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Are Heartworms Developing Resistance to Preventatives?

By
Mary Straus
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In August 2010, representatives of the American Heartworm Society (AHS), the Companion Animal Parasite Council (CAPC), and experts in the field of nematode resistance met in Atlanta. Their goal was to discuss the possibility of heartworms becoming resistant to “macrocyclic lactones,” the scientific name for the heartworm preventatives we know as Heartgard (ivermectin), Interceptor (milbemycin oxime), Revolution (selamectin), and ProHeart (moxidectin).

Heartworms Developing Resistance to Preventatives?

Dr. Everett Mobley, a veterinarian who practices in Missouri, wrote about this issue in his “Your Pet’s Best Friend” blog in May 2009. He says that he first began noticing an increase in the number of dogs in his clinic who tested positive for heartworms despite being on year-round heartworm preventatives in 2006. He learned that other veterinarians were reporting similar experiences, and that “These reports come from the Mississippi valley, starting about 100 miles south of St. Louis, and getting worse as one goes south.”

Experts dismissed these reports for a long time as being due to “client noncompliance,” that is, owners failing to give the preventatives to their dogs 12 months a year. It was not until April 2009 that they began to say, “We know that something has changed, but we don’t know what it is. There is a problem, but the underlying cause has not been determined.”

The issue was a primary topic of discussion at the American Heartworm Society’s 2010 Triennial Symposium held in April. A landmark initial study was presented that evaluated heartworm microfilariae in different regions of the Mississippi Delta. The study revealed differences in sensitivity of the samples to macrycyclic lactones. Separate experiments revealed genetic variability of heartworms in different geographic locations, which could potentially be associated with varying responses to the drugs.

Recommendations

The AHS and CAPC issued a statement in November regarding the findings of the meeting in Atlanta, acknowledging the problem and calling for further study. They believe that any heartworm resistance is geographically limited (presumably to the Mississippi valley) at this time based on credible reports of lack of efficacy. They recommend that pet owners continue to give preventatives year-round, following label directions, as they continue to be effective for the vast majority of dogs. There is no evidence that higher doses or more frequent dosing would increase protection. They also recommend yearly heartworm testing for all dogs, even if they have been kept on preventatives.

In the past, we have recommended that people might safely extend the time between doses of heartworm preventatives to six weeks, and decrease the dosage when using Interceptor, based on the efficacy studies that were done when the FDA approved these drugs. It is safer to administer preventatives monthly and to give the full label dosage. Following these steps will also ensure that, should your dog become infected, the product manufacturer’s guarantee will be honored and treatment costs will be covered. (Manufacturers will guarantee a product only when purchased from a vet.)

We still question the need to give preventatives year-round in cold climates, where mosquitoes cannot survive during the winter. The heartworm life cycle requires the larvae to spend time inside a mosquito in order to develop into adults; without mosquitoes, there is no risk of infection. In warm climates such as the southern half of the U.S. (below the 37th parallel), give heartworm preventatives year-round. This is also necessary to avoid voiding the manufacturers’ guarantees.

If you choose not to give heartworm preventatives year-round, keep in mind that these drugs work “backward,” killing larvae that may have infected your dog in the previous month. Give the last dose after temperatures have dropped, and start them up again a month after your area warms up. If temperatures remain above about 45 to 50 degrees, day and night, you should give your dog monthly heartworm preventatives.

Keep in mind when testing for heartworms that it takes at least six months following exposure before a dog will test positive. This interval may be increased if the dog is being treated with heartworm preventatives during this time. The AHS now recommends that three consecutive negative tests, each six months apart, may be needed before we can feel confident that a dog is not infected with heartworms.

Research into possible resistance of heartworms to current medications is ongoing in a number of universities and other centers in the United States, Canada, and Italy. We’ll keep you updated. 

– Mary Straus

New Treatment for Pituitary-Dependent Cushing’s Disease

By
Mary Straus
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A surgical procedure used on humans to remove brain tumors that cause Cushing’s disease is now becoming available to dogs, thanks to collaboration between a human neurosurgeon, a veterinary endocrinologist, and a veterinary surgeon in the Los Angeles area.

Dogs with Cushing’s

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Cushing’s disease (hyperadrenocorticism, or HAC) is an adrenal disorder  common in middle-aged and older dogs, affecting an estimated 100,000 dogs per year in the U.S. It occurs when the body produces too much cortisol, causing increased appetite and thirst, skin problems, and muscle weakness. Cushing’s can also predispose dogs to other conditions such as diabetes, pancreatitis, and infections.

There are two types of Cushing’s disease: adrenal and pituitary. The pituitary form is the most common, accounting for about 85 percent of cases. Pituitary-dependent Cushing’s is caused by a small, usually benign tumor of the pituitary gland, which leads to overproduction of the hormone ACTH, which in turn triggers the adrenal glands to overproduce cortisol.

Because these tumors have been considered too difficult to remove, pituitary Cushing’s is managed with medications that suppress the production of cortisol. This treatment can relieve symptoms, but cannot cure the disease, and the treatment requires careful monitoring to ensure that cortisol levels don’t get too low. The average life expectancy for dogs with pituitary-dependent HAC is about 30 months, with younger dogs living longer (4 years or more). Many dogs ultimately die or are euthanized due to complications related to Cushing’s disease such as neurological problems, pulmonary thromboembolism, diabetes mellitus, or infection.

Human research into a new type of surgical imaging device is being done at Cedars-Sinai Medical Center in Los Angeles. Recently, veterinary endocrinologist Dr. David Bruyette (DVM, DACVIM) and veterinary surgeon Dr. Tina Owen (DVM, DACVS) from VCA West Los Angeles Animal Hospital contacted the neurosurgeon who had been studying the use of a scope (called a VITOM) and asked if he would investigate whether the device could be used to perform pituitary surgery in dogs. After looking into it, the neurosurgeon recognized that this device would be ideal for dogs, and agreed to show Dr. Owen how to perform neurosurgery to remove pituitary tumors.

The surgery is done by creating a tiny hole in the back of the mouth in order to enter the skull at the base of the brain and remove the tumor. The VITOM, also called an exoscope, displays the area on a large, high-definition monitor, magnified up to 12 times its actual size. The tool makes the procedure easier and safer, but it still requires considerable skill to be able to do such intricate surgery.

I spoke with Dr. Bruyette about the results so far. Dr. Owen has performed the procedure on 15 dogs and two cats. One dog died during the surgery, and two others died after treatment for unrelated reasons; the rest are doing well, with two dogs now remaining symptom-free over a year following surgery. Dr. Bruyette anticipates an intra-operative mortality rate of 2 to 5 percent, and an 85 percent success rate with full remission of symptoms, based on results seen in the Netherlands, where this type of surgery has been performed for several years.

Most dogs remain hospitalized for five to seven days following surgery. Because the pituitary gland controls the sleep/wake cycle, some dogs remain “sleepy” for longer than that. Dogs who live in the area can return home even if still sleepy, but those from outside the area might have to remain hospitalized for up to an additional week. The clinic can work with clients from out of the area, even helping to fly their pets back when ready. Cost of treatment is currently estimated to be $8,000 to $10,000, which should decrease over time.

Currently, Dr. Owen has performed surgery only on dogs with “macrotumors” – those larger than 1 cm. Most pituitary tumors (90 percent) are “microtumors,” too small to be seen by the naked eye. Eventually, they hope to treat tumors of any size. When the tumor can be visualized well, it is sometimes possible to remove the tumor and leave the pituitary gland.

If the tumor cannot be visualized, or cannot be separated from the pituitary gland, the whole gland is removed (“transsphenoidal hypophysectomy”). Veterinary surgeons in the Netherlands have focused on this type of surgery. When the pituitary gland is removed, dogs must be supplemented with thyroid hormone and prednisone to provide cortisol that the body can no longer produce on its own.

Dr. Owen has trained veterinary surgeons at the VCA facility in Boston. She and Dr. Bruyette plan to offer a course on the East Coast later this year to teach other veterinarians to do the procedure. Dr. Bruyette estimates that eventually 5 to 10 specialty facilities in the U.S. will offer this treatment.

Dr. Bruyette also says, however, that ultimately another solution may become available. The doctors hope to do clinical trials on a substance that shrinks pituitary tumors in the laboratory. This oral medication is currently being tested on two dogs, but it’s too soon to know how well it’s working. The researchers are looking for other dogs to participate in clinical trials. Dogs must have a large tumor verified by MRI. Subsequent MRIs will be done at two and three months after starting treatment. If interested, email David.Bruyette@vcahospitals.com. 

– Mary Straus

Orthopedic Equipment for Dogs Designed for Increased Mobility and Extra Support

By
Lisa Rodier
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Do you have a dog recovering from orthopedic or neurologic surgery, one who has mobility issues, or a senior dog who has arthritis? If so, at some point, you have probably wished you could do something – anything! – to help make your dog’s life (and your own) a little easier.

RuffWear’s Web Master Harness

As someone who has shared her life recently with two large breed, geriatric dogs, I can attest firsthand that having a little bit of help can make all the difference in the world. Axel, our 85 lb. Bouvier, in particular, needed assistance toward the end of his life with getting up from lying down, being lightly supported during toileting, and occasionally steadied while walking. We used a few of the products listed below and found that they helped him maintain a good quality of life, mobility, and independence while lessening the physical strain on us.

I asked two veterinarians who specialize in canine rehabilitation to share some of their top picks for canine assistive/rehabilitative equipment. Laurie McCauley, DVM, CCRT, is founder and medical director of TOPS Veterinary Rehabilitation in Grayslake, Illinois, and is considered one of the pioneers in the field of veterinary rehabilitation. Evelyn Orenbuch, DVM, CAVCA, CCRT, recently opened Georgia Veterinary Rehabilitation, Fitness and Pain Management in Marietta, Georgia, and has focused on veterinary rehab medicine since 2003. (Full disclosure: I have worked with Dr. Orenbuch in my capacity as a marketing consultant during the launch of her new clinic.)

Help ‘Em Up Harness from Blue Dog Designs

Photo courtesy Blue Dog Designs

Orthopedic Dog Harnesses

My favorite tool (and that of both veterinarians) is RuffWear’s Web Master™ Harness, described as a supportive, multi-use harness. Originally designed for dogs with active lifestyles (e.g., hiking, search and rescue), the harness has gained a big following with pet people looking for a way to give their dogs assistance in getting up and moving around, whether it be post-surgery or due to a degenerative or other medical condition. The harness features a well-placed, large handle, and is sturdy, machine-washable, and great for helping a dog up, or providing a steadying hand. The only downside is that the dog is required to lift a front paw to get into the harness. Suggested retail price: $50.

Anti-Slip Orthopedic Dog Spray

Offering more support is the Help ‘Em Up Harness from Blue Dog Designs. Both vets and I also give this product four paws up. The Help ‘Em Up is a complete shoulder and hip harness system, featuring two comfortable, rubber handles, one at the front and one at the back. The harness is well made, machine washable, and the front support is detachable from the back. To put the harness on, you don’t need to lift any of the dog’s limbs; I was even able to put it on my Bouvier, Axel, when he was lying down. Suggested retail price: $90 to $110.

Both the Web Master and Help ‘Em Up are comfortable enough for the dog to wear throughout the day in the house.

Orthopedic Foot Wear for Dogs

For dogs who have difficulty navigating slippery floors, Dr. McCauley likes Show Foot™ Anti-Slip Spray by Bio-Groom. Show Foot can be sprayed directly on the bottom of the dog’s feet (pads), or, if the dog is sensitive to the spray sound, can be sprayed on a cotton ball and dabbed on. The spray makes the feet feel tacky so they are less likely to slide on indoor slick surfaces.

Thera-Paw Boots

Having hardwood floors in our house, I tried this product with Axel and found some success. It did leave some smudges where he walked, but they were easily wiped up. Priced at about $10.

Particularly for outdoor use, but great for any dog needing extra traction indoors or out, Dr. McCauley recommends Thera-Paw boots by Thera-Paw. These boots are made of a comfortable, breathable, lightweight, washable neoprene material. They are unique in that they have a front opening, so they’re great for dogs who don’t like to put their feet into boots. The boots use a Velcro closure, and have a natural flex point.

Although suitable for indoor use, these boots are especially good for dogs who need help outside or who chew their feet. The boots are sold individually, which is a nice option if your dog needs only two. Suggested retail: $22.

Handicapped Pets’ Walkin’ Wheels

Photo courtesy of Handicapped Pets

Mobility Devices for Dogs

For dogs who have limited hind end mobility and strength, Walkin’ Wheels offers a two-wheeled adjustable wheelchair that can be adapted as your dog’s needs change.

When a dog first requires a cart, he might be strong in the front end. But with time, or if he has a condition such as degenerative myelopathy, his front end can become weak, too. Dr. McCauley likes Walkin’ Wheels because the angle of the wheels, and therefore the cart’s balance point, can be changed to take the weight off of the dog’s front end, allowing longer ambulatory quality of life for him.

The company sells direct to consumers, and there are numerous instructional videos on fit and sizing on the company website. However, Dr. McCauley recommends that consumers work with their rehab veterinarian to get the correct fit. Walkin’ Wheels are priced from about $250 to $500.

For dogs who cannot put their full weight on their front limbs, but still have motor ability in their hind limbs, Dr. Orenbuch likes a four-wheeled cart, so that the dog can continue to engage his hind legs. A “quad cart” can give the dog support by transferring his weight to the wheels while allowing him to use his legs as much or as little as possible.

Canine Icer Carpal Wraps

Photo courtesy Canine Icer

Putting a disabled dog into a cart does not have to signal the end, says Dr. Orenbuch. Depending on your pet’s condition, using a quad cart can actually speed the rehab process, allowing the dog to achieve greater mobility. She does not have a particular model that is a favorite. Talk with your dog’s rehab vet about whether your dog is a candidate for a quad cart.

Other Aids for Old or Injured Dogs

Dr. Orenbuch casts a vote for another Thera-Paw product, the Hind Limb Dorsi-Flex Assist. These light-weight custom braces provide support and stability for weak or dragging rear paws. Dr. Orenbuch likes them for dogs who have neurologic deficits such as degenerative myelopathy or disc disease, and whose rear toes knuckle, or turn under, as a result.

This product allows those dogs to walk nearly normally and have been used on dogs ranging from a 2-lb. Chihuahua to a 220-lb. Bull Mastiff. She cautions that they are not, carte blanche, for any dog with these conditions, and should be prescribed and fitted by your rehab veterinarian. They generally retail for $75 and up; this is typically a custom-ordered and custom-made product.

Hind-Limb Dorsi-Flex Assist

Photo courtesy Thera-Paw

Many older dogs have chronically overused or injured their wrists, resulting in arthritis. For those dogs, or others who have wrist pain or have stretched the ligaments that stabilize the wrist, Dr. McCauley recommends Canine Icer Carpal Wraps. Many people don’t realize that sore wrists are a problem for their dogs. How can you tell? If your dog has his shoulder and elbow bent, when you bend his wrist downward, his toes should be able to touch his forearm. If this motion is uncomfortable, or if he tightens his muscles or pulls away, then Carpal Wraps can help.

Carpal support is also good for dogs whose wrist joints bend the “wrong way” when they’re standing. These dogs have hyperextension, and carpal support can help slow the progression of arthritis and the accompanying discomfort. Dr. McCauley likes the Carpal Wraps because they do not stop the dog from using the wrist (immobilization makes the joint weaker) but work by preventing the wrist from hyper-extending (which is what causes pain). She recommends dogs wear them on walks or when playing or running around. Suggested retail price: $21 (each).

Lisa Rodier is a frequent contributor to WDJ. She recently assisted in the launch of the Georgia Veterinary Rehabilitation, Fitness, and Pain Management facility. She shares her home with her husband and senior Bouvier, Jolie.

Selecting the Correct Leash Length for Your Various Leash Training Exercises

By
Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA
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When you think “leash,” chances are you think of a four-to-six-foot strap made of nylon, cotton, hemp, leather, or (horrors!) chain, with a snap that attaches to your dog’s collar at one end and a handle for you to hold at the other. You use it to keep him close to you when you take him for walks or other places where he has to be under control.  But a leash can be so much more than that!

Training Off-Leash Walks

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Let’s think outside the box. There’s no law that says leashes have to be a certain length, made of a particular material, or be limited to one snap and one handle. There are all kinds of things you can do with non-traditional leashes. Heck, there’s even a good use for the grocery store chain leash.

Long and Short Of It

It’s true that four to six feet is a good length for normal leash-walking. That’s long enough that you can leave slack in the leash, as is desirable when your dog is walking politely by your side, but short enough you don’t have a large wad of leash-spaghetti in your hands when you want to gather it up so no one steps on it. However, shorter can be good sometimes. So can longer. The following are descriptions of some other useful leash lengths, and what they have to offer.

–Tab: A tab is a three-to-six inch bit of leash that makes it easier to snag your dog in a hurry, if necessary, without grabbing for his collar – a move that many dogs consider rude or intimidating, and that sometimes can elicit aggression. You can leave a tab on your dog at home to corral him easily if the doorbell rings, or make it easier on all parties if he gets tense when you reach for him for any husbandry or management purposes. Sure, you’d like to desensitize him to collar grabs (see “Stay in Touch,” February 2011), but in the meantime a tab can keep you both happy. 

A tab can also be useful at an off-leash training class, or at the dog park – again, if you want to quickly get him under control with minimum tension. Agility people use them a lot.

You can buy tabs commercially; I like the ones from sitstay.com (800-748-7829). Or simply cut an old leash to the desired three to six inches. You can also make one from scratch. The more tense your dog is about having his collar grasped, the longer you might want to make your tab.

Note: The tab should be removed from your dog’s collar for safety reasons when he’s not under your direct supervision.

–Drag line: A drag line serves a similar purpose as the tab, only more so. This is a four-to-six-foot (or longer) light line that stays attached to your dog’s collar when he’s in the house. You can step on it to prevent your dog from dashing out the door, jumping up to greet a guest, “surfing” the counter, or leaping onto an off-limits piece of furniture. Or, step on it to interrupt a game of keep-away when he has something he shouldn’t (after which you cheerfully trade him something wonderful for the forbidden object, of course.) You can probably think of additional uses for your own canine challenges – perhaps gently inviting your uncooperative pal out from under the bed. Drag lines are available commercially in strong, light materials such as parachute cord (petexpertise.com; 888-473-8397) or you can make your own. Remember to remove the line from your dog’s collar when no one is home to supervise!

Ruff Grip Leash

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–Long line or light line: These can run anywhere from 15 to 50 feet, and are for outdoor use. They are most frequently used for teaching reliable recalls at increasing distances (see “A Line on Insurance” on the next page). But they can also be used as an outdoor dragline for backup insurance when you’re not quite sure about your dog’s recall, and to give your dog more hiking freedom when you know you can’t yet trust his recall.

The long line is generally heavier – flat nylon or cotton canvas or marine rope – while the light line is usually parachute cord or some other strong nylon. (I like the ones from genuinedoggear.com; 813-920-5241.)

It takes some skill to manage long and light lines without turning them into a knotted mess, but it’s worth the effort. Although popular because they offer the easy convenience of self-rewinding, retractable leads have far too many drawbacks to be considered a viable training tool.

Caution: If you’re using your long line or light line as a drag line and your dog runs off, he can get tangled around trees and brush and need rescuing because he won’t be able to return to you. Be careful!

Design Makes a Difference

Is there a better mousetrap in the world of leashes? It all depends on what your needs are. A standard leash is certainly the workhorse of the leash-walking set, but there are others that just might be perfect for you and your dog. We’re not talking about the endless variety of designer colors and patterns to match every outfit and holiday; we’re talking function here.

There are couplers that let you walk two dogs without tangling leashes. Leashes that attach your dog to your bicycle. Leashes with two handles, one near the collar, that give you instant control if you suddenly need it (like the ones from fetchdog.com; 800-595-0595). There are hands-free/multi-function leashes that can change length or double as a coupler or a tether (thedogoutdoors.com; 513-703-0210), and non-slip grip leashes that give you added traction, even in the rain. (Check out the ones from ruffgrip.com; 800-547-3966.  I’ve had one of these for a long time and love it!)

Agility folks even use special leashes that have been designed to contain their dog’s special reinforcers: tug toys! Clean Run (cleanrun.com; 800-311-6503) has a whole line of leashes that are designed for tugging.

Don’t forget the T-Touch Balance leash, with a snap at each end and a handle in the middle on a sliding ring so you can attach it to a collar and a harness (available from ttouch.com; 866-488-6824). You use the two ends of the leash almost like reins on a horse, to send subtle, gentle communications to your dog. A similar leash sold by Wiggles, Wags & Whiskers with their Freedom No-Pull Harness functions the same way (wiggleswagswhiskers.com, 866-944-9247).

Long Line Leashes

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Speaking of no-pull and thinking outside the box, here’s a handy tip: You can take that basic six-foot leash (any material other than chain), attach it to your dog’s collar, run it from the back of his neck, down behind the elbow, under his rib cage and up the other side, slip it under the leash where the clip is, around the front of his chest and bring it up under the leash on the other side, and you have an instant emergency no-pull harness.

Material World

Nylon, cotton, hemp, and leather are the materials most commonly used for training leashes. Some trainers prefer leather because it is less abrasive to your hands if your dog pulls. Nylon leashes tend to be the least expensive, with cotton and hemp close behind.

Long lines and light lines tend to be made of parachute cord and other light-but-strong nylon fibers. You can find cotton long lines, but some people complain about how heavy cotton gets when it gets wet (as when it gets dragged through wet grass).

Chain leashes have the most potential to cause significant injury to your hands. However they do have a narrow niche in a training toolbox: they can be useful for dogs who chew on (or chew through) their leather or fabric leashes.

Chain leashes can also be used to discourage a dog who tries to tug on his leash when you prefer that he not. With a non-chain leash, when you resist your dog’s pulling (you can’t just drop the leash and let him go!) he gets reinforced for his inappropriate leash behavior (it’s fun!) – so his leash tugging and chewing may persist and even increase. Most dogs find biting on metal chain mildly aversive, so they learn to keep their teeth off their leash while you work to reinforce more appropriate behaviors.

The other critically important piece of your leash or long line is the snap. You want a leash with quality hardware that won’t rust, corrode, freeze up, or otherwise fail you in an emergency. The last thing you need is a snap that pops open or breaks at the exact instant your dog reaches the end of it. Extra soft, strong, nylon webbing leashes and long lines fitted with very sturdy brass hardware are available from White Pine Outfitters (whitepineoutfitters.com; 715-372-5627).

It’s well worth spending more for well-designed, good quality leash equipment that can last the life of your dog, and might save your dog’s life one day. One of my favorites is the well-made 30-foot light line at Genuine Dog Gear. At $22.95, that’s less than $1.50 per year for a dog who lives to be 15, or four tenths of a cent per day. Another is the 50-foot soft web long line from White Pine Outfitters. At $55.60 that’s still only $3.70 per year, or a penny a day. Isn’t he worth at least that?

On-Leash Training Blossoming into Off-Leash Reliability

By
Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA
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The transition from on-leash training to off-leash reliability can be a frustrating challenge. “But he knows what ‘come’ means!” a client wails, and points as proof to the fact her dog comes impeccably, every time, when called in the training center, the house, or the backyard.

Teaching a Reliable Recall On a Long Line
When you call your dog to you, it’s encouraging to her if you turn your body away and maybe even start moving in the direction you’d like her to travel. Have a treat ready!

Her dog does know what come means – in the training center, in the house, and in the backyard. He also knows that when he’s hiking in the woods, chasing squirrels and rabbits is far more rewarding than coming back when he is called, especially since “Come” often means “The hike is over, the leash is going on the collar, and we’re returning to the car.”

A long line is a valuable tool that can help you navigate the transition from “Coming reliably when called within a safe, controlled area” to that pinnacle of dog training: “Coming reliably when called regardless of where we are or what other exciting things are happening.”

The purpose of the long line is simply to restrain your dog so he can’t be reinforced by tearing after Bambi in the woods. It’s up to you to make yourself interesting and exciting enough to get him to return to you. The long line is not for yanking or dragging him back to you; that will only serve to confirm his opinion that playing in the woods is more fun than hanging out with you!

Here’s the right way to use a long line as a training tool:

–Train a wildly enthusiastic “come” response in controlled environments. Practice with a long line in controlled circumstances as well as doing off-leash recalls, so the long line becomes part of the recall fun.

–Use enclosed areas of different sizes to practice with your dog on and off of the long line. Find a friend with a securely fenced pasture of an acre or more or go to a fenced community dog park during low-usage times when your dog won’t be distracted by other dogs, so you can do your off-line work without worrying that he will disappear into the National Forest for days at a time.

Teaching a Reliable Recall Using a Long Line
Stepping on the dog’s drag line can prevent her from rushing off to investigate something you’d rather she not. When she turns back to you, reinforce the behavior with a high-value treat.

Note: If you plan to drop your long line and let the dog run with it attached to his collar, be sure you are not training anywhere where he might vanish into the woods and become inextricably tangled around trees and brush.

–Whenever you arrive at a new location, do five or ten minutes of enthusiastic recall practice on the long line, interspersed with other good manners training, before removing his leash. Then do a few minutes of focused off-leash training. This will teach him that training happens even in exciting places – a trip to his favorite park does not mean immediate and total lack of control, and removing the leash is not an invitation to charge off into the brush.

–When you first let your dog off the leash, do some short recalls and make them very rewarding and fun – deliver his absolute favorite treat that he only gets when he comes when called, or a quick game of tug with a toy or fetch with a ball that he obsesses over.

–As you hike the enclosed area with your dog, look for opportunities to call him when he’s very likely to come: when he’s looking a bit bored, not when he’s fixated on a squirrel up a tree or totally preoccupied digging a hole. When he comes, make wonderful things happen, then let him go play again. This teaches him that “come” means “wonderful yummy fun-stuff break and then go play,” not “fun’s over, time to go home!”

Teaching a Reliable Recall Using a Long Line
See “Stay in Touch” in the February 2011 issue for information on how to desensitize your dog to a “collar grab,” so you can reach for her at any time and never have her duck or dodge.

–Occasionally during the outing, put the long line back on his collar, hold it, and walk with him no more than 10 feet away from you on the line (this works in better in open pasture than in heavy woods and brush). When one of you spots a squirrel or a rabbit, call him to you. When he comes, tell him what a wonderful dog he is, have him sit, feed him a treat if he’s interested, then release the line, and say “Go chase!” Run toward the squirrel with him to encourage him, if he needs it.

If he doesn’t come, don’t get angry and don’t drag him back to you with the long line. Just wait, holding the line, until he realizes he can’t get to the squirrel and returns to you.

This is the “Premack Principle” which says that the way to get something really wonderful is to do something less wonderful first. In this case, the road to “squirrel” is through “come to me.” As he gets better and better at responding, let him range farther and farther, dragging the long line until, he will “Premack” back to you from 50 feet or more in order to earn his squirrel chase. (Premack also gives the squirrel a significant head start to the nearest tree.)

When your dog returns reliably from the distant reaches of the long line even in the face of thundering herds of squirrels and rabbits, start Premack off-leash. Do your first off-leash test when your dog is near you. When he sees a squirrel at a distance call him, reward with his favorite reinforcer, have him sit, and then tell him to “Go chase!”

Teaching a Reliable Recall Using a Long Line
Focus and attention work are important parts of preparing your dog for off-leash privileges. Maintain her responsiveness with lots of treats, and regular review and practice.

If he takes off after the squirrel instead of coming, don’t keep calling. Wait until he tires of the squirrel, then call him back to you in a pleasant tone, and go back to practicing on the long line. Do not punish him!

The reliable recall, trained with the help of a long line, can serve you well in a variety of challenging circumstances. The temptation can be other dogs playing, an invitingly cool pond on a hot day, or a steaming-fresh pile of horse manure. You could be the dog owner who can proudly say, “My dog knows what ‘Come’ means – everywhere, every time!”

A new look at the Westminster Dog Show

By
Nancy Kerns
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If you, like me, grew up in the San Francisco Bay Area and have always been a dog lover, your parents probably took you to see the Golden Gate Kennel Club dog show several times. By the time I was an adult, I had been to this show six or seven times. It’s a big show, held in a big venue, and it draws huge crowds of dog-loving fans. Many people sit in the stadium seats and watch the show rings, but of course, since it’s a benched show, with the dogs required to be present and viewable in their assigned spots for the entire day, spectators also spend a lot of time walking the aisles of the benching areas, petting dogs, talking to their owners, and taking jillions of photos. It’s a dog lovers dream – but probably not nearly as enjoyable for the dogs, who have to endure countless intrusions into their personal space and all those jillions of photos.

What I learned the first (and only) time that I attended the Westminster Dog Show, held in recent decades at Madison Square Gardens in Manhattan, was that the Golden Gate show was way more pleasant for the dogs than Westminster. On TV, Westminster always looks so glamorous and plush. My impression of the bench areas, however, was that of a nightmare for the dogs. Space is at a premium; the dogs are squished into tight spaces, and the aisles are PACKED with humans. Also, it seems as if every person is carrying more than one camera. I had a camera, too, but I couldn’t figure out how to get a picture of any single dog without 10 other people with cameras in the frame, so I gave up.

Worst of all, even though New York City was experiencing a typically cold winter when I was there, it was HOT in the benched areas, and fans were aimed at many dogs in an effort to keep them comfortable. It was noisy, hot, and smelly – and I gained a huge amount of  respect for the dogs for not coming completely unglued in that environment, and for the handlers who could somehow support and maintain the dog’s enthusiasm for the show ring after enduring hours and hours of grooming and crowds “backstage.”

I’m much more enthused with the latest way to enjoy the Westminster show (which is concluding today, on February 15) – through its Facebook page! The organizers are posting hundreds of bits of news, gossip, and trivia each day, and fans of the dogs and the breeds are commenting on each and every post. Reading through the posts is bringing the show alive again for me. I love learning about the stories behind the dogs – who they are, who the owners, breeders, trainers, and handlers are, and what sort of adventures they’ve had on their way to their moment in the spotlight. Reading the stories, I feel like a dog-loving kid again. Check it out, and tell us what you think: http://www.facebook.com/WKCDogShow

(Healthy Skin & Coat #3)The Importance of Dog Grooming and Skin Care

By
Nancy Kerns
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The primary function of the dog’s hair is as a protective and insulating coating.

But if the eyes are the gateway or the window to the soul, the skin and hair are both gateway and window to the embodiment of an animal’s inner health and well-being. Shiny hair, that is, a hair coat that exudes a healthy and lustrous sheen, is an indicator of overall health of the animal. In contrast, a dull coat that lacks luster is an indicator that the animal isn’t as healthy as she could be.

A dog with flea infestation typically has a brittle, broken hair coat, especially in the area just in front of the tail head where fleas prefer to reside.

Natural flea control always involves a multi-pronged approach. It’s been estimated that less than 10 percent of a given population of fleas are found on the resident dog at any given time. Killing the fleas on the dog, then, is actually a small part of the job!

The bigger task involves removing larvae and pupae from your dog’s home and eliminating places where the flea eggs can develop. Accomplishing this requires what’s called an “integrated pest management” program.

For more information on what your dog’s skin and coat are telling you, purchase Whole Dog Journal’s ebook, Healthy Skin & Coat.

Canine Valentines?

By
Nancy Kerns
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Write a valentine to your dog? Why wouldn’t you? C’mon, join in. Don’t take more than five minutes, just write a quick bit of doggerel for your favorite dog. Mine are for Otto, of course!

 
Roses are red,

Violets are blue,

I could not love this dog more,

And then somehow I do.

 
Don’t forget about doggie valentine haiku! Remember, five syllables, then seven, then five:

That fuzz face, those eyes

Twinkling in merriment,

And that slow wag – love.

Runs with Dogs: Super Bowl Ads Featuring Dogs

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Nancy Kerns
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I’ll bet that in the past 10 years, every Super Bowl broadcast has been spiked with television ads with dogs in them. Why dogs are such reliable pitchmen for beer, cars, and snack foods, I’ll never know. 

Among the highest-rated ads that ran in Sunday’s Super Bowl broadcast was an ad for Doritos, featuring a Pug, Doritos (of course), a nitwit of a boyfriend, and a glass door. When the commercial started, I was certain the punchline would be a computer-generated image of an even flatter-faced Pug. Happily, the dog is the winner at the end of the ad and it’s the nitwit whose face is smushed.

Still, I hope no real-life nitwits are inspired by the ad to try teasing dogs into running into glass doors while cameras record the results.

I was interested to learn that the ad wasn’t the work of a professional ad agency; it was made by an amateur, a 31-year-old part-time web designer who among the winners of a “Crash the Super Bowl contest” contest sponsored by Doritos and Pepsi Max. Reportedly, the guy spent $500 making the ad, which resulted in a $1 million prize from Doritos maker Frito-Lay.

Do you enjoy seeing dogs in advertising? Or do you wish that the ad agencies would leave our furry friends out of their work?

Death at Home: Is Veterinary Euthanasia Better?

By
Nancy Kerns
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I came home on Sunday evening and played the messages on my answering machine. I instantly recognized my sister’s voice. She was sobbing. Though I could barely understand her words, I knew what had caused her such pain.

For weeks, she had been tending to Sophie, her 15-year-old Jack Russell Terrier. We’d had a number of conversations about what to do when it became clear that it was Sophie’s time to go. Sophie had taken a turn for the worse a few days ago; she stopped eating anything, barely drank water, and mostly just followed my sister around, wanting to be held. The vet agreed there wasn’t much she could do for Sophie, except provide for a humane euthanasia.

Sophie had always been scared and shaky at the vet, and my sister was determined that the little dog would have an opportunity to die at home, if at all possible; she couldn’t bear the idea that Sophie would die at the vet’s office. But she didn’t want Sophie to die in any discomfort, either.

Because I knew my sister would do whatever she needed to do to keep Sophie comfortable, I was not worried that Sophie would suffer. I was more concerned that my tender-hearted sister would be able to handle it if things got gritty toward the end.

From what I could understand, Sophie did die at home. My sister indicated that she was going to bed and I shouldn’t call her until tomorrow.

I’ve been at the deathbed of a beloved (human) family member who passed away at home and one who died in the hospital. If I had a choice, I know I would choose to pass at home instead of a hospital. But it’s a lot to ask of whomever is in attendance. The very end of a life can be rough to witness. The canine deaths by veterinary euthanasia that I’ve witnessed, in contrast, were very quick and seemingly peaceful, but each time I’ve arranged for and been present for one, I’ve worried that I’ve hastened the animal’s death before his or her spirit was ready for the transition.

We discussed these issues in detail in “Canine Hospice Care Options” (March 2010) and “How to Prepare for a Dog’s Death” (May 2010).

I haven’t personally been through a dog’s death at home, unassisted by a veterinarian, and although it seems like this would be ideal for the dog, I’m not sure I could do it.

What do you think? What have you done when faced with this sad situation?

(Destructive Chewing #3) – How to Prevent and Cure Destructive Chewing

By
Nancy Kerns
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You can reduce the risk of damage to occasional ill-gotten items by teaching your pup to exchange toys for treats, using something he loves that he’s allowed to have, such as a favorite chew toy or a food-stuffed Kong.

The key to this game is he learns that if he gives something up, he gets something better in return and he gets the original thing back as well. Two rewards for the price of one! Then, when he has a forbidden object, he’s more likely to bring it to you to trade than to drag his prize to his cave under the dining room table for a leisurely chew. The rare occasion that he doesn’t get “the thing” back won’t be enough to overcome the programming you’ve done by playing the “trade” game with him frequently.

In order for this to work, you have to stop playing “chase the puppy” when he grabs the sofa cushion or some other forbidden object. This is often an attention-getting behavior; he’s learned that grabbing “your” toys and dashing off with them initiates a rousing play session.

Here’s what you do:

1. Offer him his well-stuffed Kong and say, “Take it!” Have him on a leash if you think he’ll run off with it.

2. Give him a little while to get fully engaged in chewing, and then say “Give!” or “Trade!” in a cheerful tone of voice and offer him a handful of irresistible treats, such as small bits of chicken or cheese.

3. Hold the treats under his nose and let him sniff. It may take him several seconds to think about it, but eventually he should drop his Kong and start eating the treats. Don’t let him gulp them! Hold the tidbits so he can only take them one by one.

4. When he drops the Kong, say, “Yes!”

5. While he is still nibbling, reach down with your other hand and pick up the toy.

6. Let him nibble a bit longer, then offer him the Kong again.

7. Repeat the exercise several times. Then end the game by giving him back his Kong and letting him chew to his heart’s content.

8. Play this game at every opportunity, whenever he’s engaged in chewing on his toys on his own, or whenever you feel like initiating the game, until he’ll give up his chew object easily on your “give” cue.

For more details and advice on ways to prevent and cure destructive chewing habits, purchase Whole Dog Journal’s ebook, Simple Ways to Prevent and Cure Destructive Chewing.

Happy Ending To a Foster Story

By
Nancy Kerns
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The sun finally came out in my part of California, on the northeast edge of the great Sacramento Valley. I had a number of invitations from friends hit the trails and I accepted almost all of them. As a result, I’m stiff and muscle-sore and my dog, Otto, is sleeping like a log.

The most beautiful outing was the hike on Saturday morning alongside the Feather River. Otto and I met my new friend Chris, owner of my recent foster dog, Chaco; Chaco herself; and Chris’ other dog, Indie, a Bloodhound-Border Collie-mix. Otto and Chaco were happy to reunite, chasing each other and wrestling along the way, while Indie – a little older and less athletic – was content to sniff her way along the trail and try to stay out of the youngsters’ way.

Chris and I stopped again and again to admire the view: the sun’s rays sparkling on the river; elegant blue herons wading on the river’s edge; the lush green grass springing up everywhere. The only thing that wasn’t quite perfect (at least from my view) was Chaco’s habit of flinging herself exuberantly onto and rolling around on every type of poop we came across: big gloppy cow patties, smaller but equally gooey wild turkey droppings, and even tiny, dried-up raccoon poop. She was literally green by the end of the walk and I was super-glad she wasn’t getting into MY car at the end of the hike. Chris is a great sport and a great owner, though, and she laughed it off, saying she had a crate in the car and she had already planned to bathe both her dogs later that day, so why worry?

I’m thrilled that yet one more of my foster dogs has found a terrific home, and I have a new friend and hiking partner – whose dogs are pleasant (if not pleasant-smelling!) and reliable off-leash. Talk about win/win/win!

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