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Solutions for Reactive Dog Behavior

At some point in our lives, some of us find ourselves living with a difficult dog, one whose behavior challenges our patience, and exhausts our training knowledge – and opens our hearts and eyes to a new, better way of training. This is the story of one such dog and her very knowledgeable dog owner. Together, they reached an entirely new and higher level of dog training skills, thanks to the owner’s life-altering experiences with a reactive dog who wasn’t fit to compete in the career intended for her: Flyball.

Flyball is not the sport for everyone. It is a relay team event, which means you have to commit to training and competing with your dog and other dogs and dog owners as a team, and you have to have an appreciation for over-the-top dogs and the resulting cacophony of sounds.

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In flyball, a team of four dogs race, one after the other, leaping a series of hurdles, throwing their bodies against a spring-loaded box that ejects a tennis ball, snatching the ball, and hurtling their bodies back down the row of jumps to where their next teammates strain to be released for their turns. The fastest team wins.

You hear a typical flyball tournament before you see it. Dogs are barking in excitement and play growling while they play tug between races, and people are screaming encouragement so loudly to their canine teammates that many of them are hoarse the next day. Whistles blast to start races, to alert false starts, and to end races. It can be hard to hear the PA system, which alternately blares announcements and rock and roll music.

Chris Bond loved it all. She and her husband Rich, with three of their Border Collies, were on the Jets, the British flyball team that broke the world record in 1997. They loved it so much that when they moved back to California in 1999, they started their own team, Gold Rush Flyball. They worked with inexperienced pet dogs and owners and trained them to top competition levels. One of their teams achieved a race time of 17.88 seconds – at the time, within one second of the fastest team in their region. What they needed in order to beat the competition was a fast, small dog. Small is important in flyball because the jump height for the team is determined by the shortest dog on the team.

Fate in a small package
In February 2002, Chris was approached by someone from another team who was looking for a home for a small, bright-eyed, five-month-old Border Collie-mix pup that had been found as a stray. That little dog captured Chris and Rich’s hearts and, hoping that she would become the super-fast flyball dog they were looking for, they adopted her on the spot.

Although the little dog showed subtle signs of fearfulness (weight backward on the haunches when she greeted someone, lowered posture, and furtive glances at her surroundings), Chris assumed these were a result of the unfamiliar, noisy environment. They named her “Spryte” because she was as sprightly and cute as a little English pixie.

Other than being a bit nervous and shy, Spryte acted like a “normal” dog for the first two weeks. Then she suddenly began attacking the other household dogs. In one instance, when Misty (a 12-year-old Border Collie) walked by the couch where Spryte and Chris were sitting, Spryte leaped on Misty’s back and began biting her around the neck and shoulders.

Around the same time, Spryte began barking and lunging at unfamiliar dogs and people while out on walks. Her reactivity increased exponentially over the next few weeks. She became reactive to any sudden change in her environment, including loud or unusual noises, and other dogs or people appearing, even at a distance. Often, she would “shut down” for no apparent reason – most likely due to a noise she could hear that her humans could not.

Despite this, Chris’s attachment to Spryte was growing. When Spryte was in what she perceived a “safe” environment, she was very clever, sweet, and personable. Chris had never had a dog like this before. “My husband, Rich, and I were fortunate to have had three beautiful, sociable Border Collies, which we adopted over the years we lived in England. They came to us as puppies from Ghostland Kennels, known for lovely natured dogs. Our dogs were friendly with people, well mannered with other dogs, and full of confidence. They had traveled everywhere with us, and were comfortable in any environment. Nothing fazed them.”

As a result, all of Chris’s experience with training dogs had been with good-natured, resilient dogs; she was now in uncharted territory. She was also coming to the realization that this little dog might not reach the goals Chris longed for. In fact, she might not be a competition dog at all.

By nature, Chris does not give up easily so she decided to start training. But where to start? She had used both lure-and-reward training and traditional, punishment-based methods. Like many people, Chris’s first reaction to any signs of aggression from Spryte was to stop the behavior immediately. When Spryte attacked the other household dogs, Chris would hold her by the scruff and say, “No!” When she lunged and barked at people or dogs while on leash, Chris would jerk the leash and say, “No!” But Spryte’s over-reactivity escalated. When off-leash, she would rush other dogs and people across football-size playing fields. She had to be continuously leashed, and was often left crated in the car to avoid conflicts.

A positive shift
Frustrated and depressed, Chris sought the advice of a friend and professional trainer, Lisa Clifton-Bumpass of Hayward, California. Lisa is a positive trainer and her influence was a turning point in Chris’s relationship with Spryte.

“Lisa changed my understanding of how dogs learn, which probably saved Spryte’s life,” says Chris. “Through Lisa, I learned that fear is an emotion that is highly responsive to classical conditioning. If I punished Spryte in the presence of something she feared, she would begin to fear that thing more. If I rewarded Spryte the in the presence of something she feared before she became reactive, she would begin to associate that thing with good instead of bad, and she would become less fearful. Lisa taught me that punishment was escalating Spryte’s reactivity.”

Lisa recommended Chris avoid all punishment. She gave Chris reading assignments, including Don’t Shoot the Dog by Karen Pryor, and she explained how Spryte’s fears could be reduced through counter-conditioning. She also explained the limits of counter-conditioning, and the amount of time that Chris would need to invest. Months. Years, perhaps. And, although the work would make a profound difference, Spryte would always be what her genetics and prior learning history had made her.

“My heart sank with the realization that I had a true problem dog on my hands, and at the same time rose in the hope that there was something I could do to make things better,” says Chris. “With Lisa’s guidance, I began a positive training regime with Spryte. She earned her meals every day, with food for all her good behaviors.

“For counter-conditioning and desensitization, I took Spryte on leash to a nearby school in the evenings, when only a few children would be playing on the equipment. I stood at the far end of an open field, so far that Spryte was still attentive to me and not paying attention to the children. There, I fed her a continuous stream of food, one morsel at a time. She got all of her favorites: smelly, juicy, cooked steak; cheese; and sausage, chopped into quarter-inch squares. We gradually moved closer to the children, but never so close that she reacted. Before her bag of treats was finished, we would turn and leave. Over time, the distance gradually reduced. Eventually, we were able to play ball at the far end of the field, with her off leash. Things were looking better.”

Clicker training, shaping, and management
Chris also added clicker training to her arsenal of training tools. She played shaping games and practiced behaviors daily. Spryte learned an amazing number of behaviors, including useful skills such as a nose touch and a paw touch to objects. Chris would later use the nose touch to teach her to heel, and the paw touch to teach her agility touch-points.

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Most importantly, Spryte learned that she had control of her environment through behaviors Chris wanted and rewarded, instead of behaviors Chris didn’t want and, therefore, did not allow to be rewarded.

For example, looking calmly at an unfamiliar dog or person was a wanted behavior; lunging at the dog or person was not. So Chris reinforced the wanted behavior by clicking as Spryte first glanced at the dog or person. At the sound of the click, Spryte would instantly turn her head back to Chris for a treat. Spryte soon learned to look at the other dog, then look back. This not only made an enjoyable game out of something that would otherwise be worrying to Spryte, it also taught her a head-turn, which is now one of her signature freestyle (dog dancing) moves.

Because clicker training was fun, it motivated Spryte (and Chris) to learn a variety of exercises. Chris and Spryte trained daily, building foundation skills such as “look at me,” “check the environment, then look back at me,” as well as the basic sit, down, wait, and leave-it behaviors. They participated in several classes, where the training was positive and the environment was calm and spacious. Spryte learned basic obedience, freestyle, tracking, and dock diving.

All the while, Chris worked very hard to manage Spryte’s environment. If they went somewhere, she would check the place before taking Spryte out of the car. If people were there, she would let them know that her dog was reactive, and she was specific about what they should do (avoid eye contact with her, give her space, and not make any sudden movements). Everywhere they went, Spryte was rewarded. And Chris quit activities before her little dog became bored or tired.

It was during this time that Chris accepted that Spryte could not compete in flyball. But she still hoped there was some venue that would allow her to compete with Spryte. She started thinking that perhaps agility would be okay. There, Spryte would have the ring to herself, with just a judge and a few ring stewards. Although there is a lot of activity going on at agility trials, there is only one dog competing at a time, unlike flyball where there can be as many as 16.

Agility class
Chris enrolled in a local class. There were 20 dogs in the class. Fortunately, most were good-natured Shelties. Standing in line with calm dogs her own size, Spryte began to respond positively. Chris asked the people around her to give them space, and she continuously fed Spryte small bits of fresh cooked meat or cheese. She was able to complete the first few training sessions, and things were going well.

Then one evening an Australian Cattle Dog attacked a Border Collie he had been eyeing for several sessions. One of the trainers was badly bitten, and the commotion was too much for Spryte. “Spryte refused food treats and began to bark at the air above her head. She had lost it,” remembered Chris. “The head trainer looked at me and said, ‘Hold her muzzle shut and tell her No!’

“Instead, I knelt down and made eye contact with Spryte. After a moment, her glassy eyes cleared as she recognized me. She came to me quietly and leaned her body into my side. She had learned to trust me. At that moment my heart melted, as a poignant realization hit me to the core: First and foremost, my duty is to protect this little dog. Not just physical protection. Emotional protection as well. I did not return to that training class.”

Some months later, a friend recommended another agility trainer. Kathryn Horn had a long track record in both the sport of agility and positive reinforcement methods. Chris contacted Kathryn and explained her situation. She told her everything she had been working toward over the past nine months and the progress Spryte was making. She asked if she could enroll in her class and use Spryte’s class time to do more counter-conditioning before working on the agility equipment. Chris wanted Spryte to enjoy agility, but knew that years of foundation work lay ahead before they could begin to focus on agility skills.

Kathryn was very understanding, and welcomed Chris into her class. “When I first brought Spryte out of the car, Kathryn automatically knelt down and averted her gaze so she did not make eye contact with Spryte. I was amazed when Spryte trotted up, wiggling with appeasement, and greeted Kathryn without barking. I felt a flood of relief. This was the kind of training instructor Spryte and I needed.”

Kathryn didn’t put any pressure on Chris to teach Spryte agility. Instead, she allowed Chris to teach Spryte that the agility arena was a fun place. The environment Kathryn provided was so supportive, with a small class and plenty of space and one-on-one training, that Spryte’s confidence grew quickly. She was able to practice on agility equipment much earlier than planned.

The agility equipment itself was easy for Spryte. She had some difficulty with the teeter-totter because of the noise; otherwise, she had no fear of the equipment. For touch-points (teaching a dog to stop at the bottom of the dogwalk, A-frame, and teeter), Kathryn taught bow-on-a-mat using clicker training. Spryte loved touch-points so much that she began seeking out the A-frame and dogwalk.

“Because my goal was to build confidence, I rewarded everything Spryte offered, as long as it was not fearful behavior. It worked. Spryte began to show excitement in the car when we neared the agility-training site, and confidence when she was in the training arena. As the months passed, she began to look like a true agility dog.”

Dealing with setbacks
Spryte’s progress was not always unremitting. One night as they were training, a ranch hand started the diesel engine of a Mac truck. The noise was sudden, loud, and startling. Spryte shut down. She became frenetic, looking for a place to hide, body tucked low in an attempt to become invisible. After the truck left, Chris tried to bring her out of it, but Spryte was unable to cope, so Chris took her home.

Dog Agility Sports

Photo copyright Dave Mills.

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The following week when they neared the agility site, Spryte curled herself up in her crate. Fearful, she refused to come out of her crate, so they sat together in the car, watching the other dogs run, and Chris focused once again on counter-conditioning, feeding her bits of meat and cheese just for being there. Spryte took the food timidly at first, and then began to relax a little. But she still would not leave her crate.

“It was very depressing; I was starting all over again,” describes Chris. “My goals of a competition dog were, once again, slipping away. I thought about quitting. I had put so much work in building her confidence, and here we were back to square one. I decided to continue agility for a couple of months and, if she didn’t bounce back, we would leave the sport. After all, we were doing this for fun, and right then, it wasn’t fun for either one of us.”

Over the next few weeks, Spryte gradually became less fearful. Kathryn avoided using the teeter during that time so Spryte wouldn’t have a setback. Once her fears had subsided, her confidence bounced right back to where it had been before the event. Because Chris had worked through the problem, the bond between them seemed to grow. Lisa had given sound training advice that paid off over the months and years: Set short, attainable goals, and look at the behavior modification program from a long-term perspective.

After four years of agility training with Kathryn, Spryte was doing beautifully in practice and Chris was learning how to give verbal and physical cues smoothly to keep her confidence high. But she was so worried that Spryte would rush and bark at the agility judge that she avoided entering a competition. Finally, Kathryn convinced her to enter Spryte in a small competition where Kathryn would be judging some of the classes.

The payoff
On the day of the competition, Kathryn made sure all the judges, ring stewards, and helpers knew that Spryte was fearful and not to approach her. Kathyrn even saved Chris a parking spot in a quiet, shady spot, away from everyone else.

Kathryn was judging the first round. The plan was to walk Spryte into the ring, do a couple of obstacles, then mark (i.e., “Yes!”), and leave the ring to give her loads of treats. Chris’s goal was for both of them to completely forget about the dogs and people around them and play together, just for a moment. Chris describes their breakthrough:

“I walked Spryte in and out of the barn to introduce her to the area before our round, working some freestyle moves and giving her treats. She was tense. Then, when our turn came, we went straight into the ring, treat-less and leash-free. I said, ‘Ready, go over!’ Spryte flew forward, sailed over the jump, right past a helper – without even a glance – and up the dogwalk. We connected at the base of the dogwalk, and then she was off over the next jump, tunnel, and so on. Before I knew it, she’d done the entire course, about 15 obstacles – fast, happy, and absolutely connected with me the whole way. I threw my arms up with a big “Yes!” as she sailed over the last jump. She responded by bouncing on her hind legs. She was still playing. I was absolutely amazed.”

Chris and Spryte had done far more than achieve their goal. They not only made it through the entire course, but won first place in her height group. Spryte was also the third fastest out of 17 dogs in the Novice class. And she achieved a qualifying round toward her first agility title.

Chris and Spryte ran two more perfect courses, winning yet another first place and qualifying for points toward two titles. Most importantly, she was able to play agility happily among unfamiliar people and dogs, in an unfamiliar place. The classical conditioning of the agility obstacles was so strong that it transferred to a new location better than Chris expected.

“Throughout the day, several people commented how well we were doing for our first time. That was pretty cool. Especially given the true ‘obstacles’ we had tackled together. Of course, even if she hadn’t done all that, Spryte is still very special to me. She taught me how to be a better trainer and a better partner in our agility team.”

As Spryte’s confidence in the world has grown, Chris has focused more on agility. Since that inaugural competition, Spryte and Chris have entered five more agility competitions, qualified in 11 runs across four different classes, and earned two titles: Novice Regular and Novice Touch-n-Go. To a spectator, Spryte looks like a “normal” agility dog. She barked at the judge once, and at a cameraman once. But she recovered quickly on both occasions, and finished the course.

Spryte is a work in progress. She has provided Chris with many challenges, setbacks, and disappointments, but also a lot of joy and achievement. “The road to success with Spryte has been long and winding, with lots of dips and rises, but we’re enjoying the journey together,” says Chris.

Because she is so aware of every little thing around her, Spryte has taught Chris to be aware of her, to observe her, and respond to her needs each moment.

“The lessons Spryte has taught me have made me a better trainer,” says Chris. “She has taught me that trust, even in the human-dog relationship, requires patience, consistency, and clear communication beyond verbal language. She has also taught me that communication is two-way: To succeed as a team, I must listen to my dog and understand her emotional needs. In this way, Spryte has provided a service not only for herself, but for all the competition dogs that share my life in future.”

 

Terry Long, CPDT, is a writer, agility instructor, and behavior counselor in Long Beach, CA. Terry lives with four dogs and a cat and is addicted to agility and animal behavior.

Chris Bond lives with her husband and three Border Collies in Dublin, CA. Since her introduction to clicker training, Chris earned a diploma in Advanced Canine Behavioral Sciences with Companion Animal Sciences Institute, and has become a CAP assessor.

Dog Trainers Use of Generalizing a Behavior

“But he does it at home!” Usually uttered in a plaintive wail, this common dog owner complaint is often heard in dog training classes, among other places. When one of my students says this, I reassure them that I believe their dog probably does perform the behavior in question with a high degree of reliability in the comfort of his own home. The fact that he won’t do it in class is usually a generalization issue; the owner has only practiced the behavior with her dog at home. He doesn’t know he’s supposed to do it other places.

According to authors Mary Burch, PhD, and Jon Bailey, PhD, in their excellent book, How Dogs Learn, “Generalization occurs when behaviors are seen in contexts other than those in which they were originally trained.” Simply stated, this means practicing with your dog in different places, at different times of the day, under different conditions, in the presence of different people, dogs, and a variety of other distractions.

People who compete with their dogs in obedience, rally, and other canine sports – at least those who compete successfully – understand how important this is. They call it “proofing” when they help their dog generalize his show ring behaviors to new and distracting environments. They make sure to “proof” their dog for typical show ring distractions such as wild applause, metal chairs clattering to the floor, flash bulbs going off, and a dog owner shouting conflicting cues in a commanding tone in the next ring.

a dog trainer and a dog outside a playground
Sandi Thompson, a positive trainer in Berkeley, California, works with Turtle, her terrier-mix, outside a playground.

You may not need to take it to that extreme, but if you want your dog to perform his behaviors as well in public as he does in the privacy of your own home, you will need to help him learn how to generalize.

Monitor your expectations

If you teach your dog new behaviors such as “sit” only at home in the den on the rug in front of the coffee table, your dog will believe that “Sit!” means “sit in the den on the rug in front of the coffee table.” That’s it. If you never ask him to sit anywhere else, that will be the sum total of his “Sit” association.

It’s not fair, then, for you to get irritated, frustrated, angry, or annoyed and claim he’s “blowing you off” if he fails to sit when you ask him to do it in the waiting room of your vet’s clinic surrounded by a barking Pomeranian, two cats yowling in their carriers, and a parrot squawking loudly on his owner’s shoulder. Even well-trained dogs might have difficulty responding to the cue in that environment! If that seems too obvious, it’s just as unfair to expect him to sit the first time you ask him to sit in your kitchen, or on the sidewalk in front of your own house, regardless of how well he responds to that cue in the den on the rug in front of the coffee table.

A trainer and her dog outside a playground
In a new environment, you may have to initially reintroduce a lure, and increase your rate of reinforcement.

Trainers frequently say, “Dogs don’t generalize well.” What we mean is that dogs don’t generalize “operantly” trained behaviors (you do this, you get a cookie) without some assistance from their humans. The good news is that your dog can become quite proficient at generalization, if you take the time to show him how.

How to generalize

Generalization really is quite simple. To start, make lists of all the variable conditions in which you might ask your dog to respond to your cue for a particular behavior (see “Generalization Variables,” right). Train that behavior to a high degree of reliability – 80 percent or better – in the den on the rug in front of the coffee table. Take “Sit,” for example. When your dog will promptly and consistently sit at least 8 out of 10 times when you ask him to, you’re ready to start generalizing.

Add a variable. Ask a friend to stroll through the den, and cue your dog to sit. (Still on that rug in front of the coffee table!) If he does it, click and treat (if you are not familiar with this phrase, see the Review sidebar, below). If not, prompt the sit with a food lure or a hand motion, to remind him what “Sit!” means. When he does it, click and treat. Repeat this exercise with your strolling partner until your dog responds reliably even with the distraction of a moving person.

Trainer works with her dog at a beach
Turtle ignores the waves and the shore birds, focusing only on Sandi. Hurray! Turtle has generalized “sit” well.

Now add a different variable. Have another volunteer bounce a ball on the den floor, opposite side of the room. Cue the sit, prompt if necessary, click and treat when he does. When he’s reliable with the bouncing ball, try changing the venue – move him several feet off the rug and work up to reliability, then add strolling spouse and bouncing ball.

Okay, there’s a whole world out there and you and your dog haven’t even left the den yet. Your next step is to practice his sits in various rooms of the house, first without, and then with, additional distractions. During this phase, you can also generalize him to your own body positions: sometimes ask for the sit while he’s facing you, sometimes next to you and behind you, and sometimes when you’re sitting, or even lying down.

Taking it on the road

But you’ve only just begun; you’re still in your house! When your dog will sit consistently and reliably anywhere inside, it’s time to go outside. Ready for your walk around the block? Have your dog sit at the door – a “Say please” good manners behavior that is appropriate to practice anywhere, anytime. When the two of you step outside, ask for a sit on the front stoop. Prompt if necessary, click and treat when he responds. Ask for sits several times as you make your way around the block, making sure to prompt him if he needs help, and rewarding him each time he sits.

As your dog becomes more and more responsive to your sit cue in an environment with infinite possibilities for distraction (other dogs, squirrels, cars, bicycles, cats, mail carriers, baby strollers, joggers, etc.), you can gradually start decreasing the rate of reinforcement. Sometimes ask for a sit, praise him when he does it, then ask for another, and click and treat when he responds. By decreasing the rate of reinforcement you make the sit response very durable (resistant to extinction). He’ll learn that if he keeps playing the “sit game,” like a slot machine, it will eventually pay off.

The rest of the world

Your home and your walk around the block are still relatively limited environments. Now you get to generalize your dog’s sit behavior to the rest of the world. Take him with you to the bank and practice sits while you wait in line to make a deposit. Visit your vet’s office and just hang out in the lobby practicing sits. Go to your favorite pet supply store and practice sits in the aisles. Walk past a school playground and reinforce sits in the presence of children running and playing. And oh yes – then you get to do the whole procedure with all the other behaviors your dog is learning. Phew!

The good news is that generalization seems to, well, generalize. The more you do the process, the easier and easier it becomes for your dog to generalize new behaviors. So, while it may take a concerted effort to help him understand that sit means sit everywhere, when he gets that figured out, he’ll generalize each new behavior more quickly.

The other piece of good news is that you don’t have to restrict yourself to one behavior at a time. If you’ve already taught him sit, down, stand, and target on that rug in the den in front of the coffee table, you can go ahead and practice all four behaviors when you take your generalization show on the road. So – get going on your generalization program! You and your dog have a lot of work to do if you want him to be a truly well-trained, well-behaved canine companion, wherever your travels together may take you.

Kennel Cough Treatment and Prevention

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[Updated January 10, 2017]

Kennel cough symptoms (also known as infectious tracheobronchitis) appear extreme, with a dry, hacking cough accompanied by frequent, intense gagging. Despite its appearance, a typical case of kennel cough is not life-threatening, and it tends to run its course in a few days to a week or so. But it is a disease that is frustrating for pets and caretakers alike.

Kennel cough should be expected whenever your dog suddenly develops the characteristic cough 5 to 10 days after exposure to other dogs – especially to dogs from a kennel (especially a shelter) environment. Usually the kennel cough symptoms diminish during the first five days, but the disease may persist for up to 10-20 days. Kennel cough is almost always more annoying (to dog and her caretaker) than it is a serious event.

Anyone who’s heard it will recognize the dry, hacking, something’s-stuck-in-my-throat dog coughing that won’t quit. It’s the signature symptom of canine infectious tracheobronchitis, also known as Bordetellosis, Bordetella, and most commonly as kennel cough. Whatever you call it, tracheobronchitis is one of the world’s most widespread canine diseases.

Like the common cold in humans, tracheobronchitis is highly contagious, rarely fatal, and runs its course in a few days. Fortunately, there are several ways to help make canine patients more comfortable, speed recovery, and prevent future infections.

Tracheobronchitis is called kennel cough because of its association with boarding kennels, animal shelters, veterinary waiting rooms, grooming salons, and other areas where dogs congregate in close quarters. The coughing can strike dogs of any age but is most common in puppies, whose immune systems are still developing, and adult dogs with conditions that impair immune function.

dog kennel

Although often referred to as Bordetella, tracheobronchitis isn’t caused by Bordetella bronchiseptica bacteria alone. Several infectious agents contribute to the condition, primarily parainfluenza. Other viruses that may be involved include canine adenovirus, reovirus, and the canine herpes virus.

When Bordetella and parainfluenza combine to cause tracheobronchitis, kennel cough symptoms appear within a week of exposure (usually after three to four days) and continue for about 10 days. Even after symptoms disappear, the recovering patient remains contagious, shedding Bordetella bacteria for up to 14 weeks.

In mild cases, dogs with kennel cough remain active and alert, with good appetite. In more severe cases, symptoms may progress toward pneumonia and include lethargy, fever, and a loss of appetite.

The main symptom of tracheobronchitis—its cough—has been described as unproductive, throat-clearing, goose-honking, hacking, dry, harsh, gut-wrenching, gagging, wheezing, and croup-like, not to mention annoying to the dogs who can’t stop coughing and the humans they live with. Vigorous exercise triggers it, but even resting dogs may cough every few minutes throughout the day.

The dog’s cough is caused by irritation and damage to the lining of the trachea and upper bronchi. In the trachea, exposed nerve endings are aggravated by the passage of air over damaged tissue as the dog inhales and exhales.

Just as the virus that causes the common cold is carried by water vapor, dust, and air, the bacteria and viruses that cause tracheobronchitis spread in all directions. When inhaled by a susceptible dog, they attach to the lining of upper airway passages whose warm, moist conditions allow them to reproduce and eventually damage the cells they infect.

Learn more about how dogs catch kennel cough by reading, “The Many Causes of Kennel Cough,” (January, 2017) at Whole Dog Journal.

Kennel Cough Risk Factors for Dogs

Some people catch frequent colds and others never get sick. Some dogs are susceptible to tracheobronchitis and others never get it, even after repeated exposure.

According to Wendy C. Brooks, DVM, Educational Director of VeterinaryPartner.com, “The normal respiratory tract has substantial safeguards against invading infectious agents. The most important of these is probably what is called the mucocillary escalator.”

Cilia are tiny hairlike structures that protrude from the cells that line the respiratory tract. They are covered with a protective coat of mucus, and they beat in a coordinated fashion. As viruses, bacteria, and other debris become trapped in the sticky mucus, the cilia move everything up (hence the escalator analogy) toward the throat, where it can be coughed up or swallowed.

Conditions that damage the mucocillary escalator and cause dog coughing include shipping stress, crowding stress, heavy dust exposure, exposure to cigarette smoke, viruses, and poor ventilation. “Without this protective mechanism,” says Dr. Brooks, “invading bacteria, especially Bordetella bronchiseptica, may simply march down the airways unimpeded.”

Poorly ventilated, crowded conditions increase the odds of contracting tracheobronchitis, but dogs can catch the disease almost anywhere. All they need is exposure to a dog who has an active infection or is recovering from one—or to the viruses and bacteria an infected dog left behind.

Kennel Cough Treatment

Most veterinarians treat tracheobronchitis the way physicians treat the common cold. They let it run its course while keeping the patient comfortable. Some veterinarians routinely prescribe antibiotics, which are effective against bacteria, thus addressing part of the infection. But because antibiotics have no effect on viruses, this treatment is not a cure, and most vets save antibiotics for more serious conditions, such as the secondary infections that sometimes develop in dogs with tracheobronchitis.

For partial relief of symptoms and to help the dog feel more comfortable, some owners use cough medicine for dogs. Minor cases are often treated with nonprescription cough remedies such as Robitussin (dextromethorphan). Cough medicine for dogs, like Robotussin, is recommended for chronic, dry, unproductive coughing, and should not be used for moist or productive coughs. Note: Products that contain acetaminophen or caffeine should not be given to dogs.

Prescription cough suppressants and most antibiotics for dogs should be reserved for cases in which a fever develops, symptoms last longer than a few days, or the cough becomes more severe.

Some veterinarians may recommend a cough medicine for dogs, but others contend that cough suppressants further weaken the immune system and should only be given to dogs under severe circumstances.

Your Dog Could Have Pneumonia – or Something Else

Tracheobronchitis usually clears up on its own without complications. If it doesn’t, there may be a secondary bacterial infection (such as pneumonia), or the problem may be due to something entirely else entirely. Dogs cough for many reasons.

For example, dogs can create their own tracheal irritation by pulling on the leash. A body harness with a leash attachment in front of the chest or on the back instead of the collar can prevent this cough-inducing problem.

Dogs with heart disease, including congestive heart failure and heartworm infestations, often cough after exercise or excitement. Heartworm disease is endemic in some parts of the country, and less common in others, but is a possibility in any area where mosquitoes are common. Congestive heart failure, which occurs when the heart’s valves leak, is most common in middle-aged or older dogs, including small breeds.

Dog coughing due to tracheal collapse can be triggered by drinking water.

Diseases of the larynx or esophagus can cause dog coughing after eating. A damaged larynx may not close properly, allowing swallowed food to enter the trachea. Paralysis of the larynx is more common in large breed dogs.

An abnormally dilated esophagus may allow food to pool, then pass back up to the mouth and down into the lungs, causing infection and coughing. Tracheal collapse is most common in middle-aged and older, overweight small-breed dogs.

The cough resulting from canine tracheobronchitis is usually dry. A moist cough sounds that way because of accumulated fluid in the lungs or airways. The fluid can be water, blood, or pus. Hunting dogs and dogs who spend most of their time outdoors may inhale seeds, pollen, grasses, or other foreign matter that travels through the nose to the lung, causing pyothorax, an infection that produces a large amount of pus.

Dogs of any age can develop allergic lung disease from exposure to dust, pollen, or smoke.

While lung cancer is unusual in dogs, it too can cause coughing. Short-nosed breeds exposed to second-hand smoke and any dog exposed to asbestos may be at risk.

Pneumonia and other secondary bacterial infections can develop in pet store puppies with tracheobronchitis and in older dogs with weak immune systems or other illnesses.

Any dog who doesn’t recover quickly from what appears to be canine tracheobronchitis should receive a thorough veterinary exam. To help your veterinarian reach an accurate diagnosis, keep track of your dog’s coughing symptoms, noting on a calendar or notebook the date of each symptom and its description.

It’s Not Dog Flu

Three years ago, canine flu seemed to be an epidemic affecting dogs of every description (see “Fending Off the Flu,” Whole Dog Journal, December 2005).

The dog coughing produced by the canine flu virus is soft and moist, and it’s usually accompanied by a high fever and nasal discharge, none of which are symptoms of tracheobronchitis.

Fortunately, of the strategies that help prevent and treat tracheobronchitis work for canine flu as well as other infectious diseases. The herbs, supplements, and treatments described below can help your dog stay healthy when exposed to many different viruses and bacteria.

Kennel Cough Vaccinations

Most boarding facilities require proof of Bordetella vaccination for dogs who will be visiting. However, because there are many strains of Bordetella, and because no vaccine protects every patient, some immunized dogs contract tracheobronchitis despite being vaccinated. Veterinary recommendations range from vaccinating a dog every four months to not at all.

“There are two kinds of Bordetella vaccine,” says Stacey Hershman, DVM, a holistic veterinarian in Hastings-on-Hudson, New York. “The intranasal vaccine is highly effective and very safe since it is not systemic but goes down the nose into the throat. I do not recommend the injectable vaccine since it can cause negative side effects like lethargy, fever, vomiting, or diarrhea.

“I never vaccinate animals more than once a year for kennel cough, and then only if they are going to a boarding kennel. Kennel cough is not fatal in adult dogs, who usually board, therefore it would be over-vaccinating in my opinion to do it more than once a year. Healthy, strong immune systems are resistant and do not catch it, which is another reason not to vaccinate unless the dog is going to a kennel that requires it.”

No matter what your dog’s vaccination status, a few natural kennel cough preventives can’t hurt, especially whenever your dog is exposed to dogs with active or recent infections.

Honey and Coconut Oil for Kennel Cough Treatment

The single treatment for canine tracheobronchitis that conventional veterinarians, holistic vets, and caregivers of every description agree on is honey. Honey soothes the throat, but it does far more than that.

Honey and Coconut Oil immunity boosters

As noted in “Bee Products Have a Special Meaning for Dogs” (September 2007), all honey has disinfecting properties. One of the most expensive honeys sold in the United States and around the world is manuka honey from New Zealand, where bees harvest nectar from the manuka bush (Leptospermum scoparium). Twenty years of research at the University of Waikato show that manuka honey has impressive antibacterial, antimicrobial, antiviral, antiseptic, anti-inflammatory, and antifungal properties. While all honeys share these properties, they are especially pronounced in manuka honey.

Most dogs enjoy honey’s sweet taste, so it’s easy to feed from a spoon or, if the honey is thick, you can roll it into a treat-sized ball. Honey can be fed by itself, mixed with powdered herbs for additional benefit, or added to herbal teas that double as cough syrups.

There is no specific recommended dose, as both larger and smaller doses are safe and effective, but for most dogs ½ to 1 teaspoon of honey three or four times per day works well.

In recent years, coconut oil has become a popular supplement for people and pets (see “Crazy about Coconut Oil,” October 2005). Because its medium-chain fatty acids kill harmful bacteria, viruses, yeast, fungi, and parasites, its advocates call it an all-purpose infection fighter. As coconut oil expert and book author Bruce Fife, ND, explains, “Taking coconut oil daily is like a daily inoculation. It will help prevent your dog from becoming infected.”

The recommended maintenance dose is 1 teaspoon coconut oil per 10 pounds of body weight per day in divided doses, always starting with smaller amounts and increasing gradually. When your dog has been exposed to tracheobronchitis or any other infection, the dose can be doubled. The only adverse effects of a too-high dose of coconut oil are loose, greasy stools and a temporary feeling of fatigue (thought to result from detoxification). Most dogs adjust easily to a coconut oil regimen, and because they’re usually fond of the taste, coconut oil can be fed from a spoon or added to your dog’s food.

Honey and coconut oil work well together. Combine these two infection fighters for both the treatment and prevention of tracheobronchitis and other contagious diseases.

Herbs for Canine Tracheobronchitis

Most natural foods markets and pet supply stores sell herbal products that help coughing dogs.

Licorice (Glycyrrhiza glabra or G. uralensis) is a favorite of herbalist Juliette de Bairacli Levy. In her book The Complete Herbal Handbook for the Dog and Cat, which describes her “Natural Rearing” approach to pet care, Levy recommends making a strong infusion (steeped tea) by combining 1 tablespoon dried licorice root with 2 cups cold water, bringing it to a boil, removing it from heat, and letting it stand until room temperature. Add 1 teaspoon honey to each tablespoon of licorice tea and give 2 tablespoons to the dog before meals. Small dogs and puppies can take less and large dogs more, but precise measurements aren’t necessary. Refrigerate leftover tea for up to five days.

Levy also recommends as cough remedies teas made of sage leaves (Salvia officinalis), blackberry leaves (Rubus spp.), elder blossom (Sambucus nigra), and thyme (Thymus vulgaris). “Sage is the best,” she writes.

Apitherapy Honey Wild Cherry Bark Syrup from Honey Gardens in Vermont, sold in natural foods markets, contains raw honey, apple cider vinegar, wild cherry bark (Prunus virginiana or P. serotina), elecampane root (Inula helenium), propolis (a bee product), rosehips (Rosa spp.), ginger root (Zingiber officinale), licorice root, slippery elm bark (Ulmus fulva), and the essential oils of lemon, peppermint, and eucalyptus.

All of these ingredients are traditionally used to support upper respiratory health and soothe sore throats. The human adult dose is 1 teaspoon every other hour while symptoms persist. Adjust the dose for your dog’s weight, and to make the product more palatable, try mixing it with honey and/or coconut oil or add it to a small amount of interesting food.

Tossa K, an herbal product from Amber Technology, contains infection-fighting olive leaf (Olea Europaea), mustard seed (Brassica spp.), black seed (Nigella sativa), and pau d’arco (Tabebuia impetiginosa).

Described as an antimicrobial that aids upper respiratory infections, Tossa K is given orally four times per day for up to 10 days. The recommended dose for most dogs, based on weight, is 15 drops at a time. According to the manufacturer, this product is designed to stimulate immunity, rid the lungs of congestion, kill viruses and bacteria, soothe digestion, rid the body of free radicals, and protect pets who are exposed to illness.

Australian herbalist Robert McDowell’s favorite treatment for tracheobronchitis is a blend of rosehips, garlic (Allium sativum), fenugreek (Trigonella fornum), marshmallow, elecampane, coltsfoot (Tussilago farfara), kelp (Laminaria digitata), yarrow (Achillea millefolium), and mullein (Verbascum thapsus), which he makes in a base of apple cider vinegar.

“All this sounds like a lot,” he says, “but the old-fashioned way of treating chest and respiratory infections works well. These herbs provide important minerals and vitamin C, and they act as healing tonics, expectorants, and lymphatic supplements. The result is an herbal mix that gets rid of the cough, and by continuing for several weeks after the cough has gone, it builds up the immunity. I recommend that it be kept on hand and given to the whole kennel at any signs of cough showing up, at which time all dogs should be given a short course. One dog recovered quickly when given this blend after six prescriptions for antibiotics failed.”

Dr. Christina Chambreau is a staunch believer in what she calls “R&R” – a flower essence remedy called Rescue Remedy and reiki, a healing “life force energy” practice. Dr. Chambreau recommends taking just one course in reiki to learn how to perform reiki on your dog on a regular basis. And while Rescue Remedy and flower essences in general won’t cure kennel cough or any other disease, many dog owners report that these plant distillations can center your dog’s emotions and help alleviate distress.

Juliette de Baircli Levy’s famous Natural Rearing (NR) Herbal Compounds tablets contain garlic, rue (Ruta graveolens), sage, thyme, eucalyptus (Eucalyptus globulus), wormwood (Artemisia absinthium), and vegetable charcoal.

Levy recommends giving dogs 3 to 6 tablets daily to help fight and prevent disease. “These tablets maintain health and promote a cure in the sick,” she explains. “Use them daily for prevention, especially before and after your animal is exposed to any public place where other animals have been.”

Holistic health consultant Marina Zacharias recommends Bioprin, a Chinese blend of 21 herbs.

“This formula is the best for any type of viral infection,” she says, “as well as helping the overall immune system, and it acts like a natural anti-inflammatory. Combined with the kennel cough nosode (a homeopathic remedy designed to help increase the body’s defense against the infection), Bioprin usually brings quick relief, often within one to three days.

“Most of the people I work with have multiple-dog households, so we give the remedies to everyone preventatively whenever we know there has been exposure or when one of the household members has contracted the infection. The results are great as no one else in the house gets sick.”

Note: While mullein is not an endangered plant, plenty of popular holistic herbs are. Dr. Chambreau suggests substituting marshmallow root for slippery elm, which is being overharvested because of the popularity of its medicinal bark. As a bonus, marshmallow is the gentler of the two, while still providing soothing relief to inflamed mucous membranes. For throat soothing, Dr. Chambreau suggests aloe vera and raw honey.

Herbal Diffusers and Cleaning the Air

When Faith Thanas, an aromatherapist who lives in Leicester, Massachusetts, adopted a Doberman Pinscher from Louisiana one year after Hurricane Katrina, Sasha arrived in a van carrying 20 rescued dogs. A few days later, she started coughing.

To help soothe Sasha’s throat, Thanas mixed a blend of essential oils to spray in the air around the dog. She started with Ravensare (Cinnamonum camphora), one of the “must have” essential oils listed by Kristen Leigh Bell in her book Holistic Aromatherapy for Animals. As Bell explains, this gentle and tolerable antiviral, antibacterial essential oil supports the immune system and has tonifying effects.

Katrina Rescued Doberman

Thanas then added Eucalyptus radiata, the gentlest of the many eucalyptus varieties available. It is known for its antiviral, anti-inflammatory, and expectorant properties. Bell writes, “Due to its gentleness, it is very appropriate for use in blends for animals for congestion, and it makes an excellent room air cleaner, deodorizer, and flea repellent.”

Eucalyptus globulus, the next ingredient, is the eucalyptus commonly found in chest rubs, cough drops, and cough syrups. It has a fresh antiseptic fragrance and, when inhaled, acts as a decongestant.

Thanas added Spike Lavender (Lavendula latifolia) for its powerful antibacterial properties.

After diluting the essential oils, Thanas used a spray bottle to mist the air around Sasha. “The results were instantaneous,” she recalls. “She stopped coughing, she was able to breathe, and she was so much more comfortable.”

Thanas wasted no time adding Cough Drop! to her AromaDog line of aromatherapy pet products. She describes it as an all-natural cough suppressant that works quickly, helps open breathing passages, acts as an expectorant (antitussive), soothes the chest and respiratory system (balsamic), reduces swelling (antihistamine), helps reduce excess mucus secretion (anticatarrh), and acts as an immune system stimulant.

“The bottle should be shaken well for at least three seconds before use,” she says.” Repeat the application every three hours. In households with other animals, or in boarding kennels, spraying the air, bedding, and other surfaces can help keep the illness from spreading.”

Another way to disperse essential oils into the air is with a diffuser. Aromatherapy supply companies, such as Aromatherapeutix, sell different models. A nebulizing diffuser consists of a nebulizer (glass receptacle) attached to the hose of a small air compressor. Drops of essential oil placed in the nebulizer are atomized into tiny droplets that are sprayed into the air.

Bell notes that disinfecting essential oils dispersed by a nebulizing diffuser effectively clean the air, deodorize the room, and help clear up and prevent contagious illnesses.

A new type of ultrasonic cold mist diffuser runs silently (unlike nebulizing diffusers with their noisy air compressors) and can be set for constant or intermittent dispersal. To use, simply fill the unit with water, add a few drops of essential oil, and turn it on. Buttons on the unit control the frequency and duration of misting. Simpler models, such as the SpaMist diffuser, run constantly. Ultrasonic diffusers have become popular accessories for aromatherapists and those who use essential oils.

Any blend of disinfecting essential oils, such as Ravensare, Eucalyptus radiata, or Spike Lavender, can be dispersed into the air with a diffuser.

Canine nutritional consultant Linda Arndt has a favorite remedy for clearing the air and helping dogs recover from and avoid respiratory infections. The Nzymes product Ox-E-Drops (not to be confused with Oxy Drops, an eye drop from a different manufacturer) contains sodium clorite, which breaks down to form chlorine dioxide, a microbiocide.

To use in a warm steam vaporizer (an inexpensive appliance sold in pharmacies), mix 1 teaspoon Ox-E-Drops Concentrate with one gallon of water. For severe cases, use up to 1 tablespoon. In a small bathroom, other enclosed room, or in a crate covered by a sheet, direct the vapors toward the dog’s head, keeping the vaporizer far enough away so that its hot steam doesn’t pose a safety hazard.

“Allow your pet to breathe the vapors for 15 to 20 minutes each hour for four to five hours,” says Arndt. “Repeat the procedure for two to three days until symptoms improve.”

Thieves Essential Oil is also effective in staving off canine colds. A proprietary blend of therapeutic-grade oils from Young Living, Thieves Oil gets its name from the four grave-robbers of medieval legend who avoided contracting the plague from the cadavers they pilfered by swathing themselves in oils (that turn out to have antimicrobial properties). The oil is a wonderful immune booster; when colds and viruses make their wintertime rounds, give yourself and your dogs foot rubs of Thieves diluted in almond oil to keep everyone sniffle-free.

Water Tonics for Kennel Cough

Ox-E-drops can be added to drinking water as well as sprayed in the air. “Use 1 drop per 20 pounds of body weight, diluted in 1 to 3 teaspoons of water,” says Arndt, “and give this amount three times per day for all types of illness or respiratory problems.”

Faith Thanas at AromaDog created Lickity Spritzer, a blend of colloidal silver and lemon balm (Melissa officinalis) hydrosol, to help keep dogs healthy while traveling as well as at home. Colloidal silver, a suspension of submicroscopic metallic silver particles in a colloidal base, is promoted as an all-purpose disinfectant and infection-fighter.

In her book Hydrosols: The Next Aromatherapy, Suzanne Catty writes that the hydrosol (distilled flower water) of lemon balm makes a good prophylactic in flu and allergy season and has both immune-stimulating and infection-fighting properties.

“Together,” says Thanas, “these two super-power ingredients knock out the potential for infection from bacteria, fungi, and viruses, stimulating the immune system and emotionally calming your pet. Lickity Spritzer purifies your pet’s yucky water bowl so it becomes a clean source of good health. This product is great for dogs or cats and multiple pet households.”

Special Immune Support Supplements for Dogs

According to San Diego veterinarian Stephen R. Blake, DVM, the most important defense against any infection, whether fungal, viral, or bacterial, is the gastrointestinal system.

Dr. Blake’s favorite supplement for immune support is bovine colostrum from New Zealand, where all cattle are pasture-fed and organically raised. Colostrum is the “first milk” a cow produces after giving birth, and it contains all the immune support a calf needs to avoid infection. Cows produce colostrum in greater quantities than their calves can consume, so the excess is collected for supplement use.

“I recommend a dose of 500 mg colostrum per 25 pounds of body weight once or twice a day, depending on the dog’s risk factor,” says Dr. Blake.

Other supplements that support the gastrointestinal tract include probiotics, such as Lactobacillus acidophilus and other “friendly” or “beneficial” bacteria, which help make up the body’s first line of defense against viruses and other pathogens.

Probiotics are especially important for dogs who have been treated with antibiotics, as antibiotics destroy these beneficial microbes. Several probiotic supplements have been developed for dogs and are sold in pet supply stores or veterinary clinics. And don’t neglect vitamin C. Consider giving your dog 500 mg vitamin C three times per day, or half that amount for small dogs, in addition to the animal’s usual supplements for as long as the infection lasts.

The Best Defense

Controlling your dog’s exposure to other animals is one way to help prevent tracheobronchitis, canine flu, and other contagious diseases. Another is to disinfect the air and surfaces around her.

These are common sense precautions. But your dog’s best defense against infection is a strong immune system, which you can boost with nutrition, exercise, and supplements like those mentioned here. And if your dog ever contracts a respiratory infection, you’ll know how to use simple remedies to turn it around in record time.

The best treatment for kennel cough is preventative. Strengthen your dog’s health from the ground up. That means the best quality food possible and clean water, avoiding exposure to toxins, and paying attention to early signals that your dog’s immune system is weakening.

Signs of a weakened immune system start off seeming negligible. “These are little things your vet won’t think are wrong,” Dr. Chambreau says. Goopy eye discharge, waxy ears, a little red line in the gums, minor behavioral problems, and a slight overall odor that necessitates baths every couple of weeks are some examples. Dr. Chambreau recommends keeping a daily journal so you can see patterns in your dog’s well-being emerge over time.


C.J. Puotinen is a frequent Whole Dog Journal contributor and freelance writer living in New York. She is also author of The Encyclopedia of Natural Pet Care and many books on holistic health care and herbal remedies for humans.

Nocturnal Dogs

Some of my friends have been horrified to learn that my husband and I have chosen, so far, to allow our new dog, Otto, to spend his nights outdoors. From some of our friends’ reactions, you’d think we were turning him loose in the Alaskan wilderness each winter, but the fact is, the decision was made in response to Otto’s own wishes -and our own pressing need for sleep! Allow me to explain.

The Nocturnal Dog

As I’ve hinted before, Otto is quite nocturnal. Left to his own devices, he would sleep through most of the day, and do his very best to party all night. To his dismay, he’s alone in the wee hours. This is incredibly boring, but he’s game for the challenge of finding things to do, even with so few activity partners at night!

On the few nights when we did try to have him sleep in the house, he paced, whined, chewed stuff up, and nudged me repeatedly (seemingly right after he had gotten a drink of water, and had water all over his beard, every time) as I slept. When we gave him toys and chew-items, he threw them around, clunking them into the walls and furniture. Then he paced and whined some more.

Also, he barked. Because it’s hot where we live, from May through October, and because we aren’t big on air conditioning, we open the house up at night and position fans to bring in cooler air and drive the hot air out of the house. We have screens on the windows, and security screen doors – which means that Otto can hear and see anything that is going on outside at night, but he can’t go investigate. So he barked with his big, booming bark, perhaps as a guarding behavior, but also in frustration. He wanted out.

It didn’t take us long – just a few nearly sleepless nights – to agree that, yes, Otto can go play outside at night. With all the doors and windows open we can still hear when he barks at something -which, thank goodness, is less and less all the time. Because I’m a mom, and have experience with jumping up out of bed to check on a crying baby (albeit 16 years ago . . . these reflexes don’t ever go away, I think), I’m the one who leaps out of bed and goes to the appropriate door to look out and say, “Hey Otto . . . What are you doing?”

Busy, busy, busy
Mostly, what he’s doing is, you know, keeping busy. He looks for random objects to augment his growing toy collection. He collects shoes, tools, and sticks – and of course, anything that we’ve witlessly left untied down – and this fills an hour or two. Tossing those items in the air and carrying them around the yard takes up most of the night.

He chews some things during his nighttime adventures – weird things. He has chewed the arm of a plastic deck chair and the edge of a wooden bench. He loves chewing sticks and scraps from the lumber pile, but his favorite thing to chew is a foam-filled dog bed – yum! He’s chewed up three beds, which I find odd because he also has several soft stuffed toys, and he hasn’t chewed even a tiny hole in any of them.

Due to all the foam-bed-ripping, he’s now down to a single bed, a mat-like fleecy thing that he likes dragging around from the front yard to the backyard and back to the front. He likes to chew stuff up while lying on the mat, but he doesn’t sleep on it. When he does sleep, he either curls up in the dirt or in his (now) bare-floored plastic crate. Go figure.

One good thing that has resulted from his item-chewing and -relocation habits: our yard and deck are now very neat. No one leaves anything out, because we have all learned that anything that’s left outside will be relocated and might be chewed.

The exception to the tidiness is the potting table by our back door; it’s become heaped with a bunch of stuff we don’t want Otto to chew, hide, or roll through the dirt, including shoes, gardening gloves, a paint brush, a broom, Otto’s leash and car harness, his brush, and the toys we want to preserve (or have taken away at night when his tossing them about wakes us up).

As happy as Otto seems to be as a nocturnal dog, we’re trying to convince him that life on the day shift is more fun. Throughout the day, when I see him snoozing in the shade somewhere, I say, “Hey Otto! Wake up!” and engage him in an impromptu training session or race around the house. We give him Kong toys with wet food frozen inside (“Kongsicles”) and rawhide chews or bones to chew on. I invite him into my office, and send him back outside at random intervals. Brian calls him into the house, into his at-home office.

Managing a Young Dog

We take him along to the post office – a half block away! We also have been making him exercise a lot. I often take him for an early morning walk or bike ride; we have easy access to some terrific trails where I can let him off-leash and run ahead of my mountain bike. When we walk along the river that runs through our town, he wades and swims a little. About once a week I take him to a dog park for a couple hours of off-leash play with other dogs. And we take him for a long walk or off-leash run every evening. Tiring him out is tiring us out!

“I think it would be easier to put him on a plane and send him to Europe for a week,” I once told Brian. “Maybe he’d come back with jet lag, and get onto our schedule.” I haven’t entirely ruled this out! Still, no matter what we do to try to exhaust him during the day, at around 9 p.m., mellow Otto visibly transforms into Super Otto! His ears and tail go up, and he starts running laps around the house, a toy in his mouth and not a care in the world. It would be darling, except . . .

Oh, the barking!
During his first week with us, Otto barked in short bursts practically all night. He barked when leaves fell onto the deck. He barked when trains went by, as they do about five times a night, about four blocks from our home. He barked when police or ambulance sirens were heard in town, and when a loud truck or motorcycle went by. And of course, he barked when he heard human voices, from people walking by or if he heard loud conversation from any of our neighbors’ homes.

But just at night! During the day, he sleeps through all of it!

Because we got him from our local shelter and his past is unknown, we weren’t sure if previously he had been treated as a watch dog, and perhaps encouraged to bark; had been neglected and allowed to bark; or had lived in a home that was much less stimulating, perhaps in a remote area. What was clear was that he had absolutely no idea that barking at night was not welcome. No matter how excitedly he was barking at something, if I called him, he would turn and run toward me happily.

One of the most basic principles of dog training is that you never, ever, punish or scold or treat in any unhappy way a dog who has come when called, no matter what horrid thing the dog had been doing when you called him. I didn’t want to give him any reason to be reluctant to come to me when I called his name.

Because both of us were sleep-deprived and cranky within three days of Otto’s arrival, on the fourth day, we decided to allow him to stay outside at night. And I volunteered to sleep outside, to be able to call him to me as quickly as possible when he barked. The goal was to interrupt the unwanted behavior – keeping him from practicing something we didn’t want him to do – and to give him something else to do, something we’d rather he do, and to reward him for it. I love to camp and sleep outside anyway, and we have a big, private deck on the side of the house where I could sleep unobserved by the neighbors. And I got a bit more sleep than when Otto was pacing in the house.

Every time Otto barked, I’d whistle or call him as softly as I could, and then pat the foam mattress next to me. He’d joyfully romp back to me and dive onto the bed, rolling over for a belly rub. Sometimes I’d get up and give him a rawhide chew, an interactive toy (he enjoys the plush beehive with the bees that can be pulled out of various openings), or a food-stuffed Kong. Other times, I’d praise him and pet him for a minute, then fall back to sleep.

Within just a couple of nights, Otto stopped barking at all but the most alarming things: people walking by the house in the middle of the night, and cats. I have to admit I’m probably okay with a dog who woofs a time or two when a person is slinking around my house at 3 a.m., though of course I don’t want him barking for longer than that. When I woke to Otto’s barking, and I could see or hear a person or people walking by, I’d let him bark a time or two more, and then call him. “Good boy,” I’d say.

Stray cats: Our nemesis
Cats are another matter. There are a lot of feral cats (and a few wild skunks) that prowl around our riverside town. Prior to Otto’s arrival, at least one of the cats had learned how to enter our cat door and eat our cat’s food in our kitchen. (This was actually a factor in my husband’s sudden decision to get a dog.) Now, with Otto on night patrol, at least one of these cats started hanging out on the sidewalk in front our house, just on the other side of our chain-link fence. Wahoo! Or rather, as Otto puts it, “Wah, woo-woo-woo-woo woo!”

This, I don’t want. If he could chase cats away silently, I’d be all for it, but this is pretty unlikely. When I call him away from a cat, he comes to me, but the second I take my attention from him, he’s amped up to go look for the cat again.

Now, I know from reading 11 years’ worth of articles by Whole Dog Journal’s Training Editor, Pat Miller, that one of the major strategies of a positive training program is to manage the dog’s environment to prevent him from being rewarded for behaviors you don’t want him to repeat. Because we have (weather permitting, for now) allowed him to spend the night outside, we’ve eliminated “putting him in the house” as a viable option to prevent his cat-related barking. And we know he’s busy at night, so I’m not eager to try crating him or locking him in my office; I think he’d freak out.

Decorative Hemp Collar

For now, we’ve settled on a compromise: on most nights, we close the gates on the sides of our house, keeping Otto restricted to the backyard. It’s just a matter of time, I expect, before the feral cats figure this out, and start taunting him from the front yard. To try to prevent that, I sometimes leave a side gate open, so Otto can perform random sweeps of the front yard – usually with a bit of barking, of course.

It’s a work in progress; we know we’ll have to adjust things when the weather starts to get cold. I’m still sleep-deprived, but he’s getting better all the time.

Choosing gear
One of the most rewarding things for me in the past few weeks has been compiling some of my favorite bits of dog-care and -training gear. Like many former horse owners, I’ve got an inordinate love for “tack” – leashes that feel just right in the hand, buckles that adjust easily, training equipment that looks good and fits really well, and so on. Finding the right gear to use with Otto has been fun for me.

One of my first challenges was finding just the right collar. I’ve always put leather collars on my dogs, and especially like those made of soft leather in a full-rolled (round) style. However, Otto has an apparent wealth of experience with ducking out of a collar. He needs a “limited slip” or martingale collar, the kind that tightens when his leash is taut, but one that can’t choke him or tighten too much.

I went back through Whole Dog Journal’s collar reviews, including “The Collar of Money” (May 2005) and “Slip-Sliding Away?” (about martingale collars, in October 2000). I remembered that I liked the limited slip collars made by Premier Pet Products, but preferred the soft hemp fabric and wide variety of colors and styles offered by earthdog (the company doesn’t use capital letters in its name). I looked up the company’s website (earthdog.com) and excitedly ordered a red collar with stars.

This collar has been a dream. It has a nice, big ring on it for clipping a leash onto; I hate hunting one-handed for a too-small ring. It fits nicely, hasn’t allowed Otto to slip loose – even when he was trying hard to escape a bath – looks handsome, and washes well.

Very recently, I was admiring a large line of earthdog collars and leashes in my favorite independent pet supply store (Dog Bone Alley) in my old town of Alameda. I decided that because it had been weeks since Otto had tried to slip his collar, I’d buy a regular earthdog collar, in blue, with a matching leash. We’d be the stars of our next training class!

Back home, I switched the tags from the martingale collar to Otto’s new flat collar, and for days, I admired his new look – until one day I decided he again needed a bath, and he deftly slipped his new collar on the way to the hose. Whoops! Now we change collars frequently; I just have to remember which collar he has on before initiating something he’s likely to try to escape.

Nancy Kerns is Editor of Whole Dog Journal. She adopted Otto from a shelter on June 16, 2008.

earthdog is located in Brentwood, TN. See earthdog.com or call (877) 654-5528.

Help for OCD Dogs

You’ve probably heard about people who wash their hands repeatedly until the skin wears off, who pull out their hair until they’re bald, or return home, time after time after time, to make sure the stove is turned off. These are obsessive-compulsive disorders (OCDs).

Sad to say, OCD behaviors aren’t confined to humans; dogs get them, too. Oh, you won’t see your dog worrying about whether the stove was left on, nor will you catch him washing his paws repeatedly in the sink. Dogs have a whole set of potential OCDs all their own, specific to canine behavior. Canine OCDs are just as capable of destroying a dog’s ability to function as human OCDs are capable of affecting human lives.

German Shepherd Dogs are prone to OCD

What is OCD?

MedicineNet.com says this about OCDs:

“OCD is a psychiatric disorder characterized by obsessive thoughts and compulsive actions, such as cleaning, checking, counting, or hoarding. One of the anxiety disorders, OCD is a potentially disabling condition that can persist throughout a person’s life. The individual who suffers from OCD becomes trapped in a pattern of repetitive thoughts and behaviors that are senseless and distressing but extremely difficult to overcome. OCD occurs in a spectrum from mild to severe, but if severe and left untreated, can destroy a person’s capacity to function at work, at school, or even in the home.”

The last thing you want is for your dog to develop an OCD. The more you know about them, the better armed you are to prevent OCDs, and the better able to recognize and take action sooner rather than later – a critically important element of a successful behavior modification program for OCDs.

German Shepherd Dogs are prone to OCD

Are Dogs Really “Obsessive”?

There is some disagreement among animal behavior professionals about applying the term “obsessive” to canine behavior. The “anti-s” declare that the term “obsessive” refers to the dog’s thoughts, and because we can never really know what a dog is thinking, it’s therefore inappropriate to use the term in reference to dog behavior; we should simply call it “Canine Compulsive Disorder.” The word “compulsive” refers to the dog’s actions, which we can clearly see, so it’s okay to use that term in relation to dogs.

Those who favor using the term “obsessive” argue that we know a dog’s brain is similar in many ways to a human’s, albeit with a smaller cortex, and the observed compulsive behavior patterns are so similar to human OCDs that it only makes sense to call it obsessive, even with regard to dogs. A growing number of behavior professionals share this opinion – as do I – and so “Obsessive Compulsive Disorder” is becoming an increasingly used term in dog behavior work.

Noted veterinary behaviorist Dr. Karen Overall suggests that as much as two to three percent of our canine population may be afflicted with OCD. She also identifies it as one of the most difficult canine behavioral disorders to successfully treat, and emphasizes that genetic, environmental, and neurochemical/neurophysiological elements all come into play.

German Shepherd Dogs are prone to OCD

Certain breeds have a clear genetic propensity for specific OCDs. Cavalier King Charles Spaniels are prone to fly-snapping, and shadow-and light-chasing; Doberman Pinschers tend to flank-sucking and self-mutilation from licking; a high percentage of Golden and Labrador Retrievers seem to suffer from pica (eating inappropriate objects); and several of the herding breeds are likely to demonstrate OCD spinning and tail-chasing behaviors (see “OCDs and Breed Predispositions,” below). It’s a good idea to research your own breed thoroughly, so you can be especially watchful for telltale signs of any that may plague your breed.

In addition to the genetic component of OCD behavior, environment plays a significant role. OCDs most often emerge in young dogs, between 6 to 12 months, in dogs who have a genetic predisposition to the behavior, when subjected to environmental stressors that trigger the onset of the behavior. Dogs who may be genetically prone to a behavior may dodge the OCD bullet if they avoid being significantly stressed during this period. Or maybe not.

German Shepherd Dogs are prone to OCD

Early Signs of Canine OCD

The early sign of any OCD is the occasional performance of a behavior out of context. It’s normal for a dog to chase a real fly; it’s not normal for him to start snapping at things in the air that you can’t see. Because well-practiced OCDs are heartbreakingly difficult to modify, it’s critically important to identify and modify OCD behavior in its early stages.

I’ve had two different clients who had dogs with fly-snapping behavior. One was a Bernese Mountain Dog, the other a Cavalier King Charles Spaniel. Both are on the list of breeds at high risk for this behavior. The Berner’s owners, already Peaceable Paws clients, identified the behavior at its onset and we immediately took appropriate steps to modify the behavior. Leo eventually stopped snapping at imaginary flies. The Cav’s owners also identified the behavior at onset and contacted the breeder, who told them, “Oh, some Cavs just do that. His sire and several of his littermates do it, too.”

By the time Widget reached the age of 18 months and his owners sought professional behavior assistance, the condition was severe. When I visited their home I found a dog in misery, unable to be in a lighted room for any length of time without becoming extremely anxious, eventually snapping nonstop at his invisible tormentors. He could escape his mental torture only by running into the darkened dining room and hiding in his crate. This poor dog required extensive treatment with psychotropic drugs as well as a behavior modification program to bring the debilitating behavior under control.

German Shepherd Dogs are prone to OCD

Our own Cardigan Corgi, Lucy, exhibited tail-chasing behavior in the shelter before we adopted her, both in her kennel and during the assessment process. Note that tail-chasing and spinning are seen disproportionately in the herding breeds. Fortunately for us and for her, Lucy was young when we adopted her (six months). Simply removing her from the stressful shelter environment and providing her with large daily doses of physical exercise resolved her behavior.

Ben, a four-month-old Golden Retriever client in Monterey, was also treated successfully, simply by having his owners remove all reinforcement (getting up and leaving the room) the instant the pup started to chase his tail. His spinning behavior ceased within a month. A Standard Poodle client I worked with in Santa Cruz was not so fortunate. At age three, Giselle’s spinning behavior was well-established; her owners couldn’t even walk her on leash because of her nonstop spinning anytime she was in the least bit stimulated. Like the Cavalier, she required extensive pharmaceutical intervention.

German Shepherd Dogs are prone to OCD

The following are the most common OCD behaviors seen in dogs:

Lick granuloma: Also known as Acral Lick Dermatitis or ALD, this disorder presents as repetitive licking of the front or hind legs, ultimately causing a bare spot, then an open sore, sometimes causing systemic infection. In extreme cases, a limb may need to be amputated.

Light-Chasing

(Includes shadow-chasing.) Likely related to predatory behavior, light-chasing is characterized by staring, biting at, chasing, or barking at lights and shadows. This behavior is sometimes triggered by an owner playing with the dog with flashlights or laser lights.

Tail-Chasing/Spinning

Also perhaps a displaced predatory behavior, tail-chasing often starts as an apparently innocuous, “cute” behavior that is reinforced by owner attention. Only when it attains obsessive proportions do many owners realize the harm in reinforcing this behavior.

Flank-Sucking

A self-explanatory term, flank-sucking behavior is likely a displaced nursing behavior. Similarly, some dogs may suck on blankets or soft toys – behaviors that can be equally obsessive, but are less self-destructive.

Fly-Snapping

No, this one doesn’t refer to dogs who chase real flies – that’s a normal behavior; the OCD version of fly-snapping involves snapping at imaginary flies. Dogs who exhibit this behavior may appear anxious, apparently unable to escape their imaginary tormentors.

While some fly-snapping may be seizure-related, a significant percentage of sufferers don’t demonstrate behaviors typical of seizure activity, and those episodes are characterized as true OCD behaviors.

Pica

While many dogs are happy to eat objects that humans consider inappropriate, dogs with pica do so obsessively. Pica induces some dogs to obsessively eat and swallow small objects such as stones, acorns, and twigs, while others ingest large amounts of paper, leather, or other substances. Pica can cause life-threatening bowel obstruction.

It’s important to note that dogs who are prone to one obsessive compulsive behavior can easily adopt another. I firmly prohibited my husband from playing with Lucy with a laser light, or water from the hose, knowing full well she’d delight in these activities. We didn’t need light-chasing on top of tail-chasing! Ben, the tail-chasing Golden pup, had a more serious OCD problem: he was obsessive about eating pebbles, small sticks, and acorns. At the tender age of four months he had already undergone one emergency surgery for intestinal blockage, and had to wear a muzzle when he was outside, on leash or off, to prevent a recurrence.

For this reason, simply suppressing the behavior through punishment is a dangerously inappropriate approach. Not only does the punishment add stress to a behavior already triggered and exacerbated by stress, it heightens the risk of having the dog transfer to a new OCD. Far better to approach an OCD modification program more scientifically.

Modifying OCD Behavior

There are five key components to most successful OCD modification programs:

1. Increase Exercise

A useful part of almost any behavior modification program, exercise relieves stress and tires your dog so he has less energy to practice his OCD behavior. While physical exercise is hugely important, don’t overlook the value of mental exercise for relieving stress and tiring a dog mentally. (See “A Puzzling Activity,” June 2008, and “Mind Games,” October 2004, for more information on how to keep dogs busy.)

2. Reduce Stress

This is an important and obvious step, given that OCDs are triggered and exacerbated by stress. You will need to identify as many stressors as possible in your dog’s life. Have the whole family participate in making a list of all the things you can identify that cause stress for your dog – not just the one(s) that appear to trigger the obsessive behavior.

Then go down the list identifying any you can simply eliminate (i.e., shock collar for that evil underground shock fence) and commit to removing those from his environment. Next, mark those that might be appropriate for counter-conditioning – changing his opinion of them from “Ooh, scary/stressful!” to “Yay! Good thing!” (See “Fear Itself,” April 2007).

Finally, try to manage his environment to at least reduce his exposure to those that can’t be eliminated or modified.

3. Remove Reinforcement

All too often, owners mistakenly think obsessive behaviors are cute or funny. They reinforce the behavior with laughter and attention, and may even trigger the behavior deliberately, unaware of the harm they’re doing. When the behavior becomes so persistent that it’s annoying, the dog may be reinforced with “negative attention” when the owner yells at him to stop doing it.

As in the case of Ben, the Golden pup, removing reinforcement by having all humans leave the room can work well to help extinguish an OCD in its early stages.

4. Reinforce an Incompatible Behavior

This was also an effective part of Ben’s modification program. When the puppy wasn’t chasing his tail, his owners used a high rate of reinforcement for calm behavior, especially for lying quietly on his bed. Also, look for other calm behaviors to reinforce during otherwise potentially stimulating moments, such as sitting quietly at the door for his leash rather than leaping about in excitement over the pending walk.

5. Explore Behavior Modification Drugs if/when Appropriate

With persistent and well-practiced OCDs, referral to a qualified veterinary behaviorist for consideration of pharmaceutical intervention is nearly always imperative. The selection, prescription, and monitoring of the strong, potentially harmful psychotropic drugs used for modification of difficult behaviors requires the education and skill of a licensed veterinary professional.

You can find veterinary behavior professionals at American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior or American College of Veterinary Behaviorists.

If some of this information has alarmed you – good! Obsessive-compulsive disorders are alarming.

If your dog, or a friend’s, is showing early signs of OCD behavior, we want you to take it seriously, and intervene immediately, in order to prevent the behavior from developing into a debilitating disorder. Dogs like Lucy, Ben, and Leo can lead full and happy lives because steps were taken early to prevent their behaviors from becoming extreme.

If your dog already has a severe obsessive compulsive behavior, do something about it now. Dogs like Widget can lead quality lives because their owners care enough to find solutions for difficult behaviors. Make the commitment to find the help you need so you and your dog can have a full and happy life together.

Pat Miller, CPDT, is Whole Dog Journal’s Training Editor. Miller lives in Hagerstown, Maryland, site of her Peaceable Paws training center. Pat is also author of The Power of Positive Dog Training; Positive Perspectives: Love Your Dog, Train Your Dog; Positive Perspectives II: Know Your Dog, Train Your Dog, and the brand-new Play with Your Dog.

More On Meat

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GREEN TRIPE

I felt compelled to send a response to Patricia Coale’s letter (in the August 2008 issue) about the article on green tripe (“How Green Is Your Tripe?” July 2008). I wholeheartedly agree with her that the community in which we live is absolutely unaware of the atrocities committed to factory farm animals. I have actually assisted an animal rights activist to help get Proposition 2, the Prevention of Farm Animal Cruelty Act, on the 2008 California ballot.

I introduce myself in this manner to only illustrate that I too, have quite a bit of knowledge in the treatment of farm animals. I also agree with Patricia that maybe Whole Dog Journal could add a comment about the source of the meat in products they recommend. The source for products such as green tripe is the main reason why these foods have such a positive benefit.

Whole Dog Journal promotes a holistic approach to dog care. I would also assume that the target audience for the newsletter has a very high regard for all animals, not just their dogs; these subscribers are seeking a healthier approach to caring for their canine family members. This is what I’ve found in the short time I’ve been a subscriber.

Additionally, I found that most of the suppliers I contacted from the resources Whole Dog Journal listed in the green tripe article, worked only with suppliers who provided the animals with a free-range environment and organic feed. This was apparent just by scanning the list of suppliers in the resources section. Many companies described themselves as raising pasture-based and/or organically grown cattle.

In talking with the suppliers of green tripe listed in Whole Dog Journal’s article, I learned that they all felt that using meat from a factory farm was not an option, due to the chemical processing/health concerns with these animals. The people from these companies seemed intent on promoting the benefits of using meat from farms where the animals were humanly treated. Please note that I do know there are companies that will jump on the raw food/green tripe bandwagon for the purpose of profit and use unhealthy meat sources that treat animals cruelly. My comments about the “all natural sources” are based on the resources Whole Dog Journal has provided, not companies across the board.

Caroline
via e-mail

GRASS IS GREAT

Thanks so much for your article on grass-fed and pasture-fed beef (“Grass-Fed Is Greener,” September 2008). As you are aware, there are many producers that package and ship beef across the country. We have a small family farm and raise our beef cattle with individual attention and care for local consumption. Most of our cattle are sold as breeding stock to other breeders. However, we also sell grass-fed beef raised right outside our house to individuals for their own and their animals’ consumption.

It would be a valuable service to your readers to provide a list of local grass fed beef producers to enable dog owners to locate a provider in their area. I’m sure there are many people who are interested in local sources of grass-fed beef. We would be happy to help concerned dog owners obtain a natural product for themselves and their pets at a very competitive price. Our website is kcgrassfedbeef.com.

Kaye Fuller, DVM, and Roger Fuller
Owners, KC Grass Fed Beef

Rather than list farms – which might be longer than we could run –we gave the contact information (in the Resources section of the article) for groups that publish lists of grass-fed and/or organic sources for meat, dairy, and poultry products. Thanks for writing! We love hearing from farmers who have dogs and produce grass-fed meats for dogs and dog owners!

GOOD, NOT GREAT

A very rarely write letters to the editor but this one, about your editorial in the September issue (“Guilty Pleasure”), I had to send. I wish that you had chosen to be involved in the development of this show because as a dog owner I am very disappointed in it. The three judges invariably have harsh comments for each contestant and dog and offer no suggestions of how they could have accomplished the task differently.

We need people who understand that dogs are not people, and they need socialization and training. I agree with the judges that positive rewards yield higher gains than negative methods, but they fail each week to impart any suggestions of how things could be done differently. I agree with you that the show is cute, but it provides little value (like all reality shows) in how to accomplish positive training with your dog and have a good, fun, productive, four-legged member of your family and society.

Laura Jenkins
Via e-mail

I, too, wish the show included even just a tiny bit of instruction on positive training and tips on canine body language, especially the signs of canine stress!

I see I am not the only one; CBS’s Greatest American Dog is my guilty pleasure, too! It has been really interesting watching the dogs and handlers, seeing nervous behavior sometimes, wonderful compliance at other times, and seeing where certain dogs excel. The varying styles of the handlers has been very interesting, too. Of course, I have my favorite pairs! When the challenges are given, it is fun to ponder how I might guide my dog in similar circumstances.

Very creative and fun show!

Carolyn & Maggie
Via e-mail

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Building a Healthy Relationship With Your Dog

Like most positive trainers, I constantly remind my students that, whether they are conscious of it or not, they are training their dogs every moment they spend together. Whatever you choose to reinforce — even when you’re not in a formal training session — will affect your dog’s future behavior. The things that your dog does that you frequently reinforce are likely to increase, so it makes sense to reinforce him as frequently as you can for the behaviors that you enjoy.

Here’s an interesting and powerful side-effect of frequent positive reinforcement: This practice can not only influence your dog’s behavior in a way that you like, but also improve your relationship in a sort of positive feedback loop. When a dog (or anyone!) is rewarded, it makes him feel good – about himself and the person giving the reward. And when your dog feels good about you, it tends to make him want to be with you more, and it motivates him try to earn even more reinforcements. Said simply, frequent positive reinforcements strengthen the relationship between you and your dog.

Sarah Richardson

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The Center for the Human-Animal Bond at the Purdue University School of Veterinary Medicine defines the bond that connects us to our beloved canines as “…the dynamic relationship between people and animals in that each influences the psychological and physiological state of the other.” It also says that “People in the presence of animals are often perceived to be more happy and healthy.” But what about the happiness and health of the animals? If we do a good job as caretakers on our side of the dog-human bond, our dogs should be happier and healthier in our presence as well.

This leads us to the underlying foundation of the positive training philosophy (training without force, pain, or fear) where the goal is to create dogs who are joyful and willing partners in our activities. It also underscores the contrast with old-fashioned thinking: “My dog should do what I ask because he ‘loves’ or ‘respects’ me – not because he might get a treat.” Those who espouse this anti-treat position usually train with prong collars, choke chains, and even shock collars. Ultimately their dogs’ performance has nothing to do with love, and everything to do with pain avoidance and fear of unpleasant consequences.

How simple it is to help our dogs be healthier and happier – and well-trained – by remembering to reinforce them frequently during our interactions with them throughout the day, especially when we take advantage of the wide range of reinforcers available to us. The bond isn’t just about food – although food, because it’s a strong, primary reinforcer for most dogs, is certainly a part of it. Other powerful reinforcers include toys, play, attention, touch, and the sound of your voice.

Relationship-building opportunities
Psychologist John Gottman, a marital and relationship researcher based at the University of Washington, has conducted dozens of studies in which the interactions between a couple are recorded and analyzed, in order to try to predict the ultimate success or breakup of the relationship.

Gottman’s researchers closely observe the subjects’ body movements and posture, facial expressions, tone of voice, and content of their speech, and each minute expression is categorized into either a positive, affirming category, or a negative category.

Further, Gottman and his researchers look for and tally what they call “bids” – moments in which one of the partners attempts to seek out attention or affirmation from the other. These bids can be a verbal question, a look, an affectionate touch, or any single expression that says, “I want to feel connected to you,” says Dr. Gottman. A response to a bid can be a turn toward, away, or against the other’s request for emotional connection.

Gottman stores this data, then tracks the couples over time, to see which ones end up separating or divorcing and which ones stay together. He then analyzes all the data, looking for interactions that predict whether or not the couple succeeds in staying together. He now claims that within five minutes of observing a couple interact, he can predict, with 91 percent accuracy, whether the couple will ultimately separate or stay together. What is he looking for? In short, more positive expressions than negative ones, and more positive responses to the partners’ bids for attention than moments in which these bids are ignored.

Interestingly, Gottman found that people who (consciously or unconsciously) ignore their partners’ bids more often than they respond to them are just as unsuccessful in their relationships as people who are negative with their partners. Husbands who eventually were divorced ignored the bids from their wives 82 percent of the time, compared to 19 percent for men in stable marriages. Women who later divorced ignored their husbands’ bids 50 percent of the time, while those who remained married only disregarded 14 percent of their husbands’ bids.

What on earth does this have to do with positive dog training? Studies of this kind have not been conducted with dogs, but based on my own anecdotal experience, I’m certain that similar statistics would emerge from a canine/human relationship study. I’d be willing to bet the farm that the more frequently a person looks at her dog with a happy, playful, or otherwise positive expression; engages her dog in a way the dog clearly enjoys (petting, running, sitting together); and rewards her dog with something the dog likes (food, praise, toys, play, petting), the more likely the dog is to be well-trained, well-behaved, and secure in that person’s home for life.

Dogs are no different from humans; almost everyone responds positively to others who are attentive, interested, and responsive to us. So, to build a strong relationship with your dog, take as many opportunities as you can to respond to your dog’s “bids” for attention, and reward him for responding appropriately to yours.

Building a Healthy Relationship With Your Dog

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These moments don’t have to be big; I’m talking about frequent, small gestures. For example, you can simply say “Good dog!” in a bright, happy tone when you notice your dog looking at you. Toss him a treat when you walk by as he’s lying in the sun. “Catch him in the act” of lying quietly on his bed and rub his chest or tummy, as he prefers. Try to notice when he goes to the door and open it for him right away. Give him something he likes – a toy, a quick play session, a treat – if he comes into the room when you are watching TV and offers a sit and eye contact. The point is to not ignore him during moments of potential interaction; reinforce him, even in a small or momentary way.

Of course, another tenet of positive training is that it’s best to ignore – not reinforce in any way, with any attention whatsoever –those behaviors we would like to extinguish.

So if your dog’s “bid” for attention is jumping up on you, persistently nudging your elbow as you try to work on the computer, or barking at you, the last thing you want to do is reward or reinforce him – even with so-called negative attention, such as yelling at him or smacking him. Ignore him, even if you have to turn away or leave the room to do so. And try to respond positively within a minute or two after he ceases the negative sort of attention-seeking.

Keep a journal
One way to make yourself more aware of the opportunities you have in your daily life to strengthen your relationship with your dog is to keep a journal – even if only for a day. Make a note every time you have a positive interaction with your dog.

If the number of notations for the day is very low – say, less than four or five – it should alert you that you are not being as reinforcing, enjoyable, or significant to your dog as you should be. Try to increase the number . . . try to discover what the highest number of positive interactions you can have in a day!

If you make steady progress in increasing the number of times you have small, reinforcing moments with your dog, you’ll be sure to see his behavior, and your relationship improve.

My husband Paul and I have a pack of dogs – they are impossible to ignore! Seriously, though, we try to make sure that each dog has numerous positive interactions with us throughout the day. Here is a sample journal, so you can see what sort of interactions I’m trying to encourage you to have with your dogs!

6:00 am – The alarm goes off. Time to hop out of bed (or crawl, depending on my mood) to clean stalls and feed horses. As I stumble to the bathroom I pass Dubhy, our Scottish Terrier, lying on his foam pad by our bed. I give him a warm “Good morning Dubhy!” as I stoop to run my hands over his wiry coat, pet his furry face, scratch his ear, and rub his tummy when he rolls belly up for more attention.

6:10 am – I’m sitting on the bed, putting on my socks, and Missy, our Australian Shepherd, wanders over and sits with a beguiling look on her face. “Hi Miss Miss,” I say as I scratch her behind the ear.

6:20 am – Dressed and ready to hit the manure fork, I greet Bonnie (Scottie/Corgi mix) and Lucy (Cardigan Corgi) as I let them out of their crates and we head down the stairs to the landing. There we pause while I trade Bonnie a treat for Paul’s (husband) sock that she nabbed on her way out of the bedroom. “Bonnie, give. Yes!” and treat.

6:20 am – Now we play the “wait!” game on the stair landing while I descend to the bottom of the stairs, occasionally returning to the landing to award treats for good “wait” behavior. (This ritual is to save me from becoming entangled with 16 happy dog legs as we all troop down the stairs.)

Finally I reach the bottom of the staircase and invite them all to come down. Major reinforcement for the “wait” behavior: we’re all headed for the barn!

6:25 am – Similar rituals happen at the back door as Lucy and Missy sit and wait to be let out, and Dubhy and Bonnie sit to be leashed and go out with me.

6:30-8:00 am – Tons of bonding moments, as Paul and I do barn chores. Some of the highlights:

•We kick and throw a ball endlessly for Lucy to chase and fetch.

•Dubhy gets to ride in the empty wheelbarrow (his favorite thing) on return trips from the manure pile.

•Bonnie and Dubhy get treats for waiting quietly while shut in the hay room, hanging out on the hay stack, while we move horses in and out.

•All four dogs park themselves outside a boarder’s stall waiting for us to bring out her food bucket – this horse always leaves a little grain in her bowl and the dog’s delight in cleaning up the bits of molasses-flavored grain when we dump the bucket out on the barn floor.

 

Positive Reinforcement

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•Paul kneels and calls Lucy when he returns from feeding horses across the road. Lucy, delighted to see him, charges up the barn aisle and throws herself into his lap.

•I play the trade game with Bonnie again. This time she gets a chunk of dried beef liver in exchange for the fledgling sparrow she’s retrieved from the indoor arena. The unharmed baby bird is stashed in a box until we’re done with chores, at which time he’ll be released to the care of his anxious parents.

•Paul loads water buckets into the wheelbarrow to dump them in the indoor arena. Lucy follows at his heels, eager to play one of her favorite games – “chase the water” as it flies through the air and splashes on the arena surface.

•Missy runs up to me with a sparkle in her eye, inviting me to take a break from sweeping the barn aisle to play “puppy rush” with her. I’m happy to oblige.

•Finally, done with chores, we troop to the tack room for another “wait at the door ritual” and head for the house. I won’t bore you with a moment-by-moment rendition of the rest of the day, but here are a few more highlights:

•Feeding time is happy time! Lucy gets a treat for “woo-wooing” instead of barking as she waits for her meal. Everyone does a sit/wait for food bowl delivery.

•Lunch time. I eat on the back deck and play with the dogs – tossing a disc toy for Lucy to retrieve while playing a “down/wait” game with Bonnie to prevent her from spoiling Lucy’s fun (otherwise she’ll try to play tug with Lucy’s disc toy). Missy and Dubhy get random treats and massage.

•Private client with a reactive dog. Lucy, Missy, and Bonnie get to take turns playing “neutral” dog for counter-conditioning and desensitization practice. They love this game; they get lots of treats, too. Dubhy doesn’t get to play; he has his own dog-reactive issues!

•Hike the farm – a favorite for all of us. Lucy, Missy, and Bonnie get to run off-leash. Lucy and Missy stay close. Bonnie ranges farther afield but checks in regularly for family recall games. Dubhy, on a 40-foot long line, plays recall games in between checking out gopher holes.

•Evenings in the living room. Bonnie and Dubhy cuddle with me on the sofa while I type on my laptop. Lucy, at my feet or on the sofa, gets counter-conditioning treats when a cat enters the living room, or if a dog barks on television. All four cluster around Paul’s recliner when he opens a box of pretzels; they know pretzel pieces will come flying their way. When the pretzels are gone, Lucy claims her favorite spot and falls asleep cuddled in Paul’s lap on his recliner.

•Go to bed. Bonnie and Lucy fly up the stairs to their crates when they hear this bedtime cue. Dubhy waits on the landing for an extra bedtime cookie, and Missy follows at my heels up the stairs to bed.

I give Lucy bedtime treats in her crate, then trade Bonnie treats for the sock she’s taken to bed in hers. Missy gets a last scratch behind the ear along with her bedtime cookie. Dubhy hops up his bedsteps onto the bedspread, waiting for us to climb in and give him his bedtime massage, curled between us as we watch the Tonight Show.

Because I work from home, I’m fortunate to have endless opportunities throughout the day to do things that will enhance my relationship with my dogs. Even still, I sometimes feel I don’t do enough. I should hike with my dogs every day – and I don’t. I should groom each of them every day – and I don’t. I should do formal training sessions with each of them every day – and I don’t. But I always have dog cookies in my pockets. You never know when a bonding opportunity might present itself!

Pat Miller, CPDT, is Whole Dog Journal’s Training Editor. Miller lives in Hagerstown, Maryland, site of her Peaceable Paws training center. Pat is also author of The Power of Positive Dog Training; Positive Perspectives: Love Your Dog, Train Your Dog; Positive Perspectives II: Know Your Dog, Train Your Dog, and the brand-new Play with Your Dog.

Guilty Pleasure

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What’s your guilty pleasure? Right now, mine is a TV show that I did not have high hopes for: CBS’s Greatest American Dog. It’s a reality show, sort of, in that the contestants on the show are real people who have been taken out of their ordinary lives and sent to live together in a huge house, with cameras recording much of their days and nights. And it’s a sort of American Idol contest, with dogs, where the contestants are challenged with various tasks they must get their dogs to complete, and they win various prizes and privileges. A contest at the end of each show is viewed by a panel of three judges, who vote one dog/human pair to be the winner – and send one team packing. The ultimate winner of the show, at series end, will win $250,000.

I knew this show was coming to television months ago; a casting agency contacted me and asked if I would audition for one of the judges’ spots. I couldn’t say “No, thanks!” fast enough or emphatically enough, for several reasons. The first, quite honestly, is that I think I’m awful in front of a camera. Secondly, my life is complex enough, and my time in short supply; I couldn’t imagine taking on another responsibility.

The third reason? I was scared that the show would be terrible, dogs would be put into stressful situations, and force-based training would be featured.

The show was actually on the air for several weeks before I saw it. My dog-crazy sister Pam was the first to tell me that I had to watch Greatest American Dog. I groaned. “Oh boy,” I said. “Is it awful?”

“No!” she enthused. “The people are really diverse, and it’s interesting to watch how differently they train their dogs and how their dogs respond. And the dogs are adorable!”

I was pleased to discover that I could view all of the first episodes, in their entirety, on the CBS website, and I was hooked from the first episode. My sister’s review was spot-on. The people and dogs are really different. The show features individuals who are young, middle-aged, and older; athletic and phlegmatic; apparently sane and perhaps a bit unbalanced. (All the dogs, of course, are cute!)

Best of all, from my perspective, most of the training we see is positive. Force-based training does not appear to be a violation of the rules (and that’s too bad), but it is criticized by the judges. Even better: it’s shown in a fairly realistic light. It’s apparent that the owners who use the most punitive training have dogs with the most behavior problems, and their relationships are plainly strained. The dogs who get yelled at, or pushed and pulled around, are shown shutting down, tuning out, turning (or running!) away from their owners. Under the challenges and time limits that the show imposes, the pairs with relationship problems just can’t perform as well as the competitors who really keep things fun for their dogs. And some of the least-fun owners are getting voted off the show.

I can’t vouch for the rest of the season, or say I agree with everything that’s allowed on the show. But I’ll admit I have to watch Greatest American Dog on Thursday nights, just to see what’s going to happen next.

Getting to Know Your Dog

It’s going to be really difficult to stay caught up with everything we’ve been going through with our new dog, Otto. Every day brings new surprises and challenges, and these experiences are piling on at a quick clip.

Building a healthcare team
In our first week together, I had to deal with something I hope I don’t need again any time soon: finding a good local veterinarian. In articles like “Coordinating Care” (Whole Dog Journal May 2002), “The Importance of Integration” (October 2004), and “Practice Management” (December 2006), we’ve discussed the importance of finding healthcare professionals that you like and that are capable of meeting your expectations – before you actually need them. I wanted to start on this project right away.

Training Classes for Adolescent Dogs

In a perfect world, all dog owners would have easy, local access to a vet who is a warm-hearted, well-educated dog lover, a brilliant diagnostician (fully equipped with all the latest diagnostic tools) who is open to (if not familiar with) complementary care. However, in the real world, many of us have to use several different practitioners as parts of a “healthcare team” to meet all their needs, as well as their dogs’ needs.

When providing emergency care for Cooper, my father-in-law’s elderly dog, in what turned out to be Cooper’s last days, I had lucked into an appointment with a practitioner who seemed to be a very good diagnostician with a very well-appointed clinic and laboratory. If Otto ever needs diagnostic or emergency care, I’d go straight to that clinic again. Considering the vet’s skills, I’d consider it only a bit of an inconvenience that his clinic is a good 30-minute drive from my home.

I’ve been asking my friends about holistic practitioners; there aren’t any within an hour’s drive. If I need one soon, I may end up hauling Otto down to the Bay Area holistic practitioner I relied on several years ago to provide care for my darling Rupert. It’s a three-hour-drive, but it’s probably what I’d do.

I’d also like to find a veterinarian with a practice close to my home, one who could provide routine, practical care, such as annual health exams and urgent treatments. My first attempt at finding such a practitioner was not terribly successful.

When I adopted Otto, the shelter gave me a coupon that was good for a free health exam at a dozen or more local participating clinics. I wanted to contact one right away to obtain a prescription for a heartworm preventive; mosquitoes and the infamous infection they carry are rampant in our part of Northern California.

I wasn’t wildly impressed with the veterinarian I took Otto to for this purpose. His technicians were personable and friendly to Otto, but the vet himself expended absolutely no effort to establish any sort of rapport with me or my dog. He even seemed mildly annoyed when I asked him to give Otto a few treats (which I handed to him) before he began his exam, to put Otto at ease.

I had already told the vet technician that I was there for the free exam and to get some heartworm preventive, so perhaps that partially excuses the fact that the vet asked me only a few cursory questions about my dog. He then left the room, saying someone would be in to get Otto’s weight (so we could get the right dose of preventive), and I did not see him again! He neither engaged me in discussion about heartworm, fleas, ticks, diet, or behavioral health, nor outlined his suggestions for future healthcare practices or local hazards I should be aware of as a dog owner new to the area. If I was an inexperienced dog owner, I’d have left the clinic completely clueless as to my next healthcare responsibilities for Otto.

Again, this was a free exam, so what could I expect? On the other hand, a really engaged, proactive vet could have sold me some high-quality dog food; made sure I really understood how heartworm infections occur and how and when to administer the preventive; suggested running a blood test (it’s a good idea to have these results, which can provide a baseline or history in case of future health problems); discussed the prevalence of ticks in our area and the dangers of tick-borne diseases (and sold me a tick-control product); detected and discussed Otto’s mildly irritated skin; and so on.

Suffice to say that I’ll keep looking for another candidate to be our local, “family practitioner” vet.

Diet considerations
Like most dog owners, I really appreciate the convenience of dry food for my dog’s daily diet. If it develops that Otto has special health needs, I’ll consider a wet, dehydrated, or raw frozen diet, all of which are more expensive, less convenient, but healthier than kibble, in my opinion. In the meantime, Otto is going to get a high-quality kibble, with lots of treats, as well as occasional doses of wet food (frozen into Kong toys, representing a part of our “stay awake during the day” program; I’ll write more about this later).

Rewards for Training Sessions

This switch might come sooner than I’d like; I’ve noticed that Otto scratches and chews himself regularly. By regularly, I mean that I see him doing it at least once a day – not in a frantic or obsessive way, but daily nonetheless. His skin looks a little red in some places, and his stools often contain a small amount of hair, confirming that he chews on himself daily.

Otto doesn’t have any fleas – I look for them daily – and I haven’t used any sort of flea control product on him. Shortly after we adopted him, I did bathe him with a gentle, natural shampoo, but I think it’s something else that is irritating his skin. Despite being given four different beds in different locations in and around our house, he sleeps during most of the day (more on this in a minute) in his sandbox (which I described in “Dig This! Not That!” last month), and spends a lot of time at night sleeping in the dirt in our front yard. It’s highly possible that there is something in the dirt – or something about dirty skin – that makes him itch. It’s also possible that there is something in his food that is causing his mild skin problems.

I’m keeping a “diet journal,” writing down what I’m feeding Otto in hopes that I might be able to identify any trend that emerges in terms of ingredients or types of food that aggravate his skin issues. I’m also keeping the ingredients panel from these foods stapled in the journal, and noting any sort of extra itching or redness of the skin I observe.

So far, I’ve fed Otto three different varieties of one company’s kibble, without seeing any major differences in his stool, skin, or enthusiasm for the food. However, I’m also feeding him a wide variety of treats. If his skin issue worsens, I may have to simplify his diet so I can zero in on which (if any) of his foods or food ingredients are contributing to the problem. As we’ve described in “Skin Secrets” (November 2005) and “Walking the Allergy Maze” (August 2004), allergy related skin problems can be challenging to solve, but a strict elimination diet (and keeping a food journal) is the best way to identify the offending foods.

Taking treats
In our first week together, I was concerned that I had inadvertently adopted a dog with a trait that makes reward-based training particularly challenging: a low level of interest in food and treats.

Dogs who are greedy eaters present their own challenges, but in general, dogs who are somewhat food-oriented are the easiest to train. Food treats are what trainers call “primary reinforcers” – something that (most) dogs like automatically. Positive trainers use a lot of treats in the early stages of training for a number of reasons. Here are the most important ones:

  • Frequent treat ‘payouts’ classically condition the dog to form a positive association with the person who doles out the treats, thus strengthening the dog/human bond.
  • Dogs pay more attention to people who give them treats; the treats help make the people more significant to the dog than other people.
  • Treats can be used to desensitize the dog to new or scary stimuli.
  • And of course, most critically, well-timed treats can be used to reinforce the behaviors you want your dog to repeat.

A good trainer can accomplish all of these things without the use of food, but primary reinforcers like treats definitely speed things up. In order to accomplish all of the above without treats, a person has to find something else the dog likes as much as food – and that can be difficult and time-consuming to do, particularly with a fearful or undersocialized adult dog.

This all explains why I was worried when, in the first week with Otto, he turned away from chicken, cheese, roast beef, tuna, wet cat food, and half a dozen different types of commercial, meat-based treats (freeze-dried and semi-moist). He would sniff each treat carefully, and about half the time, take it from my fingers very gently, chew it halfheartedly, and politely decline a second serving.

Stress case!
Thank goodness, Otto’s reluctance to take food was short-lived, an apparent artifact of his initial nervousness in his new home. In retrospect, I should have realized that it was a sign of anxiety. After all, I’ve witnessed many training sessions and classes with dogs who are so overstimulated and excited that they wouldn’t take even high-value treats from their handlers.

What fooled me into thinking that this wasn’t the case with Otto was the fact that he refused treats not only in highly stimulating environments (such as out on a walk), but also in the quiet of my kitchen or backyard. Plus, he didn’t display the classic signs of stress that I’ve learned to spot, such as licking his nose, flattening his ears, tucking his tail, yawning, and so on.

Otto is Gaining Confidence

I signed us up for a class with Sarah Richardson, a positive trainer in Chico, California (and frequent model for Whole Dog Journals’s articles), whose training center is about 20 minutes from my home. I consulted with Sarah before our first class, bemoaning Otto’s delicate appetite for treats. She gave me a few more ideas about treats to try, including string cheese and hot dogs . . . and suggested that Otto was still a bit stressed by his new environment.

Like every owner (or any parent whose child’s teacher made what seemed to be a mildly critical assessment of that child!) I demurred, convinced by Otto’s displays of affection toward me as evidence that he was quite comfortable. I did go to the store to buy hot dogs and string cheese, though. Voila! Hot dogs were the first food item that Otto took readily and enthusiastically, and they seemed to inspire him to give more consideration to other treats, too.

Looking back, though, I realize that my experienced trainer friend was right, of course: Otto was stressed. The signs he displayed, though, were far more subtle than the ones I was familiar with and looking for. Re-reading Pat Miller’s excellent article, “Stress Signals,” in the June 2006 issue, I realized that Otto had been displaying some of the items from Pat’s list of signs of canine anxiety.

In the article, Pat explained that dogs normally display appeasement and/or deference signals as everyday communication tools for keeping peace in social hierarchies. But when these signals are offered in conjunction with other stress-related behaviors, she wrote, they can be an indicator of stress as well. Otto, I now realize, was displaying slow movement; frequent sitting, lying down, or exposing his underside; and avoidance, in which the dog turns away and evades a handler’s touch and treats.

I could see that Otto was nervous when he turned away from or ducked away from a stranger’s touch. But I had been regarding Otto’s freely offered sits and downs as good manners; I hadn’t considered that they could also be signs of social anxiety. And I thought it was smart that he would proceed slowly when he was unsure of what to do. As the adolescent dog grows increasingly comfortable in our home, and gains socialization and experience in the world, I see these signals less and less.

Getting better all the time
As I write this, about seven weeks since we adopted Otto, he now will take just about every treat we give him, although he is more enthusiastic about some than others; hot dogs are still on the top of his list of favorites. When we go out for a walk, a training practice session, or to a class with Sarah, I load a “bait bag” with about five different treats, ranging from kibble to hot dogs. This gives me the ability to vary my reinforcements, saving the best treats for the most difficult or challenging behaviors I ask Otto to display.

Otto will still duck if someone reaches for him quickly, and he’s even growled a couple of times when he was startled by a stranger’s enthusiastic or physical greeting. It’s made me more aware of how unpredictable people can be around dogs, and how alert and proactive a handler has to be with a “soft” or nervous dog.

I try to hand treats to anyone who evinces the slightest bit of interest in my new dog, and ask them if they would give the treats to him. I briefly explain that the dog came from the shelter, is a little bit fearful, and we’re trying to get him past that. Generally, this elicits a bit of sympathy from people and they readily give Otto a treat or two, as well as a kind word.

As a result of consistently receiving treats from just about anyone who focuses on him or talks to him, Otto’s confidence in public and with strangers has really blossomed. My guess is that by the time I write the next installment of this column, he’ll be even more secure in his knowledge that the world is a reasonably safe place, and that he can relax and be friendly toward most people.

Nancy Kerns is Editor of Whole Dog Journal. She adopted Otto from a shelter on June 16, 2008.

Pasture-Fed Animals Provide Healthier Meat and Dairy Products for Your Dog

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For years its advocates have claimed that pasture feeding – letting farm animals live and graze on grass – results in meat, poultry, eggs, and dairy products that are more nutritious than the same foods from grain-fed animals, especially those raised in confinement. Now the demand for “pasture-fed” or “grass-fed” meat is so high that last November, the U.S. Department of Agriculture implemented regulations for labels using those terms.

However, the new standard was immediately criticized for being inadequate by the American Grassfed Association and other organizations.

Peaceful Pastures Farm in Hickman

Photo by and courtesy of Peaceful Pastures.

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With confusion at an all-time high, how can consumers make the best ingredient choices for themselves and their pets?

The controversy
Until the USDA announced its new guidelines, the use of the words “grass fed” or “pasture fed” on labels was unregulated. The USDA now allows meat to be labeled “grass fed” only if it comes from animals that ate nothing but grass after being weaned. Growers must have their farms and records inspected before they can use a “USDA Process Verified” seal. Meat can be labeled as grass fed without the seal if growers submit documents showing that their animals were raised according to the standard.

The American Grassfed Association welcomed the requirement that animals be fed all grass and no grain; early versions of the USDA regulations would have allowed meat to be labeled “grass fed” or “pasture fed” even if animals were fattened on grain in their final weeks. But the association objected to other, watered-down parts of the new regulations. It was unhappy that the USDA did not require grass-fed animals to live on pasture year-round (animals can be confined on factory farms, with little freedom of movement), and it allowed the use of antibiotics and hormones.

In cooperation with Food Alliance, a national nonprofit certification organization, the American Grassfed Association developed its own certification program in which animals are required to be on pasture or rangeland all year long and be free of antibiotics or hormones.

Checking a meat’s certification is one way to discover how it was produced, but not all small farms and ranches have the time and resources to invest in certification programs. Growers in your area may raise superior quality animals on pasture. In fact, their farming methods may exceed the requirements of any “organic,” “pasture fed,” or “grass fed” certification. In most cases, it’s easy to find out what you need to know.

It’s only natural
Until the1960s, when large factory farms began to replace family farms and ranches, nearly all of America’s farm animals were raised on pasture. Calves were weaned on grass and grew to maturity on pasture and hay, reaching market weight at two to three years of age. Their meat was chilled for two weeks to enhance flavor and tenderness in a traditional process called dry aging.

This meat was free from the antibiotics, added hormones, feed additives, flavor enhancers, preservative gases, and salt-water treatments common today. Mad cow disease and the dangerous O157:H7 strain of E. coli bacteria that has caused recent beef and produce recalls did not exist.

Grass is the ideal diet for all ruminants – vegetarian animals with multiple stomachs who chew their cud (which consists of regurgitated semi-digested grass and other plant material). Cows, goats, sheep, bison, deer, elk, camels, llamas, and giraffes are ruminants. Chickens, turkeys, geese, and other domesticated birds also thrive on pasture because of the insects they consume in addition to their daily grain. All pasture-raised animals are “free range” by definition: they enjoy fresh air, exposure to sunlight, and unrestricted physical exercise.

Pasture-raised foods are usually lower in calories and fat, higher in vitamins, and have a more healthful balance of omega-3 and omega-6 fats than conventionally raised foods. An Argentine study published in the journal Meat Science in 2005 determined that grass-fed meat is higher in vitamin C, vitamin E, and beta carotene than grain-fed meat.

 Tennessee

Photo by and courtesy of Chileno Valley Ranch.

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Scientists working with the USDA found that lamb raised on pasture and grass contained about 14 percent less fat and 8 percent more protein than grain-fed lamb.

Pasture-fed chickens, ducks, geese, and turkeys have significantly less fat than factory-farmed poultry, their bones are stronger than those of birds raised in confinement, and their meat is more nutritious.

Eggs from pastured chickens, ducks, geese, and other fowl have darker yolks, harder shells, and more nutrients than eggs from factory farms. Last year, Mother Earth News sponsored a test of eggs from 14 flocks around the country in which hens range freely on pasture or are housed in moveable pens that are rotated frequently to maximize access to fresh pasture and protect the birds from predators.

“We had six eggs from each of the 14 pastured flocks tested by an accredited laboratory in Portland, Oregon,” the magazine’s October 2007 issue reported. “Compared to official nutrient data for commercial eggs published by the USDA, eggs from hens raised on pasture contain up to one-third less cholesterol, one-fourth less saturated fat, two-thirds more vitamin A, two times more omega-3 fatty acids, three times more vitamin E, and seven times more beta carotene.”

Milk from pasture-fed dairy cows and meat from pasture-fed cattle have two to five times more conjugated linoleic acid (CLA), a beneficial fatty acid, than milk and meat from grain-fed cattle. The butter from grass-fed cows is darker in color, richer in flavor, protects against nutritional deficiencies, and speeds recovery from illness and injury.

Some of the world’s most interesting nutritional research was conducted in the 1930s and ’40s by Dr. Weston Price, a dentist who traveled the world in order to study the teeth and health of indigenous people. Dr. Price discovered what he called “a new vitamin-like activator” that played an important role in the utilization of minerals, growth and development, reproduction, and efficient brain function, while protecting against heart disease and tooth decay.

This compound, which he called Activator X, occurred in the butterfat, organs, and fat of animals who consumed rapidly growing green grass in spring or early summer. He found the same substance in certain sea foods, such as fish eggs.

In recent years, nutrition researchers have deduced that Dr. Price’s Activator X is part of the vitamin K complex, specifically vitamin K2. Unlike vitamin K1, which affects blood clotting, vitamin K2 works synergistically with vitamins A and D to activate proteins and nourish the cells. The Weston A. Price Foundation, which promotes traditional farming methods and food preparation, considers “Activator X” butter an important health tonic.

Dairy products are controversial foods for dogs, but Juliette de Bairacli Levy and those who follow her Natural Rearing philosophy (see “Grandmother Nature,” Whole Dog Journal, July 2006) value raw milk, butter, cottage cheese, yogurt, kefir, and other dairy products for puppies and dogs of all ages.

Only a few states, such as California and Pennsylvania, permit the retail sale of raw (unpasteurized) milk for human consumption, while several others permit the sale of raw milk at the farm but not in stores. In recent years, “cow share” programs have made it possible for consumers to legally obtain raw milk in states that otherwise prohibit its sale. They do so by buying shares in a cow and the milk it produces. Thanks to artisan cheesemakers, pasture-fed raw goat, sheep, or cow’s milk cheeses are widely sold, and in some areas, probiotic-rich whey is available along with lactofermented dairy products like kefir and yogurt.

Good for dogs
Dog lovers who have access to pasture-fed ingredients may not have double-blind placebo-controlled clinical trials to refer to, but the anecdotal evidence is persuasive. Caregivers report that most dogs prefer pasture-fed ingredients when given a choice and that dogs on a home-prepared diet who are switched from factory-farmed to pasture-raised ingredients experience improvements in skin, coat, muscle tone, stamina, and overall health.

Chileno Valley Natural Beef

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“This isn’t surprising,” says Todd Eldred, who with his 3C Beef partner, Doreen Eldred, raises 25 to 30 mixed-breed Red Angus per year in Chester, New York. “There’s a big difference in the health of factory-farmed cattle and that of cattle raised on pasture. Dogs and people who eat naturally raised meat are getting better nutrition.”

In Hickman, Tennessee, Jenny Drake and her husband, Darrin, have been raising beef cattle, hogs, lambs, sheep, goats, chickens, ducks, and geese for 15 years. “We grow Angus cattle, Tamworth hogs, and Lincoln Longwool sheep,” she says, “and all of our animals are raised on pasture.”

Their chocolate Lab-mix, Golden Retriever-mix, two hounds, and six Great Pyrenees range in age from one to 11. “They all eat raw and pasture-fed,” says Drake. “The vets always comment on their excellent overall health and great teeth. They eat and enjoy lots of pork – in fact, it’s their favorite. They don’t like poultry except for chicken feet.”

Drake is puzzled by the resistance of some dog owners to feeding pork. “Wild pig is a favorite food of dogs everywhere,” she says, “and it’s very good for them. The hide can be left on some cuts of pork, which the pups here just adore. Trichinosis, the parasitic disease caused by the roundworm Trichinella spiralis, is still associated with undercooked pork but it is all but unheard-of in the U.S. today. Even if it were in the pork, it is killed by five days of freezing, and all of our meats are sold frozen. In 2006, the Centers for Disease Control reported something like 38 cases of trichinosis, all of which came from wild game and none from farmed pork. Contrast this with 23,000 reported cases of salmonella. Pork is a really safe raw food to give to dogs.”

Several of the experts we interviewed for our “Green Tripe for Dogs” article (Whole Dog Journal July 2008) remarked on the differences between the stomachs of pasture-fed and factory-farmed cattle. Janet Klapac, a supplier of green tripe in Northeastern Ohio, told us that she avoids tripe from corn-fed cattle because it contain so much hair. “The cattle swallow hair when they incessantly groom themselves,” she says. “That’s not a behavior you see in pasture-fed cattle, and I think it reflects nutritional deficiencies as well as stress. The pasture-fed tripe is of much higher quality.”

Buying in bulk
Some buyers save by purchasing a side of beef (one-half of a steer) or an entire steer at a time.

“That’s expensive,” says Doreen Eldred, “but the per-pound cost is much lower than retail, and the butcher who prepares your order will cut the meat according to your instructions. One of our customers who orders a side of beef at a time has us deliver the prime cuts like tenderloin and sirloin steaks refrigerated rather than frozen, and she has the rest frozen in 1 to 1½ pound packages for her dog. None of the bones go to waste. They’re either attached to pieces of meat or packaged separately. The meat and trimmings that are usually turned into hamburger can be ground, cubed, or cut into large chunks for the dog.”

Depending on processing plants and local regulations, the liver, kidneys, heart, spleen, pancreas, and tongue may be available. Farms that do their own slaughtering may be able to provide dog owners with green tripe, lungs, and other organs.

The price of large beef orders varies according to the size of the steer and its fat content. Pasture-fed beef is usually leaner than grain-fed beef and thus has a lower percentage of waste. Beef also loses weight as it ages. A lean 300-pound side of beef will typically result in 225 to 250 pounds of meat and bones, while a very fat side of beef may produce only 165 to 180 pounds of usable meat and bones.

The “per pound” price of what you actually receive will be higher than the beef’s hanging weight price. For example, a 350-pound side of pasture-fed beef costing $3.10 per pound ($1,085 total based on hanging weight) might produce 270 pounds of meat and bones, which would bring the finished per-pound price to $4. Add shipping, delivery, or transportation costs and the total might be $5 per pound or more.

Those who don’t have a large freezer or can’t afford a side of beef at a time often share orders with friends, dog club members, or fellow students in obedience class. Some trainers, groomers, breeders, and holistic veterinarians bring like-minded customers together to share the cost or take turns picking orders up. Occasionally a rancher will cull an older steer, ram, or other animal whose meat is not suitable for sale to humans but which dogs thoroughly enjoy, and sell it at a discount. Other favorite dog treats include chicken feet, which are rich in collagen, as well as chicken or turkey livers, hearts, and gizzards.

Some farms and ranches deliver to restaurants, markets, and private homes. Others use FedEx, UPS, or other delivery services. “We ship nationwide and have customers all over the country,” says Drake, “but now that shipping prices have skyrocketed due to high fuel costs, our long-distance sales are down. I do truck deliveries three times a year to Georgia and Florida, and those cost-saving trips are popular with raw feeders.”

Most local farmers’ markets and Community Supported Agriculture (CSA) programs offer meat, bones, poultry, eggs, or cheese from pasture-fed sources. In CSA programs, customers pay farmers at the beginning of the year for a share of the farm’s output. Like farmers’ markets and CSA programs, food co-ops and buying clubs help make pasture-raised meat, poultry, eggs, and dairy products more affordable.

For websites and organizations that will help you locate pasture-fed ingredients for your dog, see “Resources Mentioned in This Article” in the box above.

America’s feedlots
For years, the beef from supermarkets and discount stores has cost considerably less than pasture-fed beef, but the reasons for the price differences aren’t pretty.

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According to Jo Robinson, author of the book Pasture Perfect and a leading expert on the benefits of grass feeding, nearly all of the beef and other meats sold in America’s supermarkets comes from animals raised in feedlots or in large facilities called CAFOs or “Confined Animal Feeding Operations.”

Because it’s expensive to raise cattle, the beef industry does whatever it can to make animals grow in record time. Instead of the three years that it takes grass-fed cattle to reach maturity, factory-farmed cattle reach slaughter weight in just one or two years. The process reduces the meat’s nutritional value, stresses the animals, increases the risk of bacterial contamination, pollutes the environment, and exposes consumers to a long list of unwanted chemicals. Factory-farmed beef contains traces of hormones and antibiotics, and its freshness when packaged is often chemically enhanced.

To improve the efficiency of factory farms, cows are treated with synthetic hormones that regulate the timing of conception so that all of the calves can be born within a few days of each other. On many ranches, herd bulls have been replaced by artificial insemination, and now that the U.S. Food and Drug Administration has granted preliminary approval for cloning, declaring that cloned meat is indistinguishable from normal meat and safe for human consumption, industry insiders predict that within the next five to ten years, mass-produced calves will be carbon copies of each other.

After calves are born, they spend several months grazing on grass, which is how calves have been raised for millennia. But when they reach 500 to 700 pounds in weight, they are loaded onto trucks and shipped to auction barns. Their new owners truck them to distant feedlots, a journey that takes up to a week, after which the stressed, thirsty, hungry calves are dehorned, castrated, branded, tagged, dewormed, and vaccinated.

Regardless of whether they show signs of illness, the calves are often fed tetracycline, an antibiotic used to treat humans. Then they are implanted with pellets that contain growth-promoting steroid hormones, a procedure that is repeated as needed in order to add over a hundred pounds of lean meat per calf. “Every dollar invested in implants,” says Robinson, “returns $5 to $10 in added gain for each animal in the 6 to 12 months they spend in the feedlot.”

Many consumer advocates and researchers have called for a ban on growth-promoting implants because even trace amounts can promote tumor growth. The European Union has banned the use of implants and importation of U.S. beef from hormone-treated cattle. Meanwhile, the FDA insists that beef from implanted cattle poses no threat to human health.

The standard fare in feedlots is a high-grain diet, usually corn, which causes calves to reach maturity months ahead of grass-raised calves. “But unnatural high-grain diets have a major drawback,” says Robinson. “They make cattle sick. To prevent or reduce the symptoms caused by grain-feeding, they are given a steady dose of antibiotics in their feed, adding yet another drug to the mix.”

To lower production costs, cattle are often fed “byproduct feedstuffs,” which can be anything from beet pulp and carrot tops to far less nutritious ingredients such as stale bread, candy, garbage collected from municipal landfills, chicken feathers, chicken manure, plastic, salvaged pet food, and “spent hen meal,” or ground-up laying hens. A 1996 study published in the Journal of Animal Science concluded that stale chewing gum, still in its aluminum wrappers, “can safely replace at least 30 percent of growing or finishing diets without impairing feedlot performance or carcass quality.”

Until 1997, many of the cattle in U.S. and European feed lots were fed blood, meat, and bone meal from other cattle. Feeding these ingredients to vegetarian animals was completely unnatural, and it also transmitted bovine spongiform encephalopathy, or BSE, more commonly known as mad cow disease.

“Mad cow disease helped pull in the reins of an industry that was getting out of control,” says Robinson. FDA regulations passed in 1997 and 2004 reduced the risk of mad cow disease by prohibiting the feeding of mammalian blood and cattle parts to cattle, but America’s feed lots remain a breeding ground for harmful bacteria like the O157:H7 strain of E. coli.

Feeding grain to ruminants, whose digestive tracts are designed for grass and other foliage, causes excess stomach acid. Cattle with acute acidosis can develop growths and abscesses on their livers, stop eating, sicken, and even die.

“Even when they’re fed antibiotics,” says Robinson, “many calves develop ‘subacute acidosis,’ an aggressive form of acid indigestion. A calf with subacute acidosis will hang its head, drool, kick at its belly, and eat dirt. Alarmingly, this is regarded as ‘natural’ in feedlots. According to an article in the trade magazine Feedlot, ‘Every animal in the feedlot will experience subacute acidosis at least once during the feeding period…. This is an important natural function in adapting to high-grain finishing rations.’ When calves are finished on high-grain diets, a certain amount of suffering is simply taken for granted.”

In contrast, humane treatment from birth to death matters to ranchers and farmers who know their animals as individuals. “I confess that we do give a tiny amount of grain to our steers,” says Doreen Eldred. “It’s a training treat reward for coming when we call them.”

Environment, economy, and regulation
Feedlot cattle produce waste that contaminates the environment and adjacent crops. Wherever they occur, E. coli outbreaks are often traced to the manure of feedlot cattle, which can be spread by irrigation, rain, farm equipment, and processing plants.

Soul Food Farm

Photo of Wholistic Paws client

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In contrast, the manure of well-managed pastured cattle – which do not carry the dangerous strain of E. coli – goes back into the earth. Because their forage is naturally fertilized, grass-fed cattle don’t have to ingest the residues of pesticides or chemical fertilizers.

Feedlot cattle consume about 8 pounds of grain in order to yield a single pound of meat. With corn in short supply because of recent floods that damaged Midwest crops and the loss of corn to biodiesel production, grain prices are rising.

As a result, factory farms are seeking less expensive feed for their cattle, further compromising the animals’ health and nutrition. Pasture farms feel the pinch, too, because harvesting the hay and silage for winter feeding uses equipment powered by diesel fuel. No matter how they are fed, the cost of raising cattle and other farm animals is going up.

Government regulation complicates the lives of farmers everywhere, and, as Jenny Drake explains, “Most people don’t realize the amount of regulation we are under and the resulting high overhead. Many raw feeders are shocked at my prices, especially for poultry. They don’t realize that small farms cannot produce meats for under $1 a pound, which is what most people want to pay for their dogs’ dinners. Then we have to add costs related only to processing and regulation, which on my chickens come to more than $2.85 per pound.”

Like other small farmers, Drake appreciates the raw feeders who go out of their way to support her farm and others like it. “If the small farms are not consumer-supported,” she says, “they won’t continue to exist. Even buying some of the raw food you feed your dogs helps support local farms such as ours.”

“Choosing pasture-fed ingredients is a great way to keep dogs strong and healthy,” says Katrina McQuilken, who runs a pet health store in Ridgewood, New Jersey. “The trend toward pasture-fed ingredients exists even in convenience foods. Some manufacturers work with local pasture farms in order to use grass-fed ingredients in their frozen dog foods. Whether you’re feeding green tripe, organ meats, muscle meat, bones, treats, or chews, your dogs will receive better nutrition from pasture-fed animals.”

Comparing labels
As you study descriptions and labels, be ready to decipher the following terms:

■Natural. All Natural. 100 Percent Natural. Although consumers respond to this claim, it’s a meaningless label. According to the USDA, “All fresh meat qualifies as natural.” It should not contain artificial flavors, coloring, chemical preservatives, or synthetic ingredients, and it can be only minimally processed (ground, for example). The USDA requires that meat labeled “natural” carry a statement that clarifies the use of the term, such as “no added coloring.”

The “natural” label does not prohibit the use of animal byproducts in cattle feed. As Jo Robinson reminds us, “Virtually all the beef in your supermarket comes from animals that were treated with growth-promoting antibiotics. You can’t tell by reading the label, however, because the FDA doesn’t require antibiotic use to be listed. It’s agribusiness as usual.”

■ Organic. This label, which applies to beef, other meats, poultry, eggs, and dairy products, has the backing of a legal standard and certification system. The animals involved have not undergone genetic modification (they were not cloned, for example); they were fed grain or grass that was free from chemical pesticides, fertilizers, animal byproducts, and other adulterants and not genetically modified; and they were not treated with antibiotics, growth hormones, or chemical pesticides.

While the animals must have access to the outdoors, they are not necessarily raised on pasture, and their access to the outdoors may be limited. And even though their feed has to be produced organically, it need not be fresh or of high quality.

■Grass-fed or Pasture-fed. The USDA defines grass-fed animals as living on pasture and eating only grass and forage after weaning for their entire lives. The term implies (but the USDA does not require) organic farming methods.

■Free Range or Free Roaming. This label, which is usually applied to poultry, implies grass feeding and unlimited access to open pasture, but because the term has no specific definition in the U.S., it can be misleading. An open door may offer access to the outdoors but chickens might or might not use it, and once they get outside, they may be standing on concrete or gravel. Those who raise poultry outdoors on grass prefer the term “pastured.”

■No Antibiotics. Beef, lamb, poultry, and other meats, eggs, or dairy products sold with this label must be from animals raised without the use of antibiotics over their entire lifetime.

 

■No Hormones. Because hormones cannot legally be given to hogs or chickens, “no hormones” is a meaningless claim for pork and poultry. Beef and dairy products carrying this label are from cattle that have not been treated with hormones.

 

■No Animal Byproducts. The animal’s feed does not contain animal ingredients.

■Biodynamic. Beef, chicken, pork, cheese, and dairy products certified Biodynamic are raised organically according to strict standards developed in the 1920s by Austrian philosopher Rudolph Steiner. This is a “beyond organic” certification.

Because so many label claims are unregulated and because so many farms and ranches operate outside the certification process, the best way to find out how your meat, dairy products, eggs, and poultry are raised and processed is to talk to the growers. Pasture farmers are usually passionate about what they grow. They’ll explain everything in detail and invite you to visit.

“A label is only as accurate as the person placing it on the package,” says Doreen Eldred. “If you want to know the quality of the meat you are getting, you need to know the farmer and how the animals are being raised. It’s all a matter of trust.”

 

CJ Puotinen is a frequent Whole Dog Journal contributor and freelance writer living in New York. She is also the author of The Encyclopedia of Natural Pet Care and many books on holistic health care and herbal remedies for humans.

Tug O’ War is a Fun Game to Play With Your Dog

[Updated February 5, 2019]

TUG O’ WAR OVERVIEW

1. Teach your dog and other family members to play tug by the 10 Rules (explained below).

2. Play the game frequently to help get rid of your dog’s excess energy and to teach him self-control and good manners habits.

3. Use your dog’s tug toy to redirect him from inappropriate behaviors and keep his attention on you around distractions and stressors.

Contrary to conventional wisdom in some dog training circles, tug is a great game to play with most dogs – as long as you and your canine pal play by the rules. Lots of my clients have dogs with aggressive, reactive, and other stress-related behaviors. One of the best ways to help reduce stress is to increase exercise. Tug is great exercise.

I’m constantly encouraging my clients to play tug with their dogs. Inevitably when I suggest it I get a puzzled look and a tentative protest that “some trainer” told them playing tug would make their dog dominant and aggressive. I sure wish I could meet that pervasive “some trainer” some day and convince him/her otherwise. It just isn’t so.

Tug has a lot going for it besides just being good exercise. Most dogs love to tug. Of course, the caveat is that you play tug properly – with rules, which I’ll discuss in a minute. Here are some of the many other reasons this game ranks high on my list of approved activities.

Why Tug is Good for Dogs

Playing Tug O' War With Your Dog

1. Provides a legal outlet for roughhousing

Often, one or more members of the family want to play inappropriate roughhousing games with Bruiser. Said family members are usually male. Sorry, guys, but it’s true! Of course, not all male humans want to roughhouse inappropriately with the family dog, but chances are if someone is going to, it’s Dad, Junior, or the Boyfriend. If you can get your male family members to compromise on a rousing game of tug, everyone wins.

2. Strengthens bonds between dog and guardian

Dogs love to tug. Humans love to play with dogs. Anytime you and your dog can do something together that you both love, it strengthens the bond that holds you together through think or thin, good times or bad, until death do your part. The four to six million dogs who end up in shelters every year in this country are a stark reminder of how much those bonds need strengthening.

3. Builds healthy relationships

You control access to the tug toy. “Leader” is defined as the one who controls the good stuff. By playing tug and granting your dog access to the tug toy, you remind him that the toy belongs to you, the higher-ranking member of the social hierarchy, and out of the goodness of your benevolent-leader heart, you let him play with it sometimes. It actually teaches him that deference behavior (sitting and waiting) makes the game happen. (So much for the “It will make your dog dominant” myth!)

4. Offers incredibly useful reinforcement potential

While it’s important to play sometimes just for the sake of playing, play can be a valuable reinforcer for training purposes as well. Agility trainers are well aware of this; they usually have a bag full of tug toys they can use to help maintain their dogs’ enthusiasm. They even use tug-leashes! You can also use tug to motivate a dog to do really enthusiastic recalls. My own Cardigan Corgi, Lucy, would much rather stay outside and play when the farm work is done and it’s time to come inside. I used tug games with her favorite Udder Tug toy to convince her that coming inside could be fun, too.

5. Redirects inappropriate use of teeth

Some dogs, especially some puppies and adolescent dogs, just want to bite something. It can be annoying, painful, and life-threatening (the dog’s life) when dogs bite human skin, even in play. In the positive training tradition, you get better results if you redirect undesirable behavior, telling your dog what you want him to do rather than what you don’t want him to do.

Chase ’N Pull by Vee Enterprises

When you play tug to redirect inappropriate mouthing behavior you get two benefits for the price of one – in addition to directing the teeth to an appropriate object, you exercise your dog and tire him out – which also makes him less likely to engage in inappropriate mouthing. (Again, so much for the “It will make your dog aggressive” myth.)

6. Teaches dogs self-control

The rules of tug require that your dog sit and wait when you hold up the tug toy. He can only grab for it when you give him permission. If he jumps to grab it prematurely, you say “Oops!” and hide the toy behind your back. This is negative punishment; the dog’s behavior makes a good thing (the opportunity to play tug) go away. Since he doesn’t want the tug game to go away, he learns to control his jump-and-grab impulse in order to make the tug game happen.

7. Creates a useful distraction

When we first got Lucy three years ago, she took delight in tormenting Dubhy, our Scottie, who hikes with me on a long line because his recall is not reliable. The long blue leash snaking through the grass would catch Lucy’s eye, and she’d latch onto it and drag poor Dubhy around. A tug toy, stuck in my back pocket was perfect for redirecting her desire to grab and pull his leash. You can also use a tug toy to keep your dog’s attention focused on you in the presence of general distractions.

8. Modifies behavior

I normally suggest using a high-value treat for the behavior modification process of counter-conditioning and desensitization (CC&D) – giving a dog a new, positive association with a previously aversive stimulus.

Canned (rinsed and drained) or boiled chicken ranks high on most dogs’ list of favorite treat. I had a client with a dog-reactive Briard, however, who was so overly aroused by the presence of a neighbor’s dog on the next-door back deck that she couldn’t even do CC&D with him in her own backyard; he was too stressed to eat chicken. She discovered that playing a low-key game of tug helped change her dog’s emotional state from anxious to happy, which then allowed her to proceed with the CC&D program using food treats.

9. Builds confidence

You can use tug to help a timid dog become more confident. A dog who lacks confidence may be reluctant to play tug at all, at first. Smear a dab of peanut butter or other tasty-but-gooey treat on the end of the toy, and let him lick it off. Keep doing this until he’s licking eagerly, even nibbling at the toy. When you see him nibbling, gently move the toy a little – not enough to scare him! He should eventually grab onto the toy. You can pull a little – gently! Over time, as he gets braver, he’ll be willing to tug harder, until you can work up to a full-blown game of tug.

Variations on the Tug O’ War

The most common style of tug consists of a dog on one end of the toy, a human on the other. You don’t have to stop there, however. Make or buy a “tease pole” toy for extra exercise benefits: tie a toy on a rope and attach it firmly to the end of a sturdy pole, then swing it around at dog-level to encourage your dog to chase it. When he catches it you can play tug, then ask him to “Give” and play chase again.

If you have two compatible dogs who love to tug you can give them each one end of a toy and let them go at it with each other. The key word here is compatible. Because tug does create a certain level of arousal, dogs who are prone to getting into fights should not be encouraged to tug together. Don’t equate growling and snarling with fights, however – a lot of healthy noise often results when compatible dogs play tug together.

If you have two dogs who can tug together, try a threesome! Find a tug toy with one handle for the human and two ends for the dogs. Tug: a game the whole family can play!

At the other end of the spectrum, you can teach your dog to play tug by himself.

Run a rope through a Kong and knot it so the knot is inside the Kong. Stuff the Kong and tie the rope to something so that your dog can tire himself out by tugging at the Kong. Of course, you lose the relationship value of tug with this variation of the game, but you might increase the exercise benefits!

Tug toys come in all shapes, sizes, colors, and materials, but the best ones have these characteristics in common:

• They are long enough that your dog’s teeth stay far away from your hand. I like toys that are at least 12-24 inches in length for teaching tug (the longer the better). Once your dog knows the rules, you can graduate to shorter toys. For some training purposes, a small tug toy you can stuff in a pocket is ideal.

• They are made of a substance that invites your dog to grab and hold, and won’t easily cause damage to teeth and gums. Braided rope and fleece toys work well, as does rubber. Stay away from wood, hard plastic, or metal.

Playing Tug O' War With Your Dog

• They are sturdy enough to withstand significant abuse. Fleece may not do quite as well in this department, especially if you have a very vigorous tugger, but could be perfect for the lightweights. Remember, you’ll put the toy away when you are done tugging, so it doesn’t have to stand up to rough chewing, just tugging.

• The “human end” has a comfortable handle or is otherwise easy to maintain a grip on. This allows you to win most of the time – an important tug rule. If it’s hard to hold onto the toy, your dog will more easily yank it out of your hands.

• They provide good value for their cost. You should be able to find a good sturdy tug toy in the $5 to $25 range, depending on your dog’s size and how energetically he tugs.

The 10 Rules of Tug

There are really only two good reasons not to play tug with your dog: 1) If either you or your dog has some kind of medical condition that rules out this kind of vigorous play (and then you still might be able to play low-key tug) or 2) if you have one of those very rare dogs who just can’t seem to learn to play by the rules, and insists on putting his mouth on you despite your best efforts to teach him otherwise. Barring those, the game is on, with the following rules:

1. Use a toy that is long enough to keep dog teeth far away from your hands, and that is comfortable for you to hold when he pulls.

2. Keep the tug toy put away. Bring it out when you want to play tug.

3. Hold up the toy. If he lunges for it say “Oops” and quickly hide it behind your back. It’s your toy – he can only grab it when you give him permission.

4. When he’ll remain sitting as you offer the toy, tell him to “Take it!” and encourage him to grab and pull. If he’s reluctant, be gentle until he learns the game. If he’s enthusiastic, go for it!

5. Randomly throughout tug-play, ask him to “Give” and have him relinquish the toy to you. If necessary, trade him for a yummy treat. After he gives it to you, you can play again (see steps 2 and 3). You should “win” most of the time – that is, you end up with possession of the toy, not your dog.

6. If, while you are playing, your dog’s teeth creep up the toy beyond a marked or imaginary line, say “Oops! Too bad” in a cheerful voice, have him give you the toy, and put it away briefly. (You can get it out and play again after 15 seconds or so.)

7. If your dog’s teeth touch your clothing or skin, say “Oops! Too bad” and put the toy away for a minute.

8. Children should not play tug with your dog unless and until you are confident they can play by the rules. If you do allow children to play tug with your dog, always directly supervise the game.

9. Only tug side-to-side, not up-and-down (up-and-down can cause injury to your dog’s spine), and temper the vigor of your play to the size and age of your dog. You can play tug more intensely with a 120-pound adult Rottweiler than you can with a Rottie puppy, or a four-pound Chihuahua.

10. When you are done playing, put the toy away until next time. You control the good stuff.

Happy tugging!

Pat Miller is Whole Dog Journal’s Training Editor. She is the author of The Power of Positive Dog Training; Positive Perspectives: Love Your Dog, Train Your Dog; Positive Perspectives II: Know Your Dog, Train Your Dog, and the brand-new Play with Your Dog.

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