyram is eliminated in the urine within one day in dogs.

Because they are so fast-acting and have such a short span of activity in the dog’s body, these medications are commonly used when a dog who is heavily flea-infested needs to be cleared of fleas fast – perhaps so he could be transported or kenneled without fear of introducing fleas into a previously flea-free environment. These products are also a good choice to eliminate fleas quickly, without leaving a pesticide on or in the dog’s body for weeks to come.

The fourth product contains imidacloprid, one of the most heavily used agricultural insecticides in the world. Imidacloprid has been used in the “spot on” topical flea-killing product Advantage since 1996. Imidacloprid is considered to be “low” in toxicity via dermal (skin) exposure, but moderately toxic when ingested, which makes its introduction in an oral product counter-intuitive. It, too, has a short half-life (2.2 hours) and reaches its peak blood concentration quickly – 1.3 hours.

1. Capstar, Capguard, and FastCaps

The active ingredient in all three of these products is nitenpyram; it’s included in each of the products in the same amount, so we will discuss all three together.

Because it’s so fast-acting, shelters and rescue groups have long used Capstar when they received an animal who was so heavily infested with fleas that handling, kenneling, or transporting the animal puts other animals at risk of infestation.

Each of the drugs comes in the form of a tablet, and each is offered in two dosage sizes: a tablet containing 11.4 mg of nitenpyram, meant for dogs weighing from two to 25 pounds, and a tablet containing 57 mg of nitenpyram, meant for dogs weighing from 25.1 to 125 pounds. The minimum dose is 1.0 mg/kg (0.45 mg/lb) of the dog’s body weight.

Adverse reactions that may occur in dogs include lethargy/depression, vomiting, itching, decreased appetite, diarrhea, hyperactivity, incoordination, trembling, seizures, panting, allergic reactions, including hives, vocalization, salivation, fever, and nervousness.

The frequency of serious signs, including neurologic signs and death, was greater in animals under two pounds of body weight, less than eight weeks of age, and/or reported to be in poor body condition. In some instances, birth defects and fetal/neonatal loss were reported after treatment of pregnant and/or lactating animals.

These products are said to be safe when used concurrently with other products, including heartworm preventatives, corticosteroids, antibiotics, vaccines, deworming medications, and other flea products.

2. advantus

Bayer Healthcare spells the name of this product with a small a. The product represents a very new application of imidacloprid – to our knowledge, the first oral use of imidacloprid as an insecticide for animals. The FDA granted Bayer a three-year period of marketing exclusivity from the date of its approval (in 2015).

Advantus does not contain any animal proteins, making it suitable for dogs with animal-protein food allergies.

The drug is delivered in the form of a soft chew. Bayer suggests that the ideal or target dose of imidacloprid is 0.34 mg/lb (0.75 mg/kg). Advantus is offered in two dosage sizes: a chew containing 7.5 mg of imidacloprid, meant for dogs weighing from four to 22 pounds, and a chew containing 37.5 mg of imidacloprid, meant for dogs weighing from 23 to 110 pounds.

Adverse reactions to advantus that may occur in dogs include vomiting, decreased appetite, decreased energy, soft stools, and difficulty walking.

Advantus is said to be safe when used concurrently with other products, including heartworm preventatives, corticosteroids, antibiotics, vaccines, and deworming medications.

A relatively small number of dogs and puppies are used in pre-approval studies to determine a product’s safety. For this reason, we’ve never encouraged dog owners to rush to try newly approved products; dogs owned by early adopters, in essence, become the next generation of test dogs. For this reason, and because this is the first drug to use imidacloprid in this way, we’d recommend holding off on buying or using this product until more is known about its safety.

Nancy Kerns is the editor of WDJ.

Panacea or Poison?

By
Nancy Kerns
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From the first issue, one of WDJ’s missions has been to bring you “in-depth information about effective holistic healthcare methods.” However, the word “holistic” is subjective, and it’s frequently used to mean very different things.

Whole Dog Journal editor Nancy Kerns

Many people use the phrase “holistic healthcare” when they, in fact, mean natural, alternative, or complementary healthcare. However, we use the phrase in its original sense – to mean “relating to or concerned with wholes or with complete systems.” We look for therapies and practitioners that offer the most benefit and do the least harm, whether it’s a conventional prescription medication or an organic essential oil, a veterinarian who specializes in oncology or one with advanced training in chiropractic. We don’t eschew vaccines – but we do advise using the least number needed to protect your dog. We don’t promote the use of unproven alternatives to heartworm preventatives – but we do offer explicit advice on how to minimize their use without leaving dogs vulnerable to heartworm infection.

And, to use a recent example, we don’t tell owners to refrain from ever using toxins on their dogs, but we do give them information about how to use toxins, such as the minimal use of topical pesticides and oral flea-killing medications, when less-toxic flea control has failed and the dog is suffering – and when the substance is not contraindicated.

Judging from the number of critical comments regarding September 2017’s article on prescription flea-killing medications, you might think we told our readers that the medications were terrific and should be given to every dog, every month, for life – no worries! Um, no. We think those medications should be reserved for last-resort use. But we’re also aware of cases where they can literally save lives – for example, with dogs who are severely allergic to fleas and who live in areas where fleas are a year-round pestilence. And if an owner is considering their use, she should know, as just one example, which products are likely to aggravate her dog’s epilepsy, and which products don’t pose that risk.

There are publications that denounce the use of most conventional veterinary medical practices and therapies, vaccines, heartworm preventatives, and pesticides included. There are others that impugn every sort of medicine that’s not conventional; they take an equally dim view of acupuncture, chiropractic, traditional herbal medicine, massage, and more. Please don’t confuse us with any of them. We’re committed to giving you solid information about all of the most beneficial options available to you.

Great Solutions for Dog Crate Problems

By
Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA
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DOG CRATING ISSUES: WHAT YOU’LL LEARN

1. To evaluate your crating protocols and make any necessary changes (bedding? location? type of crate?) to ensure you are following best crating practices.

2. To help your dog learn to love his crate in case a time comes when he must be confined, for an extended stay at the vet, for example, or (dog forbid) an evacuation.

dog in crate

I first used a crate as a canine management tool in the early 1980s. I was a little skeptical of the concept (“Put my dog in a box? What?”), but within two days was completely convinced that this newly touted training tool had merit for both housetraining puppies and as a “safe space” for older dogs.

Decades have passed since then, and I continue to believe that crates are a valuable tool for successful dog keeping. However, I have also seen some crate abuses over the years that prompt me to add some important caveats to my usual encouragement of their use.

Excessive Crate Confinement

Overuse is probably the most common abuse of crates. I cringe when I hear of dogs who are routinely left crated 10 or more hours a day while their humans are away at work. And what if you get stuck in a major traffic back-up, or your boss decides to call a last-minute mandatory staff meeting?

I can’t think of a better way to wreck your dog’s housetraining than to crate him for excessive periods with no option but to soil his own den – not to mention the potential for creating severe anxiety by forcing him to eliminate in his bed against all his training and instincts. While your dog may be physically capable of going for 10-plus hours without soiling his crate, he shouldn’t have to. There is some evidence that over-crating may lead to kidney damage for dogs who routinely try to “hold it” longer than they should.

Some of us (me included) sometimes crate one of their dogs to prevent intra-family aggression. Using a baby gate to separate the dogs, instead, can keep peace in the family and reduce unnecessary confinement.

Solutions: Examine your crating practices. Do you have options other than crating? If your dog can’t have house freedom, will a baby gate or closed door serve the same management function while giving your dog more room to move and a choice to use his crate – or not? (He still shouldn’t be shut in his room for 10-plus hours a day! If he has to be regularly left home alone for long periods, find a reliable force-free dog walker to give him a daily break.)

If you’re not sure your dog can be trusted uncrated, start a testing protocol, gradually leaving him uncrated for increasing periods.

Improperly Introducing Your Dog to the Crate

Nothing is guaranteed to make your dog dislike his crate faster than being forced into it. If your dog shows resistance to crating, stop! Rather than shoving, try tossing high-value treats inside. If he still doesn’t go in voluntarily, find an alternative until you can take the time to teach him.

Solutions: Good breeders teach their pups to love crates, and an increasing number of shelters and rescue groups are making the effort to do the same with the dogs in their care. If not, and you’re bringing him home for the first time, try a harness and a seat belt or tether to safely restrain him for the trip. Or bring along a friend or family member who can hold him.

Once home, use counter-conditioning to convince your new canine companion that being near a crate makes wonderful things happen, and use shaping to operantly condition him to happily and willingly enter his new bedroom.

Crating a Dog as Punishment

Yikes! If forcing to crate is the best way to make your dog hate his crate, using the crate as punishment may be the next-best way. A cheerful time-out is okay – just to remove him from a difficult situation, but never an angry “Bad dog! Get in your crate!” Similarly, never punish him in his crate by banging on it or shaking it. And never, ever reach into his crate to drag him out and punish him. I don’t reach into my dogs’ crates for any reason; crates are their safe space and I respect that.

Solutions:The easy solution here is – just don’t. If you must crate your dog to give him (or you!) a cooling-off period, do it cheerfully, and give him something nice in the crate – yummy treats, a chewy, or a stuffed toy.

dog resting in crate

Unprotected Crating

You can accidentally give your dog a negative experience and association with the crate by crating him in a place where he is not protected from the unwanted attentions or proximity of others. If your dog isn’t fond of children and you crate him where children can harass him, he will feel trapped and stressed, and you are likely to make his association with children (as well as with his crate) infinitely more negative.

There can be a similar outcome if he has a tense relationship with another dog in your household and you crate him while the other dog is allowed to be free: Trapped and stressed, his relationship with that dog will likely worsen. If he’s crated in your vehicle and you have to swerve or stop suddenly, the crate bouncing around the back of your SUV is likely to convince him he’d rather not be crated.

Solutions: Always crate your dog in a location where he is protected from unwanted attentions from humans or other dogs. An exercise pen placed around the crate as an “airlock” may be adequate, or he may be better off crated in a separate room with a baby gate across or the door closed. Crates in a vehicle should always be secured so they can’t roll around if there is a sudden stop or worse, a collision.

Crating Tips

With all that said, you might think my ardor for crates has cooled. Far from it; I still think they are a fantastic dog management tool, when used properly. Here are some additional tips to help your dog get the most benefit from his crating experience:

1. If your dog has had past unpleasant experiences with crating, consider changes. If you were using an airline-style crate, try a wire crate. If he was crated in the living room, try the den. If he gets aroused by outside stimuli, move the crate away from the front door, to an isolated, quiet location in the house.

2. Make sure your dog’s crate is placed in an environmentally comfortable location. You may not realize that the sun hits the crate at some point in the day, causing your dog to overheat, or a draft from a vent that makes him uncomfortably cold. Try putting crates in different locations and see if he shows a preference.

3. Respect your dog’s bedding preferences. He may love a cushy comforter to lie on while crated, or he may prefer the coolness of a bare crate floor. Figure out what he likes and accommodate his wishes. If possible, try offering two crates with different types of flooring or bedding and see if he chooses one over the other.

4. While you work to shape your dog to voluntarily crate, try putting something wonderfully irresistible inside the crate (near the door at first) and closing the door, so he gets a little frustrated about trying to reach it. Then open the door so he can reach in and grab it. As he gets bolder about grabbing the item, gradually move it farther back so he has to go deeper in the crate to get it.

5. Consider giving your dog more spacious accommodations. When housetraining, we want the crate to be just large enough to stand up, turn around and lie down comfortably, so he can’t soil one end and rest comfortably in the other. After he is well housetrained, there is no need to keep him a small space – he can have a bigger crate if he likes.

So Why Even Crate?

Why bother to crate at all, especially once your dog is housetrained and past the puppy chewing stage? There are times when it can be very useful to be able to crate your dog. It is certainly safest to transport your dog in a vehicle if he is properly crated. Also, there comes a time in the lives of many dogs when they need to be on “restricted activity,” whether following surgery, or perhaps for a torn ACL, broken limb, or some other medical mishap.

A dog who is calm, relaxed, and even happy about being crated will endure these trying times far more easily than one who is stressed about his enforced confinement. Be a responsible crate practitioner, and your dog will be much happier for it.

Author Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA, is WDJ’s Training Editor. Miller is also the author of many books on positive training. Her newest is, Beware of the Dog: Positive Solutions for Aggressive Behavior in Dogs.

Soft-Sided Dog Crates: Best and Worst

By
Stephanie Colman
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3

Crate training offers a variety of benefits. The crate is a useful training tool to help teach housetraining skills, manage over-arousal, and protect against unwanted destruction when owners are unable to supervise an untrained dog of any age. A crate-trained dog always has a familiar retreat to call his own, whether at home, when travelling, or while waiting his turn at a weekly training class or performance event.

Not that long ago, crates were typically limited to bulky plastic or wire enclosures that were cumbersome to move from place to place. Today, dog owners have many choices when it comes to portable containment options, including a growing market of lightweight, foldable “soft crates” that are easy to transport from place to place.

Skip to the dog crate review chart.

dog in crate
Soft-sided, portable creates are terrific temporary confinement tools for dogs who are reliably create-trained. The vast majority of people who travel to canine sports competitions use these lightweight, air crates to house their dogs between classes.

Is a Soft Crate Right for Your Dog?

As a trainer, I feel strongly that soft crates are meant to be used only by dogs who are already reliably crated trained. Confining a puppy or non-crate-trained adult dog using a soft crate is, in my opinion, just asking for trouble. No matter how the soft crate is constructed, canvas and mesh just aren’t designed to withstand the expected clawing and biting that often accompanies a puppy or young dog’s attempts to exit a crate without direct invitation. Until I have solid knowledge of my dog’s ability to crate calmly, I use a sturdy plastic kennel at home, or an exercise pen or collapsible wire crate for travel.

Some well-crate-trained dogs have even been known to free themselves from a soft crate in a moment of circumstantial excitement or frustration. My very first soft crate has a memorable Whippet-head-shaped hole in the mesh door from when its then inhabitant, Zoie, decided she’d had enough of sitting in the crate while I ran her housemate in a dock jumping competition. My current Golden, Saber, once left his mark of disapproval on the zipper seam of another soft crate when he decided it wasn’t right to be left behind when I had to go lead a group training adventure. He likely heard the group outside – comprised of many of his favorite people – and the damaging scratching ensued. I considered both dogs to be reliably crate trained, and both dogs had crated successfully, in soft crates, in similar situations, prior to their escape attempts. But sometimes mistakes happen.

One of our two top-rated creates: Elite Field’s Three-Door Folding Soft Crate sets up and breaks down easily and is loaded with features.

In some cases, mesh damage can be repaired using a screen-mending kit or with some creative sewing. Several manufacturers also sell replacement covers – however, replacement covers often cost almost as much as a new crate.

Like most any dog product, it’s important to know your dog. In the wrong hands (er, paws!), a soft crate can be an expensive experiment. But if your dog is truly ready for the experience, soft crates are perfect when you want something easily portable.

Advantages of a Portable Dog Kennel

Virtually any soft crate is going to come out on top in terms of portability when compared to a traditional plastic crate, collapsible wire crate, or exercise pen. Visit any competitive dog event or training class and you’ll find a sea of soft crates in all shapes, sizes, and styles. By design, soft crates weigh considerably less than plastic or wire crates of a similar size. Generally speaking, they also tend to fold flatter than collapsible wire crates. Each of these factors combine to make them a great choice for dog owners who need to frequently set up and break down their crate.

A soft crate also works well for home-based situational crating. The small footprint when folded makes it easy to tuck the crate away in a closet or under the bed if you only use it occasionally, such as when certain visitors stop by, when restricting a dog’s activity as she recovers from an injury, or when traveling.

While a soft crate is highly portable, we recommend against their use as travel crates in the car. Most any crate or pet seatbelt system helps protect against a dog interfering with, and dangerously distracting, the driver, making it a better choice than riding loose. However, the amount of force generated during even a minor collision could potentially catapult a dog through the mesh panels of most (if not all) soft crates.

Soft Crates: Most Important Features

When I’m shopping for a soft crate, I look for supreme ease of use, both in terms of how quickly I can set up and break down the crate, and how easy it is to carry to my designated crating area at weekly dog classes and events. I also want my dog to fit comfortably in a crate recommended for his size.

I almost always use the soft crate at outdoor events, so good ventilation is important. I want a product that is sturdy enough to support a few assorted training items on top, so I can use it as a temporary table while I train. And, because I know “dogs can be dogs,” and even the best crate-trained dog will occasionally manage to damage the crate beyond repair, I don’t want to spend a lot of money on a soft crate.

How We Reviewed the Dog Crates

We chose a total of eight crates for review. Some were selected based on recommendations by fellow dog enthusiasts; some because they are made by manufacturers of well-known wire crates and exercise pens, and some based simply on Google search results and/or an inexpensive price tag.

After carefully analyzing the pros and cons of each crate, we saw a lot of really wonderful features, but, sadly, not one single crate managed to offer all of our favorite features in one product. (Hey, manufacturers, call me!) Still, it was pretty easy to come up with a couple of overall favorites, a least favorite, and some honest feedback about the pros and cons of the remaining crates, which we hope aids in readers’ decision making.

2017 Soft-Sided Crate Reviews

Our 4-PAW Favorite Soft Crates

We found just two crates that met our criteria for a four-paw rating (the highest rating we confer on any products).

Elite Field’s Three-Door Folding Soft Crate

Elite Field’s Three-Door Folding Soft Crate (pictured above) was the standout leader in terms of available features and overall value. We reviewed the 36-inch version, which measures 36 inches long by 24 inches wide by 28 inches tall. Most notable was the additional headroom, making it more likely the crate’s inhabitant can sit comfortably while maintaining a natural head position.

This crate packs a punch with its features. The crate quickly takes shape after unfolding by easily connecting both ends of the lightweight internal steel-tube frame, accessible via a zippered, mesh “sunroof” panel on the top of the crate. Set-up and break down can be done in seconds. After releasing the frame, the crate quickly folds into itself and is held in the folded position with two quick-release buckles.

The crate cover, made of thick canvas and sturdy mesh, can be removed and washed, if needed. The Elite Field soft crate features rounded, reinforced corners and feels sturdy when set up. The 36-inch crate weighs 14 pounds.

We appreciate how this crate has front and side entry doors, along with one full-length mesh window on the opposite long side, and a partial mesh window on the short side. The zippered side entry is helpful when you need to position the crate sideways, which then restricts access to the front door. (I sometimes run into this issue in hotels.)

The sheer amount of mesh means this crate is well ventilated, making it a wise choice for use in warmer climates. While not shown on the manufacturer’s website, the crate is also available, in specific colors, with “curtains” that can be rolled down to cover the mesh door and windows. This is a nice feature for times when obstructing a dog’s view helps reduce over-arousal and related vocalization.

Elite Field has thrown in several value-added features, such as storage pockets on both the top and short end of the crate, and the crate comes with a free mat and carrying case. I’m personally not a fan of encasing my crate in its own bag when not in use, so I was pleased to see the crate itself has multiple built-in handles, making it easy to transport even when out of its case. If anything, Elite Field almost went overboard with carrying options. Not only is there a handle for carrying the crate when folded, every size crate also comes with a cross-tied handle on the top of the crate. I could see using this option if carrying the small-size crate while occupied by a small dog, but definitely not while housing a dog in one of the larger size crates.

Our one notable disappointment with this crate is the inability to secure the zippers in the closed position. As someone who has spent countless weekends at dog events, I know how quickly clever dogs can figure out how to open a zippered door by positioning a toenail “just right” on the frame of the zipper pull. Many soft crates come with a small clip just above the zippered door. The clip can be used to “lock” the zipper, thus thwarting a clever dog’s attempt to open the zipper with his claw.

Firstrax Noz2Noz Sof-Krate
The cover of Firstrax’s Noz2Noz Soft-Krate can be removed for washing, replacement covers are also available.

Firsttrax Noz2Noz Sof-Krate

A close second to the Elite Field crate is the Firstrax Noz2Noz Sof-Krate. We tested the 42-inch crate, which measures 42 inches long by 28 inches wide by 32 inches tall. This crate is similar to the Elite Field crate, but without the bells and whistles of storage pockets, a crate mat, or a carrying case.

Like the Elite Field crate, set-up involves pulling both ends of the internal frame into position, where they fit together and are secured by a closure sleeve. Set up can be done in seconds. The crate cover, made of thick canvas and sturdy mesh, can be removed and washed. Replacement covers are available from the manufacturer. The Noz2Noz Sof-Krate soft crate has reinforced, rounded corners and feels sturdy when set up. The 42-inch crate weighs 19 pounds.

This crate also features front and side-entry, mostly mesh doors and a canvas “sunroof.” We were pleased to find “zipper lock” clips on both the front and side access doors. The remaining long- and short-sides of the crate have mesh windows, allowing for maximum air-flow. The Noz 2 Noz crate folds down similar to the Elite Field crate. The folded crate can by carried by a single handle.

3-PAW Crates

Only one product was close enough to our higher-rated crates to earn our three-paw rating.

A solid, no-frills, functional choice:

Firstrax Petnation Port-a-Crate E-Series

Petnation Port-a-Crate
We down-rated the Petnation Port-a-Crate, made by Firstrax, because of the reduced ventilation provided by the bone-shaped windows.

Firstrax also manufactures the Petnation Port-a-Crate E-Series. The lightweight, internal frame works similar to that of the Elite Field and Noz2Noz crate, and the Petnation Port-a-Crate can be set up or taken down in seconds. Of the three similarly designed crates, the Port-a-Crate appeared to fold down the flattest. Its overall shape is slightly different; the top of the crate tapers inward, but not so much as to significantly limit the dog’s usable headroom.

We tested the 36-inch crate, which measures 36 inches long by 25 inches wide by 25 inches tall, making it one of the shorter crates (at that length) in our review. Unlike the 36-inch Elite Field crate, my Golden Retriever, who measures about 21 inches at the shoulders, cannot sit with a natural head position in this crate. This doesn’t bother me, as I prefer my dogs to lie down and rest when in their away-from-home crates, but it’s worth noting, especially if your dog is on the taller side. The 36-inch Port-a-Crate weighs 14.5 pounds.

Aside from the shorter height, the only other potential issue we saw with the Port-a-Crate is the window design. Unlike the Elite Field and Noz2Noz crates, which feature large mesh windows, allowing for significant ventilation, the Port-a-Crate is limited to a mesh front-entry door (with an available zipper lock) and small, bone-shaped windows on the remaining sides. This potentially limits airflow within the crate, an important consideration if used outdoors in hot or humid climates.

On the other hand, less mesh overall might also mean fewer areas for the dog to damage with his claws. Of the three similarly designed crates, we found the Port-a-Crate, available in six sizes, ranging in price from $32-$57, to be least expensive. At this price point, we recommend the Port-a-Crate as a nice “starter” soft crate if you aren’t sure your dog is ready to be contained by mere mesh and canvas.

2-PAW Products

The next three crates on our list failed to impress us overall, yet still have some notable features making them worth mentioning, as your priorities might differ from ours.

Go Pet Club Soft Pet Crate

If your your dog needs a little more room to relax, you appreciate a super-lightweight product, and know you can trust your dog in a soft crate, the Go Pet Club Soft Pet Crate might be worth a look.

Unlike our three favorite crates, which feature interior metal frames and a canvas/mesh cover, the Go Pet Club Soft Crate is made from heavy-duty, PVC-backed polyester. The entire crate literally zips together and holds its shape thanks to zippers and flexible spine strips encased in the crates rounded top. It’s not difficult to set up or break down, but it does take longer than any of our top picks.

The Go Pet Club Soft Pet Crate comes in a surprising assortment of sizes, ranging from 17.5 inches to a considerable 48 inches in length. In looking for a mid-size crate of this model, we had a choice of 32 inches or 38 inches. The 38-inch crate is exceptionally roomy, with a width of 28 inches and measuring a full 34 inches at the highest point of the rounded top.

The lack of an internal metal frame means this crate weighs just 12 pounds and folds down to about two inches thick and stores in an included case. However, the lack of a solid internal frame makes the crate less sturdy overall, and the three mesh windows and mesh front entry door (which work together to provide nice ventilation) appear to be made of lighter-weight mesh than the other brands we reviewed.

This crate’s biggest “pro” is its generous dimensions. If your goal is to secure the most internal real estate for the price, the Go Pet Club Soft Pet Crate could be a good option.

If you miss your old Cabana Crate:

Go Pet Club’s Soft Pet Crate locks a metal frame, making it a lighter, but also less sturdy, than some of the other crates we examined.

Precision Pet’s Soft Side Pet Crate

A decade ago, WDJ’s top pick in soft-sided crates was a product called the Cabana Crate. For reasons that escape us, the product was discontinued long ago. The Precision Pet (recently purchased by PetMate) Soft Side Pet Crate resembles the Cabana Crate of yore, with some differences. It’s an attractive crate with a nice assortment of features, such as front and side-entry doors, storage pockets, non-skid feet, a water bottle opening and holder (for a ball-tip style water bottle), and a crate mat and carrying case. The canvas and mesh are of a nice quality, and the design appears to allow for desirable airflow.

Like many of the other crates we tested, this crate takes shape via a lightweight metal frame. However, of all the similarly designed crates we explored, the Soft Side Pet Crate took the longest to set up. Assembly reminded me of the discontinued Cabana Crate: first remove the crate’s cross bars from their self-fastening ties and swing them into position along the front and back (short sides) of the crate. Next, align the twist handles with the corner holes and turn the handles until fully engaged and secure.

This process is not at all difficult, but it does take longer, and it’s easy to become spoiled by the even-faster set up of the other crates we tested. Who wants a bulky old CRT TV version of a soft crate when the sleek flatscreen TV variety of crates are out there?

We also found it odd that the side entry door, when unzipped, flips out, not up, creating what looks a bit like an attached doormat rather than being kept out of the way by resting atop the crate.

In short, there’s nothing wrong with this crate, but the additional steps required for set-up and break down kept this option off of our “favorites” list.

A neat idea, but use it wisely:

Sport Pet’s Pop Crate

Slightly reduced ventilation, and this down-zipped side opening, resulted in a two-paw rating for Precision Pet’s Soft Side Pet Crate.

Pop goes the soft crate! If small and lightweight are your top priorities, and you have a medium-size, exceptionally well crate-trained dog who needs crating for just short periods of time, consider the Pop Crate by SportPet Designs.

Unlike every other crate we tested, the Pop Crate has no internal frame of any kind. The crate consists of two plastic ends – one with a spring-loaded metal door similar to a traditional plastic crate, and one with a full panel of air vents – connected by a rectangle of thin polyester fabric and mesh. To be sure, it wouldn’t take much effort at all for a dog to claw or chew his way through the fabric if he were so inclined. I’m not even positive the crate wouldn’t tip over if a large dog were to rest his weight against the side.

This crate’s claim to fame is its unique twisting design. Unclip the quick-release buckles and the crate springs into shape. To close the crate, stand it on end and twist the front frame 180 degrees, which compacts the crate back onto itself much like a pop-open car window shade.

There’s nothing else on the market like the Pop Crate: a soft-sided crate with a solid door.

The Pop Crate comes in two sizes, neither of which is very big, making this, in our opinion, a poor choice for dogs much larger than a Shetland Sheepdog. Also, while we like the use of the plastic frame and metal door (adding durability to a commonly chewed and clawed area), the location of the door hinge makes the already tiny opening even smaller. My dog startled himself more than once by hitting the door or doorframe on his way in and out of the crate. It’s also so lightweight (the large only weighs 6.35 pounds), it easily slid around on my hard floor with each entry and exit, again, startling my dog.

The large Pop Crate measures 36 inches long by 20.75 inches wide by 22 inches tall. The small Pop Crate is significantly smaller, measuring 22.5 inches long by 14.25 inches wide by 14.5 inches tall. Both collapse to 4 inches high, making it reasonable to pack in a suitcase for travel.

Elite Field’s Two-Door Soft X-Pen

In selecting products to review, we expanded our definition of “soft crate” to include what is best described as a fully enclosed, soft exercise pen. Like a traditional exercise pen, Elite Field‘s Two-Door Soft X-Pen consists of eight connected panels, only in this case, the panels are constructed of canvas and mesh. These create an octagonal enclosure with a diameter of 36-62 inches and a height of 24-36 inches.

We tested the 48-inch pen, which provided plenty of room for two adult Golden Retrievers. The pen has two zippered doors, two storage pockets, a water bottle opening and holder, and a removable (zippered) washable floor mat and mesh top. It’s lightweight and comes with a carrying case. Having recently refinished my hardwood floors, I loved the idea of a soft pen.

Elite Field’s Two Door Soft X-Pen is not shaped like the other “crates” we reviewed, but it functions similarly.

Elite Field’s Two-Door Soft X-Pen seemed like a strong contender as a top pick until it was time to fold it up. It does not come with detailed instructions, nor is it super intuitive. Even after we determined the need to remove the top and bottom of the pen before folding (a disappointment in itself), it took several attempts to discover the correct order in which to fold the panels onto themselves.

When we contacted the manufacturer for input as to the best way to fold the pen, we were told see the set-up instructions (which basically say, “unfold the play pen and expand the play pen”) and then to “please just reverse the set up process.” Gee, why didn’t we think of that? #Sarcasm.

This pen has a lot of potential. If Elite Field would number the panels and add simple instructions for folding it up, this pen could rise to the top of our list. We love the concept, but don’t recommend this product if you plan to set it up and take it down often, or if you have low frustration tolerance!

1-PAW Dog Crates (Lowest Rated)

The following crate might offer some utility for some dog owners, but didn’t, in our opinion, possess enough positive features to outweigh the factors we considered to be drawbacks.

Midwest Pet Product’s Canine Camper

Midwest Pet Products is a key player in the wire crate and exercise pen market. Unfortunately, it brought a wire crate mindset to the soft crate market, with (in our view) a poor result.

Canine Camper is essentially a sparse wire crate encased in canvas.

The Canine Camper is essentially a sparse wire crate encased in canvas. On the outside, it looks similar to any of the soft crates held together by lightweight metal frames. Underneath the attractive canvas cover is a wire frame, which requires a somewhat counterintuitive, two-step process to secure.

To add to the challenge, unlike similar soft crates where assembly is easily accessed via a zippered “sunroof” on top of the crate, no such sunroof exists on the Canine Camper; we had to reach in through the crate’s front door – awkward!

The extensive wire frame also adds to its weight. We tested the 36-inch model, which weighs 17 pounds – a good bit heavier than the 14.5-pound Port-a-Crate and 14-pound Elite Field crate of the same length.

We did find the Canine Camper to have the sturdiest mesh window and door panels. Rather than a fabric-type mesh, it features thicker, rubberized window and door panels that feel like they might better withstand clawing.

Stephanie Colman is a writer and dog trainer in Southern California.

Download the Full October 2017 Issue PDF

By
Nancy Kerns
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From the first issue, one of WDJ's missions has been to bring you "in-depth information about effective holistic healthcare methods." However, the word "holistic" is subjective, and it's frequently used to mean very different things.
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Whole Dog Journal Is Now On Instagram

By
Nancy Kerns
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0

It started as a joke: I take so many cell-phone pictures of Woody sleeping in ridiculous positions that my cloud back-up folders online are packed full of these photos, so I started telling people I was going to launch an Instagram account consisting of just Woody-sleeping pics.

But a growing affection for the platform led me to start posting a few pictures, and, as it turns out, there are folks out there who would rather follow WDJ and its dogs on Instagram than on WDJ’s website or Facebook. So, consider this an announcement: If you want a lot more photos of dogs, far fewer words about them, and a lot of cute photos of Woody sleeping upside down and Otto looking as noble as usual, please follow us at https://www.instagram.com/dogsofwholedogjournal.

Record Harvey Flooding in Texas Spells Disaster for Dogs and Cats

By
Nancy Kerns
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0

Since making landfall Friday night in Texas, Hurricane Harvey has caused widespread destruction and record flooding in large parts of the state. Over 50 inches of rain have fallen in some areas.

With the severe flooding, and people struggling to keep themselves and their families out of the water, dogs (and cats) are in dire straits. People are being evacuated as fast as possible, and many of them are not permitted or able to take their pets. News reports show animals on roofs and in trees, and few volunteers are available to help rescue, house, and care for them. Abandoned animals and permanently homeless animals alike are fending for themselves in the flooded city.

These animals need help, and they need it now. What’s needed the most are donations of dog and cat food, cages, crates, leashes, veterinary supplies – and money, so that all of these things can be purchased to help care for the animals until they can be reunited with their owners or new homes can be found for them.

So how can you help? If you live near affected areas, volunteer to foster. Shelters will be overflowing with dogs and cats, so you can help free up much needed space by opening your own home to one or more animals. Volunteer to walk, groom, socialize or otherwise care for animals at your local shelter. Donate food, blankets, leashes and other much needed items. Offer to transport animals to shelter locations. If you see an animal in need of rescue, help if you can do so safely (without putting yourself in danger), otherwise contact the appropriate authorities in your area.

If you are not close to the area, consider making a monetary donation to animal rescue groups, shelters and humane societies. Housing, feeding and caring for misplaced animals will require a lot of resources, and every little bit will help these animals while they wait to be reunited with their families or adopted into loving new homes. Look for places you know and trust, so you can be sure that your donation will directly benefit animals in need.

It will take months, even years, for the affected cities to recover fully from this devastating event. Let’s all chip in wherever we can to help get them on the road to recovery as quickly as possible.

Pet Insurance: Thank Goodness I Have It

By
Nancy Kerns
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0

To paraphrase Forrest Gump, life with dogs is like a box of chocolates; you never know what you are going to get.

In early May, my adolescent Pit/Lab-mix, Woody, started coughing and gagging dramatically. It seemed like he had something stuck in his throat, and though I looked in his mouth and throat I couldn’t see anything. It called for an immediate trip to the veterinarian.

With me holding Woody and a trained eye, the vet was immediately able to see the problem: Woody had some foxtails in his tonsils. This grassy plant is the bane of dogs in California; its long, pointed awns readily stick to flesh and start to travel inward, drawn by the microscopic projections on every surface of the filaments that trail the sharp seed. I’d guess that half the patients in the waiting room at the veterinary hospital were there for foxtails (in their paws, ears, and other places).

The vet put Woody under general anesthesia for a few minutes, and extracted the foxtails that she found in his tonsils, and more she found jammed into his gums around his farthest-back molars. He had evidently eaten a bunch of grass, probably in an effort to settle his tummy after getting into my chicken coop and eating a bunch of cracked grain. (I later found a poop in the back yard that was almost entirely undigested corn and other grains, and the upset-tummy/grass-gorging scenario is my best guess.)

About four days later, a huge lump appeared overnight on Woody’s cheek. Given the fact that the vet had just removed foxtails from Woody’s molars, I thought it entirely likely that he had another foxtail in his cheek, perhaps one that traveled from his upper gums. Back to the clinic. The vet agreed with my guess. She closely examined the outside of Woody’s cheek and the inside of his cheek and gums, and lanced the lump from inside, but couldn’t find the sort of entry hole or track that foxtails usually leave. He didn’t have a fever and there were no other signs of infection, so she said we should just watch the lump for a while.

While I was watching Woody’s lump, I noticed that Otto had developed a slight cough. Oh my goodness.

It wasn’t the gagging cough that Woody had displayed when he had the foxtails in his throat, but it was persistent. Back to the vet we went.

The vet looked in Otto’s mouth and throat and listened to Otto’s lungs carefully, but couldn’t see or hear anything amiss – and of course he didn’t cough while we were there. She suggested a “senior panel” – a very extensive blood test that would give us more information about his general health. Given that we live in heartworm country, even though Otto has been on heartworm preventive medications, I felt good that the blood test included a heartworm test.

The heartworm test was negative, and his other blood test results were unremarkable. More watching and waiting.

About a week later, with Woody’s lump still quite large and Otto’s cough getting worse, we went back to the vet.

A different vet saw Woody. He aspirated some fluid from the lump and said it was full of pus. He thought it was likely there was a piece of foxtail in the lump, after all, and recommended cutting into the lump and exploring it.  As it turned out, he never found a piece of foxtail, but removed the tissue inside the lump and sent some of the material to a pathologist. The final diagnosis was panniculitis: inflamed tissue likely caused by trauma. Given that Woody plays hard with his dog friends, the idea that he knocked his face on the corner of a coffee table or something made perfect sense.

As for Otto, this time I was prepared: Because he hadn’t coughed for the vet in our last visit, I had spent the week grabbing my cell phone and attempting to record every instance of Otto’s cough. I had a few examples ready to show the vet. Of course, this time, he coughed for the vet as if I had trained him to do so. His lungs still sounded clear, however.

Diagnostics this time: An x-ray of his chest and an abdominal ultrasound, looking for any masses and checking to make sure his organs all looked like they were the right size and in the right place. Everything looked normal except there was one surprise: the x-rays revealed a pattern that suggested Otto had pneumonia in one lobe of his right lung. It was surprising in that he had no fever and no other symptoms (such as crackly-sounding lungs), just the cough. One theory we are considering: perhaps Otto has a small amount of laryngeal paralysis, common enough in older dogs, and he aspirated some water while drinking or swimming, and this set the stage for the pneumonia to develop. The vet recommended a two-week course of an antibiotic (Clavamox) and a follow-up x-ray.

The Clavamox made absolutely no difference in his cough, and the follow-up x-rays looked even worse. The veterinarian recommended a bronchoscopy – under full anesthesia, putting a flexible instrument with a camera down his throat and into the lung, looking for anything unusual. (This would also help determine whether some laryngeal paralysis was present.) Most helpfully, the instrument can also send tiny bits of saline solution into the parts of his lungs that look inflamed and then suck the fluid back up, thus gathering some cells that can be cultured (a bronchial lavage). This could help us identify exactly what is causing the pneumonia and tailor an antibiotic regiment to the culprit.  The only problem was, the next day the procedure could be scheduled was the day before I was leaving for an out-of-state vacation. I didn’t feel comfortable leaving Otto after such a serious procedure; I wanted to be able to watch him for any potential, subtle signs of adverse effects from the procedure (the lung can get punctured and greater infections and problems can result).

Instead, we opted for Plan B: another course of antibiotics, but this time, using one of the “big guns” – a strong, broad-spectrum antibiotic called Baytril. Otto could take the antibiotic while I was gone (he stayed with my sister and her husband), and we’d follow up with another x-ray at the end of two weeks.

The follow-up x-ray, thank goodness, looked better, though not completely clear of the inflammation caused by pneumonia. The vet extended Otto’s prescription for another week, and we’ll take another x-ray when this course of antibiotics is complete. If there is still inflammation, we may well do the bronchoscopy and bronchial lavage, after all.

Three vet visits for Woody, five so far for Otto, with more to come . . . getting a good pet insurance policy was the best thing I did last year. It has given me so much peace of mind to know that whatever tests we need to run, or what medicines are prescribed (that Baytril is expensive!), I can easily afford it. The plan I signed both dogs up for is called Whole Pet with Wellness, offered by Nationwide (formerly VPI). I pay $58 a month for Woody, and $122 for Otto. After a $250 a year deductible for each dog, the policy pays for 90 percent of each allowed veterinary bill my dogs have incurred. We blew through the deductible in the first visit for each dog – but that means that I pay only 10 percent of each bill for the rest of the year. That means I’m breathing much more easily, and, I hope, so will Otto. I’ve heard him cough just once in the past week, and we will return to the vet for another follow-up x-ray later this week.

Safe Dog Food Bowls (and How to Keep Them That Way)

By
Nancy Kerns
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3

[Updated August 3, 2018]

I am sometimes shocked at the state of the dog bowls I’ve seen at some of my friends’ homes. Some of the same folks who would turn pale at the sight of a dish in the cupboard that has dried food stuck to it think nothing of dumping their dogs’ food in a nasty, greasy bowl day after day, month after month, or seeing green slime build up in the dogs’ water dish. While the canine digestive system is capable of neutralizing virulent bacteria when a dog is healthy, when a dog’s immune system is compromised, that bacteria can overwhelm his defenses and make him one sick pup, indeed.

If your dog has periodic or persistent digestive problems such as diarrhea or vomiting, try washing his dishes, daily, with hot water and soap, allowing them to air-dry, and see if that helps. Wait a minute! What am I saying? Everyone should keep their dogs’ bowls clean!

safe dog food bowls

© Damedeeso | Dreamstime

This advice goes triple for anyone who feeds their dog any sort or amount of raw meat, eggs, or dairy products, which can come from the supermarket infested with potentially lethal Campylobacter, Clostridium Perfringens, Salmonella, Listeria, and other bacteria. Fortunately, most people who have learned enough about canine health to feed their dog a raw diet also have learned about the importance of proper food preparation and sanitation techniques.

Food Bowl Materials Matter

The easiest type of bowl to keep clean – and, not incidently, also the safest bowl for your dog to eat and drink from – is stainless steel. This material will not leach potentially dangerous chemicals into your dog’s food and water, like some plastics, aluminum, poorly glazed pottery, or old ceramic dishes. Stainless steel and glass bowls are similarly inert, but stainless steel wins in my house, due to its durability on the floor and in the sink.

For the dog’s water dish I like to see a shining clean stainless bowl that is scrubbed and air-dried at least a couple times a week – which means you should have more than one of them, to rotate in and out of use. I especially hate to see plastic bowls regularly used to contain a dog’s water. Recent studies have indicated that polycarbonate plastics, often used in the manufacture of food and drink packaging and containers, can emit at least one chemical, bisphenol A, that can disrupt the hormone systems of lab animals, affecting their brains. Phthalates, substances used to soften plastic, are another class of worrisome chemicals that have been shown to cause hormone and nerve damage in children. It’s incredibly easy to avoid these things by buying inexpensive, durable, easy-to-wash, stainless steel bowls for your dogs, so why don’t you?

The 3 Reasons Dogs Ignore Our Cues

By
Nancy Tucker, CDBC, CPDT-KA
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[Updated December 26, 2018]

Dogs sometimes don’t do what we ask them to do. Annoyed, we might repeat a cue several times – louder and a little more sternly each time – usually with very little effect. “Fido, come here. Fido. Come. FIDO. I said here! COME! I mean it!”

We all do it. I once heard someone threaten to count to three – or else! (It didn’t work.) Often, the dog is then labeled as “stubborn.” It’s easy to think that’s the reason he “won’t listen.” I get it. It does kind of look like your dog is blowing you off. You ask him to come to you, and he just lies there, looking at you without budging. Or he might engage in a game of “Chase me!” Another time, you ask him to sit, and instead he stands and looks away. Or worse, he walks off. You may think, “But he knows this. He’s doing it on purpose!”

Well, there are better explanations why this happens, and your dog being stubborn or willful isn’t one of them. Possible causes can include simple things: Your dog may be suffering back pain and is trying to avoid activities that trigger his back pain, like jumping onto a high car seat. It may be that whatever you’re using as a reinforcer is not valuable enough to your dog; a few pieces of dry kibble can’t compare with the thrill of barking at a taunting squirrel on the back fence.

dog training

Of all the possible reasons for a dog’s failure to “listen,” three of them seem to come up consistently in my practice.

Reasons Dogs Don’t Listen:

– The dog isn’t even aware he’s been asked to do something.

– The dog doesn’t understand what he’s being asked to do.

– The cue you’re using has been “poisoned.”

Thankfully, there is something you can do about it. With a little investigation into understanding what’s happening and some easy training, you can polish your cues and improve the communication between you and your dog.

1. The Dog isn’t aware he’s been asked to do something.

I once visited a friend at her house, where I was greeted at the door by her dog, Bella. Bella was looking up at me excitedly, her tail was wagging, and it was evident she was getting ready to jump up on me. My friend noticed this and pre-emptively asked Bella to sit. “Sit. Sit. Sit!” Her cues were ignored and sure enough, Bella jumped up. My friend’s efforts became more hurried: “SIT! SIT!” She apologized to me and gently helped her dog down by using her hands.

At that moment I decided to do a little experiment. I explained that I would walk outside and come back in. Instead of just saying the “sit” cue, I asked my friend to say her dog’s name, make sure she had Bella’s attention, and then ask her to sit. I walked in as planned, my friend called out her dog’s name to get her attention, and when Bella glanced in her direction (it was barely a nano-glance, but it was there), she asked her to sit, which Bella did.

We often assume that when we utter a cue, our dogs know it’s meant for their ears. How are they to know? It’s our job to make it clear we’re addressing them before asking them to do something. Imagine waiting in a restaurant lobby for a table along with several other groups of people who are also waiting for a table. The hostess comes out, grabs a few menus, and announces to no one in particular, “Follow me, please.” Who is she talking to? Unsure, the people in the lobby would probably just stay put and wait for clarification. Half the group may not even be aware that the hostess has said anything at all!

You can let your dog (or anyone) know you’re addressing him by offering direct eye contact before speaking. Better yet, say his name first. Best, say his name, wait for confirmation he’s heard you, then say what you want to say. In the case of giving your dog a cue, say your dog’s name and wait until your dog either turns toward you or, if he’s very focused on something else, at least watch for a quick ear flick in your direction that indicates he’s aware that you’re speaking to him.

This is an especially handy habit to get into if there are multiple dogs sharing your home. Saying the dog’s name first lets that dog know that what follows is intended for him.

So, if your dog appears to be particularly distracted by something and you want to call him over to you, say his name first. You may need to add some kissy sounds or whistle, too. Wait for confirmation that he heard you, however fleeting, and then give him your recall cue.

2. The dog doesn’t understand want you want from him.

This means exactly what it sounds like. Your dog simply doesn’t know the cue as well as you think he does.

If you ask your dog to do something and he gets it right some of the time, it doesn’t necessarily mean that he’s deliberately choosing not to do it the rest of time. It’s entirely possible that when he got it right, he was just guessing. By doing exactly what you had asked him to do, it appeared as though he was responding to your cue because he “understood” it. Seen this way, it’s easy to assume that his occasional lack of response is some sort of defiance!

This is easy enough to fix with some fun training sessions. Even though you may think your dog “knows” a certain behavior, start as though you are teaching your dog the behavior for the very first time.

dog training

Let’s take “Down” as an example. A training plan for teaching “Down” might look like this:

a) With your dog sitting facing you, take one treat and hold it to your dog’s nose with your palm facing down.

b) Without saying anything, slowly lower your hand toward the floor in a straight vertical line, luring your dog’s snout to follow it. Your dog’s butt should remain on the floor. If he stands up, you may be moving your hand too quickly. Have him sit and begin again, more slowly.

c) When your hand reaches the floor, slowly move it along the floor, horizontally and toward you. You will have shaped a letter “L” from snout to floor, and from your dog’s body toward you. The idea is to get your dog to keep following the treat with his nose, bend down toward the floor, and then, while following your hand on the floor, stretch his front legs out to lie down.

d) The second his elbows touch the floor and he is in a down position, “mark” the correct behavior with the click of a clicker or a verbal marker (such as the word “Yes!”) and deliver a treat to him on the floor between his front legs. I prefer to deliver the treat on the floor instead of directly into the dog’s mouth, because it encourages him to hold the down position. If, after a few repetitions, he expects the treat to be delivered on the floor between his front legs, he’ll resist the temptation to stand up and reach for it in my hand.

e) Repeat this sequence two or three more times, and then quickly follow up with the exact same exercise, but with an empty hand (no treat/lure). When he reaches the down position, say “Yes!” before you reach for a treat and deliver it to him between his front paws.

f) Repeat this sequence with an empty hand several more times. You are teaching him the body language/hand signal for the down behavior.

Note that you have not yet given a verbal cue of “Down,” you’re just using a hand gesture at this point. Even if this seems like too simple an exercise for you and your dog, remember that you are going back to square one with this training exercise in an effort to start fresh. Only when this exercise is going well and your dog is consistently following your hand gesture is it time to add a verbal cue.

g) Say your dog’s name, followed by the word “Down” (or whatever other word you want to use as a cue). After you’ve said his name and given your verbal cue – and not until you’ve finished saying it – do your hand gesture, from snout level to the floor. At this point, you might not need to slowly move your hand horizontally to illustrate the bottom part of the letter “L.” Once you’ve moved your hand to the floor, pause and wait to see if your dog will lie down. Give him a moment to think about it, if necessary. Keep your eyes on the floor in front of him (don’t stare him in the eye).

It’s important not to say the cue and do the gesture simultaneously. You want your dog to build an association between the verbal cue and the hand gesture that he already knows. We want him to put 2 and 2 together, “Oh, I see. That sound she’s making is always followed by that gesture. I know what that means.”

When he lies down, say “Yes!” and deliver the treat on the floor between his front legs.

Repeat this sequence several more times.

h) Now, say his name followed by your cue – “Fido, down” – but don’t use your hand gesture. Keep your eyes on the floor in front of him, and give him a few moments to think about it. If he hasn’t made a move after 10 to 15 seconds, silently offer him the hand gesture. Reward him if he lies down. Don’t repeat the verbal cue. Keep trying this sequence until he lies down with just the verbal cue. Reward him each time he succeeds.

i) Once he’s got the verbal cue down pat, it’s time to start changing the context a little bit. Change rooms. Try it outside. Try asking him to lie down (don’t forget to say his name before the cue!) when you’re sitting on a chair or couch instead of standing in front him. Or try asking him while you’re standing, holding grocery bags or a laundry basket. Continue to reward him with a treat each time he gets it right, because you’re still in the training phase.

Soon, when you’re sure he understands the cue in many different contexts, you can start offering him “real life rewards” instead of treats. Ask him to lie down for a belly rub (if he likes that), or lie down before serving his food bowl.

We’ve used the “down” behavior as an example here, but the message remains the same for any behavior you think your dog “knows” but doesn’t do consistently. Simply start from the beginning and gradually increase the level of difficulty as your dog gets each step right almost every time you ask him (four out of five times is a good rate to aim for).

3. The cue has been “poisoned”.

Now there’s an illustrative term for you. A poisoned cue is one that has come to mean something unpleasant to your dog. It can be a baffling issue to deal with. Your dog used to respond happily to a cue, and now when you say it, he pins his ears back and slinks away. What happened?

Sometimes, we inadvertently cause a dog to form a negative association between a cue and an event he finds aversive or scary. It may be because of something we’ve done, like asking a dog to “Sit” and then “rewarding” him by scruffing the fur on each side of his face – something we aren’t aware he doesn’t like.

Another possibility is that there are cues in the environment that predict an unpleasant thing is about to take place. Say, for example, that you pick up the dog’s leash and he runs and hides before you get a chance to attach it to his collar. It could be that he’s anticipating that you are taking him someplace in the car, an event he’s found to be scary in the past.

There is an easy way and a not-so-easy way to fix this.

The more complicated way is to counter-condition your dog’s response to the cue he finds aversive. Since he’s already formed a negative association with the cue, your job is to help him form a newer, more pleasant association. It can be a time-consuming task, but it works beautifully when done correctly.

The general rules that apply to successful counter-conditioning are:

– The cue must no longer predict that a bad thing will happen (ever).

– The cue must predict the good thing will happen (every single time).

– The good thing must happen only when that particular cue precedes it.

If we apply these rules to the formerly aversive “Sit” cue in our earlier example, the counter-conditioning process might look like this:

cheese stock photo

– “Sit” no longer predicts that the dog’s fur will get scruffed. Ever.

– When the dog sits after hearing the “Sit” cue, he’ll get some cheese. Every single time.

– Cheese will only appear when the dog sits after being asked to sit. Cheese will not appear at any other time.

The easy way involves simply using a new cue. It’s not like we have to use the word “sit” for that particular behavior. Seriously, you can use any word you like! You can use “spaghetti” to mean “Please fold your hind legs and place your butt on the floor.” Your dog doesn’t care.

You can teach the new cue by following the instructions above (in the #2 section) for teaching a behavior from scratch.

Is Your Dog’s Name Poisoned?

If you’re planning to adopt a dog from a shelter or from any other scenario where you’re not sure about the dog’s history (or you know the dog’s prior experience was not a positive one), consider changing his name when he comes to live with you. If he often heard his name prior to receiving a punishment (“Fido, NO! Bad dog!”), he may have formed negative associations with his name. In other words, his own name may have become a poisoned cue, predicting something aversive is about to happen. Give him a nice new name that doesn’t sound anything like his old name! (For more on the importance of a dog’s name, see “The Importance of a Dog’s Name with Regards to Training,” in the January 2011 issue of WDJ.)

Thanks to TTouch practitioner Victoria Hieb-Swiger of Tranquil Paws Training in Oroville, CA, for demonstrating this method.

Nancy Tucker, CPDT-KA, is a full-time trainer, behavior consultant, and seminar presenter in Quebec, Canada.

Put A Stop to Door-Darting Dogs

By
Stephanie Colman
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It seems easy enough. You just want to answer the door to receive your pizza or welcome a visitor. And yet, in many homes, this seemingly simple task requires ninja-like reflexes as owners struggle to keep their dogs from squeezing past them, eager to embark upon a neighborhood joy ride.

Trainers call this behavior “door darting.” Not only is it inconvenient, it’s dangerous – especially if your dog fails to come reliably when called. Door darting can be an issue in any home, but it’s often challenging in homes with heavy foot traffic, especially when young children are present.

Door darting is an impulse-control problem. It’s also incredibly self-rewarding. Remedying the issue requires teaching the dog to exhibit self-control around an open door, while employing diligent management to prevent the rehearsal of unwanted behavior. The following tips can help.

door darting dogs

Train a “Wait” and a “Get Back” Behavior

Teach your dog to patiently wait at a safe distance from the door. This is easiest to teach your dog in an environment that has an obvious threshold or change in flooring – the line where a carpeted living room intersects with a tile entryway. If an obvious line of demarcation isn’t present, a marker can be created with a throw rug or even a strip of painter’s tape.

As your dog follows you to the door, calmly say, “Wait!” and toss a treat behind him just before he reaches the “no-fly zone.” Be ready to toss another treat as soon as he finishes and turns around. Repeat several times before reaching for or opening the door. The goal is to use a high rate of reinforcement to make the area away from the door a wonderful place to wait.

Unlike a formal stay, when I teach “wait,” I don’t require a specific position, nor do I care if the dog changes position during the exercise. He can sit, stand, lie down, or move laterally, so long as he doesn’t drift past my line of demarcation. If he does, step into his path to block his forward movement, and then invite him back into his “safe zone” and reinforce him there. As soon as he’s in the desired area, praise calmly, remind him to “wait,” take a step or two backward to relieve the social pressure, and toss a cookie at the first sign of hesitation, which is the beginning of self-control.

The goal is to help your dog do the desired behavior (back up) so you can reinforce him for it, not to coerce, pressure, or frighten him. Use calm, controlled movements and adjust your technique as necessary, based on your dog’s overall temperament.

As your dog demonstrates a willingness to hover in the “safe zone,” thanks to your generous reinforcement history, slowly start working toward opening the door. Split the behavior into several small pieces, repeating each step three to five times – or more, depending on what your dog needs – and rewarding his patience every time. Steps might include reaching for (but not touching) the door knob; touching and turning the knob without opening the door; opening the door an inch or two and then closing it, etc.

dog in the doorway

If, at any point, your dog steps into the “no fly zone,” immediately block his path and invite him to “get back.” If your dog makes the same mistake twice, revisit the easier step.

As you progress to opening the door, put your dog on leash or use an exercise pen as a second line of containment to ensure his safety, should he unexpectedly make a break for the open door.

Train a Strong “Sit-Stay” Behavior

Another option is to teach a reliable sit- or down-stay away from the front door. This requires a very high level of impulse control since the main entryway to a home is a high-excitement area for most dogs. It’s important to increase the difficulty of this exercise slowly, and “pay” your dog well throughout the training process, in order for your dog to begin to believe it’s worth it to stay on his spot instead of rushing toward the open door.

Ideally, the finished behavior consists of three main parts: “go to your spot” (so you can “send” your dog to his spot as you move toward the door), a solid stay, and the ability to hold a sit-stay or down-stay around a high level of distractions.

My preference is a down-stay. I like to teach the basic down-stay first, practicing increasingly longer stays and stays in the face of small, and increasingly larger distractions, until the dog can confidently remain in position for about one minute, even as the handler walks around him or squeaks a toy.

Separately, I’ll teach the “go to your spot” behavior. Depending on the dog, I might use targeting, shaping, luring, or any combination of these to teach the dog to go to and lie down on a dog bed or mat.

Finally, the two behaviors come together and the dog is reminded to “stay” after he goes to his bed. From there, it’s all about slowly building the behavior such that it resists the myriad distractions associated with opening the front door.

Be sure to reward often. A Treat & Train or similar remote-operated treat dispenser is often helpful, as it allows you to reward the dog from a distance without needing to toss the treats. At the advanced level, you can even teach your dog to go to his “spot” on the cue of the doorbell!

Training is Critical for Dog Safety

Realistically, it’s difficult to actively train this behavior as actual guests are entering your home. Training is what happens when your focus is on your dog. Testing is what happens when you’re focused on visitors. As you work up to the distraction of receiving actual guests, recruit helpers to come knock on your door and play the role of visitors – guests who understand they aren’t there to socialize, but are playing an active role in your training program. Practice often!

Management is Just as Important

If you aren’t in the position to actively train the desired behavior, it’s important to use good management to keep the dog from practicing unwanted behavior. Some examples include:

“Feeding the chickens.”Teach your dog that good things happen away from the front door. Any time you approach the door, toss a small handful of kibble eight to 10 feet from the door, and encourage your dog to “Find it!” Finding kibble on the floor is incompatible with rushing the front door, and it gives humans a chance to enter or exit. Play this game often, not just when you or your guests actually need to pass through the open door.

This approach often also works well for dogs who suffer from what I call “Excessive Greeting Disorder” – over-the-top excited jumping on people. A scattering of kibble, followed by some additional rapid-fire tossing of single pieces, helps change the dog’s focal point, and the sniffing required to source the food bits even has a mild calming effect on some dogs. In homes with multiple dogs, be mindful of potential food-guarding issues.

Gate in the doorway. An inexpensive, pressure-mounted baby gate can be installed in the doorway to serve as an emergency barrier to prevent door darting. In many doorways, a gate will fit even with a screen door and will still allow the main door to close. A 24-inch gate is short enough for most adults to step over, making it realistic to keep this management strategy in place at all times in homes with accomplished door darters.

Exercise pen air lock.Use an exercise pen on your front porch to form an emergency corral just outside of the door. If your dog manages to slip past you, he’s safely contained on the porch and can’t embark on a neighborhood joy ride. This doesn’t solve the root problem – the door darting – but it’s especially helpful in high-traffic homes where many people might be opening the door and not everyone is as committed to active training.

dog proof gate

Tether station. Another valuable management tool is a simple tether. You can use a spare leash or make a simple chew-proof tether with a length of vinyl-coated cable, cable clamps, and a couple of snaps.

Attach the leash or tether to a heavy piece of furniture (or an eyebolt screwed securely into something solid) near the main entryway to your home. As your dog follows you to the door, make it a habit to quickly tether him before opening the door. A sticky note on the door is a great reminder for everyone in the family. This works well when receiving visitors, or bringing the groceries into the house from the car, but it’s not safe to leave him there, unsupervised, when you leave the house.

Last, but not least…

Train a reliable recall. While the end goal is to give your dog rewarding alternatives to door darting, mistakes sometimes happen. Should your dog unexpectedly get loose, it’s important you be able to quickly call him back to you. Investing the time to train your dog to reliably come when called – even when distracted – is vitally important. A solid recall is a potentially life-saving behavior. It takes committed practice (training versus testing!) and ongoing maintenance. Fortunately, there are many fun training games designed to improve a dog’s recall. For a review, see past WDJ articles:

“Rocket Recall,” Sept 2015.

“Games for Building Reliable Recall Behavior for Your Dog,” Sept 2014.

“Training Your Dog to Execute an Extremely Fast Recall,” Sept 2012.

Stephanie Colman is a writer and dog trainer in Southern California.

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