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Concerns about Seresto Collars, Continued

By
Nancy Kerns
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30
tick chart
Source: cdc.gov/ticks/data-summary/index.html

On March 2, 2021, USA Today published an article about the Seresto collar, originally developed and brought to the market by Bayer Animal Health in 2012 (the product was purchased by Elanco Animal Health in 2020 and has been manufactured by Elanco since then). The article highlighted the fact that the United States Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) had, at that time, received nearly 1,700 reports of animal deaths associated with use of the collar. Worried pet owners began flooding their veterinarians’ offices with calls about whether to remove their pets’ Seresto collars.

On June 15, 2022, the U.S. House of Representatives Committee on Oversight and Reform, Economic and Consumer Policy Subcommittee held a hearing about Seresto collars. Following publication of the USA Today report in 2021, the Subcommittee had been investigating reports of adverse effect incidents and pet deaths potentially related to the Seresto collar. Last week’s hearing, the Subcommittee described, “will examine the EPA’s failure to regulate the Seresto collar as well as Elanco’s refusal to take action to protect pets and their owners from the collar’s harm.” (A link to video of the 3 ½-hour hearing is available here.)

A number of witnesses testified in favor of demands that Elanco voluntarily recall the collar and the EPA cancel the product’s registration. These included owners of dogs who died after wearing the Seresto collar, the Environmental Health Science director of the Center for Biological Diversity (a nonprofit membership organization known for its work protecting endangered species through legal action), and a retired scientist/communications officer who previously worked for the EPA.

Defending Seresto’s efficacy and safety record to the Subcommittee was the President and CEO of Elanco. The company said the rate of complaints is a fraction of the overall sales – which have surpassed 34 million in the past decade – and that the rate has declined over the years. It also said that most incidents are classified as “minor” or “moderate” and that the pet did not suffer “any significant or permanent harm.” A link to Elanco’s complete statement is here.

No representative for the EPA appeared at the hearing, but the EPA submitted a statement (linked here), which explained that, following publication of the USA Today report in 2021, the EPA asked Elanco and Bayer, as the current and former registrants of the Seresto collar, to provide EPA with additional data on reported adverse effects of the collars. This information was received in May 2021, and is being analyzed by EPA, with additional help from the Food & Drug Administration’s Center for Veterinary Medicine (FDA/CVM). According to an excerpt from the EPA’s statement, “With the consultative assistance of FDA, EPA expects to finish its scientific review of incident data and other studies by fall 2022. Upon completing its analysis and assessment, EPA will determine whether these pet collar registrations can still be used safely according to the instructions on the label or if additional safety measures or cancellations are needed for these products.”

Benjamin Disraeli is often quoted, “There are three types of lies – lies, damn lies, and statistics.” Ideally, the adverse event reports for every pesticide and drug would be 100% available to the public to review. Without the ability for independent researchers to analyze these reports – as well as verify sales numbers for pesticide products – it’s hard to know how real the threat to any individual dog might be. We will be looking forward to seeing the EPA’s promised report this fall.

How to minimize your dog’s risk of adverse events

Dog owners need to be keenly aware that every effective pesticide will cause adverse effects in some animals; that’s the nature of products that are meant to kill parasites. There are health risks associated with every single pesticide on the market. Every time you apply a topical pesticide to your dog, or have him injected with a medication or feed him a medication that will kill fleas and ticks, you take the risk that your dog will have an adverse response to that pesticide or medication. We recommend that these pesticides and medications are reserved for use only on healthy dogs when specific need for their use arises and their potential benefits outweigh their potential risks. In our opinion, these should never be used without a pressing need.

What is a pressing need? Exposure to tick-infested environments or a flea infestation that persists beyond immediate and less-harmful removal tactics (such as bathing with a regular detergent [such as Dawn dish soap] and flea-combing). If you don’t walk your dog where there are ticks, and haven’t had any issue with fleas, there is no reason to start using a Seresto collar or administer any other flea- and tick-killing treatment to your dog!

Fleas and ticks also pose real and potentially life-threatening dangers to dogs, so if one or both of these parasites are an actual danger to your dog, you will have to decide whether your dog is healthy enough to risk potential side effects of a treatment. Fortunately, there are a number of things you can do to reduce the potential for harm to your dog from pesticides and flea/tick-killing medications:

  • Use an integrated pest management (IPM) plan to control persistent flea infestations, so you can use pesticides less frequently in the future. This link provides a good source of information on how to do that.
  • If the pets in your home repeatedly get infested with fleas, try to identify the source of reinfestations. Indoor/outdoor cats are often the culprits, as they may rest in places frequented by flea-infested mice, rats, squirrels, or chipmunks, picking up fleas there and inadvertently bringing them back home to reproduce.
  • If you have used a particular flea/tick-control product and your dog had an adverse reaction to that product, note the information in any place that will help remind you to avoid that product or its active ingredients in the future.
  • Take immediate action if you notice any sign of an adverse response to any flea/tick-killing pesticide or medication. If you applied a Seresto collar, remove it and give your a series of baths to help eliminate all of the pesticide that was not yet absorbed into his skin. Same goes if you applied a spot-on topical pesticide; give him a series of baths with a detergent such as Dawn dish soap.
  • If your dog has chronic health problems, such as cancer, seizures, thyroid problems, diabetes, liver or kidney disease, etc., we’d avoid using any topical or oral pesticides. We wouldn’t recommend giving dogs with cancer or those who suffer from seizures any pesticides whatsoever. Instead, we’d use whatever IPM tactics were at our disposal to control fleas if necessary, and would avoid tick habitats at all costs.
  • If you have used a particular pesticide product on your dog with great success (fleas disappeared, walks in areas known to be infested with ticks did not result in any or just a few tick-attachments) and without any adverse events, stick to that pesticide if you need one in the future. Don’t introduce an entirely new pesticide that may pose potential side effects for your dog without a solid reason to do so.
  • If your dog suffers any sort of health problem within a few days or weeks of administering a new pesticide or flea/tick-killing medication, REPORT IT. Use the information at this link: https://www.epa.gov/pesticide-incidents/report-pesticide-exposure-incidents-affecting-pets-or-domestic-animals

Fleas and ticks cause harm, too

It’s easy to forget what life was like before we had effective, relatively safe, long-lasting pesticides to kill fleas and ticks on our dogs. Many dogs suffered much more than their modern counterparts. Tick-borne diseases kill many dogs annually, and make many more suffer from chronic effects; without the measure of control offered by pesticides, these numbers would be much higher. Also, prior to the modern age of pesticides, it was very common to see dogs whose front teeth were worn to the gums from just chewing their own bodies in an effort to relieve the horrible itching caused by flea bites. While we would like people to use pesticides more sparingly and carefully, we wouldn’t like to go back to having none of these substances at our disposal.

tickborne disease chart
Source: cdc.gov/ticks/data-summary/index.html

In recent years, 20,000 to 30,000 confirmed cases of Lyme disease alone (in humans) per year have been reported to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, and that number is growing, as climate change is expanding the geographical range where ticks can survive. More than 50,000 cases of tick-borne diseases (including Lyme as well as anaplasmosis, ehrlichiosis, babesiosis, spotted fever, and tularemia) are reported in humans annually – but guess what? That’s a drop in the bucket compared to the number of cases of tick-borne diseases reported in dogs each year.

According to the Companion Animal Parasite Council, the number of canine Lyme disease cases increased from 245,971 in 2015 to 336,200 in 2019. Increases in the numbers of other tick-borne diseases were also reported, including canine anaplasmosis, up from 117,203 in 2015 to 207,825 in 2019, and canine ehrlichiosis, up from 107,985 in 2015 to 186,075 in 2019.

I’m not adding those statistics in order to promote pesticides – far from it. But as your dog’s owner and protector, you have to weigh the relative risks of the pests and the pesticides, and do whatever you can to protect your dogs from both.

How to Talk to Your Dog

By
Kathy Callahan, CPDT-KA, FDM
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14
how to talk to your dog
If you consistently use the same verbal phrases to explain or indicate to your dog what’s happening around you, he will begin to associate the words with those experiences, enabling him to predict what’s going to happen next and how (or whether) the experience will affect him. This knowledge will help ease any anxiety he may have about things or activities in his environment. For example, “Look, a neighbor!” might be used to signal that the approaching person is a a benign stranger that you won’t be greeting.

I’ve always talked to dogs – as I’m sure you do – engaging them with the usual cues, the names of favorite things and people, and a healthy dose of general chatter. But thanks to a week-long course in canine applied ethology taught by Kim Brophey, CDBC, CPDT-KA, of The Dog Door Behavior Center in Asheville, North Carolina, I’m now making a point to verbally name things in a way that gives the dogs I’m working with a clue about what’s next. The result? A notable decrease in anxiety, skittishness, and reactivity, plus an overall smoothing of household activity.

I know it sounds too simple, but I promise it’s a game-changer: Talk more to your dog! 

THE MR. ROGERS HACK FOR TALKING TO YOUR DOG

“Dogs have the receptive language ability of a toddler.” When I heard Brophey say this in her course, and then go into the science supporting the statement, a lightbulb went on for me. I taught preschool before I pivoted to dogs, and I can tell you that, while most toddlers can’t articulate their thoughts very well, they understand an astounding percentage of what people say to them. 

Note that we make an effort to tell toddlers what’s going on around them. That helps them gain confidence as they begin to see patterns in an otherwise confusing world. Think about the “Mister Rogers’ Neighborhood” show on PBS and that dear man’s predictably reassuring commentary on his actions (“I’m going to go over to the tank and feed the fish now.”).

Guess what? That purposeful narration works for dogs too, and Brophey calls it the “Mr. Rogers Hack.” She drives home the idea that so much of our human environment is utterly foreign to dogs, so they’re constantly having to work hard figuring out what the heck is going on. “Should I be worried? Should I be excited? Will I be interacting with that? Will it be loud? Can I eat it?” Cue the dog’s anxiety, skittishness, arousal, reactivity. 

We can lessen a dog’s load by explaining life as it unfolds, just as Mr. Rogers did.

HOW NARRATION WORKS

This does not mean that we should all begin prattering on to our dogs about, say, global politics. The key is that the oft-repeated words and phrases must be relevant for the dog. When focused on things the dog has feelings about – either negative or positive – the Mr. Rogers Hack gives the dog a clue about what’s coming next, helping him to prepare.

For example, the other day I was walking my three big dogs and we turned a corner to find a construction crew working on the street. There were a handful of men, wearing reflective gear and hard hats, holding big tools, next to a noisy truck. 

If I did nothing in that scenario I’d have a three-dog challenge on my hands: one barker, one slinker, and a highly suggestable 100-lb adolescent. Historically, my approach would have been to 1) switch direction or 2) use cues like “touch,” “look,” and “find it” to pull the dogs’ attention away from the crew and onto something familiar and reassuring as we pass by as quickly as we can. With three of them, though, that’s not always a graceful moment. 

So I used the Mr. Rogers Hack, as I’ve been doing for the past few months. I exclaimed in a cheery voice, “Oh great, they’re fixing it!” My dogs relaxed – no stream of cues or distraction necessary. They were able to casually watch as we loose-leashed our way past the equipment and workers. 

Why did this work? Because I have been consistently using that phrase – “Oh great, they’re fixing it!” – when there are unexpected humans working in unusual places doing strange loud things in weird clothing, and (here’s the key) none of that has affected them in any way.

“They’re fixing it!” allows my dogs’ brains to stop working so hard to figure out every single road/lawn/tree/paint/gutter/gardening/construction crew we come across. Those words help my dogs to categorize this experience because it’s part of a pattern they can recognize. They can now predict what’s next: We’ll continue our walk and that crew won’t impact us at all.

What is Applied Ethology?

Ethology  is simply the study of animal behavior; applied ethology focuses on the behavior of animals in the care of humans. Applied ethology allows a zookeeper to, say, find ways to help a captive cheetah stop pacing unhappily in his enclosure. (“What needs are unmet? How can we change the environment to fix that?”)

In her book, her courses, and her work at The Dog Door, Kim Brophey brings that applied ethology approach to our pet dogs, who are – even though we don’t like to think about it this way – in captivity. When it comes to undesired behavior – barking, digging, reactivity – dog trainers usually jump into changing that behavior. In contrast, Brophey’s model calls for slowing down that jump and instead spending time on “Why are they doing that behavior.” 

If it sounds like that would lead to frustrated dog owners waiting for a solution, think again. Brophey’s process often results in the owner gaining not only a new understanding of the dog’s behavior but also many deceptively simple “hacks” (like the Mr. Rogers one profiled here) that can have a profound impact on the dog/owner relationship. 

To learn more, check out “The Dog’s Truth,” Brophey’s engaging one-hour course on canine applied ethology; see the link on her website at familydogmediation.com.

SAMPLE VOCABULARY TO USE TO TALK TO YOUR DOG

It may be exhausting or arousing for a dog to have to evaluate every novel thing in our human environment and wonder how it might affect him. Using a word to indicate a category of things that will just pass on by is incredibly helpful, relaxing information for him. For example: 

“Plane” = Anything loud in the sky 

“Boat” = Anything floating in the water

“Bike” = A human moving fast on a bike, scooter, or skateboard

“Neighbor” = A random person we see out walking

“They’re playing” = Kids or teens racing around or being loud

“Runner” = Human moving fast on foot

“Doggy” = A dog we see but won’t greet up close

In contrast, here are words that can help a dog anticipate more interaction: 

“Buddy” = A dog we’ll get up close to, sniff, walk with, or play with

“Friend” = A human we’ll say hello to

“Guest” = People coming into the house (this will telegraph that people will come in, sit around and talk)

“Helper” = A plumber, electrician, painter, or anybody coming into the house to work (may telegraph that person will be hanging out for a while, perhaps unsupervised by family, using tools, making noise)

It can be helpful (and just plain fun) to teach your dog things that come up every day, like:

“TV time!” = Snuggle in because we’ll be here for a while

“See ya later” = Go ahead and nap because I’m leaving for a while

“I’ll be right back” = Don’t follow me upstairs because I’m coming immediately back down

“This way” = We’re going to change direction 

“First” and “Next” = For multiple-dog families training, putting harnesses on, getting in the car, being brushed, etc.

This deceptively simple shift in how we talk to our dogs is a great gift we can give them. Intentional, consistent, predictive narration creates calmer dogs – and thus, happier humans. 

Homemade Frozen Dog Treats

By
CJ Puotinen
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4
popsicles for dogs
For “pupsicles,” use an edible “stick” such as a slice of carrot. The downside of frozen treats is that they melt, and melting treats can be messy. If you’re feeding indoors, try serving frozen dog treats on a towel, mat, or other surface that protects furniture and flooring.

Our dogs are just as fond of ice cream, popsicles, and other frozen treats as we are. But frozen treats, including those sold for pets, can be high in sugar, difficult to digest, expensive, or contain artificial flavors, colors, and even potentially dangerous ingredients. 

Fortunately, it’s easy to save money, add variety, improve the nutritional content of your dog’s treats, and help your hot dog cool down as temperatures climb with these homemade frozen dog treats.

How to Make The Best Frozen Dog Treats in Town

Ingredients: Avoid ingredients that are harmful to dogs, such as the sweetener xylitol, macadamia nuts, grapes, raisins, onions, and chocolate. Prevent unwanted weight gain by limiting fruits, fruit juices, and other sources of sugar, and feed all “extra” treats in moderation. 

Many dogs are lactose-intolerant, which can make regular ice cream and frozen milk products indigestible. Substituting fermented dairy products like yogurt or kefir, or using unsweetened coconut milk, which is lactose-free, helps dogs avoid digestive problems.

Equipment: Recommended equipment includes a sharp knife and cutting board, blender or food processor, and something to hold and shape treats during freezing, such as simple ice cube trays, sturdy rubber chew toys, popsicle molds, paper cups, silicone molds, wooden strips, and edible sticks.

Storage: Once treats are frozen, place them in air-tight freezer containers or zip-lock bags for freezer storage. This prevents sublimation, during which frozen foods dehydrate, and it prevents the transmission of odors to and from other foods. 

Frozen Dog Treat Disclaimer: If your dog loves to chew ice cubes, she’s not alone – but ice cubes are potentially hazardous. According to Tennessee pet dentist Barden Greenfield, DVM, “Dogs have a tendency to chew too hard and the force of breaking ice is substantial. This leads to a slab fracture (broken tooth) of the upper 4th premolar, which many times exposes the pulp, leading to tremendous oral pain and discomfort. Treatment options are root canal therapy or surgical removal.” 

The risk of breaking a tooth increases with the size of frozen cubes, so avoid this problem by freezing small cubes, offer shaved ice instead of cubes, or add ingredients that produce softer cubes, such as those described here. Small amounts of honey, which can have health benefits for dogs, help prevent a “too hard” freeze. 

Use whatever safe ingredients you have on hand, and experiment with quantities. There is no single “right” way to make a frozen treat that your dog will relish. An easy way to predict whether your dog will enjoy a frozen treat is to offer a taste (such as a teaspoon) before freezing. If your dog loves it, perfect. If not, add a more interesting bonus ingredient.

Simple Frozen Kong Ideas for Easy Frozen Dog Treats

Nothing could be easier than filling a sturdy dishwasher-safe, nontoxic, hollow, hard rubber toy such as a Classic Kong with any of the following ingredients before leaving it in the freezer. Block any extra holes to prevent leakage, leaving one large hole open for filling. Popular dog-safe ingredient options include:

  • Mashed ripe banana
  • Pureed soft fruit or vegetables (remove seeds or pits before blending)
  • Canned dog food
  • Nut butter (look for sugar-free peanut butter or other nut butters that do not contain xylitol)
  • Diced apple
  • Chopped or shredded carrots
  • Shredded unsweetened coconut
  • Plain unsweetened yogurt or kefir
  • Dog treats

Combine your dog’s favorite ingredients and fill the hollow toy. If desired, seal the top with a layer of peanut butter, squeeze cheese, or a dog treat paste such as Kong’s Stuffin’ Paste. Store the toy so its contents remain in place while freezing. For storage, keep frozen Kongs in a sealed freezer container or zip-lock bag. 

Another simple summer treat is a few chunks of frozen dog-safe fruits or vegetables delivered by hand or in a small bowl, such as banana, apple, peach, watermelon, cantaloupe, honeydew melon, or green beans.

frozen dog treats made some ice trays and popsicles for dogs
Dogs love frozen treats. Make them more fun with fancy ice cube trays, or make nutrient-filled popsicles for dogs.

Ice Cube Treats for Dogs

Any liquid that your dog enjoys will work well as a simple frozen ice cube. Follow these instructions to make a frozen dog treat in an ice cube tray: 

  1. Choose any of your dog’s favorite dog safe ingredients like bananas, apples, watermelon, cantaloupe, pineapple, peaches, sugar-free (and xylitol-free) yogurt or kefir, coconut milk, cooked or baked sweet potato, cooked vegetables, peanut butter, and/or canned or cooked fish, meat, or poultry.
  2. Using a blender or food processor, combine the ingredients to create a puree, one that’s thin enough to pour.
  3. After freezing, remove the treats to zip-lock bags for freezer storage.

Adding a surprise to your frozen dog treats!

Adding a surprise in the middle turns ice into a fun game. Some of my dog’s favorite bases include:

  • Salt-free or low-salt bone broth
  • Water pureed with a small amount of cooked meat or fish
  • Broth or water mixed with unsweetened coconut milk

Fill your ice cube tray halfway and freeze. Then remove the tray from the freezer and add in the center of each cube a small treat such as:

  • Blueberries, cut strawberries, banana slices, or other cut fruit
  • A piece of cooked meat
  • A small training treat
  • A dollop of peanut butter

Fill the ice cube tray to the top with the same or a different base liquid and place it back in the freezer. After the cubes have frozen solid (usually within 4 hours), store them in zip-lock bags.

Make it fancy!

Silicone molds can turn any simple treat into something extra special. (Okay, the dogs won’t notice, but you and your human friends will be impressed!) Place your silicone molds on a cookie sheet and arrange enough freezer space to hold them flat during freezing. 

Homemade Ice Cream for Dogs

Soft Serve for Dogs

homemade ice cream for dogs ingredients
When making homemade ice cream for your dog, replace the typical dairy ingredients that make up our favorite ice creams with fermented dairy like yogurt or kefir.

Follow these instructions to create a soft, swirly frozen confection:

  1. Cut ripe fruit such as watermelon or other melon (remove seeds as you go) into chunks and freeze them for at least 4 hours.
  2. In a blender or food processor, combine 2 cups frozen fruit with 1/4 cup plain unsweetened yogurt, kefir, or coconut milk. Blend well to achieve a soft-serve consistency.
  3. Serve in an ice cream cone, paper cup, or small bowl, place some in a hollow toy, or add it on top of your dog’s dinner.

Pupsicles – Popsicles for Dogs

It’s fun to serve a frozen fruit smoothie or another frozen treat on a stick to your best friend, and there are dozens of do-it-yourself popsicle molds to choose from. Take a look online for inspiration. For convenience, paper cups work just as well. Here’s how to make popsicles for your dog: 

  1. In your blender or food processor, combine dog safe ingredients such as frozen banana pieces, unsweetened nut butter, unsweetened yogurt or kefir, bacon bits, coconut milk, and/or meat, fish, or poultry.
  2. Aim for the consistency of a thick milkshake.
  3. Fill the popsicle molds and add an edible “stick” such as a dog biscuit, green bean, slice of carrot or parsnip, bully stick, or sturdy chew toy like a nylon bone.
  4. To remove the pupsicles from their molds, leave them at room temperature for 2 to 3 minutes or run warm water over the outside of the mold. 

Dog Vomit – How to Identify It and What to Do When Your Dog Vomits

By
Dr. Eileen Fatcheric, DVM
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2
nauseas dog signs
Most dogs will look uncomfortable immediately before and after vomiting. But if your dog vomits once and then bounces back to her normal, cheerful, active self, you probably don’t have to worry (though you should continue to observe her). In contrast, if your dog seems depressed, lethargic, weak, or in pain after vomiting, you need to get her to a veterinary hospital as soon as you can. © Cynoclub | Dreamstime.com © Yekatseryna Netuk | Dreamstime.com

Vomiting is one of the most common reasons that dogs are brought to the vet. That’s probably because there are hundreds of things that make dogs vomit. But that’s for your veterinarian to figure out; what you need to figure out is when your dog should see the vet and when you can try to handle your dog’s vomiting at home.

For purposes of this discussion, I’m talking about acute vomiting, meaning it started suddenly and is not usual for the patient. I’m not going to discuss chronic vomiting that’s been going on for awhile and is presumably already being addressed by some sort of treatment plan. 

I’m also not talking about regurgitation. This is a completely different problem, with its own list of differential diagnoses. Regurgitation is caused by esophageal problems and neuromuscular disease. In contrast, vomiting is caused by stomach and upper gastrointestinal (GI) issues, or nausea due to other diseases, toxins, or medications.

How do you tell the difference between vomiting and regurgitating? You can’t differentiate between them based only on found evidence; the expelled material can look similar for both. To know which is which, you have to witness the event: Vomiting is a more forceful ejection of stomach contents, usually involving retching and abdominal heaving. Vomiting is frequently preceded by signs of nausea, such as lip licking and drooling. 

In contrast, regurgitation is a passive, spontaneous event, during which the contents of the pharynx (back of the throat), esophagus, and stomach just roll out of the dog effortlessly and with no associated signs of nausea.  

The level of concern warranted by a single vomiting event in an otherwise healthy dog depends on a few things, including the dog’s age, overall attitude and demeanor, and whether there are additional symptoms.

Puppy Vomiting

It always warrants more concern when puppies vomit, as they can dehydrate quickly and suffer from low blood sugar events. 

The important questions to answer for vomiting puppies are:

  • Vaccination status – Current? Are they done with the puppy series or overdue for vaccines?
  • Has the puppy had adequate dewormings and a negative fecal?
  • Has the puppy had exposure to sick dogs?
  • Is there any possibility that the puppy ate something he shouldn’t have?
  • Is he acting happy and normal (beyond the vomiting)?

Any vomiting puppy who is acting depressed, lethargic, in pain, or weak should be seen by a veterinarian right away. Similarly, if there are other symptoms like trouble breathing or watery and/or bloody diarrhea you should get to the vet as soon as possible.

If your vomiting puppy is acting normal, is current on vaccinations, has been adequately dewormed, has been continuously supervised, and has had no exposure to sick dogs, you may be in a position to try the first-aid tips below. 

what does dog vomit mean

First Aid for Dog Vomiting

If your dog is bouncing around like usual, full of energy, and has no bowel issues associated with the vomiting, you are definitely in a position to try a little first aid and see if you can get away without a veterinary visit, should you so choose. (But what I just said about depressed, lethargic, or weak puppies goes for adults, too: If an adult dog is vomiting and lethargic, and has other symptoms as well, get to a vet!)

The first thing you do is pick up all the food and water. Nauseous dogs seem to think if they drink water it will settle their stomachs, but it doesn’t; it just makes them vomit all the more. Regardless of what has caused the digestive upset, the stomach needs some time to settle and the nausea needs time to pass. 

I recommend nothing by mouth – no food or water – for 4 to 6 hours. If there has been no vomiting during that time, you can start offering a small amount of water (small dog:  1 tablespoon; medium dog: ¼ cup; large dog: ½ cup). If they drink it, wait 30 minutes to make sure it’s not coming back up.  (Toy-breed puppies and pups less than 6 weeks should not be fasted; for larger pups from 6 weeks to 12 weeks old, reduce the fasting times given here by half.)

If they keep that down, you can offer this small amount of water every 30 minutes, and gradually increase the amount offered each time until eventually you can leave a bowl down without risk of them trying to guzzle it. If your dog cannot hold water down during this process, it’s time to see the vet.

If your dog holds the water down, wait at least 4 to 6 more hours before offering food. Bland, easily digestible food may help. A home-cooked recipe is boiled chicken or boiled hamburger (pour all the fat off), mixed with plain white rice, 4 parts rice to 1 part meat. As with the water, offer only small amounts about 3 to 4 hours apart (small dog:  1 tablespoon; medium dog: ¼ cup; large dog: ½ cup). 

If the first couple of meals stay down, you can increase the meal size and decrease the frequency as you go along. If your dog cannot hold food down during this process, it’s time to see the vet. If all goes well, make a gradual transition to his regular diet over 2 to 3 days.

Now you’re probably wondering, but what if something bad is going on and I wait too long? If you follow these first-aid tips, you won’t wait too long. If something bad is going on, your dog will either start showing more signs of malaise, and/or continue vomiting, and off to the vet you go.

Common Causes of Vomiting

Here are some examples of possibly not-so-bad things that might cause simple dog vomiting:

  • Got into the cat’s food
  • Ate part of a dead bunny
  • Consumed too much grass
  • Spent the weekend with your in-laws eating god knows what 
  • Took off during your daily hike and came back smelling like something awful, some of which he probably ate 
  • Overindulged in deer-poop snacks

Here are some examples of bad things that might cause dog vomiting:

  • Chewed up a bottle of ibuprofen 
  • Was chewing on a tennis ball and now you can only find a small piece of it
  • Got into the garbage with food and bones in it
  • Chewed up a bag of raisins
  • You can’t find the bag of grapes you left on the counter – and you live alone
  • You can’t find your favorite socks or underwear
  • You saw him swallow your favorite socks or underwear
  • You left him unsupervised with a rope toy and now it’s a pile of yarn
  • He ate the pound of butter he found in the grocery bag you left on the floor
  • Medical issues: pancreatitis, kidney disease, liver disease, Addison’s disease, severe allergic reactions, bowel blockages, cancer, etc.

When To Take Your Dog to the Vet for Vomiting

When you’ve gone through the first aid steps and your dog isn’t showing signs of improvement, the vet is the next step. What is your veterinarian going to do when you show up with your vomiting dog? A physical exam, for sure. From there, it depends on your dog’s history, signalment, and physical exam findings.  

Young dogs are notorious for eating what I like to call “dumb stuff,” so your vet may want to do an x-ray to make sure there aren’t rocks, batteries, coins, baby binkies, or a golf ball in there. Socks and underwear are trickier to see on an x-ray, but sometimes obvious enough. X-rays are also indicated for any vomiting dog with a painful abdomen, as there may be an intestinal obstruction.

Older dogs, while less likely to eat “dumb stuff,” have a higher likelihood of systemic disease, so your veterinarian may want to do diagnostics like bloodwork and urinalysis.

If everything checks out okay, and all the bad stuff is ruled out, your veterinarian can administer an extra level of first-aid in the form of anti-nausea and/or anti-vomiting medications. Maropitant (Cerenia, made by Zoetis) is an effective anti-vomiting medication that can be given by injection and lasts for 24 hours. Ondansetron (Zofran, made by Novartis) works well for nausea and can also be given by injection at the veterinary clinic. If your dog shows any signs of dehydration, fluid and electrolyte support can be administered subcutaneously (under the skin) on an outpatient basis.

Better Safe Than Sorry

As previously stated, there may be occasions where you can safely help your dog through a simple digestive upset. If, however, there is any doubt, uncertainty, or question, it’s always best to see your veterinarian. The goal is always to get your canine companion feeling better as quickly as possible. 

Will the Rattlesnake Vaccine Protect My Dog?

By
CJ Puotinen
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1
rattlesnake vaccine for dogs
Most dogs who are bitten by rattlesnakes survive with treatment, whether or not they’ve been vaccinated with the Crotalus Atrox Toxoid (rattlesnake) vaccine. But when a vaccinated dog survives a rattlesnake bite, at least some credit generally is given to the vaccine, furthering the anecdotal evidence that the vaccine works. However, studies have not shown decreased morbidity (illness)or mortality in vaccinated vs. unvaccinated dogs following a rattlesnake bite. Photo Credits: Isselee / Dreamstime.com

Every year rattlesnakes bite more than 100,000 dogs in the United States, with an estimated 40% of bites resulting in severe reactions and fatal reactions in about 5% of bites. So why wouldn’t every owner in areas where rattlesnakes are common vaccinate their dogs against rattlesnake venom? In brief, because there isn’t any solid proof that the rattlesnake vaccine for dogs works as intended. There are no studies that demonstrate an increased survival rate or a reduced rate of severe reactions among vaccinated dogs. 

RATTLESNAKE BITE DANGERS FOR DOGS

Rattlesnake venom causes severe swelling at the bite location (often on the face or paws), bleeding, a dangerous drop in blood pressure, shock, and eventual breathing paralysis. In addition, the venom contains components that can break down proteins, cell membranes, intercellular matrix and/or connective tissue, resulting in painful tissue damage at the site of the bite. 

Veterinary clinics in high-risk areas carry antivenin (also known as antivenom), which helps neutralize the venom. 

To make rattlesnake antivenin, either sheep or horses (depending on the manufacturer) are injected with small amounts of venom from a number of rattlesnake species. The immune systems of the sheep or horses respond by producing protective immunoglobulins that neutralize the specific toxic antigens in the snakes’ venom. Blood is collected from the animals and the hemoglobin is separated from the plasma; the plasma fraction containing the protective immunoglobulin is used to make the antivenin.

Antivenin is expensive – it costs $450 or more per vial – and sometimes, several vials are needed to counteract the bite’s venom. Dogs who are bitten by rattlesnakes are most likely to survive if they receive prompt treatment, which may include antivenin, fluids, antibiotics, anti-inflammatories, antihistamines, hospitalization, and/or surgery.  

RATTLESNAKE VACCINE FOR DOGS

Twenty years ago, Red Rock Biologics developed Crotalus Atrox Toxoid (CAT), a rattlesnake bite vaccine for dogs and horses. The inactivated venom used in its production came from western diamondback rattlesnakes; vaccination with CAT elicits production of immunoglobulins capable of binding to and neutralizing the major protein fractions of Crotalus atrox (western diamondback) venom. 

The vaccine is labeled only “for protection against the venom of the western diamondback rattlesnake.” However, according to Red Rock Biologics, canine antibodies that develop in response to this vaccine may also recognize and bind proteins in other North American rattlesnake venoms. 

The CAT vaccine is given in two doses, administered four weeks apart. It’s recommended to give an additional booster four weeks after the second vaccination for dogs who weigh more than 100 lbs. The vaccine can be given as early as 16 weeks of age, needs to be repeated annually, and should be given a month before snake season begins, as it takes the dog’s body about four weeks to produce peak levels of the antibodies needed for protection.

The vaccine does not offer immunity from the effects of a snake bite. Instead, says the manufacturer, because the dog’s antibodies have been available to neutralize venom components from shortly after the bite, far less tissue destruction should occur than in an unvaccinated animal, and better outcomes are expected.

How effective is the rattlesnake vaccine? That’s the key question. No clinical trials have proved that this vaccine actually works, and a peer-reviewed study published in 2014 found that it did not protect dogs requiring treatment with antivenin (“Effects of the canine rattlesnake vaccine in moderate to severe cases of canine crotalid envenomation,” Veterinary Medicine, October 2014). That study, which examined records of 82 Southern California dogs treated for naturally occurring rattlesnake bites, concluded, “No statistically significant difference in morbidity or mortality between vaccinated and unvaccinated dogs was found. The findings of this study did not identify a significantly protective effect of previous vaccination in the cases of moderate to severe rattlesnake envenomation that require treatment with antivenin.”

Snake Avoidance Training

To protect their dogs, some owners turn to rattlesnake avoidance training. Most avoidance training methods are made available to dog owners through an appointment with someone who is equipped with live rattlesnakes. The repeated presentation of a snake is paired with shocks from a shock collar, to teach the dog to be wary of and avoid snakes. Critics of this method point out that some dogs leave the workshops with newly established and crippling fear of not just snakes, but people who look like or wear the same cologne or hat as the person who was presenting the snake, or sprinklers that make tick-tick-tick sounds similar to rattlesnakes (to hear a recording of a rattlesnake’s rattling, go to californiaherps.com/sounds/rattles.mp3).

In contrast, force-free rattlesnake avoidance training uses relationship-building games, tricks, and rewards to strengthen the dog’s response to recall and “leave it” cues. We strongly recommend this type of training over the type that relies on negative reinforcement, which can have unexpected and problematic behavioral fallout. For more information about force-free snake avoidance training, see see “Snake Aversion without Shock,”  WDJ May 2015.

You can make your yard less attractive to snakes by clearing debris and clutter, removing snake-friendly hiding places such as piles of leaves or wood, installing snake-proof fencing, and eliminating mice or other small animals that attract snakes. When walking where rattlesnakes are known to be, keep dogs on short leashes, avoid tall grass, pay attention to the trail, and be ready to walk your dogs away from rattlesnakes.

OPINIONS ON THE RATTLESNAKE VACCINE VARY, EVEN AMONG VETERINARIANS

Because of the vaccine’s questionable efficacy, and the fact that vaccinated and unvaccinated dogs must receive the same medical care when bitten by a snake, many veterinary hospitals, such as the University of California Davis Veterinary Medical Teaching Hospital, do not recommend it for their canine patients. 

Some veterinarians, however, believe that the vaccine might delay the venom’s effect so that the owner can reach a veterinarian in time to save the dog’s life or decrease the venom’s effects. For this reason, they recommend the vaccine for dogs at high risk in areas where immediate treatment is impossible.

“I’m a big believer in the rattlesnake bite vaccine,” says Lorrie Boldrick, DVM, in Orange, California (barefootveterinarian.com). “Any rattlesnake bite is a medical emergency, but the description that stays with me is that the whole point of the vaccine is to give you extra time, to make it more likely that you’ll be able to get to a veterinarian with a live dog.”

Dr. Boldrick explains that it’s impossible to know how severe a bite is when it happens, because a rattlesnake may release no venom at all when it bites (this is called a dry bite), a moderate, or a maximum amount. Rattlesnakes are able to control the release of venom; they use as much as they need to kill their prey. The amount they use when they bite a dog is highly variable. Because of this, every bite needs to be treated as promptly as possible.

At least six of Dr. Boldrick’s vaccinated patients have been bitten by rattlesnakes and all of them survived. “I believe that each of them received at least some venom,” she says, “and two of them got a lot, and they did fine. I know of so many vaccinated dogs who recovered with minimal care that I’m convinced the vaccine helped by reducing the venom’s effect and providing extra time to seek treatment.”

The vaccination is not expensive – about $30 to $40 for each vaccination at most veterinary clinics – but it’s not entirely benign, either. An estimated 5% of vaccinated dogs develop a reaction at the injection site, ranging from sensitivity to an abscess that requires veterinary treatment.

Should You Carry Benadryl On The Trail?

Benadryl is widely touted as an effective treatment for rattlesnake bites, but according to emergency physician and medical toxicologist Nick Brandehoff, M.D. (snakebitefoundation.org), Benadryl does nothing to prevent the swelling, redness, pain, and cell death caused by snake venom. “Benadryl,” he writes, “is ineffective for treating a venomous snakebite, even as a temporizing measure in the back country.”

TO VAX OR NOT TO VAX?

We recommend making an appointment with your veterinarian to discuss the CAT vaccine and your dog’s relative risk from the bite of a venomous snake. It’s not proven whether this vaccination can stimulate antibodies quickly enough to protect your dog from the venom in a snakebite, or whether the vaccination would offer protection from whatever species of rattlesnake your dog encountered. Keep in mind that your vet may have a bias for or against the vaccine, based on her experience in your area.

And, vaccine aside, consider that there are proven benefits to strengthening your dog’s response to your recall and “leave it” or “walk away” cues. If these behaviors are not reliable, keep your dog on a short leash, and keep your eyes wide open when you are walking with your dog in rattlesnake habitats. 

Safe Stick Toys for Dogs

By
Nancy Kerns
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0
safe stick toys
We tested these five artificial stick toys for more than a month. We threw and the dogs fetched, chewed, and played tug-of-war with them. They also got left outside in the sun a lot. After a month of this activity, both we and our dogs developed some favorites. From left to right, first to worst: 1. West Paw Zwig 2. RuffDawg Stick 3. Kong Safestix 4. Chuckit! Air Fetch Stick 5. Spunky Pup Fetch & Glow Stick

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Once upon a time, I owned a fetching fool of a Border Collie named Rupert. This dog lived for fetch, and he’d fetch anything; he wasn’t a flying disc specialist or a discriminating snob for a certain type of ball, like my current fetcher (Woody). There didn’t even have to be a toy! If no ball or Frisbee was at hand and someone seemed like a throwing candidate, Rupe would go looking for a stick. He’d grab any twig or branch he could find, drop it at the potential thrower’s feet, and do a little dance-step backward, staring at the stick, mouth open in anticipation. “Throw it! Throw it!” he’d be saying with every molecule in his body. 

Again, this was well before WDJ, and I was young, dumb, and broke. I didn’t buy special toys for my fetch-obsessed, athletic dog in our first few years together; often I just threw the sticks that he found and brought to me. That is, until the accident happened. 

My then-boyfriend and I had taken Rupie to the beach, and we were all having a blast. Rupert was deliriously happy with the quantity and variety of driftwood on the beach. He brought stick after stick to us to throw for him – until one stick hit the sand like an arrow might fall from the sky, lodging in the sand just a millisecond before a racing Rupert grabbed at it. He was going so fast, and the stick stopped so suddenly, that his teeth failed to close on the stick before the other end stabbed him in the back of the throat. He fell backward, gagging in pain, as blood dripped from his mouth. 

Thank goodness, he survived. We rushed him to an emergency veterinary clinic, where they sedated him and examined his throat with an endoscope. His trachea was severely scraped, but not punctured. As you can imagine, that was the last time I ever threw a wooden stick for my dog.

SAFETY FIRST WHEN PICKING A STICK TOY

dogs playing tug of war with stick toy
My “test dogs” enjoyed playing tug with and mutually chewing on the Kong Safestix.

Throat-piercing isn’t the only potential hazard of playing with natural sticks. Dogs have been known to consume enough chewed-up wood and splinters to require emergency surgery; wood splinters can also get lodged between dogs’ teeth or in gums, starting painful dental conditions. Dogs who are playing tug-of-war with another dog using a branch can spin around and put out another dog’s eye. 

Given my past experience with Rupert, more knowledge about the dangers of sticks – and enough income to afford to buy toys for my dogs now – today, I throw only rubbery, commercially manufactured sticks for my dogs. None of these products could possibly puncture a dog’s throat – or, for that matter, put out a dog’s eye or break a dog’s tooth. 

dogs chewing on ruffdawg stick
My dogs seemed to particularly enjoy the mouth-feel of the Ruffdawg Stick.

These toy “sticks” are not only fun for throwing and fetching on land or in water (they all float), but also can be used in games of tug-of-war. And no one will get a splinter!

SUCCESSFUL STICK TOYS

The first toy stick for dogs I remember seeing for sale was the Kong Company’s Safestix. It may not have been the first toy stick for dogs on the market, but its resemblance to an, ahem, adult human toy makes it unforgettable (and a bit uncomfortable to throw for your dog in public!). 

We like the fact that Safestix comes in three lengths, with the longest (27 inches!) being the best candidate among all the sticks for playing tug-of-war with larger dogs. But since safety is the whole reason we are looking at this category of dog toy, we have to downgrade the Safestix for Kong’s failure to disclose what the toy is made of, or whether it’s free of any chemicals (such as BPA, phthalates, or latex) that have been associated with health problems or allergies.

That’s why we gave our top rating to only two of the five products we tested. Only West Paw and RuffDawg manufacture their toys in the U.S. Also, both companies disclose the contents of their products – and both companies seem to do their homework about what dogs like, too: These continue to be the most popular toy sticks for unprompted play between our test dogs. 

WDJ's Product Ratings

The product has no redeeming value that we can appreciate.
one pawWe are including the product only because of its potential for improvement.
The product has some value, as well as some serious flaws. Some of its features may be useful in certain applications.
A good product, with one or two significant flaws.
As good as it gets. We strongly endorse the product.

Toy "Sticks" For Dogs, From First to Worst

WDJ RatingProduct Maker/Name Maker's WebsitePriceComments
West Paw Zwig$20
(Amazon)
13 3/4”. Top-rack dishwasher safe. Free of BPA and latex, the Zwig is made in the U.S. with recyclable, zero-waste Zogoflex. The product looks solid, but is hollow and squishable – not super-squishy; it’s much more dense than foam, but not as dense as rubber. All three test dogs seemed to enjoy the “mouth feel” of this toy, so it had to be protected from unauthorized chewing. Because it’s a little lighter than its competitors, it’s harder to throw very far. Like all West Paw products, Zwig is covered by the company’s “love it guarantee”: If you are unhappy with the performance of a West Paw product, you may ask for a one-time refund or replacement, per toy design. And if the product gets chewed or torn, send it back to the company; it will be sanitized, ground up, and used in the manufacture of more Zogoflex toys. Comes in three colors.
RuffDawg Stick$19
(Amazon)
12” (also comes in a 6” size for small dogs; the small version is called “Twig”). Made by Jefferson Rubber Works in Worcester, MA, with 100% rubber. Free of BPA, latex, or phthalate. The package calls it, “Rugged and stretchable, tear- and puncture-resistant.” That was our experience; the test dogs spontaneously chose this product over all the others for playing tug-of-war between themselves, and even so, it hasn’t shown any signs of rips or tears. It’s heaver than the Zwig and easier to throw. It’s also hollow and open at either end, so you can fill it with kibble or treats – or freeze it with canned food inside!
Kong Safestix$10 - $20
(Chewy)
As far as we know, this was the first toy “stick” on the dog toy market, so kudos to Kong for a good idea. It’s also available in three sizes: small (111/2”), medium (20”), and large (27”); we especially appreciate the longest one for when we are playing tug-of-war with our dogs. It’s also the most dense, heaviest of the products, so it’s the easiest to throw far. However, there is no information offered anywhere on the Kong website or the product package about what the Safestix is made of; a “durable material” is the only clue. Also, it’s made in China; we strongly prefer products that are made in the U.S., particularly when it’s not clear what they are made of!
Chuckit! Air Fetch Stick$9 - $12
(Amazon)
“Fetch hard, breathe easy” is the slogan on the package of this toy. The hollow, flexible design facilitates easy breathing and airflow while your dog carries the toy. That’s a cool concept, and particularly helpful for dogs who would be playing fetch in the water. Its light weight and flexibility make it difficult to throw very far; that’s maybe not an issue for some dog owners. However, like the Kong product, this is foreign-made (Vietnam) out of an unnamed material. Available in two sizes: small (7”) and large (12”).
one pawSpunky Pup Fetch & Glow Stick$7
(Amazon)
We will admit that we got excited about a glow-in-the-dark toy – but once it got here, we realized that it’s probably not a great idea to have dogs chew on an unidentified plastic-type of material that contains whatever makes it glow in the dark. This is a solid toy, more dense than its competitors, easy to throw but with an apparently less-appealing mouth-feel for the dogs (we never saw them pick it up on their own). 12”. Dishwasher safe. Made in China.

What To Expect From Your Dog’s Check Up at the Vet

By
Dr. Eileen Fatcheric, DVM
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13
dog check up
Don't be afraid to ask your veterinarian questions or bring up concerns as she is examining your dog; your time together is limited, and most veterinarians are good multi-taskers.

How often your dog should be seen by your veterinarian, and what sort of routine screening diagnostics should be conducted, are highly dependent on your dog’s life stage and general health. That said, well-informed owners are in the best position to ensure that their dogs receive the optimum care and attention from their veterinarians.

WHAT’S NORMAL FOR EACH LIFE STAGE VET CHECK UP

For puppies, monthly exams are recommended for vaccinations as well as monitoring the pups’ growth, nutritional status, tooth alignment/development, and general health as the puppy grows and develops. Training and behavioral issues will be addressed as you roll along, and any necessary vaccines given at the appropriate intervals.

Regarding vaccinations, you and your veterinarian should do a personalized risk assessment, based on the lifestyle and environment you share with your dog, before determining which vaccines are right for your dog. Then, follow your veterinarian’s advice regarding boosting frequency and intervals.

During young to middle adulthood (1 to 6 years) annual exams are sufficient for healthy dogs with no medical issues. If your dog suffers from things like allergies, ear infections, gastrointestinal problems, or behavioral/anxiety issues, you will see your veterinarian more frequently, as needed.

The recommendation for healthy senior dogs (7+ years) is to have wellness exams twice a year. Time starts moving a little faster for these guys, bringing with it a higher likelihood of medical problems that may not be outwardly apparent to you, but may be picked up by your veterinarian with physical exam and diagnostics. The earlier an issue is identified, the better the chance of either resolving or successfully managing it. Examples include dental disease, oral tumors, ocular disease, kidney issues, abdominal masses, and anal gland tumors. Having your senior dog examined every six months means catching these things conceivably six months earlier than you would with annual exams.

A THOROUGH PHYSICAL EXAM FOR YOUR DOG

If you’ve ever wondered what your vet is doing while examining your dog, here’s a summary of a typical wellness visit for dogs:

  • Body Condition Score (BCS). Vet checks to determine if your dog is underweight, overweight, or at a healthy weight.
  • Muscle Condition Score (MCS). This is especially important in senior pets, a measure of general health, strength, and vitality.
  • Eye exam (with a light source). Vet checks vision and looks for any infection, inflammation, eyelid abnormalities, dry eye syndrome, or tumors.
  • Ear exam (with an otoscope). Vet looks for signs of infection or tumors/polyps.
  • Mouth. Vet checks tooth and gum health and hydration status, looks for signs of infection or tumors, and checks color of mucous membranes (pink = normal, pale = anemia, yellow = jaundice, blue/grey = hypoxia/low oxygen level).
  • Throat. Vet checks for collapsing trachea.
  • Peripheral lymph nodes. Vet palpates these, looking for signs of cancer or infection.
  • Skin. The quality of the dog’s coat can indicate problems with nutrition or endocrine disorders; vet also checks for infections, parasites, lumps and bumps, and the dog’s hydration status.
  • Abdomen. Vet palpates for signs of discomfort, fluid, organ enlargement, tumors, or bladder pain.
  • Rectal exam. Vet looks for signs of tumors, polyps, anal gland impaction/tumor, and checks the prostate in males.
  • Genitalia. Vet looks for any abnormal discharge or tumors.
  • Heart/pulses. Vet listens to heart for sounds that indicate murmurs or arrhythmia, and checks heart rate, pulse strength, and rhythm. 
  • Lungs. Vet checks respiratory rate and listens to breath sounds throughout the lungs; do they sound normal or harsh or wheezy, are there quiet areas (indicating fluid or tumor).
  • Temperature. Taking the dog’s temperature is not generally necessary to check during a well visit. If you would like it checked, just ask!

As you can see, there is a ton of information to be had about your dog’s health with the physical exam. And don’t worry if we chat with you and ask questions about your dog while we perform our exam. We’ve done it a million times, our systematic exam is deeply ingrained, and we’re multi-taskers by nature. 

Be sure and bring a list of any general questions you may have. Time in the exam room goes by quickly, and you don’t want to miss an opportunity to discuss your concerns face to face with your veterinarian.

Find The Right Veterinary Partner

Your relationship with your veterinarian is a partnership in every sense of the word. In a partnership, two entities come together, working toward and sharing the same goal. In this case, the goal is the health, happiness, and longevity of your dog. A successful partnership, especially in the veterinary setting, requires open, effective communication and mutual trust and respect. This relationship is a big component of your dog’s overall care, so if it doesn’t feel right, it’s well worth the time and effort to find a better fit for you and your dog. You want someone who is patient (with both you and your dog!), who listens and addresses all of your concerns, every time; who understands and respects your goals as well as your limitations; who offers you options (when there are options) and coaches you through the decision-making. The bottom line is, if your vet is someone your respect and trust, following his or her advice with confidence is much easier. It means you can relax and know that you are doing the absolute best that you can for your faithful companion.

DIAGNOSTIC TESTS

It’s a good idea to have a chemistry screen (chem) and complete blood count (CBC) done on your healthy young dog, to serve as a baseline for his future tests. For many dogs, this is accomplished with pre-anesthetic bloodwork at the time of spay/neuter surgery. If your dog is going to remain intact, consider chem and CBC tests at his first annual adult exam. This can be done at the same time as his recommended annual heartworm and tick blood test. 

An annual fecal exam for parasites is recommended. This is important because of the zoonotic risk intestinal parasites pose for humans and because of recently emerging intestinal parasite resistance to monthly heartworm/parasite preventatives.

After this, until your dog becomes a senior, how often to repeat wellness chem/CBC screening is really up to you and your vet. It’s good practice to test annually, as information is power. Ask your veterinarian what seems most appropriate for you and your dog. If she tells you it’s not necessary, but you want to do it, just ask. Conversely, if your veterinarian recommends it and you don’t want to do it, ask what risks you may be taking by declining the recommended testing, then make an informed decision for your dog. 

If there are medical issues common to your dog’s breed, bring a list of what you’ve found and ask your veterinarian about the clinical relevance and whether there are screening tests that might identify the problem early. 

For example, Dobermans are prone to dilated cardiomyopathy, so if you own a Doberman or Doberman-mix, you might ask about an annual NT-proBNP (a blood test that suggests heart enlargement) and an echocardiogram (cardiac ultrasound). 

In addition to twice-annual wellness checks for senior dogs, it’s a good idea to employ an increased number of screening diagnostics for them, too. A chem/CBC, urinalysis, and fecal should be considered at least annually. If your senior dog is on a chronic medication, whether it be for pain or anxiety or allergies, checking his blood chemistry twice a year is worth consideration. These are generally the screening diagnostics recommended along with the annual heartworm/tick-borne disease test.

Other diagnostic tests, like thyroid hormone, urine culture, blood pressure check, x-rays, and ultrasound are entertained on a case-by-case basis. Again, if there is a screening test you are interested in, just ask. 

10 Healthy Dog Food Additives to Improve a Dry Food Diet

By
CJ Puotinen
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6
Healthy dog food additives like fruit and eggs can boost your dog's nutritional intake.
These are all great additions to your dog’s dry-food diet. But to avoid providing too many calories, radically altering the ideal the calcium-phosphorus ratio, or otherwise unbalancing the diet, limit these additions to a maximum of 25% of the total calories you feed him each day. Check your dog’s food label for its caloric content. A good source of calorie information for the diet additions is fdc.nal.usda.gov.

America’s most popular dog food is kibble or dry food, which, because it is convenient and affordable, accounts for more than 60% of all dog food sales. Unfortunately, dry dog food is far from perfect. 

The good news is, that you can vastly improve a dry diet by making simple additions of cooked or raw foods, says Mary Straus, long-time pet-food researcher and owner of the DogAware.com website. “Today’s consumers have many dog food choices,” Straus says, “but kibble is the diet that most benefits from enhancement since it is so highly processed and because it tends to be high in carbohydrates, which are needed for the extrusion process.”

Straus recommends adding animal-source foods such as eggs, meat, or dairy rather than plant foods such as grains, legumes, and starchy vegetables. Most dry foods are already high in carbohydrates, she explains, and dogs have no nutritional need for carbohydrates. In contrast, animal protein supports the immune system and central nervous system, contributes to wound healing, helps build lean muscle, and is required for skin and coat health. 

What to Add to Dog Food

In general, added foods should represent only a small portion of the calories your dog consumes. “Replacing more than 25% of the calories from a commercial diet with fresh foods, treats, and chews risks seriously unbalancing the overall diet, unless care is taken to balance the added portion,” Straus explains.  She offers the following guidelines to help improve your dog’s health while adding enjoyment and variety:

1. Eggs

Feed eggs raw or lightly scrambled, soft-boiled, or hard-boiled. “Whole raw eggs are fine,” says Straus, “as the yolks contain plenty of biotin to make up for what raw egg whites destroy, but the whites are more easily digested when cooked. 

Eggs are one of the healthiest and easiest additions to make. Dogs weighing 40 pounds or more can handle a whole egg, so I’d recommend half an egg (or a whole egg every other day) for dogs weighing 20 to 40 pounds and proportionately less for smaller dogs.”

2. Muscle meat (including heart) and organ meats.

Add any kind of meat, such as chicken, turkey, or lean beef, either ground or in chunks that are small enough to prevent choking, served raw or lightly cooked (never feed cooked bones). 

While liver and other organ meats provide beneficial nutrients, Straus no longer recommends feeding fresh or freeze-dried beef liver to kibble-fed dogs. “This is because most commercial foods are already high in copper,” she explains, “and excessive copper in the diet can lead to copper storage disease.” 

For organ meats other than beef liver, she recommends introducing small amounts. Organ meats like heart and poultry gizzard are nutritionally similar to muscle meats and can be fed in greater quantity, though some dogs might experience digestive upset if too much is fed at one time.

3. Fish

Canned sardines (preferably packed in water rather than oil), jack mackerel, and pink salmon are wonderful additions, says Straus, because of their beneficial fatty acids and trace minerals. 

“One small sardine weighing less than half an ounce provides 100 to 150 mg of the omega-3 fatty acids EPA and DHA,” she says, “and I recommend 3 to 10 mg EPA/DHA per pound of body weight daily.” 

Don’t feed raw salmon or trout from the Pacific Northwest (California to Alaska) because it may contain a parasite that is fatal to dogs. This may include other salt-water fish that spawn in fresh water such as smelt, sturgeon, shad, and striped bass.

4. Yogurt and Kefir

Fermented dairy products that are homemade or manufactured with added probiotics – and are free of sugar or xylitol – can help with digestive issues. Whole-milk yogurt or kefir is fine unless your dog needs a low-fat diet. (See “Dogs and Dairy Products,” WDJ May 2022.)

5. Cottage Cheese or Ricotta Cheese

Most dogs enjoy cottage cheese and ricotta, and if the milk used to make them comes from grass-fed cattle, especially A2 milk or goat’s milk, these protein-rich cheeses are easily digested. 

6. Canned Pumpkin (not pumpkin pie mix)

This traditional remedy for diarrhea and constipation, is an all-purpose digestive aid. Feed small amounts, such as 1 teaspoon plain canned or pureed cooked pumpkin per 10 pounds of body weight once or twice per day. 

7. Cooked or Pureed Vegetables

Because dogs don’t chew their food enough to break down cell walls, whole raw vegetables don’t provide much nutritional value. Vegetables pureed in a food processor, juicer, or blender are more digestible; cooked vegetables can be digested without having to be pureed. 

Recommended cooked/pureed plants include carrots, celery, all types of greens, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, zucchini, asparagus, turnips, and parsnips. Because they can be toxic to dogs, onions are not recommended and, if your dog has any symptoms of arthritis or inflammation, avoid plants from the nightshade family, which includes potatoes, tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, tomatillos, and goji berries. 

8. Fruit

Most dogs enjoy bananas, apples, melons, pears, blueberries, and other fresh, ripe fruits. Avocados should be avoided or fed in moderation, says Straus, as avocados are very high in fat and calories. Grapes, raisins, and fruit seeds and pits are also potentially hazardous. The main problem with fruit is its sugar content, which is why it’s a good idea to offer small rather than large amounts to your dog.

9. Raw Green Tripe

You can buy bleached white honeycomb tripe at your supermarket, but while your dog might be interested, that portion of a cow’s stomach won’t provide much nutritional value. Your dog would greatly prefer green tripe, which is untreated and greenish brown in color and smells terrible, at least to us humans. Raw green tripe from grass-fed cattle is highly recommended. 

While some raw feeders serve their dogs entire meals of just green tripe, if you feed a dry diet, you should limit this treat to a maximum of 25% or less of your dog’s daily caloric intake.

10. Recreational Bones

For many dogs, an after-dinner raw bone is an ideal dessert. It can clean teeth, help prevent gum disease, and provide chewing pleasure and jaw exercise. 

However, bones can cause broken teeth, especially if their size and shape allow dogs to get them between their molars and crunch down. Marrow bones are a particular risk. Knuckle bones may be safer because of their shape, especially for large dogs and aggressive chewers. Bone shards can cause serious issues if swallowed. 

For best results, feed only raw, fresh bones and remove them once the tissues connected to them have been eaten and before they dry out. Cooked or dry bones can splinter and are not recommended. 

For More Information

For those who want an easy way to upgrade their dog’s diet by feeding fresh foods, Mary Straus recommends the following books. See also Straus’ website: dogaware.com.

Unlocking the Canine Ancestral Diet by Steve Brown includes guidelines for feeding fresh foods one day a week to dogs who otherwise eat a commercial diet. His book See Spot Live Longer is available in print and in shortened form as an eBook.

Chow: Simple Ways to Share the Foods You Love with the Dogs You Love by Rick Woodford describes foods that can be added to your dog’s bowl. Feed Your Best Friend Better: Easy, Nutritious Meals for Dogs by the same author (revised in 2021) provides cooked recipes for different situations, including feeding half commercial and half homemade.

You Guessed It

By
Nancy Kerns
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1

Until now, in the 20 years I’ve been fostering dogs and puppies for my local shelters, I’ve kept only one. Six years ago, Woody was one of a litter of nine 3-week-old puppies that came into my local shelter with their mother. At about 5 weeks of age, Woody was the first pup to figure out that if he sat at my feet when I was getting food or medicine ready for the puppies, he’d get extra treats and attention. His attention span and focus was extraordinary for such a young puppy, and I fell hard for the solid, stoic chunk of a pup. The litter went back to the shelter for spay/neuter surgery and adoption in stages, and he happened to be among the last to go. When I told my husband that I had decided to keep the big brindle boy, he said, “I knew that weeks ago!” 

Well, oops, I did it again. I’ve had a number of excuses for holding back this foster pup from returning to the shelter for adoption, but over the past few months, the excuses all ran out and he’s still here. 

The clincher in this case was a camping trip into the mountains I made with my husband and a bunch of his friends. I sent my two adult dogs to their usual dog-sitting locations. When I travel, senior dog Otto stays with my sister and Woody stays with my friend Leonora. Both my sister and my friend were very busy, and I didn’t want to inflict dog-sitting a puppy on either of them. I spontaneously decided to bring the pup along.

puppy sitting in front of california lake

He was a champion traveler, riding quietly in his harness and seat belt on the front seat of our truck for an almost four-hour drive. When we got to the campground, nearly empty save for our party, he went right up to all of my husband’s friends, wagging and friendly. He lay by the campfire that night, chewing a pizzle, unbothered by the smoke and sparks, and slept comfortably in our tent with us. My only complaint was that he snores!

The puppy and I were the first ones awake in the morning. I unzipped our tent and discovered an inch or so of snow blanketing the entire campground. We walked down to the lake and watched the sun come up. The pup sat for photos like a professional, and I thought, “What a boon this puppy is.” And so he is; welcome to the family, Boone.

Download The Full July 2022 Issue PDF

By
Nancy Kerns
-
10
  • Tell-Tail Signs
  • Healthy Diet Add-Ons
  • Vet Check-Ups Explained
  • Talk To Your Dogs
  • Safe Sticks
  • Rattlesnake-Bite Vaccine
  • Oh, Barf!
  • The Other Dry Foods
  • DIY Frozen Dog Treats
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Leaving town? Make sure a “go bag” is available to your pets’ caretaker before you leave!

By
Nancy Kerns
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4
smoke from wildfires
This is smoke from a past fire that was close to WDJ Editor Nancy Kerns' home. Being away from home (and her two adult dogs) during a recent local fire prompted this year's annual warning to be prepared to evacuate yourself and your pets! And make sure your pets' caretaker knows where your pets' "go bag" is in advance.

Last week I attended a conference out of town (it was put on by the Shelter Playgroup Alliance, very cool stuff). For several reasons, I brought Boone, the latest addition to our family (my husband is fine with taking care of our adult dogs, but he’s a little inattentive for the constant supervision required for destruction prevention by a five-month-old puppy, and also, because my go-to puppy-sitting friend attended the conference, too!). Boone handled himself like a champ and benefitted from a lot of terrific socialization opportunities from a very educated, dog-friendly group of people.

Here’s the one thing that stopped my heart for a minute: Receiving a text from a friend that said, “Doing ok? Fire.”

You’d have to be living under a rock to be unaware of the fact that the entire Western U.S. is experiencing a years-long drought, which has been contributing to longer and ever-more destructive wildland fires. Historically, the so-called “fire season” in California has been considered to be about July through October. But it seems to start earlier every year and last longer; the devastating Camp Fire of 2018 (located in my county) started on November 8! This is the fire that seared onto my brain the need for pet owners to prepare for emergencies (I wrote about my experiences helping evacuated animals here, here, and here.)

When I’m home, I monitor various new sources for any alerts about fires in my county, not only so that I can respond appropriately to a fire in our immediate area, but also so I can respond quickly to serve as a volunteer for the emergency animal response organization in our area (the North Valley Animal Disaster Group [NVADG]). I follow Cal Fire and several of its local sub-accounts on Twitter, starting with the one that serves my area, Cal Fire Butte Unit. There is also a Facebook page, Butte Wx Spotter, that quickly posts any sort of fire, flood, or another environment-based disaster in my area.

But when I’m at a conference, I don’t look at my phone nearly as often, so I didn’t see any of these pages lighting up with news about a fire that started less than 12 miles from my home. Ack! Twelve miles is nothing in a strong wind-driven fire. 2020’s North Complex fire traveled more than 20 miles in a few hours, prompting our evacuation at 11 pm.

Fortunately, because I do follow all of those sources, I was able to quickly ascertain that while the fire was relatively close to my home, Cal Fire responded quickly and forcefully enough to squash it within a few hours.

The event has put me on full alert for the rest of the summer – and hit me over the head with a reminder that I had not prepared a “go bag” that would have been accessible to my husband had he needed to evacuate from our property with our two adult dogs. I know from past experience, both as a person who has had to evacuate from our property in the middle of the night due to a fast-moving fire, and as someone who volunteers with NVADG  caring for pets who were evacuated from other fires, that having a go-bag ready to grab at a moment’s notice can make a huge difference to one’s peace of mind in case of an evacuation. For example, if my husband had to evacuate with our dogs, but left Otto’s pain medications behind, our poor old guy would be in serious discomfort until we could get refills. If we had to board the dogs somewhere because our house burned down, or show proof of vaccination to stay in a shelter, and didn’t have the dogs’ vaccination records, we’d be stuck (especially if, as in the case of the Camp fire, many veterinary and doctor offices burned down, too, leaving people with NO health records at all!).

If I was home, I could have put the 2022 version of the go bag together in a few minutes – but explaining to my husband where everything was would have been ridiculously complicated. Lesson learned. Now that I’m safely home, I’ve put that together and showed my husband where it’s located.

What should be in your dog’s “go bag”? At a bare minimum, it should contain at least a few days’ supply of any medications he takes or might need in a high-stress situation, and copies of his vaccination records. If your dog becomes anxious in cars or in new situations, and you have a prescription for a sedative medication, I’d keep some of that medication in the go bag as well. You can also include extra collars, leashes, ID tags, and bowls, and perhaps a few cans of food (less perishable than dry food). The go bag is a great place to store your pet-first-aid kit and your dog’s muzzle if he’s a bite-risk in chaotic situations and you’ve already habituated him to wearing one.

Fires are the biggest threat in my part of the country, but floods and tornadoes are reasons for quick evacuations elsewhere. Consider this my annual reminder to GET READY!

For more information on emergency preparedness, see:

https://www.nvadg.org/how-to-be-ready-to-evacuate-with-pets/
https://www.readyforwildfire.org/prepare-for-wildfire/go-evacuation-guide/animal-evacuation/
https://www.aspcapro.org/resource/travel-bag-download-pet-evacuations-plus-disaster-shareables
https://www.americanhumane.org/blog/this-june-prepare-for-your-pets/

Can You Register Your Dog as a Service Dog?

By
John Shewey
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0
woman with her service dog
The Americans with Disisabilities Act does not require you to register your dog as a service dog. ©Mint Images/Getty Images

Calm, cool and collected; attentive and disciplined — surely those admirably trained service dogs who assist disabled people must complete a stringent certification and registration process, right? Actually, and perhaps surprisingly, no, service dogs don’t have to be certified or registered.

Service dog regulations are codified in the Americans with Disabilities Act (ADA), which requires no certification or registration of any kind. Sure, you can pay for a certificate or a registration — plenty of private online entities are happy to sell you that piece of paper — but it carries no weight, no legal standing. The ADA states, “These documents do not convey any rights under the ADA and the Department of Justice does not recognize them as proof that the dog is a service animal.”

In fact, the ADA defines a service dog simply as “a dog that is individually trained to do work or perform tasks for an individual with a disability,” and the task (or tasks) must be directly related to the disability. Examples of service dog tasks are numerous, and a few are:

  • a dog taught to retrieve emergency medication to hand when her owner needs it
  • dog trained to guide a person safely across the street
  • a dog taught to alert a diabetic to dangerous blood sugar levels.

The ADA definition of a service dog is concise but highly inclusive. Let’s say you’re physically impaired from being able to pick up objects off the floor, so you’ve trained your dog to retrieve those objects for you. Provided she is perfectly behaved in public, you have yourself a service dog — congratulations!

There is no official list of qualifying disabilities for engaging the aid of a service dog, and dogs are trained to assist in an extensive range of physical and psychological challenges. And when it comes to that training, yes, service dogs require both exceptional training and superb aptitude, but the ADA mandates no specific training protocol. You or a family member or a friend can train your service dog, or you can pay a professional trainer (they are ubiquitous, but given the expense, vet trainers thoroughly).

The ADA service dog definition excludes emotional support dogs, therapy dogs and companion dogs because they have not been trained to perform a task specific to the owner’s disability.

Critically, the ADA provides the legal footing for service dogs accompanying their owners in virtually all public settings and venues. The only requirements are the service dog must be fully trained and under the complete control of its handler and the dog does not need any special form of identification, such as a service dog vest. The ADA also specifies that staff at public places can ask only two questions of a service dog’s handler:

  1. “Is the dog a service animal required because of a disability?”
  2. “What work or task has the dog been trained to perform?”

Generally, a service dog can only be excluded from accompanying its human handler if the dog’s presence would “fundamentally alter the nature of a service or program provided to the public.” Some states and municipalities may allow in-training service dogs, or even emotional support dogs and therapy dogs similar leeway, so check local laws.

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I’ve had a number of older owners book lessons with me lately—more than half a dozen individuals and couples in their 70s and even 80s, all wanting some training help with their new dogs or puppies.
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