Subscribe

The best in health, wellness, and positive training from America’s leading dog experts

Home Blog Page 316

Driving Safely with Your Dog

When I’m driving on the road and see a dog in someone else’s car, it makes me smile. I love it when people care enough about their dogs to chauffeur them around town. I love it even more when the dog is in a crate or seat belted in place.

My smile quickly vanishes, however, if the dog has her head stuck out the window, is sitting in the driver’s lap, darting back and forth across the seats, or worse, riding loose in the back of an open pickup truck. And the ultimate crime – leaving a dog in a hot car – motivates me to grab my cell phone and call out the animal cops.

As much as we love our dogs and want them with us all the time, we have an incontrovertible obligation to transport them safely, for their own welfare as well as ours, and that of other drivers on the roads. All dogs, large and small, should learn to ride politely in their cars. There’s a long list of safety hazards concomitant with having an unrestrained obstreperous canine in a moving vehicle. Here are some:

  • A dog who interferes with driver’s physical ability to drive the car. A dog sitting on the driver’s lap can interfere with steering. A dog who gets on or under the accelerator or brake pedals, hits the gear shift, or blocks the driver’s view can cause an accident.
  • A dog who interferes with driver’s mental ability to drive the car. When the driver’s attention is taken away from the road to deal with dog’s behavior, the dog has become a safety hazard.
  • A loose dog can become a flying missile if the car stops abruptly or is hit by another car.
  • If the car windows break or the doors pop open in an accident, a loose dog can escape, get hit on the road, or run off and become lost.
  • An unsecured dog can interfere with the efforts of rescue workers in an emergency.
  • A dog with her head out the window can suffer injury to her eyes from bits of flying debris, or worse, can have her head smashed by objects that pass too close to the car (other vehicle mirrors, signs, branches).
  • A loose dog can fall or jump out of an open window or back of a truck.
  • The temperature in a parked car on a warm (not even hot!) day can kill a dog.

I’m probably missing some, but I hope that’s enough to make you stop and think next time you’re planning an outing with your furry friend. That doesn’t mean you have to leave your dog buddy at home; there are lots of options for keeping everyone safe while enjoying canine company in your car.

Reducing the Risk

Not every dog loves car outings. Some high-risk car behavior is a result of canine stress and/or arousal. Reducing stress and arousal will decrease car-ride risks and increase car-ride enjoyment for both of you.

Tools and techniques for reducing stress in the car include covering your dog’s crate to reduce sensory stimulation; using a Calming Cap (see “Now You See It, Now You Don’t,” next page) for the same purpose; and incorporating a program of counter-conditioning and desensitization to overcome your dog’s car-related fears and arousal triggers (see “Road Scholar,” May 2001).

Additional tools for maximizing your car safety and pleasure are those that restrict your dog’s movement about the cabin. Many dog owners choose crating as a relatively safe car restraint option. This can be an excellent choice, and it does have drawbacks. To be super-safe, the crate needs to be fastened securely in the back of the vehicle.

Space is another consideration. Crates require a lot of room. If you have a mini-car and a maxi-dog, there’s no room for a crate – you need to explore other options, like canine seat belts.

When the “fasten your seatbelt” sign lights up on your dashboard, so can your dog’s. Many dogs ride comfortably and calmly secured in their seats with a belt designed for just that purpose. There are numerous models to choose from. (See “Seat Belt Your Dog,” February 2004.)

To avoid the potential for serious injury to his neck, though, be sure to select one that attaches to a harness, not your dog’s regular collar. Some dogs who habitually pace nervously back and forth in their cars settle down and relax when restricted by a seat belt. It’s easier on your nerves, too!

If you choose the seat belt route, be aware that the air bag danger that precludes small children from riding in the front passenger seat applies to dogs, too. Either disable your passenger air bag so Rover can ride in the front, or strap him into his seat belt in the back seat.

There are dogs who are not good seat belt candidates – typically puppies, young dogs, and others who might be tempted to try their teeth out on the seat belt or harness straps. Reprimanding your dog for chewing his belt comes under the “driver distraction” risk category. You can try applying a sour-tasting product such as Bitter Apple to the straps. This works for some dogs – but not all.

Another solution for strap chewers is a tasty stuffed Kong or other chew to keep their teeth otherwise occupied (see “King Kongs,” October 2000). You’ll need to secure the Kong so it doesn’t fall off the seat out of reach of your dog, by running a cord through the hole at the small end and tying it to a handy spot in the car. If that doesn’t work, you may need to give in and buy a bigger vehicle to accommodate a crate, or settle for a physical barrier. You might also teach your dog to love a basket muzzle and have him wear one while he’s belted in the back.

Barriers are designed for use in station wagons, mini-vans, and SUVs, and range in price from $40 to $80. The metal barriers are pressure mounted, and tend to be sturdier than the mesh ones, which attach with straps.

Barriers are not as safe as crates or seat belts. While they may protect human passengers from flying dog bodies in case of a wreck, they don’t protect the dog from getting bounced about the back of the vehicle, or stop him from escaping through broken windows. If you have a large dog and a small car, barriers won’t work; you’re still out of luck – and will need to reconsider the seat belt option.

Good Car Manners

Congratulations if you have already accustomed your dog to riding in the back seat (or “way back” of your car) with a harness and securely fastened seat belt. This, or a securely fastened crate, is the safest mode of car travel for your dog. But if you choose to ride with your dog unrestrained in your car, the least you must do is teach him to be calm and lie down in a safe spot other than your lap. (Dogs who are quiet and well-mannered in the car, but prefer to sit up and look out the windows, would be safer if they were secured with a harness and seat belt. When sitting up, a dog’s center of gravity is higher, putting the dog at higher risk of being thrown through the air in an accident.)

Some dogs prefer to lie down on the back seat, the floor of the back seat, or the way back of a station wagon, with little or no guidance. Dubhy, our Scottish Terrier, lies like a rock on the back seat of a car – you wouldn’t even know he’s there. In contrast, Bonnie, our newest acquisition, paces nervously in the car, and if allowed will attempt to climb into the front seat, and sometimes my lap. Given how deeply ingrained this behavior is, attempting to train her to lie down in the back seat would probably cause both of us undue stress. We crate her in the car, even for short trips. Your dog should have a solid and reliable “down” behavior on verbal cue (see “Sit Happens,” February 2001) before you expect him to ride politely in your car. If he does have a solid down, you can cue him (and reward!) for lying down quietly while you are driving (or rather, when you are safely stopped during drives).

If your dog does not reliably respond to a “down” cue, a program to teach polite car manners is in order. This will require two people – one to drive the car, one to reinforce your dog for appropriate car behavior. A large empty parking lot is a good place to start your lessons, to minimize distractions for both driver and dog.

Cue your dog to lie down on the back seat. When he does, mark the behavior, with the click! of a clicker or a verbal marker (such as the word “Yes!”), and give him a treat. Drive a short distance while your helper continues to mark the desired behavior and reward your dog at a rate of reinforcement high enough to keep the dog in his down position. Depending on your dog, this may be every few seconds to start, or it may be a slower rate if your dog is already reasonably calm in the car.

Continue to drive short distances with stops in between to give everyone a break. Gradually increase the distance of your practice runs, while your helper gradually decreases the rate of reinforcement. As you increase the length of the runs, keep the time between reinforcements of a random interval – some longer, some shorter. This way, your dog won’t get antsy as he starts anticipating the next click; he’ll never know when it’s coming! Have your helper ultimately fade the clicks and treats altogether as the car is moving, since you won’t be able to click-treat safely when you’re driving alone. Your goal is to have her reinforce polite car behavior only occasionally, and only when the car is stopped.

When your dog rides well in an empty parking lot, move your practice sessions to a parking lot with traffic, so your helper can reinforce your dog for riding politely in a more stimulating environment. Again, start with a high rate of reinforcement. When he has impeccable manners in the parking lot with clicks and treats only when the car is stopped, you’re ready to take it on the road, still with your helper present to reinforce appropriate car behavior. With that step accomplished, you can fly solo. Go back to the empty lot and give it a trial run. If your dog has learned his lessons well, you’ll zip through this part with ease. Drive a short distance with your dog lying down in his back-seat spot. Don’t try to click and treat while you are moving! Stop, click, and treat.

As long as he’s staying in his place, gradually increase the length of your runs, sometimes giving him a click and treat when you’re stopped, sometimes not. When he’s ready, move to a parking lot with traffic, and practice there until you’re ready to face the real world.

Pat Miller, CPDT, is Whole Dog Journal’s Training Editor. Miller lives in Hagerstown, Marland, site of her Peaceable Paws training center.

Download the Full October 2006 Issue PDF

To continue reading this article or issue you must be a paid subscriber. Sign in
If you are logged in but cannot access this content, a) your subscription may have expired; b) you may have duplicate accounts (emails) in our system. Please check your account status here or contact customer service.

Subscribe to Whole Dog Journal

With your Whole Dog Journal order you’ll get:

  • Immediate access to this article and 20+ years of archives.
  • Recommendations for the best dog food for your dog.
  • Dry food, homemade diets and recipes, dehydrated and raw options, canned food and more.
  • Brands, formulations and ingredients all searchable in an easy-to-use, searchable database.

Plus, you’ll receive training and care guidance to keep your dog healthy and happy. You’ll feed with less stress…train with greater success…and know you are giving your dog the care he deserves.

Subscribe now and save 72%! Its like getting 8 issues free!

Already Subscribed?

Click Here to Sign In | Forgot your password? | Activate Web Access

Bottoms Up!

0

There are two articles in this issue that deal with various things that happen at the dog’s nether end. “Dog Gone Dung” contains everything you ever wanted to know about dog poo – and come on, admit it: You were afraid to ask. “Butt Scoot Boogie” is about canine anal glands, and what can go wrong with them, and what you should do about it. Assigned months apart to two, ahem, regular WDJ contributors, they arrived in my e-mail in-box at about the same time . . . and so I thought, what the heck, let’s just go ahead and get it all over with at once.

Teaching dogs to read? Have we finally lost our minds? Actually, no! CJ Puotinen’s fascinating article on page 10 is about the efforts of Dr. Bonnie Bergin, who trains dogs for people with all kinds of challenges, including the lack of ability to speak. She realized long ago that dogs could be trained to recognize symbols – even letters of the alphabet – as cues for behavior. Creative people (such as CJ herself) are putting dogs’ ability to read to work in helping kids learn to read. You have to check it out.

Finally, concerning Pat Miller’s article on the facing page: Many of us bring our dogs with us when we take road trips or just run errands in our cars. The article reminds us of some critical car safety tips we ought to keep in mind – for the sake of our dogs, ourselves, and our fellow drivers. Loose dogs, especially excitable or unruly ones, really are a hazard to themselves and others in cars.

A few days after Pat sent me the article, I received the following e-mail from her:

“So, I’m driving back through town after doing shelter assessments this morning and in the next lane (a one-way street downtown), I see a sedan with the front passenger window open and a tricolor Beagle-mix half-hanging out the window.

“Hunh, I mused. I just wrote about that! He really could fall out of that window!

“So we go a couple of blocks, and I pull slightly ahead of the car. After I pass it, I glance in my rearview window – just in time to see a tricolor blob go Splat! onto the pavement.

“I jam on the brakes, hit my flashers, jump out of my van, and dash after the dog, who is now limping down the street away from me, a little stunned, but walking. I call to him, with no acknowledgment. He turns into a parking lot that goes through to a busy street. Just then the owner comes up behind me and calls to the dog, who looks up but doesn’t stop. The owner calls again, running toward the dog, and this time the dog pauses. The owner reaches for the dog’s collar, but the dog evades his reach and circles back toward me. I kneel and schmooze him up, he comes up to me, and I calmly grasp his collar and hold him until his owner steps up to take him.

“As we walk back through the traffic jam we’ve created, the owner thanks me and says, I guess I won’t let him do that anymore!

“Fortunately, no harm done, but in my 50-plus years I’ve never actually seen a dog fall out a car window. Talk about synchronicity!”

Pat finished her story by writing, “Hey, Nance, do you think you could use an article about winning the lottery?”

-Nancy Kerns

Hot Spots and Lick Granulomas

2
bermese mountain dogs high risk for hot spots

[Updated January 30, 2019]

HOT SPOTS AND LICK GRANULOMAS: OVERVIEW

1. Treat hot spots with home remedies and lick granulomas with natural remedies that speed healing and tissue repair while clearing bacterial infections.

2. If necessary, keep your dog from licking and irritating the area by applying a bitter-tasting topical product or fitting the dog with an Elizabethan or cervical collar.

3. Help prevent future hot spot outbreaks by improving your dog’s diet and lifestyle.

Your dog has a weeping, oozing wound on her leg or a yucky red blob on the top of her head, and at first you wonder how she injured herself. But if you’ve been around the dog-care block, you realize that it isn’t a cut or scrape. That gooey mess might be diagnosed as pyotraumatic dermatitis, wet eczema, or a Staphylococcus intermedius infection, but it’s what everyone calls a hot spot.

Painful, irritating, swollen, and warm to the touch, hot spots can emit pus and smell awful. They can be triggered by bacteria, yeast, fungi, mange, fleas, irritating grooming products, swimming pool disinfectants, contaminated lakes or ponds, lawn-care products, or other environmental factors. Some dogs break out in hot spots weeks or months after being vaccinated. In many dogs, hot spots mark the return of seasonal allergies.

weimeraner

 

Most veterinarians treat hot spots after clipping and shaving fur around the lesion, a process that in severe cases can require sedation or the use of a local anesthetic. The area is washed with a disinfecting soap or rinsed with a liquid antiseptic. Astringents, anti-itch agents, antihistamines, hydrocortisone sprays or creams, drying agents, or antibiotics may be applied. In some cases topical treatment is accompanied by steroid injections or oral medication.

If the patient can’t leave a hot spot alone, she may have to wear an Elizabethan or cervical collar, which prevents the dog from biting, licking, or chewing the area while it heals.

Any dog can get a hot spot, especially those with heavy coats who live in humid climates. Sometimes swimming dogs get hot spots on their necks, which stay moist under collars. Dogs with a history of allergies, ear infections, anal sac irritations, or tangled hair mats are likely candidates. Breeds associated with hot spots include Labrador Retrievers, Golden Retrievers, St. Bernards, Bernese Mountain Dogs, Collies, and German Shepherds.

Lick Granulomas

Lick granulomas, officially known as acral lick dermatitis or ALD, occur when a dog licks excessively on a leg, paw, or other area, producing an itchy ulceration. Over time the licking forms a thick, hairless, red patch that may be accompanied by infection. Most lick granulomas are the size and shape of a silver dollar, but some extend for several inches in all directions.

A lick granuloma can result from an insect bite, cut, skin infection, imbedded foreign object, allergic dermatitis, arthritis pain, deep-seated fungal infections, external parasites like scabies and demodex, skin cancer lesion, or inflamed nerves or neuropathies, or it might begin for no apparent reason. In the last case, it’s considered a behavioral problem similar to human compulsions like nail biting. Psychological factors that contribute to compulsive licking often involve boredom, being crated for long periods, the addition of a new pet or person to the household, the death or loss of a companion animal, the absence of a family member, a move to a new house, or being boarded away from home.

The breeds most associated with ALD include Doberman Pinschers, Great Danes, Golden Retrievers, Labrador Retrievers, German Shepherds, Boxers, Dalmatians, English Setters, Shar Peis, and Weimaraners. In these breeds, allergy-related ALD is most likely to appear in middle age, when the dog is at least five years old. In many cases, symptoms coincide with seasonal allergies.

Anti-inflammatory drugs such as cortisone, antibiotics such as Cephalexin and Clavamox, laser therapy, antifungals, allergy shots, and psychoactive medications are conventional treatments for ALD. As with hot spots, an Elizabethan or cervical collar may be necessary to allow the wound to heal without being disturbed.

Finding the Cause of Hot Spots

Because conventional therapies can have serious side effects and because hot spots and lick granulomas are notorious for recurring, holistic veterinarians look beyond their obvious symptoms to their underlying causes.

Richard Pitcairn, DVM, PhD, author of Dr. Pitcairn’s Complete Guide to Natural Health for Dogs and Cats, disagrees with conventional veterinarians who diagnose various skin and coat problems as separate diseases. All skin and coat disorders, he says, are a single basic problem that manifests in individual animals depending on heredity, environment, nutrition, and other factors.

“One dog may have severely inflamed, moist, itchy hot spots near the base of his tail,” he explains, “while another may have thick, itchy skin along his back, with greasy, smelly secretions – but they are really the same health problem.”

According to Dr. Pitcairn, skin disorders stem from:

  • Toxicity, most of it from poor-quality food and some from environmental pollutants or topically applied pest-control chemicals.
  • Vaccinations, such as routinely administered multiple vaccines, which can induce immune disorders in susceptible animals.
  • Suppressed disease, the remains of inadequately treated conditions that were never cured and which may cause periodic discharge through the skin.
  • Psychological factors such as boredom, frustration, anger, and irritability. “As I see it,” he adds, “these are nearly always secondary issues that simply aggravate an already-exiting problem.”

What’s the cure? “It is possible to alleviate or even eliminate skin problems simply through fasting, proper nutrition, and the total health plan I describe in my book,” says Dr. Pitcairn. “It is surprising how much improvement can occur by these measures alone.”

He adds, “The most difficult conditions to treat are those previously dosed with lots of cortisone or its synthetic forms such as azium, depo, flucort, prednisone, or prednisolone. Corticosteroids effectively suppress symptoms like inflammation and itching, but they are in no sense curative.”

Fasting Your Dog Can Help Heal

The first step in Dr. Pitcairn’s treatment of hot spots, lick granulomas, and other skin problems is a short fast followed by an improved diet.

Juliette de Bairacli Levy recommends fasting for every canine illness. As she explains in her book, The Complete Herbal Handbook for the Dog and Cat, “During a fast, the body burns up fat deposits. As large amounts of body impurities are embedded in the fatty tissue of domestically reared dogs, the body begins to be cleansed deeply as stored fat is oxidized. Also the stomach and intestines, relieved of their usual tasks of dealing with food, can now concentrate on clearing away toxins.”

For skin conditions, Levy recommends feeding water only for two days, then water supplemented with honey, a tablespoon or two depending on the dog’s size, at mealtimes for an additional two days.

When it’s time to reintroduce food, consider switching from commercial pet food to a home-prepared diet, which is a simple, effective way to avoid processed grains, soy, chemical preservatives, artificial colors and flavors, synthetic vitamins, and other hard-to-digest or inferior-quality ingredients that can contribute to hot spots and skin irritations. If it’s not possible for an owner to feed her dog a home-prepared diet, upgrading the dog’s commercial food to a better-quality protein-based food may do the trick.

Another helpful strategy is to feed the dog once per day, removing food after 15 to 20 minutes, and omitting snacks and access to food dispensers. The canine digestive tract is designed for short feasts and long famines, not constant grazing.

For improved digestion and assimilation, try supplementing your dog’s food with an enzyme product such as Prozyme and/or Willard Water.

Adding Seacure, a predigested fish protein powder, is another way to speed tissue repair. Dee Eckert, the manufacturer’s director of operations, has received numerous reports from customers whose dogs recovered from hot spots and lick granulomas in record time. “Some of these dogs had lost over half their fur to hot spots,” she says, “but once they were put on Seacure, their sores healed quickly and their hair grew back.”

Topical Remedies for Treating Hot Spots

When it comes to topical remedies, holistic veterinarians, groomers, breeders, and owners have dozens of favorites. Here are a few.

EMT Gel, made from bovine collagen, stimulates and literally supports new cell growth by acting as a tissue adhesive while sealing and protecting hot spots, lick granulomas, and other injuries, including severe or deep wounds. The gel significantly reduces pain, bleeding, scarring, wound weeping, and the risk of infection. EMT gel comes in a tube. EMT Gel Spray is recommended for the treatment of scrapes, scratches, and other minor skin injuries, and it’s ideal for lick granulomas and hot spots because it contains a bitter, nontoxic ingredient that deters dogs from licking it off.

Another product mentioned in August’s wound healing article is the North American Tree Resin Company’s Hotspot/Livestock Formula, which contains highly antiseptic resin or pitch from coniferous trees. In addition to treating staph infections, cuts, fungal infections, and other wounds, pitch salve quickly repairs the damage caused by hot spots and lick granulomas.

The medium-chain fatty acids in coconut oil make it a skin-healer with antibacterial, antiviral, and antifungal properties. Coconut oil can be applied directly to hot spots, lick granulomas, boils, and other skin conditions, and is making a comeback in the diets of the health-conscious. Most dogs love the taste, so it’s easy to add to food.

The recommended maintenance dose is 1 teaspoon per 10 pounds of body weight. For topical application, it can be made less appetizing with a top layer of grapefruit seed extract, which has a bitter taste, or a tablespoon of coconut oil can be mixed with 10 to 15 drops of any skin-healing essential oil that has a medicinal odor.

Willard Water is a concentrate added to water for enhanced healing benefits. Wendy Volhard, author of Holistic Guide for the Healthy Dog, applies a dilute solution of Willard Water to hot spots as soon as they appear. “It dries up the inflamed areas overnight,” she says.

bernese mountain dog

 

Cortney Rice of New City, New York, used Willard Water on her six-year-old Rottweiler, Kalle, who had a two-inch-wide hot spot on her inner left leg, just below the knee joint. “It was red, oozing, sometimes bleeding, and very warm to the touch,” Rice describes. “It did not respond to Pramoxine HCl, which our veterinarian prescribed. I diluted a teaspoon of Willard Water concentrate with 8 ounces water and sprayed it twice a day, thoroughly soaking the hot spot and the area around it. By the second day, the hot spot had dramatically dried up and the skin was cool again. Kalle hasn’t licked her knee since the first application, plus she loves getting sprayed with it. I have continued this treatment for six days now, and her skin looks great.”

Herbs and Aromatherapy for Hot Spot Treatment

Hot spots and eczema, says Juliette de Bairacli Levy, are often nature’s way of ridding the body of accumulated toxins from commercial pet foods and/or a lack of exercise. She treats hot spots and lick granulomas with fasting, natural diet, and medicinal herbs, adding her own herbal antiseptic tablets to the dog’s food to speed healing from within.

Vermont herbalist Rosemary Gladstar has followed Levy’s nutritional recommendations for all of her Bernese Mountain Dogs, including Deva, who arrived with mange and large, bald, weeping hot spots.

“Having shared my life with a breed that’s prone to hot spots, I have a lot of experience,” Gladstar says. “In addition to fasting dogs and putting them on a natural diet, I apply powdered goldenseal (Hydrastic canadensis) to the hot spot. It will stick, especially if there is that awful ooze, or you can mix it with aloe vera gel, comfrey (Symphytum officinale) tea, or powdered comfrey and aloe vera to make a paste that heals the sore. Thanks to her natural diet and herbal first aid, Deva, who is now nine years old, continues to thrive, and her coat looks terrific.”

Aromatherapy’s essential oils and hydrosols offer many effective ingredients for the treatment of hot spots and lick granulomas. As WDJ has explained in the past, essential oils and hydrosols (“flower waters” produced during steam distillation) have significant healing properties, as do the carrier or base oils in which essential oils can be diluted for safe, effective pet application. Hydrosols of any of the plants mentioned here can be applied full-strength to hot spots and lick granulomas.

Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia), helichrysum, also known as immortelle or everlasting (Helichrysum italicum), and carrot seed (Daucus carota) essential oils are famous for their skin-healing properties. Palmarosa (Cymbopogon martinii) and sweet marjoram (Origanum marjorana) essential oils heal the skin while relieving stress. Peppermint (Mentha piperita) essential oil relieves pain and itching while stimulating circulation and healing. German chamomile (Matricaria recutita), Roman chamomile (Anthemis nobilis), frankincense (Boswelia carteri), and myrrh (Commiphora myrrha) essential oils reduce pain, itching, and irritation. Juniper berry (Juniperus communis) essential oil is recommended for eczema and hair loss.

Kristen Leigh Bell, author of Holistic Aromatherapy for Animals, recommends labdunum or rock rose (Cistus ladaniferus) essential oil in wound care blends because of its antibacterial, astringent properties. She also uses niaoili (Melaleuca quinquenervia veridiflora, or MQV) essential oil for any type of allergy manifesting itself in the skin. MQV oil is related to tea tree oil but has a more pleasing scent along with powerful antibacterial and antihistamine effects.

Unrefined sea salt helps heal wounds of every description, and when essential oils are added to sea salt and water, the result is a highly effective hot spot spray or wash. To a glass jar containing 1 cup of unrefined sea salt or kosher salt, add ½ teaspoon (30 drops) of any of the essential oils mentioned here, in any combination. Close tightly, then shake and rotate the jar to mix well. Store in a cool, dark place. When needed, dissolve 1 tablespoon of the salt in ¼ cup cool water. Shake or stir to dissolve. Spray on hot spots and lick granulomas, or saturate cotton and apply three or four times per day.

Ten to 15 drops of essential oil in a tablespoon (½ fluid ounce) of carrier oil is another effective treatment for these conditions. Calophyllum or tamanu oil (Calophyllum inophyllum) is one of the most prized carrier or base oils for the healing of wounds, eczema, and other skin conditions. Coconut oil, rose hip seed oil (Rosa mosquette, R. rubiginosa), and kukui nut oil (Aleurites moluccana) are other effective carrier oils renowned for their ability to fight infection, stimulate cell growth, and reduce or prevent scarring.

Years ago, Colorado aromatherapist Frances Fitzgerald Cleveland was out of town when her dog, Jake, developed a hot spot. The steroid shot he received caused kidney failure and Jake died. In his memory, Cleveland blended Jake’s Remedy, which contains purified water, apricot kernel oil, and a proprietary blend of essential oils. Oscar, Cleveland’s seven-year-old black Labrador Retriever, swims every day, gets sprayed every day, and has never had skin problems.

Shelley Voorhees of Littleton, Colorado, reports that her champion Rottweiler was a blood donor in 2000. “He had a severe reaction to the scrub that was used, and he developed a hot spot that covered his neck and chest,” she says. “After a course of antibiotics, the hot spot was still very inflamed and still oozing. I tried Jake’s Remedy, and within 48 hours the oozing stopped. The hot spot healed within a week and his hair quickly grew back.”

At AromaDog, Faith Thanas combines essential oils with rosehip seed, jojoba, and evening primrose oils to make Hot Spot Anti-Inflammatory, a healing blend that calms and soothes.

“It’s been tested over and over with great results,” she says. “Rose geranium balances the system, repairs capillaries, regenerates cells, and heals wounds. Rosewood is a cellular stimulant. Pine is anti-infectious and good for sores and eczema. Helichrysum and lavender are an extremely healing combination, especially for open wounds. This product also contains Rescue Remedy, the Bach Flower Remedy blend that supports dogs in all types of emergencies.”

In Hollywood, Florida, Paul Funt’s American Bulldog, Diesel, had two very large hot spots on his head and face. “Both were extremely irritated and infected,” he says. “I tried several herbs sent by my homeopath and finally gave up. Then Diesel saw a doctor who sent him home with AromaDog’s Hot Spot remedy, which I applied twice daily. Within two days, the hot spots were almost completely healed, and after five days they were gone.”

Kansas aromatherapist Joan Clark developed Hot Spot Mist with the essential oils of blue chamomile, lavender, helichrysum, and tea tree in a base of fractionated coconut oil, callophyllum oil, jojoba, borage seed oil, aloe vera, and St. John’s wort.

“My success stories include my own dog, Sabrina,” she says. “She got a hot spot on her neck, and as soon as I noticed it I used the Hot Spot Mist along with lavender hydrosol to keep drying it out. It disappeared in less than 48 hours and left a nice healthy scab.”

Additional Therapies for Hot Spots and Lick Granulomas

Physical symptoms are easy to address, but conditions like obsessive-compulsive disorders, boredom, frustration, and anxiety are more challenging.

Obviously, it can make a difference to give a bored dog something interesting to do, an anxious dog the reassurance of a stable, predictable routine and positive training, and a frustrated dog plenty of interesting outdoor exercise. Any dog can be treated with energy-balancing techniques like Tellington TTouch, massage, Reiki, acupuncture, and nutrition.

Flower remedies, also called flower essences, can help, too. Kris Lecakes Haley, a Bach Flower Remedy practitioner in Arizona, has found that white chestnut and chestnut bud flower remedies effectively address repetitive chewing and licking, while crab apple and beech help with allergy-driven skin eruptions.

In Bach Flower Remedies for Animals, Helen Graham and Gregory Vlamis recommend walnut for eruptive conditions like hot spots and agrimony for anxiety that manifests in skin conditions. Flower remedies work best when diluted with water and applied frequently to the mouth, ears, nose, abdomen, and paw pads or sprayed in the air near the dog.

With the help of improved nutrition, effective topical treatments, rewarding routines, active outdoor exercise, and emotional support, any dog can enjoy a happy, healthy life free from hot spots, lick granulomas, and other skin problems.

A long-time contributor to WDJ and author of The Encyclopedia of Natural Pet Care, Natural Remedies for Dogs and Cats, and other books, CJ Puotinen lives in New York with her husband, a Lab, and a tabby cat.

Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM) Doctors, Known as “Barefoot Doctors”

By Amy Snow and Nancy Zidonis

What if animal healthcare practitioners were only paid if animals were healthy? In times of old in China that is the way it worked. The Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM) doctors, known as “barefoot doctors,” would go from village to village and receive housing, food, and payment only if the community was healthy.

The reasoning was simple: If the community was not well, and that often included the animals, it meant the barefoot doctor was not doing a good job, so why should they reward him? When the community was well, they lavished him with riches, food, and elegant accommodations.

288

When you think about it, paying a healthcare practitioner as a reward for good health makes sense. This approach reinforces good health rather than “rewarding” illness. Paying our medical doctors and veterinarians only when we were all healthy would turn conventional healthcare for animals and humans on its head. It must be said, though, that conventional healthcare practitioners have begun to see the virtue of focusing on health and creating illness prevention programs.

Focus on health
Chinese Medicine has always focused on health. From a TCM perspective, most illness is understood as a breakdown of the immune system. When the body’s natural defenses are not strong, external climatic pathogens, such as wind, cold, and heat can “invade” the body and illness can occur. To maintain the body’s defense system the animal must live a balanced, healthy lifestyle.

Supporting a healthy lifestyle for our dogs means natural nutrition, daily exercise, adequate rest, social interaction with other dogs and humans, and avoidance of toxins and stressful environments.

To further contribute to the dog’s health, a TCM practitioner would recommend some form of bodywork. Dog trainers and health-care practitioners can readily offer acu-pressure sessions to support the animal’s health – but so can you, the dog’s guardian! Go barefoot!

A health maintenance acupressure session
Acupressure is noninvasive, safe, and available to everyone. The theoretical basis of acupressure is the same as any other form of Traditional Chinese Medicine: Health is achieved by maintaining the natural balance of energy and other vital substances so that the body’s natural ability to defend itself will be strong. In TCM, life promoting energy is called chi, pronounced “chee,” and also written as “qi” or “ki.”

There are invisible energetic pathways, or channels, throughout the dog’s body. Along these energetic pathways there are specific pools of energy known as acupressure points, or “acupoints.” By using gentle thumb or two-finger pressure on these acupoints we can actually influence the flow of energy along the pathway.

Acupoints have particular energetic attributes. Some acupoints are known to enhance the flow of blood, while other acupoints reduce heat. The selection of an acupoint for inclusion in an acupressure session is based on the point’s energetic characteristics. Note that each acupoint can have several energetic attributes.

For a health maintenance acupressure session we want to select acupoints that have the particular characteristic that will support the smooth and harmonious flow of chi, Blood (in TCM, this means all nutrient-rich fluids), and other body fluids in the dog’s body. This session is like providing your dog with a general, overall tune-up in order to prevent any immune system weakness.

Acupoint selection
In the West, we have taken the liberty of naming acupoints after the energetic pathway or channel on which they are located, as well as numbering them. Each of the major pathways is named after a specific organ system to which it is energetically related.

For instance, the first acupoint included in our health maintenance acupressure session is identified by Western TCM practitioners as Large Intestine 4. The translation of the Chinese name for this acupoint is “Joining Valley,” which is more poetic and descriptive since LI 4 is located on the top-side of the webbing of the dog’s dewclaw. The webbing sort of looks like a joining valley, doesn’t it? If the dog’s dewclaw has been removed, just place your thumb or fingers on top of where it was.

Some of the energetic characteristics of Large Intestine 4 (LI 4) are that it tonifies (i.e., increases the energy of) protective or defensive chi while facilitating the smooth flow of chi throughout the dog’s entire body.

Large Intestine 11 (LI 11) is the next acupoint selected for this acupressure session. LI 11 is known to facilitate the flow of chi and Blood, plus it invigorates Blood, thus improving the circulation of nutrients. The translation of the Chinese name is “Crooked Pond” and it is located in the cubital crease of the dog’s elbow.

288

Stomach 36 (St 36) is a very powerful point that has many energetic characteristics and it is selected for this session because it is one of the most “tonifying” (enhancing) acupoints on the body. St 36 is used to restore collapsed chi, build defensive chi, and defuse pathogenic factors. Its name, “Leg 3 Miles,” refers to the energetic properties this point provides, that is, even if exhausted, by stimulating St 36, the animal’s legs can go another 3 miles.

We need to address the spirit of the dog in this session, too. Governing Vessel 14 is known to calm the spirit and clear the mind. Additionally, GV 14 regulates and facilitates the flow of chi. The point is located on the dorsal midline in the depression at the base of the dog’s neck where there really is a “Big Vertebra” for which it is named.

Most dogs love acupressure on the next point, Bai Hui. It is a traditional point for animals in particular. It is known to distribute Liver chi, which helps regulate the emotions, while it warms and restores collapsed yang energy. Located on the dorsal midline at the sacrum – where it feels flat between the hips, the Bai Hui point is translated from the Chinese as “Point of 100 Meetings” is also known as the dog’s “Heavens Gate.” One explanation for calling it “Heaven’s Gate” for the dog is that the dog’s sacrum is the closest to heaven when he is eating and that’s when he is in heaven!

By placing your thumb, or two fingers, or even scratching on each of these five acupoints bilaterally (on both the sides of the dogs) in turn, you will be able to support your dog’s immune system by balancing his energy and strengthening his body’s natural ability to defend itself against illness. Focusing on health gives your dog real strength.

 

-Amy Snow and Nancy Zidonis are the authors of The Well-Connected Dog: A Guide to Canine Acupressure, Acu-Cat: A Guide to Feline Acupressure, and Equine Acupressure: A Working Manual. They founded Tallgrass Animal Acupressure Institute, which offers a practitioner certificate program and training programs worldwide, plus books, meridian charts, and videos. Contact them or purchase these products at (888) 841-7211 or www.animalacupressure.com.

Canine Pain Management

0

By Randy Kidd, DVM, PhD Pain may be the most enigmatic of all the disease symptoms of man or beast. It is a sensation we all have experienced at one time or another and in varying degrees. But, few of us can explain adequately how a particular pain feels, fewer still can give a reasonable explanation for why pain occurs; and despite all the recent scientific research that has gone into pain, we still have a minimal understanding for how it occurs – or truthfully, for how to consistently prevent or alleviate it. Now, couple all this with the fact that we are dealing with pain in an animal who can’t talk to us, who can’t tell us where or when or how it hurts, and we have further compounded the entire equation.

At its essence, pain is a language that says something is wrong. Ordinary or acute pain is a barometer of tissue health; much like an automobile’s warning system, it raises an alarm whenever something has penetrated the protective shield. Pain is a daily reminder that we and our best buddies are little more than a fragile collection of cells and fluids that can easily be pierced, burned, torn, or broken. Pain sensors occur in most organs of the body – from bone to skin, from nose to tail, and from the gut to the muscles, tendons, and ligaments. Some areas of the body are highly innervated with pain sensors – the areas around joints, for example, and areas that surround vital organs. Other areas, such as a dog’s foot pads, are relatively free of pain sensors. Anatomy of pain Nearly all areas of the body are supplied with pain receptors – actually, sensory neurons. These neurons are activated by inputs that are often very specific for the receptor involved – receptors geared to respond to cold, heat, or tissue damage, for example. Some receptors are more attuned to feeling somatic pain that originates on the skin or deeper in the musculoskeletal system. Other receptors respond to visceral pains that result from inflammation, compression, or stretching of the chest, abdominal, or pelvic viscera. Pain scientists have further defined pain receptors as being nociceptive (pain caused by an injury to body tissues), neuropathic (from abnormalities in nervous system), and psychogenic (pain that is related to emotional or psychogenic concerns). The important part of all this is to understand that there are many kinds of pain; each kind of pain feels different; and each kind of pain will require a slightly different form of therapy. After one or more of the pain receptors have been stimulated, the resulting sensation travels to the spinal cord where the pain messages release chemicals (neurotransmitters). These neurotransmitters activate other nerve cells in the spinal cord, which then processes the information and transmits it up to the brain. Not all pain messages reach the brain. Some are filtered at the level of the spinal cord where they encounter specialized nerve cells, called “gate keepers.” Strong pain messages, such as when an animal touches a hot stove, open the “gate” to wide open, letting the message take an express route to the brain. Weak pain messages, however, such as from a minor scratch, may be filtered out or blocked by the gate. We can affect the gate by altering the messages on the nerve fibers that transmit touch. For example, rubbing or heat decreases the transmission of pain signals. In addition, some of the pain killers, natural and otherwise, work by altering the way the gate opens or filters painful stimuli. Pain messages can also be intensified in the spinal cord where certain nerve cells can act to “wind up” or “sensitize” the pain input so it has more impact on the brain. A recent injury creates an area of hypersensitivity in the area surrounding the trauma that helps to transmit a heightened pain perception to the brain; perhaps this acts as a protective mechanism that tells the body to try to prevent any further damage from occurring at the site of the trauma. At the same time that all of this modulation of pain is going on, the instigator of the pain (a splinter, for example) may be causing local inflammation, and the products of inflammation cause more pain and swelling. Examples of inflammatory agents include bradykinin, several of the prostaglandins, and at least one of the enzymes that synthesize prostaglandins, cyclooxygenase 2 (Cox-2). The pain and swelling of inflammation may also act as a protective mechanism by isolating the injury, and the increased blood flow to the area speeds healing. Once the pain message reaches the brain, it interacts with nerve cells there, and these reactions can either subdue the pain or ratchet up the animal’s perception of the pain. There are numerous sites in the brain where pain is processed, including the reticular formation (which is responsible for producing an increase in heart and respiratory rates and elevation of blood pressure), and the thalamus and cerebral cortex, where conscious awareness of pain occurs. The brain contains natural painkillers, including endorphins and enkephalins, which diminish the pain messages. But the animal’s emotional or psychological state may cause him to perceive the pain at a higher level. Consider the dog who once had a painful experience at the vet’s office. The next visit, because the dog has been anticipating more pain from the moment he walks in the door, he screams bloody murder at the mere sight of the needle. Chronic pain All the above describes acute pain; chronic pain has a slightly different pattern. Chronic pain is any pain that persists beyond the time expected for an injury or illness to heal. With chronic pain, no longer can the pain be viewed as the symptom of another disease, but as an illness unto itself. Any pain that has persisted for six months or longer is considered to be chronic. Chronic pain may cause the same sensations as acute pain – jabbing, throbbing, stinging, burning, sharp, dull, tingling, or aching. (While we can’t be certain dogs can perceive pain as we do, their reactions to it indicate that they probably do.) Further, pain may be constant or it may come and go. Chronic pain often accompanies chronic diseases such as arthritis, cancer, diabetes, or some skin conditions, but long-term pain may also stem from the aftereffects of an accident, infection, or surgery. In addition, each and every critter (including each human) has his or her personal ability to tolerate pain. There are two terms used to describe the way an individual feels and responds to pain: Pain threshold is that point where we feel the sensation of pain; pain tolerance is that point where we feel we must remove ourselves from the source of the pain. Now, while the pain threshold may be relatively constant, an individual’s ability to tolerate pain is dependent on many factors. Different pain stimuli may affect an individual in different ways. Someone who can stoically leave his hand in ice water for long periods, for example, may want to scream from the pain of a minor needle prick. And, that same person may have “good” days and “bad” days – some days he can endure needle pricks with almost no sensation; other days are his “scream at the needle” days. Dogs are exactly the same. Some are pain tolerant for one type of pain, while that same dog will go absolutely nutty over another type of pain. And as individuals, they can have their good (stoic) days and their bad (wimpy) days. No one knows quite why this happens in humans or dogs, but added emotions – fear, depression, anxiety, for example – may have something to do with a lowered pain tolerance. Further, the very concept of pain and how we and our pets deal with it is related to the culture we were reared in, our gender, environmental factors, and the pain being suffered by others nearby. Certain dog breeds are known for their stoicism under pain and others wilt at the mere thought of pain. In humans, men and women are apparently very different when it comes to pain tolerance, but this has not yet been shown in dogs. Experimental evidence from trials on mice show that brain waves of those mice that were sitting placidly in a cage nearby, closely mirror the brain waves of the mice that were in obvious pain. Empathetic pain is apparently a very real phenomenon. Dogs do associate past painful experiences with the environment where they occurred, which is why the vet’s office may not be one of their favorite places. I have found, though, that we can create a holistic and comfortable environment, even in a vet clinic where many of the dog’s previous experiences were painful. All it takes is a soft rug to sit on instead of the cold metal tabletop, and perhaps some calming aromatherapy or flower essences added to the environment. Furthermore, animals who have experienced pain relief from past acupuncture or chiropractic treatments seem to be the most calm and accepting patients I have ever seen. One more point: animals definitely react to the way their caretakers are acting, and if the caretaker seems to be overly concerned, his dog will respond in kind. Remember that emotions, even emotions of the folks or animals that are nearby, can alter pain receptors and pain pathways to make the pain seem worse. The calmer the caretaker remains, the calmer – and more pain free – the dog. Aftereffects of pain Pain does not end with the pin prick; it is one of the primary stressors within the body. Pain interacts with and affects almost all body systems: musculoskeletal, immune, hormonal, and even the arrangement of the nerves themselves. Pain disrupts normal function. A primary example here is that any pain of the muscles, joints, or bones will affect the gait and comfortable posture of the affected individual. Gastrointestinal pain may alter intestinal motility and/or the pain may change the amount or kind of digestive enzymes being supplied to the gut. And a normally balanced hormonal output can be altered by pain. Any kind of pain, even minor pain, can be disruptive to normal sleep patterns. Loss of sleep, coupled with the anxiety of not knowing what is going on with one’s body often leads to depression. While I’m not sure we can say dogs suffer from true depression as we understand it, they can certainly have the appearance of a “depressed” animal when they are in pain. Chronic pain of any segment of the musculoskeletal system may lead to compensation. Out of necessity, wild animals are particularly adept at accepting pain, learning how to compensate for this pain, and moving on so they can perform the functions (however limited these functions become) that keep them alive. Four-legged animals thus quickly learn how walk and run on three legs to avoid putting pressure on the one sore leg. This compensatory gait is beneficial early on, but if it lasts long enough, the body begins to form a fibrous (and eventually bony) protective shield that spans over the sore joint. In addition, the animal’s patterns of posture and gait will be altered, and these alterations may occur far away from the original site of pain. As an example, a dog’s sore hind leg may cause it to bend his neck to create a balance that reduces the painful pressure on the sore leg. Animal chiropractors are well aware of how compensation often affects areas of the body that are far away from the initial site of the injury, and chiropractic adjustments are often necessary at the “faraway” site as well as at the site of the injury. Recognizing pain Symptoms that may indicate your dog is in pain include: • Behavioral changes. Licking and yawning are signs that a dog is nervous. Dogs who hurt do not want to be picked up, or even be touched, so they may lick their lips or yawn whenever you or anyone else tries to approach them. Dogs in pain are typically restless. If they can move without pain – for example, after a painful surgery – they will be up and down, up and down; they pace; they can’t sleep; and they can’t seem to get comfortable in any one position.

Some dogs will want to hide from any contact that might possibly hurt, and they may become aggressively grouchy to avoid that contact. Fear biting is common with dogs that hurt. Other animals may whine and want to be constantly held. All these behaviors are a result of the animal being out of control of its own body – a forerunner to becoming depressed, mentally and physically. • Abnormal gait or posture. Pain anywhere in the feet, joints, muscles, tendons, ligaments, or spinal column may cause the dog to have a noticeable limp. However, dogs are so adept at compensating for the pain (see above), it may be difficult to detect an abnormal gait pattern. Pain may also be detected by observing a stiffness or reluctance to move or rise from sleeping, or when climbing stairs or trying to jump onto the couch or bed. Pained animals may stand off center (trying to ease the pressure from the painful leg), carry their head or tail off center, or sit or lie down (or get up) only on one side of their body. Animals with hip or knee pain may “bunny hop” (a gait of the hind legs that looks like, well, like a bunny hopping), or they may “puppy sit” – a posture where they sit on their butts with hind legs extended to one side. • Vocalization. How an animal “talks” about his pain is perhaps the most variable of any of his symptoms. Some animals will not vocalize, no matter how much pain they are in. (These are the dogs we typically say have a high pain threshold. In reality, these “stoics” likely still feel the pain, but they have a high tolerance to that pain.) Other dogs tell you straight away they are in pain: whining, crying, moaning, groaning, yipping, growling, and/or howling. Again, the amount of verbal complaining you hear from the dog depends on the individual, not necessarily on the amount of pain he is experiencing. • Other pain symptoms. Animals who are experiencing abdominal pain are often reluctant to move. They may refuse to eat, and they may moan or bite at their abdomens or flanks. They may also vomit or have diarrhea. Chest pains cause shortness of breath and possibly an increased heart rate, both of which result in an inability to exercise. Some dogs don’t want to eat when they hurt. Increased heart and respiratory rates are fairly consistent symptoms of pain, but they may not be evident to the casual observer. There are two symptoms of pain (and relief from pain) that my clients have taught me over the years. One has to do with the dog’s eyes. A dog’s caretaker often notices that a dog in evident pain has “cloudy” eyes, or eyes that seem “empty,” as if there is nothing behind them. In my practice, I used chiropractic adjustments, acupuncture, herbs, and nutritional supplements, and after treatments, the caretakers would often report that their dogs’ eyes “brightened up,” that they were clearer, or seemed to have more “energy.” The other is a comment I’ve heard frequently after I had begun treatment on a canine patient: “I’ve got my dog back!” Interestingly, as a practitioner, I was not often able to see any noticeable difference in the patient; the dog might have almost the same amount of limp as when I began therapy. But, there was something about the dog that the owner recognized – something that told him that the dog was more “normal” than before. Conventional pain medicine Analgesics are medicines that are meant to relieve pain. There are three major categories of conventional medicines for pain control: local anesthetics, opioids, and non-opioids. This last category includes a large class of non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDs), but also covers common but not fully understood drugs like acetaminophen and aspirin, which defy categorization. Local anesthetics provide pain relief by blocking pain stimuli from reaching the brain and spinal cord. They differ from the opioids and NSAIDs in that they abolish pain rather than diminish it. An example of a local anesthetic is lidocaine. The action of enkephalins and endorphins on pain receptors is the body’s intrinsic pain-suppressing system; it is the activity of these two hormones that makes the body feel good after jogging, sex, or an acupuncture treatment. Opioids (or opiates) bind to enkaphalin receptors along the pain pathways in the central nervous system, which effectively prevents the transmission of pain signals. Examples of opioids include morphine, codeine, methadone, Demerol, and Darvon. Most of the NSAIDs work by blocking the action of the pain-causing prostaglandins, and some of them achieve this by blocking the action of the prostaglandin-producing cyclooxygenase enzymes (Cox-1, 2, and 3). Examples of NSAIDs include ibuprofen and naproxen. Aspirin is considered by some to be an NSAID, but others disagree. While all these have been shown to be very effective, most of the time, there can be a tremendous variance among individuals. In fact, some of the analgesics may have an opposite effect on some individuals, actually causing more pain. In addition, each analgesic has a pretty potent list of adverse side effects. Not long ago, on an electronic bulletin board about veterinary complementary and alternative medicine, a number of veterinarians exchanged stories about their experiences with delayed healing for wounds or surgical incisions when the animal is given NSAIDs. In all cases, you will need to discuss with your veterinarian the potential risk/benefit ratio whenever you are choosing an analgesic for your dog. Natural pain relievers Fortunately, there are many alternative ways to approach pain control, and in my experience these are often not only less dangerous, they also can be more effective. As a general rule, alternative medicines take longer to act, and may not have the depth of activity that conventional medicines do. However, they are typically much safer to use, will not be addictive, and tend to have a much broader spectrum of activity – that is, they may help to relieve several kinds of pain, and they may also help alleviate some of the emotional components of pain as well as its physical aspects. Your holistic vet should be able to advise you on the best applications, dosages, and methods of use for the alternative forms of pain control. • Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM): Practitioners of TCM believe that pain is caused by a blockage of the flow of chi or “energy.” Thus when a joint hurts, for example, it is because the flow of chi is stuck there, causing pain. TCM uses acupuncture needles (and herbal remedies) to help re-create a normal flow of chi through areas of pain. In addition, acupuncture causes the release of enkephalins and endorphins, the body’s natural pain relievers. • Those who employ chiropractic believe that joints that are stuck – so that their normal range of motion has been altered – change the response of the pain receptors in the area, often causing pain. Also, a “stuck” spinal vertebrae that can’t move properly may also alter the pain messages being sent to the brain. Chiropractic adjustments are intended to restore the joint to its normal motion so that all nerve impulses are restored to normal. • I’ve had phenomenal results when using the combination of acupuncture and chiropractic for treating pain. The most dramatic results have come when treating musculoskeletal dysfunctions such as arthritis, but results when treating some deep or abdominal pains have also been very rewarding. • Homeopathy: One of the best of the natural pain medications, especially for bruises, sprains, or trauma to the eyes, is the homeopathic remedy Arnica. Hypericum, Bryonia, and Ruta are also excellent for many painful conditions. • There are several herbal remedies that have a long history of use for alleviating pain. Gastric pain may be eased with antispasmodics such as caraway, ginger, valerian, and wild yam. Willow bark contains the substance that is the active ingredient in aspirin. Herbal oats act as a nervine – a substance that balances the nervous system. Capsicum (red pepper) is an effective topical remedy for painful skin lesions, and it can be taken internally to help ease painful, arthritic joints. • Others: Supplements such as glucosamine, omega 3 and 6 fatty acids, B vitamins, inositol, and lipoic acid have proven beneficial for treating pain. It has been shown that glucosamine decreases the amount of NSAIDs needed to control pain in joint conditions, at least in humans, and it is likely that many of these supplements have similar beneficial properties. Don’t forget that there is almost always a mental or emotional component to pain, so calming herbs can be extremely helpful. Flower essence remedies are directed toward emotional distress. For example, the remedy Agrimony works well for the dog who appears to be distressed due to pain. And sometimes a calming aroma, such as lavender, wafted throughout dog’s resting places in the house, clears and calms the mind made nervous from pain. Conclusion There is evidence from medical research on humans that preventing pain is more productive than trying to stop it, that pain diminishes the body’s ability to heal, and that the recovery from any painful illness can be sped along with the addition of pain relievers. We have learned that beginning pain preventative therapy early, before the pain begins, is more effective than if we wait until the patient “tells” us he is in pain. We also know, because humans can talk to us and tell us, that any surgery and many chronic diseases are painful, including arthritis, diabetes, and certainly cancers. Some of these can be extremely painful. We know that severe pain can incite the inflammatory response and a stress reaction, which then induce the release of cortisol, diminish the immune response, induce tissue breakdown, and cause energy mobilization. Taken together, these and other responses to pain can actually shorten the patient’s lifespan as well as diminishing his remaining quality of life. And so, putting all this together, it just makes sense to begin pain control whenever there is the likelihood of pain (surgery, trauma, arthritis, cancers, etc.). We need to begin it early on and continue it as long as periodic reassessments indicate that pain may still be present. But in almost all cases, natural remedies are preferred – because they are non-addictive, likely to provide a broader spectrum of activity (reaching more pain mechanisms than conventional medicines, which are programmed to work at one site only), and there is no known rebound or tolerance effect (opiates, after prolonged use, may actually produce more pain rather than relieving it). Finally, and probably the most important, many of the natural remedies actually enhance healing, whereas conventional pain relievers typically retard the healing process. Examples here include acupuncture, which enhances the immune response; chiropractic, which returns joints to a more normal function, thus allowing the animal to move his joints and restore healing circulation and joint fluids; herbal remedies, which often contain healing antioxidants; and supplements (such as glucosamine), which help to regenerate joint cartilage. Having said all this, it is still important to use whatever pain reliever works. If you and your holistic vet feel that your dog needs a more potent analgesic, then by all means use it. Ongoing evaluation is most important, to help you determine which analgesic works best to relieve your dog’s pains. -Dr. Randy Kidd earned his DVM degree from Ohio State University and his PhD in Pathology/Clinical Pathology from Kansas State University. A past president of the American Holistic Veterinary Medical Association, he’s author of Dr. Kidd’s Guide to Herbal Dog Care and Dr. Kidd’s Guide to Herbal Cat Care.

Download the Full September 2006 Issue PDF

To continue reading this article or issue you must be a paid subscriber. Sign in
If you are logged in but cannot access this content, a) your subscription may have expired; b) you may have duplicate accounts (emails) in our system. Please check your account status here or contact customer service.

Subscribe to Whole Dog Journal

With your Whole Dog Journal order you’ll get:

  • Immediate access to this article and 20+ years of archives.
  • Recommendations for the best dog food for your dog.
  • Dry food, homemade diets and recipes, dehydrated and raw options, canned food and more.
  • Brands, formulations and ingredients all searchable in an easy-to-use, searchable database.

Plus, you’ll receive training and care guidance to keep your dog healthy and happy. You’ll feed with less stress…train with greater success…and know you are giving your dog the care he deserves.

Subscribe now and save 72%! Its like getting 8 issues free!

Already Subscribed?

Click Here to Sign In | Forgot your password? | Activate Web Access

WDJ Resources for Canine Health Problems

0

I think if I was a dog with a health problem, I would want to live with Mary Straus. A gifted researcher and devoted dog owner, Straus has the ability to climb mountains of medical journals and emerge with the key points that can make a difference in the diagnosis, care, and treatment of a sick or compromised dog. I’m thrilled to have her writing for WDJ. Straus’ article “Involuntary Urination” is a wealth of information about helping dogs with urinary incontinence.

One point that Mary didn’t mention in her article – probably because it seemed too obvious to her – was that you should never punish or even admonish your previously housetrained dog if you suddenly start finding puddles of urine in odd places in the house.

They are probably as mystified and horrified by the discovery of their leakage as you are. Dogs who mark their territory by lifting their legs and urinating on significant items or prominent places in the house – that’s a different problem, one we covered in “Permanent Markers?” in the April 2003 issue. But if there are wet spots in places where your dog has slept – on the couch, on his bed, or on your bed – you need to make an appointment with your veterinarian right away to diagnose the cause of the incontinence and find the best treatment for your dog.

I would imagine that most of us have been to a dog park at some time. That probably also means that most of us have been struck by some of the rude and perhaps dangerous behavior manifested by some dogs – and people! – at some dog parks. These hazards are usually outweighed, however, by the benefits of a safely contained venue for off-leash play and exercise. In “Dog Park Etiquette,” Pat Miller offers some basic rules of etiquette that, if observed by a majority of park-goers, could vastly improve the enjoyment and safety of all puppy playground visitors.

Last month, CJ Puotinen offered a wealth of information about helping your dog quickly heal his wounds. Not covered in that article were hot spots and lick granulomas, which she remedies in this issue. See “Accelerated Wound Healing.”

Instead of fixing problems, this month, animal acupressure experts Nancy Zidonis and Amy Snow tell us how to try to prevent health problems from arising in our dogs in the first place. Give the “acupressure for health maintenance” session described in “TCM Doctors” a try, and see if your dog seems brighter and feels better.

Finally, holistic veterinarian Randy Kidd discusses canine pain: what causes it, and most importantly, what dog owners can do about it. See “Canine Pain Management” for a world of information.

Before I moved my home and home-office, I put out a call to all my past and current writers for extra submissions, to help me accumulate articles for the editorial “bank,” as a buffer against having too little time to write myself. Champions that these writers are, the articles are starting to pour in. I look forward to presenting our readers with their combined fun, wisdom, innovative solutions, and depth of experience. Until then, stay cool!

Involuntary Urination

By Mary Straus

When my dog Popcorn woke up one morning many years ago in a puddle of urine, I panicked, certain that only a deadly illness could cause this perfectly housetrained dog to wet her bed. I rushed her to the vet, where he did a thorough physical exam and urinalysis. I can still remember the relief I felt when my vet told me it appeared to be a simple case of incontinence.

As it turns out, incontinence, which is defined as involuntary urination, is quite common in dogs, especially spayed females, where about one in five dogs (20 percent) is affected.

288

Estrogen responsive incontinence or hormonally responsive incontinence, commonly called spay incontinence, is the most frequent cause of involuntary urination in dogs. It can occur anywhere from immediately after spaying to 10 years later, with the average being around three years.

Low estrogen levels and other factors can lead to a weak bladder sphincter, resulting in anything from small urine drips to complete emptying of the bladder, usually while sleeping or resting. Leaking can happen daily or just periodically. Large breed dogs are more commonly affected than small breeds, and German Shepherds, Boxers, Spaniels, and Doberman Pinschers appear to be more at risk than other breeds.

A recent study showed that early spaying (before the first heat) reduced the chance of incontinence, from 18 percent to 9.7 percent in large breed dogs, but increased the severity when it occurred. It is possible that spaying midway between heat cycles may help prevent spay incontinence, but this is just speculation, as no studies have been done. Hormone-related incontinence can also affect neutered males, though much less commonly than females.

Incontinence can occur for many other reasons, including urinary tract infections, bladder stones, congenital structural defects (e.g., ectopic ureters), spinal cord disease, and excess water intake. Older dogs, overweight dogs, and dogs with neurological problems may develop a weak bladder sphincter. These causes of incontinence can affect dogs of both genders, whether intact or neutered.

When additional symptoms such as frequent urination, painful urination, trying to urinate without success, or blood in the urine are seen, then urinary tract infection (UTI) or stones (uroliths) are likely. Keep in mind that about 20 percent of UTIs will not show up on urinalysis alone, so it’s important to do a urine culture to rule out infection.

Neurological problems should be suspected when signs such as weakness in the rear, stumbling, or incoordination are present. Ectopic ureters are the most common cause of incontinence in young female dogs (under a year); they are uncommon in males.

Most causes of incontinence other than weak bladder sphincter can be identified from a urinalysis and urine culture, but sometimes it is necessary to see a specialist. Additional tests that can be done to find the cause of incontinence include X-rays or ultrasound to look for bladder stones or structural defects, dye contrast studies, and exploratory surgery.

In addition to being a problem for the owner who has to clean up after a leaky dog, incontinence can be very distressing to dogs who are housebroken, and can also lead to urinary tract infections, vaginitis, and sometimes skin ulcers caused by urine scald and licking.

Incontinence should be suspected as a contributing factor in dogs with recurrent bladder or vaginal infections. Incontinence aids such as doggie diapers and pads to protect furniture and dogs beds are available, but it’s very important to keep the dog clean and to get the incontinence under control, if at all possible. Baby wipes can be used to keep the skin clean, and will also soothe irritation, as does aloe vera gel. Use only those lotions that will not be a problem if a dog licks and ingests them.

Treatment
Treatment of incontinence is usually simple and effective. There are many different ways of treating incontinence, and the choice may depend on the cause. Phenylpropanolamine (PPA), a decongestant that helps to tighten the sphincter muscle, is the most commonly used treatment for incontinence in both male and female canines.

Spay incontinence can also be treated with estrogen supplements, usually in the form of DES (diethylstilbestrol), but estradiol, a more natural form of estrogen, can be used. Neutered males with hormonally caused incontinence may respond to monthly testosterone injections, though these can also lead to urine marking and an increase in aggressive behavior.

Ectopic ureters, where the tubes leading from the kidney do not properly connect to the bladder, require surgical correction. A new surgery using collagen injections is now available for incontinence that does not respond to any other form of treatment.

Natural treatments are frequently helpful for incontinence, once more serious conditions have been ruled out. Herbs, acupuncture, chiropractic treatment, and homeopathic remedies have each helped many dogs. Feeding a homemade diet can also make a difference.

Conventional treatment options
PPA (phenylpropanolamine) is the most commonly used veterinary treatment for incontinence in both male and female dogs. It is a decongestant that works by tightening the sphincter muscle from the bladder. PPA is effective in controlling incontinence in about 70 percent of dogs who try it, with improvement in most of the rest. A veterinary PPA product called Proin comes in chewable tablets made for dogs, and is also available in liquid form.

PPA must be given daily, usually two or three times a day, as its effect lasts only 8 to 12 hours. It can be used on an as-needed basis for dogs who have only occasional problems with incontinence. Most dogs tolerate PPA without any problems, but side effects can include irritability, nervousness, panting, restlessness, rapid heartbeat, and excitability. PPA should not be given to dogs with high blood pressure or heart disease. PPA has been removed from over-the-counter human products due to an increased risk of stroke, but this side effect is not a concern with dogs.

DES (diethylstilbestrol), a synthetic form of estrogen, can be used to treat spay incontinence. It is given daily for the first week, and then dosage is dropped to once or twice a week. It’s important when using this treatment to experiment and find the lowest possible dose that will work to control the incontinence, once it has been found to be effective. Estrogen supplements are considered relatively safe, but in rare cases they can cause bone marrow suppression leading to anemia that does not go away when the treatment is stopped. Higher doses and non-DES forms of estrogen are more likely to cause this effect. DES is readily available thru compounding pharmacies.

PPA can be combined with DES when needed to control difficult cases. Imipramine (Tofranil), a tricyclic anti-depressant that causes urine retention in some patients, is occasionally combined with PPA for dogs who do not respond to other medications.

A natural estrogen supplement called Genesis Resources Canine Incontinence Support is available for treating spay incontinence, as are ovarian glandular products. I have heard reports of each of these working for some dogs.

Herbal treatment options
There are several natural treatment options for incontinence, including a number of different herbs. Corn silk is the herb most commonly used to treat incontinence. It can be given in capsules, brewed into tea, or made into a tincture.

Beth Teffner of Ohio has a four-year-old Doberman, Inga, who was rescued from a puppy mill. Inga has spay incontinence, which Teffner has treated successfully with corn silk. “We first tried giving her Proin, but it made her cranky,” says Teffner. “Inga now gets three capsules of corn silk (425 mg) a day, two in the morning and one in the evening, opened and sprinkled over her food. She leaks only when extremely tired. She is dry 90 to 95 percent of the time.”

Teas made from corn silk (and other herbs) may be more effective than capsules. To make an herbal tea, add 1 tablespoon of fresh or dried herb per 2 cups of boiling water. Give 1 teaspoon of strong tea per 20 pounds of body weight, twice a day. Other herbs that can help with incontinence include raspberry leaf, horsetail, saw palmetto, nettle root, couch grass, uva ursi, agrimony, marshmallow, and plantain.

Glycerin tinctures (also known as glycerites) containing these herbs in any combination are another alternative. Give 12 to 20 drops of glycerite per 20 pounds of body weight, twice a day.

There are also commercial herbal blends made for dogs with incontinence. Products that have worked for some include Azmira’s Kidni Kare, Animals’ Apawthecary’s Tinkle Tonic, and Vetri-Science Bladder Strength for Dogs.

Traditional Chinese medicine (TCM) also offers herbal combinations for controlling incontinence. Chinese herbs helped Ben, a 13-year-old Border Collie owned by Laura Miller of Lovetteville, Virginia, after the dog started leaking urine about six months ago. The leaking began with a urinary tract infection, but continued after the infection was gone.

“While Proin controlled the problem, it seemed to make him grouchy to the point where the other dogs in the house were avoiding him,” says Miller. “With the help of a veterinarian who practices both conventional and holistic medicine, we were able to switch him to a Chinese herbal combination that has been as effective as the Proin, without the grumpiness.”

288

The formula her vet prescribed is called Sang Piao Xiao San – Mantis Formula 524, from Sun Ten. (Note: Chinese herbal formulas are typically custom-prescribed for the unique needs of the patient, rather than indicated for specific sumptoms. Your veterinary TCM practitioner may prescribe a different Chinese herbal forumula for the same condition in your dog.)

Diet can make a difference
Some dogs stop being incontinent when all grains are removed from their diet. Maizey, a 12-year-old Bull Terrier owned by Shari Mann of San Francisco, is one of those dogs. “Soon after she was spayed, Maizey started dribbling, especially at night or when taking a long nap,” Mann says.

“Maizey has eaten a raw, grain-free diet since 12 weeks of age. The only grains she ever got were in my home-baked cookies made from liver and organic wheat. I stopped giving her the cookies, in an effort to help with a yeasty ear problem. To my utter surprise and delight, not only did her ears clear up, but her dribbles also stopped. I did not believe it. Just to be sure, I again gave her one cookie a day for two weeks, and she began dribbling again.” Maizey has been off all grains, and free of incontinence, for 10 years.

Judi Rothenberg’s Doberman Lucy is another dog who responded to the elimination of grains from her diet. Although DES was effective in controlling Lucy’s spay incontinence, Judi preferred something natural. “I give Lucy corn silk (¼ teaspoon twice a day), but removing grains from her diet helped the most. As long as I remember not to give her treats with grains in them, Lucy no longer needs the DES.”

Sometimes, just a homemade diet can help, even if it includes grains. Judy Coates of Pennsylvania had two male beagles, Guillaume and Darwin, who were neutered in April 2003, when Guillaume was 10 and Darwin was 9 years old.

“At the time of neutering they were eating a high quality dry food,” Judy says. “After a few months they started leaking while they were relaxed or sleeping. I increased the amount of fresh food I added to their kibble, and eventually began feeding all home-cooked meals at the beginning of 2005. As soon as they started to get fresh food, their water intake dropped and the leaking went away. Even now, with Guillaume testing positive for Cushing’s and drinking more water than he did, he still has no problem with leaking.”

When preparing homemade diets, keep in mind that certain vegetables, such as parsley and celery, have diuretic properties and may increase leaking.

Other natural treatments
Incontinence may respond to alternative treatments such as chiropractic adjustments and acupuncture. Acupuncture may be particularly effective if done on the spay incision.

Maggie is a 10-year-old Vizsla owned by Maisie Griffiths in Canberra, Australia, and fed a raw, grain-free diet. “Maggie began to have some episodes of incontinence about a year ago, just dribbles that only occurred in her sleep,” says Griffiths.

“The leaking increased at the same time that she began to show more obvious signs of the effects of her spondylosis. My vet is also a chiropractor; we began to give Maggie chiropractic treatments. The urine dribbles turned into floods for a few days following each treatment and then returned to dribbles. We continued the treatments as her movement was improving. Gradually, the incontinence following each treatment completely disappeared, along with the original dribbles.” Griffiths reports that Maggie now moves better than she did two years ago and has no incontinence at all.

Homeopathic remedies, both individual and combinations, have helped many dogs. Jo Wells of Euless, Texas, has a 10-year-old Rottweiler mix also named Maggie who was diagnosed with spay incontinence about a year ago.

Wells says, “We tried corn silk capsules with no success. The homeopathic formula Leaks No More from Homeopet worked for us, but I quit using it because of the expense. It comes in such a small bottle and using it three times a day it only lasted about 10 days for a large dog. I switched to Herbasaurs Bedwetting homeopathic formula made for children. It has worked for us and a bottle lasts me for three to four weeks. I just put it in her food and she scarfs it right down.”

Other homeopathic remedies recommended for dogs with incontinence are Sepia, Solidago (goldenrod), and Hyland’s EnurAid.

A combination of treatments
For some dogs, the treatment isn’t so simple. Mindy Fenton of Southern California adopted a two-year-old Chow also named Maggie who leaked urine continuously. Maggie was diagnosed with an ectopic ureter using a dye test. Fenton explains, “The ureter was attached to the kidney but at the distal end it emptied right out instead of going into the bladder. The vets said it was probably genetic. Maggie could hold no urine; her bladder never filled. She would squat and try to pee but she also constantly leaked.”

Maggie required surgery to correct this defect. The surgery was successful and allowed Maggie to urinate normally, but she continued to have problems with dribbling during any kind of stress. “The specialist had told me at the time of surgery that it is common for dogs with an ectopic ureter to not be fully continent post-surgery. Within a couple of months after surgery, Mags was greatly improved but she would still leak from time to time, and the leaking made her susceptible to bladder infections.”

Fenton tried DES, which didn’t help at all, but she had success using Proin. She preferred more natural methods, however. “I used a number of supplements, including vitamin C, cranberry capsules (which help prevent bladder infections), and Animals’ Apawthecary’s Tinkle Tonic. I would make my own tincture using corn silk in an alcohol (brandy) base and I added uva ursi. I tried adding corn silk directly to her food, but that did nothing. Switching to a raw, grain-free diet helped quite a bit. Mags was nine years old when I made the switch.”

This approach worked most of the time, but under stress, the dribbles would return. “When she would drip, I would give her PPA, twice a day, which I usually had to do only for about three days at a time. I also used PPA as a preventative when I knew there was going to be stress and thus a high likelihood that she would drip.”

Incontinence secondary to other diseases
Sometimes incontinence is secondary to other disorders, so treatment is directed at the primary disease. Any illness that causes the dog to drink excess amounts of water, including diabetes mellitus, kidney disease, liver disease, Cushing’s disease (hyperadrenocorticism), and more, can lead to incontinence. Most of these can be ruled out by blood tests. Certain drugs can also cause increased water intake.

Kathy Moffett of Le Roy, Illinois, has a Brittany Spaniel named Abby who began having major incontinence issues associated with drinking lots of water at age 11. “Abby turned out to have a rare condition called diabetes insipidus,” Moffett explains. “The only symptoms of this condition are drinking lots of water and increased urination, including problems with incontinence.”

The treatment for DI involves injections twice a day with desmopressin, which controls the excess drinking and also the incontinence. (Note that there is no relationship between diabetes insipidus and the more common diabetes mellitus. See “Yo Adrenals!” July 2006.)

My own dog Nattie developed some incontinence when she was diagnosed with kidney disease and put on subcutaneous fluids. I did not give her medication for this, but solved the problem by getting up during the night to let her out one extra time, and by using washable waterproof pads under her bedding to protect the beds and furniture.

I found the mattress pads and liners made for children’s beds to be the most cost-effective and reliable way to keep dog beds and other places she liked to sleep dry. You can also find waterproof liners and pads made for dogs and dog beds in pet supply stores and catalogs. Diaper garments made for both female and male dogs can also be purchased.

Incontinence has also been known to develop following corticosteroid treatment. Steroids such as prednisone cause excess drinking, which may lead to temporary incontinence, but sometimes, the incontinence continues even after the steroids are stopped.

Steroids also suppress the immune system, which can lead to increased risk of urinary tract infections. In addition, steroids can push a dog with a tendency toward diabetes into exhibiting symptoms. It makes sense to have a urinalysis done if your dog develops incontinence following the use of prednisone.

Dawn Lange of Duluth, Minnesota, has a retired racing Greyhound named Sly who experienced problems following the use of prednisone.

“Sly’s incontinence started at about eight years old, almost immediately after receiving multiple steroid injections for pannus.” says Lange. “It took about six months before the incontinence gradually stopped. None of the treatments that are used for spay incontinence worked. We chose to diaper her during the problem period, using Female Pet Bloomers from Drs. Foster & Smith, with a maxipad inside.”

Surgical options
Once in a while, you may have a dog who does not respond to any of the traditional or natural treatments for incontinence, or who cannot take them for various reasons. In those cases, surgery may help.

One older procedure for female dogs, colposuspension, surgically tacks the vagina to the belly wall, compressing the urethra.

Colposuspension surgery has been shown to be effective in curing incontinence in 40 to 55 percent of dogs initially, though many relapse within the first year. Most dogs show improvement, which is often increased when medications are added back in. Male dogs can have a similar procedure called a cystourethropexy.

288

Collagen injections (performed under anesthesia) into the area around the urethra offer a newer and more effective surgical method for controlling incontinence in female dogs. Studies show these injections to be completely successful in up to 75 percent of the dogs who receive them, with most of the rest improved and many of those responding to the use of PPA after surgery when they did not before.

The major drawback to this approach is cost, which can run more than $1,000 – and the treatment may have to be repeated, as the body removes the collagen over time. Retreatment with collagen is usually easier and may be less expensive. The average duration of effectiveness was 17 months in one study, though the effects can last more than five years. It has few side effects, usually only transient problems with urination immediately after surgery in a small percentage of dogs. There is a current study of this procedure being done at Purdue University.

Beth Teffner is involved with Hand Me Down Dobes, a rescue group in Columbus, Ohio, that recently took in a two-year-old Doberman named Reese. Surrendered by her original owner due to incontinence, Reese would leak urine while standing and walking around, even immediately after urinating. Exploratory surgery did not find a cause.

The group contacted Ohio State, where the collagen injection procedure is being studied on Dobermans. “Fortunately, our group had an angel who donated money, and Reese has had the injections. She did not need additional surgery and is leak-free,” Teffner says. “She is now in a foster home waiting to be adopted.” (If you can help, contact Hand Me Down Dobes at 614-470-2851 or www.handmedowndobes.org.)

Experimental treatment
A recent report from Europe involves the use of use of GnRH (gonadotropin releasing hormone) analogs to control spay incontinence that does not respond to traditional treatments.

In one small pilot study, seven of 11 dogs treated this way once or twice were cured for periods ranging from two months to two years, with all but one of the remaining dogs becoming continent when PPA was added. This treatment is still experimental and has not yet been approved, though GnRH is used with dogs for other purposes involving reproduction.

Be persistent
With the many different treatments available for incontinence, it’s important to keep trying various remedies when needed. Many people try a number of different remedies before finding the one that works best for their dogs. Don’t give up when your dog does not respond to the first or second remedy you try.

When natural treatments and traditional medications do not work, look for other possible causes, and if needed, consider surgical options. Almost all dogs with incontinence can be successfully treated with persistence.

 

-Mary Straus does research on canine health and nutrition topics as an avocation. She is the owner of the DogAware.com website. She lives in the San Francisco Bay Area with her dog Piglet, a 14-year-old Chinese Shar-Pei.

Dog Park Etiquette

[Updated January 16, 2018]

Depending on who you talk to, dog parks are either the greatest invention since microwave ovens or the devil incarnate – either the perfect place to exercise and socialize your dog, or the best environment in which to traumatize your dog, make him dog-reactive, and perhaps get him killed. We’re told that perception is reality, but these two perceptions are worlds apart. Which one is right?

They both are. Your local dog park can be a terrific place to take your dog, provided it is well-constructed, well-maintained, and well-monitored. It can also be you and your dog’s worst nightmare. What determines which perception will be your reality?

In a word, it’s all about etiquette. If you understand the rules of dog park etiquette – and if other park users also understand and follow the same rules, you can be in dog park heaven. When etiquette goes by the wayside, you have a classic recipe for disaster.

dog park

Create a Dog Park Culture

It only takes one renegade to spoil a park for other users. The best dog parks are those whose users band together to create a sense of community, who use education, peer pressure and, when necessary, call in the appropriate authorities to help regulate those who won’t follow the rules of etiquette and common sense.

One of the early dog parks, Remington Dog Park, created in Sausalito, California, in the early 1990s, initially held informal wine-and-cheese parties every Friday evening, to encourage camaraderie, a sense of community, and to create a social opportunity for humans as well as their dogs. The group developed a strong culture and close friendships. Park regulars were thus able to work together to monitor dog park behavior, educate new users, and keep park problems to a manageable minimum.

Most of the early dog parks were public/municipal parks – owned and operated by local government, with park upkeep and management sometimes delegated to a users’ group, sometimes performed by the parks and recreation department, sometimes the animal services (control) division, sometimes even the local police department.

More and more communities across the country are developing new municipal “bark parks” as dog owners lobby for recreational facilities for humans and their dogs and insist on claiming their share of local park resources.

In addition, there are a growing number of privately owned dog parks where owners pay a membership fee for the privilege of sharing dog park play in a more controlled environment. Private parks are often more closely supervised, dogs are more carefully screened before being granted privileges, and rules more promptly and effectively enforced.

Whether private or public, rules of dog park etiquette generally fall into three categories: Appropriate dog behavior, appropriate human behavior, and rules of engagement – what to do when someone doesn’t follow the rules.

Common Dog Park Rules

Park rules will vary from one location to the next. Rules should be posted prominently near park entrances; if they’re not, ask about them prior to bringing your dog to the park. Listed below are many of the dog park rules you are likely to find. For more rule suggestions, see the 2018 version of this list.

1. Dogs over the age of 6 months must be spayed/neutered – or, alternatively, no females in season allowed.

2. All dogs must be currently licensed. • No unsupervised dogs. Dogs may not be left unattended.

3. Owners must clean up after dogs. (So, owners must really watch their dogs, to be able to clean up after them!)

4. Aggressive dogs are not allowed. Do not bring dogs with a history of aggression toward dogs or humans. Dogs who demonstrate aggressive behaviors toward dogs or humans in the park should be removed from the park and not return.

5. Children under the age 8 (or some other designated age) should not enter the off-leash area of the park. Alternatively, children under the age of (designated age) must be directly supervised at all times in the park. No running or loud or rough play allowed.

6. No more than three dogs per person (or other designated number).

7. No choke, prong, or shock collars. All extra gear (harnesses, collars other than plain buckle collar) should be removed before entering park.

8. Keep dogs on-leash until you enter off-leash area. If a separate area is provided for small dogs, please honor the size restrictions.

9. No smoking or eating within the fenced dog park area.

10. Be polite and considerate of other park users.

What is Appropriate Dog Park Behavior?

Not all dogs are good candidates for dog-park play. A dog park is not the appropriate place for dogs who have serious behavior problems in relation to other dogs or humans. Dogs with these kinds of “issues” should be carefully socialized in environments that are far more controlled than a dog park while their owners do behavior modification work. Consider the following carefully before taking your dog through the gate into your local dog park.

• Dog-park dogs should be friendly and outgoing, without being overbearing, obnoxious, or bullying.

• Your dog should be reasonably confident and social. Those who are fearful, aggressive, or reactive are not appropriate for dog parks.

• Basic good manners are a park prerequisite. Your dog should not body-slam, mouth, jump on kids, or mark (leg-lift) humans in the park, nor should he jump into laps of random sitting humans without invitation.

• Your dog should be responsive to basic cues – at least “come when called,” “sit,” and “leave it/off,” so you can get control of him if necessary, and prevent him from harassing others.

• Barking should be kept to a reasonable level, both for the comfort of other park users as well as nearby neighbors. Occasional barks of joy are acceptable. Non-stop barking of a “fun police” type dog is not, nor is barking with more serious aggressive intent.

• Only healthy dogs should visit dog parks. Obviously, communicable diseases and parasites are unacceptable as these can affect and infect other dogs. Structural un-soundnesses that can cause pain (hip dysplasia, arthritis, etc.) are a high risk factor for causing aggression when a dog is hurt or stressed by the anticipation of being hurt.

Human Behavior at Dog Parks

This is even longer than the dog behavior list. We humans are responsible for our dogs’ behaviors, hence we play a critically important role in making sure proper etiquette is adhered to, by our dogs as well as ourselves.

• As a new park user, visit the park without your dog to observe park culture and practices. Arrange to take your dog to the park the first time at non-peak use hours to allow both of you to acquaint yourselves with the environment without the stress and distraction of multiple dogs.

dog park

• Obey all posted park rules, even if you disagree with them.

• Don’t bring small children inside the dog park. Occasionally, dogs who are running fast in a chasing game will accidentally run into a grown-up, sometimes even knocking down a full-sized man. Imagine what could happen to your toddler – and that’s just from an accident, not even from the attention of a large dog with a strong prey drive who has never been socialized to small children!

• Limit your use of toys or food treats as necessary to avoid dog/dog conflict. This may vary depending on the dog population at the park during any given visit.

• Keep puppies under the age of four months at home. They aren’t fully immunized yet, so are at higher risk for contracting diseases, and are very vulnerable to being traumatized by another dog’s inappropriate behavior.

• Be harshly realistic about your dog’s potential as a park playmate. The dog park is not the appropriate place to work on fixing your dog’s behavior problems.

• Watch park play for several minutes before you take your dog in to be sure there are no dogs present who are inappropriate play partners for your dog.

• Remove your dog’s leash as soon as you enter the off-leash area. Mixing on-leash and off-leash dogs can cause stress in the leashed dogs, which may lead to aggression.

• Supervise your dog’s play. This is not the time to bury your nose in the latest copy of WDJ or your favorite novel. Be prepared to interrupt inappropriate play – whether your dog is the perpetrator or the victim.

• If someone complains about your dog’s behavior, be prepared to consider his perspective before defending your dog or just blowing off the complaint. Apologize if your dog has been inappropriate, and be willing to leave the park if your dog is being too rough. If you really disagree with the person’s assessment of your dog’s behavior, ask someone you respect for her honest and frank opinion.

• Be polite, even if someone else’s dog is inappropriate and the owner isn’t controlling her dog or is unwilling to take her own dog out of the park.

• Keep the dog-human ratio manageable. A standard recommendation is no more than two or three dogs per human – assuming those two to three dogs can be reasonably managed by one human!

• Remember: not all dogs enjoy playing with others. Be willing to leave if your dog isn’t having a good time. Some dogs enjoy a small circle of intimate friends but aren’t keen on crowds. Some enjoy park play as youngsters, but less so as they mature. If you love going to the park but your dog doesn’t, go without him! Go with a friend who has a more gregarious canine, or go dogless and socialize with other owners.

• Avoid disciplining another park user’s dog. If you must use force to break up a fight, so be it, but do not attempt to “punish” someone else’s dog once the conflict is ended. If you find another dog’s behavior unacceptable, take your own dog out of the park rather than “correcting” someone else’s dog.

• Honor the posted dog-park hours. They are set for a reason – often for your own safety, or to maintain peace and harmony with nearby neighbors.

• Of course, as always, clean up after your dog religiously both inside and outside the park. Be willing to clean up unclaimed piles of dog poo from visitors who don’t know or don’t follow the rules of dog-park etiquette, or perhaps who just didn’t notice their dog leaving a fecal souvenir.

Rules of Dog Park Engagement

As Patrick Swayze says in the movie, “Road House”, “Be nice – until it’s time to not be nice.” If a human or his dog is behaving inappropriately, assume they don’t know any better, and do your best to educate gently and politely.

If you’re uncomfortable doing so, seek out the help of another park user for support. Don’t wimp out! As a responsible dog-park user, you have an obligation to report inappropriate actions of other users that put the safety of dogs and humans at risk. How would you feel if you turned a blind eye to a potentially dangerous behavior, only to have another person or dog injured – perhaps seriously or fatally – if an incident happens in the future that you might have been able to prevent?

Examples of positive phrases for confronting an owner at the dog park might include:

• “Excuse me, but perhaps you didn’t realize that this side of the park is for dogs under 25 pounds…Your Lab is really handsome; I bet he’d love to play with the Golden Retriever on the other side of that fence.”

• “Hey, that sandwich looks tasty – and there’s a St. Bernard headed this way who’s eyeing it with great interest. It might be safer if you finished eating it outside the fence and then brought your dog back in to play.”

• “What a cute baby! If she were mine I’d be worried about having her in the park here with all these energetic dogs. I’ve read some pretty scary stories about dogs grabbing babies out of adults’ arms – I’d hate to see your little girl get hurt! And actually the park rules say kids should be 8 years or older to be in here…”

dog park

If the inappropriate actions are putting you or your dog at risk and the other dog owner isn’t receptive to education, take your dog and leave the park until you can ask the users’ group or other park authorities to handle the situation.

If you don’t know and can’t get the dog owner’s name and contact information, try to get his license plate number. If that’s not possible, write down a detailed description of both dog and human, and note any times you’ve seen them at the park, to help authorities make contact. Also write a detailed and unemotional description of the behavior(s) you felt were inappropriate.

The positive approach generally works better with humans, just as it does with dogs. A dog owner on one of my training lists recently posted a message about her dog who occasionally became aggressive with other dogs at her local dog park. Other list members gently explained to her why the dog park was not the appropriate place to work on modifying her dog’s reactive behavior, and offered other options for doing behavior modification work with him. I’m pretty sure from her responses that she understood. At least I hope she did, for her dog’s sake, and the sake of other dog-park users in her community.

DOG PARKS: OVERVIEW

1. Evaluate your dog realistically to determine whether she is a good dog-park candidate. If you’re not sure, ask your dog behavior professional for her perception of your dog’s park potential.

2. Check out the dog parks in your area to determine if any appear to be suitable for your dog.

3. The first time you take your dog to a dog park, ask a friend who is knowledgeable about dogs and dog behavior to accompany you and help troubleshoot.

4. Have fun with dog-park play!

Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA, is WDJ’s Training Editor.

Probiotics Boost Canine Overall Health

2

[Updated August 22, 2018]

FEEDING PROBIOTICS TO DOGS

1. Give probiotics to any dog under chronic or acute stress, or who receives antibiotics.

2. For dogs with allergies or digestive problems, use a variety of probiotics with several strains of benefical bacteria.

3. When buying food sources of probiotics, look for the freshest products possible. The live cultures in products such as yogurt and kefir lose potency as they sit on shelves.


Who hasn’t heard of “friendly” or “beneficial” bacteria? Even acidophilus, once a confusing tongue-twister, has become as familiar as yogurt, in which it’s the active ingredient.

One reason beneficial bacteria have worked their way into the public’s consciousness is the excellent press they have received for helping repair damage done by antibiotics. Broad-spectrum antibiotics target not one but all strains of bacteria, leaving us thoroughly disinfected.

But no antibiotic kills 100 percent of the body’s bacteria. A few always survive, some harmful and some essential to good health. Often the harmful organisms thrive and reproduce, overwhelming the beneficial strains that normally keep them in check, resulting in a host of new health problems. According to the Royal Society of Medicine of Great Britain, fully 90 percent of chronic diseases are caused by an unhealthy intestinal system.

probiotics for dogs

This helps explain why antibiotic drugs have long-term as well as short-term side effects. Their long-term side effects include impaired digestion, gastrointestinal discomfort, diarrhea, chronic or systemic yeast or fungal infections, lowered immunity, and the creation of drug-resistant or “super germ” bacteria that worry public health officials around the world.

Bacterial Homeostasis: the Body’s Balancing Act

Homeostasis is a Greek word meaning stable and balanced. When the body’s systems are in homeostasis, they maintain a stable body temperature, a constant blood pH, balanced blood sugar, normal blood pressure, and a healthy population of microorganisms. For the last to occur, the body needs more beneficial than harmful bacteria. In fact, most experts estimate that for optimum health, the body should contain 80 percent beneficial bacteria and no more than 20 percent harmful bacteria.

Even those who haven’t taken antibiotics may lack beneficial bacteria because of poor diet, stress, illness, prescription drugs, travel, or environmental factors. Anything that interferes with the growth and reproduction of beneficial bacteria interferes with good heath.

Just as our dogs share many human health problems, they are adversely affected by the antibiotics they routinely receive from veterinarians as well as by environmental toxins and diet. Many pet foods contain ingredients that nourish harmful bacteria, such as sugars and starches, along with ingredients that damage good bacteria, such as chemical preservatives.

In both species, healthy intestinal bacteria typically consist of dozens or hundreds of different species. These bacteria produce enzymes; improve digestion; lower the risk of colitis, irritable bowel syndrome, and similar disorders; prevent diarrhea; synthesize vitamins; detoxify the body; and protect against toxins. In dogs, conditions that coincide with bacterial imbalances include digestive disorders, flatulence, constipation, diarrhea, urinary tract infections, allergies, diabetes, arthritis, vitamin B deficiencies, chronic ear infections, skin and coat problems, susceptibility to bacterial or viral infections, bad breath, poor immune response, and, in some cases, confusion or behavioral problems.

Keeping Bad Bacteria in Check

Healthy intestinal bacteria inhibit the growth of pathogens such as viruses, fungi, parasites, and harmful bacteria.

Escherichia coli, or E. coli, is usually a harmless inhabitant of human and animal intestines, but the strain E. coli O157:H7 produces a powerful toxin that can cause severe illness. It was first identified during a 1982 outbreak of bloody diarrhea that was traced to contaminated hamburger.

Investigative journalist Jo Robinson has documented many benefits of feeding cattle on grass instead of in commercial feedlots. Among other things, a natural grass diet provides ideal conditions for the growth of beneficial bacteria in the gut of the cattle. Recent research at Cornell University shows that grass-fed cattle have less than 1 percent of the E. coli bacteria found in feedlot cattle, while other studies show that grass-fed chickens carry significantly lower amounts of E. coli than chickens raised indoors on factory farms.

Robinson explains that because a grain diet increases the acidity of bovine digestive tracts, the E. coli that grows in feedlot cattle is less affected by hydrochloric acid in the human stomach, which would otherwise destroy it. Beneficial bacteria in the digestive tracts of dogs and people help prevent acid-resistant E. coli from proliferating when they eat beef from feedlot cattle.

The Salmonella family includes more than 2,300 types of one-celled organisms, two of which, Salmonella enteritidis and Salmonella typhimurium, are the most common. Salmonella can contaminate meat, poultry, dairy products, eggs, seafood, and some fruits and vegetables, but it is especially associated with chickens and eggs from factory farms. Beneficial bacteria help keep Salmonella bacteria in check.

Clostridium difficile is a rod-shaped bacteria that produces two toxins that interact to cause a serious, potentially fatal disease that produces diarrhea, abdominal cramping, inflammation of the colon, and meningitis-like symptoms. In June 2006, the Centers for Disease Control alarmed therapy dog organizations by publishing a report from researchers at the University of Guelph in Ontario, Canada, in which a therapy dog was shown to carry a human epidemic strain of C. difficile.

The study’s lead author, Sandra L. Lefebvre, explained, “One particular strain of C. difficile has been implicated in outbreaks of Clostridium difficile-associated disease (CDAD) in hospitals in North America and Europe and appears to be spreading internationally at an alarming rate. We report this toxin-variant strain of C. difficile in a healthy four-year-old Toy Poodle that visits persons in hospitals and long-term care facilities in Ontario weekly. C. difficile was isolated from a fecal sample collected in the summer of 2004 as part of a cross-sectional study evaluating pathogen carriage by visitation dogs . . . CDAD cases were occurring at increased frequency in the facility around the time the dog’s fecal specimen was collected.”

While this is the first documented case of the human epidemic strain of C. difficile in a dog, the study does not prove that interspecies transmission of C. difficile oc-curs. “However,” it states, “that possibility exists, as is becoming apparent with other pathogens, such as methicillin-resistant Staphylococcus aureus. The recurrent exposure of this dog to human healthcare settings suggests that the animal acquired this strain during visits to the hospital or long-term care facility, either from the healthcare environment or contaminated hands of human contacts. We recommend that future studies evaluating the dis-semination of this strain and investigations of the movement of C. difficile into the community consider the role of animals.”

According to Pennsylvania State University College of Medicine professor Kelly Dowhower Karpa, PhD, in her book Bacteria for Breakfast: Probiotics for Good Health, numerous studies show that the beneficial bacteria Saccharomyces boulardii has cleared C. difficile in an encouraging number of cases.

In other studies, Dr. Karpa writes, one strain of Lactobacillus given at high doses (10 billion live bacteria daily) for as little as 7 to 10 days following conventional antibiotic therapy has cured patients experiencing relapsing C. difficile diarrhea.

Because beneficial bacteria are the body’s first line of defense against pathogens, maintaining a large and vigorous population of these friendly microbes can help prevent all types of infection as well as their transmission from people to animals and vice versa.

Good Bacteria to the Rescue

Thanks to the growing popularity of beneficial bacteria, it isn’t difficult to increase their population for improved health and immunity.

Several strains are grown in laboratories for use in supplements, including the familiar Lactobacillus acidophilus. Other popular bacteria include L. bulgaricus, L. rhamnosus, L. casei, L. plantarum, Streptococcus faecium, S. thermophilus, and Bifidobacterium bifidum, formerly known as L. bifidus. L. acidophilus, which resides mostly in the small intestine, is the strain most associated with animals, while B. bifidum, which resides mostly in the large intestine and colon, is most associated with humans.

Many yogurt producers have recently changed their formulas in response to consumer demand for probiotics. Stonyfield Farm, a leading maker of yogurt and organic dairy products on the East Coast, now adds six live cultures to every product: L. bulgaricus, S. thermophilus, L. acidophilus, bifidus, L. casei, and L. reuteri. As the company’s website explains, “Probiotics protect us from pathogens such as Salmonella and others by preventing their attachment to the intestinal lining. They interfere by blanketing all available surfaces, thus limiting the growth of microscopic invaders like Giardia, Candida yeast, and bacteria such as E. coli.

“Studies have shown that probiotic cultures benefit health in several ways – by suppressing pathogenic bacteria, helping control antibiotic-associated diarrhea, helping prevent traveler’s diarrhea and leaky gut syndrome, improving lactose tolerance, producing some vitamins and enzymes, decreasing toxins and mutagenic reactions, improving carbohydrate and protein usage, strengthening innate immunity, creating a barrier effect in the intestinal tract, and reducing infant food allergies and eczema.”

Beneficial bacteria have an ancient history, for people have been using them to culture and preserve foods for millennia. They are ingredients in traditionally fermented foods like sourdough bread, yogurt, kefir, sauerkraut, tempeh, miso, and amazake.

Probiotics for Your Dog

The word probiotic literally means “for life,” as opposed to antibiotic, which means “against life.” Probiotics are strains of beneficial bacteria sold as supplements for human or pet use. All health food stores and many pet supply stores carry several brands of L. acidophilus and other strains that can help improve your dog’s digestion and immune function.

Probiotic supplements are especially beneficial for newborn puppies, to increase the number of desirable organisms in their digestive tract. They are also well-suited to help dogs of all ages cope with stress – travel, intensive training, competition, and boarding. It’s smart to use them to boost the immune system following surgery, parvovirus infections (which affect the small intestine), chronic diarrhea, and whelping. They should also be a standard prescription during and after the use of any antibiotic.

probiotics for dogs

Buying a probiotic supplement and following label directions is the simplest way to introduce a new supply of live beneficial bacteria to your dog’s digestive tract. Some brands require refrigeration; others have a long shelf life at room temperature. The supplement may be sold as a powder, liquid, or in tablets or capsules, some of which are enteric-coated to survive stomach acid and break apart in the small intestine. Depending on the brand, label instructions may recommend feeding the product on an empty stomach between meals, with food, or immediately before or after eating.

Some products contain a single strain of beneficial bacteria, such as L. acidophilus, while others contain multiple strains. Experts disagree as to which approach is better. Single-strain products tend to be backed by more clinical research, but some advocates favor multiple strains because that’s what the body contains.

The newest probiotics on the market are not bacteria; they are homeostatic soil organisms, or HSOs, which literally come from dirt. Soil contains so many different microorganisms that science has defined less than 1 percent of the estimated total. One gram of soil (about a teaspoon) can contain as many as 10,000 microbe species.

Until recently, dogs, cats, and people all over the world ingested a constant supply of HSOs. That no longer happens in the U.S., where indoor lifestyles and cleanliness keep HSOs out of our mouths and food supply. Now medical researchers are linking asthma, allergies, and other common health problems to a lack of exposure to everyday dirt, germs, and HSOs, especially during early childhood. Some vets make the same connection to puppies and kittens.

The manufacturers of HSO supplements grow organisms discovered in pristine parts of the world where the number of beneficial microbes in soil is unusually high. These microbes are chosen for their ability to destroy molds, yeasts, fungi, viruses, and harmful bacteria, and are usually combined with several strains of beneficial bacteria.

Time to Heal

How long does it take to repair the body with probiotics if your dog has taken antibiotics? Estimates from researchers and veterinarians range from several weeks or months to a year or several years.

The fastest recoveries are experienced by dogs who have a good supply of surviving native bacteria – that is, beneficial bacteria that they obtained from their mothers’ milk or from supplements within hours of birth – which are supported by a diet that feeds them instead of one that feeds their harmful competitors.

Another way to recover quickly is to be a good host for the beneficial bacteria introduced in supplements, so that the dog’s system provides what these bacteria need in order to reproduce and colonize.

Not all beneficial bacteria colonize or continue to multiply after the patient stops receiving probiotic supplements, but some will if given the right growing conditions, and even beneficial bacteria that don’t colonize can improve the digestive tract for as long as they are taken.

Feeding Beneficial Bacteria

Probiotics are beneficial bacteria. Prebiotics are the foods that feed them. In addition to supporting beneficial bacteria that are added to the system by probiotic supplements, prebiotics nourish whatever native bacteria survive antibiotic treatment.

In his book Cultivate Health from Within, Khem Shahani, PhD, one of the world’s leading research authorities on the role of Lactobacilli and gastrointestinal bacteria, explains the conditions for a food to be an effective prebiotic:

• It must pass through the upper gastrointestinal tract without being absorbed or hydrolyzed;

• It must be selectively fermented by a limited number of potentially beneficial bacteria in the colon;

• It must improve the composition of intestinal bacteria in favor of beneficial strains; and

• It should improve the host’s health.

Dr. Shahani lists several foods and food ingredients that satisfy these criteria and which belong to a special class of carbohydrates called oligosaccharides. Garlic, bananas, chicory, and milk are examples. Several oligosaccharides, including FOS (fructooligosaccharides) and GOS (galacto-oligosaccharides) are sometimes used as ingredients in yogurt, cultured dairy products, and other foods as well as in probiotic supplements. FOS and GOS ingredients are most popular in Europe and Japan, where they are used in more than 500 foods and nutritional supplements.

Another popular FOS prebiotic is the Jerusalem artichoke or sunchoke (it’s a member of the sunflower family), which contains inulin, a favorite food of lactobacteria. Jerusalem artichoke flour, for use in cooking, is widely sold in Japan.

Sweet whey, the part of milk that is separated out in the cheese-making process, is high in lactose, making it an ideal food for intestinal bacteria.

“In theory, prebiotics consumed alone might be able to deliver benefits, provided that the beneficial bacteria are indeed present in the GI tract in sufficient numbers,” says Dr. Shahani. “Today many probiotic supplements available in the marketplace now contain prebiotics. Such products (where probiotics and prebiotics are com-bined) are called synbiotics. This approach may provide an efficient mechanism for introducing and then enriching health-promoting probiotic bacterial.”

Prebiotics such as sweet whey and FOS should be introduced gradually, however, because they ferment in the large intestine, producing gassiness, abdominal discomfort, belching, bloating, and flatulence until the body adjusts.

Foods such as sauerkraut and other lactofermented vegetables contain and feed beneficial microbes, making them both probiotics and prebiotics. Lacto-fermentation breaks down and releases gases before these foods are consumed, making them far less likely to cause adverse reactions. In fact, dogs receive far more nutrition from lactofermented vegetables than from the same untreated vegetables, even if they are pureed or juiced. This is because lactofermentation breaks down, tenderizes, and predigests vegetables, increasing their vitamin content. Many natural food markets sell raw, unpasteurized sauerkraut, kimchi (Korea’s traditional sauerkraut), and other lactofermented fare. But these foods are easy to make at home, with or without special equipment. (For details, see “It’s All in How You Make It,” March 2001.)

Another easy addition to your dog’s diet is homemade yogurt. Goat milk is often recommended for dogs because it’s easier to digest than cow’s milk, and when its lactose is broken down through fermentation, it’s far less likely to cause digestive problems than other dairy products.

Commercially produced yogurt, including “live culture” brands, lose potency as they sit in stores, even on refrigerated shelves. Making your own in an electric yogurt maker is the easiest way to insure that your dog receives the maximum number of live cultures possible. If you let yogurt ferment undisturbed for 24 hours, beneficial bacteria will break down 100 percent of its lactose for maximum digestibility.

Kefir, another fermented dairy product, is even easier to make because it doesn’t require heat. Kefir’s vigorous beneficial bacteria, which easily colonize in the digestive tract, include Lactococus spp., Leuconostoc mesenteroides, Lactobacillus kefyr, Kliyveromyces marxianus, and Saccharomyces unisporus.

Don’t underestimate the health benefits of lactofermented foods. In 2005, researchers at Seoul National University in Korea announced that a culture fluid of Leuconostoc kimchii, a beneficial bacteria in kimchi, showed clear remedial effects for chickens suffering from bird flu, Newcastle disease, and bronchitis. Previous research showed that Pediococcus pentosaceus, another lactic ferment from kimchi, successfully prevented infection from harmful bacilli, including Helicobacter, which causes gastritis, and Listeria and Shigella sonnel, which cause food poisoning. Some research suggests that traditional European sauerkraut may help protect dogs and people from cancer.

Beneficial bacteria may be tiny microbes, but they’re big supporters of your dog’s immune system. Yours, too!

A long-time contributor to WDJ and author of The Encyclopedia of Natural Pet Care, Natural Remedies for Dogs & Cats, and other books, CJ Puotinen lives in New York with her husband, a Lab, and a tabby cat.

Consistent Dog Training With Regards to Men and Women

By Pat Miller

Science and common observation tells us that male and female brains are different. That’s no surprise to anyone who has noticed the gender-related differences that often occur in relationships between men, women, and their canine companions. Some of the differences can be beneficial, while others may be detrimental to domestic tranquility as it relates to life with the family dog.

The question is, which differences should be nurtured and encouraged? Which ones need to be addressed to prevent the dog from being confused and creating behavior problems? And how can that be accomplished?

In general, men tend to be more physical with their dogs, and more assertive, enjoying rough-and-tumble wrestling games and expecting the dog to understand and obey. Women tend to be softer, more into cuddling than wrestling, and take more interest in teaching the dog to understand the complex world of primate (human) communication. Of course, these are generalizations; there are certainly men who like to cuddle their dogs and women who are into canine wrestling matches!

A time to be physical

324

The same physical behavior may be appropriate with one dog and inappropriate with another. My own husband enjoys more physical interaction with our dogs than I do. This works out fine with Tucker, our 70-pound Cattle Dog-mix, who gets a wild-eyed look and a huge grin on his face when Paul starts pushing and grabbing at him, or teases him by slapping at his paws. With excellent bite inhibition, Tucker enjoys the interactions with open mouth and fierce growls, but in 13 years of rough play has never put a tooth on human skin.

For Tucker, Paul’s physical games are appropriate and acceptable. Just last week, however, I had to remind my beloved that paw-slapping is not appropriate play for Lucy, our two-year-old Cardigan Corgi. This is especially true when she’s chewing a bone, because she has mild resource-guarding behaviors that could easily be exacerbated by confrontational games, and has always tended toward being mouthy.

When a family member insists on physical interactions with a dog like Lucy, the solution is to agree on physical games that don’t reinforce inappropriate behaviors. My favorite for this is Tug of War – with rules. (See “Tug: Play It by the Rules,” October 2004.) The dog’s teeth are directed to an acceptable tug object rather than human skin, and dog and human can be as rough as they like as long as it’s mutually enjoyable to both parties, and both can play by the rules. A valuable side effect to Tug is that, properly played, it reinforces a healthy hierarchy between dog and human, as the human most often ends up in possession of the tug prize. A good leader controls the good stuff.

On the gentler side of Tug, the game can be used to elevate status for a dog like our Bonnie Wee Lass, a Scottie/something mix who, at the age of one year, is finally outgrowing her submissive urination behavior. Because I play more softly than Paul, I’m a better Tug partner for Bonnie, deliberately avoiding rough play that might intimidate her, and letting her win the game far more often than I let her assertive packmate, Lucy, end up with the prize.

Other more physical interactions that may appeal to the “Men Being Men” dog-owning set include high-arousal canine activities like agility. Even men who aren’t into canine competition (which seems to be more popular with women, perhaps because of the precision and discipline required) can romp with their dogs just for fun over agility and natural obstacles. Many men revel in their dogs’ athletic ability as they leap over jumps and navigate teeters and fallen logs. Dock diving, where dogs leap long distances off docks and splash-land in water to retrieve objects, also tends to appeal to many men.

It’s important to recognize and acknowledge the value of physical games. They can be great exercise when done appropriately. They’re also great relationship builders. A rousing game of Tug can be a great stress and exercise reliever for a high-energy canine suffering from cabin fever due to inclement weather. Don’t grudgingly tell your partner, “All right, if you must roughhouse with the dog, go ahead, as long as you do it the right way . . .” Instead, let him know how much you appreciate him playing with and exercising the dog. Help him understand why game rules are important, and reinforce him for playing by the rules. Humans respond well to positive reinforcement, too!

Presence

252

The male voice is more intimidating to most dogs than softer, higher-pitched female tones. Without even thinking about it, men can “command” obedience from dogs, eliciting appeasement behaviors with their naturally deeper, louder voices, larger physical form, and generally more assertive presence.

Of course, men can overdo intimidation, causing dogs, especially those with soft personalities, to shut down, withdraw, even become fearful in response to the male presence. In fact, if the male partner overdoes the intimidation thing, constantly using a stern voice to get the dog to comply with “commands,” it can interfere with a female partner’s ability to succeed with a gentler training approach.

Women are often magically adept at helping a soft or shy dog build confidence and getting dogs to happily buy into a training program. Their softer body image, higher pitched voices, and greater willingness to be silly can result in dogs who offer uninhibited, joyful behaviors in training and relationship. On the other hand, some women can overdo “soft and silly,” to the point the dog may have difficulty taking them seriously.

It’s vital to recognize the value in both the male and female style of interacting with dogs. Each gender can benefit by deliberately learning to use tools of the other and to dampen their own gender-related behaviors when appropriate to enhance their communications skills with their dogs. Dogs can benefit if partners have discussions about how their personal styles and relationships with their dogs differ, which parts benefit the training program, and which of their own human behaviors they might strive to modify to achieve the greatest success.

Tips for mom ’n pop training:
If you and your partner don’t yet have a dog, talk about gender-related differences and how closely you each fit your gender stereotype or not. Be sure to look for a dog who can accommodate your styles. If either partner is very loud and assertive, avoid very soft canine personalities. If either partner is very soft and non-assertive, avoid very strong, pushy dogs. It’s not fair to get a dog who’s poorly suited to one human style or the other and expect the partner to change overnight to be able to cope with the dog’s training needs.

If you already have your dog, you can:

• Acknowledge that there are good and not-so-good things about both gender training styles and agree to work on them together. Sit down with your partner and discuss how your training and relationship styles and preferred activities differ.

• Make a list of interactions that each partner has with the dog, and agree on which are beneficial and which are detrimental. A sample list might look something like this:

Man – Can get the dog to sit or come reliably and consistently using a deep, calm voice (beneficial); encourages the dog to jump up (detrimental); plays Tug with the dog (beneficial) but doesn’t always play by the rules (detrimental); usually feeds dog (beneficial) but is too casual about feeding, setting the bowl onto floor as dog dances around and jumps up (detrimental); always requires the dog to sit calmly to attach leash to go for walk (beneficial) but yells at the dog if he doesn’t sit promptly (detrimental); and takes the dog for long hikes (beneficial).

Woman – Takes dog to training classes and practices daily (beneficial), but often “chatters” to the dog during training, to the point that the dog tunes her out (detrimental); is consistent about using treat rewards and other reinforcers for desirable behaviors (beneficial), but sometimes reinforces inappropriate behaviors because they’re “cute” (detrimental); routinely grooms the dog, using positive reinforcement and desensitization to help dog enjoy the grooming experience (beneficial); has the dog sit at the door to go outside (beneficial), but sometimes lets the dog out anyway if she can’t get him to sit (detrimental); chases the dog when he grabs something he’s not supposed to have (detrimental).

288

• Agree to acknowledge (reinforce) each other for all the good stuff on the lists. The partners might agree to put a quarter (or a dollar!) in a rewards jar every time they see the other perform one of the beneficial activities. When the tally in the jar reaches a pre-determined amount, the partners can use it to pay for a fun date together (a weekend at a dog-friendly B&B?), or to buy something they both want.

• Agree to work on self-awareness corrections for detrimental behaviors. Whenever one partner realizes that s/he did one of the detrimental activities a quarter (dollar) goes in the corrections jar. Partners should avoid correcting each other; nothing goes in the jar for correcting your partner! Partners can use the money in the jar to buy agreed-upon toys, treats, and training equipment for the dog.

• Agree in advance to do it all in good humor, always remembering that it’s in the best interests of the dog, and of family harmony. Viva la difference!

Latest Blog

What’s Your Dog Pet Peeve?

I recently fostered a dog who first greeted me at the shelter that I sprung her from by jumping up on me. I spent the first two days with her almost exclusively working on preventing her from jumping. When I introduced her to a friend, my friend immediately held her arms out and greeted the dog’s enthusiastic jump up with a big hug, petting, and cooing