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Whole Dog Journal’s 2007 Dry Dog Food Review

By
Nancy Kerns
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0
Find the best dry dog food with our yearly dry dog food reviews.

Not all that long ago, selecting a dry food for your dog was pretty simple. What brand (singular) did your local pet supply store carry? What size bag did you want? And would you like some help out with that, ma’am?

Today, making a choice of dry dog foods can be immensely more complex that is, if you buy into the notion that not all “complete and balanced” diets are equal. There are millions of people, after all, who think that all dog foods are alike, and that you’d have to be an idiot to spend $30 or $40 or $50 on the same-sized sack of what you can buy for $7.99 at WalMart.

We’re here to testify that there is a difference between those $7.99 foods and the high-dollar products. And, while the task isn’t exactly brain surgery, choosing the best foods for your dog requires your attention and consideration of numerous factors.

First things first
Our task today is to dispense with a common misconception one so prevalent, that even many veterinarians swear it’s accurate. Many people believe that all dog foods that are labeled as “complete and balanced” are equally appropriate and healthful for your dog. It’s so not true.

“Complete and balanced” sounds good unambiguous in its assertion that a product so labeled contains everything, in just the right amounts and proportions, that a dog needs to live a long and healthy life. But, as Bob Dylan sings, “The truth was far from that.”

In reality, there is a huge amount of variation in the nutrient levels of pet foods that are labeled “complete and balanced.” I’d like to start taking the quotation marks off that expression, believe me, but I just can’t. The phrase must be taken with a handful of salt. Yet few ever stop to question how it’s possible for a food containing, say, 42 percent protein and 22 percent fat (like Innova Evo), to be just as “complete and balanced” as a food containing 21 percent protein and 4 percent fat (like Purina Kibbles and Chunks).

Maybe you’re okay with that; maybe you expect to see disparity in the amounts of macro-nutrients (protein and fat) in dog foods, especially since there is so much variety in their ingredients. It may surprise you to learn, though, that there is also a wide range of micro-nutrient (vitamin and mineral) levels represented in different “complete and balanced” dog foods.

And it may shock you to learn that a food can be labeled as “complete and balanced” even if it contains nutrient levels that are deficient, excessive, or imbalanced enough to cause illness in a dog fed a sole diet of that food for a number of years! I’ll explain how this is possible and you’ll see why I can’t take the quote marks off the phrase in question.

Which test did it pass?
Pet foods can earn the right to use the “complete and balanced” nutritional adequacy statement in one of three ways: by successfully completing a feeding trial, by meeting the “nutritional levels” requirements as set by the Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO), or through a so-called “family member.”

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No matter which method is used to prove its adequacy, the “complete and balanced” claim must specify the population of dogs the food is supposed to be able to sustain: adult dogs (a “maintenance” claim); puppies (“growth”); gestating or lactating females; or dogs in “all life stages” (all of the above).

In an AAFCO feeding trial, the candidate product is fed to a minimum number of dogs for a specified period. For the food to pass the trial, no more than 25 percent of the dogs can be removed from the study for “non-nutritional reasons or for poor food intake.” No dog in adult studies can lose more than 15 percent of its body weight during the trial. In the trials that include puppies, the pups must gain specified percentages of weight. The test dogs must also pass other fairly liberal tests of their “health.” (Note: We described feeding trials in much more detail in “On Trial,” April 2005.) If the food passes, it gets to carry a statement that looks like this:

The second way for a food to earn the “complete and balanced” appellation is to demonstrate (through laboratory analysis) that the food contains a concentration of nutrients that meets all the minimum levels, and does not exceed the maximum levels, of certain nutrients determined by AAFCO to be necessary to maintain the intended canine consumers. If all of the values for each required nutrient fall into the ranges approved by AAFCO, the food gets to carry a statement that looks something like this:

You could say that nepotism is the third method of achieving “complete and balanced” status. If a manufacturer can demonstrate that a new product bears a “nutritional similarity” to one of its products that has already passed an “all life stages” feeding trial, the new “family member” can be labeled with the same feeding trial claim.

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Problems with each test
Each method of qualifying for a nutritional adequacy claim has its faults, to wit:

– Foods that pass feeding trials are not required to contain minimum or maximum levels of any particular nutrients. Therefore, it’s possible for a food to sustain dogs long enough to “pass” the trial, but fail to demonstrate an ability (in real-world, long-term use) to promote optimum health. As one example, mineral excesses may take a year or more to cause noticeable health problems, but a food that claims to provide complete and balanced nutrition for adult dogs (a “maintenance” claim) may have passed only a 26-week test.

There is also an AAFCO feeding trial (at least 13 weeks long) for products intended for dogs during gestation and lactation and another that tests puppy diets (10 weeks). To earn the right to claim nutritional adequacy for dogs of “all life stages,” a food must undergo all three trials sequentially, for a total of 49 (or more) weeks. If it passes, its label can state, “Animal feeding tests using AAFCO procedures substantiate that (name of product) provides complete and balanced nutrition for all life stages.”

Many experts regard the “all life stages” feeding trial as the best proof we have of a food’s ability to perform. But again: Even a year-long feeding trial may fail to reveal faults that can cause serious health problems if fed as a sole diet for a long period.

– Foods that meet the “AAFCO nutritional profiles” qualification can lack palatability and/or digestibility. If dogs don’t like the smell or taste of the food, they won’t eat enough of it to gain its nutritional benefits. Also, the nutrients contained in a product may not be present in a form that the dog can digest. The AAFCO nutrient profiles themselves contain a problem: Not many lay people are aware that the profiles allow for a wide range of values. Far from being some sort of industry “standard,” or offering suggestions for optimum nutrition, they actually offer only broad guidance.

The profiles outline minimum values for each nutrient currently proven to be required for dogs. Also included are maximum values for eight minerals and three vitamins, out of concern for potential toxicosis if excessive levels of those nutrients are fed.

The spread between the allowed minimum and maximum values reveals just how far the industry is from consensus about “ideal” nutrient levels or, perhaps, how little research has been conducted in this area.

This latter explanation is actually offered by AAFCO itself, to explain why more maximum nutrient levels are not defined: “The absence of a maximum should not be interpreted to mean that those nutrients are safe at any level. Rather, it reflects the lack of information on nutrient toxicity in dogs and cats. Establishing a maximum level implies safety below that level and to set a maximum arbitrarily might prove worse than no maximum at all.”

One of the most striking gaps occurs in the levels allowed for iron. The minimum value is 80 mg per kg; the maximum is 3,000 mg/kg. One can well imagine that a food containing something near the minimum will perform very differently from one containing an amount closer to the maximum allowable level.

These profiles are better than nothing; they get a pet food maker into the ballpark. But in our opinion, it’s farcical to qualify all the products with such a wide range of nutrient levels as “complete and balanced” especially with the common mistaken inference that all the products carrying that statement are somehow equal.

– Foods that use the “family member” route to qualification are not required to be distinguished from the family member that actually passed the “all life stages” feeding trial. This seems like the sneakiest path to a nutritional adequacy claim. There is no way for a consumer to learn which food in a manufacturer’s “family” was the “lead” product the one that actually passed the feeding trial and which ones are hanging on its coattails. Imagine: a food that is identified as having met the most stringent test, without having been tested at all.

The concern here is that a food might appear “nutritionally similar” enough to its lead product to garner access to the approved “family,” while lacking some vital characteristic that was key to its predecessor’s success.

Other claims you might see
There are a few other claims seen on pet food labels. Here is an interesting one:

If the label states that the food is “intended for intermittent or supplemental feeding only,” it can mean the maker really intends for the food to supplement other products, that it really isn’t complete or balanced. But the statement is also used sometimes when the food has some nutritional values that are out of the range of the AAFCO profiles, and it hasn’t yet passed a feeding trial. Here is another:

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Notice anything missing? It’s lacking the AAFCO reference! Without referencing either the AAFCO nutritional values or AAFCO feeding trials, it has to be lumped into the category of products that carry no statement about their completeness. In these cases, you are totally on your own.

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Final consideration

One last thing: Feeding trials (especially the three sequential trials needed to garner an “all life stages” claim) are wildly expensive. The pet food industry giants have the resources to conduct these trials routinely, and as a result, most of their foods carry the “feeding trials” claim. Again, this statement carries the most weight with many veterinary nutritionists (even though the food may not meet all the AAFCO “nutritional levels” values). Smaller, independent companies the ones that make the foods we tend to like often conduct their own, informal feeding tests to work out palatability and digestibility issues, but can’t easily afford to conduct AAFCO-protocol trials. That’s why many products on our “top foods” list carry the “nutritional levels” claim.

Compare for yourself!
We hope we’ve inspired you to go take a gander at that last bag of dog food you bought or, more importantly, to examine the labels of several foods before you buy the next bag. We’ve been busy examining labels ourselves. On the following pages, we’ve listed dry dog foods that meet our selection criteria. Our methodology is described in “Whole Dog Journal’s Dry Dog Food Selection Criteria,” right. Regarding our list of foods, please also consider the following:

– the foods on our list are not the only good foods! The list is offered as a starting place and for its value as a comparison to products you may find in your area.

As an addendum to this point, if the variety we describe doesn’t suit your needs, check its maker’s website or call their toll-free phone number to get information about the other varieties in the same line.

– We have presented the foods on our list alphabetically. We do not “rank order” foods. We don’t attempt to identify which ones are “best,” because what’s “best” for every dog is different.

– The proof is in the pudding. If your dog does not thrive on the food, with a glossy coat, itch-free skin, bright eyes, clear ears, and a happy, alert demeanor, it doesn’t matter whether we like it or not.

And if your dog’s health or attitude sours under the influence of a certain food, stop feeding it, note the ingredients, and find another food that contains different ingredients. Keep your notes! Sometimes it takes several years of detective work to find products that really suit your dog.

– Remember that quality comes with a price. These foods may be expensive and difficult to find. Contact the maker and ask about purchasing options. If the customer service representatives are less than helpful, move on to another product. As you’ll see from our list on the following pages, there are plenty from which to choose.

Tips on House Training Your Dog

By
Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA
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[Updated July 6, 2018]

HOUSE TRAINING TIPS: OVERVIEW

1. Implement a consistent and effective housetraining program early in your dog’s life – don’t wait for new carpeting!

2. Teach your dog to eliminate on cue to make potty trips hassle-free and life easier.

3. Training is not always the answer. Consider management solutions if you’re dealing with extra-challenging bathroom behaviors with your dog.

Teaching your dog to eliminate on cue is such a valuable “trick” once your dog knows how, you will wonder how you ever coped without it. No more standing around shivering at night, waiting for “that magic moment.” No more walking around the block endlessly in frustration, when you have to get to work. No more “finding” poop on the bottom of your shoe in a part of the yard where you really didn’t expect to find it! And, we hope, no more “accidents” in the house.

House Training Dogs is Really Easy

Sound too good to be true? As long as you consistently practice with your dog, it’s actually relatively simple to put her elimination on cue, since the behavior of a dog is reasonably easy to predict.

You know your dog is going to pee at certain times of the day, such as when you take her outside first thing in the morning; you just have to be awake enough to remember to give the cue an instant before the stream starts. You’ll also need treats in your pocket, a reward marker at the ready (such as a clicker in your hand, or a readiness to use a verbal marker, such as the word “Yes!”), and your dog on a leash.

Potty Training Dogs

At regular intervals throughout the day, take your dog to her potty spot and wait. When you see the unmistakable signs that she’s about to pee, give your potty cue. When she’s done, click! (or use your verbal marker) and give her a treat. Be careful not to use your marker until she’s finished! If you click! in midstream, she may well stop to get the treat, and probably won’t finish, since her bladder no longer feels full. Then you’ll take her back inside with a half-full bladder and she’ll be likely to have an accident prior to her next scheduled potty break. Oops!

After you’ve marked and rewarded her efforts, spend a few minutes playing with her outside. Some dogs learn that outside fun is over as soon as they’re empty, and “hold it” as long as they can to prolong playtime. Potty first, then play, so your dog is willing to eliminate quickly in anticipation of the play reward as well as the treat. If your dog doesn’t produce any results on her bathroom trip, be sure to supervise her closely or even crate her until her next trip outdoors.

Owners often agonize over what word to use as a bathroom cue. It doesn’t matter to the dog what cue you use. As long as you consistently associate the word with the action, she’ll figure it out. Some suggestions include go pee, (this is what I use, both for urination and defecation), go potty, go shi-shi (apparently a Hawaiian and Japanese slang word for urinating), hurry up, or break time.

If you consistently cue your dog to “go” every time you take her out, in time you’ll be able to jump-start her potty performance by giving the cue no matter where you are.

Behavioral Management is the Key to House Training

Whether you’re facing the challenge of housetraining a new puppy or retraining an adult dog with inappropriate bathroom behaviors, the approach is the same: manage the behavior to prevent mistakes from happening while you teach appropriate toilet habits.

The differences are that while a puppy may not yet have the physical ability to control his need to eliminate for long periods, at least he probably hasn’t learned to soil indoors and will have a very strong instinct to keep his den clean. The unfortunate exceptions are puppies raised in very dirty conditions (like many of the puppies raised in puppy mills and sold through pet stores), and those who have been forced to soil their crates repeatedly through improper confinement.

A healthy adult dog is perfectly capable of controlling his elimination urges, so in some cases an adult dog can be housetrained very quickly, especially if she hasn’t spent much time indoors. If, however, she has a longstanding habit of urinating and/or defecating indoors, reliable housetraining can be a frustrating goal to achieve. In these cases we sometimes must settle for managing the dog behavior in order to prevent house soiling.

We use the “umbilical approach” to housetraining puppies and adult dogs. This means the dog is always either in a crate or pen, on a leash attached to you (or restrained nearby), under the direct supervision of an adult or responsible teen, or outdoors. Establish a daytime routine go out with the dog every one to two hours. If you want him to use a particular bathroom area of the yard, always take him on leash to this same spot when you go out with him. Don’t just send him out to “do his business” on his own. You won’t know if he did anything or not, and you won’t be able to reward him for doing the right thing.

Go with him outside. When he urinates or defecates, click! a clicker (or use a verbal marker, such as the word “Yes!”) and feed him a treat. Then play with him for a few minutes before bringing him indoors, as a reward for going. If he doesn’t go, bring him back in, put him in his crate, and try again in a half-hour or so. When you know he’s “empty,” you can give him some relative but still supervised freedom for a half-hour or so.

If he has a mistake indoors, don’t punish him after the fact. It’s your mistake, not his. He won’t even know what he’s being punished for. Quietly clean it up using an enzyme-based cleaner like Nature’s Miracle to be sure you get all the odor, and vow not to give him so much freedom.

If you catch him in the act, calmly interrupt him and take him outside to his bathroom spot. Again, don’t punish him. If you do, you’ll only teach him that it isn’t safe to toilet in front of you, and he’ll learn to run to the back bedroom to do it.

Keep a daily log for one week, writing down when (and what) he goes. Once you have this documentation of his routine, you can start reducing the number of times you take him out, based on his elimination schedule. As he becomes more trustworthy, you can start to give him more freedom. If he backslides it’s your fault, for giving too much freedom too soon. Back up to a more restricted routine, and proceed more slowly.

At night he should be crated, in or near your bedroom. If he wakes up in the middle of the night and cries, he probably has to go out. You must wake up and take him out, click! and reward when he goes, then bring him back and immediately return him to his crate. You don’t want to teach him that crying at night earns a play session!

Dogs do not house soil out of malice or spite; they just don’t think that way. If your dog urinates or defecates every time you leave him alone in the house, chances are it’s related to stress, perhaps separation anxiety, not malice. Punishing him will only make him more stressed, and make the problem worse.

If you’re having serious housetraining problems, you may need the services of a trainer or behavior consultant. Most dogs, thank goodness, want to keep their dens clean and will happily learn to use appropriate bathroom spots if given the chance. It’s just one of the many things we love about them.

The Elimination Zone

It’s very helpful to teach your dog to eliminate whenever and wherever you need him to, especially if you live in a city environment, or in apartment or condominium without a yard. And there are times when you are with your dog when you absolutely do not want him to eliminate, so asking him to empty his bowels and bladder before you get there is a useful exercise.

But even those of us with yards or even vast acreage can benefit from teaching our dogs to eliminate on cue — and to dedicate a certain area in the yard for that task. It’s nice to know, no matter where you walk on your property, you are not likely to step in a dog-doo landmine when you aren’t expecting it! People with extensive landscaping or perfect lawns will also appreciate the benefits, such as the lack of unsightly brown spots in the green grass! Dedicating one part of your yard for your dog’s elimination also makes it a breeze to clean.

It’s a good idea to regularly practice both tasks: asking your dog to eliminate in a new location, and having him use a dedicated potty area at home. Take him straight to the desired spot at times when you know he has to go, use your cue, and reward/reinforce the behavior with treats or a few minutes of playing with his favorite toy.

An Example of Adult-Dog House Training

Heather is a 12-year-old West Highland White Terrier who came to see me last week because, according to her owners, she had recently started urinating indoors. The Hadleys had just moved to a brand-new house with wall-to-wall carpeting, and Heather was destroying the rugs.

I was concerned. While the break in Heather’s housetraining could certainly be due to the stress of the move and any change in routine that might have occurred along with it, whenever there’s a behavior change in an a mature adult dog, especially a senior canine, there’s always a strong possibility that it could be a medical problem, perhaps a serious one.

It turned out my fears for Heather’s health were groundless. As I explored the Westie’s history with her two devoted humans, we came to the conclusion that the little dog had never been fully housetrained. Their previous home had hardwood floors and throw rugs that were easily tossed into the washing machine whenever Heather had an occasional accident, so the lapses in training were never of huge concern to the Hadleys.

Potty Training Dogs

Looking back even further, it turned out that Heather had come from a puppy mill environment, forced to live in her own urine and feces, and even as a pup was willing to soil her crate and lie in it. And while Tim insisted that Heather could “hold it” for several hours when shut in the bathroom when they left her alone, Sue confessed to having cleaned up puddles without telling Tim from time to time over the years.

The good news was that Heather was healthy. The bad news was this was not a new behavior we were dealing with – it was a well-established, 12-year-old behavior. New behaviors are almost universally easier to fix than ones the dog has practiced for a long time.

While the prognosis for completely modifying a behavior that was more than a decade old wasn’t bright, there were a number of things I could offer the Hadleys that would help preserve their new carpeting. My suggestions included:

– Putting Heather’s urination behavior on cue.

– Starting over with their Westie as if they were housetraining a brand-new puppy: total supervision, with gradually increasing periods of house freedom as Heather came to understand that peeing indoors was no longer acceptable behavior.

– Teaching Heather to give them a signal when she had to go out.

– Training her to use an indoor litter-box.

– Using doggie diapers.

Heather’s owners wanted to teach her to bark to let them know she had to go out. On rare occasion, they said, she would bark when she had to defecate and she never defecated in the house. But other than that, she never barked, even when they tried to elicit barking behavior. I suggested that it would be easier to teach her a different signal ringing a portable electronic doorbell button that they could also take with them when they traveled.

Heather hadn’t received any formal training, and didn’t know how to target, so we started teaching her. Since Heather also wasn’t inclined to paw at things, we elected to use nose targeting instead of foot targeting (see “Utilize Target Training for Better Leash Walking“). In less than 10 minutes she was touching her nose to the doorbell button in order to get a click! and treat. She wasn’t ringing it yet that would be one of Tim and Sue’s homework assignments. The ease with which she caught on to the concept of “touch” bodes well for success with her doorbell-ringing task.

When Heather can ring the doorbell easily, the Hadleys will ask her to ring it every time they’re ready to take her out to potty. In time, she should start offering to ring it without being asked, to tell them she needs to go out.

The Hadleys also liked the idea of providing an indoor litter box for Heather (see “Indoor and Patio Litterboxes for Home-Alone Dogs“). We agreed that Heather would probably never be a super hold-it dog – a realistic goal might be three to four hours maximum, not the 8 to 10 hours that some dogs are capable of when necessary. A litter box would give her a “legal” place to go indoors when she had to be left alone for longer than she could hold it.

Sue had tried a litter box once but Heather ate the litter pellets, so she gave up. I suggested some artificial turf as a less palatable alternative, and explained they could train their dog to use it the same way they taught her to use a potty spot outdoors. They could start with the plastic box, lined with the artificial grass and positioned in Heather’s outdoor bathroom spot, and coax her to jump in it to eliminate. When she would use it outdoors, they could move it indoors. When the box got soiled, the turf and plastic container would be easy to clean.

Finally, we discussed the possibility of doggie diapers as a last resort to save the new carpeting. Available from most pet supply catalogs and websites, these slip over a female dog’s hindquarters, or a belly band wraps around a male dog’s abdomen. Diapers are a management measure, although because many dogs don’t want to soil themselves, they can also help with training.

My husband and I have used a diaper on our Scottie, who started urine-marking indoors when we moved to a house that, previously, had been occupied by a dog who wasn’t well housetrained. After more than a year of scrupulous management, we are now giving Dubhy supervised freedom without the band, and he’s doing well.

The Hadleys were pretty sure that Heather would chew off the diapers, but agreed to give them a try if the other measures weren’t sufficient to prevent indoor accidents.

I asked my clients to report back to me two weeks after their first session, to see how the program is working. I haven’t received Heather’s first progress report yet, and I’m eager to hear of the Hadley’s success. Both Tim and Sue appeared committed to all aspects of the program and capable of carrying them out. Looking into my crystal ball, I predict a bright, stain-free future for Heather and the Hadley’s new carpeting.

Yeast Infections in Dogs

By
CJ Puotinen
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Thirty years ago, even though the systemic yeast infection called candidiasis had already become an epidemic, practically no one knew anything about it. Even now conventional medicine tends to ignore the problem, but word has spread among health-conscious consumers. If you haven’t had a candida yeast infection yourself, you know dozens of people who have and dozens of dogs as well. Candidiasis is an underlying cause of many skin and coat problems, allergies, fungal infections, dog ear infections, digestive problems, food sensitivities, and other symptoms in our canine companions.

Candida albicans, which causes candidiasis, is a single-celled organism classified as both a yeast and a fungus. It occurs naturally in the digestive and genital tracts, and in healthy bodies it is kept in check by beneficial bacteria. In humans whose beneficial bacteria have been damaged or destroyed, the organism causes or contributes to thrush (a fungus infection of the throat and mouth), diaper rash, athlete’s foot, jock itch, vaginal yeast infections, digestive problems, seasonal allergies, ringworm, nail fungus, and environmental sensitivities. It also disrupts the immune system’s response to agents of infection.

In dogs and humans, patients at highest risk are those who have taken antibiotics, which destroy the beneficial bacteria that normally keep Candida albicans from taking over. But the body’s ecology can be disrupted by environmental conditions, diet, stress, chemotherapy drugs, steroids, and other medications as well.

How to Keep Your Dog’s Candida in Check

Like all yeasts, candida thrives on sugars, including those from grains, starches, and other carbohydrates. Beneficial bacteria (such as Lactobacillus acidophilus) metabolize sugars, which keeps candida in check by disrupting its food supply. A shortage of beneficial bacteria results in a sugar-rich environment and an abundance of Candida albicans.

Canine Ear Infection

Once a candida overgrowth occurs, it becomes a vicious cycle. Candida cells overwhelm whatever beneficial bacteria survive in the digestive tract or are introduced as supplements, and a diet high in carbohydrates keeps the candida population strong and in control.

In 1983, William G. Crook, MD, published The Yeast Connection, the first of many books linking candidiasis, chronic health problems, and a high-carbohydrate diet. Since then, hundreds of anti-candida diets, drugs, herbal products, and nutritional supplements have become weapons in the war against Candida albicans.

Canine nutritional consultant Linda Arndt of Albany, Indiana, has studied candida for years, and her checklist of conditions linked to the organism’s overgrowth is lengthy.

Candida is a formidable enemy, she explains, because its cells manufacture toxic chemicals that kill beneficial bacteria and harm the body. Candida’s waste products include toxic alcohols, acetone, and the nerve poison hydrogen sulfide, all of which slow the brain, contribute to fatigue, and disrupt the immune system.

Candida symptoms are often misdiagnosed as allergies, says Arndt, manifesting as rashes or skin outbreaks on the feet, face, underarm, underbelly, or genital areas. Recurring hot spots or infections of the ears, eyes, bladder, or urinary tract can be caused by candida overgrowth.

“These conditions can be accompanied by a secondary infection, which is what gets treated,” she says, “but the underlying cause is rarely addressed by conventional medicine. In addition to fatigue, lethargy, immobility, joint pain, and discomfort, all of which can be caused by yeast toxins, the infected patient may experience severe itching, which leads to endless biting, chewing, and hair loss. The dog’s skin can turn black, become dry and flaky, or develop a greasy grit on the surface, and wherever candida takes over, a bad yeasty smell can develop.”

Treatment with antibiotics, steroids, and other conventional drugs may bring temporary relief, but the patient soon returns with another flare-up, and symptoms progress until the veterinarian suggests allergy testing.

“The results tell you the dog is allergic to everything from dust mites to tuna and lima beans,” says Arndt. “But that’s not where the problem lies. Many so-called allergy cases are nothing more than misdiagnosed systemic yeast infections from candida overgrowth.”

According to holistic physician Bruce Fife, ND, the candida organism is especially insidious because it changes form. “If left unchallenged,” he says, “candida converts from a single-celled form into a multi-celled or mycellial fungal form with hairy, root-like projections called rhizoids. These rhizoids penetrate the intestinal wall, which affects the intestines’ ability to absorb vitamins, minerals, amino acids, and fatty acids, leading to nutritional deficiencies and leaky gut syndrome.”

Leaky gut syndrome allows bacteria, toxins, and undigested food to pass through the intestinal wall into the bloodstream, where they cause chronic low-grade infections, inflammation, and allergic responses. “The immune system identifies undigested food proteins as foreign invaders,” says Dr. Fife, “and its attack results in allergy symptoms. Your dog’s food allergies, seasonal allergies, and environmental allergies can all be caused by an imbalance in the microbial environment of his digestive tract. It’s no exaggeration to say that chronic health problems originate in the intestines.”

Even without an overgrowth of Candida albicans, a disruption of the body’s supply of beneficial bacteria poses problems. As described in “Probiotics for Dogs“, beneficial bacteria form a first line of defense against pathogens; help prevent antibiotic-associated diarrhea, traveler’s diarrhea, and leaky gut syndrome; improve lactose tolerance; produce vitamins and enzymes; decrease toxins and mutagenic reactions; improve carbohydrate and protein usage; strengthen innate immunity; create a protective barrier effect in the intestinal tract; and help reduce food sensitivities and skin disorders.

It’s definitely worth helping your dog become a poor host for Candida albicans and, instead, become a nurturing host for beneficial bacteria.

Natural Remedies for Candidiasis in Dogs

In conventional medicine, antifungal medications clear up chronic yeast infections, fungal infections, and related symptoms. But many antifungal drugs have potentially serious side effects and they produce only temporary results. As soon as the prescription ends, surviving candida cells multiply, recolonize, and trigger a return of symptoms.

Alternative therapies, such as medicinal herbs and diet, have fewer side effects and help correct the problem’s underlying causes. It’s important, says Arndt, to work with a holistic veterinarian and avoid vaccinations, steroid drugs, and other conventional treatments that can disrupt the immune system. Because many (if not most) cases of canine candidiasis coincide with hypothyroidism, the patient’s thyroid levels should be checked.

“Probiotics are popular treatments for candida infections, but proper timing is important,” she says. “Feeding large amounts of acidophilus and other probiotics doesn’t help a dog whose system is overwhelmed by candida. In fact, this kind of supplementation can make things worse. The first step in effectively treating candida is reducing its population. Two weeks after that, beneficial bacteria can be effectively added to the system.”

For human patients, menu plans such as the Atkins diet, which is high in protein and fat and very low in carbohydrates, are recommended because they starve yeast cells without harming beneficial bacteria.

Wild wolves are unlikely to suffer from candida overgrowths because, as Dr David Mech explained in “What Wolves Eat“, wolves in the wild consume little or no sugars, grains, starches, fruits, or other carbohydrates and very little vegetable matter. Their diet consists almost entirely of the meat, organs, blood, skin, and bones of prey animals.

Switching a candida-infected dog from grain-based kibble to a grain-free, starch-free, low-carbohydrate diet is an easy way to reduce a dog’s population of Candida albicans.

Coconut Oil for Treating Yeast Infections

One effective anti-candida ingredient that can be added to a dog’s food, whether commercial or home-prepared, is coconut oil. According to Dr. Fife, author of Coconut Cures and a leading expert on coconut’s health benefits, the fatty acids in coconut oil kill candida and other damaging organisms without harming friendly bacteria. “Coconut oil’s fatty acids are absorbed into the cells, which use them as fuel to power the metabolism,” he says. “When applied topically on the skin, coconut oil promotes the healing of damaged tissue. In the same way, it speeds the healing of perforations in the intestinal wall. Coconut oil can help any dog reestablish and maintain a healthy intestinal environment.”

Caprylic acid, a nutritional supplement derived from coconut oil, kills candida cells. “Caprylic acid is sold specifically for this condition,” says Dr. Fife, “but it’s less expensive and just as effective to use the coconut oil it’s derived from. That way you ingest not only caprylic acid but lauric acid, which has also been shown to kill candida cells, along with other essential fatty acids that improve intestinal health.”

The recommended dose is at least 1 teaspoon coconut oil per 10 pounds of body weight, or 1 tablespoon per 30 pounds. Dogs with candidiasis may need more, especially in the early stages of treatment. For best results, feed in divided doses, provide extra fluids and drinking water to help flush toxins from the body, and start with small amounts and build up gradually so the body has time to adjust. The side effects of too much coconut oil too soon can include greasy stools or diarrhea, fatigue, mental exhaustion, and body aches.

Yeast Die-Offs in the Canine Body

Flu-like symptoms such as exhaustion, body aches, diarrhea, and nausea are caused by die-off, also known as the Herxheimer reaction. When large numbers of viruses, bacteria, parasites, yeasts, or fungi die, their physical remains and the toxins they produce overwhelm the body, and it takes days, weeks, and in some cases, months for the organs of elimination to catch up, during which symptoms such as itching or skin breakouts may increase.

Systemic enzyme supplements such as Wobenzym (discussed in “Accelerated Wound Healing,” August 2006) are especially helpful during detoxification. Taken between meals, systemic enzymes circulate in the blood, breaking down inflammation and digesting dead candida cells. Wobenzym contains pancreatin, bromelain, and other digestive enzymes in enteric-coated tablets that survive stomach acid and break apart in the small intestine.

Other enzyme products like Prozyme, which contains amylase, lipase, cellulase, and protease, are taken with meals to improve the assimilation of nutrients and to compensate for the lack of live enzymes in processed food. Double the recommended dose for dogs age eight or older or for dogs switching from a high-carb food.

Seacure (“Securing Seacure,” April 2003) supports anti-candida programs by providing amino acids that are essential to the liver during the second phase of detoxification. Double the recommended dose of Seacure pet powder or chewable pet tabs for the first two weeks of treatment, then follow label directions.

Herbs and Supplements Used for Yeast Infections

Several medicinal plants are used in candida therapy. They are recommended for use by themselves, in combination, or sequentially (one after another), so that highly adaptable candida cells don’t have time to mutate. Any anti-candida supplement designed for humans can be adjusted for canine use according to the dog’s weight. Divide the human label dose by 2 for dogs weighing 50-70 pounds; divide label dose by 4 for dogs weighing 25-35 pounds.

The following and similar supplements are an essential first step in a candida control program.

Black walnut hulls (Juglans nigra), especially those harvested in early fall when the hulls are still green, repel parasites, improve skin conditions, and fight fungal and bacterial infections. Look for “green” black walnut hull extracts and tinctures.

Garlic (Allium sativum) strengthens immunity by aiding white blood cells, and it has shown significant antifungal activity against Candida albicans in animal and test tube studies. But in large amounts, garlic may cause hemolytic or Heinz factor anemia in dogs. Daily doses of up to 1 small garlic clove per 20 pounds of body weight are considered safe, as are garlic extracts given according to label directions adjusted for the dog’s size. For best results, alternate garlic with other antifungal herbs. Although onions are a highly regarded prebiotic (a food that feeds beneficial bacteria), onions are not recommended for dogs in any quantity because of their high hemolytic anemia risk.

Horopito (Pseudowintera colorata), also known as the New Zealand pepper tree, is a traditional Maori treatment for fungal infections. In 1982, New Zealand researchers tested horopito extracts against Candida albicans with excellent results. The New Zealand product Kolorex is now an international best seller. Yeast and mold expert Ingrid Naiman shares Kolorex with her dog.

Olive leaf (Olea europaea) is a popular supplement for candidiasis. Its active ingredient, oleuropein, has antiviral, antifungal, antibacterial, and antioxidant effects in addition to lowering blood sugar and improving blood circulation.

Pau d’arco (Tabebuia impetiginosa, also known as lapacho or taheebo) is an Amazon rainforest tree with astringent, anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, and antifungal properties. Pau d’arco teas and extracts help treat systemic, chronic, or recurrent candidiasis, leaky gut syndrome, and related disorders.

Quebracho (Aspidosperma quebracho-blaco) is a tannin-rich South American tree. Its bark is used in the leading anti-candida product, Tanalbit. Its manufacturer claims quebracho does not contribute to Herxheimer (die-off) reactions. Some veterinarians have used Tanalbit for canine candidiasis for years with excellent results.

As explained in Whole Dog Journal‘s aromatherapy series (“Smell This, You’ll Feel Better,” December 2004; “Essential Information,” January 2005; and “Canines in a Mist,” April 2005), therapeutic-quality essential oils and hydrosols can be diluted for safe, effective canine use.

The essential oil of wild oregano (Origanum vulgare) has become a popular treatment for candidiasis at human doses of 1 drop once or twice per day, building up to a dose of 1 drop 4 times per day, which is considered safe for long-term use.

Dogs dislike the taste and smell of oregano oil. For canine treatment, dilute full-strength oregano oil with olive oil, then place a drop of the diluted oil in an empty 2-part gelatin capsule, which can be hidden in food. For dogs weighing 50-70 pounds, dilute ½ teaspoon oregano essential oil with ½ teaspoon olive oil; for dogs weighing 25-35 pounds, use 1 teaspoon olive oil; and for smaller dogs, use 1½ to 2 teaspoons olive oil. Start with 1 drop of the diluted oil per day and gradually build up to 1 drop 4 times per day.

Tea tree hydrosol, the water produced during steam distillation of tea tree essential oil, is a safe, effective topical treatment for ear infections, hot spots, skin breakouts, and other candida symptoms.

With antifungal, antibacterial, antiyeast, and antiviral properties, coconut oil is an excellent carrier in which to dilute essential oils. It can also be applied by itself to ringworm and other fungal breakouts. Store in a small dropper bottle for convenient application. In cold weather, melt the coconut oil by placing the bottle in hot water.

Probiotics for Treating Yeast Infections

After two weeks of improved diet and treatment with antifungal herbs and supplements, your dog’s system should be ready to support beneficial bacteria.

A few native bacteria survive even lengthy antibiotic treatment, so the odds are that your dog has a small population of beneficial bacteria that could recolonize her system if properly fed with “prebiotics.”

The best prebiotics for the dog’s beneficial bacteria are lactofermented vegetables (see “It’s All in How You Make It,” March 2001) and supplements such as inulin, whey, and fructo-oligosaccharides (FOS). Start with small amounts and gradually increase, adjusting label directions for your dog’s weight. Reduce the dose if flatulence or digestive discomfort develops. Do not feed whey to dogs with an intolerance to foods containing lactose.

Acidophilus is a familiar probiotic, but there are dozens to choose from. Look for live-culture products in health food or pet supply stores, and give frequent doses to help flood the system with beneficial bacteria. Help the bacteria reproduce by combining them with prebiotics, a low-carbohydrate diet, and enzymes.

Yeast Treatment Kits

To help dogs overcome candiasis, Linda Arndt worked with BioPet, Inc., to design a kit containing cleansing and detoxifying products. The goal was to provide a complete kit, with clear instructions that take the mystery out of candida and detoxification. The Nzymes Healthy Skin kits are what resulted.

The kit contains antifungal treats or granules, oxidizing drops that can be taken internally or applied topically, digestive enzymes, probiotics, and a combination of black walnut and olive leaf extracts for internal and topical use.

“We designed the kit for convenience, because it’s hard to know what to do or where to get products that work,” she says. “Candida infections are difficult to treat. They take time to develop, and it takes time as long as a year or more to get them to go away. But by improving the diet, removing candida, detoxifying the body, and flooding the system with beneficial bacteria, anyone can help candida-infected dogs get and stay well.”

CANDIDIASIS IN DOGS: OVERVIEW

1. Avoid feeding your dog grain-based or high-carb pet foods.

2. Starve or destroy candida and detoxify the body with diet and supplements.

3. Resist giving your dog antibiotics for minor infections or anytime they are not absolutely necessary.

4. Re-establish your dog’s gut microbiome with probiotic supplements.

5. Persevere. Candida infections are difficult to eliminate.

The Many Benefits of Calendula for Your Dog

By
Gregory L. Tilford
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Calendula is highly effective when used in a cool water rinse for any sort of skin irritation. Dogs with pink, sensitive skin will especially appreciate calendula's ability to quickly soothe flea bites, sunburn, or vexing "hot spots."

[Updated September 28, 2017]

CALENDULA FOR DOGS: OVERVIEW

  • Grow your own, or buy dried calendula flowers from a health food store that carries herbs. Or use a reputable mail-order herb store, such as Frontier Co-Op or Jean’s Greens.
  • Make an infusion of calendula flowers and use it liberally to rinse your dog’s skin and coat to soothe and help heal any type of skin irritation or infection.
  • Use a calendula tincture as part of a multifaceted program to treat your dog’s chronic yeast (candida) infection.

The world of herbal medicine offers hundreds of choices to consider when treating your dog. Some are rather obscure; almost inaccessible to anyone but those who are connected to an exclusive, exotic source. Yet others are within such easy reach that they are often overlooked, considered mundane and useless simply by their abundance. After all, who would think first of the dandelions growing along the back fence when looking for an herbal approach to a rare and inoperable cancer?

Any self-respecting herbalist will admit that herbal panaceas do not exist. No single herb can cure all of your dog’s ills. None serve as silver bullets against canine disease. But there are some that are so generally useful that it is no wonder why they were once touted as “cure all” medicines.

Calendula

Take Calendula officinalis, the common pot marigold that adorns herb and flower gardens in virtually every corner of the globe. Although many of its fans know of the skin healing attributes of calendula salves, lotions, and shampoos, its range reaches far deeper than the skin.

For many centuries calendula has been used to treat everything from skin lesions to tuberculosis and even syphilis. But its real claim to fame and effectiveness comes from its well documented ability to speed the healing of skin and most other body tissues, inside and out.

External Uses of Calendula for Dogs

Calendula is among the first herbs to consider in minor first aid situations. A broad array of medicinal compounds in the flowers of the plant, including various essential oils, flavonoids, saponins, triterpene alcohols, and carotenes, combine to help speed cell reproduction and inhibit bacteria and fungi at the site of injury. For minor cuts, insect bites, abrasions, or postsurgical incisions, a calendula salve (an oil-based product) will bring quick, soothing relief to pain and swelling, while lending antimicrobial properties to the body’s healing effort.

Infusions of calendula flowers are effective as a soothing and healing skin wash for various forms of inflammatory dermatitis, such as flea bites, poison ivy, eczema, or sunburn. The antimicrobial and astringent nature of this plant make it useful for treating burns as well.

In these circumstances, a cooled water infusion (skin rinse) is recommended over oils, salves, or poultices, as the latter may seal in heat, causing further aggravation of the injury.

A cooled water infusion may also be used as an eyewash for conjunctivitis, where the mild but predictable astringency of the plant combines with its bacteria-fighting properties to reduce irritation and infection.

Make a Calendula Rinse

Making a soothing, healing, antimicrobial calendula skin rinse is easy. Simply bring one quart of fresh water to a boil in a glass or stainless steel cooking vessel. Add 1/2 cup of the fresh dried flowers (available in bulk at many health food stores) to the vessel, remove from heat and cover. Allow to steep until cool. Strain through a sieve and you have a nice, yellow infusion that can be applied liberally to skin irritations.

The tea can also be applied to inflamed gums or added (1 cup of tea, as prepared above, to each quart drinking water) to your dog’s drinking water for symptomatic relief of sore throat or bacterial infections in the upper gastrointestinal tract.

Internal Uses of Calendula

Internally, an infusion or tincture of the flower may be used to treat inflammation or ulceration of the digestive or urinary tracts, where it assists with the drainage of lymph-engorged tissues and reduces inflammation. For these reasons, calendula preparations have been shown to be effective in the treatment of chronic colitis.

Calendula tincture may prove beneficial in the treatment of candidiasis. The antifungal qualities of this herb also make it a possible option for topical treatment of chromomycosis, an infection of the skin that occurs from various fungi origins.

While virtually no scientific data exist to validate the effectiveness of calendula against these forms of disease, its safety and reputed effectiveness as a broad-spectrum antifungal agent still make it an option worth considering.

The only contraindication for internal calendula use would be with pregnant females. While I have never heard of a case in dogs, rodent studies have revealed calendula’s ability to cause abortion, so it should not be used on pregnant dogs.

A Calendula Case Study

Mitsy, a four-year-old standard Poodle, has had big problems with fleas, but thanks to her owner’s meticulous efforts, Mitsy’s living environment is now less conducive to flea infestation. Improvements in food quality and a daily regiment of omega-3 fatty acids and herbal detox supplements have helped a lot, too. Within a few weeks only a few surviving fleas remained in the house or on Mitsy’s body.

But Mitsy still had a nasty sore on her back, near the base of her tail, and it just wouldn’t heal. Mitsy chewed at it practically every hour she was awake, and while the sore never looked infected, it didn’t have time to dry up and heal.

Fortunately, Mitsy’s owner, Janice, learned about the wound-healing powers of calendula extract. Every evening as Mitsy settled into her bed, Janice applied several drops of calendula tincture directly to the site of wound. To keep Mitsy from licking the calendula off, Janice would sit and pet her companion for a short while, until Mitsy’s mind was once again on the subject of resting, not licking.

The calendula inhibited bacterial growth and accelerated cell reproduction at the site of the wound each night while Mitsy was sleeping. Within a few days the sore was almost completely healed, and the itching had subsided enough to where Mitsy’s attention was back on chasing toys and playing with Janice.

An Easy and Inexpensive Herb

Calendula is easy to grow yourself, and thrives in just about any soil. If you continually remove the flowers (to dry and use), the plants will continue to produce blooms for months and months. You can readily find calendula in a variety of products in your local health food store. There are also many good products on the market that are designed specifically for use in dogs and other animals.

If your natural pet first aid kit doesn’t contain calendula salve, calendula tincture, and a small baggie of the dried flowers, then get some!

The Importance of Dog Grooming and Canine Skin Care

By
Randy Kidd
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The primary function of the dog’s hair is as a protective and insulating coating.

But if the eyes are the gateway or the window to the soul, the skin and hair are both gateway and window to the embodiment of an animal’s inner health and well-being. Shiny hair, that is, a hair coat that exudes a healthy and lustrous sheen, is an indicator of overall health of the animal. In contrast, a dull coat that lacks luster is an indicator that the animal isn’t as healthy as she could be.

One of the reasons people like to have pets around is that they are “furry,” and furry is fun to touch. Having a healthy coat promotes increased contact between a dog and its owner, with frequent contact ultimately strengthening the human-animal bond. Some caretakers are very sensitive to the feel and beauty of their dogs and to the “social status” that comes from owning a dog with a beautiful and/or unusual haircoat.

Bull Terrier

Changes in the texture or appearance of a dog’s coat are an indicator of something going amiss within, but haircoat changes are not specific for any one disease or condition. Dull or brittle hair can be caused by a dietary imbalance, or it may be due to diseases of digestive, hepatic, renal, thyroidal, immune, or parasitic origin. Alterations of hair typically appear rather late in the course of the disease, as hair growth is rather slow; it usually takes at least four weeks of disease progress before changes are noticeable in the hair. And it typically takes four or more weeks before a dietary supplement will have any positive effects on the quality of the hair.

The shine attributed to a healthy dog’s coat is largely due to a complex group of fats secreted through glands in the skin known as sebaceous glands, which function as a natural dispenser of hair conditioners.

Skin and hair basics
A dog’s skin and haircoat form a barrier to protect the body of the dog from infections, parasites, and the elements.

Animal hairs are classified into three basic types: a) “primary” or “guard” hairs that form the outer coat of an animal and provide protection from sunlight, moisture; b) “secondary” hairs (also known as fur or wool hairs, or the undercoat) that form the inner coat of an animal and provide insulation; and c) tactile hairs (whiskers) that provide sensory functions. Other types of hairs found on animals include tail and mane hair (in the horse, for example) and sensory hairs located in the inner ear (hairs that detect motion).

All adult dogs have longer primary hairs and shorter secondary hairs, but the ratio of each type of hair differs by age and especially breed. Some breeds have almost no undercoat and relatively short and thin primary hair. These “single coated” dogs include Boxers, Dalmatians, and Greyhounds. Yorkshire Terriers, too, don’t have much of an undercoat, but their primary coat is long and silky.

So-called “double-coated” breeds have significant undercoats and dense primary coats. The Labrador has a short but very dense coat of coarse primary hairs, and a thick undercoat of softer, insulating secondary hairs. The Bearded Collie has a soft, close undercoat and a shaggy outer coat.

Puppies are born with short, soft secondary hairs only. Sometimes the puppy’s coat color is similar to the adult’s; in other instances, the coat darkens or spots as the puppy matures. Dalmatian puppies are born with a pure white coat that develops black spots as the puppy grows.

Dogs of different breeds (and individuals within those breeds) display different rates of coat development. Most dogs have full, adult coats by six to eight months of age. The dog’s environment (length of day, average temperature), diet, and hormone levels can influence his coat development.

Dog hair is made of a hard substance called keratin, an insoluble protein that contains high amounts of sulfur (as the amino acid cystine) and lesser amounts of the amino acids tyrosine and leucine. Hair emerges from follicles, just below the outermost layer of skin. In humans, each hair grows from a single follicle. Dogs have single and compound hair follicles; a central follicle that produces the primary hair or guard hair may have two or more lateral follicles that produce 5 to 25 secondary hairs each.

Dog hair varies considerably in its coarseness or thickness actually a function of the hair’s diameter. Fine dog hairs measure about 75 microns; coarser hair may exceed 200 microns. Healthy hair relies on the balance of the diet: proteins (and especially the sulfur-rich amino acids such as cystine, as well as tyrosine and methionine), essential fatty acids, copper, and B vitamins. Up to 30 percent of the daily protein requirement of an adult dog can be used for the renewal of the skin and the hair.

Hormonal factors can also interfere with proper hair growth: thyroid and growth hormone stimulate the activity of the hair follicles, whereas corticoids and sexual hormones slow it down. When prolactin (a hormone produced by lactating females) levels stay high in the blood, the coat looks like the summer one, rather thin and sparse.

Everybody sheds
Breeds and individuals within every breed shed and regrow hair at varying rates. Dogs who live indoors, with little exposure to natural light or cold temperatures, tend to shed in a more or less continuous fashion.

In contrast, dogs who live outside, exposed to natural light and cold temperatures, are more likely to shed for several weeks in the spring and fall. In the fall, their short, light coats shed as they grow a thick, warm undercoat and long, weather-resistant guard hairs to prepare them for winter. In the spring, the winter coat is shed to make way for new, shorter, and lighter coats. The hair coat changes in appearance and texture but the absolute numbers of hair follicles and hair do not.

Contrary to popular belief, there is no such thing as a dog who does not shed; there are only dogs who shed a lot less. Each hair shaft produced by a hair follicle will eventually die and become dislodged from the skin (shed) and be replaced by a new hair shaft produced by that hair follicle. However, there are some breeds whose hair grows for a much longer period before it dies and is shed.  There are several phases in the activity of a hair follicle. In the first, called the “anagen” or growing phase, the hair is produced by the follicle.

Japanese Dog

The “catagen” phase is a short interlude between the growth and the resting (“telogen”) phase. In the telogen phase, the hair follicle is basically dormant. The growth of the new hair pushes the old hair out of the skin. Even though spring and fall bring on prolific hair growth, the dog’s hair follicles are not all in the same phase at the same time, so thankfully he never becomes totally bald!

In humans, the hair follicles on our heads spend most of the time growing (anagen phase). This phase can last years, depending on the ultimate length of your hair (as determined by your genes). In contrast, the resting phase for each follicle is generally only weeks. Poodles have a predominantly anagen cycle like ours; their hair grows for so long, that it needs cutting (perhaps several times) before it falls out.

Most dogs, though, have a telogen (resting) predominant cycle. In these dogs the anagen phase is short, only long enough to achieve the genetically desired length of coat ¨C anywhere from one month to a year or more. The hair then cycles into the telogen phase and remains there for a prolonged period of time. This hair is tightly bound within the follicle and will not readily fall out or be pulled out. In the Nordic breeds, it is thought that the telogen phase may last for years.

Finally, any stress such as anesthesia, disease, pregnancy, or administration of certain drugs is likely to put most of the follicles into a resting phase. About two to three months after the stressful event, when the follicles start to be active again, abnormal shedding will often be observed.

Golden Retriever

Natural color
A dog’s coat color is determined by his genes. That said, a variety of environmental factors can somewhat alter the color of his hair. Specific nutrients may be involved in hair color. Cystine, methionine, arginine, tyrosine, and phenylalanine deficiencies are reported to induce hair discoloration. Protein malnutrition induces disturbances in hair growth and quality.

A 2004 study by the American Society for Nutritional Sciences reported that trace-element deficiencies or imbalances also affect hair quality. Suboptimal zinc levels, it said, induce graying of hair, and copper deficiency causes fading of brown- or black-pigmented hair. Other trace elements such as iron and iodine can also affect hair color, as well as vitamins A, B-2, and B-6, pantothenic, folic, and nicotinic acids, and biotin.

Too much exposure to sunlight can make the hair brittle and cause a black coat to redden or turn brown. After a dog has been clipped, the color of its hair is noticeably lighter, and scars often leave a mark of hair that remains white throughout the rest of the dog’s life.

In aged dogs, hair color tends to fade. As a dog ages, his hair turns gray, especially on the head, beginning with the muzzle.

Hair loss in dogs
The common causes of hair loss in dogs, along with the basics of the appropriate natural remedies, are summarized below. Most are primarily problems of the skin and were more thoroughly covered in “Skin Secrets,” Whole Dog Journal November 2005.

• Flea-associated dermatitis
A dog with flea infestation typically has a brittle, broken hair coat, especially in the area just in front of the tail head where fleas prefer to reside.

Natural flea control always involves a multi-pronged approach. It’s been estimated that less than 10 percent of a given population of fleas are found on the resident dog at any given time. Killing the fleas on the dog, then, is actually a small part of the job!

The bigger task involves removing larvae and pupae from your dog’s home and eliminating places where the flea eggs can develop. Accomplishing this requires what’s called an “integrated pest management” program. In my experience, herbal anti-flea remedies are not tremendously effective as a first line of defense. For more on fleas, see “Eliminate Fleas Without Poisons,” March 2002.

• Canine atopy
This is an allergic itching syndrome along with subsequent loss of hair that is thought to be genetic in origin. Natural care will involve enhancing the immune system with herbs, supplements, and perhaps acupuncture. Natural anti-itch and antianxiety herbal remedies, acupuncture, or homeopathic therapy may also be helpful.

Your Dog's Veterinarian

• Pyotraumatic dermatitis (hot spots)
Hot spots involve intense itching in one or two isolated area of the trunk or limbs of the body. The involved areas may become inflamed and raw within a matter of hours. Stress may be a factor in its onset.

Natural remedies for hot spots, in my experience, have worked far better than the conventional medical treatments. I like to brew up a tea of calendula and use it topically on the affected areas. Herbal immune system enhancers such as echinacea are an important part of my recommended protocol, and in severe cases acupuncture or homeopathic remedies may be helpful.

I’ve also found that many of the hot spots are brought on by a segmental nerve-caused itch, the result of a misaligned spine or limb joint; chiropractic adjustments seem to be most helpful for these.

• Mange
Demodectic mange is caused when a parasite, Demodex canis, which lives a natural life in the hair and oil glands of the skin of most healthy dogs, starts multiplying rapidly. This tends to occur in young animals with an unhealthy immune system. It may have a genetic basis, as it tends to run in certain lines of dogs and seems to be more common in certain breeds. It doesn’t cause itching, but the involved areas are subject to secondary bacterial infection.

My thrust with natural remedies is to rebalance the immune system with herbs such as echinacea, antioxidants, and sometimes acupuncture.

Sarcoptic mange is due to a transmissible parasite that burrows through the layers of the skin causing intense itching. It passes from pet to pet through contact, and can pass to humans, too.

Sarcoptic mange, in my eyes, is primarily a disease of the immune system. I treat it with herbs such as echinacea, antioxidants, and possibly acupuncture to help balance the immune system. Topical herbal remedies can help decrease infections and minimize parasite numbers. Topical and internal anti-itch remedies may also help.

• Ringworm
Ringworm is a fungal disease that creates a round or oval non-itchy area of hair loss. Hair is lost because the fungus weakens the hair shaft and causes it to break off.

Some cases of ringworm respond to herbal topical remedies such as goldenseal, calendula, myrrh, or thuja along with internal herbs such as echinacea, cleavers, and yellow dock. Iodine preparations, used topically, may also be helpful, and once again, energizing the immune system may be beneficial.

• Stress-induced dermatitis
This “disease” typically affects “Nervous Nellies” who cannot sit still. Affected dogs simply chew on themselves if they can’t find anything else interesting to do.

The primary cure for this condition is to provide plenty of exercise and plenty of challenging tasks for the dog to do. Training games, food-dispensing toys, and frequent changes of activity can help distract and engage the dog in more healthful patterns. Flower essences may also be helpful when they are matched to the personality of the dog.

Many of these dogs have an itch caused by a misaligned vertebrae and they chew or dig at it. Chiropractic adjustments have helped a lot of these animals.

• Food allergies
While food allergies may be the cause of some itchy dogs, research would indicate that skin cases are not often related to food allergies. In dogs, the primary signs of food allergies are most often related to gastrointestinal upset. When we get the gut back into balance, the animal no longer has a problem with food allergies of any kind. (For more on this, see “Gut Feelings,” March 2005.)

• Miscellaneous conditions
Pyoderma, excessive numbers of bacteria in the hair follicle, may cause circular areas of alopecia or generalized excessive shedding. Natural treatment for pyoderma includes the use of topical and oral herbal remedies with antibiotic activity. Some breeds, like the Chow-Chow, may have an arrest in the hair growth after clipping. This resolves spontaneously after several months of a lack of hair regrowth.

Many diseases are associated with hair cycle abnormalities, including endocrine diseases such as hypothyroidism and Cushing’s syndrome; hereditary alopecia and hypotrichosis (the presence of less than normal amounts of hair); and familial zinc-responsive dermatopathy.

Holistic approach
From the veritable plethora of potential causes for poor hair growth listed in this article, it should be obvious that there will be many different approaches to finding a solution and each individual dog will require its own specific remedies.

My approach includes an individual-specific protocol that usually includes:

• Reenergizing the immune system. I commonly recommend herbal remedies, antioxidants, omega-3 fatty acids.

• Attention to diet, including making sure that all nutrients, especially vitamins and minerals, are balanced. Supplements include omega-3 and essential fatty acids.

Many holistic practitioners have found that simply adding raw meat to the diet (beginning with about 1 teaspoonful per 20 pounds of the dog’s body weight and gradually building up to about a quarter to a third of the total diet) will be the best skin and hair coat “medicine” money can buy.

• Chiropractic adjustments often worked when I’ve been treating skin conditions, so I think they should always be used.

• Specific natural remedies when indicated for instance, flower essences and/or calming herbs to calm the nervous beast, topical herbals for itch control and faster healing, and acupuncture or homeopathy when indicated.

Knowledge Is Key

By
Nancy Kerns
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Your article “Diets and the Older Dog” (Whole Dog Journal December 2006), asserting that kidney diseased dogs do need protein, is right on!Before my Whole Dog Journal days, I owned a Sheltie who was diagnosed with kidney disease. In the first stages he started refusing to eat. He had dropped from a lean 28 pounds to 24 pounds. I didn’t know what to do so I blended his dog food in with some mixed vegetables. This appeared to work and at his next visit to the vet’s office he had gained back two pounds.

However my vet recommended the Hill’s k/d canned diet to me saying that low protein is better for my dog with kidney disease. Instead of listening to my gut instinct, I started feeding the food. When I finally had to euthanize my dog due to his severe kidney failure (while religiously feeding him this diet that was supposed to help him), he died at 18 pounds with no muscle mass on his body at all. He literally looked like a skeleton with skin and fur hanging off of it.

After my Sheltie died I learned two things: listen to your gut instinct and don’t listen to your vet’s diet recommendations unless they go with your gut instinct. Knowledge is key and I’m just glad Whole Dog Journal is around for me for the next go around when my Corgi girl grows old!


Tiffany Birkinbine
via e-mail

The excellent article on agility training (“Leaping to Attention,” December 2006) could have been written about my dog, Hannah. I acquired my two Wire Fox Terriers about 18 months ago, when Hannah was 9 months old and Willie was 12 weeks old. When I got Hannah home, I discovered she was absolutely terrified of everything cars, noises, people, and especially dogs. She would cringe and try to escape, but if a dog got close to her she would snap and lunge at them. I was horrified! I didn’t know what to do to socialize her, since it’s difficult to get other dogs and people to tolerate this.

By chance, I was walking through the fairgrounds nearby and saw a woman putting up an agility course. We chatted, and she suggested bringing Hannah to classes just to watch. I went for two months, twice a week, sitting in the bleachers holding Hannah, who was trembling like a bowl of Jello. After about a month she stopped shaking. After a little while longer she became interested in what was going on, then tried to sniff at the dogs, etc.

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I then enrolled her in beginning agility, thinking it would give her confidence. Well, it worked! She became the star of her class, and she loves it. Her energy and playfulness have made her a natural. The agility classes were made to order: a fun game, dogs who couldn’t care less about her, and therefore posed no threat, an outlet for her energy, and all that positive feedback and encouragement. My other dog, Willie, is good too, but Hannah has been transformed from a fearful dog into a dog bursting with confidence and enthusiasm. And it’s so much fun for all of us.


Diana Chapman
Ferndale, CA

After reading “Shots Fired” (November 2006) about vaccines, I want to share my experience using titer testing to satisfy licensing requirements in a state that requires rabies vaccinations.Our dog Molly came to us as a two- or three-year-old stray in 1988. She’s a pit bull mix (maybe with German shepherd?) and a sweetheart. We had her vaccinated for the first time after she recovered from a condition she had when we first found her, salmon poisoning no, not salmonella; salmon poisoning. It’s the result of a fluke that dogs get by eating raw salmon in the Pacific Northwest, deadly to most.

My recollection is that she handled that first vaccination okay, but went on to have ever-more-severe reactions over the years. The last time we had her vaccinated, August 21, 2002, she was ill and depressed and our fairly conventional vet prescribed Benadryl. Because of her reactions, the vet and we agreed to skip her next regular rabies shot and then switched to titering in March of 2005, based on your article (“Take the Titer Test”) in December 2002. Our vet had never done this before for licensing purposes, but read the Whole Dog Journal article at our request and willingly forged ahead.

With the results showing strong immunity, our vet contacted the state veterinarian about using the titer results for licensing. The state vet said the titer results should be sufficient and added that if the county (the actual licensing agency) gave us any trouble to let him know. The county granted us a one-year license (because that’s all we asked for) based on the titer and a letter from our vet without question.

We ran another titer in June 2006 and requested a three-year license based on those still very strong results. No problem; license issued.

So, those who live in states requiring rabies vaccinations may find that the vaccine may not be required if you can show strong titer test results and a history of reactions to vaccines. I hope this will be of help to others trying to avoid the overvaccination of their dogs. Who knows? We may end up educating the licensing “community” and changing state laws.


Carol VanHouten
Sheridan, OR

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New Year, Old Tricks

By
Nancy Kerns
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Who were your favorite teachers in school? Picture those individuals for a minute, and I’ll bet I can describe them: Interesting, exciting people who made learning fun. People who were kind to you, and made you feel respected and appreciated. The teachers you remember most fondly were probably “tough” in that they had high expectations for you, and required you to learn and perform a lot. They encouraged participation, didn’t make a big deal over your mistakes, but cheered on your successes. You probably did well in their classes and felt “smart” in that setting. Am I right?

In fact, people who meet that description are using the same sort of teaching techniques that Whole Dog Journal promotes for training dogs. We advocate for these applications of positive reinforcement because they work so well, do not present a danger or threat to dogs or their handlers, and are so enjoyable for owner/teachers and their dog/students alike.

This issue of contains an unusual and, I hope, inspiring concentration of articles about positive training and behavior. Consider making these articles your new year, newly positive training guide!

I put Whole Dog Journal’s training advice to work every time I need to take photos to illustrate our articles. For the article on target training, I went over to my friend Donna’s ranch. Donna has five of her own dogs, and frequently finds several of the neighbors’ dogs hanging around, so I knew we’d have lots of fun training any number of canine models to target. I arrived at the ranch armed with my camera, loads of treats, several clickers, and a target stick. When I pulled out the target stick, which I had fashioned from a wooden back scratcher with a small ball on the end, Donna started laughing. “Remember Howard?” she asked me.

Years ago, Donna had a laid-back, 100-pound, yellow dog named Howard. When visitors would ask Donna about the stately Lab-mix, she would say mischievously, “That’s Howard; he’s a stick dog.” Of course, to most people, that would imply the dog is a compulsive stick chaser, one that is likely to drive you nuts by repeatedly dropping a stick at your feet in an effort to get you to throw it. Looking at the laid-back old fellow, most guests would look a little dubious. “Here, I’ll show you,” Donna would helpfully insisted. “Howard, go get your stick!”

Howard would gravely get to his feet, go into the kitchen, and dutifully return with a long, thin stick that had something on one end. He’d bring the stick back to Donna, and then, as the bewildered guest looked on, turn his slowly wagging tail toward her . . . and settle in for a satisfying session of back-scratching! Not quite the type of “stick dog” people expect!

I hope you have fun finding new tricks for a stick with your dog.

Dog Gear of the Year

By
Nancy Kerns
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There are millions of dog products being marketed to dog owners for direct use on, in, or around their dogs and puppies: foods, treats, supplements, toys, training tools, garments, medical supplies, grooming tools and unguents, beds, fences, and crates. Then there are the limitless number of dog-related items meant to glorify, commemorate, and stoke the human’s love and understanding of dogs: canine-related decorations and knickknacks, art, clothing, stationary, books, videos, DVDs, and computer programs.

We’re always looking for new and particularly useful products to recommend to our readers (and to use for our own dogs!). We limit our attention to products that provide an actual service, that help owners keep their dogs healthy, happy, safe, and well-trained. You can find “cute” on your own!

We can’t pretend to have seen much less inspected them all. The task would be endless. But we’ve seen enough products to quickly recognize particularly unique items, ones that stand out in terms of quality and usefulness, or that have solved an everyday problem in an extraordinary way.

Here are some additional challenges: letting go of past favorites (especially those that have no real peers), and sitting on our hands while waiting for products in development to reach market. We’re going to address both types, briefly.

We know, we know: There are thousands of dog treats on the market. But we keep buying Lick’n Crunch cookies, for ourselves and for gifts, because these are:

 

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  • Made out of 100 percent human edible ingredients in a plant that makes cookies for people
  • Completely safe and legal for people to eat
  • Perfectly safe for dogs to eat, since they contain carob (never chocolate)
  • Way tastier than Oreos . . . and dogs love them, too!
  • Available with either peanut butter or vanilla filling

There are many occasions and circumstances in which it’s helpful for a dog to wear a muzzle. In many cities, for example, only muzzled dogs are allowed on public buses and trains Muzzles are also helpful for dogs who have difficulty staying in control in the face of particularly stressful settings such as a vet’s office or on the sidelines of an agility event. Sadly, many people assume that a muzzled dog is a mean dog or that you, the owner, are mean! and the sinister look of many muzzles only reinforces those stereotypes.

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In contrast, the bright, cheerful print fabrics of Happy Muzzles convey an overtly friendly message: This is a nice dog who just has to wear this right now!

Happy Muzzles are constructed out of strong but light and washable, Cordura fabric, with a little padding in the nose for your dog’s comfort. They come in three prints daisies, cherries, and a blue geometric design and seven sizes, including two sizes appropriate for wide-faced dogs.

We’re always on the lookout for a better dog bed. Usually this implies a foam-filled bed; in our experience, only very thick, dense, top-quality foam can provide adequate cushioning for older, arthritic dogs . . . or to provide a comfortable enough pet bed to keep the young dogs and the cat off our sofa! But foam has its flaws. As it ages, it gets smellier and smellier. Thick foam is difficult to wash, rinse, and dry. Sometimes washing it makes it even more odoriferous. And when it gets even older, it starts to disintegrate!

CrossGel LLC has made luxury consumer and medical beds for humans for a number of years but not with foam. Its unique mattresses are made of a soft, heavy polymer gel that is molded into a sort of honeycomb structure (with square-shaped cells rather than hexagons). The columnar structure of the cells helps to distribute weight over a wider area, increasing the comfort of the bed (and in humans who are confined to bed, reducing or eliminating pressure sores). The material feels flimsy when a section of it is manipulated in the hand, but it does provide cushion and comfort. The material is machine washable, and air-dries quickly.

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CrossGel only recently branched out into pet beds. It tried to anticipate the special needs of dogs and the requirements of dog owners, and developed a antimicrobial, antibacterial, zip-on, fabric cover; this is the cover that we have tested. The base of the cover is a heavy, rubberized, no-slip material that holds up well to the bed’s heavy use; the top has not proved as sturdy.

The fabric used in the top of the cover, made of a special material that is supposed to resist odor buildup, has frayed and worn at a rate that indicates it won’t last nearly as long as the gel interior. Though we haven’t had the opportunity to test it, we’d probably be happier with the regular synthetic fleece cover that CrossGel offers for $50 less.

Like virtually all top-quality beds appropriate for use with old or arthritic dogs, the FlexGel bed is very expensive. Even so, its comfort seems worth the price. Eleven-year-old Cooper, seen above, has a choice of three beds in the Whole Dog Journal office. Since the arrival of the FlexGel bed, he chooses the FlexGel exclusively, even shunning his cozy (and well-padded) crate in cold weather. We think any older dog would instantly appreciate the FlexGel difference.

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Patricia McConnell is the real deal: An educated, experienced dog trainer with a lovely and evocative writing style, who offers dog owners insight as to their beloved companions’ behavior and good training and handling advice based on sound behavioral science. We’ve been ardent fans for years, especially of her 2002 book, The Other End of the Leash: Why We Do What We Do Around Dogs. That title helped people appreciate how the human’s and the dog’s experience of the world are different, why this frequently leads to misunderstandings and gaps in interspecies communication, and how we can more effectively understand, live with, and manage our dogs.

This book delves deeper into the shared emotional life of dogs and humans. In the hands of the wrong author, that would likely be fuzzy or irrelevant or both. In fact, in recent years there have been numerous best-sellers written by amateur dog owners that cover lots of the same territory.

What elevates Dr. McConnell’s work above others is her gift for noticing and clarifying the subtlest interactions between dogs and their people, and illuminating the biological, chemical, and evolutionary drives that influence those interactions.

When we better understand what is going on inside a dog when he wears a certain expression or assumes a particular posture, and we learn precisely how an emotion like anger predicts our physical responses, we can move past reacting to our dogs’ behavior in nonproductive ways. McConnell helps us advance to the level where we can compassionately and correctly interpret our dogs’ behavior, and respond with appropriate, kind, clear behavior of our own. That’s a literal prescription for a better dog/human relationship.

TreatStik made by Treatstik Pet Toys

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Food-dispensing toys are a boon to bored dogs and their busy owners. If it was up to us, few dogs would take their daily kibble from bowls. Instead, you’d enrich your dog’s day by delivering that kibble in a way that requires physical and mental effort over an extended period of time.

We’ve long advocated the use of Kongs and other rubberized toys for this purpose. However, we frequently hear owners complain that their dogs chew up (and sometimes swallow pieces) of their tough, but not indestructible, food-dispensing toys.

The TreatStik is an elegantly simple alternative. It’s made of hard, tough nylon, so it doesn’t invite chewing, but it can withstand the efforts of dogs who attempt to extract the food by brute force. These efforts are so unrewarding, especially in comparison to the strategy that results in the most generous payout nosing the toy again and again that even dogs with a history of chewing rubber toys change their strategy to the more rewarding nudge, nudge, nudge.

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TreatStik comes in just two sizes (small and large) and four colors. A cap on the large end unscrews for easy loading and cleaning, and the toy is dishwasher safe.

Still a Favorite…

Dogs who don’t chew up their Kong toys, and who need even more distraction in their days perhaps to help them deal with separation anxiety can benefit hugely from KongTime.

We wrote about KongTime at length in “Help for the Home-Alone Dog” in the September 2005 issue. KongTime is a machine that dispenses up to four food-filled toys, at random intervals, over a period of either four or eight hours (you select which). The dog’s anticipation of the toy-drops and the time it takes him to extract the food from the toys help him get through otherwise tedious (and perhaps anxiety-producing) days. Often this is enough to keep dogs with separation anxiety from barking all day, compulsively chewing on themselves, or trashing your house!

We like to recommend the device to people who are planning to get a new dog or puppy, in an effort to help them prevent the onset of boredom or anxiety-related destructive behavior. KongTime runs on batteries, and is easy to load and clean. It comes with four medium or large Kongs, and detailed instructions for its use.

KongTime best helps dogs with separation anxiety when used as one part of a life-enrichment program; further changes in the dog’s management may also be required. Note: KongTime is not recommended for multiple-dog households.

We’re not wimps. We’ve given shots, squeezed anal sacs, taken out stitches, and worse. But we still dread clipping dogs’ nails especially thick, black nails. We shudder at the thought of clipping too much off and hitting the “quick” the blood-filled, sensitive core of the nail. The dog jumps and yelps, you jump and yelp, blood goes everywhere . . . And if you don’t cut off enough, you have to do it again sooner.


We Can Hardly Wait…

QuickFinder is supposed to end all the drama. It’s a pair of guillotine-style nail clippers that utilizes biomedical technology to detect the presence of blood vessels. Position the clippers too far back on the nail and a red light indicates, “Do not trim.” When you’re close, a yellow light indicates caution. And when your position is just right, a green light says, “Go for it!”

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MiracleCorp expects to have the clippers on the market this month . . . but we’ve heard that before from the manufacturers of products we were eagerly awaiting. The hazards of international product manufacturing can mean we may have to wait a while to receive and test this promising product. If it works like the prototype we saw in action, we’ll let you know and we’ll buy several!

Dog Training Using Positive Techniques

By
Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA
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We’ve come so far since those dark days just over a decade ago when virtually all dog training was accomplished through the use of force and compulsion. I know those days well; I was quite skilled at giving collar corrections with choke chains and attained several high-scoring obedience titles with my dogs using those methods. And as a shelter worker responsible for the euthanasia of unwanted dogs for whom we couldn’t find homes, I was convinced that a little pain in the name of training was acceptable and necessary to create well-behaved dogs who would have lifelong loving homes.

In fact, when I enrolled my Australian Kelpie pup in the now-renowned Dr. Ian Dunbar’s first-ever puppy-training classes at our shelter in Marin County, California, I was so sure that using physical corrections in training was the only way to go, that I dropped out of the class after just two sessions; I was convinced he was ruining my dog with training treats!

It was several more years before I crossed over to the positive side of dog training, thanks in large part to my wonderful dog Josie, who gently showed me the error of my ways one day by hiding under the back deck when I brought out her dog training equipment. Her quiet eloquence made me realize, finally, the damage I was doing to our relationship with tools and techniques that relied on the application of pain and intimidation to force her to comply. I threw away the choke chains and began my journey toward a more positive perspective on training.

Dog Training Techniques

What Makes Positive Training Different?

Today, in many areas of the country a dog is at least as likely to be enrolled in a class with a trainer who uses positive methods as one who still employs old-fashioned choke chain or prong-collar coercion. As more dog owners and dog trainers see the light, clickers, treat bags, and positive reinforcement replace metal collars, shocks, and dominance theory. Many trainers who still fall back on compulsion tools will at least start with dog-friendlier methods, resorting to force and intimidation only when positive training seems not to work for them. Dogs and humans alike are delighted to discover a kinder, gentler method that still gets results.

Trainers, behaviorists, and dog owners are realizing that this is more than just a philosophical difference, or a conflict between an ethic that says we should be nice to animals versus a more utilitarian approach to training. While both methods can produce well-trained dogs, the end result is also significantly different. With positive training, the goal is to develop a dog who thinks and works cooperatively with his human as part of a team, rather than a dog who simply obeys commands.

Positive trainers report that dogs trained effectively with coercion are almost universally reluctant to offer behaviors and are less good at problem-solving. Fearing the “corrections” that result when they make mistakes, they seem to learn that the safest course is to do nothing unless and until they’re told to do something.

In sharp contrast, dogs who have been effectively trained with positive methods tend to be masters at offering behaviors. Give them a new training challenge and they almost immediately set about trying to solve the puzzle. In fact, one of the criticisms often voiced by trainers who don’t understand or accept the positive training paradigm is that our dogs are too busy always “throwing” behaviors instead of lying quietly at our feet like “good” dogs. This conflict in perspectives is illustrated graphically by a T-shirt belonging to one of my trainer friends, Katy Malcolm, CPDT, of Canine Character, LLC, in Arlington, Virginia.

“Behave!” proclaims the front of the shirt in bold letters. To the average disciplinarian, “Behave!” means “Sit still; don’t move!” But the back of Katy’s shirt says, “Do lots of stuff!” Positive trainers see the word “Behave!” as an action verb and encourage their dogs to offer lots of behaviors.

Another criticism of positive training is that the dogs are spoiled and out of control because, while the dogs are highly reinforced for doing good stuff, no one ever tells them what not to do. “Dogs,” the critics say, “must know there are consequences for inappropriate behaviors.”

We don’t disagree with this statement. Positive does not mean permissive. We just have different ideas about the necessary nature of the negative consequence. When one is needed, positive trainers are most likely to use “negative punishment” (taking away a good thing), rather than “positive punishment” (the application of a bad thing). As an adjunct to that, we counsel the generous use of management to prevent the dog from practicing (and getting rewarded for) undesirable behaviors.

The result? Since all living things repeat behaviors that are rewarding, and those behaviors that aren’t rewarded extinguish (go away), the combination of negative punishment and management creates a well-trained dog at least as easily as harsh or painful corrections and without the very real potential for relationship damage that is created by the use of physical punishment.

One of the most significant reasons for not using physical punishment or force with dogs is the potential for eliciting or exacerbating aggressive behaviors from them.

This was illustrated by an English Bulldog in a recent episode of the National Geographic Channel’s show, “The Dog Whisperer.” Cesar Millan, the star of the show, spent several hours intimidating the Bulldog on a hot Texas day, in an effort to get the dog to “submit,” until the dog finally inflicted a significant bite to Millan’s hand in a futile attempt at self-defense. Millan brushed the incident aside as insignificant, apparently blissfully unaware that he had provided the dog with the opportunity to successfully practice the undesirable behavior (aggression).

Even if the dog’s reaction falls short of a flesh-shredding defense, the relationship between dog and owner can be significantly damaged as the dog learns to fear or resent the angry, unpredictable responses of his human. Given our odd primate body language and behaviors, we are undoubtedly confusing enough to our canine companions, without adding what to them must seem like completely unprovoked, incomprehensible explosions of violence.

Crossing Over

Increasingly, trainers are entering the profession who learned their craft without an early foundation of coercion training. This is a good thing! However, there are enough old-fashioned trainers around that positive trainers still find themselves working with a fair number of “crossover dogs” those who are convinced that they must not dare offer a behavior for fear of punishment.

It can be frustrating to owners and trainers alike to work through the dog’s conditioned shutdown response to the training environment. Shaping exercises, especially “free-shaping” that reinforces virtually any behavior to start with, are ideal for encouraging a crossover dog to think outside the box. This serves the same purpose for crossover owners and trainers as well! (See “The Shape of Things to Come,” March 2006.)

Dog Training

It takes time to rebuild the trust of a dog who has learned to stay safe by waiting for explicit instructions before proceeding. It’s well worth the effort. The most rewarding and exciting part of training for me is watching the dawning awareness on a dog’s face that he controls the consequences of his behavior, and that he can elicit good stuff from his trainer by offering certain behaviors. We never, ever, experienced that in the “old days.” I used to take “sit” for granted, because if the dog didn’t sit when I asked, I made him do it.

Today, I never get over the thrill of that moment when the dog understands, for the first time, that he can make the clicker “Click!” (and receive a treat) simply by choosing to sit. It keeps training eternally fresh and exciting.

Not Quite Convinced?

So why, given all the available scientific and anecdotal evidence about the success of positive training, do some dog trainers and owners cling stubbornly to the old ways? Because it works for them much of the time? Resistance to change? Fear of the unknown?

It pains me that so many in the U.S. are still so far away from the positive end of the dog-training continuum. The celebrity status of Cesar Millan is evidence that dog owners and trainers are more than willing to buy into the coercion-and-intimidation approach to training, and that the use of force is an ingrained part of our culture.

Old-fashioned methods can work. Decades of well-behaved dogs and the owners who loved them can attest to that. So why should they bother to cross over to the positive side? The short answer is that positive training works, it’s fun, and it does not have the potential to cause stress and physical injury to our dogs through the application of force, pain, and intimidation. It takes the blame away from the dog and puts the responsibility for success where it belongs on human shoulders.

In the old days, if a dog didn’t respond well to coercion we claimed there was something wrong with the dog, and continued to increase the level of force until he finally submitted. If he didn’t submit he was often labeled defective and discarded for a more compliant model. With the positive paradigm, it’s our role as the supposedly more intelligent species to understand our dogs and find a way that works for them rather than forcing them into a one-size-fits-all mold.

The longer answer is that it encourages an entire cultural mindset to move away from aggression and force as a way to achieve goals. The majority of dog owners and trainers who have fun (and success) using positive methods with their dogs come to realize that it works with all creatures, including the human species. They feel better about training and find themselves less likely to get angry with their dogs, understanding that behavior is simply behavior, not some maliciously deliberate attempt on the dog’s part to challenge their authority.

People who use positive methods to affect relationships get nicer. It feels nice to be nice. Children learn to respect and understand other living beings instead of learning to be violent with them.

When training programs founder, positive trainers are more apt to seek new solutions rather than falling back on force and pain, or worse, blaming and possibly discarding the dog for not adapting to our rigid concept of training. Indeed, in the last two decades, during which time positive training has gained a huge following, we’ve made even more advances in our training creativity and our understanding of behavior, canine and otherwise, and have even more positive options, tools, and techniques.

So, why positive? It’s simply the best way to train.

Pat Miller, CPDT, is Whole Dog Journal’s Training Editor.Miller lives in Hagerstown, Maryland, siteof her Peaceable Paws training center. Sheis also the author of The Power of PositiveDog Training and Positive Perspectives:Love Your Dog, Train Your Dog.

Treating Canine Compulsive Disorders With Acupressure Techniques

By
Amy Snow and Nancy Zidonis
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Does a worried dog sing a worried song? A dog’s worried “song” is often expressed in quirky, repetitive behaviors and anxiety disorders known as Canine Compulsive Disorder (CCD).

A dog with CCD does more than exhibit anxiety in the face of an immediate threat; he often compulsively repeats a behavior that has nothing to do with escaping a danger or trigger. This is an excessive response; this level of worry is beyond immediate survival and, ironically, often results in the dog causing himself harm.

Dogs with CCD commonly exhibit behaviors such as licking their forelegs incessantly, chasing their tails or spinning in circles, monotonous barking, air-snapping, nail or foot chewing, sucking on the flank, ingesting nonfood objects, over-drinking water, and other repetitive behaviors. These behaviors may appear to have no immediate causation, though they may serve to relieve the dogs’ anxieties.

Anxiety and Your Dog

The first order of business for a dog exhibiting signs of CCD is to have a complete examination by a holistic veterinarian. If the vet determines that there is no medical condition underlying the repetitive behavior, review the dog’s environment and lifestyle. Consider the breed. Some breeds are genetically predisposed to particular manifestations of CCD. For example, herding breeds often find odd things to chase or nip at (including shadows, rays of light, flies, or dust motes), while retrieving breeds may compulsively mouth or suck toys or blankets.

Dogs who are kenneled or kept indoors many hours a day can become frustrated from lack of exercise and stimulation, and have a higher possibility of developing CCD. Confinement is probably one of the greatest contributors to CCD. Dogs are not loners; being left alone for long periods of time can cause the type of stress that leads to anxiety disorders. Animals exposed to consistent conflict or stress within a household often exhibit repetitive behaviors.

Knowing the genesis of the behavior helps to determine how to approach resolving CCD. Sometimes it is as simple as realizing that the dog is inadvertently being rewarded for an unwanted repetitive behavior, such as hyper-jumping, when all the dog really needs is attention. Providing the dog with direction and positive reinforcement for appropriate behavior can go a long way in resolving a number of problem behaviors. Punishment rarely extinguishes canine behaviors associated with CCD; in fact, punishing the animal usually causes further stress.

Combine OCD Treatments 

There are many alternatives to pharmaceutical approaches to help a dog overcome CCD. Acupressure is known to reduce the dog’s stress level while simultaneously establishing new energetic patterns that can support behavior change. Consulting a professional trainer to help design a behavior modification program can be helpful. There are also homeopathic, herbal, essential oil, and flower essence remedies available to support a dog who is contending with long-term stressors resulting in compulsive behaviors.

Acupressure and Dogs

The most effective approach to working with CCD is usually a combined approach. Acupressure offers the benefit of enhancing the effectiveness of behavior modification, herbal, and other remedies. Acupressure is based on the principals of Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM). From the TCM perspective, the extremely deep level of worry that underlies CCD indicates a disturbance of the animal’s spirit and sense that his basic needs are not being met.

When a dog is highly frustrated or conflicted for an extended period, his anxiety builds and his concern for his very survival increases. To relieve this anxiety, he may repetitively lick his foreleg until it is raw or chew his own paw two very common expressions of anxiety. If an animal hurts himself, we know that his spirit has been seriously injured and his sense of security on earth is deeply threatened.

Acupressure Point Selection

There are specific acupressure points pools of energy on the dog’s body that can be stimulated to relieve a dog’s anxiety and support his self-confidence and sense of security.

Acupressure and Dogs

The following acupressure points (also called “acupoints”) can be used to calm the spirit by relieving anxiety, stress, and worry while also addressing behavior problems and hyperactivity: Conception Vessel 14 (CV14), Governing Vessel 20 (GV 20), and Heart 7 (HT 7).

In addition, Stomach 45 (ST 45) and Spleen 1 (SP 1) can be used to promote the dog’s “grounding” and sense of belonging while also calming his spirit, clearing his mind, and resolving depression.

Acupressure Point Work Techniques

Each of the acupoints mentioned and identified in the chart below are bilateral; they are located on and should be addressed on both sides of the dog’s body.

Place the soft, fleshy portion of the tip of your thumb on the point and press down gently yet with intention. Count slowly to 30 while applying pressure or until the dog shows that he has experienced an energy release, by yawning, licking, stretching, rolling over, passing gas, or moving away. Then move to the next acupoint.

Another point work technique, which can be used especially if you want to increase the dog’s energy (if he seems depressed or lethargic), is to use your index and middle finger to scratch the acupoint. Again, count to 30 slowly or move to the next point when the dog indicates he has released the energy from the point.

While you hold each acupoint, think about how much you love the dog and want to meet his needs so that he will feel secure and he can let go of all his earthly worries.

Repeating this acupressure session every three or four days for four to six weeks will help the dog feel more comfortable and relaxed, especially if the other environmental, lifestyle, and social issues have been resolved.

Amy Snow and Nancy Zidonis are the authors of The Well-ConnectedDog: A Guide to Canine Acupressure, Acu-Cat: A Guide to FelineAcupressure, and Equine Acupressure: A Working Manual. Theyfounded Tallgrass Animal Acupressure Institute, which offers apractitioner certificate program and training programs worldwide,plus books, meridian charts, and videos. Contact them or purchasethese products at (888) 841-7211 or animalacupressure.com.

Pet Food Manufacturing Plants

By
Nancy Kerns
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Not long ago, I was talking with Jay Weinstein, professional chef and editor of Kitchen & Cook, another one of Belvoir Publications of magazines, at a meeting with our publisher in Florida. Weinstein asked me where I had flown in from. I told him I had attended a pet products show in Chicago, and was touring some dog food factories on the trip, as well. Ugh! Jay protested, his fine dining sensibilities temporarily offended. Why do they have to be called dog food factories? Why can’t they be called dog food kitchens, at least? Or pet nutrition facilities?

Jay has a point but it was my fault that he was aggrieved by my off hand expression. I’m sure none of the pet food company executives who were proud enough of their facilities to invite me to tour them actually call their workplaces dog food factories. While the very phrase dog food historically has been a sort of insult, the industry itself has become increasingly respectable.

Once primarily the repository for waste products from the human food manufacturing industry, pet food production is a fast-growing industry. And, significantly, the tippy-top end of the market, represented by foods that are made with all (or mostly) human-grade ingredients, is the fastest-growing segment of the market. A headline in the November 2006 Petfood Industry magazine announced, The primary market driver in the US continues to be conversion to higher-priced petfoods. We’ve always focused Whole Dog Journal’s attention on the top end of the pet food market the products made with the best-quality ingredients that money could buy. That’s because we strongly believe that products made with the freshest, best-quality, least-processed, most wholesome ingredients are the healthiest foods for dogs, and the ones that are most likely to support glowing health in the dogs who consume them.

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While our focus pleased the makers of products that we admired manufacturers whose philosophies are in alignment with ours some pet food industry insiders have complained to us that food is more than its ingredients. What did they mean?

Manufacturing Matters
What concerns these particular critics are pet food companies that purchase high-quality ingredients, but use lower-cost, inferior production facilities to manufacture their products.

Conceivably, two different manufacturers could use the exact same ingredients and formula and end up with widely divergent products in terms of cost and quality. Comparison of the foods based solely on the ingredients (such as we do in our annual food reviews) would understandably aggravate the executives who spent a lot more money and time to produce their company’s foods in the cleanest, best-managed, most-inspected facilities available.

A partial list of the potential hazards of poor manufacturing practices include:

  • Inattention to quality control standards results in acceptance and use of inferior or unsafe ingredients (i.e., mycotoxin-infected grains, rancid fats or oils, etc.).
  • Product quality is inconsistent (i.e., dry foods are not always dried to a standard level of moisture, nutrient levels vary widely in the finished product).
  • Product has a higher probability of being contaminated with chemical hazards (pesticides, cleaning agents); pests (insects, rodents, birds, or their feces); foreign objects (such as ingredient packaging, bits of metal or plastic); and biological hazards (bacteria, toxin-producing mold).
  • Inadequate testing results in excessive variation of nutrient levels or undetected contamination.
  • Product does not contain what its label says it contains (wrong ingredients are used, substitutes are made, measurements are incorrect, ingredients are omitted, or product is mislabelled).
  • Problems exist with packaging (faults with seals or seams, packages damaged in storage or transit).
  • Poor inventory control means food spends too much of its shelf life in a warehouse before being shipped to retail outlets; may arrive at consumers’ homes at the end of its “best used” by stage.

Unfortunately, while it’s clear that good manufacturing practices matter, it’s impossible for a consumer to determine which pet foods were made well when it’s still difficult just to find out where pet foods are made! And even if you do learn the origin of your dog’s favorite food, there are very few ways to determine a manufacturer’s reliability and competence.

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What I’ve seen
I’ve now toured nine pet food and pet treat production facilities in seven states. (Note: Since it was expressly not my intention to review or inspect any manufacturing facility to which I was invited, I’m not going to name or locate each facility I toured, or be specific in my descriptions of each site. My interest in each plant was educational, not investigative.)

I’ve witnessed the manufacture of extruded and baked dry dog (and cat) foods, baked “cookie” and “biscuit” type treats, dried treats and chews made from a variety of animal tissues, and canned food. I’ve yet to visit a facility that makes raw frozen diets or dehydrated diets, though I have received invitations and plan to see these foods made as soon as possible.

Interestingly, each facility I’ve toured seemed to be managed with an emphasis on different criteria.

The pride of one dry food plant seemed to be its on-site laboratory complete with a well-educated, full-time dedicated lab staff and its workers, who were retained long-term with larger than average salaries and generous benefits. The manager of that plant explained that his company leadership strongly felt that the longer each employee was retained, the more valuable they became.

At another facility, one that manufactured oven-baked foods and treats, certification and high scores in a variety of quality-control programs seemed to be the management’s primary focus.

At one canned food plant, top-quality ingredients were foremost on the manager’s mind; other aspects of the operation seemed to be hardly considered. I had a similar experience at the smallest extruded food plant I’ve seen so far. The ingredients were top-shelf; the manufacturing process itself seemed comically informal. At another cannery tour, special emphasis was put on the mixing and cooking processes; it appeared that extraordinary resources had been invested in advanced technology to achieve the most consistent results in those areas. The newest dry food plant I toured was similarly equipped with new and advanced computer-based technology for controlling ingredient inventory, mixing, cooking, cooling, coating, and packaging. It was far more impressive than some of the human food manufacturing operations I’ve toured.

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Size Matters
I haven’t been in any plants operated by the industry giants Nestle Purina, Mars (which, in 2006, purchased Doane Pet Care, the largest maker of private label pet foods), Iams (Proctor & Gamble), Hill’s Pet Nutrition (Colgate Palmolive), and Del Monte. At one point I made a huge effort to gain access to one of these behemoths and got nowhere.

I have interviewed a number of pet food industry executives who spent decades at one or another of the giant companies, who confirmed my guesses of what’s inside the huge plants: Lots of gleaming machinery and floors, and the most inexpensive ingredients available.

This gets to what seems to me to be the most significant trade-off: The bigger a manufacturing plant is (the greater its production capacity), the more likely it is to be impeccably clean and modern. Its products are more likely to be consistent . . . and the less likely it is to use fresh, whole ingredients in its products.

In contrast, in the plants I saw with the smallest operational capacity, lavish attention was paid to the ingredients of the food . . . but the sanitation was not impressive, and equipment for lab testing of the product was not in evidence. Small facilities, especially those with limited production runs (making food just a few days a week, or in extremely small batches), may lack the full-time, well-trained staff needed to produce foods with a consistent level of quality. While I’m unaware of any specific problems arising from the shortcomings I perceived, it’s generally true that smaller production facilities tend to struggle more with product consistency than the “big guys”.

That said, it’s only fair to mention that the most devastating incidents in pet food history, where many dogs died as a result of a problem with food manufacturing, involved moderately large- or very large-volume plants.

Overall Impressions
All in all, I have been impressed with the facilities I’ve seen. As my editorial compatriot noted, “dog food factory” conjures up images of a disgustingly smelly, unclean facility. Only one of the nine plants I’ve toured could possibly meet that description (and probably not for long, as the plant is slated for relocation to a new facility). The plants I’ve toured do smell like dog food but fresh, aromatic dog food, not rancid or putrid. Keeping in mind that the plants I toured invited me to their facilities, and each manufactures high-end foods, using high-quality ingredients, it shouldn’t be a surprise that all of the raw materials I saw (meat, fruit, vegetables, grains, dairy products, and herbs) were uniformly fresh-looking and absolutely of supermarket quality. (One plant owner complained that she has to order twice as many avocados as needed for her product formulations, since her employees eat as many avocados as they use in the pet food!)

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Most of the “fresh” meats I saw were frozen in big blocks, and are fed into the processing machinery still frozen. The only exception to this was one large facility where the fresh chicken was deeply chilled in huge, hot-tub-sized tubs. Temperature control was maintained in all cases.

It’s not quite fair to directly compare the two gourmet treat manufacturing facilities I toured with the much higher-volume food and biscuit plants. Suffice to say that Kitchen & Cook would be perfectly comfortable with the mixing, baking, and presentation of the cookies, pretzels, and even cakes produced for dogs in the gourmet treat bakeries.

My next goal is to tour facilities that make human-edible products that can also be fed to dogs. These foods, made in factories (or “kitchens”!) that produce human foods, are increasingly popular. I’m curious to see how (and if) these facilities differ from the pet food plants I’ve seen.

I’ll describe the step-by-step production process for dry and moist foods in our upcoming annual food reviews. The dry food review will appear next month.

 

Nancy Kerns is Editor of Whole Dog Journal.

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