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Ode to a Senior Dog

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senior dog lying down
He's nearing 15 years old, but his eyes are still clear and his nose nice and damp. ©Whole Dog Journal

Not one but two friends said goodbye to their beloved senior dogs in the past week. I read their tributes to their beautiful dogs and looked through all the photos of the good times they had together, and wiped copious tears away. These deaths make me hyperconscious of the limited time that I have left with my senior dog, Otto.

If he makes it to November, he’ll be 15 years old. His back legs are getting weaker, and though he can still jump into my car (it’s low, and he jumps onto the floor of the back seat, then climbs onto the seat), he sometimes catches a toe when he goes up the two stairs leading to our back deck and then two more that lead to the kitchen door and his back end collapses for a moment. I try not to fuss when I help him up; he always looks embarrassed when this happens.

He doesn’t trot much anymore; his gaits include a fairly gimpy walk and a sort of swinging lope that he uses as a replacement for his formerly jaunty trot – but he also still roars at the sight of any United States postal vehicles and races to and then down the fence line to chase said vehicles out of sight. He can’t resist! But he pays a price for this after the adrenaline wears off; he retires to his sandbox and naps deeply in the cool sand afterward.

He has always been good about being groomed, but he loves being brushed now – even with a Furminator, which I have to use to try to get rid of his still-shedding thick winter coat. But I have to be careful as I brush his sides and flanks, as he has countless egg-shaped lipomas of various sizes now. They don’t cause any pain, but it can’t be good to put any sort of pressure on them!

For almost a year now, he exhibits signs of dementia at night. He pants and paces and seems confused and anxious. A few months ago, at the suggestion of his team of vets, in addition to his arthritis med and gabapentin, we tried a prescription medicine for dementia. Within days, he had fountaining diarrhea, and we had to stop the dementia medicine. Following that, even though I bathed his nether end again and again, he started over-grooming the underside of his tail, where the liquid poop had gotten on it. He caused a nasty little lick granuloma, which required shaving the underside of his tail several times before it finally healed up, weeks later. I know it’s silly and not important, but it makes me so sad to see the skinny section of his now threadbare tail, which is usually a glorious flag, curving up and gently waving high in good spirits.

Until this past year, he’s always had nice breath and clean teeth. He was well past middle age when he needed his first dental, and he’s had several since then – but now, no vet wants to put him under anesthesia for a thorough dental, so his teeth are getting a little cruddy and his breath isn’t as fresh as it used to be. Fortunately, he’s good about tolerating brushing. We’re trying to hold the line!

dogs sitting for treats
Otto doesn’t bother with “sit for treats” anymore; he knows he gets them no matter what. ©Whole Dog Journal

He’s gotten ridiculous about food, hungrily and openly begging for whatever treats he thinks someone might give him, and lurking in the kitchen when we’re cooking. He no longer bothers to “sit” or “down” on cue, but stands, tail wagging and open-mouthed in anticipation when I’m giving cues to the other dogs. He knows he gets treats whenever the other dogs get treats, no “work” is required anymore.

But turn about is fair play; the other dogs have learned his medication schedule. Any time I get the can of wet food out of the refrigerator, they will jump up out of a deep sleep or game of tug to come and sit politely. They know that after I hide Otto’s meds in a “meatball” of pâté and he has taken the meatball from my hand, I will feed them a tiny bit of the tasty food as well.

I thank goodness that 7-month-old Boone doesn’t have high exercise needs. When Woody was his age, I used to have to take daily (sometimes twice daily) long, off-leash walks in our local wildlife area in order to keep him from jumping out of his skin. If we take Otto along, we can’t go very far before he’s tired – and I can’t bear his sad, uncomprehending stare if he doesn’t get to leave the house with me and the other dogs. I try to make it up to Boone with more play on the lawn and more hide-and-seek around the property. Happily, like many “youngest children,” he’s great about entertaining himself by chewing and tugging on our grandson’s swing (we have to make a new seat!) and playing tug all by himself with the leather leash we use to retrieve our grandson’s zip line (watch him do it here!).

It will be wonderful to get a good, full night’s sleep again someday, and to take long, guilt-free hikes with Woody and Boone – but I’m not in a rush. I keep trying to memorize the sweet hayfield aroma of Otto’s thick ruff and the feel of the one silky patch of hair he has on the very top of his head, right between his distinctive half-folded, tufted ears. Though my friends’ tributes to their beloved dogs make my heart hurt, I’m trying not to pre-grieve my vibrant, joyous, mischievous Otto of the past. I’m making every effort to just be here now with my beloved dog, one slightly stinky breath at a time.

Download The Full August 2022 Issue PDF

  • Oh No!  Pup Won't Go?
  • Canine Probiotics
  • Outdoor Dog Kennels
  • The Eyes Have It
  • Be A Whistleblower
  • Resource-Guarding Pup?
  • Pet Sitter Checklist
  • Great Big Dogs
  • Amantadine For Pain
  • Help Your Dog Diet
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How Do You Keep Dogs Cool in the Summer?

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two dogs in water
The Oroville Afterbay is a 4,300-acre reservoir with 17 miles of shoreline – plenty of access in different areas for me and my dogs. The water here is shallower and warmer than in the river, and easy for both my swimming learner puppy (Boone) and my 14 3/4-year-old senior, Otto. © Nancy Kerns | Whole Dog Journal

It’s officially HOT in the northern Sacramento Valley where I live. These are more or less normal temperatures for July in this part of California; it’s even hotter another 60 miles or so farther north in Redding, a town that often makes the news for the day’s record high temperatures in July and August.

Up until just a day or two ago, my dogs have been pretty comfortable. The low 90s are not so bad. This tips over into not-very-fun territory at about 95 degrees. That’s when we head for the water.

Despite the drought, we are fortunate to live close to several bodies of water to cool off in. We don’t much go to Lake Oroville, though we live right below it (yes, close enough to have had to evacuate when “that dam thing” happened some years back). We tend to go to the river that fills the lake, but downstream of the dam, where the water is quite cold (coming, as it does, out of the bottom of the lake), or to the “Lake Oroville Afterbay,” a very large, shallow reservoir that warms a portion of that river water so that it can better be used for agriculture.

Thank goodness, all of my dogs love to swim, even Boone, the newest member of our pack. As I write this, we’ve had our hottest day of the summer – and we’ve made the five-mile trek (in my air-conditioned car) to the Afterbay twice today.

dog laying in sandbox to cool down
Every morning I shovel and rake the sand in Otto’s box so that it’s fluffy and level, and then wet it down thoroughly. I also adjust the angle of the sun umbrella to shade the box from the morning sun. The trees overhead keep it in deep shade throughout the middle of the day, and then I adjust the umbrella for the late afternoon sun. Otto heads out to the box after breakfast and digs his first damp hole of the day to snooze in. © Nancy Kerns | Whole Dog Journal

In this weather, I make sure all the water bowls in my house and office are full of fresh, cool water, and provide buckets, not bowls of water for the dogs to drink outdoors. (The water in even very large bowls gets too warm outdoors in heat like this, even in the shade.)

It’s cooler in the house and cooler yet in my office, but until the thermometer hits 95° F., my senior dog Otto prefers to snooze in his shaded and properly dampened sandbox. Every morning, I shovel and rake it smooth, fluffy, and level, then wet the sand thoroughly. Then Otto gets in and digs the first of his napping holes. As the sun changes its angle over the course of the day, he’ll change positions and dig another hole, and I’ll adjust the umbrella to keep the box in full shade. Today, we hit 95° by 1 pm, and he reluctantly joined me, Boone, and Woody in my office.

When I went into the house at about 2 pm to make myself an iced coffee, I saw our young chickens had taken over Otto’s damp sandbox. Well, that’s fair. They aren’t joining us in my office, I swear!

Though the young dogs will romp and play chase games at the lake or river, I discourage any exercise at home in this heat until the sun sets. Then I’ll throw fetch items and let Woody and Boone play keep-away on our front “lawn” (a pretty motley lawn, kept barely alive with water restrictions due to the drought) – and occasionally spray them with water from the hose. Why dogs who love to swim hate being hosed so much, I don’t know, but when they are wet, they play much more raucously and without getting overheated, so I tell them to tough it out (and give them treats for coming to me, even with the hose in my hand).

dogs on paddleboard
I took my grandson to the Afterbay to freshen up his paddleboarding skills while cooling the dogs down. We never went out farther than waist-deep water so we could also introduce Boone to balancing on the paddleboards. Woody loves paddleboarding, but you have to thoroughly beach your boards when you are taking a break, or he will jump on boards that are “parked” and accidentally go sailing off into the water.
© Nancy Kerns | Whole Dog Journal

All of these water-based solutions work so well for cooling here because it’s a DRY heat. I don’t know how you folks in humid parts of the country survive when it’s so hot.

How are you keeping cool?

Which Dogs Need Raincoats?

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A well-fitting dog raincoat does more than attract compliments on your dog’s fashion sense – even more than reduce wet-dog smell after a walk or romp in the rain. It keeps your dog warm in wet weather. ©AleksandarNakic/Getty Images

A dog raincoat keeps your dog warm in cold, wet weather. If your dog is one of a single-coated breeds (such as Boxers, Dalmatians, Whippets, and Maltese), she lacks the insulating undercoat that helps maintain a comfortable body temperature when it’s cold out, and would benefit from a raincoat. Dogs with double coats (such as Labrador and Golden Retrievers, German Shepherds, and Siberian Huskies) have built-in under-layers to keep them warm, even when their outer coats are wet.

Breeds that might need a dog raincoat

It’s not just a dog’s natural coat that determines whether or not a dog raincoat might be necessary. It can be harder for toy breeds (such as Yorkshire Terriers and Chihuahuas) and short-coated breeds often known for being lean and/or muscular to generate enough heat to stay warm in cold or wet weather. Breeds such as the Whippets, Greyhounds, and the “bully” breeds (including American Pit Bull Terriers and American Staffordshire Terriers) can easily get chilled in damp weather, especially when not engaged in vigorous athletic activity.

Young puppies can also have a harder time staying warm in wet weather. Older dogs living with arthritic joints are more likely to be uncomfortable when cold, and any dog with a compromised immune system is more at risk of illness when exposed to prolonged wet weather.

Benefits of raincoats for short dogs

For short-legged breeds, well-designed dog raincoats offer another advantage: They help keep the undercarriage dry and clean! “Shorties” such as Dachshunds, Corgis, Bassett Hounds and French Bulldogs often have legs so short that their bellies easily come in contact with wet grass. Plus, since their legs don’t come with mud flaps, a brisk romp or walk in the rain can send mud and potentially contaminated runoff splashing up on their undersides. A raincoat that covers the chest and belly will help keep your short-legged friend clean and dry.

What to look for in a dog raincoat

When it comes to picking the right raincoat, one size definitely does not fit all. Here are some things to consider:

  • Do you need to keep your dog dry, or warm and dry? Dog raincoats are available with and without an insulating layer.
  • Water-resistant or water-repellent? Water-resistant fabrics can resist water to some degree, but not entirely. If worn in rain long enough, or in heavy rain, water will soak through. Water-repellant fabrics are typically treated with a coating designed to repel water, making them less penetrable by rain.
  • Does the raincoat perform as expected? We recommend carefully reading product reviews if not making a purchase based on first-hand knowledge or a trusted referral.
  • Look for a raincoat that comes in a wide range of sizes to help ensure a proper fit. A well-fitting raincoat should not restrict your dog’s movement or impede her vision. Hoods are generally more decorative than they are functional. Straps should be wide (so they’re less likely to move around) and not rest in your dog’s “armpits” where they’d be more likely to chafe – especially if water leaks in and the dog is damp.
  • “City dogs” on short potty walks have different needs than “country dogs,” who might be more likely to wear the raincoat while romping through wide-open spaces. For the latter, we recommend looking for a raincoat made from a durable material, such as rip-stop nylon.
  • Does the raincoat easily accommodate a leash or, if necessary, a harness, without compromising the coat’s ability to keep the dog dry?
  • How does the raincoat go on the dog? Some styles feature leg holes the dog steps into versus draping over the dog. Fearful dogs, or dogs unfamiliar with wearing clothes, may find it harder to cooperate with leg holes.
  • Dog raincoats secured by Velcro-type closures or quick-release buckles are easier to work with than zippers or snaps — especially on an excited dog waiting for a walk.
  • When asking your dog to wear anything other than their natural coat, a little training can help ensure a positive experience.

When rain is in the forecast, a raincoat can help keep your pup happy, healthy and ready for outdoor adventures— be it around the block, through the park, or on the trails!

How Well Can Dogs See in the Dark?

Dogs can see well in the dark as they see better than us in low light. However, use a flashlight at night because neither humans or dogs see well in complete darkness. ©K_Thalhofer/Getty Images

Cats are notorious for being able to see at night, but what about dogs? How well can dogs see in the dark? Is their night vision better than ours? The answer is yes, dogs can see much better at night than we can for several reasons.

One is the way their eyes glow in the dark when light shines on them. That shiny surface in their eyes is known as the tapetum lucidum: the reflective tissue beneath the retina that causes glowing eyes in pictures or at night. It acts as a mirror to reflect light onto the retina, enabling dogs to see with less light.

Dog’s eyes have many of the same features as ours: a cornea, iris, pupil and lens and retina. The cornea focuses and transmits light through the pupil (controlled by the colored iris) to the lens, which focuses the image further. The image is then sent onto the retina, converted into electrical signals and sent to the brain via the optic nerve.

What helps dogs have night vision?

In addition to the tapetum lucidum, our dog’s eyes have a couple of other things we don’t that help with night vision:

  • Pupil size: Dogs have much larger pupils than humans. The dilation and constriction of the pupil controls the amount of light entering the eye. The larger the pupil, the more light can enter the eye, the greater potential for vision, especially when light is limited.
  • Rods: Most domestic mammals, including dogs, have rod-dominated retinas, meaning their eyes are geared toward seeing at night (as opposed to cones, which help with daytime vision). We humans also have more rods than cones, but we don’t have nearly as many as dogs do, hence their ability to see better at night.

Do dogs have better night vision than humans?

While dogs can’t see in pitch-black darkness, they do see lots better than we can in low light. But when it’s very dark inside your house or outside (when there is no moonlight, streetlights, or light pollution from other urban lights), your dog will be nearly as blind as you are! It’s helpful to turn on a nightlight when indoors or use a flashlight when walking outdoors when it’s pitch-back, so your canine pal can see better — and do a better job of guiding you!

How to Teach a Dog to Speak

How to teach your dog to speak is a simple matter of teaching them to associate barking with a cue.
How do you teach your dog to bark or to speak on cue? You can do it in just six easy steps by marking the bark with a treat and teaching a verbal cue or hand signal. © gmnicholas/Getty Images

Want to teach your dog to talk? Teaching a dog to “Speak” is a simple trick, especially if your dog is already vocal. It can be helpful to have a dog who will bark on cue, whether as a party trick or to discourage someone’s unwanted approach.

Here’s how to teach a dog to speak:

  1. Trigger the bark. Start with something that already prompts your dog to bark. Ring the doorbell. Ask if she wants to go outside. Jump around and get excited.
  2. Mark the bark. When she barks in response to your trigger, mark with a clicker or verbal marker (such as the word, “Yes!”) immediately after the first woof (to avoid prolonged or frenzied barking), and then feed her a delicious treat. Repeat a half-dozen times (trigger a bark, mark, and reward).
  3. Add a cue. Use a verbal “Speak” cue or hand signal (such as pointing to your mouth, making a “quacking duck” gesture with your hand, or cupping your ear). Use the cue, then trigger the bark. When your dog barks, mark and reward with a tasty treat. Repeat this sequence (cue, trigger, bark, mark, reward) at least a dozen times.
  4. Fade the trigger. When your dog responds to the bark cue followed by the trigger, increase the time between giving the cue and triggering the bark; pause for about five to eight seconds. She should begin to bark after the cue and before you add the trigger. Yay! You’ve now taught your dog how to “speak” on cue!
  5. If, ultimately, you want to teach your dog both a verbal cue and a hand signal, teach one first. After you have successfully faded the trigger, teach the second cue. Give your new cue first (i.e., hand signal) followed by the old cue (verbal). After about a half-dozen repetitions, start adding the five- to eight-second pause, to see if she makes the mental connection between the two cues and starts responding to the new cue before you can use the old one.
  6. If your dog often makes a variety of vocalizations, you can create and associate a different cue to each of her vocabulary “words” using the same process as above.

Note: Be sure to mark and reward your dog for barking only when you’ve asked her to speak, to avoid reinforcing her for demand barking.

Use “talking” buttons to teach your dog to speak and communicate like “I want a treat” or “I want to go outside.” ©Melissa L Kauffman

How to teach a dog to speak with talking buttons

Wait; you wanted your dog to speak real words? Try talking buttons! While science has not confirmed that dogs know what they’re saying when they push buttons, you can have fun with them. You can put a button by the door that says, “Outside!” Press the button before you let your dog outside, and use shaping to show her how to press it herself. Be sure to let her outside each time she presses the button, so she understands that the sound of “Outside!” means you will let her out! Similarly, you can have one near your dog’s toy box that says, “Play!” – but if your dog is particularly food-driven, we’d probably recommend skipping ones that say, “Hungry!” or “Treat!” unless your dog really needs to gain weight!

How Much Playtime Does a Puppy Need?

Puppies need playtime in order to become well socialized.
How much playtime does a puppy need to be well socialized?

In addition to planning for and providing your new pup with all the training and management she needs to learn basic good manners and how to live in your home, responsible owners also engineer and oversee their puppy’s socialization — puppy playtime — in order to help her mature into a dog who is unafraid of and friendly with other dogs. Your dog needs as much puppy playtime as it takes to get her to be unafraid and friendly with people, other dogs and places.

The good news is that most pups come with some prior play experience – they’ve had littermates to play with for the first several weeks of their lives. Your baby dog may need to learn how to play with humans, but unless she was a singleton pup (an only child), she has probably already learned some good canine play skills. (See Sidebar: Teaching Your Play-Deprived Puppy How to Play.)

Play dates are a great idea – either in a well-run puppy kindergarten class or in arranged play dates with appropriate puppy pals. Opportunities for puppy playtime with other puppies will keep your pup’s play skills well-honed, and help her develop other important social skills as she matures.

Keep in mind that even at a very young age, dogs have different play styles and personalities. A robust, energetic, assertive pup will want to play with other resilient, active pups who appreciate her active play style. Conversely, if your puppy is more laid back or shy, she’ll need to play with lower-key pups who won’t overwhelm her. Even with more active youngsters, you might have a “rough-and-tumble” pup versus a “chase-me” pup, and again, these puppies do better when matched with a similar play personality. “Chase-me” pups do not like getting tackled and rolled!

A puppy’s critical socialization period runs from 8 weeks to about 14 weeks, so you don’t want to put off this vital piece of her development during this important time. Failure to socialize her well during this period can result in significant future behavioral challenges. While your veterinarian may caution you against letting your pup interact with other dogs until she’s fully vaccinated, we can find a middle ground; you let her have puppy playtime only with other pups (or friendly, playful adult dogs) that you know are healthy and current on their vaccination schedules.

Is puppy class healthy and safe for socializing puppies?

This is where the “well-run puppy class” comes into play. A good trainer of a puppy class requires proof of current vaccinations for any puppies that come to class and will disinfect thoroughly and regularly. While veterinarians are right to be concerned about potential health risks from inappropriate contact with other dogs, they are often unaware of the risk of behavioral illnesses that can result from lack of puppy socialization – and these are sometimes deadlier than exposure to germs. The health risk from a well-run puppy class is very low. In fact, your puppy is more likely to run into nasty dog germs at many vet hospitals than at a well-run puppy class!

On the other hand, do not take your puppy to dog parks or let her socialize with random canines you meet on the street, nor should she be allowed to investigate feces left by dogs in public places. The health risks are significantly higher in these public environments, and your vet is absolutely right to warn you about these.

How to introduce your puppy to other puppies

Carefully introduce your pup to her new playmates, and only one at a time. Let the two pups approach each other without the encumbrance of leashes, and watch their body language. If either seems reluctant to approach the other, stay close and provide support and protection for the shy pup. If the more confident pup responds appropriately to other’s signals, by backing off a little and keeping things slow and calm, let them proceed. If the cautious pup retreats or looks frightened or intimidated, or if the active pup forges ahead regardless of the shy pup’s signals, intervene and stop the interaction.

If, however, both pups seem perfectly happy to engage, let them go. After a short period of mutually agreeable puppy playtime, do a consent test: Move them six feet apart and then release them. If both romp happily forward and re-engage, you’re good to go; continue to supervise and intervene if at any point either playmate looks less than happy about the interactions. If one takes the re-set as an opportunity to look for something else to do, separate the pups and give the overwhelmed puppy a break.

If you have more puppies waiting to play, introduce each of the pups in pairs, and when they’ve all met each other, gradually increase the number in the playgroup.

If you have a puppy who is a bit of a bully, and if you have an appropriate older adult to act as a nanny dog, you can pair your puppy bully with the older dog, and let the nanny reprimand the puppy and teach him how to tone down his play. Big caveat here: Your older dog must not be overly aggressive with the pup, or you’ll create more problems than you solve. The nanny dog needs to be able briefly and appropriately tell the pup to back off with a mild snarl, and then immediately invite the puppy to play. The message? “We can play – just not like that!”

When you have located appropriate playmates, conducted proper introductions and made sure all are enjoying the interactions, it’s time to sit back and enjoy the puppy playtime festivities. After all, what’s more fun than watching puppies play?

Teaching a Play-Deprived Puppy How to Play

Some unfortunate pups are “singletons” – the only pup in the litter – or were taken away from their littermates very early, perhaps for health or developmental reasons. These pups have likely never learned how to play with other baby dogs. They are likely to be mildly to extremely fearful of their potential canine playmates. This calls for special introduction procedures.

Set up an exercise pen against a wall in a large room (so he can retreat to the back of the pen and the other pup(s) can’t circle around behind him), giving the fearful pup as much distance as possible from any other pups that might approach the pen. The room should be large enough that when he does come out of the pen he has room to move around – you don’t want him to feel cornered or trapped. Put your pup in the pen (stay in the pen with him) and have someone else release one other pup near the pen – ideally a low-key, easygoing playmate.

Watch your pup to see how he reacts to the presence of the other. You are looking for his curiosity to overcome his fear. When he begins to appear curious, let him approach and interact with the puppy through the wires of the pen. (Zoos call this “protected contact.”) After some time passes (this will vary with each pup) and you can see that he’d really like to play with his new friend, have someone restrain the other pup while you open the pen and let yours out. (You don’t want the other pup to come into the pen and trap him there; the pen is his safe space.) Then release the other one and see what happens. If they play, great! If yours is afraid but the other pup responds appropriately by backing off, and your puppy seems reassured by this, let the interaction continue. If the other puppy doesn’t back off, or even if she does and yours still seems very worried, separate them for another session in the pen. (You can also put the other pup in the pen and let yours explore the room.)

Repeat this process until your puppy is clearly comfortable with his playmate and engages happily in play. When this relationship is solid, repeat the process with a different puppy. When he has several playmates he’s quite comfortable with, try larger playgroups. Remember to take it slow. Your puppy will tell you when he’s having a good time, when he’s ready for more, and when he needs to slow down or take a break. Always listen to him.

What Can I Give My Dog for Diarrhea?

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What should you feed a dog with diarrhea? First withhold food for 12 to 24 hours to let the digestive system reset and then try bland and fiber-rich foods like pureed pumpkin, white rice, boiled chicken or yogurt with probiotics. ©Melissa L Kauffman

Diarrhea may be a messy topic, but it’s an unfortunate part of life for humans and dogs alike. Thankfully there are some simple steps you can take at home to alleviate upset stomachs and get your dog’s digestive system back on track.

Common causes of canine diarrhea

Dogs develop diarrhea for any number of reasons. Often, it’s simply due to what veterinarians call “dietary indiscretion” (eating what dogs shouldn’t eat!). A change in diet can cause diarrhea and digestive issues in some dogs. Food allergies can also be a culprit.Diarrhea can also be a result of internal parasites (including worms as well as protozoal parasites such as giardia or coccidia), infection with a virus or a bacteria (such as Salmonella or Campylobacter), illness, and even poisoning. If you’ve ruled out food-related causes of your dog’s diarrhea, visit a veterinarian. A professional will be able to accurately diagnose the issue and prescribe proper treatment. (See “Dog Diarrhea Causes and Remedies“)

What to do if your dog has diarrhea

Many experts recommend witholding food from dogs who are experiencing diarrhea for 12 to 24 hours. A day-long fast often gives dogs’ digestive systems a chance to settle and reset. Fasting should only be attempted with healthy adult dogs, however, as it can be taxing on seniors, and cause low blood sugar in puppies. Small amounts of water should be given throughout the fast as diarrhea can cause dehydration.

What home remedy can I give my dog for diarrhea?

If fasting isn’t an option, there are several simple foods you can give your dog to help ease diarrhea symptoms. Bland and fiber-rich foods are especially effective at helping to ease digestive stress and firm up dogs’ stools. Some common at-home options include:

  • Pureed pumpkin or pumpkin powder
  • Plain white rice
  • Boiled chicken
  • Yogurt with probiotics
  • Potatoes, peeled, boiled, mashed, and cooled

When is dog diarrhea an emergency?

Many cases are mild and will subside with at-home treatment after a day or two. However, diarrhea can signal more serious underlying issues, and in these cases, you should visit your veterinarian as soon as possible. If your dog’s diarrhea isn’t improving with dietary changes, or if he’s showing other signs like lethargy, vomiting, fever, or weakness, and/or has no appetite, it’s likely something else is wrong. The sooner you see a vet, the likelier they’ll be to catch any potential problems which may be causing the diarrhea.

What Colors Can Dogs See?

Blues and yellows are what colors dogs see best, so use this knowledge when asking your dog to choose between objects. ©Melissa L Kauffman

A dog’s eyesight is significantly different from ours, starting with the fact that they are red-green colorblind. What colors do dogs see best? While dogs can see the colors blue and yellow very well, reds and greens fade into yellows and browns. Dogs’ view of the world lacks much of the visual richness that ours has.

Additionally, dogs’ eyesight is also fuzzier; much of the detail we humans see is lost on our canine companions. While we humans strive for 20/20 vision, a dog’s eyes are more like 20/50 vision, which means dogs need to be approximately 20 feet away from something to see it as clearly as we humans see it at a distance of 50 feet.

What does this mean for our interactions with our dogs? It could help explain why their noses are so terrific: because their eyes aren’t! This is one reason why it’s important to let your dog explore the world with her nose sometimes, rather than constantly thwarting her attempts to sniff.

It’s also important if you’re doing any kind of training with dogs that involves asking them to make choices based on color. (See: “Are Canines Cognitive?“)

If you’re teaching color discrimination, you can ask your dog to choose between a blue ball or a yellow one, but don’t expect her to be able to distinguish red or green ones. This could be especially important for service dogs, who are often asked to perform object-selection tasks.

What do dogs see?

Want to be able to see how your dog sees the world? There’s a fun app for your phone called “Dog Vision”.

After you load it you just point your phone at something and it will show you how that thing, or that scene, looks to your dog. Give it a try… it’s a real eye opener!

Why Do Dogs Eat Grass (and Should They Stop?)

It’s common for a dog to eat grass for anything from stomach upset, to liking the taste to boredom. ©Samantha French/EyeEm/Getty Images

If you’ve noticed your dog eating grass, you might be relieved to hear that this is a common dog behavior, and, contrary to conventional wisdom, it is usually not because your dog has an upset stomach.

“But she throws up after she eats grass,” you say. “Doesn’t this mean her tummy is upset?”

Actually, no. Fewer than 25% of dogs who eat grass chuck it up afterward, and only about 10% of grass-eating dogs show signs of illness prior to grazing. So, rather than eating grass because they needed to throw up, most dogs who do throw up probably do it as an incidental after-effect.

So why do dogs eat grass?

Dogs have a natural carnivorous bias, meaning their teeth, digestive systems, and preferences lean toward eating meat. As historical scavengers, though, they also eat vegetable matter. The simplest explanation for grass-eating is that some dogs just like it. It tastes good and they like the sensation of grass in their mouths.

Dogs do need roughage in their diet, and grass can be a good source of fiber. A lack of roughage can be detrimental to your dog’s ability to digest food and eliminate normally, so eating grass may actually be beneficial to the canine digestive system.

Some dogs eat grass and then vomit because of digestive distress. Take your dog to the veterinarian if the distress continues to see if your dog has a medical condition such as gastric reflux, inflammatory bowel disease or pancreatitis. ©Nancy Kerns

Reasons and solutions for grass-eating: How to stop your dog from eating grass

That said, there are some medical explanations for the grass-grazing habits of some dogs. Frequent grass-eating dogs who show indications of digestive distress may have a medical problem such as gastric reflux, inflammatory bowel disease, or pancreatitis. If your dog shows signs of stomach discomfort a prompt visit to your veterinarian is called for to rule out or treat serious medical conditions.

There are also potential behavioral reasons for this behavior. A bored dog may graze on greens for lack of anything better to do. The solution? Increase exercise and provide enrichment alternatives to reduce her desire to mow your lawn. Food-dispensing toys, scent work, “sniff walks,” canine play dates, and cognition games are excellent enrichment activities.

Stress can also lead to grass-guzzling. Chewing is a great stress reliever, and from a dog’s perspective, grass is a chewable stress object, especially absent more appropriate chew options. The solution? Explore ways to reduce her stress and be sure to provide appropriate high-value chew objects. (Sturdy toys stuffed with food and frozen top our list.)

Attention-seeking is another explanation. Your canine pal may offer behaviors to get you to engage in activities with her. If grass-eating successfully prompts you to interact with her, you are reinforcing the behavior and increasing the likelihood she’ll do it more. The solution? Ignore her when she’s munching grass and pay attention to her when she’s engaged in activities you prefer.

When should I stop my dog from eating grass?

The biggest risk to your dog from grass-eating is ingesting lawn chemicals. If you treat your yard (or walk where grass is treated) then you must prevent her from munching on the greens. You could fence off part of your yard that you pave, gravel, or don’t treat so she can have a free-play area. Otherwise, walk her where it’s safe, and/or use treats or toys (play tug!) to reinforce her for keeping her head up when walking on grass.

What should you do when you see someone mistreating their dog?

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dog being dragged by leash
Is there a correct way to approach someone who is mistreating their dog in public?

My 10-year-old grandson is visiting from Boston and we went for a bike ride today at midday, to a local park. We were riding along a path and saw a woman walking ahead of us with a puppy on a leash and a young girl, maybe three or four years old. As we got closer, I could see that the woman was wearing a hands-free leash – one of those commercial products made for people who jog with their dogs, a waist belt with the leash attached to it. And as I got closer yet, I could see that she was essentially pulling the puppy behind her. The pup was on his feet, but was obviously hot and scared and was resisting at every step.

I took my phone off its handlebar mount and took this picture from a distance. I made an assumption – that this person was not going to be interested in dog-training advice or a stranger’s opinion about practically dragging what looked to be a 4-month-old puppy in the middle of a pretty warm day. And if I saw anything worse, I was going to call my friends at the city animal control department. After I took the picture, I called out in my best cheerful voice, “Hi, coming through on bikes!”

The woman immediately stepped to the side of the path and held her hand out to the little girl (presumably her daughter). She smiled as my grandson and I rode slowly by, and I smiled back and said, “What a cute puppy! But he doesn’t look very happy…”

Her smile disappeared immediately. “He’s getting leash trained,” she said firmly. And then added, “Don’t worry, I know what I’m doing.”

Ah, the dilemma of what to do about what we consider to be training that is, at a very minimum, certain to be ineffective and counterproductive – when we see it in public.

In this case, I didn’t stay to talk to the woman. Her response and demeanor were so determined – so not open to further discussion – that I kept pedaling slowly, before stopping 100 yards or so away to see what the woman did next. Just a minute later, she put the pup and little girl into a car and drove out of the park.

My grandson and I biked to a spot nearby, where we put the bikes down and took a quick dip in the river. As we biked home, we talked about the woman and her pup a bit more. I told my grandson, “It’s like seeing some parent do something pretty mean to their kid. You don’t want to say nothing, but you don’t want to make them even madder.”

I also assured him that if the puppy had actually been getting pulled off his feet, or if she had yanked on the leash or hit him, I would have taken some video and called animal control. “Some people just suck,” said my grandson and I agree! How could she not see that dragging the puppy along by force was not going to result in a dog who trusts or even wants to be with her and her daughter. How could that treatment possibly result in a dog who has good feelings about going on a walk with them?

Does anyone have the perfect thing to say to someone in this situation? Does anyone know a course of action that wouldn’t just make matters worse?

The Worst Sound a Dog Owner Can Hear

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close up of foxtails
In the spring, foxtails are soft and bushy. In the summer, they dry out and become sharp and dangerous to our dogs. ©Whole Dog Journal

This is the time of year that all dog owners who live in any of the western states, particularly in any part of California, will freeze in fear when they hear their dog sneeze. If the dog sneezes more than once in a row, they drop whatever they were doing and run to look at the dog. And if the dog sneezes violently again and again, most of us are reaching for their car keys and cell phone simultaneously, looking up the number of the emergency vet.

My California compadres know what I’m talking about: the dreaded foxtail in our dog’s nose.

Foxtail” is the common name for a few species of grass that have fox-tail-shaped reproductive structures. Hordeum murinum and Hordeum marinum (which appear across most of the western U.S.) cause the most harm to dogs (and other animals). In the spring, when grass is green in the west, the foxtail structures are soft and bushy; as spring turns to summer and the grass dries out, the foxtails also dry out and turn brown. And as summer progresses, the foxtails start to fall apart; those previously bushy structures separate into dozens of individual seeds, each topped with a hard, sharp, arrow-like tip and trailing several long, stiff awns. Each awn is covered with microscopic barbs that grow from the awn in a single direction, away from the seed tip. When these awns come into contact with anything, the barbs help propel the seed relentlessly forward.

These structures help the seeds literally bury themselves in the earth, reseeding the plants that will grow tall and grassy again the next spring. But they also bury themselves deep into any clothing, skin, or fur they come into contact with – and if you grasp one by the awn, to pull it out of your clothing, skin, or hair, the awns tend to break off. Even a tiny portion of an awn that’s connected to the seed tip will keep propelling the seed forward

If a dog, walking through the grass, gets one lodged between his toes, the seed will penetrate the skin and start to travel into the dog’s foot and even up into the leg. The discomfort makes most dogs start to lick the place where the seed broke the skin – which pushes the seed further and further into the dog’s flesh.

removing foxtail from dog ear
Veterinarian team removing foxtail from dog’s ear. ©Whole Dog Journal

Dogs also get foxtails in their eyes, where the seeds can burrow back into the eye socket; ears, where the seeds can penetrate the ear drum and even enter the brain; in their genitalia, where the seeds can cause excruciating pain. But most commonly of all, dogs can accidentally sniff foxtail seeds into their noses as they are smelling the ground. And the moment a light-weight, stiff, bristly, awn enters the dog’s nose, you know it, because almost every dog will immediately and violently SNEEZE, again and again. I just read a Facebook post of one of my dog-owning friends, whose dog sneezed so explosively, trying to dislodge a foxtail in her nose, that she broke one of her canine teeth on the floor, and had to be rushed to the vet for not only for removal of the foxtail in her nose, but also, surgical removal of the painfully broken tooth. 

So imagine my horror when, on deadline, sleep-deprived, and working around the clock, I heard my 6-month-old puppy Boone walk into the kitchen this morning, and SNEEZE, SNEEZE, SNEEZE! “Boone, noooooo!” I cried, as I immediately envisioned spending the next 10 hours at an emergency vet’s office (they are all seriously overburdened with patients and understaffed at the moment).

But the gods took pity on me and the best sort of foxtail miracle seemed to occur: It seems that the awn whisked right through Boone’s nose, into his throat, and down his esophagus – the best case scenario. After another minute or two of sneezing and rubbing his nose with his paws, Boone gagged, coughed, and swallowed, and that was that –no more sneezing or rubbing his nose (dogs seem to be able to digest any swallowed awns, thank goodness). Most of the time, foxtail awns that enter the nose end up lodging deep in the folding nasal passages, or stuck in some crevice in the back of the throat, where they can dig into the tissues and travel into the sinuses, the back of the eye, or even the brain. Ack!

Any dog can accidentally sniff a foxtail into his nose during any casual smelling of a field or weeds on the edge of a sidewalk; my son’s dog, a hound-mix named Cole, once inhaled a foxtail within a minute of arriving at my house after a three-hour drive; he started sneezing when I was still hugging my son “Hello”! My son had to put Cole back into his car immediately and head to a vet. An hour and $200 later, they were back, only a little worse for wear, with Cole needing a quiet room to sleep off the sedative he was given for the foxtail removal.

outfox field guard on dog
© Whole Dog Journal

But my point is, while any dog can sniff up a foxtail, some dogs seem more prone to it. Hounds, hunting dogs, and others who use their noses more than the average dog are most at risk, as are (it seems) young dogs, who are still in the habit of enthusiastically and excitedly investigating everything in their world by smelling. Which will explain why, if you happen to drop by my house this summer, you might see a young dog with a mesh bag over his head. No, Boone isn’t being punished, but I’m ordering an Outfox Field Guard for him today. It’s the only tool I am aware of that can keep a sniffy dog safe during foxtail “season.” My nerves just can’t take any more sneezing fits!

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