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Boundary Training

dog winter portrait
We do not recommend the use of shock collars, or, as they are euphemistically called by the shock collar manufacturers, “electronic collars.” Some dogs respond to shock with serious unwanted behavioral side effects, such as fear-based aggression – and there is no way to know if your dog will be one who develops life-long behavioral side effects until after you’ve tried it. Photo by Anna Orsulakova, Getty Images.

Yes, it’s possible to train a dog to stay in your yard. But you must accept the fact that this training cannot be relied on to prevent your dog from leaving your yard if faced with something that’s tempting enough. Nor will it protect your dog from being attacked by another dog or wild animal, nor stolen by an admiring passerby. A physical fence is the best protection from all of these threats!

Even with these limitations, however, training your dog to stay within certain boundaries is a worthwhile project – especially in those neighborhoods with homeowners’ associations that prohibit fences. Just understand that you must ask for this behavior only when you are present, so you can take immediate steps to retrieve or protect your dog if needed.

We recommend approaching this training goal like any other behavior: by using positive reinforcement to teach the dog where we want her to be.

Boundary Train Your Dog

Here’s how to boundary train the force-free/pain-free way:

  1. Mark the corners of your yard with stakes. Attach a long rope (or ropes) around the perimeter to create a visual barrier.
  2. Have a selection of high-value treats in your treat pouch.
  3. Attach a long line to your dog’s collar or harness. Walk around the yard with her on a loose long line – no pressure on her collar – but short enough you can restrain her if she’s about to cross the boundary.
  4. Choose a new cue that means “stop and come back” – one specific to the boundary – not one you already use for training. Some suggestions: “Edge,” “Fence,” “Wall,” “Brink” – anything you want, it doesn’t have to literally mean “boundary.”
  5. Walk with your dog near the barrier. Anytime she approaches the rope use your cheerful “Fence!” cue and feed her a tasty treat. Soon you’ll see her perk up and look at you when you say “Fence!”
  6. Gradually move farther away from the boundary. When she approaches the edge, give your cheerful “Fence” cue and run a few steps toward the interior of your yard (away from the boundary). You want “Fence” to mean “Stop what you’re doing, come get your treat and have a party!” – similar to a happy recall. In time you’ll easily be able to ask her to move back from the border, and eventually you may not have to call her back at all – she’ll know to stop of her own accord. (You can still reward with a treat!)
  7. Next, add distractions – such as a person walking by – then try it without the long line.
  8. When she’s very solid, gradually lower the rope barrier, then remove it altogether (or leave it up if you want!).

With your very useful boundary cue installed you can be in your unfenced yard with your dog off leash and be reasonably confident she’ll stay in the yard, perhaps with an occasional “Fence!” reminder. Just remember: You should not expect this to work when you aren’t present. Sooner or later there’s a distraction tempting enough to compel almost any dog to cross that line.

Yorkshire Terrier Dog running on the green grass
You can teach your dog to stay in your unfenced yard, but you should expect to use this cue only when you are present. Photo by Yevgen Romanenko, Getty Images.
No shock collars

We do not recommend the use of any collar-based “training” systems, whether a buried wire or GPS is used to establish the boundary. The manufacturers have tried countless ways to convince people that these devices don’t hurt the dog, but face facts: They wouldn’t work at all if they weren’t painful – and no amount of pain can prevent some dogs from running through the shocking boundary zone if they are motivated enough. Countless stray dogs turn up in animal shelters wearing those devices. There’s currently a class action lawsuit filed in a California Federal court against Radio Systems, manufacturer of the PetSafe shock collar, in which the plaintiff claims the company falsely markets the collars as safe and harmless to use on animals, when they in fact harm pets.

Fido, Clean Your Room!

The more toys your dog has, the more useful it will be to teach him to put them all away! Photo by Anda Stavri Photography, Getty Photos.

Are you tired of finding dog toys strewn across your house? You can teach your canine pal to pick up his toys using “shaping” and “back-chaining.” Shaping involves breaking a behavior into very small steps. You train starting with the smallest step and build to the full behavior. Back-chaining links a series of behaviors together, starting at the end of the chain and working backward. Here’s how to use these training techniques to teach your dog to put his toys away:

  1. Select a receptable for your dog’s toybox. Put his toys in it and place it in an accessible spot.
  2. Pick up a favorite toy and hold it over the center of the box. When he glances at it, “mark” the behavior with a reward marker, such as the click of a clicker or a verbal marker (such as the word “Yes!”) and then give him a treat.
  3. Continue to mark and treat any attention to the toy, very gradually raising the criteria for which behavior you mark and treat. For example, after several repetitions of marking and rewarding your dog for glancing at the toy, hold out for a few moments longer, waiting for your dog to move his nose toward the toy a little – then mark and reward that. After he does that a few times, hold out for a little more movement toward the toy. Eventually he’ll touch the toy for a mark and treat. (For more guidance on this, see “Raising Criteria,” below.)
  4. When he consistently touches his nose to the toy, raise the criteria again. Now he must open his mouth a little. Then a bit more, and more, until he takes the toy in his mouth.
  5. Next, let go of the toy when he takes it. Mark, and when he drops the toy to take the treat – Voila! – it drops into the toybox. Milestone!
  6. Begin adding a toybox-specific cue such as “Clean up!” just before you offer the toy, continuing to repeat Step 5.

Now for the back-chaining part:

  1. After numerous repetitions of Step 6, gradually move the toy closer to the edge of the box. As you get close to the edge of the box, only mark/treat if the toy actually lands in the box. You’re helping your dog realize he must get the toy in the box to earn his treat.
  2. When he’ll deliberately move the toy to make sure it lands in the box, offer it just outside the box edge, then gradually farther away from the box.
  3. When he’ll drop the toy in the box from a few feet away, begin offering the toy to your dog with the toy held close to the floor, eventually setting it on the floor before you give your “Clean up!” cue.
  4. Last step – add a second toy, then a third and more, until he’ll pick up all his toys and put them away for you.

Congratulations, you’ve done it!

Raising Toy Box Criteria

Be sure to slowly raise the criteria that earn your dog a mark and reward. If you raise criteria too quickly, your dog no longer gets reinforce; he’ll think the game is over and will likely quit. Behaviors that aren’t reinforced extinguish, and you don’t want to do that!

It’s helpful to write out a shaping plan with many small increments in the program. Attain multiple repetitions at each step in the plan, and when you are ready to raise criteria, do it on an intermittent schedule of reinforcement. This means that when your dog offers his Step One behavior, you don’t mark, but rather wait to see if he offers a little more. If he does, mark and treat the “more” behavior, and then go back and mark/treat several repetitions of Step One before holding out again for a little more. Raising criteria gradually and continuing to randomly reinforce the lower-level behavior keeps your dog engaged and working. That’s what you need and want.

Your Kindness Is So Appreciated

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He didn’t actually walk on water – but he was a very good dog. Photo by Nancy Kerns

As one could predict, I was a bit of a mess last week. Making the euthanasia appointment for my beloved Otto, and being with him until it was time for the final injection, was just impossibly hard. It was the second-guessing that was most torturous – wondering at the moments when he seemed to be doing well whether this was the right decision.

I’ve had several friends whose dogs were suddenly stricken with a condition that either killed them or had an impossible prognosis, making immediate euthanasia the only rational choice. Is it bizarre to say that, as Otto passed his 15th birthday, I started to wish for such an event, a crisis that would take the “Is this the right time?” euthanasia decision out of my hands? But no such event occurred; I had to take full responsibility to decide whether and when Otto’s bad days were outnumbering his good ones. Making life-or-death, suffering-or-release decisions should be difficult, but man, was it taxing. And over the course of the week following I did all the things that humans tend to do when overwhelmed with grief: locked my keys in my car while getting ready for an early-morning walk with Woody and Boone (fortunately at home, where my husband was available to help sort this out once he woke up), couldn’t eat, then ate too much, burst into tears at random moments . . .

Maybe not completely random. Some of the puppies I haven been fostering for the past six weeks for my local shelter had neuter surgery and were up for adoption at the shelter. Two days after my husband and I buried Otto, I was training some new volunteers at the shelter when a young couple and their five-year-old daughter came in, looking for a puppy of a small-to-medium size to adopt. I raced to gather “my” puppies for them to meet in the shelter’s “get acquainted room”– I was disappointed that none of them had been adopted the first day they were available, and any one of them would be perfect for this family. Happily, the family chose one of the pups, and I got to see them preparing to carry him out of the shelter – the whole goal of my fostering and volunteering efforts, right? I said, “Wait! Let me say goodbye!” and I ran over to hold his little face in my hands and kiss him on the nose and say, “Be a good dog! Have a good life!” But then my face immediately crumpled and I barely choked out the words, “Thank you!” before rushing out of the shelter lobby, tears flowing. I wanted that adoption to happen – I practically forced them to take one of the puppies! – but the whole idea of just launching that little life out into the world with unknown people and an unknowable future … it just overwhelmed me for a minute.

People’s kindness also is overwhelming when you’re feeling raw. I would be perfectly functional, and then would receive a text or call from a friend saying, “I’m so sorry to hear about Otto!” and BOOM, the tears would flow freely again. I had cancelled a dog-training class I was supposed to teach the day before Otto’s appointment, and, early this week, thanked the class for accepting the postponement of that session. After class, some of my students (a couple) handed me a gift bag that held a bottle of wine and a fine chocolate bar – and immediately, again, I could barely choke out my thanks. They said, “We know what it’s like, we’ve lost some fine dogs over the years, it always hurts!”

All of your comments and messages, too – thank you, I so appreciate your kind remarks and remembrances of some of Otto’s early exploits. I have been reading them in short spurts, because it’s so emotional. It’s obvious that you guys get it, you’ve been there. Many of you shared stories about your own lost, sainted dogs, and those stories are painful and wonderful, too.

When we make the decision to love a dog, most of us expect to outlive them; the difference in our usual lifespans makes our surviving their death an almost certain event. We know what we’re getting into – that we’re signing up for some future pain – from the outset. And the more we love them, and the more that they love us, the more pain we can expect! So, I’m rolling with all of it – the sudden face-crumpling, on-and-off crying jags, and even the locking-my-keys-in-the-car moments – in memory and celebration of my very good dog. Thank you for allowing me to share him with you for all of these years, and for your appreciation of him, too.

Kong Filler Ideas

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The best kong filler ideas are both tasty and nutritious for your dog.
Looking for more Kong-filler ideas? Credit: The Kong Company

At some point, all owners of bored, anxious, or destructive dogs are told to try giving their dogs a food-stuffed Kong or Toppl – but unless the toys are properly packed, the food will be consumed too quickly, or not at all. Here’s how to fill the interior of the toys and tasty and nutritious Kong filler ideas so your dog will be motivated to work at the task of getting all of the food out – and so the process will take lots of time and diligence, which provides mental stimulation, relieves boredom, and keeps the dog from eating too fast.

What to put into a Kong or Toppl

To make a stuffed toy interesting, go beyond your dog’s usual kibble and peanut butter and employ a variety of healthy, delicious ingredients – and for maximum appeal, assemble the ingredients in layers. You can also stir the ingredients together before stuffing, but we’ve found that packing the various ingredients into the toys in layers keeps a dog engaged to the very end. Try different combinations of these canine favorite foods:

  • Unsweetened, salt-free peanut or almond butter (check labels to avoid xylitol, which is toxic to dogs).
  • Plain, unsweetened Greek yogurt, cottage cheese, or cream cheese.
  • Mashed, plain cooked sweet potatoes, carrots, peas, or green beans.
  • Baked sweet potato chews or crunchy crackers.
  • Chopped hard-boiled eggs.
  • Plain unsweetened applesauce.
  • Chopped or ground beef, turkey, chicken, or fish.
  • Canned dog food.
  • Fresh fruits like blueberries, strawberries, apples, bananas, or melon, cut into chunks or pureed.
  • Shredded coconut.
  • Any favorite kibble or dog treat.
West Paw also offers recipe inspirations on its website: westpaw.com/pages/toy-of-cooking. Photo courtesy of West Paw.

If assembling a toy to serve to your dog immediately, you can keep things tidy by temporarily sealing the top layer with a flat piece of cheese or a layer of nut butter. If you have time, or are filling a number of toys for use over a period of days, finish the preparation by putting the food-filled toys in the freezer. Frozen treats last longer and satisfy dogs by revealing layers of flavor a little at a time.

How to serve a food-stuffed toy

Depending on the hollow toy’s size, you can feed an afternoon snack, dessert, or even part or all of your dog’s dinner. Use appropriate proportions and ingredients for your dog’s size and feeding schedule.

Your dog’s crate or another protected location lined with a towel or mat is ideal for feeding a well-stuffed hollow toy. Colorful ingredients can stain floors and fabrics, and frozen treats can make a mess as they melt – and your dog will enjoy every minute!

The Best Dog Toys for Filling with Food

The classic Kong is a red, snowman-shaped rubber toy for medium-chewing adults (sizes XS, S, M, L, XL, and XXL), but today, the Kong also is available in a soft blue rubber for teething puppies, a tough black rubber for serious chewers, and a more flexible purple rubber for seniors.

West Paw offers two toys that are ideal for stuffing with food: the open-topped Toppl and the oval-shaped Rumbl. Both are made of Zogoflex, the company’s proprietary, nontoxic, durable, latex-free, recyclable, safe-to-chew material. Two Toppls of adjacent sizes (S and L, or L and XL) can lock together to form a more challenging puzzle. The bouncy Rumble has a unique “fish trap” opening that holds kibble and other dry treats in place.

Why Do Dogs Eat Cat Poop?

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Man picking up some dog poop
Apparently, dogs find poop particularly attractive no matter where they are. Credit: Antonio Diaz | Getty Images

You can stop your dog from eating cat poop by not letting him near the litter box. Sorry, but it’s as simple as that. Studies show that dogs who like to eat poop are going to eat poop, if they have access.

Mostly, cat poop is not going to harm your dog, but the litter that goes with it could. Clumping litters are extremely dangerous as they will expand inside the dog’s stomach. And other litters, although nearly always deemed “non-toxic,” may have crystals or scented flakes that could make your dog ill. A few pieces may not be a problem, but a consistent habit could bring you a big veterinary bill, especially if he gets an intestinal blockage.

Move the litter box to a place your dog cannot access it by using cat doors or a baby gate to prevent the dog from getting to the box. Some people place the litter box in the basement. Others sacrifice a bathroom cabinet with a small access hole in it that the dog can’t use. A simple method is a baby gate that the cat can easily leap to access his box in one room. Most dogs won’t jump the gate.

Medication Doesn’t Stop Poop Eating

Fortunately, not all dogs eat poop, but enough of them do for manufacturers to develop products to deter them. Save your money.

A 2008 study by researcher Broox Boze determined that available medications and poop treatments to stop dogs from eating poop are not effective, although the younger the dog, the better your chance the medication may help. According to Boze, the only reliable recourse is human intervention. Keep your dog away from the poop (or litter box).

A 2018 study published in Veterinary Medicine and Science from Dr. Benjamin Hart tried 11 different products designed to stop poop eating and found none were effective. In tabulating the results from their study, the researchers determined that most dogs who eat poop are greedy eaters, a behavior that is difficult to change, and that age of the dog has nothing to do with it. You may be relieved to learn, however, that most dogs ate fresh stools, which were defined as no more than two days old.

Why Dogs Eat Cat Poop

Cat poop may be especially, well, tasty, because cats are often fed a high protein/low fiber diet—they are, after all, obligate carnivores—and, according to a 2013 study in PLOS ONE, that results in poop with a high protein content. Protein will attract your dog, especially the one who really loves to eat, umm, whatever.

Dr. Hart’s researchers hypothesized that dogs eat poop due to an ancestral behavior designed to keep the wolf den clean and free from parasites, so it may be due to an instinctual drive to clean up the litter box and help keep your home clean.

Of course, dogs don’t just eat cat poop. They also eat horse poop, wild animal poop, and even their own poop and that of their friends and not just at home. There are a lot of other theories floating around with no consensus beyond keeping your dog away from poop.

False Pregnancy in Dogs

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Black and white dog carrying spotted soft dog toy in mouth, on frosty grass covered in Autumn leaves
Some dogs experiencing a false pregnancy will become protective of their toys, as if they were puppies, and may even show signs of maternal aggression. Credit: Elva Etienne | Getty Images

False pregnancy, also known as pseudocyesis, is a condition caused by hormones in an intact (unspayed) female dog and 89% of the dogs show mammary enlargement, according to research published in BMC Veterinary Research. It is not dangerous and usually goes away within two to three weeks. Some dogs, however, can show maternal aggression.

A false pregnancy can manifest four to nine weeks after signs of heat stop, indicated by no more bloody discharge from the vulva.

Symptoms of a False Pregnancy

Research shows that 96% of dogs with a false pregnancy show are associated with mothering objects. While it might appear cute because she’s carrying around her “puppy,” you should be aware that the behavior also can take the form of maternal aggression, especially if she feels her “puppy” is threatened.

Signs include:

  • Enlarged mammary glands, possibly with milk
  • Weight gain or enlarged abdomen
  • Maternal aggression
  • Nesting behavior
  • Possible lack of appetite

If she is a performance dog, she might not be able to practice or compete at full mental and physical capacity, especially when she feels she has another “responsibility.”

What Is a False Pregnancy?

When a female dog goes into her heat cycle (estrus), the hormones produced by her ovaries prepare her body for pregnancy and motherhood. Blood flow increases to the uterus, the vulva enlarges, and the mammary glands become more prominent.

If the female is mated, and the pregnancy is successful in producing live puppies, this suite of reproductive hormones continues to drive the physical and behavioral changes that support motherhood, including milk production, nesting behavior, and puppy care.

If she is not mated, or the breeding is not successful, she can experience false pregnancy, and she can still experience the same group of changes to her body and behavior as if she were genuinely pregnant.

False Pregnancy Treatment

Most dogs who experience this do not require treatment. False pregnancy usually goes away within two to three weeks. Massaging or milking your false-pregnant dog can prolong the amount of time it takes for the mammary glands to shrink and stop producing milk.

If there is no intention of breeding a female dog, and she experiences false pregnancy, spaying her could considered. Removal of the ovaries will remove the source of hormones responsible for the condition.

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Vitamins for Puppies

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Cheerful puppy runs on the grass
The best vitamins for puppies are found right in a bag of quality dog food marked for all life stages, including puppy. Credit: Anita Kot | Getty Images

A dog food that states on the label it meets Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO) standards for all life stages is all your puppy needs for proper nutrition. Food with this label already contains the best puppy vitamins and is nutritionally complete, so puppy supplements are unnecessary.

It’s important to understand that adding supplements to your puppy’s already complete-and-balanced diet can create imbalances, toxicities, or synergistic effects among nutrients (see sidebar). So, instead of purchasing a vitamin supplement for your puppy, invest in a high-quality, complete, and balanced puppy food.

Food Freshness

Vitamins differ from minerals in that vitamins degrade over time. Minerals are relatively stable compounds. Because of this, the best thing you can do to ensure your puppy gets optimal nutrition is to purchase the right size bag of food, which is the one your puppy will consume within four to six weeks. By regularly providing fresh food to your puppy, you are ensuring he is getting the optimal levels of nutrients before degradation of vitamins begins.

Say No to Puppy Vitamins for Growth

Be sure to select a formula that is appropriate for the size dog you have. Large and giant breed puppies – defined as puppies expected to weigh 70 lbs or more as adult dogs – require diets formulated specifically for them, and you will find that phrase added to the AAFCO nutritional statement on the bag. By providing your puppy a complete source of nutrition, you can be confident that you are setting them up for success. Note: Formulations for large-breed puppies contain slightly lower levels of calcium, phosphorus, fat, and calories.

Wasted, Lethal Vitamin Supplements

Vitamin supplements are routinely recommended for people and growing children, but remember that most humans consume diets that are not formulated by nutritionists and are not complete and balanced. For this reason, human doctors may recommend multivitamins to fill nutritional gaps. With dogs and puppies, however, overdoing vitamins can be a waste of money or even harmful.

Vitamins are divided into two categories, fat-soluble and water-soluble:

  • Water-soluble vitamins are not stored in the body, and any excess is flushed out of the body and excreted in the urine. Since the water-soluble vitamins your puppy needs are already provided in the food you give them, any excess will be unused and filtered out by the body.
  • Fat-soluble vitamins can be stored in the body, however, and have the potential for toxicity if over supplemented. Vitamins A and D are of specific concern when it comes to toxicities in dogs and can be lethal at high enough levels.

Carprofen Is an Anti-Inflammatory Drug for Dogs

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Senior Dog Waiting at Top it Steps for Help
Carprofen for dogs is an anti-inflammatory drug that combats pain. It has few side effects and is useful to combat arthritis, which may make some dogs hesitant to do things like go navigate stairs. Credit: BGWalker | Getty Images

Carprofen for dogs is a prescription non-steroidal anti-inflammatory (NSAID) veterinarians prescribe to treat joint pain and inflammation from injuries and arthritis, as well as post-operative pain. It was originally sold as Rimadyl, but now many generic brands exist. As with any NSAID, chronic usage. such as in treating arthritis, can lead to ulcers in the gastrointestinal (GI) tract.

The incidence of GI side effects is low but can include:

  • Vomiting
  • Diarrhea
  • Constipation
  • Lack of appetite

Additional Side Effects

Although rare, carprofen can cause liver failure, which is why liver enzyme values should be monitored when a dog is on the medication for a long time. The reported rate of this adverse effect is low, about 0.05%. Carprofen also may make some dogs sleepy.

Cautions with Carprofen

Carprofen can be given to dogs as young as 6 weeks old but should not be used in dogs who have a bleeding disorder or a known intolerance to other NSAIDs. Carprofen should be used with caution in dogs with gastrointestinal disease, liver disease, and kidney disease. It should not be used in conjunction with any steroid.

Overdosage of carprofen can cause gastrointestinal effects (vomiting, diarrhea, ulceration) and liver and kidney damage. An overdose requires immediate consultation with a veterinary poison control hotline and a trip to the nearest veterinary emergency clinic. At the clinic, treatments could include induction of vomiting, administration of activated charcoal, and intravenous fluid therapy.

Carprofen is useful for dogs in pain, and it is a good economic option for dog owners because of the availability of generic forms. Carprofen is available for oral dosing and for injection.

Tribute to our Fallen Leader

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I first spotted Otto in a jail-mugshot-type photo on my shelter’s website in June 2008. My husband had just agreed that we were ready to have a dog again, three years after the loss of my much-adored Border Collie, Rupert. Can you believe that it took three years of only fostering for the shelter and dog-sitting for family and friends before I had recovered from the loss of Rupert to seriously consider owning a dog again? But within minutes of my husband’s agreement that it was time, I spotted Otto’s photo and emailed the shelter to ask if they would hold him for me – make him unavailable to others – until I could get there the next day.

Truthfully, there were two dogs I was considering: Otto, and a young hound-mix. But Otto, then an estimated 7 months old and a friendly, if somewhat reserved scruffy-faced guy of about 40 pounds, was the one I chose to bring home “for a trial” – and of course, he never went back to the shelter. My husband mock-threatened to send him back several times in the first few days that we had him, as Otto spent any unsupervised minute digging holes under any plants we watered in the yard. It took me those first few days to realize he was just hot and looking for a cool place to lay down, and I ran out to get all the materials needed to build him a nice big damp sandbox in the shadiest corner of our yard. Once he had a legal place to dig a big hole and lay in it, our ornamental horticulture was safe.

The digging wasn’t the only behavioral challenge we dealt with in the early years, though it was the most easily resolved. It became clear that Otto, who had been brought into the shelter after being found in someone’s chicken coop (with dead chickens), had probably gone stray or been dumped at an early age. He had good street survival skills – he could (and would) pick and ripe blackberries from wild vines, and made a beeline for any fast-food bags or other food-smelling trash on the street – but he didn’t know anything about living in a house, did not like being in a car, and was uncomfortable with humans in the first couple of years we spent together. The microwave beeps, vacuums, doorbells, and the Geico caveman on the TV all elicited barking and a hasty retreat from the house. (The caveman triggered the most dramatic reaction; he never seemed to pay attention to the TV, but when he saw that hairy guy, he leaped to his feet barking and growling.) Most of that faded away with time, but his phobia of slippery floors persisted through his lifetime.

And despite the shelter’s warning on his cage card that he “Kills chicken” (a typo that will make me laugh until the end of my days), he never killed or even chased any of my free-range chickens. By the time he was 3 or 4 years old, the slippery-floors quirk was about the only thing keeping him from perfect sainthood – but surely saints have quirks, too?

He was always a night owl – probably because he also hated the heat his whole life, and where we live is hot from June well through September. In all but the coldest months, he preferred to sleep outdoors, at least for a few hours. To be let out, he would come and pant loudly just outside my (open) bedroom door – he thought the floor in our hall was too slippery to attempt in all but the most dire emergencies. To be let back inside, he would give the front door one careful scratch of a front paw – so careful that the door is dirty but not scratched. In response to that sound, I can walk to the door to let him in or out in my sleep, and have done just that thousands of times in the past couple of years, as he grew more and more restless and uncomfortable with pain and a bit of nighttime dementia. But as unreasonable as his desire to go in and out several times a night could be at times, his request was always polite (and respected).

Otto accepted a never-ending parade of foster dogs and taught countless foster puppies how to introduce themselves to adult dogs respectfully. He never hurt a single puppy, though he would roar a terrible roar if they didn’t heed the early warning rumbles of disapproval at an over-eager approach. He would beat a hasty although dignified retreat when vastly outnumbered, but if a lone puppy who was calm and polite came toward him, she would be rewarded with a slowly waving tail and an approving sniff – but that’s it. He wasn’t here to play with puppies; they could follow him around the property if they behaved themselves, but that’s all the familiarity they could brook. Even Woody, the Pit Bull-mix who came to our home seven-plus years ago as a 3-week-old foster puppy (along with eight siblings and a dog-aggressive mother) and never got sent back to the shelter, who grew to be taller and heavier and stronger than Otto but never stopped seeking Otto’s attention and approval, was treated like a rude puppy: “If you calm down and behave yourself, you can be near me. If you act like a fool, you will be treated as such.”

Somehow, his boss-like but benevolent demeanor inspired instant deference in every dog and puppy he met. Recently, I was visited by a friend and her standard Poodle, who can be a bit of a bully with other dogs. I held the Poodle’s leash, and was ready to intervene quite robustly if the Poodle pulled any crap whatsoever with my wobbly old guy – but that’s not how Otto presented himself to newcomers. As rickety as he was, he drew himself up, head high, tail waving, chest rumbling – and damned if that bully Poodle – who was a bit of an ass with friendly, happy Woody – didn’t immediately defer and disengage, putting his head and tail down and keeping his eyes elsewhere. Even he knew not to mess with the king.

Otto was the first dog I owned who I trained only with positive-reinforcement-based methods – and I think that was critical to helping him gain confidence in those early years, and develop into the unfailingly polite and responsive dog he was for the rest of his life. He loved training – he would insert himself into any training session with any dog he overheard me training, and compete for the rewards like an overeager third-grader who knows all the answers in math class. Somehow, this was endearing rather than annoying, and it certainly helped model the desired behaviors for the slower pupils I was actually working with – social learning is a thing!

Speaking of social learning, he taught Woody, Boone, and many of my friends’ dogs his greatest skill: standing still to pose for the camera. His portraits are innumerable and (I think) stunning. His calendar and magazine appearances are countless.

His other impressive skill was a recall that was immediate and enthusiastic, and even though he couldn’t hear me calling him in these past few years, he could still hear handclaps, which I would use to get his attention, and when he would turn to look for the source of the clap, a hand signal would still bring him as fast as he was able.

That wasn’t very fast, lately. He was on four different medicines for his arthritis pain, and watching him walk was certainly painful for me. And he couldn’t trot anymore – but he could and still would swing into a lope for short distances when he was really fired up, like when he spotted one of his imaginary enemies, the trucks of UPS, FedEx, and the United States Postal Service. (Our carrier liked to egg him on, and would often honk or call him as she drove by.)

Given his more or less constant arthritis pain, he suffered with the heat last summer – heat that lingered and worsened as the summer wore on. In September, he grew so miserable that I actually made an appointment for euthanasia for the following week. He liked being cool, but hated being indoors; he wanted to be outside, but it was hot. Panting, he’d ask to go out and then back indoors again multiple times an hour, seemingly forgetting why outdoors was not a viable option each time. Providentially, the heat finally broke that weekend, and by the time the vet arrived, it was 20 degrees cooler and he acted like his old self: dignified, gracious, interested. We adjusted his pain medication protocol and he lasted nine more months.

This winter and spring were kind to him. We had tons of rain, which came with mild temperatures; he often slept through rainstorms in his sandbox under its patio umbrella. I don’t think we had a single freezing night. And then in May, we had one or two warmish weeks, which immediately increased his discomfort, but then it cooled down again in an atypical way for this area. It’s almost as if the world was conspiring to keep him here longer. I started fantasizing that he’d make it to his 16th birthday. But it was a race against time, because his legs steadily lost muscle, particularly in the rear end, and his joints grew more and more lax. Viewed from behind as he walked, he resembled a puppet being controlled by an inattentive puppeteer who kept lowering the puppet’s control apparatus – his legs buckling and twisting in ways that hurt to watch. And he started to fall, and worry about falling. After a fall, he would struggle to get back to his feet and visibly resent any help I gave him; it seemed an affront to his dignity. He started holding his ears back and down almost permanently, panting in a tense grimace as he made his habitual, determined rounds of our property.

The last straw was the failure of his appetite. About a week ago, he started turning down meals. I tempted him with a can of something, which would work for one meal, and he’d refuse it at the next meal. He turned down raw eggs (an old favorite), scrambled eggs, and leftovers from our meals. He would still take my most reliable secret weapon – Stella and Chewy’s Meal Mixers – if I fed them one at a time like a treat, but when I bought some in patty form and put them in his bowl as a meal, it was a no-go. Without him eating, with the temperatures rising, I made another appointment.

I have heard many people say – hell, I’ve said it myself to several of my friends – that it’s better to give our beloved canine friends the permanent sleep too soon than too late, but that was before I had to make that agonizing decision myself. I am not sure I will repeat that advice as easily again. I didn’t want such a good dog to suffer, and told him so again and again as I held him and stroked that smooth hair on the top of his head, as the veterinarian made the final injection. But I miss him so much that I am not sure I can judge whether it was the right thing to do right now. No matter what I decided was going to cost me dearly.  Paying for the lifetime of love and connection and fun and comfort he gave me should be costly; it was priceless.

Degenerative Myelopathy in Dogs

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German shepherd, Canis familiaris
Degenerative myelopathy, caused by a genetic mutation, is often seen in the beautiful, athletic German Shepherd Dog. Credit: Auscape | Getty Images

Degenerative myelopathy (DM) is a progressive neurologic disorder in dogs that strongly resembles amyotrophic neurodegenerative disease (ALS), or Lou Gehrig’s disease, in people. Unfortunately, there is no effective treatment or cure for this devastating disorder, but physical therapy (PT) is scientifically proven to make a difference in the quality of life and longevity for dogs with DM.

Symptoms

Symptoms of DM usually become apparent when the dog is 8 or 9 years old and start with weakness and incoordination in the hind legs (see sidebar). Dogs typically progress through the stages of DM over the next one or two years, with the final stages affecting all four limbs and the diaphragm, which makes it difficult to breathe. DM typically ends in euthanasia.

Physical Therapy

PT slows the clinical progression of DM and keeps dogs ambulatory much longer than dogs that don’t get PT.

Intense physical therapy for DM includes professional sessions (once or twice a week) combined with daily recommended exercises at home. At PT appointments, in addition to massage and core-strengthening exercises, your dog with receive laser treatments and underwater treadmill therapy.

Diagnosis

The disease is caused by a mutation in the SOD-1 gene, which is responsible for protecting neural tissue from damage by cell-damaging free radicals. Free radicals are created by oxidative stress in the body. There is no definitive test for DM that can be done while the dog is alive.

The German Shepherd Dog is the poster child for this disease, but it happens in other breeds as well, including mixed breed dogs. Breeds most commonly affected include:

  • Bernese Mountain Dog
  • Boxer
  • Chesapeake Bay Retriever
  • Corgi
  • German Shepherd Dog
  • Rhodesian Ridgeback

DNA testing for dogs is available, so peace of mind is possible if your puppy comes from negative parents. If you have your dog tested, bear in mind that having the mutation does not necessarily mean the dog is doomed to suffer from DM. It only means he is at risk for the disease.

The DNA test also can help solidify a diagnosis of DM in a clinically affected dog.  A clinical diagnosis of DM is one of exclusion, which means all other things that could cause similar symptoms must be ruled out before calling it DM. These include:

  • Bilateral cranial circulate ligament (CCL) rupture
  • Bilateral hip arthritis
  • Lumbosacral stenosis (LSS)
  • Intervertebral disc disease (IVDD)
  • Tumors or other disease of the spinal cord

Orthopedic x-rays, MRI, and spinal tap to assess cerebrospinal fluid are useful diagnostic tests, but if your dog fits the mold based on symptoms, breed, age, and a positive DNA test that might be enough to call it DM. A trial course of pain management/anti-inflammatory medication might be suggested to assess response to treatment. Orthopedic disease might respond favorably, DM would be unaffected.

Stages of DM in Dogs

Early stage

  • Hindlimb weakness
  • Hindlimb incoordination/mild swaying
  • Difficulty rising
  • Scuffing hind feet/worn toenails

Mid-stage

  • Extreme hindlimb weakness
  • Frequent slipping, sliding, falling on hindlimbs
  • Inability to stand for long
  • Knuckling of hind paws when walking and/or standing
  • Extreme incoordination/crossing of hind limbs/swaggering/swaying

Late stage

  • Complete paralysis of hind limbs (a cart can be used for continued mobility)
  • Urinary incontinence or inability to urinate (requires manual emptying of bladder)
  • Fecal incontinence

End stage

  • Forelimb paralysis (fully recumbent, can no longer stand, walk, or use a cart)
  • Paralysis of diaphragm (difficulty breathing)

What Causes Cherry Eye in Dogs?

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French bulldog with cherry eyes symptom sitting at field.
Dogs with cherry eye may not be able to fully close their eyelids, making them vulnerable to bacterial infection and corneal injury. Credit: PTG Pro | Getty Images

Cherry eye in dogs is caused by a breakdown of the tissue fibers in the dog’s eye. It is a prolapse (displacement outward) of the gland of the third eyelid, also known as the nictitating membrane, or nictitans. Breeds with brachycephalic skull conformation have almost seven times the risk of experiencing cherry eye, according to one study, compared to other dogs.

Early-Stage Cherry Eye

Cherry eye appears without warning as a smooth pink lump located near the inner corner of the eye. It usually occurs in dogs 1 to 2 years old. In the early stages, most dogs are not affected by it.

Home Treatment

If you want to manage cherry eye at home, be sure you know what that you have diagnosed it correctly and it’s not a red eye. To treat cherry eye, you must keep the eye clean, including the corneal surface, by using a safe eye wash solution (human solutions are fine) daily. Artificial tears ointment applied a few times daily will help protect the exposed cornel surface from injury (again, human products are fine).

If there is swelling of the gland, your veterinarian may prescribe steroid drops as needed. If secondary bacterial infection develops, your vet may prescribe an ophthalmic antibiotic ointment. Your dog will have to be monitored for the development of dry-eye syndrome, or keratoconjunctivitis sicca (KCS), which is done with periodic Schirmer Tear testing. KCS is extremely uncomfortable and can cause vision loss.

Surgical correction is recommended to prevent secondary issues. Untreated dogs with cherry eye cannot fully close the eyelids, so they are more prone to corneal injury and secondary bacterial infection.

Genetics

Cherry eye is believed to have a hereditary component in dogs. Commonly affected breeds include:

  • Beagle
  • Bloodhound
  • Boston Terriers
  • Chinese Shar Pei
  • English Bulldog
  • English Cocker
  • French Bulldog
  • Great Dane
  • Lhasa Apso
  • Newfoundland
  • Pekingese
  • Saint Bernard
  • Shih Tzu

Note: If you have an English Bulldog with cherry eye, don’t mess around. See a board-certified ophthalmologist as soon as possible. Cherry eyes in this brachycephalic breed are particularly challenging, and recurrence rates after initial surgery are high.

Surgery Cost

The cost of cherry eye surgery varies depending on where you live, if one or both eyes are affected, whether your regular veterinarian can do the surgery or you are referred to a specialist, and the size of your dog (the larger the dog, the higher the costs of anesthesia). An estimated range is $500 to $1,500.

Surgery involves anchoring or tacking the gland back down, or creating a pocket with overlapping edges that holds the gland back down in place. The longer the gland is out of place, the more difficult the surgery, making surgical complications like recurrence more likely.

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