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Treatment and Signs of Parasites in Dogs

Parasites in dogs affect both the dogs internal systems, and external skin and ears.
Symptoms of external parasites such as fleas and mites often include intense itchiness. Credit: kobkik | Getty Images

Parasites that affect dogs can be broadly classified as one of two types—internal and external parasites. Internal parasites reside inside your dog’s body and are rarely seen. External parasites are found on or in your dog’s skin, ears, or nose. Fleas and ticks can be seen with the naked eye. Lice and some mites can be seen with the naked eye but visualizing them with a low-powered microscope helps aid diagnosis.

Dog Internal Parasites

Internal parasites in dogs include intestinal parasites like worms and other microorganisms (such as roundworm, hookworm, whipworm, tapeworm, threadworm, giardia, coccidia, and intestinal flukes) and parasites that reside in other organs, such as heartworm and lungworm.

Roundworm

Roundworms are thin, light tan-colored worms that are about one to two millimeters wide (about 1/16 of an inch) and anywhere from four to fifteen centimeters long (about 1 ½ to 6 inches). One end of the worm is shaped like a spear and the other end is lightly coiled. When alive, the entire roundworm will become tightly coiled like a snake.

Most adult dogs will not exhibit any symptoms when they are infected with roundworm. Some adult dogs may vomit live roundworms or may have roundworms in their poop.

Puppies infected with roundworm will often have a pot-bellied appearance and a dull haircoat. They may have diarrhea that contains mucus. Unlike adult dogs, puppies will often vomit live roundworms and have roundworms in their poop.

Dewormers containing fenbendazole, milbemycin oxime, moxidectin, or pyrantel pamoate are all approved for treating roundworm infections. Roundworms are common parasites in dogs and especially puppies.

Whipworm

Whipworms are extremely thin, white worms that are about 4.5 to 7.5 centimeters long (about 2 to 3 inches). The worm resembles a leather whip (like the one used in the Indiana Jones movies). One end of the worm is thick like a whip’s handle and the other end is thin like a whip’s lash.

Dogs that have only a small number of whipworms in their small and large intestines do not typically show any symptoms of whipworm infection. Dogs that are infected with a large amount of whipworms will often exhibit weight loss and diarrhea.

Dewormers containing fenbendazole, milbemycin oxime, or moxidectin are effective for treating roundworm infections. Whipworms are common parasites in dogs and puppies.

Hookworms

Hookworms are off-white colored worms that are four to five millimeters wide (about ⅛ of an inch) and one to two centimeters long (about ½ to ¾ of an inch). These worms have a hook on one end that resembles a fish hook.

Dogs that have only a small number of hookworms in their small intestine do not typically show any symptoms of hookworm infection. Dogs that are infected with a large amount of hookworms may have dark, tarry stool. Left untreated, these dogs may become anemic, lethargic, and lose weight.

Puppies infected with hookworm will often have anemia that can become life-threatening. These puppies may also be thin and lethargic.

Hookworm can also cause pruritic pododermatitis (itching and inflammation of the skin of the paws). When we think of hookworm, we often think of it as being an intestinal parasite. But hookworm can also enter a dog’s body through penetration of the skin, typically the underside of the webbing between their toes. Hookworm causes an intense itching when it penetrates the skin.

Dewormers containing fenbendazole, milbemycin oxime, moxidectin, or pyrantel pamoate can be effective at eliminating adult hookworms. Only dewormers containing moxidectin are effective at eliminating fourth-stage larvae that are residing in the small intestine. See the article “How to Deworm a Dog” (WDJ Sept. 2023) for more information about treating hookworm infections.

Tapeworms

Tapeworms are off-white colored worms that are 15 to 70 centimeters long (about 6 inches to over two feet). The part of the tapeworm that most people see in a dog’s poop or on the skin around the anus is the proglottid. The proglottid is the egg packet that a tapeworm releases into a dog’s poop. Proglottids look like small grains of rice.

Dogs rarely show any symptoms of tapeworm infection. The presence of tapeworm proglottids may cause irritation of the skin around the anus, resulting in a dog scooting his butt on the ground.

Dewormers containing praziquantel or epsiprantel are approved for treating tapeworm infections. Tapeworms, especially the species transmitted by fleas, are common in dogs and puppies.

Giardia

Giardia is a microscopic protozoan parasite. Protozoans are single-celled organisms. Giardia is often described as looking like a tennis racket with eyes when viewed under a microscope.

Healthy adult dogs rarely show any symptoms of giardiasis. Puppies with giardiasis often have chronic diarrhea, weight loss, or a failure to thrive. Their poop will be soft and sometimes greasy. It is often pale in color and has a foul odor.

Fenbendazole is an effective first-line treatment for giardiasis. For cases of giardiasis that do not respond to this treatment, combination therapy with fenbendazole and metronidazole may be effective. Giardiasis is more common in puppies and in dogs that drink from outdoor, unfiltered water sources.

Coccidia

Coccidia is also a microscopic protozoan parasite. Coccidia is diagnosed by finding microscopic oocysts in feces.

Healthy adult dogs rarely show any symptoms of coccidiosis. Puppies with coccidiosis often have diarrhea, weight loss, or a failure to thrive. Some puppies may also exhibit vomiting, decreased appetite, and dehydration. Their poop may become bloody.

Sulfadimethoxine (Albon) is the only approved medication for treating coccidiosis. Other medications, such as ponazuril and toltrazuril, have demonstrated anecdotal success at treating coccidiosis but are not approved for this purpose. Coccidiosis is more common in puppies than adult dogs.

Heartworm

Heartworms are thin, white worms that are 15 to 30 centimeters long (about 6 to 12 inches). Heartworms enter a dog’s body in a larval form known as microfilaria through the bite of a mosquito. Microfilaria can only be seen with the aid of a microscope.

Symptoms of heartworm disease include cough, difficulty breathing, weight loss, ascites (fluid accumulation in the abdomen), and tiring easily or becoming winded during exercise or play. Your veterinarian may hear a heart murmur or arrhythmia or feel distension of the jugular vein in your dog’s neck on a physical exam.

Symptoms of heartworm disease may not appear until after the microfilaria have matured into adult heartworms. This can occur as early as two months after infection but most often occurs at least six months after infection. Some dogs may not show any symptoms of heartworm disease but test positive on a routine annual screening test.

Treatment for heartworm disease is a lengthy and serious process. Dogs are first started on a heartworm preventative to kill the microfilaria. Doxycycline and sometimes a steroid are prescribed during the first thirty days of treatment. This is followed by three injections of melarsomine to kill the adult heartworms. You can read more about heartworm disease and the recommended course of treatment from the American Heartworm Society.

Lungworm

Lungworms are small worms that range in size from 3 millimeters long to 4 centimeters long (1/10 of an inch to 1 ½ inches), depending on the lungworm species. Lungworms reside in the airways of the lungs, such as the bronchi, bronchioles, and trachea.

Dogs that have only a small number of lungworms in their airways do not typically show any symptoms of lungworm infection. Dogs that are infected with a large amount of lungworms may have a chronic cough, an increased respiratory rate and effort, or difficulty breathing.

Treatment for lungworm will vary depending on the species causing the infection but may include fenbendazole, ivermectin, selamectin, or moxidectin. Lungworms are not common in dogs or puppies.

Intestinal Flukes

Intestinal flukes—sometimes also known as liver flukes—cause a condition in dogs called schistosomiasis. Adult flukes are off-white colored flat worms that are 9 to 17 millimeters long (about ⅓ of an inch to ⅔ of an inch).

Symptoms of intestinal flukes include diarrhea, vomiting, decreased appetite, weight loss, decreased energy, increased thirst, and increased urination. Death may ensue if left untreated.

Treatment for intestinal flukes is not always effective, especially later in the course of the disease. Combination therapy with praziquantel and fenbendazole may be effective at clearing the infection in some dogs. Intestinal flukes are not common in dogs or puppies but may be more prevalent in certain geographic regions, such as Texas, the Southeastern United States, and some areas of southern California.

External Parasites in Dogs

External parasites include fleas, ticks, mites, and lice. These parasites reside either on top of or just within the skin. Some can also be found on the linings of the ears or nose.

Fleas

Fleas are wingless blood-sucking insects that are dark brown in color and about 1 to 2 millimeters long. Although they cannot fly, they are capable of jumping on and off their host.

Fleas excrete a powdery form of the blood they ingest called frass, also known as flea dirt. Frass is used to feed flea larvae as they develop into adult fleas.

Fleas can be readily seen on most dogs by parting their fur down to the skin. You may be able to find flea dirt by running a flea comb through your dog’s fur. Flea dirt looks like fine, powdered dirt. Gently rub any dirt picked up with a flea comb on a moistened, white paper towel. Flea dirt will dissolve in water and create red streaks on the paper towel.

Symptoms of flea infestations include excessive scratching and chewing at the skin. There may be scabs on the skin where your dog has scratched or chewed, particularly on the neck, behind the ears, and at the base of the tail.

Treatment for flea infestations includes treating all of the animals in the home and treating the environment. Bathe your dog with a gentle shampoo made for dogs to reduce the flea burden. Use an oral flea treatment—such as Capstar—to help reduce the flea burden even further.

Start all of the pets in the home on a flea preventative. Some topical flea preventatives are toxic to cats and rabbits. Use only a flea preventative labeled for cats on the feline members of your family. Never use a flea preventative containing fipronil on rabbits.

It is important to treat the interior of the home for fleas. Fleas lay their eggs in the environment in which they reside and not directly on animals. This means that your carpets, the cracks between the boards of your wood floors, baseboards, and the areas under your furniture are all infested with flea eggs and larvae. Use an effective environmental treatment that kills adult fleas and contains an insect growth regulator to prevent larvae from reproducing once they become adults. You may also want to consider hiring a professional exterminator.

Ticks

Ticks are actually arachnids and are in the same family as scorpions, spiders, and mites. Ticks have three life stages—larva, nymph, and adult. Larval ticks are the size of a grain of sand, nymphs are the size of a poppy seed, and adult ticks are the size of an apple seed. Ticks may be brown or black and some may have a white spot on the backside.

Ticks themselves do not cause any symptoms in dogs, but the diseases they carry and transmit can cause your dog to feel ill. It often takes several weeks or months from the time of the tick bite to develop symptoms of disease. These symptoms can include fever, profound lethargy, loss of appetite, weakness, lameness in one or more limbs, increased thirst, and increased urination.

Use one or more effective tick preventatives to prevent ticks from attaching to your dog. Minimize exposure of your dog to areas known for high tick loads, especially tall grasses in shady areas. Check your dog every day for ticks and carefully remove any that you find.

Lice

Lice are small, flat insects that are yellow in color and about 1 to 2 millimeters long. In most cases, it is not the lice that are noticed first but the nits in a dog’s coat. Nits are the eggs that lice lay and firmly attach to strands of fur. Nits are white or whitish-yellow in color and are about the size of a pinhead.

Nits look and react differently than dander. Nits are smooth and oval-shaped whereas dander is flat and flaky. You can easily comb dander from your dog’s fur. Nits remain firmly attached and cannot be removed, even with a fine-toothed comb.

Dogs with lice may rub, scratch, and chew at their skin. They may experience patchy fur loss. Puppies may develop anemia from a severe infestation.

Several flea preventatives are effective at treating lice infestations on dogs, including selamectin, fipronil, and imidacloprid. Flea/tick preventatives in the isoxazoline class of drugs—such as Nexgard and Bravecto—have also been shown to be effective against certain species of lice in dogs.

Lice are not common in dogs or puppies. Typically, lice are found on dogs and puppies that have been residing in unsanitary conditions, such as hoarding situations.

Ear Mites

Ear mites are microscopic arachnids that are barely visible to the naked eye. Sometimes they may appear as a white speck moving across a dark background. But a definitive diagnosis of ear mites requires examination of ear exudate under a microscope.

Dogs with ear mites will have a dark brown or black discharge from one or both ears that often resembles coffee grounds. They will scratch at the infected ear, shake their head, hold one ear flap close to the head, and be sensitive about having the infected ear touched. Some dogs may have scabs along the outer base of the ear, the cheeks, or the neck.

Ear mites can be treated with flea preventatives containing selamectin and topical ear medications containing pyrethrin. Ear mites are more common in kittens and outdoor cats than they are in dogs and puppies.

Sarcoptes

Sarcoptes mites are microscopic arachnids that burrow into a dog’s skin. The condition they cause is called scabies or sarcoptic mange.

Dogs with scabies are intensely itchy and will scratch and chew at infected skin. Patchy hair loss and thickening of affected skin may develop.

Flea preventatives that contain selamectin or a combination of moxidectin and imidacloprid are approved for the use of treating sarcoptic mange in dogs. Flea/tick preventatives in the isoxazoline class of drugs—such as Nexgard and Bravecto—have also been shown to be effective against the sarcoptes mite. High-dose ivermectin was used for the treatment of scabies prior to the approval of selamectin and moxidectin/imidacloprid products and is no longer recommended due to the potential for serious side effects.

Demodex

Demodex mites are microscopic arachnids that reside in the hair follicles of a dog’s skin. This is a commensal mite that is present in most dogs and puppies.

Healthy adult dogs are typically able to keep the commensal population of Demodex mites in check. Dogs that are immunocompromised and puppies whose immune systems are still developing may not be able to control the population growth of Demodex mites. The hair follicles and glands within the skin become crowded with mites, creating patchy areas of hair loss. Demodicosis can be either localized (on only a few areas of the body) or generalized (affecting large swatches of the body).

Most cases of localized demodicosis will resolve without treatment. Dogs with generalized demodicosis require treatment to resolve their condition. Treatment for generalized demodicosis is aimed at controlling the overgrowth of Demodex mites and identifying the underlying condition that allowed the overgrowth in the first place.

The only FDA-approved medication for demodicosis is a dip treatment called amitraz (brand name Mitaban). There are side effects to using amitraz and the odor of the dip is quite noxious. Other treatments for demodicosis are not FDA-approved for this purpose but have shown good efficacy in treating the condition. These treatments include ivermectin (an oral medication), milbemycin (found in several heartworm preventatives), moxidectin (found in some topical flea preventatives), and the fluralaner class of drugs (found in several oral flea/tick preventatives).

Harvest Mites

Harvest mites are microscopic orange arachnids that are also known as chiggers, red bugs, or berry bugs. Although individual mites on the skin cannot be seen with the naked eye, concentrated groups of mites on the skin may appear as small orange patches. The condition harvest mites causes is called trombiculosis.

Only the larval stage of the mite feeds on animals and people. The adult stage feeds on vegetation. Dogs with harvest mites will be intensely itchy. They may experience patchy hair loss and develop a secondary bacterial skin infection.

Flea and tick preventatives that contain fipronil or permethrin can be effective at preventing and treating trombiculosis. Harvest mites are more prevalent in the South, Southeast, and Midwestern regions of the United States.

Cheyletiella

Cheyletiella are microscopic mites that live on the surface of a dog’s skin. These mites feed on the outer layer of skin and are highly mobile. As the mites move about, they cause active and visible disruptions of skin dander. This has given Cheyletiella the common name “walking dandruff.

Dogs with cheyletiellosis are moderately to intensely itchy. They may experience patchy hair loss. Their fur may feel rough and grainy.

The use of flea/tick or heartworm preventatives containing milbemycin oxime, moxidectin, selamectin, or fipronil have been shown to be effective at treating cheyletiellosis. Bathing with a shampoo containing pyrethrin may also be effective. Cheyletiellosis is not common but may be seen more often in dogs and puppies from high-density breeding facilities.

Nasal Mites

Nasal mites are arachnids that are light yellow in color and about 1 to 1.5 millimeters long. They infect the mucosal lining of the nasal sinuses.

Symptoms of nasal mites in dogs include sneezing, reverse sneezing, nasal discharge, bleeding from the nostrils (epistaxis), shaking of the head, and itchiness of the nose and face. Sometimes the mites may congregate around the nostril openings.

The use of flea/tick or heartworm preventatives containing milbemycin oxime, imidacloprid/moxidectin, or selamectin have been shown to be effective at treating cheyletiellosis. Ivermectin has also been shown to be an effective treatment. This is not a common parasite of dogs but may be more prevalent in large breed dogs older than three years of age.

Cuterba

Cuterebra is the larva of the rabbit bot fly. This larva burrows into the skin and initially creates a small swelling about one centimeter wide. As the larva grows and matures, the swelling can become large and painful and look like an abscess. The swelling will have a small hole in the middle through which the larva breathes. If you look carefully at the hole, you may see the larva moving inside!

Cuterebra is found throughout the United States. Immature larvae are grey or cream-colored, shaped like a cylinder with little ridges, and 0.5 to 1 centimeter long (about ¼ to ½ inch). The mature larvae are dark grey, can be up to three centimeters long (about 1 ¼ inches) and are cylindrically shaped with many ridges and spines.

The only treatment for cuterebra is manually extracting the larva from your dog’s skin. This procedure should only be attempted by a veterinarian. The larva must be removed whole—tearing the larva during extraction can cause anaphylaxis (a life-threatening allergic reaction). Your veterinarian may recommend giving a mild sedative to your dog and applying a numbing agent to the skin around the hole where the larva is residing.

Understanding Veterinary Telemedicine and Teletriage

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Veterinary telehealth can provide immediate care for your dog when they need it most.
While veterinary telemedicine can be helpful in many situations, it has its limits. Since the vet won’t be able to directly observe your dog, getting a diagnosis may be more difficult. Credit: Oscar Wong | Getty Images

It’s the middle of the night and something is not quite right with your dog. You’re concerned but don’t know if your dog needs to see a veterinarian right away. You call the local veterinary emergency hospital but learn that the wait time to be seen by a veterinarian is at least five hours if your dog is not experiencing a life-threatening emergency. Do you take your dog to the emergency hospital? Or do you risk it and wait until the morning when your primary care veterinary hospital opens?

Now there’s a third option—consulting with a veterinarian online about your dog’s situation. Telemedicine and teletriage are services that are available by phone or online and can be accessed with your smartphone, tablet, or computer.

There is a difference between telemedicine and teletriage. Let’s delve into what each service can provide and the pros and cons of each.

Veterinary Telemedicine

Telemedicine is an extension of the existing relationship you have with your dog’s veterinarian. This type of service requires a previously established veterinary-client-patient relationship (VCPR)—see the sidebar about VCPR for more details.

What is a Veterinary-Client-Patient Relationship (VCPR?)

Every state has a set of regulations that govern the practice of veterinary medicine. This set of regulations is called the veterinary practice act. According to the American Veterinary Medical Association (AVMA), the purpose of a veterinary practice act is “to protect the health, safety, and welfare of the public and animals by ensuring the delivery of competent veterinary care.”

One of the regulations stipulated in a veterinary practice act is what constitutes a valid veterinary-client-patient relationship (VCPR). A VCPR is the relationship between you, your veterinarian, and your pet for the purpose of diagnosing and treating your pet. Most states require establishment of a VCPR before a veterinarian can prescribe medications for your pet.

In most states, the establishment of a VCPR requires a hands-on physical examination of your pet. As of this writing, only six states allow the establishment of a VCPR by virtual consultation. Once established, a VCPR can be maintained through follow-up consultations that are done virtually, by telephone, or in-person.

Your veterinarian’s practice may offer an informal telemedicine service, such as the ability to call and speak with a veterinarian after hours. A veterinarian at the practice is assigned to be “on call” and available to consult with you by phone when the hospital is not open. The on-call veterinarian can help you decide if your dog needs immediate veterinary attention or can wait until the practice reopens to seek care.

Some veterinary practices contract with a service that provides telemedicine consultations by phone, text message, or online video chat. These services have access to the practice’s electronic medical records. A veterinarian or veterinary technician from the service can consult with you and update your pet’s medical record remotely with the information provided during the consultation.

A veterinarian may be able to prescribe medications for your dog based on findings from a telemedicine consultation. However, not all states allow this and an in-person physical examination may still be required once the hospital is open.

Telemedicine has the benefit of utilizing information from your dog’s records to facilitate discussion, diagnosis and recommendations for your dog. However, phone or text message options do not allow the veterinarian or veterinary technician to see your dog. Video chat provides the veterinary professional with the ability to see your dog but even that is not a substitute for a complete physical examination and diagnostics.

Teletriage

Teletriage is an assessment tool that can be used to determine the best course of action for your dog in an urgent or emergent situation. You can consult with a veterinarian or veterinary technician by phone, text message, or video chat. The veterinary professional will make one of three recommendations:

  • Seek veterinary care immediately at the closest emergency hospital. Some teletriage services, like VetTriage, will contact emergency hospitals in your area to see who might be able to see your dog in the most timely fashion and have the services your dog may require.
  • Call your dog’s veterinarian first thing in the morning to schedule an appointment for your dog to be examined, diagnosed, and treated.
  • Recommendations on what to do for your dog at home. They may also tell you what signs to look for that indicate your dog is getting worse and needs immediate veterinary care.

A VCPR is not necessary for a teletriage consult. However, this means that the veterinarian cannot diagnose your dog’s problem or prescribe medications for your dog. They can only assess your dog and give you advice on whether or not to seek immediate veterinary care.

As with telemedicine, there are limitations on how much the veterinarian can see or hear what is going on with your dog via phone, text message, or video chat. If you have any lingering doubts or concerns about your dog’s condition, it may be best to take your dog to the closest emergency hospital for assessment. Upon arrival at the emergency hospital, a veterinary technician will assess your dog’s vital signs and obtain a brief history from you. Your dog will then be assessed a triage level (see sidebar about Triage at the Emergency Hospital).

Triage at the Emergency Hospital

The first person your dog will see upon arrival at a veterinary emergency hospital is a veterinary technician. A veterinary technician is the equivalent of a nurse in human medicine.

The veterinary technician will obtain your dog’s vital signs, a brief history of your dog’s illness or injury, and a list of medications your dog is currently taking. Vital signs include heart rate, respiratory rate, temperature, gum color, and pulse quality.

The veterinary technician will assign your dog a triage level based on the information collected. Most emergency hospitals use a four- or five-level triage system. These triage levels are:

  • Level 1: Requires immediate attention by a veterinarian. These pets are either actively dying or experiencing an event that is life-threatening. Pets in this category may have uncontrolled bleeding due to trauma, difficulty breathing, collapse, be actively having a seizure, or are in cardiopulmonary arrest.
  • Level 2: Requires emergent attention by a veterinarian. These pets are not actively dying but are likely to worsen if they are not seen as soon as possible. Pets in this category may have a high fever, internal bleeding, a large open wound, a proptosed or ruptured eye, or a urinary obstruction.
  • Level 3: Requires urgent attention by a veterinarian. These pets are not actively dying and are unlikely to worsen if not seen right away. Pets in this category may be vomiting blood or have bloody diarrhea, a laceration that is not currently bleeding, or an issue affecting the eyes.
  • Level 4: Stable and can wait for the next available veterinarian. These pets have normal vital signs and can wait with their owners in the waiting room. Pets in this category may be vomiting, limping, having diarrhea, or not eating.
  • Level 5: Non-urgent. These pets can be seen by their primary care veterinarian on the next business day. Pets in this category may have skin or ear infections, superficial cuts that do not require sutures, or a ripped claw that is not actively bleeding.

Dogs in triage level 1 are seen immediately. Those in triage level 2 are seen immediately once triage level 1 cases have been seen. Dogs in triage level 3 may have up to a two hour wait to be seen by a veterinarian. Triage level 4 patients may have a wait of four hours or more. Pet owners whose dogs are in triage level 5 will be encouraged to leave and see their primary care veterinarian on the next business day

Pets are seen by the emergency veterinarians in the order of their triage level. That means that some pets that have arrived after you may be seen before your dog if their triage level is higher. Being first at the emergency hospital is not the position you want to have—it means that your dog is in the worst condition of any pet currently there.

Telemedicine and teletriage can play an important role in your dog’s veterinary care. But understanding their limitations is important, too. You are your dog’s advocate—trust your gut and be their voice. As the old saying goes, “It’s better safe than sorry!”

Why Do Dogs Howl at Sirens?

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Two Jack Russel terriers howl in unison along with a siren or other noise.
Once one dog starts howling, others will often join in. Credit: Erdi Kahraman | Getty Images

If you’ve ever heard dogs howling, you know it can be quite an attention-getter. Howling in response to specific noises, particularly high-pitched, prolonged sounds such as sirens or fire alarms, is common. While sirens can be difficult for noise-sensitive dogs, howling along with them is only rarely a sign that something is wrong. As best we can tell, it usually means your dog just has something to say about the noise.

Why Do Dogs Howl?

There’s a lot we don’t fully understand about canine communication including exactly why dogs howl. That said, educated guesses can be made based on observations of domestic dogs and their closest genetic relatives, grey wolves.

At the most basic level, howling and other canine vocalizations are used to communicate. Studies of wolves howling, which are much more common than similar studies of domestic dogs, suggest that uses for the behavior include locating pack members, warning others away from territory, alerting packmates to prey or danger, and building social bonds. While domestic dogs as a species howl less and bark more than their wild cousins—and domestication has significantly altered how our dogs communicate—the primary reasons for howling appear similar.

Howling at Noises

Given that the purpose of vocalization is to communicate, it’s safe to assume that your dog is trying to tell someone something when she howls along with a passing firetruck. Of the most likely scenarios, one is that she is trying to let you know that something unusual is happening—alerting you in case you didn’t notice the weird, loud sound. Another option may be that she is telling whatever is making the sound to back off because this is her territory.

As discussed in “Why Do Dogs Howl?”, dogs also howl to socialize. The behavior itself can be rewarding for them, especially when accompanied by others. Because of this, what may have started as an alert the first time a dog heard a siren could have, over time, become an excuse for a good howl with the rest of the family or neighborhood pack.

Is Howling at Sirens a Problem?

While the behavior itself is normal, dogs howling can be a problem in two ways. First, howling—and similar-sounding vocalizations such as high-pitched whining, screaming, or barking—can be a sign of distress.

To be clear, the act of howling itself does not mean your dog is upset. If you are concerned that sirens may be frightening to your dog or that the noise is hurting her ears, pay attention to the rest of her body language and behavior. If she is tense, cowering, or hiding in addition to howling, it’s time to help her get away from the sound until you can work on getting her more comfortable with it. If she has fearful or pained reactions every time she hears a siren—some dogs are highly sound sensitive—consider consulting a behaviorist or veterinarian for help.

Second, if you are living close enough to other people that they can hear your dog, the noise may be enough to disturb them—especially at night. That’s not great for building friendly relationships with noise-sensitive family members or neighbors. If your dog’s desire to sing with the sirens is creating tension, some training may be in order.

As with teaching a dog to stop barking, counter-conditioning and desensitization can be used to modify howling at sirens much of the time (see “How to Stop a Dog From Barking”, WDJ Dec. 2023/Jan. 2024). However, if sound sensitivity or anxiety is contributing to the behavior, professional help can be invaluable.

Your Dog’s Healthy Gut

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Dog gut health is an increasingly important part of keeping a dog healthy.
An appropriate diet, enriched with prebiotics and probiotics as needed, will help maintain good gut health. Credit: Don Mason | Getty Images

DNA research has documented the importance of gut microbes in human and canine health, immunity, and longevity. A healthy microbiome—an umbrella term used to describe communities of bacteria, fungi, and other microbes in the body—destroys harmful pathogens, including disease-causing viruses, fungi, bacteria, and parasites. Most reside in the intestines, where they are known as the “gut microbiome.”

In a healthy gut, “friendly” or beneficial microbes secrete chemicals that destroy harmful bacteria and, if they are present in sufficient numbers, colonies of beneficial bacteria starve harmful microbes by depriving them of nutrients and space. In addition, the microbes in a healthy microbiome can bind to toxins, such as allergens and substances that cause cancer, removing them from the body through normal elimination.

Your Dog’s Microbiome

At 6 months of age, the gut microbiomes of healthy puppies contain over 500 different types of microbes. Though the numbers decline as dogs age, older dogs still have over 400 different types of bacteria and other microbes in their digestive tracts, approximately 80% of which are beneficial and 20% potentially harmful.

An estimated 70-80% of your dog’s immune system is in the microbiome. Dysbiosis (an imbalance of healthy or beneficial microbes in a dog’s body) leads to a variety of common symptoms that can be treated by improving a dog’s gut health, including:

  • Allergies, itching, and food sensitivities
  • Indigestion, diarrhea, constipation, and flatulence
  • Skin and coat problems
  • Dental problems and gum disease
  • Bad breath and unpleasant body odors
  • Arthritis or joint pain
  • Liver disease
  • Pancreatitis
  • Respiratory problems
  • Inflammation
  • Obesity
  • Diabetes
  • Susceptibility to infections

What Causes Gut Imbalances?

The simplest answer to what most affects dog gut health is modern life. Most American dogs eat processed foods and even the highest-quality kibbles are high in carbohydrates and low in enzymes and nutrients that are damaged by the heat and pressure of manufacturing. Add environmental factors like harmful chemicals, EMF (electromagnetic frequency) exposure, air or water pollution, and other 21st century stressors, and it’s no wonder our dogs are affected.

A Gut-healthy Diet

Holistic veterinarians have long argued that the most important factor in a dog’s health is food. A species-appropriate diet (also known as a biologically appropriate diet) is modeled after what wild canines consume, which is mostly the raw meat, bones, glands, blood, skin, and organs of prey animals. The natural canine diet is high in protein, moderate in fat, and low in carbohydrates.

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According to Karen Becker, DVM, whose popular books include Dr. Becker’s Real Food for Healthy Dogs and Cats (Natural Pet Productions, 2018) and The Forever Dog: Surprising New Science to Help Your Canine Companion Live Younger, Healthier, and Longer (Harper, 2021), dogs fed fresh in place of dry dog food show positive microbiome changes and improved overall gut function. “A nutritionally optimal, species-specific, fresh raw or gently cooked diet is always a better choice for pets than extruded kibble diets,” she says.

Frozen fresh, lightly cooked, and freeze-dried raw diets represent the fastest growing segment of today’s pet food industry. Look for frozen raw SmallBatch, A Pup Above, Stella & Chewy’s, Primal, Northwest Naturals, and similar dog foods in independent pet supply stores. You can feed your dog from scratch with the help of books like Dr. Becker’s, but brands like these are an easy way to provide the complete nutrition and variety that build a better microbiome.

Gut Health Supplements

In addition to feeding an appropriate diet, you can enrich your dog’s microbiome by adding prebiotics and probiotics to her food.

  • Prebiotics are indigestible carbohydrates, such as fiber, that feed and support the beneficial bacteria that live in your dog’s digestive tract.
  • Probiotics are live microbes that regulate immune response, produce short-chain fatty acids that have anti-inflammatory properties, prevent the overgrowth of harmful microbes, and help prevent leaky gut syndrome by strengthening the gut barrier.

Both are familiar supplements for pets as well as people, and several brands combine active bacteria with the fibrous foods that feed them. A leading theory about the effectiveness of probiotics is that the more different strains of beneficial bacteria they contain, or the more species-specific they are (derived from cat, dog, or wolf sources), the more likely they are to improve your animal’s microbiome. Most probiotic activity occurs in the intestines, which is why recommended brands use strains of beneficial bacteria that survive stomach acid.

Research shows that the popular probiotic strain Bifidobacterium animalis helped reduce stress in dogs moved to kennels from their homes and that it was as effective as antibiotics in treating severe diarrhea. The beneficial bacterium Bifidobacterium longum reduced overall anxiety in 90% of the dogs tested with it, and B. longum and other probiotics have been shown to reduce digestive problems. Probiotics are often prescribed for dogs recovering from antibiotic therapy, which kills both harmful and beneficial bacteria.

The strength or concentration of probiotic products is measured in CFUs, or Colony Forming Units. Most probiotics sold for human or pet use contain at least 1 million CFUs per serving, but many measure their CFUs in the billions. Check labels to compare brands.

For example, Purina’s  FortiFlora Canine Probiotics Supplement  is sold for the dietary management of diarrhea and to help prevent flatulence. Available as a powder to sprinkle over food or as chewable tablets, the recommended dose of FortiFlora contains 100 million CFUs of a single beneficial bacterium, Entercoccus faecium. In contrast, Bark & Wiskers Complete Probiotics for Pets contains 15 strains of probiotics totaling 38 billion CFUs, Nulo Gut Health Functional Powder For Dogs and Nulo Probiotic Soft Chew Supplements for Dogs  contain 5 strains of probiotics totaling 1 billion CFUs, Adored Beast Roots contains 3 species-appropriate ancestral probiotic strains from wolves totaling 15 billion CFUs, Adored Beast Love Bugs contains 14 strains of probiotics for dogs and cats totaling 30 billion CFUs, and Primal Frozen Raw Fermented Goat Milk contains 3 strains of probiotics totaling 5 billion CFUs per fluid ounce (2 tablespoons).

In addition, you can help improve your dog’s microbiome by following these simple tips:

  • Keep your dog hydrated by encouraging him to drink, making clean water available indoors and out, and by adding fluids like goat milk, bone broth, or warm water to food.
  • Add fermented foods such as plain (unflavored, unsweetened) yogurt, kefir, cottage cheese, or raw fermented milk from cows or goats. For how-to instructions see “Dogs and Dairy Products.”
  • Examine dog food ingredients to be sure they are the best you can afford, focusing on good protein sources.
  • Rotate from one protein to another, a strategy that provides more complete nutrition than feeding the same food at every meal.
  • Limit or avoid carbohydrates, especially corn, wheat, and soy, which are commonly associated with allergies and digestive problems and which canines in the wild never consume.
  • Add fresh, whole raw, or gently cooked ingredients from your own dinner preparation whenever it’s convenient.
  • Add small amounts of dandelion greens, brussels sprouts, okra, asparagus, avocado (without the pit or skin), or nori/seaweed as meal toppers or mix them into your dog’s food.

Replacing as little as 20% of your dog’s dry or canned dog food with fresh ingredients can significantly improve gut health.

For more see  “What Do Probiotics Do for Dogs” in the August 2022 Whole Dog Journal and  ”A Better Biome.”   

Bully-Stick Holders Reviewed

Bully stick holders prevent dogs from swallowing the last few inches of a bully stick.
Woody used the Chewzie to help him get a good grip on the bully stick. But the primary purpose of this and the other bully-stick holders we tested was to prevent dogs from swallowing the last few inches of a bully stick, potentially causing choking or intestinal perforation.

We loved the idea from the moment we first saw a bully-stick holder, the Bow Wow Buddy, which we reviewed in the November 2022 issue of WDJ. In that review, we said that the product wasn’t perfect—but it provided a measure of safety for dogs who were prone to swallowing the too-long end of a bully stick.

It was entirely predictable (and, frankly, welcome) that the Bow Wow Buddy inspired a wave of copycat pet-product makers who have brought their own designs to the bully-stick-holding task. When we searched for bully-stick holders to review, our Google search results contained dozens of products. This was surprising to us, because we’ve found only one stick-securing product in pet supply stores.

This told us that none of the available contenders are clear winners—products that are perfect for their intended use. If there were such a thing, it would be likely to quickly establish a foothold in pet-supply stores. Instead, we had to gather the best-looking products from a wide variety of sources, including the makers’ own websites.

We’re sorry to report that after testing eight of the most promising contenders, our conclusion is that there still isn’t a perfect bully stick-holder available to owners who want to prevent their dogs from swallowing large sections of their chewies.

Nevertheless, we like the advances that have been made in materials and design and we appreciate anything that even marginally improves the safety of such an enjoyable (but slightly risky) recreational activity for dogs. All of the products we tested reduce the risk of swallowing long end-pieces of sticks or chews—they are just not yet safe enough or chew-resistant enough to use without supervising the dog while chewing. We found and will use our favorite—the Bully Grip—but under direct supervision.

There Are Two Types of Bully-Stick Holders

As previously mentioned, the Bow Wow Buddy was the first bully-stick-holder we ever saw. Its design strategy has been copied in theory, if not in exact practice, in about half of the products we tested. The concept involves using some sort of mechanism to secure the dog’s chewie in something that’s not chewable, sort of like clamping a piece of wood in a vise. I’ll refer to these products as “vise types.”

A second class of products take a different tactic; they use rubbery materials in a variety of designs to attempt to secure bully sticks with friction. These products are made with either rubber or “Zogoflex” (a rubbery material made by West Paw). We’ll call these “friction types.”

Pros and Cons of Each Product Type

We bought four products of each design type for a total of eight bully-stick holders to test. Each type has advantages and drawbacks, as do the individual products themselves.

All of the vise-type products we tested are made of hard nylon. This material enables the products to contain a very secure tightening mechanism of some kind, but the downside of the plastic-like material is that it can be scored into sharp ridges if the dog chews on it—something that dogs are prone to doing once they chew the bully stick down to the last piece that they can’t extract from the holder.

In 2022, after our test dog chewed on the original Bow Wow Buddy a few times—we were clearly negligent in the supervision department—we ended up throwing it away so neither our dog nor we would get cut by the sharp edges of the chew marks he left in it.

A used Bow Wow Buddy bully stick holder.
The Bow Wow Buddy we tested in 2022 after a few minutes of unsupervised chewing; it was badly scored with sharp gouges.

 

The rubbery friction-type products don’t get scored if a dog chews on them; in fact, they all resist chewing to a great degree and can actually be used as a fetch and chew item themselves! But because they are soft, they can’t contain any type of mechanism for holding the bully sticks in an absolutely secure way. Strong dogs who use their paws to hold the stick-holder and their teeth to pull on the sticks can remove bully sticks from these products. Not all dogs are forward-thinking enough to extract the sticks when they are long enough to get a firm grasp on them (but one of our test dogs is).

What it comes down to—what it almost always comes down to—is that you have to supervise your dog with these items, and take them away as soon as the dog has finished chewing the chewie, or reloading the chewie if your dog managed to remove it too quickly from the holder. These products make bully-stick chewing safer, not 100% safe. Supervision is still required.

However, if this means that a dog can chew a bully stick or other kind of chewie down to a single one-inch piece, we’re thrilled. Bully sticks can cost as much as $1 or more per inch! One of our tests dogs is prone to quickly swallowing a high-value item if someone comes near him (rather than risking having to give it up or even losing it in a trade); to prevent this, we usually have to take those sticks away from him when they are still 5 or 6 inches in length! The bully-stick holders pay for themselves just by preventing the need to throw away those dangerously swallowable 3-, 4-, or 5-inch end pieces.

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Review of Vise-Type Bully-Stick Holders

Vise type bully stick holders utilize a clamping mechanism.
We tested four vise-type products in various sizes. From left: Bully Bunches’ Bully Stick Safety Holder, Bow Wow Buddy, GoSports’ Chew Champ, Tall Tails’ Bully Stick Holder for Dogs. The first two secure the stick by turning a recessed knob. The second two tighten when you turn one end of the product.

Two of the vise-type bully-stick holders we tested have a piece that can be tightened against the bully stick by turning a knob. The knob in each product is positioned in a recessed space at the end of the product, so the dog can’t access it. But the piece that presses against the bully stick or other chew item is different.

We give huge props to Bow Wow Buddy for innovating what we believe is the first bully-stick holder on the market—but we don’t think its peg goes far enough toward the V-shaped surface on the other side of the opening to secure thin chews.

The Bully Stick Safety Holder from Bully Bunches also has a recessed knob that tightens the piece that secures the chew item, but this piece can be tightened so far that it would hold even very flat, jerky-style chews, as well as thick or blocky chews such as yak-cheese blocks.

However, both of these products are vulnerable to chewing on the end with the knob (and ultimately making it difficult to turn the knob) if the dog is unsupervised.

The other two vise-type products (GoSports Chew Champ and Tall Tails’ Bully Stick Holder for Dogs) take a different tack: The two ends of the product screw together to press a peg against the chewie or screw apart for loading the product. Our test dogs were not able to unscrew or loosen the mechanism, even when we left them fake-unsupervised.

We think these two products would continue to operate well even if they were chewed, but they would still be prone to getting scored by dog teeth, creating sharp ridges in the material. Also, neither of these two can be used with particularly thin bully sticks; the space between the peg and the wall it presses the chewie against is too big.

Of all the products we tested, the product that holds chew items the most securely, is the Bully Stick Safety Holder. It also can accommodate a wider range of chew items than any other the other products we tested.

Review of Friction-Type Bully-Stick Holders

Vice type bully stick holders displayed on a white background.
Friction-type holders, back row: West Paws’ Quizl and Earth Rated’s Chew Toy. The products in the front row (orange Bully Grip and blue Chewzie) hold bully sticks the most securely but can’t be used for other types of chews.

The only one of the friction-type products that secures a bully stick as well as the vise-type holders is the Bully Grip. Plus, it’s made of a highly chew-resistant rubber, so a temporarily unsupervised dog who chews on the Bully Grip itself is unlikely to damage it. Please note that it’s really difficult to insert bully sticks into the Bully Grip’s tight opening, and the larger the bully stick, the more difficult it is to insert.

The Chewzie (made by Best Bully Sticks) has a similar design and is also made of chew-resistant rubber. While it can accommodate a wider variety of sizes and types of chews and is easier to load, it’s less secure than the Bully Grip. It wouldn’t hold very skinny bully sticks.

The last two products we tested are not exclusively marketed as bully-stick holders; rather, that task is listed as one of the potential uses for these products. The Quizl (made by West Paw) and the Chew Toy (made by Earth Rated) are both marketed primarily as (ahem) chew toys. They both have various openings that would admit and hold a bully stick or other slender chew item (such as a smallish “No-Hide” or rawhide roll). The larger the chew item, the more securely they would hold it; they can’t hold very thin chews.

 

Close-in shot of vise type bully stick holder closing mechanisms.
All of these vise-type products are tightened as far as they can go. The one that closes the most—the most secure of these vise-type products—is the Bully Stick Safety Holder from Bully Bunches (lower right).

 

The Chew Toy is made of rubber; the Quizl is made of West Paw’s proprietary “Zogoflex” material, which West Paw says is non-toxic, FDA-compliant, and BPA-, latex-, and phthalate-free. Our test dogs enjoyed playing with and chewing on both of these toys even when they weren’t holding chews—and that’s good, because they are the least secure of the products we tested.

Overall Winner: Best Bully-Stick Holder

Picking a sole winner from between these two types of bully-stick holders is difficult, because the strengths and weaknesses of each category are diametrically opposite. But if we could buy only one product, we’d choose the Bully Grip. It’s the most secure and chew-resistant product we tested—and makes a fairly fun fetch toy when it’s not holding a bully stick.

In fact, after our test dogs chewed one bully stick down to a tiny nub that was still held tightly in the product’s rubber “teeth,” that bit of stinky stick increased the attractiveness of the Bully Grip as a toy; our test dogs played with and carried that toy around on and off for days without managing to extract that nub. Hey! A product that made a costly treat last longer! That’s our winner.

Type Of HolderWDJ RatingProduct Name/MakerPriceSizesMaterial
Vise-Type Holders2 PawsBow Wow Buddy
Bow Wow Labs
$28 to $38XS,S,M,L,XLMade of “BPA-free durable nylon” in the U.S.
2 PawsBully Stick Holder for Dogs
Tall Tails
$15 to $26M,L,XLMade from “durable nylon and cellulose” in China, and features a “steamed-in bacon scent.”
2 PawsBully Stick Safety Holder
Bully Bunches
$25One sizeMade from “BPA-free durable nylon.” Company does not indicate where product is made.
2 PawsChew Champ
Play Go Sports
$206" and 8"Made from “durable food-safe nylon” in China.
Friction-Type Holders3 PawsBully Grip
Bully Grip
$16 to $19S,M,LMade from “solid natural rubber.” Company does not specify where the product is made.
2 PawsChew Toy
Earth Rated
$13 to $18S,LMade from “natural rubber” in Vietnam.
2.5 PawsChewzie
Best Bully Sticks
$15One SizeMade from “consumer recycled durable rubber” in the U.S.
2 PawsQuizl
West Paw
$22 to $27S,LMade in the U.S. from “Zogoflex,” a BPA-, latex-, and phthalate-free, non-toxic, material. West Paw recycles used products.

Home-to-Home Fostering

1
This foster dogs is staying at a succession of foster hopes until she finds one forever.
Angel is a sweet but funny-looking girl with a naturally bobbed tail. She came into the shelter with puppies and is still a bit thin.

Perhaps the best alternative I’ve ever seen to rehoming dogs through shelters is called a home-to-home model – which is a new and ideal name for what rescue groups have been doing forever, but which more fully describes the ideal experience for the dogs.

When someone can’t keep their dog – for whatever reason – instead of surrendering the dog to a shelter, a rescue group takes on the responsibility for caring for the dog until its members can find a new home for the dog. While in the rescue group’s custody, the dog is fostered in a group member’s home – and during the dog’s stay in a home, the group can both learn more about the dog (in order to make the most suitable placement) and teach the dog any family-dog skills the dog may not currently possess.

I am currently fostering a dog from my local shelter in an effort to thoroughly assess her suitability for a home with a 90-year-old woman, who is a friend of one of my elderly neighbors. Why, you might ask?

My neighbor walks by my house almost daily, sometimes with her also elderly sister and sometimes with an elderly friend. All of these people are dog lovers who no longer have dogs; all of them are in their 80s, and all of them have expressed to me that they feel too vulnerable to tripping on or being knocked over by a dog. Nevertheless, they love to visit with my dogs over the fence, and they are all alert to the appearance of any foster puppies or dogs on my property; they will stop by the fence, wait for my dogs to bark and me to emerge from my office, so they can wave me to the fence and ask to meet the newcomers. They especially love it when I have puppies that they can hold and kiss and fuss over.

My neighbor called me recently to ask for a favor. One of her friends, Ursula, lost her husband of 50-plus years a few months ago. Ursula and her husband had always had a large dog, but their last dog died a month or two after her husband died. Her friend, she said, was desperately lonely and wanting another dog, and had gone to my local shelter with a 50-something-year-old niece to look at prospects – and they came home with a 9-month-old Labrador-mix puppy. (I’d love to know which shelter employee made that adoption; I’d like to have some words with them!)

Needless to say, Ursula decided within a day that she needed to bring the puppy back to the shelter, as the puppy had WAY higher exercise needs than she was going to be able to provide – but she cried for days, my neighbor told me, she felt so bad about having to bring the puppy back. My neighbor said, “Could you please help Ursula find a nice older dog to keep her company?”

Of course!

When I called Ursula to discuss her quest for another dog, she begged me to come to her house so I could see what amount of home yard space she had and look at the fences, so I could see how and where the dog would live. I was happy to see that there were baby gates permanently installed at various doorways around the house. “Oh yes,” she said, “We’ve always put the dogs behind this gate when we ate meals, and behind that gate when guests arrived. Otherwise, they have the run of the house,” Ursula told me. The house had a nice fenced yard and sunny deck, both accessible from a back door that could be kept open on nice days for a dog to go inside and out, and which could be easily opened for a house-trained dog to “go” outside whenever needed.

Ursula also showed me the big, thick dog bed her last dog (a Boxer/Shar Pei-mix) used in the living room and the nice raised bowl set he had used when his arthritis prevented him from eating and drinking from bowls on the floor. She also showed me some statuettes of dogs that resembled the four dogs (the Boxer-mix, two Boxers, and a Cocker Spaniel) whose lives had spanned her long marriage to her husband and several framed pictures of all of them. It seemed like a great setup for a dog and she seemed like a very caring, knowledgeable dog owner, 90 years old or not! My only concern: Ursula really wants a medium-to larger sized dog. She says she’s never particularly liked small dogs; she’d love to have another Boxer.

Why a home-to-home foster is critical

Here’s the thing: Sending almost ANY dog straight from a shelter into this woman’s home is setting up her and the dog for failure! Dogs who have grown up in the shelter are unlikely to have any housetraining, and while this isn’t rocket science to accomplish, it might be difficult for someone at that age to clean up any accidents on carpets. If the dog isn’t trained to wait politely at doors or for meals, he may knock excitedly into his new owner and cause a devastating fall. If he’s fearful of strange humans, he may prevent her friends from visiting, or emergency responders (if ever needed) to help her in time! There are so many potential hazards presented by a dog to someone who lives alone at that age! But also, so many potential gifts….  So, yes, I’m helping her find a dog. And what she needs is a dog who is already habituated to live in a home, housetrained, friendly, and calm. And it’s very difficult to find a dog who meets that description in a shelter!

I contacted a friend, Lynee, who works at the shelter; I’ve written about her before, she’s a former volunteer who got hired to provide enrichment and get dogs outside. I asked her if she had any suggestions for a medium-to-large dog for a 90-year-old, and she suggested Angel.

 

A foster dog rests in a crate in her foster home.
Of the potential resting places in my office, Angel chose the thick bed in the open crate. She’s accepted being left in my office overnight and for random hours during the day without making any muss or fuss.

 

I went to the shelter to meet Angel, and I have to admit, I wasn’t wild about the idea at first, even though her size is perfect (she weighs maybe 45 pounds, though she could use a little more meat on her prominent bones) and her age is good (she’s estimated to be about 3 years old). She’s some sort of bully-breed-mix, with a naturally bobbed tail and queer-looking blue eyes with asymmetrical irises. She didn’t seem immediately as focused on receiving attention and petting from humans as I would like a companion for a lonely senior citizen, but she was calm and good on the leash, so I took her home for a more thorough evaluation.

Before I send this dog – or any dog! – into this nice woman’s home, I need to know that she’s going to fit in almost seamlessly. I want to know that she’s unambiguously friendly and affectionate to humans (familiar people and strangers alike, in case Ursula needs help from anyone at any time), not spooked by household events or sounds (like the TV, vacuum, microwave, loud phone answering machine, and so on), patient and not grabby about food, and housetrained! I want to make sure she’s comfortable and patient with being leashed, handled, petted, and brushed, and that she can (and will) get into and out of a car easily, in case she needs any vet or groomer appointments. I also think it’s important that she is capable of being alone in her new home without causing any damage or getting overexcited when Ursula arrives home from any doctor’s appointments or trips she takes to the market. That’s a tall order! And a lot to expect from any dog right out of the shelter.

And yet, so far, Angel is passing all my tests with flying colors, and what she doesn’t know, she is learning quickly. At least once an hour, I think to myself, “Whew! I’m so glad I know that Angel can handle that situation!” (These experiences have included our lawn tractor backfiring loudly, my accidentally dropping a pan on the kitchen floor, and my grandson accidently landing partially onto her when he jumped over the back of the couch, not knowing she was there).

 

Getting along with a group in a foster home can help socialize a dog.
She’s been calm and friendly with my dogs and quickly learned that if you want a treat in the kitchen, you have to sit, be polite, and wait your turn.

 

Not all families need a dog to be this perfect; fortunately, many people who want to open their homes and hearts to a rescued dog are able to accept and cope with the dog’s lack of knowledge, and take the time to help the dog learn how to live with humans.  But I can’t think of a better way to ensure a successful adoption than for an experienced dog owner to foster the dog first – if only to be able to provide the adopters with information and reassurances about the dog’s character and behavior, and suggestions for dealing with any problems that might arise. If you can possibly foster dogs for a shelter or rescue group, I implore you to give it a try.

Suggested reading about fostering:

Fostering Dogs: What You Should Know

What Fostering Can Do For Rescue Puppies

Interested in Fostering? Protect Your Foster Dog – And Your Heart

Identifying Fungal Infections in Dogs

Dog fungal infections can show up in the paws and ears.
It’s a good idea to check in with your veterinarian if you suspect your dog might have a fungal infection. Credit: Zontica | Getty Images

Dog fungal infections can be classified as one of three types—systemic, skin, or ear fungal infections. Systemic fungal infections affect one or more body systems. Skin or ear fungal infections affect only the skin or ears.

Systemic Fungal Infections

Most systemic dog fungal infections are caused by inhaling fungal spores from the environment. These infections begin in either the nose or the lungs. They may spread to other areas of the body via the bloodstream or the lymphatic system. Systemic fungal infections are not common in dogs but may be more prevalent in certain areas of the United States.

Cryptococcosis

Cryptococcosis is caused by fungi in the species Cryptococcus, such as Cryptococcus neoformans and Cryptococcus gattii. Cryptococcus is found primarily in soil and bird droppings, particularly the droppings of pigeons. This fungus has no geographic predilection and is found throughout the world.

Symptoms of cryptococcosis include generic nasal signs—such as sneezing, snorting, and nasal discharge—along with sudden blindness, difficulty walking in a straight line, sudden behavior change, and seizures.

Blastomycosis

Blastomycosis is caused by the fungus Blastomyces dermatitidis. Blastomyces prefers an environment of moist soil and decaying leaves along waterways and swamps. It is found in the following geographic regions of North America:

  • Mississippi, Missouri, and Ohio River valleys
  • Mid-Atlantic states
  • South-central states
  • Southern regions of the Canadian provinces of Saskatchewan, Manitoba, Quebec and Ontario

Symptoms of blastomycosis include coughing, fever, decreased appetite, weight loss, and lethargy. Other symptoms may appear depending on where the infection has spread—these include:

  • Open skin sores that drain fluid or pus
  • Blindness
  • Lameness
  • Seizures
  • Swollen testicles
  • Enlarged lymph nodes

Histoplasmosis

Histoplasmosis is caused by the fungus Histoplasma capsulatum. Histoplasma prefers to proliferate in dust and soil that contains bird or bat feces. It has been reported in several Central and Eastern states, particularly states that include the Mississippi and Ohio River Valleys.

Histoplasma infects its host when the spores of the fungus are inhaled or ingested. Once the fungal spores enter the lungs or the gastrointestinal tract, they can spread to other areas of the body through the bloodstream or lymphatic system.

Symptoms of histoplasmosis include coughing, fever, diarrhea, black and tarry stools, straining to defecate, weight loss, decreased appetite, and lethargy. Other symptoms may appear depending on where the infection has spread—these include:

  • Open skin sores that drain fluid or pus
  • Blindness
  • Lameness
  • Seizures
  • Enlarged lymph nodes

Coccidioidomycosis (also known as Valley Fever)

Coccidioidomycosis is caused by the fungi Coccidioides immitus and Coccidioides posadasii. Coccidioides is found primarily in the southwestern United States, including California, Arizona, Nevada, Utah, New Mexico, and Texas. It is the pathogen behind Valley Fever in dogs. There have also been reports of the fungus being found in south-central Washington State.

The most common symptom of coccidioidomycosis is a chronic cough. Other symptoms may appear depending on where the infection has spread—these include:

  • Open skin sores that drain fluid or pus
  • Blindness
  • Lameness
  • Seizures
  • Enlarged lymph nodes
  • Fever
  • Decreased appetite and weight loss

Aspergillosis

Aspergillosis is caused by fungi in the class Aspergillus. Aspergillus is found in both indoor and outdoor environments. It prefers to grow on food, dead leaves, and compost piles. There are many species of Aspergillus but only a small number of them can cause disease in dogs.

Healthy dogs have immune mechanisms in place to prevent inhaled Aspergillus spores from causing disease. Dogs that are immunocompromised or that are taking immunosuppressive medications are at increased risk of developing aspergillosis.

The most common symptom of aspergillosis is a chronic, foul-smelling nasal discharge that does not respond to antibiotic therapy. Nasal discharge often comes from only one nostril and may be bloody. The nostril may become irritated and ulcerated.

Other symptoms may appear depending on where the infection has spread—these include:

  • Open skin sores that drain fluid or pus
  • Blindness
  • Lameness
  • Seizures
  • Enlarged lymph nodes
  • Fever
  • Decreased appetite and weight loss

Skin and Ear Fungal Infections

Skin and ear dog fungal infections are typically caused by an overgrowth of the yeast Malassezia pachydermatis. This is a yeast that is a normal part of the skin and ear flora. The exception is dermatophytosis, also known as ringworm. This fungal infection of the skin is caused by contact with a fungus in the environment.

Dermatophytosis (ringworm)

Dermatophytosis is caused by the fungi Microsporum canis, Microsporum gypseum, and Trichophyton mentagrophytes. It is known as ringworm because the red, raised circular lesion that occurs in people looks like a worm in the shape of an undulating ring under the skin. This is not how the lesion appears in dogs!

Ringworm lesions in dogs may include hair loss, scaling or crusting of the skin, and small raised circular nodules called papules. These lesions can be itchy, so dogs may scratch at or lick these lesions.

Dogs can contract dermatophytosis from direct contact with an infected cat or dog (Microsporum canis), soil contaminated with ringworm spores (Microsporum gypseum), or an infected rodent or other small animal (Trichophyton mentagrophytes). Dogs can also develop ringworm lesions after being groomed with contaminated clippers or other grooming tools. Dogs can contract dermatophytosis from infected humans.

Healthy adult dogs are usually able to resolve solitary ringworm lesions on their own without treatment. Puppies, senior dogs, and dogs that are immunocompromised are more likely to develop multiple ringworm lesions. The immune systems of these dogs are either too immature  or not strong enough to effectively clear a ringworm infection. They will require treatment to resolve their dermatophytosis.

Ringworm is zoonotic—this means that you can get ringworm from your dog. And your dog can get ringworm from you! For this reason, even healthy adult dogs that are expected to resolve their infection may receive treatment. Treatment for ringworm will shorten the amount of time it takes to resolve ringworm lesions, thereby reducing the chance of transmitting ringworm to others.

Ringworm can be a common occurrence in animal shelters and other high density housing situations. Ringworm is not common in dogs residing in typical family households.

Fungal Dermatitis and Otitis

Fungal dermatitis and otitis—also known as a yeast infection of the skin and ears—is caused by an overgrowth of a yeast called Malassezia pachydermatis. Your dog’s skin naturally has Malassezia as well as bacteria growing on its surface. This population of yeast and bacteria is called the normal skin flora. It is part of the skin’s immune system and keeps fungi and bacteria from growing on the skin surface that can cause your dog harm.

An infection with Malassezia is often secondary to another underlying skin or ear condition. Atopic dermatitis is a common underlying cause of fungal dermatitis and otitis. Increased moisture in the ear canals or skin folds promotes an overgrowth of Malassezia.

Symptoms of a fungal ear infection include a brown, greasy, often smelly discharge from the ears, redness around the ear canal opening, and scratching at the infected ear. Other symptoms include shaking the head, holding one ear flap close to the head, and sensitivity about having the infected ear touched.

Fungal dermatitis can cause the skin to become red, itchy, flaky, and have a musty odor. Skin can also become thickened and look like the skin of an elephant. Chronic fungal skin infections can cause the skin to become hyperpigmented (black). Dogs with fungal dermatitis will excessively lick or scratch at the affected skin.

Fungal dermatitis and otitis are common in dogs. Dogs that have an underlying skin condition—such as atopic dermatitis, seborrhea oleosa (oily skin) or an endocrine disorder—are more likely to develop fungal dermatitis and otitis. Certain breeds of dogs may be genetically predisposed to developing fungal dermatitis and otitis. These include the West Highland White Terrier, Basset Hound, Cocker Spaniel, Silky Terrier, Australian Terrier, Maltese Terrier, Chihuahua, Poodle, Shetland Sheepdog, Lhasa Apso, and Dachshund.

Thankfully, fungal dermatitis and otitis are not contagious conditions. This means that if one dog in your family is afflicted with this condition, he cannot transmit it to any other animals (or humans!) in your home.

Conclusion

Systemic fungal infections in dogs are not common but can be seen more often in certain geographic regions. If you have any concern that the symptoms your dog is exhibiting could be caused by a systemic fungal infection, have your dog evaluated by his veterinarian as soon as possible. Be sure to mention your concerns to his veterinarian. The systemic fungal infections described in this article can be treated successfully if diagnosed early.

Skin and ear fungal infections are less serious than systemic fungal infections but can negatively impact your dog’s quality of life. Your veterinarian may recommend a diagnostic workup to identify the underlying condition so that your dog can receive appropriate treatment.

Recognizing Displacement Behavior in Dogs

Licking can be a sign of displacement behavior in dogs.
When a dog displays an otherwise normal behavior, such as licking, at odd times, it may be a sign he is feeling conflicted or frustrated. Credit: Artur Debat |Getty Images

Dogs sometimes do things that seem out of place. Maybe your dog runs to get a drink of water whenever company arrives at your house, or he whines and yawns when approaching a friendly dog. These out-of-context moments are examples of displacement behavior in dogs.

 

 

What is Displacement Behavior?

Displacement behavior is when your dog does something normal, but at a weird time that feels out of context. This occurs when your dog is experiencing conflict or frustration.

Conflict is when your dog feels pulled between reactions to a situation. The pressure can result from two different things that are positive to the dog but can’t be done at once, or one option could come with fear or anxiety. Some examples include if your dog:

  • Wants to visit you when you get home, but also wants to chase cars.
  • Wants to approach another dog, but is nervous.
  • Wants to pull on the leash, but knows he isn’t supposed to.
  • Wants to go to the person calling him, but is scared of an obstacle, such as a shiny floor.

Frustration is when your dog wants to do something, but is blocked or otherwise prevented from doing it. For example, she:

  • Wants to visit a person, but on a leash.
  • Wants to approach another dog, but is behind a fence.

Examples of Displacement Behavior

There are many things that a dog might do as a displacement behavior. These include:

  • excessive licking
  • yawning
  • circling
  • whining
  • barking
  • sniffing
  • tongue flick
  • grabbing a toy
  • drinking
  • eating
  • scratching
  • mounting

Which behavior the dog does can vary by the situation and the individual dog.

Here are three examples of displacement behaviors in action:

  1. Many dogs want to greet other dogs but are unsure about how the other dog will respond. They respond to this conflict between wanting to play and wanting to maintain a safe distance by licking excessively, eating grass, or yawning.
  2. My oldest dog prefers to be with me at all times. If my husband is holding her leash – even if I am within sight – she whines and paces side to side. She is with a person she likes, but is prevented from reaching me, her favorite person. This frustration comes out as whining and pacing.
  3. My youngest dog is always in a hurry and tends to pull on the leash. I have worked on this a lot, primarily by standing still when she puts tension on the leash. She understands that keeping a loose lead means the walk will continue, but she really wants to go fast! Her solution to this conflict (wanting to be good and get to walk, but wanting to go faster) is to smush her face between my knees and walk beneath me for several steps.

What Displacement Behavior Means

If you notice your dog showing a displacement behavior, consider his overall body language and the situation that he is in. Is he mostly loosey-goosey and relaxed, or is his body language stressed? Displacement behavior can be a response to stress, but stress isn’t always a bad thing.

Stress is a normal part of life. Your dog experiences positive stress when he is excited about something, and negative stress when he is anxious. Short bouts of stress from conflict or frustration are nothing to be concerned about. The issue is when stress becomes a frequent occurrence or if it is interfering with your dog’s ability to enjoy day-to-day life.

If your dog quickly bounces back and is relaxed and happy or playing after showing displacement behavior, it just means he was temporarily unsure about or frustrated by the situation. For example, maybe he started eating grass as he approached another dog, but then they greeted each other politely and started playing. This is nothing to worry about.

However, if your dog continues to show signs of distress even after the initial conflict has resolved, or if frustration can’t be addressed, this could be problematic in the long term. Let’s go back to the example of a dog worried about a shiny floor. His owner is calling him, and he wants to go to her, but is afraid of the floor and starts whining and licking his lips. He finally goes to his owner but continues to pant and be tense with the whites of his eyes showing for ten minutes after the event. This dog is distressed.

If your dog barks hysterically out the window at dogs that he can’t approach for hours on end, he is staying in that stressed, hyper-aroused state for an extended period of time. This prolonged frustration isn’t great for him (plus it is probably driving you and your neighbors insane).

What to Do When You See Displacement Behavior

Consider what your dog is doing, why he is doing it, and how he behaves after the displacement behavior ends. All of these factors will affect how you should respond.

Does your dog’s displacement behavior stem from frustration? Try to identify the cause of the frustration and eliminate it. This will minimize your dog’s stress and prevent the reaction from becoming a bad habit. For example, if your dog screams when he sees other dogs out the window because he wants to play, prevent him from looking out the window by blocking access to that room or putting up opaque window clings.

Does your dog’s displacement behavior come from a place of insecurity and conflict, but then resolve positively? For example, the dog who is nervous about approaching another dog but then plays happily. You can reduce this displacement behavior by building up your dog’s confidence and comfort around other dogs. Arrange playdates with calm, friendly dogs that you know will be gentle with your dog so he can have a lot of positive experiences approaching and interacting with other dogs.

Does your dog’s displacement behavior come from fear, and have the potential to end badly? For example, a dog who alternates between barking and lunging at another dog and retreating fearfully, even if the other dog is calm. This dog is distressed and could potentially bite the other dog if pushed too hard. If you find yourself in this situation, get your dog out of there as quickly and safely as possible. Strong fear of other dogs should be addressed with the help of a veterinary behaviorist and/or your veterinarian.

Does your dog’s displacement behavior come from insecurity or fear, and lead to prolonged anxiety? For example, the dog who is afraid of the shiny floor and stays stressed out even after getting to his owner. You can reduce this displacement behavior by avoiding shiny floors, providing rugs or mats for your dog to walk on, and/or a desensitization program to help your dog become more comfortable with the shiny floors.

Does your dog’s displacement behavior itself have the potential to cause harm? For example, a dog who obsessively licks one spot on his leg when he experiences conflict or frustration. This dog could eventually create bald patches and even damage the skin if he continues licking. Try to identify the cause of your dog’s behavior and eliminate the source if possible. You will likely also need help from your veterinarian or a behaviorist to prevent physical damage and break the habit.

Redirected Aggression

Redirected aggression is similar to displacement behavior, but works a little differently. The classic example of redirected aggression is when a dog wants to attack a dog on the outside of his fence but can’t get to it, so he bites his owner or a housemate instead. A dog showing redirected aggression is extremely frustrated, but instead of finding an innocuous displacement behavior such as grabbing a toy or whining to vent that frustration, he does exactly what he wants to do to the first poor soul who gets in his way.

The Bottom Line

Periodic, mild episodes of displacement behavior are a normal response to conflict or frustration. When possible, identify the source of your dog’s conflict or frustration so that you can address both the feelings and the behavior.

If your dog’s displacement behavior itself could cause harm, or if the result of the situation causes distress for anyone involved, start by avoiding the situation while you seek help from your veterinarian and/or a veterinary behaviorist.

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How to Win the Body-Language Game

Dog dogging away from a person who is hovering over him.
We humans love to loom over dogs and pat them on the head—often failing to notice their signals that they’d rather not interact that way (in this case, pulling away with a head duck).

When dog behavior doesn’t make sense to us, it’s easy to just shrug and say our dogs are stubborn or crazy. But often a productive answer is right there in front of us, if only we’re willing to look at dog body language—and our own.

The way we humans move matters. For example, do you stand tall and walk toward your dog when you’re calling him? That may be why he doesn’t come to you. On Planet Dog, that direct-facing approach sends a message to stop or back up. (Much better to angle to the side and start moving back a bit as you call—that tells your dog to come along.)

But it’s not just our human movement that deserves attention. The subtleties of our dog’s movement matters, too. When you sit down next to your dog for a cuddle, does she look away or lean away? Does she yawn or lick her lips? If she does those things, but you continue petting her, you may have an answer for why she “doesn’t listen” to you in general: You’re not listening to her, either, so she feels a bit on her own.

Instead, when you see one of those signals, give your dog space. Back up a foot. Now does she come over for a snuggle? Great! If not, also great, because you listened to her, which will build some critical trust.

Canids + Primates = Misunderstandings

Dog body language can communicate clear signs of discomfort.
The squinting eyes, the lip lick, and the flattened ears are a neon sign that this dog is incredibly uncomfortable. That’s important communication, and the owner who listens and adjusts will be rewarded with increased trust and better behavior. Photo by Nancy Kerns

Canids and primates use their bodies differently. Dr. Patricia McConnell’s classic book The Other End of the Leash powerfully illustrates how that’s at the root of an enormous amount of dog-human misunderstanding. Many of the issues that send people to dog trainers—and eventually veterinary behaviorists, as things escalate—stem from our human lack of attention to body language. It’s also the hidden cause of the confusion and disappointment that runs through countless dog-human relationships.

“We humans are talking . . . but our dogs are watching,” Dr. McConnell writes. “Once you learn to focus on the visual signals between you and your dog, the impact of even tiny movements will become overwhelmingly obvious.”

For example, let’s say there’s a new dog you’re hoping to befriend. In your human (primate) style, you’re inclined to move in close, get face-to-face, reach out and even hug, just like chimps and bonobos would. But when dogs (or wolves and coyotes) have a friendly intent, they would not do any of those things. Oops. No wonder the dog ducks away, backs up, or even growls if he doesn’t have the ability to retreat.

Let’s say you knew enough to approach that dog in a more canine way; you start by giving the dog some space, angle slightly to the side, crouch, and glance away. McConnell notes that a human leaning in just half an inch makes a dog move away, where leaning back just slightly works as an invitation. The difference of an inch is dramatic in terms of building a relationship!

“Felt Safety” is Critical

Given how important body language is, why is it that beginner dog training classes never seem to spend any time on it? I suspect the answer is that we humans are in a rush to learn something that feels “real” and seems obviously helpful, like sit or stay.

Well, ask any veterinary behaviorist who’s counseled folks after dog bites, and they’ll tell you learning two-way body language is plenty useful and frankly a lot more important than “heel.”

Your skill in this area determines whether your dog feels safe with you and whether you’re able to assess when your dog feels uncomfortable.

It typically doesn’t even cross our minds that our dogs don’t feel safe. After all, we know they’re safe! But being safe and feeling safe are two very different things, and if an animal (humans included) doesn’t have “felt safety” it can affect an enormous range of behaviors. Dogs who feel safer become less skittish, obviously—but also less barky, less jumpy, more able to settle, and more attentive because they trust that listening to humans will work out well for them.

This is where the importance of body language comes in: Our body movement can either make our dogs feel safer or less safe. And our attention to their body language can either make them feel safer or less safe. It’s not an exaggeration to say that getting this right will transform your relationship with your dog.

Body Language 101

For me, Body Language Lesson #1 is teaching humans to get in the habit of giving their dog agency, the ability to choose. By being intentional with our own body movement, we can offer the relationship-building gift of distance. We can train ourselves to stop a foot or two away and invite the interaction rather than forcing it. We can stop the striding in with big footsteps and a direct approach. We can stop looming, cornering our dogs in small spaces, and swooping in to pick them up and hold them prisoner. In short, we can stop smothering them with our primate displays of affection.

If that key lesson is absorbed, it becomes a little less important to become an immediate expert at what is a trickier subject: truly reading your own dog’s body language. Almost everyone can see that a dog who’s running away, pulling away, or shaking is afraid. But sometimes we need a trainer to teach us how to look for loose, relaxed body language versus a stiff, still posture that signals uneasiness. There is much more to learn to recognize in time—tucked tails, lip-licking, rolling over, the lifting of one paw, a whale eye, etc.—but giving space and agency is an immediate game-changer.

Charades Mindset Helps

While most of the critical body-language-reading moments of the day do not happen during a training session—bites happen at Thanksgiving, not during training! —casual daily at-home sessions are incredibly helpful. Frequent practice in a predictable, rewarding situation will smooth the communication path between you and your dog. I encourage folks to make a daily habit of a handful of relaxed, fun, two-minute lessons. Teach easy, low-pressure stuff, such as touch and spin. By working on these things that “don’t matter,” you’ll be building your fluency together, which is the whole ballgame.

Have you ever played the game charades? When you’re trying to get better at body language, I think it’s helpful to use that game’s mindset as you train. The skills it takes to win at charades are 100% relevant to the skills it takes to build solid two-way communication with your dog:

  • Think through what you’re going to communicate beforehand.
  • Keep it simple or you’ll throw your teammate off.
  • No extraneous body movements or you could get onto a tangent you can’t get back from.
  • Clear your mind as you’re trying to decipher their clues, because your own thoughts will take you down the wrong road.
  • Give your full attention to your partner.
  • Understand that each round is half their job, but also half your job.

Your dog has actually been trying to play charades with you forever! He’s been watching your every move, trying to assess its meaning, and hoping you’ll respond to the clues he offers. Imagine his delight when he finds his teammate is suddenly coming to practice and engaged in the game! You’ll both end up enjoying the prize, which is a deepening interspecies friendship filled with trust and understanding.

What is a Reactive Dog? Understanding Reactivity

A dog restrained by a leash attempts to charge another dog on a leash.
For some dogs, the frustration created by a barrier such as a leash or fence can trigger reactive behavior. Photo by Anton Novikov, Getty Images

Reactivity in dogs is an abnormal level of arousal in response to a normal stimulus. “Reactive” doesn’t necessarily imply aggression, although some dogs with reactive behaviors certainly can be aggressive. It just means a dog who gets way too excited over something in her environment—and not just excited as in, “Oh hi, I’m so happy to see you!” Rather, it’s way too excited as in an alarmingly aroused “Bark, bark, bark, lunge,” and maybe even a canine scream or two and possible escalation to biting.

Note that I use the phrase, “a dog with reactive behavior” rather than “reactive dog.” While a dog’s reactive behavior can be overwhelming to her human, it usually only occurs in specific trigger circumstances. Labeling your dog a “reactive dog” reduces her to her least favorable trait, when in fact most of the time she may be a lovely canine companion, especially if you do a good job of managing her exposure to her trigger stimuli.

What Causes a Dog to Display Reactive Behavior?

The most common causes of reactive behavior in dogs are:

  • Excitement/Frustration. We often see this behavior with dogs who have a history of being able to perform a particular behavior and now are prevented from doing so.

The most common example is a dog who has been allowed to regularly greet other dogs at will, both on and off leash, and is now restricted by her leash or a fence. This is known as “leash-reactivity.” These are the dogs who are likely to be socially appropriate if and when they are allowed to greet another dog without restraint.

A reactive chihuahua snarls at the camera.
Understanding what your dog is reacting to is an important part of determining the best way to modify the behavior. Photo by Michelle Kelley Photography, Getty Images

This is often the simplest reactive behavior to modify, as we don’t need to change the dog’s emotional response to her trigger from negative to positive, we just have to tone down her excitement arousal. This dog’s primary motivation is usually not aggression.

However, if her high level of arousal is intimidating or offensive to the other dog, this can trigger defensive aggression from the recipient of her extreme emotions. Excitement reactivity is also a common behavior with dogs who have other impulse-control challenges. See “Dog Impulse-Control Training,” WDJ November 2021.

  • Defensive Reactivity. This is most often seen with dogs who have fear-related behaviors and often begins to present somewhere between the age of 6 months to a year.

Fearful puppies often just shut down when they feel threatened. As they begin to mature, they can become a little more confident about making a statement – on one occasion they growl when approached rather than just shutting down, and the person or other dog backs away. The dog realizes, “Hey, that worked—I’m going to do that again!” The behavior is reinforced by the removal of the aversive stimulus. Behaviors that are reinforced tend to increase, and the defensive-aggressive reactive behavior escalates.

Defensive reactivity in dogs may also be the result of a past association. A dog who was previously attacked by other dogs or badly treated by humans can also become defensive. As the defensive behavior increases and (in the dog’s mind) is effective in keeping the dog alive, the behavior may eventually morph into full-blown reactivity.

  • Offensive Reactivity. These dogs are not just putting on a show in order to make other dogs keep their distance; they really will attack other dogs.

This can be the most challenging of the various reactive behaviors and will likely require an extensive amount of behavior modification to change the dog’s strong, offensive emotional response. This dog may never be compatible with other dogs or completely trustworthy around her triggers, but with work may be able to be socially appropriate when properly managed.

How to Modify Your Dog’s Reactivity

As with all behavior challenges, the first important step is management. The better you are at managing your dog’s environment to prevent opportunities for her to practice the behavior, the more successful your modification program will be. You also have an obligation to prevent your dog from upsetting the world around her with her strong emotional responses. This might mean enrichment and exercise in your own yard rather than on-leash walks around the neighborhood that result in multiple reactive incidents every time – or scheduling your walks very early or late in the day when other people are less likely to be out with their dogs.

It also means keeping your radar on when you walk (not talking on your cell phone) so you can do avoidance moves like “Walk Away” the moment you see a potential trigger stimulus in the distance. See “How to Teach Your Dog to Just Walk Away,” WDJ September 2018.

Other measures might include the Thunder Cap/Calming Cap (to reduce visual stimuli for your dog), making veterinary appointments for your dog at low activity times and/or asking your vet to let you wait in the car and come in a back entrance, and talking to your veterinarian about anti-anxiety medications if appropriate (see “Anti-Anxiety Medications for Dogs,” February 2023).

For the actual modification of reactive behavior, you have choices. Counter conditioning and desensitization is usually my first choice. It is a relatively simple protocol that people are often (but not always!) able to implement without much guidance from a behavior professional.

With the stimulus at a below-threshold intensity (for reactivity this is usually the distance from the trigger where your dog notices but isn’t reacting), you feed your dog a high value treat (such as fresh bits of roasted chicken) every time she looks at the trigger, until her behavior indicates that she begins to think, “Chicken!” when she sees the stimulus, rather than “Bark and get excited!” We call this the “conditioned emotional response.” The stronger your dog’s emotional response to her triggers, the longer it is likely to take for her to get there. See “Counter-Conditioning and Desensitization for Reducing Dog Reactivity,” on the WDJ website.

I have also had success modifying reactive behavior using the Constructional Aggression Treatment (CAT) procedure. This is a more complex protocol that usually requires working closely with your favorite qualified force-free professional. In this procedure, the dog learns that calm behavior makes the unpleasant or uncomfortable stimuli go away; eventually the dog becomes calm and no longer feels the need to display reactive behavior. (“Reverse CAT” works the opposite way; the frustrated dog learns to stay calm in order to make good things come closer.) See “Modifying Aggressive Dog Behavior,” May 2008.

The above-described protocols can be very effective in modifying your dog’s reactive behavior, and a qualified force-free professional can offer you other options as well. See “Find the Best Trainer for You and Your Dog,” July 2023.

Don’t Punish

It is critical that you do not punish your dog for her reactive behavior. The stress you add by verbally or physically trying to “correct” your dog for her “bad” behavior will add tension to her already strong emotions. Remember that she is not choosing to be deliberately “bad” – she is overwhelmed by emotions that she cannot control. Even if you succeed in shutting down the reactive behavior in the moment, you are very likely to do more harm in the long run by adding to her emotional load. Recent studies confirm  that punishment and force-based methods can do significant damage to a dog’s quality of life. You don’t want to do that – you want to improve your dog’s quality of life!

Why Does My Puppy Have Diarrhea?

Puppies can experience stress, and this can lead to puppy diarrhea.
New puppy stress is real. Remember, the puppy has been taken from the only home he ever knew and away from his littermates. Loose stools and/or diarrhea can occur as a result. Credit: Danita Delimont | Getty Images

A puppy may have diarrhea for many reasons and usually is not reason to immediately overreact unless you’re seeing additional symptoms. Start with simple reasons for your new puppy’s diarrhea first:

  1. He has had major life changes. He is leaving the only home he has known, leaving his canine family, and moving to a new place with new people and maybe new animal friends. Diarrhea is a common stress reaction. Hold off on friends visiting your new puppy. Give him some time to settle in with quiet time and rest.
  2. Diet change. Most breeders send you home with a bag of the same food your pup has been eating. Stick with that food to start and go slow on treats (treat with the puppy’s kibble!). If you wish to change to a different food or diet plan, do it gradually.
  3. Parasites and illnesses. Anytime a dog has diarrhea, but especially with a puppy, parasites and illnesses need to be considered. Even if your breeder or rescue has dewormed him, take a fecal sample into your veterinarian. Better safe than sorry. Parasites like Giardia and coccidia can be missed with just one check or treatment.

When to Worry With Puppy Diarrhea

If the diarrhea is accompanied by vomiting, any blood in the stool, and signs of sickness such as a fever, lethargy, and not eating, your pup needs to be seen by your veterinarian. Puppies can dehydrate quickly, especially toy breed puppies who are susceptible to hypoglycemia – low blood sugar – as well.

If your puppy has diarrhea but is still playful and otherwise going gangbusters with some soft stool, you may be able to manage this at home with some care and careful observation:

  1. Keep him clean. The hardest problem with a playful, active pup with diarrhea is keeping him clean. Change bedding frequently and rinse off his rear and feet in the sink or the bathtub with warm water.
  2. Be sure he is hydrated. Make sure your pup is drinking. Dehydration is always a concern with a puppy with diarrhea. You can add a little electrolyte solution such as Pedialyte to his water, if needed.
  3. What to feed a puppy with diarrhea. Stick to bland food and skip the treats for now. A chicken and rice food or home-cooked plain (no seasonings) chicken breast and plain white rice are easy to digest. Canned mackerel is easy on the system. Add a small amount of plain canned pumpkin (not the pie version, which contains spices!) to help firm up stools. If stools don’t start to firm up in 24 to 36 hours, a veterinary visit is in order.

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