A normal metric would say no to the idea of a baby and four large dogs. But for the author's family, it was perfect. The key is how interested the adults are in making the situation work.
“As soon as Sam is the right age, we’re going to get a dog,” my friend said. According to her research, 5 years old is the magic number. Is five the best age for kids to get a dog? The problem with that enticingly simple rule is that there are plenty of 5-year-olds who are nowhere near ready to share a household safely with a dog – and plenty of 2-year-olds who are. Further, there are teenagers who can either be an incredible asset or a dangerous weak link.
The actual key to successful dog ownership is whether the adults in the household are ready to manage the situation. If they are, then almost any dog/child combination can work. Is the timing right for your family? Here are the five questions to ask yourself:
1. Is at least one adult in the household truly excited about owning a dog? If you’re doing it simply “for the kids,” don’t. For busy parents who didn’t really want a dog in the first place, the relentless nature of canine care quickly becomes overwhelming.
2 Is the dog lover in the family the one who is home and available most? If the canine enthusiast works 70 hours a week but promises to handle the dog care, this is not the time to get a dog. Even very smart dogs cannot be trained to throw up on the rug only when Daddy is home.
3. Who will train the dog? The dog/children combination is deeply rewarding when the dogs are nicely integrated into the household through good management and training – and virtually impossible to cope with when they are not. Will you be able to find the focus and energy necessary to teach a dog the behavior that is crucial to parental sanity and child safety? Will you be ready to problem-solve – “He tore apart Fluffy the bear!” – thinking through solutions incorporating exercise, training, gates for dog-free zones, strategic storage of enticing items, etc.?
4. Who will train the kids?No matter how much you work with a dog, if she is exposed to kids who put pencils in her ears, she will learn to defend herself. You won’t be okay with the result. Training your children – and their friends – how to play kindly and safely with dogs is imperative. Can you commit to that careful oversight?
5. How do you feel about chaos? I know you’re picturing a sleepy puppy snuggling in your child’s lap. Here’s a more helpful visualization exercise: The playdate mommy is on your porch, horrified because she’s just stepped in some poop. You can’t hear her over your sobbing toddler, whose Pop-Tart was stolen by your puppy. As you stand in the doorway apologizing, the puppy slips out, runs through the mud, and jumps up on the playdate mommy’s daughter, who is (was) wearing a lovely dress.
Now I ask you: Are you ready for a dog?
Dogs always bring a certain measure of unpredictable chaos to a home. For our family, that’s been welcome. It’s been a 25-year tapestry of funny, warm chaos. Knowing we can’t have a pristine white couch has been the doorway to a more relaxed lifestyle. The acceptance that a shoe may get chewed has been a reminder not to value possessions too highly. Having animals in our house has taught lessons in rolling with the punches and laughing at mishaps. Not a bad curriculum for your kids, right?
The key is that the adults in the household have to embrace that outlook. So, it comes down to whether the parents are ready for a dog. Are you ready to handle that inevitable muddy-Pop-Tart-disaster of a morning with a little quick action, a lot of laughter, and then some problem-solving? If so – you’re the right age for a dog!
Pictured here is an ideal example: Dog daycare facilities should have large outdoor spaces for dogs to run and play in. The footing should be clean and secure - not slippery in any weather. For dogs who need a break, the space should feature equipment to hide under or behind. Fences should be secure and provide a total visual barrier, to prevent dogs from being triggered into and practicing nuisance barking. Tools and receptacles for waste clean-ups should be plentiful.
*All the photos for this article appear courtesy of The Canine Connection, a dog daycare, boarding, and training facility in Chico, California.
Many modern dog owners turn to dog daycare facilities as a source of socialization and exercise, especially in cases where dogs are otherwise home alone for the owner’s full workday.
We’ve all heard the saying, “A tired dog is a good dog,” but there’s a vast difference between a dog who sleeps because he’s tired and content, and a dog who sleeps because he’s exhausted from a stress-filled day. Dogs who spend much of their day engaged in exciting activity, such as the group play often found in poorly run daycare settings, actually experience a great deal of arousal. Arousal comes with a rush of adrenaline and cortisol, which are stress hormones. Prolonged elevated levels of stress hormones aren’t healthy – for pets or people!
DOG DAYCARE SHOULDN’T BE A FREE-FOR-ALL
It’s important to understand that all dog daycare facilities are not created equal. Generally, knowledgeable trainers agree that daycare facilities where large groups of dogs have access to free play for the majority of their visit (we’ll call those facilities “traditional daycare”) aren’t in the best interest of most dogs.
“Long periods of forced social time in a large group of potentially conflicting personalities can cause a lot of tension,” says Ashlee Osborn, KPA-CTP, CPDT-KA, of Bonafide Dog Academy in Omaha, Nebraska. “Large group play causes heightened arousal, even in dogs who really enjoy it. This can lead to a variety of undesirable behaviors such as mouthing, jumping, barking, humping, and even fighting.”
Osborn oversees Bonafide Dog Academy’s Bonafide Day Academy, a training and enrichment-focused daycare program with an overall focus on behavioral and mental wellness. Bonafide’s model limits free play in favor of activity-focused play, simulated off-leash walks using a long line, nosework games, calming food puzzles, manners or sport-dog training, and interactive play with staff.
Group dog play typically consists of two compatible dogs paired together, or occasionally, in small groups of not more than three to five dogs. Activities are punctuated with structured downtime, with a goal of making sure each dog enjoys at least an hour of uninterrupted sleep during the day.
Bonafide’s program is dramatically different from some of the traditional dog daycares we’ve seen where, often, groups as large as 30 or more dogs spend the day in a community setting, being separated from the group only as a “time out” for exhibiting undesirable behavior. Often, proprietors of such facilities just don’t know any better.
“Much like dog training, dog daycare is an unregulated industry,” says Mandy Eakins, KPA-CTP, CPDT-KA, owner and trainer at Manners Matter Dog Training and Daycare in Nicholasville, Kentucky. “Anyone can open a daycare. Just because someone really likes dogs, and has had dogs, does not make them qualified to oversee groups of dogs.”
We Advise Playing Naked
Dogs should not be wearing any collars (other than breakaway safety collars) or harnesses while spending time at a daycare facility. It’s just too easy for fatal collar-related accidents to occur during group play.
Collars can be a hot topic when it comes to dog-to-dog play. While some people appreciate the ability to quickly grab a collar in an emergency, others fear – with good reason – the risk of injury (or worse!) that can occur when a dog accidentally gets his jaw stuck in the collar of a playmate.
In some cases, the use of collars can be helpful to tell similar-looking dogs apart or to remind staff of specific details related to a specific dog; one facility we know uses color-coded breakaway collars to identify intact dogs and dogs with food allergies.
Having heard far too many horror stories about collar-related strangulation, we’d advise looking for a facility that either removes collars completely or trades the dogs’ regular collars for breakaway collars. If facility staff suggests that quickly grabbing collars is necessary for the general management of dogs in a group setting, this might suggest the overall environment is not structured in ways that set dogs up for success.
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
When considering dog daycare, it’s important to do your research. While we advise looking for a daycare that emphasizes enrichment over long hours spent “free ranging” with other dogs, no matter the facility, we recommend considering:
* Admissions process. A reputable daycare should ask for background about your dog’s behavior and medical history, as well as conduct an evaluation prior to welcoming your dog into the program. It’s important to be honest when completing intake paperwork and discussing your dog. The more the facility staff knows about your dog, the better prepared they’ll be to help create a positive experience at daycare.
When it comes to accepting intact dogs, policies vary. With more pet owners leaning toward delaying spay/neuter until after 1 year of age, some daycare facilities are more flexible about welcoming intact dogs. Obviously it’s important to closely manage intact dogs in a group setting, so be sure to ask questions. How are intact dogs incorporated into a play group?
* Is daycare right for your dog? Not all dogs enjoy the company of other dogs – especially groups of other dogs, and that’s okay! Eakins says younger dogs with an easy-going play style tend to do best in a group play setting. Adult dogs who haven’t been exposed to group play are less likely to integrate successfully.
If you’re considering daycare because your dog otherwise sleeps all day and you think he’s bored, consider this: Dogs are crepuscular, meaning, they are naturally most active at dawn and dusk. It’s perfectly normal for dogs to spend much of their days asleep!
Participants for playgroups should be matched in size and play style. The Labradoodle in the back is larger than most of the other dogs in this group, but he’s also young and shy, and not remotely ready for rough-and-tumble play. This group suits him perfectly.
* Group size, selection, and amount of free play. When it comes to group play, less is more! Dogs typically play in pairs, even when in a group setting. Watch a group of dogs. It’s pretty easy to spot which two are actively playing together, and which dogs are on the outskirts of the interaction, trying to lobby their way in.
We recommend looking for a facility that limits group size to a maximum of 10 dogs together at a time, matched based on both size and play style, with at least two knowledgeable and skilled humans overseeing the activity. Even a high-volume facility can accomplish this by rotating dogs between group playtime and rest breaks, which are key to preventing over-arousal.
“Dogs need time to decompress,” says Osborn. “Anything longer than an hour of group play at a time is going to be too much for most dogs.” For some dogs, play lasting more than 20 to 30 minutes can begin to send them over the edge.
Areas for downtime should be completely out of view of group play to promote rest and prevent frustration behaviors. Dogs who actively ignore group interaction should have an easy way to opt out in favor of an activity better suited to their general temperament or their mood that day.
At The Canine Connection, most dogs take their rest periods in individual kennels, which are situated in rooms that hold no more than four kennels apiece. But older and particularly mellow dogs may take their naps in the facility lounge, which boasts leather sofas and Dog TV.
* Facility design and safety. Play space should be free from hazards, well ventilated, and have a non-slip surface with good drainage. Messes should be cleaned immediately using an animal-safe disinfectant. Toys, bowls, and kennels should be cleaned daily.
Facilities should insist daycare participants have, at a minimum, any vaccines required by law. Dogs exhibiting signs of illness (diarrhea, vomiting, coughing, runny nose, etc.) should not be allowed to participate. The facility should have a detailed emergency plan – in writing – and be able to explain, at least briefly, how an emergency evacuation would take place.
“At Manners Matter, our city emergency response knows dogs are on the premises, and an animal shelter emergency vehicle will be dispatched for any calls from our facility,” says Eakins. The team also practices emergency drills ranging from severe weather to breaking up fights.
* Staffing and staff education. “A good daycare provider should use proactive management to prevent problems and aim to set up dogs for success,” says Osborn. If spray bottles, shake cans, citronella collars, or worse, electric collars, are the go-to on the play floor, that’s a huge red flag. A good facility will create smaller playgroups, and constantly adjust the mix of individuals in groups to keep play from spinning up into overstimulation.
The ability to set up dogs for success requires a knowledgeable staff led by a management team committed to continuing education. Ask how the staff has been educated about dog body language and behavior; the answer should include some formal learning with professional materials, not simply a number of years of experience with dogs. As you listen to the answer, pay attention: Does anyone casually throw around words like “dominant” or “stubborn?” (Those are red-flag words that would not be used in a facility committed to adog-friendly approach.)
If a facility touts “certified” trainers, ask questions about the certification. Do trainers rely on positive reinforcement or do they call themselves “balanced,” which often implies a willingness to use strong aversives, even outside of emergency situations. Make sure the facility employs enough qualified staff to ensure dogs on the group play floor are always properly supervised and never left alone.
* Too much of a good thing? Even the most enrichment and wellness-focused daycare facility can be too much for most dogs to attend daily. “Very few dogs do well attending daycare five days a week,” says Eakins. Over-stimulation is just as bad as under-stimulation, and dogs need time to rest and recover from the excitement of daycare.
Consider limiting daycare to a couple of consistently scheduled days per week (to help keep compatible play groups intact) with a day or two break between visits.
If you think your dog needs more interaction during the week, try looking for a dog walker who can offer your dog lower-key activities on the “off” days.
The trainer has given a verbal cue to the dog, with no physical cues or hints. The dog is unsure; she thinks maybe the cue is for "down," but she's not sure. She hedges with the start of a "down" but stalls out, waiting for confirmation that she's on the right track.
It is well known in the dog world that our canine companions are primarily body language communicators, i.e., visual learners. This makes sense; they communicate with each other primarily through body language, including posture, facial expressions, and movement. When we start training them, they learn hand-signal cues and body prompts quite easily, but usually, we have to put extra effort into getting our dogs to respond reliably to our verbal cues.
This explains why dogs sometimes don’t respond to a verbal cue even though the cue-giver is confident that their dog “knows” it. All too often the person giving the cue fails to realize that, usually, they accompany their verbal cues with one or more subtle body cues (such as a slight movement of their shoulders, a downward glance, or a tilt of the head), that their dog depends on to understand and respond to the cue.
SO WHY VERBAL?
Our training programs here at Peaceable Paws emphasize the use of verbal cues; we start with verbal cues in our basic training classes and add hand signals in our more advanced classes.
If dogs are such great body language communicators, why do we start with verbal cues? Because we humans are a verbal species and our dogs have to live in our world! Our clients want to be able to talk to their dogs and have their dogs respond.
Also, if we begin with the more challenging piece, neither dog nor human become reliant on the easy hand signals. They learn the verbal cues first – and the hand signals, when we get to them, are a breeze. The humans are happy that they can communicate verbally with their dogs and delighted by how quickly their dogs learn the body language cues when we add them.
Additionally, there are times when we need to cue our dogs when they can’t see us. They may be too far away, it might be dark, they might be in another room, or looking elsewhere. Voice cues may be able to reach them when hand signals cannot.
HOW TO TEACH A VERBAL CUE
Here’s how we get new behaviors on verbal cue, using “Down” for our example:
1. Without yet using any verbal cue, lure your dog into a down position from a sit. Put the treat in front of her nose and move the treatslowly toward the ground.
When her elbows touch the ground – when she’s fully in the down position – mark the moment with the “click!” of a clicker or a verbal marker, such as the word “Yes!” and feed her a treat. You may need to mark and treat several times on the way down, until your dog figures out what you are asking of her.
2. When your dog easily follows the lure into a down position, add the verbal cue. With your treat out of sight (put your hands behind your back), say “Down” clearly and happily, just one time. Pause briefly, then lure your dog into the down. When her elbows touch the ground, mark the behavior (click or “yes!”) and give her a treat. Repeat 6 to 7 times.
3. Now, say “Down” as in Step 2, but vary the amount of time you pause before using the lure. This gives her time to process what you are asking of her and time to offer a response.
If you see her look at the ground, or make a slight movement, it’s as if she’s asking, “Is this right?” If she does this tell her, “Good girl!” and quickly lure her the rest of the way – then mark the correct behavior and give her a treat.
4. Some dogs will begin offering the “Down” behavior on your verbal cue during Step 3. This is a nice shortcut – mark and treat and keep practicing. (Just because she does it once doesn’t mean she completely understands and gets it; you still need to practice to make it a solid, reliable response.)
5. Most dogs need some additional steps before they begin offering the “Down” on verbal cue alone. Continue to fade the lure as in Step 3. As you move the treat to the floor, watch her closely. When she appears to be committed to lying down, whisk the treat quickly away and hide it behind your back. If she finishes the “Down,” mark and treat.
If she doesn’t finish, bring the treat back out and lure her the rest of the way, marking (click or “yes!”) when her elbows hit the ground and giving her a treat.
Next time, lure her a little farther toward the floor before whisking the treat away. Continue to vary the amount of time you wait after giving the verbal cue before luring.
6. Gradually whisk the treat away sooner and sooner, until you are barely or not using the lure at all. Notice that I don’t suggest doing any intermediate hand signals or body prompts in this process, like pointing at the ground – or worse, using “air cookies” (holding my empty hand in such as way to appear that I have a treat). If you use any kind of gesture, your dog still hasn’t learned the verbal cue, and you still have to go through the process of fading the hand signal or prompt.
7. At some point, your dog will begin to lie down when she hears the verbal cue, without a lure. Congratulations! Now, start helping her to generalize this cue and behavior to other locations; practice in a variety of environments, starting in low-distraction places and gradually building up to more distracting ones.
The procedure works the same way for any other behaviors you want to “put on verbal cue.” Use your lure to show your dog what you want her to do. As soon as she will lure easily into position, introduce a clear verbal cue, and then start fading the lure, until she will do the behavior on just the verbal cue. Then generalize.
DO’S AND DON’TS OF VERBAL CUES
A few important things to keep in mind about verbal cues:
* Cues are not “dog commands.” Educated trainers no longer use the word “command” – which has a “Do it or else!” implication. Modern trainers use “cues” – and a cue is simply an opportunity for the dog to be reinforced for performing a behavior.
* Give cues in gentle, cheerful tones. Even the word “command” implies a loud, forceful, mean, commanding tone of voice.
Deliver the treat to her lips, so she doesn’t have to get up to reach it!
* Say the cue one time, and if the dog doesn’t do the desired behavior, help him (with a lure or body prompt). He may not know the behavior as well as you thought, he may have been distracted, he may not have heard you. If you repeat the cue, “Sit. Sit! SIT!” (becoming more commanding with each repetition) then “Sit. Sit! SIT!” becomes the cue and your dog may learn to wait until he hears the third cue every time, before he performs the behavior.
* It will help your dog if everyone who interacts with him uses the same cues. While dogs can learn multiple cues for the same behavior, it’s easier for your dog if you keep it simple – one verbal cue for one behavior.
* That said, dogs cannot learn multiple behaviors for the same cue. Again, everyone needs to honor this caveat with your dog. If “Down!” is supposed to mean “lie down flat” then you need a different word that means “Get off the sofa” or “Don’t jump on me.” I use “Down” to mean “Lie down” and “Off” to mean “Get off of something.”
* Short, crisp cues generally work better than long, multi-syllabic words. Although dogs can learn longer words, the English “Sit” tends to work better than the French, “Asseyez-vous.” “Fetch” tends to work better than “Bring it here.” However, it is also true that once they have learned a cue very well, dogs are able to pick cues out of a sentence. When your dog is really reliable with his “Off” cue, you can say, “Please get off the sofa” and he will – and you can feel less stilted in your communications with him.
* Pronounce your cue the same way from one time to the next. If you normally give a short, crisp “Down” cue, but sometimes you use a more emphatic, drawn-out “Doowwnn,” there’s a good chance your dog might not understand you. Or, as in the “Sit. Sit! SIT!” example, it may end up that your dog recognizes only the “Doowwnn!”as the cue. Be consistent!
PUT THE TIME IN
It’s true that it takes a little longer to teach verbal cues than hand signals. But, all in all, it isn’t that difficult to do, and it’s completely worth the effort when you know you can communicate with your dog in your own native language.
Hand Signal Cues
Hand signals can be used to cue a limitless number and variety of behaviors, and they are especially handy (no pun intended) for those occasions when you don’t want to disrupt quiet time (the baby’s sleeping!), interrupt your phone conversation or Zoom meeting, and for communicating with hearing-impaired dogs.
There are two different philosophies regarding hand signals – and they both work. The first is that hand signals should be large and vigorous, so your dog can easily see them from far away. If you do distance work with your dog, these are, indeed, preferred. Large signals are commonly used in various canine competitions, as the handler doesn’t want to risk having her dog miss the signals. The second approach is to use small, subtle, hand signals so you can cue your dog unobtrusively in close quarters, in polite company, or in public.
The good news is that, because dogs can learn multiple cues for the same behavior, you can teach yours both the big signals for distance work, and the small signals for close-up work, if you want.
Still, we humans are a verbal species, and we want – and expect – our dogs to respond to our spoken cues. For that reason, in our Peaceable Paws training programs we emphasize teaching verbal cues, then add the relatively easy hand signals after the dog knows the verbal cue.
Pineapples are not on the banned list of dog foods. Photo: eclipse_images/Getty Images
As dog parents, we want our pups to live happy and healthy lives. It’s common to wonder if dogs can eat some of our favorite healthy snacks, such as pineapple. But some foods may have health benefits for humans but are toxic for dogs, such as grapes and dark chocolate.
Pineapples are not on the banned list of dog foods, says Shadi Ireifej, DVM DACVS.
“Fed in moderation, your dog can ingest pineapple,” says Dr. Ireifej, the founder and chief medical officer at VetTriage.
Dr. Ireifej shares everything you need to know about letting your dog have a little pineapple.
Are pineapples good for dogs?
Dr. Ireifej says pineapples are low on calories but high in vitamins, antioxidants and minerals, which may have some health benefits for dogs. These include potassium, calcium, zinc and folate.
“Pineapples have manganese, [which supports] growth and metabolism,” says Dr. Ireifej.
They may also aid in gastrointestinal and immune system health in part because of the vitamin C they contain.
Pineapples are also delicious — they’re full of natural sugars. Ireifej suggests opting for fresh or frozen pineapple.
“Avoid canned due to added sugar content or rinse it to remove the added sugar,” he suggests.
Can dogs eat pineapple? Here’s what you need to know before giving your dog pineapple. Photo: manushot/Getty Images
What are the cons of giving your dog pineapple?
A little pineapple is fine, but Ireifej doesn’t recommend making it part of your pup’s everyday diet. Though the sugars in pineapple are natural, there’s a such thing as too much of a good thing. Ireifej warns feeding a dog too much sugar can lead to obesity, diabetes and dental disease.
“A few chunks that are peeled and sliced into bite-sized pieces are preferred,” Dr. Ireifej suggests.
What side effects should I look out for if my dog eats pineapple?
Sometimes, food just doesn’t agree with your dog. If you notice any of these side effects after giving your dog pineapple, call your vet. You may also try some of these at-home remedies with their approval.
Gastroenteritis: If your pup has a stomachache, Dr. Ireifej says you may try giving them broiled chicken and rice for five to 10 days. Increase walks to aid in digestion. Ireifej recommends four to six times per day if you can swing it. Symptoms include diarrhea, vomiting, a noisy gut, gas and general discomfort. Dr. Ireifej also says you might notice your dog eating grass, not eating at all, drinking more water than usual and pacing. He suggests seeing a vet for a formal diagnosis.
Constipation: Similar to gastroenteritis, four to six walks per day can help get things moving. Another bit of another table food, canned pumpkin, may also help. The amount of pumpkin you give is size-dependent. Ireifej says there’s no hard and fast rule, but he recommends one tablespoon for smaller dogs, two for medium breeds, three for large and four for extra-large. Consult your vet if you are unsure. And increase water intake. Try making it fun by “allowing the pet to play with and ingest ice cubes,” Ireifej recommends.
Dental Disease: Sugar can cause dental disease in dogs, too. Dr. Ireifej recommends enzymatic dental chews and toothbrushing.
If you think your dog may have diabetes or is obese, consult your vet for interventions.
If pineapple causes more harm than good, it’s best to avoid it — it’s not a necessary part of a dog’s diet. But if your pup enjoys it and doesn’t experience any adverse side effects, a little can be a tasty (and healthy) treat.
Never give a dog the commercially available liquid form of gabapentin made for humans. This preparation contains xylitol, the sweetener that's commonly used to sweeten sugar-free gum. Xylitol is extremely toxic, even deadly, for dogs.
Gabapentin is a medication that veterinarians are prescribing with increasing frequency, sometimes alone but more commonly in combination with other medications, for the management of pain in dogs. It’s also increasingly prescribed in combination with other medications for canine anxiety. Why has it become so popular? I’ll get to that, but first we have to discuss pain.
Why Dog Pain Relief is a Priority
Pain management has become an integral aspect of health care in both human and veterinary medicine. If you’ve ever been hospitalized or had surgery, you will be familiar with the frequent question, “How’s your pain? Rate it on a scale from zero to 10.” So you try to pick a number, again and again, throughout the time you are hospitalized.
It turns out there is a very compelling reason for this. Pain is not our friend. It hurts. But the significance goes much deeper than that. Left uncontrolled, pain causes not only physical damage but also emotional and psychological damage. It delays healing and negatively impacts the immune system. In humans and nonhuman animals alike, it frequently results in harmful, unwanted behaviors like self-trauma, aggression, or withdrawal from the joys of life.
You’ve heard medical professionals say it’s important to stay ahead of the pain. There’s a strong reason for this as well. Untreated pain makes your pain receptors increasingly sensitive, which results in increasingly worsening pain. This is called “wind-up” pain, and it becomes more difficult to control.
We, veterinarians, work hard to prevent pain. When this is not possible, we work even harder to relieve it. This has become easier over the years with the ongoing advancements in science, medical knowledge, and extrapolation from discoveries made in human medicine. Veterinarians now have a whole array of medications and other therapeutics at their disposal for managing pain.
Chronic pain, something that is not expected to go away, is particularly challenging for us. It must be managed, often for the remainder of the dog’s life. For this type of pain, “polypharmacy” (multiple medications) and a multi-modal (more than one treatment modality) approach are usually most effective.
To manage chronic pain, we usually employ prescription medications, as well as safe and potentially effective “nutraceuticals” –nutritional supplements that have positive effects for a medical condition. There are increasing numbers of veterinarians who use Chinese and herbal medicine as complementary therapies to treat pain. Modalities like acupuncture, laser therapy, therapeutic ultrasound, physical therapy, and rehabilitation are all readily available to dog owners in most areas. An increasing number of dog owners now use various forms of cannabidiol (CBD) to treat their dog’s pain.
Pain is a highly personal experience. How one patient perceives pain may be completely different from another. Some have higher tolerances than others. One medication or therapy may work wonders for one patient and do nothing for another. This makes it crucial for owners to be observant, monitor their dogs closely for response to therapy, report accurately back to their veterinarians, and be open to recommended changes in the prescribed pain protocol.
What Does Gabapentin do for Dogs?
The addition of gabapentin to a dog’s anti-anxiety medication may improve its effect without an increase of its dosage.
Gabapentin has gained popularity in leaps and bounds (hey! that’s what we’re going for: leaping and bounding dogs!) for its potential contribution to pain management in veterinary medicine. But this isn’t what it was initially developed to treat.
Pharmaceutically, gabapentin is classified as an anticonvulsant, or an anti-seizure medication. It works by blocking the transmission of certain signals in the central nervous system that results in seizures. Then researchers learned that some of these same transmitters are involved in the biochemical cascade involved in pain perception, and doctors began exploring its use for pain management.
Today, gabapentin is best known and respected for its ability to manage a specific form of pain called neuropathic pain. Neuropathic pain comes from damaged nerves, either deep in the brain and spinal cord or in the peripheral nerves, which are the ones that extend outward from the brain and spinal cord. It is different from the pain that is transmitted along healthy nerves from damaged tissue.Examples of neuropathic pain include neck and back pain from bulging discs, pinched nerves, tumors of a nerve or tumors pressing on nerves; some cancers; and dental pain.
A perfect example of neuropathic pain in humans is fibromyalgia. You’ve probably seen the commercials for Lyrica, a treatment for this chronic, debilitating, painful nerve disorder. Lyrica is pregabalin, an analog of gabapentin. (By the way, pregabalin is used in dogs as well, so if your dog’s current pain protocol includes gabapentin but isn’t working well enough, ask your veterinarian about pregabalin.)
How Gabapentin is Used to Manage Pain in Dogs
Although gabapentin is primarily thought to work best for conditions with neuropathic pain, it is most commonly used as an adjunctive or “add-on” medication in the polypharmacy approach to managing any chronic pain. It is rarely used alone, as the sole medication for pain, even in neuropathic conditions like neck and back pain.
Non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDs) are, and likely always will be, the first-line choice in veterinary pain management. But gabapentin is being added more frequently when an NSAID alone isn’t helping enough. Gabapentin is so safe it can be added to virtually any of the drugs currently used for pain management in dogs. There is a recent study that shows gabapentin has a synergistic effect, which means when it’s used in combination with another drug, such as the opioid pain-reliever tramadol, the effect of both drugs are enhanced.
When adding gabapentin to a current pain protocol, you may see some effect within 24 hours, but you won’t see the maximal effect for seven to 10 days. For this reason, dosage adjustments are usually made only every couple of weeks. Be patient. Gabapentin has the potential to add much value to your dog’s current pain-management plan.
Additionally, adding gabapentin, which has minimal side effects, sometimes allows for dosage reduction of other medications like NSAIDs, which do have potentially dangerous side effects, especially with long-term use. This is a huge plus for both your dog and your veterinarian, who took an oath to “do no harm.”
What are the side effects? Nothing much. There is the potential for mild sedation and muscular weakness, which increases with higher dosages. This side effect is usually minimal at the dosages typically prescribed for pain. Veterinarians actually take advantage of this side effect by using higher dosages of gabapentin in combination with other sedative drugs like trazadone to enhance the calming effect for anxious or aggressive patients in the veterinary clinic setting.
Side Effects of Gabapentin for Dogs
Gabapentin has a huge safety margin in dogs. It won’t hurt your dog’s kidneys or liver and is even safe to use with CBD products, although the mild sedative effect of both products may be enhanced.
There are some important precautions of gabapentin for dogs, however:
First and foremost, do not use the commercially available liquid form of gabapentin made for humans. This preparation contains xylitol, the sweetener that’s commonly used to sweeten sugar-free gum. Xylitol is extremely toxic, even deadly, for dogs.
Wait before giving gabapentin after antacids. If you regularly give your dog an antacid like Pepcid or Prilosec, you must wait at least two hours after giving the antacid before giving gabapentin, as the antacid decreases absorption of gabapentin from the stomach.
Never stop gabapentin cold turkey if your dog has been on it for a while. This could result in rebound pain, which is similar to wind-up pain, in that it’s pain that’s worse than ever. For this reason, always wean your dog off gabapentin gradually.
Is Gabapentin Safe for Dogs?
Odin was prescribed gabapentin as an adjunct to a non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drug (NSAID) to treat pain from a chronic eye condition. After the problematic eye was removed, gabapentin was given post-surgically and then tapered off.
As you can probably tell, I am a huge fan of gabapentin for dogs. It helps many of my patients with their pain, it’s safe, and it’s not expensive. I prescribe it most frequently as part of my polypharmacy approach to managing chronically painful conditions like osteoarthritis and cancer. I prescribe it for dental pain. It works wonders for neck and back pain.
While gabapentin is not currently used heavily for post-operative pain as its efficacy in that realm has been questionable, I’m excited right now as there is a study under way to assess its efficacy pre-emptively (before the pain) for dogs undergoing surgery. Many veterinarians already prescribe it for their surgical patients to be started before the procedure, because they have so much faith in it.
Gabapentin is extremely safe for dogs, and it has the potential to alleviate pain for our dogs and improve their quality and enjoyment of life. If you’ve been wondering why so many veterinarians are prescribing this medication more and more, there’s your answer. We see results, plain and simple.
Gabapentin for Anxiety
Gabapentin does not have a direct anxiolytic (anti-anxiety) effect, limiting its usefulness for treating the chronically stressed, anxious dog as a stand-alone drug. However, as with its synergistic use alongside pain medications, it is sometimes prescribed in combination with Prozac (fluoxetine, a selective serotonin reputable inhibitor [SSRI]) or Clomicalm (clomipramine, a tricyclic antidepressant [TCA]) for persistent cases of generalized anxiety, panic disorders, compulsive disorders, and true separation anxiety.
The goal when adding gabapentin in these instances is to help the dog relax in the face of his stressors, as you try to help him through his issues with appropriate desensitization and behavior modification exercises. This is particularly useful in cases where the dog is already receiving the maximum dose of anti-anxiety medication, with less than the desired effect.
It’s important to note that medication alone is not likely to relieve anxiety for your dog unless paired with the above-mentioned desensitization and behavior-modification exercises. These exercises can be prescribed by your veterinarian or a veterinary behavior specialist.
Gabapentin’s sedative effect at higher dosages can be used on an as needed basis to help dogs relax and get through specific situations that cause undue stress for them. Examples of this type of situational anxiety are veterinary visits, grooming appointments, long car rides, thunderstorms and fireworks.
As our review of the Whistle Go Explore and Fitbark GPS activity/tracking collars (“Helping You Keep Track,” WDJ December 2020) went to press, we spotted an online ad for the Fi Smart Dog Collar (pronounced “Fie” as in “WiFi”) and decided to review it, too.
We bought and began testing Fi’s Series 1 collar in November 2020 – just before Fi released a Series 2 collar. Argh! Fi says the Series 2 offers a longer battery life, reinforced hardware (to address reports by Series 1 users of D-ring failures), and an upgraded antenna for improved tracking in remote locations.
Having purchased the Series 1 collar, and with our review of its major competitors already in print, we asked Fi if they’d send us a Series 2 for review. They agreed, but reported that strong orders for the product led to a fulfillment delay. Thus, we weren’t able to get our hands on a Series 2 in time for this review. What follows is our review of a Series 1 collar, along with reports of Series 2 improvements from consumers in a Fi user’s group on Facebook, as well as from Fi.
THE FI SMART COLLAR GPS ACTIVITY TRACKER AT A GLANCE
Product Name
Maker’s Website
WDJ Rating
Price
Monthly Fee
Guarantee
Charging
Comments, Pros, Cons
Fi smart collar
tryfi.com
Rating: 3 Paws (out of 4)
”A good product with one or two significant flaws.”
$149 from Fi
Not available from Amazon
Subscription costs: $99/year
30-day free trial for tracking; afterward, a subscription is needed.
Charges via a small base unit.
Charge for “homebody dogs” said to last as long as 3 months. In our test, it took 7 weeks of twice-daily dog walks plus occasional other adventures to draw just 60% of the battery’s charge.
Things we like: The battery life is impressive. The 30-day free trial and ability to use the collar to track physical activity even without a GPS subscription are nice features. We enjoyed the ability to see the specific route traveled during a walk (similar to human fitness apps). The social media community and ranking features of the app are a nice touch.
Things we dislike: Reporting occasional car rides as walks is a frustrating issue we hope Fi finds a way to fix. The size of the device means it’s likely too big for many toy breeds. The device can only be used with Fi-compatible collars.
HOW FI WORKS
Most of the time, the Fi gathers location information via Bluetooth from the included base unit or from a connected mobile device, rather than constantly searching for GPS points, which rapidly consumes the battery charge. When the “lost-dog” mode is engaged, Fi uses three constellations of satellites combined with AT&T’s LTE-M network coverage to triangulate position and send data to the user via a mobile-device app.
The Fi app reports the distance traveled, steps taken by your dog, and time take to walk your dog.
DESIGN AND PRICING
While the previously reviewed Whistle Go Explore and FitBark GPS trackers are designed to attach to a dog’s existing collar, the Fi Smart Collar is built into a custom collar. The tracking device itself can be removed from this collar, but it can be used only on Fi-compatible collars. Overall, the Fi is sleeker than the boxy Whistle and FitBark trackers.
The tracking device is about the size of a Matchbox toy car and is made of brushed steel and black plastic. A thin stripe in the middle functions as a light bar that’s controlled by the app. The Fi Smart Collar comes in four sizes (S, M, L, and XL); the smallest Fi fits a neck circumference as small as 111/2 inches (and is not recommended for tiny breeds).
The Fi Smart Collar sells for $149. GPS tracking is free for the first 30 days; after that, GPS service plans start at $99 for one year with minor discounts on multi-year plans. Unlike the other devices we tested, Fi will record and report the dog’s physical activity (not location) without a paid service plan.
SET UP
To use the collar, download the Fi app, create a profile for your dog, and designate his or her “safe zones.” Unique to Fi is the use of a small base unit that doubles as a charger and connects to the tracker using Bluetooth Low Energy (BLE) technology. The advantage, says a Fi representative, is that when the tracker is connected to a base unit or associated mobile device, it doesn’t need to access GPS location data via the tracker, which improves overall battery performance. A reported improvement to the Series 2 collar is WiFi integration, said to offer longer battery life when away from the base or mobile device, better signal coverage, and faster, more reliable escape detection.
We like how the tracking unit magnetically attaches to the base/charger, and the tracker charges quickly. Be sure to have a back-up collar with ID tags on hand when charging the Fi Smart Collar since the all-in-one device must be removed, leaving the dog without a collar.
BATTERY LIFE
Fi estimates a fully charged battery will last up to three months for dogs who are always home, up to two months on dogs who leave the house for daily neighborhood walks, and up to three weeks on especially active dogs who spend a lot of time away from home in situations where the collar might not maintain a reliable Bluetooth connection to the base unit or owner’s mobile device.
Our tests confirm that these estimates are not overstated. When test-dog Saber stayed home during the workweek but joined me on twice-daily walks and occasional weekend hiking excursions, the Fi still had more than 40 percent of its battery charge after seven weeks. Impressive! And the WiFi integration on the Series 2 collar is said to produce even better overall battery life.
Fi claims the battery will last for up to two days in “lost dog mode,” where it’s relying on GPS to refresh the dog’s location every minute. This is important, as any tracker is useless with a dead battery. However, “up to two days” means when starting with a fully charged battery. When using any tracking device on a canine escape artist, closely monitor the battery to keep it fully charged.
WATER RESISTANCE AND DURABILITY
The Fi Smart Collar is waterproof and saltwater spray resistant. It’s also designed with an armored aluminum face plate and reinforced internal metal armor to help protect against gnashing teeth during bitey-face play.
APPLICATION REPORTING
The Fi app uses an algorithm to measure steps taken as well as miles traveled. In our test, Saber’s reported step count was consistently close to double that of my steps, as reported by my FitBit.
Activity is reported in three categories: Time spent and steps taken in a designated safe zone; time spent, steps taken, and distance traveled on a walk; and time spent and steps taken during play. Activities are reported chronologically throughout the day, with a map showing the activity’s location – including the full route taken on a walk, similar to exercise apps such as RunKeeper or MapMyRun.
The Fi app also offers fun community features such as photo sharing with other Fi users, as well as activity rankings including overall, by breed, and within your state and city. I’ll admit that when I set out to walk twice a day, it was fun to watch Saber’s rank climb to the top 15% of all Fi-wearing dogs.
ACCURACY/RELIABILITY
We simulated a lost dog scenario by asking a neighbor to take Saber on a walk. I watched Saber leave and waited for notification that he’d left the safe zone – which took a full three minutes. Fi claims on its website that it provides “the fastest, most accurate way to be notified when your dog escapes.” We found it to be faster than the FitBark, but not nearly as fast as the Whistle Go Explore, which prompted an alert on the phone app within one minute of Saber’s “escape.”
Escape detection is said to be another area of improvement with the Series 2 Fi Smart Collar. Note that location tracking may be slower in landscapes that are densely built up, as well as remote areas with limited cellular coverage.
Once I received an alert that Saber had left a “safe zone” I activated the Fi’s “lost dog” mode, triggering GPS-based location updates every 60 seconds. Its location information was extremely accurate. I easily found Saber strolling with my neighbor about two blocks away from home.
One frustrating issue is the frequency with which Fi registers car rides as walks. Saber might be fast, but he definitely never walks at 65 miles per hour! Fi’s tech support advised keeping the app open in the background throughout the day to reduce these inaccurate reports. It definitely helped, but it also appeared to draw a significant amount of my phone’s battery. Fi is aware of this issue and says it’s working to resolve this with future app updates.
FINAL APPRAISAL
No technology is perfect, which is why no GPS tracker should be a substitute for good fences and training a solid recall. Whereas the Whistle and FitBark products we reviewed combine GPS tracking capabilities with a variety of health and activity insights, Fi says its tracker is designed first and foremost to be a lost-dog device that gives owners the best chance of being reunited with their dogs. Based on battery life alone, this claim feels solid – since no GPS tracker can overcome a prematurely dead battery.
Photo courtesy of Texas A&M CVMBS Communications: A Texas A&M research team travels to the homes of humans with COVID-19 infections, to collect samples from household pets, including swabs from the nose, mouth, rectum, and fur, and a small blood sample.
Just over a year ago, the first article I ever had to write that mentioned COVID-19 was published in this space. It seems like forever ago, but at the time, dog owners everywhere were panicking at the news that COVID had been found in the pet dog belonging to a human COVID patient in Hong Kong. For a minute or two, there were widely shared reports of dogs and other pets being abandoned in the streets of China.
Fortunately for dogs and the billions of people who live with dogs – not to mention the millions of people who work with dogs (boarding, training, daycare, grooming, walking, veterinary staff, SAR and protection dog handlers, rescue volunteers, etc., etc.) – it developed that the virus that has turned our lives upside-down can infect the pets who live with infected humans, but the infection doesn’t seem to adversely affect them. And there haven’t been any documented cases of COVID-infected pets causing infections in their owners.
However, thanks to ongoing studies being carried out by researchers at Texas A&M University’s College of Veterinary Medicine & Biomedical Sciences (CVMBS), there is growing evidence to support the fact that emerging and increasingly dangerous variants of the virus can not only infect the pets living with human COVID patients who were infected with those variants, they may actually be correlated with myocarditis in some infected pets. Myocarditis is an inflammation of the heart tissue that, in serious cases, can cause heart failure.
According to a March 19, 2021 report in the journal Science, 11 pets (eight cats and three dogs) who had been admitted to animal hospitals in the United Kingdom between December 2020 and February2021 and found to be suffering from myocarditis were found to be infected with the strain of COVID-19 referred to as the United Kingdom variant (B.1.1.7). According to Science: “None of the animals had a previous history of heart disease, yet all had come down with symptoms ranging from lethargy and loss of appetite to rapid breathing and fainting. Lab tests revealed cardiac abnormalities, including irregular heartbeats and fluid in the lungs, all symptoms seen in human cases of COVID-19.
“Seven of the animals got polymerase chain reaction tests, and three came back positive for SARS-CoV-2—all with the B.1.1.7 variant…. SARS-CoV-2 antibody tests on four of the other animals picked up evidence that two of them had been infected with the virus.”
Bringing this news closer to home, last week, researchers in Texas reported that they, too, have found pets who were infected with the B.1.1.7 variant – pets who lived with humans who were also infected with the U.K. strain of COVID. Happily, the Texas pets showed no sign of disease at the time they were tested, though they began to sneeze a week or so later.
According to Texas A&M Today, B.1.1.7 spreads more easily and quickly than other variants and may be associated with an increased risk of death compared to other forms of SARS-CoV-2. “Since its first detection in humans in the United States in December 2020, this variant has now been confirmed in close to 4,000 people in the U.S. across 50 jurisdictions and is predicted to become the country’s dominant viral strain in the coming months.”
As part of the ongoing “Texas A&M COVID-19 & Pets” study, in which researchers go to the homes of people recently diagnosed with COVID-19 to test their pets, more than 450 animals living in the Brazos County area have been tested since June 2020. All the pets lived in a household where at least one human family member tested positive for COVID-19. The goals of the study are to learn more about transmission of SARS-CoV-2 between people and animals, the potential impact of the virus on animal health, and whether animals may be a reservoir for the virus (maintaining the virus in communities). Of the more than 60 animals confirmed with SARS-CoV-2 infection in the study to date, less than a quarter were reported to show signs of disease around the time of the owner’s diagnosis, most commonly including sneezing, coughing, diarrhea, or being less active than normal. To the research team’s knowledge, all symptomatic animals recovered without any need for veterinary care.
But given the ability of the Coronavirus to evolve and develop new variants, some of which may prove to display an increased ability to spread and/or sicken humans and non-human animals, pet owners need to demonstrate continued care to do anything they can to prevent potential transmission of the virus:
People who are infected with COVID-19 should stay away from pets and other animals, just like they do for other humans, in order to prevent the spread of the virus to animals.
If contact cannot be avoided, people with COVID-19 should wear a mask around pets and wash their hands before and after interacting with them.
If you have been diagnosed or think it’s likely that you were infected with COVID-19 and your pet is showing signs of myocarditis or other illness, talk to your veterinarian, who can assess your pet for common illnesses before looking into possible SARS-CoV-2 infection.
A terrific adult dog is worth her weight in gold for a puppy playdate; she can be your partner in instilling a sense of order and manners in an otherwise "Lord of the Flies" gathering! The author's German Shepherd loves to come out and lead good chase games, knock a full-of-herself pup down a peg, pick a favorite to play with, and then retire inside: "My work here is done."
If there’s one thing that can serve as the magic elixir of puppyhood, it’s the puppy playdate. Half an hour spent wrestling and chasing with the right canine friends, a couple times a week, will have an enormous payoff in both the short and long term. However, making sure these critical experiences are positive takes some forethought. Don’t blow it, because a bad experience is just as formative as a good one.
YOU’RE NOT OFF-DUTY
Playdate Rule #1 is that the humans are very much on duty at all times. While it’s true that this activity will buy you some time off, that only happens afterward, when your pup crashes on the couch back at home for two hours. During the playdate itself, you’ll need to be switched on.
If your plan is to let the puppies “work it out themselves,” you’re better off skipping the experience, because it could backfire completely. Instead, be ready to help your pup navigate this new situation. Here’s how:
* The first minutes are key! Be ready to focus on your dog the instant you arrive – even though your manners will be telling you to go over and greet the humans. Here’s the perfect scenario: You wave to the humans as they call their dogs away from the gate, so that your pup can enter and get the lay of the land before interacting. Once your pup is happily integrated into play, you can relax and chat. But keep your eyes on your dog!
* Be a keen observer. Ideally, you’ll see some loose, waggy bodies, a play-bow, and reciprocal action where the chaser becomes the chasee, and the top wrestler takes a turn on the bottom. In contrast, stiff bodies and cornered dogs mean it’s time for you to jump in to help.
* Great doggy play can look a little scary to the uninitiated! If two pups are interacting in a way that concerns you, gently take the pups apart and give them a moment to re-group. Then let go. Do they both happily seek each other out, or does one run for the hills? If they both keep choosing each other, you can feel more confident it’s all good.
* Determine if pups are happily engaging or looking like they want to go home. If a pup seems overwhelmed, step in! If you can’t turn things around in 15 minutes, call it a day and try again later.
Playdates Are Worth The Effort
A great playdate can be a godsend for humans dealing with an active, mouthy pup who can’t seem to focus. Just like recess at school, allowing a little one to expend energy in an acceptable way helps her to then be able to listen and learn. A vigorous puppy playdate can make a furry “baby alligator” much more pleasant to be around, especially for families with young children at home (since kids are often the ones that get painfully mouthed by pups).
Those short-term gains feel huge at the time, but the truly most important playdate outcomes are the long-term ones. A young pup who has regular positive playdates with a handful of different friends, ideally in a variety of settings, is set up to be a more confident, safer dog forever. His repertoire of doggy communication skills can help him develop into a canine diplomat, easily diffusing tension and avoiding fights. Also, playing with other pups will help him develop the critical “bite inhibition” that keeps him from biting hard later in life. Mouthing is a huge part of doggy play, but pups who bite too hard discover their playmates don’t like it – so they learn to finely calibrate the pressure of their jaws.
When playdates involve a variety of other pups, locations, and humans, a puppy’s worldexpands. The pup learns to anticipate good things in association with a new place or a stranger. If playdates involve a quick car ride, even better – one more positive link to a new experience. Finally, hosting playdates at home teaches a pup that it’s great fun to have people and dogs over. People with pandemic pups have to work extra hard at this, or they’ll find their dogs are stunned when guests finally start coming over.
ACTIVELY INTERVENE
If you are seeing worrisome signals, it’s time to step in and help. Your big tools are motion, redirection, and training:
* WALK! Lead a fun parade around the perimeter. Clap your hands, call all the pups, and start a group hike. Dogs who were, just moments earlier, heading toward a too-intense interaction can suddenly be very companionable as they move together in the same direction – no longer intensely focused on each other but instead discovering new things to smell together.
I sometimes spend the entire first half hour of my puppy socialization classes walking half a dozen puppies around the perimeter of the yard. After that, they’ve had a chance to size each other up, they feel more confident in each others’ presence, and they’ve burned off a bit of energy. They’re ready to play.
* REDIRECT! Redirect any undesired play into something better. Introduce new elements – a ball to chase, a squeaky toy, a baby pool – to distract pups and lead them into different behaviors. A quick, happy interruption of a particular twosome can work wonders.
Mind you, we’re not “correcting” anything. We’re not using scary voices and big “No’s” with pups who are already perhaps a little confused and overwhelmed. Instead, we confidently, cheerily draw them to a new path.
Occasionally ask the pups for a basic exercise, such as sit. This breaks up the play and resets the puppies’ attention.
* ASK FOR SITS! Do some training. Call the pups, and reward them for some quick sits, spins, or touches before sending them back to play. It’s a great idea to do this a handful of times during every playdate, but especially when things seem to be veering away from positive play.
It can be reassuring to a nervous dog, and a solid reminder for a confident dog, that listening to you is the most reliable route to the best things in life. If the playdate has felt a little chaotic or confusing to a young pup, a predictable little training moment can help settle him.
Note: At first, dogs may not take treats well in a group. Use more humans if necessary, and/or hold your hands far apart as you reward different dogs simultaneously. Very quickly, they learn that each pup will indeed get his or her fair share, and sitting nicely without grabbing is the fastest path to the treat.
* Know when to use toys – and when not to. If play seems a notch too intense, it sometimes helps to incorporate a toy. It provides just a bit of distance and a spot for teeth that’s not painful. However, many dogs need to be taught how to use toys with their friends. Once you help get them going by dangling, tugging, and throwing, it is darling to watch them prance a toy near a friend, luring them into the new game.
One thing to watch for, though, is that every now and then there’s a young pup whose natural resource-guarding instincts start kicking in around toys. In that case, best to pop the item(s) in question out of sight.
* Use smart yard setup. A private, fenced yard is the ideal puppy playdate setting. It allows you to control which dogs make the guest list and to minimize health risks. (Much-used public areas are more likely to have yucky things like coccidia or giardia lurking in the grass.)
There are many ways to make your space more conducive to good play. A big flat empty square spells trouble! If one pup feels there’s nowhere to hide, and no place to catch his breath, he may decide he has no choice but to stand his ground fiercely, thus creating unnecessary stress.
If you’re lucky enough to have a yard with lots of (sturdy!) bushes and trees, that’s great. But even if not, simply adding some low tables, benches, planters, and an elevated dog bed can help create a great dynamic. Pups need a place to take temporary refuge from the action. It’s okay if your puppy runs to hide under the bench – as long as pretty soon you see her popping her head out, eager to get back in the game.
In addition to providing those key resting spots, the extra elements allow a pup, who otherwise might have been intimidated into a corner, to lead a very fun over-and-under-and-around game of chase. The more familiar the dogs get with the layout of a yard with all sorts of ins and outs, the more fun – and enriching – those chase games become.
* Be selective about the guest list. When you give your dog time with all kinds of dogs (chasers and wrestlers, the pointy-eared, and the floppy-eared), they become fluent in various kinds of play and communication. That works as an inoculation against a future fear-driven freak-out resulting from an inter-canine misunderstanding. As you try to expand your list of playmates, however, you’ll want to consider size and age. With too big of a discrepancy, you can have unintentional injuries.
Keeping a leash on a bigger or more experienced pup at first can help give a smaller or younger dog a chance to size up the situation and communicate with the big pup without being overwhelmed. But the sooner leashes can safely be off, the better, because they do alter behavior and sometimes add unhelpful frustration.
If there is a big size discrepancy between two dogs you’d really like to have as pals, indoor play can be an answer. A 70-lb teenager Lab-mix can sometimes play beautifully with a 15-lb, 3-month-old in the family room, where they’ll do some mouthy wrestling. That same duo could be dangerous outside in a big yard if the big pup gets up too much speed and bowls the little one over.
The bottom line is that the simplest start is with pups in a close age/size range. But after that, be prepared to watch closely and use your best judgment. Some big dogs are geniuses at playing gently, while plenty of medium-sized dogs have such rough styles that they truly need to “play up” with bigger dogs to be safe. It can’t be said enough: Keen observation is the key.
But What About Puppy Shots?
Puppy playdates are particularly helpful for the under-4-month set – you know, the pups who still have all of their needle-sharp teeth! Of course, that’s also the age where pups are not yet fully immunized against parvovirus and distemper. (The series of vaccinations for these common puppy diseases typically finishes up around 16 weeks.)
The 100% safe option is to have playdates only with fully immunized, dog-friendly dogs, in either your yard or the yard of your responsible friend. That other dog will be older and likely bigger than your puppy, but as long as he or she likes puppies, this can still be a wonderful experience. (Follow the tips in the main article.) However, the most fun playdates at that age are with fellow alligators – er, teething puppies. An adult dog won’t necessarily do all the mouthy wrestling that’s so natural to the under-4-months gang.
Is it safe to allow two not-fully-vaccinated puppies to play together? We covered this topic fully in “Infection vs. Isolation Risks With Your Puppy” (WDJ January 2021). In short, it should be safe to get together with a couple or few very responsible owners who, like you, have carefully managed their puppies’ exposures. Today, we know that failing to properly socialize your intelligently managed puppy in those first few critical months is a bigger risk than that of disease.
HOW LONG SHOULD A PLAYDATE BE?
If you’re trying to get the biggest bang for your buck, a 20-minute playdate is the king. You only have to actively supervise for 20 minutes, but every single one of those is wonderfully stimulating and exhausting for your dog. If that’s all you can squeeze in, don’t worry! If every dog on the planet had a daily 20-minute playdate, the number of anxious/destructive/aggressive dogs would plummet.
The play yard should include a few places where puppies can take a break from the action.
My favorite playdates are longer, though. As sessions stretch past the 20-minute mark, especially if playmates are new to each other, you’ll start to see the best play of all. Confidence grows as the over-abundance of energy subsides. As trust builds between dogs, they start to figure out what they like to do together. Sometimes pups who seemed like a poor match at Minute 20 are playing beautifully at Minute 40.
Conversely, sometimes pups who’ve been doing well suddenly get snappish – and that can mean they’re simply tired, and it’s time to call it a day. The higher the number of pups involved, the more energy is expended by each. The newer the relationships, the more stimulating (and exhausting) the event will be. Here’s the key – I know you can guess it by now: Observe closely, and you’ll know when it’s time to call it quits.
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Source: Netflix. Leverette promotes the use of a plywood box (that he sells through his training business website) for teaching dogs to "station." The very thin cord slip-leads shown on the dog in this publicity still photo are frequently shown on the dogs he's shown handling in the show, too.
A few weeks ago, I started seeing posts on social media from dog trainers I know and admire, warning people about a new show on Netflix called “Canine Intervention.” The show features a dog trainer named Jas Leverette, who says, “I help the dogs that no one else will.”
I watched the first three (of six) episodes that currently appear on Netflix, and my first thought was, “Here we go again.”
The show is scripted and filmed like any reality TV show: Fairly ordinary situations are filmed in a way that dramatizes the problems people are having with their dogs, making the dogs seem incredibly dangerous and destructive, and the trainer is engaged in such a way as to appear near-heroic. He’s shown dispensing pithy pearls of dog-training wisdom, with other brief animal-behavior “facts” appearing in type on screen. Within each hour-long episode, the dog’s problems are improved or resolved.
That’s a good thing, right? We all want people to enjoy their dogs more, and to learn how to train them! So why are so many trainers upset about the show?
There are three major issues: The first is that Leverette is a self-described “balanced trainer.” This has come to mean someone who uses food treats, toys, and praise to reinforce behaviors that they want from a dog – and physical “corrections” to punish unwanted behaviors. Though Leverette also describes his training as “modern,” up-to-date training professionals understand that while force-based training can be effective, there are MANY reasons it’s best avoided:
Not everyone can make appropriate corrections with the timing required to make them effective
Not everyone wants to use force with their dogs
Most significantly, poorly timed or inappropriate corrections are nearly guaranteed to worsen the dog’s behavior and increase his frustration, triggering defensive aggression.
But the usual justifications for the use of force are trotted out. In the first episode, a guy described as a tech-business owner has adopted a pit bull-mix who displays aggression with strangers and visitors to the tech-guy’s home. Leverette says, “If we don’t fix this, this dog is not gonna have a long future…. She won’t have a second chance….” The owner agrees. “This is life or death, pretty much, for her.”
This sort of language triggers educated dog trainers. If an owner is motivated, there are always more ways to train a dog in order to “save” them, without having to resort to pain-inducing tools and methods. And in cases of aggression, it’s well-established that the use of pain, force, and fear in training often worsens aggression.
Don’t get me wrong. Leverette is not shown flagrantly inflicting pain on the dogs; he’s a much more skilled trainer than that. It’s just that his methods call for making the dog do what he wants, when he wants – even if the dog is “flooded” and completely “over threshold,” physiologically aroused past a state of being able to learn. Instead, the dogs simply learn to give up and give in to the force being used.
By the way, it’s never called out or shown explicitly, but when you first see each “problem dog,” they are generally wearing wide collars. When Leverette begins work with them, they are wearing very thin cord-like slip collars. This allows the dogs to be controlled with a lot less overt force; it’s too painful and choking to pull or “act like a fool” (as one owner describes his dog’s problematic behavior) with a narrow cord on your throat. Look carefully and you can see that with these collars, resistance is futile for all but the most defensive dogs; they have to submit. This doesn’t mean they are learning anything, however.
Second, Leverette uses a lot of language that more educated trainers eschew as outdated, meaningless, and immaterial to the science of behavior modification. He issues “commands” instead of talking about “cues” for behavior. Families are described as “packs” and owners are encouraged to be “pack leaders.” Though this sounds kind of cool, exactly how this is accomplished is never well articulated. “Dogs need to trust their pack leader,” Leverette says in the first episode. Um, okay… What, exactly, should an owner do to make their dog trust them? How will we know when a dog trusts us? And how will “trust” make him understand what I want when I cue a behavior? It’s just fuzzy language that sounds good, but can’t actually be described in concrete or useful terms.
In his training, Leverette promotes the use of a plywood platform that he calls a “box.” “In my system, the box is an important training tool to teach new behaviors,” he says in the first episode. “It’s also a first step in establishing the pack leadership that’s necessary,” he says, while the on-screen caption echoes this: “Obedience depends on a dog’s trust and respect for their pack leader.” Again, this is ridiculous. All sorts of animals can be trained to do all sorts of behaviors without much knowledge of their handlers at all. (Want examples? See here, and here, and here. I could do this all day!)
Demystified, the use of Leverett’s box is simply using a platform (a mat can be used just as effectively) as a “station” – a place where the dog is heavily reinforced when he returns to it or remains there. Using a platform, box, mat, or Hula-Hoop on the ground and giving the dog a high rate of high-value rewards will reinforce the behavior of going to and staying in that spot – it has nothing to do with trust or leadership whatsoever. You can train a wild animal or bird to do it, if you want to. (Read this article to see how our Training Editor Pat Miller teaches a dog to “go to your mat.” Or this one, for another perspective.)
My third objection: Anyone who actually trains dogs – including Leverette himself – knows that while a skilled trainer can change a dog’s behavior dramatically in a very short time, it takes much longer for the dog to really learn. The goal is to get them to understand what is desired of their behavior when given specific cues and to motivate them to work for the reinforcements they understand will follow if they performs the desired behavior. In an hour-long TV-show format, even if the passage of time is accurately reflected (as when Leverette takes the dog in the first episode back to his business location for a several-week intensive “board and train” experience), when the dog is returned to the owner much improved, it would appear that the trainer is some sort of miracle worker. Most ethical trainers will tell you: With some instruction, if you worked with your dog for the number of hours each day that I can assure you that the TV dog trainer actually worked with the dog, you’d likely look like a miracle worker, too.
As with that other famous TV dog trainer, it makes for good TV when dogs can be shown displaying dramatic, aggressive-seeming behavior – and then transform in the hands of the trainer into much calmer dogs. But we know that pain (from choke, pinch, or shock collars, including the very thin slip collars that Leverette uses on dogs in the show) can be used to quickly suppress a dog’s dramatic response to whatever stimuli has them worked up – and that pain cannot change how they feel about that stimuli. Without having experienced a change in how they feel about the stimuli that stressed them in the first place, if, back at their owner’s home, there is no painful consequence for responding in a dramatic way, then the behavior will return. Suppressed responses will need to be maintained by continued painful consequences.
In contrast, true behavior modification changes how the dog feels about the stimulus, by initially managing his exposure to it while reinforcing his calm behavior and choice to (eventually) ignore the stimulus. He learns a more desirable (to us) behavior and classical conditioning comes along for the ride, as he (eventually) finds a previously stressful stimulus to be enjoyable as he gets reinforced for his better (more desirable to us) choices.
It’s clear that Leverette is knowledgeable about behavior modification; with the dog who bit several of the owner’s friends (in the first episode), he’s shown doing some desensitization with the dog. But the process isn’t explained in accurate terms; it’s all dumbed down into populist garbage talk (in my opinion); when the captions read at one point, “A dog without a pack leader is a dog who will ignore obedience commands,” I wanted to throw things at the TV! Come ON! But I understand that the way I would put it wouldn’t be simplistic enough for TV: A dog who hasn’t been reinforced with things that are valuable to him for responding to consistent cues with specific behaviors won’t respond to those cues!
I have to say, there were some things about the show that I liked. I am very appreciative that Netflix made a show featuring a person of color (Leverette is African-American); many of his clients, too, are people of color. It appears that he mentors, trains, and hires other POC, and is committed to spiritual practice, his community, and his family. He seems like a genuinely good guy. It also seems like Leverette is much more focused on the practice of dog training – actually teaching cues and specific behaviors to his canine students – than the last popular dog-guy on TV, though he, too, was full of all this pack-leader “dominance” baloney. And YES, all this “dominance” talk is absolute hooey. Read this informative statement about training and “dominance” from the Association of Professional Dog Trainers.
It’s entirely possible that the TV production company that made the show has run roughshod over Leverette, forcing him to reduce his actual training philosophies and techniques into the catchy little sound bites and captions that so offend me and the trainers I know. Whether he believes them or not, though, my fear is that when inexperienced dog owners see and hear dog training reduced to ambiguous statements about “leadership,” all they absorb is that they aren’t being tough enough with their dogs. It’s no different than saying, “You just have to hold your mouth right!”
The problem with “TV trainers” in general is that TV producers want drama – and good dog training is not dramatic! Teaching people to effectively communicate with their dogs, to give the dogs clear direction and quick feedback when they’ve done the “right” thing, may not reduce to a TV-worthy caption or resolve nicely in an hour. But I wish someone in television production would figure out a way to present truly modern dog training in a way that gave viewers basic instruction in easy-to-accomplish, dog-friendly training. It might not garner the kind of ratings that training celebrities’ dogs might earn, but by demystifying the process and breaking it down just like a puppy kindergarten class, it might actually help WAY more dogs and people.
Mast cell tumors (MCTs) are the most common form of malignant skin cancer in dogs, accounting for approximately 7% to 21% of all skin tumors. As there is significant variability in the biological presentation from dog to dog and even from tumor to tumor, this form of canine neoplasia is often referred to as “complicated” and “challenging.”
What are the treatment options for dogs with mast cell tumors?
In the June 2019 issue of Whole Dog Journal, we highlighted a few potential treatment options for dogs with mast cell tumors undergoing research. Two of those treatment options have shown positive progression.
Nanoshell technology and laser ablation for treatment of mast cell tumors
Companion Animal Health continues to explore the use of nanoshell technology and laser ablation for treatment of mast cell tumors. The initial data from one study was presented to the American College of Veterinary Internal Medicine (ACVIM) in 2018 and revealed that 100% of the patients responded to the therapy, with 67% maintaining remission. The treatment combines laser light therapy with gold nanoparticles, which have demonstrated an increased sensitivity to visual and near-infrared light.
The nanoparticles, administered by intravenous injection, congregate in cancerous tissues. The tumor is then irradiated with laser light, causing the electrons within the nanoparticles to enter into an excited state, which releases energy through heat production. This results in an overheating of the regional tissue, with local cell death and destruction following. This non-surgical, one-time treatment option may allow veterinarians to shrink and stop tumor growth in dogs who have masses in regions where surgery may not possible or entirely successful and has limited to no complications.
The FDA recently approved STELFONTA
In November 2020, the U.S. Food and Drug Administration’s Center for Veterinary Medicine (CVM) approved QBiotic’s STELFONTA for the pharmaceutical treatment for all grades of canine non-metastatic mast cell tumors. STELFONTA is a novel veterinary anticancer product containing tigilanol tailgate (also known as EBC‐46), a compound extracted from the seeds of Fontaine picrosperma (commonly known as the brushwood tree) found in the rainforest of North Queensland, Australia. Tigilanol tailgate (TT) triggers the action of enzymes called protein kinase C (PKC); when injected directly into the tumor, it causes a fast but highly localized immune response, disrupting the tumor’s blood supply and thereby inducing tumor cell death. This process leads to the destruction of the tumor mass followed by rapid healing of the resulting wound with minimal scarring.
In a randomized controlled clinical two-phased study involving 123 dogs with cytologically diagnosed MCT, researchers found that a single TT treatment resulted in complete response (tumor completely disappeared) in 75% of cases after 4 weeks (Phase 1). Those dogs who had failed to achieve tumor resolution after 4 weeks were treated with a second dose, and approximately half responded (Phase 2), increasing the overall complete response rate to 87%. Of the treated dogs with complete responses available for follow-up, 100% were still disease-free at the treated tumor site after 8 weeks, and 96% remained disease-free after 12 weeks.
STELFONTA has been approved to treat non-metastatic cutaneous mast cell tumors, and non-metastatic subcutaneous mast cell tumors located at or distal to the elbow or the hock in dogs, and tumor size cannot exceed 10cm. A regimen of corticosteroids and antihistamines/H2 blockers must be given to reduce the risks of severe systemic adverse reactions from mast cell degranulation. Administration of the treatment is by a veterinarian, with a single injection directly into the tumor; a second dose may be given if tumor tissue remains four weeks after the first treatment and the surface of the remaining mass is intact. The most common adverse reactions included wound formation (though this is expected due to the destruction of the tumor), injection site reactions such as mild to moderate pain at the time of injection, reddening/swelling/bruising/thickening of the skin, pain and/or lameness in the treated limb, vomiting, diarrhea, and low albumin levels in the blood. These adverse events were typically low grade, resolved quickly, and usually directly associated with TT’s mode of action. Overall, this innovative treatment has been shown to be well-tolerated, allowing dogs to regain quality of life quickly.
STELFONTA will be launched in the United States by global animal health company Virbac, with availability to veterinary oncologists in the next few months; availability to primary care veterinarians will follow.
On March 2, USA Today published an article about the Seresto collar, originally developed and brought to the market by Bayer Animal Health in 2012. The article highlighted the fact that the United States Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) has received nearly 1,700 reports of animal deaths associated with use of the collar. Worried pet owners have been flooding their veterinarians’ offices with calls about whether to remove their pets’ Seresto collars.
Dog owners should be aware that every effective pesticide will cause adverse effects in some animals; that’s the nature of products that are meant to kill parasites. But there are a number of things you can do to reduce the potential for harm to your dog:
Don’t use any flea- and/or tick-killing or –repelling pesticides unless your dog needs that protection. If you are lucky enough to have never observed fleas in your home or on your dog, you may have no need for flea-control products; don’t buy them unless you need them! In some parts of the country, fleas and/or ticks are a fairly constant threat to pets and pesticides are needed to control and manage infestations. (I put the collars on my dogs when I am planning to hike with them in areas where ticks are numerous, or when my dogs get exposed to a dog with fleas. The rest of the year, they go without!)
Use an integrated pest management (IPM) plan to control persistent flea infestations, so you can use pesticides less frequently in the future. This link provides a good source of information on how to do that.
If the pets in your home repeatedly get infested with fleas, try to identify the source of reinfestations. Indoor/outdoor cats are often the culprits, as they may rest in places frequented by flea-infested mice, rats, squirrels, or chipmunks, picking up fleas there and inadvertently bringing them back home to reproduce.
If you have used a particular flea/tick-control product and your dog had an adverse reaction to that product, note the information in any place that will help remind you to avoid that product or its active ingredients in the future. My granddog Cole had an adverse reaction to Frontline once, vomiting once or twice on the day after the spot-on was applied and exhibiting diarrhea for a day or two after that. About a year later, my son, misremembering which product had caused the adverse response, inadvertently used Frontline on Cole again (after getting fleas from a visit to a friend’s infested home), with the same response. Aghast, he called me to confirm that Frontline was the culprit. Now we both remember, and avoid that product for Cole.
It’s easy to respond if your dog, like Cole, has an acute adverse response to a particular pesticide. (In the case of an adverse response to a spot-on pesticide, you can give your dog a series of baths to help eliminate all of the pesticide that was not yet absorbed into his skin. If your dog has an adverse response after you have put a Seresto collar on him, remove the collar and bathe him well.) But if your dog has chronic health problems, you may need to more deliberately consider whether any of the topical or oral pesticides you have administered to him may be connected to his health problems. We wouldn’t recommend giving dogs with cancer or those who suffer from seizures any pesticides whatsoever. Instead, we’d use whatever IPM tactics were at our disposal to control fleas if necessary, and would avoid tick habitats at all costs.
If you have used a particular pesticide product on your dog with great success (fleas disappeared, walks in areas known to be infested with ticks did not result in any or just a few tick-attachments) and without any adverse events, stick to that pesticide if you need one in the future. Don’t introduce an entirely new pesticide that may pose potential side effects for your dog without a solid reason to do so.
The packaging for a Seresto flea and tick collar.
That last tip is why I’m not going to stop using Seresto and start using some new product. Neither of my dogs has had an adverse response of any kind to the collars. If either one had, I would avoid that product, but I’m not going to expose them to a new pesticide; I have evidence that Seresto is not causing them harm, but I’d be starting from scratch with a new pesticide.
It’s easy to forget what life was like before we had effective, relatively safe, long-lasting pesticides to kill fleas and ticks on our dogs. Many dogs suffered much more than their modern counterparts. Tick-borne diseases kill many dogs annually, and make many more suffer from chronic effects; without the measure of control offered by pesticides, these numbers would be much higher. Also, prior to the modern age of pesticides, it was very common to see dogs whose front teeth were worn to the gums from just chewing their own bodies in an effort to relieve the horrible itching caused by flea bites. While we would like people to use pesticides more sparingly and carefully, we wouldn’t like to go back to having none of these substances at our disposal.
I’ve had a number of older owners book lessons with me lately—more than half a dozen individuals and couples in their 70s and even 80s, all wanting some training help with their new dogs or puppies.
