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The Dangers of Vinyl Dog Toys

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[Updated August 2, 2017]

VINYL EXPOSURE TO DOGS OVERVIEW

– Don’t buy vinyl toys for your dog, especially if you have a puppy or a breeding adult dog.

– Notice where you’ve got vinyl in your house, car, and elsewhere in your life so you can eliminate as much of it as you can, to reduce your dogs’, your kids’, and your own exposure to it.

– Vacuum your home and car regularly to remove some of the phthalate-laden dust.

– Organize or support efforts to establish laws that protect both children and pets from exposure to problematic phthalates.

A few years ago, I bought a special bed to help Caleb, my Bouvier des Flandres, live more comfortably with his arthritis. When filled with water, it was supposed to provide him with a cool and supportive cushion. It sounded great.

I looked forward to giving the bed to Caleb. But the moment I took it out of the box, it gave off a powerful odor. Even the cardboard box smelled of it. The odor was so intense that I had to back away from it.

Within minutes, the sharp, distinctive smell penetrated my entire house. I wondered whether the bed might be outgassing industrial chemicals, although I didn’t know at the time exactly what kind they might be. What I did know was that my sensitive nose couldn’t stand the smell – and if I couldn’t stand to inhale around the bed, I certainly wasn’t going to let Caleb snooze on it! So I whisked the bed outside to the front porch, hoping that passing breezes and ultraviolet rays from the sun would diffuse the source of the odor so that I could bring it back inside and give it to my guy. But it smelled as bad a week later as it had on Day One. Following my intuition that such a thing was not good for us, I took it back for a refund.

Turns out, it’s a good thing I trusted my instincts. The bed was made of vinyl – and the substances in vinyl that smell so awful are suspected of causing all sorts of health problems in animals and humans alike.

If Vinyl Isn’t Safe for Kids . . .

Over the past few years, public concern has increased about the safety of vinyl products, particularly in items made for kids. This concern has focused on the presence of certain additives used almost exclusively in vinyl. In response, nine major governments from around the world and many more municipalities have now banned or advised against the use of these additives in children’s toys, and sometimes also in childcare items. The state of California (2007), the European Union (EU, 2005), Japan (2003), Fiji (2000), Argentina (1999), and Mexico (1998) have passed laws enforcing such restrictions, and the Philippines recently introduced legislation in its Senate. Canada (1998) and Australia (1998) have asked for voluntary measures or issued health advisories about additives in vinyl, and Australia has just conducted a new investigation into the matter.

Vinyl Dog Toys

These governments have acted because they are convinced of the risk that additives will transfer out of vinyl products and release enough toxins to damage a child’s physical development. They believe this because recent studies have shown that the plasticizers used to soften vinyl interfere with the development of the very young and can do other damage, as well. The conclusions of these studies have been drawn from testing on animals. But even though tests based on animals have spawned legislation to protect human babies and children, it appears that animals themselves benefit from little, if any, similar protection. This discrepancy has grabbed my attention. It should also grab yours.

What is Vinyl?

“Vinyl” is the common name for polyvinyl chloride, or PVC. It’s a cheap plastic that’s used to make all kinds of stuff. In fact, it’s just about everywhere. You and your dog almost certainly have vinyl in your lives.

Chlorine constitutes one of vinyl’s primary chemical building blocks. It’s well known that under certain conditions chlorine produces some of the most dangerous pollutants humans have yet created: dioxins. Dioxins cause cancers, reproductive and developmental problems, and immune system damage in animals; they also spread around the environment and concentrate further as they work their way up the food chain.

Dioxins are by-products of several significant industrial processes, one being the manufacture of vinyl. And vinyl produces dioxins not only when it’s made, but also if it ends up being incinerated in a deliberate or accidental fire at the end of its useful life. Plus, vinyl is very dicey to recycle, since the chlorine it contains cannot be mixed with other plastics. The development of vinyl brought some deadly problems into the world.

Between manufacture and disposal, vinyl itself is pretty stable; toxicologists tend to agree that it’s probably safe for the user. But PVC, by itself, is too hard and brittle to do much with, so manufacturers infuse it with a number of additives that make it soft, flexible, and willing to take colorants. They may also add fragrances. According to Dr. David Santillo, senior scientist with the Greenpeace Research Laboratories based at the University of Exeter in the UK, “You can end up with a vinyl product of which only a small proportion is actually the polyvinyl chloride plastic.” And there’s the rub. While vinyl itself may be relatively safe during use, its additives are not.

Why is Vinyl Toxic?

Vinyl may contain a number of additives known to be highly toxic, among them lead, organotin, alkyl-phenols, and bisphenol-A, to name but a few. But those getting the most attention today are called “phthalates.” Phthalates (correctly pronounced with an “f” sound immediately before the hard “th” sound) is the common name for phthalate esters. These human-made chemicals, when introduced into vinyl, make it soft and cooperative. They do this very well in part because their molecules do not bond to PVC, but rather move freely through it. And because they move through it, they also move freely out of it and into the surrounding environment.

The phthalates used to plasticize PVC are what give it that familiar “vinyl” smell. If you can smell vinyl, then you – and your dog – are inhaling phthalates that are out-gassing. Over a product’s lifetime, vinyl phthalates will leach out completely into any skin, other living tissue, air, water, and earth with which it comes into contact. That’s why old vinyl becomes so dry and brittle. A good general guideline is, the stronger a vinyl product smells, the greater the amount of phthalates it contains. (Am I ever glad I returned that malodorous cooling bed that I bought for Caleb, in spite of its potential to be an otherwise great product.)

Of the many different kinds of phthalates, not all have been equally studied. Not all are used in vinyl. Not all may be equally dangerous, and some may not even be dangerous. But six types that are normally found in vinyl have been identified as culprits behind some serious health concerns. They are:

  • DINP (di-isononyl phthalate)

  • DEHP (diethylhexyl phthalate)

  • DNOP (di-n-octyl phthalate)

  • DIDP (di-iso-decyl phthalate)

  • BBP (benzyl butyl phthalate)

  • DBP (dibutyl phthalate)

All six of these chemicals have been banned in the European Union for use in children’s toys and childcare products, and it’s to them that I normally refer when I mention “phthalates” in this article.

How Phthalates Interfere with Health

Phthalates can compromise the integrity of the body in a variety of ways. For example, they can cause measurable toxicity and biochemical changes in the kidneys and liver. However, the negative effect that garners the most press is reproductive problems. This may include lowered sperm count, abnormal sperm, and, at a more profound level, improper development of sex organs, especially in males, according to Dr. Santillo.

Vinyl Dog Toys

Further observations show correlations between phthalate exposure and undescended testicles in young children, inappropriate levels of certain hormones in the bodies of newborn babies, and a shortening of the distance between the anus and the genitalia. Such correlations in themselves, he adds, are not proof of cause and effect, but they ring the same alarm bells as those studies that do show cause and effect.

Phthalates initiate reproductive damage at what Dr. Santillo describes as “a very fundamental, cellular level.” They do this by interfering with the chemical communication between cells during certain critical stages of development. Babies in the womb can be affected if their mothers are exposed to phthalates. Newborns and very young children are also vulnerable and may be exposed through many sources, including breast milk.

Although phthalates pose other possible risks besides the ones mentioned above, their known effects illustrate that they can cause severe problems to health. I believe that we need to take these things into account as we choose which kinds of substances we choose to interact with – or select for our dogs. In fact, because of the ways they naturally interact with the physical world, our dogs may be at particular risk of absorbing phthalates.

Speeding Phthalates’ Release

Both puppies and human babies love to mouth things, especially when they’re teething. But, whereas babies eventually outgrow this tendency, most dogs keep joyfully chewing for the rest of their lives, putting them at an increased risk.

The problem arises because phthalates transfer easily from PVC into the surrounding environment. Although they don’t need specific conditions to cause this and will leach out of a vinyl object that’s sitting quietly all by itself, certain factors will speed up the process. The most effective one of all is what Dr. Santillo calls “mechanical pressure,” which means when something squeezes the object.

The following canine contributions put dogs at special risk of absorbing phthalates from vinyl:

  • Chewing (an outstanding example of repeated mechanical pressure)

  • Saliva (liquid)

  • Body heat (increased temperature)

  • Digestion (when pieces of vinyl get swallowed)

  • Inhalation of airborne chemicals

  • Skin contact (snoozing on or leaning against something)

All of these are a factor when a dog chews a vinyl toy. But some, such as warmth, inhalation, and skin contact are part of other scenarios too, such as when a dog sleeps on a vinyl bed. Taking these factors into account, the EU has banned the six major phthalates not only from kids’ toys, but also from many other products used by children. Governments are enacting protective legislation for humans; protections for animals are needed. “I see no reason why the same measure should not be immediately justifiable in order to protect those other members of our families, namely, our pets,” says Dr. Santillo.

Vinyl Dog Toys

As long as dogs (and other animals and kids on this continent) don’t have similar protective legislation, they depend upon us to decide what they’ll be exposed to. By learning more about how phthalates (not to mention other industrial chemicals) can affect our dogs, we can make better choices about what we buy for them.

Other Additives in Vinyl

Although phthalates may be the most worrisome additives found in vinyl today, others also pose serious health threats. When combined, they can be even worse. “When you’re using vinyl, you’re inevitably exposed to a very complex mix of chemicals,” explains Dr. Santillo. “Whereas predicting the effects of exposure to a single chemical is complicated to start with, looking at the effects of exposure to mixtures can be even more complicated.” The possible presence of these and other synthetic chemicals multiply the reasons to avoid vinyl.

Here’s some dope on a few vinyl additives:

Lead: Used as a softener. Damages the nervous system in humans and animals, causing cognitive and behavioral problems. No known “safe” level of exposure. This is more of an
issue in older vinyl than in newer stuff, but lead has shown up recently in imported painted pet and children’s toys. (To be sure to avoid it, don’t buy painted toys for your dog unless you’re certain they’re lead-free.)

Organotins. Mono- and di-butyltins used extensively as stabilizers, for example, in vinyl flooring. Di-butyltin is toxic to the immune system in mammals. Some of this family of
synthetic chemicals can disrupt the sexual development of marine animals. Not all organotins are used in PVC, but given the high toxicity of some chemicals in this category, scientists such as Dr. Santillo regard those used in vinyl as a concern.

Alkyl-phenols (nonyl and octyl). Used in the preparation of phthalates or in the extrusion process in drawing out flexible PVC. Well known for their ability to mimic estrogen hormones.

Bisphenol-A. Used as a stabilizing antioxidant in certain phthalate preparations; it stops phthalates from breaking down. A strongly estrogenic endocrine disruptor. Can add to “cocktail effects” by mixing with other vinyl additives. Linked to some forms of cancer.

The Danish Vinyl Study

Scientists believe phthalates to be dangerous for humans due to results of tests they’ve carried out primarily on rats and mice. However, they’ve seen similar outcomes in experiments on primates as well as in some observations of humans. These problems show up across a wide range of mammals. Although phthalates may have been tested on comparatively few canids, Danish researchers have recently spoken up on behalf of pet dogs (and cats), stating that they can suffer the same ill effects from these chemicals as can rodents, primates, and humans.

In 2006, the Danish Ministry of the Environment (MoE) published a report entitled (in the English translation) “Evaluation of the health risk to animals playing with phthalate-containing toys.” The researchers started with the results of a 2005 investigation into vinyl toys that had been marketed for dogs and cats in Denmark. The 2005 study had found that anywhere from 10 percent to 54 percent of the total content of tested toys consisted of DEHP or DINP. Both of these phthalates ranked among the six that the EU had already banned from toys and products that were marketed for human children. Based on these as well as other findings, the 2006 MoE project looked at the rate of phthalate transfer into, and its potential effects on, dogs and cats who played with toys that contained the chemicals.

The authors of the 2006 report also reviewed data from other studies. For example, when they compared data from tests carried out on rats with results of the few tests carried out on dogs, they found that DEHP and DINP cause similar reproductive and liver damage in both species.

From this they reasoned that findings about the dangers of phthalates, drawn from studies carried out on rats, should be seen as significant not only for humans but also for dogs and cats. They also took into account behavioral differences between dogs and cats and the different uses of various kinds of products.

For example, they noted that veterinarians have discovered that when swallowed, soft plastic toys often become hard and sharp during the short time they spend in the gastrointestinal tract. This indicates that the leaching-out of softeners accelerates while the plastic is inside the dog.

In the end, they resolved that the greatest danger lay with dogs playing with toys containing phthalates, since repeated mechanical pressure (chewing) and the presence of saliva speed up the phthalates’ release. (They were less concerned about cats’ oral exposure since cats tend to play more with their paws than with their mouths.)

The 2006 study presented five conclusions, which I summarize here:

1. Dogs who eat even small amounts of PVC toy per day can be exposed to toxic doses of DEHP, which can cause reproductive damage.
2. Phthalates migrate into dogs’ saliva at rates that can increase the toxic effects of the chemicals.
3. The exposure of pregnant or nursing bitches (for even a very short time) during their puppies’ critical development periods to toys containing DEHP can put the puppies’ reproductive health at risk.
4. Dogs who eat even small amounts of PVC toy per day may also be exposed to toxic doses of DINP, which can cause liver damage with sufficient ongoing exposure.
5. Toys may be a major source of phthalate exposre to dogs. Allowing that other sources (for example the environment, food and consumer products) also expose dogs to a variety of phthalates, combined and more significantly destructive phthalate actions could be expected.

The Danish study recommends that owners “reduce the potential health risk to their animals by limiting the animal’s use of toys that potentially contain phthalates especially during pregnancy and (when they are) pups.”

In other words, don’t give your dog vinyl toys to chew on, especially when pups are involved.

But while PVC toys may be the worst source of dogs’ exposure to phthalates, they’re not the only one.

How to Tell if It’s Vinyl

– Be like a dog and sniff all sot plastic pet and household products. If it smells like “vinyl,” it probably is.

– Check labels and packaging for content descriptions that say “vinyl” or “PVC.”

– Check the product (not its packaging) for a recycling symbol with #3 PVC (or #3 V). Products with no recycling information may still be vinyl.

– If a soft plastic product does not have that characteristic vinyl smell and lacks a recycling symbol or labelling, ask the retailer for more information. lf the retailer can’t tell you what the product is made of, ask the manufacturer. lf no one can or will tell you, look for a more clearly labelled alternative.

Other Vinyl Exposure Sources

Besides in chew toys, vinyl can show up in dogs’ collars, leashes, clothing, bedding, carriers, and dog tents (it can be in the mesh or used as waterproof undercoating) – in short, in just about anything. It also shows up in the human-made environment you share with your dog. Here are a just few examples to think about.

Vinyl linoleum flooring. Phthalates measure at much higher levels of intensity close to the floor, where pets and kids spend their time. They measure at reduced levels higher up, where most adult humans spend their time!

House dust. House dust has been found to contain substantial amounts of phthalates. Scientists now believe that it’s a very significant source of exposure to pets, who wash themselves by licking and taking internally what they clean off their fur.

Car dashboards. That “new car smell” comes at least partly from phthalates leaking from the dash or any other interior vinyl to penetrate the air inside the car. If your dog loves to ride along, think about how much time she spends in the car waiting for you, and what you might do to improve the situation.

Clothing, bedding, strollers, and camping equipment made for humans.Take, for example, the $800 I spent a few years ago on a respected name brand “technical” nylon tent with room for two adults plus Bouvier, so that we could spend summer nights together in national parks breathing in the fresh air and delectable scents of the wilderness. However, even after several years, the PVC undercoating used to waterproof the tent outgases a strong odor of phthalates and completely dominates our tent’s “indoor” air. Needless to say, this does not make us happy campers.

Vinyl in Your Dog’s Life and Safer Alternatives

After reading this article, it may surprise you to learn that products made with vinyl and intended for dog play or dog care are readily available in every pet supply store and catalog. Some are made and sold by high-profile, reputable companies. Whether the makers of these products don’t know, don‘t care to know, or don’t believe the studies about the dangers of vinyl and vinyl additives, it’s impossible to say.

In addition to the wealth of products openly labelled as “vinyl,” we found a number of products labelled with text that seems to acknowledge that someone, somewhere in the
products’ manufacturing company, is aware that there may be problems with vinyl. We found toys and other products whose labels said “nontoxic vinyl.”

Don’t be fooled: the “nontoxic vinyl” statement reflects the politics of labelling, not the safety of vinyl products. The vinyl industry lobbies to keep consumers believing that vinyl is safe in spite of mounting evidence to the contrary. Vinyl releases toxins during manufacture and disposal, and it’s usually softened with phthalates, which are toxic. Therefore, based on information available today, vinyl cannot be non-toxic. (Dr. Santillo warns that phthalate alternatives may not be safe, either, and they haven’t yet been adequately researched.)

Some vinyl products are labelled “phthalate-free.” However, the U.S. Public Interest Research Group has found, in random testing, that many toys labelled “phthalate-free” do
in fact contain phthalates. Its report, “Trouble in Toyland: 21st Annual Toy Safety Survey,” (2006) states, “Nothing in the law has changed to hold toy makers accountable to the
‘phthalate-free’ label.”

The safest alternative is simply to avoid vinyl.

Toys

In our opinion, the use of vinyl in dog toys is more dangerous than other applications. This is due to the number of mechanisms that come into play when a dog chews a toy that can contribute to the release of toxic substances from the vinyl into the dog (chewing, saliva, warmth, digestion, skin contact).

We contacted a few makers of vinyl toys to discuss their use or vinyl. Some would not respond; we appreciate those who did, such as Hyper Ploducts, of Wayzata, Minnesota, which sells a line of vinyl dog chew toys called Hardware Hound. These include a toy wrench, hammer, round file, and chisel, all of which give off a strong “vinyl” odor. The packaging says the products are made of “nontoxic vinyl.”

Ward Myers, president of Hyper Products, responded to our inquiry with the following:
“Our currrent product line does not have PVC or phthalates in them. They are made from
vinyl. We also test all of our products for lead and all products are safe.” When we pointed out that vinyl is PVC and almost certainly contains phthalates, Myers emailed us a document called “Why Vinyl is a Leading Material for the Toy Industry,” which praised the safety of vinyl and phthalates in children’s toys based on data drawn “as recently as 1997.” However, the shift toward evidence that phthalates are not safe has taken place since that date.

When we asked another pet products company, Hueter Toledo, Inc., of Bellevue, Ohio, about its vinyl dog toys (including one of our former favorites, the “Soft-Flex Clutch Ball”), Carey Stiles, company president, confirmed right away that some of its chew toys were vinyl, and acknowledged that phthalates are controversial. She also pointed out that they make another popular toy that is not vinyl; the “Best Ball.” That’s the one we’d buy for our dogs to play with!

Beds

Beds that are meant to be filled with water, such as the Cool Bed lIl, made by K & H Manufacturing and widely sold in pet supply stores and catalogs, are commonly made of vinyl. A profoundly better choice would be a completely nontoxic bed, such as the Boulder Zen Dog Bed made by DoggyArchy of Vail, Colorado. Owner Virginia Briggs of DoggyArchy told us that this bed is made in the U.S. of pesticide-free hemp and flax, and filled with kapok fibers. Awesome!

Raincoats

Raincoats for dogs are frequently made of vinyl, and often are clearly labelled as such, like the Puddles Dog Raincoat made by Fashion Pet, lnc. (Ethical Products). But you have
to do some detective work to find the vinyl in other products, such as the Outward Hound Designer Rain Jacket, sold by The Kyjen Company. On its website. Kyjen describes this coat as an “alternative to the traditional vinyl rain slickers that have been on the market for years.” However, when we asked the company what made the coat waterproof, a representative responded, “The material is nylon with PVC backing.”

A better choice would be the Rain Slicker by Chilly Dogs. Company owner/product designer Julie Kelly said the nylon outer shell fabric is coated with polyurethane – no vinyl or phthalates. Another good alternative is the Waxed Cotton Dog Jacket by Barbour. The coat is made of 100 percent cotton, coated with wax, and contains no PVC. It’s made in England but sold by Orvis in the U.S.

More Safe Alternatives to Vinyl Products

The best way to avoid toxins from synthetic chemicals is to not buy synthetic products. But they’re hard to dodge these days, and even natural things my be treated with nasty stuff. Besides, you may feel that synthetics offer certain advantages. You don’t need to change everything at once, but as you are able to afford to and as you need to replace things, these tips can help keep your dog – and you – safer.

– When shopping for your dog, look for products made from materials that are natural or nearly so, such as toys made of felted wool or natural rubber, real bones to chew, organic cotton or hemp beds, and glass water bowls. Try to avoid synthetic additives such as fragrance or color.

– Replace vinyl-containing athletic shoes with shoes made of canvas or real leather. This is especially important in a household with dogs who chew shoes!

– Consider buying a waxed canvas raincoat for your dog. They are more difficult to find than vinyl coats, but are worth the effort. If you prefer a synthetic coat, choose one without vinyl. Although there are concerns about polyurethane and other chemicals that are used to make high-tech fabrics water-resistant, PVC is arguably worse.

– Nylon mesh is less toxic than PVC mesh used on dog tents, carriers, and crate or stroller covers. Watch out for PVC under-coating on these items as well.

– When you must replace a vinyl floor, choose natural, non-vinyl linoleum from “greener” flooring suppliers instead.

– Don’t berate yourself if you’ve bought vinyl products for your dog in the past. PVC has become part of our culture, and it will take time to change that.

If You Already Have Vinyl Products…

– Replace vinyl chew toys with non-vinyl toys. Don’t give the vinyl toys away, either; get them recycled if you can. DON’T bury them under any circumstances!

– Never let your dog chew on shoes that contain vinyl imitation leather (lots of gym shoes do these days).

– Replace vinyl dog boots with ones made from alternatives such as non-PVC-coated nylon with natural rubber soles.

– Reduce or improve your dog’s car time. Cover vinyl seats or the “shelf” under the back windshield (where small dogs like to perch), and wash covers often. Open windows enough to encourage air exchange. Find an outward—blowing fan for car windows. Don’t leave your car exposed to sunlight even on a mild day, since phthalates release faster in warmth.

– lf your dog carrier, stroller, or tent has a PVC mesh screen, replace the mesh with a nylon screen. Meantime, roll up the vinyl mesh if you can so your dog doesn’t have to breathe through it (or have its sharp odor interfere so much with more dog-important smells!)

– Store vinyl raincoats (your own and your dog’s), carriers, tennis shoes, etc., outside your home, if possible. Or at least be thoughtful about where you keep them.

– Vacuum your home and car regularly. If you can’t get to them often as you’d like, even doing one area at a time will improve things by removing some of the phthalate-laden dust.

– lf you’ve got vinyl floors, open your windows; use fans and air exchangers to move low air out. Don’t feed or give your dog treats directly on a vinyl floor. Encourage him to sleep on other floors; if he won’t, put down rugs and wash them often.

– Replace vinyl shower curtains and window blinds with non-vinyl ones when you can.

– Don’t use your dog’s vinyl raincoat if she doesn’t really mind getting wet. Replace it with a non-vinyl coat as soon as you can.

– Don’t sweat it too much! Vinyl is almost everywhere. Any reduction of its use in your home will help.

Don’t Panic, But Do Act

While we can’t expect, in the immediate future, to totally eliminate vinyl from our dogs’ lives, we can expose them to less of it by making thoughtful choices on their behalf.

Protecting the ones we love from the many kinds of human-created, disruptive chemicals that permeate the earth today can seem like an overwhelming challenge. But if you want a good place to start, choose vinyl as the number one plastic to avoid. Why? Because vinyl contributes such a large brew of toxins throughout its manufacture, use, and disposal. And because every person who cuts back on its use can make a real difference for their dogs, themselves, and the planet.

Susan Weinstein is a freelancer who writes about dogs, healthcare and humane issues. She also collaborates with long-time holis-tic practitioner Paul McCutcheon, DVM, on the subject of pet care and stress. Weinstein lives in Grafton, Ontario.

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Good to Know

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After sharing my life with an eccentric Border Collie (is that a redundant phrase?), I was prepared for odd behavior from an Australian Shepherd belonging to a friend I hadn’t seen for years. But as my friend and I chatted in her kitchen over coffee, catching up, I couldn’t help but notice her Aussie’s strange behavior in front of her food bowl. The dog stood frozen over her bowl, nose poised just above the kibble inside. Occasionally she shoved her muzzle into the food, stirring the kibble vigorously, before taking her vigilant stance just above the food again. She appeared to be scrutinizing the food carefully, before she’d take a single piece of kibble, chew it, and start the process again.

Nancy Kerns

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I observed the dog repeat this funny little circuit at least four times over the course of at least 10 minutes before finally interrupting my friend. “Cathy, I give up. What is your dog doing with her food?”

“Ah! You noticed her two-hour breakfast!” Cathy laughed. “That started about four years ago . . . ever since the one time that ants got into her food bowl. She’s been worried about them ever since!”

That was the most extreme sort of eating disorder I had ever heard of in dogs. At least, until I heard of dogs exhibiting a more serious – potentially life-threatening – eating disorder: anorexia.

Dogs lose their appetites for a variety of reasons, few of them as innocent as ants. Most conditions that cause inappetence need to be investigated at your veterinarian’s office, and quickly, in the case of older or ill dogs, or those taking medications of any sort.

Just the other day my friend Jamie was telling me about her efforts to get her previously ravenous German Wirehaired Pointer to eat something, anything, since he was started on a drug to treat his Cushing’s disease. Overnight, he went from being a canine vacuum, unsafe around any edible item, to completely disinterested in food. Fortunately, having just edited an excellent article about inappetence by Mary Straus (see the next page), I was able to give Jamie plenty of ideas for how to get poor Sammy to eat again.

A medical condition was also behind the sudden loss of appetite experienced by Mokie, who was my long-haired Chihuahua before he went to my sister Pam’s house for a dog-sitting visit from which he hasn’t returned. Mokie is usually a ravenous eater, who Hoovers up sandwich crumbs before they hit the floor and is prone to snatching dog cookies right out from the jaws of Pam’s older, slower Jack Russell. (In fact, that’s Mokie in the photo on page 5, taking food from an unhungry Labrador 10 times his size.)

When Pam told me that Mokie wasn’t eating, I knew something was seriously wrong. As it turned out, his back was badly out of whack. He began eating again immediately after a visit to a veterinary chiropractor, although it took him a few days to start stealing food from his packmates again.

More information about chiropractic for canines, by the way, appears on page 20 of this issue.

-Nancy Kerns

Recognizing Signs of Your Dog’s Loss of Appetite

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The author’s dog, Nattie, is pictured here at age 15, about 10 months after she developed inappetence. The strategies described in this article were successful in keeping Nattie at a healthy weight – impressive, for a senior dog!

There are few things more frustrating than a dog who won’t eat. I discovered how hard this can be on an owner when my Nattie suddenly stopped eating at age 14. I tried every trick I could find to tempt her to eat, while my veterinarian did test after test trying to discover the cause of her sudden lack of interest in food. And I couldn’t help feeling rejected when she turned down the meals I so lovingly prepared, making the experience even more stressful.

What should you do when your dog won’t eat? Here is the first question that must be answered: Is there something wrong, or is my dog just being picky? Only when you know the answer can you start trying to solve the problem with food selection and preparation tricks. Here are some clues that can help you determine what approach you should try first:

Canine Eating Behaviors
Dog won’t eat? Be alert if this is a new behavior for your dog, or a total departure for a dog who is usually a chowhound. Immediately suspect the food (if you feed a commercial diet) or consider that he may have a health problem.

Does your dog usually eat anything you put in front of her, or does she have a history of skipping meals? A sudden change in appetite is likely to be symptomatic of a health problem and cause for a quick trip to the vet, especially in dogs who are normally good eaters.

•Are there any other symptoms? When lack of appetite is coupled with lethargy, fever, panting, other signs of pain, vomiting, diarrhea, jaundice, or anything else out of the ordinary, it is a definite cause for concern, and an immediate trip to the vet is indicated.

•Have there been any changes that might account for the difference in appetite? If you recently switched to a new food, or began adding supplements to the food, perhaps your dog is simply telling you that she doesn’t like it. Try feeding the food plain, or go back to your old brand and see if her appetite returns to normal. Household changes, such as loss of another pet or an owner being away, might also contribute to a dog’s inappetence.

•Is your dog losing weight? I’ve occasionally heard people complain that their dogs won’t eat but are substantially overweight. These are often dogs who turn down meals because they’re getting more treats and snacks than they need. Check with all family members to discover how much your dog is really eating before determining that she is inappetent.

I’ve had two dogs who were real chowhounds, including my 16-year-old Piglet, and even a single missed meal has me rushing them to the vet. With Nattie, who was known to skip a meal on occasion, I waited until she turned down her second meal, which was raw meaty bones (her favorite), before calling the vet and bringing her in the following morning. Remember that animals often try to hide the fact that they are sick, so it’s important to pay attention to symptoms when they do occur and act quickly. Don’t wait several days to see if they improve on their own.

Causes of Inappetence
Lack of appetite is referred to as inappetence or anorexia. There are many reasons why a dog may be reluctant to eat. Dental disease, including broken teeth and infected gums, may cause pain when eating.

Ear infections are another source of pain that can lead to reluctance to eat, especially hard food. Keep in mind that chronic ear infections are almost always related to allergies (either food or environmental), so try to find and eliminate the cause if at all possible, along with treating the existing infection.

Other forms of pain can cause a dog to stop eating. Panting, trembling, walking hunched over, sleeping more than usual, reluctance to run or jump, and irritability can all be signs of pain. Have your vet check your dog if you think that pain might be contributing to lack of appetite.

If you’re still unsure, try giving pain medications, such as Tramadol, to see if the symptoms improve. If so, look further to find the source. Treat pain as needed to increase appetite and improve quality of life.

Dogs who are sick, including dogs with cancer and those undergoing chemotherapy, are often reluctant to eat. Kidney disease, for example, can cause nausea and gastric ulceration due to excess acidity.

If you recently opened a new bag of your dog’s regular food and he turns up his nose at it, pay attention; this could be a sign that the food is spoiled or moldy, and possibly dangerous. Even if only one dog in your household doesn’t want to eat and the rest are fine with the food, it would be safer to get a new bag and see if that solves the problem.

During last year’s pet food recalls, there were many heartbreaking stories of owners coaxing their dogs to eat the food that was making them sick before the full story was known. Most stores will let you return a bag of food if you suspect something is wrong with it. If any symptoms are seen, such as vomiting or diarrhea, they should be reported to the manufacturer of the food.

Many medications list nausea and anorexia as potential side effects. If your dog is on medication and becomes reluctant to eat, talk to your vet to see if a substitute is available, or if there is a way to make the pills easier on your dog’s stomach. For example, some meds that are normally given away from meals can be given with food instead to help with stomach upset.

Warning: In some cases, loss of appetite can be a symptom that the medication you are giving is dangerous. This is especially true in the case of NSAIDs (non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs) such as Rimadyl, Deramaxx, and even aspirin. Corticosteroids such as prednisone can cause gastrointestinal ulceration and associated inappetence.

If your dog is on any of these drugs and stops eating, you should discontinue the medication immediately (don’t stop prednisone without your vet’s OK). Get your dog to the vet, especially if other symptoms are present, such as vomiting, diarrhea, black or tarry stools, or lethargy.

Tests to look for the cause
There are a variety of tests that can be done to try to pinpoint the reason for your dog’s reluctance to eat. Here are the ones that we did for Nattie, sequentially over a period of about three weeks:

•Blood tests, which may need to be repeated in order to identify any trends or problems that were not apparent right away.

•Abdominal and chest x-rays, to look for signs of obstruction, tumor, enlarged heart, or anything else that might explain a reluctance to eat.

•Ultrasound, to look further for anything that might not show up on x-ray. The radiologist should check the adrenal glands as well as all of the internal organs.

•ACTH stimulation test, to check for Addison’s disease, which can cause inappetence even if the adrenal glands appear normal. Note that inappetence can also be a sign of adrenal exhaustion, even when the ACTH test is normal. In this case, the adrenal glands may be enlarged. You can test for this only at certain laboratories, such as the University of Tennessee’s endocrinology lab.

If immunoglobulins and cortisol are low (or declining) and sex hormones are high (or rising), it’’s suggestive of adrenal exhaustion, also referred to as atypical Cushing’s disease or hyperestrogenism. This syndrome is treated with low, physiological doses of cortisol, such as methylprednisolone, and thyroid hormones.

•Leptospirosis blood titer test. This test may not become positive until your dog is in the recovery stage. We waited two weeks before doing this test on Nattie.

•Tick blood panel. Tick-borne diseases often cause a syndrome vets refer to as “ain’t doing right,” where something is affecting the dog but the cause is not apparent on tests or exam.

•Endoscopy, which involves inserting a camera down the dog’s throat into the stomach. An endoscopic exam makes it possible to visually check for abnormalities and take tissue samples to look deeper for problems.

Your vet may recommend other tests, depending on your dog’s symptoms and history.

In Nattie’s case, all of the tests were negative other than pre-existing early stage kidney disease, which had not progressed and therefore was not considered to be a likely cause of her loss of appetite. At this point, the specialist said that everything had been ruled out except a brain tumor. She recommended an MRI to check for that, but I declined. I felt the likelihood of a brain tumor being the cause and of a tumor being treatable were not high enough to justify the expense and the stress the tests would cause my dog.

When is lack of appetite normal?
There are times when a poor appetite can be expected. Female dogs in heat as well as the male dogs nearby frequently lose their appetite for a time. However, inappetence following a heat cycle can be a sign of pyometra, which requires an immediate vet visit.

Adolescent puppies, especially of some larger breeds, are notorious for alternating between being extra-hungry and skipping meals. Younger puppies may be reluctant to eat because of teething pain (soft food and chewing on something cold can help in this case). Hot weather can make a dog want to eat less. Some dogs prefer eating at certain times of the day and may turn down food offered at other times.

Additives such as supplements and some foods may cause your dog to turn away from his meals. If your dog doesn’t like supplements added to his food, try giving them in pill form instead (see “Giving Pills” in text below, for hints on how to make this easier). Many dogs refuse to eat vegetables, and may turn down meals if there are any mixed in. Other foods that your dog dislikes may also cause him to turn away if they are added to his meals. While Nattie had enjoyed yogurt in the past, she would not touch it after developing problems with her appetite, so keep in mind that tastes may change over time as well.

Dogs who are fed too much may also be picky about their meals. If you have a picky dog who is overweight, look at how much you’’re feeding, both at mealtime and in between, to see if the problem isn’t related to too many snacks and treats. Try reducing the amount you feed by 10 percent at a time to see if you can get your dog to begin to slowly lose weight, along with being hungrier at mealtime.

Some dogs have problems with bile if their stomachs are empty for too long. This can lead to vomiting of yellow liquid in the early morning hours, often accompanied by nausea and lack of appetite. In this case, feeding them a late-night snack before bed can help.

When my dogs seem to feel nauseous, I’ve found that if I can get them to eat a small amount of something special to start with, their stomachs seem to settle. Then they are willing to eat their regular meal.

Picky eaters
If your dog frequently turns down meals but is happy and healthy otherwise, he simply may be more finicky than most. However, to be safe, make sure you mention your dog’s poor appetite/picky eating habit to your veterinarian at your dog’s annual exams.

dog not eating
Sometimes, competition increases a dog’s willingness to dig in and eat. But timid dogs or dogs who have been intimidated may back away from competition. Know your dog and pay attention to deviations from his normal behavior.

Picky dogs can be born that way, or you can inadvertently condition them to be picky. Some dogs simply do not have the overweening interest in food more commonly associated with the species, and others may have certain foods that they dislike, possibly because they’ve learned that eating a particular food causes them discomfort. If your dog eats reluctantly, try switching brands of food and protein sources to see if he gets more excited when you feed something different.

You can also try adding various fresh foods and flavorings to his meals, such as meat and eggs (raw or cooked), cottage cheese, yogurt, gravy, healthy leftovers, etc. These foods are good for your dog and they make him look forward to his meals; there is nothing wrong with that!

There is one caution to this approach, however. Offering something else whenever your dog turns down a meal can condition him to be picky. Hovering over your dog while he eats, or otherwise making mealtime stressful, can also create eating disorders.

If you have a healthy dog who is a picky eater, put his food down for a limited amount of time – say, 10 to 15 minutes – while ignoring him. Then calmly pick up any remaining food and offer him nothing else until the next meal. It’s fine to offer something different at the next meal, but not right away, as you don’t want your dog to learn that you will give him something better if he turns down a meal.

Competition with other dogs may either increase or decrease your dog’s desire to eat. If you feed dogs together, try feeding the one who doesn’t want to eat in a crate or another room, to see if he feels more comfortable eating alone. If you feed your dogs separately, maybe letting another dog eat his food if he doesn’t want it in a reasonable amount of time may convince him that being picky isn’t a good idea (be sure this won’t trigger a fight before trying it).

Exercise can increase appetite and, of course, offers other benefits, too. Many picky dogs eat with more interest after a long walk.

Some dogs like variety, and will tire of any food after a few days, weeks, or months. Feeding a variety of different foods is healthier for your dog, so again, there is no harm in rotating between brands, anywhere from daily to every few months, which may also serve to keep your dog interested in his food.

A dog who is consistently picky no matter what you feed him is likely to have some kind of health problem. In this case, a veterinary examination and testing is called for.

Treating the symptoms
Until you can find and eliminate the cause of your dog’s inappetence, you can try treating the symptoms with supplements and possibly medications. Purchasing information for all of the nonprescription remedies can be found in “Resources Mentioned in This Article.”

Slippery elm is an herb available from health food stores that can help with problems related to stomach pain, as it coats and soothes. See “Soothe Stomach Pain With Slippery Elm,” below.

Another option is to use Phytomucil from Animals Apawthecary, a liquid glycerite that contains slippery elm and other herbs that benefit the digestive system. It is sweet-tasting and easy to administer. Just squeeze a dropperful into your dog’s cheek pouch.

L-glutamine is an amino acid that helps to heal the mucosal lining of the intestines, so it may be beneficial if your dog is experiencing diarrhea. Give 500 mg per 25 lbs of body weight daily. Higher doses are also safe.

Seacure (see “Securing Seacure,” Whole Dog Journal April 2003) is a highly nutritious supplement designed to treat malnutrition. Seacure can also help to heal the digestive tract and provide other health benefits. Made of hydrolyzed whitefish, Seacure has a fishy smell. Sprinkled on your dog’s food, it helps make the food more attractive to your dog.

Ginger Tummy from Tasha’s Herbs, Ginger-Mint from Animals Apawthecary, or Minty Ginger from Herbs for Kids can help if inappetence is caused by nausea.

Antacids such as Pepcid (famotidine), Zantac (ranitidine), Tagamet (cimetidine) and Axid (nizatidine) can be tried, with your vet’s approval. Antacids are best given at bedtime, to reduce acidity that develops during the night.

Tums, which is calcium carbonate (the same as is found in eggshells), can also be used. The acid-inhibitors Prilosec (omeprazole) and lansoprazole are sometimes prescribed for dogs. Don’t give any of these medications without first checking with your vet.

Other medications your vet may prescribe include Reglan (metoclopramide), used to stop vomiting and increase gastric motility, and Carafate (sucralfate), used to treat gastric ulcers.

A bland, low-fat diet may help if the symptoms are caused by digestive disorders. You can make rice congee by boiling one cup of white rice (not Minute Rice) with four cups of water for 20 to 30 minutes. The liquid portion helps soothe the stomach and stop vomiting and diarrhea. Add a little chicken baby food or honey for flavor, if needed. The whole mixture can also be combined with cooked chicken breast or boiled ground beef.

In Nattie’s case, Pepcid seemed to help, and I left her on it long term. I stopped it about a year later and oddly enough her appetite improved at that time.

When dealing with inappetence, check with your vet to see if it’s safe to try stopping any medications your dog is on. If your dog’s appetite returns when the medication is stopped, ask the vet if there is an alternative medication that your dog can be given.

Appetite-stimulating meds
There are a number of medications that can be used to increase appetite if necessary. The decongestant Benadryl (diphenhydramine) may help with nausea. Cyproheptadine is another antihistamine that has the side effect of stimulating the appetite, though it’s used more with cats than with dogs. Other drugs that your vet may prescribe include:

•Meclizine (Bonine, Antivert) can help with nausea. One dog I know with advanced kidney disease started eating well and gained more than 10 pounds after being put on this drug.

•Mirtazapine (Remeron) is an anti-depressant that has anti-nausea properties and acts as a strong appetite stimulant.

•Ondansetron (Zofran) is a human chemotherapy drug that can be used to stop severe vomiting.

•Corticosteroids also increase appetite as a side effect. In Nattie’s case, after ruling out all the possible causes that we could, my vet put Nattie on a low dose of prednisolone, which was effective in stimulating her appetite.

Foods to tempt your dog
A lot of effort may be required to find foods to entice your dog to eat when he is not feeling well. In most cases, it is more important that your dog eat something than that he eat the best foods for his condition (check with your vet to be sure). Don’t worry about feeding an incomplete diet in the short term, up to a few weeks. Experiment with different foods and different ways of preparing and serving them to see what appeals to your dog.

When Nattie stopped eating, I was shopping daily at both the grocery store and the pet supply store, trying to find anything that might tempt her to eat. I would bring home a half dozen or so different foods and treats each day, some made for people, some for dogs. She would not eat anything consistently or in large amounts, or mixed together with anything else.

I would offer meals of at least four different foods in small amounts, each separated from each other, two or three times a day. I eliminated foods that she had no interest in, but continued to periodically offer any food that she would eat at least once, even if subsequently she turned it down.

I found that she did best when she was not fed the same food twice in the same day, or two days in a row, though there was one treat she would eat daily. I gradually developed an inventory of foods that she was willing to eat, if prepared just the way she liked them (for example, she would eat scrambled eggs with cheese, but not plain), and not served too frequently. This was a lot of work and a lot of stress, but it kept her from losing too much weight while we continued to search for the cause of her inappetence.

Almost any food can be offered, with the exception of a few foods that are toxic to dogs, such as chocolate, onions, and macadamia nuts. Here are suggestions that have worked for some dogs:

•Baby food, especially meats. You can use water, low-sodium broth, or even ice cream to slightly thin baby food and then use a syringe to put it in your dog’s cheek a little at a time.

•Nutri-Cal and Nutri-Stat, high-calorie palatable food supplements designed to provide nutritional support and stimulate appetite.

•Rebound and DogSure. These are nutritionally complete liquid meal replacement products. Unflavored Pedialyte (made for children) can also be used.

•Try different brands and types of commercial foods, including dry food, canned food, dog food rolls, dehydrated foods, premixes such as those made by The Honest Kitchen, commercial raw diets, and even cat food. Try various treats, too.

•Smelly foods such as liverwurst and braunschweiger sausage. Chicken or beef liver braised in butter is another food that appeals to many dogs. Feed foods such as these in small quantities, or add them to other foods to enhance their appeal.

•Foods from your plate. Sometimes dogs are more willing to eat if they get the same thing that you’re eating. Chicken nuggets, cheeseburgers (no onions), and pizza are also worth a try.

•Fresh foods. Experiment to see what your dog may like, such as eggs (try scrambling them with cheese, or hard-boiling), canned fish, canned chicken or ham, seasoned and grilled meats, beef stew with gravy, macaroni and cheese, homemade soup, crab cakes, cheese, cream cheese, cottage cheese, yogurt, deli meats (can be rolled with other food inside), milk shakes and ice cream (avoid chocolate and coffee flavors). Even foods like bread and pizza crusts are better than nothing, if your dog is willing to eat them.

•Flavor enhancers, such as gravy, soup, broth, stock, sauces, butter, and drippings may help make other foods more enticing, either when added on top or when cooked together. (Note: We do not recommend the commercial flavor enhancers for squeezing onto dog food; most we have seen contain artificial colors, preservatives, and other unhealthy ingredients.) You can also try sprinkling Parmesan cheese, feta cheese, or a little garlic powder on top.

•Honey is a tasty and healthy addition that may entice your dog to eat (see “A Honey of a Cure,””September 2007).

•Bone broth is nourishing and flavorful, and can be fed alone, or mixed with other foods to make them more appealing. Use any type of meaty bones, such as chicken backs with skin removed. Chop the bones into pieces, if possible. Put them in a stock pot and cover with water. Add a small amount of apple cider vinegar to help leach the minerals from the bones.

You can also add vegetables such as celery, carrots, and potatoes (no onions). Bring to a boil, then simmer anywhere from 12 to 36 hours (or use a pressure cooker to save time). Pour the liquid off and remove the fat after it cools (a little can be left for flavor). Using a blender, liquefy the veggies and meat from the bones (and the bones as well, if they are soft enough), then mix with the liquid and store in the refrigerator or freeze for later use.

•The temperature of food can affect its appeal. Cold food straight from the refrigerator has little odor and may cause an upset stomach. Warming food increases flavor and aroma, making it more enticing. Food can be warmed in a microwave or by immersing the container in a bowl of hot water.

Giving pills
It can be very hard to get dogs who don’t want to eat to take pills. I hate to force them down the throat, especially when a dog is not feeling well, and if you try adding them to food, it may make your dog less willing to eat. Try dipping pills in cream cheese, spray cheese, or peanut butter; wrapping them in a bit of soft cheese, braunschweiger, or liverwurst; or inserting them into small pieces of crab cakes or dim sum dumplings (these worked for Nattie).

dog not eating
The author’s dog, Nattie, is pictured here at age 15, about 10 months after she developed inappetence. The strategies described in this article were successful in keeping Nattie at a healthy weight – impressive, for a senior dog!

You can also order chicken-flavored gel caps and combine meds into them. Give only those pills that are needed, skipping any that are optional, such as vitamin supplements. Liquids may be easier to administer, if available. For example, herbal glycerites can be squeezed from a dropper into the cheek pouch, which is simpler and may be more effective than using capsules of dried herbs.

Don’t give up
We never determined what caused Nattie to suddenly stop eating. Although her appetite never returned to normal, I was able to get her to eat well by rotating through foods that she liked and preparing them the way she preferred. I weaned her off the prednisone that we had used to stimulate her appetite, though eventually she returned to it to control chronic bronchitis. It was complications of the bronchitis that led to my having to euthanize her two years later at age 16.

Many people warned me that Nattie might be manipulating me to get better food, but there is no question in my mind that was not the case. She had never been manipulative nor a picky eater in the past. When a dog’s behavior suddenly changes, especially at age 14, health issues rather than behavior are likely to be the cause.

Fortunately, even though I never knew exactly what went wrong, I learned through a lot of trial and error what meals Nattie would eat willingly, without fuss. And I was lucky enough to be able to share my life with her for two more years, making it all worthwhile.

Sidebar: Soothe Stomach Pain With Slippery Elm
The following instructions for a slippery elm treatment are from Dr. Pitcairn’s New Complete Guide to Natural Health for Dogs & Cats, used with permission. Thoroughly mix 1 slightly rounded teaspoon of slippery elm powder (available in your local health food store) with 1 cup of cold water. Bring to a boil while stirring constantly. Then turn the heat down to simmer and continue to stir for another two to three minutes while the mixture thickens slightly. Remove from the heat, add 1 tablespoon of honey, and stir well. Cool to room temperature and give ½ to 1 teaspoon to small dogs (up to 40 lbs), 2 teaspoons to 2 tablespoons for medium dogs (40-75 lbs), and 3 to 4 tablespoons for large dogs (more than 75 lbs). Give this dose four times a day, or about every four hours. Cover the mixture and store at room temperature. It will keep for a couple of days.

 

Uncommonly Calm Canines

Most dog owners are pleased when their dogs are calm – even the owners of high-energy competition and working dogs, when those dogs are “off-duty.” Some owners may go to great – sometimes misguided – lengths to achieve the coveted calm condition. Humans who understand the appropriate way to help a dog learn to be calm can make the difference between the canine companion who finds a lifelong loving home, and the one who ends up – sometimes several times in his life – gazing sadly out from the chain-link kennels of an animal shelter.

Calm is a highly valued, hard-won, and sometimes transitory state in our own household. With four dogs in the Miller pack, two of them proud representatives of the herding group, calm is something we have to work at. We use the time-honored recipe of exercise, management, and training (and of course, lots of love) to help our canine family members be a peaceable pack.

Cocker Spaniel

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The “Uncommonly Calm” (UC) Program
You can turn your Bouncing Betty into a Sedate Sally by following a simple program that helps her get rid of excess energy, prevents her from being rewarded for out-of-control behavior, and consistently rewards her for being calm.

Exercise: The first element in your UC program is to provide your dog with lots of exercise. Wise dog trainers and owners know that a tired dog is a well-behaved dog. Often when your dog is at her worst, she is simply brimming with energy bursting to find an escape. Tug-o-war on your pants leg, donuts around the dining room table, and record high-jumps over the back of the sofa are just some of her outlets for that pent-up energy.

Mental and physical activities are both vitally important parts of a canine exercise program. For the physical side, schedule at least three tongue-dragging sessions of chase-the-ball per day. Climb to the top of a hill or carpeted staircase (perhaps not for long-backed dogs) and throw the ball down so she has to keep climbing back up to return it to you. Set up an obstacle course with lots of things to climb and jump over. Be careful not to send her into heatstroke, but definitely play until she’s pooped. Keep your exercise program breed-appropriate – an athletic Border Collie will need lots more physical challenges than an English Bulldog.

Don’t think that a walk around the block will do it. A walk on leash, even a long walk, is nothing but an exercise hors d’oeurve for a young dog. You’re tired when you get home from the walk, but your dog is just getting warmed up! If no one in the family has time to give your dog adequate exercise, arrange for a pet sitter to come by a couple of times a day and wear her out, or take her to doggie daycare as often as possible. Eight hours of romping with other dogs is guaranteed to take the wind out of her sails! (See “All in a Day’s Care,” Whole Dog Journal April 2001.)

Caution: Check with your veterinarian prior to starting your dog on a vigorous exercise program. Just as with humans, too much exercise too suddenly can damage canine joints and muscles. Out-of-shape and overweight dogs especially will need to ease into a physical exercise program.

Mental exercise is an often-overlooked but valuable tool in your UC arsenal. Mind games can be every bit as tiring for your dog as running games, and are a good choice in conjunction with physical exercise during inclement weather, and/or as an alternative for dogs with physical limitations. Interactive toys, shaping games, and clicker training are all good mind candy for your overactive canine pal. (See “Mind Games,” October 2004.)

Manage: The second piece of a successful UC program is management. In addition to regular exercise, you can make other changes in your dog’s routine to manage inappropriate behavior.

If your high-energy dog grabs forbidden objects and races around the house, it’s probably because she’s learned that this triggers a wonderful game of “chase the dog!” This is very fun and rewarding for her – and behaviors that are rewarded increase. The management answer is to keep forbidden objects out of her reach, and avoid falling into her trap of chasing when she grabs something. Instead, walk to your cupboard, take out a tasty treat, and offer to trade for the object. Then put it out of her reach. (For much more on managing your dog’s behavior, see “Upper Level Management,” August 2001.)

Another piece of the management puzzle is physically controlling your dog’s behavior through the judicious use of leashes, pens, crates, and tethers. (See “Tethered to Success,” April 2001, and “Crate Training Made Easy,” August 2000.)

Training: The final important element of your UC program is training. The more training you do with your dog the easier it is to communicate with her. The better she understands your communications, the easier it is for her to follow your instructions and comply with your requests.

Click for calm
Whether you have a baby dog with normal puppy energy, an obstreperous teenager, or an adult dog who has good manners lessons to catch up on, clicker training can be a magically effective and gentle way to convince a dog to calm down. No yelling, no physical punishment; just clicks and treats for any pause in the action.

The biggest challenge with a high energy dog is that the instant you try to praise or reward, she’s bouncing off the walls again. Timing and consistency are key to successful training. If a reward is given more than a second or two beyond the desired behavior, the dog has lost the connection, and believes she’s being rewarded for whatever she’s doing now.

It’s nearly impossible to have good timing if it requires delivering the treat to the excitable dog while she’s momentarily calm. By the time you get the treat to her mouth she’s once again doing her Bouncing Betty act. She may well perceive the treat as a reward for her jumping jacks rather than for the sought-after calmness that occurred briefly, several seconds ago.

However, once a dog has learned the connection between the “click” and a pending reward, your timing can be impeccable: an instant of calm elicits a “click” – the treat can arrive several seconds later. An added advantage of the clicker is that most dogs, when they hear the click, pause in anticipation of the coming morsel, drawing out the brief period of relatively calm behavior even longer.

At the same time you’re laying a foundation of exercise and management, you can begin an effective clicker-training program. Don’t procrastinate – you can accomplish this on the first day of your UC program.

Start by “charging the clicker” – officially known in behavior circles as “conditioning the reward marker.” Begin by clicking the clicker in your pocket, to avoid startling your dog with the sharp sound. Click the clicker, feed your dog a treat. Click and treat. Click and treat. As she begins to associate the sound with the treat, bring the clicker out of your pocket and click it in a more natural position at your side or your waist.

Your dog doesn’t have to do anything special to get the click and treat, as long as she isn’t doing something unacceptable, like jumping on you or chewing the corner of the coffee table. If necessary, use a leash or tether to keep her out of trouble while you click and treat. Most dogs realize within a half-dozen repetitions that the click means a treat is coming. When your dog’s ears perk and her eyes brighten at the sound of the click, you know she’s getting it. Now you can use your charged clicker for training.

The goal of clicker training is to get your dog to understand that she can make the click happen by offering certain behaviors – in this case, calm. At first, you can’t wait for long, leisurely stretches of calm behavior to click; you won’t get them! You might begin by giving your dog a click and treat just because all four feet are on the floor at the same instant. Be quick! You want her to understand that the behavior she was rewarded for was pausing with all four feet on the floor, so your timing needs to be sharp; the click needs to happen the instant all four feet are down. If you click late, you may be reinforcing her bouncing around – the exact opposite of what you want!

If your timing is good and you catch her with four-on-the-floor several times in a row you’ll see her start to stand still deliberately, in order to make the clicker go off. Light bulb moment! A door has opened in her brain, and you can now see her thinking. This, to me, is one of the most exciting moments in dog training – when the dog realizes that she can control the clicker. A whole new world of communication has just opened to her. You now have a very powerful tool in your little plastic clicker box. You can use it to reinforce any behavior you want, any time it happens, and your dog will quickly start repeating that behavior for you.

Okay, back to calm. How does “pausing briefly on all four feet” translate into a calm dog? Very gradually. You are going to “shape” the pause into longer and longer periods of stillness, by extending the time, in milliseconds at first, that you wait as she is standing still before you click and treat. If you err and she starts to jump around again, just wait. Eventually, there will be another pause that you can click, and then start the shaping again.

As she gets better at being calm for longer and longer periods, be sure to reinforce randomly – sometimes for shorter pauses, sometimes longer. If you just keep making it harder and harder – longer and longer – she may get frustrated and quit playing the game.

Each training session should be relatively short, to avoid frustration for both of you, but you can do several in a day. You’ll have the most success, at least at first, if you practice clicking calm right after one of her exercise sessions when she’s tired anyway. As she gets the idea that “calm” is a very rewardable behavior, it will work even when she has more energy.

When your dog is holding still for several seconds at a time, add the verbal cue of your choice – something like “Easy!”, that you will be able to use (eventually) to cue her into calmness. Over time, you’ll be able to phase out the click and treat for calm behavior and use other rewards such as calm praise, a gentle massage, or an invitation to lie quietly next to you on the sofa.

Go to your place
You can use your management tether and your clicker to teach your dog a very useful calming exercise, called “go to your place.” Fix up her tether station so it’s very comfortable, with a soft bed, really good chew toys, and unspillable water. Toss a treat onto the bed and say “go to your place.”

When she gets there and is about to snatch up the treat, click your clicker. Repeat several times, clicking and treating each time, until she goes to her spot easily. Then attach the tether to her collar. Sit in a chair nearby but out of her reach, and read a book.

If she fusses, ignore her. When she’s quiet, click, and toss her a treat. This is “positive reinforcement” – her good behavior makes something good happen – she gets a click and treat. Occasionally when she’s being calm, get up, go over to her bed and quietly pet and praise her. This is also positive reinforcement. If she starts to get excited when you’re with her, go back to your chair and sit down again. This is “negative punishment” – her inappropriate behavior makes something good go away – you leave. Negative punishment is considered effective and humane by most positive trainers.

When she’s calm on her tether for long stretches – up to 5 or 10 minutes with occasional treats and visits – you can remove the tether and continue to reward her for lying calmly on her bed. If she revs up again, re-tether her and practice more calm. You’ll also want to practice this when you have visitors. First, give your dog an extra tiring play-session before your guests arrive so she can be on her best behavior. Have her on her bed, tethered if necessary, and wait until she’s calm to allow guests to greet her. When she’s relaxed, untether her so she can mingle with the visitors politely. If she gets carried away, she can do another session on her tether.

Self control
Dogs who have a great deal of trouble with the concept of calm are often dogs who have difficulty with impulse control. The “wait” exercise can be a very useful part of your UC program, especially for dogs who are short on impulse control. I teach the wait behavior using my dogs’ food bowls, and at doorways. Since they get two meals a day and I let them in and out several times in any given 24-hour period, we have countless built-in opportunities to practice this important self-control skill. Once they learn it, the self-control “wait” easily generalizes to other situations.

Here’s how I teach them:

Wait for food: With your dog sitting at your side, tell her to “wait.” Hold the food bowl (with food it in, topped with tasty treats) at your chest, then move it toward the floor 4 to 6 inches. If your dog stays sitting, click and feed her a treat from the bowl. If your dog gets up, say “Oops!” and ask her to sit again. If she remains sitting, lower the bowl 4 to 6 inches again, click and treat. Repeat this step several times until she consistently remains sitting as you lower the bowl.

Gradually move the bowl closer to the floor with succeeding repetitions until you can place it on the floor without your dog trying to get up or eat it. Finally, place the bowl on the floor and tell her to eat. After she’s had a few bites, lift the bowl up and try again, lowering the bowl a little farther this time. Repeat these steps until you can place the bowl on the floor and she doesn’t move until you tell her she can.

Any time your dog starts to get up as you move the bowl toward the floor, use the “oops” no-reward marker to let her know getting up makes the good stuff go away, and raise the bowl out of her reach. Have her sit and try again. If she gets up several times in a row, you are asking for too much too soon; move the bowl in smaller increments.

Caution: If your dog guards valuable resources such as her food bowl, consult with a qualified positive behavior professional before trying this exercise. Wait at the door: With your dog sitting at your side, tell her to “wait.” Reach for the doorknob. If she doesn’t move, click and treat. Repeat this step several times. Then jiggle the door knob. Click and reward her for not moving. Repeat this step several times. Slowly open the door a crack. Again, click and treat if she doesn’t move, and repeat. Gradually open the door farther, an inch or two at a time. Do several repetitions at each step, with clicks and treats each time.

Eventually you’ll be able to walk all the way through the door, stop, and face your dog, without having her move. Wait a few seconds, click, then return and give her a tasty treat. Of course, sometimes you’ll actually give her the okay to go out the door ¨C she has to go out sometime!

If you have multiple dogs, teach them each to wait at the door, and then you can really have fun! Using a little body-blocking as necessary – stepping in front of the dog(s) you’re not releasing – invite them out the door one at a time by name. This is very useful for those times when you really do only want one or two – not all – your dogs to go with you to the outside world.

UC in the Miller household
As I write this, our dogs are, indeed, calm. Lucy, a high-energy Cardigan Corgi (who has difficulty with impulse control), is in the living room watching a football game on the recliner with my husband Paul. Missy, an older but still active Australian Shepherd, is snoozing in her crate in the living room, while Dubhy the Scottie is sound asleep on the other recliner. Bonnie, a young Corgi/Scottie mix, is curled up in her crate under the table in my office. There’s no movement from any of them.

This doesn’t happen by accident. Most mornings we’re up and out to the barn to feed horses by 5:30 am, dogs at our heels. Their first hour of the day is spent chasing dog toys (and each other) up and down the barn aisle, playing “king of the hay bales,” scavenging for dropped bits of grain, and pretending to herd horses as we lead them out to their pastures. This uses up enough energy that the pack can spend a quiet morning in the house with me while I’m on the computer.

Later on, weather permitting, we share lunch in the backyard. Lucy retrieves toys that I toss for her while I eat, and Bonnie retrieves Lucy. Missy and Dubhy, older and less energetic, watch calmly.

There are a variety of other activities we might incorporate into our day, including training sessions, and games with interactive toys. Lucy is especially taken with the new generation of puzzle toys, such as ZooActive’s Dog Tornado. [Editor’s note: Pat will be reviewing the entire line of ZooActive’s interactive puzzles for dogs, from Pawlickers.com, in an upcoming issue.]

Sometimes one or more of the dogs is called into service as a neutral dog for a dog-reactive private client, or a canine play-partner for a soft or undersocialized dog who doesn’t engage well with others during group class playtime. On a really good day we set aside time for a dog-pack hike around our 80-acre farm. This is, without a doubt, the Miller dogs’ favorite activity. And, of course, we always practice wait for food bowls and at doors.

None of this wears them out completely. The instant I roll my chair away from my desk, three sets of girlie dog-paws leap into action and three pairs of canine eyes light up at the prospect of the next activity. (Dubhy, the true sloth of the group, conserves energy, happy to lie in his crate until he’s convinced there’s something exciting in the offing – for sure.) What the Miller UC program does do is give our dogs enough exercise, management, training – and love – to allow them to be relaxed and calm when I need them to be.

Pat Miller, CPDT, is Whole Dog Journal’s Training Editor. Miller lives in Hagerstown, Maryland, site of her Peaceable Paws training center. Pat is also author of The Power of Positive Dog Training; Positive Perspectives: Love Your Dog, Train Your Dog; and Positive Perspectives II: Know Your Dog, Train Your Dog. See “Resources,” page 24.

Additional Whole Dog Journal 2008 Approved Dry Foods

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This is absolutely not an excuse, but do us a favor and look at the incredible accumulation of minute facts about dog foods that appeared in the February issue and in this one; it may have been inevitable that we made a few small mistakes. We apologize for any inconvenience we have caused through the following errors and/or oversights:

  • The section on Wellness should have mentioned both Wellness and Wellness Simple Food Solutions; both lines of food are on our “approved dry dog food” list. We also listed Wellness’s physical and website addresses incorrectly; the company is in Tewksbury, Massachusetts, and the website is wellnesspetfood.com.
  • Solid Gold sent us their materials too late for us to include their products in our “approved dry dog foods” list in the February issue; their product information appears here now.
  • Due to an editing error, we failed to include the information sent to us by Pet Chef Express in the same “approved foods” list; their product information is also included here now.
  • We meant to note that a major feature of SmartPak’s LiveSmart food is its unique packaging and direct-shipping option. If desired, SmartPak will seal your dog’s food in individually customized daily portion packages; this is for an additional monthly fee of $6.95 (shipping is free). This way, the food is “just-opened” fresh every day! It also makes it easy to keep your dog on a diet, especially if portion control is a problem with the people who feed the dog in your house.
  • This one was totally not our fault! “Light Up the Night” – a review of nighttime visibility products in the January issue contained an inaccuracy in the description of our top pick in reflective collars. Glow Dog, based in Ashland, Massachusetts, makes the most amazing reflective products for dogs and their handlers. The products look normal in daylight, but reflect very brightly when headlights are trained on them.

Our only criticism of Glow Dog’s products noted that its reflective collar lacked a D-ring for a leach attachment, an oversight we didn’t understand. Glow Dog responded that of course its collars had D-rings, and they sent us some more collars as proof. But the one we received as a sample really didn’t! Apparently it was a dud, sent to us in error. Glow Dog says, “We stand behind our 100% satisfaction guarantee!”

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If you receive a Glow Dog product that doesn’t seem right, contact the company at (888) 456-9364 for a refund or a replacement. Glow Dog website (glowdog.com) is currently under construction; products can be purchased through nite-gear.com.

Whole Dog Journal’s 2008 Approved Grain-Free Dry Dog Foods

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Last month’s issue contained our annual review of dry dog foods, but with an exception from our usual format: This year, we decided to break out grain-free dry dog foods from the increasingly populated and competitive pack of terrific kibbled products on the market. We did not review them in the February issue, but will discuss grain-free foods at length here.

In 2005, Natura Pet Products was the first pet food company to manufacture and market a grain-free kibble, which was initially called Innova Evo (and is now called simply Evo). The success of the product, in the market and with many of the dogs fed the diet, sparked a proliferation of grain-free foods. We were able to find more than a dozen companies that currently offer one or more grain-free foods that meet our selection criteria.

Grain-free dry foods are still new enough that many dog owners wonder whether grain-free products are healthy for dogs – and how it’s even possible to make a dry dog food without grain.

Early pet food manufacturers used grain and grain by-products cast off by the human food manufacturing industry because they were readily available, relatively inexpensive, and functional. The choice wasn’t made because dogs needed grain, but because dogs could utilize them.

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Dogs have no dietary requirement for grains, and are physically not well suited to harvest, chew, and digest them. Biologists who study wild canines argue vociferously about the importance of the grains that are consumed by the dog’s prey and are in turn taken in by the dog through consumption of his prey’s digestive tract – but most agree that the percentage of grain in the dog’s evolutionary diet is tiny.

The fact that the dog will eat grains and can derive benefits from them is less indicative of the suitability of dietary grain for canines and more of a testament to the dog’s long evolutionary history of eating anything and benefiting from it.

Plus, laboratory studies have proven that dogs have no dietary requirement for carbohydrates whatsoever; dogs can survive and thrive on diets containing only animal protein and fat.

The last – but not least – impetus for creating grain-free dog foods is the fact that some dogs are intolerant of or allergic to cereal grains. For these animals, grain-free foods often produce amazing results, as chronic symptoms of intolerance or allergy go away, and the dogs begin to thrive – perhaps for the first time in their lives.

Features of grain-free foods
When manufacturing grain-free kibble, whether baked, extruded, or dehydrated, most pet food companies replace grains with other carbohydrate sources; “grain-free” does not mean “carb-free.” To calculate the percentage of carbohydrates in a food, start with 100, and subtract the percentages of protein, fat, moisture, and ash. The remainder is the carbohydrate content.

The role that carbohydrates play in grain-free dry dog foods varies quite a bit. Some companies have produced foods that are very high in protein and fat, with low levels of carbohydrates. Others have taken a more moderate approach, creating products that are higher in carbohydrates, and with protein and fat levels that more closely resemble the levels found in conventional, grain-filled dry dog foods. A dog owner who is considering a grain-free food has to look at the following to determine which of the products would be most appropriate for her dog:

Amount of protein. High-protein diets are generally suggested for dogs with high-stress, high-activity lifestyles. Recent studies have suggested that a high-protein, low-carbohydrate diet helps fat dogs lose weight more efficiently than higher-carb diets that contain fewer calories. Diets with more moderate levels of high-quality protein are suggested for dogs with kidney disease.

Amount of fat. Some of these foods contain very high levels of fat. High-fat foods are most appropriate for hard-working dogs, dogs in extremely cold environments, breeding animals, dogs with cancer (who benefit from low-carbohydrate diets), and “hard keepers” – dogs who are chronically thin. High-fat diets are not appropriate for overweight dogs.

Amount of carbohydrates. If an owner is trying to feed a moderate protein, low-fat food, the diet will necessarily contain higher levels of carbs. This is a perfectly fine formula for many dogs. Just keep in mind that high-carb diets cause blood sugar fluctuations and insulin resistance – bad for dogs with or prone to diabetes. And dogs with cancer should eat high-fat, low- or no-carb diets (canine cancer cells utilize carbohydrates for growth).

Calcium and phosphorus levels.Calories. Some grain-free diets are very calorie-dense. Large- and giant-breed puppies, in particular, should not be fed high-calorie diets. And portion control is critical when feeding a high-calorie diet to a dog of any age.

Choices
On the following pages, we’ve highlighted some grain-free dry dog foods that meet our selection criteria for a top-quality food. On pages 16-17, we have identified 12 pet food makers with top-quality grain-free offerings, and we’ve highlighted the ingredients of one food from each company. The foods are presented in alphabetical order of their makers.

On pages 18-19, we delve deeper into the nutrient content of each highlighted food, including the amounts of protein, fat, carbs, calcium, and phosphorus (as well as other nutrients, as you’ll see).

Though each of these products meets our selection criteria, as we have just explained, only you can select the grain-free food that’s appropriate for your dog, using the nutrient values on our charts.

Keep in mind that these foods are not perfect for every dog; some dogs do better on a diet that contains grain!

An In-Depth Look at Typical Nutrient Levels in Commerical Dog Foods

On the previous pages and above, we’ve highlighted grain-free foods from 12 companies. Given a smaller field of foods than we feature in our review of conventional dry dog foods (which appears in each February’s issue), and given the fact that these companies have taken such disparate approaches to formulating their grain-free products, we decided that now would be a perfect time to discuss the variations in nutrient levels found in pet foods.

As we discussed in detail in “Take it With a Block of Salt,” (February 2007), it comes as a surprise to many dog owners that foods that are labeled as “complete and balanced” can actually contain a wide range of nutrient levels. While they probably contain at least a minimum of nutrients your dog needs, various “complete and balanced” foods do not provide equal amounts of essential nutrients!

On the following pages, we’ve charted the nutrient levels contained in each of the products highlighted on the previous pages. Take a look at how different they are – and let this information guide your selection of a product that’s most appropriate for your dog.

Why these nutrients?
In order to sell its products as “complete and balanced” for dogs, pet food makers have to ensure that the products meet certain requirements. The first way they can accomplish this is to formulate the candidate product so that the nutrients it contains fall within parameters developed by a quasi-governmental industry group, the Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO).

AAFCO is not an enforcement or regulatory agency. Rather, it is comprised of feed control officials from each state, who get together to research, discuss, and develop model feed control policies (which are generally adopted, with some exceptions, by the individual states).

Over the decades, AAFCO members have mined facts and conclusions from nutritional studies conducted by industry and university researchers. Their goal has been the ongoing development and refinement of a set of recommendations: the AAFCO Dog and Cat Food Nutrient Profiles. The profiles include values for each of the nutrients currently understood to be essential for maintaining dogs or cats. For most of the nutrients, only a minimum value is offered; maximum “safe” values are known for only a small number of nutrients (mostly minerals, as well as vitamins A, D, and E).

The AAFCO Dog Food Nutrient Profiles include values for the following nutrients:

Crude protein, as well as the 10 amino acids known to be essential for maintaining canine health. (Many studies suggest that dogs would benefit from the addition of a minimum requirement for taurine, but this is still controversial among nutrition experts. Many dog food makers add taurine to their products anyway.)

Crude fat, as well as linoleic acid, an Omega 6 fatty acid.

Twelve minerals, including the two most important ones – calcium and phosphorus – which must be present in a specified range of ratios to each other.

Eleven vitamins. (A case can be made for the need to add minimum levels of vitamin K and biotin to the AAFCO profiles. Again, this is still controversial. Many dog food makers add vitamin K and/or biotin to their products.)

The AAFCO nutrient profiles (and our chart on the following pages) are expressed on what’s called a “dry matter” (DM) basis, making it possible to accurately compare foods that contain varying amounts of moisture.

Most pet food labels express their contents on an “as fed” basis, which includes the moisture present in the food. To convert an “as fed” value from the label of a dog food bag, divide the value listed by the percentage of the food that is not moisture. For example, say a label reports that a food contains 28% protein and 10% moisture. Divide 28 by 90 (the percentage of the food that is not moisture) and you get 31 – the percentage of protein in the food on a DM basis.

Other paths to adequacy
A company can also make a claim of nutritional adequacy for its candidate product based on feeding trials of the food that are conducted according to AAFCO protocols. In this case, the label will reference this, not the nutrient levels of the food.

Be aware that foods that have met the “feeding trials” standard may not meet all of the AAFCO nutrient profiles, and that foods that met the “nutrient levels” standard were not required to pass a feeding trial.

Try not to think about the third method of achieving a “complete and balanced” status. It won’t be hard, because you won’t see any mention of it on a product label. Referred to as the “family member” rule, it allows a manufacturer to use the “feeding trial” claim if the maker can demonstrate that a new product bears a “nutritional similarity” to one of its products that has already passed a feeding trial.

For each of the foods we’ve highlighted as “top grain-free dry dog foods,” we’ve charted the values (right) for each of the nutrients in the AAFCO profiles. We’ve noted at the bottom of the columns which foods met the “complete and balanced” nutritional adequacy requirements via the “nutrient levels” standard, and which met the “feeding trials” standard. You may notice that when you see values that lie outside (or close to the edges of) the AAFCO profiles, you’re almost always looking at a food that met the feeding trials standard.

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By the way, we gathered the data for this table from the food makers themselves. Any food company ought to be able to produce this information to interested consumers in a snap, though we were dismayed to discover that some companies seemed to have trouble fulfilling our request. This is troubling, because their foods should be frequently tested to make sure their formulas are consistently producing the intended nutrient levels.

In contrast, we hugely appreciate and applaud companies like Natura Pet Products (maker of Evo), which keeps the complete typical nutrient analysis for each of its foods published on its website.

Why switching foods is a good idea
We’ve always found it fascinating that many otherwise knowledgeable dog owners and industry professionals (including veterinarians and long-time breeders) are unaware of the fact that different “complete and balanced” dog foods may display widely divergent amounts of the nutrients that are essential for their pet’s health.

Most foods have some nutrient levels that are relatively low and others that may be a bit high. Imagine that a dog is given a lifetime diet that is a bit low in some nutrients and a bit high in others. Over time, fed a diet solely comprised of that food, the dog’s body will become a figurative model of those nutrient levels, for better or worse. This is exactly why humans are told to eat a variety of healthy foods – to prevent this very scenario! Now, why would such a feeding plan make sense for canines, but not humans? It doesn’t!

We consider all of the foods mentioned here to be of very high quality – but we wouldn’t want a dog to eat only one of any of these (or any other) food for the rest of his life!

Chiropractors for Canines

Everyone knows that chiropractors are bone and joint doctors. They help alleviate back pain and other aches by making adjustments that improve skeletal alignment and musculoskeletal function. In recent years, chiropractic adjustments have become popular for dogs, especially those recovering from accidents or injuries.

But did you know that chiropractic care can improve a dog’s digestion; speed healing after illness or surgery; treat behavior or mood changes; help alleviate ear infections, urinary incontinence, and allergies; and even correct neurological imbalances?

Cheryl Morris, DC (Doctor of Chiro-practic), a chiropractor for humans in Congers, New York, knew something was wrong with Stanley Queue, her five-year-old Scottie. He vomited spontaneously three or four times a day several times a week, and when she palpated his abdomen, his diaphragm felt tight.

Stanley’s digestive problems were her main concern, but he also limped because of hind leg weakness. Five months ago, she took him to chiropractic veterinarian Sue Ann Lesser, DVM. Dr. Lesser conducts monthly animal chiropractic clinics in New York, New Jersey, Pennsylvania, Connecticut, and Maryland.

“After that first adjustment,” says Dr. Morris, “Stanley’s tail was up for the first time in months, he walked normally, and he went for an entire week without throwing up. Even after his vomiting returned, it happened less often and was less intense.”

Dr. Lesser suggested a change of diet, so Dr. Morris switched dog food brands and protein sources. “That made a big difference,” she says. “At his second appointment, his thoracic lumbar junction needed adjustment, and after that he kept improving. So far Stanley has had five adjustments, and he keeps getting better.”

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In another chiropractic success story, Cassie, a spayed female Shepherd mix, suffered from urinary incontinence until chiropractic veterinarian Cindy Maro, DVM, adjusted her fifth lumbar vertebrae, sacral apex, and the base of her sacral bone. As soon as she did so, Cassie’s urinary leakage and long-term bowel and anal gland problems disappeared. (We discussed this case in more detail in “Not Just for Sore Backs,” Whole Dog Journal October 2003.)

Some breeders coping with reproductive problems consider chiropractic a fertility treatment because so many of their dogs conceived after being adjusted.

Even hot spots and lick granulomas may respond to chiropractic adjustments. Last summer my Labrador Retriever, Chloe, developed a lick granuloma on her right front paw. At her monthly appointment, Dr. Lesser said, “I’m not surprised. Her toes were jammed.” After a quick toe-freeing adjustment, Chloe forgot about chewing her foot.

Chloe’s problem had a mechanical cause, but dozens of conditions that have no obvious connection to the skeleton and its alignment respond to chiropractic treatment. As the American Veterinary Chiropractic Association (AVCA) website explains, all of the body’s organs are connected to nerves that run between vertebrae, and adjustments in these areas can change or influence nervous system input and blood flow as well as hormones and neurotransmitter levels directly affecting organs, glands, skin, and joints.

“Every dog is an individual,” Dr. Lesser says, “and responses vary, but I truly can’t think of a medical condition that won’t be helped in some way by chiropractic adjustments. I’m never surprised when dogs respond to chiropractic treatment, even for conditions like infections, skin and coat problems, digestive disorders, behavioral problems, and recovery from the use of anesthesia. This doesn’t mean that chiropractic care is a stand-alone treatment that replaces conventional veterinary care. Chiropractic is a complementary or support therapy. A thorough veterinary exam should always precede any chiropractic evaluation.”

To help determine whether your dog will benefit from chiropractic treatment, see “Biomechanical Evaluation” by Randy Kidd, DVM, PhD (August 2002 Whole Dog Journal). Dr. Kidd’s descriptions and checklists will help you see your dog from a new perspective, keep accurate health records, and make more informed decisions about your dog’s care.

America’s veterinary chiropractors
The formal training of veterinary chiropractors in the U.S. began in 1989 with a 100-hour post-graduate course developed and taught by Sharon Willoughby, DVM, DC, in which veterinarians and chiropractors were trained side by side. In programs approved by the AVCA, that practice continues today. Veterinarians receive a foundation of chiropractic theory and technique, while chiropractors study common animal diseases, comparative anatomy, and animal-handling techniques. Adjustments are taught with both dogs and horses.

Licensing regulations vary by state. In New York, where Dr. Morris adjusts human patients, chiropractic treatment can be given to dogs and other animals only by licensed veterinarians. Even if she studied veterinary chiropractic, Dr. Morris could not legally treat animal patients in New York State. Across the border in New Jersey, Dr. Morris could practice on animals with a veterinarian’s referral. Currently no states allow chiropractors to work on animals without a veterinarian’s referral or, as in California, a vet’s supervision.

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Are the approaches of veterinarians who learn chiropractic techniques and chiropractors who learn about veterinary medicine different? Because of their training, chiropractors are likely to have a better understanding of the actual adjustment technique, while veterinarians are more familiar with animal anatomy, handling methods, and specific illnesses.

But it’s more likely that personality traits, interests, experience, and other factors will determine which veterinary chiropractor will best help your dog. The same is true when choosing a chiropractor or healthcare practitioner for yourself.

The AVCA defines a chiropractic adjustment as “a short-lever, high-velocity controlled thrust by hand or instrument that is directed at specific articulations to correct vertebral subluxations.”

“Subluxation” describes the misalignment of vertebrae resulting in a disturbance of normal function. Subluxations may cause animals and people to compensate for resulting pain with changes in posture or movement, such as shifting weight or avoiding certain motions. Secondary subluxations can occur in other parts of the spine as a result, creating complications.

When a vertebral subluxation is diagnosed, the chiropractor re-establishes normal motion with an adjustment. When properly performed, this thrust mobilizes or frees the vertebrae and restores normal function in that spinal segment. As a result, spinal adjustments may reverse a variety of nerve, muscle, and motion problems.

Subluxations can cause abnormal or uneasy posture while standing or sitting, a refusal or unwillingness to go over jumps, the development of unusual behavior patterns such as biting or growling, unusual sensitivity to touch, a lack of coordination or gait abnormality, stiffness on rising, stiffness in lateral movements of the back or neck, muscle atrophy, lameness in hindquarters, abnormal biting or chewing of the coat or tail, increased sensitivity to heat or cold, and limited range of motion.

“The problems that subluxations cause might be visible and obvious, or they may still be developing,” says animal chiropractor Marc L. Sommer, DC, of Pompton Lakes, New Jersey. “We think of the subluxation as the problem, its adjustment as the cure, and the improvement of symptoms as a desired side-effect. Most animals show significant improvement after one to four adjustments.”

In chiropractic examinations, major muscle groups are checked for atrophy, hypertrophy, tone, symmetry, heat, tenderness, and pain. In addition, the spine is palpated and examined for abnormal protuberances, restricted motion, and other unusual features.

Some veterinary chiropractors use only their hands while others employ a small spring-loaded impacting device called an activator to provide mechanical-force, manually assisted adjustments. Both methods have their proponents, and individual preferences vary. (All of the practitioners mentioned here use their bare hands.)

Large and unwieldy devices like mallets or hammers are not needed to adjust even the largest animals, says Dr. Sommer, and they can create more acute and serious conditions. Other procedures that he warns against include the use of excessive force and jerking on the legs or tail. “These practices do not constitute a chiropractic adjustment, and they may exacerbate an already existing injury,” he says. “Remember that skill, not extreme force, is the key to successful adjustments.”

Typical patients
Trauma injuries remain the number one reason for bringing a dog to a veterinary chiropractor.

“When a dog is hurt, it’s important to deal with fractures and internal injuries first,” says Dr. Lesser, “but after that, chiropractic care speeds recovery from any injury, including being hit by a large object like a car, bus, train, or another dog of equal or greater size. Dogs often injure themselves by body slamming, playing bump-and-run, and other canine games. Or they hit a large immoveable object such as a wall while playing ‘magic carpet ride,’ or they fall off the porch, deck, bed, or dog walk, or down a flight of stairs.”

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Among medical maladies, she says, chiropractic adjustments speed recovery from surgery and the use of general anesthesia as well as chronic ear infections, especially those that occur in only one ear, and a host of structural problems.

For example, dogs with hip dysplasia often feel better when adjusted. “While chiropractic cannot cure the bilaterally dysplastic dog, they are more comfortable when the rest of the body moves properly,” says Dr. Lesser. “Dogs with unilateral hip dysplasia in the absence of trauma have sacral-pelvic misalignments that biomechanically stretch the ligaments and joint capsule of the hip. Straightening the dog’s hind end and specifically conditioning the dog will often eliminate unilateral hip dysplasia.”

Chiropractic adjustments can be used to treat persistent lameness, including lameness that does not respond to anti-inflammatory therapy and chronic lameness that is secondary to long-term orthopedic treatment like cruciate ligament surgery. “It might not be the surgically treated elbow or knee that is bugging the dog,” Dr. Lesser explains. “The problem may be the compensations that his body has made since the knee or elbow was injured.”

Disc disease at any spinal level or severity, she cautions, should be treated only in conjunction with conventional or holistic veterinary care. Acupuncture combined with chiropractic care may improve the outcome.

Dogs with arthritis usually respond well to chiropractic adjustments in conjunction with acupuncture and medical therapy, including the use of nutritional supplements such as Glycoflex or Cosequin, says Dr. Lesser. “These treatments can provide the arthritic dog with a better quality of life. Interestingly, dogs with significant arthritic changes seen in their x-rays usually have good mobility in their joints, while older dogs with ‘clean’ x-rays usually have a reduced range of motion.”

Another of Dr. Lesser’s risk categories is what she calls “occupational hazards.”

“Here we have dogs who were playing or working and then became acutely lame. Their lameness usually improves with minimal conventional treatment, but after that the dog is never ‘quite right.’ The category includes all competition dogs at all levels. Any decrease in performance is a symptom, such as a competition dog who isn’t placing or scoring as high as previously, won’t hold a sit/stay, won’t ‘stack’ (hold a pose in the conformation show ring) without shifting, is suddenly slow to retrieve, or simply doesn’t work as well or as enthusiastically as previously.”

Dr. Lesser lists poor leash manners as the number-one cause of cervical (neck) problems, followed by inappropriate leash corrections as the number-two cause. “And then there are all the problems that come with always heeling on only one side in both breed and obedience,” she adds. “Any unilateral activity creates muscle imbalances that can profoundly affect the dog’s gait. For every five minutes that a dog heels on the left, he should heel on the right. Dogs do not have difficulty switching sides; people do. In addition, dogs who routinely turn in one direction while racing out the kitchen door to chase squirrels will exhibit much the same subluxation patterns as dogs who heel only on the left side.”

Dr. Lesser’s final risk category is something she calls “dogs are dogs.” Here she includes any American-bred German Shepherd Dog more than four years of age; dogs who vigorously play ball, Frisbee, and fetch games; dogs who chase squirrels, cats, and other creatures; dogs whose notion of fun is a flying leap into space; dogs who play actively in deep snow, especially those who bound, porpoise, plow, or tunnel; and any dog who has way too much fun.

“While subtle at first,” she says, “over time minor injuries associated with these activities accumulate and your exuberant playmate becomes an ‘old arthritic dog’ well before his time. Then he won’t jump onto the couch or bed, won’t go up or down stairs, won’t jump in or out of the car, and is slow to stand up or lie down.”

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To this list of conditions and symptoms that respond to chiropractic adjustments, the AVCA adds old age, any chronic health problems that do not resolve as expected, and seizures or neurological problems.

 

Chiropractic assessment
What do veterinary chiropractors look for when they first see a patient? Dr. Lesser observes the dog’s posture, as well as his level of alertness when he initially enters the treatment area. Then she has the patient walk with his handler away from and toward her while she checks his tail position, gait, and overall appearance.

“The dog may show a personality change by seeming not as active or happy as usual,” she explains. “He may start snapping or look like he has a headache or an anxious facial expression. The tail might not wag symmetrically, or it may be clamped or held straight out from the body. I look for a rolling motion through the back, which might not be there or it may stop at one point. When I touch the dog, there might be a lumpy or bumpy feeling through the spine, especially near the back of the rib cage. In severe cases, the back may look like a tent. I notice whether the dog’s head is tilted or the dog has trouble turning his head in one direction, including up or down.

“The dog might scuff one foot while gaiting, the hind legs may look stilted, or there can be a lack of symmetry from limb to limb. Most commonly there is a catch or rattle through the shoulder or hock, or differences in muscling. The skin on one area of the back may move or wiggle when touched. One side of the dog’s croup may be higher than the other.”

In contrast, Dr. Lesser explains, “Correctly aligned dogs have a certain presence and glow about them, and they’re so balanced that your eye isn’t drawn to any particular part of the body. If your eye is drawn to the back, pelvis, head, or other part, it’s because something there isn’t moving correctly. Any dog whose appearance invites meticulous analysis of gait should be chiropractically examined.”

Most dogs accept their chiropractic examination and treatment without significant discomfort, and practitioners are trained to use gentle techniques to reduce pain before delivering adjustments. Patients typically show immediate improvement, though adjustments are often followed by 24 to 48 hours of fatigue, and some dogs require several sessions to resolve acute pain and re-establish and maintain normal function of the joints and nervous system.

For your dog’s best treatment response, the AVCA recommends sharing information about her medical history and treatment from all healthcare providers, including diet, supplements, and medications. In addition, be sure you understand the animal chiropractor’s recommendations regarding post-adjustment exercise and home therapy.

 

Trends in canine chiropractic
One of the biggest trends in today’s chiropractic care for animals is the scheduling of monthly appointments for routine maintenance, especially for competition dogs.

“Among performance people,” says Dr. Lesser, “it’s becoming routine to get their dogs adjusted. They have observed that their dogs perform better, stay sounder, have fewer injuries, and in general are ‘healthier’ as a result. My clients have repeatedly commented that their dogs are living longer and with better quality of life in their golden years. Whether that’s due strictly to chiropractic or a combination of chiropractic and better awareness of nutrition, conditioning, and training, I can’t say for sure, but I always feel that I’m part of the team that helps Rover feel better and do better.”

Dr. Lesser, who has taken so many workshops that she calls herself a chiropractic education junkie, recently completed a Master’s Degree in Advanced Neurology of Veterinary Spinal Manipulative Therapy (VSMT), a post-graduate program offered by the Healing Oasis Wellness Center in Sturtevant, Wisconsin.

“My first research paper for this course,” she says, “evaluated whether dogs improve their appearance after an adjustment. According to my panel of experts (two conformation judges and an expert on canine structure) and my professional colleagues in the advanced class, an adjustment does definitely improve the posture and therefore the appearance of dogs.

“My second paper is titled ‘Why Dogs Should Dance: The Neurobiology of Music and Canine Freestyle.’ I have observed through the years that the highest-level freestyle dogs are the most superb athletes in my five-state practice. So I asked the question, ‘Why is that?’ One hundred seventy pages later, I think I found the answer. In a very small way, it’s the canine version of This Is Your Brain on Music, by Daniel J. Levitin, or Musicophilia, by Oliver Sacks.” (For ordering information, see “Resources Mentioned in This Article,” below.)

What is her most interesting or exciting discovery about canine chiropractic? “This question makes me laugh,” she says, “because fellow VSMT practitioners and I are always exclaiming, ‘Hey, this stuff really works!’ Seventeen years ago I took the training to become certified in veterinary chiropractic and was amazed that by mobilizing the joints to move as they should, many positive things happened to the dog’s body.

“Now I’m amazed even more by the changes that result from receptor-based therapy, which is the manipulation of the nervous system through chiropractic adjustments and specific challenges to the senses, such as vision, hearing, smell, proprioceptors, etc. Yes, this neuro stuff really works. The wonderful thing about doing the new receptor-based therapy work, which I consider the cutting edge of canine chiropractic, is that the owners are intimately involved with the therapy homework. If they follow through with the prescribed exercises, incredibly positive changes can and do occur.”

Will your dog benefit from chiropractic? The growing number of qualified practitioners, satisfied clients, and well-adjusted dogs suggest that this hands-on approach to health and healing may improve almost any dog’s quality of life.

 

CJ Puotinen is author of The Encyclopedia of Natural Pet Care, Natural Remedies for Dogs and Cats, and other books (see “Resources,” page 24 for purchasing information). She lives in New York with her husband, a Labrador, and a tabby cat.

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Five Accupressure Points for Your Dog’s Health

Like all mammals, dogs require the same basic constituents that their ancestors did in ancient times. Though dogs have been re-designed by human needs over the centuries, their need for proper food, exercise, rest, play, social interaction, and touch remain the same.

In Chinese medicine, health and emotional well-being are considered to be highly dependent on lifestyle, which can be further supported by acupuncture or acupressure and herbs.

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From the perspective of this ancient medicine, everything is “medicine.” Health is defined as both an internal and external balance of nutrients and energy so that the human and dog alike can function within its environment. The Chinese were interested in how the living body maintains health, thus preventing illness, from season to season and location to location. The goal is to help the body adapt to constant environmental change.

To achieve this goal consistently, Chinese medicine incorporates the “Five Branches,” or stems, as a guide to balance and health. The Five Branches are:

• Food

• Acupuncture/Acupressure

• Tui Na (Chinese meridian massage)

• Chi Gong (exercise)

• Herbs

Species-appropriate food is essential. Exercise and body movement to enliven energy is absolutely necessary. All mammals need to be touched so that the body receives sensory, caring stimulation.

To support the effectiveness of a balanced lifestyle, dog guardians can provide acupressure that corresponds directly with the Five Branches of Chinese medicine. Only holistic veterinarians are allowed to prescribe herbal supplements in most western countries, but as dog guardians we can enhance how well herbs are metabolized by using acupressure. The same is true with acupuncture; only trained veterinarians (or a trained acupuncturist working under the supervision of a veterinarian) can legally perform acupuncture since it is invasive. Guardians, however, can readily offer acupressure for similar effect.

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The Five Branches of Chinese medicine offer a model for living a long, full, and healthy life. The intention underlying the Five Branches is for the animal to remain energetically balanced no matter what the season, the animal’s stage within the canine life cycle, or whether living in a generally cold or hot environment. A dog’s health is dependent on his body’s ability to adapt, and given the right “ingredients,” all dogs can thrive.

An older dog has different requirements for exercise than a younger dog, for instance, but both need exercise to be healthy. In the winter, according to traditional Chinese medicine, a dog needs to retain body heat and should not exercise as exuberantly as he can in the other seasons. This is about paying attention to the animal within the context of the current environment and supporting the dog’s ability to adapt. Each of the Five Branches provides the day-to-day constituents of health.

Acupressure points and the Five Branches
There are specific acupressure points that every dog guardian can use to maintain their dog’s health and further support the animal’s lifestyle.

The first acupressure point, also called “acupoint,” addresses the first essential branch of Chinese medicine (food) as well as the absorption of herbs. The second acupoint identified supports Chi Gong, or body movement and exercise. The Third point relates to Tui Na (pronounced “Tway Nah,” original Chinese meridian massage, which offers calming and mental clarity). The fourth acupoint supports the dog’s overall immune system. And the fifth point is commonly used in health emergencies.

■Stomach 36 (ST 36), Leg 3 Mile, is the “master point” for the gastrointestinal tract and is known to enhance the function of digestion and absorption process, so that the body can break down nutrients from food and herbs, making them bioavailable for absorption.

■Gall Bladder 34 (GB 34), Yang Mound Spring, is the “influential point” for strengthening and increasing the flexibility of tendons and ligaments. Though dogs are cave animals and usually stretch after resting and before exercising, GB 34 maintains the body’s ability to move by keeping the tendons and ligaments supple. Stimulating this point will help minimize physical injuries. This point is known to support emotional balance as well.

■Heart 7 (HT 7), Spirit’s Gate, offers the dog’s heart original, essential energy so that his mind can attain clarity and his emotional state can be generally calm. This point can be used with any stressful situation for your dog.

■Large Intestine 11 (LI 11), Crooked Pond, is known as a powerful immune system strengthening point. LI 11 is a “tonification point”; it enhances the flow of blood and energy throughout the body. It is part of most health-maintenance acupressure protocols.

■Governing Vessel 26 (GV 26), Middle of Man (Dog), promotes resuscitation and consciousness and is often used during a seizure and for traumatic emergencies especially when there is a loss of consciousness. This point is often included in canine first aid courses since it can be used to keep a dog alive while on the way to veterinary care.

These five acupoints are gifts from ancient medicine that we can offer our dogs so that their lives will be filled with optimal physical and emotional health. Sitting down with your dog once a week and slowly holding these points on both sides of his body will go a long way to letting him know how much you treasure his life.

Amy Snow and Nancy Zidonis are the authors of TheWell-ConnectedDog:AGuidetoCanineAcupressure,Acu-Cat:AGuidetoFelineAcupressure,and EquineAcupressure:AWorkingManual. They own Tallgrass Publishers, which offers meridian charts and acupressure DVDs for dogs, cats, and horses. They are also founders of Tallgrass Animal Acupressure Institute, offering hands-on and online training courses worldwide, including a Practitioner Certification Program. See animalacupressure.com or call (888) 841-7211 for more information.

Healing Your Canine with Energy Medicine and Holistic Dog Care Techniques

Can exposure to color change your health? What about tapping on key acupuncture points or other body parts? And is there any way to focus or concentrate naturally occurring energy so that it has a more therapeutic effect?

Veterinarians and other healthcare practitioners who experiment with energy healing deal with these and related questions when they address the “etheric body,” the invisible part of the patient that is also described as the vital or energy body. Improving the etheric body’s energy flow or state, they say, stimulates a self-healing mechanism that encourages the body to repair itself, often in record time.

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In the past four issues, we’ve described a number of “energy medicine” tools such as homeopathy, flower essences, Reiki, crystals, acupuncture, and therapeutic touch. In this article, the conclusion of this series, we’ll describe several more modalities that can be used alone or in combination with conventional or alternative therapies and are widely considered to be free from adverse side effects.

Healing with color
When photobiologist John Ott pioneered time-lapse photography, he discovered the vital role that full-spectrum natural light plays in the development of plants and animals. He also discovered that color can have a profound effect at the cellular level.

Whenever he photographed living cells under electron microscopes, Ott noticed that changing the color filters on his camera lens changed the cells’ behavior. When he was hired to document the effects of pharmaceutical drugs on living cells, lens color changes had a more dramatic effect on the cells than the drugs did.

In animal research, prolonged exposure to a single color has caused female reproductive problems, fur loss, toxic symptoms, digestive disorders, male sterility, abnormal bone development, abnormal body weight, and cataracts.

However, short-term exposure to colors has had the opposite effect. In the late 19th century, English physicians discovered that exposure to light of different colors caused measurable improvements to their patients. Years later, scientists in Europe and elsewhere explored the ways in which exposure to color influences health. In the United States, color was a popular healing therapy until the 1940s and ’50s, when lobbying efforts by conventional physicians convinced the U.S. Food and Drug Administration to make the use and sale of medical color projection equipment illegal.

Many physicians will tell you that color therapy is still on the fringes of modern medicine, but look at some of the applications used today:

• Maternity wards of major hospitals routinely use blue light to treat neonatal jaundice.

• NASA uses red light to speed the healing of injuries in space.

• The U.S. Navy uses colored light to treat injuries.

• Medical research shows that blue light suppresses the metastasis of melanoma cells in mice, red light has anti-inflammatory effects, and full-spectrum light, which contains all colors, is a successful treatment for depression caused by seasonal affective disorder.

• Light-emitting diodes (LEDs) are common in medical devices that relieve pain and fight infection with red, blue, and other colors.

William Campbell Douglass, MD, was newly interested in color treatments when a patient came to him with a large ulcer on the side of her leg. The ulcer was half an inch deep and full of pus – and had plagued the patient for five years. She had tried salves, antibiotics, and various surgical interventions (debridement or scraping) with no improvement.

Bichon Frise

Julianne Bien

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As he describes in his book Color Me Healthy, Dr. Douglass treated the ulcer by shining indigo light on it. The patient continued this therapy at home twice a day, one hour at a time, and soon new skin covered the open sore. Within a week she was free from pain for the first time since the ulcer developed, and six weeks after her initial treatment she returned to show Dr. Douglass a leg that had almost completely healed.

“I know it’s hard to believe,” he says, “but color therapy really works. And not just for external wounds. It also works for many internal ailments at which modern medicine just throws useless drugs and surgery.”

Many veterinarians, ophthalmologists, and other healthcare professionals who treat patients with color follow the guidelines of the Dinshah Health Society, which publishes books and instructions for using Spectro-chrome equipment consisting of color filter material and a light source such as a slide projector, lamp, flashlight, or the sun.

Each color has its own wavelength and frequency. Red, orange, and yellow are stimulating; green is said to bring the body into balance; and blue, indigo, and violet are at the calming or sedating end of the spectrum. The Spectro-chrome system also uses lemon, turquoise, purple, magenta, and scarlet. As explained in Darius Dinshah’s book Let There Be Light, every physical condition has its own protocol or sequence of color treatments, and drinking water can be treated with color for internal and external application.

A more elaborate and expensive color therapy system is the Lumalight, developed by Spectrahue Light & Sound, which shines light through mineral-based glass color lenses.

Rainbow of benefits
Lynn Younger, who lives in Sedona, Arizona, has worked with dogs and other animals for 10 years using “colorpuncture,” a European modality of acupuncture that substitutes concentrated Lumalight for acupuncture needles. “I’ve treated thousands of canines, most commonly for painful conditions like arthritis or hip dysplasia, infections, and emotional issues,” says Younger. “Usually the animals present with conditions that have been treated by conventional veterinary medicine without success, and the application of color almost always triggers improvement.”

Ojito, a Chow-mix belonging to Eliza-beth Heaney of Tucson, Arizona, pinched a nerve in her back and was in too much pain to eat or drink for three days. “About 15 minutes into her color treatment,” says Heaney, “Ojito abruptly stood up and began to drink from her water dish. By the end of the treatment she was eating hungrily. The change was remarkable, from barely lifting her head to walking around and wagging her tail. She’s been fine ever since.”

A fungal infection called Valley Fever is a serious problem in Arizona, and when it settled in her lungs, Kali, a nine-year-old Wheaten Terrier, coughed as often as 20 times a minute. “She did not respond to prescription drugs,” says her owner, L. Enlow, “but color therapy stopped her coughing, and a chest X-ray taken after a few months of ongoing color treatments showed that the virus was greatly reduced.”

Color therapy doesn’t have to involve elaborate equipment, says Younger. “You can tonate water in colored glass jars or bottles simply by placing them in the sun. For a dog with arthritis, you could keep water in a red glass container and then apply it as a spray or wash. You could also have the dog lie on a red towel. There are many ways to expose dogs to color. In my experience, animals respond much more quickly to color therapy than humans do. They don’t try to figure out whether or how it works. They just enjoy it.”

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Annie, a 16-year-old Bichon Frise belonging to Linda McGuire in Wethersfield, Connecticut, seems to enjoy her Spectro-chrome tonations. “She goes right for the light and lies under it for her snooze,” McGuire says. “The colors help with her kidney disease and other symptoms, and she actually positions herself for best results. Animals are so smart! My vet doesn’t want to know the details, but he says I should keep doing whatever I’m doing because it’s working so well.”

Pamela Fisher, DVM, a holistic veterinarian in North Canton, Ohio, has treated almost a hundred canine patients with Lumalight color during the past year, most of them for skin, digestive, emotional, or respiratory problems.

“When cooling blues are applied to hot spots or other inflamed skin conditions,” she says, “there is an instant calming and skin color change, from red and irritated to more normal, which starts the healing process.”

Color therapy tonations usually last half an hour to an hour, but Dr. Fisher‘s single-color Lumalight treatments seldom take more than a few seconds. “The results are actually that fast,” she says.

One of Dr. Fisher’s patients is Michael, a 16-year-old West Highland White Terrier belonging to Lyn Sabino of Canton, Ohio, who has chronic lung problems. His bronchial dilating medication was recently changed by another veterinarian, and after two doses on the new medicine, he grew weak and struggled for breath.

“His condition was serious,” says Dr. Fisher, “and it was getting worse. I applied cooling blue color to his chest and heart area, and within a few seconds his labored breathing calmed and the color of his mucous membranes improved, becoming more pink due to better oxygenation. He continued to improve, and I sent him home with color-treated water for continued application.”

Dr. Fisher reports that separation anxiety, thunder phobia, fears, incessant barking, inappropriate urination, and other emotional or behavioral issues also respond quickly to color therapy.

BodyTalk and AnimalTalk
Australian chiropractor John Veltheim, an expert in applied kinesiology, acupuncture, Reiki, osteopathy, sports medicine, counseling, and philosophy, combined all of these interests when he developed Body-Talk, a system in which the practitioner uses muscle testing (kinesiology) to ask the client’s body specific questions about what parts need treatment first. This approach, says Dr. Veltheim, is what sets BodyTalk apart from other healing systems and makes every BodyTalk session unique.

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Once the initial organ or body part has been identified, the practitioner asks a series of yes or no questions to discover what that part needs, such as a link to a specific gland or organ. As soon as the link is identified, the practitioner uses gentle hand contact and tapping to correct imbalances and speed healing.

“Lightly tapping on the skull,” says Dr. Veltheim, “seems to activate the brain centers in a way that causes the brain to consciously reevaluate the state of health in the bodymind. Tapping on the heart completes the process by sending patterns of energy and information to every cell in the body.”

Five years ago, Ange Trenga of Missoula, Montana, became a BodyTalk instructor and practitioner for people and animals. AnimalTalk is a version of BodyTalk designed for pets and other animals.

One AnimalTalk client had a six-year-old Golden Retriever with severe skin problems. The dog’s skin was raw all over her body, says Trenga, “especially on her belly and in her ears, and it was made worse by her constant itching, chewing, and licking. She was losing huge chunks of fur. She was also dehydrated because she refused to drink water. The first thing that happened when we started tapping was that she ran into the kitchen and drank several bowls of water.”

Using kinesiology, Trenga determined that the dog was reacting to corn in her food, grass outside, and several cleaning products in the house. She used AnimalTalk to strengthen the dog’s immune system, and when she returned two weeks later, the dog’s fur had grown back, her skin looked normal, her chewing had completely stopped, and the itching had almost disappeared. After their second session, the dog needed no further treatment.

“One of the things that I love about AnimalTalk,” she says, “is that you don’t have to work with the dog every week for a year. In most cases, two to four sessions correct the problem, and the dog’s body holds the memory of these adjustments so that no additional treatment is needed.” Trenga has used AnimalTalk to help dogs recover from accidents and injuries.

AnimalTalk training used to be available only to BodyTalk practitioners, but now pet lovers with no BodyTalk experience can take AnimalTalk workshops that demonstrate basic techniques for dealing with pet health problems, behavioral issues, and emergencies.

“Anyone can learn it, including kids,” says Trenga, who teaches AnimalTalk around the world. “It is a wonderful support therapy that’s compatible with veterinary care, and it can even neutralize old fears and traumas. My favorite example of this is a dog who was terrified of going out of the house because he had been attacked years before by another dog. The sight of his leash made him cower and tremble, and when he went outside to eliminate, he didn’t waste a minute and raced back in. At the end of our single session, he explored his backyard without any fear, and when his owner took him for a walk, he was completely relaxed and confident. It was as though the attack had never happened, and his fear has never returned.”

Emotional Freedom Techniques (EFT)
Gary Craig isn’t a trainer or veterinarian. In fact, he doesn’t even have a dog. But his acupressure tapping procedure called EFT (Emotional Freedom Techniques) has transformed the lives of countless dogs and their human companions.

EFT is one of several meridian therapies, so called because they are said to release blocks along the same energy paths used in acupuncture. According to Craig, the combination of focused thought and acupressure tapping releases energy blocks that contribute to behavioral problems, anxiety, pain, or illness while simultaneously releasing their underlying emotional causes.

Meridian therapies are often complicated, but EFT is so easy to use that small children teach it to one another. “Don’t let its simplicity fool you,” says Craig. “It’s used by thousands of healthcare practitioners, including medical doctors and veterinarians. In many cases, chronic and acute symptoms have resolved in a matter of minutes.”

ZEB Unit to Relieve Her Chronic Pain

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EFT’s tapping points and basic protocol are clearly described in the free EFT manual that is distributed online in 19 languages, and Craig’s inexpensive seminar DVDs provide impressive demonstrations. EFT classes and workshops are taught in several countries, and more than 50 books by a variety of authors describe the technique. These are remarkable statistics for a procedure that is only 10 years old.

Animals can be treated directly, by tapping on their acupuncture meridians while focusing on their condition, or they can be treated surrogately, by proxy. That is, you can tap on yourself while focusing on the dog.

Catherine O’Driscoll, an EFT practitioner in Scotland, did this with her Golden Retriever, Sophie, who had suffered from arthritis for several years.

“We helped her with nutrition, herbs, homeopathy, and acupuncture, but the arthritis never completely went away,” she says. “Finally, when she was 14, her front paws swelled up and knotted so much that they became deformed. I tapped on myself for her, and I couldn’t believe my eyes. The paws went down as though they were balloons letting out air. It was like a horror story special effect in reverse.

“I didn’t trust myself not to have imagined it,” O’Driscoll continues, “but Sophie was good enough to manifest the swollen paws a few weeks later while my sister was visiting. I again tapped for her while my sister and husband looked on. Again, we saw the swelling subside in front of our eyes. Sophie lived to the grand age of 17, and her arthritis never returned. She had also become deaf by age 14, but thanks to this wonderful energy therapy, she was able to hear again for the last years of her life.”

Christina Bequette, an EFT practitioner in Deer Trail, Colorado, first tried the technique with Stella, a 14-year-old Australian Shepherd/Red Heeler mix belonging to Patty Kemp-Cobb in Carbondale, Colorado. Stella constantly whined and pressed her head and body against Kemp-Cobb. “She had a reputation for biting and didn’t like to be touched,” says Bequette, “so I expected resistance, but Stella willingly let me tap on her, as if she knew I was there to help.”

Bequette focused on thoughts of not being loved, having things to say, and being ignored, and whatever else she could think of that might be a factor. “The best result came after I referred to the issue of Stella feeling invisible despite being recognized for her excellence as a cattle dog. The session lasted about 20 minutes, and to everyone’s astonishment, Stella quit whining. Not only that, but from then on she acted much more gentle and loving, no longer snapping or biting when touched. It was quite exciting to her human family, and now, two years later, they still talk about her transformation. Stella is almost 16, and her whining habit never came back.”

In 2002, California artist Lee Lawson was bothered by a neighbor’s dog, who barked all night, every night, for months. “The neighbor claimed not to hear it,” she says, “and so it went on and on and on. Then one night I did EFT on the situation. I focused on being a vibrational match to the barking dog, deeply and completely loving and accepting myself and the dog. The barking stopped immediately. About three hours later it started again and I tapped again. It stopped, and that was the last time the dog barked at night.”

Lawson also used surrogate tapping when she got a new puppy for everything from housebreaking (immediately accomplished) to sleeping through the night (which a single EFT treatment took care of). “I even used EFT to get her to pee on command after she noodled around for 15 minutes in the freezing cold,” says Lawson. “I’d start a single round of tapping for this and she would go before I could finish.”

Dozens of EFT practitioners in the U.S., Canada, Europe, South America, Asia, and Australia responded to my online requests for reports about how EFT has helped their dogs. They described EFT’s success with treating asthma, diabetes, heart disease, arthritis, kennel cough, injuries, and other physical ailments, as well as how rescued dogs adjusted to their new homes; how dogs who began fighting when a beloved family member moved out live in harmony again; how dogs overcame their fear of vacuum cleaners, thunder, and fireworks; how formerly aggressive dogs now stay calm and focused; and how competition dogs overcame physical or training problems to win their events.

Zero Energy Balancing (ZEB)
Three years ago, agility competitor Melissa Chandler of Galena, Ohio, suffered injuries in a car accident that hindered her mobility. She was referred to a massage therapist who used Zero Energy Balancing, or ZEB.

“I was amazed at how much this helped, and I purchased a ZEB unit for myself,” she says. “Then I learned about how the ZEB helps dogs from my holistic veterinarians, as they both use it in their practice.”

The ZEB, a tube of extruded plastic pipe containing diodes, was invented by retired aerospace engineer Cliff Stumbaugh. It comes in several models costing $150 to $450, the most popular of which is the $250 Ultimate Biofield ZEB, which Stumbaugh describes as an all-purpose energy device with a frequency range of 8Hz – 650Hz. “Its usage is ideal for balancing meridians and chakras, breaking up energy blockages, correcting general body dysfunctions, and using biofield resonance therapy,” he says. “It has an automatic mode of operation and comes complete with three auto-program modules.”

There are no moving parts in the ZEB, and it has no power source other than the naturally occurring energy that flows around it. “ZEB has a bioplasma radiation field around it comparable to a magnet,” the inventor explains. “It perpetuates itself by circulating plasma energy around itself from the output back to its input in one continuous process.”

What exactly is zero energy balance? According to Stumbaugh, a healthy human or animal biofield consists of flowing, unpolarized bioplasmic cells. When the biofield is blocked, negative, polarized bioplasmic cells exist. “The ZEB’s energy beam network attracts the negative bioplasmic cells from the subject’s biofield and accelerates these through the ZEB unit via its tuned cavity ring-down processor. Here the negative, polarized bioplasmic cells are depolarized and discharged out of the unit, thus creating a zero balance.” (And this is one of the manual’s simplest explanations!)

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“I use the ZEB on my dogs daily,” says Chandler. “You can use it to prevent injuries from becoming chronic problems, help with autoimmune and endocrine dysfunctions, assist digestion, treat diarrhea or constipation, test foods and supplements, and speed the healing of wounds or surgical incisions. The ZEB can be used to rid the system of pathogens, bacteria, and viruses.”

Programming the ZEB involves sticking a small note on one side of the tube and placing a cotton swab saliva sample from the person or animal being treated on the other. The note can list one or more numbers from the accompanying frequency/vector manual, or you can simply write the desired result in a circle. Then you move the tube over the affected body part for 10 to 15 seconds or, to treat the entire body, leave it next to the resting patient for 10 to 30 minutes.

This procedure is so unusual, it’s downright weird. Can it possibly work?

Betsey Lynch of Delaware, Ohio, believes it does. “I am an avid agility participant,” she says. “I bought my first ZEB in January 2005, prior to which two of my holistic vets used the ZEB on my dogs. I now have four ZEBs and use them all every day on my four Cavaliers and one Papillon to help with muscle repair and recovery from training and competition.”

Lynch’s current agility star is six-year-old Trouble. “Trouble has syringomyelia, or SM, which is a neurological condition that affects Cavaliers and some other toy breeds,” she says. “With daily use of the ZEB, Trouble has been able to run successfully and remain an active and happy little dog. I keep one ZEB dedicated to distance healing of the SM alone and believe it has kept her symptoms from progressing.”

Jan Knode in Apple Creek, Ohio, has been styling dogs since 1989, teaching and training in agility since 2001, and competing since 2002. She uses the ZEB to treat pain and injuries, eradicate skin parasites, and treat yeast infections.

“Last July a holistic vet who does energy work used the ZEB on my seven-year-old Doberman,” says Knode. “My girl was very sick and slept almost all the time. After the vet used the ZEB on her, for about an hour, off and on, Sere played in the van all the way home! Her body began to heal and she felt great. Since then, she has a lot more energy for agility and playing ball and Frisbee. It’s so nice to have my girl back.”

The ZEB is one of several devices that are said to correct physical and emotional conditions by concentrating or redirecting energy. From what we can determine, especially because it does not plug into an electrical outlet, use batteries, or have an external power source, the ZEB is unlikely to cause harm. Like the other energy therapies described here and in the four preceding articles in this “energy medicine” series, it might work or it might do nothing, but either way, it isn’t likely to damage the patient.

CJ Puotinen, a frequent Whole Dog Journal contributor, is the author of The Encyclopedia of Natural Pet Care, which describes several energy healing techniques. She is also an EFT instructor and practitioner.

New and Improved

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Every year in February, we review dry dog foods, and attempt, in the process, to teach owners a little more about pet foods and the pet food industry. Last February, we discussed in detail the phrase “complete and balanced” that adorns the labels of most (not all) dry commercial foods, explaining how products with highly disparate nutrient levels could all be considered “complete and balanced.” We also talked about the different methods by which a company can earn the right to make the “complete and balanced” claim: feeding trials, nutrient levels, or the “family” method.

Nancy Kerns

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This year, with the memory of the 2007 pet food recalls still fresh in our minds, we are emphasizing pet food company transparency and its value to pet owners. In the past, we’ve asked pet food companies to disclose to us, not for publication, where their products were manufactured – mostly as a lever to pry more information out of them about their ingredient sourcing and quality assurance programs. Following the 2007 recalls, and the months of uncertainty about ingredient and product safety, we decided this was not enough.

For this year’s review, we required each company who, in the past, had a product on our “approved dry dog food” list to divulge, for publication, information about their manufacturing sites. As a reward, we gave the participants – the ones that were still talking to us at this point! – the opportunity to make a short statement about their companies and products. You should find the statements very interesting and diverse.

Another big change to our 2008 dry food review: We pulled all the grain-free varieties out of this category. There are enough of them on the market today that we are going to give them their very own review next month. This way, we’ll be able to examine the varied approaches that different companies have taken in order to make a grain-free food. These approaches have led to quite disparate nutrient levels in the product offerings – higher protein and fat, of course, but also some significant differences in the vitamin, mineral, and fatty acid profiles of the finished products.

Our Training Editor, Pat Miller, took the opportunity this month to “bust” some dog behavior myths. I’ve spent quite a bit of time in puppy training classes (mostly with a camera, though, not a puppy!). Trust me when I say that many (most?) owners ask questions in class that clearly reveal that they are laboring under many misconceptions about the dogs with whom they share their homes. Want to raise a positive trainer’s blood pressure? Just start a conversation and drop the following phrases:

“He knows better!”
“He’s jumping up on me because he’s dominant, right?”
“My dog is stubborn!”
“I spanked him to let him know who the alpha dog is in the house.”
“She pees in my bedroom when I’ve stayed out too late; she’s spiteful.”

In case you’re not sure why these would get a trainer worked up, check out “Canine Mythbusting” on page 12.

-Nancy Kerns

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