Special considerations should be taken when boating with your dog. The importance of life jackets for pets recently made headlines when a 5-year-old Pomeranian fell from his family’s boat on the Chicago River near Lake Michigan, and was missing for nearly 24 hours before turning up safe on land.
Photo By Practical-Sailor.com
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For owners with dogs who love to swim, getting the dog safely back aboard the boat can be a challenge. Many owners underestimate the height difference between the surface of the water and the edge of the boat, and struggle to haul their water-logged dogs in from the water. That experience was exactly what motivated Jim Perkins of Waterdog Adventure Gear to invent his patented Wag Boarding Steps.
“We looked at other products to help our dog board the boat, and as an engineer, I was disappointed with the design and function,” he says, noting that some products attach to the boat’s swim ladder or swim step with straps that allow the dog ramp to move and sway with the movement of the water, which can frighten some dogs.
There are a number of water ramps and steps on the market. Perkins says the proprietary attachment design of his product provides more stability than its competitors, and describes his stairs (which are 14 inches wide with a 4-inch rise between each step) as a “more natural, pet-friendly approach” to water ladders for pets. His product debuted in January at the Chicago Boat Show and based on customer feedback, he’s already working on a pool version, a version customized to meet the needs of fisherman and duck hunters, and a set of automobile stairs.
No matter how strong your dog’s recall may be (and we recommend it be quite strong if you’re considering letting your dog off-leash at the beach, lake, or river), it’s important to remember that the excitement of being in the water, coupled with the potential desire to swim out for a toy or chase a flock of ducks, could result in his recall falling on deaf ears. Prior to fun water play, consider brushing up on your dog’s recall with the following:
–Remember that coming when called is a skill that requires maintenance for the life of your dog. It’s easy to find yourself feeling “too busy” to train, but designating just 10 minutes a day to recall training can go a long way toward bolstering the skill.
–Make sure your training includes teaching your dog to purposefully turn away from distractions in favor of coming to you. Avoid static recalls where the dog sits and waits as you leave, then call him to you. A “real life” recall rarely looks like that.
–Reward generously every time your dog comes to you. Really invest quality time in the process of rewarding your dog. Combine genuine praise with the types of petting, play, and treats your dog loves best. Imagine that the process of rewarding your dog is the like making a deposit in the bank. You want to make hefty deposits because challenging recalls (especially away from distractions) are expensive. Make sure you can afford it!
–Consider working your dog on a long line when you first get to the water and aren’t sure how your land training will carry over. Long lines are also a good alternative when local laws prohibit off-leash dogs.
–If you’re struggling with teaching a reliable recall, consult a qualified trainer who can help you use positive reinforcement methods to strengthen your dog’s ability to come when called.
Life jackets for dogs are available at most pet supply and sporting good shops, but one size definitely does not fit all. A proper fit is critical to helping ensure the safety of your pet.
“When you put a life jacket on your dog, it should fit snug around the belly and chest so that when he’s floating, his head is above water,” explains Cynthia Jones, DVM. “If it’s too big, you’ll see the jacket come up and be floating with the dog resting in the bottom. When that happens, the dog has to really paddle to keep her head up. It’s important that it fit snug across the chest and around the belly.”
A well-fitted life jacket can also be used to pull a dog out of the water, if need be. This can be a huge help, whether rescuing a dog who fell over the side of a boat or who is simply exhausted from swimming.
A good fit, reiterates Jones, trumps brand name. “I haven’t come across any brands that I think are bad; just ones that are a bad fit on the dog.”
Did Your Dog Have a Scary, Sinking Moment in the Water?
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“If the dog comes out and he’s fine, he’ll shake it off,” says Jules Benson, DVM. “You need to watch him for the next 24 to 48 hours, because that’s when aspiration pneumonia (caused by water going down into the main-stem bronchi) can occur. Especially if it’s water other than a pool, where there could be bacteria or protozoa in the water. If they aspirate any of that and it goes into the lungs, the bacteria spreads and multiplies. This begins an infectious process and the dog becomes notably depressed, lethargic, might be feverish and exhibits a loss of appetite. The history of, ‘He fell into the pool,’ or ‘He fell into the river’ can be really useful to a veterinarian.”
“If the dog ingests enough water where he’s nauseated or doesn’t want to eat afterwards, he needs to go to the vet,” adds Cynthia Jones, DVM. “Most of the chlorinated pool water isn’t an issue, but the exertion of trying to stay afloat, plus the stress and the shock of a near-drowning experience, can be a problem.”
– Teach your dog a proper swimming technique and make sure he knows how to safely exit the backyard pool.
– Learn the signs of heatstroke, which can occur even when enjoying water play.
– Have an emergency plan, which includes knowing the location of the nearest emergency vet and CPR for pets (and people).
Imagine this: A hot summer day, blue skies, a beautiful lake, and a bunch of friends tossing toys into the water for their dogs to fetch. One gorgeous, healthy Labrador swimming strongly to retrieve a toy that has sailed out beyond the rest. Cue some ominous music as you notice that the dog, who is powering through the water like she is driving toward an amateur field champion win at a hunt test, already has a toy in her mouth. As she reaches the second toy, a large ball with an unusual shape, she confidently bites toward it for the retrieve. But with one toy already in her mouth, she can’t quite get hold of the second object, so she diligently powers on, heading farther and farther into the lake with each failed attempt to grasp the toy, even as her owner repeatedly calls her name and uses her recall cue.
This scene actually played out in front of me at an annual retreat that I organize as a dog trainer. That’s why, when I realized what was happening, I was as horrified as the dog’s owner, Elisa Becker of Malibu, California. “I thought she would hear her recall word and turn around,” says Becker. Her dog Julia, a six-year-old Labrador, was obsessed with retrieving. This is ordinarily a good thing, but in this case, Julia’s passion was taking her farther and farther out into the water. I knew Julia was a strong swimmer, but I also worried that, given her persistence, she might exhaust herself. Plus, she was heading far enough out to get in the way of the miscellaneous watercraft on the lake.
“I started to panic as she was getting farther and farther out,” says Becker. “I just kept thinking, ‘Turn around! Turn around!’ Then I thought, ‘What am I going to do when she swims across the lake?’ and I remember feeling myself starting to hyperventilate, and thinking I needed to take deep breaths or I wouldn’t be able to swim; and I’m not a strong swimmer, so that was concerning me.”
I stripped my pockets of electronics and started swimming toward Julia. I knew I’d never catch up to her if she kept going, but my plan was to splash around and become interesting enough to break her fixation with the second toy.
The plan worked fairly quickly. She turned around so she could see what all the splashing was about, and then finally “heard” Becker calling, and swam right past me on her way to shore, preparing herself for the next retrieve.
“When she finally turned around and swam past you to come back in, I remember thinking that she had no idea of the danger she was in,” Becker says. “She dropped the toy and acted like she wanted to go back in, and I knew we were the only ones who were ever worried. She never panicked and didn’t seem tired.”
Dogs Do Drown
Fortunately, all we lost that day was the one toy. Not all owners are as lucky. Many dogs do drown, especially when the summer sun finds dogs of all shapes and sizes in contact with backyard pools, beaches, lakes, stock ponds, and neighborhood swimming holes. Water fun can be a great way for pets and people to play together and cool off, but just as specific safety precautions must be followed when children are near water, similar precautions exist for pets.
Drowning ranks fifth among leading causes of unintentional injury and death to humans in the United States. Every day, according to Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, about 10 people die from unintentional drowning. There isn’t an equivalent government agency to compile statistics for dogs, but various groups have collected some relevant data:
One pet products company estimates that the odds of a pet drowning are 1 in 1,028.
Jules Benson, DVM, vice president of veterinary services with Petplan Pet Insurance, reports that about 1 of every 34,000 submitted insurance claims are related to drowning or near-drowning.
Cynthia Jones, DVM, a shelter veterinarian for the Humane Society of North Texas in Fort Worth, reports dealing with two to three water-related pet fatalities, and lots of water-related injuries, every summer in her former career as a private practice veterinarian.
Even pool maintenance professionals have stories of entering clients’ homes, only to discover a dog clinging to life on the edge of the pool – or worse.
Swim Lessons for Dogs
Many dogs benefit from a swimming lesson or two. A common misconception is that all dogs can “dog paddle” and keep themselves afloat in the water. Inexperienced (or panicked) swimmers often concentrate their efforts on the front legs, forgetting to fire up the back end. Front-end-only swimming is rather ineffective and uses a tremendous amount of energy. As a result, dogs end up near-vertical in the water, with lots of splashing.
Getting in the pool with the dog and supporting his back-end as he swims a short distance is often a great way to prompt him to begin effectively using his back legs. Using a dog life jacket to help keep him afloat can help anxious swimmers relax enough to paddle with all four legs. As a dog gets the hang of using his front and back ends in unison, the body evens out and splashing becomes minimal.
The “make and model” of your dog can have a lot to do with how effectively he can handle himself in the water. Breeds with broad chests and shorter legs (Bulldogs, Corgis, Pugs, etc.) aren’t really designed for effective swimming, and heavily muscled breeds (like many of the so-called “bully” breeds) exert a lot of energy in the water due to their greater body mass. Sighthounds (Whippets, Greyhounds, etc.) often have the double disadvantage of heavy muscling plus little body fat to help with buoyancy, especially if they regularly partake in recreational racing and coursing. A well-fitting life jacket helps provide an added layer of safety during water play.
Beware the Heat
Swimming is a great way for dogs to burn off excess energy, stay in shape and even shed some unwanted pounds. When swimming an overweight dog, be sure to check with your veterinarian first and be careful not to overdo it. The more overweight the dog, the more quickly he will tire. Start slowly and gradually increase the amount of time your dog swims. Similarly, when dealing with dogs who lead mostly sedentary lives, avoid the “weekend warrior syndrome” of too much of a good thing. Dogs, like people, experience muscle soreness and stiffness, and they’re counting on us to look out for their best interests. Even dogs who love the water often need to be forced to take a break. Always be on the lookout for signs of fatigue (such as when a dog’s rear end starts to ride lower in the water as he’s swimming) or over-stimulation (in water-loving dogs, this is often a wide-eyed, frenetic pace).
Heat stroke is often a hidden danger that lurks along the sidelines of water play with our pets, especially during summer months.
“The water play keeps the body temperature down unless they’re being exerted at the same time,” says Jones, describing the common scene of a dog running along the shoreline to retrieve. “The dog is running back and forth and getting cooled off when he jumps in the water, but then he’s getting hot because he keeps chasing the stick.”
The water helps lower the dog’s external body temperature, but the activity, especially on hot days, can still drive internal body temperatures to dangerous – even deadly – levels.
“Once a dog starts panting, owners need to look at the gums and tongue color,” explains Jones. “When the dog begins panting and the gums start getting dark pink, you need to stop. Throw the ball four or five times and then bring your dog in and let her rest in the shade and have some water.” (Note: Being able to recognize the dark pink nature of your dog’s tongue and gums requires that you are familiar with the “normal” pink color. Every dog is different. Be sure to learn what’s “normal” for your individual dogs.)
Dr. Benson agrees. “The biggest thing with heat stroke is to be aware that dogs really have no other form of getting rid of heat other than panting,” he says. “Panting causes heat to be lost through the evaporation of saliva in their mouth and on their tongue. My general advice is not to have pets out in direct summer sunlight during the usual times that we’re told not to go out in the sun: after 10 a.m. and before 4 p.m., especially if there’s going to be exercise.”
If your dog does overdo it and is falling victim to heat stroke, signs to watch for, says Benson, include a staggering gait and an overall “drunken” appearance. In that case, it’s time to head to the nearest veterinarian.
“I would always seek vet care for heat stroke,” advises Benson. “The normal body temperature for a dog goes up to about 103 degrees. An internal temperature of 103 to 105 degrees is uncomfortable. Anything above 105 degrees can cause brain damage. You need to get to a vet to make sure everything is okay, and if the temperature is above 105, the vet can give IV fluids and help cool the dog down properly.” While en route, wet towels along the back of the neck, groin and armpit areas (sites of major blood vessels), with a fan blowing over them, is one of the best ways to begin cooling the dog. As with people, avoid the “old wives tale” remedy of total submersion in ice water, as it creates too much shock to the system.
Proper Pool Exits
If the backyard pool is your water spot of choice, there are several important things to consider. It’s imperative that your dog knows how to safely exit the pool. Even accomplished swimmers can drown while trying unsuccessfully to claw their way out from the edge of the pool.
“I think people would be surprised at the number of pets who drown in backyard pools because they fall in and can’t get out,” says Jones, who says obese dogs, geriatric dogs, and small dogs are especially at risk because of the added physical challenges associated with trying to climb out at the edge if not properly trained.
“The biggest problem (seen in her former private practice) was the old dogs who were blind or partially blind. They’d go outside at night to use the bathroom, not see the edge of the pool, fall in, and between it being dark and the dog not having good vision, they’d be gone before you know it.”Whenever possible, veterinarians and trainers alike recommend installing a fence around the pool or, at the very least, training the dog to confidently find and use the steps to safely exit.
“People who have a backyard pool and a dog really need to teach the dog how to go in and out of the pool using the steps,” says Jones. She also recommends marking the stair area with an easy-to-spot visual, such as a large potted plant, to help the dog orient and find the way out, especially if in a panic.
“Put something where the stairs are, so when the dog falls in and he’s scared and turning around trying to figure out which way is out, he just has to spot that one thing to know where the stairs are and be able to find the area of safety,” Jones says.
Proper training is necessary to teach your dog to effectively use the stairs or other pool-exit device, such as a ramp or set of pet stairs. If your dog is a willing swimmer, associating the area with plenty of treats, petting, and praise is a great way to help establish the habit of exiting the pool at specific points. For toy breeds, consider placing a landscaping brick or two on the top pool step to make it a shorter climb out (or in) for your dog. Additionally, teaching your dog to only enter the pool at a specific spot – such as via the steps – not only reinforces its value, but can also prevent the dog from leaping into the pool and landing on unsuspecting swimmers. Also, when you don’t want to the dog to go in the pool at all, using a barrier to block access to the stairs effectively announces to your dogs that the pool is temporarily closed.
Reluctant swimmers require great care and patience when working in and around water. Just because your dog will never voluntarily go for a swim, doesn’t mean he gets to skip the safety lesson.
Marsha Rothpan of West Hills, California, knows all too well what can happen when water-reluctant dogs find themselves on the wrong side of the pool’s edge. Her Labrador Retriever, Max, once took a surprise spill into the backyard pool while absorbed in chasing a squirrel.
“He fell in the deep end and was probably doggie paddling for 10 minutes before I figured out why Stokley, my other dog, kept coming to me and acting strange,” she remembers. “I tried calling him to the stairs, but he went to the side with a freaked-out, panicked look in his eyes. He reminded me of a wild mustang being roped.” In her panic, she managed to haul the then 100-pound dog out of the water. “His nails were gone, his paws were bloody and it was one of the scariest things I’ve ever experienced with a dog.”
The incident prompted her to contact a trainer to come help teach Max to find the stairs. He’s still not a fan of the water, and the Rothpan family now takes the added precaution of keeping an eye on the dogs when they’re outside and closing the dog door when they aren’t home.
When teaching a pet to be safe in the pool, it’s absolutely imperative that you take your time and establish your dog’s trust. Above all else, never throw your dog into the water to let him “figure it out on his own.” Not only can this damage the relationship with your dog, a panicked dog is in survival mode, not learning mode.
For professional trainer Lisa Maldonado of Glendale, Arizona, canine water safety training makes up about 75 percent of her training business.
“The key is to make the pool positive and get your dog on the steps,” says Maldonado. “Work with the dogs. When they’re hot, they’re more likely to want to go into the pool. If they’ve been sleeping all day and their core is cool from being inside with air conditioning, they’re not as likely to want to be in the pool at all.”
Maldonado initially outfits her canine clients in life jackets to help them remain buoyant, which, she says, reduces the chance that the dog goes into survival mode, and helps make him more receptive to learning. Her approach involves physically placing the dog on the steps, while leashed, and patiently encouraging him to venture out and explore the pool. As the dog begins swimming, the leash allows her to redirect the dog back toward the stairs if he tries to climb out along the side. Patience and repetition helps condition the dog to return to the steps, bench, or other “safe” area.
“I find out where his weak spots are in the pool and keep working past those,” she says. “It’s very incremental, but it’s amazing to see when the dog knows how to get out.” Maldonado adds that, whenever possible, it’s best to avoid helping your dog out at the side of the pool because he’ll likely remember that, and you want it to be clear to the dog that the only way out (especially when you’re not there to help) is at the stairs or bench.
Another option I’ve used is to back-chain a safe pool exit by establishing the stairs as the most valuable spot in the pool through a strong reward history, carrying the dog into the water, and having him swim to the steps from different points in the pool.
While some may scoff at the idea of specialty swimming lessons for pets, it’s a valuable skill that can mean the difference between life and death.
“It just takes that one time,” cautions Maldonado. “You would take care of a human child around a pool. We care about our dogs as much as human children. If you have a pool, either train the dog to be safe, or install a fence around the pool. It’s that simple.”
We would add, even if you have a fence, it’s wise to invest in pool safety. “It just takes that one time,” goes for accidentally leaving a pool gate open, too.
Other Safety Tips for Dogs in the Pool
Even when your dog loves the water and has mastered the art of safe entry and exit when poolside, there are several other key points to consider to help ensure safe water play.
Just say ‘No’ to Floating Pool Covers – Floating covers are extremely dangerous in homes with children and pets. Countless dogs, even accomplished swimmers, have lost their lives following an unexpected tumble into a covered pool. Falling underneath or even on top of a floating cover is extremely disorienting and it becomes almost impossible for the dog to find his way out. Invest in a safety cover, which fits over the entire pool and is anchored in place to create a physical barrier between the water and those around the pool.
Unintentional Pawticures – Dogs can quickly wear their nails down to the point of bleeding as they excitedly race around the pool’s exterior. It’s important to keep an eye on the pads of their feet as well. Repeated launching from the pool steps can tear up paw pads, especially on dogs who spend most of their time on grass. Hot concrete, stone decking, and hot or rough rocks along the lake shore can also tear up or severely burn their pads. “Every year I see cases where the pads of the feet are sloughing off because they got burned,” says Jones.
Poolside Patience, Please – It’s also important to teach your dog to remain calm when others are swimming. Many dogs want to excitedly race around the exterior of the pool, barking madly while their favorite humans take a dip. If you don’t want him racing around the pool in bark-fest mode, try not to ever let him practice.
When you want some dog-free pool time, consider confining your dog indoors where he can’t see the pool activity, and give him his favorite chew bone or other consolation prize. Additionally, set up training sessions where one person works the dog (leashed, with wonderful treats in-hand) while another casually enjoys the pool, and reward generously for calm poolside behavior.
Be Aware of Your Surroundings before allowing your dog in the water – Be sure to take note of (and follow!) local regulations which may dictate whether or not dogs can be in the water and if so, if they can be off-leash. Pay attention to hazards below the water’s surface (such as logs or other obstacles), as well as general water conditions, especially potential rip currents, undertow, or deceptively fast-moving water. Keep an eye out for discarded hooks when near a fishing area, and consider adding a pair of wire cutters to your training bag. Speaking of fishing, pay attention to the birds at the seashore. If the birds are fishing, there are bait fish in the area, and bait fish can often mean that bigger fish, even sharks, are nearby.
Don’t Drink the Water – Avoid letting your dog drink excessively from the backyard pool. The same goes for rivers, ponds, lakes, and the ocean. Be sure to always carry plenty of fresh water – more than you think you’ll need – when enjoying outdoor activities. While dogs are certainly more resilient to various bacteria in the environment than their human counterparts, Giardia is not uncommon among dogs who visit ponds and lakes. Leptospirosis is also extremely common in the southwest, and according to Benson, has also recently spread to the Midwest and into the north. For this reason, if your summer plans include travel, it’s always a good idea to speak with your vet about diseases that might be uncommon or non-existent in your area, but prevalent throughout your travel route or at your intended destination.
Post-swim Spa Treatments – Be sure to rinse off your dog following an outdoor water adventure. Chlorine and other pool chemicals can dry out a dog’s coat and skin, and swimming in natural environments can result in a dirty dog. Be mindful of areas that tend to remain damp, such as the ears or area under the collar. Ear infections and hot spots are common in water-loving dogs. To help prevent ear infections, Dr. Benson recommends a post-water ear flush with a commercial ear wash or a mixture of half water, half white vinegar to help dry the ear and create an environment that’s not conducive to yeast overgrowth.
Have a Plan – Accidents happen. Think ahead about what you’d do if you had to rescue a pet from the water. Are you a strong swimmer? Consider bringing a human life jacket so that there’s one less thing to worry about in the heat of the moment. Know the location of the nearest emergency vet, and have a well-stocked pet and human first-aid kit in the car. It’s also a good idea to learn CPR for pets and people.
It’s not pleasant to imagine an emergency spoiling your summer fun, but a little pre-planning and diligent training will keep you and your pets enjoying the water for years to come.
Stephanie Colman is a writer and dog trainer in Los Angeles. She shares her life with two dogs, and actively competes in obedience and agility.
You probably know someone with an underactive thyroid gland; in fact, you may have one yourself. The signs of hypothyroidism in humans include a subnormal body temperature, cold hands and feet, weight gain, hair loss, and constant fatigue. People aren’t the only ones afflicted by this disorder, for many dogs are hypothyroid, too. They may seem lethargic, gain weight while eating normal or below-normal amounts of food, seek warmth, and develop skin and coat conditions. But hypothyroidism causes other symptoms, too, and an accurate diagnosis can require thinking outside the box.
Consider Logan, a highly trained search and rescue dog who, at age three, became so fearful that he could no longer work and was going to be retired. Brodie, an agility dog, had normal thyroid test results but was slow in competition and had constant ear infections. Brewser, an Alaskan Malamute, became aggressive and lost his appetite. Ruq, a Eurasier at a perfect weight, became short-tempered, lethargic, and developed entropion, a condition in which her eyelids rolled inward, requiring surgery to correct.
The veterinarians who treated these dogs insisted they could not be hypothyroid because their test results were “normal,” they were not overweight, or they had beautiful coats. But the vets were mistaken; treating their underactive thyroids returned these dogs to health.
Metabolic Hormones The butterfly-shaped thyroid gland, which resides in the throat on either side of the trachea, manufactures and stores hormones that control the body’s metabolism. When the thyroid is too active or not active enough, a variety of health problems result. In humans and dogs, hypothyroidism is the most common endocrine disorder; cats and a smaller percentage of humans are prone to hyperthyroidism, an overactive thyroid gland. Hyperthyroidism in dogs is rare unless too much thyroid supplement is given, but can be linked to thyroid cancer or cystic nodules.
The thyroid produces two forms of thyroid hormone: T3 (triiodothyronine), which is the active form, and T4 (thyroxine), the inactive form. When T4 is absorbed into tissues, it is converted into T3, but most of the circulating (total) T4 is not available for absorption. The part that is available is called free T4. In dogs, about half of the body’s T3 comes from the thyroid gland and about half is converted from T4 by other tissues.
The production of T4 is regulated by the pituitary, a tiny pea-sized gland at the base of the skull. The pituitary is known as the “master gland” because it controls so many hormone functions. Among other things, it produces thyroid stimulating hormone, or TSH, which causes the thyroid gland to release T4.
Every cell in the body responds to thyroid hormones, and low levels can affect multiple body systems. Nearly all canine cases of hypothyroidism are primary, which means they are caused by damage to the thyroid gland, usually by inflammation, degeneration, or a tumor.
Hypothyroid Signs
Because hypothyroidism affects many body systems, clinical signs are variable, non-specific, and often slow to develop. The most classic signs (significant weight gain, lethargy, and cold intolerance) do not appear until more than 70 percent of the thyroid gland is destroyed. Other symptoms may appear earlier, such as behavior changes (lack of focus, aggression, passivity, or fearfulness), minor weight gain despite caloric restriction, and apparent food allergies or intolerances.
As many as 88 percent of hypothyroid dogs suffer from chronic skin disorders, including dry, scaly, or greasy skin (seborrhea); thin or coarse, dry coat; excessive hair loss; and offensive skin odor. Additional effects of hypothyroidism can include bradycardia (slow heart rate), constipation, diarrhea, chronic skin and ear infections, corneal dystrophy or ulceration, and female infertility.
One classical finding in hypothyroid dogs is a thickening of tissue, especially in the face and head. The thickened skin produces folds and what is referred to as a “tragic face.” This thickening can occur in other tissues as well, such as facial nerves, causing neurological disorders.
Autoimmune thyroiditis may occur in conjunction with other autoimmune disorders. While the following are not considered symptoms of hypothyroidism, there may be connections between hypothyroidism and megaesophagus, laryngeal paralysis, Addison’s disease, ear infections, ruptured cruciate ligament, pancreatitis, vitiligo (pigment loss), unprovoked aggression, and the sudden onset of seizure disorders.
As many as 77 percent of dogs with seizures may be hypothyroid, although the link between these conditions is unclear. One study showed a significant relationship between thyroid dysfunction and seizures as well as between thyroid dysfunction and dog-to-human aggression. Treatment follow-up in 95 of these cases showed a significant behavioral improvement in 61 percent of the dogs.
Potential Causes
The leading cause of hypothyroidism in dogs is damage caused by the body’s own immune system. W. Jean Dodds, DVM, author of The Canine Thyroid Epidemic: Answers You Need for Your Dog, specializes in canine thyroid problems. Dr. Dodds estimates that more than 80 percent of canine hypothyroid patients have an inherited autoimmune disorder resulting in a condition similar to Hashimoto’s thyroiditis in humans. Lymphocytic thyroiditis, which is common in dogs, is an inflammation of the thyroid gland caused by the immune system attacking the gland by mistake.
Most of the remaining cases are caused by idiopathic follicular atrophy: degeneration of the thyroid gland without evidence of inflammation (idiopathic means that its cause is unknown), and may be the end result of immune-mediated destruction.
Dr. Dodds blames poor breeding practices, frequent vaccinations, immune-suppressing medications, nutrient-deficient diets, and exposure to environmental toxins for today’s epidemic of canine hypothyroidism.
Because the thyroid needs iodine in order to function, an iodine deficiency may contribute to hypothyroidism. However, most commercial dog foods contain adequate levels of iodine, so this is unlikely to occur unless the dog is fed a home-prepared diet lacking in iodine. Excess iodine from oversupplementation can also suppress thyroid function and even contribute to autoimmune thyroiditis. Do not add kelp to a commercial diet that already contains iodine. According to Dr. Dodds, excessive iodine resulting from adding kelp to commercial food while a dog is pregnant or nursing can destroy the thyroid glands of fetal or newborn pups.
Although rare, some dogs are born with congenital defects that prevent the production of thyroid hormones. This condition has been seen in Giant Schnauzers and Boxers.
Thyroid tumors are another uncommon cause of hypothyroidism, but unless a tumor affects both lobes of the thyroid and the gland is completely destroyed, hormone output usually remains normal.
Secondary hypothyroidism develops when some other influence causes the thyroid gland to produce insufficient thyroxine, such as when a brain disease interferes with the regulation of thyroid gland activity, or when the gland is destroyed by radiation therapy, surgical removal, or the administration of medications that affect thyroid gland activity.
Diagnosis
To diagnose hypothyroidism, veterinarians rely on several thyroid function tests, including total T4, free T4, total T3, free T3, TSH, and tests for autoantibodies T4AA, T3AA, and TgAA, which indicate autoimmune thyroiditis.
Thyroglobulin (or Tg) autoantibodies will be high in about 92 percent of cases where T3 or T4 autoantibodies are present, so tests for TgAA can be used in their place and to monitor response to treatment. About 20 percent of dogs with thyroglobulin autoantibodies but no signs of hypothyroidism will progress to overt signs within one year. Rabies vaccination within 45 days of the test can cause falsely elevated results; giving thyroid supplementation up to 90 days before the test will decrease the result.
Barry D. Wood
The TSH test, which is commonly used to diagnose human hypothyroidism, is not reliable in dogs. High TSH combined with low free T4 helps to confirm the diagnosis, but normal or low TSH does not rule it out. The total T4 screening test also cannot be used to rule out hypothyroidism, as the presence of autoantibodies can falsely increase the result. The most accurate test is the Free T4 by Equilibrium Dialysis, although even that by itself gives an incomplete picture.
T3 results are not reliable for diagnosing hypothyroidism. T3 levels are typically normal in hypothyroid dogs. High levels can be caused by T3 autoantibodies; low levels are often linked to non-thyroidal illness (NTI).
Normal T4 test results can vary by age, size, and breed – normal levels are lower in older dogs, large dogs, and especially sighthounds – and unrelated illnesses can reduce thyroid levels, as can treatment with seizure medications, corticosteroids, non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs, beta blockers, drugs used to treat separation anxiety, and some antibiotics. Because circulating blood levels of thyroid hormones may not reflect the cellular and tissue levels of these hormones, dogs with normal test results but with clinical signs may benefit from thyroid supplementation.
At the same time, an accurate diagnosis is important because treating a dog for hypothyroidism that doesn’t exist creates new problems.
Sick Euthyroid Syndrome (SES) is often misdiagnosed as hypothyroidism. In SES, dogs with normally functioning thyroid glands (euthyroid) have decreased thyroid hormone levels because of trauma, stress, injury, or poor diet, any of which can affect hormone levels. The thyroid responds to stress, illness, or injury by reducing thyroid hormone secretion, thus slowing the body’s metabolic rate and conserving energy. Because the underlying cause of SES may be difficult to identify, this protective mechanism can be mistaken for hypothyroidism. Examples of non-thyroidal illnesses that can lower thyroid levels include Cushing’s disease, diabetes mellitus, chronic renal failure, liver disease, and Addison’s disease. When these diseases are treated, the apparent hypothyroid problem corrects itself.
Other test results may help confirm the diagnosis. Over 75 percent of dogs with end-stage hypothyroidism have high cholesterol levels in blood drawn after a 12-hour fast, though this may not be seen in early stages of the disease. Approximately 40 percent are anemic. Liver enzymes (likely due to altered fat metabolism) or creatine kinase (CK) are sometimes elevated. Because other factors can affect these test results, they support a diagnosis of hypothyroidism without being definitive on their own.
Even the weather can affect results, for a ride to the vet on a hot summer day may temporarily decrease total T4 levels, causing false low-thyroid results.
When diagnosis is in doubt, blood can be sent to Dr. Dodds’ Hemolife Laboratory, a division of Hemopet. Dr. Dodds will also review test results from other labs with dog owners and veterinarians. She keeps track of normal test result ranges for different breeds and situations, which can help determine whether a low-normal test result might indicate hypothyroidism.
A therapeutic trial for at least six weeks can also be used when there is a question about diagnosis, although improvements may be seen in dogs with SES who are not truly hypothyroid.
Treatment
Hypothyroid dogs respond quickly to thyroxine (T4) treatment, with improvements in attitude, mood, mental alertness, energy, activity levels, appetite, and aggressive behavior during the first week or two. Skin and coat problems usually improve within four to six weeks, while hair regrowth may take four months or longer. In most cases thyroid medication is needed for life.
Medication can be given either with or without food but should always be given the same way because food interferes with absorption and thyroxine binds to soy and calcium. Many veterinarians recommend giving thyroid medication at least an hour before or three hours after meals. If symptoms do not resolve or T4 levels remain low when supplements are given with meals, they should be given separately to ensure adequate absorption.
Soloxine (levothyroxine sodium) is the most commonly prescribed medication for dogs with hypothyroidism. (Synthroid is the same drug’s human formulation.) Because thyroid supplementation increases the metabolic rate, dogs with significant heart disease or hypertension (high blood pressure) should be treated with caution.
The typical thyroxine starting dose is 0.1 mg per 10 pounds of ideal body weight every 12 hours (twice daily dosing works best due to the medication’s short half life in dogs). Smaller dogs require higher doses for their size, while sighthounds should be given less. In complicated cases, where the patient also has diabetes or an illness affecting the liver, kidneys, or heart, treatment should begin more slowly, at 25 percent of the standard beginning dose, and gradually increase over three months.
Veterinarians report differences in how dogs respond to generic and brand-name drugs; many warn against using generics because of differences in absorption and bioavailability. Fortunately, brand-name thyroid drugs are inexpensive, just a few dollars a month, so there is little economic advantage to using generics. Once a dog is stabilized on a particular thyroid medication, it’s better to keep the dog on that product rather than switch from one brand to another.
Follow-up T4 testing ensures that the dosage is correct. The timing of the test is important, as T4 levels will be lowest just before the pill is given and highest four to six hours after. This testing is usually done four to eight weeks after therapy begins. TSH levels can also be checked, for high TSH indicates that the dosage is too low. (Normal or low TSH levels are not meaningful.)
Signs of a too-high dosage can include increased thirst, drinking, and urination; weight loss; diarrhea; panting; nervousness or anxiety; restlessness; pacing; hyperactivity; and an elevated heart rate.
After the initial dosage is confirmed, annual monitoring is recommended unless the dog develops new symptoms in the interim. If a dog has been on thyroid supplementation for some time and there is any question about the diagnosis, treatment must be discontinued for at least two months before test results will be valid. There is no apparent harm in abruptly stopping thyroid supplementation. If possible, medications known to interfere with thyroid levels should be discontinued.
Complementary Therapies
While thyroxine is safe when taken as directed, some caregivers prefer to avoid synthetic drugs and would rather use natural products whenever possible. Natural thyroid extracts made from bovine or porcine thyroid glands are used in human medicine (Armour Thyroid, Westhroid, Nature-Throid, and the Canadian product ERFA are all good choices), but because these products contain both T4 and T3 thyroid hormones, their dosages require adjustment.
Natural thyroid dosages are measured in grains (60 mg = 1 grain), and 1 grain natural thyroid extract equals 74 mcg (0.074 mg) synthetic thyroxine. Thus, 0.1 mg thyroxine equals about 1.5 grains natural thyroid, 0.2 mg thyroxine equals approximately 3 grains, and 0.3 mg thyroxine equals about 4 grains natural thyroid.
Dessicated thyroid extracts cost more than synthetics and larger amounts may be needed. Because they contain T3 as well as T4, they can help the few dogs who are unable to convert T4 to T3.
There are also non-prescription thyroid support supplements that contain thyroid glandular material from which thyroid hormones have been removed. Although these products cannot replace thyroid hormone medication in true cases of canine hypothyroidism, says Dr. Dodds, they have been used successfully to lower the prescribed dose, and may also help dogs with declining thyroid function who are not yet fully hypothyroid.
Dr. Dodds recommends Standard Process Thytrophin PMG and Standard Process Canine Thyroid Support. Other products that include glandular material among other ingredients include Metabolic Advantage Thyroid Formula, Thyroid Glandular, Bovine Thyroid Health, and Thyrosine Complex (see Resources list on page 19).
Nutrition is a key factor in treating hypothyroidism, and a high-quality diet is crucial. The most important mineral for thyroid health is iodine, which should be present in optimal amounts.
The National Research Council (NRC) recommends about 100 mcg iodine daily for a dog weighing 10 pounds, 300 mcg for a 50-pound dog, and 500 mcg for a 100-pound dog. Iodized salt contains about 105 mcg iodine per 1/4 teaspoon. (Unrefined sea salt contains trace amounts but is not a significant source of iodine.) Yogurt, eggs, and fish contain iodine, but the most important food source of this essential mineral is seaweed.
The famous herbalist Juliette de Bairacli Levy considered kelp an essential supplement for dogs and other animals. “I introduced seaweed to the veterinary world when a student in the early 1930s,” she wrote. “It was scorned then, but now it is very popular worldwide.” She credited kelp and other sea vegetables with giving dark pigment to eyes, noses, and nails, stimulating hair growth, and developing strong bones.
When adding kelp or other seaweeds to a home-prepared diet, be sure to consider their source, for plants grown in polluted waters can be contaminated by heavy metals. In 2007, researchers at the University of California/Davis found that eight out of nine kelp supplements tested contained abnormal levels of arsenic. Look for organic certification on labels and check with manufacturers regarding their testing for heavy metals and other contaminants.
Because the iodine content of kelp and other sea vegetables varies widely, there is no single dose that provides the NRC’s daily recommendation for dogs fed a home-prepared diet. If the label doesn’t provide a seaweed product’s iodine content, contact the manufacturer for that information.
Note that raw cruciferous vegetables (members of the cabbage family) can suppress thyroid function if fed in quantity. These include broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cauliflower, cabbage, kale, collard greens, and more. Another ingredient to avoid is soy, which contains isoflavones that can block the activity of thyroid peroxidase (TPO), the enzyme that helps convert T4 to T3.
A selenium deficiency can slow the conversion of T4 to T3, a problem unlikely to occur in dogs on commercial pet food but possible with home-prepared diets. Ocean fish, turkey, chicken, and beef are all significant sources of selenium, but the mineral’s wonder food is the Brazil nut. The NRC recommends 37 mcg selenium daily for 10-pound dogs and up to 207 mcg daily for dogs weighing 100 pounds. Brazil nuts contain 70 to 90 mcg selenium each, so a single Brazil nut given every few days to a small dog or every day to a large dog can be inexpensive insurance for dogs fed a home-prepared diet that might be low in selenium. Like most minerals, too much selenium can be dangerous, so don’t oversupplement.
Because adrenal exhaustion or fatigue can impair thyroid production, adrenal support supplementation may result in a marked improvement.
Diagnosing Outside the Box
It would be wonderful if every hypo-thyroid dog presented the same obvious symptoms and veterinarians never missed a diagnosis. But hypothyroid dogs come in all shapes, sizes, and conditions, and you can’t always tell just by looking. Here are seven dogs who demonstrate the wide variety of symptoms that an underactive thyroid can cause.
-Logan: Too Scared to Work
Logan is an IPWDA-certified Trailing K9 (search and rescue dog) active with ATT Search and Rescue Dogs of Virginia. A 7-year-old Golden Retriever/Malinois-mix, he lives with Joanne Kuchinski and Barry Wood in Danville, Virginia.
“After three years of training,” Kuchinski says, “Logan went from being a working fool to being afraid to get out of the car. He would sit and shake. He was scared of everything.”
She was about to retire Logan from search and rescue work when she had his thyroid tested. The result was very low normal. “The veterinarian brushed me off,” she says, “but from my research I knew that low normal might be the issue. I went to another vet who listened to my concerns and put Logan on thyroid medication. Two weeks later Logan attended a seminar and was almost back to his old self. He worked in a crowded parking lot (the same one he sat and shook in) like a champ.
“That was in February of last year,” she continues. “In May he took his International Police Working Dog Association trailing test during a thunder storm and passed it. The instructor, who saw him before and after his thyroid treatment, could not believe it was the same dog. Before his treatment we went to the beach because Logan loves water, but all he did was hide under a picnic table. The following year we went back to the same beach and he ran in the surf, chased a ball in the waves, and enjoyed himself racing all around.”
-Brodie: Slow Agility Dog? Brodie, a Labrador Retriever, has a long string of titles after his registered name (Weymouth’s Scottish Brodie, AXP, OJP, NFP, NAC, NCC, CTL3-R, CTL4-F, CTL3-H, CGC), most from agility, the sport in which he’s competed for eight years.
Despite all his titles, says Laura Williams of Old Bridge, New Jersey, Brodie was always slow, and he weighed more than she liked. “In addition,” she says, “he always seemed to have dirty ears no matter how much I cleaned them, and his toenails grew so slowly, they never seemed to need clipping.”
Brodie’s blood test results were evaluated by Dr. Jean Dodds, who determined that as a performance dog, his thyroid levels were too low. “After being put on Soloxine,” says Williams, “his coat improved to the point where friends noticed and commented, his nails needed clipping on a regular basis, his ears improved, and his weight came down from 77 to 65 pounds. I attribute all of these changes to getting his thyroid regulated. Also, his energy level improved, which carried over into the agility ring.”
Brodie turns 11 on August 5 and he currently competes at the Excellent level in AKC Agility. “I hope to keep running him as long as possible,” says Williams. “I think it helps keep him healthy.”
-Diagnosing Ruq
Ruq (which rhymes with duke and is short for Amaruq, an Inuit word for wolf) is a Eurasier living with Pam Richard in Portsmouth, New Hampshire.
“When we realized something was wrong with her,” says Richard, “we had a terrible time getting a diagnosis. Ruq’s problems included a very delicate digestive system with frequent diarrhea, plus hair loss and lethargy. She went from being a social, playful dog to being short-tempered and uninterested in play.
“The vet we were seeing did not recommend thyroid testing. I eventually took Ruq to a holistic vet and asked about her thyroid based on research I had done. Her blood was sent to Dr. Dodds, and in November 2008 she was diagnosed with hypothyroidism. We began giving her 0.4 mg of Soloxine twice a day.”
One reason it took so long for Ruq to be diagnosed was that she was never overweight. She was her heaviest at 57 pounds, only two pounds more than her optimum 55 pounds. “I think the fact that she eats a home-prepared diet may have helped keep her weight under control despite the thyroid problem,” says Richard, “but that was a disadvantage when we were looking for answers.”
By 2008, when she was finally diagnosed, Ruq had developed the symptom known as “tragic face,” and she eventually had surgery for entropion, which Richard thinks may have been a result of the change in her facial muscle structure caused by hypothyroidism.
Thanks to her medication, Ruq is once again a playful, amusing dog. She no longer suffers from chronic indigestion or diarrhea, and despite being almost eight, she acts like a puppy. “I am so happy to have my girl back!” exclaims Richard. “I have used Ruq’s story to urge people to screen their dogs for hypothyroidism, as it is so much better to receive an early diagnosis.”
-Brewser: Atypical Signs
In 2007, Brewser, a 3-year-old Alaskan Malamute belonging to Lisa Jones of Uxbridge, Massachusetts, was a sociable, happy dog who played well with other dogs and people, worked as a therapy dog, and earned titles in Rally. He was working on his AKC Companion Dog (CD) title when, according to Jones, he suddenly became dog-aggressive. “He never hurt another dog, not even in day care where they were all loose together, but he growled and snarled at them,” says Jones. “This took him out of competition. The group ‘stay,’ which had been his most solid exercise, was now impossible.”
Brewser’s veterinarian believed the changes stemmed from his breed, age, and a learned behavior from day care.
Jones removed Brewser from day care and began a painstaking process of rehabilitation by slowly building his tolerance for other dogs. She tried clicker training, but he wouldn’t eat treats, so she found other ways to reward him. Brewser’s behavior improved, and he even enjoyed the new puppy Jones got in 2009, but his appetite waned and he began to lose weight. A year later, Brewser lost interest in obedience training. His energy was low, he didn’t learn new things as quickly as he used to, and his stamina disappeared. But whenever Jones asked their veterinarian about Brewser’s thyroid, she was told that his coat was too nice for him to have thyroid issues.
In July 2011 Brewser developed a corneal ulcer. Jones took him to an ophthalmologist at Tufts University in Massachusetts. “It was a routine injury,” she says, “but I was stunned that in the few weeks since his last vet visit he had gained four pounds despite continuing to turn his nose up at food.” A week after Brewser healed, he developed a corneal ulcer in the other eye and more weight gain. “I asked the ophthalmologist if this could be the result of a disease and he said his eye looked healthy. I asked about thyroid and was once again told that his coat was too nice.”
Two weeks later Jones took Brewser to a holistic veterinarian, and his life turned around. “She said she didn’t care what his coat looked like,” says Jones. “Eye changes and appetite changes can absolutely be related to the thyroid. She drew some blood and he tested low, so low that Dr. Dodds, whom we consulted, started her comments with the word ‘Wow!’”
Brewser began taking Soloxine. Within 10 days, his leash aggression waned, his appetite returned, and he lost weight. In hindsight, Jones describes his symptoms as similar to depression. He had decreased mental alertness, difficulty concentrating, less playful behavior, was easily fatigued, suffered from sore joints, lost interest in activities he previously enjoyed, became overly sensitive to stress, displayed erratic behavior and moodiness, was fearful and anxious, lost his appetite, and experienced weight changes. In 18 months his weight went from 83 to 74 to 91 pounds.
“He is maintaining a healthy weight of 82 pounds,” says Jones, “and I no longer have to bait his food with special treats or hand-feed him. He takes treats in training and enjoys working again. He does not want to complete, most likely because I get nervous and he is sensitive to me, but we train for fun. At seven years of age, he is more like the boy I knew from birth to age three.”
-Reese: What Does Cancer Have to do With It? Reese, an 8-year-old Dachshund living with Angel Seibert in Virginia Beach, Virginia, was diagnosed with throat cancer in 2009 when she was five years old.
Reese’s veterinarian removed the tumor but left “dirty margins” in the throat area, so Reese was treated with radiation at North Carolina State Veterinary Hospital, a procedure that destroyed her thyroid gland. “No one mentioned it to me at the time,” says Seibert. “I was just happy that the cancer was gone. She gained a lot of weight and never acted as though she felt very good. I just thought she was getting old and that the radiation treatment took a toll on her.”
Reese eventually grew seriously ill. “When the vet ran tests,” says Seibert, “everything came back crazy. Her liver levels were very elevated and her pancreas was abnormal. My vet was stumped but asked if anyone had mentioned that her thyroid might be damaged by the radiation. They hadn’t, but we immediately put her on thyroid medication, and what a difference! We didn’t realize how sick she was until she started the medication. She began to play all the time and chased critters in the back yard like she had a new lease on life. She lost six pounds over the next few months and is now a happy, healthy dog.”
-Donnagan: From Friendly to Fear-Aggressive Marion Westerling of Maryville, Tennessee, adopted Donnagan, a 7-year-old mixed breed, from a rescue organization in 2005, when he was seven weeks old. “For the first two years he was an absolute joy,” she says. “He went to training class, got along with everyone, and was a great dog. Then we introduced another dog into the house. We knew it might be a little tough, but we had no idea what was coming.”
Overnight Donnagan became aggressive, viciously attacking both of the family’s other dogs – and Westerling, when she tried to break up the fights. “He bit me four times,” she says, “once putting me in the hospital with a blood infection. Everyone, including my own vet, told me he was just a vicious dog and needed to be put down.”
But Westerling knew there was something wrong with Donnagan, and she kept looking for answers. Finally she found a veterinarian who listened to her and did some blood work. “Sure enough,” she says, “hypothyroidism. Donnagan continues to have anxiety and we watch for certain triggers, but since he went on thyroid medicine, he is a different dog. Six months ago we introduced another dog to the family and after a week, he accepted her and loves her.
“It’s frustrating to me,” she continues, “that so many vets are not listening to their clients. We know our dogs and know when something is wrong. Euthanasia is not always the best answer. I own a doggy daycare and hotel, and when I see a dog come in with a lot of fear aggression, I encourage the owner to take the dog to the vet for a health checkup, especially a thyroid check. I know because I’ve been there.”
-Tillie: A Giant Sheltie?
Laura Simcox of Louisville, Kentucky, adopted Tillie, a Sheltie, from the nearby Woodstock Animal Foundation. When Tillie was first picked up in September 2008, she weighed 62 pounds, more than twice her ideal weight (see “before” photo of Tillie on page 12). She was diagnosed as hypothyroid and put on medication.
Tillie was Simcox’s Christmas present in 2008. “At that time,” she says, “Tillie was down to 50 pounds and still had ear infections but her skin issues had mostly cleared up. Over the next year she ate a low-calorie kibble. In addition to thyroxine, my veterinarian also has her on gemmotherapy, and I add a few drops of the remedy called ‘bloodtwig dogberry’ to her food.”
The plant bud remedies used in gemmotherapy, whose manufacturing methods resemble those of homeopathy, are said to stimulate the body’s excretory organs and systems and promote detoxification. Holistic veterinarians who use gemmotherapy recommend bloodtwig dogberry for the thyroid, using it as an adjunct treatment for detoxifying and strengthening the thyroid gland.
Tillie gradually increased her exercise. “She had a great desire to play fetch,” says Simcox, “and she would waddle after my other two dogs as they chased balls. She lay down when she was tired and, as the weeks went by, longer periods elapsed before she had to rest.
“Today at 25 pounds, Tillie is a beautiful shadow of her former self. When we play fetch, I tire of the game long before she does. She has earned her Canine Good Citizen title, is training in agility, and is enrolled in a therapy dog class.”
Like the other dogs described here, Tillie (seen in her “after” photo on page 13) could be a poster dog for hypothyroidism – a dog whose health problems were easily resolved once they were properly diagnosed, and whose life was transformed in the process.
CJ Puotinen lives in Montana. She is the author of The Encyclopedia of Natural Pet Care and other books and a frequent contributor to WDJ.
Mary Straus is the owner of DogAware.com. She lives with her Norwich Terrier, Ella, in the San Francisco Bay Area.
Recently we enjoyed meeting our new brother in law, and providing day care for his 4-year-old Border Collie, Sis. Arriving from northern Idaho, he was totally unprepared for the reality of traveling with a dog during a northern California heat wave. We were more than happy to offer our home and shady fenced yard to Sis so her owners could sightsee without endangering her in a hot car.
Sis proved to be a pleasure. I thought how alien this world and we must have seemed. Transported from life on the ranch bringing in cattle and following pack mules, she cheerfully and quickly adapted. She blended into our little pack, tolerating my cranky senior Australian Cattle Dog and the energy of my 6-month-old pup. Although she clearly missed her owner, she seemed content with us and even learned our family’s favorite game of “retrieve the bouncing Kong.”
Encouraged by the successes of the first day, I was relaxed on day two of her visit and went about my daily chores and routine. Then suddenly, disaster: Sis was nowhere to be seen. I called frantically to my husband and we both raced around the property in search of Sis. Then we saw her — she was outside our fences and traveling quickly up the irrigation canal. We raced out the gate and both called “SIS COME!” Without a pause, she spun on a dime and raced back to us. She seemed almost puzzled by the praise and affection party she received. I was reminded that there is no more important gift we can give our dogs than a good recall.
Resource guarding is a natural, normal canine behavior. In fact it’s a normal behavior for most warm-blooded animals. Even we humans guard our resources – sometimes quite fiercely. Think about it. We lock our doors. Store clerks have loaded .22 rifles under checkout counters, while homeowners keep shotguns and baseball bats leaning in the corner by the back door. Banks keep valuables in vaults. Some of us get insanely jealous if someone pays too much attention to our significant other.
Dogs guard their resources as well, sometimes quite fiercely. This is most troublesome when they guard from humans, but can also get them in hot water when they guard from other dogs. That said, some dog-dog guarding behavior is quite appropriate and acceptable.
As an example: In a dog park or doggie daycare, Dog A is chewing happily on a (insert any valuable resource here). Curious, Dog B approaches. Dog A gives Dog B “the look.” Dog B quickly defers, saying “Oh, excuse me!” by calmly turning and walking away. No harm done. Much of the time the dogs’ owner isn’t even aware that this occurred.
This is the ideal resource-guarding scenario. Many times, however, other, less appropriate scenarios occur.
For more advice on how to recognize the signs of resource-guarding and ways to reduce, eliminate and prevent it, purchase Whole Dog Journal’s ebook Resource Guarding.
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Enzymes given with food are used for digestion, but certain enzymes (proteases, which break down proteins) can also help with inflammation, pain, recovery from injury, and more when given apart from food. Systemic enzyme therapy, also called metabolic or proteolytic enzyme therapy, allows enzymes to enter the body where they can be used for healing rather than digestion. Examples of proteolytic enzymes include pancreatin, trypsin, and chymotrypsin (from the pancreas); bromelain (from pineapple); and papain (from papaya). Proteolytic enzymes work best for inflammation when given away from meals and combined with bioflavonoids such as quercetin or rutin (rutosid).
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BENEFITS: Systemic enzyme therapy is theorized to work by breaking down proteins in the blood that cause inflammation, and by removing fibrin, which prolongs inflammation. Proponents say that systemic enzyme therapy promotes health in every part of the body by reducing pain and inflammation, speeding healing, supporting a healthy immune system, shrinking tumors, and preventing metastasis from cancer.
Enzyme therapy may also help to prevent soreness and injury during and after exercise when taken routinely. Holistic veterinarians may prescribe systemic enzyme therapy for arthritis and other conditions involving inflammation; injuries; skin and coat problems; cancer; autoimmune disorders; and before and after surgery to reduce swelling, bruising, and pain.
Studies in the U.S. are limited, but systemic enzyme therapy has been studied and used in Germany for decades.
For example, a 2008 German review of “rigorous clinical studies” published in the journal Integrative Cancer Therapies found that “systemic enzyme therapy significantly decreased tumor-induced and therapy-induced side effects and complaints such as nausea, gastrointestinal complaints, fatigue, weight loss, and restlessness and obviously stabilized the quality of life. For plasmacytoma patients, complementary systemic enzyme therapy was shown to increase the response rates, the duration of remissions, and the overall survival times.”
CAUTIONS: Proteolytic enzymes can thin the blood and increase the risk of bleeding, especially at higher doses. Do not give to dogs with clotting disorders, gastric ulcers, or those receiving blood-thinning medications. If anemia or signs of bleeding develop, discontinue right away. High doses may cause diarrhea.
DOSAGE: Give enzyme products between meals (at least one hour before or two hours after) for systemic effects. Follow product dosage instructions, adjusting human dosage for the size of your dog. Companies that make products for both people and dogs suggest giving 3 tablets twice a day for adult humans, 3 tablets once a day for dogs weighing 51-100 pounds, 2 tablets daily for dogs weighing 21 to 50 pounds, and 1 tablet daily for dogs weighing 13 to 20 pounds. Higher doses are recommended for a variety of conditions.
RECOMMENDED SOURCES: The most popular enzyme formulas contain pancreatin, bromelain, papain, rutin, trypsin, and chymotrypsin, and are enteric coated to protect the enzymes from breaking down in the stomach. Some companies make canine versions that have the same ingredients as their human products. Products made for humans are generally more economical. Recommended sources include:
-Garden of Life’s Wobenzym N (gardenoflife.com, 866-465-0051) (Fido-Wobenzyme, the version labeled specifically for canine use, appears to have been discontinued)
-Bromelain supplements, alone and in combination with bioflavonoids and other ingredients, are available from many companies, such as Now Foods’ Quercetin with Bromelain (nowfoods.com, 888-669-3663)
Gertrude Stein might have thought that a rose is a rose is a rose, but with over a hundred species and more than a thousand named cultivars, the genus Rosa has been among the world’s most appreciated plants for millennia. And they can be appreciated by dogs, too, with numerous applications for medical, emotional, and behavioral afflictions.
Roses grow, with and without thorns, as compact or miniature varieties, trailing vines, climbing plants over 20 feet tall, and impenetrable shrubs. Their flowers range from large to small in white, pink, yellow, orange, and every shade of red. Most roses are native to Asia, while some originated in Europe, Africa, or North America. Heirloom or traditional, hybrid tea, modern, and continuously blooming roses are just a few of the choices available to gardeners today. For medicinal purposes, traditional plants are the roses of choice, for many modern hybrids lack fragrance.
Since 1985, the International Herb Association has announced its Herb of the Year during National Herb Week in May. The Herb of the Year is chosen for its aesthetic, medicinal, and/or culinary attributes. Although best known for its beauty, the rose – Herb of the Year for 2012 – has culinary and medicinal properties from which dogs as well as people benefit. There is even a dog rose! This large shrub, which grows to eight feet, is valued as rootstock for grafting hybrids and is frequently naturalized (grows wild) in North America. According to the famous herbalist Juliette de Bairacli Levy, Rosa canina received its common name because its root was a traditional treatment for rabies.
Rose Tea
The simplest herbal preparations are teas brewed from fresh or dried plant parts. Rose tea can be brewed as an infusion (steeped tea) from rose buds or petals. Simply pour 1 cup of almost-boiling water over 1 teaspoon dried or 1 tablespoon fresh organically grown rose buds or petals. Cover the container and let the tea steep for several minutes. Be sure your blossoms have a strong, pleasant rose fragrance. Skip lovely hybrids that have no scent along with pesticide-treated roses from florists.
To brew a quart of rose tea, place 11/2 teaspoons dried or 4 tablespoons fresh rose petals or buds in a 1-quart (4-cup) jar, fill with almost-boiling water, cover, and let stand. The longer it brews, the stronger the tea. To make a medicinal-strength tea, slightly increase the roses and let the tea steep until it has cooled to room temperature.
In their book All You Ever Wanted to Know About Herbs for Pets, Gregory Tilford and Mary Wulff explain that each part of the rose has a different level of astringency. “The flower petals are mildly to moderately astringent and can be made into a sweet-smelling rinse for animals with dry, itchy skin,” they say. “Petal tea is also useful for mild to moderate cases of colic and diarrhea or for minor irritations of the mouth and stomach.” The recommended dose is 1 tablespoon tea per 20 pounds of body weight as needed. Cool tea strained through a coffee filter can also be used as an anti-inflammatory eyewash, especially when dust or other environmental irritants cause redness or itching. To make the eyewash more comfortable, add a pinch of salt to give the tea a slightly saline taste, similar to human tears.
Cool or room-temperature rose tea is an effective treatment for minor wounds, such as cuts and abrasions. It can be poured directly onto skin to clean the affected area or applied as a spray.
Tilford and Wulff recommend brewing a decoction (simmered tea) from rose leaves, which are more astringent than flower petals, for use on inflamed flea or fly bites, contact dermatitis, or irritated skin. To brew a decoction, bring 2 tablespoons chopped leaves to a boil in a pint (2 cups) of water in a covered pan, simmer for 10 minutes, then remove from heat and let stand, still covered, until cool.
The leaf decoction can be used internally for acute digestive tract inflammations that may be secondary to bacterial or parasitic infections. “Internal use should be limited to acute disorders and short-term therapies (two days or less),” they caution. “Call your veterinarian immediately if internal bleeding is evident, diarrhea is persistent, or urination is labored.”
Either of these rose teas will keep for up to a week if refrigerated in a closed glass container.
Rose Vinegar
As described in the article “Sour Greats” (WDJ January 2012), herb-infused vinegar can be applied topically as an after-shampoo rinse, skin and coat treatment, ear cleaner, insect repellent, or pet deodorizer. To make a rose-infused vinegar, you will need:
-A clean glass jar or bottle with non-metallic lid.
-Enough fresh, organically grown rose petals to fill the container. (Freshly picked petals should be dry, not damp; let rose petals wilt in a dry, shady location for a day or two, which reduces moisture and increases their fragrance.)
-A sprig of flowering thyme and/or rosemary (optional).
-Apple cider vinegar.
Pack in as many rose petals as will fit into the jar or bottle, pressing them down with a wooden spoon or chopstick. Fill the container with vinegar, close the lid tightly, and turn the container upside down, which will release trapped air from the submerged rose petals. Top the container with more vinegar so that all of the plant material is completely covered. Leaving air in the jar invites mold growth, so check it every few days and add more vinegar as needed for four to six weeks.
Alternatively, purchase dried organic rose petals and add vinegar. Because dried herbs expand when rehydrated, fill the container only half full with loosely packed petals and let it stand overnight. The next day, top the container with vinegar and proceed as above.
After the vinegar has absorbed the fragrance and medicinal properties of the rose petals, it is ready to use and will keep for more than a year without refrigeration if stored away from heat and light.
If desired, strain the vinegar for storage in small bottles. Attach a label showing date and contents.
Rose vinegar can be applied full-strength or diluted with water for topical application. Rose vinegar has disinfecting properties and is an effective treatment for small wounds and itchy skin. To use as a coat conditioner, fill a plastic container with 1 cup warm or cool water, add 2 tablespoons (1 fluid ounce) rose vinegar, shake to mix, and work well into freshly rinsed hair. A plastic squeeze bottle or recycled shampoo bottle works well for this. Let the coat air-dry, blot with a towel, or rinse with plain water as desired. Because cider vinegar and red roses can stain or darken light hair, distilled white vinegar and white rose petals can be substituted for dogs with white or light coats.
Rose Aromatherapy for Dogs
Essential oils are distilled from plant parts, usually leaves or blossoms. Despite the “aroma” in “aromatherapy,” not every essential oil has an attractive fragrance, but in this category, rose is in a class by itself. Nearly all of the world’s rose oil is used in perfumes, but a small amount is sold to aromatherapists for medicinal use.
Rose essential oil is also expensive, for it takes 30 to 60 roses to produce a single drop of essential oil, or 500 pounds of rose petals to distill 1 pound (about 2 cups) of rose oil. “The terms rose otto, rose oil, and rose essential oil mean exactly the same thing,” says Marge Clark at Nature’s Gift, an aromatherapy supply company. “All are a true essential oil hydro-distilled from the petals of Rosa damascena. The best quality rose otto is grown and distilled in Bulgaria and Turkey. The Rosa damascena oils produced in other countries simply do not measure up.”
Rose absolute, which is known for its true rose fragrance, is extracted with solvents such as hexane, and supercritical carbon dioxide extraction produces rose oil under pressure at low temperatures. Some aromatherapy supply companies sell rose absolute and CO2-extracted rose oil to consumers, but they are less common than distilled rose oil.
Rose has long been associated with spirituality, and some claim that rose exhibits the highest vibration of any essential oil, giving it a special affinity with the heart and the emotional spheres of mind, body, and spirit.
According to Clark, rose is the ultimate woman’s oil. “It is calming and supportive,” she says. “In my experience nothing strengthens a woman’s spirit as well as true rose oil. Rose has no parallel in treating grief, hysteria, or depression. It is believed by many to help balance female hormones, regulate the menstrual cycle, and ease the discomforts of PMS and menopause. In Europe it is used to treat genito-urinary infections.”
In her book Holistic Aromatherapy for Animals, Kristen Leigh Bell writes, “Rose is also stabilizing to the central nervous system, making it a suitable addition to blends for fearful animals. The oil has a gentle tonifying effect on the skin, and I like to add a small amount to blends for itchy, irritated, or dry skin.”
Another benefit that rose oil shares with other rose-fragranced plants, such as rose geranium (Pelargonium graveolens) and palmarosa (Cymbopogon martini) is that ticks dislike its scent, making rose a natural tick repellent.
But because of its expense (Bulgarian rose otto costs up to $100 or more for 2 milliliters, slightly less than 1/2 teaspoon), you’re not likely to find pure, therapeutic-quality rose oil in your pet supply store.
This doesn’t mean that rose oil does not belong in your pet’s life. In fact, most aromatherapists rate it as “essential,” and Bell considers it one of her “top 20 must-have essential oils” for pets.
Fortunately, the oil is so concentrated that even a tiny amount, such as a single drop of rose oil in a fluid ounce (2 tablespoons) of carrier oil, will still have an effect. Most carrier oils used in aromatherapy are cold-pressed organic vegetable oils such as almond, peach kernel, or jojoba.
The general rule for canine use is to mix 1 teaspoon carrier oil with 3 to 5 drops essential oil; or 1 tablespoon (1/2 ounce) carrier oil with 10 to 15 drops essential oil. Use measuring spoons, not tableware, to measure carrier oils; use an eyedropper or an essential oil bottle’s built-in dispenser to measure drops.
Experiment to see what concentrations agree with your dog. Years ago while living in New York, I interviewed herbalist Barbara Hall about her experiments with ticks (which she removed from her cat!) and various herbs that were considered tick repellents. Of the herbs she tested, only rose geranium repelled the ticks, which turned somersaults to escape from it. At the time, Samantha, my Labrador Retriever, and her friend Hobbes, a Golden Retriever, were picking up deer and dog ticks almost every day on our walks in the woods.
Inspired, I tried rose geranium, palmarosa, and rose essential oils in separate experiments, placing a single drop on each dog’s scarf or collar and later diluting essential oils for spraying. All rose-scented applications reduced the tick attacks, but each required an adjustment period during which the dogs seemed to lose their sense of smell! For a day or two they would chase a tennis ball in tall grass and not be able to find it even when standing on top of it.
There was also no denying that Hobbes did not enjoy smelling like a rose, as he searched out green manure and deer droppings to roll in. (I switched to other methods for him.) It’s a good idea to start slowly with extremely diluted rose oil – or any rose-scented product – long before attending nose work, utility, or tracking sessions or trials.
Because essential oils are not water-soluble, diluting them in water requires an extra step. If you mix an essential oil with vodka or any other grain alcohol (do not use rubbing alcohol, which is distilled from wood), sulfated castor oil (available from some aromatherapy supply companies), or vegetable glycerin, you can add water and the oil will disperse.
Bell combines these ingredients in several formulas, including her aromatic cleansing spray, which begins with a base of 1 teaspoon vegetable glycerin, 1 tablespoon vodka, 1 teaspoon sulfated castor oil, and 2 tablespoons aloe vera. Up to 16 drops essential oil can be mixed with this base before adding 6 ounces (3/4 cup) distilled or spring water. Her floral blend contains 4 drops lavender (Lavandula angustifolia), 2 drops ylang ylang (Cananga odorata), 4 drops rose (Rosa damascena), and 6 drops petitgrain (Citrus auranthum) essential oils. Or use rose oil by itself, starting with 4 to 8 drops and adding more as needed. Shake well before using.
Another way to dilute rose oil is in shampoo or liquid soap. Try adding 5 to 10 drops of rose oil to 8 ounces (1 cup) unscented natural shampoo, or add a drop to shampoo as you bathe your dog. Rinse well and follow, if desired, with a rose tea or rose vinegar final rinse.
One of the most efficient and cost-effective ways to use rose essential oil is in a diffuser. As Bell explains, “A nebulizing diffuser is one tool that no aromatherapy-prone home should be without. Especially one that houses pets!”
It’s true that the fragrance of an essential oil can be released by heat, such as from a light bulb or candle, but the chemical components of essential oils have differing volatility, so that some evaporate faster than others. The best way to disperse essential oils for therapeutic use, says Bell, is without heat, and diffusing is the safest way to use any full-strength oil.
A nebulizing diffuser consists of a glass bulb attached to a small air pump like those used in aquariums. A small air current and the pump’s vibration ionize complete particles of essential oil, releasing this suspension in the air. Rose essential oil or blends containing rose create a calming, uplifting environment, and they deodorize at the same time. Rose is highly recommended for dogs recovering from emotional trauma, illness, or injury. Setting the nebulizer on a timer releases essential oil throughout the day, which is especially helpful to dogs with separation anxiety.
To treat the air without the aid of a diffuser, fill a spray bottle with 4 to 6 ounces (1/2 to 3/4 cup) water and add 4 drops rose oil. Shake the bottle vigorously before spraying the air. Aim the spray away from furniture, pets, and people. Add a few more drops for a stronger fragrance if desired.
Hydrosols
Hydrosols or hydrolats, the flower waters produced during steam distillation, are far less expensive than essential oils. Organic rose hydrosol from Bulgaria costs less than $20 for 1/2 cup (4 fluid ounces).
Hydrosols are 20 to 30 times stronger than herbal teas brewed from the same plants, and they provide most of the benefits found in essential oils with fewer risks. Safety is crucial with regard to pets, which is why hydrosols are highly recommended for pet use.
The downside of using hydrosols is that they have a limited shelf life (typically one year), are not widely sold (the freshest, highest-quality hydrosols are usually from online or mail-order suppliers), and require refrigeration.
Rose hydrosol, better known as rosewater, may be unfamiliar to Americans today, but a hundred years ago, rosewater was widely sold for culinary and cosmetic uses. The first popular hand lotion was rosewater and glycerin (it’s still available), and rosewater adds a lovely flavor to desserts, confections, and traditional Middle Eastern foods.
In her book Hydrosols: The Next Aromatherapy, Suzanne Catty describes rose hydrosol as a powerful substance. “It smells exactly like a fresh rose,” she says. “Undiluted, the flavor is dramatic and overwhelming – far too strong – but in dilution, its intense floral nature becomes delicate, ethereal, and quite delicious. Once you have smelled and tasted real rose hydrosol, you will instantly recognize artificial rosewater.”
Rosewater is more stable than most hydrosols, she reports, with a shelf life of two years or more, though this depends on its quality. “Rose hydrosol made from dried petals starts to lose its fragrance at around 10 to 12 months,” she says, “and the flavor is less intense from the outset.”
Rose hydrosol can be sprayed full-strength on a dog’s wet coat and then brushed or massaged in; diluted with an equal part of water, or more, before being sprayed or applied to the coat; or simply sprayed or applied as a tick repellent. “Its moisture-retaining nature makes it a good choice for the traveler,” says Catty, “and its mild antiseptic and cooling properties make it useful for many first-aid applications.”
For more about hydrosols, see “Canines in a Mist,” WDJ April 2005.
Rose Hips
Rose hips, the reddish, round berries that develop after rose petals fall from their stems in late summer, are a significant source of vitamin C. They also contain vitamins A and B, essential fatty acids, and antioxidants such as lycopene. Many dogs love the taste of fresh rose hips and harvest them from rose bushes themselves.
Dried rose hips can be ground in a coffee grinder and added at the rate of 1/2 to 1 teaspoon powdered rose hips per cup of food. Too much can cause stomach upset or diarrhea, so start with a small amount and increase gradually, or simply cut back if your dog develops symptoms.
If you have access to rose hips from a safe (not pesticide-treated) source, you can cut them in half and spread them on a rack or paper-lined cookie sheet to dry, or thread a needle with white cotton thread and string the rose hips with spaces between them to hasten drying. When the hips are completely dry, unstring them, cut them in half, and toss any that have mold inside or out.
Thanks to Danish farmer Erik Hansen, who discovered 20 years ago that rose hips alleviated his joint pain, rose hip powder has become a popular supplement in Europe for the treatment of arthritis. So far seven scientific studies of over 300 participants have been published in the medical literature, four of which are randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled clinical trials. Participants receiving rose hips reported improved joint comfort and flexibility, higher energy levels, and an improved sense of well being.
Hansen’s products (LitoZin® and i-flex®) are made from the hips of organically raised Rosa canina. Rose hip powder has not been clinically tested in dogs, but many users report giving it to their arthritic canine companions with excellent results. Rose hip seed powder is available from a growing number of supplement manufacturers.
Rose Hip Seed Oil
Pressed from the seeds of rose hips, usually Rosa moschata or Rosa rubiginosa from the Andes Mountains, rose hip seed oil contains vitamins and essential fatty acids whose skin-healing properties make it a popular cosmetic ingredient. Rose hip seed oil, which is sold in most natural food stores, speeds the healing of dermatitis, burns, and scars, and it is an effective treatment for dry, brittle, damaged hair and nails. Rose hip seed oil is light yellow to orange in color, and it can stain clothing or light-colored hair, though it is so quickly absorbed by the skin that precise application to scars or wounds is unlikely to damage white or light-colored coats. The oil is so delicate that it should be kept refrigerated in a closed container, protected from exposure to heat, light, and air.
Although used by Chile’s native people for centuries, rose hip seed oil has been available in the U.S. for just a few decades. In 1983, researchers at the University of Santiago in Chile tested rose hip seed oil on 180 people with extensive facial scarring, acne scarring, deep wrinkles, sun damage, radiation damage, burn scars, surgical scars, premature aging, dermatitis, and other skin-related problems.
In these tests, rose hip seed oil regenerated the skin, reduced scars and wrinkles, prevented the advancement of wrinkles and aging, and helped skin regain its natural color and tone. Subsequent research at other universities verified these results, and rose hip seed oil is now a popular ingredient in products that treat premature aging and sun damage.
How can it help your dog? Because rose hip seed oil speeds the healing of damaged tissue, it can be applied directly to new or old scars, wounds, abrasions, and nails that break or split. But its most widespread canine application is as a coat conditioner, for rose hip seed oil helps strengthen and repair damaged hair. To use it full-strength, simply apply rose hip seed oil to your hands, rub your palms together to create a light layer of oil, and stroke your dog’s coat in all directions. Try this while the coat is still damp after bathing or swimming to distribute the oil more evenly.
Another way to take advantage of rose hip seed oil’s coat-improving attributes is to add it to your favorite oil or conditioner. For example, argan oil, pressed from the seeds of the Middle Eastern plant Argania spinosa and better known as Moroccan oil, has become a popular human hair treatment. Rose hip seed oil can be blended with argan oil and applied to towel-dried hair for soft, shiny results. Rose hip seed oil can be added to most leave-on conditioners with excellent results. Start with a 5- to 10-percent addition and experiment. Diluted rose hip seed oil should be safe for use on even white or light-colored dogs.
Rose hip seed oil can be added to rose vinegar or rose hydrosol in a spray container, shaken immediately before use, and sprayed onto the dog’s coat. The oil and water will separate, but spraying delivers both ingredients, which can be worked or brushed into the coat.
Rose hip seed oil is well tolerated and safe for sensitive skin. It is considered a “dry” oil, meaning that it soaks into the skin easily, and does not leave a greasy residue. It penetrates dry or damaged skin immediately. Rose hip seed oil is sold in ball-point vials (for human skin application) in natural food markets.
Rose Flower Essence
Flower essences, also called flower remedies, are very different from herbal teas and extracts. Like homeopathic remedies, they contain little or none of the material used to produce them. Instead, they store a plant’s “vibration” or “imprint,” which in turn affects the user’s energy. These vibrations or imprints are said to act directly on the emotions. Flower essences have no floral fragrance.
Flower essences made from roses are said to support and protect the heart from emotional pain and trauma, to foster resilience and endurance, and to help ground the individual, calm the mind, and deepen one’s spiritual vision. Rose flower essences have helped dogs adapt to changes in residence, environment, or family structure; overcome separation anxiety; regain enthusiasm for life’s adventures; and relax in stressful situations, such as when being groomed, visiting the veterinarian, meeting new dogs, attending obedience class, or living in a shelter or foster home.
Like all flower remedies, rose flower essence can be applied directly from the stock bottle, a drop or two at a time, directly into the dog’s mouth, massaged into the gums, applied to the nose or paw pads, or applied to bare skin on the abdomen or ears. Alternatively, place 12 drops rose flower essence in a 4-ounce spray bottle filled with distilled or filtered water. Spray the solution into the air, on the dog’s bedding, and all over the dog, including on her gums, paw pads, nose, and abdomen, and inside the ears as well as on the coat before brushing or rubbing it in. Flower essences can also be placed on dog treats and added to food and water.
The key to success with flower essences is frequency of application, as often as once an hour if possible, or at least four or five times per day. For more about flower essences, see “More Good Energy,” WDJ November 2007.
Grow Your Own!
If you’d like to have your own source of pesticide-free roses and rose hips, try growing your own. Roses need at least six hours of direct sunlight daily, minimal root competition from nearby trees, a soil pH of approximately 6.5, good air circulation, and deeply dug soil containing ample organic matter.
Garden centers, organizations devoted to roses, and books like the IHA’s Rose (Rosa): Herb of the Year 2012 offer tips on growing, fertilizing, pruning, and care.
CJ Puotinen lives in Montana. She is the author of The Encyclopedia of Natural Pet Care and other books and a frequent contributor to WDJ.
1. Feed your dog a wide variety of foods from different food groups.
2. Make sure you supplement your dog’s homemade diet with calcium unless you feed raw meaty bones.
3. Stick to lean meats and remove skin from the poultry you feed unless your dog is highly active.
4. Keep in mind that the less variety of foods you feed, the more important supplements become.
5. Review your homemade dog food diet plan with a veterinarian for approval.
In the past few issues of Whole Dog Journal, I have offered critiques on homemade dog food diets in order to address the dog’s health concerns – or simply to optimize the dog’s diet plan. To do this, I analyzed the cooked and raw homemade dog food diets and compared them to the National Research Council’s guidelines for canine nutrition. I want to be clear, though: I don’t believe this is a requirement for feeding home-cooked dog food. Just as with the diet you feed yourself and your family, feeding a wide variety of healthy foods in appropriate proportions should meet the needs of most healthy dogs. The best diet for dogs, in effect, is a diverse diet.
Problems arise with how healthy dog food is interpreted. Too often, people think that they’re feeding healthy homemade dog food, when key ingredients may be missing or are fed in excess. Here’s how to make dog food at home, and specific guidelines to help ensure that the dog food diet you feed meets your individual dog’s requirements. You do not want just one dog food recipe to follow – you need several, and need to be comfortable mixing and matching ingredients, for reasons explained below.
Complete and Balanced Dog Food Diets
It’s important homemade dog food is “complete and balanced,” meaning it meets all of the dog’s nutritional needs. It is not important, however, that every meal be complete and balanced, unless you feed the same meal every day with little or no variation.
Home-prepared dog diets that include a wide variety of foods fed at different meals rely on balance over time, not at every meal. Similar to the way humans eat, as long as your dog gets everything he needs spread out over each week or two, his diet will be complete and balanced.
A human nutritionist would never expect someone to follow a single recipe with no variation, as veterinary nutritionists routinely do. Instead, a human would be given guidelines in terms of food groups and portion sizes. As long as your dog doesn’t have a health problem that requires a very specific diet, homemade dog food should be the same way.
Keep in mind that puppies are more susceptible to problems caused by nutritional deficiencies or excesses than adult dogs are. Large-breed puppies are particularly at risk from too much calcium prior to puberty. See “Puppy Food: Nutritional Guidelines to Maximize Health,” for more on puppy nutrition.
GUIDELINES TO CREATING BALANCED HOMEMADE DOG FOOD RECIPES
Following are guidelines for feeding a raw or cooked home-prepared diet to healthy dogs. No single type of food, such as chicken, should ever make up more than half the diet.
Except where specified, homemade food for dogs can be fed either raw or cooked. Leftovers from your table can be included as long as they’re foods you would eat yourself, not fatty scraps.
Meat and Other Animal Products: Should always make up at least half of the diet. A raw diet for dogs can be excessively high in fat, which can lead to obesity. Another potential hazard of diets containing too much fat: If an owner restricts the amount fed (in order to control the dog’s weight) too much, the dog may suffer deficiencies of other required nutrients.
Unless your dog gets regular, intense exercise, use lean meats (no more than 10 percent fat), remove skin from poultry, and cut off separable fat. It’s better to feed dark meat poultry than breast, however, unless your dog requires a very low-fat diet.
Raw Meaty Bones (optional): If you choose to feed them, RMBs should make up one third to one half of the total diet. Use the lower end of the range if you feed bony parts such as chicken necks and backs, but you can feed more if you’re using primarily meatier parts such as chicken thighs. Never feed cooked bones. Read a full report on raw meaty bones here.
Boneless Meat: Include both poultry and red meat. Heart is a good choice, as it is lean and often less expensive than other muscle meats.
Fish: Provides vitamin D, which otherwise should be supplemented. Canned fish with bones, such as sardines (packed in water, not oil), jack mackerel, and pink salmon, are good choices. Remove bones from fish you cook yourself, and never feed raw Pacific salmon, trout, or related species. You can feed small amounts of fish daily, or larger amounts once or twice a week. The total amount should be about one ounce of fish per pound of other meats (including RMBs).
Organs: Liver should make up roughly 5 percent of this category, or about one ounce of liver per pound of other animal products. Beef liver is especially nutritious, but include chicken or other types of liver at least occasionally as well. Feeding small amounts of liver daily or every other day is preferable to feeding larger amounts less often.
Eggs: Highly nutritious addition to any diet. Dogs weighing about 20 pounds can have a whole egg every day, but give less to smaller dogs.
Dairy: Plain yogurt and kefir are well tolerated by most dogs (try goat’s milk products if you see problems). Cottage and ricotta cheese are also good options. Limit other forms of cheese, as most are high in fat.
Fruits and Vegetables: While not a significant part of the evolutionary diet of the dog and wolf, fruits and vegetables provide fiber that supports digestive health, as well as antioxidants and other beneficial nutrients that contribute to health and longevity. Deeply colored vegetables and fruits are the most nutritious.
Starchy Vegetables: Veggies such as potatoes, sweet potatoes, and winter squashes (including pumpkin), as well as legumes (beans), provide carbohydrate calories that can be helpful in reducing food costs and keeping weight on skinny and very active dogs. Quantities should be limited for overweight dogs. Starchy foods must be cooked in order to be digestible.
Leafy Green and Other Non-Starchy Vegetables: These are low in calories and can be fed in any quantity desired. Too much can cause gas, and raw, cruciferous veggies such as broccoli and cauliflower can suppress thyroid function (cook them if you feed large amounts). Raw vegetables must be pureed in a food processor, blender, or juicer in order to be digested properly by dogs, though whole raw veggies are not harmful and can be used as treats.
And while you’re preparing these nutritious foods for your dog, consider boosting your own health by adding more veggies to your diet too!
Fruits: Bananas, apples, berries, melon, and papaya are good choices. Avoid grapes and raisins, which can cause kidney failure in dogs.
Grains: Controversial, as they may contribute to inflammation caused by allergies, arthritis, or inflammatory bowel disease (IBD); as well as seizures and other problems (it’s not clear whether starchy vegetables do the same). Some grains contain gluten that may cause digestive problems for certain dogs. Many dogs do fine with grains, however, and they can be used to reduce the overall cost of feeding a homemade diet.
Grains and starchy veggies should make up no more than half the diet. Good choices include oatmeal, brown rice, quinoa, barley, and pasta. White rice can be used to settle an upset stomach, particularly if overcooked with extra water, but it’s low in nutrition and should not make up a large part of the diet. All grains must be well cooked.
DIETARY SUPPLEMENTS FOR HOME-FED DOGS
Some supplements are required in addition to natural food for dogs. Others may be needed if you are not able to feed a variety of foods, or if you leave out one or more of the food groups above. In addition, the longer food is cooked or frozen, the more nutrients are lost. Here are some dog supplements to consider:
Calcium
Unless you feed RMBs, all homemade diets must be supplemented with calcium. The amount found in multivitamin and mineral supplements is not enough. Give 800 to 1,000 mg calcium per pound of food (excluding non-starchy vegetables). You can use any form of plain calcium, including eggshells ground to powder in a clean coffee grinder (1/2 teaspoon eggshell powder provides about 1,000 mg calcium). Animal Essentials‘ Seaweed Calcium provides additional minerals, as well. And here is a good list of calcium-rich foods your dog may like. Just please note this list is for humans and includes orange juice, which is not a good thing to give your dog as the acidity can cause stomach upset.
Oils
Most homemade diets require added oils for fat, calories, and to supply particular nutrients. It’s important to use the right types of oils, as each supplies different nutrients.
Fish Oil: Fish oil for dogs provides EPA and DHA, omega-3 fatty acids that help to regulate the immune system and reduce inflammation. Give an amount that provides about 300 mg EPA and DHA combined per 20 to 30 pounds of body weight on days you don’t feed fish. Note that liquid fish oil supplements often tell you to give much more than this, which can result in too many calories from fat.
Cod Liver Oil: Provides vitamins A and D as well as EPA and DHA. If you don’t feed much fish, give cod liver oil in an amount that provides about 400 IUs vitamin D daily for a 100-pound dog (proportionately less for smaller dogs). Can be combined with other fish oil to increase the amount of EPA and DHA if desired.
Plant Oils: If you don’t feed much poultry fat, found in dark meat and skin, linoleic acid, an essential omega-6 fatty acid, may be insufficient. You can use walnut, hempseed, corn, vegetable (soybean), or high-linoleic safflower oil to supply linoleic acid if needed. Add about one teaspoon of oil per pound of meat and other animal products, or twice that amount if using canola or sunflower oil. Olive oil and high-oleic safflower oil are low in omega-6 and cannot be used as a substitute, although small amounts can be added to supply fat if needed. Coconut oil provides mostly saturated fats, and can be used in addition to but not as a replacement for other oils.
Other Vitamins and Minerals
In addition to vitamin D discussed above, certain vitamins and minerals may be short in some homemade diets, particularly those that don’t include organ meats or vegetables. The more limited the diet that you feed, the more important supplements become, but even highly varied diets are likely to be light in a few areas.
Vitamin E: All homemade diets I’ve analyzed have been short on vitamin E, and the need for vitamin E increases when you supplement with oils. Too much vitamin E, however, may be counterproductive. Give 1 to 2 IUs per pound of body weight daily.
Iodine: Too much or too little iodine can suppress thyroid function, and it’s hard to know how much is in the diet. A 50-pound dog needs about 300 mcg (micrograms) of iodine daily. Kelp is high in iodine, though the amount varies considerably among supplements.
Multivitamin and mineral supplements: A multivitamin and mineral supplement will help to meet most requirements, including iodine and vitamins D and E, but it’s important not to over supplement minerals. If using the one-a-day type of human supplements, such as Centrum for Adults under 50, give one per 40 to 50 pounds of body weight daily. Note that most supplements made for dogs provide a reasonable amount of vitamins but are low in minerals, and so won’t make up for deficiencies in the diet. Be cautious with small dogs; I’ve seen some supplements that recommend the same dosage for 10-pound dogs as for those weighing 50 or even 100 pounds. In those cases, the dosage is usually too high for the small dogs and should be reduced. Products made for humans are also inappropriate for small dogs.
Green Blends: Often containing alfalfa and various herbs, green blends may be especially helpful if you don’t include many green vegetables in your dog’s diet. You can also use a pre-mix that includes alfalfa and vegetables, such as The Honest Kitchen‘s Preference. Note most pre-mixes also supply calcium, so you should reduce or eliminate calcium supplements, depending on how much of the pre-mix you use.
Mary Straus is the owner of DogAware.com. Contact her via her website if you would like to submit a diet to be critiqued.
I recently fostered a dog who first greeted me at the shelter that I sprung her from by jumping up on me. I spent the first two days with her almost exclusively working on preventing her from jumping. When I introduced her to a friend, my friend immediately held her arms out and greeted the dog’s enthusiastic jump up with a big hug, petting, and cooing
