To continue reading this article or issue you must be a paid subscriber. Sign in
If you are logged in but cannot access this content, a) your subscription may have expired; b) you may have duplicate accounts (emails) in our system. Please check your account status hereorcontact customer service.
Immediate access to this article and 20+ years of archives.
Recommendations for the best dog food for your dog.
Dry food, homemade diets and recipes, dehydrated and raw options, canned food and more.
Brands, formulations and ingredients all searchable in an easy-to-use, searchable database.
Plus, you’ll receive training and care guidance to keep your dog healthy and happy. You’ll feed with less stress…train with greater success…and know you are giving your dog the care he deserves.
Subscribenow and save 72%! Its like getting 8 issues free!
Fish oil for dogs has solid research behind its known benefits for arthritic joints, helping your dog be active and happy into his senior years. Bigandt Photography | Getty Images
Fish oil is often recommended by veterinarians for canine arthritis. That’s because fish oil is a natural anti-inflammatory proven to provide relief to painful joints. A study published in the Journal of the American Veterinary Association concluded that arthritic dogs “had a significantly improved ability to rise from a resting position and play at six weeks (of supplementation) and improved ability to walk at 12 and 24 weeks, compared with control dogs.” That’s the thing, though. You need to give the fish oil time to work. It can take at least a couple of months for clinical improvement to be noted.
Benefits of Fish Oil for Dogs
In addition to arthritis, a fish oil supplement can help with:
Fish oil is usually derived from cold water fish, including salmon, sardine, and anchovy.
Fish oils are rich in omega-3 fatty acids, namely, eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA) and docosahexaenoic acid (DHA). EPA and DHA can act in an anti-inflammatory manner with benefits for skin, heart, kidney, brain, and joints.
Fish Oil Dosages for Dogs
You can start supplementing fish oil at any age, but discuss it with your veterinarian if your dog is still a puppy or on medications. Sooner is better than later for an active, athletic dog.
The recommended dosage of combined EPA and DHA (omega-3 fatty acids; see sidebar) depends on the condition being treated but ranges from 70 to 310 milligrams per kilogram (mg/kg) of body weight, which is 1 mg per 2.2 lbs your dog’s body weight. The National Research Council (NRC) says the upper safe limit is 370 mg/kg.
Some dogs can be sensitive to fish oils – especially if they have a history of gastrointestinal or pancreatic disease – so gradually introduce your dog to fish oil to make sure it’s tolerated. If a dog gets too much fish oil, the result can include oily diarrhea, vomiting, and pancreatitis.
If your dog is overweight, be sure to consider the fat content in fish oil in your dog’s calorie budget. If you are unsure how much fish oil should be given to your dog, please consult your dog’s veterinarian.
Buying Fish Oil for Your Dog
The U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) does not regulate the quality of supplements like fish oil. Please be sure you give your dog fish oil from a reputable source so that you are confident the product contains what is listed on the label and is free of contaminants like heavy metals or polychlorinated biphenyls (PCBs).
We recommend that you choose a fish oil supplement that has a National Animal Supplement Council (NASC) seal on it. The NASC is a third-party organization that ensures its member companies adhere to the NASC’s high standards for ingredient quality and marketing practices.
Many trainers of performance dogs use playing with toys in games like tug-o-war to reinforce their dogs. However, most behaviors are initially taught and strengthened with food rewards. Jetta Productions/Walter Hodges / Getty Images
I am sometimes asked how soon an owner can phase out the use of treats when training their dog. My answer comes in the form of a question: Why would you want to do that? Except for the rare occasions when your dog can’t eat temporarily for medical reasons, training with treats is the most effective way to teach your dog behaviors you want him to learn.
Granted, there may be times when you can’t use treats – for example, in the competition ring. For those times, you’ll need to have your treat reinforcement on a very thin schedule of reinforcement (you get treats after we leave the ring!) and introduce other reinforcers into your training.
Play can be a very high value reinforcer, even if you’re generous with treats. Some dogs get quite excited about a game of tug after a performance. Praise, properly paired with your happy voice, high-value treats, and a favorite game, can be a useful reinforcer when food and toys aren’t allowed.
With some rare exceptions, food treats are a universal reinforcer. Phasing out treats is like having your boss stop giving you a paycheck, and just patting you on the shoulder and saying, “Good job!” on payday. After a while you’re likely to stop going to work. So is your dog.
I always have treats in my pockets and I am quite generous with them. My dogs don’t get a treat every time they do something – but they get them very frequently. This dense schedule of reinforcement makes it quite likely that they will cheerfully do what I request, and my heart warms at their happy response whenever I ask for a behavior. What more could you want from your dog?
That said, it’s possible to train a dog with positive reinforcement and without food – it’s just not the fastest, easiest, or most effective way to go about it. For more information about how to train your dog without using food rewards, see “Positive Reinforcement Training Without Treats.”
It’s not unusual for dogs to be nervous at the veterinarian’s office with all its odd noises and smells. But some dogs refuse to even enter the building after a visit that included a painful vaccination or other bad experience. Clearly, that’s a memory. Credit: 3bugsmom | Getty Images
What is a dog’s memory span? Anecdotal evidence certainly suggests that dogs’ memories appear to be very good, and research suggests that dogs can recall past events. The memory span of dogs seems to vary, however, just as it does with humans.
Dogs Do Remember
We have no accurate way to tell exactly how dogs think or what they remember, since they can’t talk to us (obviously), but actions do speak much louder than words. Clearly, dogs remember things. Stories abound of reunions of people and long-lost dogs!
Dog Intelligence
Some dogs seem smarter than others, but are they really? The herding and guarding breeds – Border Collies, Australian Shepherds, Doberman Pinschers – appear to remember well, and they are consistently high on rankings lists for smart dogs. But they’ve been selectively bred and trained to obey humans’ commands and to react. Conversely, hunting breeds–terriers, hounds, Dachshunds–have been selectively bred to work independently and not to rely as heavily on humans.
Border Collies excel at dog sports because they learn quickly and willingly perform at speed. Credit: Luis Diaz Devesa | Getty Images
The top 10 dog breeds, ranked in order of intelligence by Stanley Coren, Ph.D., are:
Border Collie
Poodle
German Shepherd Dog
Golden Retriever
Doberman Pinscher
Shetland Sheepdog
Labrador Retriever
Papillon
Rottweiler
Australian Cattle Dog
The ability to recall events is called episodic memory, and there is a big debate among scientists about whether dogs possess this ability. They sure seem to, but do they really?
Research on Dog Memory
Claudia Fugazza, Ph.D., is an expert in canine cognition. She has done numerous studies using a technique called “do as I do,” in which she basically teaches dogs to imitate her. But she’s gone beyond that, teaching dogs certain exercises and then asking them to do exercises for which they’ve not been trained.
Dr. Fugazza found that dogs’ accuracy and speed decreases on untrained exercises, but that they do the tasks surprisingly well. This suggests that dogs have problem-solving abilities based on similar previous experiences. This means that dogs don’t just “live in the moment,” that they can remember things over time.
Dr. Fugazza’s research includes a 2016 study published in Current Biology that showed dogs likely have episodic memory and a 2020 study published in Scientific Reports that found dogs appear to use episodic memory. In the 2020 study, Dr. Fugazza noted that dog memory may fade a bit with time, just as it does for people.
On the other hand, a 2014 National Geographic study found that dogs only remember events or exercises for two minutes. Others have concluded a dog’s intelligence is equivalent to a 3- to 5-year-old child.
How much to feed your dog depends on your individual dog. Some need more calories, while others may need less. And every dog will tell you they need more food, but don’t listen. Credit: damedesso | Getty Images
How much to feed your dog depends on the dog’s size, age, genetics/breed, level of activity, and the food itself. Even whether the dog is spayed or neutered can make a difference in how much to feed your dog.
That’s why there are no official feeding guidelines for dogs. How much to feed your dog is a matter of calories, just as it is for us, and dogs vary widely on how many calories they need.
How Much to Feed a Dog by Weight
Calories in various brands of kibble range from less than 300 per cup to over 700 calories per cup, according to the American College of Veterinary Nutritionists. That’s a tremendous difference. Fortunately, most pet-food manufacturers now tell you how many calories are in a cup of their food.
As a rule of thumb, the number of calories your dog should be fed to maintain your dog’s ideal weight is referred to as the “resting energy requirement (RER).” To determine your dog’s RER, convert the dog’s ideal weight in pounds to kilograms by dividing by 2.2. Then multiply that number by 30 and add 70.
Calculating Your Dog's Calorie Intake
So, let’s say your dog’s ideal weight is 90 pounds.
Ninety pounds divided by 2.2 is 40.9 kg.
Now multiply by 30 and add 70: 40.9 x 30 = 1,227 + 70 = 1,297.
So, 1,297 is how many calories per day a 90-pound dog needs just to perform normal body functions (not additional exercise).
So, let’s say your dog’s ideal weight is 90 pounds. Ninety pounds divided by 2.2 is 40.9 kg. Now multiply by 30 and add 70: 40.9 x 30 = 1,227 + 70 = 1,297. So, 1,297 is how many calories per day a 90-pound dog needs just to perform normal body functions (not additional exercise).
Next, look at the food you’re feeding. Let’s say it contains 380 calories per cup. So, divide the number of calories (1,297) and divide that by 380, the number of calories in each cup of food: 1,297 ÷ 380 = 3.41 cups of food per day for an average 90-lb dog. But dogs aren’t all average, and every dog should receive at least some amount of exercise.
How Much Should Your Dog Eat
The University of Ohio Veterinary Medical Center says the RER must be multiplied by the dog’s energy needs and the RER then adjusted up or down to maintain a healthy weight. Individual dogs can vary widely from calculated values, so whatever figure you get still needs tweaking in order to reach and then maintain your dog’s healthy weight.
In order to lose weight, dogs who are obese should be fed at the RER for their ideal weight. Active, working dogs may need two to five times the RER to maintain weight. Average exercising neutered dogs need the RER x 1.6. Intact adult dogs with average work need RER x 1.8.
How to Tell if Your Dog is Overweight
If you can’t weigh your dog on a scale, at least run your hand over his body once a month. You should always be able to feel his ribs and, when you look down over his topline, you should see a waist at the end of the ribcage. If you can’t feel his ribs, your dog is too fat. A lower-calorie dog food might help some in these circumstances, but ultimately, reducing his daily portions will be needed.
“I tell my clients to take a hard, honest look at snacks and treats. Eliminate snacks and treats. For most dogs, I find that decreasing your dog’s meal portions by 25% is a simple, safe, effective approach to weight loss. If you’re training your dog and need treats for rewards, take some of the kibble he would get at mealtime and use that for treats,” says Eileen Fatcheric, DVM, in “Is My Dog Overweight?”
This label offers “suggested feeding amounts” that exceed what most people feed a dog. Remember, the dog-food manufacturer is in the business to sell more dog food. Credit: Nancy Kerns
Dog Feeding Mistakes to Avoid
Measure: Use a standard measuring cup to measure your dog’s food. Use level measures – no heaping the food over the top of the cup!
Nutrients: Choose a food that is formulated to meet recommendations from American Association of Feed Control Officials (AAFCO). Most adult dogs do fine on a “maintenance” food. Puppies, moms, and hard-working dogs need more calories, protein, and fat. These dogs need a food made for “all life stages.”
Schedules: All dogs should be fed at least twice a day—at least three times a day for puppies—on as regular a schedule as possible. Never put a dog on free-choice food. Most dogs will eat it all in one sitting—or at least try to; but even those dogs who don’t gobble it up quickly should not be free-fed. It will take you a lot longer to notice if a dog has lost his appetite if you allow him to “graze” all day.
Scraps: Don’t mess up all your hard work by giving your dog table scraps, unless there’s a need (such as a picky eater, a senior dog, or a dog who is on boiled ground beef or chicken with rice due to an upset digestive tract) or unless you reduce his regular food portion accordingly. Added “leftovers” should never represent more than 25% of his daily caloric intake, or you risk unbalancing a “complete and balanced” diet.
Paws playing in his usual 100MPH fashion at the “bad-dog dog park,” with weedy footing and the “bring your own dog water” requirement, which, fortunately for Paws, kept attendance light for many years.
When off-leash dog parks first began to be a “thing” a couple of decades ago, I was thrilled. At the time, I lived in a city of about 70,000, and the presence of large, securely fenced areas for dogs to run off-leash was a huge benefit to me when I boarded untrained dogs who needed a ton of exercise. Twenty-plus years ago, there weren’t yet crowds of people and tons of reactive dogs at the park; at most, I’d tend to see 10 to 20 dogs in the several-acre park – soured only once or twice a year, say, by a serious dog fight or scary interaction between reactive dogs.
There was one really nice park, with sandy soil, faucets for water, double “airlock” gates, and a separate area for small dogs; and a smaller space at the end of town that had single gates, no water, and weedy, rough footing. When I had a social butterfly of an energetic dog staying with me, I’d of course go to the nice dog park. When I was caring for a rowdy adolescent dog who was reactive or had poor social skills, I’d drive farther to take him to what I called the “bad-dog dog park” – I only ever saw other people who also had reactive or flat-out dog-aggressive dogs there. We could recognize each other by our over-alert, defensive behavior: our rush to leash our dogs and leave if anyone else arrived.
I actually came to appreciate the bad-dog dog park much more than the nice dog park, for the simple reason that hardly anyone went there, and I could almost always find it empty for at least 20 or 30 minutes to allow whatever reactive dog I happened to be caring for to burn off some serious steam – chasing balls or Frisbees, and playing vigorous, growly games of tug – without putting any other dogs at risk, or undermining work I was doing with those dogs to teach them not to become reactive to other dogs.
Paws, a yellow Labrador who belonged to a fellow editor friend, was one dog who I regularly brought to the bad-dog dog park. I often boarded Paws when his family went on vacation or just out of town for the weekend, and sometimes provided daycare for him when his family was particularly busy. Paws didn’t have an aggressive bone in his body, but he had been somewhat deprived of social opportunities when he was a puppy, and he had the rudest body language of any dog I knew. He was so excited to meet other dogs that, if given an opportunity, would fly toward the other dog at 100 miles per hour, slamming into them half the time because he didn’t turn on the afterburners soon enough. When a dog would understandably take exception to being slammed into at top speed, or would feel that it was necessary to slow Paws’ roll by growling or snapping at him, his excitement (arousal) level would be so high, that he’d often react with an honestly scared, defensive growl or snap back – and a brief scuffle might quickly ensue.
If, by some miracle, the other dog was friendly and confident enough to burst into a running, chasing, or wrestling game when Paws came in like a runaway freight train, there was no happier dog than Paws; that was his sincere wish. But meeting a large, strong, confident, happy playmate was rare; Paws hardly ever met one of those. That’s why I often made the trek with him to run and play at the weedy, crappy park that we usually had to ourselves.
Eventually, though, dog parks became so popular, that even the remote, scruffy, waterless dog park became nearly constantly populated with other social, friendly dogs – meaning that they were no longer appropriate places that I could bring Paws or other reactive dogs to. And around that time, I moved away from the San Francisco Bay Area.
Today, I have my own two-acre, securely fenced “dog park” of sorts. There are lots of places I can take my friendly, social dogs for off-leash hikes, because we practice snappy recalls constantly. However, when I’m caring for a dog (a friend’s dog, or a foster) whose recall is not yet reliable and they need exercise, I have enough fenced space to throw balls (even with a Chuckit!) and run a dog enough to get them tired. Buying a property like this, and spending thousands to have its perimeter fencing completed, was a long-time goal for me and I’m so happy to have it.
A company founded to connect dog people
What are people to do if they need (but lack) a safely fenced area to exercise their dogs, but have a dog-reactive dog – or just a dog who is afraid of or particularly vulnerable to other dogs? There is a company that has stepped up to help connect people like me, who have safe and private places for dogs to play, with people who need – and would pay to reserve time in – such a space! Sniffspot is a company that links people who have space for dogs to play with people whose dogs need places to play. It’s kind of like AirBNB for private dog parks.
Sniffspot’s home page contains the most vital and inviting information dog owners need to start engaging with the site: There are private, rentable places that would suit your dog nearby!
People who have space that they’d like to make available (for a fee) to other dogs owners can sign up to be Sniffspot hosts. An app makes it possible for people to reserve and rent the space in half-hour increments. The software ensures that the rental is private – no other users will be present at the same time. Sniffspot collects payments from the users (from $5 to $15 per hour, per dog) and distributes the payments to the hosts at the end of each month. The company also requires that users submit vaccination records and attest that the dogs have flea/parasite prevention on board, and provides $2 million of liability insurance and $5,000 of damage protection to the hosts.
Hosts are asked to answer a long list of questions about their property: its size, terrain, fencing, proximity to dogs or other animals, etc. They also submit photos of the amenities offered; between the property descriptions and photos, users can get a good idea of whether the space will suit their dogs. Hosts can make their property available for as little or as much time on as many days as they want, but all rentals are private, to prevent unwanted interactions (users can rent some properties for private playgroups). I might consider signing up to be a host at some point.
Our dog-training contributors often recommend that owners of reactive dogs, or dogs who are selective about their play partners, look for securely fenced places to take their dogs to run or play where there are no other dogs. We sometimes hear the complaint that such places are difficult to find, but now we have an answer to that grievance: Sniffspot is the perfect way to find places like this – not a “unicorn” request after all.
Never scold or punish a dog for urinating in the house – especially when the dog has been reliably housetrained until now. When you finally detmine the medical cause for the apparent regression in training, you will feel awful! Photo by Capuski, Getty Images
Contrary to popular belief, dogs are not capable of being spiteful. They do not pee in the house to hurt or annoy us. Previously potty trained dogs that have suddenly started urinating in the house are sending out a cry for help; they are having an issue we need to identify and address.
The problem that causes a dog to regress in housetraining typically falls into one of two categories: behavioral or medical. But sometimes there is more than one reason for house soiling; it may be a combination of both medical and behavioral problems.
Clues about the cause for a breakdown in housetraining
Take a look at how much water your dog is drinking and the size of the urine puddle they are leaving on your floor. If your dog is drinking more water and peeing a lot, these could be signs of kidney disease, diabetes, or Cushings disease.
If the urine puddles are small or you notice blood in the urine, then your dog may have a urinary tract infection, bladder stones, or a tumor of the urinary system. These dogs may also exhibit straining behavior when they urinate and will urinate more often.
If your dog is urinating near the door they use to go outside and potty, they may be having a mobility issue. Arthritis and other causes of bone and joint pain can make it unbearable for a dog to go up and down the steps to the backyard.
If your dog is leaking urine while they are sleeping, then your dog may have a condition called urethral mechanism sphincter incompetence, also known as spay incontinence. Although this condition is primarily seen in spayed female dogs, it is also rarely seen in neutered male dogs.
Canine cognitive dysfunction can cause a dog to forget his potty training. This is one of those instances where a medical issue causes a behavioral problem.
Behavioral problems that lead to house soiling include moving to a new home, a change in the dog’s daily schedule or routine, and separation anxiety. Medical problems should be investigated and ruled out before concluding that your dog’s house soiling is due to a behavioral issue.
First things first: Get a medical checkup
If your previously potty trained dog is now urinating in the house, schedule your dog for a veterinary checkup. Your veterinarian will need test results – including a complete blood count, chemistry panel, and thyroid test – as well as a urinalysis and blood pressure measurement in order to help solve the mystery. She may also recommend an abdominal ultrasound to examine the bladder and other urinary structures.
Once the underlying problem has been identified, your veterinarian will work with you to develop a plan to get your dog back outside to do his business!
Most dogs enjoy tug so much that many trainers use the game as a reward for accurately performing behaviors on cue. Photo by Morsa Images, Getty Images
Commonly called “Tug of War,” I prefer calling this wonderful game “Tug of Peace.” Once frowned upon as an activity that would reinforce aggression and other inappropriate behaviors – or be woefully inaccurately described as “dominance” – today’s educated dog training and behavior professionals recognize its great value for behavior goals such as exercise, impulse control, and confidence building. The caveat: The game must be taught and played properly in order to keep dogs and humans safe.
Rules for Playing Tug of War With a Dog Safely
Only tug sideways. Vigorous up-and-down tugging can injure your dog’s spine.
Tug gently for puppies and senior dogs. Healthy adult dogs can engage in vigorous tugging, but pups and seniors could be injured by too much tug-intensity.
Teach your dog to wait politely until invited to tug. Say “Wait,” then hold up the tug toy. If she jumps for it, say, “Oops!” and hide the toy behind your back. Repeat until you can hold up the toy and she doesn’t try to grab it. Then you can say, “Take it!” and push the toy toward her.
If your dog is already an aroused tugger – jumping on you, or nipping/grabbing the toy – stand on the other side of a baby gate or inside an exercise pen to play Tug.
Children only play Tug (under direct supervision!) with a dog who knows and respects the rules.
Your dog can play-growl during tug. You should be able to tell that this is playful by analyzing the rest of her body language: playful dogs have wagging tails and a loose, wiggly body. If she growls in an intense way, with hard eye contact, a stiff tail or body, grabs at the toy with a hard mouth and gets your hand, or moves toward you aggressively, Tug is not a good game for her. If you can’t tell whether she’s resource-guarding or playing, ask a force-free professional for help!
Don’t let anyone Tug with your dog who won’t follow your rules.
Tug, Yes Please!
Not all dogs enjoy tugging, but if your does, go for it! Play safely, enjoy, and if anyone tries to tell you it will make your dog dominant, politely walk away.
Watch how a dog responds when you offer to pet her. If she leans away (or moves away), she isn’t wild about what you’re offering. But if she leans in, or positions herself under your hands, she’s inviting you to pet her some more! Photo by Catherine Falls Commercial, Getty Images
Humans who love dogs typically love physical contact with dogs – petting, scratching, and cuddling. Recent studies even tout the health benefits of our canine-human interactions. But be aware that not all of our dogs love it as much as we do. Fortunately, there are ways to increase most dogs’ enjoyment of petting.
Where to Pet a Dog
Where should you pet a dog? That’s easy – where she likes it! But how do you know? Some dogs will tell you by backing up to invite a butt-scratch or nudging a nose under your hand for a head-rub. Others aren’t so obvious, in which case you can do “consent testing” to see what might be appreciated. Scratch the dog behind his ear, and then stop. Massage his shoulders briefly, and stop. If the dog stays close or even leans into you, he’s asking for more. If he moves away, he’s saying you didn’t hit the spot. Take a brief break, then invite him back and try a different petting location. (See: https://www.whole-dog-journal.com/training/how-to-communicate-with-your-dog/ )
How To Pet a Dog
Ideally, petting is relaxing for both canine and human. Slow petting with gentle pressure is the best way to accomplish relaxation. Deeper massage can also be good, or soft scratching behind ears, on the chest, or on the hindquarters. Your dog will tell you. If she rests her head on your lap, closes her eyes, and shows other signs of peaceful enjoyment, you’re doing it! If you want to pet a dog you don’t know, ask the owner, and/or let the dog approach you for contact rather than invading his space.
How NOT to pet a dog – and why you should not pat them on the head
I cringe when I see someone vigorously patting a dog on the head or thumping their sides. Newsflash: Most dogs do not like to be patted on the head!! Think about it. How would you like it if someone came up to you and started bonking the top of your skull? A few dogs might actually like it, some dogs will tolerate it, and others will flat out bite you if you reach to pat their heads. And thumping is anything but relaxing. So just don’t.
Most dogs do enjoy some form of physical contact with humans. Let your dog tell you what she likes. Then do it.
Trainers don’t like allowing dogs to greet each other on leash for behavioral reasons, but veterinarians don’t like this practice because it’s a great opportunity for dogs to spread any of the infectious causes of kennel cough. Photo by Isabel Alcalá, Getty Images
Canine kennel cough is an infection of the upper respiratory tract, specifically the nose, eyes, throat, and trachea. It is also known as infectious tracheobronchitis (ITB) or Canine Infectious Respiratory Disease Complex (CIRDC) – and it’s as ubiquitous in dogs as the common cold in humans. In fact, kennel cough is spread among dogs much the same way that upper respiratory illnesses are transmitted among people. Fortunately, there are more vaccinations that can prevent kennel cough (or reduce the severity of the illness) in dogs than there are vaccines that can prevent colds in humans!
Causes of kennel cough
There are several bacteria and viruses that are responsible for kennel cough. A dog may be infected with only one of these organisms but often have a co-infection of two or more pathogens.
Bordetella bronchiseptica is a bacteria that can cause kennel cough. It can either be the sole agent of a dog’s illness or it can cause infection secondary to a virus.
Mycoplasma is a bacteria that exists naturally in the respiratory tract of most dogs. But in the presence of another primary agent of kennel cough (like B. bronchiseptica or a virus), it may contribute to a dog’s clinical signs.
There are also several viruses that can cause kennel cough. These include canine adenovirus-2 (CAV-2), canine parainfluenza virus (CPiV), canine herpesvirus (CHV), and canine distemper virus (CDV). Canine coronavirus can also cause kennel cough but has no relation to the coronavirus that causes COVID-19 in people. The canine influenza viruses H3N2 and H3N8 have also been implicated in cases of kennel cough but are not the same as the influenza viruses that cause seasonal flu in people.
The viral or bacterial agents that cause kennel cough are spread when a sick dog sneezes, coughs, or rubs his nose on his bed, kennel wall, or human’s clothes. Photo by Nancy Kerns
Once a dog is ill with one of the primary agents of kennel cough, they can develop a secondary infection with one of the other primary agents or with an opportunistic bacteria. These opportunistic bacteria include Pseduomonas, Pasteurella, or the coliform class of bacteria.
Kennel cough is spread by close contact with infected dogs and their respiratory secretions. Respiratory secretions include aerosolized droplets from sneezing or coughing and saliva or nose and eye discharge that is left on bowls, blankets, floors, walls, and people’s clothes. It can be easily spread between dogs that attend doggie daycare, go to dog parks, or go to the groomer or attend training classes.
Just like with humans and the common cold, there is a period of time where dogs may be shedding one of the organisms responsible for kennel cough but are not yet showing signs of illness. This is called the incubation period. The incubation period varies by organism and can be as short as two days and as long as 14 days.
Vaccinating against kennel cough is important
One of the best ways to minimize the risk of contracting kennel cough is to ensure that your dog is properly vaccinated. Vaccines are available for B. bronchiseptica, CAV-2, CPiV, CDV, and both canine influenza strains.
The vaccine for B. bronchiseptica is available in three forms: an injectable form as well as intranasal and oral forms. The intranasal form is available for just B. bronchiseptica or is combined with the vaccine for CPiV. This vaccine is given once initially and then is boostered annually.
The vaccines for CDV and CAV-2 are combined with the vaccine for canine parvovirus. This vaccine is commonly known as the DAP vaccine (for distemper, adenovirus, and parvovirus). There is a version of this vaccine that includes CPiV. This combination vaccine is given every two to four weeks to puppies as young as six weeks old until they are sixteen weeks of age. It is boostered one year after the last puppy dose and then every three years after that.
The canine influenza vaccine provides some protection against both strains that have been identified in the United States. This vaccine is given initially as a two-dose series two to four weeks apart and then boostered annually.
It is important to remember that no vaccine is 100% effective. It is still possible to develop kennel cough even when fully vaccinated. If your dog’s infection is being caused by an organism for which they are vaccinated, then their illness will likely be milder and their recovery time should be shorter.
Other kennel cough prevention strategies
Unfortunately, neither we nor our dogs can live in a bubble to protect us from contracting respiratory illnesses. But there are some basic steps we can take to prevent the spread of kennel cough.
Talk to your doggie daycare provider about their infectious disease prevention protocols. Most reputable daycare providers have a documented cleaning strategy that is executed multiple times a day with periodic deep cleanings that are completed at least once a week. These providers also require proof of vaccination for each attendee. They should inquire with each dog parent about any recent coughing or sneezing before admitting a dog to the facility for the day.
You can also be proactive when setting up doggie play dates for your pooch. Ask each dog’s owner about their dog’s vaccination status and if their dog or any other dog in the family is or has been recently ill. Organisms that cause kennel cough can be shed in a dog’s respiratory secretions for up to 14 days after their clinical signs resolve. If there is any doubt about another dog’s health status, you have the power to protect your dog and reschedule the play date!
When it comes to dog parks – well, there is no way to know whether all of the dogs who have been brought to the park have been vaccinated or kept from the park when potentially shedding a virus or bacterial cause of kennel cough.
If your dog frequents the groomer, pick a facility that has a documented cleaning protocol for tables, cages, and grooming tools. You can also minimize your dog’s exposure to potential pathogens by picking up your dog from the grooming facility as soon as their spa treatment is complete.
During the warmer months, dog-friendly shopkeepers set bowls of water outside their shops to help keep our dogs hydrated on warm days. While this is a super nice gesture, these bowls provide a potential way to spread organisms that cause kennel cough in our dogs. Bring your own dog bowl and water and offer water to your pooch often while you are out on the town.
We cannot completely prevent all the potential causes of kennel cough – but we can minimize their risk of exposure to pathogens and the severity of their illness should they become ill. By being a proactive dog parent, you have the power to keep your dog safe and healthy!
The long, white whiskers on this pretty Cavalier King Charles Spaniel will help this dog navigate in poorly lit places. Credit: Victoriaarak | Getty Images
You can cut a dog’s whiskers, and they will grow back. The bigger question is, why do you need to cut your dog’s whiskers?
What Are Whiskers For?
Whiskers give the dog important sensory and protective information. Whiskers detect motion and are sensitive to air currents. If you touch his whiskers, your dog will often reflexively blink because of the information the whisker transmitted to the brain: Something is near the face, protect the eye! Whiskers serve an important sensory and protective function for your dog.
Dogs use whiskers to navigate in the dark. Whiskers help keep blind dogs, or dogs with another visual impairment, from running into objects. Whiskers work so well that many blind dogs can explore new environments so easily that a person watching could be fooled into thinking the blind dog can see.
What Are Whiskers?
Whiskers, also known as vibrissae, are specialized hairs that grow on the upper lip, chin, and above the eyes. Whiskers are present in many mammals, including dogs. Whiskers arise from specialized follicles in the skin and are thicker and stiffer than the normal coat. If the hair on your dog’s face is left to grow naturally, the whiskers often grow longer than the rest of the facial hair.
Cutting Dog Whiskers
Dogs have whiskers, but sometimes they are trimmed or clipped. This is often because in order to keep the fur on the face short, they are often clipped off with the rest of the facial fur, especially in breeds that grow longer facial hair, such as Poodles and Schnauzers. This helps to keep the face tidy, making it is easier to remove food or tear stains. Sometimes the whiskers are trimmed on dogs who compete in conformation (the Westminster Kennel Club show is an example of this), the rationale being that the whisker-free face presents a clearer picture of the dog’s head silhouette. Trimmed whiskers do eventually grow back.
If you’re worried about your dog and carbon monoxide poisoning, install carbon monoxide/CO detectors to protect you and your dog. Properly installed gas appliances that are well-maintained should not be a concern, but things can go wrong. CO detectors are critical for protection.
Credit: Catherine Falls Commercial | Getty Images
Carbon monoxide is just as deadly for your dog as it is for you. Don’t be fooled into thinking dogs can smell carbon monoxide and move away from it. Dogs cannot smell carbon monoxide. Carbon monoxide is odorless.
While there are reports of dogs refusing to go back into a home with carbon monoxide in it, it’s not because of the smell. It’s more likely those dogs are reacting to how awful they felt when they were inside versus how they feel outside in fresh air.
Signs and symptoms of carbon monoxide poisoning in dogs include:
Behavioral changes (fear, aggression)
Drowsiness
Incoordination
Vomiting
Trouble breathing
Exercise intolerance
Rapid heartbeat
Bright red lips and gums
These signs will progress to collapse, seizures, coma, and death, if the exposure continues.
Get the Dog Outside
If you’re worried your dog may be suffering from carbon monoxide poisoning, GET HIM OUTSIDE! The treatment for carbon monoxide poisoning is oxygen. Oxygen will eventually displace the carbon monoxide, but it takes hours.
If your dog shows any of the signs described above, get to the veterinarian as soon as possible. Dogs with any of these symptoms will be hospitalized for pure 100% oxygen therapy (room air is only about 21% oxygen) and all necessary supportive measures.
Severity of Carbon Monoxide Exposure
Dogs without symptoms of carbon monoxide poisoning may only require tincture of time in fresh air, but for your dog’s sake, check with your veterinarian to be sure. If you and/or your veterinarian are not sure whether there has been carbon monoxide exposure, a blood test called carboxyhemoglobin level can be run on your dog to determine exposure.
Severely affected dogs who show a lack of alertness or are comatose sometimes survive with aggressive treatment, although the prognosis is guarded. Those that do survive may later develop neurologic signs. This can happen anywhere from a few days to a few weeks after the event. It is called delayed encephalopathy, and it happens because of damage to the brain. The most common signs are deafness and blindness, and they are usually permanent.
Take Precautions
For your dog’s sake and your own, get your home checked by a heating professional. Remember, carbon monoxide is a byproduct of combustion, as in gas furnace, car, stove. Get recommendations for reliable, accurate carbon monoxide detectors—the EPA reports not all CO detectors are the same—and install them.
Carbon monoxide poisoning is better prevented than treated. Never use a gas heater or grill in unventilated areas. Never house your dog in your garage in case of accidentally leaving the car engine on, which is happening with increasing frequency due to super-quiet hybrid engines. And finally, if you don’t have carbon monoxide detectors in your home, get them.
How Carbon Monoxide Poisons
How does carbon monoxide poisoning happen? Carbon monoxide displaces oxygen off hemoglobin, the oxygen-carrying protein in bloodstream, and binds tightly to hemoglobin. This results in low oxygen levels in the blood (called hypoxemia), which results in low oxygen levels in the tissues (called hypoxia). No organs can function without oxygen.
I’ve had a number of older owners book lessons with me lately—more than half a dozen individuals and couples in their 70s and even 80s, all wanting some training help with their new dogs or puppies.
