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What’s the Ideal Feeding Schedule for Dogs?

By
CJ Puotinen
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5
Dog looking at hand holding bowl with dog food
There is no “one-size-fits-all” dog feeding frequency that guarantees health and longevity; it’s more important to make sure your dog receives an appropriate number of calories. Photo by Cris Cantón, Getty Images.

A study that made headlines in 2022 found an association between dogs who were fed just once a day and a lower likelihood of having a variety of health problems. However, one of the study’s authors, Matt Kaeberlein, Ph.D., Professor, Department of Laboratory Medicine and Pathology and the University of Washington School of Medicine, says this correlation should not spur owners to change their dogs’ feeding schedules.

The study was conducted by researchers at the Dog Aging Project, which since 2019 has collected data on thousands of companion dogs of different ages, sizes, and breeds in an effort to understand how genes, lifestyle, and environment influence aging. Studies of intermittent fasting and time-restricted feeding in laboratory rodents have shown beneficial health outcomes. The Dog Aging Project’s researchers wanted to investigate whether there were associations between feeding frequency and a number of broad categories of health conditions (such as cognitive dysfunction, gastrointestinal, dental, orthopedic, kidney/urinary, and liver/pancreas disorders) in dogs.

In each of these categories, dogs fed only once daily were less likely to be diagnosed with health problems than dogs who were fed twice or more often per day – but, Kaeberlein says, “It’s important to recognize that correlation does not equal causation, and there are many possible explanations for this observation, which is why more detailed studies are required. For example, dogs fed once a day may be less likely to be obese, and we know that obesity is associated with a variety of health risks in both dogs and humans. So my advice would not be to change the frequency at which people feed their dogs based on our study, but instead focus on making sure that your dog is getting a nutritious diet and maintaining a healthy weight.”

How Many Times a Day Should a Dog Eat?

Puppies are generally weaned around the age of 6 to 8 weeks, and should be given three or even four meals a day, in order to prevent hypoglycemia (low blood sugar). As pups mature, they become increasingly able to maintain stable blood sugar levels for longer periods of time, and by the age of six months, their meal frequency can be reduced to two a day. By the time they are fully grown, dogs are perfectly able to subsist on just one meal a day, but this is largely a matter of owner preference. Some owners impose a one-meal-a-day feeding regimen on their dogs while others feed two or three times a day. There is no single feeding schedule that guarantees health and longevity. However, the total amount that is fed to a dog each day will critically impact his health. Overfeeding any dog leads to obesity, and obesity practically guarantees health problems.

Discuss the amount of calories your dog or puppy should be eating with your veterinarian to determine how much food to feed your dog daily. Once you know how many calories he should eat in the form of a complete and balanced diet, you can divide that number of calories by any number of mealtimes you’d like to feed, whether that’s one, two, three, or even more. As long as the amount of calories he consumes in a day doesn’t increase out of proportion with his age and ideal weight, the number of mealtimes won’t matter.

Professor Kaeberlein, who is one of the founders of the Dog Aging Project as well as a co-author of the study on the frequency of meals, has one dog, an elderly German Shepherd named Dobby. Dr. Kaeberlein says he feeds Dobby three meals a day and his weight and overall health are good.

Why Does My Dog Only Eat When I’m There?

By
Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA
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dog wont eat
If your dog doesn’t eat unless you’re home, it’s a clear indication that she’s stressed at being left behind. Photo by Christopher Bernard, Getty Images.

A surprising number of dogs won’t eat when their owners aren’t home–but rush to gobble their food as soon as their family returns. The most common reason your dog doesn’t eat when you’re gone is that she’s stressed – and a stressed dog is a cause for concern.

“But my dog doesn’t seem stressed,” you may protest. If your dog is stressed only when she’s left alone, and her stress level is low enough that she’s not acting out in other ways, it may be that you just aren’t there to see the main manifestation of her stress behavior – the fact that she won’t eat when you’re not there.

Dog training professionals often advise clients to leave dogs with a stuffed Kong or other slow-feeding dog toy to keep them entertained and to reduce their stress while their humans are gone. If your dog won’t eat when you’re away you can’t make use of this valuable enrichment tool. And it’s never a god thing when your dog is too stressed to eat!

What to Do About Your Dog Not Eating

First, do a test to see if she’ll eat if another human is present. This will tell you if it’s low-level separation stress (she has to be with you) or isolation stress (she’s okay with any human as long as she’s not alone). Then set up a cell phone, laptop camera, or security camera to take video of her while you’re away to she if she shows other signs of being worried, such as pacing, panting, or vocalizing.

If there aren’t other signs of stress, her worry-level is probably mild, and you may be able to help her with an over-the-counter supplement such as L-theanine (check with your vet first!).

If she’s more distressed, your challenge goes beyond anorexia; you have more than just mild stress. If that’s the case I suggest you seek the assistance of a qualified force-free professional; there are some who are certified to work with separation anxiety; they would have the initials “CSAT” (for certified separation anxiety trainer, certified by separation anxiety specialist Malena DeMartini) or “SAPro” (for a “Separation Anxiety Pro” trainer, certified by Julie Naismith). For more information, I suggest reading Separation Anxiety in Dogs by Malena DeMartini.

Remember, if your dog is stressed, she needs help. Give it to her!

The Best Dog Shoes

By
Lisa Rodier
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The author’s Bouvier, Atle, has sensitive paws. Walks and playing on the beach in the summer near their home leave his pads raw – particularly his front feet. Wearing shoes enables Atle to continue his favorite activities in his favorite place. In this photo, he’s wearing our second-placed boots, Canadian Pooch’s Hot Pavement Boots. Photo by Lisa Rodier

When you hear “dog shoes,” the first image that comes to mind is likely canine footwear for winter conditions – snow and ice – or rugged, rocky terrain. But dog shoes – or dog boots (as they are interchangeably called) – also protect dog paws from lots of other hazards:

  • Paw injury (pads/skin between pads)
  • Sensitive paws (pads/skin between pads)
  • Slipping (shoes provide traction for senior or disabled dogs)
  • Allergies (especially pollen)
  • Environmental concerns (lawn chemicals, salt, etc.)
  • Sharp or uneven surfaces (gravel, broken glass, etc.)
  • Hot pavement or sand in the summer

My 11-year-old Bouvier, Atle, has atopy and very sensitive paws. We spend a lot of time at the beach, and while he loves being there, sand tends to abrade his paw pads. He was a perfect candidate to test a variety of shoes meant for all-weather or warm-weather wear.

How We Choose the Best Dog Shoes

The dog’s paw is an exquisite mechanism. The abuse they gracefully counter is astounding. Paws provide traction, stability, and steering. Dogs feel the ground through their paws. While dogs mostly cool themselves by panting, the sweat glands in your dog’s paws act as another cooling mechanism. Any damage or discomfort to your dog’s footpads, interdigital spaces, nail folds, or nails can also lead to an altered gait, causing injury and imbalance throughout the body.

So when we endeavor to put shoes or boots on those paws, it’s critical that they are designed to fit well, to stay securely in place, and be made of materials that enhance their fit and comfort.

We tested six best-selling, all-weather dog shoes from companies with a reputation for manufacturing quality dog products and rated them according to these criteria:

  • Our dogs’ survival and safety rely on their innate sense of proprioception. We’re looking for shoes with flexible soles that aren’t too dense and don’t affect the dog’s gait. We also want softer uppers that “give” to avoid rubbing dewclaws or carpal pads or affecting the range of motion in the carpal (wrist) joint.
  • If we expect the dog to walk any distance, the boot needs to be comfortable, ideally sitting and fastening just below the wrist (at least on the front paws). It’s helpful if the manufacturer offers the boots in a lot of sizes, so our dog’s paws are neither being squished nor slipping around inside the boots. Other factors that contribute to a shoe’s comfort include its weight and “ankle” height, and how the boot is secured to the dog’s foot.
  • The boots should last more than a couple of outings. We’re looking for a boot that won’t fall apart and is built to last without being bulky, heavy, or overbuilt.
  • Can we toss them in the washing machine? How easy is it to put the shoes on? Is there a bright color option so that the boot can be easily spotted if it falls off? And, a minor but useful point: Is the boot’s size printed on the boot itself?

The Best Dog Shoes: Ruffwear Grip Trex

Ruffwear started designing dog boots in 1997, and their designs have evolved over time. The Grip Trex is a lightweight, low-profile boot with a mesh upper and a rubber Vibram sole. It uses a hook-and-loop cinch closure and has a gusseted design to provide a wider opening that makes it easy to put them on the dog.

As we tested these products over a couple of months, we kept going back to this shoe. Initially, we doubted whether it would stay on because of the low profile, but it has consistently stayed put and not slipped down the paw. We like how easy it is to get the shoes on and secure them without overtightening, the reflective trim, the lightweight sole that offers traction, and the breathable mesh upper, which somehow does a great job of keeping dirt out. These boots are machine washable, and the size is printed inside the closure strap. Best of all, Atle could easily walk, trot, and run while wearing these shoes.

The company’s customer service is highly responsive. Ruffwear reminds customers to check the size of the front and back paws before ordering and sells their boots in pairs, because front paws are typically wider than back paws.

The Best Dog Shoes for Hot Pavement: Canada Pooch’s Hot Pavement Boots

Canada Pooch was founded in 2011 and, despite what appears to be a focus on fashion, produces some boots that are worth a look.

The Hot Pavement Boots have a mesh polyester upper and a thin rubber sole. They sport a hook-and-loop closure, a toggle at the top of the boot for extra security, and a strap at the back to help pull up the boot (note that with a hairy dog like Atle, the toggle can be a little difficult to access and use). The shoes are soft, breathable, easy to put on, and very lightweight. Their softness helps with positioning to avoid affecting the dog’s wrist movement. The boots stayed on and in place without slippage and didn’t seem to affect Atle’s gait. The shoe size is on a tag on the side of the shoe.

Concerns: After some use and one washing (the company recommends turning the boot inside out for washing, which is challenging to do), we discovered small tears on the sole near the front seam. Happily, the company was quick to respond and send a replacement set. Also after washing, the soles seemed to lose their shape. Finally, there is a good amount of seaming inside the toe of the boot. It didn’t cause problems for Atle, but we’re not sure if that would present an issue for other dogs.

We like the shoe, especially for hot weather, but are unsure of longer-term durability.

The Best Dog Croc Shoes: Wagwear’s Wagwellies Mojave

While Wagwear has been in existence since 1998, they look to be a fairly recent entrant to the shoe market with their riff on Wellington (“Wellie”) boots. This shoe represents a shift from the typical dog shoe “look” and the material is reminiscent of the rubbery “jelly” shoes  for humans that were wildly popular in the 1980s.

The shoe is a 100% rubber slip-on with a hook-and-loop closure. The Mojave has perforated holes on top for ventilation (think today’s Crocs) and is meant for hot and dry weather.

I really didn’t expect to like these boots, but they grew on me for their relative light weight, simplicity, ease of use, and Atle’s ability to easily ambulate while wearing them.

The sizing was a little quirky – we originally purchased a large, which was too small. The company quickly made an exchange for an XL. Although their customer service was responsive, it was a challenge to find their contact information on their website; they appear to offer primarily a weekday online chat option.

What we didn’t love about the shoes are that the large holes allow in some debris; they need to be hand washed; and the stiffer top of the shoe could potentially irritate a dog’s dewclaw. Nonetheless, the shoes stayed on nicely, and while the upper is stiffer than fabric uppers, the sole is flexible and allows for proprioception.

The Best Dog Shoes for Winter: Muttluks’ Original All-Weather Boots

Muttluks has been making dog boots since 1994, offers a wide variety of styles, and has great customer service. The “All Weather” was one of the first entrants to the performance dog boot market and was one of our former top picks for winter dog boots.

The shoe is made of nylon with a lightweight lining inside. It has a ribbed cuff, a flexible suede-like sole (made of treated leather), and a Velcro hook-and-loop fastener.

We like the quality, the light weight, and the superb flexibility of the sole and the upper. Comfort and ease of use are where we have questions. The ribbed cuff rides a little high and can interfere with the carpal pad on the wrist joint, which can cause chafing and potentially impact movement of the joint. We found that nails – even if cut short – can easily snag on the cuff and very hairy dog legs can be challenging to stuff into the cuff.

It’s also easy to overtighten these shoes. We did so by accident when we had to tighten them to prevent them from slipping down the paw. We realized the error when Atle balked and seemed in distress.

When properly secured, these shoes do not impact the dog’s gait, do a good job keeping out debris, are machine washable, and the size is on a tag on the side of the boot. They would protect against hot pavement, but we’d opt not to use these in the heat; they are less breathable than the other boots we reviewed.

The Best Dog Shoes for Narrow Paws: Muttluks Mud Monster

The Mud Monster is comparable in design to Ruffwear’s Grip Trex shoes. The Mud Monster has a breathable mesh upper, a rubber sole, and a “double wrap” Velcro closure. The shoe features a gusseted design which initially helps to get the paw in, but the measurement across the forefoot of the shoe is narrow. We ordered a size 6 (medium), but the boot was too narrow, so we exchanged it for a size 7 (medium/large), but even the larger size seemed to run oddly narrow across the widest part of the paw.

The height of the shoe is pretty tall – almost 1 1/2″ taller than the Grip Trex – and may impact the wrist/carpal pad. The sole, while pliable, is not quite as pliable as that on the Ruffwear Grip Trex, and we have yet to master the double-wrap Velcro fastening closure. Surprisingly for Muttluks, the size is not visible on the boot.

The shoe design is very attractive, but there are just too many areas of uncertainty for us to fully embrace this product.

Not recommended: Kurgo’s Blaze

This shoe seems to try to cover every base, with all the features we liked in its competitors: It’s water-resistant, breathable, and made with a tightly woven nylon mesh and synthetic leather upper,  a super lugged sole, a gusset that makes putting it on easier, and a hook-and-loop closure with a toggle to help secure the boot at the top. The company was quick to respond to an inquiry and the size is stamped inside.

Unfortunately, the result is a heavy product with a sole that we found to be too stiff. Also, the shoe is tall and we found that it interferes with the carpal pad and wrist movement. Atle took on a very stilted gait when walking in this stiff-soled boot. And to cap it off, they must be hand washed. We are challenged to recommend this product, particularly for all-weather/hot-weather wear.

Try Some On Today!

A set of boots is a useful addition to anyone’s dog-care toolbox, particularly for hot weather concerns and highly allergic canines. They can also be invaluable if your dog slices or scrapes a paw pad and needs protection while healing. Your dog’s conformation will influence which shoe will work best for her, but we’re confident that our top picks are the best candidates to start with.

Pro Tips for Using Dog Shoes
  • Measure your dog’s paws twice, front and back, before ordering. All of the dog-shoe makers provide measuring information on their websites, but reach out to customer service if you have any questions.
  • Front paws are often slightly larger than hind paws. If this is the case with your dog, look for a company that sells its shoes in pairs rather than a set of four, so you can get different sizes for front and back.
  • Allow your dog time to acclimate to his shoes. Introduce shoes to your dog long before he’ll need to wear them for a specific event or situation. Distract him with play and/or treats – whatever works!
  • Do not overtighten your dog’s shoes!
  • It’s important to spot and solve shoe-fit problems as quickly as possible. If using boots on a long walk or hike, frequently give them a visual check to make sure they are staying in place. Remove them and check your dog’s paws whenever you stop for a rest.
  • A shoe may fall off … Use an indelible marker to write your phone number on the inside of each boot or on a laundry-proof stick-on label. Maybe you will get that boot back!
  • Do not leave shoes on an unsupervised dog.
  • In hot weather, when your dog’s paws may be particularly sweaty paws, use some talc-free anti-chafing powder in each boot before putting them on your dog. (Try Coat Defense Daily Preventative Powder for Dogs; see coatdefense.com.)
  • Tractioned cotton socks or a lightweight rubber disposable boot (i.e., Pawz, from pawzdogboots.com) may be a better option for improving a dog’s traction on slippery floors indoors.

Best All-Weather Shoes for Dogs, From First to Worst

WDJ RatingProduct Maker Name/ Maker’s WebsitePrice Sizes/ColorsSize Tested Weight of 1 BootNotes
4 pawsGrip Trex Dog Boots Ruffwear ruffwear.com/products/grip-trex-dog-boot-pairs$40/pair8 sizes (1.5" - 3.25")

3 colors (black, green, red)		2.75"/75 mm

48 grams		Our top pick. Easy to put on, secure fit without overtightening. Good range of sizes. Machine washable. Made in Vietnam.
3 ½ pawsHot Pavement Boots Canada Pooch canadapooch.com/products/hot-pavement-dog-boots$51 -$61/set of 46 sizes (1-6)

2 colors (blue/green, pink)		Size 5

40 grams		The lightest shoe we reviewed. Soft, breathable, secure. Easy to put on and position for maximum comfort. Machine washable. Made in China.
3 pawsWag Wellies Mojave Wagwear wagwear.com/products/wagwellies-mojave$49 /set of 47 sizes (XXS-XXL)

5 colors (blue, orange, black, pink, green)		XL

55 grams		Lightweight, easy to put on. Very breathable (sort of like Crocs for humans) but poor at keeping dirt, sand, or debris out of the boot – best for use on pavement. Good range of sizes. Made in China.
2 ½ pawsOriginal All-Weather Muttluks Muttluks muttluks.com/products/original-all-weather-muttluks$66 - $88 set of 48 sizes (“Itty Bitty” - XXL)

2 colors (black or yellow)		M

42 grams		Good range of sizes. High cuff keeps debris out but makes putting the boots on a little more difficult, especially for long-haired dogs. Better for cold-weather wear; might be too hot for warm weather. Machine washable. Made in Canada.
2 pawsMud monsters Muttluks muttluks.com/collections/dog-boots/products/mud-monsters$50-$65/pair10 sizes (XXS-XL)

4 colors (blue, gray, orange, purple)		7 (M-L)

67 grams		Similar in overall design to Ruffwear’s Grip Trex, but the execution isn’t as good. The boot is taller and stiffer than that competitor. These boots are also some of the narrowest we tried. Great range of sizes available. Machine washable. Made in China.
0 pawsBlaze Dog Boots Kurgo kurgo.com/outdoor-gear/blaze-dog-boots$34.95/pair6 sizes (XXS-XL)

1 color (black/gray)		Medium

71 grams		Not recommended: Heavy, bulky, tall, hot – and needs hand-washing! “Imported.”

Is Dog Agility Right for You and Your Dog?

By
Cindy Foley
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diane pach
Diane Eggleston ran her own agility training school for 15 years and now teaches at a local obedience club. She’s shown here (center) after her Vegas earned his PACH, which is an AKC agility championship. Photo courtesy of Diane Eggleston

Dog agility is as fun as it looks! It’s easy to get started in dog agility. The only agility equipment you need to start is a low jump or two, which you can make yourself by setting a PVC bar on top of two short buckets or cinder blocks. Add in lots of praise and high-value treats, and you’re on your way. For more on the sport of agility, see sidebar, below.

If you and your dog find this intro fun, you’ll soon want to invest in some real agility equipment. “The most basic equipment I would recommend would be at least four jumps and 12 weave poles,” says Diane Eggleston, an experienced agility instructor and highly successful competitor (see video of Eggleston running her Papillon dog Vegas). Eggleston ran her Awesome Abilities Agility training school for 15 years. She now teaches a few classes a week at the Syracuse (N.Y.) Obedience Training Club.

A set of 12 weave poles costs between $375 and $600. A jump with wings is around $200. Without wings, a jump is $125. Be careful not to purchase inferior flimsy equipment. Look for competition equipment, which is made to the requirements of the different dog agility organizations, like the American Kennel Club, Canine Performance Events, the U.S. Dog Agility Association, and more.

As your interest grows, so will your desire to add equipment, such as a tunnel. For most competitors, having access to the more difficult (and more expensive) obstacles at a training facility is enough.

Fitness Matters

Agility is physically hard on dogs, which means the dog needs proper training and conditioning. “A dog should have good structure and be physically able to do all the running and jumping involved with agility. This is not a sport for overweight dogs,” says Eggleston. “If the dog passes the physical criteria, the other important thing to consider is whether the dog having fun. Some dogs do not enjoy the sport. I hate to see dogs running slow and pokey because they are only doing it because they love their owner,” says Eggleston.

Starting your training in an agility foundation classes with an experienced trainer is money well spent. Getting the right start is critical. The agility trainer can evaluate your dog and help you determine the best approach to get him fit and keep him happy. He or she will also train you, so you can cue the dog properly. If you don’t ask the dog to do something correctly, he won’t know what you want. “When training your dog at home or anywhere else never blame the dog for the handler’s errors,” says Eggleston.

Dog Agility Benefits

Agility is an addictive team sport. For most of us, it’s the challenge of training your dog, seeing his excitement, and spending time with people who share a common interest. Agility builds a dog’s mind, body, and soul, and enhances your bond with your dog. But you do need to train with the right attitude. Remember that agility is not about winning, although that is certainly fun. Agility is about spending time with your best friend doing something you both enjoy.

What Is Dog Agility?

Dog agility is a timed event with obstacles the dog races through or over. Speed and accuracy are important to your success. The run is always off leash, and handlers communicate with the dog using verbal cues and body language, motion, and positioning.

No rules dictate what cues you use for your individual dog, and many handlers have their own set of words for various obstacles, turns, and speed. But there are commonly used terms, like break, left, right, check, dig, wait, and more. You’ll train verbal and body cues that tell your dog to turn right or left, make a tight turn (called a wrap), take an obstacle from the opposite/back side, slow down, move ahead quickly (go!), and more.

Most dogs quickly learn the names of the obstacles: jump, tire, tunnel, table, A-frame, and dog walk (walk it!), and you’ll hear many handlers repeat the term three times as the dog approaches the obstacle. As the dog becomes more confident in your communication, his speed naturally increases. That is one of the many reasons why agility handlers say, “The dog is never wrong.”

A dog should have foundation handling skills before starting agility, knowing how to walk quietly on leash, stay when cued, and has a strong recall (return to you when called). He doesn’t need to be an obedience dog, but he does need the basics.

Classes are divided by the dog’s height and experience, so you’re competing against similarly sized dogs and dog-handler experience. You move up levels of competition as your dog qualifies (does the course well enough to achieve a set qualifying score at a required minimum speed). There are regional and national competitions that you earn the right to compete in by achieving a set number of qualifying scores. All organizations have championship titles as well that are highly sought after and require a consistently good dog-handler team.

Any dog can do agility, but it does require a level of athleticism and attitude to excel. Among the best breeds for agility are Border Collies, Papillons, Shelties, Australian Shepherds, Malinois dogs, Golden Retrievers, many terriers, and a huge number of mixes. A great agility dog has “drive,” which is a term for a dog’s motivation. These dogs seek out and jet away to the next obstacle.

Puppy Warts Are Rarely a Problem

By
Dr. Eileen Fatcheric, DVM
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Old dog with papillomatosis
A wart caused by the papilloma virus has a classic appearance, being light pink to soft gray in color with a cauliflower-like surface. Credit: Todorean Gabriel | Getty Images

The dawn of doggy day care brought an increase in cases of puppy warts. Puppy warts are caused by canine papilloma virus and are extremely contagious. At doggy day care, dogs and puppies are playfully mouthing each other and sharing toys and water bowls, so the virus can spread like wildfire.

The warts typically develop in the mouth, and there can be lots of them. They can be on the tongue, the lips, the roof of the mouth, and the inside the cheeks. They are ugly for sure, but problems only occur if they become infected and cause pain.

Diagnosing Puppy Warts

Puppy warts occur most frequently in dogs 6 months to 2 years old due to young dogs’ less mature immune systems. These warts have a classic appearance, light pink to soft gray in color with a cauliflower-like surface, so they are easily recognizable. The warts will regress and disappear as the dog mounts an immune response against the virus. It can take several weeks to several months for the warts to go away.

If you have a young dog who goes to doggy day care and develops these classic lesions, your veterinarian will likely diagnose puppy warts based simply on history and physical examination. If you have an older dog who does not attend doggy day care, your veterinarian will likely recommend a biopsy to rule out worse things.

Puppy Warts Treatment

Luckily, the puppy papilloma virus is benign (not harmful), and usually no treatment is required other than tincture of time, unless the warts become infected, painful, or interfere with eating. Antibiotics are indicated for infection. The warts can be surgically removed or frozen off if necessary.

The good news is that a dog is unlikely to ever suffer from puppy warts again, thanks to the immune response. The bad news is that your puppy must stay home from doggy day care while suffering from puppy warts, and for two months after they are gone, due to the long incubation period of this virus.

Car Chasing

By
Nancy Kerns
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dog chasing cars
Phoebe listens for oncoming cars. A couple weeks ago, I had to keep her on leash to prevent her from chasing any car driving by our house. Now, thanks to a ton of practicing (and treats) I can call her back to me if I notice her watching/waiting/listening for cars in time.

Phoebe, my little foster mama, is a car-chaser, and, unfortunately, we have a perfect property for her to practice her passion. I live on a roughly square two-acre parcel situated at the corner of two rural roads, so fully half of our property line is fenced and parallel to a road. This makes it fun for Phoebe to chase passing cars on either road – whose drivers are probably oblivious to her as she speeds, barking, down the fence line – but especially fulfilling when one slows and turns the corner, traversing both roadside fence lines before disappearing down the road out of sight.

When dogs engage in behaviors we don’t like, the solution is always (at least) two-pronged: You need to both teach the dog what you would prefer that they do in the given situation (mostly by reinforcing a behavior that’s incompatible with the behavior you don’t want), and you need to prevent them from being reinforced for doing the behavior you don’t want.

In this case, that means keeping Phoebe from being able to chase the cars, by keeping her on a leash any time she’s not locked up. Car-chasing, like chasing squirrels, cats, shadows, bicycles, joggers, or anything else that moves, is highly reinforcing for some dogs. Chasing is part of the “predatory sequence” that is encoded in every dog’s DNA. The full sequence is defined by ethologists as ORIENT > EYE > STALK > CHASE > GRAB-BITE > KILL-BITE > DISSECT > CONSUME. Some dogs barely display even a single part of this sequence, but  the selective breeding we’ve done over millenia has resulted in some breeds that display specific parts of this sequence quite strongly. The herding breeds are masters of the orient, eye, stalk, and chase parts; dogs who go on to do more than nip at the animals they are supposed to be herding tend to get culled from the population. Protection dog breeds have been bred to excel at the grab/bite phase of the sequence, and, again, get culled if they go farther than that. But certain hunting dogs, such as those who are used to hunt for wild pigs and bears, are prized for their abilities to kill their prey.

Whatever genetic inheritance Phoebe possesses, the chasing bit clearly fills her with adrenaline and endorphins. Fortunately for me – or more specifically, my free-range chickens – she doesn’t seem to have any tendencies toward the grab/bite or any further part of the sequence.

I’ve mostly been preventing Phoebe’s opportunity to chase cars by keeping her contained in a 10-foot by 10-foot pen with her five puppies. But they are now 6-plus weeks old and she is rapidly tiring of their demands to nurse. They don’t need to nurse anymore. They are eating canned and soaked dry food several times a day, and even munching on dry kibble between meals. I equipped the pen with second doghouse on a raised platform so she could escape the pups when she needed a break; at this point, she spends virtually all of her time in the pen up there, out of their reach.

But the arrangement won’t last long. The gang of puppies just mastered the stairs to the deck on the back of my house. Until a few days ago, when I let them out of their pen to play on the lawn, I could run up those stairs so they would stop following me and biting my ankles. Now, they gleefully bound up the stairs after me; it won’t be long before they can get up on Phoebe’s platform. When that happens, she’ll have to go back to the shelter to start the next part of her journey: getting treatment for her heartworm infection, getting spayed, and getting adopted.

Teaching an incompatible behavior

The second important part of getting rid of the car-chasing behavior is teaching the dog (through reinforcement) an incompatible behavior.  I’ve been working hard on teaching Phoebe one very simple behavior that is incompatible with car-chasing: coming when called. I won’t review all the steps for that here, but will instead just point you toward past in-depth articles that teach this important behavior.

“Daily Practice Makes for Perfect Recalls”

“Rocket Recall”

She’s doing much better already; it helps that she’s extremely motivated by yummy treats (having been starved before she came to the shelter and also from the demands of nursing). I can already call her back to me when I see her hear an oncoming car and she rises to her feet before launching her charge. If I fail to notice her noticing the oncoming car, however, and she starts her run before I call, she’ll still come back to me about half of the time, which is 50% better than she was three weeks ago. I’m hoping by the time she has to go back to the shelter, we’ll have a solid recall off of cars at least 80% or more of the time.

Metronidazole for Dogs Works Like Magic

By
Dr. Eileen Fatcheric, DVM
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Female veterinarian giving medication to dog owner in veterinary surgery
Magic, mysterious, malevolent metronidazole: This drug works like magic for most cases of diarrhea in dogs, but it’s mysterious because how it works is not well understood. And, sadly, it has a malevolent side in the form of a rare but serious side effect called metronidazole toxicity. The point is that, as wonderful as metronidazole is, it’s still a prescription drug for good reason. Credit: Wetemd61 | Getty Images

For simple diarrhea in dogs, metronidazole is usually the first thing your veterinarian recommends. Although metronidazole is an antibiotic by class, it works as an anti-inflammatory on the intestinal mucosa. As such, regardless of what is causing the inflammation that is resulting in diarrhea, metronidazole cools the flame. So, whether the diarrhea is due to stress, a diet change, dietary indiscretion (aka eating “dumb stuff”), or even a parasite or virus, metronidazole often helps, and research shows it can help quickly.

Metronidazole Dosage for Dogs With Diarrhea

Typical metronidazole dosage for dogs for treatment of non-specific, simple diarrhea in dogs is 5 to 10 mg/kg (milligrams of metronidazole per kilogram of the dog’s weight) twice a day for five days.  Metronidazole is a prescription drug dispensed as a 250 mg or 500 mg tablet. You need to know which you have.

For some dogs, a single dose is sufficient, especially when stress is the cause.

For chronic diarrhea, if metronidazole works and all other known causes of diarrhea have been ruled out, the condition is given the name “antibiotic-responsive diarrhea.” How it works is a mystery. That it works is a fact.

What Metronidazole is Used for in Dogs

In dogs, metronidazole is also used to treat:

  • Biopsy-confirmed inflammatory bowel disease (IBD), although steroids also may be necessary
  • Giardia, a protozoan intestinal parasite, although fenbendazole is the treatment of choice
  • Anaerobic bacteria, which are mostly found in the gastrointestinal tract and underneath the gums (periodontal disease)
  • Clostridial intestinal infections
  • Certain liver and gall bladder infections
  • Liver disease resulting in neurologic impairment (hepatic encephalopathy)

When metronidazole is used as an antibiotic, the dose range is typically 10 to 15 mg/kg twice a day.

Side Effects of Metronidazole for Dogs

Metronidazole toxicity is rare, but it can occur, usually with high doses given for an extended period. It shows up as sudden onset of severe, neurologic derangements, including:

  • Seizures
  • Tremors
  • Stiffness
  • Head tilt
  • Incoordination (ataxia)
  • Dilated pupils
  • Confusion
  • Nystagmus (rapid eyeball jerking back and forth)

With discontinuation of the drug, most dogs fully recover within a few days. Treatment for metronidazole toxicity is supportive care.

Additional, less scary but possible side effects of metronidazole include:

  • Nausea
  • Vomiting
  • Diarrhea
  • Loss of appetite
  • Weakness
  • Bloody urine
  • Lethargy
  • Weakness
  • Neurologic derangements

One final note: With the increased importance of antibiotic stewardship to combat increasingly alarming rates of antibiotic resistance, your veterinarian may be reluctant to immediately prescribe metronidazole upon request for diarrhea. Trying a probiotic and bland diet may be suggested first for good reason.

Yeast Infection on Your Dog’s Paws

By
CJ Puotinen
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A cute English Springer Spaniel Dog, lying down in a field licking his paw surrounded by daisy flowers.
Dogs with allergies, skin folds, and excessive hair between the toes are prone to yeast infections in their paws. Springer Spaniels have a higher incidence of Malassezia infections than most breeds; they can also suffer these infections in their ears. Photo by Sandra Standbridge, Getty Images

Spore-producing yeasts or fungi normally live on canine skin without causing problems, but they can sometimes spread out of control. When a yeast infection on dog paws happens, a dog’s paws will become highly itchy, prompting the dog to lick them. In a very short time they become red and irritated, may develop a cheesy, musty, or pungent odor, and a brown discharge can develop in the nail beds.

The culprit is usually Malassezia pachydermatis, a yeast species that multiplies in warm, moist environments. This overgrowth is most frequently associated with dog allergies, which also cause itching, prompting the dog to lick his feet; the moisture and damage to the skin sparks the yeast overgrowth. A cut, abrasion, or other injury to the paw can also trigger licking and a Malassezia infection.

Diagnosis of Yeast Infection on Dog Paws

The paws’ appearance and odor makes a yeast infection diagnosis easy, but a veterinarian can confirm this by examining some of the dog’s skin cells under a microscope.

Dogs with skin folds, excessive hair between toes, and underlying health conditions or autoimmune disorders may be susceptible. The breeds most associated with paw pad yeast infections are Bulldogs, Cocker Spaniels, Basset Hounds, Retrievers, Shih Tzus, Poodles, English Setters, West Highland White Terriers, English Springer Spaniels, and Dachshunds.

In general, yeast infections are secondary rather than primary – they develop after another disorder has weakened the dog’s overall health, allowing yeast cells to multiply. If your dog suffers from recurrent infections, your vet will look for signs of an underlying medical condition that is contributing to your dog’s problem. Varied conditions such as hypothyroidism, Cushing’s disease, food allergies, an autoimmune disorder, and skin cancer have all been associated with recurrent Malassezia infections.

Treating Dog Paw Yeast Infections

Medications that treat canine yeast infections include chlorhexidine, miconazole, ketoconazole, and itraconazole, which should be applied according to your veterinarian’s instructions and may include soaking the affected paws. Be sure to thoroughly dry your dog’s feet after treatment. Keeping your dog’s feet clean and dry and consulting your veterinarian when symptoms appear can keep yeast infections from spreading.

In severe or recurrent cases, oral antifungal medications such as fluconazole or itraconazole work systemically to prevent yeast cells from multiplying.

Frequently suggested home remedies such as vinegar foot soaks, Epsom salt baths, hydrogen peroxide, or witch hazel sprays are ineffective and not supported by clinical research. Other unproven strategies include adding yogurt, probiotics, or coconut oil to your dog’s food, switching to a “yeast-free” or “anti-yeast” dog food, or reducing carbohydrates in your dog’s diet.

A better nutritional strategy is to improve your dog’s diet. Feeding higher-quality protein sources and other ingredients can improve the health of his skin, strengthening its defenses against yeast and fungi. Also, if food allergies are suspected, a food elimination trial is in order; talk to your veterinarian about how to conduct an effective food elimination trial.

Visiting National Parks with Your Dog

By
CJ Puotinen
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goloden dog statnding in front of waterfall in yosemite california
That’s a beautiful picture of someone’s dog at Yosemite Falls in Yosemite National Park – too bad his owner broke National Park Service rules in order to take the photo (dogs in national parks need to be leashed at all times, on a leash that is a maximum of 6 feet long). It would take only a moment for the dog to spot one of the many wild animals who are native to the park – including deer as well as black bears – and cause some serious trouble. Photo by Barna Tanko, Getty Photos

Are national parks dog-friendly? The answer depends on your definition of “dog-friendly.”

If you think dog-friendly includes letting your dog hike all of a park’s trails, run off-leash, and go everywhere with you and your family, then, no, national parks are not dog-friendly. If your well-behaved dog enjoys on-leash walks in designated areas with a maximum leash length of 6 feet, the answer is maybe. But an unequivocal “Yes!” answer depends on your ability to find a national park that is a good match to you, your dog, and your family.

Each national park has its own rules, but most prohibit dogs in public buildings, on trails, at swimming beaches, and on public transportation. Dogs cannot be left unattended on trails and in campgrounds, and they should never be left in a car in warm weather.

Service dogs (park rules mention guide dogs accompanying visually impaired persons and service dogs for hearing) are allowed in most areas, always on leash.

In national parks that allow hunting, dogs used in support of that activity are permitted as regulated by the park’s superintendent.

Which parks can I visit with my dog?

There are 423 national park sites in the United States and its territories, 63 of which have “National Park” in their names (there are also national battlefields, military parks, historical parks, lakeshores, monuments, and more). National park scenic trails, recreation areas, and historic locations make them popular vacation destinations, but whether you and your dog will enjoy the journey depends on your research and planning.

Dogs are allowed on some trails in only some national parks, such as Acadia, Grand Canyon, Cuyahoga Valley, Padre Island National Seashore, and Congaree. In most national parks, however, dogs are prohibited on hiking and scenic trails, and are welcome only on leash and only in campgrounds, parking lots, and other developed areas.

The website NPS.gov lists all the national parks, historic sites, national monuments, and other areas of interest. Search for parks in the states or areas you plan to visit, then study their basic information, calendars of events, current conditions, maps, alerts, and other details. Alerts identify roads or trails that are closed to visitors, hazardous weather warnings, smoke from wildfires, construction delays, and other current conditions.

Then go to this page, which features a map of the U.S. and all its national parks, with a link to each park’s rules concerning pets and where they are allowed.

National park dog rules

If all dogs were perfectly behaved, there wouldn’t be a need for restrictions, but dogs in national parks can:

  • Chase or disturb large and small wild animals
  • Negatively impact the behavior of native animals
  • Damage a park’s ecosystem by digging up plants and harming fragile vegetation
  • Stress, frighten, or injure people or other dogs
  • Be injured by wildlife, other dogs, or accidents

In short, dogs can be a nuisance. But many dogs travel well and are safely under their handlers’ control in new environments, which makes them appropriate park visitors. The National Park Service rules about dogs were adopted to keep the parks safe while allowing visitors to enjoy their pets’ companionship, at least in some national parks.

Things to consider

As you research national parks, consider your dog’s personality, health, and exercise needs along with your own interests. Don’t forget to factor in the weather; extremes of heat and cold will affect your dog’s comfort and safety.

Does your dog travel well? Is he comfortable staying or sleeping in a crate? What time of year do you plan to visit? What environmental conditions (mosquitos, fleas, ticks, wildlife, snakes, cactus, heat, wind, rain, snow, paved roads, dirt trails, crowds, traffic) will affect you and your dog? How does your dog react to wild animals, other dogs, or people? For your dog’s safety, plan to keep a respectful distance from all three.

If you enjoy hiking, check to see which trails are open to dogs and study their descriptions to decide which match your dog’s capabilities. Most medium to large adult dogs in good condition can carry supplies weighing 10% to 12% of their body weight in a well-fitted dog pack (a maximum for conditioned canine athletes is about 25% of their body weight). To help your dog prepare for carrying a pack, start at home with small loads and build up gradually.

Will you stay for just a day or for several days? Will you be in a camper van? A tent? Will you camp inside the park, in an area adjacent to the park, or stay in a motel that allows pets? Is there a nearby boarding facility that can care for your dog if your inside-the-park plans don’t work out? Are there activities near but outside the park that you and your dog can enjoy together?

Your destination park’s website may have information about nearby boarding kennels, dog day care facilities, veterinarians, or other resources that can help with your planning.

Getting ready

If you decide that a trip to one or more national parks with your dog is a good idea, consider the following equipment:

  • Water (bringing your own or filtering water is recommended because streams and lakes can carry waterborne pathogens such as giardia)
  • Food, snacks, storage containers, and food bowls
  • Pick-up bags and cleanup supplies
  • An appropriate hands-free or hand-held leash, maximum length 6 feet
  • A collar and/or harness
  • An ID tag with up-to-date contact information and microchip details
  • Contact information for your veterinarian, online veterinary information services, and veterinary clinics near the park that you’ll be visiting
  • Appropriate canine attire such as a cooling vest or scarf in hot weather or an insulated dog jacket in cold weather
  • Dog first-aid kit, grooming tool, drying towels, and paw protection
  • Insect repellent or sunscreen, as needed
  • Life vest or dog flotation device for lakes or river
  • A comfortable dog bed
  • For your car, extra towels or a canine seat cover

Do your research, come prepared, use common sense, and stay flexible. That way you, your dog, and your family will have the best possible park visit.

Be a BARK Ranger

Introduced as part of the Healthy People, Healthy Parks Initiative in 2018, this ranger-led program helps visitors enjoy positive experiences with their pets in unfamiliar environments. BARK stands for:

Bag your pet’s waste

Always leash your pet

Respect wildlife

Know where you can go

The program teaches dog owners about the importance of following the BARK principles, and participating parks offer a short training program that includes a BARK Rangers swearing-in ceremony and BARK Ranger collar tags, stamps, wooden badges, or certificates. Some parks have customized tags for their location while others offer generic BARK Ranger tags.

Weirdly, there isn’t a list of the 60 BARK-participating parks on the NPS site, but there is one here.

Dog Incontinence Medications

By
Dr. Debra M. Eldredge, DVM
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Dog in diaper. Senior Yorkshire terrier lying on his bed and wearing a diaper for urinary incontinence.
For male dogs with urinary leakage, a simple belly band is easy to use and appears comfortable for the dog. You can get washable ones to reuse or disposable ones, much like baby diapers. For females, a panty-style diaper is necessary. Credit: Baldo | Getty Images

For old dogs who have age-related physical changes that cause urinary leakage, dog incontinence medications with hormone replacement therapy and alpha agonists can help. These include:

It may take a little experimentation or a combination of therapies to help your dog gain control over urinary leakage and/or loss of nerve and muscle control over urination. Female dogs, especially spayed dogs, may respond best to a low dose of estrogen. Incurin is a short-acting estrogen that is extremely safe.

Female Dog Incontinence

Oklahoma State University estimates that 5% to 20% of spayed dogs develop urinary sphincter mechanism incompetence (USMI) and says that the larger the dog, the more likely it is to happen. (See “The Best Age to Spay Your Dog” for more information on the connection between USMI and spaying.)

A recent study looked at injecting muscle stem cells into the urinary sphincter muscles in an attempt to regenerate healthy tissue. While the study only had 15 female dogs in it, 14 of them showed dramatic improvement.

Complementary Medicine Options

Acupuncture may improve incontinence for some dogs, and many people do try different herbal compounds, such as corn silk or palmetto. Organic soy supplements somewhat mimic estrogen in activity, but most find the results to be weak at best.

Tips on Dealing with Old Dog Incontinence

The most important thing to do is to get a diagnosis and treat any underlying medical conditions. For middle-aged dogs, barring congenital defects such as ectopic ureters, the most common cause is a bladder infection. That can be ruled out with a urinalysis. A urinalysis, with a complete blood panel, would catch health problems like diabetes and kidney failure.

You can help your older incontinent dog with management. Try to get her outside frequently or provide “pee pads” or a litterbox. Put waterproof, washable pads over her bedding and in spots where she likes to rest.

Most dogs will accept wearing a doggy diaper – just be sure to clean and dry that area daily to prevent urine scald and skin irritation. Change the diaper frequently.

Lyme Disease in Dogs

By
Dr. Jennifer Bailey, DVM
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This photo looks like a Lyme disease recruitment poster! Keeping your dog on a trail and out of tall grass or shrubs can help limit his exposure to ticks. Hopefully, the man is wearing permethrin-treated clothing and the dog received both a tick-preventative medication and a Lyme disease vaccine. Photo by Crispin la Valiente, Getty Photos.

Each spring and summer brings increased chatter on the internet about tick-borne diseases affecting dogs, particularly Lyme disease in dogs. For those of us who live in the Northeastern, Mid-Atlantic, upper Midwestern, or Pacific Coast states though, Lyme disease is a year-round problem.

The most prevalent cause of Lyme disease in dogs (and humans!) is the spirochete bacteria Borrelia burgdorferi, which is transmitted through the bite and feeding of infected black-legged ticks. These ticks remain attached to their host for two or more days. If a tick is a carrier of B. burgdorferi, it typically begins transmitting the bacteria to its host after being attached for 24 to 48 hours.

Symptoms of Lyme disease in dogs

Only about 5% to 10% of dogs who have become infected with B. burgdorferi will develop symptoms of Lyme disease. Of these dogs, most will develop Lyme arthritis. The first symptoms of this are acute lethargy, lameness in one or more limbs, fever, one or more swollen joints, and enlarged lymph nodes. These dogs feel lousy; they have no energy and typically will have no desire to eat or drink.

A smaller percentage of dogs who have become infected with B. burgdorferi will develop Lyme nephritis (inflammation of the kidneys). Dogs with Lyme nephritis may show a chronic history of weight loss, lethargy, vomiting, and inappetance. Their water intake gradually increases over a period of two or more weeks and they urinate more often. In advanced stages, dogs may develop edema (puffiness) of their limbs.

Contrary to what is seen in humans, dogs do not develop a bulls-eye rash after a tick bite that transmits B. burgdorferi. Dogs may develop a small bulls-eye lesion on their skin after being bitten by ticks, mosquitoes, or black flies. This is related to the insect bite itself, not the transmission of tick-borne disease.

Treatment of Lyme disease in Dogs

Dogs with suspected Lyme arthritis are typically treated with an antibiotic called doxycycline for 30 days. An analgesic such as gabapentin may be prescribed to alleviate the joint pain. Response to therapy is typically rapid, with most dogs showing resolution of their symptoms in the first 24 to 72 hours of starting doxycycline.

Unfortunately, a complete course of doxycycline may not clear all of the Lyme bacteria from your dog’s body. B.burgdorferi has been shown to be very good at evading the immune system and may hide in select body tissues for years after treatment.

Lyme nephritis is a condition that is not well understood. It is suspected that, in a valiant attempt to clear B. burgdorferi from the body, the immune system causes irreparable damage to the kidneys. The portion of the kidney that is damaged is the glomerulus – the filtration unit of the kidney. This condition is called immune-complex glomerulonephritis (ICGN).

Dogs with Lyme nephritis are treated like any other dog who has ICGN, regardless of the cause. Treatment may include hospitalization with IV fluids and medications for high blood pressure, protein loss through the kidneys, vomiting and nausea, and prevention of abnormal clotting, in addition to treatment with doxycycline and an immunosuppressant. Unfortunately, the prognosis for dogs with Lyme nephritis is poor.

How Lyme Disease Is Diagnosed

Diagnosis of Lyme disease is challenging. B. burgdorferi travels through a dog’s skin and other tissues, like joints and tendons. Although B. burgdorferi can rarely be found in the bloodstream, this does not appear to be its preferred mode of travel in the body.

Since B. burgdorferi is rarely found in the bloodstream, the blood tests currently available for Lyme disease instead measure a dog’s antibodies to B. burgdorferi. A positive “Lyme test” – more accurately, a B. burgdorferi antibody titer test – tells us that a dog has been exposed to B. burgdorferi and has developed antibodies to that bacteria, but does not tell us if a dog’s symptoms are being caused by Lyme disease.

A different type of test looks for B. burgdorferi itself. This bacteria prefers to live in a dog’s body tissues – like skin, joints, and tendons – so we can use a PCR (polymerase chain reaction) test that can detect the genetic material from B. burgdorferi in a tissue sample. Collection of these samples is a little more invasive than obtaining a blood sample. It involves taking a biopsy sample of skin or other tissue or obtaining a sample of joint fluid from an affected joint. Skin biopsy samples need to be obtained from the site where the tick bit your dog. Since many tick bites go undetected, it may be nearly impossible to know where to obtain a skin biopsy sample. Joint fluid can be obtained from the joint that is sore and swollen. A positive PCR test confirms a definitive diagnosis of Lyme disease.

Many veterinary hospitals use rapid blood tests for Lyme disease that provide a result in about 10 minutes. These tests detect antibodies that your dog has developed to B. burgdorferi. If your dog is showing symptoms of Lyme disease and he tests positive on the rapid blood test, your veterinarian may draw the conclusion that your dog’s symptoms are being caused by an active Lyme infection and prescribe a course of doxycycline. If your dog’s symptoms resolve within 24 to 72 hours of starting doxycycline, his symptoms were most likely caused by Lyme disease.

If symptoms continue – your dog does not improve after 72 hours of doxycycline – then there is likely a different cause for his symptoms. The positive test indicates that your dog was exposed to B. burgdorferi and mounted an immune response to that infection at some point, but if doxycycline did not reduce or eliminate your dog’s symptoms, they are very likely being caused by something else. Your veterinarian may want to re-examine your dog and order additional diagnostics.

Tick analyses have shown that many ticks carry more than one disease-causing bacteria. If your dog tests positive for Lyme, talk to your veterinarian about testing for other tick-borne diseases that are common in your area.

What if a rapid blood test is positive – again, meaning that your dog was exposed to B. burgdorferi and developed antibodies to that bacteria – but has no symptoms whatsoever? It turns out that most dogs who are exposed to B. burgdorferi are subclinical for Lyme disease; they never show symptoms of Lyme disease but they may test positive on their annual combination heartworm/tick test.

Treating a seropositive, nonsymptomatic dog with a course of doxycycline is controversial; there is no consensus in the veterinary community on whether treatment might possibly be beneficial or is an unnecessary use of antibiotics that can contribute to antibiotic resistance. If your dog meets this description, discuss the pros and cons of treatment with your veterinarian.

Life Cycle of the Black-Legged Tick

Borrelia burgdorferi, the bacterial spirochete that causes Lyme disease, is transmitted through the bite and feeding of the black-legged tick. There are two species of the black-legged tick. In the Northeastern, Mid-Atlantic, and upper Midwestern states, Ixodes scapularis is responsible for transmitting Lyme disease. In the Pacific Coast states, Ixodes pacifica is the culprit.

Black-legged ticks have a two-year, four-stage life cycle. The first stage is the egg that is laid by an adult female tick in the spring of year one. Each egg develops a larval tick that hatches from the egg in summer. The larval stage of the tick is extremely small – about the size of a poppy seed – and has six legs.

A tick is shown “questing” – hanging onto grass and waving its front legs, waiting for an animal to walk by that it can grab onto. Photo by kmatija, Getty Photos.

Larval ticks need a blood meal from a suitable host to complete their transition to the next life stage. Both species of Ixodes larval ticks feed on mice, squirrels, shrews, and birds. Ixodes pacifica larval ticks also feed on lizards. The white-footed mouse is the reservoir for the bacteria Borrelia burgdorferi. Larval ticks that feed on an infected white-footed mouse become infected with and carriers of B. burgdorferi.

Once the larval ticks have obtained a blood meal, they morph into nymph ticks between the fall of year one and the spring of year two. Nymphs are about twice the size of larval ticks (still really small!) and have eight legs.

Nymph ticks need a blood meal to morph into an adult tick, so they look for something a little bigger – like dogs, cats, and humans. If the nymph tick picked up B. burgdorferi when it was a larval tick, that nymph tick can transmit B. burgdorferi to its new host.

Nymphs morph into adult ticks in the fall of year two. Adult ticks are about twice the size of nymph ticks. They look for their final blood meal from a suitable host (such as deer, humans, and dogs) before winter sets in. Again, if the adult tick was a carrier for B. burgdorferi as a nymph, the adult tick can transmit B. burgdorferi to its new host.

Adult ticks mate while on deer in the spring. The male tick dies after mating. The female tick leaves the deer host and lays thousands of eggs in the environment. The female tick dies after laying her egg cache.

During the winter months, nymph and adult ticks will seek shelter in leaf litter, shady places, and under snow. If the ambient temperature rises above 37 degrees Fahrenheit and their snow shelters have melted, nymph and adult ticks that did not find a suitable host in the fall will actively seek a host for a blood meal in the winter.

How to Prevent Lyme Disease

There is no way to completely prevent your dog from developing Lyme disease. But you can reduce the risk of him being exposed to B. burgdorferi with the following three-pronged approach:

  • Use a high quality flea/tick preventative all year long. Nymph and adult ticks can become active in winter when the ambient temperature is above 37 degrees Fahrenheit and there is no snow on the ground.
  • Check your dog nightly for ticks. Ticks that are removed within 24 hours of attaching to your dog are less likely to transmit burgdorferi.
  • Talk to your veterinarian about vaccinating your dog for Lyme disease if you live in a region where Burgdorferi is prevalent. Most Lyme vaccines are more than 90% effective at preventing Lyme disease. But like most vaccines, their effectiveness can wane over time.

Lyme and other tick-borne diseases are here to stay. But we can take preventive measures to minimize our risk of exposure, both for us and our dogs.

How Ticks Find Your Dog (and You!)

Removing ticks before they bite your dog, or as soon as possible after they bite, will reduce the chance for a potential infection with B. Burgdorferi, so don’t skip those post-walk tick checks! Photo by Nancy Kerns

Contrary to popular belief, ticks do not jump, fly, or fall from trees. They hang out on blades of grass, at the top of leaf litter, or on the tips of shrubs. They hang onto vegetation with their rear legs and wave their front legs while waiting for a suitable host to come along. This activity is called questing.

When you or your dog brushes up against the tick’s hangout, the tick grabs on to you or your dog with their front legs. Then the tick spends 30 minutes to two hours or more walking all over their new host’s body, looking for the perfect spot to insert their mouthparts and begin taking a blood meal. This is often in a warm location on the body, such as the armpits, groin, neck, or ears.

Wearing clothing that has been treated with permethrin can help prevent ticks from hitching a ride on you and your dog. Permethrin causes a condition called “hot-foot” with ticks. A tick’s legs have a burning sensation when they make contact with permethrin, and they run away as quickly as possible.

Dog Skin Tag Removal

By
Dr. Debra M. Eldredge, DVM
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Dog skin tag removal is usually not a medical necessity unless the skin tag is on a dog's eyelid.
Until you’re certain you can identify a skin tag on your dog, ask your veterinarian to look at the growth. You don’t want to assume it’s a skin tag and learn it’s a cancerous lesion. Credit: RelaxFoto.de | Getty Images

Many older dogs get skin tags, just as older people do, and don’t need veterinary attention. Even a black skin tag on a dog is usually harmless, although sometimes people opt for dog skin tags removal for cosmetic reasons. An exception to the harmless rule of thumb is a skin tag on the dog’s eyelid.

Skin tags on a dog’s eyelid may require veterinary intervention. In that location, skin tags may rub on or irritate the cornea, leading to eye discharge and/or corneal abrasion. If you notice the dog’s eye seems red or your dog is rubbing the eye, you should check with your veterinarian immediately.

Technically, skin tags are fibrovascular papillomas. They are most commonly seen on Poodles, Cocker Spaniels, and Miniature Schnauzers or mixes of these breeds. The color of the dog’s skin tag may vary with the skin that the tag grows out from.

Skin Tag or Tick

Skin tags and ticks on your dog can appear similar, but ticks are generally brown with a reddish or gray tint, while skin tags tend to be the same color as the dog’s skin. If need be, use a magnifying glass and look for legs on the spot. If you see legs, it’s a tick, and it should be carefully removed.

Dog Skin Tag Removal at Home

While few skin tags require removal, none should be removed by you at home. Removal could be painful, bloody, and leave an open sore that could require a veterinary visit and antibiotics.

Unless a dog’s skin tag is in an area where it gets irritated and may ulcerate – such as around a collar – they are usually left alone. Do a monthly exam of your dog to keep an eye on changes in any skin tags. Growth, irritation, ulceration, and chewing or licking at an area are reasons to get a quick vet check.

If your veterinarian has any concern about a skin tag, she will do a needle biopsy or remove the tag. Removal can be done surgically, with laser, or via electrocautery. If your dog is having anesthesia for another reason, you can ask your veterinarian to remove any skin tags that bother your dog (or you), although it will be an extra fee. See also “Finding a Mole on Your Dog” and “Skin Lesions and Cancer.”

What Is That Skin Thing?

Skin LesionAppearanceColorSize
MoleFairly flat against the skin with a broad base; smooth surfacePink, white, gray, or blackAbout a quarter inch in diameter
Skin tagProtrude from the skin, usually connected by a thin stalk; can be smooth or bumpyNormally the same color as the skinA bit smaller than a pencil eraser tip
TickLike a brown dot with tiny legs that grows larger as the tick feeds on the bloodReddish-brown to grayish brownFrom nearly microscopic to the side of a sesame seed with growth as it feeds
WartUsually has a cauliflower-like appearance; starts as small flat bump that grows and becomes bumpyWhite, gray, pink, or darkStarts small and grows larger and bumpier; can appear in clusters, so size varies
CancerCancerous lesion colors, sizes, and appearances vary widely. Any growth you are not confident identifying should be evaluated by your veterinarian as soon as it’s found. The quicker a cancerous or pre-cancerous growth is removed, the better the dog’s prognosis.
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