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Be Not Afraid

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Okay, readers, it’s confession time. I’m about to tell you something that I haven’t ever confessed in these pages, not even hinted at it in 17 years: I once was so pig-ignorant about dog care that I allowed my dog – my best friend at the time, my stalwart, beloved Border Collie Rupert, to develop heartworm disease. It’s true, and deeply painful to think about now.

Whole Dog Journal editor Nancy Kerns

In my defense, I grew up in an area without heartworm, and didn’t know a darn thing about it when, just out of college, my then-boyfriend purchased the sheep-farm dropout puppy for me. Rupe outlasted that relationship by more than a decade – but only because I took immediate action to treat my dog once I learned he was infected.

You see, when my son turned one (and Rupert was three years old), he became fascinated with toddling – lurching, really, Frankenstein’s monster-style, arms outstretched – toward Rupert whenever he spotted the dog. And Rupe, as it turned out, was deeply uncomfortable with toddlers. It took only one air-snap toward my son’s peachy cheek for me to decide to send Rupe to live with my parents for a while. By that time, my relationship with Eli’s father was already over, and as a single mom working in my own startup business, I was exhausted. I realized I couldn’t possible keep my two boys separated every minute – and Rupe loved it at my parent’s home. They lived on 20 acres in the foothills of the Sierra Mountains, not far from a lake . . . . Cue the ominous music; today I recognize this as heartworm country.

Rupert stayed with my parents for about two years. After I sold my business and got a job for another magazine, and Eli was old enough to listen to and follow directions concerning the dog, I brought Rupie home to live with me again. It was wonderful having him, and once Eli learned to throw a ball for the typically ball-obsessed Border Collie, their friendship cemented. Everything was good. And then I took Rupe for some vaccinations at a new veterinary clinic.

It was the first time in my life I had ever been asked if I wanted a heartworm test for my dog. “What’s that?” I distinctly remember asking. I had no clue.

Long story short: It turned out that where my parents live is a Ground Zero for heartworm-infected mosquitoes, and Rupe had a heavy infection. I spent the few months nursing Rupert through treatment for heartworm disease. But in one tiny way I was lucky: The young vet at the modern clinic I had taken him to was an early adopter of the brand-new heartworm treatment, Immiticide, which was miles and millions of times more effective and less harmful to the dog than the previous treatment. Even so, Rupe had a rough time. The first week after each treatment, he spent coughing, gagging, drooling, and vomiting. He didn’t eat and didn’t drink. He ended up getting pneumonia, and spending days at the clinic receiving IV fluids, antibiotics, and steroids. It cost a fortune – and was so hard to watch. The heartworms had damaged Rupert’s lungs, and he was still intolerant of exercise for about six months after he had been cleared by the vet to run and play again; if he tried to chase a ball, sometimes he would suddenly collapse, panting, and I’d burst into tears. What had I done to my dog?

But he did recover – and lived to the age of 14. I don’t think he would have made it to age six with the heartworm burden he was carrying.

Today, veterinarians know far more about how to mitigate and even prevent the side effects that Rupert suffered in treatment. Prevention is better, of course (and today, I’m an absolute bear about giving my dogs heartworm preventives). But heartworm infection is not a death sentence; its treatment is a life-saving gift. Read about how to do it right in “Heart of the Matter“.

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Barking Dogs: A Rant

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Why do people expect dogs to be calm and quiet when they are left outside for hours and hours, with minimal protection from the weather – or at least, a lot less than they get indoors ­ – and nothing in particular to do? It has to be one of my top three dog – owner pet peeves. For me, there is just nothing as aggravating as listening to a dog barking incessantly. I both feel for the dog and feel murderous at the same time. Who do I want to murder? Alternately, the dog, the owner, and myself!

I’m ranting right now because there has been a rash of barking dogs on my block lately. My next door neighbor is dog – sitting for her sister, and suddenly there are two dogs who don’t feel at home spending most of the day in a strange (to them) backyard. There are no dog houses or covered areas in that yard, so there is no warm and cozy spot to curl up and take a nap; so the dogs are up and awake the whole time they are left outdoors. And it’s understandable that they don’t understand that there are cats, dogs, chickens, and humans who routinely walk around my backyard, and who do not constitute a threat to their own temporary quarters. But what is not understandable to me is that my neighbor doesn’t seem to realize, unless I call her, that the dogs barking every time I walk out my own back door is a nuisance.

There is also a dog over my back fence who lives outdoors 24/7 – which, now that I think about it, is my number one pet peeve of all time – and who barks whenever any other dog in the neighborhood barks. (Genuine watchdogs are one thing; neglected, untrained pets in town are another. What possible use is a dog in an urban yard who never gets attention, and how cruel is it to isolate an individual of a social species in this way?)

And then there are the neighbors on the back of the block I live on, who have two or three small dogs who set up a ruckus worthy of 10 dogs when people walk by their yard. The owners will occasionally yell “SHUT UP!” at the dogs, and eventually bring the dogs back into the house, but why not just bring the dogs inside without screaming at them?

I get distracted enough by the sound of barking dogs that I have done all sorts of things to prevent my own dogs from being nuisance barkers. I have habituated them to being outdoors regularly. I make sure they have ample fresh water and comfortable places to sleep. In the summer, I wouldn’t dream of leaving them outside unless the dogs’ sandbox is well wetted down before I left; it’s in a shady corner of the yard, and really the only cool place on my property when it’s hot. I have two dog crates out on my deck, situated next to the house under a porch roof, and covered in insulated crate “jackets.” The crates have the doors taken off, and I allow the zippered flap of the front of the crate cover to hang like a tent flap, so the dogs can slip inside for a cozy snooze any time. I have nice, thick fleece mats inside, and I take them out and wash them at least once or twice a month, to keep them clean and smelling nice.  The dogs often spend time outside when I am home, so it’s not a new thing to be left outside when I am not home.

I can leave my big dog, Otto, outside when I am away from home for even a half day or more, and I do expect him to refrain from barking incessantly when I do this. I’ll usually leave him with some food – stuffed Kongs or a nice big fresh juicy marrow bone. But I also let my neighbors know I’m going to be gone, and ask them to call me if they hear Otto barking; I can have a friend come over, if need be, and put Otto in my house. And I check with my neighbors: “Was Otto okay yesterday? Not barking while I was gone?”

I have two dogs, remember, but I don’t leave Tito the Chihuahua outside unless I am going to be gone less than a half – hour, because he does bark when he gets bored or anxious. When I am home, he will bark only when the mail delivery person or UPS person comes in the gate. But if no one is home, he ratchets up the security level to unbearable, and barks at anyone walking down the sidewalk in front of my home (which is one block away from the town’s main post office, so we do get some foot traffic!), anyone parking in front of the house, and the sound of any other neighborhood dog barking.

Anyway, I guess I am barking now. Maybe it’s strange for someone who likes dogs so much to be so unhappy about barking dogs. But I assume that the dogs who have nothing better to do than bark are just as unhappy as I am, and I really do feel their pain and anxiety, too.

(Aggression #3) Modifying Aggressive Behavior

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There are a host of other things you can do to lower general stress in your dogs’ environment.

Exercise can be immensely helpful in minimizing overall tension. Physical activity uses up excess energy that might otherwise feed your dogs’ aggressive behaviors, (a tired dog is a well-behaved dog). Exercise also causes your dog’s body to release various chemicals, including endorphins and norepinephrine, helping to generate a feeling of well-being; an exercised dog is a happy dog! Happy dogs are simply less likely to fight.

For more details and advice on aggressive dog behavior, purchase Whole Dog Journal’s ebook Modifying Dog Aggression.

Feeling lost

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I’ve mentioned a bunch of times that I have helped find homes for a number of foster dogs, and helped friends who were looking for a certain type of dog to find one who fits into their family perfectly. As far as I know, all the dogs I’ve placed into homes continue to live happily in those homes – with one exception.

A couple of months ago – on the same trip to my local shelter when I picked up my recent litter of foster puppies – I saw the cutest little dog in the adoption ward. He looked like a miniature Border Collie, or a Sheltie-mix, and was perhaps six or seven months old. He had been picked up as a stray and had been in the shelter for about three weeks. He was a little shy with people at first, but once you had him in your lap (he weighed only about 20 pounds) he would give his heart right over to you (and yours to him). So sweet, so sharp, so cute. I took a little video of him dancing for attention in his kennel and sent it to a friend who had been looking for either a Border Collie (she lives on a ranch 20 miles from the closest town in the mountains) or a nice little “couch dog.” This dog was like a perfect combination of her separate visions for her next dog or dogs.

She loved the video, and wanted the dog. The next day I picked up the little guy so I could foster him for a week in advance of his neuter surgery, so I could start his training and get to know him well enough to offer phone support for further training. My senior citizen friend has no income besides Social Security, so I paid the adoption fee.  At the end of the week, he knew a few basic cues, how to behave in the house, not to chase the cat or chickens, and that sleeping in crates (with your own private stash of bones and toys) is pretty cool. On a day that I had someone else to feed the litter of foster puppies, I put the little guy in my car and drove the 80 miles or so to my friend’s house.

My friend loved the dog, and the dog loved her, and it seemed like he was fitting right in. The ranch cats schooled him (“Chase us, will you? Well, we will chase you right back, you ignorant puppy!”), he learned not to enter the horse pasture unattended (he got chased out of there, too), and while alarmed at first when my friend shouted during football games, he quickly saw that excitement as a fun opportunity to bark and shout, too. My friend joked that she was going to call him “Velcro,” because he stayed glued to her side as she went slowly about her chores, feeding the chickens and the horses and checking the water troughs. Until one afternoon when he vanished. 

My friend didn’t see him go. She says he was there one minute and the next – poof.

She says she called and called, and drove up and down her dirt road calling. She let all her friends and neighbors (such as they are, miles apart) know she was looking for a little Sheltie-looking dog. He was wearing one of my collars and tags, and he is microchipped. But no one reported seeing him. She decided a couple days later that coyotes must have gotten him.

I was on deadline with the last issue of WDJ while this was happening. If I could have, I would have driven immediately over and spent days walking those dirt roads and calling for him. As it was, four days later, after the issue was sent to the printer, I drove over and put up “lost dog” signs for miles around. There has been no sign of him nor word about him.

I know this happens – obviously, or the shelters wouldn’t be full of stray dogs. Heck, he came into the shelter as a stray, picked up by county animal control! But my county is more populous than my friend’s; where she lives, the odds of someone seeing him and calling animal control are abysmal. And she’s right; out where she lives, the coyotes probably did get him.

Every time I see his picture – I took a bunch while I had him, he was so darn cute – it makes me feel so sad. I can’t bear the thought of him running through the woods, lost. Despite all the fun I had fostering (and placing) the puppies, I’m kind of burned out on fostering for a while. I miss that little guy like he was my own dog.

Last Foster Puppy Post

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I could not WAIT for them to go to their forever homes, and the last one went home on Saturday… and now I miss them unbearably – their relentless exploring and fooling around, tireless curiosity, darling miniature barks and howls and growls,

and cheerful learning during our many-times-a-day-for-just-one-minute training sessions. It didn’t help that I let the last puppy sleep with me in my bed, the last two nights I had him.

(That’s what happens when you leave on business trips, Mr. Husband!) I hope his new owner allows him to sleep on the bed; he’s the snuggliest puppy I’ve ever known.

Otto is getting a lot more kisses, however, so he’s quite happy.

Walking Your Dog Tip #3

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Have you ever felt dismayed over the shrinking access for our canine companions? I know that to a large degree we’ve brought it on ourselves by our collective carelessness about proper public and leash-walking etiquette.

Teaching your dog how to walk politely on a leash is more just a convenience.  When you can walk in public with your dog following your moves, he’s more likely to stay out of trouble.

The manner in which you hold and deliver your treats is critical to success with polite walking.

  • When you walk, have the treats in your hand but hidden behind your hip on the side opposite your dog. If you hold them in your hand on the same side where your dog can see or smell them, it will be harder to “fade” (slowly eliminate) the presence of the treats later on.
  • To deliver treats, wait for a second after the click! as you keep walking, then bring your hand across the front of your body and feed the treat.
  • Remember to click!, then give him a treat after a brief pause. If you begin to move your treat hand toward him before the click!, he’s just thinking about food rather than what he did to make you click the clicker.

For more information on how to reform a puller into a more pleasant walking companion, purchase Whole Dog Journal’s Walking Your Dog ebook.

Thoughts On (Foster) Puppy-Raising

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I know that all of my blog posts have been about puppies or puppy care or puppy food lately. That’s because I’ve been overrun with puppies since September 10th, when I agreed to foster six too-young puppies that were brought into my local shelter. Taking care of them has been a challenge, because neither my house nor my office was really set up for puppy care (though they are now), and because if you want to raise them right, puppy care and training takes a lot of time and energy. I haven’t spent so much time with so many puppies since I was a little kid; my parents were animal lovers, but they also were also completely inexperienced with and ignorant about the needs of animals and responsible animal care and control, and so we were forever looking for homes for litter after litter of “accidental” puppies.  But despite the investment of time – and money! – I spent on my foster pups, overall it was a great experience, one that underscored quite a few things I’ve learned over the years that I’ve edited Whole Dog Journal. Allow me to share some of the bullet points with you.

  • Good food makes a huge difference. When I got the puppies, they were in rough shape. They had big, round bellies – full of worms. Their coats were rough and aside from the bellies, their body condition was poor. I started them out on really good quality canned food, to which I added puppy formula (milk replacer). When they all developed the inevitable respiratory infections that pretty much all puppies at the shelter come down with, and were started on antibiotics, I added a goat-milk-based probiotic/digestive enzyme supplement (Pro Bloom made by The Honest Kitchen) to their daily regimen. That helped them handle the antibiotics and their poop went from goopy, disgusting messes to nice firm poops within a few days. When they were about 8 weeks old, I started offering them a quality kibble, and left some in their bowl to snack on between the canned-food meals. Of course, the deworming helped, but I think the top-quality food really helped improve their health and coat quality.

(It also cost a small fortune. The canned food I fed them cost $3 a can; they were eating 3-4 cans a day. The Pro Bloom is $24 for 16 packets, and I fed them one packet a day for about a month.)

  • Good “management” gear makes everything easier. I can’t imagine raising puppies without baby gates, exercise pens, and crates to keep them out of stuff they shouldn’t get in and safely enclosed where you want them. I bought one exercise pen on the day I brought the puppies home and it was so helpful I bought another within the week, so I had two safe environments to keep them in. That way, I could release them from one pen and feed them in a clean pen; I’d clean the first pen while they ate, then take them outside to potty and put them back into the first pen.

  • Socialization is critical to raising a well-adjusted dog. These pups were handled by everyone I knew who wanted to meet them. My son and his (young men) friends played with them endlessly. My two-year-old grandson romped NEAR them (but didn’t actually enjoy being mobbed by them, and I was worried about his stepping on one, so they played on opposite sides of the x-pen). My girlfriends stopped by to visit a lot more than usual. A friend brought over her elderly aunt, who used to raise German Shepherd Dogs but now has dementia. She spoke to them in German and had to be physically prevented from bringing one home. I showed everyone how to ask them to sit, and they were reinforced with treats, praise, petting, and attention. Because they had such frequent, varied, and uniformly enjoyable (not stressful) experiences, they readily approached any human confidently, happily, and without going “over the top” with frantic energy.

  • It’s never too early for training. From the beginning, when the pups were just tiny  (they were estimated to be about 4 ½ weeks old when I got them), I rewarded any puppy any time I saw him sitting. I’d bend down and rub him, feed him a little treat (I used tiny cubes of Natural Balance roll or bits of cooked chicken when I had recently made some), or toss him a toy. I’d make eye contact and say “You’re such a good boy!” As a result, by the time they were six weeks old, I could get the entire group to sit quietly and watch me on cue – a feat that did not go unnoticed on the occasions when I took them back to the shelter for vaccinations (and continued deworming – boy, were they full of worms). The veterinary technician who administers most of the healthcare wasn’t surprised by their behavior on these occasions (I have also taught the shelter volunteers how to teach the shelter wards how to sit politely in front of their kennel doors) but she was impressed by the six little guys lined up on the floor of her exam room, waiting their turns for shots (and treats). On the day I brought them to the shelter for neuter surgery, immediately prior to their being made available for adoption, even the shelter director noticed how quietly and calmly they were in the recovery room cages before and after their surgeries; all the rest of the puppies who were being spayed or neutered that day cried and whined and pooped and whirled in the poop in their cages. But “my” pups were used to being crated at night and intermittently for short periods during the day, and were calm (and kept their cages clean).

All of the puppies got adopted very quickly. I agreed to hold one for 10 days past the adoption date because the adopter was going on vacation the day after she met the puppies (a friend heard she was considering getting another dog and brought her to my house), and one of the others for 20 days past the adoption because the adopter, a lovely young woman, was still in escrow on her first home. She has since closed and is moving in and will pick up her puppy this coming weekend, when everything is in place to keep him well-managed. She’s come by to visit with him and is doing a great job of preparing for his care and training. It’s been fun spending time with him on an only-puppy basis – it really sped up his training and good manners to be around only my well-behaved adult dogs this past week, instead of spending 24/7 with another rowdy puppy. I admit I will miss him (and all the puppies), but boy, oh boy, am I looking forward to spending time with ONLY my adult dogs.

Handling Mistakes With The Jollies

You will make mistakes that scare your new dog. You will drop something that makes a loud noise, or perhaps even accidentally falls right on her. You will stumble over your dog. You will get caught in her leash. You will turn on the TV set without realizing that the volume is cranked all the way up. These loud noises and unexpected commotions frighten almost all dogs that are new to a home.

When you accidentally frighten your dog, it’s best to laugh it off immediately and play a quick round of The Jollies. Basically, you want to act as if you’re having fun, in effect saying, “that is so cool that I tripped over you and dropped the groceries and now there’s a broken glass jar that we all get to stay away from. Wow!” This is not unlike responding to a child who’s taken a tumble. Children and dogs look to us to see if they should be upset or not. Have fun while you move your dog to safety, and continue doing The Jollies while you clean up the mess and give her a treat or two. If she’s hiding just keep doing The Jollies. Don’t try to pet her or lure her out, though you may leave a few treats for her to take when she is ready. You’re trying to teach her that the world is filled with unexpected and startling events, but we don’t have to fear them.

For more tips and advice to train your dog, purchase Training the Best Dog Ever from The Whole Dog Journal.

Putting Together the Puppy Puzzle

puppy being held

Contained in the October issue is an article I wrote about internal parasites – worms. I needed art to accompany that article, and the best thing I could think of to depict a wormy dog was a photo of a typically round-bellied wormy puppy, the kind that is surrendered to shelters all too frequently. I called my local shelter and asked whether they had any wormy puppies with bloated tummies; it turned out that they had just received such a litter two days before, and I was invited to come down and take some pictures.

When I got there and saw the puppies, I was a bit shocked; it was obvious that they were too young to be separated from their mother. The person who had surrendered them said the puppies were eight weeks old, but it was clear that they were more like four and a half or (maybe) five weeks old. They were eating some of the canned food in front of them, but were still frantically searching for their mother’s milk-bar. I took the pictures I needed, but was haunted by the vision of their little faces, incapable of comprehending the change in their circumstances. “What is with all the cold concrete? Why are we all covered in poo? This blanket is okay, but where is mom?” The next day I went back to the shelter and volunteered to foster them until they were old enough to be adopted.

The funny thing is, several weeks prior, two dog trainers who regularly contribute to WDJ, as well as a newer veterinarian contributor, all asked whether they could write puppy-related articles for the November issue. I said yes to all three, thinking we’d have a nice little “puppy development” package as a result, and I’m so happy I did! The timing couldn’t have been better for me! Because their articles – which appear in this issue – arrived in my email about the same time as the litter of six puppies took over my office, I’ve had ample opportunity to use the experienced trainers’ advice for managing both the puppies themselves and the puppies’ interactions with my two 7-year-old dogs.

I’m also keeping in mind the information from shelter-medicine expert Jessica Hekman, DVM, MS, regarding puppies whose mothers may have sustained prolonged and severe stress while pregnant. Before reading the article, I hadn’t ever considered that a dog’s in-utero experience could have an effect on how the dog responds to the world months later. Given the poor condition of the puppies when I got them (parasite-infested, under-nourished, surrendered too young to a shelter), I imagine their mom hadn’t been having a great time lately, either, and I’ve been taking a precautionary “super socialization” approach suggested by Dr. Hekman’s article. (By the way, if you’re interested in hearing more about the pups, I’ve written a lot about this fostering experience on the WDJ blog page)

Final coincidence: I was due to write a wet-food review. I don’t regularly feed it, so opening at least four cans of food a day for the puppies was a good refresher in “what to look for, and what to look out for” in canned food. Enjoy!

Dr. Greg’s Dog Fish Diet tip #2

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I Can’t Say Enough About the Great Treat Bamboozle.

After dry food or kibble, the next most popular dog foods are the endless variety of treats available at grocery and pet stores – also the biggest moneymakers for the dog food companies. Treats can be dry as in kibble or moist like zucchini bread or carrot cake (I must be hungry!). Treats can also be chewy biscuits stuffed with meaty-wheaty sticks or rawhides. Almost all treats contain a high amount of carbs, preservatives, wheat gluten and beef by-products. Every day several miserable dogs become patients at my clinic after eating some kind of allergenic treat.

Treats are not meant to be a complete diet, so they don’t have to pass feeding trials or nutrient profiles that “complete and balanced” dog food does. The truth is that most treats are highly allergenic as well as high in calories, and lack any real nutrition. In human nutrition, they label this type of food as “empty” calories because it does not supply essential nutrients – just more unnecessary carbohydrates that are metabolized and stored as fat. Frankly, the feeding of treats is usually more of an emotional bonding habit than a nutritional necessity. Better choices: Hypoallergenic and more nutritious types of commercial treats made with chicken and rice, chicken and vegetables, or other non-allergenic combinations. Best choices: Baby carrots, pieces of deli meat, healthful leftovers or scraps, turkey hotdogs, green beans and even shrimp.

Ways to Manage an Adolescent Dog

Adolescent dogs, those from about 6 months to 18 months old, are playful, emergetic, and full of curiosity. Try to enjoy this phase while it lasts!

[Updated December 10, 2018]

Is your once cute, cuddly, and well-behaved pup suddenly acting out? Is your dog ignoring you, taking off if he sees something interesting, and chewing on everything in sight? Did his once perfect “sit,” “down,” “stay,” and “come” seemingly disappear overnight? Are his friendly, social ways being replaced with rowdy, over-the-top greetings? Is he sometimes cautious or even suspicious? Does he occasionally look at you as if he hardly knows you?

If your dog is between six and 18 months old, he is in the adolescent phase of life – where his body looks full-grown but his brain is still developing. Many of the so-called problem behaviors seen at the age, such as chewing, overexcitement, and distractibility, are a result of normal physical and developmental changes. Along with the brain maturing, the adolescent body is also going through growth spurts, secondary teething, surging hormones, and fear periods.

The teenage months are often a dreaded stage in a dog’s development; many dogs are given up to shelters or rescues during this phase because they are destructive or out of control. But adolescence doesn’t have to be terrible. In fact, it can be an exciting and fun time. As with their human teenage counterparts, adolescent dogs can be energetic, playful, full of curiosity, enthusiastic about learning, and ready for just about anything.
These following tips will help you not only survive your dog’s adolescence, but also help you both thrive as you travel through this challenging age.

Teenage dog

 

1. Exercise your young dog.

Adolescent dogs seem to have unending energy and stamina. Even an hour-long on-leash walk may fail to make a dent in your dog’s energy. Leashed walks often need to be supplemented with dog/dog play, high-energy games of chase, swimming, and opportunities to run and explore new areas. The more physical and mental exercise you can give an adolescent dog, the better.

However, adolescent dogs need down time, too. Quiet rest for a portion of the day can help keep his stress hormones from soaring too high (which can contribute to overexcitement). Balancing rest, physical activity, and mental activity will help your dog behave his best.

Also, keep in mind that adolescent bodies are still growing and that joints are not fully developed. To reduce the risk of injury, wait until your dog is more than a year old before you start repetitive, joint-straining activities such as agility, Frisbee, or long-distance running.

2. Create positive social outlets.

During adolescence, it is imperative that you continue to provide positive social experiences with humans and other dogs. To keep up your dog’s social skills with humans, take regular walks in your neighborhood or other areas where you will see people. Invite friends to your home so your dog will continue to understand that people are welcome in your house. Practice “four on the floor” or “sit to greet.” When people come over, use a leash if needed to prevent your dog’s jumping – and of course, use treats, attention, and/or petting to reward appropriate interactions.

For socializing with other canines, identify your dog’s favorite playmates and arrange times for romps and rowdy play. Walk in areas where your dog will see other dogs. For on-leash walks, be sure your youngster learns how to pass by other dogs politely, without saying hello.

For the opportunity to meet and greet new dogs, try beaches and hiking paths where dogs are allowed off-leash. Help your young dog learn to greet briefly and move on by reinforcing him with especially high-value rewards (whether super yummy treats or your dog’s favorite toy) for continuing with you on your walk.

3. Keep up your training!

Previous training often flies out the window when a dog reaches adolescence. When you say “sit,” your dog may sniff the ground. When you say “come,” he may act as if he doesn’t hear you. His attention may be everywhere but on you. Try not to take it personally! Developmentally, adolescent dogs (like human teenagers) are learning about the world, their place in it, and their own limits. They may be less interested in you and more interested in friends and the environment. They are learning to think for themselves.

Continue to train – or get started training if you haven’t already. Make training fun, and mix play and training time to keep your young dog engaged. Practice in the real world, but in situations that are not too challenging for your dog, so that he can get a lot of successful practice. Gradually work toward more distracting environments.

In addition, balance “impulse control” behaviors such as sit, down, and stay, with fun and expressive activities such as tricks. Reward your dog generously when he makes good choices on his own, as well as when he appropriately responds to your cues. Use not only treats and food as reinforcement, but also attention, running together, games (like tugging), and the opportunity to explore.

Your adolescent dog’s reliability may be hit and miss. Keep working with him, but remember that he is still growing, developing, and learning.

4. Manage your adolescent dog’s environment.

One of the most important pieces of surviving adolescence is managing your dog’s environment in such a way that he simply cannot get into a lot of trouble. For example:

-Limit your young dog’s ability to be destructive when he is not actively supervised by confining him in a crate or puppy-proof area, with plenty of exciting “legal” chew items.

-If your dog is still learning to come, always use a leash or long line when you are out in the world, allowing him to be off-leash only in areas where he cannot get into trouble and where you can easily capture his attention (or capture him physically!) when play time is over.

Your young dog will not know how to handle the world! Help him make the best choices; use leashes, long lines, crates, and baby gates to help prevent him from practicing unwanted behavior. Remember that adolescent dogs often forget what they are supposed to do, or get too overexcited to do what was asked. Be ready to help them in those moments.

5. Enjoy your dog’s youth!

Your dog’s adolescent energy, enthusiasm, and excitement can be contagious. Take the time to appreciate what your dog is experiencing and learning. And keep in mind that everything is not always easy for the adolescent dog. Other dogs and people are often annoyed with them. The world is sometimes overwhelming or even scary. Adolescent dogs don’t always know how to behave and that is stressful for them, too.

Celebrate your dog’s adolescent antics – his frequent invitations to play, zoomies through the garden, and his delight over the smallest things. Consider looking at the world through your adolescent dog’s eyes – explore with him, and try to enjoy where he may lead you.

Adolescence is the time your dog is becoming an adult. It is also the time your relationship is growing, developing, cementing. Think past surviving your dog’s adolescence to thriving with him through and beyond this developmental period.

Writer and trainer Mardi Richmond lives in Santa Cruz, CA, with her wife and her Cattle Dog-mix. She is the owner of Good Dog Santa Cruz where she teaches group classes and provides in-home training. She enjoys working with adolescent dogs because they are so much fun!

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