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Properly Diagnosing Canine Hypothyroidism – What are the Signs?

You probably know someone with an underactive thyroid gland; in fact, you may have one yourself. The signs of hypothyroidism in humans include a subnormal body temperature, cold hands and feet, weight gain, hair loss, and constant fatigue. People aren’t the only ones afflicted by this disorder, for many dogs are hypothyroid, too. They may seem lethargic, gain weight while eating normal or below-normal amounts of food, seek warmth, and develop skin and coat conditions. But hypothyroidism causes other symptoms, too, and an accurate diagnosis can require thinking outside the box.

Consider Logan, a highly trained search and rescue dog who, at age three, became so fearful that he could no longer work and was going to be retired. Brodie, an agility dog, had normal thyroid test results but was slow in competition and had constant ear infections. Brewser, an Alaskan Malamute, became aggressive and lost his appetite. Ruq, a Eurasier at a perfect weight, became short-tempered, lethargic, and developed entropion, a condition in which her eyelids rolled inward, requiring surgery to correct.

The veterinarians who treated these dogs insisted they could not be hypothyroid because their test results were “normal,” they were not overweight, or they had beautiful coats. But the vets were mistaken; treating their underactive thyroids returned these dogs to health.

Metabolic Hormones
The butterfly-shaped thyroid gland, which resides in the throat on either side of the trachea, manufactures and stores hormones that control the body’s metabolism. When the thyroid is too active or not active enough, a variety of health problems result. In humans and dogs, hypothyroidism is the most common endocrine disorder; cats and a smaller percentage of humans are prone to hyperthyroidism, an overactive thyroid gland. Hyperthyroidism in dogs is rare unless too much thyroid supplement is given, but can be linked to thyroid cancer or cystic nodules.

The thyroid produces two forms of thyroid hormone: T3 (triiodothyronine), which is the active form, and T4 (thyroxine), the inactive form. When T4 is absorbed into tissues, it is converted into T3, but most of the circulating (total) T4 is not available for absorption. The part that is available is called free T4. In dogs, about half of the body’s T3 comes from the thyroid gland and about half is converted from T4 by other tissues.

The production of T4 is regulated by the pituitary, a tiny pea-sized gland at the base of the skull. The pituitary is known as the “master gland” because it controls so many hormone functions. Among other things, it produces thyroid stimulating hormone, or TSH, which causes the thyroid gland to release T4.

Every cell in the body responds to thyroid hormones, and low levels can affect multiple body systems. Nearly all canine cases of hypothyroidism are primary, which means they are caused by damage to the thyroid gland, usually by inflammation, degeneration, or a tumor.

Hypothyroid Signs
Because hypothyroidism affects many body systems, clinical signs are variable, non-specific, and often slow to develop. The most classic signs (significant weight gain, lethargy, and cold intolerance) do not appear until more than 70 percent of the thyroid gland is destroyed. Other symptoms may appear earlier, such as behavior changes (lack of focus, aggression, passivity, or fearfulness), minor weight gain despite caloric restriction, and apparent food allergies or intolerances.

As many as 88 percent of hypothyroid dogs suffer from chronic skin disorders, including dry, scaly, or greasy skin (seborrhea); thin or coarse, dry coat; excessive hair loss; and offensive skin odor. Additional effects of hypothyroidism can include bradycardia (slow heart rate), constipation, diarrhea, chronic skin and ear infections, corneal dystrophy or ulceration, and female infertility.

One classical finding in hypothyroid dogs is a thickening of tissue, especially in the face and head. The thickened skin produces folds and what is referred to as a “tragic face.” This thickening can occur in other tissues as well, such as facial nerves, causing neurological disorders.

Autoimmune thyroiditis may occur in conjunction with other autoimmune disorders. While the following are not considered symptoms of hypothyroidism, there may be connections between hypothyroidism and megaesophagus, laryngeal paralysis, Addison’s disease, ear infections, ruptured cruciate ligament, pancreatitis, vitiligo (pigment loss), unprovoked aggression, and the sudden onset of seizure disorders.

As many as 77 percent of dogs with seizures may be hypothyroid, although the link between these conditions is unclear. One study showed a significant relationship between thyroid dysfunction and seizures as well as between thyroid dysfunction and dog-to-human aggression. Treatment follow-up in 95 of these cases showed a significant behavioral improvement in 61 percent of the dogs.

Potential Causes
The leading cause of hypothyroidism in dogs is damage caused by the body’s own immune system. W. Jean Dodds, DVM, author of The Canine Thyroid Epidemic: Answers You Need for Your Dog, specializes in canine thyroid problems. Dr. Dodds estimates that more than 80 percent of canine hypothyroid patients have an inherited autoimmune disorder resulting in a condition similar to Hashimoto’s thyroiditis in humans. Lymphocytic thyroiditis, which is common in dogs, is an inflammation of the thyroid gland caused by the immune system attacking the gland by mistake.

Most of the remaining cases are caused by idiopathic follicular atrophy: degeneration of the thyroid gland without evidence of inflammation (idiopathic means that its cause is unknown), and may be the end result of immune-mediated destruction.

Dr. Dodds blames poor breeding practices, frequent vaccinations, immune-suppressing medications, nutrient-deficient diets, and exposure to environmental toxins for today’s epidemic of canine hypothyroidism.

Because the thyroid needs iodine in order to function, an iodine deficiency may contribute to hypothyroidism. However, most commercial dog foods contain adequate levels of iodine, so this is unlikely to occur unless the dog is fed a home-prepared diet lacking in iodine. Excess iodine from oversupplementation can also suppress thyroid function and even contribute to autoimmune thyroiditis. Do not add kelp to a commercial diet that already contains iodine. According to Dr. Dodds, excessive iodine resulting from adding kelp to commercial food while a dog is pregnant or nursing can destroy the thyroid glands of fetal or newborn pups.

Although rare, some dogs are born with congenital defects that prevent the production of thyroid hormones. This condition has been seen in Giant Schnauzers and Boxers.

Thyroid tumors are another uncommon cause of hypothyroidism, but unless a tumor affects both lobes of the thyroid and the gland is completely destroyed, hormone output usually remains normal.

Secondary hypothyroidism develops when some other influence causes the thyroid gland to produce insufficient thyroxine, such as when a brain disease interferes with the regulation of thyroid gland activity, or when the gland is destroyed by radiation therapy, surgical removal, or the administration of medications that affect thyroid gland activity.

Diagnosis
To diagnose hypothyroidism, veterinarians rely on several thyroid function tests, including total T4, free T4, total T3, free T3, TSH, and tests for autoantibodies T4AA, T3AA, and TgAA, which indicate autoimmune thyroiditis.

Thyroglobulin (or Tg) autoantibodies will be high in about 92 percent of cases where T3 or T4 autoantibodies are present, so tests for TgAA can be used in their place and to monitor response to treatment. About 20 percent of dogs with thyroglobulin autoantibodies but no signs of hypothyroidism will progress to overt signs within one year. Rabies vaccination within 45 days of the test can cause falsely elevated results; giving thyroid supplementation up to 90 days before the test will decrease the result.

Barry D. Wood

The TSH test, which is commonly used to diagnose human hypothyroidism, is not reliable in dogs. High TSH combined with low free T4 helps to confirm the diagnosis, but normal or low TSH does not rule it out. The total T4 screening test also cannot be used to rule out hypothyroidism, as the presence of autoantibodies can falsely increase the result. The most accurate test is the Free T4 by Equilibrium Dialysis, although even that by itself gives an incomplete picture.

T3 results are not reliable for diagnosing hypothyroidism. T3 levels are typically normal in hypothyroid dogs. High levels can be caused by T3 autoantibodies; low levels are often linked to non-thyroidal illness (NTI).

Normal T4 test results can vary by age, size, and breed – normal levels are lower in older dogs, large dogs, and especially sighthounds – and unrelated illnesses can reduce thyroid levels, as can treatment with seizure medications, corticosteroids, non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs, beta blockers, drugs used to treat separation anxiety, and some antibiotics. Because circulating blood levels of thyroid hormones may not reflect the cellular and tissue levels of these hormones, dogs with normal test results but with clinical signs may benefit from thyroid supplementation.

At the same time, an accurate diagnosis is important because treating a dog for hypothyroidism that doesn’t exist creates new problems.

Sick Euthyroid Syndrome (SES) is often misdiagnosed as hypothyroidism. In SES, dogs with normally functioning thyroid glands (euthyroid) have decreased thyroid hormone levels because of trauma, stress, injury, or poor diet, any of which can affect hormone levels. The thyroid responds to stress, illness, or injury by reducing thyroid hormone secretion, thus slowing the body’s metabolic rate and conserving energy. Because the underlying cause of SES may be difficult to identify, this protective mechanism can be mistaken for hypothyroidism. Examples of non-thyroidal illnesses that can lower thyroid levels include Cushing’s disease, diabetes mellitus, chronic renal failure, liver disease, and Addison’s disease. When these diseases are treated, the apparent hypothyroid problem corrects itself.

Other test results may help confirm the diagnosis. Over 75 percent of dogs with end-stage hypothyroidism have high cholesterol levels in blood drawn after a 12-hour fast, though this may not be seen in early stages of the disease. Approximately 40 percent are anemic. Liver enzymes (likely due to altered fat metabolism) or creatine kinase (CK) are sometimes elevated. Because other factors can affect these test results, they support a diagnosis of hypothyroidism without being definitive on their own.

Even the weather can affect results, for a ride to the vet on a hot summer day may temporarily decrease total T4 levels, causing false low-thyroid results.
When diagnosis is in doubt, blood can be sent to Dr. Dodds’ Hemolife Laboratory, a division of Hemopet. Dr. Dodds will also review test results from other labs with dog owners and veterinarians. She keeps track of normal test result ranges for different breeds and situations, which can help determine whether a low-normal test result might indicate hypothyroidism.

A therapeutic trial for at least six weeks can also be used when there is a question about diagnosis, although improvements may be seen in dogs with SES who are not truly hypothyroid.

Treatment
Hypothyroid dogs respond quickly to thyroxine (T4) treatment, with improvements in attitude, mood, mental alertness, energy, activity levels, appetite, and aggressive behavior during the first week or two. Skin and coat problems usually improve within four to six weeks, while hair regrowth may take four months or longer. In most cases thyroid medication is needed for life.

Medication can be given either with or without food but should always be given the same way because food interferes with absorption and thyroxine binds to soy and calcium. Many veterinarians recommend giving thyroid medication at least an hour before or three hours after meals. If symptoms do not resolve or T4 levels remain low when supplements are given with meals, they should be given separately to ensure adequate absorption.

Soloxine (levothyroxine sodium) is the most commonly prescribed medication for dogs with hypothyroidism. (Synthroid is the same drug’s human formulation.) Because thyroid supplementation increases the metabolic rate, dogs with significant heart disease or hypertension (high blood pressure) should be treated with caution.

The typical thyroxine starting dose is 0.1 mg per 10 pounds of ideal body weight every 12 hours (twice daily dosing works best due to the medication’s short half life in dogs). Smaller dogs require higher doses for their size, while sighthounds should be given less. In complicated cases, where the patient also has diabetes or an illness affecting the liver, kidneys, or heart, treatment should begin more slowly, at 25 percent of the standard beginning dose, and gradually increase over three months.

Veterinarians report differences in how dogs respond to generic and brand-name drugs; many warn against using generics because of differences in absorption and bioavailability. Fortunately, brand-name thyroid drugs are inexpensive, just a few dollars a month, so there is little economic advantage to using generics. Once a dog is stabilized on a particular thyroid medication, it’s better to keep the dog on that product rather than switch from one brand to another.

Follow-up T4 testing ensures that the dosage is correct. The timing of the test is important, as T4 levels will be lowest just before the pill is given and highest four to six hours after. This testing is usually done four to eight weeks after therapy begins. TSH levels can also be checked, for high TSH indicates that the dosage is too low. (Normal or low TSH levels are not meaningful.)

Signs of a too-high dosage can include increased thirst, drinking, and urination; weight loss; diarrhea; panting; nervousness or anxiety; restlessness; pacing; hyperactivity; and an elevated heart rate.

After the initial dosage is confirmed, annual monitoring is recommended unless the dog develops new symptoms in the interim. If a dog has been on thyroid supplementation for some time and there is any question about the diagnosis, treatment must be discontinued for at least two months before test results will be valid. There is no apparent harm in abruptly stopping thyroid supplementation. If possible, medications known to interfere with thyroid levels should be discontinued.

Complementary Therapies
While thyroxine is safe when taken as directed, some caregivers prefer to avoid synthetic drugs and would rather use natural products whenever possible. Natural thyroid extracts made from bovine or porcine thyroid glands are used in human medicine (Armour Thyroid, Westhroid, Nature-Throid, and the Canadian product ERFA are all good choices), but because these products contain both T4 and T3 thyroid hormones, their dosages require adjustment.

Natural thyroid dosages are measured in grains (60 mg = 1 grain), and 1 grain natural thyroid extract equals 74 mcg (0.074 mg) synthetic thyroxine. Thus, 0.1 mg thyroxine equals about 1.5 grains natural thyroid, 0.2 mg thyroxine equals approximately 3 grains, and 0.3 mg thyroxine equals about 4 grains natural thyroid.

Dessicated thyroid extracts cost more than synthetics and larger amounts may be needed. Because they contain T3 as well as T4, they can help the few dogs who are unable to convert T4 to T3.

There are also non-prescription thyroid support supplements that contain thyroid glandular material from which thyroid hormones have been removed. Although these products cannot replace thyroid hormone medication in true cases of canine hypothyroidism, says Dr. Dodds, they have been used successfully to lower the prescribed dose, and may also help dogs with declining thyroid function who are not yet fully hypothyroid.

Dr. Dodds recommends Standard Process Thytrophin PMG and Standard Process Canine Thyroid Support. Other products that include glandular material among other ingredients include Metabolic Advantage Thyroid Formula, Thyroid Glandular, Bovine Thyroid Health, and Thyrosine Complex (see Resources list on page 19).

Nutrition is a key factor in treating hypothyroidism, and a high-quality diet is crucial. The most important mineral for thyroid health is iodine, which should be present in optimal amounts.

The National Research Council (NRC) recommends about 100 mcg iodine daily for a dog weighing 10 pounds, 300 mcg for a 50-pound dog, and 500 mcg for a 100-pound dog. Iodized salt contains about 105 mcg iodine per 1/4 teaspoon. (Unrefined sea salt contains trace amounts but is not a significant source of iodine.) Yogurt, eggs, and fish contain iodine, but the most important food source of this essential mineral is seaweed.

The famous herbalist Juliette de Bairacli Levy considered kelp an essential supplement for dogs and other animals. “I introduced seaweed to the veterinary world when a student in the early 1930s,” she wrote. “It was scorned then, but now it is very popular worldwide.” She credited kelp and other sea vegetables with giving dark pigment to eyes, noses, and nails, stimulating hair growth, and developing strong bones.

When adding kelp or other seaweeds to a home-prepared diet, be sure to consider their source, for plants grown in polluted waters can be contaminated by heavy metals. In 2007, researchers at the University of California/Davis found that eight out of nine kelp supplements tested contained abnormal levels of arsenic. Look for organic certification on labels and check with manufacturers regarding their testing for heavy metals and other contaminants.

Because the iodine content of kelp and other sea vegetables varies widely, there is no single dose that provides the NRC’s daily recommendation for dogs fed a home-prepared diet. If the label doesn’t provide a seaweed product’s iodine content, contact the manufacturer for that information.

Note that raw cruciferous vegetables (members of the cabbage family) can suppress thyroid function if fed in quantity. These include broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cauliflower, cabbage, kale, collard greens, and more. Another ingredient to avoid is soy, which contains isoflavones that can block the activity of thyroid peroxidase (TPO), the enzyme that helps convert T4 to T3.

A selenium deficiency can slow the conversion of T4 to T3, a problem unlikely to occur in dogs on commercial pet food but possible with home-prepared diets. Ocean fish, turkey, chicken, and beef are all significant sources of selenium, but the mineral’s wonder food is the Brazil nut. The NRC recommends 37 mcg selenium daily for 10-pound dogs and up to 207 mcg daily for dogs weighing 100 pounds. Brazil nuts contain 70 to 90 mcg selenium each, so a single Brazil nut given every few days to a small dog or every day to a large dog can be inexpensive insurance for dogs fed a home-prepared diet that might be low in selenium. Like most minerals, too much selenium can be dangerous, so don’t oversupplement.

Because adrenal exhaustion or fatigue can impair thyroid production, adrenal support supplementation may result in a marked improvement.

Diagnosing Outside the Box
It would be wonderful if every hypo-thyroid dog presented the same obvious symptoms and veterinarians never missed a diagnosis. But hypothyroid dogs come in all shapes, sizes, and conditions, and you can’t always tell just by looking. Here are seven dogs who demonstrate the wide variety of symptoms that an underactive thyroid can cause.

-Logan: Too Scared to Work
Logan is an IPWDA-certified Trailing K9 (search and rescue dog) active with ATT Search and Rescue Dogs of Virginia. A 7-year-old Golden Retriever/Malinois-mix, he lives with Joanne Kuchinski and Barry Wood in Danville, Virginia.

“After three years of training,” Kuchinski says, “Logan went from being a working fool to being afraid to get out of the car. He would sit and shake. He was scared of everything.”

She was about to retire Logan from search and rescue work when she had his thyroid tested. The result was very low normal. “The veterinarian brushed me off,” she says, “but from my research I knew that low normal might be the issue. I went to another vet who listened to my concerns and put Logan on thyroid medication. Two weeks later Logan attended a seminar and was almost back to his old self. He worked in a crowded parking lot (the same one he sat and shook in) like a champ.

“That was in February of last year,” she continues. “In May he took his International Police Working Dog Association trailing test during a thunder storm and passed it. The instructor, who saw him before and after his thyroid treatment, could not believe it was the same dog. Before his treatment we went to the beach because Logan loves water, but all he did was hide under a picnic table. The following year we went back to the same beach and he ran in the surf, chased a ball in the waves, and enjoyed himself racing all around.”

-Brodie: Slow Agility Dog?
Brodie, a Labrador Retriever, has a long string of titles after his registered name (Weymouth’s Scottish Brodie, AXP, OJP, NFP, NAC, NCC, CTL3-R, CTL4-F, CTL3-H, CGC), most from agility, the sport in which he’s competed for eight years.

Despite all his titles, says Laura Williams of Old Bridge, New Jersey, Brodie was always slow, and he weighed more than she liked. “In addition,” she says, “he always seemed to have dirty ears no matter how much I cleaned them, and his toenails grew so slowly, they never seemed to need clipping.”

Brodie’s blood test results were evaluated by Dr. Jean Dodds, who determined that as a performance dog, his thyroid levels were too low. “After being put on Soloxine,” says Williams, “his coat improved to the point where friends noticed and commented, his nails needed clipping on a regular basis, his ears improved, and his weight came down from 77 to 65 pounds. I attribute all of these changes to getting his thyroid regulated. Also, his energy level improved, which carried over into the agility ring.”

Brodie turns 11 on August 5 and he currently competes at the Excellent level in AKC Agility. “I hope to keep running him as long as possible,” says Williams. “I think it helps keep him healthy.”

-Diagnosing Ruq
Ruq (which rhymes with duke and is short for Amaruq, an Inuit word for wolf) is a Eurasier living with Pam Richard in Portsmouth, New Hampshire.

“When we realized something was wrong with her,” says Richard, “we had a terrible time getting a diagnosis. Ruq’s problems included a very delicate digestive system with frequent diarrhea, plus hair loss and lethargy. She went from being a social, playful dog to being short-tempered and uninterested in play.

“The vet we were seeing did not recommend thyroid testing. I eventually took Ruq to a holistic vet and asked about her thyroid based on research I had done. Her blood was sent to Dr. Dodds, and in November 2008 she was diagnosed with hypothyroidism. We began giving her 0.4 mg of Soloxine twice a day.”

One reason it took so long for Ruq to be diagnosed was that she was never overweight. She was her heaviest at 57 pounds, only two pounds more than her optimum 55 pounds. “I think the fact that she eats a home-prepared diet may have helped keep her weight under control despite the thyroid problem,” says Richard, “but that was a disadvantage when we were looking for answers.”

By 2008, when she was finally diagnosed, Ruq had developed the symptom known as “tragic face,” and she eventually had surgery for entropion, which Richard thinks may have been a result of the change in her facial muscle structure caused by hypothyroidism.

Thanks to her medication, Ruq is once again a playful, amusing dog. She no longer suffers from chronic indigestion or diarrhea, and despite being almost eight, she acts like a puppy. “I am so happy to have my girl back!” exclaims Richard. “I have used Ruq’s story to urge people to screen their dogs for hypothyroidism, as it is so much better to receive an early diagnosis.”

-Brewser: Atypical Signs
In 2007, Brewser, a 3-year-old Alaskan Malamute belonging to Lisa Jones of Uxbridge, Massachusetts, was a sociable, happy dog who played well with other dogs and people, worked as a therapy dog, and earned titles in Rally. He was working on his AKC Companion Dog (CD) title when, according to Jones, he suddenly became dog-aggressive. “He never hurt another dog, not even in day care where they were all loose together, but he growled and snarled at them,” says Jones. “This took him out of competition. The group ‘stay,’ which had been his most solid exercise, was now impossible.”

Brewser’s veterinarian believed the changes stemmed from his breed, age, and a learned behavior from day care.

Jones removed Brewser from day care and began a painstaking process of rehabilitation by slowly building his tolerance for other dogs. She tried clicker training, but he wouldn’t eat treats, so she found other ways to reward him. Brewser’s behavior improved, and he even enjoyed the new puppy Jones got in 2009, but his appetite waned and he began to lose weight. A year later, Brewser lost interest in obedience training. His energy was low, he didn’t learn new things as quickly as he used to, and his stamina disappeared. But whenever Jones asked their veterinarian about Brewser’s thyroid, she was told that his coat was too nice for him to have thyroid issues.

In July 2011 Brewser developed a corneal ulcer. Jones took him to an ophthalmologist at Tufts University in Massachusetts. “It was a routine injury,” she says, “but I was stunned that in the few weeks since his last vet visit he had gained four pounds despite continuing to turn his nose up at food.” A week after Brewser healed, he developed a corneal ulcer in the other eye and more weight gain. “I asked the ophthalmologist if this could be the result of a disease and he said his eye looked healthy. I asked about thyroid and was once again told that his coat was too nice.”

Two weeks later Jones took Brewser to a holistic veterinarian, and his life turned around. “She said she didn’t care what his coat looked like,” says Jones. “Eye changes and appetite changes can absolutely be related to the thyroid. She drew some blood and he tested low, so low that Dr. Dodds, whom we consulted, started her comments with the word ‘Wow!’”

Brewser began taking Soloxine. Within 10 days, his leash aggression waned, his appetite returned, and he lost weight. In hindsight, Jones describes his symptoms as similar to depression. He had decreased mental alertness, difficulty concentrating, less playful behavior, was easily fatigued, suffered from sore joints, lost interest in activities he previously enjoyed, became overly sensitive to stress, displayed erratic behavior and moodiness, was fearful and anxious, lost his appetite, and experienced weight changes. In 18 months his weight went from 83 to 74 to 91 pounds.

“He is maintaining a healthy weight of 82 pounds,” says Jones, “and I no longer have to bait his food with special treats or hand-feed him. He takes treats in training and enjoys working again. He does not want to complete, most likely because I get nervous and he is sensitive to me, but we train for fun. At seven years of age, he is more like the boy I knew from birth to age three.”

-Reese: What Does Cancer Have to do With It?
Reese, an 8-year-old Dachshund living with Angel Seibert in Virginia Beach, Virginia, was diagnosed with throat cancer in 2009 when she was five years old.

Reese’s veterinarian removed the tumor but left “dirty margins” in the throat area, so Reese was treated with radiation at North Carolina State Veterinary Hospital, a procedure that destroyed her thyroid gland. “No one mentioned it to me at the time,” says Seibert. “I was just happy that the cancer was gone. She gained a lot of weight and never acted as though she felt very good. I just thought she was getting old and that the radiation treatment took a toll on her.”

Reese eventually grew seriously ill. “When the vet ran tests,” says Seibert, “everything came back crazy. Her liver levels were very elevated and her pancreas was abnormal. My vet was stumped but asked if anyone had mentioned that her thyroid might be damaged by the radiation. They hadn’t, but we immediately put her on thyroid medication, and what a difference! We didn’t realize how sick she was until she started the medication. She began to play all the time and chased critters in the back yard like she had a new lease on life. She lost six pounds over the next few months and is now a happy, healthy dog.”

-Donnagan: From Friendly to Fear-Aggressive
Marion Westerling of Maryville, Tennessee, adopted Donnagan, a 7-year-old mixed breed, from a rescue organization in 2005, when he was seven weeks old. “For the first two years he was an absolute joy,” she says. “He went to training class, got along with everyone, and was a great dog. Then we introduced another dog into the house. We knew it might be a little tough, but we had no idea what was coming.”

Overnight Donnagan became aggressive, viciously attacking both of the family’s other dogs – and Westerling, when she tried to break up the fights. “He bit me four times,” she says, “once putting me in the hospital with a blood infection. Everyone, including my own vet, told me he was just a vicious dog and needed to be put down.”

But Westerling knew there was something wrong with Donnagan, and she kept looking for answers. Finally she found a veterinarian who listened to her and did some blood work. “Sure enough,” she says, “hypothyroidism. Donnagan continues to have anxiety and we watch for certain triggers, but since he went on thyroid medicine, he is a different dog. Six months ago we introduced another dog to the family and after a week, he accepted her and loves her.

“It’s frustrating to me,” she continues, “that so many vets are not listening to their clients. We know our dogs and know when something is wrong. Euthanasia is not always the best answer. I own a doggy daycare and hotel, and when I see a dog come in with a lot of fear aggression, I encourage the owner to take the dog to the vet for a health checkup, especially a thyroid check. I know because I’ve been there.”

-Tillie: A Giant Sheltie?
Laura Simcox of Louisville, Kentucky, adopted Tillie, a Sheltie, from the nearby Woodstock Animal Foundation. When Tillie was first picked up in September 2008, she weighed 62 pounds, more than twice her ideal weight (see “before” photo of Tillie on page 12). She was diagnosed as hypothyroid and put on medication.

Tillie was Simcox’s Christmas present in 2008. “At that time,” she says, “Tillie was down to 50 pounds and still had ear infections but her skin issues had mostly cleared up. Over the next year she ate a low-calorie kibble. In addition to thyroxine, my veterinarian also has her on gemmotherapy, and I add a few drops of the remedy called ‘bloodtwig dogberry’ to her food.”

The plant bud remedies used in gemmotherapy, whose manufacturing methods resemble those of homeopathy, are said to stimulate the body’s excretory organs and systems and promote detoxification. Holistic veterinarians who use gemmotherapy recommend bloodtwig dogberry for the thyroid, using it as an adjunct treatment for detoxifying and strengthening the thyroid gland.

Tillie gradually increased her exercise. “She had a great desire to play fetch,” says Simcox, “and she would waddle after my other two dogs as they chased balls. She lay down when she was tired and, as the weeks went by, longer periods elapsed before she had to rest.

“Today at 25 pounds, Tillie is a beautiful shadow of her former self. When we play fetch, I tire of the game long before she does. She has earned her Canine Good Citizen title, is training in agility, and is enrolled in a therapy dog class.”

Like the other dogs described here, Tillie (seen in her “after” photo on page 13) could be a poster dog for hypothyroidism – a dog whose health problems were easily resolved once they were properly diagnosed, and whose life was transformed in the process.

CJ Puotinen lives in Montana. She is the author of The Encyclopedia of Natural Pet Care and other books and a frequent contributor to WDJ.

Mary Straus is the owner of DogAware.com. She lives with her Norwich Terrier, Ella, in the San Francisco Bay Area.

A Good Recall

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Recently we enjoyed meeting our new brother in law, and providing day care for his 4-year-old Border Collie, Sis. Arriving from northern Idaho, he was totally unprepared for the reality of traveling with a dog during a northern California heat wave. We were more than happy to offer our home and shady fenced yard to Sis so her owners could sightsee without endangering her in a hot car.

Sis proved to be a pleasure. I thought how alien this world and we must have seemed. Transported from life on the ranch bringing in cattle and following pack mules, she cheerfully and quickly adapted. She blended into our little pack, tolerating my cranky senior Australian Cattle Dog and the energy of my 6-month-old pup. Although she clearly missed her owner, she seemed content with us and even learned our family’s favorite game of “retrieve the bouncing Kong.”

Encouraged by the successes of the first day, I was relaxed on day two of her visit and went about my daily chores and routine. Then suddenly, disaster: Sis was nowhere to be seen. I called frantically to my husband and we both raced around the property in search of Sis. Then we saw her — she was outside our fences and traveling quickly up the irrigation canal. We raced out the gate and both called “SIS COME!” Without a pause, she spun on a dime and raced back to us. She seemed almost puzzled by the praise and affection party she received. I was reminded that there is no more important gift we can give our dogs than a good recall.

Jozette Rutherford, Oroville, CA

Resource Guarding – A Natural, Normal Canine Behavior.

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Resource guarding is a natural, normal canine behavior. In fact it’s a normal behavior for most warm-blooded animals. Even we humans guard our resources – sometimes quite fiercely. Think about it. We lock our doors. Store clerks have loaded .22 rifles under checkout counters, while homeowners keep shotguns and baseball bats leaning in the corner by the back door. Banks keep valuables in vaults. Some of us get insanely jealous if someone pays too much attention to our significant other.

Dogs guard their resources as well, sometimes quite fiercely. This is most troublesome when they guard from humans, but can also get them in hot water when they guard from other dogs. That said, some dog-dog guarding behavior is quite appropriate and acceptable.

As an example: In a dog park or doggie daycare, Dog A is chewing happily on a (insert any valuable resource here). Curious, Dog B approaches. Dog A gives Dog B “the look.” Dog B quickly defers, saying “Oh, excuse me!” by calmly turning and walking away. No harm done. Much of the time the dogs’ owner isn’t even aware that this occurred.

This is the ideal resource-guarding scenario. Many times, however, other, less appropriate scenarios occur.

For more advice on how to recognize the signs of resource-guarding and ways to reduce, eliminate and prevent it, purchase Whole Dog Journal’s ebook Resource Guarding.

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Proteolytic Enzymes – Natural Pain Relief for Dogs

Enzymes given with food are used for digestion, but certain enzymes (proteases, which break down proteins) can also help with inflammation, pain, recovery from injury, and more when given apart from food. Systemic enzyme therapy, also called metabolic or proteolytic enzyme therapy, allows enzymes to enter the body where they can be used for healing rather than digestion. Examples of proteolytic enzymes include pancreatin, trypsin, and chymotrypsin (from the pancreas); bromelain (from pineapple); and papain (from papaya). Proteolytic enzymes work best for inflammation when given away from meals and combined with bioflavonoids such as quercetin or rutin (rutosid).

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BENEFITS: Systemic enzyme therapy is theorized to work by breaking down proteins in the blood that cause inflammation, and by removing fibrin, which prolongs inflammation. Proponents say that systemic enzyme therapy promotes health in every part of the body by reducing pain and inflammation, speeding healing, supporting a healthy immune system, shrinking tumors, and preventing metastasis from cancer.

Enzyme therapy may also help to prevent soreness and injury during and after exercise when taken routinely. Holistic veterinarians may prescribe systemic enzyme therapy for arthritis and other conditions involving inflammation; injuries; skin and coat problems; cancer; autoimmune disorders; and before and after surgery to reduce swelling, bruising, and pain.

Studies in the U.S. are limited, but systemic enzyme therapy has been studied and used in Germany for decades.

For example, a 2008 German review of “rigorous clinical studies” published in the journal Integrative Cancer Therapies found that “systemic enzyme therapy significantly decreased tumor-induced and therapy-induced side effects and complaints such as nausea, gastrointestinal complaints, fatigue, weight loss, and restlessness and obviously stabilized the quality of life. For plasmacytoma patients, complementary systemic enzyme therapy was shown to increase the response rates, the duration of remissions, and the overall survival times.”

CAUTIONS: Proteolytic enzymes can thin the blood and increase the risk of bleeding, especially at higher doses. Do not give to dogs with clotting disorders, gastric ulcers, or those receiving blood-thinning medications. If anemia or signs of bleeding develop, discontinue right away. High doses may cause diarrhea.

DOSAGE: Give enzyme products between meals (at least one hour before or two hours after) for systemic effects. Follow product dosage instructions, adjusting human dosage for the size of your dog. Companies that make products for both people and dogs suggest giving 3 tablets twice a day for adult humans, 3 tablets once a day for dogs weighing 51-100 pounds, 2 tablets daily for dogs weighing 21 to 50 pounds, and 1 tablet daily for dogs weighing 13 to 20 pounds. Higher doses are recommended for a variety of conditions.

RECOMMENDED SOURCES: The most popular enzyme formulas contain pancreatin, bromelain, papain, rutin, trypsin, and chymotrypsin, and are enteric coated to protect the enzymes from breaking down in the stomach. Some companies make canine versions that have the same ingredients as their human products. Products made for humans are generally more economical. Recommended sources include:

-Garden of Life’s Wobenzym N (gardenoflife.com, 866-465-0051) (Fido-Wobenzyme, the version labeled specifically for canine use, appears to have been discontinued)

-Vitacost’s FlavenZym (vitacost.com, 800-381-0759)

-Naturally Vitamins’ Medizym, Medizym V, and Medizym-Fido (naturally.com, 800-899-4499)

-Enzymatic Therapy’s Mega-Zyme (enzy.com, 800-783-2286)

-Bromelain supplements, alone and in combination with bioflavonoids and other ingredients, are available from many companies, such as Now Foods’ Quercetin with Bromelain (nowfoods.com, 888-669-3663)

More information: See “Banking on Enzymes,” WDJ January 2001 and “Digest These Benefits,” WDJ October 2005.

Mary Straus is the owner of DogAware.com. Straus and her Norwich Terrier, Ella, live in the San Francisco Bay Area.

Roses Have Holistic Value for Dogs

[Updated August 9, 2017]

Gertrude Stein might have thought that a rose is a rose is a rose, but with over a hundred species and more than a thousand named cultivars, the genus Rosa has been among the world’s most appreciated plants for millennia. And they can be appreciated by dogs, too, with numerous applications for medical, emotional, and behavioral afflictions.

red rose

Roses grow, with and without thorns, as compact or miniature varieties, trailing vines, climbing plants over 20 feet tall, and impenetrable shrubs. Their flowers range from large to small in white, pink, yellow, orange, and every shade of red. Most roses are native to Asia, while some originated in Europe, Africa, or North America. Heirloom or traditional, hybrid tea, modern, and continuously blooming roses are just a few of the choices available to gardeners today. For medicinal purposes, traditional plants are the roses of choice, for many modern hybrids lack fragrance. 

Since 1985, the International Herb Association has announced its Herb of the Year during National Herb Week in May. The Herb of the Year is chosen for its aesthetic, medicinal, and/or culinary attributes. Although best known for its beauty, the rose – Herb of the Year for 2012 – has culinary and medicinal properties from which dogs as well as people benefit. There is even a dog rose! This large shrub, which grows to eight feet, is valued as rootstock for grafting hybrids and is frequently naturalized (grows wild) in North America. According to the famous herbalist Juliette de Bairacli Levy, Rosa canina received its common name because its root was a traditional treatment for rabies.

Rose Tea

The simplest herbal preparations are teas brewed from fresh or dried plant parts. Rose tea can be brewed as an infusion (steeped tea) from rose buds or petals. Simply pour 1 cup of almost-boiling water over 1 teaspoon dried or 1 tablespoon fresh organically grown rose buds or petals. Cover the container and let the tea steep for several minutes. Be sure your blossoms have a strong, pleasant rose fragrance. Skip lovely hybrids that have no scent along with pesticide-treated roses from florists.

To brew a quart of rose tea, place 11/2 teaspoons dried or 4 tablespoons fresh rose petals or buds in a 1-quart (4-cup) jar, fill with almost-boiling water, cover, and let stand. The longer it brews, the stronger the tea. To make a medicinal-strength tea, slightly increase the roses and let the tea steep until it has cooled to room temperature.

In their book All You Ever Wanted to Know About Herbs for Pets, Gregory Tilford and Mary Wulff explain that each part of the rose has a different level of astringency. “The flower petals are mildly to moderately astringent and can be made into a sweet-smelling rinse for animals with dry, itchy skin,” they say. “Petal tea is also useful for mild to moderate cases of colic and diarrhea or for minor irritations of the mouth and stomach.” The recommended dose is 1 tablespoon tea per 20 pounds of body weight as needed. Cool tea strained through a coffee filter can also be used as an anti-inflammatory eyewash, especially when dust or other environmental irritants cause redness or itching. To make the eyewash more comfortable, add a pinch of salt to give the tea a slightly saline taste, similar to human tears.

Cool or room-temperature rose tea is an effective treatment for minor wounds, such as cuts and abrasions. It can be poured directly onto skin to clean the affected area or applied as a spray.

Tilford and Wulff recommend brewing a decoction (simmered tea) from rose leaves, which are more astringent than flower petals, for use on inflamed flea or fly bites, contact dermatitis, or irritated skin. To brew a decoction, bring 2 tablespoons chopped leaves to a boil in a pint (2 cups) of water in a covered pan, simmer for 10 minutes, then remove from heat and let stand, still covered, until cool.

fresh roses

The leaf decoction can be used internally for acute digestive tract inflammations that may be secondary to bacterial or parasitic infections. “Internal use should be limited to acute disorders and short-term therapies (two days or less),” they caution. “Call your veterinarian immediately if internal bleeding is evident, diarrhea is persistent, or urination is labored.”

Either of these rose teas will keep for up to a week if refrigerated in a closed glass container.

Rose Vinegar

As described in the article “Sour Greats” (WDJ January 2012), herb-infused vinegar can be applied topically as an after-shampoo rinse, skin and coat treatment, ear cleaner, insect repellent, or pet deodorizer. To make a rose-infused vinegar, you will need:

-A clean glass jar or bottle with non-metallic lid.

-Enough fresh, organically grown rose petals to fill the container. (Freshly picked petals should be dry, not damp; let rose petals wilt in a dry, shady location for a day or two, which reduces moisture and increases their fragrance.)

-A sprig of flowering thyme and/or rosemary (optional).

-Apple cider vinegar.

Pack in as many rose petals as will fit into the jar or bottle, pressing them down with a wooden spoon or chopstick. Fill the container with vinegar, close the lid tightly, and turn the container upside down, which will release trapped air from the submerged rose petals. Top the container with more vinegar so that all of the plant material is completely covered. Leaving air in the jar invites mold growth, so check it every few days and add more vinegar as needed for four to six weeks.

Alternatively, purchase dried organic rose petals and add vinegar. Because dried herbs expand when rehydrated, fill the container only half full with loosely packed petals and let it stand overnight. The next day, top the container with vinegar and proceed as above.

After the vinegar has absorbed the fragrance and medicinal properties of the rose petals, it is ready to use and will keep for more than a year without refrigeration if stored away from heat and light.

If desired, strain the vinegar for storage in small bottles. Attach a label showing date and contents.

Rose vinegar can be applied full-strength or diluted with water for topical application. Rose vinegar has disinfecting properties and is an effective treatment for small wounds and itchy skin. To use as a coat conditioner, fill a plastic container with 1 cup warm or cool water, add 2 tablespoons (1 fluid ounce) rose vinegar, shake to mix, and work well into freshly rinsed hair. A plastic squeeze bottle or recycled shampoo bottle works well for this. Let the coat air-dry, blot with a towel, or rinse with plain water as desired. Because cider vinegar and red roses can stain or darken light hair, distilled white vinegar and white rose petals can be substituted for dogs with white or light coats.

Rose Aromatherapy for Dogs

Essential oils are distilled from plant parts, usually leaves or blossoms. Despite the “aroma” in “aromatherapy,” not every essential oil has an attractive fragrance, but in this category, rose is in a class by itself. Nearly all of the world’s rose oil is used in perfumes, but a small amount is sold to aromatherapists for medicinal use.

Rose essential oil is also expensive, for it takes 30 to 60 roses to produce a single drop of essential oil, or 500 pounds of rose petals to distill 1 pound (about 2 cups) of rose oil. “The terms rose otto, rose oil, and rose essential oil mean exactly the same thing,” says Marge Clark at Nature’s Gift, an aromatherapy supply company. “All are a true essential oil hydro-distilled from the petals of Rosa damascena. The best quality rose otto is grown and distilled in Bulgaria and Turkey. The Rosa damascena oils produced in other countries simply do not measure up.”

Rose absolute, which is known for its true rose fragrance, is extracted with solvents such as hexane, and supercritical carbon dioxide extraction produces rose oil under pressure at low temperatures. Some aromatherapy supply companies sell rose absolute and CO2-extracted rose oil to consumers, but they are less common than distilled rose oil.

rose hydrosol

Rose has long been associated with spirituality, and some claim that rose exhibits the highest vibration of any essential oil, giving it a special affinity with the heart and the emotional spheres of mind, body, and spirit.

According to Clark, rose is the ultimate woman’s oil. “It is calming and supportive,” she says. “In my experience nothing strengthens a woman’s spirit as well as true rose oil. Rose has no parallel in treating grief, hysteria, or depression. It is believed by many to help balance female hormones, regulate the menstrual cycle, and ease the discomforts of PMS and menopause. In Europe it is used to treat genito-urinary infections.”

In her book Holistic Aromatherapy for Animals, Kristen Leigh Bell writes, “Rose is also stabilizing to the central nervous system, making it a suitable addition to blends for fearful animals. The oil has a gentle tonifying effect on the skin, and I like to add a small amount to blends for itchy, irritated, or dry skin.”

Another benefit that rose oil shares with other rose-fragranced plants, such as rose geranium (Pelargonium graveolens) and palmarosa (Cymbopogon martini) is that ticks dislike its scent, making rose a natural tick repellent.

But because of its expense (Bulgarian rose otto costs up to $100 or more for 2 milliliters, slightly less than 1/2 teaspoon), you’re not likely to find pure, therapeutic-quality rose oil in your pet supply store.

This doesn’t mean that rose oil does not belong in your pet’s life. In fact, most aromatherapists rate it as “essential,” and Bell considers it one of her “top 20 must-have essential oils” for pets.

Fortunately, the oil is so concentrated that even a tiny amount, such as a single drop of rose oil in a fluid ounce (2 tablespoons) of carrier oil, will still have an effect. Most carrier oils used in aromatherapy are cold-pressed organic vegetable oils such as almond, peach kernel, or jojoba.

The general rule for canine use is to mix 1 teaspoon carrier oil with 3 to 5 drops essential oil; or 1 tablespoon (1/2 ounce) carrier oil with 10 to 15 drops essential oil. Use measuring spoons, not tableware, to measure carrier oils; use an eyedropper or an essential oil bottle’s built-in dispenser to measure drops.

Experiment to see what concentrations agree with your dog. Years ago while living in New York, I interviewed herbalist Barbara Hall about her experiments with ticks (which she removed from her cat!) and various herbs that were considered tick repellents. Of the herbs she tested, only rose geranium repelled the ticks, which turned somersaults to escape from it. At the time, Samantha, my Labrador Retriever, and her friend Hobbes, a Golden Retriever, were picking up deer and dog ticks almost every day on our walks in the woods.

Inspired, I tried rose geranium, palmarosa, and rose essential oils in separate experiments, placing a single drop on each dog’s scarf or collar and later diluting essential oils for spraying. All rose-scented applications reduced the tick attacks, but each required an adjustment period during which the dogs seemed to lose their sense of smell! For a day or two they would chase a tennis ball in tall grass and not be able to find it even when standing on top of it.

There was also no denying that Hobbes did not enjoy smelling like a rose, as he searched out green manure and deer droppings to roll in. (I switched to other methods for him.) It’s a good idea to start slowly with extremely diluted rose oil – or any rose-scented product – long before attending nose work, utility, or tracking sessions or trials.

Because essential oils are not water-soluble, diluting them in water requires an extra step. If you mix an essential oil with vodka or any other grain alcohol (do not use rubbing alcohol, which is distilled from wood), sulfated castor oil (available from some aromatherapy supply companies), or vegetable glycerin, you can add water and the oil will disperse.

dried rose hips

Bell combines these ingredients in several formulas, including her aromatic cleansing spray, which begins with a base of 1 teaspoon vegetable glycerin, 1 tablespoon vodka, 1 teaspoon sulfated castor oil, and 2 tablespoons aloe vera. Up to 16 drops essential oil can be mixed with this base before adding 6 ounces (3/4 cup) distilled or spring water. Her floral blend contains 4 drops lavender (Lavandula angustifolia), 2 drops ylang ylang (Cananga odorata), 4 drops rose (Rosa damascena), and 6 drops petitgrain (Citrus auranthum) essential oils. Or use rose oil by itself, starting with 4 to 8 drops and adding more as needed. Shake well before using.

Another way to dilute rose oil is in shampoo or liquid soap. Try adding 5 to 10 drops of rose oil to 8 ounces (1 cup) unscented natural shampoo, or add a drop to shampoo as you bathe your dog. Rinse well and follow, if desired, with a rose tea or rose vinegar final rinse.

For more on aromatherapy for dogs, see “Smell This, You’ll Feel Better,” WDJ December 2004 and “Essential Information,” WDJ January 2005.

Rose Oil Diffusers

One of the most efficient and cost-effective ways to use rose essential oil is in a diffuser. As Bell explains, “A nebulizing diffuser is one tool that no aromatherapy-prone home should be without. Especially one that houses pets!”

It’s true that the fragrance of an essential oil can be released by heat, such as from a light bulb or candle, but the chemical components of essential oils have differing volatility, so that some evaporate faster than others. The best way to disperse essential oils for therapeutic use, says Bell, is without heat, and diffusing is the safest way to use any full-strength oil.

A nebulizing diffuser consists of a glass bulb attached to a small air pump like those used in aquariums. A small air current and the pump’s vibration ionize complete particles of essential oil, releasing this suspension in the air. Rose essential oil or blends containing rose create a calming, uplifting environment, and they deodorize at the same time. Rose is highly recommended for dogs recovering from emotional trauma, illness, or injury. Setting the nebulizer on a timer releases essential oil throughout the day, which is especially helpful to dogs with separation anxiety.

To treat the air without the aid of a diffuser, fill a spray bottle with 4 to 6 ounces (1/2 to 3/4 cup) water and add 4 drops rose oil. Shake the bottle vigorously before spraying the air. Aim the spray away from furniture, pets, and people. Add a few more drops for a stronger fragrance if desired.

Hydrosols

Hydrosols or hydrolats, the flower waters produced during steam distillation, are far less expensive than essential oils. Organic rose hydrosol from Bulgaria costs less than $20 for 1/2 cup (4 fluid ounces).

Hydrosols are 20 to 30 times stronger than herbal teas brewed from the same plants, and they provide most of the benefits found in essential oils with fewer risks. Safety is crucial with regard to pets, which is why hydrosols are highly recommended for pet use.

The downside of using hydrosols is that they have a limited shelf life (typically one year), are not widely sold (the freshest, highest-quality hydrosols are usually from online or mail-order suppliers), and require refrigeration.

Rose hydrosol, better known as rosewater, may be unfamiliar to Americans today, but a hundred years ago, rosewater was widely sold for culinary and cosmetic uses. The first popular hand lotion was rosewater and glycerin (it’s still available), and rosewater adds a lovely flavor to desserts, confections, and traditional Middle Eastern foods.

In her book Hydrosols: The Next Aromatherapy, Suzanne Catty describes rose hydrosol as a powerful substance. “It smells exactly like a fresh rose,” she says. “Undiluted, the flavor is dramatic and overwhelming – far too strong – but in dilution, its intense floral nature becomes delicate, ethereal, and quite delicious. Once you have smelled and tasted real rose hydrosol, you will instantly recognize artificial rosewater.”

Rosewater is more stable than most hydrosols, she reports, with a shelf life of two years or more, though this depends on its quality. “Rose hydrosol made from dried petals starts to lose its fragrance at around 10 to 12 months,” she says, “and the flavor is less intense from the outset.”

Rose hydrosol can be sprayed full-strength on a dog’s wet coat and then brushed or massaged in; diluted with an equal part of water, or more, before being sprayed or applied to the coat; or simply sprayed or applied as a tick repellent. “Its moisture-retaining nature makes it a good choice for the traveler,” says Catty, “and its mild antiseptic and cooling properties make it useful for many first-aid applications.”

For more about hydrosols, see “Canines in a Mist,” WDJ April 2005.

Rose Hips

Rose hips, the reddish, round berries that develop after rose petals fall from their stems in late summer, are a significant source of vitamin C. They also contain vitamins A and B, essential fatty acids, and antioxidants such as lycopene. Many dogs love the taste of fresh rose hips and harvest them from rose bushes themselves.

Dried rose hips can be ground in a coffee grinder and added at the rate of 1/2 to 1 teaspoon powdered rose hips per cup of food. Too much can cause stomach upset or diarrhea, so start with a small amount and increase gradually, or simply cut back if your dog develops symptoms.

rose hip seed oil

If you have access to rose hips from a safe (not pesticide-treated) source, you can cut them in half and spread them on a rack or paper-lined cookie sheet to dry, or thread a needle with white cotton thread and string the rose hips with spaces between them to hasten drying. When the hips are completely dry, unstring them, cut them in half, and toss any that have mold inside or out.

Thanks to Danish farmer Erik Hansen, who discovered 20 years ago that rose hips alleviated his joint pain, rose hip powder has become a popular supplement in Europe for the treatment of arthritis. So far seven scientific studies of over 300 participants have been published in the medical literature, four of which are randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled clinical trials. Participants receiving rose hips reported improved joint comfort and flexibility, higher energy levels, and an improved sense of well being.

Hansen’s products (LitoZin® and i-flex®) are made from the hips of organically raised Rosa canina. Rose hip powder has not been clinically tested in dogs, but many users report giving it to their arthritic canine companions with excellent results. Rose hip seed powder is available from a growing number of supplement manufacturers.

Rose Hip Seed Oil

Pressed from the seeds of rose hips, usually Rosa moschata or Rosa rubiginosa from the Andes Mountains, rose hip seed oil contains vitamins and essential fatty acids whose skin-healing properties make it a popular cosmetic ingredient. Rose hip seed oil, which is sold in most natural food stores, speeds the healing of dermatitis, burns, and scars, and it is an effective treatment for dry, brittle, damaged hair and nails. Rose hip seed oil is light yellow to orange in color, and it can stain clothing or light-colored hair, though it is so quickly absorbed by the skin that precise application to scars or wounds is unlikely to damage white or light-colored coats. The oil is so delicate that it should be kept refrigerated in a closed container, protected from exposure to heat, light, and air.

Although used by Chile’s native people for centuries, rose hip seed oil has been available in the U.S. for just a few decades. In 1983, researchers at the University of Santiago in Chile tested rose hip seed oil on 180 people with extensive facial scarring, acne scarring, deep wrinkles, sun damage, radiation damage, burn scars, surgical scars, premature aging, dermatitis, and other skin-related problems.

In these tests, rose hip seed oil regenerated the skin, reduced scars and wrinkles, prevented the advancement of wrinkles and aging, and helped skin regain its natural color and tone. Subsequent research at other universities verified these results, and rose hip seed oil is now a popular ingredient in products that treat premature aging and sun damage.

How can it help your dog? Because rose hip seed oil speeds the healing of damaged tissue, it can be applied directly to new or old scars, wounds, abrasions, and nails that break or split. But its most widespread canine application is as a coat conditioner, for rose hip seed oil helps strengthen and repair damaged hair. To use it full-strength, simply apply rose hip seed oil to your hands, rub your palms together to create a light layer of oil, and stroke your dog’s coat in all directions. Try this while the coat is still damp after bathing or swimming to distribute the oil more evenly. 

Another way to take advantage of rose hip seed oil’s coat-improving attributes is to add it to your favorite oil or conditioner. For example, argan oil, pressed from the seeds of the Middle Eastern plant Argania spinosa and better known as Moroccan oil, has become a popular human hair treatment. Rose hip seed oil can be blended with argan oil and applied to towel-dried hair for soft, shiny results. Rose hip seed oil can be added to most leave-on conditioners with excellent results. Start with a 5- to 10-percent addition and experiment. Diluted rose hip seed oil should be safe for use on even white or light-colored dogs.

Rose hip seed oil can be added to rose vinegar or rose hydrosol in a spray container, shaken immediately before use, and sprayed onto the dog’s coat. The oil and water will separate, but spraying delivers both ingredients, which can be worked or brushed into the coat.

Rose flower essence

Rose hip seed oil is well tolerated and safe for sensitive skin. It is considered a “dry” oil, meaning that it soaks into the skin easily, and does not leave a greasy residue. It penetrates dry or damaged skin immediately. Rose hip seed oil is sold in ball-point vials (for human skin application) in natural food markets.

Rose Flower Essence

Flower essences, also called flower remedies, are very different from herbal teas and extracts. Like homeopathic remedies, they contain little or none of the material used to produce them. Instead, they store a plant’s “vibration” or “imprint,” which in turn affects the user’s energy. These vibrations or imprints are said to act directly on the emotions. Flower essences have no floral fragrance.

Flower essences made from roses are said to support and protect the heart from emotional pain and trauma, to foster resilience and endurance, and to help ground the individual, calm the mind, and deepen one’s spiritual vision. Rose flower essences have helped dogs adapt to changes in residence, environment, or family structure; overcome separation anxiety; regain enthusiasm for life’s adventures; and relax in stressful situations, such as when being groomed, visiting the veterinarian, meeting new dogs, attending obedience class, or living in a shelter or foster home.

Like all flower remedies, rose flower essence can be applied directly from the stock bottle, a drop or two at a time, directly into the dog’s mouth, massaged into the gums, applied to the nose or paw pads, or applied to bare skin on the abdomen or ears. Alternatively, place 12 drops rose flower essence in a 4-ounce spray bottle filled with distilled or filtered water. Spray the solution into the air, on the dog’s bedding, and all over the dog, including on her gums, paw pads, nose, and abdomen, and inside the ears as well as on the coat before brushing or rubbing it in. Flower essences can also be placed on dog treats and added to food and water.

The key to success with flower essences is frequency of application, as often as once an hour if possible, or at least four or five times per day. For more about flower essences, see “More Good Energy,” WDJ November 2007.

Grow Your Own!

If you’d like to have your own source of pesticide-free roses and rose hips, try growing your own. Roses need at least six hours of direct sunlight daily, minimal root competition from nearby trees, a soil pH of approximately 6.5, good air circulation, and deeply dug soil containing ample organic matter.

Garden centers, organizations devoted to roses, and books like the IHA’s Rose (Rosa): Herb of the Year 2012 offer tips on growing, fertilizing, pruning, and care.

CJ Puotinen lives in Montana. She is the author of The Encyclopedia of Natural Pet Care and other books and a frequent contributor to WDJ.

How to Make Homemade Dog Food

homemade dog food

HOMEMADE DOG FOOD: OVERVIEW

1. Feed your dog a wide variety of foods from different food groups.

2. Make sure you supplement your dog’s homemade diet with calcium unless you feed raw meaty bones.

3. Stick to lean meats and remove skin from the poultry you feed unless your dog is highly active.

4. Keep in mind that the less variety of foods you feed, the more important supplements become.

5. Review your homemade dog food diet plan with a veterinarian for approval.


In the past few issues of Whole Dog Journal, I have offered critiques on homemade dog food diets in order to address the dog’s health concerns – or simply to optimize the dog’s diet plan. To do this, I analyzed the cooked and raw homemade dog food diets and compared them to the National Research Council’s guidelines for canine nutrition. I want to be clear, though: I don’t believe this is a requirement for feeding home-cooked dog food. Just as with the diet you feed yourself and your family, feeding a wide variety of healthy foods in appropriate proportions should meet the needs of most healthy dogs. The best diet for dogs, in effect, is a diverse diet.

Problems arise with how healthy dog food is interpreted. Too often, people think that they’re feeding healthy homemade dog food, when key ingredients may be missing or are fed in excess. Here’s how to make dog food at home, and specific guidelines to help ensure that the dog food diet you feed meets your individual dog’s requirements. You do not want just one dog food recipe to follow – you need several, and need to be comfortable mixing and matching ingredients, for reasons explained below.

Complete and Balanced Dog Food Diets

It’s important homemade dog food is “complete and balanced,” meaning it meets all of the dog’s nutritional needs. It is not important, however, that every meal be complete and balanced, unless you feed the same meal every day with little or no variation.

Home-prepared dog diets that include a wide variety of foods fed at different meals rely on balance over time, not at every meal. Similar to the way humans eat, as long as your dog gets everything he needs spread out over each week or two, his diet will be complete and balanced.

Making Homemade Dog Food

A human nutritionist would never expect someone to follow a single recipe with no variation, as veterinary nutritionists routinely do. Instead, a human would be given guidelines in terms of food groups and portion sizes. As long as your dog doesn’t have a health problem that requires a very specific diet, homemade dog food should be the same way.

For more on homemade dog treats, see “DIY Gifts for Dogs: Homemade Dog Treats & Healthy Recipes.”

Keep in mind that puppies are more susceptible to problems caused by nutritional deficiencies or excesses than adult dogs are. Large-breed puppies are particularly at risk from too much calcium prior to puberty. See “Puppy Food: Nutritional Guidelines to Maximize Health,” for more on puppy nutrition.

GUIDELINES TO CREATING BALANCED HOMEMADE DOG FOOD RECIPES

Following are guidelines for feeding a raw or cooked home-prepared diet to healthy dogs. No single type of food, such as chicken, should ever make up more than half the diet.

Except where specified, homemade food for dogs can be fed either raw or cooked. Leftovers from your table can be included as long as they’re foods you would eat yourself, not fatty scraps.

Meat and Other Animal Products: Should always make up at least half of the diet. A raw diet for dogs can be excessively high in fat, which can lead to obesity. Another potential hazard of diets containing too much fat: If an owner restricts the amount fed (in order to control the dog’s weight) too much, the dog may suffer deficiencies of other required nutrients.

Unless your dog gets regular, intense exercise, use lean meats (no more than 10 percent fat), remove skin from poultry, and cut off separable fat. It’s better to feed dark meat poultry than breast, however, unless your dog requires a very low-fat diet.

Raw Meaty Bones (optional): If you choose to feed them, RMBs should make up one third to one half of the total diet. Use the lower end of the range if you feed bony parts such as chicken necks and backs, but you can feed more if you’re using primarily meatier parts such as chicken thighs. Never feed cooked bones. Read a full report on raw meaty bones here.

Boneless Meat: Include both poultry and red meat. Heart is a good choice, as it is lean and often less expensive than other muscle meats.

Fish: Provides vitamin D, which otherwise should be supplemented. Canned fish with bones, such as sardines (packed in water, not oil), jack mackerel, and pink salmon, are good choices. Remove bones from fish you cook yourself, and never feed raw Pacific salmon, trout, or related species. You can feed small amounts of fish daily, or larger amounts once or twice a week. The total amount should be about one ounce of fish per pound of other meats (including RMBs).

Organs: Liver should make up roughly 5 percent of this category, or about one ounce of liver per pound of other animal products. Beef liver is especially nutritious, but include chicken or other types of liver at least occasionally as well. Feeding small amounts of liver daily or every other day is preferable to feeding larger amounts less often.

A selection of ingredients being mixed into homemade dog food.

Eggs: Highly nutritious addition to any diet. Dogs weighing about 20 pounds can have a whole egg every day, but give less to smaller dogs.

Dairy: Plain yogurt and kefir are well tolerated by most dogs (try goat’s milk products if you see problems). Cottage and ricotta cheese are also good options. Limit other forms of cheese, as most are high in fat.

Fruits and Vegetables: While not a significant part of the evolutionary diet of the dog and wolf, fruits and vegetables provide fiber that supports digestive health, as well as antioxidants and other beneficial nutrients that contribute to health and longevity. Deeply colored vegetables and fruits are the most nutritious.

Starchy Vegetables: Veggies such as potatoes, sweet potatoes, and winter squashes (including pumpkin), as well as legumes (beans), provide carbohydrate calories that can be helpful in reducing food costs and keeping weight on skinny and very active dogs. Quantities should be limited for overweight dogs. Starchy foods must be cooked in order to be digestible.

Leafy Green and Other Non-Starchy Vegetables: These are low in calories and can be fed in any quantity desired. Too much can cause gas, and raw, cruciferous veggies such as broccoli and cauliflower can suppress thyroid function (cook them if you feed large amounts). Raw vegetables must be pureed in a food processor, blender, or juicer in order to be digested properly by dogs, though whole raw veggies are not harmful and can be used as treats.

And while you’re preparing these nutritious foods for your dog, consider boosting your own health by adding more veggies to your diet too!

Fruits: Bananas, apples, berries, melon, and papaya are good choices. Avoid grapes and raisins, which can cause kidney failure in dogs.

Grains: Controversial, as they may contribute to inflammation caused by allergies, arthritis, or inflammatory bowel disease (IBD); as well as seizures and other problems (it’s not clear whether starchy vegetables do the same). Some grains contain gluten that may cause digestive problems for certain dogs. Many dogs do fine with grains, however, and they can be used to reduce the overall cost of feeding a homemade diet.

Grains and starchy veggies should make up no more than half the diet. Good choices include oatmeal, brown rice, quinoa, barley, and pasta. White rice can be used to settle an upset stomach, particularly if overcooked with extra water, but it’s low in nutrition and should not make up a large part of the diet. All grains must be well cooked.

DIETARY SUPPLEMENTS FOR HOME-FED DOGS

Some supplements are required in addition to natural food for dogs. Others may be needed if you are not able to feed a variety of foods, or if you leave out one or more of the food groups above. In addition, the longer food is cooked or frozen, the more nutrients are lost. Here are some dog supplements to consider:

Calcium

Unless you feed RMBs, all homemade diets must be supplemented with calcium. The amount found in multivitamin and mineral supplements is not enough. Give 800 to 1,000 mg calcium per pound of food (excluding non-starchy vegetables). You can use any form of plain calcium, including eggshells ground to powder in a clean coffee grinder (1/2 teaspoon eggshell powder provides about 1,000 mg calcium). Animal Essentials‘ Seaweed Calcium provides additional minerals, as well. And here is a good list of calcium-rich foods your dog may like. Just please note this list is for humans and includes orange juice, which is not a good thing to give your dog as the acidity can cause stomach upset.

Oils

Most homemade diets require added oils for fat, calories, and to supply particular nutrients. It’s important to use the right types of oils, as each supplies different nutrients.

Fish Oil: Fish oil for dogs provides EPA and DHA, omega-3 fatty acids that help to regulate the immune system and reduce inflammation. Give an amount that provides about 300 mg EPA and DHA combined per 20 to 30 pounds of body weight on days you don’t feed fish. Note that liquid fish oil supplements often tell you to give much more than this, which can result in too many calories from fat.

Cod Liver Oil: Provides vitamins A and D as well as EPA and DHA. If you don’t feed much fish, give cod liver oil in an amount that provides about 400 IUs vitamin D daily for a 100-pound dog (proportionately less for smaller dogs). Can be combined with other fish oil to increase the amount of EPA and DHA if desired.

Plant Oils: If you don’t feed much poultry fat, found in dark meat and skin, linoleic acid, an essential omega-6 fatty acid, may be insufficient. You can use walnut, hempseed, corn, vegetable (soybean), or high-linoleic safflower oil to supply linoleic acid if needed. Add about one teaspoon of oil per pound of meat and other animal products, or twice that amount if using canola or sunflower oil. Olive oil and high-oleic safflower oil are low in omega-6 and cannot be used as a substitute, although small amounts can be added to supply fat if needed. Coconut oil provides mostly saturated fats, and can be used in addition to but not as a replacement for other oils.

Other Vitamins and Minerals

In addition to vitamin D discussed above, certain vitamins and minerals may be short in some homemade diets, particularly those that don’t include organ meats or vegetables. The more limited the diet that you feed, the more important supplements become, but even highly varied diets are likely to be light in a few areas.

Vitamin E: All homemade diets I’ve analyzed have been short on vitamin E, and the need for vitamin E increases when you supplement with oils. Too much vitamin E, however, may be counterproductive. Give 1 to 2 IUs per pound of body weight daily.

Iodine: Too much or too little iodine can suppress thyroid function, and it’s hard to know how much is in the diet. A 50-pound dog needs about 300 mcg (micrograms) of iodine daily. Kelp is high in iodine, though the amount varies considerably among supplements.

Multivitamin and mineral supplements: A multivitamin and mineral supplement will help to meet most requirements, including iodine and vitamins D and E, but it’s important not to over supplement minerals. If using the one-a-day type of human supplements, such as Centrum for Adults under 50, give one per 40 to 50 pounds of body weight daily. Note that most supplements made for dogs provide a reasonable amount of vitamins but are low in minerals, and so won’t make up for deficiencies in the diet. Be cautious with small dogs; I’ve seen some supplements that recommend the same dosage for 10-pound dogs as for those weighing 50 or even 100 pounds. In those cases, the dosage is usually too high for the small dogs and should be reduced. Products made for humans are also inappropriate for small dogs.

Green Blends: Often containing alfalfa and various herbs, green blends may be especially helpful if you don’t include many green vegetables in your dog’s diet. You can also use a pre-mix that includes alfalfa and vegetables, such as The Honest Kitchen‘s Preference. Note most pre-mixes also supply calcium, so you should reduce or eliminate calcium supplements, depending on how much of the pre-mix you use.


Mary Straus is the owner of DogAware.com. Contact her via her website if you would like to submit a diet to be critiqued.

One of My Proudest Accomplishments

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If I had to pick which training accomplishment I am most proud of with my dog Otto, I’d have to consider a few. He’s got a rock-solid, enthusiastic recall that I love. When we’re out on the trail and he sees a duck and ducklings on the shore of the river, say, or hears a deer crashing through the brush away from us, this recall — combined with a strong “Off!” (a.k.a. “Leave it!”) – never fails to bring admiration from my walking partners. (And because I reward him so richly for this, with a veritable avalanche of tasty treats, it stays nice and strong.)

But perhaps the most useful for walking in my semi-rural town is his ability to “look at me” when we are walking down the sidewalk and there is a dog (or several dogs) going berserk on the other side of a fence as we walk by. This is an extremely stressful thing for a dog to do – to completely ignore some very dramatic behavior from fellow dogs – and it does make him nervous. His pace speeds up, he’ll whine a bit, and he’ll lick his lips and flick his tongue in distress.

However, he knows what to do to make it less nerve-wracking: look at me. If he turns toward me, I allow him to walk or trot faster – heck, I want to get out of there, too! – and I speed-feed him treats as we hustle on out of there. I also praise him in a calm and happy voice, “Goood boy, Otto. What a good boy!” I make sure not to make it squeaky, scared-sounding, or fast and frantic.

When I first got Otto, four-plus years ago, I wouldn’t even attempt such a thing. If there was a dog going nuts in a yard as we approached (or I was previously aware of a lurker who would burst out as we passed), we’d veer out into the street or even turn and avoid that block as we practiced. It was an overly high-stress exercise for him when he was younger. But as he has gained confidence in both the behavior and in me, he’s gotten even a little cocky about it. Not long ago he surprised me: As we walked along, with Otto looking at me and eating the treats I was steadily feeding into his mouth as a dog on the other side of the fence going crazy with barking, snarling, and throwing himself against the fence, Otto suddenly stopped, and – still looking at me – lifted his leg and peed against the fence, pretty much right in the berserk dog’s face. Oh snap! That dog was dissed! And as rude as it was, I was still proud.

Dog Training Questions Answered by the Experts!

We can’t possibly answer every question we receive about dog training or behavior. But we’ll try to answer some of the questions sent to us by subscribers, some of the time. The following are a few letters regarding issues that are common to many dogs and dog owners. If you’d like to submit a question about dog training or behavior, send it to WDJEditor@gmail.com.

I love Whole Dog Journal and have implemented many of your techniques and suggestions with our dog, Izzy. I hope that you may be able to further help us with her issue.

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Izzy is a wonderful 31/2-year-old Australian Shepherd/Border Collie-mix. She’s super smart and well-trained, with lots of energy and a constant need for learning and exercise. In the last couple years, however, her aggressive moments have gotten to be a problem (I’m guessing it’s a protective instinct). She barks (like a yell) and confronts people in the following situations, ranked from most common to least:

1. Knock at the door of our house.

2. Someone gets close to our car (while parked).

3. If someone tries to pet her if she’s tied up (outside a store for instance, but we don’t do this at all anymore).

4. If someone appears after there has  been an absence of other humans (at night or on a trail with few people).

I would chalk it up to the breed, protecting her herd (us), but I also need to do something about it.

We have started to ask her to “go to bed” when someone is at the door. It helps, but once she’s released she goes straight for the guest, barking and air-nipping (no contact) if they turn around. It’s embarrassing and uncomfortable; you don’t want to yell at your dog when friends come over and you also want to greet them face-to-face!
– Alan Stuart, Los Angeles

Pat Miller responds:

You are right to be concerned about Izzy’s behavior, especially the nipping at people. In these days of heightened sensitivity to canine behavior, it doesn’t take much for a dog to be designated as “potentially dangerous” or “dangerous” by your local animal control agency.

In some jurisdictions, a person must merely feel threatened in order for a dog to receive the unhappy label – which greatly restricts your freedom as a dog owner to take your canine family member places and do things with her. And that’s not to mention the impact it may have on your homeowner’s insurance, and your liability, if she should actually bite someone or otherwise cause injury.

What happens if someone injures himself when attempting to avoid a dog they feel threatened by? That, too, can earn your dog the unwanted title, even if she never even came close to biting anyone. Heaven knows some people feel threatened by even the most harmless of dogs who are doing absolutely nothing that comes close to being threatening, so that leaves the door pretty wide open.

Herding breeds are ultra-conscious of space, and are usually type-A workaholic control-freaks. I’m guessing Izzy’s behavior is less protective and more defensive, especially given that she snaps while tied up outside a store (who is she protecting there?). It’s not a good idea to tie a dog up in public and leave them unattended anyway – as you’ve discovered. They are trapped, very vulnerable in that situation, and quite likely to bite. Also, dogs who are engaging in protection aggression don’t usually wait for the potential victims to turn their backs – that’s more often the behavior of a dog who is defensively aggressive and lacks the confidence to confront a threat face-to-face – or simply one who is engaging in herding behavior.

Photo by Alan Stuart

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The first thing I’d suggest is a complete veterinary workup, including a full thyroid panel, with a blood sample sent to Dr. Jean Dodds’ lab in California. (For more information about Dr. Dodds’ lab, see hemopet.org or call the Hemopet office at 714-891-2022. For more information about the link between thyroid levels and aggression, see “Help for Hypothyroidism,” WDJ June 2005, and in the next issue of WDJ.) You want to rule out – or treat – any medical issues that may contribute to her aggression. With a clean bill of health in Izzy’s file, here are my suggestions:

1. Keep doing the “go to your bed” exercise when people come to the door, but don’t release her from the bed when visitors enter. Rather, walk over to her, clip on a leash, and use the occasion to do some counter-conditioning and desensitization (CC&D). (See “Trials of the Timid,” August 2008, for more about this exercise.) Turn this into a party! Invite a dog-friendly friend or two for wine,  appetizers, and CC&D! If they are especially cooperative, you can ask them to leave, take a walk around the block, and then knock on the door and come in again as if they had not been there earlier.

When you want to stop the counter-conditioning, put Izzy away so you and your guests can relax, and so she won’t have the opportunity to practice her inappropriate behavior.

2. Have her crated in the car, and cover the crate when you leave her parked (cool weather only, I presume!). Again, she likely feels trapped in the car, and people peering into car windows are pretty threatening and intrusive, from the dog’s perspective. Or – leave her at home. Protect her, so she doesn’t feel the need to defend herself.

3. Use a leash or long line when hiking on trails frequented by other people, until you perfect her recall. It’s not fair to subject unsuspecting hikers to a canine confrontation, and you don’t want to be on the receiving end of that dangerous dog designation!

4. Utilize a variety of management and training suggestions to help Izzy gain confidence, such as asking her for an incompatible behavior (something she loves to do). When you see her gearing up to bark, for example, engage her in a favored activity, which will also change her emotional state (she can’t be happy about doing her favorite thing and fearful of or angry at a passerby at the same time.) “Find it!” – tossing a high-value treat on the ground and cueing her to look for it – is one of many possible incompatible behaviors.

5. Consider teaching an “emergency down” and try that to stop her forward movement in a crisis rather than calling her back to you. Many dogs (especially herding dogs) find it easier to “down-stay” than turn around and come back to you. Once her motion is stopped, you can go get her, or perhaps then call her to you.

One of the primary reasons that behaviors such as Izzy’s frequently escalate as the dog matures is that they work. Izzy wants to keep people away (or make them go away), and ferocious barking does that. Izzy’s barking behavior is reinforced by the result (people go away/leave her alone) and behaviors that are reinforced increase. If the above suggestions don’t help, then I urge you to find a nearby training and behavior professional who is committed to positive reinforcement methods to help you manage and modify Izzy’s behavior.

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A few years ago I attended one of Pat Miller’s seminars on behavior here in the Twin Cities. I particularly enjoyed the lengthy section on interpreting behavioral cues. I pay a lot more attention now to the finer details, not only in my own dogs, but in things that I see on the Internet. There is a video making the rounds of dog owners that I find intriguing (tinyurl.com/appeasinghusky).

Basically, there is a Husky riding in the front seat of a car (doubtful wisdom of that to begin with) who keeps putting her paw out for the owner to hold. Aw! What intrigues me more than the probably learned behavior itself is the deeper behavioral clues the dog displays. Her ears are back and frequent yawning is present, suggesting stress (which a lot of the commenters on the video have keyed in on); but her facial muscles are completely relaxed as best I can tell, her body seems loose, and the dog doesn’t seem to be trying to avoid the situation. No doubt, there is some anxiety at work here, but I have a reason for finding the video particularly intriguing.

I have a male Husky who exhibits the same sort of behavioral signals (ears back, lots of yawning, submissive paw out) when in totally non-stressful situations,  like sitting comfortably at home.

With the lack of any other symptoms of stress, I’ve always just chalked up the yawning to part of a general submissive posture for him (he yawns a lot in a variety of situations), and the overall package of behaviors as “I am perfectly happy for you to keep right on scratching my chest just like you are doing now; don’t stop please.” (The paw out is usually done almost as a “A little lower, please!” or “Why did you stop?” behavior.) But I admit the ears back and yawning has always kind of puzzled me. (He is an exceptionally soft and biddable boy for the breed. His foster sister is a pushy, spazzy little spitfire, which is more typical.)
– J. Eddy, Saint Paul, MN

Pat Miller responds:

Thanks for this interesting video. While the yawning and lip-licking displayed by the Husky in the video are commonly perceived as stress signals, they sometimes are – and they sometimes aren’t. Dogs sometimes yawn because they are tired, and sometimes lick their lips because the last treat tasted good and the flavor still lingers. And while a paw-lift is considered an appeasement gesture, the pawing motion demonstrated in the video is more of an attention-seeking (Hey! Pet me!) or demand behavior – a sort of canine equivalent of a “keep going signal.”

That said, I believe the Husky in the video does look somewhat stressed, and the pawing is attention-seeking, because the dog finds it reassuring and stress-relieving for the owner to touch her (hold her paw). Maybe she is stressed because she knows how unsafe it is to have a dog in the car and not crated or wearing a canine seat belt! That was tongue-in-cheek; of course the dog doesn’t know how dangerous it is be loose in the car, especially in the front seat. But the human should know!

In the case you describe of your dog offering what appear to be stress signals in totally non-stress situations, here’s one possible explanation:

Your dog has simply learned, as you suggest, that these behaviors work to get your attention and the desired human behavior of “Scratch my chest, thank you!” Dogs, like humans, are capable of engaging in superstitious behavior. His pawing is the behavior that most likely gets your attention and cues the desired scratching, but his mind may have linked the yawning and flattened ears into the chain of behaviors he believes may be necessary to make the scratching happen.

Appeasement gestures don’t necessarily indicate stress. They are simply one dog’s way of communicating a message of “I’m not challenging you” to another being. You describe your dog as being generally soft and appeasing, so the “ears back” appeasement signal probably happens a lot for him. Yawning, however, is usually not classified as an appeasement gesture.

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It could be that he yawns a lot because his yawning has been unconsciously reinforced by you when you think he might be stressed: “Hey, fella, what’s wrong?” Behaviors that are reinforced repeat/increase!

I wonder if you all have heard of SimpleLEASH, which is being marketed as a solution for dogs who pull on leash? Someone from my trainer’s group gave us a heads-up about this. I’m writing about it in my newsletter to alert my clients about it. I could see the average dog owner being very enthused about something like this, as leash pulling is a very common problem, but without thinking about the full consequences. 
– Shannon Finch, AnimalKind Training, Seattle

Pat Miller responds:

I had not heard of the SimpleLEASH until you sent this letter and the link to its website (simpleleash.com). Thank you for bringing it to our attention.

I must say, I am saddened and appalled. Though the company tries to mask the truth with reassuring language, this is, plain and simple, a collar that delivers a shock to the dog when he pulls on the leash. Note that nowhere on the website is it called a shock collar. Instead, the text compares the beep of the leash and the resulting “harmless correction stimulus” to the beep that predicted to Pavlov’s dog that food was arriving. How disingenuous! True, both scenarios employ classical conditioning, but Pavlov’s dogs were getting a positive classical association with the beep – “Yay, food is coming!” – while the shock of the SimpleLEASH creates a very negative classical association – “Yikes, I am about to be hurt.”

The really sad part is that the website also says this: “Here at the SimpleLEASH company we firmly believe in positive reinforcement training.” The simple fact is this: No one who truly believes in positive reinforcement training would ever consider using – much less marketing – a collar-and-leash that shocks a dog simply for pulling.

The company claims that training can be as short as a few minutes. I don’t doubt that. A shock is a highly aversive stimulus, and one that is capable of shutting down a dog’s behavior quite rapidly. It can also deliver a whole lot of negative side effects, not the least of which is aggression.

In the case of this shock-leash, the harder the dog pulls, the greater the intensity of the shock – and the greater the likelihood of significant negative side effects. Imagine the 100-pound dog who spots another dog, takes off full-speed to offer a friendly greeting, and hits the end of the leash with his full weight. The strong shock that he receives has the very real potential for instantly causing this dog to be aggressive toward other dogs through this incredibly unfortunate one-time learning experience. Repeat that experience for him a few more times, and his negative association with other dogs becomes quite strong.

People often fall for the “he only hears the beep” reassurance by shock collar advocates. But if you follow the Pavlov comparison, the whole point of classical conditioning is that the stimulus that was originally neutral (in this case, the beep) takes on the same meaning as the stimulus that follows – the shock. Pavlov’s dogs salivated when they heard the bell because to their brains it was as if food was delivered. A dog stops pulling when he hears the beep because it’s the same as if he just got shocked.

A dog can be traumatized, shut down completely, and/or become aggressive if he associates the shock or the beep that predicts the shock with some other stimulus that happens to be in the environment at the same time – such as the dog or child he was pulling toward. He may also become traumatized and shut down when he hears the beep of other electronics, such as a microwave oven, or a wristwatch alarm, because they sound like the shock collar beep.

We make no bones about our opposition to the use of electric shock when training dogs for any purpose. (See “Simply Shocking,” February 2003 and “Shock or Awe?” February 2006). A walk on leash is the best part of the day for many dogs. How tragic to ruin it for the dog by shocking him.

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I appreciated Pat Miller’s article on leash reactivity (“Mean on Leash?” May 2012). I have taken one of my dogs through a “Reactive Rover” class, which helped me learn techniques for managing the situation (playing “look at that,” for example). Mister Whiskers is now fine when I walk him by himself, but when my female dog, Sooner, is along, they both become reactive (even though the female is not reactive when by herself). It doesn’t matter if each dog has his or her own person or I am walking both dogs. What are some of the reasons for this behavior, and what are some solutions? 
–Pat Emmerson, Portland, Oregon

Pat Miller responds:

Reactive dogs can be a real challenge. I know (I have one), and I give three Reactive Rover workshops every year. Mister Whiskers is probably more stressed and/or aroused by the presence of Sooner. That’s why he now reacts in situations he has learned to cope with when Sooner is absent. Sooner then reacts in response to MW’s reactive behavior; they feed off each other’s energy and signals. Basically, Sooner’s presence “changes the picture” for MW, and the methods you learned to help him control his tendency to become over aroused don’t generalize to the new picture (with Sooner present).

The best solution is to do practice “set-ups” – the kind of training you already did in your Reactive Rover class – but with both dogs present and a second handler for the second dog.

You’ll need the assistance of a third, “neutral” dog. Keep this dog at a good below-threshold distance at first, so you can succeed in generalizing your “Look at that” behaviors with MW with Sooner present. As MW succeeds, gradually decrease the distance between your dogs and the neutral dog. Then, help MW generalize even more by bringing in other neutral dogs.

If Sooner continues to be reactive even when MW is not, you’ll need to do the same procedures with her that you did with MW. Perhaps you can sign them up to take a Reactive Rover class together!

You might also consider using one or more stress-reducing tools, such as Comfort Zone (available in pet supply stores and on-line), the Thundershirt (from thundershirt.com, or by calling 866-892-2078), or the Calming Cap (now available from the Thundershirt people).

With luck, eventually you will get to the place where you can walk both dogs yourself. For now, you definitely need two handlers when walking both dogs together. Ideally, you’ll want to avoid walking both dogs and encountering reactivity-causing stimuli, until you have had the opportunity to resolve this in controlled set-ups.

I know that can be easier said than done, especially if your time is limited, and reactivity-causing stimuli abound. Good luck with your dogs!

Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA, CDBC, is WDJ’s Training Editor. She lives in Fairplay, Maryland, site of her Peaceable Paws training center, where she offers dog training classes and courses for trainers. Pat is also author of many books on positive training, including her newest, Do Over Dogs: Give Your Dog a Second Chance at a First-Class Life.

Tea Time

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A bout 12 years ago, my aged Border Collie, Rupert, developed a serious cardiac condition: ventricular tachycardia. The cost of the diagnostics and treatment was expensive, but less than half the price at the vet school at the University of California, Davis, than it was at the office of my local veterinary cardiologist, so Rupe and I made the three-hour (round-trip) drive from our house in the San Francisco Bay Area as often as we needed.

Nancy Kerns

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I lost track of the number of trips we took. The goal was to stabilize Rupie’s heart rate through the use of a medication. The veterinary cardiologist started Rupe off on a high dose, which controlled the tachycardia. But when we tried to reduce the dose in stages, the accelerated heart rate would return. Each time we changed the dosage, we’d wait a few days and then return for an ECG.

Eventually we got Rupie stabilized on a combination of the medication prescribed by the cardiologists – and the hawthorn tea I brewed for Rupert daily on the advice of my holistic vet. The cardiologists probably thought I was crazy, but when I stopped the tea (and the medication amount was stable), the tachycardia returned. I put him back on the tea, and the tachycardia stopped. There were two cardiologists who saw Rupert at UCD; neither one was interested in or opposed to the tea. Their attitude was sort of, “Whatever makes you feel better.”

Well, it did make me feel better (and I think it played an important role in stabilizing his heart rate, too). Every morning, I poured near-boiling water over a few teaspoons of dry hawthorn berries and let the teas steep until cool. Then I strained the berries out and poured the tea over Rupert’s food. It had a mild flavor that he didn’t mind a bit.

The tea-brewing became part of my family’s routine. I started choosing black tea over coffee. Then my son started asking for tea in the morning, too; he liked sweet slippery elm tea, which soothes sore throats. My step-daughter Katherine came to stay with us for the summer, and while she never developed a tea habit herself, she was amused by the ritual brewing of tea for the dog, me, and Eli.

One day, the four of us took a trip to UCD for one of Rupert’s checkups; I bribed Eli and Katherine with the promise of something fun on the way home. But when we were in the waiting room, I started to regret bringing the kids. Vets were running around attending to several emergency cases, and there were a number of emotional owners weeping. Rupert was fine; he was scanning the hallway for his favorite cardiologist, who always had cookies for him. But there was a little Poodle sitting next to us who was shaking and panting and looking like she might expire on the spot. The kids’ eyes were wide and they were uncharacteristically quiet.

Then Katherine said something to Eli, and he giggled a little. “What?” I asked. “I said, somebody should get that dog some tea!” said Katherine. “Yeah,” piped up Eli. “Get that dog some tea, STAT!” (I seem to recall we were all watching the TV show “E.R.” a lot in those days.) Katherine went a little further. “Nurse!” she commanded in an imperious way, “Stop what you are doing and GET THAT DOG SOME TEA!”

This little bit of comedy was enough to get us out of the waiting room and eventually, out of the hospital, without further trauma. And “Get that dog some tea!” became both a family punch line and frequent advice – only these days, I brew rose petal tea to calm the anxious dogs I frequently foster from my local shelter. It works; see CJ Puotinen’s article on page 12 for more details.
Give it a try! STAT!

Camera-Phone Portraits of Your Pup? There’s an App for That!

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On most days, I use my cell phone as a camera more than a phone. It’s small, lightweight, always with me, and mobile app technology can turn a so-so shot into frame-worthy art.

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Most smart phones now feature cameras that shoot in 6-megapixels or higher, providing photos with good resolution and detail. The large screens make it easy to compose a shot without holding the camera directly up to your face, which makes some dogs shy away. (My Whippet seems to hate when I point a traditional camera at her; it’s something we’re working on. I joke that she thinks it will steal her soul.)

There are countless photo editing phone apps to play with. The most popular offer a variety of filters that give photos a fun, nostalgic feel. I’ve recently become somewhat obsessed with Retro Camera (Android), Streamzoo (Android) and Instagram (iPhone and Android). Some of my favorite pictures are shots I might have otherwise deleted if not for the ability to add filtering.

“There’s no reason in the world why you can’t use your phone,” says professional photographer Julie Poole, of Julie Poole Photography in Knoxville, Tennessee. “iPhones, for example, take really good pictures. I think phones are going to replace point-and-shoot cameras. If you have an iPhone or something similar, the pictures you can get and then filter through Instagram or various other apps are wonderful. Today, there’s no reason to feel ashamed that it’s just a phone photo. Some of my favorite pictures are phone photos because I always have my phone with me.”

Printing Camera App Photos
As photo-related camera apps increase in popularity, new businesses are springing up to help users display the captured moments. Many of the apps produce square images, which are difficult to print via the local drugstore’s photo center. A quick Google search reveals a surplus of sites offering unique products to free your favorite images from the confines of your phone. For example:

-StickyGram.com – A custom printing service that offers a collection of nine images on a pre-scored magnetic sheet for $15, with free shipping.

-Blurb.com – Create a book of Instagram photos. Prices start at $10.95 for 20 photos.

-Zazzle.com – Print your favorite app-created square images as 4-inch by 4-inch photos, on professional-quality photo paper, for .10 each. Or try PostalPix.com for .30 each.

How to Photograph Your Dog Like A Pro!

A picture is worth a thousand words, and when it comes to our beloved canine companions, we can never have too many memories preserved in perpetuity. Like people, dogs have unique personalities. Learning to capture your dog’s attitude, spirit and charm can make the difference between a so-so photo and a memory you just have to blow up and frame. The following tips will help you take your best shot.

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When you want jaw-dropping photos, it never hurts to let the true professionals work their magic by scheduling a professional photo shoot for your pet. Not only do professionals have the know-how and the equipment to achieve stunning images, working with a professional gives you the opportunity to be photographed with your pet.

While we strongly believe and have  seen ample evidence that it’s worth the cost to arrange for some once-in-a-lifetime professional photographs of your dog, we’ve also learned that, with just a little knowledge and a lot of practice any dog owner can learn to take terrific, memorable pictures of their dogs. One of the advantages you have, after all, is your familiarity with your dog; no one else will have as many opportunities to capture his unique personality. 

And that is the key to a great portrait. Ask professional photographers and dog lovers Rachele Valadez and Amy VandenBerg of Artis Photography in Snohomish, Washington, the difference between a good photo and a great one, and their answer is emphatic: Personality.

“I think a lot of times people don’t take the time; they get a beautiful dog portrait, but it’s not their dog. It’s a dog. It’s a beautiful portrait of a Dalmatian, but it’s not ‘Echo,’” says VandenBerg.

Whether shooting pets or people, capturing a subject’s unique personality is the team’s main goal. To help achieve this with pets, they often ask owners to engage their dogs in a favorite game in order to capture the joy of being a dog: running full tilt after a ball, jumping for a Frisbee, rolling in the grass, or chewing sticks.

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Similarly, Seth Casteel of Little Friends Photo in Los Angeles and Chicago (and who frequently tours the country taking portraits), specializes in lifestyle pet photography “embracing the at-ease mentality of pets on-location in their natural settings.”

“Each photo shoot I do is a unique challenge,” he says. “My goal is to showcase the dog’s personality through an image or series of images. Once I meet the little friend I am photographing, I find inspiration and ideas start to generate. I let the little friends tell me what kind of pictures best represent them.”

While posed pictures are nice, Casteel says a little creativity goes a long way to help unleash your pet’s inner rock star. Sometimes simply observing your dog in action (or in a state of inaction!) can help identify photographable moments. “Try something different,” says Casteel. “Play hide-and-seek with your dog. Ask him to sit and go hide in the house. Bring your camera and wait to be discovered.”

The last time Casteel tried something different, he was underwater photographing a diving dog. His underwater diving photos have since become a media sensation, going viral on the Internet and becoming the subject of his forthcoming book and 2013 calendar, both titled, Underwater Dogs.

Casteel dove into underwater photography quite by accident while shooting an on-land photo shoot with “Buster,” a Cavalier King Charles Spaniel who wanted to spend his time chasing his ball into the backyard pool.

“I thought, ‘I wonder what he looks like in there,’” recalls Casteel, who was so curious, he ran out and bought a waterproof point-and-shoot camera to capture Buster’s antics. Liking what he saw, and sensing he was on to something creatively, he decided to save up for a waterproof housing to protect his professional gear.

“It was a happy accident,” he says.

Enjoy the Great Outdoors
Shooting outdoors offers the benefit of myriad backdrops and the advantage of natural lighting, which pros favor at certain times of day. When planning an outdoor photo adventure, consider shooting during what photographers call “the golden hour,” the hour or so just as the sun is rising or setting. The light during this period is softer and offers warm, flattering hues. Also, because the sun is lower in the sky, it reduces the degree of overhead shadow.

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Avoid shooting midday when the sun is directly overhead, as it creates harsh shadows that distort the image. If your dog decides to be a perfect poser in the park at high noon, look for a well-shaded area to help filter overhead sun.

Even cloudy days offer certain advantages, according to Los Angeles photographers Kim Rodgers and Sarah Sypniewski, authors of Dog Photography for Dummies. “Don’t write off a cloudy day,” they write. “Thinking that you can’t get good photos on a cloudy or overcast day is a misconception. In fact, this is sometimes the best light you can hope for, especially if you’re photographing a black dog. Clouds can act as a giant softbox that filters the sun to an even and dispersed state, so take advantage of those clouds and forget about the ‘high noon rule’ on a cloudy day.”

Dog photographer Ida Kucera of Lerum, Sweden, takes the “cloudy day effect” one step further and frequently photographs pets in inclement weather for a naturally dramatic effect. Her dynamic photos have also been seen making the rounds on Facebook.

“Don’t be scared of doubtful weather,” says Kucera. “Even a good blizzard or sand storm creates great effects in lighting and casts dramatic shadows. I enjoy a good, extreme weather situation – it brings natural drama and takes the pet ‘back to nature’ a bit.”

Photography Basics
Whether using a simple point-and-shoot camera, or a more complex DSLR (digital single lens reflex) camera, understanding a few basic concepts can help improve your at-home photo shoots.

Rule of thirds – This is a basic composition principle that splits the frame into a tic-tac-toe board with two vertical and two horizontal lines. Rather than position your subject directly in the center, place his face at one set of intersecting lines. Whether you use the top or bottom set depends on what you want to highlight. To highlight something in the background, place your subject on one of the lower intersecting points; to highlight the subject in the foreground, use the upper intersecting points. The rule of thirds is a subtle, but powerful way to make images more interesting.

Choosing a background – To help make your pet the star of the shot, watch out for distractions in the background. Pick up unnecessary items that don’t contribute to the story you’re trying to tell, and watch out for unsightly objects (for example, a dirty dumpster). Pay attention to items that appear to be “growing” from the subject, such as a light pole directly behind his head.

When photographing dogs outdoors, Casteel recommends looking for the “wall of magic,” a bank of attractive green bushes that can be especially flattering when the sun is shining through, yet the bushes create a shady spot for the dog. You can also look for colors that complement your dog, or patterns that are interesting, but not overly distracting (such as the repeating pattern of a brick wall or wood fence).

A new angle – For most pet portraits, shooting at eye-level produces the most flattering image. Get down on the ground and experience the world from your dog’s point of view. Extreme angles, such as shooting down on your dog from up high, or shooting up from ground-level offer fun, creative results, so don’t be afraid to experiment; it’s one of the biggest benefits of digital photography (you don’t have to pay for film and processing!). Also, don’t be afraid to rotate the camera from the traditional horizontal position to a vertical orientation to add additional variety to your pictures.

Flash – Most pros agree that using a camera’s built-in flash leaves a lot to be desired when it comes to pet photography. The burst of light reflects off the subject’s retinas, and creates an alien-like image of dogs with red and green laser beams as eyes. If your camera has a fixed flash, it’s best to avoid using it. If using a DSLR, consider investing in an external flash unit or a lightscoop. Both attach to the camera’s “hot shoe” (the square port on the top of the camera) and allow you to bounce light off the ceiling so it falls back on your subject from a softer angle.

Fill the frame – Don’t be afraid to get close to your subject. Filling the frame with your subject, either by physically getting closer or using the lens to zoom in, creates stronger composition by highlighting the subject and helping to eliminate the possibility of clutter. For an artistic effect, you can even try filling the frame with one part of your dog – like the pads on his foot or his snout.

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Black and white dogs – Predominately black or white dogs pose a special challenge for your camera’s automatic mode because the light meter attempts to adjust the exposure to a setting that represents the middle tone of a particular scene. As a result, details are often lost on dark dogs, and white dogs appear washed out.

When using a point-and-shoot camera or the automatic setting on a DSLR, the best bet is to avoid direct, midday sunlight in favor of an evenly lit shady spot or a cloudy day. Direct sunlight will cast shadows that destroy detail. If shooting indoors, daytime shots often work better because you can fill the room with natural light. For both black and white dogs, an external flash or lightscoop can be used to bounce light off the ceiling to help light the subject. Many photographers also use an external flash when shooting outside, especially in brighter sunlight, because the additional light can help “fill” areas lost visually to shadow.

Even with the help of an external flash, it often takes some tinkering with the exposure compensation feature to produce a properly exposed photo of a black or white dog.

Exposure compensation is a sliding scale, usually represented by -2.0 on the left and +2.0 on the right. When set at “0,” the camera is exposing the photo without any input from the photographer. Adjusting to the left (negative) makes the next photo you take darker; adjusting to the right (positive) makes the next image lighter. Exposure is a great tool to experiment with; a solid understanding of how exposure affects images can help you create far better photos – especially of dark or light dogs.

Understanding Your Equipment
The better you understand your equipment, the more creative muscle you can flex in your photographs. Manuals can be daunting, but it can help if you investigate just one issue at a time.

For example, if your photos are always a little bit blurry, look in your camera’s manual for more information about shutter speed – the length of time that your camera exposes its digital sensors (or film!) to the subject that you are photographing. The faster your dog is moving, the faster your shutter speed will need to be to capture him in a nice, sharp image. If you are using a point-and-shoot, look for a “sports” or “kids and pets” mode, often depicted by a running stick figure or a child and an animal. These modes automatically selects a faster shutter speed, which will help freeze the action of your subject.

Or perhaps you’d like an artistically (and purposely) blurred photo of your dog running or jumping? Then you need to know how to slow the exposure. Check your manual to learn how to override your camera’s automatic features.

As another example, if you want an image where your dog is in focus, but the background is no more than an attractive blur, you will need to learn a bit about “depth of field,” which is the range of components in a scene that remain sharp, and how to adjust it using different apertures (the size of the hole in the lens, which, when combined with shutter speed, controls how much light gets into the camera) on the camera’s lens. In general, the larger the opening on the lens, the shallower the depth of field in the photo. On a point-and-shoot, this effect can be accomplished by switching from the fully automatic mode to “portrait” mode (usually marked with the image of a face or head). A shallow depth of field is great for photographing stationary subjects you want to stand out against the background.

Recruit a Friend
Having a second person to help you handle your dog goes along way toward creating a successful photo shoot. Dogs move quickly and their facial expressions can change in the blink of an eye. You’re much more likely to catch the moment you’re looking for if you keep your eye behind the camera and your shutter-finger at-the-ready. Ideally the helper is someone your dog already knows and is comfortable with, but if not, let them get to know each other (treats and toys can work well to shorten introductions) first. During the photo shoot, the helper’s job can range from guiding a dog into position to displaying an array of antics to help elicit a bright expression.

Humans are drawn to photos where the subject is looking directly into the camera – and to those where the subject is looking completely sideways to the camera. The problem with taking photos in which the dog is making eye contact with the camera is that many dogs, like my Whippet, are uncomfortable looking into the camera – or looking at you when you have a camera obscuring your face! Have your helper perform her squeaky noises or toy-waving right behind your head, so it looks as much like your dog is looking into the camera as possible. Alternatively, position your dog, yourself, and your helper so that you get a beautiful profile, with your dog looking toward the sun, so that her eyes fill with light and sparkle.

Have Fun With It
When it comes to getting the right “look” from your canine companion, don’t be afraid to look or behave ridiculously – and be creative! Come to the shoot prepared with lots of props. Some dogs light up at the sound of a squeaky toy. Some dogs prefer toys that rattle or grunt. Some dogs are easily captivated by the crinkle of a plastic wrapper – the sure sound that a treat is nearby. With many dogs, tossing the treat or toy in the air and catching it piques their interest. Others light up if you playfully pretend to stalk them or ask the ever-popular questions, “Where’s the kitty?” or “Wanna go for a walk?”

Photo by Artis Photography.

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Whatever techniques you use, remember to reward your dog for his participation, don’t forget to take frequent breaks, and watch for signs that your dog is becoming stressed. Frequent lip-licking, yawning, panting, or averting his gaze and refusing to look at the camera are all signs that your dog is becoming stressed by the situation. Rather than try harder to get his attention, it’s time to take a break.

Train, Don’t Complain
Photo shoots, whether at home or in a professional studio, go a lot more smoothly when everyone is relaxed. In your quest to preserve precious memories, don’t forget your responsibility to keep your dog physically and emotionally safe. If he’s generally nervous in new places, consider building his confidence before expecting him to sit calmly in a photo studio full of strange people pointing strange equipment in his direction.

Similarly, consider brushing up on his basic skills before a photo session.

“If people want good pictures of their dogs sitting still and looking at the camera, a good ‘sit’ and ‘stay’ goes a million miles,” says VandenBerg. “It starts with training, for sure.”

Whether you plan to shoot at home or in a studio, make sure you practice any skill or behavior you know you want from your dog in the weeks and days before the shoot.

“Do not stress, do not yell, do not get frustrated,” says professional photographer Julie Poole, of Julie Poole Photography in Knoxville, Tennessee. “That will only torque up the dog.”

Poole, who breeds and shows Whippets, has been photographing pets since 2006. “I started in animal photography because I was showing horses and enjoyed photographing them even when I wasn’t showing,” she says. “Being a competitor, I knew more of what people wanted to see in their shots, and what not to shoot.”

A love of and familiarity with the subject is a huge advantage of working with a professional photographer who specializes in animal photography. Not only are they more likely to be patient with and attuned to the special needs of non-human subjects, they understand how to bring out the best in the animal.

“There’s something good about every subject that’s put in front of you. It’s up to you to bring it out in them,” says Poole.

Just Do It
“People take photos for many reasons,” Poole says. “The most important one is to preserve memories. At some point, the dog will be gone and memories are all that is left. It doesn’t have to be a Picasso or a Pulitzer to mean the world to you.”

VandenBerg agrees. “Document your dog throughout his life. Don’t wait,” she says. “I can’t count how many clients who have called and said, ‘I’m so glad you photographed my dog because we lost him the next day, or next week.’ Whether you choose to use a professional photographer or not, you just can’t have enough pictures.”
 
Stephanie Colman is a writer and dog trainer in Los Angeles. She shares her life with two dogs (whom she enjoys photographing), and actively competes in obedience and agility. 

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