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Dog Food for Sensitive Stomachs

By
Dr. Mary Cope, PhD
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1
Dogs with sensitive stomachs may become ill after eating food that irritates their digestive tract.
When our dog gets sick after eating or doesn’t want to eat, many of us try different locations, new bowls, varied foods, all usually with little success. Start with a checkup with your veterinarian then, if all is well, use the suggestions in this article to zero in on the right food. Credit: Bochimsang | Getty Images

For dogs with sensitive stomachs, meals can cause discomfort and distress. Digestive issues can negatively impact our pet’s quality of life and leave many owners searching for a solution to help alleviate their dog’s digestive issues. Fortunately, a lot of options exist for finding the right dog food for your dog.

What Is a “Sensitive Stomach”?

The term “sensitive stomach” refers to a variety of gastrointestinal issues that can impact dogs of all breeds, age, and size.

Common symptoms of sensitivities include:

  • Vomiting
  • Diarrhea
  • Loss of appetite
  • Gas
  • Bloating
  • Abdominal discomfort

While the underlying cause of sensitive stomachs can vary, potential factors may include food sensitivities or allergies, dietary changes, stress, gastrointestinal illness, and underlying medical conditions. If your dog is displaying chronic digestive issues, have him evaluated by your veterinarian to first rule out treatable illnesses or medical conditions.

Choosing the Right Dog Food

If illness is not to blame for the digestive upset, many owners and veterinarians turn to diet modification to try to alleviate symptoms. But what is the best dog food for dogs with sensitive stomachs? Choosing the right diet can be tricky, solid strategies to help you find the right food for your dog, include:

Highly Digestible Ingredients: When looking for food for dogs with sensitive stomachs, be sure to prioritize diets made with highly digestible ingredients. Select a diet made with high-quality proteins, fats, and carbohydrates, and try to avoid foods that utilize artificial additives and preservatives, as these ingredients can be harder for sensitive stomachs to tolerate.

Limited Ingredients: Many dogs with sensitive stomachs can benefit from diets that are made using limited ingredients. These diets typically contain a small number of high quality, readily digestible ingredients that may help reduce the risk of triggering digestive upset.

Novel Protein Source: These diets also often feature novel protein sources, which can be beneficial for sensitive dogs. Many food-related sensitivities are linked to intolerances to the protein source that is used.  Novel protein sources, such as venison, kangaroo, alligator, duck, and rabbit, are less likely to elicit an allergic response compared to conventional proteins like chicken, beef, and lamb.

Hydrolyzed Proteins: As well as novel proteins, hydrolyzed proteins may be used. Hydrolyzed proteins have undergone processing to break them apart into smaller, highly digestible components. These smaller components, amino acids and peptides, are less likely to trigger digestive upset in dogs with sensitive stomachs.

Supplementing Probiotics

Probiotic supplementation can help maintain digestive health and alleviate symptoms often associated with sensitive stomachs. Probiotics are live microorganisms, often referred to as “good bacteria,” that confer health benefits to the host animal when consumed. Probiotics help to maintain a healthy balance of gut bacteria, which can be disrupted in dogs with sensitive stomachs.

Probiotic supplementation can:

  • Restore the healthy balance in the gut by increasing the populations of beneficial strains and suppressing the harmful bacteria populations that can contribute to gastrointestinal upset.
  • Reduce the severity and frequency of gastrointestinal upset in dogs and promote smoother digestion by supporting the breakdown and absorption of nutrients from food.
  • Support immune function, with about 70% of the immune system located in the gut. Probiotics can function as immune modulators, reducing inflammation and potentially alleviating symptoms associated with food sensitivities.

Finding Probiotics for Your Dog

Some high-quality dog foods are formulated with added probiotics already in them; however, many owners opt for a probiotic supplement for their pet.

When selecting a probiotic for your dog, consider the strain and species. Probiotic species such as Bifidobacterium animalis, Enterococcus faecium, Lactobacillus acidophilus, and Lactobacillus rhamnosus, among others, that have been shown to be beneficial for digestion and GI upset.

When using probiotics, remember that long-term use is key to their efficacy. It takes time for the probiotic colonies to become established, outcompete the harmful bacterial colonies, and pass along benefits to our pets. Continued supplementation can ensure their health and stability in dogs, as can prebiotic fiber supplementation.

A word about prebiotic fibers: Prebiotic fiber can be added to the diet to support the health of beneficial bacteria (probiotics) living in the gut by providing them with a food source. By promoting the growth and activity of the probiotic bacteria, prebiotic fiber helps to maintain a healthy gut microbiome, which can alleviate digestive issues such as diarrhea, constipation, and gas. A gut microbiome facilitated by prebiotic fiber supplementation supports better digestion, absorption of nutrients by the dog, and overall improved immune function. Look for food that contains added prebiotic fibers such as Fructooligosaccharides (FOS) or chicory root (a source of inulin). Other ingredients, such as oats, barley, and sweet potatoes are natural sources of fibers that support digestive health.

When choosing a supplement for your dog, Whole Dog Journal recommends looking for the seal of the National Animal Supplement Council (NASC) to best ensure the product you’re considering contains what the label claims.

Commercial Diets

A variety of diets on the market are formulated specifically for dogs with sensitive stomachs. These diets often incorporate one or more of the strategies discussed in this article. In general, these diets are formulated to be highly digestible and often incorporate prebiotic fibers, probiotics, contain limited ingredients, and often use a single protein source. Depending on the manufacturer, feeding trials and clinical studies may have been performed to show efficacy.

In severe cases, veterinary-formulated diets may be necessary to manage symptoms and provide relief for dogs with sensitive stomachs. These vet-recommended diets are formulated to address underlying digestive issues or medical conditions and may require a prescription.

The Healthiest Food for Sensitive Stomachs

For dogs with sensitive stomachs, finding the right food is essential for supporting their health, wellbeing, and quality of life. Selecting foods that are easily digestible, contain novel proteins, use limited ingredients, and utilize a single protein source may help to reduce the chance that your pet reacts negatively to them.

However, remember that every dog is an individual and a variety of strategies may be needed to properly manage symptoms. If you think your dog is having difficulties with a sensitive stomach, a change in diet may make all the difference. As always, a consultation with your veterinarian may save you time and money in determining the best strategy to meet your dog’s individual needs.

Subscribers can consult our dog food databases online and search for foods that contain specific ingredients. We have databases for dry, wet, and freeze-dried/dehydrated foods.

Is Liver Good for Dogs?

By
Dr. Mary Cope, PhD
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0
Liver is good for dogs in moderation.
One concern with feeding liver to dog is where the liver came from. For example, beef liver contains more vitamin A than poultry liver. Credit: Mauinow1 | Getty Images

Liver is often touted as a nutritional powerhouse for dogs that is packed with essential vitamins and minerals that can provide numerous health benefits. However, too much of a good thing can be harmful, so this organ meat may not be the best choice for your dog. Understanding the pros and cons of feeding liver can help you to make an informed decision about incorporating this organ meat into your dog’s diet.

Nutrients in Liver

Dogs can eat liver, and it is one of the most nutrient-dense organ meats available. It is particularly high in vitamins A, D, E, and K as well as multiple B vitamins. These vitamins pay crucial roles in immune function, vision, and energy metabolism. Liver is also an excellent source of essential minerals including iron, zinc, copper, and selenium, important for various bodily functions including oxygen transport, enzymatic activity, and defense against oxidation.

Liver contains highly digestible, high-quality protein for dogs that can support cellular repair, muscle growth, and immune function. Many dogs find liver palatable, and it can be a beneficial addition for dogs that have a low appetite and need encouragement to eat.

Risks with Liver for Dogs

Despite liver’s nutritional benefits, some risks come with feeding liver, depending on the species the liver is sourced from and the amount that is fed.

Vitamins fall into two main categories, fat-soluble and water-soluble. Excess amounts of water-soluble vitamins are flushed from the body and excreted in the urine, whereas fat-soluble vitamins are stored in the body and overconsumption can lead to dangerous toxicities. Of the fat-soluble vitamins (A, D, E, and K), vitamins A and D are of the highest concern when it comes to dogs.

Liver, specifically the liver of long-lived or ruminant animals, such as cows, sheep, and goats (specifically those that have been grass fed), can have very high levels of vitamin A. Feeding too much liver can lead to vitamin A toxicity (hypervitaminosis A), which can cause bone abnormalities, joint pain, nausea, weakness, convulsions, paralysis, and, in extreme cases, death.

The liver is also responsible for filtering and metabolizing toxins within the animal. Because of this function, it can accumulate toxins and contaminants from the animal’s diet or environment. Longer-lived animals have the potential to accumulate higher levels of toxins than livestock animals that reach market weight quickly, such as poultry.

How to Safely Feed Liver to Your Dog

When feeding your dog liver, moderation is key. As a general guideline, liver should make up no more than 5% to 10% of your dog’s diet. The species from which the liver is from also matters. Beef liver is more likely to be higher in vitamin A than poultry liver. Rotating the species that you source liver for your dog from can help to not only add some variety, but also mitigate some of the risks.

Liver can be a beneficial addition to your dog’s diet, providing multiple essential nutrients for your furry friend. However, it is essential to feed liver in moderation to mitigate some of the potential risks, such as vitamin A toxicity and contaminants. By understanding both the benefits and potential risks, you can make an informed decision to help ensure your pet receives a balanced and nutritious diet that meets their specific needs.

Subscribers can consult our dog food databases online and search for foods that contain specific ingredients. We have databases for dry, wet, and freeze-dried/dehydrated foods.

Doxycycline Is Not Best for Kennel Cough

By
Dr. Debra M. Eldredge, DVM
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Treating kennel cough with doxycycline is not the best option.
: If your dog socializes with other dogs, a vaccination for kennel cough may be a wise choice. If he isn’t vaccinated and develops a cough, consult your veterinarian rather than reaching for doxycycline. Credit: Foto Zlatko | Getty Images

Over the weekend, your dog mingled with lots of other canine friends, and now he is coughing, honking like the cough associated with kennel cough. You may remember that you have some leftover antibiotics, like doxycycline, on hand and wonder if it will help. No! This is not a great idea for multiple reasons.

Many, if not most, cases of kennel cough are primarily viral. Doxycycline is an antibiotic, which means it only treats bacterial infection—and only susceptible bacterial infections at that, like bartonella. Giving your dog doxycycline for kennel cough will not help and may contribute to the development of antibiotic-resistant bacteria.

Doxycycline Side Effects

In some illnesses, doxycycline is by far the best antibiotic choice, and your veterinarian will prescribe it. Most side effects are related to the gastrointestinal tract. Even if given with food, doxy may cause vomiting, diarrhea, or anorexia (not wanting to eat) in a dog. Liver enzymes may increase. Doxycycline should only be used with caution for a dog with any sort of liver problem.

Note: Avoid doxy for growing puppies and pregnant dogs as well due to effects on developing bones and teeth.

Almost all medications have some interactions with other drugs, and doxy is no different. Doxycycline can interfere with antacids and phenobarbital, which is given for seizures. If your dog is on these medications, your veterinarian will help you with a dosing schedule that can work around these problems.

Help For Kennel Cough

Back to your coughing dog! Most cases of “kennel cough” or canine infectious respiratory disease complex (CIRDC) will have multiple pathogenic agents involved. The most common are Bordetella bronchiseptica (a bacteria), parainfluenza virus, herpesvirus, adenovirus, and mycoplasma.

Dogs with uncomplicated kennel cough tend to have a dry, “honking” cough. They usually sound much worse than they feel. The cough is exacerbated by exercise, anything pulling or pushing on their trachea like a leash and collar, and sometimes eating and drinking. Your dog may be tired and not eat well.

A pure, viral kennel cough is non-productive and dry. If your dog’s cough changes to a “wet” cough, as in coughs up discharge or has quite a bit of nasal discharge, he probably has a secondary infection and may progress to pneumonia. Difficulty breathing and a fever are signs that pneumonia may be involved. If a secondary infection like this has set in, an antibiotic such as doxycycline may come into play.

Dogs with a cough are generally diagnosed by a physical exam that includes listening carefully to the dog’s chest with a stethoscope. Your veterinarian will rule out any sort of cardiac condition and may recommend X-rays if there is concern about pneumonia, a heart problem, or cancer.

Treating Kennel Cough

Treating a dog with kennel cough often consists mainly of nursing care. There are no canine anti-viral medications for canine coughs. Antitussives (cough medications) such as butorphanol may be prescribed by your veterinarian if your dog is exhausted from coughing and needs to rest. Setting up a humidifier for the room your dog tends to hang out in and keeping him in the bathroom while you shower can ease the cough.

Encourage your dog to eat and drink. Since his sense of smell may be altered. In these cases, smelly food choices can help. The liquid from a can of tuna mixed with some water can be enticing. We all laugh about chicken soup, but low-sodium chicken with rice or low-sodium chicken noodle soup may hit the spot for your dog.

If you normally walk your dog in a collar, consider switching to a harness during this time. Be sure the harness does not put pressure on the trachea. Limit your dog to leash walks, no running with playmates (plus, remember, kennel cough is highly contagious), or playing fetch. Avoid any regular training classes, boarding, or daycare routines until the cough is cleared. You don’t want your dog to be the “Kennel Cough Kid” who spreads the problem! Most dogs will show improvement within a week and be fine after two weeks with just home care.

If your dog appears to be ill, or getting worse, he may need veterinary attention. Cases that move on to pneumonia may require hospitalization with IV fluids and supplemental oxygen.

Controlling Kennel Cough

Kennel cough is spread via droplets expelled when coughing. Dogs can pick up the virus through sniffing an infected dog and from contaminated surfaces, including food and water bowls as well as toys. That means you need to practice great hygiene at home, especially if you have multiple dogs. Realistically, the other dogs will have been exposed and, unless they have immunity through a vaccination, they may end up coughing too. Think of your family sharing a cold.

The best way to avoid cases of kennel cough is to use preventive vaccinations. The kennel cough (Bordetella) vaccine is considered lifestyle vaccination choice, meaning a non-core vaccine that is recommended depending upon your dog’s activities. If your dog stays at home most of the time—no training classes, sports competitions, grooming appointments, or daycare visits—he probably does not need a kennel cough vaccine. If he participates in any of these activities, you need to discuss a vaccination with your veterinarian.

Versions of vaccines for CIRDC vary. Parainfluenza and adenovirus type 2 are both generally included in your dog’s routine distemper/parvo vaccinations. Bordetella, or kennel cough, is generally given separately.

For the Bordetella vaccine, three versions are available:

  1. This vaccine may include parainfluenza and adenovirus, or it may be straight Bordetella. The plus to this vaccine is that it provides local immunity, catching the pathogen right as it enters your dog’s system. It can be tricky to give as many dogs resent being held so still and fight getting drops in their nose. Many a veterinarian and vet technician have gotten a dose of this vaccine themselves when a dog sneezes it back in their faces!
  2. This involves using a plastic syringe to put the vaccine inside your dog’s mouth, usually via a cheek from the side. This puts the vaccine near the pharynx, so the local immune system also catches the bacteria as it enters your dog’s respiratory system. Currently, this vaccine is pure Bordetella.
  3. The vaccine is injected into the dog under the skin.

All these vaccines should be boostered annually for dogs with likely exposures. None have the complete coverage like a rabies vaccine. Some vaccinated dogs will still get a cough, but generally symptoms are milder and recovery is faster.

Identifying Worms in Dog Poop

By
Dr. Debra M. Eldredge, DVM
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Eating wild prey is one of the ways that dogs get worms and other parasites.
Hunting wild rabbits comes naturally to pretty much all dogs and, if caught, that rabbit many pass along worms to your dog. Credit: Christopher Furlong | Getty Images

Internal parasites or worms are of great concern to both canines and their people. In some cases, the parasites are zoonotic (meaning humans can get them, too). In all cases, parasites can drain nutrients from your dog, and they are unsightly. In severe cases, a heavy parasite load can cause death.

The most common worms are roundworms or ascarids in puppies and tapeworms in any dog who has had fleas or hunts and eats his prey.

What to Do If You See Worms in Poop

Roundworms are one of many parasites that ca infect a dogs digestive tract.
Roundworms are commonly found in puppies as most heartworm preventatives also target roundworms. However, roundworms can affect humans, too. Credit: Kateryna Kon/Science Photo Library | Getty Images

If you find worms, bring them to your veterinarian for identification. For puppies, it’s important to do periodic microscopic inspection of feces (called “fecals”) even if you don’t see worms. Eggs can be identified under the microscope. Treatment is then tailored to any parasites found.

Roundworms are a zoonotic problem, meaning they can infect people as well as dogs, particularly children who might play in contaminated dirt on the ground and in playgrounds. Because humans are not a normal host for these parasites, the larval stages tend to migrate around human tissues. Common syndromes are visceral larva migrans with liver and pulmonary damage and ocular larva migrans, which has led to enucleation due to suspicion of cancer in some cases. I remember a friend growing up who had had an eye removed, and it turned out to be this parasite.

Roundworm infections need to be treated when detected and prevented, if possible. Almost all the monthly preventives for heartworm disease now cover the common intestinal parasites as well. Using one of these medications year-round can prevent roundworms in your dogs. It is also important to pick up after your dog to avoid fecal contamination of the environment.

Tapeworms in Dogs

Tapeworms are commonly noticed by owners in their dog’s stool. What you see most of time are really egg packets that get passed out with the feces. Occasionally a dog may vomit up whole tapeworms or pass adult worms in the stool, but that is uncommon.

The egg packets are visible to the naked eye and appear white and glistening when freshly eliminated on stool. Over time, they dry up and may look more like dried rice. Packets can stick on the hair around the rectum or in places where your dog rests, like his bed or your couch.

In general, tapeworms do not cause major health problems in dogs. A massive load might cause an intestinal impaction but rarely. The most common sign of tapeworm infestation is irritation around the anus. Dogs with tapeworms may lick and chew that area or “scoot” their butt, in a manner similar to a dog with an anal-gland problem.

The two tapeworm species seen most frequently in the United States are Taenia species and Dyplidium caninum. These two parasites have different life cycles and hosts. Your veterinarian can identify which type of tapeworm your dog has be looking at eggs under a microscope.

Taenia tapeworms come from ingested infected prey animals. For dogs, that means hunting, catching, killing, and eating wild rabbits. Many owners are shocked to find out that is how their dogs got tapeworms, but hunting urges are strong in almost all dogs, no matter what breed.

Dogs infected with Dyplidium have a different host. Fleas, or occasionally lice, are the intermediate host. A flea biting your dog won’t transmit tapeworms, but when your dog is biting and chewing from flea irritation, if he swallows some fleas, he can pick up tapeworms. (This is also true for any cats in your household, so if you have fleas, be prepared to treat your dogs and cats.)

Treating Tapeworms in Dogs

Treatment for tapeworms is slightly more complicated than treating for roundworms. The drugs praziquantel and epsiprantel are effective in most cases against Dyplidium, though some resistance to the drug seems to be developing. For Taenia species, praziquantel, epsiprantel, and fenbendazole are effective. Unlike roundworm treatment, where virtually all heartworm preventives contain medications to catch them, only a couple of these monthly medications (like Drontal Plus and Interecptor Plus) also cover tapeworms.

While tapeworms don’t have the overall health and zoonotic concerns of ascarids, aesthetically, it is desirable to treat them. No one wants dried (or fresh) tapeworm segments, or proglottids on their dog or on their furniture. Once again, prevention is key.

Once your veterinarian has identified the type of tapeworm your dog has, you can make a plan. Tapeworm eggs are almost never found on a fecal flotation (a laboratory method that separates the eggs from the feces), so you need to bring in some of the egg packets. Fresh or dried feces generally work. Your veterinarian will examine the packets under the microscope to identity the exact species involved.

If Taenia species are found, you need to limit your dog’s opportunities for hunting or be prepared to periodically deworm for these tapeworms. For Dyplidium tapeworms, you need to eliminate any fleas or lice. That means treating pets and the environment.

An unusual tapeworm, Echinococcus, can cause problems in dogs via liver damage and cysts. This is also a zoonotic parasite and can cause serious health problems in humans. Ungulates (hoofed animals such as sheep and deer) are intermediate hosts, along with some rodent species. Currently, cases of this parasite are very unusual in the United States with most cases confined to sheep herding dogs.

Use Schedules to Help Your Dog Cope

By
Nancy Kerns
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Routines can help a dog remain calm during everyday activities.
Dogs are masters of identifying and responding to patterns of events. Be conscious and deliberate with your behavior when you want them to behave consistently. Credit: AlenaPaulus, Getty Images

In late 2022, we published a valuable article, “How to Calm an Anxious Dog: Be Predictable,” by Virginia trainer Kathy Callahan. In it, Callahan discusses how the more predictable that our dogs’ daily schedule is, the calmer their behavior is likely to be.

Dogs are incredibly quick to pick up on patterns of events that predict what we are about to do, or what we are about to make them to do. About a month ago, I re-started a habit I hadn’t practiced for a year: waking very early and taking my dogs with me for a walk around our rural “block” (about 2.5 miles). On the first and second days, they didn’t get up from their beds when I first got up at about 6 am—they likely just figured I was going to the bathroom or getting a drink of water, two events that are not worthy of leaving their beds to observe. They didn’t really pay attention to me until they heard me putting on my shoes and filling up a water bottle; then they got out of bed and stood by the door, ready to accompany me wherever I was going. By day three, they leapt up from their beds and greeted me when I sat up in bed, even before my feet had hit the floor. “Yeah! Let’s do this!” their wagging tails and eager faces seemed to say.

You may have noticed your dog getting hyped when you drive down the street that leads to their doggie daycare or their best friends’ house—or getting down on the floor of the car, cowed and shaky, when you pull into your vet’s parking lot.

Or you may have noticed that your dog howls with anticipation when you pull on your walking shoes, but pays no attention to you at all when you put on the shoes you wear to work.

People often struggle to teach their new puppies or dogs to accept short periods of confinement in a crate or pen. I find that if the confinement is regular, and not over-long nor related to the dog’s behavior (used as a punishment or “time-out”), the dog or puppy usually accepts the confinement within a matter a matter of days—like, three to four days at the very most. Once they understand that the period of their confinement is never too long and will come to an end soon, but not as a result of their howling or crying, they tend not to howl or cry, but stoically wait for their release.

Similarly, when it’s time to go for a walk, does your dog get so excited that he makes it difficult to put his harness on or snap his leash to his collar? That’s because the harness or leash always predicts a walk, and that’s exciting! But you can shape the experience so that it goes more smoothly for you, by making it entirely predictable that his hyper behavior will always circumvent a trip outdoors. If you quit the process of trying to put his harness on or dropping his leash every time he gets hyper, walking away from him for at least 10 or more minutes, it won’t take him long to put it together that he’s not going to get to go outdoors unless he holds still.

Set a pattern that works for you, and don’t deviate from it! You’ll be amazed at how well it works for you and your dog!

Apoquel Quickly Addresses Itchy Skin

By
Dr. Andrea Lee, DVM
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11
A golden retriever scratching their ear.
Apoquel can soothe many itches in as little as four hours, although infections still need to be treated. Credit: More Than Words Photography by Alisa Brouwer | Getty Images

In 2014, Zoetis released an oral medication that significantly changed how itchy dogs are treated today. Apoquel (oclacitinib maleate) is an FDA-approved medication for use in dogs at least 12 months of age to treat atopic and allergic dermatitis. In 2024, a flavored, chewable form of Apoquel was made available (pork liver flavor, containing pork and soy). Apoquel has provided a way to quickly address itching in dogs, with relief possible in as little as four hours.

Controlling the Itch

Generally, the three primary reasons a dog might be itchy are:

  • External parasitism (fleas, mites, etc.)
  • Airborne allergies (atopic dermatitis)
  • Dietary sensitivity (allergic dermatitis)

Prior to the release of Apoquel, treating an itchy dog was difficult and largely disappointing. Typical treatments included:

  • Control of external parasites (spot-on topicals, flea/tick collars, oral medications, lime-sulfur dips)
  • Steroids (these had multiple side effects, including excessive drinking, urination, and appetite)
  • Modified cyclosporine (cost-prohibitive for many dog owners)
  • Hyposensitization therapy (injectable or sublingual, which can take months to years to have an effect, only 60% to 70% success rate),
  • Strict dietary therapy with a prescription diet (hydrolyzed or novel protein/novel carbohydrate)
  • Medicated baths
  • Oral antihistamines
  • Omega-3 fatty acid supplements

Enter Apoquel for Dogs

Apoquel is an immunomodulator (JAK inhibitor) that inhibits cytokines involved in the itch and inflammation pathways. Onset to relief is as soon as four hours. The approved dose of Apoquel is 0.18 to 0.27 mg oclacitinib/lb (0.4 to 0.6 mg clacitinib/kg) body weight, administered orally, twice daily for up to 14 days, and then administered once daily for maintenance therapy. Apoquel can be used seasonally, or throughout the year. Apoquel can be given with or without food. Apoquel is available in 3.6 mg, 5.4 mg, and 16 mg tablets and is a prescription medication. Follow your prescriber’s recommendation for dosages, but you can access the Zoetis dosing chart here.

Cautions With Apoquel

Apoquel should not be used in dogs less than 12 months old, dogs who are breeding, pregnant or nursing, or dogs who have severe infections. Apoquel can make a dog more susceptible to infection, including demodicosis (overgrowth of Demodex mite) or severe cancerous conditions. Dogs on Apoquel should be monitored for these potential conditions.

While Apoquel is not likely to increase the risk of new cancers, it can make pre-existing cancer worse. In other words, a pre-existing tumor may get bigger. Apoquel can be given with antibiotics and vaccines. According to Zoetis, Apoquel has not been evaluated for use in conjunction with steroids, cyclosporine, or other systemic immunosuppressive agents.

Apoquel Side Effects

The most commonly reported side effects in the post-approval period include vomiting, lethargy, inappetence, and diarrhea.

In the itchy dog, external parasites and infections will still need to be treated, as these disease states can cause more problems than just itching.

There are dogs whose itch cannot be fully controlled using Apoquel, and for those cases, a discussion with the dog’s veterinarian or a veterinary dermatologist is recommended for additional or replacement therapies.

Low-Fat Dog Food for Weight Management

By
Dr. Mary Cope, PhD
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2
Weight management dog food, along with exercise can help dogs lose weight.
A fat dog is not a happy dog. His excess weight makes for painful joints, so he doesn’t want to move, which only worsens the situation. Dogs love to eat, just as we do, but it’s up to us to control his weight.

The best dog food to help dogs lose weight is one that is formulated to provide fewer calories per serving, while still meeting the minimum requirements of essential nutrients, as defined by the Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO). A label on the side of the food with the AAFCO Statement assures you nutritional needs are met. But what about low-fat dog foods and calorie levels?

In dogs, excess energy (calories) consumption is a common issue in weight control problems. This is due to a variety of factors including the high calorific density and palatability of many dog foods, low activity levels, and supplemental treats, toppers, and foods.

The American Veterinary Medical Association (AVMA) estimates show that over 40% of dogs are considered overweight, or 10% to 15% above their desired body weight, and 25% of dogs are considered obese, which is 20% to 25% above their desired bodyweight.

Excess energy intake has several detrimental effects on dogs during growth, especially on the skeletal growth in puppies of large or giant breeds. Excessive energy intake during growth also impacts the total number of fat cells present in the body, meaning that overfeeding a puppy can contribute to obesity later in the dog’s life. Once a fat cell has been formed, it will never go away, and research has shown that individual fat cells produce hormones that increase appetite and hunger and help the fat cell to retain its stored fat.

Obesity has been linked to the development of orthopedic problems later in life, such as arthritis, as well as increasing the likelihood of diabetes, hyperlipidemia, pancreatitis, and heart failure. One study showed that by reducing the amount of food fed to a controlled group of labradors by 25% they lived an average of 1.5 years longer and had lower incidences of orthopedic problems, cancer, and metabolic diseases.

While we all strive to keep our companions in tiptop shape, changes in lifestyle, age, or environment can lead to weight gain, for both us and our pets. So, what is the best course of action if you have an overweight or obese dog, and what is the best dog food for weight loss?

Choosing a dog food designed for weight management is key to helping your pet achieve and maintain a healthy weight without causing any nutritional deficiencies. Weight management, weight control, and lite formulas are fancy ways to say “diet dog foods,” which focus on achieving nutritional adequacy while being low in calories. These diets are formulated to provide fewer calories per serving but still provide adequate essential nutrients, as defined by AAFCO. In addition, these diets also typically allow owners to feed their dog a larger volume of food, helping their pet to feel full and satiated longer.

When looking for a weight-loss formula, look for diets that contain high-quality proteins. Protein is essential for maintaining lean muscle mass, especially during weight loss. Dogs require protein to maintain and build muscle tissue, repair cells, maintain healthy skin and coat, and more. Protein can also be used as an energy source for dogs. Proteins are metabolized throughout the day, providing sustained energy levels. Lean meats, such as chicken, turkey, rabbit, kangaroo, and venison, are optimal as they are high in protein while also being low in fat.

While fat is an essential nutrient for our dogs, fat is very energy dense and should be avoided in excess. Because of this, weight-management formulas typically have a significantly lower fat content compared to conventional dog diets and may be marketed as low fat dog foods.

Diets that are higher in fiber can help your dog feel full and satiated without adding additional calories to the diet. You may see ingredients such as cellulose (plant fiber), miscanthus grass, or beet pulp added to weight-management diets to help add additional fiber. Many vegetables are also high in fiber, low in calories, and can provide beneficial vitamins and minerals to your dog.

Weight management dog food along with exercise can help your dog get to a healthy weight.
Keeping your dog at an optimal weight and physically fit is as critical to his health and longevity as it is to you. Credit: Vgajic | Getty Images

If your dog enjoys veggies, adding unsalted green beans to their food can help add bulk to their meals while also providing additional vitamins and minerals. Carrots, bell peppers, and zucchini make for a great low-calorie, nutritious snack or treat for pups striving for weight loss as well. While fiber is fantastic for aiding weight loss, excess fiber can cause flatulence, constipation, or diarrhea, so be sure to introduce vegetables to your pup slowly and in moderation.

Excess weight can put a lot of strain on joints, so look for a weight-management formula that includes ingredients to support joint health. Fish oils and marine microalgal oil provide a great source of omega-3 fatty acids, which have been shown to help reduce inflammation and support joint health. Glucosamine and chondroitin sulfate may also be added to the diet and may benefit overweight dogs prone to joint issues.

If the diet does not contain ingredients to support joint health, they can be added in the form of a joint supplement. It is important to note that fish oils, fatty fish, and green-lipped mussels are calorie dense, so they should be supplemented in moderation and carefully measured.

Choosing the right food for weight loss and management is essential for ensuring your dog reaches and maintains a healthy weight and enjoys a long, healthy life. By selecting a balanced, calorie-controlled diet that prioritizes high quality, lean protein, and is formulated with high-quality, whole, ingredients, you can support your dog’s weight management goals. Always monitor your dog’s progress and consult your veterinarian for personalized care and routine body condition score (BCS) assessments. Be sure to adjust feeding based on your dog’s activity levels and rate of weight loss. With proper diet and regular exercise, you and your dog can maintain a healthy weight for years to come.

Subscribers can search for dog foods that meet your pet’s specific needs using our WDJ Online Database of approved foods.

The 4 Best Chew-Proof Dog Beds

By
Jae Thomas, CPDT-KA
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Indestructible dog beds don't really exist, but there are very tough dog beds available.
While no bed is truly indestructible, there are some good, durable options available for heavy chewers. Credit: Jae Thomas

Not all dogs appreciate curling up in a plush bed and taking a nap. If your dog would rather pull all the stuffing out of her bed instead of resting in it, consider buying one specifically made for chewers. The best chew-proof dog beds will ensure your pup is comfortable and has joint support while sleeping while also keep you from constantly spending money to replace shredded dog bedding.

 

 

Traits We Want in a Chew-Proof Dog Bed

There are a ton of dog beds on the market that claim to be indestructible but can still be destroyed by a persistent pup. Look for these three things when shopping for a chew-proof dog bed:

A chew-proof warranty: Most high-quality “indestructible” beds will come complete with (at least) a 30- to 60-day warranty. Some of the products I tested have chew-proof guarantees for even longer—up to the lifetime of the product. If your dog chews through the beds within the warranty window, most companies will replace or fix your product, or refund your money. If you’re worried about dropping a lot of cash on a fancy bed that your dog might shred up immediately, a chew-proof warranty makes the risk a little more worth it.

Products made with chew resistant materials: Fluffy, fuzzy beds might seem more like a chew toy to your dog than a comfortable place to sleep. If your dog has destroyed a bed before, look for materials that discourage chewing, like metal or plastic frames, and strong ripstop or ballistic nylon fabric. Raised cots usually check these boxes and are typically a better-suited design for chewers than traditional foam or filled dog beds.

Minimal or no padding: There are chew-resistant cushioned dog beds, but if you have a super chewer who is prone to ripping foam and eating stuffing or fabric you should steer clear of anything with padding as a safety precaution.

Why Do Dogs Chew Their Beds?

Whether your dog is an adult or a puppy plays into why they might be deconstructing their bedding. According to Whole Dog Journal writer Elizabeth Vecsi, puppies and adolescents engage in “exploratory chewing” for as long as two years. An adult dog might chew up their bedding because of a lack of physical and mental activity, a stressful change in environment, or even for a medical reason.

If you’re dealing with a puppy who is chewing up their beds constantly, you can practice the trade game to discourage unwanted nibbling and give your puppy an appropriate outlet to chew (like a chew or toy instead of their bed). You may also need to only allow puppies bedding while they’re supervised to ensure they don’t ingest any fabric or wadding.

Know that even products marketed as indestructible dog beds are likely not 100% indestructible, even if designed to discourage chewing. If your dog or puppy is liable to rip up any fabric bed in his crate or otherwise, err on the side of caution. Taking away your dog’s bedding while you get to the root cause of the chewing is better than dealing with an intestinal obstruction caused by your dog ingesting pieces of a bed.

Read on for the best chew-proof and chew-resistant dog beds I tested for WDJ:

Best Chew-Proof Dog Beds

WDJ RatingProduct/ManufacturerPriceSizes/ColorsNotes
K9 Ballistics Chew Proof Armored Rip-Stop Elevated Dog Bed$129-$199S-XXL

Obsidian, Sandstone, Blue Quartz		The best choice for strong, persistent chewers, this K9 Ballistics bed is designed to discourage dogs from biting it. The aluminum frame comes with reinforced corners connected by durable ballistic material for your dog to rest on. The bed has a little bit of give that offers comfort without the risk of extra fabric that can be chewed on. It works as a crate pad or a standalone cot and can be used with or without the detachable legs. You’ll also score a 120-day chew-proof warranty.
Primo Pads$31-$10513”x22”-36”x54"

Black, blue, green, pink, purple, red, tan		Primo Pads are the budget pick of this list with prices starting at $31 for small crate pads. They come in dozens of sizes for multiple different crate types and can even be custom ordered. I love how easy they are to clean—just hose or wipe them down and let them dry. The optional add-on lockdown system for wire crates will keep your pup from accessing the sides or corners to chew on. I wish Primo Pads came with a slightly longer warranty—the brand will only replace a chewed-up pad one time if it’s damaged within 30 days.
Orvis RecoveryZone ToughChew Couch Dog Bed$303-$423S-XL

Brown, Slate, Granite, Khaki		A supportive, padded option for light and moderate chewers, the Orvis RecoveryZone ToughChew has a tightly woven cover and firm foam inserts. I love that the foam is protected by a water-resistant material and that the main cover is machine washable. It stood up to digging/nesting by my tester dogs and the assembly was a breeze in comparison to other similarly sized foam beds I’ve tested.
K9 Ballistics Chew Proof Armored Padded Elevated Dog Crate Bed$138-$209S-XXL

Obsidian, Sandstone, Blue Quartz		One step down in durability from its non-padded counterpart, this K9 Ballistics raised cot adds padding to the center for additional support and comfort. The padding, however, may be more enticing to dogs who like to chew.

The Best Chew Proof Dog Bed: K9 Ballistics Chew Proof Armored Rip-Stop Elevated Dog Bed

The K9 Ballistics chew-proof dog bed is close to an indestructible dog bed.
With its aluminum frame and ballistic fabric, the K9 Ballistics Chew Proof Armored Rip-Stop Elevated Dog Bed is built to stand up to some serious chewing. Credit: Jae Thomas

I was impressed with all of the chew-proof and chew-resistant dog beds I tested, but the K9 Ballistics Chew Proof Armored Rip-Stop Elevated Dog Bed came out on top. It’s about as chew-proof as dog beds come with a sturdy aluminum frame, aluminum reinforced corners, and waterproof ballistic fabric. It’s raised off the ground, so dogs get circulation under them to stay cool in hot weather—a great feature for heavily coated breeds.

I liked how easy this bed was to put together—all I needed to do was screw the four legs on. It works well as a crate bed since it comes in most standard crate sizes. I found that it’s nearly impossible for dogs to chew on when used in a properly sized crate—the edges sit flush with the sides, and don’t allow much room for a dog to get their teeth around the edges or legs.

I work part time as a kennel and dog show assistant for a Malamute breeder who has 14 dogs and she has these beds in most of the dogs’ kennels. These working dogs are large, exuberant, and hard on their gear. The K9 Ballistics beds have been in the indoor and outdoor sections of the kennels for months with minimal to no signs of wear. They hold up to rain, being hosed down, and strong dog toenails.

This bed comes with K9 Ballistics’ 120-day chew-proof warranty which means the brand will offer you a one-time-only credit to replace the damaged bed within that time frame. I do wish that the warranty was longer than 120 days—other options on this list have chew proof guarantees up to a year or even for the lifetime of the product.

The Best Chew Proof Dog Bed for Crates

While not indestructible the Primo Pad is one tough dog bed.
Primo Pads provide sturdy comfort and fit well in most dog crates. Credit: Jae Thomas

Primo Pads have been loved by dog sport and dog show exhibitors for years and they’re one of the best options for a chew-proof dog bed for crates. They’re made of firm closed-cell foam and covered in a waterproof, dust-proof, and hair-proof outer material. There are no zippers or stitching on these beds since they’re heat-closed, making them less enticing for chewers. I tested Primo Pads in both an Impact Crate and in a normal wire crate, and even without the brand’s lockdown system, the fit is tight enough that most dogs won’t be able to pull it up and chew on it. The lockdown system is for use with wire crates and consists of reusable zip ties that secure the pad to the bottom of the crate. If your Primo Pad gets dirty, it can easily be wiped or hosed down, making it a good option for dogs who like to get dirty. Primo Pads are available for wire crates, Ruffland Kennels, Vari Kennels, Impact crates, East Coast kennels, Dakota 283 kennels, and in custom sizes. The main downside of Primo Pads is their chew-proof warranty—currently, the brand will only offer a single replacement pad if it’s chewed within 30 days of receipt.

The Most Comfortable Dog Bed for Chewers

The Orvis RecoveryZone ToughChew Couch Dog Bed is an option for dogs who aren’t extremely strong chewers. It’s a firm foam bed that offers significantly more support than other options on our list, and the tightly woven cover feels extremely sturdy. The assembly of the ToughChew Couch bed was simple and straightforward—the directions were well written, and the foam pieces are covered in nylon-like sleeves, so they were easy to position in the cover. The only downside of the assembly is that the zipper was somewhat difficult to close. Though the brand doesn’t claim that the ToughChew Couch is orthopedic, the two-layer foam in this bed is focused on taking pressure off your dog’s joints, helping them recover quickly, and keeping them at a comfortable temperature. This bed comes with a lifetime chew-proof warranty, but it gets three paws instead of four because some user reviews said that their very persistent pups were able to chew through the bed. If you have a small dog or a dog who is a moderate chewer, the ToughChew Couch could be a good option—just size up if your dog likes to spread out.

The Toughest Chew Proof Dog Bed with Padding

K9 Ballistics has a padded version of the Chew Proof Armored dog bed that adds in filling to the middle of the cot for joint support and comfort. This bed is made with the same aluminum frame and detachable legs as the non-padded version, but I docked it a star because the padded center is more enticing for dogs to chew. It could still be a solid choice for dogs who only tend to nibble on the corners of beds since the corners are made of aluminum. You’ll be able to take advantage of K9 Ballistics’ 120-day chew-proof warranty in case your dog decides to disassemble the padding.

Why Do Dogs Like Belly Rubs?

By
Joan Merriam
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Why do dogs like belly rubs? A combination of emotion and instinct.
Many dogs—like the one pictured here—enjoy belly rubs but pay attention to your dog’s body language to make sure she is having fun. Credit: LittleCityLifestylePhotography | Getty Images

You walk in the door after work and you’re greeted by your dog wildly wriggling and wagging, then flopping onto his back with his paws joyously waving in the air, tongue lolling out with a goofy smile on his face. Who could resist bending down to give that pup a belly a rub or two?

But have you ever thought about why your dog seems to like belly rubs so much? I know why I like to give them: the belly fur is generally the softest and silkiest, and caressing it simply feels wonderful. That begs the question: does my dog like it just as much?

It turns out the answer is yes…and no. It depends upon the dog, the situation, and who’s doing the rubbing.

The Science

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First, let’s talk about what we know, as opposed to what we think. Numerous research studies both here and abroad have shown that just a few minutes of petting can increase a dog’s oxytocin, a powerful endorphin linked to feelings of pleasure and happiness; at the same time, the level of cortisol—the hormone that triggers stress—decreases. (It won’t come as a surprise to most of you that the “petter” enjoys similar benefits!)

The same physiological mechanism applies to giving your dog a belly rub. Rubbing or stroking your dog’s belly instantly activates the scores of very sensitive nerves and sensory neurons, known as touch receptors, on her abdominal region. Not to go too Sandy Scientific on you, but these touch receptors travel along sensory nerves that connect to neurons in the spinal cord, then to the thalamus, and finally to the somatosensory cortex of the brain, which in turn triggers the release of oxytocin. All this happens in the flutter of an eyelash: the only thing we’re aware of is that our dog goes into a state of semi-bliss the moment we start rubbing her belly.

That being said, while science knows why dogs like being petted in general, there are no research studies on why dogs like belly rubs in particular. But for all intents and purposes, petting is petting, no matter where it’s done. It’s simply another way for dogs to bond with us, and we with them. Dr. Annette Louviere, DVM at Wisdom Panel, says that petting your dog, no matter where on the body, can be a form of communication between the two of you that acts as a bond. Dr. Stanley Coren, author of How to Speak Dog, concurs: “For some dogs, a belly rub is simply a variant of being petted. It is a form of social contact.”

Why Do Dogs Roll on Their Backs to Begin With?

Generally, there are two reasons why dogs roll on their backs: first is that they’re angling for affection and a belly rub. But don’t assume that a dog on his back automatically wants that: sometimes it’s a submissive gesture where the dog wants to appease you or another dog. Again, look at their body language: if the dog is ducking or leaning away, licking her lips, her ears are back, and she’s avoiding looking at you, those are sure signs that she doesn’t want to be touched. If you try to give a belly rub to a dog who is presenting her underside as a form of appeasement, she’ll probably become even more nervous or uneasy, and will do her best to get away.

On the other hand, if your dog’s body is loose and waggling, his mouth is open in what looks like a grin, his tail is relaxed and even thumping on the floor, you can almost bet the farm that he’s ready for a belly rub.

Do All Dogs Like Belly Rubs?

I’ve never had a dog that didn’t become positively delirious over getting a belly rub, but then, all my dogs have been Golden Retrievers, a breed that’s renowned for being pushovers for attention and affection. That being said, not every dog likes belly rubs. Remember that the belly is the most vulnerable spot on a dog’s body and some dogs may feel uncomfortable—or even threatened–when exposing their undersides.

Breed, genetics, and early life experiences can all govern whether or not a dog enjoys the intimacy of a belly rub. And even a dog that loves them won’t want them all the time or in every circumstance. (As much as you enjoy swimming, would you want to do it every day of the year, even when it’s 20 degrees outside?) Just like humans, every dog is different, with different likes, dislikes, and personality quirks.  It’s up to us as their caretakers to learn how to read their body language so we’ll know what’s pleasurable for them and what isn’t.

The Belly Rub Leg Kick

Chances are, you’ve seen this, or experienced it with your own dog. You’re giving him a nice, energetic belly rub, when suddenly one of his back legs starts kicking. What’s going on?

It’s called the scratch reflex, an instinctive, evolutionary response that allows an animal to get rid of bugs or irritants. Lore Haug, a veterinarian and animal behavior expert for Texas Veterinary Behavior Services, explains that dogs developed the scratch reflex as a way to defend against annoyances like invading bugs like fleas or ticks. The kicking is an attempt to dislodge the source of irritation, knock off some of the bugs, and relieve the itch.

There’s a collection of nerves located just under the skin that makes up the spot on a dog’s body that triggers the scratch reflex when he is rubbed or scratched: this is called the “sweet spot” or the “tickle spot.” Most often, this spot is somewhere on the belly or flank area, so when you rub your dog’s tummy and hit this spot, the nerves get activated and send a message to the hind leg to start kicking.

We don’t know for certain whether this reflex action is pleasant or unpleasant for the dog: like people who are ticklish, dogs can find tickles to be either enjoyable or infuriating. Watch your dog’s body language to see if he’s having as much fun kicking as you are when you’re watching him kick: if he pulls away or tries to turn over, he’s letting you know the fun is over.

So next time your dog rolls over on her back and gives you a big, silly smile, rub away!

Fishy Business: Selecting the Best Fish Oil for Dogs

By
Kim Campbell Thornton
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Fish oil for dogs can support their health.
Fish oil supplements for dogs are typically available in liquid form or as gel capsules. Credit: RHJ | Getty Images

Omega-3 fatty acids support cellular function, muscle activity, and more throughout the body. However, the body doesn’t produce omega-3s, so they must be obtained from food. Fish oil, which contains omega-3s in the form of eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA) and docosahexaenoic acid (DHA), is a popular supplement to give dogs, but not just for overall health. It’s thought to benefit dogs with conditions ranging from osteoarthritis to heart disease, and there’s some good evidence for its effects:

*The latest guidelines from the American College of Veterinary Internal Medicine (ACVIM), published in 2019, recommend omega-3 supplementation for dogs with current or past clinical signs of heart failure related to mitral valve disease, especially if they have decreased appetite, muscle loss or arrhythmia.

*A number of studies have indicated significant improvement of itchy skin and coat quality in dogs supplemented with fish oil.

*Omega-3 fatty acids may help to reduce production of inflammatory compounds, reducing oxidative stress to the kidneys and slowing the progression of chronic kidney disease. Diets containing omega-3s have been recommended for dogs with CKD.

*In a 90-day randomized double-blinded controlled study of pet dogs with lameness from osteoarthritis, dietary supplementation with fish oil significantly improved the dogs’ ability to walk and bear weight.

*A 2023 study found that fish oil supplementation enhanced learning ability in puppies.

Does that mean that all dogs should receive fish oil supplements? Not necessarily. Dogs in good health with great coats are probably doing fine without fish oil. Here’s what else to consider before adding fish oil to your dog’s daily routine.

Is Fish Oil Right for Your Dog?

While fish oils usually do not have significant side effects, some dogs are sensitive to fish oil, especially in high amounts. Dogs who respond to fish oil with vomiting or diarrhea may be in this category. Pregnant or nursing dogs may also not respond well to fish oil. To reduce the risk of gastrointestinal upset, start with a low dose and gradually increase it.

If your dog takes prescription, herbal, or over-the-counter medications or has a blood-clotting disorder, diabetes, or a history of pancreatitis, talk to your veterinarian first before adding fish oil to your dog’s diet. Some medications or herbs may interact with fish oil in negative ways.

For dogs with health or skin conditions that could benefit from omega-3s, don’t double the amount. Too much of anything, no matter how natural or healthy, can cause side effects.

Some foods are already fortified with omega-3 fatty acids. If the label doesn’t indicate a guaranteed amount, contact the manufacturer and ask about the percentage of fatty acids in the food. The answer can help you and your veterinarian determine whether it’s appropriate to supplement with additional omega-3 fatty acids.

The Best Fish Oil for Dogs

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Not all fish oils are created equal. The U. S. Food & Drug Administration does not regulate pet supplements such as fish oil. Consider these factors when deciding which one to purchase for your dog:

  • The label should specify the amounts of EPA and DHA.
  • The manufacturer should use third-party testing to evaluate purity and freshness and can provide a certificate of analysis on request.
  • The oil should be made from fish such as anchovies, cod, mackerel, pollock, sardines, and wild-caught salmon, which are low in heavy metals and other impurities.
  • The product should be formulated for pets so you know your dog isn’t receiving an excessive amount and that it doesn’t contain ingredients that could be harmful to pets.

As stated above, the best fish oil for dogs should contain the omega-3s DHA and EPA. Colorado State University Veterinary Teaching Hospital recommends choosing a product evaluated for purity and freshness via third-party testing. Some products are audited by the National Animal Supplement Council (NASC), meaning they must meet certain quality-control criteria. We like the following products:

Before giving fish oil to your dog, smell or taste the oil to make sure it isn’t rancid. You may think your dog won’t care—he may scarf up worse things than old fish oil—but he won’t see benefits from it and may experience one of the side effects you’re trying to prevent: inflammation.

When it comes to administering fish oil, some dogs will swallow a gel capsule whole while others may prefer to take their fish oil in liquid form, pumped onto their food from a dispenser or squeezed onto food from a punctured capsule.

Heat Exhaustion in Dogs

By
Dr. Debra M. Eldredge, DVM
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Providing your dog with shade can help avoid heat exhaustion.
Be sure your dog has access to shade when he’s outside for a long period. Credit: Giovanni Bortolani | Getty Images

The first signs of heat exhaustion in dogs are easy to miss, like the dog who normally plays fetch for at least 10 throws but slows down after five. He’s panting, but it isn’t the usual happy and excited pant you’re familiar with. It’s more intense and heavier than usual. If your dog is panting heavily, he needs to cool down.

Your dog’s tongue can be key to detecting increasing heat stress. If your dog is panting and his tongue looks abnormally long and wide, and/or his lips are pulled back to expose more of his gums and oral tissues, he is trying to maximize his evaporative cooling process through his mouth. His drool may look thick, and his mucous membranes may be bright red. All this adds up to a dog working hard to cool off.

Stumbling Into Heat Stroke

A dog moving into an emergency level of heat exhaustion, called heat stroke, may appear weak and even stumble. This dog needs immediate veterinary care. You may also notice:

  • Muscle tremors and weakness
  • Increased heavy panting
  • Increased thirst but nose/mouth dry
  • Vomiting
  • Diarrhea
  • Elevated pulse (check in the groin area)
  • Abnormal gum color
  • Increasing dehydration

Check for dehydration by gently pulling up a small amount of skin. The skin “tents up” when you squeeze it and doesn’t immediately slip right back into place. If your dog’s mouth is dry or his saliva is thick, flush his mouth with cool water and encourage him to drink.

Never Leave Your Dogs in the Car

We all know children and dogs can die if left in a hot car and, sadly, stories abound about people who still do this. Some vehicles now allow you to lock the car and leave it running, which may tempt you to leave your dogs in the car. Don’t do it.

Literally, as I write this article, I read about a heat-related dog tragedy at a dog event in the Northeast. The owner parked her car in the shade and left it running with the air conditioning on. She did checks every 30 to 40 minutes. On her last check, the car was still running but the AC had quit. Three dogs were dead, one was seizuring, and three were in critical condition.

In another incident earlier this year, dogs were left in an RV with air conditioning running and a temperature monitor in the RV. Sadly, both the AC and monitor malfunctioned, and the dogs died. Don’t leave your dogs unattended.

As the heat exhaustion worsens and the body temperature elevates, the dog’s gums change from bright red to pale. The dog begins hyperventilation. His blood pressure will drop, and he may become unconscious, collapse, or go into seizures. With high enough body temperatures (such as 107 degrees F), organ failure sets in. Put your dog in the car, blast the AC, and get him to a veterinarian immediately.

What to Do for Heat Stress in a Dog

If your dog is panting excessively or collapses, get him cool!  Putting him in a tub of cool water is ideal. If not, pour cool water or run a hose over him, targeting thin-haired areas like the “arm pits” and the groin area (just hosing off his back is inefficient, especially if he has a thick coat, because the water just rolls off the coat and doesn’t quickly get down to the skin).

If you can monitor temperatures, try to get him down to 104. Add fans once he is in your car and turn up the AC, letting it blow on him.

How Dogs Stay Cool

Dogs cool off through evaporative cooling, although they do sweat a bit through their foot pads. Evaporative cooling occurs via panting, so your dog must be well-hydrated to get the full benefit of the panting. Dogs also will shift blood flow to surface areas: vis vasodilation to help cool things off so you might notice your dog’s ears being very red for example.

Avoid Heat Stress

Packing water and cooling supplies can help prevent heat stroke in dogs.
Your dog loves outings like hikes as much as you do! Be sure you have water and cooling supplies in a backpack for your dog, too. Credit: Tommasolizzul | Getty Images

Clearly, prevention is the best way to minimize heat stress and avoid heat stroke. To do this:

  • Limit play and training during hot weather.
  • Stick to shaded, grassy areas if possible, including for rest.
  • Always have fresh, cool water available in the shade and add ice cubes.
  • If your dog is working, considering using cool treats, such as frozen-low sodium bouillon, doggy ice cream, or watermelon.
  • Provide a kiddie pool (be sure water is fresh and cool), splash pad, or misting water sprinkler.
  • Make your dog take a periodic break from playing.

If you are hiking, choose trails that are shaded and not too strenuous. Let your dog wade in a running creek. Caution: Avoid stagnant bodies of water as algae buildups can be toxic. Be sure you have drinking water for your dog (and you!) with you.

High-Risk Dogs

With dogs at high risk for heat stress include older dogs, overweight dogs, and brachycephalic dogs (the ones with short faces and muzzles), it is best to leave them safely at home. If not possible, someone should always be with them.

Some dog-sports competitors use dog cool coats to help protect the dog from the intense rays of the sun. These are coats that can be wet down and reflect the sun.

When I travel with my dogs in the summer, I leave my car open (minivan), with open weave shade cloths covering it, and fans on when I am parked. I park in shade if possible and orient my car to catch any breeze. I have extra fans and batteries. I stay with my dogs as much as possible.

Use drive-ups to get food and drinks instead of going into a restaurant. When purchasing gas, pull your car up so it is in shade.

So far, I have not had problems, but if it is truly hot, we stay home. Heat-related problems are serious. Even dogs who seem fine may show signs of organ damage a few days later. This is a health problem to avoid.

House-Training Is Simple, But Not Always Easy

By
Nancy Kerns
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A young but house-trained puppy.
It’s been challenging to be as assiduous about watching this small-breed foster puppy as I need to be in order to whisk her outside every time she looks like she has to urinate. At least I can count on the first-thing-in-the-morning pee.

Have you ever visited a friend’s or relative’s house and, upon walking in the door, detected the unmistakable aroma of dog pee? No one wants this to happen to their home, but a failure to house-train or otherwise manage a dog can easily lead to this upsetting and unhealthy result.

There are lots of reasons that a house-training failure can occur. Perhaps the dog has a particularly small bladder or had a urinary tract infection at some point, causing them to need to urinate far more frequently than they were given the opportunity to do so outdoors. Perhaps the owner wasn’t able to let the dog outside as frequently as needed to support the house-training habit, or didn’t have the means or ability to manage the dog’s environment to increase the likelihood of house-training success.

I know some folks who, in their late 80s, lost their nearly 20-year-old Dachshund, and after a few months of extreme sadness, bought a Dachshund puppy; they had owned Dachshunds their entire lives, they didn’t want to be without one! But their declining mobility resulted in the puppy not getting taken outside as much as she needed to be, and their large-open plan home gave the puppy many opportunities to relieve herself in places her owners couldn’t detect. The couple’s adult children, nearly senior citizens themselves, will have to grapple with both the un-house-trained dog and her effects on the house at some point.

With this in mind, I am currently working hard to provide a small-breed puppy, a foster puppy from my local shelter, with a solid house-training foundation before finding her an adoptive home.

The most effective method to house-training a dog is not complex, but it can be difficult. Generally, you use a crate or pen to confine the dog or puppy into a small space for periods of sleeping or just when they can’t be actively supervised. Most pups instinctively avoid soiling their “bedrooms” or resting spot (unless they have no alternative). When the pup awakens or you are ready to let the pup out, you immediately take the pup outdoors and cue him or her to eliminate. It doesn’t matter what cue is used—“Go pee!” or “Hurry up!” are common cues—but being consistent in the presentation of the cue and rewarding the pup for eliminating on cue will speed his or her comprehension of the requested task.

After the pup pees and/or poops outside, they can be given a short period of freedom in the house, though they need to be highly and actively supervised during this period. You have to be alert for signs that they need to “go” again, and get them outside before they have any opportunity to eliminate in the house. If you’re not going to be able to watch the pup for any period of time, they need to be sequestered in either a crate or small pen (which they should feel reluctant to soil) or a larger pen or gated-off space where they are supplied with pee pads or a litterbox option. (The house-training process is explained in greater detail in “How to House Train a Puppy.”)

The challenge, however, is being attentive to your puppy every minute that they are loose in the house—and I am finding it challenging, indeed. Perhaps more so because this particular puppy is so tiny! Her bladder likely doesn’t hold more than a tablespoon or so of urine!

Maybe that’s garbage. Bladder size must be proportional to the dog; it just seems like most of the larger-breed puppies I’ve fostered over the years can “hold it” longer than this tiny puppy can. But maybe it’s also my attention span; I think I’ve gotten more distractible as I’ve aged! I have to admit that I’m not watching the puppy as zealously as I should be for maximum effectiveness; she’s had at least one “accident” a day in the house when I got caught up in a conversation or was making dinner, for example, and took my eyes off her for a few minutes—a few minutes after an over-long period of playing loose in the house, that is.

While I definitely work on house-training with every untrained puppy or dog whom I foster, I don’t generally take responsibility for having this accomplished before sending a dog or pup off to their newly adopted family. It’s helpful if I have started the process, and know something about the dog’s habits—how often and when they generally go poop, for example—so I can offer “technical support” and advice if the new owners have trouble. But because I have been finding the frequency of this puppy’s urination to be higher than I seem to be capable of managing, I am worried that other people might have trouble with house-training her, too, and I don’t want her to get returned due to unreliable house-training.

Things I have done that have helped:

  • Picked up all doormats in and outside the house (she was drawn to peeing on these, even the outside ones! She preferred peeing on the outside doormats over peeing on the front lawn or anywhere else outside, until I removed them).
  • Removed the rug from my living room (the only carpet in my whole house).
  • Placed a puppy pen across both ends of my kitchen, so she can’t leave the room and pee out of my sight. (When we’re in the same room, I can and do notice when she’s starts walking around and looking like she has to “go.”)
  • Put a couple treats in the pocket of everything I wear, so I am ALWAYS ready to reward and celebrate each and every outdoor elimination.

What are your favorite house-training tips? Info from small dog owners particularly wanted!!

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