The phone call came into the front office of the Marin Humane Society from a woman who had glanced over her fence and noticed her neighbor’s adolescent Dalmatian, apparently tangled up in her tie-out rope so badly that she couldn’t move.
Rushing to the address, the Society’s humane officer did, indeed, find the tangled dog, but there was something suspicious about the scene. The rope was coiled and knotted so neatly around the dog’s legs that it was obvious to the officer that it had been applied to the dog on purpose. On a warm, sunny California day, the dog had been deliberately hog-tied and left for hours with no access to water or shade. The dog was given veterinary care and taken into protective custody, but an investigation was clearly called for.
When questioned, the 19-year-old owner of the dog explained that he had put her on the “punishment rope” because she had peed in the house, and he had forgotten to release her before he left for work. You must, he asserted with confidence, punish your dog for peeing in the house or she would never be housebroken. His method of punishment-based training clearly wasn’t working, since at the age of 10 months, the young dog still peed in the house.
The Dalmatian’s owner was unclear on at least two major concepts: First, punishment is a highly ineffective means of house training a puppy, and second, his dog didn’t even have a house training problem. The dog was actually a submissive urinator, and all of the punishment her owner had meted out only made the problem worse.
Inherited behavior
In the canine world, when one dog wants to show deference to another, more dominant dog, he may urinate as a sign of submission. The more threatened he feels, the more likely he is to urinate. This is an involuntary reaction, an instinctive behavior that all dogs are born “knowing” how and when to exhibit.
In a pack of dogs, this programmed behavior is a valuable survival mechanism. Puppies are extremely vulnerable to the wrath of adult dogs in the pack, and built-in submissive responses signal normal adult dogs to automatically shut off the aggression, thus keeping puppies from being hurt. These programmed responses (submission from puppies, turning off adults’ aggression) support survival of the pack. As puppies mature, they eventually become more skilled at detecting and avoiding aggression sooner, and no longer need the submissive urination to protect them (except in dire situations, where under a fierce attack, this involuntary response may again get triggered).
Speaking different languages
Unfortunately for humans, as we raise young puppies and dogs, actions that seem perfectly natural and innocuous to us, such as bending over a puppy or patting him on the head, can be very threatening gestures in the DogSpeak dictionary, and inadvertently trigger the involuntary bladder-release response. It is a relatively common behavior in puppies, and more prevalent in some breeds than others. Cocker Spaniels, for example, are notorious submissive wetters, giving rise to the trainers’ joke:
Q: How do you get a Cocker Spaniel to urinate on cue?
A: Pat him on the head!
If properly handled, puppies usually grow out of the behavior as they mature. However, if an owner misperceives the behavior as a house training challenge and punishes the puppy, the problem worsens.
That’s because, unlike normal elimination, which the dog has some control over, submissive urination can quickly become a classically conditioned behavior; the presence of a particular stimulus automatically triggers the response.
Think of Pavlov’s dogs, who drooled at the sound of a bell that had been associated with the arrival of food. Pavlov’s dogs didn’t decide to salivate when they heard the bell – it just happened. A submissive dog doesn’t decide to pee when approached – it just happens.
It might take only one episode of punishment for peeing to condition the dog to automatically pee when she sees or hears stimuli that she associates with the punishment. Sadly, the harder the owner punishes, the more the puppy pees in order to acknowledge the owner’s superiority and deflect his wrath. The more the puppy pees, the harder the owner punishes.
And “punishment” in this case doesn’t only refer to cruel and unusual treatments such as hog-tying the dog outside. One loud squawk of alarm from a surprised person may frighten an extremely sensitive individual enough to classically condition her to pee every time she hears a shout, whether it’s a happy shout of “Good dog!” or even just, “Honey, I’m home!”
This is clearly an interspecies communication problem that begs the intervention of a translator before it does permanent damage to the relationship between dog and human. Humans don’t like dogs who pee in the house, and dogs become fearful and mistrusting of humans who are always yelling at – or worse, hitting them despite their best efforts to appease.
Get out the cork
The most effective way to modify a dog’s submissive urination is to stop doing the things that make him pee. This means avoiding all of the behaviors that are considered threatening to dogs and are likely to trigger the involuntary response.
This may be more difficult than it sounds, as many of the behaviors that are threatening to dogs are instinctive greeting behaviors for humans, such as making direct eye contact, approaching in a straight line (head-on), bending over the dog, patting him on top of the head, and speaking in a loud or deep voice.
Visitors, as well as all family members, must be counseled and frequently reminded to approach and interact with Spot in a non-threatening way until the dog matures and gains enough confidence that he no longer releases his bladder so easily.
It is critically important to avoid getting angry with your dog when an accident or some other misbehavior occurs. Dogs are masters at reading body language, and even a slight stiffening of your body or change in the tone of your voice can release a stream from a very sensitive dog. It is easier to stay calm if you can remember that Spot has no control over his submissive urination – when the stimulus is presented, the response occurs involuntarily. He can’t help it.
If you take full advantage of all available behavior management tools it will prevent most incidents from occurring, and will greatly reduce the environmental damage done when an incident does occur, making it easier for you to stay calm in the face of Spot’s occasional flood.
How exciting!
Excitement urination is a little different, but a very close cousin to submissive urination. It occurs when a puppy gets so excited that he “wets his pants.” Again, this is an involuntary response that the dog cannot control, and nothing is gained by punishing him.
Calm human behavior – body language and voice – are also important with the excitement urinator. Greetings are best accomplished by ignoring the dog until he settles of his own accord, then acknowledging him very calmly and quietly. Give him opportunities to empty his bladder outside on a regular basis, and implement a “Practiced Calm” program so he learns to control his own behavior, eliminating the trigger for the inappropriate urination. (See “Practiced Calm,” WDJ February 2002.)
Success stories
If you have a submissive or excitement urinator, you can be very optimistic. Most dogs can overcome these problems relatively easily with appropriate management and modification techniques.
Pebbles, our hog-tied Dalmatian, is a great example. Her owner pleaded guilty to a misdemeanor violation and, to the dog’s everlasting good fortune, forfeited ownership of his dog. She was adopted to a more understanding owner who successfully implemented a proper training program, and in just a few short months Pebbles’ submissive urination was no longer a problem.
When it comes to choosing a dog food, the number of choices currently found on the shelves is nearly overwhelming.
Thanks to niche marketing – a position from which an opening in a market can be exploited, or a specialized but profitable segment of a commercial market – the production of dog foods is following the trend in human products for increasing specialization. There really is something for everyone: big dogs; medium dogs; small dogs; working dogs; dogs with tender tummies, stinky breath, or itchy feet; couch potatoes and elite athletes – all dogs can get a diet specifically designed just for them. Whether or not there are predictable or well-reasoned differences between the foods in these niches is debatable, however, as you will see below.
How big a deal is this, anyway? Pretty big, if the major dog food manufacturers are any indication. Iams is fairly sedate, with only 10 dry food varieties, but it also makes Eukanuba, which weighs in with 14 different foods, giving the Iams Company a total of 24 dry dog foods. Hill’s Science Diet makes 18 different “over-the-counter” foods and 17 “prescription” diets.
Nature’s Recipe makes 13; Nutro makes 16 in 2 lines (Max and Natural Choice); Eagle makes 17 in 3 brands (Hy-Ration, Eagle Pack, and Prism brands); and Breeder’s Choice makes 14 in 4 lines (including AvoDerm, Avo-Active Care, Pinnacle, and A.P.D.). The grand prize goes to Royal Canin, with 32 different dog food formulations among its 4 brands (Royal Canin Size Nutrition, Natural Blend, Sensible Choice, and Excel).
Even grocery store dog foods are getting in on the act – Ralston Purina boasts 26 different dry foods under 7 brand names, and was itself recently swallowed by an even bigger fish, Nestlé S.A., maker of Alpo, Mighty Dog, and Come’n Get It. Since most foods come in at least two bag sizes – and we’re just talking about dry foods here! – you can see that making such a large number of foods is a substantial commitment on the part of the manufacturers. But the specialization strategy must be working for them, or they wouldn’t continue it.
So how did the pet store shelves suddenly blossom with a food for every occasion? It all started in 1977, when one savvy manufacturer took a hint from the new (and very popular) light beers, and created “Skippy Lite” dog food. The idea caught on quickly, and today most manufacturers produce a number of different “formulas” in each of their lines of foods.
It’s in the fine print
But while the names or descriptive labeling of some foods may suggest that they have been tailor-made for this or that dog, the average consumer would be hard-pressed to distinguish the differences between a company’s specialty product and its “regular” food.
We fervently wish that dog food makers were required to spell out exactly how their niche foods are unique, and quantify those differences in comparison to their original, plain food. But they don’t and they won’t, explaining that specifying the differences would give away their trade secrets and market advantage. Instead, we’re supposed to take it on faith that they know things that we don’t know about the special needs of (fill in the blank) dogs, and they have addressed those needs to a T.
However, if you’re like us and you want to know if those differences are significant – or even appropriate for your dog – you have to examine food labels for specific clues. You can’t simply buy any “senior” food for your old dog, because there is absolutely no consensus among dog food makers as to “what’s best” for old dogs; as with “regular” foods, senior foods vary in ingredients as well as proportions of major nutrients such as protein and fat.
You see, all dog foods – regular and specialty products – that claim to be a “complete and balanced” diet for dogs by virtue of meeting the “Dog Food Nutrient Profile” (see sidebar, “Don’t Miss This Important Label Information, right) contain at least a minimum of the same nutrients, although they may differ in proportions and maximum levels.
Beyond this basic set of requirements, it’s really anybody’s guess as to how each company will choose to deal with the problem of feeding certain dogs. Given the prevalence of terms like “senior food,” “large breed food,” etc., most people imagine that there are official standards or requirements for food labeled this way. AAFCO has nutritional guidelines for two categories of dogs: adults, and dogs who are in a growth or reproduction phase of life. It does not approve or suggest nutritional guidelines for senior dogs, large dogs, little dogs, giant dogs, etc.
It seems to come as a surprise to most people to learn that there are few trends that hold true for any given category across all food manufacturers. One company’s “light” food may contain more fat and calories than another company’s regular food. One maker’s “small dog” food contains more protein than its regular food; another company thinks small dogs should have less protein. Frequently, products that are marketed as tightly and scientifically formulated to suit the needs of a specialized group of dogs are indistinguishable from the main, plain foods in the same lines.
So, as usual, it comes down to reading the label and understanding what you’re looking at. We’ll examine each of the most popular types of foods on the market today, and give you hints about the most common trends in each type. Then you’ll know how to compare the “niche” food you are considering to the regular food made by the same company, or to a niche product made by another company.
Regular adult foods
Protein levels in the adult maintenance foods we examined for this article spanned a huge range – from 17.5 percent to 34 percent protein as fed, or 19-38.6 percent on a dry matter basis (see sidebar, “How to Calculate the ‘Dry Matter’ or Actual Nutrient Levels,” next page). The majority fell in the 22-26 percent range as fed.
The AAFCO nutrient profile lists minimums for fat (again, this is just for those foods qualified as “complete and balanced” by their nutrient profile, rather than feeding test). “Nutrient profile” adult foods must contain at least 5 percent fat on a dry matter basis. Keep in mind that foods qualified as “complete and balanced” by feeding test are not limited to minimum or maximum nutrient levels.
The vast majority of adult foods contain significantly more fat than the nutrient profile minimum, because the higher amount of fat in a food increases palatability – very important to a food maker’s success. Also, extremely low fat diets tend to result in flaky skin and dry coats. In the regular adult foods we examined, we saw a range of 6-20 percent fat as fed (6.5-22.7 percent dry matter); 12 percent as fed was the mean.
AAFCO’s dog food nutrient profile does not include either a minimum or maximum requirement for fiber, but labeling laws require the crude fiber content to be listed on the dog food label anyway. Most regular dog foods contain 3-5 percent fiber.
Puppy foods
AAFCO’s dog food nutrient profile says that puppy (“growth/reproduction”) foods must contain a minimum of 22 percent protein on a dry matter basis. We found puppy foods to vary widely in both protein and fat. Most are in a range of about 26-28 percent protein as fed, although we saw foods as low as 25 percent and as high as 36 percent protein as fed (27 percent and 41 percent dry matter). The 36 percent (as fed) protein puppy foods we found were designated for large or giant breeds.
In the puppy foods we examined, we saw a high of 10 percent and a low of 20 percent fat as fed. Most staked out the middle of the road at 16 percent as fed. Since puppies really do need adequate fat to grow properly, nobody (at least not yet) makes a food that is labeled as “light puppy food,” although large breed puppy formulas could meet the definition. They contain the least fat of the bunch, commonly 14 percent as fed.
Puppy foods generally contain a little less than the adult food average of 3 – 5 percent fiber.
Again, note that the trend is moving toward increasingly small niches. To that end, one enterprising manufacturer came up with the name “puppy weaning formula,” but its guaranteed analysis is identical to that of the same company’s regular puppy food.
Senior foods
What exactly is a “senior” dog? One company suggests feeding senior food to dogs three years old and older; others designate 7-year-olds as senior dogs. Dogs of different sizes and breeds age differently, with small dogs having the longest average life span and giant breeds having the shortest. We’ll leave this call up to you and your vet.
We’d like to think that there is a specific dietary “prescription” that will benefit all older dogs, but it’s not really true. Most senior dog foods are comparable to (and in some cases, interchangeable with) light foods, drawing on the theory that most older dogs are overweight. Compared to adult maintenance formulas, senior diets generally contain less protein and fat, and perhaps a bit more fiber. However, there are a few senior foods that have higher levels of protein (up to 27 percent as fed), though most are still lower in fat.
Food manufacturers have taken this direction due to the prevalence of “fat old dogs,” not because it has been proven that all older dogs benefit from less fat or protein. In fact, if you have an active older dog, you would probably do him a disservice by feeding him a low-protein, low-fat “senior” food; he’d likely get too thin on such a diet.
It is interesting to witness the different approaches taken by the manufacturers with those subspecialty “bridging” foods. For example, Royal Canin’s “Senior Large Breed” food contains less protein and less fat than their regular senior food, while Nutro Natural Choice’s “Senior Large Breed” food contains more protein and less fat than their regular senior food. Just one more good reason to read the label of the food you are considering, as well as the other foods in that line, and comparable foods from other brands. (Maybe you’d better add a notebook and pencil to the list of things you bring to the store. I take a clipboard with me, and it earns me lots of strange looks from the employees!) And always watch your dog’s weight and condition.
Light foods
There are two factors that the food makers generally manipulate in this category: the fat and the fiber contents. In comparison to their regular foods, some makers decrease the fat, some increase the fiber, some do both. However, you can’t assume anything in this category. We noticed that some light foods contain more fat than some regular adult foods! That’s because “light” means “light in comparison to our regular foods.” How can you tell which is which? You must compare the label information!
Performance foods
“Active,” “high stress,” “competition,” or “performance” foods generally contain high levels of protein and fat. Most of the foods we saw contain around 20 percent fat as fed, but some were as high as 27 percent as fed – more than a quarter of the total weight of the food. Since a gram of fat contains more than twice as many calories (9) as a gram of protein (4), such a food may contain more than half its calories as fat. Your dog had better be pretty darn active if you choose a food like that!
However, at least one food falls in this category that doesn’t call itself by any of those terms. Nature’s Recipe’s “Special Formula” is intended for fussy eaters – a lot of small dogs fit that description. This particular food contains 30 percent protein and 20 percent fat as fed. Dogs find protein and fat more attractive, so this is one way to hook a finicky dog, but it may also be a good way to end up with a 15-pound Yorkie, or a Lhasa Apso who could mop the floor while walking! This food was formulated to meet AAFCO nutrient profiles, rather than proven in feeding tests like most of this company’s other foods. Maybe they didn’t want to know what six months of high calorie feeding would look like!
Large breed foods
Large breed adult formulas tend to be on the low end in fat, and low to moderate in protein. If you have a very active large breed dog, you’ll want to watch his weight and condition if you select one of these diets.
Generally, calcium and phosphorus are lower in large and giant breed puppy formulas, which is good, because calcium and other minerals are of concern in growing large and giant breed puppies. However, the amounts are not required by law to be listed on dog food labels, and so for the most part, you won’t see the minerals listed. Argh! However, you can often get this information from the company or its Web site.
Small breed foods
The most reasonable difference between the small breed foods and other foods has to do with the size of the kibble. It makes sense to give tiny dogs with tiny jaws and tiny teeth a smaller-sized nugget to crunch.
However, some of the small dogs foods are also higher in fat, which is not necessarily a good and healthy thing for an inactive lap dog – it may, of course, be just fine for that rare Chihuahua who runs several miles with his guardian every day. As we said above, smaller dogs tend to be fussier eaters and higher-fat foods are more tempting, so monitor your dog, and feed her less if she starts gaining too much weight.
People who feed small amounts of food tend to buy small packages. Note that the price markup (profit) is higher on the smaller packages – a great incentive for the makers to produce “special” food for small dogs.
Breed-specific foods
About 20 years ago, some breed and nutrition experts began to advocate breed-specific diets. The theory behind them generally had to do with historical and geographical connections between certain breeds of dog to certain foods – rice-based diets for Asian breeds, for example, or fish-based diets for Northern dogs – and inherited tendencies toward food allergies or intolerances thought to be triggered by “non-native” foods. So “breed-specific” diets generally differ in their major ingredients and, thus, in their protein, fat, and fiber levels.
While the likelihood is good that certain breeds may do better on certain diets, the fact remains that every dog is an individual and must be fed accordingly. Just as there are Italians who are allergic to wheat and therefore can’t have pasta, there are Akitas who can’t tolerate rice, and Northern dogs who do best on low-fat diets.
Nature’s Recipe has most extensively explored this niche, offering foods for herding, hound, sporting, terrier, toy, and working dogs. Each food has been slightly tweaked from its brothers, with major ingredients appearing in slightly different orders, differences in the herbs they contain, protein and fat levels up and down by one or two percentage points, and a varying kibble size.
“Special needs” and prescription diets
In a future article, we’ll look at “prescription” diets (foods that are available only from veterinarians) as well as the “special needs” foods: those that allege to address arthritis, joint health, sensitive stomachs, sensitive skin, oral/dental problems, and food allergies.
If you spend your time in the company of dogs, you’re probably used to walking – long walks, short walks, walks for potty stops, walks for exercise, walks to relieve boredom, and walks for walking’s sake. So, what’s the difference between walking and hiking? In practical application, not much. But in attitude, everything!
Think of hiking as an adventure, getting wild, and leaving the mainstay of human existence – even if only for a few hours. And sharing the hiking experience with a dog offers rewards beyond explanation.
I’ve heard people warn that hiking with a dog scares off the wildlife, that you’ll see or hear less. In my experience, hiking with dogs brings me deeper into the adventure.
Recently, I was walking with my dog friend, Jesse, through a wilderness area on the edge of our city. As we were passing through a large meadow, I was distracted by the views of the ocean. But I noticed Jesse’s stance change. She air-scented for a moment, then the set of her ears shifted. I looked in the direction of her ear set. Her eyes followed mine. At that moment, I saw him, about 100 feet away – a beautiful young coyote. He’d been watching us, but I hadn’t noticed.
Jesse and I both stood still, eyes fixed on the coyote. When the coyote realized he had a captive audience, he began dancing through the tall wildflowers. He did not approach or retreat, but instead he rolled on his back, spun circles, made playful leaps into the air. It appeared as though he was inviting Jesse to come and play.
Jesse watched with interest, but stayed calm next to me (thanks to the leash!). After a few minutes, the young coyote must have decided we weren’t going to play and gave up his antics. He headed past us through the meadow and disappeared into the tall grass. We also continued on our way, but that experience – one that I would have surely missed if not for my dog friend – is forever etched in my mind.
Prepare Your Dog for the Woods
If you’ve never hiked with your dog, but are thinking of trying it, you are in for a lot of fun. You may want to start out with a casual adventure – close to home and not too long. I’ve witnessed a few city dogs who became nervous when walking in the woods for the first time. But by making the experience fun (bring along lots of great treats or your dog’s favorite toy), you can assure that he’ll soon overcome his nervousness and be as excited about hiking as you are.
Even for those dogs who obviously love the great outdoors, be sure to choose an adventure that suits both of your abilities. Think about the kind of physical condition you are in, and how adapted you are to the altitude, the outside temperature, and the terrain. For example, a dog (or person, for that matter) who lives and hikes regularly along the coast may have a tough time when hiking in higher altitudes. Likewise, a dog from a cool region may have some trouble in the heat of a summer desert. Muscles that are well suited for level or gently climbing trails may tire much faster on a steep climb. Don’t try to go too far or climb too high if you or your dog is not up to the challenge.
Finding the Right Dog Trail
Finding a great place to hike with dogs can sometimes be a challenge, especially if you live in an urban or other populated area. Many places that offer great hiking are off limits to our dogs. Some areas will allow dogs, but only on certain trails or at specific times of the year. But places to hike with dogs are out there – you just have to look!
Probably the best way to find fun hiking spots is to talk with other people who like to hike. Ask your friends, or the folks who work at the local outdoor equipment store or feed store. You can also search through hiking guidebooks – there are dozens in most libraries and bookstores. Some say if dogs are allowed in the area, and sometimes they even include leash restrictions.
You can also check online resources. A quick search for “Hiking in Santa Cruz,” for example, came up with a few great sites, complete with directions to the trailheads and maps of the area. Once you’ve got a place in mind, double-check the dog rules. It’s disappointing to get to a trailhead only to discover that an area that was once open to dogs is not anymore.
Here are a few additional tips for your search. National Forests can be a gold mine for hikers with dogs – dogs are allowed on most trails, and are often permitted off leash. National Parks, on the other hand, are usually less dog-friendly and rarely allow dogs on trails. Other places to check are local wilderness areas, county parks, and state parks. Rules and regulations vary dramatically from place to place and park to park, so call ahead to find out the specifics about dog regulations.
Leave Only Paw Prints
Hiking with dogs has become an endangered activity in some areas. More and more places are restricting access for dogs. The reasons may be obvious. Wilderness areas are shrinking, the population of people and dogs is ever-growing, and the places where the two meet have become more congested. Those of us who love the great outdoors are rightly concerned about the well-being of our wilderness areas, and about the future of hiking with dogs. So what can you do?
Respect wildlife and help your dog do the same.
If your dog enjoys a good chase, keep him on leash! While a wild animal is likely to outrun a domestic dog (though not always), your dog’s chase could leave the animal tired, and much more likely to become another’s dinner. Also, the animal or bird may be an overworked parent, foraging for its young. Using its energy resources to escape your dog may cause it to fail to provide food for its vulnerable babies.
Try to have as little impact on the area as possible.
Pack your trash. Scoop your dog’s poop and carry it out. Try not to disrupt plants and other natural features. Use special care not to pollute water sources, too.
Act as an ambassador for all dog people.
Always follow posted guidelines and rules for dogs. It’s hard to remember, but not everyone likes dogs! It could be terrifying for some people to have your dog bark and run up to them on the trail – or just plain rude to allow your wet, dirty dog to crash some other hiker’s picnic lunch. Help others see that those of us who hike with our dogs really care about others and the wilderness. We want to see it remain available and untouched for all to enjoy — dogs included!
Respect the wilderness as a precious and fragile treasure. “Take only memories, leave only paw prints.”
The Hiking Dog Basics
When you’re heading out for a hike – whether it be a quick romp through your local woods or an all-day adventure – remember this rule of thumb about what to bring: If you need it, your dog will likely need it too. For even the shortest of hikes, you will probably need to bring a few basic items:
A Leash
Of course. Even if the area is open to off-leash dogs and your dog is reliably responsive to your voice control, you may need a leash under certain circumstances (like if you run into a skunk on the trail and don’t want your friendly dog to investigate).
Identification
Your dog should always wear identification, with your contact numbers and, if you have traveled far from home, the best number to reach you locally. (See “Proper Identification Tags,” WDJ October 2001 for sources of permanent and temporary identification tags.)
Plastic Bags for Scooping Poop
If you’ll be a distance from a trash can, take an extra, heavy duty Ziploc bag for double-bagging so you can stash the goods in a pack.
Water for You and Your Dog
A hiking dog may need to drink two to three times as much as he does when hanging out at home. Give your dog drinks of water frequently when hiking. Use caution not to wait until your dog is so thirsty that he’ll want to drink too much, too fast.
Note: It’s not a good idea to let your dog drink straight from streams, rivers, or lakes as many harbor waterborne diseases such as giardia. If it’s not safe for you to drink, it’s probably not safe for your dog.
Snacks and Training Treats
I get hungry when I hike so I bring raisins, cheese, apples, and other yummy snacks. My dogs are always hungry, but they get a bit more so when hiking too. I like to give my dogs’ their hiking snacks as rewards for sticking close and coming when called.
First Aid Kit
You may not need to bring a first aid kit for a short walk in a local park or close to home, but for longer hikes and wilderness adventures, a first aid kit for you and your dog is a must.
In addition, you may want to have a few items stashed in your car, for those “just in case” moments. If your dog enjoys romping through puddles and creeks, or is likely to roll in that delightfully smelly something, grooming supplies can make the ride home a little more pleasant for the human half of the team. I like to bring a couple of dog towels, a jug of water, and a comb and brush. That way I’m prepared for Blue’s mud baths and Jesse’s odoriferous rolls. Plus, I’d rather leave the ticks and burrs at the trailhead than carry them home in the car!
Other Gear and Gizmos
While the “basics” above will be enough for many adventures, you may want to consider a few additional items:
Dog Booties
When I think about hiking, especially long hikes, I think about how to avoid blisters on my feet. My dog’s feet may need protecting, too – especially if I’m hiking over rough surfaces, hot sand, or through the snow.
Dog booties come in a variety of sizes, styles, and materials and it’s important to pick a type that will be both easy to put on and appropriate for the elements. Nylon or neoprene booties that fasten with Velcro are easy to get on and off your dog. Look for booties with heavy duty soles, such as those made with Cordura. Leather booties lace up and are a bit of a task to get onto a dog’s paws, but may hold up well in seriously rough conditions (like traveling over shale or volcanic rock). Polarfleece may be a good choice in cold and snow. (For a review of dog booties, see “The Best Boots for Your Dog,” WDJ January 2001.)
Dog Packs
Many dogs love carrying packs. Most dogs who weigh more than 30 pounds can safely carry a pack. Hip dysplasia, back problems, and other health issues can make packing unsafe for some dogs, so if your dog has any health problems, it’s a good idea to check in with your veterinarian before fitting your dog with a pack.
Dog packs come in different sizes and styles, from daypacks to heavy-duty mountaineering packs. If you’d like your dog to pack his own stuff, you’ll want to train him to wear the pack before you head out on the trail.
Get your dog used to wearing a pack:
Most dogs love wearing packs once they get used to them. Strutting down the trail on hikes or backpacking trips, your dog can help lighten your load. Dog packs come in a variety of styles, from daypacks to heavy-duty mountaineering packs.
Just how much weight can a dog carry in a pack? Most experts suggest that the average dog not carry more than about 10 percent of his body weight. Packs vary in size from small to extra large, and should be carefully fitted to your dog. And, as with people packs, the more padding they have the more comfortable they will be for long treks. Many packs have padding along the saddle and the straps. Here are a few additional tips to ensure comfort and safety.
The pack needs to fit properly. It should ride high on the dog’s shoulders and the straps should be snug but loose enough so that you can stick your finger between the strap and the dog’s body. Your dog should be able to move his legs freely, and he should be able to lie down in the “Sphinx” position without the pack touching the ground.
Balance the pack. If your dog is carrying his food, for example, divide it into two bags and put one on each side of the pack. Also, pack heavy items near the bottom and lighter items near the top.
Use plastic bags to protect items that could be damaged by moisture. Dogs always get wet when you don’t expect them to.
Spending a little time getting your dog used to wearing a pack before you hit the trail will pay off with a happy hiker:
Make the experience fun. The first time you show your dog the pack, have a handful of treats in your pocket. Place the empty pack across your dog’s back and focus his attention on you. When he stands for a moment with the pack on, give him a treat. Then take the pack off and repeat the process. When he stands easily with the pack on his back (for some dogs this happens after a few times, for others it can take 10 times or more), you can go on to the next step.
Fasten the empty pack securely around your dog and take him for a short walk in a safe, comfortable place. This could be around your neighborhood or even in your backyard. If your dog is at all hesitant about the pack, continue to feed him treats and keep his attention on you. Repeat this a few times until you are sure your dog is comfortable with the pack on his back.
When your dog can walk comfortably with the empty pack, start adding light items. At first, put in soft items that won’t shift around with the dog is walking. Gradually increase the weight in the pack until your dog can easily and happily carry 10 percent of his body weight.
Watch out. Once your dog is a happy hiker and packer, he may start subtly suggesting that you take longer, more adventurous hikes – or even head out on a backpacking trip.
Collapsing Water Bowls and Handy Bottles
I love those collapsing water bowls, the kind that fold or twist and can be stashed in a pack. And the water bottles with built-in bowls for dogs to drink from? Very cool. In a pinch, however, you can use an extra plastic bag; simply roll down the sides for an “instant” bowl.
Protection from the Elements
Being too hot or too cold can be dangerous for people and dogs. Be sure that you are both prepared for the expected conditions – and if you’re going more than a few miles, make sure you are prepared for the unexpected, too. For example, if your dog needs a sweater or coat for cold days at home, take one along on your hike if the conditions warrant it. If you’re taking a long hike or backpacking in extreme conditions, check into a lined parka with a waterproof shell for your dog; she’ll appreciate it.
In addition, be sure your pooch doesn’t overheat on your adventure. Keep her cool by wetting her down.
Wildlife Encounters on Hikes
I’d like to say that every wild animal encounter will be as pleasant as the day Jesse and I spent a few moments in the company of the coyote. Most are, but there are exceptions, and “better safe than sorry” is a code all hikers should follow. Certain wild creatures can pose a real danger to you and your dog. It’s not just the big animals (like mountain lions and bears) that can be trouble, either. Some of the biggest risks come from the smallest beings.
Ticks, spiders, and other things that crawl can certainly be trouble for dogs. In many states, for example, ticks carry Lyme’s disease. In other areas, they may carry Rocky Mountain spotted fever. If you’re hiking where ticks live, check your dog frequently and remove any that you find. Some places are home to black widow or brown recluse spiders, both of which can be dangerous to dogs. Most snakes, scorpions, and toads are not harmful to dogs (your dog will generally pose more of a risk to them!), but there are a few exceptions. Rattlesnakes, copperheads, cottonmouths, and coral snakes, for example, can all be dangerous to dogs.
Perhaps I don’t need to mention the problems with a dog running into a skunk? But in case you haven’t considered it, just imagine the car ride home if your dog does decide to investigate a skunk.
Wild dogs, mountain lions, and bears are all serious concerns. If you are traveling in an area where these animals live, it is imperative that your dog is with you and on leash at all times.
Small furry creatures, like gophers, squirrels, and mice, will generally be in more danger from dogs than the other way around, as will deer and elk. Don’t allow or enable your dog to chase animals – for his safety and theirs. A simple chase, even if your dog is not likely to catch or hurt them, can tire an animal, making it an easier target for another predator. A dog chasing any animal can easily become lost – many people have permanently lost their dogs in this very way. And a dog who becomes accustomed to chasing every animal he sees is likely to cause a serious accident someday, when he encounters someone on a horse.
Along with taking care around animals, you’ll want to be aware of other natural features that may pose a hazard to you or your dog. For example, fast-moving or very cold water can also be dangerous. And some dogs are oblivious to the risk of cliff edges; keep them close to you.
If the area where you hike features poison oak, ivy, or sumac, take special care to protect yourself. Dogs seldom suffer the itchy, painful rash associated with these three plants. A more realistic fear is that your dog will play in the poisonous plant, and the oils will get on you when you pet him.
The rash that humans get from these infamous plants is caused by a chemical called urushiol, which is present in the plant’s leaves, bare branches, and even its roots. Under hot, humid conditions, the poisonous oil becomes harmless in about a week. However, under dry conditions, the oil can retain its harmful effect for as long as six weeks.
If you are particularly sensitive to the rash, keep your dog away from these plants, even if it means keeping him on leash for the entire hike. If he does romp through the plants, try not to touch him until you’ve bathed him, which you should do as soon as possible. Use a soap (like Fels Naptha laundry bar) or a commercial solution formulated to cut the oil, and wear rubber gloves and protective clothing.
Hiking is Habit-Forming
Don’t be scared off by all of these words of caution and hints at possible dangers. In the 25 years I’ve been hiking with dogs, I’ve only encountered problems a handful of times, and none was terribly serious.
Still, it’s good to know what might be there, so that you can take the simple precautions needed to protect yourself and your dog. If you’re new to hiking or traveling to a new area, how do you find out what animal, plant, and other natural dangers might be found along the trail? Many trailheads have signboards that will update you on animal sightings and any special dangers.
If the area you are visiting has a ranger station, you may be able to call ahead and ask. You can also quiz people who have visited the area and look in the guidebooks. If these options aren’t available, simply be aware of your surroundings and use common sense.
Hiking is, in my opinion, one of the most wonderful experiences you can share with a dog. Traveling down a trail together lets you share the adventure and fun. Plus, when hiking with a dog, you will get to see the wilderness through different eyes – your dog’s. Pay attention when her ears go up, or when she lifts her nose to the wind. Her canine curiosity may lead you places you would never go on your own.
For more information on hiking, backpacking, camping, and other outdoor adventures with your dog, check out Ruffing It: The Complete Guide to Camping with Dogs, by Mardi Richmond and Melanee L. Barash. The book includes what-to-bring checklists, tips for getting your dog into shape for long hikes, a complete first aid section tailored to outdoor adventures, and much more.
Summer is upon us, with its irresistible invitation to visit parks, trails, and beaches, accompanied by our favorite canine companions. Along with the doggie days of summer comes the hidden threat of dehydration – for us and our dogs – and its deadly companion, heat stroke.
Every good hiker knows how important it is to stay hydrated. We also know that water can be hard to come by on those rugged mountaintop trails, and that the only water at some beaches is briny and undrinkable. What’s a responsible canine caretaker to do?
Lots of dogs have learned to lap from the end of their guardian’s sports bottle, but that coats your sports bottle tip with dog slobber, and wastes the water you worked so hard to bring along. Pet product companies have come to the rescue. The active dog owner can choose from a variety of water bottles designed with the hiking hound in mind.
A good dog bottle should be sturdy, easy to fill, easy to dispense water from, hold an ample water supply, come with a workable dish from which your dog can drink, be comfortable to carry, not leak (duh!), and be reasonably priced. Insulated sleeves to keep water cool are a bonus, and also provide a nice padded cushion for that bottle that is banging on your hip.
We evaluated five water bottles, and found at least a couple that we would be more than happy to take along on our next hike.
We like how the Walk-n-Water, a relatively tough, flask-shaped plastic bottle laid comfortably flat against our side when we slipped the nylon carrying-strap over our heads. Plus, the bottle and its own plastic water bowl snap together snugly to make a tidy, unobtrusive package. The bottle does not leak, either lying down, held upright, or even held upside down. It holds about four cups of water and is easy to fill.
We especially appreciated the products that allowed humans and dogs to share the water – without having to share the bowl! With its separate bowl for the dog, and a pop-up spout similar to those on sports bottles, you can squeeze water into the bowl, and drink from the spout yourself. The mid-range price on our top-rated bottle is icing on the cake!
The plastic water bottle provided with the thermo-Sac holds 1.5 liters (about six cups) – the greatest capacity of any of the products we evaluated, making it a better choice, perhaps, for those all-day hikes with multiple dogs. But we found it less comfortable to carry than the flatter, sleeker Walk-n-Water; being rounder, the thermo-Sac bangs more against your side.
Banging aside (sorry), we liked the sunshine-yellow insulated water bottle carrier with its matching folding water bowl. The top of the insulated sleeve zips open in order to accept the bottle. The bottle slides in snugly but easily. It takes a little extra pressure to pull the top over the bottle and fit the spout through the hole provided for that purpose, but it wasn’t difficult, and it’s nice that the bottle absolutely cannot bounce in or fall out of the carrier. The insulation keeps the water cool for several hours.
The soft, folding water bowl (the pet-Sac) attaches to the carrying-strap with a Velcro loop, so it is easy to remove for use at watering time. Again, it’s wonderful to be able to drink from the bottle yourself, and squeeze water into the bowl for your dog, without having to worry about swapping germs.
However, we would appreciate a second strap that goes around the wearer’s hips, or something else that could keep the bottle from banging against the person carrying it, and we would probably stuff the foldable bowl into our daypack or pocket rather than leaving it attached to the strap, where it can get in the way.
Like our top choice, the Handi-Drink2! plastic water bottle also snaps into its own dish, but the similarity ends there.
This is a round bottle that folds into a box-shaped trough that the dog can drink from, so it doesn’t lie as neatly against the hiker’s side as the Walk-n-Water. The unit either clips onto your belt or daypack by a plastic hook, or hangs around your neck by a slender nylon cord. Yes, cord; this is the only product we found meant for carrying water that didn’t come with a wide nylon strap. Just imagine that cord cutting into your neck or shoulder! This must explain why we see these bottles in people’s hands at the dog park, but we don’t see them out on the trail.
Also, the water-dispensing nozzle is made of rubber or rubberized plastic, with several slits cut in it, so as to release water into the trough when the bottle is squeezed. Unfortunately, there is no way to close the slits, so while the bottle does not leak when upright or laid flat on a surface, any inadvertent squeezing causes water to ooze out. It has a smaller capacity bottle than our top choices – holding only about 2 cups, but it is the least expensive of the water bottles we evaluated. This product may be fine for short hikes, but don’t cross a desert with it!
We found the Cool Pooch Bottle sold all by itself in stores, and we also found it sold by thermo-Sac, Inc., in combination with that company’s dual-Sac for $16. We like the insulated sleeve – which keeps water bottles cool and gives you a nylon shoulder strap or a Velcro belt-loop option. But we’re not fans of the Cool Pooch bottle.
It’s a clever idea, however: a plastic bottle that enables a dog and a person to share the water, with the person sipping from a straw, and then using that straw to squeeze more water into a separate cup. It’s a good idea, but in our opinion it takes a little too much work to make it work, at least, when serving the dog. A person can sip water directly from the bendable straw. To fill up the dog’s cup, one bends the tube, pointing it into the cup, and squeezes the bottle to force water into the cup for the dog to drink. Three hands would work better than two: one to bend the tube and two to squeeze the bottle (and then there is the matter of holding your dog’s leash at the same time).
The bottle’s wider mouth makes it easy to fill, but its shape and protruding tube are annoying when the bottle is worn around the neck or over a shoulder. Also, the bottle leaked if it was laid on its side and leaked more when squeezed. On the plus side, it has a capacity of 22 ounces (almost three cups).
The Travel Canteen is a plastic version of the good ol’ Western movie canteen, except that instead of unscrewing a small cap, the entire top unscrews to reveal a bowl that the dog can drink from. And therein lies the rub. When the canteen arrived, we couldn’t get the top off to save our lives! It took several people and several attempts to accomplish, and when we finally got the lid off, we found directions inside, along with a warning not to screw the top on too tightly, and not to leave it where it can get too hot, which contributes to the lid-lock. The instructions indicated that placing the canteen in a refrigerator for a couple of hours would break the seal.
This is a pretty serious design flaw for a canteen – what good will it do your dog in the middle of the desert if you can’t get the lid off?
So, while it holds an ample amount of water (four cups), certainly doesn’t leak, and is reasonably comfortable to wear, we’d advise against this one. Oh, and you wouldn’t want to share this water, either, once your canine pal slobbers into the bowl.
As is often the case, following publication of our review of frozen, raw-meat-based diets, we learned about a number of makers of these diets, of whom we were previously unaware. As a service to our readers, we have listed product information for the companies whose products we just learned about; we’ll include them in our frozen food review next year.
———-
Correction on frozen food
Also on the topic of our article on frozen diets, please note the following corrections. First, Nature’s Menu’s diets are formulated to meet or exceed the dog food nutrient profiles of the Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO). Nature’s Menu is one of the few companies whose products we reviewed have been substantiated as complete and balanced for all life stages, even without the addition of supplements or vegetables, which would contribute additional nutrients.
Second, we indicated that the product sample we received from Nature’s Menu had arrived defrosted. We have confirmed with the company that this was due to a shipping error, where the product was supposed to have been delivered overnight but was not. A company representative has assured us that Natures Menu would gladly reship product at no further expense to any consumer who experienced this problem. Nature’s Menu may be reached at (800) 909-7010 or www.naturesmenu.com.
We regret any misunderstanding that may have resulted from these errors.
———-
Harness corrections
We also heard from a reader who had two comments about the review on harnesses (Harness the Power, May 2002). Bobbi Palsa, of Richmond, Virginia, wrote, “as a loyal customer of both WDJ and Premier Pet Products, I wanted to point out that your comment regarding Premier’s harness that their smallest size is 12 inches should be amended to say that they will make custom sizes on request! My Great Dane, Catherine, is proud to model her custom-made Premier Surefit Harness and finds it perfectly suited for her many public appearances and social engagements!”
Finally, the prices we listed for the Premier harnesses were the wholesale, not the retail prices. The actual range is $14-20. We apologize for any confusion this caused.
To continue reading this article or issue you must be a paid subscriber. Sign in
If you are logged in but cannot access this content, a) your subscription may have expired; b) you may have duplicate accounts (emails) in our system. Please check your account status hereorcontact customer service.
Immediate access to this article and 20+ years of archives.
Recommendations for the best dog food for your dog.
Dry food, homemade diets and recipes, dehydrated and raw options, canned food and more.
Brands, formulations and ingredients all searchable in an easy-to-use, searchable database.
Plus, you’ll receive training and care guidance to keep your dog healthy and happy. You’ll feed with less stress…train with greater success…and know you are giving your dog the care he deserves.
Subscribenow and save 72%! Its like getting 8 issues free!
Generally, I plan a mix of articles in every issue: training, healthcare, and nutrition. I also try to offer a mix of articles geared toward people with decades of canine experience and those that are more helpful to individuals who may be enjoying their first relationships with dogs.
I try to make sure that the introductory information I offer is not too basic for the experts in our audience, but I also have a clandestine intent: I hope that you experienced pack leaders will share this information with the relative pups you know.
Now, if you read the fine print in this magazine, you know that its a violation of WDJs copyright to actually copy and distribute our content. (Sorry! Since we dont sell ads, we rely on subscription and back issue orders to pay the printer, so to speak.) However, Ive got nothing against your loaning a copy to a friend or relative who is considering getting a dog, or having trouble with a dog. (I do suggest that you write yourself a note to remember to whom you loaned that issue, because chances are, you might need it again in the future!)
Pointing your dog-loving friends in the direction of dog-friendly training methods and beneficial healthcare approaches does their dogs and them a huge favor. I wish someone had opened my eyes about commercial dog food, overvaccination, pesticide use, and the fallout of force-based training methods when my 12-year-old Border Collie was a puppy. I often wonder how different his physical and mental health status would be if I had done everything that I know about now with him then.
I even wonder if I would have gotten a Border Collie if I knew then what I know now. As much as I love my dog, Im not sure I will choose one of the energetic, often eccentric dogs again. I lucked out with Rupert as far as his energy level goes; hes happy when he gets out to run or play Frisbee with me, but hes also very content in his role as my under-desk dog. However, his idiosyncratic household and social behavior has been, at times, so unpredictable and offbeat, that I have, at times, wished I had a more normal dog. Twelve years ago I didnt know that normalcy is not one of the Border Collies strongest suits!
Anyway, two of the articles in this issue, I think, are must-reads for newcomers to the world of dogs. I predict that Pat Millers article on finding the exact kind of dog you want (When Only a Purebred Will Do) and CJ Puotinens article on adding a holistic practitioner to your dogs healthcare team (Coordinating Care) will prevent many people from making common mistakes with their dogs and maybe even save some dogs lives. Pass these articles on, will you?
Picture this: Two racing lanes, each with a row of four jumps leading up to mechanized boxes that throw tennis balls. Now imagine two teams, each with four ball-crazed dogs. The dogs are wound so tight that they can barely contain themselves. Their excited barking reaches a deafening pitch.
Suddenly, a light flashes green and the dogs are off. The first two dogs on each team race down their row of jumps and, with seemingly effortless motion, each dog banks off the box, hitting a pedal that shoots out the ball. If you blink, you’ll miss the ball catch as the dogs race each other back over the jumps. As the first two dogs cross the finish line, the next dogs on each team take off, passing at full speed. In less than 20 seconds, all four dogs on both teams have run the course, with the winning team crossing the finish only a split second ahead.
Tom Schaefges
Flyball racing is fast and furious. Most of all, it’s a great time for both dogs and people!
“The first time I saw Flyball, I laughed so hard that tears were streaming down my face,” said Jackie Earnshaw, Flyball enthusiast and owner of Sit Spot Dog Training in Boulder Creek, California. Earnshaw knew she liked Flyball from the start. “It was sheer joy, watching the dogs have such a good time.”
Lonnie Olson, author of Flyball Racing: The Dog Sport for Everyone, and founder of Dog Scouts of America, also got involved in Flyball racing because it looked like a fun thing to do with dogs. “Flyball offered fun, friendly, team competition, as an alternative to obedience competition – which was the only dog sport in popularity back in the early 80s.”
What is Flyball Racing?
“Dogs who like to play Flyball don’t just simply like it, they love it!” says Earnshaw, who is teaching Flyball to her Rottweiler, J.B., and recently founded a new Flyball group called the Box Rockers. With group and team names like Ballistics, Mighty Mutts, Box Rockers, Tail Spinners, and Rude Dogs, you know this sport is about honoring a dog’s true nature – to run, play, and have a blast.
Flyball is an obvious choice for ball-crazed dogs, but even if your dog is not into retrieving, he can be taught to hit the pedal, grab the ball, and race back to you.
“Some dogs who are not natural retrievers learn to retrieve, and then become ball crazed,” says Olson, who advocates teaching dogs to retrieve using clicker training and backward chaining. “The whole idea is that even if your dog doesn’t like the ball, he will gleefully retrieve to get the reward you are offering.” Olson teaches Flyball seminars and offers Flyball training at the Dog Scouts of America summer camps. She lives with three Border Collies, a mixed breed that looks like a Karelian Bear Dog, and a cattle dog (her husband’s dog) – all of whom enjoy Flyball.
But what if you have a dog who is too ball crazy? Flyball training is also a good opportunity to work with dogs with ball “issues.” For example, you can teach dogs who like to play keep away with retrieve objects to reliably bring the ball back. And for dogs that are out-of-control retrievers, Flyball is a good avenue to channel their drive, while helping them learn self-control.
Plus there’s the exercise factor. We’ve all heard the saying that, “A tired dog is a good dog.” Flyball works dogs hard, which may be part of why it appeals to both high-energy dogs and their human roommates. “It’s a wonderful energy burner,” says Earnshaw. “It gives the dogs a lot of exercise in a short amount of time, without a huge physical drain on the person.”
Any Dog Can Play Flyball
Flyball racing is open to any breed and any size dog. While speed-demon dogs like Border Collies and Jack Russell Terriers are obvious contenders for Flyball, they are not the only dogs that will enjoy and excel at the sport. According to the North American Flyball Association (NAFA, the organization that oversees tournaments in North America), there are more than 170 different breeds (including mixed breeds) registered to race in Flyball tournaments. In fact, NAFA’s top pointed dog for 2001 was a mixed breed.
Tom Schaefges
Long-legged dogs definitely offer a speed advantage, but smaller dogs, such as small mixed breeds or terriers, fulfill very important roles on a team. Since the smallest dog on the team determines the height of the jumps for the entire team, many teams include one small speedster to augment their speedy strategy. Don’t worry; a small dog doesn’t have to force a standard size tennis ball into his tiny mouth – in Flyball, smaller sized balls can be used if those are more comfortable for the dog.
Any dog that is physically able to run, jump, and bank off the box is a good candidate for Flyball. In addition, because dogs run in close proximity to other dogs – while in a highly aroused state – they must not display aggression toward other dogs.
Dog Skills for Flyball: Speed and More Speed
A Flyball course is 51 feet long with four jumps, spaced at 10-foot intervals. The first jump is placed 6 feet after the start/finish line, and the Flyball box is placed 15 feet after the fourth jump. The jump height is set at 4 inches lower than the smallest dog, with the minimum height being 8 inches and the maximum being 16 inches.
Each dog must run in relay fashion down the jumps, trigger the release of the ball, catch the ball, and then run back over the four jumps. The next dog is released to run the course, but can’t cross the start/finish line until the previous dog has returned and crossed the line. If a dog loses the ball or misses a jump, he must run again after the rest of the team has completed their turn. The first team to have all four dogs finish without errors wins.
Flyball is obviously about speed – and competitions are won and lost with fractions of seconds. But that doesn’t mean your dog (or your team) has to be the fastest of the fast to enjoy competition. In NAFA sanctioned tournaments, teams are divided into divisions so that they compete against other teams of equal abilities. That way every team has a chance at winning an individual race.
Dogs who run Flyball can earn points toward Flyball titles. To earn points, the team must complete the race within a certain amount of time (you don’t have to win to earn points, only complete the race). If a team’s race time is less than 32 seconds, each dog on a team will earn one point. If a team’s race time is less than 28 seconds, each dog earns five points. If a team’s race time is under 24 seconds, each dog earns 25 points. Titles are awarded for 20 points, 100 points, 500 points, 5,000 points, 10,000 points, 15,000 points, 20,000 points, and 30,000 points.
Sometimes, competitions are run for exhibition purposes only, without the team earning points toward a title. In addition, as with Agility and other dog sports, there is a current trend among some Flyball enthusiasts to promote a more casual or “for fun” avenue of the sport. In fact, Earnshaw founded the Box Rockers about a year ago because she was interested in having a group that focused more on getting together and having fun than on competition.
Flyball Fundamentals
Flyball racing seems straightforward – dogs run down the course, get the ball, and run back. But Flyball racing is actually a series of over 25 different behaviors put together. For a dog to run a course with speed and accuracy, each of the elements or behaviors needs to be carefully taught.
“I’ve seen dogs ‘get it’ (the basics) in one night of training,” says Olson when asked how long it takes to train a dog for Flyball. “However, that’s not the best way to train. I use a very systemized method, involving backward chaining, which makes the finished product much more flawless. There’s more to it than just learning to jump and learning to press a pedal and get a ball. Everyone should work at their own dog’s speed, and not be in a hurry to get to the finished product.”
Earnshaw also emphasizes a systematic approach to training dogs in Flyball. “It’s very important not to rush the dog,” says Earnshaw. “Laying a solid foundation from the start is very important.”
Some of the behaviors dogs need to learn include snatching the ball in the air, turning quickly, and returning to you. They need to understand single bounce jumping so they can run with maximum speed. They need to be able to push the pedal on the box, and then to catch the ball as it shoots out. They need to master turning off the box (called a swimmer’s turn) and be able to pass other dogs at full speed. When the dogs have these and other behaviors down, they need to learn to put it all together into a run.
Tom Schaefges
Olson considers passing the most exciting part of Flyball. “It is the thing that possibly the uneducated spectators notice the least, but is the biggest part of the sport,” says Olson. “Much work goes into creating precision passes.” The pass is, simply put, the part of the course where one dog crosses the finish line as the next dog on the team begins his run. The two dogs pass each other, often within inches at full speed and without losing concentration or speed. “The pass (or exchange, as they call it in Canada) will win or lose the race for a team. There’s only one thing more exciting for a Flyball enthusiast watching a race than seeing a tight pass, and that’s seeing a close finish!”
Olson and Earnshaw both stress that the best way to teach Flyball skills is through positive, motivational methods. For example, clicker training can be used to shape a dog to push the pedal on the box. Backward chaining – teaching the dog the last part of exercise first – is very effective in Flyball. With backward chaining, the dog learns that ultimately his reward comes when he finishes the course.
Finding Flyball
Flyball is a fast growing dog sport with teams and groups popping up in many areas. But as fast as it’s growing, Flyball is still relatively new and it’s sometimes difficult to find a group to train with. “You may have to look hard to find Flyball,” warns Earnshaw. She also points out that when you find a group, make sure that you are comfortable and that the group offers what you want for your dog.
Olson agrees. “Remember that this is a game. Find a group that uses a behavioral approach to training. But, most importantly, find a group of warm, friendly people that you can relate to. Your fellow team members are going to become like family. You should choose people who are fun, friendly, and fair.”
If you can’t find a group in your area, you can follow Earnshaw’s example and start your own. Olson’s book may also help you get started. Flyball Racing: The Dog Sport for Everyone, offers great tips on building equipment, training the dogs, putting together a team, and getting involved in competition.
When asked what she would tell someone who was interested in giving Flyball a try, Earnshaw responded enthusiastically, “Do it! It’s great fun for the dogs and hilarious for the people.”
And, if you’re not sure you want to try it with your dog, you may still want to find a Flyball tournament to watch. “Flyball is my favorite spectator sport,” says Olson. “You can keep your baseball and your drag racing. For me, I get excited just thinking about going to a Flyball competition!”
Here are some more resources for finding and playing flyball:
flyballdogs.com. This excellent Web site has everything you might want to know about Flyball, including information on training, equipment, finding a team near you, and more. Also, this is the place to get information about joining the Flyball e-mail list.
flyball.org. This is the Web site of the North American Flyball Association. You can learn more about the organization, get the latest points and tournament results or download a copy of the NAFA Rules.
Flyball Racing: The Dog Sport for Everyone, by Lonnie Olson. This book provides an excellent introduction to the sport of Flyball with information on building equipment and extensive training tips.
A Brief History of Flyball
Flyball was invented in the late 1970s. Rumor has it that a man named Herbert Wagner first showed Flyball on Johnny Carson’s The Tonight Show and that shortly thereafter, trainers and dog clubs from around the country were building Flyball boxes. The sport quickly grew in popularity and in 1985, the North American Flyball Association (NAFA) was formed by a group of 12 teams from Michigan and Ontario. NAFA standardized the rules, kept records of tournaments, and guided the development of Flyball racing. Flyball is now played throughout North America, Europe, Australia, and other countries. According to Brett Williams, chairman of NAFA, it is still the only governing body for the sport of Flyball in North America.
Lonnie Olson, one of the early board members of NAFA, says the sport of Flyball has changed dramatically over the years. According to Olson, Flyball got its name because it involves a mechanical box that throws out a ball for a dog to catch. In the original Flyball, the ball flew up high in the air. The dog would wait for the ball to come down, like an outfielder in baseball waits to catch a fly ball. As the dogs became more intense about the game, they began trying to catch the ball on its way up, instead of waiting for the ball to come back down. This, as you can imagine, became dangerous for the dogs. Olson said that some dogs began bashing their teeth on the “cup” that threw the ball. Flyball boxes started changing dramatically at that point, to create greater safety for the dogs. Today, most of the boxes do not have an exposed throwing arm. The ball is propelled out of a hole in the front of the box, and most dogs “catch” it before it sees daylight!
The technology for timing the races has also changed, says Olson. Historically, judges would time, officiate, and determine the outcomes of races. While judges still officiate, electronic timing systems are usually used in tournaments today. The timing systems not only time the races, but also detect infractions and signal (with red lights) infractions made by false starts or premature passes during racing. Because of changes in the box and other technology, the winning times for Flyball dogs have decreased. Back in 1985, Olson’s team was declared the “Flyball Champions” with a best time of 32 seconds. Today, many teams run the course in less than 20 seconds.
Flyball grows in popularity with every competition and public exhibition. Today, NAFA has more than 300 member clubs with more than 7,000 registered dogs.
Mardi Richmond is a freelance writer who lives in Santa Cruz, California. Richmond and her dog, Blue, are just learning the sport of Flyball, but they’ve already realized that it may offer the most fun a ball-driven dog can have. Mardi also teaches Just for Fun Agility classes and is the co-author of Ruffing It: The Complete Guide to Camping with Dogs.
For a machine to work properly, it requires the manufacturer’s recommended fuel, lubrication, and maintenance. The same is true for our dogs (and ourselves). In the wild, every creature will find and choose the foods most suitable for its evolutionary development. Our dogs evolved to eat – mostly – other animals. Their strong jaws were designed to crush bones, and their sharp teeth to tear raw meat. So say the innovators who developed so-called “BARF” diets for dogs. BARF is an acronym that stands for either Biologically Appropriate Raw Food, or Bones And Raw Food; the terms are used interchangeably.
There are thousands of dog guardians who feed their dogs homemade BARF-based diets, buying all the ingredients and preparing their dogs’ meals from scratch. People who utilize home-prepared diets are happy to discuss the many benefits of this feeding method for their dogs, including clean, tartar-free teeth; fresh breath; strong bones, muscles, and joints; a glossy coat; a healthy amount of energy and a balanced temperament; and overall vibrant good health.
For all the people who have made the leap to a homemade, meat-based diet for their dogs, however, there are many more who would like to make the change, but who are intimidated by the challenge of “getting it just right.” Some are afraid of failing to present their dogs with a balanced array of nutrients; others fear bacterial contamination from handling raw meats.
It’s all here
The advent of the commercially prepared, frozen meat-based diet is the answer to these people’s prayers. Today, more than a dozen companies offer their versions of the BARF diet, so it’s almost as easy as buying and feeding kibble. These products are a convenient, safe way to feed a raw-meat diet. Most of these diets are intended to be fed as a dog’s “complete and balanced diet,” although a few manufacturers also market supplemental meats and meat-based foods. Some are available only in a local area, while others are available nationally. Some are quite comparable in price to food that you might buy and prepare yourself; others are more expensive, but generally make up for this in the high quality of the ingredients.
There are definite differences, however, so it’s good to do a little footwork up front to find the company with the product (and pricing) that works best for you. We contacted 15 BARF manufacturers and discovered widely differing philosophies about everything from what should be in the mix to how the food should be shipped to your door.
The latter is actually an important point. While a few pet food and health food stores around the country are starting to carry these foods in freezers in their pet food sections, chances are you’ll have to mail order your food. We found significant differences in the quality of the shipping packaging, which can make a difference if your food is likely to sit on the porch until someone gets home to put it in the freezer.
To ensure that your dog benefits from an improved diet, choose the products that work most comfortably for your budget and your lifestyle.
Based on bones
The inclusion of fresh, raw bone in a BARF diet is supposed to be key to its resemblance to a dog’s evolutionary diet – and to its benefits. But only some of the manufacturers whose products we examined include bone.
Some manufacturers utilize beef bone in their mixtures, but others found it too difficult to grind the bone fine enough or to find a reliable source of organic beef bones. These manufacturers use ground chicken bones instead. Some companies add calcium supplements to their products. A final group sells – and recommends that you feed – a separate bone or calcium supplement.
Don’t forget the veggies
All the manufacturers see vegetables as an essential part of a dog’s diet, although not all of them include them in their meat mixes.
Celeste Yarnall, owner of Celestial Pets, recommends that 40 percent of the dog’s diet be carbohydrates from fiber-rich fruits and vegetables, plus a small amount of grain such as slow-cooked oatmeal. The other 60 percent of the diet, she says, should be half low-fat, raw meat or poultry protein, and half bones and supplements.
Dr. Ian Billinghurst, one of the earliest proponents of the BARF diet and recent founder of BARFWorld, a new raw dog food company, recommends a different ratio: 60 percent raw, meaty bones; 15 percent crushed vegetables: 10 percent offal (organs and intestines); 5 percent fruit; and the remainder as supplements such as kefir and kelp.
Most of the manufacturers mix the veggies into their products. A few offer a choice of meat or meat and vegetable mixes. A third group sticks to straight meat mixes and suggests you add your own veggies. One company (Three Cheers Raw! Raw! Raw!) offers a “Raw Slaw” that is a vegetable mix you add to their meat mixes; it looked and smelled so good I wanted to try it myself! Its label also includes suggestions for adding your own fruits and veggies.
The other thing to look for is whether the vegetables are fresh or frozen before they’re processed. You won’t find this information on the label, so if it’s important to you, go ahead and ask. Most use fresh and organic fruits and vegetables.
Grain isn’t for every dog
Grain is a small part of the diet in the wild, finding its way into the mix when a wild carnivore eats grain-eating prey. Most of the BARF mixes we looked at were grain-free, but this varies by company and even by product. Check the ingredients to make sure your dog isn’t getting something he can’t tolerate (all the companies clearly list their ingredients).
Don’t panic, it’s organic
Most of the companies whose products we examined use human-grade meats. Some go one step further and use only hormone- and antibiotic-free meats. Organic vegetables and grains may be found in some of the products, too.
Holistic veterinarians agree that reducing the toxic burden that our dogs must carry through their lifetime contributes to better health and longevity. Because most dogs are exposed to a plethora of pesticides, herbicides, cleaning agents, and other chemicals in their short lifetimes, holistic practitioners argue that their food, at least, should be as pure as possible. We’d give bonus points to manufacturers who strive to include organic ingredients in their products.
Supplemental information
Some of the products we examined are guaranteed to be “complete and balanced,” meaning a dog eating them would require no further supplements. But some of the companies sell meat-based mixes that are intended to be supplemented. And, of these companies, some make and sell the supplements themselves, and others advise and/or encourage owners to choose and add supplements themselves.
“We like to keep it simple,” says Tim McCallean of Grandad’s Pet Foods. “We’ve been doing this for 30 years, and we think it works best when we provide the basics and encourage the dog owner to work with the veterinarian or breeder to determine what supplements to add based on the animal’s health and activity.”
The kibble question
The principals at two companies, Steve’s Real Food for Dogs and Grandad’s Pet Foods, believe it’s all right to mix the BARF with kibble if that makes it more affordable. They reason that it’s better for a dog to have at least part of his diet providing fresh, wholesome nutrients, even if the rest of the diet is less beneficial. Steve’s Real Food is even made to look like large kibble nuggets so it mixes easily with dry food. “Eighty-five percent of our customers mix our food with dry kibble,” says Steve Brown, of Steve’s Real Food. “We’ve found that even if just 25 percent to 50 percent of the calories come from our food, the dogs thrive.”
Most of the other manufacturers we talked with felt it was okay to mix their products with the dog’s usual kibble or canned food during the introductory phase to help the dog’s digestive system adapt, but the goal was to eliminate cooked, processed foods and replace them with a whole, raw food diet.
Dr. Ian Billinghurst makes a point in his latest book, The BARF Diet, that carbohydrates, a major constituent of most kibble foods, are not an essential, or even natural part of a dog’s diet. He points to research that shows how a carbohydrate-based diet leads to a rise in blood glucose, which in turn causes a pathological rise in insulin. This leads to conditions such as diabetes, obesity, arthritis, and inflammatory illnesses. It may also play a role in promoting cancer, he says.
The bottom line
Our observations about a dozen commercial raw, frozen diets are charted on the next two pages (see sidebar at end of story). We are aware of a couple more commercial diets, but their makers declined to participate in our survey.
If you want more information before you decide if BARF is something you want to try, do contact the manufacturers. A number of them have good research about their diets and all welcome the opportunity to share what they’ve learned through research and personal experience. Contact information is included in the table on the next page.
As with many natural health alternatives, it can take a while for the mainstream medical world to discover and embrace the benefits of something that isn’t backed by large companies. WDJ has published many articles on the benefits of home-prepared diets, and will present more soon (see sidebar, “Raw Information, Past and Future”).
Not long ago, the Miller five-dog pack consisted of two mixed-breed and three purebred dogs – a Scottish Terrier, a Pomeranian, and an Australian Kelpie. Of the purebreds, one was found as a stray, one was adopted from an animal shelter, and one was rehomed from a friend who could no longer keep her.
I get several calls every week from people asking me to refer them to a breeder. But it has been more than 20 years since we purchased a dog from a breeder, and I’d wager that I’ll go to my grave without ever purchasing another. Decades of work in animal protection made me painfully aware of the easy availability of any breed of dog your heart might desire.
The Top Five Caveats of Purebred Dog Buying
1. Research your desired breed carefully to avoid common breed problems. Each breed has certain defects entrenched in its gene pool.
2. Hold your breeder to an unreasonably high standard. Buying a puppy from a less-than-responsible breeder encourages that breeder to continue making contributions to the pet overpopulation problem. If you do buy from a breeder, be sure to buy from one who meets the description above as closely as possible.
3. Don’t fall into the “fad breed” trap. Learn about the breed that appeals to you – don’t get a Jack Russell because of Wishbone, a Border Collie because of “Babe,” or a Siberian Husky because you liked “Snow Dogs.” All three of those breeds can present above-average challenges to the novice dog owner.
4. Watch out for “breeder deals.” Unscrupulous breeders often try to unload their unsold adolescent pups who are now beyond the “cute” stage, or their “used up” breeding stock, with some story about how the dog was a show prospect who didn’t quite make it, and he’s willing to give you a really good deal. In fact, these dogs are often very poorly socialized, have had no training whatsoever, and are a real liability to the breeder, who should be paying you to take the dog off his hands. If anything the breeder tells you sounds “off,” it probably is. If you do take one of these breeder deals, be prepared to invest in the services of a good behavior consultant.
5. Avoid unreasonable expectations. Not every Collie can grow up to be a Lassie. If your German Shepherd pup’s ears never stand tall like they are supposed to, your Bichon Frise never makes it to Madison Square Garden, or your Australian Kelpie is afraid of cows, will you love her despite her flaws, and fulfill your commitment to love and keep her until death do you part?
The fact is, purebred dogs are everywhere. You can find them at shelters, in rescue groups, free in the newspaper, running loose in the streets, for sale by breeders, and, unfortunately, in pet stores. There are pros and cons to acquiring your next family member from any of these sources; you can find good dogs from any one of them, but each venue can also supply you with dogs with minor to severe health and behavior problems. Much of the dog breeding industry seems to subscribe to the “caveat emptor” philosophy. The average dog owner is very much on her own when it comes to acquiring a new canine companion, and she’d best be very wary, indeed. Let’s examine the good, the bad, and the ugly of each source of purebred dogs.
Ways to Find Specific Dog Breeds: Pros and Cons
Breeders
If you have any intention of showing your dog in conformation (or “breed” ring), she must have registration papers. If you want to be successful competing in the breed ring, you must have a very good quality dog with papers. There are good breeders who sell good quality dogs and bad breeders who sell unsound and unhealthy dogs. Both sell puppies with papers. Sadly, the irresponsible breeders abound, while the good ones are scarce.
After more than 30 years of experience working in and around animal shelters – and having seen untold thousands of mixed-breed and purebred dogs euthanized for lack of homes – I have developed a pretty stringent definition of a “responsible breeder.” In my opinion, an ethical breeder produces puppies solely for the purpose of improving the breed; her purpose is to attempt to come up with the best dogs she can, not to make money.
In a good breeding program, sire and dam are thoroughly screened for any health problems known to be common to that breed, and pairings are based on a complete awareness and understanding of how one dog’s qualities complement the other’s. Dogs of questionable temperament or health are never bred, and dogs of breeding quality are shown and titled in conformation and at least one competitive canine sport, to demonstrate that they have brains as well as beauty.
The conscientious breeder provides extra nutrition for the dam before and during pregnancy to ensure that she and the puppies are all healthy, and doesn’t hesitate to seek whatever veterinary care is recommended during gestation, whelping, and puppy development.
Once the puppies are born, they are kept in a clean environment and socialized to the extreme – beginning at about four weeks of age – in order to prevent any possibility of behavior problems related to the puppies’ unfamiliarity with other people and the world around them. Good breeders even begin training their pups before they place them in new homes – giving them a head start on good manners and helping them to be comfortable in crates and away from the pack even before they leave their littermates.
A conscientious breeder screens new homes carefully, and does not just sell puppies to the first buyer who arrives with check in hand. If, upon direct questioning, the buyer admits he is new to the breed, she educates him about all aspects of that type of dog, not just the warm-fuzzy qualities.
Good breeders just don’t sell puppies before the age of eight weeks, and have pet-quality pups spayed and neutered prior to placement (juvenile spay/neuter techniques now allow eight-week-old puppies to be safely sterilized – see “Spaying and Neuturing Information“. These breeders will be happy to give you a number of names and phone numbers of people who have bought her dogs; call these people and ask whether they are happy with their dogs’ health and temperament. Pay attention if they say they no longer have the dogs!
A good breeder might insist on visiting the buyer’s home to inspect the pup’s intended environment, and may refuse to sell a puppy to a home that doesn’t have a safely fenced yard. A good breeder rarely sells two pups to the same buyer, knowing full well what a difficult challenge it is to raise two baby dogs together without behavior complications. Good breeders also rarely advertise in the newspaper, since they have taken care to have prospective buyers for any pups they produce long before the breeding takes place, and they never sell to pet stores.
Finally, a responsible breeder makes a commitment to always take back any pups that she has produced at any time during that dog’s life, if the new owners must give them up for any reason whatsoever.
As you can see, there are relatively few breeders who meet my admittedly stringent criteria. If more breeders were of this type, there certainly wouldn’t be so many purebred and crossbred dogs available from other sources, such as shelters and rescues. A breeder who does anything less contributes actively to the serious problem of pet overpopulation in this country.
On the positive side, a truly good breeder is a treasure. She produces healthy puppies of exceptionally good quality, provides a valuable education to those fortunate enough to purchase from her, is a wonderful resource for her buyers once the puppies have gone home, and becomes a lifetime friend to her puppies and their new families.
Of course, breeders are not the only source for purebred dogs, and purebred dogs don’t have to be registered in order to compete in many canine sports. Many organizations offer competitions and titles for mixed-breed and unregistered purebred dogs – they are more interested in performance than pedigree. Even the American Kennel Club, the biggest stickler for “purebred-only” policies, will issue “Indefinite Listing Privileges” to dogs who appear to be purebred, even if registration papers are not available. A dog with an ILP number may enter all AKC-sanctioned competitions, such as obedience and agility, except for the breed ring, and an ILP dog can earn all AKC sports competition titles.
So, read on to learn more about additional sources for purebred dogs!
Animal Shelters
Most people are astonished to discover how many purebred and crossbred dogs and puppies end up in our nation’s animal shelters. Over the past three decades I have visited and worked in shelters around the country, and not once did I fail to find purebred dogs in the adoption kennels.
There are lots of good reasons to adopt shelter dogs. First, you may well save a life. At many shelters, adoption dogs have a limited time to find a home before overcrowding forces animal care staff to make euthanasia selections. You might also save money – many adoption fees include a complete package of vaccinations, license, ID tags, and spay/neuter that cost far less than the price of the actual services from a private veterinarian – not to mention the initial cost of a puppy from a private source.
While some dogs end up in shelters because of behavior problems, most do not. Some have minor, easily addressed behaviors or health issues that the previous owner couldn’t be bothered to fix, while many have no problems at all – they may simply have wandered off and their owners didn’t care enough to come look or pay impound fees. Still other “perfect” pooches get left at shelters because their owners are going through lifestyle changes that don’t include Fido.
You do need to be careful when adopting from a shelter. If your local shelter has a deserved reputation for harboring distemper and parvovirus germs, you will want to range farther afield and adopt from one with a good disease control program. Also, some shelters also do a better job than others at screening their canine adoption candidates and matching them to appropriate homes. You may need the help of your favorite dog trainer to find the shelter diamonds in the rough.
The best shelters offer breed match-up services. You can go in and get approved as a prospective adopter and be put in their files for a particular breed. When a dog of your chosen breed comes in looking for a home, they can call you to come see it. It may take a little patience to wait for the right dog to come along, but it’s well worth the satisfaction of knowing you have given a shelter dog a second chance at life.
Breed Rescues
In the last couple of decades, animal rescue groups have gained high visibility for their work. Today, there is a rescue group for every breed imaginable as well as for crossbreeds and mixed-breeds, and there are rescue groups in every community. Rescue dogs come from a variety of sources, including shelters, breeders, private homes, Greyhound racetracks, and law enforcement actions against puppy mills and hoarders (animal collectors).
Like shelters and breeders, rescue groups may also range from very good to very bad. Good rescue groups offer dogs who are fully vetted, already spayed and neutered, and evaluated for behavior problems. They fully disclose any known or anticipated behavior challenges, and screen prospective adopters. A good rescuer is an expert in her breed, and will make sure you are prepared to manage the idiosyncrasies of your chosen breed.
Beware of rescuers who develop a hoarder syndrome. Animal lovers who do rescue work are sometimes unable to recognize when their responsibilities have come to outweigh their resources. Steeped in their mission to save lives, they may end up rescuing more animals than they can care for, or take animals who require far more rehabilitation than they, or the average adopter, can provide.
Be prepared to pay an adoption fee for your rescued dog. Good rescue groups make a significant commitment of resources to rehabilitate and place their wards. They are largely dependent on donations, and your adoption fees will help defray some of their operating and animal care expenses.
Newspaper Ads
Good breeders do not advertise in local newspapers; they don’t have to. Backyard breeders and puppy mills do frequently advertise there, and are not a recommended source for your new family member.
You can, however, find your ideal dog in the paper if you are careful, and if you can resist the temptation to fall for the first furry face you see. Look for a private owner who must place an individual dog for some reason – usually a lifestyle change, or a sober realization that the addition of a dog to the family was an unfortunate mistake. Be sure to take the time to evaluate the dog thoroughly before you take him home, and have a clear understanding with the owner about your ability to return him should he not work out for you.
Pet Stores
The only positive aspect of purchasing a puppy from a pet store is that you rescue that doggie in the window – that’s a good thing for that individual pup. However, while some people are perfectly happy with their pet store purchases, the risks related to buying pet store puppies so greatly outweigh the single good that we urge you to never even let the thought cross your mind.
For starters, when you purchase a pet store puppy, you support the horrendous puppy mill industry. Every dollar you spend to rescue that beguiling face in the window goes to produce, market, and sell more puppies who are raised in substandard conditions. By “freeing up” that puppy’s cage, in essence, you place the pet store owner’s order for more puppies, to be produced by mothers who are nothing more than breeding machines to the puppy farmer. Pay no attention to the store manager’s reassurances that their puppies come from “responsible breeders.” No responsible breeder sells puppies to pet stores. None.
Every breed of dog is burdened with the potential for specific diseases or medical conditions; when genes pass along traits for a specific coat type and color, conformation, and temperament, they also transmit the parent’s potential for hip dysplasia, heart defects, cancer, etc. The parents of pet store puppies are unlikely to have had any screening for the genetic defects – they may, in fact, be castoffs who actually suffer from the inherited conditions – so the chances are far greater that your pup will suffer from one or more of these debilitating defects in his lifetime. The puppies and their parents may have missed out on some important health care practices, such as good basic nutrition and deworming.
The sooner people stop buying pet store puppies, the sooner pet stores will stop selling them, and the sooner puppy mills and other irresponsible breeders will start going out of business.
Finders Keepers
Of course, you could always buy into the “No two alike” philosophy of dog-keeping. With this guide, and no preconceived idea of who we want our next dog to be, we are always open to our next serendipitous canine discovery. If we had our hearts set on a particular breed, we would have missed the opportunity to keep Dubhy, the piano-playing, skateboard-riding Scottish Terrier who wandered into our family last winter and has amused us with his no-fear attitude and Gaelic sense of humor ever since. Nor would we have had the joy of sharing our lives with Josie, the Terrier mix who crossed our paths 15 years ago during a cockfighting investigation, and who has been my teacher and guide on our positive training path ever since.
Get the Right Dog for the Job
There are 150 breeds of dogs eligible for registration with the American Kennel Club (AKC), the best-known breed registry in this country, and hundreds more recognized by other registries. When planning for your next four-footed family member, consider what purposes the dogs have been bred for, as well as the environment you can provide for him.
The AKC assigns their recognized breeds into seven groups, based on the uses for which the breeds were originally developed. They also have a Miscellaneous Class for breeds still under consideration for recognition. Other than Miscellaneous, however, the group that your desired breed falls into can tell you a lot about his likely characteristics.
SPORTING GROUP
These are the “bird dogs” – setters, spaniels, pointers, and retrievers – commonly used by hunters to seek out and retrieve “game” birds such as ducks, geese, pheasant, grouse, etc. They tend to be alert, have a lot of energy, show an affinity for birds, and be exceptionally oral – the retrievers especially. They need lots of exercise, and are bred to work very closely with humans, so tend to be pretty attentive to people.
HOUND GROUP
These are hunting dogs who either use their noses (scent hounds) or their eyes (sight hounds) to follow their prey. Both classes of hound are bred to take off after prey without worrying about where their humans are; their natural tendency is to be more environmentally-focused than human-focused. They are perfectly trainable, but the handler must work harder to convince the hounds that it is worth their while to play the training game. The scent hounds (Beagles, Foxhounds, etc.) tend to be very vocal, as they are bred to “sound off” when tracking prey.
WORKING GROUP
These dogs have been bred to perform such duties as guarding, pulling carts and sleds, and water rescue. The Mastiff is in this group, as are the sheep-guarding breeds, Rottweiler, Newfoundland, Husky, and several others. They are generally large, with a protective and somewhat independent nature, so we ought not be surprised that they can find themselves in grave trouble when neglected. Many of them (sled dogs excepted) tend to more placid than lots of other breeds. Despite its size, a Bernese Mountain Dog, for example, may be a better choice for apartment living than the diminutive but energetic and often vocal Jack Russell Terrier.
TERRIER GROUP
These feisty, energetic dogs range in size from fairly small, as in the Norfolk or Cairn Terrier, to the large Airedale Terrier. Because their ancestors were bred to hunt and kill vermin, terriers typically have little tolerance for other animals, sometimes includ
ing other dogs. They tend to be known as the group with an “attitude,” and are quite likely to take offense if you try to force them into compliance with your wishes.
TOY GROUP
These little guys are born with genetically enhanced lap instincts. If well-trained and socialized, these wonderful canines can make great companions, as well as therapy and service dogs. If not, they can be little terrors. Because of their tiny size, they are generally easy to control, so many owners do tend to skip training and overlook bad manners. Unfortunately, this has given some toy dogs a reputation for jumping up, “yapping,” and other annoying but easily prevented habits.
NON-SPORTING GROUP
This is AKC’s diverse group of dogs who don’t fit into any other category. There is no consistency here – they range from the Bichon Frise to the Chow-Chow. You will need to do more indepth research to determine if one of the Non-Sporting dogs is right for you.
HERDING GROUP
As the name implies, these dogs were bred to herd livestock on behalf of their slower human handlers. It stands to reason, then, that they have an above-average attraction to things that move (and a related, sometimes uncontrollable desire to nip aforesaid moving things). They also tend to be vocal, and possess high energy levels. Like the Sporting breeds, they do have an inbred tendency to work well with humans – it is no accident that Border Collies, Shetland Sheepdogs, and Australian Shepherds are top scorers in competitive obedience and agility. Their strong herding instincts, however, may make them ill-suited to live with children unless well-supervised; their natural desire to chase and nip can get them into trouble.
These brief cameos of the various breed groups don’t even begin to scratch the surface. If you are in the market for a new dog, give serious thought to who you want her to be – don’t fall for the first furry face you see. Then, research the breed thoroughly to be sure you’re prepared to accept the inherent behavioral tendencies that are likely to come with her.
If it’s too late for you to do pre-purchase research, at least read more about the dog who already shares your home, so that you understand better why he does what he does, rather than getting angry at him for being who he is. Understanding is the first step toward modifying unwanted behavior – anger just gets in the way of training.
Finally, remember that just because a breed has certain tendencies doesn’t mean that all members of the breed act that way. If your heart is set on a highenergy Border Collie who will win herding trials and agility titles, remember that some Border Collies are calm and some aren’t the least bit interested in sheep. Spend enough time observing the potential candidates to make sure you get a high-energy sheep-magnet.
A Word About “Registration Papers”
There are a number of organizations that register various breeds of dogs. The American Kennel Club and United Kennel Club are the most widely recognized and respected in this country, but even AKC and UKC registration papers are no guarantee of quality, or of mental or physical soundness. In fact, among unscrupulous individuals in the industry, paper-swapping and falsification is a not-uncommon practice. Say a litter of three Jack Russell Terrier puppies is born. An unscrupulous breeder can register a litter of five, and then have two extra sets of papers to apply to any spare Jack Russells who happen to come along.
Pedigrees can be even more confusing. A pedigree is a dog’s “family tree,” and tells a knowledgeable dog person a great deal about a dog’s breeding. Backyard breeders will point triumphantly to champions listed in red ink several generations back in a puppy’s pedigree and advertise puppies from “champion lines.” The average puppy buyer doesn’t realize that the absence of red ink in the most recent two or three generations of the pedigree speaks volumes about the lack of attention to quality in the current breeding program.
Pat Miller is WDJ’s Training Editor and the author of The Power of Positive Dog Training.
We’re all looking for the mythical “perfect veterinarian,” right? Most animal guardians I’ve known would gladly pledge their undying support to a veterinary practitioner who could offer high-tech diagnostic tools and skills; a deep knowledge of pathology, nutrition, and conventional medicine; and the ability and willingness to utilize appropriate alternative and complementary therapies.
Unfortunately, this “perfect vet” is an extremely rare find. Most of us – people who embrace both conventional medicine as well as herbs, chiropractic, acupuncture, and other holistic medicines – have to resort to “building” our perfect veterinarian. Most of us do this by assembling a team of healthcare providers, each of whom is consulted for diagnosis or treatments that he or she is best able to provide.
This is, admittedly, a less-than-perfect solution, because sometimes these gifted professionals strongly disagree about “what’s best,” and you and your dog are caught in the middle.
For example, what happens when your brilliant and local conventional practitioner – the person you rely on for routine examinations and emergency care – is adamant about administering annual vaccinations to all her patients (and you are opposed to them)? Or when the same veterinarian wants you to put your elderly Labrador on Science Diet’s anti-arthritis food and Rimadyl – but you know your dog is better-served by a raw diet, nutritional supplements, and monthly acupuncture treatments?
I’ve heard many stories from people who use holistic practices and get tired of being pressured by their conventional veterinarians to (over) vaccinate, use (sometimes harmful) drug therapy as a first (not last) resort, or feed their dogs a commercial (low-quality) kibble. Sometimes, in an effort to find more sympathetic veterinarians, these caring guardians replaced their conventional primary practitioner with a holistic veterinarian – only to be disappointed by this professional’s resistance to useful conventional medicine!
In order to best utilize a “team” or network of healthcare providers for our dogs, it’s best to be aware of some of the potential pitfalls, as well as the benefits, of this approach. The following experiences clearly illustrate both.
Finding her own path
Christine Swingle, who raises West Highland White Terriers in Connecticut, has spent years contemplating this problem. She became interested in holistic medicine in 1996, when Summer, one of her cherished Westies, was misdiagnosed by a veterinarian who had treated Swingle’s dogs for decades. Two weeks later, despite intensive care from specialists at a highly regarded animal hospital in Massachusetts, Summer died. Swingle turned her grief into determination to find a better way to keep her Westies healthy.
Guided by Juliette de Bairacli Levy’s Complete Herbal Handbook for the Dog and Cat, Swingle began feeding her dogs a well- balanced raw diet. “As I continued my research,” she says, “I realized how ignorant and isolated I had been all my life. Treating the whole patient instead of specific conditions was a giant shift for me, especially because I had been a vet tech for 18 years. Until then, I believed 100 percent in conventional allopathic medicine.”
In addition to changing their diet, Swingle stopped vaccinating her puppies and adult dogs and discarded all flea, tick, and heartworm chemicals. She and her sister soon visited a well-known holistic clinic. “My sister’s 11-year-old dog had cancer,” she explains, “and she wanted to avoid harsh treatments like chemotherapy and radiation. By comparing notes with other patients, I discovered that everyone who goes there receives the same standard list of diagnostics and treatment, regardless of the patient’s age, condition, history, or illness. Looking back, I think the clinic provided more false hope than anything else. My sister spent thousands of dollars on holistic remedies, but her dog died within a month.
“My own dog, Emma, who did not have cancer, did not respond to the clinic’s one-size-fits-all protocol, either. Ironically, it was allopathic medicine that helped Emma the most, not by healing or curing anything but by improving her quality of life.”
Then Swingle discovered homeopathy and began consulting a veterinary homeopath. “Homeopathy uses extremely dilute solutions of natural substances like plants or minerals to stimulate the body’s healing forces,” she explains. “It’s the opposite of allopathic medicine because instead of suppressing or attacking symptoms, homeopathy treats ‘like with like.’ That is, the remedy prescribed for an illness is the remedy that would normally produce the same symptoms as the disease. This way of stimulating the body’s healing mechanism made perfect sense to me. The Westies were thriving, and life was good – or so I thought.”
In 2001, Swingle took her champion-quality female, Hannah, to her homeopathic veterinarian for spay surgery. Tragically, there were complications during surgery, and Hannah ended up bleeding to death in her guardian’s arms, right there in the veterinarian’s surgery.
“I had assumed that whether allopathic or homeopathic, all veterinarians have the same fundamental training and set up their practices with the same modern equipment and trained staff,” says Swingle. “I did not realize that some homeopathic veterinarians cannot see the light beyond the medicine they practice, even when it means the patient’s life or death. In Hannah’s case, a homeopathic remedy was not going to correct her blood loss. I knew that, and I erroneously assumed that the vet did, too.”
Now Swingle is building a network of healthcare providers for her dogs, including a local allopathic veterinarian who handles emergencies and a veterinary homeopath whose office is a two-hour drive away.
The right person for the job
Like Christine Swingle, Nora Hayes has had good and bad experiences with holistic medicine. Four years ago, her eight-year-old Golden Retriever, Buster, led an active, healthy life. “Then his stride began to break down while walking,” she says. “Soon it grew more pronounced and turned into a definite hobble.” Hayes’ local veterinarian diagnosed a minor injury and prescribed rest and steroids.
At the same time, Hayes increased Buster’s visits to a holistic veterinarian, who also examined the dog and diagnosed the problem as a bruised rib. Despite conventional care, chiropractic adjustments, and acupuncture, Buster’s condition only worsened. Finally, the first veterinarian referred Buster to a neuromuscular specialist. “This man took one glance as we walked through the door,” Hayes recalls, “and announced that Buster had bone cancer.’”
A few minutes later, X-rays confirmed that diagnosis by showing a leg bone pocked with holes like Swiss cheese. “I was shocked,” says Hayes. “I thought the only question to be settled was whether his limp was due to a bruised rib, pulled muscle, or injured tendon. No one had suggested cancer, and it hadn’t crossed my mind.”
Hayes had to decide whether to put Buster down, amputate his leg, or do something else. “I was completely unprepared,” she says. “I hadn’t had time to consider the different options, and I didn’t even know what they were.”
Because Buster’s normal chest X-rays and overall condition made him an excellent candidate for amputation, which the specialist said would give him at least a year of pain-free life, Hayes agreed to immediate surgery. However, Buster’s recovery was interrupted by repeated relapses as the cancer spread to his ribs, and he soon died.
“Throughout this ordeal, I was upset, disappointed, and confused,” says Hayes. “Circumstances had put me in a position for which I had no experience or training, and that was very difficult. I had to act like a general contractor, coordinating the efforts of veterinarians who did not work together and who practiced very different types of medicine.”
Like Swingle, Hayes learned from her painful experience. She studied the connection between diet and cancer, consulted with holistic practitioners, searched the Web for information, and put her dogs on a raw diet. “Neither of my younger dogs has the hot spots, allergies, or chronic ear infections that plagued Buster and his companion, Daphne, who died of cancer a year after Buster did,” she reports.
Both Hayes and Swingle take their dogs to local veterinarians who practice conventional medicine but who understand and accept their clients’ use of alternative or holistic therapies. “My vet and I had a heart-to-heart talk after Buster died,” says Hayes. “I still take my dogs to her and I have confidence in her care. What changed is that I am much more involved in the care my boys receive, and she in turn has become more open to my suggestions.”
Lines of communication
Not everyone is comfortable asking questions, making suggestions, challenging the authority of veterinarians who are used to deciding how animals will be treated, or seeking a second opinion.
“These things get easier with practice,” says trainer Nancy Strouss, of Valley Cottage, New York. “I have always been direct with vets if I feel the need for a second opinion. If I already know who I want to go see, I just tell them that’s where I’m going. But often I will ask them who they would recommend for the type of problem I’m dealing with. None of my vets have ever had a problem with this,” she says.
“I simply wouldn’t deal with a practitioner whose ego gets in the way of his or her concern for the patient. Most of the vets I consult work together by forwarding records and sharing information. I always report back to my primary vets about second-opinion consultations because I want to know what they think and because they are often involved in continuing treatment.”
Veterinary chiropractor Sue Ann Lesser, DVM, who conducts monthly clinics in five Northeastern states, agrees that communication is the key to successful healthcare. “The best thing you can do,” she says, “is keep everyone informed. I’m always happy to work with other members of the team, whether they’re allopathic vets, holistic practitioners, acupuncturists, herbalists, or anything else. Many dog trainers have an excellent eye for lameness and sports medicine problems, and I value their input, too.”
Several of Dr. Lesser’s veterinary colleagues refer patients to her when they can’t solve a problem using conventional diagnostics and treatment. “Their test results and X-rays are valuable for ruling out whatever isn’t causing the problem,” she says. “Likewise, if I think a dog’s lameness might be caused by a fracture or bone chip, I’ll refer the dog back for an X-ray, or if I think it might be Lyme disease, I’ll send the dog back for testing. I strongly believe that the more information you can collect and share, the better it is for everyone, especially your dog.”
Building the team
It’s one thing to know that holistic practitioners exist and another to find the right ones for you and your dog. One place to start is the American Holistic Veterinary Medical Association, which can refer you to practitioners in your area. Local trainers, animal shelters, dog clubs, health food stores, breeders, friends, groomers, and the Internet are other sources of information and referrals.
“I strongly suggest that people call to set up an interview appointment with a potential holistic or homeopathic veterinarian before deciding whether to take a dog there for treatment,” says Christine Swingle. “Ask lots of questions about the vet’s education, training, length of practice, and medical philosophy. Good topics to raise are home-prepared diets, vaccinations, and chemical flea, tick, and heartworm products.”
Swingle also recommends that potential clients also discuss financial matters; because of the advanced and specialized education that holistic veterinarians have paid for, their rates are often more than those of conventional veterinarians. “I would ask, ‘How much does an office visit cost, and what are typical treatment costs?’ I have received quotes from veterinary homeopaths for $75 an hour up to $250 an hour and more. The first visit is typically longer than follow-up visits because it involves taking a medical history, and that adds to the expense,” says Swingle.
“Then I would ask exactly what they do and don’t do. In other words, do they perform surgeries such as spaying or neutering? Do they do other operations? If so, do they have a well-equipped surgical room including a gas anaesthetic machine? Do they have IV fluids, oxygen, and other life support if an animal needs it during or after surgery? The best way to avoid tragedies is to ask questions ahead of time – don’t assume anything.”
Then there’s the matter of finding or training a conveniently located, affordable, open-minded conventional veterinarian. “It can be a challenge,” says Swingle, “to find a local allopathic veterinarian who accepts your use of other disciplines. Many veterinary homeopaths, veterinary chiropractors, and other holistic practitioners do not draw blood, take X-rays, or perform other lab tests. It may be necessary to find a local vet to do these things in support of a medical philosophy he or she might not understand.”
Some conventional veterinarians are simply not comfortable with such an arrangement. “No practitioner has all the answers,” says Dr. Lesser, “just as no medical discipline has all the answers. If you’re dealing with a veterinarian who is particularly contrary, then maybe you need to look elsewhere for someone who’s less territorial and more of a team player. Don’t be shy; there are plenty of veterinarians. If you ask around, you’ll find one who will support your right to choose your dog’s treatment.”
Nora Hayes thinks of her local vet as a general practitioner or family doctor who takes care of emergencies and routine matters, while she uses holistic practitioners and medical specialists for anything that is not routine. “In that case,” she says, “I believe the right thing to do is trust your hunches, call in the cavalry, and don’t worry about hurting anyone’s feelings. It’s your dog’s life, and a good vet will understand.”
Holistic care in perspective
Holistic medicine is exciting because it often works spectacularly well, correcting multiple problems while improving overall health. But it’s important to keep everything in perspective, suggests Swingle.
“Holistic medicine is often represented in books and magazines as a cure for everything, and some of its practitioners deliver an optimistic prognosis no matter what. That isn’t always realistic,” she says.
“It’s a mistake to think of holistic medicine as a magic pill. Learning about nutrition, medicinal herbs, flower essences, massage, acupuncture, chiropractic, homeopathy, and other therapies used by holistic practitioners as well as the conditions that affect your dog and its breed will help you stay objective. There are many resources to learn from, plus chat lists on the Internet that can put you in touch with others who have knowledge and experience. There is no excuse for being in the dark about canine health. It is up to all of us to know just as much as we can so that we can participate in meaningful discussions with all of the members of our veterinary team.”
Nora Hayes agrees. “Too often, in my opinion,” says Hayes, “holistic or alternative practitioners defensively criticize the disregard that mainstream vets have for their disciplines, but they don’t acknowledge the important role conventional medicine can play when an animal’s life is at stake.
“Until the disciplines learn to talk together and practice cooperatively, I have to be my animal’s advocate. This means learning as much as I can and intervening in the treatment as necessary. This might mean deciding against a conventional treatment in favor of something holistic, but it might also mean deciding against a holistic therapy in favor of something conventional.”
What to fix first
Dr. Lesser practiced conventional veterinary medicine for 10 years before studying chiropractic, acupuncture, and homeopathy, which she considers the foundations of holistic medicine. “At a recent conference,” she says, “I heard someone explain how these therapies work together, and I think it’s a great description: Chiropractic is like the overall or coarse adjustment on a television; it fixes the structure. Acupuncture is the fine tuning; it improves focus by fixing the energy flow. Homeopathy, which is also a type of energy medicine but one that’s more involved with the patient’s constitution, is that last click that brings the picture in crystal-clear.
“In my opinion, that’s the ideal sequence to follow. First, fix subluxations with chiropractic adjustments so the body moves correctly. Once the basic structure is aligned, the body is better able to respond to acupuncture’s release of energy blockages, and when energy is flowing as it should, the body is better able to respond to correctly chosen homeopathic remedies. Of course, underlying everything is nutrition. Whenever I see that this sequence of treatments isn’t working, I know the diet needs fixing. As soon as the dog’s nutrition improves, everything else follows.”
Chiropractic, acupuncture, and homeopathy are medical specialties, but anyone can practice the basics of holistic medicine by improving a dog’s diet or learning how to use a few safe, effective medicinal herbs, nutritional supplements, flower essences, or basic massage techniques. “These simple steps,” says Dr. Lesser, “lay the groundwork for a lifetime of improved healthcare.”
Staying organized
Initial consultations vary according to discipline, and the questions asked by a veterinary homeopath are likely to be quite different from those asked by an allopathic veterinarian or a veterinary chiropractor. But all practitioners are likely to inquire about your dog’s health history.
“Sometimes understanding a dog’s condition involves detective work,” says Nancy Strouss. “Has the dog had this symptom before? If so, when? What was the treatment, and did it work? What else was happening at the time?”
These questions are easier to answer if you keep health records in a single location, such as a file folder or notebook. Strouss keeps track of all her dogs in a separate appointment book that she uses just for them. “I write down everything that goes on in their lives,” she explains, “including where I took them for a long walk and anything unusual that they ate or did. If one of the dogs starts limping on her left front leg after playing ball, I write it down. In addition, both of my vets keep excellent, detailed records; they measure and thoroughly describe all of my dogs’ lumps and bumps so they know right away if anything has changed.”
Coordinating your dog’s healthcare by assembling a team of holistic and conventional practitioners requires effort, but this investment of time, energy, and resources can pay a lifetime of health dividends.
The harness is routinely used for certain canine activities such as carting, mushing, tracking, and guiding the disabled. It is also an important accessory for the canine seat belt, since it’s not safe to restrain your dog by his collar in a moving vehicle.
Oddly, there isn’t much talk about the value of the harness as a basic positive training tool. With all the justifiable concern about the risk to a dog’s throat from pressure, or worse, jerks on a collar, it would seem that harnesses might find greater favor with positive trainers.
There are a number of advantages to using a harness. In addition to the total lack of pressure placed on the dog’s vulnerable trachea by a good harness, it is almost impossible for a dog to slip out of a well-designed, properly-fitted harness. Because it distributes pressure across the dog’s entire chest, a harness is also far less likely than a collar to contribute to spinal misalignments, particularly for dogs who have a tendency to lunge and hit the end of the leash with their full weight. Thus, they are the tools of choice for dogs who do suffer from spinal problems and/or damaged tracheas.
Finally, if you use a canine seat belt, getting into the car with Rover doesn’t require the additional step of donning an extra piece of equipment.
There are disadvantages to using a harness, however. Putting a harness on a dog can be a frustrating experience, especially if he doesn’t cooperate. It is certainly more comfortable for a dog to pull on the leash when he’s wearing a harness, since the pressure is distributed over a wider area, so you may need to spend additional time working on polite leash-walking behaviors. Plus, a large, strong dog in a harness might easily drag a small or not-strong handler right along behind him.
In addition, harnesses can rub and cause wear and tear on canine coats, even matting on long-haired dogs, and a poorly fitted harness may chafe the dog under his front legs, and even result in sores.
Finally, fitting can be a challenge. The best harnesses are generally not available from local pet supply stores, which means you may have to order them online or from a catalog. Measurements for harnesses are usually taken around the dog’s barrel, right behind the elbows, and ideally, an adjustable harness will fit dogs within a given measurement range so you can select the size most likely to fit your dog.
Like most training tools, harnesses may be appropriate for some dogs and not for others. If you are looking for a way to prevent Rover’s walk from being a pain in the neck for him, a harness just might be the ticket.
What we’re looking for
Ideally, a harness would be made of a soft but strong material, with sturdy fittings, designed so that it’s simple to figure out and put on the dog. Harnesses generally consist of several different straps (chest, barrel, back, and sternum), and these pieces should be stitched and/or held together with reliably strong metal or plastic hardware. All the various straps should be easily adjustable to allow for fitting to an almost infinite variety of canine shapes and sizes.
When properly adjusted, straps should lie flat on the dog’s body, and the hardware should be positioned in places where the pieces are least likely to rub – that is, not under the armpits – or prevent a dog from lying down or sitting comfortably.
Ideally, harnesses allow an option for attaching a leash either at the back (above the dog’s midsection) or behind the neck (for dogs who may need a little more control) without putting pressure on the dog’s throat.
We would expect to pay a reasonable price for a well-made harness, and having a choice of colors and designs would be icing on the cake.
There are literally dozens of harnesses on the market, and we couldn’t test them all. However, for comparison, we did try to purchase a wide variety of the ones that appeared to meet our criteria.
Top picks in harnesses
The Premier Surefit Harness, made by Premier Pet Products of Richmond, Virginia, offered all of our most desirable features, as well as one unique to this brand – the ability to unbuckle the harness from both sides. This means you can put it on your dog without having to lift up and thread through one of his front legs, and you can easily remove the harness from either side.
This harness is made of top quality materials and has five adjustment locations – on the sternum strap (underneath the dog’s chest) and on each side of the barrel and neck, and the adjustment buckles are easy to use. In addition, it offers two attachment points for a leash: behind the neck and farther down the back. Premier is known for producing high quality products, so it didn’t surprise us that we found very little to dislike about their harness. Our only complaint is that the minimum size is 12 inches, and some young toy breed pups might need smaller than that.
The Quick-Klip Adjustable Harness, made by Leather Brothers of Conway, Arkansas, is a solid, nicely-made, reasonably-priced no-frills harness, although more costly than our top-choice harness. The nonadjustable sternum strap is a mild drawback (the harness offers a total of three adjustment points), but it is a serviceable product.
White Pine Outfitters, of Iron River, Wisconsin, makes consistently high quality products and its Tracking Harness (not limited to use for tracking) is no exception. It was, however, the highest-priced harness we found on the market, so be prepared to pay a little more for its quality materials. We especially love the exceptionally soft web material that White Pines uses in its products.
One note – there seems to be an unwieldy excess length of material in the sternum strap – probably to allow for maximum adjustment. Once the harness is fitted properly to your dog, you will need to cut off the excess strap and heat-seal the end.
The harness adjusts in four places, and we found the adjustment hardware to be easy to move.
Middle-ranked
The Non-Restrictive Harness made by Lupine, Inc., of Conway, New Hampshire, is a workable harness, but one that offers less comfort, and is at the high end of the price range. It does come with a lifetime guarantee, even if chewed, so if your dog is a termite when it comes to canine accessories, this product might have greater value for you!
We found the nylon material to be strong but a little stiff, which makes it less comfy for the dog and more difficult to adjust; it required a little more effort to slide the somewhat inflexible material through the three adjustment points. It does, however, offer both front and rear attachments for a leash, and colorful pattern choices.
The Adjustable Nylon Harness made by Scott Pet Products of Rockville, Indiana, is our favorite of the lower-end harnesses – easy to adjust, made of reasonably solid materials, with lots of color choices. It’s just not comparable to the higher-quality products due to its slightly stiffer and thinner nylon material. The harness has two leash attachment points and three adjustment points; unfortunately, one of the buckles is located where the dog must lie on it.
The Adjustable Harness made by Coastal Pet Products, of Alliance, Ohio, is a more middle-of-the-road, medium quality harness with limited features. In our opinion, it’s serviceable, but not top-of-the-line. The harness has three adjustment points, and hardware works easily. There is one buckle that is positioned underneath the dog if he lies down.
Not our dog’s harness
We were amazed that we found this much variety in the different harnesses we tested – but this one almost had us in tears. The Non-Restrictive Dog Harness made by Hamilton Products of Ocala, Florida, is made of good quality materials, but extremely difficult to adjust. We wanted to throw it away!
Even the manufacturer’s fitting instructions were incomprehensible to us. This might be a good harness once you get it adjusted, as long as you never have to change it again! The harness has four adjustment points, but the hardware is exceptionally difficult to work.
We found the Step-In Harness, made by Leatherite Nylorite, of Carmel, Indiana, to be a poorly designed harness that fit our test dogs awkwardly no matter how we adjusted the straps. We also found the plastic adjustment buckles to be of a poorer quality than those on our higher-rated harnesses.
The harness has three adjustment points.
The leash attachment on this harness is unique, with two D-rings coming together over the plastic connecting snap in the middle of the dog’s back. This assures that no stress is put on the connecting hardware, which is a good thing. We like this feature, and the “step-in” concept of this product, but the final design still needs some work.
Other products
The following are more harnesses we tested; each earned only one paw on our product rating scale. Due to space limitations, we describe these only briefly, and don’t include them in the details chart at the end of the article.
Size Right! Adjustable Harness, made by Coastal Pet Products. (We purchased from J-B Wholesale, 800-526-0388; www.jbpet.com.)
Available in five colors and four sizes. $5 – $9. This figure-8 style harness is a different design than most of the adjustable harnesses. Rather than separate body, neck, and sternum straps, this product consists of a single nylon strap that loops in a figure-8 over the dog’s head and around the body, with connecting hardware that holds the loops together at the crossing on the dog’s back.
We’re not fond of this design, primarily because it exerts direct pressure on the trachea, negating the primary benefit of a harness, but also because it offers less control. We think a dedicated canine escape artist could pull back and slip out of a figure-8 harness much more easily than a standard adjustable harness.
Jeffers Pet Supply (800-533-3377; www.jefferspet.com) makes and sells the Jeffers Nylon Dog Harness, which comes in three colors and three sizes and sells for $3 – $6. This odd harness lacks a sternum strap – it has a sort of breastplate instead, and the only adjustment point is the metal buckle you undo to put it on and take it off.
The nylon material is sturdy but stiff, and the single adjustment buckle appears to be made of an inferior-grade metal. Plus, in any position, the buckle lies directly under the dog’s armpit or chest, potentially causing discomfort when the dog moves or lies down.
Finally, we ordered all the harnesses in a size that should be expected to fit an average Labrador in good condition. Every harness we ordered except this one easily fit on Paws, one of our regular photo models. We had to turn to our next-smallest model, Jessie, to show this harness. We’d suggest you order a size larger than you need.
The Jubilee Adjustable Harness, made by Quality Pet Products (we purchased from Direct Pet Supply, 800-360-4838; www.valleyvet.com) comes in nine colors and three sizes. $5.50 – $8. It has three adjustment points, and the hardware works easily. However, the D-ring that you would snap a leash or seat belt onto “floats” – it’s not stitched in place, but can twist and slide along the dog’s back. Also, one buckle is positioned under the dog, causing possible discomfort when he lies down, and the adjustment hardware may rest under the dog’s armpits.
I have never owned a dog with separation anxiety, thank goodness. The condition is hard on the dog who suffers from the condition and hard on the dog’s caretakers, too, including owners, vets, groomers, pet sitters, and dog walkers. Care must be taken to prevent triggering the dog’s panic at being left alone—in severe cases, even just long enough for the person caring for the dog to use the restroom!
