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Whole Dog Journal’s 2008 Dry Dog Food Review

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Transparency. That’s what the pet food recalls of early 2007 taught us to value in a pet food company. In the aftermath of that event, we received hundreds of accounts from concerned owners who were understandably scared and unnecessarily frustrated when they tried to get information about their pets’ food. Some companies “got it,” and responded immediately with up-to-the-minute updates with pertinent information about their products on their websites and recorded messages on their toll-free phone lines. In our view, the best ones were the companies that stated immediately where their foods were made, where their ingredients came from, and what they were doing to ensure their products were safe.

But many other companies stonewalled, insisting that their products were safe but refusing to offer any corroborating evidence! Even faced with grievously sick cats or dogs, many owners could not get any useful information from the pet food companies whose products they used.

This may be business as usual for large, conglomerate pet food makers; goodness knows it’s certainly true of most processed human food makers. But when a dog owner pays in the area of $2 a pound (or more) for what is marketed as the healthiest dog food on earth, it stings to learn that its maker won’t so much as return a phoned or e-mailed inquiry about its ingredients – especially when a dog or cat is fighting for its life in a veterinary hospital.

The weeks following the initial recall brought new disclosures about foreign-sourced ingredients, and some disparities between the ingredients listed on food labels and what the products actually contained. That’s when I decided that Whole Dog Journal’s 2008 dog food reviews would include only those products that met our usual selection criteria (see page 5) and met at least a minimum standard of transparency.

Manufacturing info:
What it can tell you

I’ve found that one fairly reliable indicator of a pet food company’s willingness to disclose information about their products to consumers is whether or not they will discuss their manufacturing location – although this is a recent phenomenon.

In 1997, my first year of reviewing dog food, none of the pet food company executives I interviewed would discuss their manufacturing location; historically, this was status quo for the industry. “That’s proprietary information,” they’d say, even if all of their competitors knew exactly where their products were made. Several developments in the past decade have changed this.

First was the establishment and growth of a “super premium” sector of the pet food market. Twenty years ago, most dog foods were pretty similar; all contained meat by-products and tons of grain. Trends toward “peak nutrition,” evolutionary diets, and holistic medicine trickled down into the world of companion animals, and a few, small, innovative companies started making products that contained more and higher-quality animal products. The success of these products, both in sales and actual performance in the dogs who ate them, led to rapid growth of this specialized niche of the pet food market.

Pet Food Manufacturing Plant

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As it grew in market share, the “super premium” sector became increasingly competitive. Companies have been going to greater lengths to find and utilize better and/or more novel ingredients to use (and feature in their advertising).

They’ve also sought out other unique and beneficial features to incorporate into their formulation, manufacture, packaging, and even corporate behavior to help their products stand out. Initially, the decision of some to disclose information about ingredient sourcing, product manufacturing, quality assurance (QA) processes, and other bits of previously secret processes was probably as much an effort to gain a marketing edge as it was a tool to increase consumer confidence.

Whatever a company’s motivation for disclosing detailed information about its products, the consumer wins. I’ve long appreciated companies that have educated personnel readily available and willing to communicate with consumers about their products. It’s even better when the company has a veterinarian available who can discuss the company’s products and a consumer’s dog’s digestion or other health problems in detail.

Of course, it’s easy for company reps to mislead consumers who inquire about things they really don’t know much about. During the 2007 recalls, it was only when frightened pet owners sought information from pet food makers, and shared this information with each other, that a number of companies were caught being disingenuous. This is another reason why I decided to make company transparency a new criterion for Whole Dog Journal’s food reviews, and also publish the results. Who would release false information where all your competitors are sure to read about it?

Why you need to know more than just the food’s maker
I’ve just told you why the disclosure of a food’s manufacturer should be part of a pet owner’s selection process. Here are some reasons why this information should never be used as a sole selection criterion.

Large pet food manufacturers may make dozens (if not hundreds) of different products, formulated for a wide range of price points and using ingredients from a wide span of quality. And if a plant makes products for other companies, even the QA processes used during manufacture for different clients may be very different. The name of the maker alone is simply not enough to guarantee quality or confirm a lack thereof.

Known variously as “private label manufacturers,” “contract manufacturers,” or “co-packers,” production facilities make foods for other companies – and make them according to their clients’ specifications. Co-packers generally specialize in the manufacture of a certain type of product (extruded, baked, canned), and may actually manufacture many competing brands within a category.

The most discriminating clients specify everything in their contracts, requiring their co-packer to use only specific ingredient sources and perform extraordinary quality-assurance procedures, and paying for independent, third-party audits of the manufacturing process. (Of course, all of this results in higher costs for clients and consumers.)

Companies that sell lower-quality, low-cost products generally have much less stringent contracts with their co-packers. Often, they allow the manufacturer to source ingredients, since the co-packer can usually purchase ingredients at a lower price, given that they often buy in quantities large enough to use in several clients’ products. Clients with low-cost products usually specify only that the product contain the ingredients it is supposed to and that the finished product meets the specified nutrient levels spelled out in the product’s “guaranteed analysis” – and it’s up to the co-packer to accomplish this for an agreed-upon price. As we saw in the 2007 contaminated gluten recalls, this type of arrangement may set the stage for disaster, as the co-packer tries to find the least-expensive source of ingredients that meet the client’s specs.

This is how different products that I would characterize as the highest and the lowest quality may come from the same manufacturing plant. This also explains why some very good products made at the Menu Foods (one of North America’s largest co-packers of canned pet foods) were completely untouched by the recalls, and so many low-cost “store brands” made there were recalled.

Unfortunately, many underinformed, alarmist (or simply alarmed) pet owners conclude that if a problem occurs at a plant, every product that originates at that plant (from then on) is unsafe. Early in the 2007 recalls, when the affected foods were thought to originate only at Menu Foods, many pet owners got the idea that all foods made at Menu must be unsafe. (And the hysteria went further; some concluded that if a company had one food made at Menu, that all the other company’s foods, made elsewhere, must also be contaminated.)

This sort of reactionary conclusion has made many pet food company executives far less forthcoming about their products’ origins. Many companies stonewalled consumers in the face of the recall, and have since returned to a policy of nondisclosure, to prevent being unfairly associated with the recalls.

I have sympathy for companies that disclose all sorts of details about their products yet decline to state their manufacturer to preserve a genuinely exclusive relationship with a small co-packer. This feeling is tempered, however, by real distaste for the companies that hide behind the “proprietary information” excuse for refusing to disclose practically anything about their ingredient sourcing or quality, manufacturing, QA, product testing, etc., even as they allege their products to be of the “finest quality.” In my opinion, that’s competing in the high-end sector of the pet food market on false pretenses.

What you should ask
So, while I value the willingness of a company to tell you where its products are made, this should be only the start of the information-sharing between consumers and a top-shelf pet food company.

By the way, companies that have their own manufacturing plants should not get a pass on these questions; distant clients may scrutinize a co-packer more thoroughly than a company owner! All companies, whether they own their plants or hire contract manufacturers, should be equally forthcoming about their manufacturing arrangements and the following:

■Product formulation (Who developed the formula, and what are his/her credentials? Can a consumer examine a list of all the product’s nutrient levels?)

■Ingredients (Do they source all their own ingredients? Can they provide full traceability on each ingredient used in their products? Are any of their products imported? Which ones and from where?)

■QA processes (Does the plant have an on-site lab, and what can it test for? Is an outside lab used to confirm these findings and independent tests? How often are samples pulled for testing? How often do your own employees visit your co-packer? Do your plants follow a hazard analysis and critical control point [HACCP] food safety program? Do you use third-party auditors to monitor your co-packers – or even your own facility?

■Available support (If I feed my dog your food and he gets sick, what support will you be able to provide for me?)

Our usual business
On the following pages are products that meet not only our long-standing criteria for food selection (see sidebar, below) but also our new standard of transparency. We’ve listed the makers of all our “approved” products. A few foods that were previously on our lists did not meet our new standard; these are noted in the chart on page 4.

We’ve included more information about the products appearing on our “approved foods” list than ever. We’ve noted which contact information is available on the packaging: Phone, mail, website? We appreciate easy-to-read (not coded) “best by” dates on packaging; we like it even more when the manufacturing date is also provided, so consumers can determine the food’s precise degree of freshness. Our charts note which foods include this feature.

We’ve also discussed the benefits of an expanded “guaranteed analysis” (GA) on a product label. Federal and state laws require only four nutrient levels (minimum levels of protein and fat, maximum levels of fiber and moisture) to be present, but anything that appears in the GA is subject to testing by state feed control officials; failures are subject to disciplinary action. We’ve noted which “extra” nutrients are included on our approved products’ GA.

For the first time, we offered the food companies whose products we included on our “approved dry foods” list to submit a short statement about their products. We invited them to reference the sourcing of their ingredients, the testing and oversight they provide – whatever they wanted, as long as the statement was 150 words or less. That seemed excessively short to them, and just about right to us, until we received 31 statements (and not all of them kept under the limit!). We had to edit and trim them to make them all fit, and even so, these next six pages are looking pretty grey; there wasn’t any way we could use the photos we took of each package!

SPCA Dog Food Donations

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Please note that we did not fact-check or seek to verify the information provided by the companies for these statements; if you have questions, please do contact the companies and quiz them for more detail. By participating in this year’s review, each company has demonstrated an above-average willingness to provide corporate transparency.

Keep in mind, as ever, that the foods on our list are not the only good foods on the market! The list is offered as a starting place and for its value as a comparison to products you may find in your area. Use our list of selection criteria, below, to evaluate the brand of dog food you buy.

Also note that we have presented the foods on our list in alphabetic order by company. We do not “rank order” foods or say which ones are “best,” because what’s “best” for every dog is different.

The proof is in the pudding. If your dog does not thrive on the food, with a glossy coat, itch-free skin, bright eyes, clear ears, and a happy, alert demeanor, it doesn’t matter whether we like it or not – switch! If your dog’s health or attitude sours under the influence of a certain food, stop feeding it, note the ingredients, and find another food that contains different ingredients. Keep notes! Sometimes it takes years to find products that really suit your dog.

Analyzing Dog Behavior and Puppy Behavior

[Updated March 18, 2016]

Hang with dog folks long enough and you’re sure to hear some pretty interesting theories about dog behavior. Some are, of course, useful and accurate, but the dog training world is littered with myths, many of which are at least several generations old. Some of them are just silly; some have the potential for causing serious damage to the dog-human relationship; and still others are downright dangerous. It’s time to get past the myths.

Socializing Puppies

Veterinary behaviorist Dr. Lore Haug of Sugar Land, Texas, recently compiled a comprehensive list of dog behavior myths. With her blessing, we’re sharing 10 of our “favorites” from her list, and explaining why these “busted” myths should not be used as the justification for a training or behavior modification technique. I am always exhorting my interns, apprentices, and clients to be critical thinkers. When someone offers you an alleged nugget of canine wisdom, regardless of who the someone is, you’re wise to run it through your own rigorous filters before accepting it as real wisdom or adopting it as the basis for a training technique. These should include:

A scientific filter. Does it make sense scientifically? If someone assures you that shock collar training is actually positive reinforcement training because the shock is no different than someone tapping you on the shoulder to get you to stop a behavior, does that concur with your understanding of positive reinforcement? (That a dog’s behavior makes a good thing happen, so the behavior increases.) Don’t be fooled by the euphemisms “e-collar” and “tingle,” “tap,” or “stim” for the word “shock.”

A philosophical filter. Is it congruent with your own philosophies about dog training and relationships? Positive punishment (dog’s behavior makes a bad thing happen; behavior decreases) makes sense from a scientific standpoint. That doesn’t mean you want to – or have to – use it with your dog, and risk the damage it can do to your relationship. Trainers with a positive training philosophy generally try to avoid the use of positive punishment, or any methods that work through the use of fear, pain, aversives, and avoidance.

An “acid test” filter. It may seem sound scientifically, and it may feel okay philosophically, but does it work? If you’re comfortable trying it out and you don’t like the results, feel free to continue on and explore why it’s not working or simply toss it out. Just because it works for someone else doesn’t mean it has to work for you.

Now, keeping these filters in mind, let’s see how some of the most common and harmful myths about canine behavior create a flawed foundation for training.

Myth #1: “Puppies should not go to puppy classes/the mall/friends’ houses until they have had all their vaccinations at 16 weeks/6 months of age.”

– Fails all three tests.

This one lands squarely at the top of the “dangerous myth” category. It’s generally perceived as credible by new puppy owners because it’s often offered by the pup’s veterinarian.

While it appears scientifically sound on its face (an unvaccinated puppy is at risk for contracting deadly diseases!), puppies who aren’t properly socialized are at a much greater risk for developing behavior problems, including aggression, that are likely to shorten their lives.

The vet is right on one hand; the best way to ensure that your pup isn’t exposed to dog germs is to avoid other dogs. It’s certainly true that you want to prevent your pup’s exposure to unknown and/or possibly unhealthy dogs (and their waste). But it’s also critically important that your pup get lots of exposure to the rest of the world, including healthy puppies in a controlled environment, before the critical socialization period ends at 12 to 16 weeks. If he doesn’t, he’ll be at risk of developing serious, sometimes deadly, behavior problems. (See “Puppy Training School,” Whole Dog Journal September 2007, for more information on early education for puppies.)

In addition, during the period leading up to the age of four to six months, your pup has protection from his mother’s immunities, and should receive “puppy shots” to cover that period of time when his mother’s protection starts to decrease. Not only is it “okay” to take your pup places while exercising reasonable caution, you have an obligation to provide him with extensive socialization in order to maximize his chances of leading a long and happy life.

Myth #2: “Dogs pull on leash, jump up on people, (add your own) because they are dominant.”

– Fails scientific and philosophical tests.

Like the first myth discussed, this one can be dangerous, because those who believe this myth are likely to believe that they need to use forceful methods to assert their status over their “dominant” dogs.

No one disputes that dogs living in a group understand and respond to the concepts and dictates of a social hierarchy. The fact that canine social structures share elements with human social structures is probably one of the reasons that dogs make such wonderful companions for us. However, most experts in animal behavior today believe that canine social hierarchies are much more based on deference than dominance, and that most canine behavior that many misguided humans attribute to dominance . . . isn’t!

A dog’s goal in life is to make good stuff happen. Behaviors often labeled “dominant” because they are perceived as pushy and assertive – like pulling on leash and jumping up – simply persist because the dog has learned that the behaviors are reinforced; they make good stuff happen. Pulling on leash gets her where she wants to go. Jumping up gets attention. Behaviors that are reinforced continue, and even increase – but they have nothing to do with social status.

If you remove all reinforcement for the unwelcome behaviors (pulling makes us stop; jumping up makes attention go away) and reinforce more appropriate behaviors in their place, the dog will change her behavior.

Myth #3: “If you let your dog sleep on the bed/eat first/go through doors first/win at tug-o-war, he will become the alpha.”

– Fails all three tests.

This one is mostly just silly. Some sources even suggest that the entire family must gather in the kitchen and take turns buttering and eating a cracker before the dog can be fed. Seriously!

See Myth #2 for the mythbusting response to this one. If you don’t want your dog on the furniture, that’s your lifestyle choice, but you don’t need to defend it with the alpha-garbage argument. I feed my dogs before I eat so I don’t have to feel guilty about them being hungry while I fill my own belly. I teach my dogs to sit and wait for permission to go through the door (“say please!”) because it’s a polite, safe behavior and reinforces deference, but not because I’m terrified that they’ll take over the house. And I like to win tug-o-war a lot because it reinforces polite behavior. You can quit worrying about your dog becoming alpha just because you don’t rule with an iron first.

If you are concerned that your dog is too pushy you can implement a “Say Please” program, where your dog asks politely for all good things by sitting – a nice, polite, deference behavior (see “Why Force-Based Training is Not Advocated,” August 2003). If you think your dog is potentially aggressive, it’s even more important to avoid conflict; your attempts to physically dominate him are likely to escalate his aggression rather than resolve it. (See “Puppies Who Deomonstrate “Alpha” Behavior,” July 2006.) If aggression is a real concern, we recommend you consult with a qualified, positive behavior professional who can help you modify your dog’s behavior without the use of force.

Myth #4: “Dogs can’t learn from positive reinforcement. You have to punish them so they know when they are wrong.”

– Fails scientific and philosophical tests; fails acid test unless punisher is very skilled.

This myth has good potential for causing serious harm to the canine-human relationship. Research confirms what positive trainers hold dear: that positive reinforcement training is more effective and has far fewer risks than positive reinforcement training combined with positive punishment.

One study, conducted by scientists at the University of Southampton in the UK and the University of Life Sciences in Norway, evaluated whether punishment was a contributor to behavior problems, and examined the effects of reward, punishment, and rule structure (permissiveness/strictness and consistency) on training and behavior problems. Information was collected via questionnaires from 217 dog guardians. Those who used strong and/or frequent punishment had a significantly higher level of training problems and lower obedience in their dogs. A similar study, conducted at Britain’s University of Bristol, also found that dogs trained only with positive reinforcement exhibited fewer problem behaviors.

For most humans, this makes sense. Do you learn better if someone acknowledges (and rewards) you when you do it right, or slaps you upside the head when you do it wrong? Even if you get rewarded for doing it right, if you also get slapped for doing it wrong, your fear of getting slapped will likely impede your learning and make you more reluctant to try things.

Of course, a good positive training program makes use of management to avoid giving the dog opportunities to be reinforced for unwanted behaviors, and will also make judicious use of negative punishment (dog’s behavior makes a good thing go away) to let him know he made an unrewarding behavior choice.

For more information on why training programs that utilize positive reinforcement are most effective, see “Dog Training Using Positive Techniques,” January 2007.

Myth #5: “If you use treats to train, you will always need them.”

– Fails all three tests.

This just isn’t true. A good positive training program will quickly “fade” the use of food as a constant reinforcer while moving to a schedule of intermittent reinforcement and expanding the repertoire of reinforcers to include things like toys, play, petting, praise, and the opportunity to perform some other highly reinforcing behavior.

Treats can be a very high-value reinforcer and quite useful in training a wide variety of behaviors, so it’s plain silly to turn your back on them. Just be sure to fade food lures quickly in a training program, move to an intermittent schedule of reinforcement when your dog will perform a behavior on cue 8 out of 10 times, and incorporate a variety of reinforcers so you’re never dependent on any one particular reward choice. (For more information about how some people might fail when applying positive training techniques the wrong way, see “Common Dog Training Mistakes,” May 2007.)

Myth #6: “A dog who urinates inside/destroys the house/barks when he is left alone does so because he is spiteful.”

– Fails the scientific and philosophical tests.

This myth definitely causes harm to the dog-human relationship. Dogs don’t do things out of spite, and to think so gives owners a negative perspective on their relationship with their canine family member. Dogs do things because they feel good, they work to make good stuff happen (or to make bad stuff go away), or because they are reacting to events that occur in their environment. While our dogs share much the same range of emotions as we humans, they don’t seem to indulge in all the same motives. Spite requires a certain amount of premeditation and cognitive thinking that science doesn’t support as being evident in the canine behavior repertoire.

Dog Begging

There are two rational explanations for the behaviors described in this myth. The first is that the dog isn’t fully housetrained and hasn’t yet learned house manners. In the absence of direct supervision, the dog urinates when he has a full bladder (an empty bladder feels good) and becomes destructive because playing with/chewing sofa cushions, shoes, ripping down curtains, tipping over the garbage, and barking are fun and rewarding activities.

The other explanation is that the dog suffers from some degree of isolation distress. These behaviors are often a manifestation of stress and the dog’s attempt to relieve his anxiety over being left alone. If your dog regularly urinates (or worse) in the house or destroys things when he is left alone, he may be suffering from a moderate degree of isolation distress, or more severe separation anxiety. This condition can worsen without appropriate management. For more information, see “Relieving Separation Anxiety Symptoms,” August 2001 – and consider a consultation with an animal behavior specialist.

Myth #7: “If you feed a dog human food, he will learn to beg at the table.”

– Fails all three tests.

This is silly! One dog owner’s “begging” is another’s “attention” behavior, eagerly sought-after and highly valued. Behaviors that are reinforced continue and/or increase. If you fed your dog his own dog food from the table, he would learn to beg at the table. It has nothing to do with what type of food he’s being fed! If you don’t want your dog to beg at the table, don’t feed your dog from the table.

Whole Dog Journal readers know full well that human-grade food is better for dogs than much of the junk that’s in many brands of dog food. Whether it’s fed in a form that we recognize as something we might consume, or it’s been transformed into something that more resembles our mental concept of “dog food,” it all still comes from the same basic food ingredients.

Myth #8: “He knows he was bad/did wrong because he looks guilty.”

– Fails all three tests.

This myth is damaging to the relationship, as it leads owners to hold dogs to a moral standard that they aren’t capable of possessing. When a dog looks “guilty,” he is most likely responding to a human’s tense or angry body language with appeasement behaviors. He’s probably thinking something like, “I don’t know why, but my human looks upset. I’d better offer some appeasement behaviors so her anger isn’t directed at me!” Even when the “guilty” expression is a direct and immediate result of your dog’s behavior because your punishment was timely – “Hey! Get out of the garbage!” -your dog’s turned head, lowered body posture, averted eyes – are simply an acknowledgement of your anger and his attempt to reconcile with you.

A trainer friend of mine once did an experiment to convince a client that her dearly held “guilty look” belief was a myth. He had the client hold her dog in the living room while he went into the kitchen and dumped the garbage can on the floor, strewing its contents nicely around the room. Then he had the client bring the dog into the kitchen. Sure enough, the dog “acted guilty” even though he had nothing to do with the garbage on the floor. He just knew from past experience that “garbage on floor” turned his owner into an angry human, and he was already offering appeasement behavior in anticipation of her anger, and to divert her ire from his dog-self. (For more information about canine body language, see “Understanding How Dogs Communicate with Each Other,” April 2006.)

Finally, most owners who have punished a dog for something that was done in their absence can attest to the fact that the punishment generally does not prevent the dog from repeating the behavior another time. What does work is simple management. Put the garbage somewhere that the dog can’t get to it; under a sink with a safety latch on it, for example. Keep counters clear of anything edible. Leave the dog in a part of the house that is comfortable but not easily destroyed. Hire a dog walker to come by in the middle of your dog’s longest days home alone to let him out, give him some stress-relieving exercise, and leave him with a food-filled chew toy. These actions will result in an intact home – and a dog who is not afraid to greet you when you return.

Myth #9: The prong collar works by mimicking a mother dog’s teeth and her corrections.

– Fails the scientific and philosophical tests.

It’s a little discouraging to think that people actually believe this myth. It would be silly if it weren’t so potentially damaging to the relationship and potentially dangerous as well.

Prong collars work because the prongs pressing into the dog’s neck are uncomfortable at best, painful at worst. Because dogs will work to avoid pain and discomfort, the prong collar does work to stop a dog from pulling on the leash, and can shut down other undesirable behaviors as well, at least temporarily. However, like all training tools and techniques that are based on pain and intimidation, there is a significant risk of unintended consequences.

In the case of the prong collar, the primary risk is that the dog will associate the pain with something in his environment at the time he feels it, and this can lead to aggression toward the mistakenly identified cause. A dog’s unmannerly, “I want to greet you” lunge toward another dog or person can turn into, “I want to eat you,” if he decides that the object of his attention is hurting him.

If you have used or are considering the use of a prong collar to control your dog, please consult with a qualified positive behavior consultant to learn about more effective and less potentially harmful methods.

Myth #10: “Aggressive/hand-shy/fearful dogs must have been abused at some point in their lives.”

– Fails the scientific test.

This is a very widespread myth; I hear it so often it makes my brain hurt. Fortunately, while the behaviors described in this myth are problematic, the myth itself may be the most benign of our top 10.

There are many reasons a dog may be aggressive, hand-shy, or fearful. Lack of proper socialization tops the list, especially for fearfulness. If a pup doesn’t get a wide variety of positive social exposures and experiences during the first 12 to 14 weeks of his life, he’s likely to be neophobic – afraid of new things – for the rest of his life (see Myth #1). This neophobia manifests as fear, and for some dogs, as fear-related aggression.

Widely accepted categories of aggression include:

• Defensive (fear-related) aggression
• Possession aggression (resource-guarding)
• Maternal aggression
• Territorial aggression
• Status-related aggression
• Pain-related aggression
• Protection aggression
• Predatory aggression
• Play aggression
• Idiopathic (we don’t know what causes it) aggression

Note that there’s no category for “abuse-related” aggression. Abuse can be one of several causes of fear-related/defensive aggression, but is much less common than the fear-related aggression that results from undersocialization.

Regardless of the cause of a dog’s fearful or aggressive behavior, a myth-corollary to our Myth #10 is that love alone will be enough to “fix” the problem. While love is a vital ingredient for the most successful dog-human relationships, it takes far more than that to help a fearful dog become confident, or an aggressive one become friendly. For more about rehabilitating a chronically fearful dog, see “Reducing Your Dog’s Anxieties,” April 2007.

Pat Miller, CPDT, is Whole Dog Journal’s Training Editor. She is the author of The Power of Positive Dog Training and Positive Perspectives: Love Your Dog, Train Your Dog.

Canine Earth Energy Healing

Who doesn’t have at least one quartz crystal, turquoise pendant, jade figurine, or amethyst geode? You probably have a strand of beads, too, maybe aventurine, bloodstone, citrine, coral, garnet, or sodalite. What you may not realize is that, according to crystal enthusiasts, these items can help both you and your dog improve your health, balance your emotions, and enhance your quality of life.

Whether they’re novelty items or elegant jewelry, crystals – precious and semiprecious gems as well as humble stones and river rocks – have been valued for thousands of years for their healing and aesthetic properties. The more people explore the use of crystals, stones, and gems, the more their dogs, cats, horses, and other animals are likely to benefit from this branch of energy medicine. Your pets can sleep near crystals, wear them, drink water that has been “charged” by crystals, and in other ways receive the energy that is said to be unique to each type of stone.

Dog Collar with Quartz Crystals

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Crystal healing is especially popular in the United Kingdom, where practitioners match human and animal clients with stones that best support their conditions. Sara Hope Brown, who lives in Fife, Scotland, designs clip-on crystals that attach to a dog’s collar. Her own white Standard Poodle, Jody, was a rescued dog with many emotional problems until Brown fitted her with quartz clip-ons. She reports that as a result of wearing the crystals, Jody is now calm and self-confident.

“Rose quartz is the crystal that balances the emotions,” she says. “I recommend it for rescued pets, pets who are on their own a lot, and animals who are nervous or worried. Amethyst crystals help animals deal with physical problems such as illness, skin conditions, arthritis, and the slowing down that accompanies old age. Clear quartz crystals produce positive changes in pets that improve behavioral problems like excessive barking or aggression.”

Do the crystals work? Brown’s satisfied clients think so. Consider Cleo, a three-year-old German Shepherd mix who was nervous and aggressive. According to her owner, Jean Beveridge, “One week after wearing the rose and clear quartz crystals, she has become much calmer and more at peace with those around her.”

Many users report that after wearing crystals, their dogs became relaxed, more amenable to training, and even friendlier. Angela White says that her dog, Jasmine, refused to go out for walks, didn’t like strangers, and never seemed to have much fun. That all changed when she began wearing a rose quartz crystal. “Now she happily goes for walks and even wanders over to people,” says White. “She often runs about playing, which she rarely did before. I was very skeptical about these crystals working, but they have made a difference to Jasmine.”

Christine Waddell bought an amethyst crystal for her 11-year-old Bichon, Biggles, who suffered from aching joints in his legs and hips. “Since putting the crystal on his collar,” she says, “his pain and discomfort have improved dramatically and he is moving much more comfortably. Recently the crystal fell off and within a short period I noticed that Biggles’ discomfort and pain had returned, though not so badly as previously. Needless to say, I had the crystal replaced and now have a happier dog because of it.”

Other guardians report improvements in eczema, rough skin, dry flakey skin, abscesses, sores, allergic reactions; and stress and anxiety.

“Energy healing works upon the electromagnetic field that surrounds us,” explains Brown, “which includes the emotional, mental, and physical bodies. Disruptions in the normal flow of energy eventually lead to physical illness and psychological symptoms. Pets who wear all three of my clip-on crystals are kept emotionally, physically, and mentally balanced, and results are seen in a short time.”

Using crystals
Hundreds of stones and crystals are used to improve health and happiness, so it makes sense to consult a reference book or crystal healing practitioner for help in selecting the right one for your pet.

One way to impart crystal energy to your dog is by attaching or placing a stone or crystal in a corner of her crate, on top of the crate, under her bedding (be sure that any sharp crystal points are padded so they don’t irritate), or on a sunny window sill. Stones can also be placed on the floor near your sleeping dog.

“Simply placing crystals in your home environment can help you and your pet reduce stress and fear, balance emotions, energize the physical body, clear energy blockages, calm the mind, and reach expanded states of consciousness,” says lapidary artist Michelle Buckler of Lewes, Delaware, who uses gold and silver wire to wrap or frame stones and crystals, making them easy to hang from or attach to crates, walls, windows, or furniture.

Because dogs are so sensitive to energy, she says, it’s important to be balanced, centered, and grounded yourself before positioning crystals. Introduce crystals in a quiet, comfortable environment, take some deep breaths, relax, and enjoy the experience. Watch for signs of stress in your dog, such as changes in ear or tail position, rising hackles, or turning away.

“Crystal healing can sometimes be too fast for the animal to integrate, or so intense that it causes pain and other discomfort,” she explains. “As crystal energy promotes rapid healing, easing off can help alleviate the stress caused by a healing crisis. When the healing is going well, the dog will show signs of comfort and affection, such as eyelids drooping, sighing, and a general softening of muscle tissues.”

An easy way to apply crystal energy to your pet, Buckler suggests, is to warm a crystal in the sun, then hold it a few inches from the injured or affected area and rotate the crystal clockwise. “Take your time,” she says. “Go slowly and breathe gently and evenly. If you are using an ice bag to reduce swelling, try adding a few tumbled smoky quartz crystals to the ice to help unblock over-active or inflamed areas.”

Vibrational animal healer Chris Anderson of Kittridge, Colorado, prefers river stones, which are often called balsamic stones when they are used in spas for “hot stone” massage therapy. “I warm the stones in hot water and then use them as an extension of my hand to massage the dog,” she says. “These stones have their own healing energy, and by going in deep with that extra warmth, you can really help sore muscles and arthiritic conditions. Look for your own smooth, flat river stones or buy them from a massage supply store.”

Another way to use crystals is to leave them in your dog’s water bowl or bucket, making sure they can’t be swallowed. The crystals are said to leave their energy signature in the water so that when the water is ingested, the energy goes where it is most needed. Note that some crystals, such as malachite, are for external use only; they are toxic if swallowed. Use only stones that are known to be safe in your dog’s water dish. Consult an expert if you aren’t sure.

As mentioned in “Canine Energy Healing Techniques” (WDJ November 2007), gem elixirs or crystal essences can be made and used the same way as flower essences.

Clearing and charging
It’s easy to think of stones and crystals as static and unchanging, but according to energy experts, rocks and minerals are alive in their own way. Stones can transmit or give off energy, absorb energy, channel and redirect energy, or simply support other stones.

Over time – in some cases a very short time – crystals that absorb or give off energy can lose their effectiveness or wear out. As a result of exposure to electromagnetic pollution, physical pain, negative emotional energy, or other imbalances, they may become darker, feel sticky to the touch, change color, or develop cracks, fissures, bubbles, cloudiness, or spots. On an energetic level, crystals feel weaker and less lively as these changes occur..

Fortunately, there are ways to cleanse or “clear” crystals, stones, and river rocks. Any of these methods can be used when you first obtain the item and again whenever needed. They include holding a crystal in both hands under cold running water for half a minute or more, burning dried sage leaves in a bowl or shell and passing the crystal through its fragrant smoke, soaking or dipping crystals in sage tea or salt water, breathing on crystals by exhaling slowly through the nose, leaving them out in the rain or sun, burying them in the earth for a few days or weeks, gently washing them with soap (not harsh detergent) and warm (not hot) water, or simply leaving them in the open air. To prevent damage to crystals that might be adversely affected by salt water or long-term soaking, try a brief soak or dip followed by a plain water rinse and air drying.

Crystals worn by dogs should be cleared often, such as every day, and stones used in massage or healing sessions should be cleared after every use to maintain their effectiveness.

To “charge” crystals with positive energies, clear them first and then repeatedly exhale on the crystals, leave them in direct sun for several hours, place them under a pyramid for a day or two, leave them outdoors in snowstorms, thunderstorms, or other dynamic weather conditions, or simply charge the stones with your concentrated intention, affirming that they are filled with love and a positive life force. Sara Brown charges her clip-on crystals with positive energy before sending them to clients, then recharges them daily by sending healing thoughts to animals wearing them.

Crystal collars
In Minneapolis, Minnesota, Mary Ann Field, a canine massage therapist, craniosacral therapist for humans, and Master of Crystalogy, has turned crystal collars for pets into a thriving business.

“The whole idea started 10 years ago with one of my Australian Shepherds,” she says. “She had so many physical problems that I wanted to find a way to help reduce her chronic pain. I knew a crystal expert and had already gotten good results for my own pain by using stones, so I thought crystals might help.”

Her husband, Brink, helped Field make crystal collars by stringing beads on cotton cord attached to copper wire clasps. Their two Aussies tested collars until the results were sturdy enough for daily wear.

“Both dogs were rescues,” she says, “and this gave us a chance to experiment with stones that addressed their emotional issues. We worked with our own dogs until we got the results we wanted, and then we started sharing the collars with friends.”

Now the Fields’ business, Pelli’s Castle Works, sells a variety of collars made for dogs of all sizes. These collars typically contain two or three types of stones that work well together, she says, sometimes using the dogs’ birth month as a guide.

“It’s interesting how at dog shows, people who pick up the different collars can feel their differences, even when they are new to crystals. Some of the collars feel calming, some are energizing, some are serious, and some just feel fun. Moss agate and blue lace agate are both soothing as well as pretty. Some of the heavier dark stones, like hematite or jasper, are grounding. Others, like tiger’s eye and citrine, are happy stones that channel positive energy. Whenever possible, we suggest showing different collars to dogs so they can select the one they want. You can also do this at home with individual stones.”

Australian Shepherds

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In addition to making birth month collars, Field custom-designs collars for dogs with specific issues. For dogs with separation anxiety, for example, she favors agates for their calming influence, red tiger’s eye for increased confidence, tiger iron for a feeling of safety and security, and lapis lazuli for the instantaneous release of stress.

“I’d use a lot of the same stones that people use when meditating,” she says, “like kyanite and chrysoprase. Then I’d add jasper. There are many kinds and colors of jasper, and they each have their own application, but they all support and strengthen the physical body. Because anxiety is often linked to blocked energy in the body, I’d finish with bloodstone to help clear the blocks.”

For dogs competing in agility or other sports, Field emphasizes howlite, a stone associated with communication. “It helps dogs concentrate and focus,” she says, “plus it helps them work well with their handlers, and it reduces the goofiness and distractibility that can interfere with competition. I’d put fluorite in there, too, because fluorite is called the IQ stone. It really assists the thought processes. Zebra stone is great for athletes because it helps with stamina, endurance, and support of the physical body. I’d probably add some protective stones like black onyx and hematite to help prevent injury.”

Dog Collar with Healing Crystals

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Field’s goal is to include as many appropriate stones as possible without making the collar overwhelming. “That’s why I check intuitively with the animals, to know what they’re comfortable with and what they can take,” she says.

She advises humans to keep an open mind when it comes to energy medicine. “Our attitude toward energy healing affects how it works. Dogs are extremely sensitive, and if you disapprove of this technique or know that it isn’t going to work, your dog will pick up on that and it will change the outcome.”

When dogs don’t like crystals
While most dogs take to crystals right away, not all of them do. Some dogs turn away from crystals and don’t want anything to do with them; some become restless and uncomfortable if a crystal is attached to their collar or they are fitted with a crystal collar.

“The first time this happened with one of our collars,” says Field, “the dog responded with extreme fatigue. Within five minutes, she laid down and couldn’t raise her head. It was as though the collar became extremely heavy. This dog was diagnosed with cancer a short time later; I assume her illness contributed to this extreme reaction.”

When a second dog showed a similar response, Field was ready. “What I learned was that when the stones absorb so much negative energy so quickly, the best way to use the collar is to put it on for a few minutes, then clear the stones for 24 hours or so, then put it on again for a few minutes, and clear them again.”

The second dog had serious health problems, but by following this strategy, he was able to wear the collar for a few more minutes each time. After two months, he was comfortable wearing it all day.

Field notes that in some cases, crystals trigger physical symptoms similar to homeopathy’s healing crisis – for example, a dog with a history of ear infections or hot spots might suddenly show these symptoms – in which case the crystals should be removed, cleansed, and reintroduced gradually.

“Best crystals” for dogs
If you’d like to experiment with crystals, consider these eight stones, which are highly recommended for dogs.

“Rose quartz is number one,” says Field. “It’s all about love and balance, and it’s very powerful. If you have five or six dogs and there are territorial issues, put rose quartz in their water dish.”

Amethyst, she says, is the second most powerful healing stone. “It’s very protective, soothes the emotions, and stimulates physical healing.”

Field’s third choice is fluorite, the IQ stone. “It helps with focus and concentration and it also absorbs and dissipates electromagnetic stress from our indoor and outdoor environments.” Quartz is next on the list. “There are several kinds of quartz and all of them protect, rejuvenate, energize, balance energy, boost immunity, and support the animal,” says Field. “I like quartz clusters rather than individual crystals because they’re more concentrated and effective.”

Citrine belongs in your dog’s crystal collection, says Field, because it gives off positive energy. “It’s all about happiness, well-being, prosperity, and everything that’s fun and upbeat.” Her next recommendation is blue lace agate, a soothing, calming stone that quickly releases stress. “Blue lace agate belongs in any house with multiple animals or wherever conditions are stressful. Like most of the stones on this list, it works wonders in the dog’s water bowl.”

Rhodochrosite, she says, is important for those with rescued animals. “It helps heal emotional and physical trauma.”

Her final recommendation is malachite. “This is especially good for dogs with physical injuries,” she says. “It helps relieve physical pain. Place it on the sore area and hold it there for a few minutes, then clear it, then reapply. It works almost like icing an injury. Do this for five or ten minutes at a time two or three times per day. Just remember that malachite is toxic if swallowed, so don’t leave it in your dog’s water bowl and never let your dog play with malachite crystals.”

Healing with Mother Earth
Since time began, animals have lived in direct contact with the earth. Their feet were always on the ground, they always breathed open air, and the sun and moon illuminated their days and nights.

Even after their human companions moved into houses, most dogs lived outdoors. Now people and their pets are indoor creatures. Sure, dogs go for walks and enjoy other outdoor activities, but, like most of us, our dogs often spend more than 20 hours a day inside.

According to energy experts, indoor living takes a toll. For one thing, it disrupts our exposure to unfiltered natural light, which is needed by the hypothalamus and other glands for endocrine balance and optimum health. Whenever possible, give your dog access to natural light by letting him stay outdoors or near an open window or on a screened porch. The location doesn’t have to be sunny; in fact, shade is preferable. What matters is that nothing interfere with the full spectrum of natural light, such as glass windows or patio doors.

For a fascinating look at the health benefits of unfiltered light, see Health and Light: The Effects of Natural and Artificial Light on Man and Other Living Things by John Ott. A pioneer of time-lapse photography, Ott discovered the vital role that natural light plays in the lives of plants and animals. Without it, plants can’t set fruit, animals have reproductive problems, and humans and animals develop a variety of modern illnesses, including cancer.

Canine Earthing Pad

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Indoor lighting adds to the problem. Glass windows screen out ultraviolet light, which is a crucial part of the spectrum, but fluorescent and incandescent bulbs are incomplete in other ways. Any lights that change the appearance of colors, so that red lipstick looks black or other colors look distorted, are an extreme example, but even “sunlight” bulbs that look white because the yellow part of the spectrum has been removed can adversely affect the body. It’s ironic that the fluorescent lights being touted for their energy efficiency may, according to light researchers, create a host of new health problems, while none of the bulbs labeled “full spectrum” include the complete spectrum of natural light.

For your dog’s continuing or improved health, outdoor natural light is best, followed by indoor window light, followed by standard incandescent bulbs, followed by “natural light” or “full-spectrum” fluorescent tubes or incandescent bulbs, followed by tinted fluorescent or incandescent lights, with energy-efficient fluorescents last on your shopping list.

Earthing
Another way in which 21st century people and dogs are disconnected from Mother Earth is by modern building materials. When we stand barefoot on bare earth, grass, sand, gravel, or concrete, our bodies absorb a constant flow of free electrons. When we’re indoors, in our cars, or walking on rubber-soled shoes, we’re insulated from the earth’s energy flow.

“Disrupting the natural flow of energy from the earth may have negative biological effects,” says health researcher Dale Teplitz of San Diego. “That’s because the earth’s free electrons are essential for synchronizing biological clocks, hormone cycles, and physiological rhythms.”

There may be a link between our lack of direct contact with the earth and common inflammatory conditions like arthritis, allergies, heart disease, diabetes, digestive disorders, hormone imbalances, and others.

If your dog spends most of the day and all of the night indoors, do what you can to increase his time outside. Resting or playing in a fenced yard is perfect, as are long walks, hikes, and swims. Direct contact with the earth may be especially important at night, when the earth’s effects on human and animal health is said to be most powerful.

For those not able to sleep on the ground, EarthingTM technology products provide contact with the earth even when you’re indoors. Bedding products containing conductive materials are connected to the earth by a wire that transmits the earth’s free electrons. Medical thermal imaging has shown in before-and-after photos of human subjects that Earthing significantly reduces inflammation in painful joints and increases blood flow to circulation-impaired hands and feet.

Earthing bed pads fit across a bed’s bottom sheet so that the sleeper’s bare feet rest on the pad, which plugs into a grounded outlet. Many who have used these washable bed pads report reduced pain and muscle tension along with improved sleep.

While a pet version of the Earthing bed pad is not yet commercially available, in the summer of 2007 Teplitz conducted an eight-week preliminary clinical trial of a prototype pad for pets. Questionnaires completed by caregivers showed that in most cases, indoor dogs with arthritis, back pain, fatigue, anxiety, hip dysplasia, chronic coughs, old injuries, or other common problems experienced improvements in energy, stamina, flexibility, muscle tone, calmness, pain levels, and sleep.

One trial participant is Chip, an eight-year-old retired racing Greyhound belonging to Roberta Mikkelsen of Pearl River, New York. Chip limped because of old racing injuries to all four legs and he was anxious and afraid of thunder, fireworks, and other loud noises.

After three weeks of sleeping on an Earthing pad, Chip stopped panting, pacing, shaking, and hiding during storms. Instead, he calmly walked into the bedroom and fell asleep. He even slept through Fourth of July fireworks. Because of leg pain, Chip couldn’t get into the car or jump onto the couch for an entire year. “Now, thanks to the Earthing pad, he does both all the time,” says Mikkelsen. “He’s more playful, jumps and runs more, limps much less, tolerates longer walks, and has far more energy than before.”

“Earthing is a new technology,” says Teplitz, “so we’re still collecting information, but it’s safe to suggest that any dog will feel better if he or she spends more time walking, playing, or resting on the bare earth.”

CJ Puotinen, a frequent contributor to WDJ, is the author of The Encyclopedia of Natural Pet Care, which describes several energy healing techniques. See “Resources,” page 24, for more information.

Download The Full January 2008 Issue PDF

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Make a Difference

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Never before have ordinary owners had the opportunity to make such a difference in the health of all dogs. I’m talking about the canine rabies vaccine challenge study that just got underway at the University of Wisconsin School of Veterinary Medicine in Madison. Dr. Ronald Schultz, a leading authority on veterinary vaccines and chair of the Department of Pathobiological Sciences there, has begun concurrent five- and seven-year challenge studies to determine the long-term duration of immunity of the canine rabies vaccine, with the goal of extending the state-mandated interval for boosters. These will be the first long-term challenge studies on the vaccine to be published in the U.S.

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“Because the USDA does not require vaccine manufacturers to provide long-term duration of immunity studies documenting maximum effectiveness when licensing their products, concerned dog owners have contributed the money to fund this research themselves,” explains Kris. L. Christine, co-trustee of The Rabies Challenge Fund, a charitable trust organized to fund the studies. “We want to ensure that rabies immunization laws are based upon independent, long-term scientific data.”

Yes, I’ve previously pleaded for your support of for this project. You see, while the canine rabies vaccine has undoubtedly saved countless lives, many attentive owners have observed its ability to cause serious side effects and trigger lifelong health problems in their dogs. Adverse reactions include auto-immune diseases affecting the thyroid, joints, blood, eyes, skin, kidney, liver, bowel, and central nervous system; anaphylactic shock; aggression; seizures; epilepsy; and fibrosarcomas at injection sites. I’ve seen it myself; the formerly stable health of my own dog, Rupert (now deceased), took a sudden dive after receiving a legally mandated rabies booster (required for licensing) at age 10.

Scientific data published in 1992 demonstrated that dogs were immune to a rabies challenge five years after vaccination. Dr. Schultz’s serological studies have documented antibody titer counts at levels known to confer immunity to rabies seven years post-vaccination. This data strongly suggests that state laws requiring annual or triennial rabies boosters for dogs are redundant.

W. Jean Dodds, DVM, a world-renowned veterinary research scientist and practicing clinician, serves as co-trustee of The Rabies Challenge Fund. “This is the first time in my 43 years of involvement in veterinary issues that what started as a grass-roots effort to change an outmoded regulation affecting animals will be addressed scientifically by an acknowledged expert to benefit all canines in the future,” says Dr. Dodds.

The Fund recently met its goal to fund the studies’ first year. However, annual budget goals of $150,000 for the studies must be met. See rabieschallengefund.org or call the Fund at (714) 891-2022 to learn how you can support this research – and all dogs who are legally required to receive the rabies vaccine.

-Nancy Kerns

Proper Dog-to-Dog Introductions in the Home

[Updated December 18, 2018]

DOG INTRODUCTION OVERVIEW

1. Evaluate your own dogs and make wise choices about new canine family members.

2. Plan your introductions – time, place, and process – to optimize your potential for success in adding a new dog to your existing pack.

3. Enlist the aid of a professional behavior consultant, or knowledgeable friend, to help handle dogs during introductions and ensure the safety of all participants.

You’re contemplating the addition of another canine family member to your pack. You’ve thought it through and are convinced that it’s the right time. Perhaps you have your eye on a homeless dog at your local shelter or a rescue dog staying temporarily in a foster home. Maybe the long-awaited puppy from that carefully researched breeder is due soon, or a friend or family member has asked you to take in a dog that they must rehome. However you plan to acquire your new canine companion, if you already have dogs in your home, you’ll need to prepare for the potentially stressful process known as “new dog introduction.”

Such was the case for us recently when my husband Paul, director of the Humane Society of Washington County, Maryland, warned me that he was falling for Missy, an eight-year-old red merle Australian Shepherd who had been surrendered by her owner to the shelter. Even before our decision to bring her home was final, knowing the importance of dog-dog introductions, I began planning the introduction process.

On-Leash Greetings

There are a number of factors to keep in mind that can increase the likelihood of a positive outcome when introducing a new dog into your home. A peaceful first introduction sets the stage for long term relationships. The more heavily you can weigh the odds in your favor for that first encounter, the greater your chance for lifelong peace in the pack. The factors to keep in mind include:

• Timing

• Location

• Number of skilled handlers available

• Knowing and understanding – to the greatest extent possible – the personalities and histories of all the dogs involved

With four dogs already in our family, including Dubhy, our dog-reactive Scottish Terrier, new-dog introductions aren’t simple. Fortunately, we’ve done it enough to know where the high-risk danger zones are with our pack, how best to avoid or overcome them, and how to make optimum use of the above factors.

Timing of Dog Introductions Matter

It’s best to add a new dog to your home when things are otherwise calm and reasonably stress-free. Allow ample time for a leisurely introduction process and a low-key adjustment period with adequate supervision. You’ll also need time to be able to iron out any wrinkles that may appear. This may mean taking time off work, in case your dogs don’t hit it off instantly. Holidays are generally not the ideal time for introductions unless, for you, “home for the holidays,” means lots of quiet time spent alone with your fur-family.

Of course, you can’t always control the timing. Many breeders and adopters have a fairly inflexible preconceived idea of the appropriate age at which a puppy should be transferred to his forever home. A friend or family member may be under personal pressures – landlord dictums, relationship issues, risks to children in the home, or municipal limit laws or breed bans – that require prompt rehoming.

Introducing Missy

A shelter or rescue dog may be facing a ticking clock that dictates a speedy adoption. An outbreak of parvovirus at Paul’s shelter meant that Missy had to come home posthaste, to avoid her exposure to the very contagious disease.

The timing could have been better. I was two days away from hosting a Reactive Rover Camp at my home. This meant that it would be out of the question to temporarily keep the barking Aussie in a stall in the barn – where my training center is located – in order to facilitate slow introductions over a several day period with Paul in attendance. I knew Missy’s barking would render the training environment too stressful for reactive dogs to stay sub-threshold and respond well to our counter-conditioning and desensitization program. We had to get the job done quickly, in order to transition the new girl into our family and our house.

The Best Place to Introduce Dogs

It’s best to introduce dogs in neutral territory – ideally outdoors, in a large, open, safely fenced space. The more trapped a dog feels, the more her stress will push her toward defensive aggression. Plus, when you do introductions in one dog’s territory, it gives him the home-field advantage, and you risk displays of territorial aggression.

Border Collie

Optimum options include a fenced yard other than your own, an off-leash dog park at low-use time (as in no other dogs present), a tennis court (caution – many tennis courts understandably prohibit dogs), or a large, open, uncluttered indoor area such as someone’s unfinished basement.

Our only large, fenced, outdoor open space is our backyard, to which our dogs had, naturally, already staked a territorial claim. Our next best choice for introductions was the training center – a 20′ x 80′ space with very little furniture. We opted for that space for Missy to meet three of our dogs, and the backyard for the fourth.

Number of Skilled Dog Handlers

Ideally, you’ll want one handler per dog. One skilled handler, that is. Someone who panics and intervenes unnecessarily can botch the whole job by adding stress to dogs who are still sorting out relationships.

Appropriate On-Leash Greeting

Barring skilled handlers, at least find handlers who are good at following instructions and don’t succumb easily to hysterical behavior. If you can’t find those, you’re better off with fewer handlers, although you should have at least one other person present, if for no other reason then to help you if the situation gets out of hand.

Life is rarely ideal. Because of our truncated time frame for introductions with Missy, our options for multiple handlers were limited. Paul had to work, my other trainers weren’t available, so it was up to me and my full-time associate, Shirley, to play referee for our pack introductions. I was only really worried about Dubhy’s reaction to Missy; it’s difficult to predict how he’ll respond to a new dog, but we have added two canines to our family successfully since the emergence of his dog reactive/aggressive behavior, so my hopes were high.

Each Dog’s Personality and History

You may not know much about the newcomer, especially if she’s a rescue or shelter dog. You should, however, have a pretty good sense of your own dogs’ canine social skills. Do they play well with others at the dog park? During playtime at good manners class? With their own packmates? How do they act with doggie visitors to their home? During chance encounters with other canines on the streets?

If you have reason to believe that your dogs are anything less than gregarious with conspecifics (others of their own species) due to a history of aggressive behavior with other dogs, or if you just aren’t confident about refereeing the introductions yourself, you might do well to engage the services of a qualified behavior professional. She will be able to help you read and understand your dogs’ body language, and optimize the potential for success. (For more information about translating canine body language, see “Understanding How Your Dog Communicates“, and “Properly Interpreting Your Dog’s Body Language“.

I hope you’ve already given great consideration to good personality matches when you selected your new dog. If you have a dog in your pack who likes to assert himself, you’re wise to choose a new dog who’s happy to maintain a lower profile in the hierarchy. If your current dog is a shrinking violet, she’ll be happiest with a new companion who doesn’t bully her mercilessly. If you have one of those canine gems who gets along with everyone, then you have more adoption options.

If you want your gem to be able to be “top dog,” then look for a soft, appeasing-type dog. If you don’t care where your easygoing dog ends up in the new hierarchy, then you have the entire canine personality continuum to choose from.

We knew our personal canine characters would present some challenges. A quick analysis revealed the following about the dogs we wanted to mingle with Missy:

  • Fifteen-year-old Katie, a very geriatric, arthritic, spayed, 45-pound Australian Kelpie, with a long history of asserting herself with the other members of the Miller pack. Literally on her last legs, Katie was approaching the last few weeks of her life, and had difficulty getting around. Her crankiness was exacerbated by her physical problems, but her mobility was so limited that she presented a low-level threat.
  • Seven-year-old Dubhy, an assertive, neutered, 25-pound Scottish Terrier, the loner of the group. He gets along well with the rest of the pack, but rarely engages in play with them. His reactivity developed when he was about 18 months old. I’ve worked with him to reduce his reactivity threshold distance to about three feet, although he’s better with small dogs.
  • Three-year-old Lucy, a lively, assertive, spayed, 35-pound Cardigan Welsh Corgi, who is the only one of the group who challenges Katie (regularly). She tends to act submissive when meeting a new dog, but guards certain places, objects, and me.
  • Two-year-old Bonnie, a soft, appeasing, spayed, 35-pound Scottie/Corgi mix who gets along with absolutely everyone.
  • Eight-year-old Missy, an appeasing, 40-pound female Australian Shepherd, possibly intact (not spayed), mild to moderate lameness in her right hind leg/hip. Missy had lived with other dogs before and has had at least four prior homes.

The Dog-Dog Introduction Process

I prefer introducing a new dog to the easier dogs first, one at a time. Assuming all goes well with the one-on-ones, I try a threesome, adding an additional dog as their behavior allows.

The process I use and recommend to clients is to start with dogs on leashes on opposite sides of an enclosed space. Try to keep leashes loose, if possible. Watch the dogs’ behavior. They should seem interested in each other, alert without excessive arousal. Ideally you’ll see tails wagging at half-mast; soft, wriggling body postures; play bows; ears back; squinty eyes; no direct eye contact. These are clear expressions of non-aggressive social invitation.

Warning signs include stiffness in the body; standing tall; ears pricked hard forward; growling; hard direct eye contact; stiffly raised, fast-wagging tails; lunging on the leash; and aggressive barking.

If you see social behavior, proceed with an approach until the dogs are about 10 feet apart. If they continue to show unambiguous signs of friendliness, drop the leashes and let them meet. I prefer to let dogs meet and greet off-leash; leashes tend to interfere with the dogs’ ability to greet normally, and can actually induce dogs to give false body language signals.

For example, a tight leash can stiffen and raise a dog’s front end, causing her to look more tense and provocative than she means to be, which in turn can cause the other dog to react on the offensive. A defensive dog who wants to retreat may feel trapped because of the leash and act aggressively because she can’t move away.

Initially, leave the leashes on, dragging freely on the floor, so you can grab them and separate the dogs easily if necessary. Monitor the greeting. You are likely to see some normal jockeying for position and some tension, as they sniff and circle, and then erupt into play. As soon as you can tell that they’re getting along, remove leashes and let them play unencumbered. Watch them! You want to ensure that the play doesn’t escalate into excessive arousal (which can lead to aggression), but remember that it’s normal and acceptable for dogs to growl and bite each other in play. As long as both dogs are enjoying the action, it’s a good thing.

If you see warning signs as you approach with the dogs on leash, you’ll need to proceed more slowly. Most commonly you’ll see behavior ranging somewhere between completely relaxed and friendly and outright aggressive. You’ll need to judge whether the intensity of the behavior is high enough that you need to stop and seek professional assistance, or low enough that you can proceed with caution.

If you do decide to proceed, interrupt any of the dogs’ prolonged, hard eye contact by having the handlers divert their dog’s attention with bits of tasty treats. Continue to work with the dogs in the others’ presence, watching for signs of decreasing arousal. Keeping the dogs as far apart as possible in the enclosed area, walk them around on loose leashes, gradually bringing them closer together until they are walking parallel to each other.

Get a list of even more tips on the best way to introduce dogs here.

Stay Calm!

It’s important that you stay calm and relaxed during this process. If you jerk or tighten the leash or yell at the dogs, you’ll add stress to the situation and make it more difficult for them to relax.

Anxious Dogs

Say you see signs that the dogs have relaxed with each other; this is where your experience and instincts come into play. You may decide to proceed with dropped-leash greetings. Or you may choose to end the introduction for the time being. It’s better to err on the side of caution, and do several more on-leash sessions to make sure the dogs are comfortable with each other. Meanwhile, you’ll need to manage the dogs so they don’t have free access to each other. If you’re not confident in your judgment about body language, you may choose to enlist the help of a professional at this point in the process.

If tensions between the dogs escalate or maintain at the same level of intensity despite your on-leash work over several sessions, the wise choice may be to look for a different dog to adopt into your home. Alternatively, you may want to do ongoing work with a behavior professional to try to make the relationship work, knowing that management may be a large part of your life for the foreseeable future.

Be careful if you see no interaction between the two dogs you’re introducing. What appears to be calm acceptance of each other may in fact be avoidance, where neither dog is comfortable with the other and they deal with it by not dealing with it. The problem with this is that sooner or later the dogs will interact if they’re both living in your home, and the discomfort may well develop into aggression. I really want to see some interaction between dogs in order to make a decision about adoption.

I chose to introduce Lucy and Missy first. Shirley held Lucy on-leash at one end of the training center, while I entered with Missy on-leash at the other end. Both dogs appeared relaxed and interested in each other. We approached to a distance of 10 feet and dropped leashes. The two dogs sniffed and circled, with Lucy offering appeasement behaviors: ears back, lowered body posture, corners of mouth slightly pulled back, and squinty eyes.

After a moment we removed the leashes, and the two engaged in some half-hearted play. Then Lucy walked over to the rack that holds dog toys, asking for me to throw her ball. I complied, and she happily chased the ball while Missy stayed at my feet. When Lucy raced back with the ball, Missy growled at her. Note to self: Missy has been here less than 24 hours and she’s already resource-guarding me. This could be problematic, especially since Lucy also displays owner-guarding and space-guarding behaviors. Hmmm.

Missy continued to display occasional mild guarding behavior while Lucy played. Her behavior didn’t escalate and Lucy didn’t take offense. I decided to table my concerns for the time being and proceed with the next introduction.

Bonnie was next. I was pretty unconcerned about this introduction; Bonnie gets along with everyone. My lack of concern was justified. We quickly proceeded to off-leash play, and Bonnie’s very appeasing attitude elicited no owner-guarding response whatsoever from Missy.

I then reintroduced Lucy to the pair, and all went reasonably well. Missy seemed less concerned with Lucy’s proximity to me with Bonnie in the mix, perhaps because her attention was divided.

We decided that Missy had probably had enough for one day, and put off the introductions to the two more difficult Miller dogs to the next day. The start of Reactive Rover Camp the day after that loomed large on the horizon. We had to get Missy out of the barn and into the house!

Missy’s introduction to Dubhy was my greatest concern. I proceeded with caution, and my fears were quickly justified. When I entered the training center with Dubhy, I had a pressurized can of citronella spray (Direct Stop/Spray Shield) in my pocket, high value treats in one hand, Dubhy’s leash in the other. As soon as he spotted Missy at the far end of the training center, Dubhy “turned on.” His head and tail went up, and his normally soft mouth got hard – I could feel his teeth on my fingers as he took treats from me. Happily, he remembered his “Reactive Rover” lessons, and quickly looked from Missy to me for the treats, but there was still tension in his body and arousal in his brain.

Shirley and I walked the two dogs around the training center, gradually bringing the dogs closer together. Dubhy’s mouth softened and his tail lowered as he grew accustomed to Missy’s presence. We eventually brought the dogs within three feet of each other, and Dubhy continued to be reasonably relaxed. I could see that he was still somewhat on alert, but I decided to make the leap, and told Shirley to drop Missy’s leash. Shirley looked at me as if I was nuts, but dropped the leash as requested. I dropped Dubhy’s, and he immediately lunged at Missy’s face with a ferocious snarl.

My heart sank as I leaped forward and sprayed Dubhy with a long blast of citronella to halt his attack. Missy had turned her face away from her attacker, and the spray shoots a very direct, narrow stream, so I could avoid punishing Missy for Dubhy’s aggression.

This was a deal breaker; I wasn’t willing to live with a lifetime of management between these two. If I hadn’t been on a tight schedule for integrating Missy into the household, I would have separated them with their leashes instead of using the spray, and reverted to a gradual introduction process. In fact, I wouldn’t even have gotten so close, given Dubhy’s tension and past history of dog-related aggression. I knew I was pushing the agenda already, by bringing them together quickly.

Dubhy stopped in his tracks and gave me a surprised look. The tension immediately vanished from his body and he glanced at Missy, then looked back at me. He stepped forward and sniffed Missy. She avoided eye contact by turning her head away, then stepped away from him.

Her response to him was so appropriate, and his changed body language so remarkable, that I stifled my first impulse to stop the introduction, and let them continue. Good thing! The interaction proceeded without any more aggression, and Dubhy has been perfect with Missy ever since; go figure! I don’t recommend using an aversive to try to make dog-dog relationships work. Any time an aversive is used there is a significant risk of increasing the negative association with the other dog: Dubhy could have been angrier with Missy if he perceived her as the cause of the spray. I was lucky that it had the opposite effect in this case.

My intent in using the spray with Dubhy was simply to interrupt the aggression to protect Missy. I fully expected that his behavior would preclude our adopting Missy into our home. I was surprised and grateful that it served to modify his behavior, apparently permanently – a happy accidental outcome of my crisis intervention.

As expected, Missy’s introduction to Katie in our backyard was uneventful, due to Katie’s mobility challenges. The aged Kelpie snarked at Missy briefly as the Aussie passed her on the back porch, but Missy, bless her, just ignored Katie’s rude behavior and headed out to the yard to play in the grass. One by one I released the other dogs to join Missy in the yard, all without incident. Missy was home.

Now, a few months later, Missy is doing well. She no longer has to deal with Katie, who passed away a few weeks after Missy’s arrival. Missy and Lucy occasionally posture over favored spaces in the house, but these incidents are minor and manageable. We’ve not had a whisper of inappropriate behavior from Dubhy toward Missy since his citronella experience – in fact, the two of them occasionally play together. Bonnie, as always, is no trouble at all. I hope all of your new family introductions go as well as ours did.

Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA, is Whole Dog Journal’s Training Editor. Miller lives in Hagerstown, Maryland, site of her Peaceable Paws training center. Pat is also the author of The Power of Positive Dog Training and Positive Perspectives: Love Your Dog, Train Your Dog.

Defeating the Resistance of Staph Infections Among Canines

Can the same drug-resistant illness that has been killing people in record numbers infect your dog? Can drug-resistant Staph infections be passed between dogs and humans? Is your dog at risk? Might your dog be a health hazard to others?

The answers are yes, yes, and maybe. Fortunately, there are many ways to prevent the spread of bacterial infections, including the drug-resistant kind.

Understanding MRSA
For decades, public health officials warned that the overuse of prescription antibiotics and antibacterial soap and hand wipes could lead to the growth of “supergerms,” drug-resistant bacteria that are difficult if not impossible to control.

They were right. In fact, just four years after penicillin became available in 1943, scientists documented microbes that could resist it. The first was Staphylococcus aureus, a ubiquitous bacterium that is usually harmless but which in susceptible patients can cause pneumonia, severe skin infections, or toxic shock syndrome.

By the 1990s, one strain became especially problematic. MRSA (pronounced MER-sa), or Methicillin-Resistant Staphylococcus aureus, got its name because the drug most commonly used to control it no longer worked.

MRSA in Canine

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Since then, MRSA outbreaks have been increasing in the United States, England, and other countries. In the U.S., infection rates tripled between 2000 and 2005. According to the Journal of the American Medical Association, an estimated 95,000 Americans contracted MRSA in 2005, resulting in 18,650 deaths, a number that surpassed that year’s HIV/AIDS death rate. In most cases, patients who died were elderly, already ill, or at risk because of compromised immunity, but MRSA has also killed the young and healthy, including, last October, teenagers in Virginia and New York.

Staph bacteria live on the skin or in the nose of about one-third of the world’s population. Those who harbor the bacteria but don’t have symptoms are “colonized” but not infected. They are carriers of the illness and can infect others.

Fortunately, Staph bacteria are usually harmless because the immune systems of most dogs and humans successfully keep the bacteria in check. Even if they enter the body, they cause only minor skin problems in most cases. In susceptible individuals, however, the bacterial population can suddenly increase and sicken its host.

Physicians check for MRSA by sending tissue samples or nasal secretions to diagnostic laboratories. Because bacterial culture tests take 48 hours and time is of the essence, tests that quickly detect Staph DNA are becoming widespread.

There are two types of MRSA: Hospital-Acquired (HA) and Community-Associated (CA).

HA-MRSA is alive and well in healthcare facilities, its original breeding ground. This strain, which is highly resistant to treatment with conventional drugs, causes internal infections in vulnerable patients, usually after gaining access to the body through catheters, surgical wounds, feeding tubes, invasive medical procedures, or lung infections. Those most at risk are the elderly, ill, and immune-compromised.

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CA-MRSA is less resistant to treatment but more dangerous because it grows rapidly in otherwise healthy patients. Its initial symptom looks like a red pimple, boil, insect bite, or spider bite. If left untreated, the swelling develops into abscesses that cause fever, pus, swelling, and pain.

Those most at risk of acquiring CA-MRSA include children, people of all ages who have weakened immune systems, those who live in crowded or unsanitary conditions, people who are in close contact with healthcare workers, and professional and amateur athletes who participate in contact sports. Sharing towels, razors, uniforms, and athletic equipment has spread MRSA among sports teams.

Dogs at risk
There have been many disturbing reports about MRSA, but the most alarming to dog lovers is the news that humans can infect dogs with this disease and vice-versa.

Michelle Rivera, who lives in North Palm Beach, Florida, contracted MRSA in 2005, the same year that 64 residents of Palm Beach County died of the disease. “I never once heard that my pets could be at risk because of my infection,” she says. “I was in a drug-induced coma for three weeks and bedridden for six months. This is one nasty superbug.”

Last October, the New York newspaper Newsday reported that MRSA cases are increasing among pets and that many pets have contracted the disease from their owners. Newsday quoted Patrick McDonough, PhD, an assistant professor at Cornell University’s veterinary college: “This is what we call reverse zoonosis. The organism is moving from people to animals. Once animals colonize it, we don’t know how long they maintain it, but this is one case where they are sharing what we have.”

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In the same article, veterinarian Lewis Gelfand, DVM, of Long Beach, New York, reported that he has seen 19 cases of MRSA in dogs during the past year. “I believe it is a significantly underdiagnosed and rapidly expanding problem,” he said. “We have been seeing dermatological cases as well as open sores.”

On November 9, 2007, Fox News Channel 40 in Binghamton, New York, reported that Cooper, a 100-pound Italian Spinoni belonging to Andrea Irwin, had been diagnosed with MRSA, which caused sores all over the dog’s stomach and legs.

“He had recurrent Staph infections since the fall of 2004,” Irwin told reporters. “He had been treated on and off for those infections, but they never cleared up totally. This July the vet decided it was time to take some skin cultures and send them to Cornell University, where Cooper tested positive for the human strain of MRSA.” Following successful treatment, he made a full recovery.

When Cooper was diagnosed, Irwin felt frustrated by the lack of information available about MRSA’s effect on dogs. “The only information I could find was from a website for the Bella Moss Foundation,” she said.

English actress Jill Moss created the foundation in memory of her Samoyed, Bella, who ruptured a cruciate ligament in July 2004 while chasing squirrels in a London park. What should have been a routine repair turned into a nightmare when Bella’s leg swelled with pus. Because the veterinarians who treated her didn’t recognize MRSA, Bella became the world’s first documented canine fatality from the disease. Pets-MRSA.com, the foundation’s website, is a leading information resource about MRSA’s effects on animals.

Preventing MRSA
Public health officials agree that the best way to prevent MRSA is with frequent hand washing. Scrub hands briskly with soapy water for at least 15 seconds before rinsing, then dry them with a paper towel and use a second paper towel to turn off the faucet and open the bathroom door.

When you don’t have soap and water, use a hand sanitizer that contains at least 62 percent alcohol or a small amount of disinfecting essential oils. The chemicals used in antibacterial soaps and hand wipes have been blamed by public health officials for the mutation of drug-resistant bacteria, so consider alternatives to soaps and wipes containing antibacterial chemicals.

Clean and disinfect all cuts, wounds, bites, stings, and open sores. Keep wounds clean and covered with sterile, dry bandages until they heal. Sanitize linens if you or your dog have any cut or sore by washing sheets, towels, and bedding in hot water and drying them in a hot dryer.

If you or your dog have a persistent skin infection, have it tested for MRSA to be sure you receive an antibiotic that is targeted to wipe out the bacteria, without promoting the resistant population.

Last, use antibiotics appropriately. Follow label instructions and don’t share or save unfinished antibiotics. Because antibiotics are not effective against viruses, don’t insist on getting a prescription for a cold or other viral infection.

Holistic care and prevention
Keeping colonized dogs from spreading MRSA and keeping at-risk dogs safe requires frequent hand washing, dog bathing, and keeping wounds and bedding clean.

Dogs that are MRSA carriers or who have close contact with someone infected with MRSA can pose a risk to small children, pregnant women, the elderly, and anyone with an active illness or open sore. Commonsense precautions include keeping your dog clean and not letting your dog lick everyone.

Probiotic supplements are recommended for MRSA prevention because beneficial bacteria are the immune system’s first line of defense. Products containing Lactobacillus bacteria, especially L. sporogenes, or other beneficial bacteria can be given before meals or according to label directions.

According to Mary G. Enig, PhD, one of the world’s leading experts on fats and oils, coconut oil’s medium-chain fatty acids inhibit the growth of many pathogenic microorganisms, including Staph bacteria. She sites research on two strains of S. aureus showing that monolaurin from coconut oil combined with the essential oil of oregano, which is itself a powerful disinfectant, worked better than the most potent antibiotic.

“This research showed,” she writes, “that these safe antimicrobial agents could be useful for prevention and therapy of Staphylococcus aureus and numerous other infections. It is now clear and scientifically validated that the inclusion of coconut oil in the diet could and should be utilized for its preventive and healing properties.”

The recommended amount of coconut oil for dogs is 1 teaspoon per 10 pounds of body weight per day, or up to twice that amount in divided doses if the dog is a carrier, has an active infection, or is exposed to someone with MRSA. Start with small amounts and increase gradually. (See “Crazy About Coconut Oil,” Whole Dog Journal October 2005.)

Many essential oils kill harmful bacteria, including cinnamon bark, clove bud, savory, thyme, lavender, tea tree, and the previously mentioned oregano.

Oregano essential oil (be sure the label says Origanum vulgaris, preferably wildcrafted or organic) can be given to dogs internally by placing drops in an empty two-part gel cap (available at health food stores), closing the cap, and placing it in a small amount of food so that the dog swallows it whole. Dogs do not like the taste! Use 1 drop of oregano oil per 50 pounds body weight once or twice per day. For small dogs, dilute 1 drop essential oil in ½ teaspoon vegetable oil and give ⅛ teaspoon per 10-15 pounds.

Cinnamon bark oil is a powerful skin irritant and should not be applied externally, but it can be added to laundry water to disinfect towels or bedding. All of the essential oils mentioned here, including cinnamon, can be dispersed in an aromatherapy diffuser or mixed with water (20 drops per quart or 5 drops per cup) and sprayed in the air, avoiding furniture and pets, or on kitchen and bathroom surfaces, doorknobs, crates, and pet bedding.

Manuka honey, mentioned in “Bee Products” (September 2007), is a proven Staph killer. A teaspoon to a tablespoon of honey, fed to a dog twice a day, can help him fend off harmful bacteria. Colloidal silver is another disinfectant that has been proven to kill S. aureus. It can be applied externally to cuts and wounds, sprayed directly on a dog’s coat (including the face, nose, and groin areas, where Staph bacteria tend to colonize), and taken internally.

For best results, use a product like Sovereign Silver, which contains very small silver particles in a base of pure water. For maintenance, give ¼ teaspoon per 20 pounds of body weight between meals every other day. If your dog is exposed to MRSA or any other contagious illness, give the same dose three times per day. Larger doses (consult the manufacturer) can be used to treat active infection.

One of the easiest ways to keep your dog clean is with microfiber cleaning cloths. These rough-textured polyester-polyamide cloths were originally developed for “clean room” applications in the semi-conductor industry. Used wet or dry, they attract and trap dust, dander, loose hair, and other particles, even fleas and unattached ticks. Microfiber fabric does not disinfect, but it picks up and removes bacteria. The cloths can be washed in hot water (add a few drops of cinnamon or tea tree oil or a blend of disinfecting essential oils) and dried in a hot dryer to kill microorganisms. Don’t use fabric softeners and dryer sheets when laundering microfiber cleaning cloths.

MRSA may be a frightening illness, but by following the simple prevention steps described here, you can help ensure that you and your dog enjoy an active, happy, MRSA-free life.

CJ Puotinen, a frequent contributor to WDJ, is co-director of the Hudson Valley Humane Society Visiting Pet Program in Rockland County, New York, and its annual Therapy Dog Camp. The organization’s members include therapy dogs and other animals. See HudsonValleyVisitingPets.com for more information.

Nighttime Dog Walking Visibility Products

Walking with a dog in the dark can present a number of challenges for many dog owners. You may not be able to see well in the dark; this can make you take a hard step off a curb or trip on a rise in the sidewalk. Finding your dog’s poop at night (so you can pick it up and dispose of it properly) is also a problem.

Although definitely in the minority, some people walk their dogs off-leash at night. I’ve met a number of people at night who were walking off-leash dogs on the wide trail that tops the river levee that parallels my town’s main street. If I wasn’t a dog person, I would probably be unnerved by the fast approach of a strange dog in the dark. And as it is, if the dogs were mine, I’d be worried that one of them would wander off or get lost if I couldn’t keep sight of them.

Nighttime Dog Walking Products

The most potentially dangerous and most common problem with nighttime dog walking, though, is that other people – people driving cars, especially – can’t readily see you or your dog. Whether you are crossing a street, or just walking across a driveway “safely” on the sidewalk, if a driver can’t see you, you are at risk of being hit.

Products for Every Problem – But None for All Problems

We rounded up a wide array of products that are intended to make nighttime dog-walking brighter. However, we found that most of them addressed only one of the various night visibility issues.

Puplight

For example, we found a number of collars, leashes, harnesses, bandannas, and vests that sported varying amounts of reflective material – the stuff that seems to shine brightly back at the source of the light. These products are matchless for helping a driver see you and your dog in his headlights, but they can’t help you see in the dark or help you or other lightless pedestrians see your dog.

We also found a lot of products that light up – including collars and leashes that twinkle, glow, and/or flash, and battery-operated lights that can be hung on a dog’s collar or harness. Many of these shine very impressively (and festively!) in the dark – but we found that their light is lost in the comparative glare of car headlights, making them suitable for some applications but not for safety from drivers.

For these reasons, you’ll want to choose a product that best suits your needs; we’ll describe what each product can and cannot do. If walking at night in the rain is your dog’s favorite thing to do, and the battery-powered light-up products tickle your fancy, consider the product’s ability to withstand moisture. We tested the products only once in the rain, and it was a light, brief shower. We’ve quoted the makers’ claims regarding the water-resistance of their products, but did not put these claims to a serious test. If no claim of “waterproof” or “water-resistant” is made for a battery-powered product, we wouldn’t use the product in even a light rain, due to the risk of shocking the dog. For the same reason, never leave a battery-powered product on or within reach of an unattended dog.

Ruffwear Vest

Purchasing Notes

Most of the products we reviewed were not made in the U.S. The only exceptions are products made by Glow Dog, Ultra Paws, and Sellwood Dog Supply.

Many of these companies sell directly to consumers as well as through retailers, so you might find their products in pet supply stores but can also purchase them from the maker. In a few cases, products we tested are not sold directly by their makers. The smart companies will direct you to an online or local retailer where you can buy their products. If this was the case, we included the maker’s contact information below.

Rarely, however, the maker neither sells the product directly nor provides consumers with the name of local or even online retailers where the products can be bought. Instead, they suggest that you “ask your local retailer for these products.” This was the case with one company whose products we liked: CMI Pets, maker of PetStrobe and Mini PetStrobe (pendant lights that hang from a dog collar).

Visiglow

We are loathe to include a glowing (sorry!) review of a product unless we can direct you to a specific place where the products can be purchased.

For this reason, you won’t see the products named above in our review, even though they had certain attributes we liked. For example, the PetStrobe lights made by CMI Pets, which contain four LEDs, can flash in different colors and at two different speeds (or just stay on) and are waterproof to boot. We can’t include them in this review since we can’t tell people where to buy them! Oh well, the metal clips were tiny and difficult to open and close anyway.

We tested about another half-dozen nighttime visibility products that didn’t meet our satisfaction; the wouldn’t have even earned one paw on our rating scale (on page 12). One light-up collar we rejected was weighted down with a cucumber-sized battery pack. One could plug the collar into a charger to recharge this large battery, which is a cool feature, but you’d have to overlook the fact that a dog wearing such a device could get a sore neck from the weight of the thing!

We rejected other products that contained blinking lights. Some turned off spontaneously, due to a faulty design or workmanship. Another contained batteries that could not be replaced. See the charts on page 15 and 16 for more details, including price and purchasing information, about each product we reviewed.

Visiglow Lights

Every dog owner who helped us test this product asked if they could keep it after our trial was completed. There really isn’t any better testament to a product’s ease of use and usefulness. What we like: The PupLight hangs from a specially designed clip that helps hold the light away from the dog’s coat (in case of an especially shaggy dog) and allows the owner to change the angle of the beam of light to his or her preference. The clip can be strapped to the wide, adjustable, elastic collar provided by the manufacturer or to a regular flat collar. All of our testers liked using the light on the collar provided, so they could quickly pull it off over the dog’s head to use as a flashlight when needed, without turning the dog loose.

We really like the fact that the PupLight uses AAA batteries, so we can use environmentally friendly rechargeables. Single-use batteries are a major source of toxins in landfills and waste disposal incinerators.

Dog E Lights

In terms of sheer attractiveness at night, this product takes the cake. RuffWear used two strips of “electroluminescent wire” – one going down the length of each side of the coat – powered by two AAA batteries (and RuffWear encourages owners to use rechargeables, which we appreciate). The flexible wire is cool to the touch but glows with a light similar to that produced by neon, in a pretty shade of blue. Please note that the light does not provide the brightest light of the products here. The wire is stitched in place over a narrow strip of Scotchlite reflective material.

What we like: The vest makes it easy to see the dog in pitch black and in headlights. It can be set to blink on and off or stay lighted. If you remove the battery pack from its pocket in the back of the vest, you can hand-wash and line-dry the vest.

Harness by Dog E Lites

What we don’t like: It’s pricey compared to other products here. We wish the lighted and reflective strips were wider, for even greater visibility.

Visiglo makes three different types of battery-powered light-up collars and leashes. “Sport” models feature “pulsating electro-luminescence” – similar to the neon-looking strip of light used in RuffWear’s Lighted Lab Coat, but, um . . . pulsating. “Fashion” models are not quite as bright, but feature a flashing “electro-luminescent animation” with bones or pawprints. Brightest of all are the “LED” models – which utilize “cascading light-emitting diodes” – extremely small but extremely bright flashing lights.

What we like: If we were looking to make our dogs as stylish as possible in a low-light situation, or as highly visible as possible in a super-dark environment, we’d use Visiglo products. They are bright and frenetic. The lights in the “Sport” and “LED” models are visible from either side of the flat leashes (the lights on the “Fashion” models are visible from only one side of the leash). Each type of model is available in several colors and patterns.

What we don’t like: As someone who suffers migraine headaches, which are often aggravated by bright light, I could barely stand to test these products in an extremely dark environment; they are just too bright and frenetic, especially the models that use LED lights. In fact, their packages warn that they are not appropriate for use by people who suffer from photosensitive epilepsy! It seemed to me that the leashes even put off some of our more sensitive test dogs (the light of their own collars doesn’t shine right in their eyes, of course). They are less offensive in low-light (rather than pitch-black) situations. A “constant light” mode is not available.

The Beacon

As a minor point, I’m not crazy about the type of metal snaps used on the leashes, and I found the plastic clips used on the collars to be rather unwieldy. (This last feature is a necessary evil, since the snap also houses the collar’s batteries and on/off button. But it’s not like these products are meant to be any dog’s everyday collar or leash.) Finally, the Sport and Fashion models make tiny beeping noises when turned on – which went unnoticed by all but our most sensitive and noise-phobic test dog.

Spotlit

Dog e Lites makes a wide range of products featuring twinkling LED lights. Again, though these lights are tiny, they can be seen from a great distance in the dark, though their shine can be lost in low-light situations. Fortunately, Dog e Lites also includes a strip of reflective material on each collar, leash, and harness, to provide visibility in the glare of car headlights.

Nighttime Dog Walking Products

0)]

What we like: We especially liked the step-in harness, which has reflective material on each strap, and lights across the front. We put this harness on a black dog to illustrate how much more visible it makes him at night.

What we don’t like: The lights and reflective material appear on only one side of the leash, which is also a little narrow, making it less comfortable in the hand.

The Beacon is the first of several pendant-style lights, meant for hanging on a dog’s collar or harness, that we tested. This type of light is meant to help the dog be seen, but doesn’t do anything to help a dog owner see where she is going.

The Beacon is a very sturdy, compact, bright light. It contains four LED lights inside a red plastic lens, and is made to fasten in any number of ways to a dog or dog handler. It comes equipped with a ring (for hanging like an ID tag on a dog’s collar ring) and a plastic clip, which can be used to clip the light onto the dog’s collar, harness, leash, or coat – or to his owner’s pocket or bait bag. The light can blink slowly or fast, or burn steadily.

Nighttime Dog Walking Products

1)]

We gave this pendant-style light a slightly lower rating for a couple reasons. First, it’s more difficult to turn on and off; you have to press the button really hard sometimes to get it to work. This made us think, several times, that the batteries were dead. Also its metal clip is difficult to open and close.

On the plus side, it is available in red or white; we like the white light. When pressed into service as a miniature flashlight, it helps an owner see better than the red light. With its rounded shape, we suspect that this light is also more comfortable for the dog to wear, as it bobs against his chest as he moves. The light can blink or burn steadily.

Nighttime Dog Walking Products

2)]

We tested five different Glow Dog reflective products: a vest (they call it a “jacket,” but it really provides only reflection, not warmth), a six-foot leash, a collar, a bandanna, and what Glow Dog calls a “Bunchie” – kind of a dog-neck-sized scrunchie. Each of these products is made with fabrics that have been completely covered with a “patented retro-reflective technology” the maker calls “Illuminite.” When a light shines on this material, the entire surface reflects brightly. All of the products show up extremely well, but the jacket provides an entire dog-shaped reflective silhouette that is instantly recognizable to a driver.

Once again, we found that our testers did not want to return these products – a great testimonial.

What we like: Glow Dog products are made with nice, light-weight but strong materials. They are available in several colors; all reflect at night in a bright white color. The maker also offers dozens of products for human use; see illuminite.com.

What we don’t like: There isn’t much to say here, except to note that the Glow Dog collar is for visibility only; it lacks a ring to clip a leash onto.

Nighttime Dog Walking Products

3)]

Ultra Paws offers two perfectly nice reflective safety products for dogs: a lightweight vest and a medium-weight, fleece-lined coat. Each has two ¾-inch-wide strips of reflective material sewn to each side of the garment. The products provide more reflective material than many competitors we saw advertised, but not nearly as much as Glow Dog’s products.

We purposely photographed these products on a black dog to show how much more visible a dog is when wearing a reflective product when walking near cars at night.

There is nothing fancy about this reflective collar (see photo below), which is made by Sellwood Dog Supply as part of its made-in-the-USA Gold Paw Series. But there is nothing shoddy about it, either! And, in contrast to Glow Dog’s collar, it is made with a sturdy ring to fasten a leash to. It’s a well-made, attractive collar that reflects well at night, and could work well as a dog’s everyday collar, too.

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Quackery? Or Life-saving?

Reading Whole Dog Journal is one of the most frustrating experiences I have each month. Side-by-side with the outstanding training articles by Pat Miller and Editor Nancy Kerns’ excellent series on dog food and diet, you publish the most mind-numbing foolishness about alleged alternative healing and medicine. Your training as a journalist was seriously deficient if it didn’t teach you to investigate all such claims before your implicit endorsement by printing them.

For me the final straw was how you fell for the equivalent of a party trick, convincing you of the effectiveness of kinesiology, as related in your Editor’s Note in the November issue. That, plus the ridiculous comment by Wendy Volhard, “If you can accept Einstein’s theory that all matter has energy, sooner or later you will believe in kinesiology, too.” I challenge Ms. Volhard to site the reference for this ridiculous reduction of Einstein’s world-changing ideas, as well as the fairy tale logic that a therapy works, if only you believe in it.

In the 1980s thousands of people believed quartz crystals could cure diseases, including cancer. Why aren’t they used today at Memorial Sloan-Kettering Cancer Center? Belief is the enemy of analysis. In science and medicine, you either have the data that supports your position or you do not.

Canine Energy Medicine

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If people wish to waste their time and money on alt-med for themselves instead of pursuing evidence-based medicine, that’s their mistake (and it can be quite costly). Delaying proper medical treatment by pursuing the magical thinking of alternative and complementary medicine can seriously degrade the outcome when these therapies fail. I believe we owe it to our canine companions to rely on proven medical treatment by qualified doctors and technicians.

In support of my position I would encourage readers to explore Robert Todd Carroll’s Skeptic’s Dictionary site at skepdic.com; the Quackwatch site of Stephen Barrett, MD, at quackwatch.com; and the wonderful podcast, Quackcast, at quackcast.com.

Joe Pedoto
Stratford, CT

Thanks, Joe, for that view. I very much appreciate that you find some value in Whole Dog Journal’s training and nutrition articles, even if you are uninterested in (or aggravated by!) the information we publish about alternative and complementary healthcare.

I wouldn’t expect anyone to agree with or have a use for everything we discuss. Our goal is to provide readers with good information about as many healthcare options as possible. In our experience, informed owners, armed with a wide variety of healthcare tools – from conventional and unconventional medical schools – are best equipped to avoid wasting time and money on treatments that don’t work.

I have been reading Whole Dog Journal for the past year and have enjoyed it tremendously. It offers a nice balance of numerous subjects and approaches to those subjects that I find refreshing. I’m excited about your recent series on energy modalities and wanted to mention another one: Healing Touch for Animals (HTA; see healingtouchforanimals.com).

I used energy modalities in conjunction with conventional medicine for years but never thought about using energy modalities on animals (other than acupuncture by our vet). I enrolled in HTA and started the program to help my dogs, who suffered from allergies and other minor ailments. Not long after I started the program, both of my dogs were diagnosed with thrombocytopenia (the only common link was a rabies vaccine they had received). Simon was able to fight it on his own. However, Daisuki was critical. The vet explained we needed to start chemo and a bone marrow medication immediately. If Daisuki responded to the drugs, she would be on them for at least six to eight months.

By the end of the third week it became clear that she was not responding. She had a horrific reaction to the bone marrow medication, which resulted in six more drugs for the side effects. Also, her blood counts were not responding. The vet said he would give her one more week and if her red blood cells reduced by even 0.5 percent she would need an emergency transfusion, probably spleen removal, possibly bone marrow transplant, etc.

I told him about HTA the first week and he asked me not to do it because he didn’t know enough about it and didn’t want me stimulating her immune system while he was trying to destroy it with chemo. The third week I explained it would regulate her immune system so her body could start the healing process. He said to go ahead and try it; “Why not?” were his specific words at that time, since she wasn’t responding to the drugs.

I did four treatments on her that next week and two on Simon. We returned for their blood work the following week (week 4). Simon’s results were back in the normal range, which was understandable, since he was not that far out of range. However, every blood count on Daisuki was back in normal range – not just improved, but in range. We were all stunned.

My vet started weaning Daisuki off the drugs that day and she was completely done with all medications by the end of the second month. At this point I knew I wanted to get certified in HTA. I’m currently through the program and have about six months to go with my certification.

HTA is taught as a complementary method in conjunction with conventional care. The founder of HTA came from the veterinary world and realizes this is not a replacement for conventional medicine. It is an amazing modality.

Shelley Wallen
Highlands Ranch, Colorado

Keeping Your Dog Warm and Dry This Winter Season

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Well, I’ll start off by admitting that there is no single perfect dog coat. Or, I should say, if there is a perfect coat, I haven’t seen it. Fortunately, there are plenty of very good coats that can suit most of any dog owner’s selection criteria.

We actually started our quest by looking for two different coat types: a super-warm coat, and a garment that would keep a dog dry in the hardest rainfall. We tried (but didn’t think it would be possible) to find a coat that provided extraordinary insulation and the ability to keep a dog dry (and we were right; we did not find such a coat).

When we started rounding up dog coats to test and review, we looked for products with the following features:

 

  • Ability to keep the dog warm, dry, or both.
  • Good, comfortable, secure fit. We looked for coats that stayed on the dog without constant adjusting and straightening, and that didn’t rub hairless or raw spots on the wearer’s shoulders or neck.
  • Easy to put on, take off, and adjust for fit. We wouldn’t promote a coat that requires instructions to put on the dog. Neither are we fans of coats that can’t be adjusted, or that offer only a very small range of adjustment.
  • Ability to survive laundering in good shape.
  • Quality of workmanship and materials. A good dog coat, like a good coat for humans, should be able to survive more than one winter!
  • Visual appeal. This is last on our list of requirements, but first (and seemingly the only criterion) on some manufacturers’ lists. There are an extraordinary number of cute, trendy, and even striking outfits available for dogs. Unfortunately, most of them just don’t meet the most important performance requirements (keeping the dog warm, dry, or both).
    Winter Coat

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    After finding coats that appeared to meet our selection criteria, we ordered the products for testing. We used four different thin-coated dogs for testing: two Greyhounds (with very different measurements), an elderly German Shorthaired Pointer, and a senior Catahoula/Greyhound-mix.

Not all of the coats we tested are available in sizes to fit dogs of any and all sizes. All of our test dogs required medium to large sizes, which were readily available. Giant and tiny sizes are harder to find from every coat maker.

Belted Coat

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Each manufacturer uses different criteria for determining the appropriately sized coat – weight, in some cases, and neck, girth, or back measurements in others – and we ordered coats with a specific test-dog recipient in mind. In some cases, though, the coats fit one of the other test dogs better than the intended recipient. Had we used just one dog to test the coats, we would have had to return some of the products and ask for a different size.

Don’t count on being able to return coats that you try on your dog and then return due to poor fit. Although none of the companies we ordered coats from told us this in advance, we found that many will not accept returns of products that have dog hair on them! It’s understandable, but regrettable. Before you place an order or hand over your plastic, ask about the seller’s return and replacement policy.

Nylon Turnout

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Reality bites
As I mentioned, we didn’t find a perfect product. We found coats that were warm and exquisitely made, but which fit our test dogs poorly. We found coats that fit beautifully, but were not very warm. We found raincoats that kept dogs dry, but were a nightmare to put on and take off.

Although we like all the coats that we feature in the following pages, we appreciate them for different reasons. Your dog and his special needs will have to inform your choice, based on the features of each coat. Each is ideally suited for a different climate, purpose, and type of dog.

Apache River Dog Coat

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Some fabrics will best protect a dog from a dry, windy cold; others are better suited for damp weather. Some coats were designed with active, exercising dogs in mind, with large “arm holes” that facilitate movement or a hole sewn in where the leash can attach to the collar without displacing the coat. Others are better suited to keeping a sedentary dog warm and may even discourage his full range of motion. Still others have large buckles that would be quite uncomfortable if a dog were to lie down while wearing the coat.

Finally, some designs are clearly intended for deep-chested, narrow-waisted dogs like our Greyhound testers. Others would better suit block-bodied dogs such as Golden Retrievers.

With these considerations in mind, take a look at the high-quality coats we did find. We’ll start with the coats intended for cold and mildly wet (but not super-rainy) weather, and look at the raincoats last.

Polar Coat

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The two coats on this page came closer than any others to meeting all of our selection criteria. This coat’s biggest drawback? Its maker designed all their coats for long, narrow, deep-chested dogs like Greyhounds. Owners should lobby them to design for dogs of other shapes, because this coat offers some great features.

What we like: Its outer shell is waterproof, with a soft fleece inner layer; note, however, that the chest and neck section is fleece for maximum comfort (but this section is not waterproof). The turtleneck can be rolled down when it’s warm, or pulled over the dog’s ears in extremely cold weather. A leash opening is sewed in, and a reflective patch is sewn across the rump. The coat is easily put on and taken off the dog, and has a wide span of adjustment. Three Velcro straps fasten the coat on one side, with another, single band of Velcro on the other side to help keep the coat from slipping. The coat fits long dogs well and securely. We love it.

Panache Polarfleece Coat

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What we like: Waterproof shell, an insulating middle layer, and thick, fleecy material inner layer. The dog’s chest is well covered. The front has large buttons, which are decorative but can be fastened and unfastened if your dog objects when you pull a coat over his head. The design suited our deep-chested Greyhounds as well as the blockier Catahoula-mix, and didn’t impair the dogs’ ability to move well and stride out. The collar can be folded up for slightly more warmth and protection, without getting in the way of the dog’s collar and a leash. The coat fastens with a large plastic snap/buckle, which rides on a wide strap that allows for a wide range of adjustment. Elastic loops are sewn on the inside of the back leg area, to help prevent the rear end of the coat from tipping off the dog to one side.

Cloud Chaser Soft Shell Jacket

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A minor criticism: The elastic rear leg loops are narrow and easily stretched out.

The coat adjacent and the one to its right are very similar, even down to the companies’ website addresses. We like this coat a tad better.

What we like: Water-repellent shell, an insulating layer, and fleece inner layer. Fits all body shapes well. Rear end of coat has darts sewn in to make the coat wrap around the dog’s rump nicely. Front fastens with Velcro and a buckle. Wide range of adjustment. Free repairs for a lifetime.

What we don’t like: The dog’s chest is not covered. Drip dry only.

These two coats (above and above right) are comparable in terms of their features, too. We like this one a little more. Both are made with fleece, pull over the dog’s head, and are intended to keep the dog toasty in cold but not windy or wet weather.

What we like: This coat is lined with a smooth Lycra Spandex layer. Fastens with a wide swath of Velcro on both sides, resulting in a large range of adjustment. The dog’s chest is well-covered. Back leg straps keep coat from slipping to one side.

As you can see, this coat just isn’t designed or sewn to fit the dog as nicely as the previous coat.

What we like: Water- and wind-resistant nylon shell, Polartec insulating layer, and fleece inner layer. Fits all body shapes. Wide range of adjustment.

What we don’t like: The dog’s chest is not covered. Large plastic buckles would be uncomfortable for a sleeping dog. Front closes with Velcro only.

Rain Coat

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What we like: Elegant cut, nice fit. You can’t tell from this photos, but the dog’s chest is covered by a section that goes between the dog’s front legs. High turtleneck can fold down. Fastens with a single strap that has a wide range of adjustment; fits all body types well.

What we don’t like: For ultra-cold weather (our goal for this review), this coat is a little light. For mild winters, it would be perfect.

This is a really unique product, unlike any seen elsewhere. It’s meant to work kind of like a lightweight, breathable wetsuit, fitting close to the dog’s skin and trapping core heat, even if the dog and the coat get wet. Consider it as a light, comfortable, no-slip insulating layer for a very active dog.

What we like: Dog’s belly and tummy are well-covered. Reflective stripe sewn along each side.

What we don’t like: No adjustment; you have to get the right size. Fastens with a zipper along one side.

The Slicker

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These two (above and above right) are the only two non-insulating raincoats we tested. Again, this maker designed all its coats for long, narrow, deep-chested dogs like Greyhounds.

What we like: Coat is completely lined with a lightweight mesh material. A leash opening is sewed in, and a reflective patch is sewn across the rump. Attached hood, pleated front, and fitted sides and rump help water run off your dog! Hood can be folded back if preferred. The coat is easily put on and taken off, and has a wide span of adjustment. Two Velcro straps fasten the coat, one on either side; strap position allows for easy movement.

Winter Coat

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What we like: Waterproof shell with a seamless fleece inner layer. Very well-made in Canada. Reflective piping on every seam. Nice fit on our block-shaped test dog; did not shift or rub.

What we don’t like: The dog’s chest is not covered. Range of adjustment is not wide. Only Velcro fasteners in front and belly.

What we like: Detachable hood (with Velcro). Coat covers chest and tummy well, and can be tucked up close to the body with an elastic drawstring just behind the dog’s ribcage. Covers dog’s front legs, too. Comparatively inexpensive.

What we don’t like: Fastens with long Velcro strip down spine, which can be difficult to fasten on a wiggly dog and leaks water in a driving rain. Dog’s front legs must be threaded through sleeves.

 

Time Flies – 10 Years of Whole Dog Journal

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This issue represents the end of our tenth year of publication; I can barely believe it. Time has flown by.

When Whole Dog Journal was new, many trainers (much less dog owners) were just beginning to learn about positive training. Thanks to guidance from trainer (and monthly contributor) Pat Miller, who was an early adopter of these methods, Whole Dog Journal burst from the publishing gate as an avid and informed proponent of the most effective dog-friendly training techniques.

Nancy Kerns

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Fortunately for our dogs, these popular methods have become common. Today, it’s a bigger challenge to detect and avoid the trainers who use new-age, positive descriptions of their old-fashioned, force-based methods. As always, we encourage you to seek out and support the training professionals who are experts in animal behavior and learning. That’s because it’s our ongoing mission to educate our readers about the easiest and fastest ways to teach their canine companions to behave well, while preserving and protecting their loving, trusting bonds.

Holistic veterinary medicine is more popular than it was a decade ago, too. However, it’s still an ongoing challenge for owners in many parts of the country to find competent practitioners of complementary and alternative modalities. Our goal here is to offer concrete, complete, and concise information about alternative and complementary therapies so that owners can put it to immediate use to benefit their dogs.

Nutrition is an area of special interest to Whole Dog Journal, and to many dog owners. We’ve offered annual reviews of dry and wet foods since Whole Dog Journal’s inception, with less-frequent reviews of raw frozen diets and treats. We plan to increase the frequency of our reviews of less-conventional diets, treats, and chews.

We’ve also offered frequent analysis of breaking news about the pet food industry, and documented many changes in this market; when we began publishing, there was but a handful of “super-premium” dog foods on the market, and none that included organic or other verifiably top-shelf ingredients. We like to think our scrutiny and promotion of this sector of the market has contributed to its spectacular growth; today, there are hundreds of truly top-quality foods to choose from, and terrific, healthy products being introduced daily. We look forward to continuing to introduce these products to our readers.

Many dog-care and -training products have also been reviewed in Whole Dog Journal over the past decade, including a number of innovative products we can’t imagine living without today, such as the Buddy Bowl (a no-spill water bowl), head halters and front-clip harnesses, any number of dog ID products, and top-quality dog beds. It’s time-consuming to track down and test products, but it’s also one of the most rewarding things we do!

Thanks so much for your support throughout these past 10 years! I look forward to bringing you much more in-depth and high-quality dog-care information in the next decade.

-Nancy Kerns

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