As a trainer, I am hyperaware of the dynamics between dogs and their owners. I have watched countless human-canine teams in group classes blossom together in beautiful demonstrations of communication and cooperation. Unfortunately, I have also seen people struggle. Teaching a dog a new skill can be difficult for any owner, especially if the person has never practiced it before. A good coach can help solve the sticking points in training…but more troublesome is when an owner’s bond with a dog seems very weak, or non-existent.
Some dogs almost never check in with their owners during an entire class, and it’s more than just a case of being distracted. They simply don’t look to the person for direction or affection. Likewise, some owners continually dismiss their dogs as “stupid” and don’t seem especially proud of them when they do master a skill. This dynamic is less about the actual learning than it is about the bond – or the lack of it. I remember one in-home private training session where the owner informed me, sniffling through her tears, that she just didn’t feel at all close to her adopted dog, who had been in the home for the past four months.
I can bond with pretty much any dog in point-five seconds. At least, I could until we adopted Bodhi (then called Bazooka, for reasons I would later come to discover) from the shelter. An adolescent Malamute-mix, he was full of energy. That was expected.
What we hadn’t anticipated were his incredibly high levels of anxiety, which he expressed as destruction, aggression, and horrendous manners. I literally could not take a few steps across the floor without Bodhi leaping at me and clamping his jaws around my arms or legs. He shredded every object within range, including things he grabbed off shelves, even if I was in the next room with the door open. One evening when he and Sierra, our other adopted dog (with whom I had bonded instantly), were left home alone longer than usual, he ate the couch. I don’t mean he gnawed on it – he completely disemboweled it. He also ate a mini-fridge, which I hadn’t even thought possible.
There were other issues with Bodhi, including his reactivity toward other dogs, fighting with Sierra, and clearly not wanting to be handled. My most-used phrase became, “It’s a good thing you’re cute.” That might have been funny, but the situation was not. My husband’s and my home life became incredibly stressful. It was the first time in my life that I felt incapable of bonding with a dog.
As I wrote in my book Hit by a Flying Wolf (which, in addition to containing stories about rescuing and living with wolves, describes the trials and tribulations of cohabitating with Bodhi and Sierra): “I’d had an immediate feeling of connection upon seeing Bodhi’s photo, but I just wasn’t feeling it in person. The situation was completely alien, and it worried me. But, I reasoned, not feeling warm and fuzzy toward a being who’s turned your life upside down was certainly understandable.”
Frustration Does Not Help with Bonding
At the crux of not feeling bonded with a dog often lies a feeling of helplessness that accompanies having had one’s life and house turned upside down. To improve the situation, it is necessary to create a feeling of togetherness. Gentle, positive training methods can help immensely, both in improving the dog’s behavior and in creating a bond. If a group class is not helpful enough, a private trainer can pinpoint where issues lie and how the owner and dog can better communicate.
For example, an owner might be continually yelling at the dog to get off the couch – but the dog might not understand at all that his presence on the couch is what suddenly makes his owner “aggressive.” Teaching the dog a specific cue (such as “off” or “go to your bed”)would help the dog understand what’s expected, improve his behavior, and lessen the person’s frustration. The owner soon begins to feel less irritated and more kindly toward the dog.
Teaching tricks can be especially helpful in relationship-building. Trick training is fun, and does not carry the air of seriousness that obedience training sometimes can. I have observed countless times how the very same owners who were almost grim when teaching an obedience exercise would smile and become joyful when teaching tricks. The dogs enjoy it too. Having fun together creates wonderful chemistry.
There are other enjoyable ways to encourage bonding. Depending on the dog’s age, breed, and health, and what the owner is able and inclined to do, possible activities could include K9 Nosework, agility, rally, tracking, urban mushing, or canine freestyle. A variety of dog sports and activities are available, but the real trick is finding one that both partners enjoy. The camaraderie created by experiencing improvement and success together builds long-term companionship in a big way.
Act “As If”
With Bodhi, in addition to behavior modification and training, I did something that might sound strange at first; I mounted a “cuddle offensive.” Have you ever heard it suggested to act “as if”? For example, if you’re nervous about giving a speech, you act “as if” you’re confident, and eventually you do become confident in those situations. Well, I decided to act “as if” I felt close to Bodhi. I had already been rewarding him with attention for good behavior, but I made a special effort to pet him more often in long, calming strokes, to talk to him softly, and to surround him with a feeling of love and acceptance whenever possible.
It worked! Within a week’s time, he became visibly more relaxed – and so did I. My affection toward Bodhi had been buried under layers of resentment and stress. Over time I began to actually feel closer to him, as my emotions followed my actions. I’m not suggesting that you can make any dog fit into any home; if it truly is a mismatch, the dog should be rehomed. But if you feel that you’re not bonding with your dog, ask yourself why. If it’s behavioral, seek help from a professional trainer. Whether the cause is behavioral or not, get involved in activities together. Even if you don’t feel quite warm and fuzzy just yet, try acting “as if.” You might be surprised at the depth of the bonds you create.
Correction: In the list of WDJ-approved dry foods presented in our February issue, we reported incorrect ranges for the amounts of protein and fat in some of the dry foods made by Dogswell. The products in the company’s Live Free dry food line contain 36% to 40% protein and 14% to 18% fat. The products in Dogswell’s dry Nutrisca line contain 30% to 32% protein and 16% to 18% fat. We regret the errors.
Regarding “Spot the Problem” (WDJ January 2014): Where can I find dosage charts by dog weight, not by brand name, that show the different drugs used for these products? I need to re-visit my choice of treatment.
My 3-year-old Lab became very ill, and now I wonder if it was the Trifexis we use. The vet kept asking if we gave her anything “different” than usual. The answer was “No.” She is 65 lbs, and the vet will only sell us the BROWN 65-120 lb strength. I really think I am over-dosing!
Susan Wright Via email
If your dog has become ill within a week of being treated with either a topical or oral flea/tick/heartworm prevention drug or pesticide, we would recommend not using that drug or pesticide again, nor any preparation that included the same active ingredients as the one that caused the problem.
As the article suggested, we also would recommend using the smallest dose that would adequately protect your dog. When your dog’s weight is right on the line between products with different dosages, we’d recommend using the lower dosage. And we’d discontinue using the services of any veterinarian who wouldn’t be more sensitive to the possibility that the Trifexis, particularly at a potentially too-high dose, could have caused your Lab’s illness.
Are dog foods required to meet AAFCO standards/guidelines in order for you to include them in your list of recommended foods (“Dried and True,” WDJ February 2014)? I understand the difference between “meets AAFCO standards” and “AAFCO certified.”
Name withheld via email
Only foods that are “complete and balanced” as per the AAFCO guidelines appear on our list of “approved foods.” But you may misunderstand the terms you referenced. AAFCO (the Association of American Feed Control Officials) does not “certify” any foods; it is not a certifying or inspecting entity, but rather, an advisory group that develops model regulations that are, almost uniformly, adopted by and used by each individual state. Dog foods are regulated by state laws and subject to inspection by state feed control officials. Each of the United States has adopted the recommendations as to the definitions of “complete and balanced” that have been developed by AAFCO.
In order to use the phrase “complete and balanced” on its label, a product must have met one of two possible sets of requirements (both of which were developed by AAFCO), and it needs to use a specific phrase that describes which of the requirements it met. It will either state that, “(Name of product) is formulated to meet the nutritional levels established by the AAFCO nutrient profiles,” or “Animal feeding tests using AAFCO procedures substantiate that (product name) provides complete and balanced nutrition for (life stage).” Again, all of the products we include on our lists have met one of these requirements.
We’ve published many articles about AAFCO and the various ways that foods qualify as “complete and balanced,” including articles that discuss the problems and strengths of each method of qualification. Use the “search” feature on wholedogjournal.com for a list of relevant articles.
Regarding the article “It’s in the Bag” (February 2014) you recommend storing food in the original bag, and the bag in a container.
I need some clarification. I live in the southwest; mice and cockroaches are prevalent in my area. We need a “critter proof” container and fresh dog food! How truly safe is the dog food in a plastic container, while remaining in its bag? (After opening the bag, I fold down and clip the bag prior to storing.) I am aware of BPA and other possible toxin releases. The plastic containers are hard plastic.
Sharon Maughan Albuquerque, NM
As long as you leave the food in the bag, it’s protected from any container you put the bag in. Pet food bags are designed to protect the food and recent innovations in packaging have made them safer and more impermeable than ever. The potential for contaminating the dog food lies in the practice of dumping the food directly into the plastic container without its bag. The fat in dog food can chemically interact with many plastics and facilitate the transfer of chemicals from the plastic into the food. We recommend keeping dry dog food in its bag (even if you use supposedly “safe” plastic containers).
I have four Dobermans and I walk them every day. I consider them my friends and exercise machines.
When Sony invented the Walkman, particularly the Walkman radio, my dog walking was taken to new heights. I could keep abreast of the news. I would walk the dogs and the radio up and down Signal Hill, the most easterly city in North America, every morning, often before dawn. Life was good. The dogs and I were happy.
Then my wife read in WDJ that wearing headphones while dog walking was bad, so I stopped. Life became, well, dull. I see today in your March 2014 issue (“Walk On!”) in which you repeat your advice: “No headphones. Ever.”
What if I give each dog his or her own headphones? Would that solve the problem? Thanks for an otherwise fine magazine.
Clifford Grinling St. John’s, Newfoundland
So sorry to make your walks so dull, but it’s a safety issue. Wouldn’t you rather hear that runaway truck behind you, or the shouts of “Watch out for the crazed moose!”? You’re welcome.
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I think there may be no more commendable work than that performed by rescue groups who pull dogs from shelters where they might be (or are slated to be) killed, foster them, address their medical and behavioral problems, and find them homes.
Then there are other people who pull dogs from shelters and, without meaning to (I hope), plunge those dogs into even worse circumstances. What’s worse than death? In my opinion, living in filthy, overcrowded conditions, without enough to eat, clean water, or medical care of any kind, and without hope of escape — that’s worse than death, in my mind. And all too many so-called rescues, founded with good intentions by people who truly love animals and want to help them, start out as the first type of group, and end up as the second.
One of the ingredients for a “failed” rescue seems to be when just one or two people are behind the rescue effort for too long. Caring for a lot of animals can wear anyone down, and if you try it without sufficient help or ample funds, it can be exhausting and depressing — not to mention, financially challenging.
Also, once shelters or individuals know there is a “no-kill” option in their area, they are often all-too-fast to try to surrender animals to the “rescue” — without doing due diligence, to make sure the organization is healthy and well. It’s easy for a soft-hearted person, trying to do good work, to get buried under an avalanche of animals needing homes, and not enough time to market those animals to potential new owners. A “good” rescue sometimes says no; they don’t take in more animals than they can care for. And in this case, I think they are doing the animals a disservice.
But, as I said, I’m conflicted. I recently pulled a dog out of a shelter, and brought it to a rescue group — one that is doing terrific work. And yet, I felt guilty for bringing one more dog to a group who is already trying to place LOTS of similar dogs.
My local shelter didn’t want to give a particular dog a chance, citing his size, lack of training, and “drive”. He is a Redbone Coonhound, and typical for the breed: tall, strong, and yes, loud. And yet, he wasn’t aggressive, wasn’t a cat killer, wasn’t dying of heartworm or anything else — he was just another big, active, loud, untrained young dog. He was sweet and trainable, but the powers-that-be decided he was not a good adoption candidate. Sometimes that means the animal himself is unsuited for life in any human society, but in this case, it seemed that someone thought it was unlikely that he’d find a suitable home in our community any time soon. I hate that sort of decision — and I understand that it’s why many people hate and speak disparaging of “so-called shelters”.
I couldn’t stand by and watch him get euthanized for no good reason — I also can’t foster a dog of his size and lung capacity without alienating my husband, my own animals, and neighbors. Fortunately, I know this one terrific rescue group, the American Black and Tan Coonhound Rescue (www.coonhoundrescue.com), which was started as a strict Black and Tan rescue, but which also takes in hounds of other breeds. They have an active national network of people working for the hounds: some who provide foster homes, training, and socializing for the dogs; some who provide transportation services, moving dogs to available foster homes, or in the best case scenario, transporting dogs long-distance from foster to permanent adoptive homes; and donors, people who have or have had coonhounds and want to help.
I asked, and got permission to transport this dog to the West Coast coordinator for the group — who is already hosting a dozen or so equally needy hounds! She operates a boarding and daycare facility, so it’s not like her home is buried under hounds, but still — that’s a lot of extra work.
So, I’m going to make a donation to the group, and I’ve offered to help transport dogs when I can. And I’d certainly like to help publicize the group; they do amazing work. Their good-news stories appear daily on their Facebook page (https://www.facebook.com/groups/90624386172/). And I’d also recommend these dogs to anyone looking for their next dog; they may not all be as calm as the famous Maddie the Coonhound (http://maddieonthings.com/) but they are smart, funny dogs who do mellow after those first couple of years.
A dog who regards his humans as a strong leader will feel more secure in threatening situations. For example, Shiloh the Shetland Sheepdog is nervous when strangers approach on the street. Without confidence in his owner, Shiloh might feel the need to take matters into his own paws, barking and lunging furiously to drive the stranger away. But if he sees his owner a capable leader, Shiloh can relax and let her handle the situation. Leadership has its benefits for you, the owner, as well. If you feel that you have more control over your dog, you will be able to remain calmer when confronted with potentially anxiety-producing situations.
Good leaders use psychology to lead and teach. There is no need to prove to your dog that you are in charge by being physically overpowering.
The Language of Leadership
The unruffled, self-assured manner of a strong leader is reflected in the tone of voice and body language. Speech is succinct. Instructions are clear and direct. A good leader is fair, consistent, and patient. Although it might ne difficult to define a good leader by listing personality traits and mannerisms, the aura of a true leader is unmistakable. Even if you do not naturally exude leadership qualities, you can learn to approximate them well enough that your dog will be convinced that you are in charge.
Heres how:
– Maintain an air of calm confidence. Whenever you feel yourself becoming tense, take a few deep breaths.
– Give verbal cues once in an even tone of voice. Do not repeat cues with escalating volume! Your dog can hear a potato chip hit the carpet in the next room-she heard your request the first time.
– Keep verbal cues simple: do not surround them with extraneous chatter. Its not, Hey buddy, come on, come here now! Its Buddy, come!
– Be clear in your hand signals and body language. Do not use unnecessary movements. Stand tall and communicate calmly and clearly.
– If your dog does not respond to a verbal cue immediately (assuming it is one she understands and has practiced), count to 30 silently. If she complies during that time, reward her. The time between the cue and the response-known as latency-will get shorter with repeated attempts. If your dog does not comply, a consequence should follow. The consequence might be your walking away and ignoring her for two minutes, withdrawing a potential reward (like the treat you were about to give), or gently placing her into the requested position.
– If you must interrupt a behavior, use a soft but sharp Eh-eh! rather than a frantic or whining No, no, noooo, stop doing that right now! Once your dog has ceased the inappropriate behavior, calmly redirect her to another activity such as chewing an appropriate chew toy. (Ask for a sit before giving her the chew toy so she is being rewarded for the sit rather than for the inappropriate activity.)
For more on owning and training a fearful dog, purchase Help For Your Fearful Dog: A Step By Step Guide to Helping Your Dog Conquer His Fear by Nicole Wilde, CPDT.
A number of people commented on last week’s blog to say, in essence, “Why didn’t you straighten out that irresponsible dog owner?” All I can say is that it goes against my nature to give advice to people who aren’t asking for some — especially random strangers. I was deeply exasperated with him — but he wasn’t asking me for advice. I may have been negligent in failing to help the dogs . . . but what would you do, really? And what would you do if some stranger in a store told you what you were doing with your dog is all wrong?
This is actually something I’ve struggled with for ages. When my son was a baby I became newly aware and observant of other parents and babies in public places, and sometimes I wouldn’t like what I’d see, such as when (as one example) a parent would yell at or threaten a screaming baby or toddler at the end of his or her rope. I’d think, geez, that baby looks tired and hungry and probably shouldn’t be getting dragged through a supermarket right this second, and yelling at him certainly isn’t going to help anything. But would I go up to a nearly out-of-control parent and tell her that she is just making things worse? Ask her to please not yell at the baby, because there is a better way? Ack! Maybe a person should do that, but I’ve never been able to. I’m always too afraid that the attention will just unhinge the person even more.
And, haven’t most of us been on the receiving end of unsolicited advice? Its often unappreciated, if not resented. And sometimes, it’s just plain wrong! Not long ago, a supermarket checkout person asked me what I was going to do with the chicken necks I was buying. When I said I was going to give them to my dogs, she reacted strongly. “Oh my goodness, that’s so dangerous!” she gasped. “Dogs should never be given bones!” I smiled and said my dogs eat and chew bones all the time and are no worse for wear. I didn’t resent her, not at all, but neither was I going to try to discuss a complex topic like the BARF diet (bones and raw food) with a stranger.
Finally, where do you draw the line? There are other things I do with my dogs that would horrify other dog owners, such as feed dry food (actually, I feed every type of food — raw, canned, dehydrated, dry, home-cooked, etc. — but mostly they eat kibble) and allow them to ride in my car without being buckled into a seat belt or crated. I know a home-prepared diet is healthier, and yet I choose not to feed it daily. I know it’s dangerous for them not to be crated or seat-belted, and yet I take the risk of them being flung out of my car if I get in an accident. Should I be admonished — and equated with the guys who drive with dogs in the back of their trucks completely untethered? What about those who let their dogs drive down the highway with their heads (and shoulders and front paws) hanging out the car window?
I don’t have any answers here, but I am interested in what you think. When would you admonish a stranger for “doing it wrong” with their dog? And how would you do it? What would you say?
And how would you respond if someone approached you and your dog in a public place and told you, “You know, that’s not a great idea to do with your dog . . .”?
You’re probably wondering what on earth your dog’s diet has to do with his stress levels when left alone. The answer is, plenty. Have you ever drank one cup of coffee too many and gotten that jittery, wired feeling? You might have snapped at your co-workers, been more impatient than usual when waiting in line, or reacted with vitriol when someone cut you off in traffic. Likewise, have you noticed the way kids act when they’ve eaten too much sugar? They can become cranky and hyperactive. What we ingest has a direct effect on our nervous system. A long-term diet of sweets and processed foods will surely impact our health, but it may also cause us to feel less emotionally balanced, and even depressed, anxious, or angry. By the same token, eating a healthful diet contributes to a state of well being both physically and emotionally. It’s no different for dogs.
Dog food that is built on inferior protein sources and laden with unhealthy chemicals, preservatives, and excess sugars can contribute to issues such as hyperactivity, restlessness and nervousness. A healthful diet will go a long way toward allowing your dog to feel physically calmer, which will set the stage for a tranquil emotional state. Making wise nutritional choices will also result in better overall health for your dog, which will be especially beneficial as he ages.
I can’t even count the number of horror stories I’ve heard about ill-equipped, inexperienced, and downright irresponsible dog walkers. I’ve heard about dogs who were traumatized, injured, and even lost by dog walkers – which is why I’m always surprised when someone I know hires a random dog walker advertising their services on an app or from a bulletin-board flier without checking their references or interviewing them first. Would you hire a babysitter for a child this way? No!
In some areas, professional dog walkers bring their charges to off-leash trails or, as in this case, to a local dog park. This can be a huge benefit for a young, active, social dog – or a source of significant stress for an older, arthritic dog who does not enjoy socializing. Make sure your walker tailors the outing you pay for to suit your dog!
“Professional dog walking has grown rapidly over the past 10 years,” says Boutelle, former director of Behavior and Training for the San Francisco SPCA. But, she adds, it’s a young business. “There is currently no regulating body and anybody who wants to go into the business can hang out a shingle. But walking dogs, particularly in groups, takes more than the passion we all share for them. There is specialized knowledge and skill that walkers should possess to ensure the safety of the dogs in their charge, as well as themselves and the other dogs and humans who share the beaches, trails, and parks.”
That’s why Boutelle launched the Dog Walking Academy (DWA), the only organization that offers certification in dog walking, as one of the first programs of dog*tec, a company she founded in 2003 to help dog professionals succeed in their businesses. The DWA curriculum covers learning theory, canine body language, aggression, fight protocols, basic dog training, leash handling, pack screening and management, as well as successful business practices.
To become a dog*tec Certified Dog Walker, candidates must successfully complete an intensive training program, pass a hands-on practical exam and a comprehensive written exam, be certified in first aid, and pledge to use only humane, scientifically sound training approaches and ethical business practices. Through this commitment to excellence, the DWA is helping to establish the standards of this young profession.
Go with a Professional Dog Walker
Many of us are too busy keeping a roof over our own and our dogs’ heads to walk our dogs as far as they need to go daily. That’s where professional dog walkers can be of assistance. Whether individuals or a part of a dog walking business, professional dog walkers provide an on-going scheduled service for those of us who are not able to get our canine companions out for regular excursions, be it an on-leash walk, off-leash hike, or romp in a local dog park.
Dog walking is not a vacation pet sitting service or a general pet care service, though many dog walkers offer these additional care options. There are varied approaches to dog walking and the types available will be largely dictated by geographical location. In the San Francisco Bay Area, for instance, dog walking usually refers to walking small groups of dogs off leash on beaches, trails, or in parks. In New York City, it tends to be associated with walking groups of dogs on sidewalks. And in most urban and suburban areas, dog walking means single dog or small group on-leash walks in your neighborhood.
What all professional dog walking services have in common is the ability to get your dog good and tired, and return him safely to your home, on a schedule you choose: once or several times a week, or daily, if need be.
Our dogs benefit from regular exercise, just like we do. Physical activity can help with disease prevention, joint stability, flexibility, and cardiovascular health. Regular outings elevate a dog’s mood, stimulate his mind, relieve boredom and stress caused by inactivity, and provide social interaction and environmental enrichment.
The human client benefits, too, with relief from guilt and the worry that the dog is tearing up the sofa from boredom or anxiety. There is nothing like the peace of mind you get from knowing your dog is out having a great time and getting the exercise he needs! One also hopes for a better-behaved, relaxed, content dog to come home to at the end of the day. These benefits are profound and contribute to a happier, healthier life.
Choosing a Dog Walker
Obviously, it’s most important to find someone who will take great care of your dog. Again, anybody can call herself a dog walker, so it’s up to you to determine whether or not the person is truly qualified. Once you’ve located an individual dog walker or dog-walking business, interview the person who will actually walk your dog. Your dog should be present so you can view how the walker interacts with him and so you can assess how he feels about the walker.
A good dog walker (or the representative from a dog walking company) should have good answers to all the following questions:
1. Who will actually walk your dog?
Some companies are very small, with the sole proprietor serving as the sole dog walker; some might have dozens of walkers. Does the business employ independent contractors or employees? How are they screened?
2. What is the background of the person (or people) who will walk your dog?
How much and what kind of training have they had in dog walking? Have they had any education in canine learning theory, body language, and pack management?
Ideally, you want someone with professional training and knowledge and the skill set to implement this knowledge. They should use scientifically sound humane training methods and know how to assess and group dogs for maximum compatibility. They also need to be able to interpret canine body language, handle any issues that arise, take appropriate steps to prevent fights, and have the ability to properly break up a fight if one occurred – or protect your dog in case of an attack by a random dog on the street!
For these reasons, you should be advised anytime one of the walkers that you have approved is not available; don’t allow the company to replace your approved walker (without your knowledge) with an employee who lacks the qualifications you had sought out.
3. How many dogs do they walk at once?
Walkers may escort a single dog or as many as 20. Whether on- or off-leash, each dog added to a group increases the potential for conflict, injuries, lost dogs, and distraction, and makes it improbable that your dog will receive much individual attention.
Remember, the walker has only two eyes, two hands, and two legs. Some cities, counties, and park districts regulate the number of dogs a walker can take out together. Certified dog*tec walkers may walk no more than eight dogs at a time if they want to maintain their certification. Ask for private or semi-private (just your dog and one other compatible dog) outings if your dog is not suitable for or does not enjoy group walks.
4. What is the protocol for screening dogs who will be walked together in groups?
How are they grouped? By age, size, activity level? Because it can be easy for small dogs to be injured by one of their larger buddies, insist that your dog is only walked with other dogs about the same size (stick to the 50 percent rule: cohorts should not weigh more than double that of any other one in the group).
5. How will dogs that will be grouped together be introduced?
And what kind of management methods do they use? Not all dogs have good social skills or self-control. Your walker should know how to keep (and be capable of keeping) a group of dogs under control and safe without the use of fear, intimidation, or pain.
6. Where will your dog be walked?
Is the walker familiar with the local rules and regulations? Some areas that allow dogs have specific requirements for dog walking professionals, such as limiting the number of dogs allowed to be handled by one walker.
7. What kind of activities will your dog be engaged in? On-leash or off-leash?
Your dog shouldn’t be allowed off-leash if she doesn’t have a reliable recall, and any new walker should spend at least a few walks with her on-leash before she is allowed off-leash. If your dog doesn’t currently have a good recall behavior, don’t despair; a really good walker will have a protocol for both training a recall and for keeping your dog safe until your dog’s recall is reliable.
8. Will the person walk your dog in your neighborhood, or transport her elsewhere?
The walker must have an appropriate vehicle, and the dogs inside the vehicle should be safely restrained (with crates or body harnesses and seat belts or tie-downs) during transport. (We saw a nightmare story not long ago about dogs being tied by their collars in a big van; one dog broke her neck during transport by a dog walking company.)
When multiple dogs are being picked up and dropped off during transport, are the dogs left alone in a vehicle, and if so, for how long? (Client dogs should never be left in a vehicle while the walker participates in an interview with a prospective new client, for example. They should be left for only the minute it takes to bring a client’s dog back into their own home.) And is the vehicle always securely locked, so that no one could come along and release or steal the dogs inside?
If on foot, are dogs secured outside during the pick-up/drop-off process? Tying up dogs and leaving them alone is not an acceptable practice.
9. How much time do they guarantee on a walk?
Confirm that this time is exercise time and does not include any transportation time.
10. What equipment does the walker want on your dog?
Some dog walkers prefer to use their own equipment for a variety of reasons. (This keeps them from having to search their clients’ homes if the dog’s own equipment can’t be located, avoids damaging or dirtying the client’s gear, and ensures proper, correctly sized equipment.) That said, you should not give them permission to use equipment that you do not approve of, or that your dog finds aversive. Ideally, the walker uses your well-fitted equipment, outfitted with secure, up-to-date ID, and you make sure it is in good condition and ready at the door for the walker.
11. What kind of incidents has the dog walker encountered?
Have any dogs in her care been lost or injured? Safety should be a primary concern. Optimally a walker has been trained in pet first aid and emergency protocols. He should carry a cell phone and have your telephone numbers programmed into it.
What will your walker do if your dog is injured? He should know the location of the emergency clinics in the area as well as your dog’s vet and keep a signed veterinary release form on hand in case your dog needs medical attention and you’re not available. What will be done with your dog if another dog in the group is injured and requires your walker’s full attention? What if the transport vehicle breaks down? If a dog is lost? A natural disaster occurs? Is the walker prepared? If you don’t ask, you won’t know.
12. What if your dog walker cannot make it at the scheduled time?
Is there a back-up walker? If you count on the walking service to provide a potty break for a dog who can’t hold it all day, the walker’s reliability (or backup) needs to be impeccable.
13. Will inclement weather be cause for cancellation?
Is your dog walker familiar with the effects of inclement weather (heat, snow) on dogs and how to take precautions? Some walkers in areas with extreme weather provide alternative services when such conditions are present, such as potty breaks and indoor playtime and/or the use of interactive toys (stuffed Kongs, puzzles).
14. Will they provide a walk report?
Some walkers will leave you a note to let you know how your dog did during the outing as well as any observations or incidents.
15. Do they have references?
If so (and they should), check some! Don’t skip this important step. If each client you call has caveats or concerns about the service, choose another provider.
Ask to observe your prospective walker on an outing to make sure you’re comfortable with how she treats dogs in her care. Be aware that most group dog walkers won’t allow a client to accompany them in order to prevent their attention being diverted from the dogs. They shouldn’t mind you observing, however. If you’re hiring a walker for private outings, offer to pay her for a trial run with your dog and follow along.
16. Is the walker licensed, insured, and/or bonded?
Some cities and counties require professional dog walkers to be licensed and/or bonded. Licensing generally refers to having a standard business license, usually issued by the city in which the business exists. Check with your local regulating agencies to see if there are any special regulations for dog walkers.
In San Francisco, for example, walkers are required to obtain a license from the San Francisco Animal Care and Control in order to use city lands for professional dog walking. This city legislation is the first of its kind and it requires dog walkers to complete a training program like the DWA. Liability insurance is a must. Bonding (a bond provided by an insurance company) protects against damage that might be caused while performing a service; a walker may not need to be bonded if his insurance covers him in the same way.
17. Does the walker have a written service contract explaining services and payment policies?
Ideally the service should provide you with a contract to sign. Read it carefully.
18. Most important of all: Does the walker like your dog and does your dog like the walker?
Is the walker’s interaction with your dog gentle and kind? Does your dog want to interact with the walker? If your dog is normally shy, does the walker respond appropriately?
More Considerations
Keep in mind that the outing is for your dog. Above all, she should have a good time and get some exercise. If your dog is older and has health problems, the walk may just be a leisurely sniff and stroll. A good dog walker will assess an individual dog’s needs and adjust accordingly.
While many walkers have excellent training skills, the outing isn’t intended to be a training session; however, a good walker though should be able to follow any training protocols you have in place, and prevent your dog from developing any bad habits while out and about.
Know your dog and communicate what you know to your walker. Teach your dog a strong “leave it” to assist the walker in preventing your dog from picking up or eating inappropriate or dangerous items while out and about.
Speaking of eating, let your walker know of any dietary restrictions or food allergies. Inform the walker if your dog has been experiencing any changes in behavior or health (limping, lethargy, decreased appetite, etc.).
Always let your walker know if something out of the ordinary has occurred in between walks (a scare or a scuffle with another dog, for example) so he can keep an eye out for any side effects. In turn, listen to your walker if he expresses concerns about your dog’s health or behavior, or recommends or requests that you hire a trainer or visit your veterinarian.
And don’t forget to listen to your dog: if you begin to notice that your dog is not happy to see the walker and excited to go with him, it may be time to find a different walker or different type of activity for your dog.
Be aware of your walker’s cancellation policy and follow it. Understand that cancelling a scheduled walk has an impact. Walkers take only a small number of clients at a time and therefore a cancellation can represent a significant impact on their income. Remember, too, that walkers are not on call 24 hours; respect their hours and limit all but emergency calls to the work day.
Keeping Your Dog Happy
Dog walkers make a valuable contribution to the quality of life of the dogs they serve. Instead of being home alone all day, these dogs are given the much needed exercise and social interactions that they might not otherwise get. This contributes to their health and happiness, which in turn can help keep them safe and in permanent homes. Studies show that many dogs are relinquished because of normal expressions of boredom or lack of exercise, such as barking, chewing, destructive behavior, etc. Our canine companions are doing their best to adapt to our modern lifestyles; the least we can do is to take their well being to heart.
What About a Dog Runner?
Have a super high-energy dog, or a canine athlete who needs to maintain a high level of fitness? Consider a dog runner! These specialty dog walkers will run with your dog; most of them are marathon or ultramarathon runners who are perfectly comfortable taking your dog out for more miles than you can handle. Running is perfect for burning off an athletic dog’s excess energy or shedding excess weight from an overweight athlete (again, make sure your dog is in good health first).
Some running services even track your dog’s run with a GPS and then upload the information to a website so you can view the details of the run, including pace, total time, elevation, mileage, and a map of the run.
Dog runners need to do everything that dog walkers do, and also know how to interpret your dog’s well being, monitoring for signs of heat exhaustion, fatigue, or injury.
Ultramarathoner Bob Halpenny runs daily with dogs on the trails near Sacramento, California. For more information, see www.onthetraildogfitness.com.
Considering Becoming a Professional Dog Walker?
From the introduction to The Business of Dog Walking, by Veronica Boutelle (Reprinted with permission, copyright 2014 Dogwise Publishing; available for purchase in hard copy or ebook from dogwise.com)
“It’s a lot more complicated than people realize. Factor in squirrels, cats, and other dogs. Consider dogs with leash reactivity or a fear of strangers. Or dogs who like to chase things, including bicycles and skateboards. Imagine little kids with outstretched hands and adults with fear on their faces. Then throw in narrow sidewalks and off-leash trails…
“Still interested? Get educated and certified. Learn: canine body language, pack composition and management techniques, building reliable recalls, fight prevention and protocols, canine first aid, business practices. Start: a legitimate business with required licenses and documentation. Obtain: professional insurance. Research: rules and regulations for dogs and dog walking in your area. Talk: to other walkers to learn of their experiences. Ask: to observe or intern with walkers for hands-on experience. Consider: attending dog*tec’s Dog Walking Academy, now offered in at least 14 cities in the US as well as cities in Canada and New Zealand.
1. No. Headphones. Ever. A walker’s attention should always be on the dog and the surroundings.
2. No talking on cell phones except in an emergency.
3. Practice makes perfect. Ask for (and reinforce) your dog for loose-leash walking, and polite sits at street corners and when you stop to talk to someone.
4. Use good equipment that is appropriate for your dog (for example, if not well trained, giant dogs probably need more than a flat collar – and retractable leashes are not considered safe, ever). Inspect the fit and condition of all your equipment frequently. Ensure that your dog wears a tag with current information.
5. Pay attention to your dog’s body language. Chances are she will alert you about anything amiss on the street or trail long before you become aware of it. Whether that’s another dog walker approaching, a mountain biker flying down the trail toward you, or a mountain lion trailing you, an early warning can help you manage the situation – but if only you are paying attention.
6. Carry really good treats. Professionally trained walkers know that good training is built with top-shelf reinforcements.
7. Make sure your dog is healthy before starting any exercise program.
8. Do not let your dog run off-leash unless he has a reliable recall. (The only exception would be in a fenced dog park, during off-peak hours, so you could work on your dog’s recall!)
9. Manage your dog’s behavior! Don’t assume that it is okay for your dog to interact with every dog and every human you come across. Not only is it rude, but it can also trigger unexpected, and maybe unwanted, reactions.
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We have long advised puppy owners to have their vet run a “vaccine titer test” a few weeks after the series of “puppy shots” were completed. In our view, adopted from that of the canine vaccination experts we most respect (Ron Schultz, PhD, who has been involved in the development and testing of most of the vaccines used on dogs in this country; and W. Jean Dodds, DVM, a veterinarian who has extensively studied and written about canine vaccines), only a positive vaccine titer test can tell you whether the puppy’s immune system responded to the vaccines in the manner that was intended.
A brief refresher: Puppies are born with antibodies from their mothers still circulating in their bodies. (Some of these they gained from the blood they shared with their mothers via the umbilical cord, and some from the colostrum that they drank in the first couple of days after they were born). These antibodies “fade” (disappear) at a variable point – from a few weeks to as much as six months after the birth of the puppy.
A vaccination is a weakened, modified, or killed strain of disease antigen – the substance that could otherwise cause disease. We administer disease antigens to a dog or puppy in order to “teach” their immune systems to recognize them as invaders, so they produce antibodies that are specifically designed to recognize and neutralize those antigens. If the animals are later exposed to one of these disease antigens in a live, virulent state, the antibodies will recognize the antigens and annihilate them before they can infect and sicken the dog.
When his mother’s antibodies are circulating in a puppy’s bloodstream, and we vaccinate him (with disease antigens), the mother’s antibodies recognize those antigens and neutralize them. When this occurs, the puppy does not develop his own antibodies (protection) from the vaccines he was given. This mechanism is known as “maternal interference” – the mother’s antibodies have interfered with the vaccine. That’s why we vaccinate the puppy again and again: because until this maternal interference fades, the puppy’s own body can’t begin to recognize the disease antigens in the vaccines and develop his own antibodies to those diseases. Pups are vaccinated two to three weeks apart, in an effort to minimize any potential gap in coverage (between the fading of the maternal immunity, and a vaccination and resulting development of the pup’s own immunity).
On four separate occasions, my son’s new pup, Cole, was vaccinated at the shelter from which he was adopted. His age was estimated to be six months – the time when a puppy’s maternal interference is almost always gone – when I took Cole in for a vaccine titer test, to make sure he was what’s called fully “immunized,” not just “fully vaccinated.” In other words, to make sure he had developed his own antibodies to the diseases for which he was vaccinated.
Guess what? He hadn’t. The result of Cole’s titer test for distemper was negative. We assumed (like almost everyone does) that after all those puppy shots, he was protected, but if he had happened to come into contact with a dog or pup who had been infected with distemper, or had been someplace an infected dog had recently been, Cole could have contracted this often fatal disease.
Thanks to our knowledge, gleaned from the experts who inform WDJ, we found out that he was unprotected, so we vaccinated Cole again. We’ll run another titer test in about three weeks, and keep him away from dog parks and sidewalks until we have the results. And I will discuss vaccinations, titer tests, and Cole’s situation at greater length in the April issue.
My young Bouvier, Atle, has the triple threat of dog nails: black, stout, and surrounded by lots of hair. Regular nail trimming is not a task I relish, yet the importance of trimming nails can’t be underestimated. Left untended, long nails can splinter or break off, affect your dog’s gait, and cause orthopedic issues and pain. Although ultra-critical for performance dogs, proper foot care is required for the health and well-being of all dogs – couch potato or agility star.
Your dog’s feet are full of nerves that help him with proprioception; that is, an understanding of where his body is in space and relative to the ground (i.e., which end is up). When your dog’s nails are too long, messages to his brain get scrambled, altering his gait and posture. That’s anathema to integrative veterinarian Julie Buzby, DVM, CAVCA, CVA, founder of Dr. Buzby’s ToeGrips, a company that makes a traction aid to help elderly and other mobility-impaired dogs stop slipping on slick floors.
Dr. Buzby is passionate about canine nail care and describes the postural changes caused by long nails: “A dog with long toenails can’t stand with legs perpendicular to the ground. Rather, he compensates by adopting the ‘goat on a rock’ stance, where his forelegs are ‘behind’ perpendicular and his hind legs must come under him to prevent him from tipping forward.”
Dr. Buzby regularly sees dogs for orthopedic issues. Her exams start from the ground and work up; after a nose-to-tail physical exam, typically a nail trim is the first “treatment” on her list – even before chiropractic care or acupuncture. She recently saw a Dachshund who presented for lameness. His nails were long enough to deform the way his toes contacted the ground, altering his posture and gait.
I’m a sports-medicine junkie, so the idea that regular nail trimming benefits a dog’s gait and posture is enough of a “carrot” to get me on board. Those who need a “stick” to motivate them to maintain their dogs’ nails should consider the specter of broken nails (and the veterinary visits to treat them), which are prevalent in dogs with long nails.
“This is a fairly common problem in veterinary medicine and it’s gruesome to treat – painful for the dog and bloody,” says Dr. Buzby. “There is no conservative way to treat this injury.” Typically that means cutting the nail short at the nail bed by transecting the nail to remove the entire thing. She goes on to say, “Sadly, I can’t remember once in 17 years when this happened in a dog with short nails.”
Nails on the Floorboards
It’s not often that we encounter a Dr. Buzby who will tell us, flat out, that our dogs’ nails need trimming; the responsibility to monitor this is ours. There are a few telltale signs to help you know when it’s time to trim:
Your dog’s nails touch the floor when she is standing.
When your dog walks on surfaces such as hardwood or tile flooring, you can hear clicking.
If you hold up a paw and look at it in profile, the nail extends past the pad for that toe.
Though we’re often told that nails should be trimmed monthly, in fact, they should be trimmed weekly – two weeks at the outside – for best results. Some folks even opt for twice-weekly trimmings.
Front nails seem to wear less quickly than rear, and don’t forget the dewclaws if your dog has them!
Don’t Cut That Quick
Much of the hullabaloo about nail trimming revolves around the dreaded “quick.” This is the center of the nail where nerve and nail blood supply sit. Cutting the quick – as can happen accidently during nail trims – draws blood and can temporarily hurt.
In light-colored nails, the pink quick can often be seen from the top and sides of the nail, whereas in black nails, the quick is not visible from that perspective. To best see the start of the quick, Dr. Buzby recommends looking at the cross section of the nail (front/underneath) that’s visible once the first cut is made. In white nails, the start of the quick is white or pink, while in black nails, it’s grey or black. If you take off very thin slices and examine the nail after each slice, you should be able to avoid cutting into the quick.
Regular nail trimming at tighter intervals is said to help the quick recede, making it possible to trim nails shorter over time. Despite this conventional wisdom, Dr. Buzby, who uses clippers, does not see that happen; an informal poll of a few of her colleagues leads her to believe that most people who are able to get the quicks to recede use a rotary tool, and trim frequently.
Tools and Technique for Trimming Dog Nails
The most popular and most recommended tools are scissor-style clippers or a rotary tool/nail grinder (i.e., a Dremel). Dr. Buzby likes the control she gets with her Miller’s Forge nail trimmers, the same argument made by rotary-tool fans. She would “never use a guillotine-style trimmer,” a sentiment echoed by my dog Atle’s groomer, Angela Duckett-Smutney, who says the guillotine trimmers are harder to finesse. If your dog is less than perfectly cooperative and patient, it can be difficult to “thread” each toenail into the hole of the guillotine in order to cut it.
The following is Dr. Buzby’s technique for trimming using nail clippers:
1. Make a coarse cut off the top/front of the nail to remove obvious length. “The angle is very vertical and that is my trade secret!” This is in contrast to a 45-degree angle that is commonly recommended. Since the quick may not be visible on a black nail, the first cut is somewhat blind; err on the conservative side for this coarse cut on dark nails, taking off just the tip to start.
2. When trimming dark nails, many people remove only the tip, but don’t stop there! White or black nail, shave off small slivers until you can see that the quick is close to the cut surface.
3. Round off the sides/corners using smaller cuts. It’s safe to remove the sharp edges on either side of the nail without affecting the quick, since it runs in the center of the nail.
Some individuals prefer to take length off first using clippers, then finish the job with a nail grinder. Whether clipping first or not, Atle’s groomer likes to use a coarse 60 grit wheel and recommends a rotary tool that has significant voltage. She prefers to hold the rotary tool close to the wheel, using short strokes from the bottom of the nail up. She starts with one stroke up the middle, then one on each side at a 45 degree angle, holding each toe individually.
Beware of the hair with long-haired dogs! To keep it from getting wound up by the rotary tool, one recommended technique is to push the dog’s nails through a cheap pair of pantyhose prior to trimming. For these dogs, too, it’s imperative to trim the hair between the pads, as well as any excess hair growing around the edges of the paw.
Helpful Hints for Nail Trimming
The following are a few tips that can help with proper nail-trimming:
– In addition to our dread of cutting the quick, many dogs aren’t keen on having their paws handled, and/or aren’t thrilled about the noises associated with nail-trimming tools. See “Positive Pedi-Pedi’s” (WDJ August 2012) for tips on getting your dog desensitized to a nail-trimming routine.
– There doesn’t seem to be one favored position in which to place your dog for nail trimming; experiment and see what works best for both of you.
– Before you start a session, get out your Kwik Stop or other styptic powder – flour, cornstarch, and a bar of soap are all said to work in a pinch – to have by your side should you cut the quick. If you draw blood, don’t overreact! Quietly and quickly apply pressure and a pinch of powder to the nail. Your dog will be okay!
– Be mindful of how much pressure you’re applying to your dog’s toes. Hold her paw only as tightly as you need to – too hard and it hurts!
To keep yourself and others safe, introduce your dog to a muzzle to wear during nail trims if she tends to go on the offensive.
– One other novel approach to consider: train your dog to “do” her own nails by scratching them on a sandpaper-like surface.
If you’re still uncomfortable cutting your dog’s nails, ask your vet or groomer to show you how. Dr. Buzby notes, “It’s critical to keep this a positive experience for the dog. In my first practice, we educated clients on the importance of nail care and the veterinary technicians did a complimentary nail-trimming tutorial as part of every new puppy/kitten office visit. Veterinarians should be tackling both issues [why and how] through client education.”
Lisa Rodier lives in Georgia with her husband and Atle the Bouvier, and volunteers with the American Bouvier Rescue League.
I’ve had a number of older owners book lessons with me lately—more than half a dozen individuals and couples in their 70s and even 80s, all wanting some training help with their new dogs or puppies.
