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Should You Race to Take Your Dog to the Emergency Vet Clinic?

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dog  Emergency Vet Clinic

Megan Brophy-McClean

If you live with and love dogs, chances are at some point you’ve found yourself at a familiar – and often excruciating – tipping point. “I just noticed (fill-in-the-blank),” you say to yourself. “Should I panic? and race to the dog emergency vet clinic?

The standard response that everyone gives – and for good reason – is this: When in doubt, see your vet. And of course, you should, if you suspect something is truly amiss. But you can’t go running to the dog emergency vet clinic every time you notice something weird, especially if it’s more an issue of benign bemusement rather than an out-and-out emergency. Problem is, you don’t know what you don’t know: Something that may seem really strange could be absolutely nothing, and a seemingly subtle symptom could be a harbinger of something truly disastrous. If only dogs came with an owners’ manual – or a customer-care line!

Actually, some sort of do, if you acquire your dog from a reputable breeder or rescue group. Folks who have been “in dogs” for a good length of time often amass a tremendous storehouse of practically gained knowledge, and that can come in very handy. And often, “dog people” are willing to share advice with novices, if only to help them sift out the trivialities from the true alarm bells.

I’ve been on the receiving end of those kinds of phone calls for a number of years, and on occasion I still make them, too. Here are some of the “emergencies” I’ve encountered over the years that turned out, happily, to be nothing to worry about. Again, reading about my personal experiences is no substitute for veterinary care, but at the very least you can add it to your storehouse of knowledge. Somewhere down the road, you might just need it.

When Your Dog’s Eyes Seem to Have Gone White

Most people don’t know the technical name for the dog’s third eyelid (that would be “nictitating membrane,” in case you’re taking notes), much less what it is. But whatever you want to call it, it can be unsettling when you glimpse this milky membrane glide across your dog’s eye – usually while she is sleeping, her muscles twitching as she partakes in some somnambulant rabbit-chase. The resulting all-white eyeball can look like a close approximation of demonic possession. No matter what it seems like to you, it’s usually perfectly normal.

The third eyelid, sometimes colloquially called the “haw,” is a translucent membrane that usually is not visible in dogs. Sometimes an eye injury, such as a scratched cornea, will cause the third eyelid to cover and protect the eye; some ophthalmological conditions, such cherry eye, can also cause the haw to be visible and prominent. In those situations, a veterinary consult is needed and necessary (though not a middle-of-the-night emergency).

More typically, owners notice the third eyelid when their dog is dreaming, in that middle ground between sound asleep and awake, when her eyes are darting around in dream mode and her eyelids are partially open. It looks a little freaky, but once she stops her slumber, the membrane will slip back where it belongs – out of sight. Here’s a video where one dog owner helpfully caught the third eyelid in action while his dog slept: tinyurl.com/thirdeyelid

Higher BUN in Raw Fed Dogs

If you’ve opted to feed your dog a raw-food diet, it’s important to remember that a lot of the so-called “norms” for dogs are based on data on kibble-fed dogs. As a result, your mileage can and often will vary.

For example, a 2003 study done by veterinarians W. Jean Dodds and Susan Wynn found that dogs fed raw meat had higher red blood cell and blood urea nitrogen (BUN) levels than dogs fed cereal-based food. If you have a routine blood panel run at a wellness exam, or if your vet has your dog’s blood tested as a diagnostic tool, a raw-fed dog’s high BUN levels will usually set off the alarm bells, because they can signal compromised kidney function.

Don’t assume that your vet knows that higher BUN levels are normal in raw-fed dogs. Several years ago, a friend who bought one of my raw-fed puppies took the dog to be spayed; when Dakota’s pre-surgical bloodwork showed an elevated BUN level, a newbie veterinarian at the practice admitted Dakota and put her on fluids. The worried owner called me, and I in turn called the vet, who then pulled the plug on the unnecessary treatment.

When Your Dog Isn’t Drinking Water

Another area of undue concern with raw-fed dogs is water consumption. If you are accustomed to living with kibble-fed dogs, a raw-feeder will appear to be a camel by comparison. That’s because unlike kibble, which has its moisture content extracted in order to increase its shelf life, raw meat is very well hydrated; raw-fed dogs aren’t constantly slurping up water because it hasn’t been removed from their food to begin with. I can’t tell you how many puppy people have called me over the years, seriously concerned because their new puppy has only taken a cursory sip of water. If the puppy is behaving and playing normally, I tell them, don’t worry.

Of course, there are diseases that can cause a dog to reduce her water intake, and any significant change in water consumption should be cause for concern. Fresh water should always be available to your dog.

Abnormal Canine Genitalia?

I promise I am not making this up: I had one puppy person, a very nice lady, email me in a panic about the severe flea bites on her puppy’s belly. A picture is worth a thousand words, and once I reviewed the one she sent me, I responded and told her she could relax: Those weren’t flea bites. They were nipples.

You can laugh, but the reality is that with the prevalence of spaying and neutering, for good or bad we have lost touch with our sense of animals as sexual beings. Since the dogs don’t use those “parts,” many owners have no idea what is normal or not normal regarding them.

News flash: Male dogs have nipples, just like male humans do, though they not immediately visible, even on short-haired dogs. Unlike male humans, who have only two, boy dogs have multiple pairs. And theirs don’t work, either.

Speaking of male dogs, you should know that neutering usually but doesn’t always eliminate their ability to achieve what we’ll delicately call a state of readiness. Owners who are distraught to see what they think is a penile infection might in fact be seeing the prelude to an erection: If you see a protruding something that resembles a pink lipstick cylinder, that’s basically your signal that Buster is very, er, happy. (Or, sometimes, stressed. It depends on the context!)

Wait, there’s more. Everybody knows that male dogs are neutered in order to prevent them from procreating, but a surprising number of people don’t know that this process involves removing the testicles. After bringing their dog home after the procedure, some owners grow concerned that those dangly bits were never removed, since it appears that they’ve reappeared. The reality: Post-surgical blood pooling in the scrotum, which is not removed, can make it seem as if the dog still has testicles. Keep an eye out for infection or a break in the wound, and, of course, call your vet if you are concerned.

As to those dogs who were neutered long ago but who seem to have testicles sometimes, but not others? When a male dog (neutered or not) has an erection, his owner might notice a pair of hard, egg-shaped lumps under the skin toward the base of his penis. This is actually part of the anatomy of his penis called the “bulbus glandis.” Most of the time, these “lumps” can’t be seen, but when the penis becomes engorged during arousal (sexual or any sort of physiological arousal, including play and stress), the bulbus glandis also becomes swollen and hard, appearing as if somehow the dog regenerated some very firm testicles!  Their appearance is normal, temporary, and nothing to worry about.

Lameness in Young Dogs

Orthopedic problems are always a worry in young dogs, especially in larger breeds that can be prone to hip dysplasia. I’ve had more than one dog inexplicably come up lame between the ages of six to 12 months, visibly limping on one leg or unable to put weight on it. Often the limp “travels” from one limb to another, and always gets worse with exercise. It looks pretty dramatic, and it’s easy to assume that it’s something very serious.

dog  Emergency Vet Clinic

In all those cases, though, what I was dealing with was paneosteitis – a fancy word for “growing pains.” No one knows what causes it, though there are plenty of theories, from high-protein dog food to viral infection to genetics. What everyone agrees on is that while “pano” is painful, eventually the dog outgrows the condition, and returns to normal.

Paneosteitis is common in a number of breeds, including Rottweilers, Great Danes, German Shepherds, and my breed, Rhodesian Ridgebacks. When a puppy owner reports that telltale “traveling” limp between six and 12 months of age, I usually suggest administering a baby aspirin (neverever ibuprofen products like Advil, which is toxic to dogs). If it is pano, the aspirin will usually relieve the pain within an hour or so (though it will likely return once the drug wears off).

Since there is no treatment for pano other than tincture of time, this lets the owner know to keep the dog from being too active (good luck with an adolescent!) and to see her vet and ask for some pain-relief medication if the discomfort appears too great.

It’s helpful if you know your dog’s history, and whether pano “runs” in his family. Again, don’t assume that your vet will suspect pano, even if your dog is the “right” age and breed for it. (Google “pano” and “Basset Hound,” and you’ll find plenty of links where veterinarians suspected – and in some cases, tested and even treated for – everything from elbow dysplasia to cancer.) Radiographs will reveal changes in the bone marrow that are indicative of paneosteitis.

If Your Dog Vomits Bile

The first time your dog or puppy vomits up a viscous pile of bright-yellow bile, it’s understandably a bit of a shocker. And vomiting shouldn’t ever be dismissed out of hand, as it can be a sign of a serious problem. But if your dog is acting otherwise perky and normal, what you’re likely seeing is a dog relieving himself of a build up of bile in his empty stomach. When “grazing” outside, dogs sometimes nibble grass, which also promotes bilous vomiting if the dog hasn’t had his meal yet.

Since the vomiting is caused by an empty stomach, you can often eliminate it with a simple diet change: Change your dog’s feeding schedule, or offer two meals instead of one during the day.

Look at Your Dog’s Poop

It sounds gross, but making sure your dog’s stools are consistent and normal is an important part of monitoring his health.

Quinoa has become popular with owners who feed a home-prepared diet. It appears on my “Don’t panic!” list, due to the curled appearance of the cooked germ, which can sometimes pass through a dog intact and easily be mistaken for roundworms in the stool. At least I find out who is really paying attention to their dogs’ stool, though!


Denise Flaim, of Revodana Ridgebacks, lives in Long Island, New York.

High-Tech Dogs

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My Border Collie Duncan solves all 10 of his interactive puzzles within five minutes; it takes me longer than that to fill them with treats! So when CleverPet announced its Kickstarter campaign for the development of a next-generation pet-learning console, I signed right up. Thirteen-year-old Duncan has pretty severe arthritis so I’m constantly searching for low-activity ways to engage him. This eagerly anticipated device features three durable yet sensitive touch pads that interactively light up and are designed to be touched by a dog’s nose or paw, triggering food to be dispensed. CleverPet adjusts learning levels based on your dog’s performance, which can be monitored through the website and an app-based program.

CleverPet, along with several other dog-related device makers and four speakers presenting on the intersection of animals and technology, were featured at the first-ever Pet Technology Conference, hosted by Smart Animal Training Systems and held at the Humane Society of Silicon Valley in Milpitas, California, in early November of last year. From the first speaker, I had a blast learning about the wide range of ways that dog lovers and scientists are using technological innovations to advance our understanding of and cooperation with dogs.

Pet Technology conference

Tech in Client Training

Ethologist, trainer, and behaviorist Jennifer Cattet started off the first day’s discussions with a look at how technology can help dog trainers help their clients learn. Cattet emphasized that dog training is at heart a “people” job; she emphasized that trainers need to be aware that clients arrive with their own value systems and preconceptions, are emotionally involved and concerned with their pets, may react emotionally and become defensive when their beliefs are challenged, tend to be task-oriented, and want fast results.

Cattet has found success in addressing these considerations with technology. She uses videotaping and apps such as the Coach’s Eye while clients work with their dogs, in order to allow clients to review the session and observe their dog and themselves, giving themselves a very different perspective of the training session. By engaging the client in this way, the teaching dynamic changes, the client becomes part of the solution, and technology enhances the relationship between the client and her dog.

Jean Donaldson, founder of The Academy for Dog Trainers, which was operated at the San Francisco SPCA for 10 years, was the next speaker and is another enthusiastic adopter of technology in education. Acknowledging that dog trainers have a high rate of burnout, she recently re-envisioned her dog-training Academy in the form of a two-year e-learning program; the new technology-based approach has expanded the scope and content of the course.

Now an on-line certificate program, The Academy for Dog Trainers has an expansive curriculum that includes the latest research in behavior and training taught through lectures, modules, practica, assignments, quizzes, exams, webinars, case mentoring, discussion, and support.

The course is implemented through Articulate, a hosted e-learning service that allows the creation of educational content and delivery, enabling students to self-pace lectures and interact with different platforms and programs. This is supplemented with the use of other technology such as videos, Moodle (an open-source education platform), Adobe Connect, Vimeo Pro, and extensive on-line archives. This format for education allows students from all over the world to participate and is proving to be a good fit for teaching trainers who, due to the very nature of the business, tend to work in isolation.

Tech for Treating Canine Separation Anxiety

The phrase “separation anxiety” strikes a chord of fear in every dog trainer I know. But when a good friend came to me recently about this very problem with her dog, I immediately knew who to refer her to: another speaker at the conference, Malena DeMartini, who discussed how technology has been a game-changer for treating SA. DeMartini works strictly through technology; in fact, she never meets with her clients in person. While DeMartini does miss the in-person connection, she firmly believes that the use of technology is integral to the treatment of SA.

DeMartini explained how her “intake” process begins with an initial consult via phone or Skype. She asks the same questions any trainer would during an in-person interview and reviews the dog’s symptoms and case specifics. In lieu of touring the client’s home (where the dog has been displaying SA), she has her clients take her on a virtual tour of the home via a smart device or laptop. This remote consult functions well, since the presence of a trainer can change the dynamics of the environment and result in an inaccurate assessment.

The training sessions are also conducted through smart devices, laptops, and cameras that not only allow DeMartini and her client to communicate in real-time, but also provide the ability to observe and study the dog’s behavior (DeMartini uses FaceTime, Skype, and Google Hangout). The use of multiple cameras allows her to guide clients through an absence protocol via phone or computer while observing the dog’s behavior in real time, and frequent observation allows for flexibility in treatment.

The technology removes much of the guesswork about what the dog is doing when alone, and because the viewing is done remotely, the dog is not aware of the trainer’s presence. Furthermore, technology has virtually eliminated so many of the client compliance issues of the past. DeMartini says the benefits of this approach include:

– More accurate assessments

– More convenient and thus more frequent reassessments

– More support for the client

– Potential savings to client because travel fees have been eliminated

– Increased client motivation due to the frequency of sessions and the resulting – coaching, encouragement, and cheerleading

Thanks to technology, DeMartini has created a protocol for SA treatment that has greater efficiency and success.

Tech That Improves Bonds

While all of the conference speakers shared their experiences of how humans can use technology to support working with or training dogs, Dr. David Roberts, professor of Computer Science at North Carolina State University, talked about improving the bond between people and dogs through the use of computer-mediated interaction. Inspired by a dream he had about developing some form of technology to put in between the dog and the human to help communication between the species to be more effective, he and his team members embarked on developing the Smart Harness (see the harness in this National Science Foundation video here: tinyurl.com/smartharness).

The team focused on developing a system that can help decode canine postures and body language and then interpret it in a form that humans can better understand. The platform, a harness that fits comfortably on the dog, contains a suite of technology with dual communication functions. The first allows humans to communicate with the dog through speakers and haptics (vibrating motors).

The second provides feedback to the handlers through the use of harness-mounted physiological sensors, which monitor the dog’s heart rate and body temperature and detect his posture and behavior, thus enabling handlers to assess the dog’s physical condition and characterize his emotional and mental states.

The Smart Harness can be customized depending on the specific application, such as adding environmental sensors for search and rescue applications that can detect environmental hazards such as gas leaks, as well as cameras and microphones for collecting additional data. The team is especially interested in addressing ways to mitigate stress in service dogs, particularly because working dogs are bred and trained not to display signs of stress and stress is one of the main reasons these dogs are often retired early.

Dr. Roberts is also involved with the Canine Instruction with Instrumented Gadgets Administering Rewards (CIIGAR) Lab at NCSU. Devoted to canine research, the lab staff use artificial intelligence, machine learning, human/computer interaction, cognitive neuroscience, social psychology, and behavioral psychology to help humans and dogs better understand each other.

Roberts admits that if there’s a dog around, he has a difficult time focusing on anything else; he credits the connection that he feels with his dog when training to be the biggest reason he’s doing this type of work. “It’s never going to replace the human interaction with our dogs, but what it can do is help us interact with them in new ways,” Roberts says.

Products Ready for Use Now

In between presentations, the conference attendees had the opportunity to view a few technology-based dog products. 

iFetch

Ideal for the ball-obsessed dog, this automatic ball launcher designed for smaller dogs launched a ball across the conference room. With a little bit of training, a dog can learn how to play fetch with his robotic buddy as well as decide when and how long he wants to play. The company hinted that it’s working on a new model to accommodate larger balls so the big dogs can play, too. See goifetch.com or call (512) 219-3271 for more information.

Pet Tutor

Pet Tutor™

The symposium sponsor, Smart Animal Training Systems, demonstrated its Pet Tutor™ through live demonstrations and examples of remote dog training. The Pet Tutor is a smart multipurpose feeder that can be triggered via remote or programmed to feed automatically at set times. It quietly dispenses only one to a few pieces of kibble at a time, so eating takes longer and becomes a fun and engaging experience. 

The device also offers new and unique ways to support behavior-modification protocols for issues such as barking and separation anxiety. See smartanimaltraining.com (the company does not list a phone contact).

Beyond the Conference

While this conference was the first of its kind, the use of technology in association with our canine companions is not all that new. My dog has been microchipped for 13 years. I use a lighted leash when we walk in the dark. My veterinary hospital offers the latest diagnostics and treatment equipment from MRIs to CT scans to ultrasounds to lasers to electrochemotherapy. 

What is new are the ways in which we now apply technology to the way we work, train, play, live, and communicate with our canine companions. As a culture, we are obsessed with technology and with our dogs, so it is only fitting that we are drawn to a combination of the two. The abundance of ever-smaller components created for the smart-device industry has allowed technology-based pet-friendly devices to proliferate at an unbelievable rate. 

The following are some of the other high-tech pet products or innovations I’ve been impressed by that are on the market or in development today.

Treat & Train® 

Sophia Yin, DVM, a pioneer in the field of merging technology with dog training, introduced a product that is similar to the PetTutor mentioned above – 10 years ago! Dr. Yin’s product was called the Treat & Train Dog Training System. Dr. Yin sold the rights to market the product to Sharper Image, who changed the product’s name to the Manners Minder™ Remote Reward Training System; it has since reverted to the name Treat & Train and is available through drsophiayin.com.

AutoTrainer™

The category of automatic reward-based training devices also includes PetSafe’s AutoTrainer, developed by Dr. Ian Dunbar and Dr. John Watson. This training aid was created to help eliminate problem barking and help calm dogs when their owners are away. A base unit dispenses kibble or treats and records the dog’s bark history; a collar transmits the dog’s barks to the base unit. The AutoTrainer uses the method of shaping behavior to decrease barking by marking and rewarding the dog for increasingly longer periods of quiet. Behavior that gets rewarded tends to get repeated. See petsafe.net or call (866) 738-4379.

GoPro Fetch

Want to see things from your dog’s perspective? Try GoPro’s Fetch, a dog harness/camera mount featuring two mounting-location options and compatibility with all GoPro adventure cameras for capturing your dog’s eye view with a video recording. If you want your pet to become a photographer, look at one of the many pet camera collars that take still photographs at set intervals. See gopro.com or call (888) 600-4659.

iCPooch

You can turn to a number of devices to help you interact with your pet while you’re away. The concept for iCPooch, a device that allows pet owners to interact with their pets from anywhere, was developed by a 12-year-old girl in association with her 8th-grade school project to stay in touch with her Golden Retriever. iCPooch utilizes technology to enable remote communication (two-way video, with the tablet required, not provided) and treat dispensing (via tablet or smart phone). You can check in on your pet at any time from anywhere (that is, provided your pet is near the unit). See icpooch.com for more information.

PetziConnect

The PetziConnect enables you to audio chat with your pet (as far as that is possible) and provide treats via smart device. The device has its roots in a popular Indiegogo crowd-funding launch that saw the company raise 265 percent of its needed start-up cash; dog owners are eager to receive and start using these interactive devices. It has the added options to take video and photos of your pets. The PetziConnect requires connectivity directly into an outlet, so placement is not as flexible as some of the other devices. See petzila.com for more information.

No More Woof

To further explore communication with dogs, the Nordic Society for Invention and Discovery, a small Scandinavian research lab, announced their plans to develop No More Woof, a device with sensors that is placed on a dog’s head to pick up EEG signals from the dog’s brain and attempt to translate this activity into human language.

The device utilizes microtechnology, special brain-computer interface software, and EEG sensoring to translate thought-pattern recognition into message such as “I’m tired,” “I’m curious,” or “I’m excited.” On the surface, the product appears to be a technology-based way of supporting what many of us already understand our dogs to be telling us, but advanced development could prove interesting. It’s extremely complicated to understand the canine brain and thought processes, as recent brain-mapping research with dogs undergoing MRIs has shown.

Veterinary Technology

Technology abounds in the veterinary field. 

Most of us are familiar with ultrasounds, CT scans, MRIs, and lasers. Many of us also know that dreadful period of waiting while biopsies come back from the pathology lab after a surgery. Because malignant cells are so difficult to see, researchers at the University of Missouri College of Veterinary Medicine are testing out “cancer goggles” that can help surgeons see the actual cancer cells during the actual time of an operation with the help of a contrasting agent. 

Dr. Samuel Achilefu, director at the Optical Radiology Lab and a professor of biomedical engineering at Washington University is the head researcher for this new technology designed for humans and other animals. It is hoped that the use of the goggles will reduce follow-up surgeries as well as decrease some of the anxiety, suffering, and pain on the part of patients (and owners). 

VacciCheck

A few years ago, the USDA-approved VacciCheck, a new technology that allows quick and easy titer testing for parvovirus, distemper, and infectious hepatitis using a small blood sample and a testing kit. Within 21 minutes, the test determines whether or not the dog has antibodies to these diseases (indicating the dog has been adequately immunized against the diseases); it also can indicate if the dog might be carrying the disease. 

VacciCheck has great potential for use in veterinary offices to prevent over-vaccination; an owner can ask for a blood sample to be taken at the beginning of a wellness exam, and by the end, the results of the test can help the owner decide whether further vaccination is needed. In larger facilities such as shelters, this technology can be cost-prohibitive and time-consuming for use on a regular basis (most shelters find that vaccinating is less expensive and quicker). However, many shelters use VacciCheck when they have breakouts of one the diseases, to assist with isolation and preventing the spread of these highly contagious viruses. See vaccicheck.com for more information.

Zumby

Animal Oraletrics plans to introduce a truly innovative canine oral-health tool in the spring of 2015. The product, called Zumby, looks like a dog toy but emits micro-current technology (undetectable to the dog) that finds the bacteria in a dog’s mouth, above and below the gum line, and destroys the bacteria’s cell walls. The technology has been safely used in humans for more than a century. 

Zumby is constructed using a super-durable, nontoxic, rubber-like material formulated to withstand strong biters surrounding the rechargeable battery/circuit board unit (which is encased in an even tougher material). Zumby is motion-activated and an LED light blinks when it is on; non-toxic conductive material delivers the micro-current treatment when activated by your dog’s saliva. Combating oral bacteria helps to prevent gum and dental disease and thereby contributes to overall health. See oralectrics.com for more information.

3-D Printed Prosthetics

Three-dimensional printing is revolutionizing the field of custom products, including those for dogs with special needs. Derby, a mixed-breed dog born without fully formed front legs, was recently transformed by 3-D printed prosthetics designed by his foster owner Tara Anderson. (To watch a video of this amazing transformation, see tinyurl.com/3DDerbylegs.) Anderson, along with her team at 3D Systems, developed a looping prosthetic that suited the high-energy dog; he took off running the first time they were put on him.

Gentle Guider

Because guide-dog harnesses can cause discomfort for dogs working long hours, James Langdon redesigned the guide-dog harness using a 3-D printer. The Gentle Guider is contoured to a dog’s body using a 3-D scanner and then fabricated with a 3-D printer; it is currently in development in collaboration with the Guide Dogs for the Blind Associationin the United Kingdom. The great benefit of 3-D printing is that highly customizable items can be created and produced for individual needs quickly and at affordable costs.

Academia and Education

The emerging discipline of animals and technology has inspired the creation of the Animal-Computer Interaction (ACI) Lab at the Centre for Research in Computing of the Open University, in Buckinghamshire, UK. Like the CIIGAR Lab, ACI was established to expand the boundaries of interaction design beyond the human species by exploring the interaction between animals and technology, designing technology to support animals in different contexts, and developing user-centered approaches to the design of technology intended for animals. 

ACI’s collaborative canine projects with partners from academia, industry, and other organizations include smart kennels to improve the welfare of kenneled dogs, biosensing harnesses to monitor welfare of working and companion dogs, wearable systems to support medical-alert dogs, and canine interfaces to support expression of discrimination by cancer-detection dogs. 

Impressively, ACI acknowledges the importance of user-centered (from the perspective of the animal) design for animals and strives to ensure that the design of animal-related technology is appropriately informed by the animals’ characteristics and requirements. Ideally, dogs will benefit significantly from the support of technology designed from a canine-centered perspective.

Looking Forward

When I was teaching dog-training classes, I would emphasize to my students that we owed it to our dogs to learn their language in addition teaching them ours. Much of this new technology can aid us in learning more about our companions, in becoming better communicators with our dogs, and ultimately, creating stronger relationships with them.

In an upcoming issue, I’ll discuss the wealth of new high-tech products that can help track and locate dogs (whether they go missing, or have been sent on a mission of some kind for their human companions), as well as products that can monitor their biometrics (including pulse, respiration, and temperature) – exciting stuff.


Barbara Dobbins, a former dog trainer, writes about dogs and studies canine ethology. She lives in the San Francisco Bay area with her Border Collie, Duncan.

Common Values in a Canine Blood Test

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Here are some of the values you might find on your dog’s chemistry panel, or “chem screen,” and what they may indicate.

dog blood samples

Albumin (ALB)
Low levels of this liver-produced protein can point to chronic liver or kidney disorders, gastrointestinal problems such as inflammatory bowel disease or parasitic infection. Elevated values can mean dehydration.

Alanine aminotransferase (ALT)
The level of this enzyme often rises when the dog has liver and bile-duct disease.

Alkaline Phosphatase (ALKP)

Produced by the liver, this enzyme can be elevated as a result of liver disease, Cushing’s syndrome or steroid therapy. Mildly elevated levels can be normal in puppies.

Amylase (AMYL)
The pancreas produces this enzyme to help in digestion. High levels can indicate pancreatitis, or inflammation of the pancreas.

Blood Urea Nitrogen (BUN)
Urea nitrogen is a waste product created by the liver and excreted by the kidneys. High levels might indicate kidney abnormalities or dehydration, while low levels can signal liver disease. Often compared with creatinine levels (see below).

Calcium (Ca+2)
Increased levels of this mineral can signal disease of the parathyroid or kidney, or certain kinds of tumors.

Cholesterol (CHOL)
Elevated levels of cholesterol can be symptomatic of a number of disorders, including hypothyroidism and liver and kidney disease.

Creatinine (CREA)
Like BUN, with which it is often assessed, creatinine is excreted by the kidneys. High levels can point to dehydration, kidney disease, or obstruction of the urinary tract.

Blood Glucose (GLU)
High levels can mean a dog is simply stressed, but they can also be a symptom of diabetes. Low levels can be an indicator of hypoglycemia, liver disease, and some types of tumors.

Lipase (LIP)
Released by the pancreas into the small intestine, this enzyme helps the body absorb fat. Elevated levels can indicate problems with the pancreas, liver or kidneys, as well as digestive-tract obstructions.

Phosphorus (PHOS)
Most of a dog’s phosphorus stores are in her bones, but a small amount circulates in the blood. High levels can indicate kidney failure, or the ingestion of a toxin like antifreeze.

Total Bilirubin (TBIL)
Secreted by the liver into the intestinal tract, bilirubin is responsible for the yellow color found in bruises, urine and, and its name suggests, bile. Abnormally high levels can mean liver disease or bile-duct problems, and help diagnose anemia.

Total Protein (TP)
Another value that can point to several issues if elevated, including dehydration or diseases of the liver, kidney or intestines.

Electrolytes (Sodium, Potassium, Chloride)
These electrically charged minerals in your body are involved in regulating many important processes, including blood acidity (pH), muscle function and body hydration. Because electrolytes are so integral to cell function, imbalances can be life threatening.

Electrolyte tests are important in evaluating vomiting, diarrhea, dehydration, and cardiac symptoms, and they can tell a vet what kinds of fluids to use with a sick patient, and if any kind of electrolyte supplementation is needed. They can also add important diagnostic clues for some chronic diseases: For example, dogs with Addison’s syndrome (hypoadrenocortism) often have low sodium levels (hyponatremia).

Gamma Globulin
Immune gamma globulins, also called immunoglobins, are antibodies that help fight bacterial and viral infections, cancer or parasites. Elevated levels can indicate that the body is mounting such a defense, while low levels could reflect a compromised immune system.

T4, FT4 and TgAA
The T4 test measures the levels of circulating thyroid hormone in the body. For a true picture of thyroid function, however, FreeT4 (which measures the amount of T4 available to cells and tissues) and TgAA (thyroglobulin autoantibodies, high levels of which can mean immune-mediated thyroid disease) should be run. Dr. Dodds calls T4 by itself “basically useless.”

Get Your Dog’s Bloodwork

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dog getting blood test

Made up of water, proteins, nutrients, and living cells, your dog’s blood is a biochemical tapestry, a complex canvas of interwoven values that, taken as a whole, offer a vividly detailed image of her state of health. Virtually every major organ of the body contributes its own threads, as do external things that you control, such as diet.

“Blood work” – that overarching term used by medical professions to refer to a buffet-like spread of blood-based tests and diagnostics – is the way veterinarians deconstruct what the body is doing, through the evidence its various organs and systems leave in the bloodstream. Whether a dog is healthy, ailing, or perhaps just a bit “off,” blood work often plans a key role in determining her state of health. (Of course, blood work is just one diagnostic tool, and a physical exam as well as medical history are also important components in arriving at a diagnosis or wellness plan.)

What is open for debate, depending on your individual dog, is when to do bloodwork, how extensive it should be, and who should do it.

Two Disease Testing Groups

When a veterinarian recommends doing “blood work” on your dog, chances are likely that she is referring to two distinct groups of tests.

The first is a CBC, short for complete blood count. This catchy acronym covers a trio of cellular elements found in the blood: red and white blood cells and platelets. All three have different functions, and provide different information to your veterinarian. Generally speaking, a CBC is useful for uncovering underlying conditions such as infection or anemia, which is a lack of healthy red blood cells.

Red blood cells transport oxygen to the body’s cells, exchanging it for carbon dioxide to be carried back to the lungs, where the process begins anew. The CBC examines the levels of hemoglobin, which gives blood its distinctive red color and is responsible for transporting oxygen. Decreased hemoglobin levels might mean a dog has a reduced oxygen capacity – a critical finding if he is to undergo anesthesia. Another important value is hematocrit (also called PCV, or packed cell volume), which measures the amount of space that red blood cells take up in the blood.

When these values are too low, the dog may be anemic, which isn’t a disease itself but rather an indicator of an underlying problem, such as poor nutrition, parasites such as hookworms, chronic infection, and even cancer, inflammatory bowel disease or hormonal issues with the thyroid and adrenal glands. Conversely, a high red blood cell count could signal kidney disease, cancer, or an acute condition such as dehydration.

White blood cells are made in the bone marrow, and are involved in battling infection and inflammation. There are five different types of white blood cells, and abnormal counts in each can mean different things. Levels of eosinophils, for example, are often high if a dog has a parasitic or allergic condition, while a dog with elevated neutrophils – which typically are the first to attack inflammation, and so are among the most common white blood cells – might be dealing with an infection.

The third type of cell found in the blood, platelets, help the blood to clot. When levels are low, the chances of bruising and bleeding are elevated – again, important to know if your dog is about to go under the knife. Low platelet counts can be caused by infectious and immune-mediated diseases, such as tick-borne diseases like ehrlichiosis, as well as use of certain drugs.

The second group of tests your veterinarian might order is often called a blood chemistry, or metabolic panel. This battery of tests – more than two dozen of them, if your vet checks off all the boxes – assesses the function of important organs like the heart, liver, adrenal glands, and kidneys by measuring fats, proteins, sugar, electrolytes (potassium, magnesium, sodium, and calcium), and enzymes, which provide information about organ function.

A common blood-chemistry value that owners often hear about is BUN, or blood urea nitrogen test, which measures how well the kidneys filter waste. Along with creatinine (another waste product produced by the kidneys), BUN gives a picture of renal health. High BUN levels may indicate incomplete absorption of proteins from the bowel at time of collection, a raw diet, or kidney disease, which is serious, if the creatinine is also elevated, or they could be a sign of something as potentially reversible as dehydration.

Better Safe Than Sorry

Blood work isn’t just a good idea for dogs who are unwell and in need of diagnosis. They are also important for healthy dogs – particularly before a surgical procedure. Most veterinarians insist on pre-surgical blood tests out of concern for possible complications from anesthesia.

“Blood work before surgery is absolutely needed,” regardless of a dog’s age or health status, says W. Jean Dodds, DVM, founder of Hemopet, a blood bank program for animals. “The number of cases where this was not done and a significant subclinical problem was missed is relatively large. About 50% of dogs in published studies have lab-test abnormalities on routine screening.”

Dogs who have abnormal results can have their surgery rescheduled if it is an elective one so the problem can be addressed. Or the veterinarian might opt to go ahead, but handle some aspects of the procedure differently – perhaps using sedation with a local anesthetic instead of general anesthesia, or administering intravenous fluids before surgery.

Owners may of course opt to forego pre-surgical blood work for their dogs; at the end of the day, you are your dog’s advocate, and have the final say about his care. Just remember that increasingly, some vets have made pre-surgical testing mandatory because of the risk of a subclinical condition that can’t be otherwise detected. And if there is the possibility of a hidden complication that could compromise your dog’s health, isn’t it worth the investment to find out?

First Time Blood Work

If your dog has a healthy and medically uneventful puppyhood, the first time blood work will be done is likely before spaying or neutering, typically as a juvenile or young adult.
When it comes to pre-surgical blood work in this scenario, “the main goal is to look for subclinical, or hidden, congenital liver or kidney problems,” says Julie Meadows, DVM, a clinical professor of primary care at the University of California’s School of Veterinary Medicine at Davis. Ensuring that the liver and kidneys are not compromised is crucial, because those organs do the heavy lifting in clearing anesthesia-related toxins from the body.

A partial panel for a healthy young dog like this might include BUN and creatinine, to gauge kidney function; ALT (Alanine aminotransferase, an enzyme that becomes elevated with liver disease), and total protein, which can signal hydration as well as liver and kidney function. In addition, Dr. Meadows says, many vets might also include PCV, or packed cell volume, “to assess the red blood cell count and screen for anemia.”

While many owners might never think of running blood work on dogs this young, Dr. Meadows underscores the importance of having some key values – “the biggies” – on board before putting the dog under. But there is such a thing as overkill. For a well-dog visit, “I would not expect a general practitioner to do a complete chemical panel and complete urinalysis,” she adds. “Those are things we do when an animal is sick.”

Baseline Blood Values

Most vets agree about the importance of pre-surgical blood work, and of establishing baseline blood values while a dog is healthy, so that later changes, if they happen, can be analyzed in context. But when it comes to determining when to get that baseline, and how often to check blood work throughout a dog’s lifetime, veterinary opinions vary.

In Dr. Dodds’ opinion, “for healthy dogs, an annual wellness physical exam and full laboratory testing are important. If the dog has any chronic low-grade or other condition, even in remission, testing every six months is wise.” And dogs who have been put on new, long-term medication, especially drugs that can tax the liver and kidneys, such as nonsteroidal anti-inflammatories like Rimadyl and Deramaxx, will need periodic blood work to ensure their bodies are processing them properly.

Because there are so many blood values to choose from, some veterinarians may order a partial blood panel, which Dr. Dodds says is typically “just a few of the serum chemistries, without electrolytes, and without amylase and lipase to assess pancreatic function.” She personally does not recommend partial panels, as she believes leaving out potentially important values in the chemical analysis can be “misleading.”

Dr. Dodds feels the following are critical for understanding a dog’s state of health: a CBC, complete serum chemistries, thyroid profile (a minimum T4 and freeT4 values, with TgAA added for breeds known to be at risk for autoimmune thyroiditis), and urinalysis. She adds that in an initial workup, the pancreatic enzymes (amylase and lipase) should always be run.

In an otherwise healthy dog, Dr. Meadows believes middle age – around five, six, or seven years old – is an ideal time to do a baseline CBC and chemistry panel, as well as a urinalysis.

“We aren’t expecting things to be wrong” at this age, she says. “If we do that lab work, we’re saying, ‘This is where the lab work ought to be at this age.'”

Similarly, there is by no means consensus about the age at which to consider a dog “geriatric.” Dr. Meadows uses 10 as a ballpark, but acknowledges that others’ mileage may vary. (And in some giant breeds, which tend to be shorter lived, senior-citizen status starts much earlier.)

In contrast to the mid-life baseline, blood work for a senior dog is “where we’re expecting lab values to start to change,” Dr. Meadows says. As for frequency, “it’s sometimes helpful to have a rate of change,” so that your veterinarian can track progress more accurately.

Once a dog hits his golden years, many veterinarians recommend annual blood work, in order to pick up problems early and try to address them before they begin to snowball. “With true senior screening lab work, we’re looking for things, and expecting to find them, because we want to intervene and slow things, and prevent a crisis,” Dr. Meadows explains.

This allows veterinarians to practice preventive medicine, she continues. “The glory of preventive health care is it gives a better outcome over time. If a dog’s liver numbers are perpetually trending up, I’d want to touch base with the family about what our options are, and how proactive they want to be with microinterventions to try to slow the progress of disease.”

In-House Veterinary Lab Work

Most all veterinary practices have a national diagnostic laboratory, such as Idexx or Antech, to which they send their blood samples. But most veterinary practices also have the ability to do in-house lab work.

The decision on whether to go “in” or “out” is basically “a question of the economics,” Dr. Meadows says. For example, if a veterinarian really only wants to run BUN and creatinine levels, it might be far more economical to send the blood sample out than to run it in house.

Also, the capacities of in-house testing units will differ from practice to practice. And a veterinarian’s decisions will vary from patient to patient. “On a sick animal, you might want results on the same day,” she explains. “But if I need to know what your electrolytes are, and I don’t have that capacity in my practice, I might do part of the blood work in house, and part out. There are all these variables that go into it.”

For her part, Dr. Dodds feels that in-house tests “should be reserved for a quick look at the animal. They don’t look at amylase and lipase, for example, and provide only basic CBC differential assessment.” By contrast, she thinks “reference vet lab testing is more comprehensive and reliable,” with the added benefit of getting a professional review of the results from the laboratory.

Antech dog blood samples

Each Dog is Different

Dogs are individuals, and there may be valid reasons why their blood work might fall outside the range of normal, and still be perfectly fine.

For starters, “there are going to be breed differences,” says Dr. Meadows, offering sighthounds as an example. With their aerodynamic builds and low fat reserves, speedsters like Greyhounds and Salukis often have thyroid levels that are lower than other breeds. A primer that Dr. Meadows and many veterinarians refer to for breed-specific issues is Veterinary Medical Guide to Dog and Cat Breeds by Jerold S. Bell, DVM, and Kathleen Cavanagh, DVM, BSc.

Age is another variable in test results. For example, ” for thyroid testing, young dogs – puppies and adolescents – should have higher levels and older dogs – 10 or above – lower levels,” Dr. Dodds explains. The testing laboratories don’t provide reference ranges for thyroid levels of dogs based on breed type or age; they provide the same listed ranges for all dogs, which, Dr. Dodds says, “is obviously misleading and can be just wrong.”

Diet can also impact test results. “Raw-fed dogs can have several lab values that differ from those fed cereal kibbles – for example, BUN and red blood cell parameters,” she continues. “The BUN can be high with a normal creatinine if the animal is still digesting and clearing urea protein nitrogen from the bowel – this is often misread by vet clinics as indicating renal disease. In young dogs, the lymphocyte counts are higher and total protein lower.”

If your dog is raw-fed, be sure to inform or remind your vet before any blood work is done, especially before a surgical procedure. Don’t assume that she will know about this differential regarding raw-fed dogs; otherwise, you might find that you’re incurring costs for pre-surgical hydration, or cancellation of the surgery altogether, because your vet is unduly concerned.

Finally, says Dr. Dodds, drawing blood after an overnight fast (no food or water after midnight) is preferable. “If a dog takes medications, like thyroxine, testing should be four to six hours post-pill. For other medications like anticonvulsants, it may not matter but should still be stated on the test submission form.”

A dog’s diurnal rhythm peaks around 2 p.m., Dr. Dodds says, so try to schedule routine testing in the morning or mid-day. “At least have it be around the same time of day each time, to compare apples to apples and not oranges.”

Blood Work is Worth the Investment

If you’re bringing your dog into the vet for a “routine” procedure such as a dental cleaning or spay or neuter, that line item on the bill estimate for pre-surgical blood work may seem like an expendable one. Ditto for your vet’s request to do blood work during your dog’s annual wellness exam, even if she is the picture of health.

Of course, in the end, the decision is yours. And it is possible to take things too far, like running test after test to run down one errant, “off” chemistry value when the dog is otherwise healthy and happy. But be sure to keep in mind the fact that blood work can be very valuable as a bellwether for problems that might be invariably coming down the pike. And if the outcome is no problems at all, then you hang up the phone with that most valuable commodity of all: peace of mind.

Dog Food Elimination Trials Are Worth The Effort

Allergies can literally cause a dog to tear his hair out, setting acute moist dermatitis (“hot spots”) into motion and triggering fits of paw-licking and head-shaking (caused by allergy-induced ear inflammation and infection). When this happens, many owners head to their veterinarians and beg for corticosteroids, antibiotics, pain-relievers, you name it; if it relieves the dog’s agony, they want it.

All of those medicines can help a dog who is in acute distress from an allergy attack. But drugs that are prescribed to address the fallout from the symptoms of allergy (scratching and chewing) shouldn’t be considered as long-term therapies for any but the most severely allergic dogs. It makes much more sense to try to identify the substances to which the dog is allergic, and then manage the dog’s exposure to those substances, than to continue giving him the food that causes so many problems and then treating those problems.

Most people who are allergic to shellfish avoid eating shellfish; few who have suffered swelling, hives, and itching after eating shellfish continue to eat the food and dose themselves with steroids in order to survive the aftereffects! So why do so many people take that approach with their dogs? We have two guesses: We suspect few veterinarians attempt to explain food-elimination trials to their clients, much less encourage owners to try one, because of the weeks of commitment and attention required. And we’d guess that many owners just want the problem treated right then, and when the dog’s itching stops overnight with a steroid, they put it out of their minds, as if the problem was solved.

Commercial Dog Food For Allergies

Specially processed commercial dog food for allergies is widely available from vets and specialty pet stores.

Owners of dogs who suffer from food allergies who don’t feel capable of or willing to carry out a rigorous trial may prefer to try a commercial dog food for allergies. One that has been processed in such a way as to render the proteins hypoallergenic, or one designed specifically for use in an elimination diet. Chances are good that your veterinarian carries at least one of these types of food. Some are limited-ingredient diets, available over the counter; others are prescription diets. All cost around 30 percent more than even the best nonprescription dog foods.

Dog food for allergies that are described as “low-antigen” are simply limited-ingredient products. These usually contain a single animal protein source and a single carbohydrate source – but they may also contain a lot of other ingredients, any of which your dog could be allergic to. If, after studying your own list of foods and ingredients your dog has eaten while displaying signs of allergy, you are fairly certain that you have identified an ingredient or ingredients common to all of those foods, you may be able to find and successfully use a limited-ingredient diet that does not contain the suspected ingredients.

“Certainly, if your dog stops itching on a diet containing whitefish and sweet potato, you can just heave a sigh of relief and feed that,” Dr. Fatcheric says. Keep in mind, however, that dogs who display an allergy to one food ingredient are prone to developing allergies to other ingredients over time. In other words, the whitefish and potato diet may be a blessing to your dog now, but he may eventually become allergic to whitefish and then you will need to start over with a search for a new “novel” food.

Dog Foods with Hydrolyzed Proteins

Products made with hydrolyzed protein are a completely different solution.

Hill’s Prescription Diet offers perhaps the best-known of these diets, z/d Ultra Canine. “This is a chicken-based diet, but the chicken protein is molecularly hydrolyzed into smaller amino-acid sequences, which the immune system does not recognize as foreign. Therefore, it won’t trigger an allergic reaction,” Dr. Fatcheric explains. In the dry version of this product, “starch” is first on the ingredient list, with hydrolyzed chicken liver second, and hydrolyzed chicken fourth; in the canned version, hydrolyzed chicken liver is second only to water on the ingredient list.

Purina Veterinary Diets offers two hydrolyzed diets: HA HypoAllergenic Canine Formula, a vegetarian food made with hydrolyzed soy protein (second to starch on the ingredient list), and HA Chicken Flavor, which also contains hydrolyzed soy protein as the second ingredient (starch is first), but adds hydrolyzed chicken liver and hydrolyzed chicken in the eighth and ninth positions on the ingredient list.

Royal Canin makes six dry foods and two wet foods that contain hydrolyzed soy proteins, as well as an “anallergenic” dry food that is made with “hydrolyzed poultry byproducts aggregate”- which turns out to be made from poultry feathers.  Royal Canin also makes hydrolyzed dog treats.

Be aware that the ingredients used in these foods look awful compared to products that meet our selection criteria (see “Whole Dog Journal’s Approved Dry Dog Food List 2015,” for more information about identifying a top-quality food). They aren’t intended for any but the most intractable, severe cases of canine allergy. For dogs who are hypersensitive to a number of ingredients, they may be the only solution that works well, or works at all. This is one of those rare cases when there are very good reasons to feed a diet containing what we would otherwise consider low-quality ingredients.

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Cheaters Gonna Cheat

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A friend posted today on her FB page that someone in her neighborhood association had bragged on the neighborhood’s online discussion page that they were able to “get a doctor’s note” claiming that their dog was a “therapy dog,” in order to avoid having to pay a pet deposit for an apartment they were about to rent. I hope and trust that my friend excoriated the person and the tactic.

It really seems to me that our society is quickly reaching the tipping point on this “emotional support animal” (ESA) thing. No one seems to know what the laws are concerning legitimate service dogs – and everyone seems to think that “emotional support dogs” are afforded the same rights as service dogs (they are NOT). The laws were succinctly described in a terrific article in the New Yorker magazine (October 20, 2014 issue):

“In contrast to an emotional-support animal (E.S.A.), a service dog is trained to perform specific tasks, such as pulling a wheelchair and responding to seizures. The I.R.S. classifies these dogs as a deductible medical expense, whereas an emotional-support animal is more like a blankie. An E.S.A. is defined by the government as an untrained companion of any species that provides solace to someone with a disability, such as anxiety or depression. The rights of anyone who has such an animal are laid out in two laws. The Fair Housing Act says that you and your E.S.A. can live in housing that prohibits pets. The Air Carrier Access Act entitles you to fly with your E.S.A. at no extra charge, although airlines typically require the animal to stay on your lap or under the seat—this rules out emotional-support rhinoceroses. Both acts stipulate that you must have a corroborating letter from a health professional.”

On my most recent trip, I changed planes in the Seattle airport, and was frankly astonished at the number of dogs I saw in the airport wearing service dog vests. Given that exactly one of the dozens of dogs I saw appeared to have any training whatsoever, I sincerely doubt that we are experiencing an anxiety disorder crisis of epic proportions in this country; I think that the word has gotten out that you can bring your smallish dog on planes for free if you claim he’s an emotional support animal. 

Why do I care? Mostly because I want the rights of genuinely disabled people with trained service animals to be safe from legislative rollbacks caused by widespread problems caused by untrained, unsocialized dogs being taken into places where they have no right to go. I want legitimate service dogs to be able to perform their important jobs without having to fear being attacked by poorly supervised, ill-mannered dogs brought into stressful public spaces by unscrupulous, overprivileged  grownup brats who can’t accept that some people have more need of their dogs in public than they do. And I don’t want the people who really need their dogs, and have invested in their training and use, to have to suffer from judgmental looks of people who can’t readily see their disability.

Was * I * giving all those people with dogs in the Seattle airport judgmental looks? I hope not. Because I did have a really nice conversation with a young couple who was traveling with their newborn baby and an emotional support dog; the dad was an Army veteran, and his wife was a current Army soldier. The dog was officially in support of the dad – and you could tell, because she took the job seriously, watching him like a hawk and continually touching him with part of her body. I’m sure being in the busy airport with a newborn was stressful, and while he spoke in a jovial manner, the keen way that the dog was tuned into him convinced me completely that he was far more nervous than he was letting on. I want to believe in and support the use of dogs like this – not shaking my head at the some barky dog on a Flexi who stops to lift his leg on a row of chairs in the airport terminal.

Be Cautious About Seeking Online Advice

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I often scroll through posts on the Facebook page of a rescue group that I very occasionally have the opportunity to help. It’s a large group, national in scope, and there are dozens of postings to the page daily. Some are from experienced dog owners, with decades of breed rescue under their belts (and dozens if not hundreds of canine lives saved), and others are from first-time dog owners.

It’s a generalization, but most of the experienced people posts pictures of dogs they own or have participated in rescuing; the newbies tend to post frantic questions about their dogs’ health and behavior, and ask for advice.

I often get ideas for articles that I think we ought to cover in WDJ in places like this – particularly when I see a topic that engenders particularly bad advice, or at least, little or no good advice.

More often than not, though, it’s painful for me to read the posts from people who are looking for advice – not because they are asking for help, but because they are looking for help in the wrong place at the wrong time.

It’s one thing to ask the opinion of other experienced dog owners for a minor, non-urgent problem – say, a very slow-growing wart on your dog’s skin, or a usually non-life-threatening behavior issue, such as counter-surfing (stealing food off the kitchen counters). It makes even more sense to ask these questions of people who have experience with dogs of the same breed or type, particularly when the issue you are facing is something that breed is known for. And it makes perhaps the most sense to ask a wide panel of people you don’t know when you have already consulted several relevant and genuine experts – that is, you have paid money to veterinarians or professional trainers – and have not received a satisfactory diagnosis and/or solution, or have received conflicting opinions about what to do. This sort of “crowd-sourcing” might just elicit some solutions or ideas that you haven’t already heard or considered; they sometimes do give you an idea of another avenue to try.

But it makes no sense to me at all to ask people you don’t know for diagnostic and treatment advice for something that you have no clue about – a condition that you have not yet brought to the attention of the appropriate knowledgeable expert. If your dog has a health issue that has you concerned, please don’t ask an Internet chat group what it might be or what to do about it; call your vet first! And then discuss the vet’s advice with your online friends. And if your dog’s behavior could cause harm to himself or others – if he’s developed predatory or aggressive behavior, has no recall, or escapes from your yard regularly – please start looking for the most experienced positive trainer you can find to help you with the problem!

I say this because I’m often astonished at the seriously bad advice that’s always mixed in with the well-meaning but useless advice and the spot-on sound advice that can be found on these boards. And each type of advice will have its adherents and people who “like” that particular approach; you generally can’t just go with the posts that have the most people who agree (indicated by “likes”). Sometimes, the posters are being sarcastic and/or humorous, and the newbies don’t understand!

A case in point: recently, I read a post in which the owner of a dog wasn’t actually asking for anything, but was simply venting about her dog’s latest health challenge and a large resulting vet bill. She finished her post with something like, “Ah well, it’s nothing that a few months of rice and beans won’t fix.” And several people actually wanted to know how feeding the dog rice and beans was going to help the dog’s condition!!

Anyway, that’s my pet peeve: going to an online board when you really need to be paying for expert advice first.

Have you read some bad online advice? Share some cautionary tales with us!

7 Ways to Whittle Away Fear

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The following tips on human’s body language are applicable when interacting with any dog, but are especially important when dealing with  a fearful dog.  Adopt mannerisms and teach others who interact with your dog to do so as well. 

  1. Let the dog come to you. If your dog is frightened, she must be allowed to decide whether or not to approach.  Don’t restrain your dog and force her to accept contact from others.  Remember the “fight or flight” response; if you take away the opportunity for flight, your dog’s choices are limited. 
  2. Turn to the Side.  Facing a dog directly is more confrontational than keeping your body turned partially or completely to the side; even turning your head to the side will make a frightened dog feel less anxious.
  3. No staring, please!  A direct stare is a threat in the animal kingdom (and on New York Subways!).  It is perfectly fine to look at your dog; just soften your expression and don’t hard stare directly into her eyes.  Do not allow children to put their faces near your dog’s face or to stare into her eyes.
  4. Don’t hover.  Leaning over a dog can cause the dog to become afraid and possibly defensive.  The one time I was bitten while working in a Los Angeles city animal shelter happened when I went to return an adorable, fluffy white dog to her pen.  While placing her on the ground, I inadvertently reached over equally adorable little pen mate-who jumped up and bit me in the face. 
  5. Pet appropriately. Approaching dogs by patting then on the head is ill-advised.  Envision the interaction from the dog’s point of view; a palm approaching from above can be alarming.  I do a demonstration with kids to teach them how to pet dogs properly.  The child plays the role of the dog; I tell the child that I will pet him in two different ways, and he is to tell me which is nicer.  First, I reach my hand slowly towards the child’s cheek and stroke it, smiling and softly saying, “Good dog!”  Next, I bring my hand brusquely palm-down over the child’s head and repeatedly, while loudly saying, “good dog, good dog!” Kids almost invariably like the first method better.  If dogs could answer for themselves, nine out of ten dogs would love vote for the first methods as well!  It’s not that dogs should never be petted on top of the head, but that head-patting (or petting over the dog’s shoulders, back, or rump) should not be used as an initial approach.  It is wiser to make a fist, hold it under the dog’s nose is to allow her to sniff, then pet the dog on the chest, moving gradually to the sides of the face and other body parts, assuming the dog is comfortable.  Likewise, a hand moving in quickly to grab for a dog’s collar is more potentially fear-inducing than a hand moving slowly to a dog’s chest, scratching it, then moving up to take hold of the collar. 
  6. Stoop, don’t swoop. Small dogs in particular are often swooped down upon when people want to pick them up.  Fast, direct, overhead movements are much more frightening than slow, indirect ones.  To lift a small dog, crouch down, pet the dog for a moment, then gently slip your hands under her belly and chest, and lift. 
  7. Watch your smile. While humans interpret a smile as friendly, a dog might not be as found of seeing your pearly whites.  A show of teeth is, after all, a threat in the animal kingdom.  A friend of mine once accompanied me to visit the wolves at a rescue center.  She patiently sat on the ground, motionless.  Finally, a large, black wolf approached to investigate.  Unable to contain herself, she broke out in a huge, toothy grin.  The wolf darted away as though she had raised a hand to hit him.  The lesson? Save the dazzling toothpaste for charming your dates and accepting rewards.  Smile at canines with a closed mouth. 

For more on owning and training a fearful dog, purchase Help For Your Fearful Dog:  A Step By Step Guide to Helping Your Dog Conquer His Fear by Nicole Wilde, CPDT.     

How to Stop Dog Humping

dog humping

Our 13-year-old Pomeranian, Scooter, loves to hump his purple stuffed bear. We find it harmless, so we don’t try to stop him. His intimate bear-time is limited because our Corgi, Lucy, shreds stuffed animals in the blink of an eye, so Scooter only gets his bear in my training center office when Lucy isn’t around, which isn’t all that often. But there are many dogs whose mounting behavior is more disturbing – because it embarrasses their humans, offends observers, or worse, distresses the person or other animal who is the recipient of the dog humping.

Scooter’s purple bear could care less. Other dogs, and humans who are the target of the behavior, may be intimidated, antagonized, or even injured by the overbearing attentions of a dog dedicated to mounting. I was once on the receiving end of a Boxer’s persistent mounting while conducting a behavior assessment at a shelter. This dog was so big and strong that he actually was able to pull me to the floor of the kennel – a frightening and potentially very dangerous situation had there not been other staff there to rescue me. And I don’t get taken down by a dog easily!

Dog humping isn’t about sex

Mounting behavior is most commonly not about sex. Oh sure, if you have a female in season and an unsterilized male dog mounting her, then yes, it is clearly about reproduction. But in today’s polite society, many dogs are spayed and neutered, and unspayed females in season are usually kept safely at home by their responsible owners.

Still, it’s common to see dogs mounting other dogs, humans, toys, other objects, and even “air-humping” – seemingly having their way with some invisible, imaginary subject. And it’s not limited to male dogs; female dogs also hump objects, people, and other dogs.

Like many canine behaviors that we humans find annoying, inconvenient, or embarrassing, dog humping is perfectly normal behavior. And like other such annoying, inconvenient, and embarrassing behaviors, it’s perfectly reasonable for us to ask our dogs to stop, or to at least reserve the behavior for times or places that are considered more appropriate by the human family members.

So why do dogs hump? Reproduction aside, the most common reason dogs hump things is in response to stress, anxiety, and/or excitement. A trainer friend of mine tells of a friend coming to visit – a friend who lives far away, visits rarely, and who is well-loved by my trainer friend’s dog, a pit bull mix. Roscoe was so deliriously happy about the friend’s visit that he made a full air-humping circuit of the living room before he could settle down enough to greet the guest politely. Our first Pomeranian, Dusty, would mount the sofa cushions if I took the other dogs out and left him inside. The stress of being left behind triggered the cushion-humping.

The stress and excitement of meeting other dogs is a classic cause of mounting, and one of the reasons you are highly likely to see the behavior on display in dog parks. Brief bouts that involve mounting of other dogs in canine social interactions – as long as they don’t lead to bloodletting or oppression of the mountee – are acceptable. Mounting of human body parts is not acceptable, nor is mounting that leads to dog fights.

There can also be underlying medical causes of canine mounting and masturbation. These can include urinary tract infections, urinary incontinence, and allergies that cause itching of sensitive body parts. In these cases, the dog is merely trying to relieve the discomfort caused by the medical issue. We had an allergy-prone Scottish Terrier who, in the middle of allergy flare-ups,  would do push-ups on the living room carpet to scratch his itchy private parts.

Attention-seeking can be yet another reason why dogs hump. Some dogs have learned that a really good way to get their humans to engage with them is to climb on for a little ride. Remember that for many attention-starved dogs, negative attention (“Bad dog, stop that!”) is still better than no attention at all. And if some humans find the behavior amusing, positively reinforcing it with laughter and encouragement, the behavior is all the more likely to continue.

How to stop dog humping

So what do you do to stop dog humping? The first step is a trip to your veterinarian to rule out – or treat – any medical conditions that may be causing or exacerbating the behavior.

Meanwhile, do your best to manage your dog’s environment to prevent, or at least minimize, the behavior. If he aggravates other dogs at the dog park, limit his social engagements until the behavior is under control. If he persists in annoying your guests, keep him leashed, crated, behind a baby gate, or in another room when company visits, so he can’t practice the unwanted behavior.

The longer your dog has practiced his mounting behavior, the harder it will be to change. It’s logical that the sooner you intervene in your dog’s unacceptable mounting, the better your chances for behavior modification success.

Neutering is another obvious first step. A 1990 study found a 50 percent improvement in mounting behavior in 60 percent of dogs, and a 90 percent improvement in as many as 40 percent of dogs following castration. (While both male and female dogs may engage in mounting, it is more often a male dog behavior problem than a female one.)

A 1976 study determined that within 72 hours of surgery, the bulk of hormones have left the dog’s system. Since mounting is partially a learned behavior as well as hormone-driven, the extent to which neutering will help will be determined at least in part by how long the dog has been allowed to practice the behavior. Neutered dogs may still hump after surgery, but the odds are greatly reduced.

dog humping behavior

 

How to stop dog-on-dog mounting

You will need to work harder to convince your adult, well-practiced dog than a young, inexperienced pup to quit climbing on other dogs. Additionally, there’s more potential for aggression with a mature dog if the recipient of unwanted attention objects to being mounted. With both young and mature dogs, you can use time-outs to let your dog know that mounting behavior makes all fun stop. A tab (a short, 4- to 6-inch piece of leash) or a drag-line (a 4- to 6-foot light nylon cord) attached to your dog’s collar can make the implementation of time-outs faster and more effective (and safer) when you have to separate dogs.

Set up your dog for a play date with an understanding friend who has a tolerant dog. Try to find a safely fenced but neutral play yard, so that home team advantage doesn’t play a role. If a neutral yard isn’t available, the friend’s yard is better than your own, and outdoors is definitely preferable to indoors.

When you turn the dogs out together, watch yours closely. It’s a good idea to have some tools on hand to break up a fight, should one occur. If there’s no sign of mounting, let them play. Be ready to intervene if you see the beginning signs of mounting behavior in your dog. This usually occurs as play escalates and arousal increases.

When you see the first glimmerings of mounting behavior, try subtle body-blocking. Every time your dog approaches the other with obvious mounting body postures, step calmly in front of your dog to block him. If you’re particularly coordinated, you may be able to simply lean your body forward or thrust out a hip or knee to send him the message that the fun’s about to stop. This is more likely to work with the younger dog, who is less intense about his intent to mount. Be sure not to intervene if your dog appears to be initiating appropriate canine play.

If body blocking doesn’t work, as gently and unobtrusively as possible, grasp the dog’s tab or light line, give a cheerful “Oops!”, then happily announce, “Time out!” and lead your dog to a quiet corner of the play yard. (The “Oops!” is what’s called a “no reward marker – the opposite of a reward marker such as the click of a clicker. It lets your dog know that the thing he is doing at that moment is not going to be rewarded, and in fact, it makes the fun stop.) Sit with him there until you can tell that his arousal level has diminished, and then release him to return to his playmate. If necessary, have your friend restrain her dog at the same time so he doesn’t come pestering yours during the time-out.

Keep in mind that the earlier you intervene in the mounting behavior sequence, the more effective the intervention will be, since your dog hasn’t had time to get fully engaged in the behavior. It’s vitally important that you stay calm and cheerful about the modification program. Yelling at or physically correcting your dog increases the stress level in the environment, making more mounting behavior – and a fight, or even aggression toward you – more likely to occur.

With enough time-out repetitions, most dogs will give up the mounting, at least for the time being. For an older dog for whom the habit is well ingrained, you may need to repeat your time-outs with each new play session, and you may need to restrict his playmates to those who won’t take offense to his persistently rude behavior. With a pup or juvenile, the behavior should extinguish fairly easily with repeated time-outs, especially if he is neutered. Just keep an eye out for “spontaneous recovery,” when a behavior you think has been extinguished returns unexpectedly. Quick re-intervention with body blocks or time-outs should put the mounting to rest again.

How to stop dog-on-human mounting

This embarrassing behavior is handled much the same way as dog-dog mounting. One difference is that you must educate your guests as to how they should respond if your dog attempts his inappropriate behavior. Another is that some dogs will become aggressive if you physically try to remove them from a human leg or other body part. It works best to set up initial training sessions with dog-savvy friends who agree to be human mounting posts for training purposes, rather than relying on “real” guests to respond promptly and appropriately, at least until your dog starts to get the idea.

For your average, run-of-the-mill human mounting, ask your guests to immediately stand up and walk away if your dog attempts to get too cozy. Explain that it is not sexual behavior, but rather attention-seeking, and anything they try to do to talk the dog out of it or physically restrain him will only reinforce the behavior and make it worse. You can also use a light line here, to help extricate your friends from your dog’s embrace, and to give him that oh-so-useful time out.

If the behavior is too disruptive, you can tether your dog in the room where you are all socializing, so he still gets to be part of the social experience without repeatedly mugging your guests.

If your dog becomes aggressive when thwarted, he should be shut safely away in his crate or another room when company comes. Social hour is not an appropriate time to work on any aggressive behavior; it puts your guests at risk, and prevents all of you from being able to relax and enjoy the occasion.

If your dog becomes growly, snappy, or otherwise dangerous when you try to remove him from a human, you are dealing with a serious behavior challenge. You would be wise to work with a qualified, positive reinforcement-based behavior consultant who can help you stay safe while you modify this behavior. The program remains essentially the same – using time-outs to take away the fun every time the behavior happens, but may also involve the use of muzzles, and perhaps pharmaceutical intervention with your veterinarian’s assistance, if necessary.

How to stop dog-on-object mounting

Dog owners are often surprised to discover that some dogs will masturbate. Our diminutive Dusty, pillager of the sofa pillows, discovered early in life that if he approaches someone who was sitting with their legs crossed, the person’s foot was just the right height for him to stand over a raised human foot and engage in a little self-pleasuring. As soon as we realized what he was doing, we squelched that behavior by removing his opportunity; we’d put both feet on the floor and that was that.

There’s really no harm in canine masturbation, as long as the objects used are reasonably appropriate (i.e., dog toys, as opposed to your bed pillows!), and it doesn’t become obsessive. Removing an inappropriate object or resorting to cheerful time-outs can redirect the behavior to objects that are more acceptable, such as a stuffed dog toy.

If your dog practices the behavior to the degree that it appears obsessive – a not uncommon problem in zoo animals, but rare in dogs – then you may need some behavior modification help. A behavior is generally considered obsessive when it is causes harm to the organism or interferes with his ability to lead a normal life. For example, if your dog is rubbing himself raw on the Berber carpet, or spends 20 hours a day having fun in the bedroom, you’re looking at obsessive behavior.

There are behavior modification programs that can help with canine obsessive-compulsive disorders, and they often require pharmaceutical intervention, especially if the obsession is well-developed.

The “Say Please” program

In addition to specific behavior modification programs for mounting behavior, a “Say Please” program can be an important key to your ultimate success. No, we’re not suggesting you allow your dog to do inappropriate mounting if he says “please” first; a Say Please program requires that he perform a polite behavior, such as “sit,” before he gets any good stuff (like dinner, treats, or petting, or going outside). This helps create structure in his world and reminds him that you are in control of the good stuff. Since a fair amount of mounting has to do with stress, and structure helps reduce stress, “Say Please” is right on target. See “Is Your Dog Spoiled?” for more details.

Eliminate your dog’s stress

Because stress is a significant part of mounting behavior, the more stressors you can remove from your dog’s world, the better. Learn to recognize signs of stress in your dog and reduce the stressors in his life.

“Good Manners” classes are also of benefit. The better you and your dog can communicate with each other, the less stressful life is for both of you. If he’s trained to respond promptly to cues, you can use the technique of “asking for an incompatible behavior” to minimize mounting. If you see your dog approaching a guest with a gleam in his eye, your cue to “Go to your place!” or “Leave it!” will divert him. He can’t “Down” and mount a leg at the same time. Nor can he do push-ups on the rug if he is responding to your request to “Sit.”

If you start early and are consistent about reducing your dog’s stress, removing reinforcement for your dog’s inappropriate mounting, and reinforcing alternative/incompatible behaviors, chances are you can succeed in stopping dog humping.

Therapy Dog

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My brother passed away a couple of weeks ago after a fairly short and intense battle against cancer. He leaves behind a wife and young daughter. It’s been a very sad, hard time for my family.

We held a memorial service for my brother last weekend. We rented a rustic building in a beautiful, wooded park in a Sierra town near where he had lived for many years. My sister who is a chef lovingly prepared much of the food. My sister in law’s many friends and co-workers helped up set up the hall, with live lavender plants on every table, and a local musician my brother had admired played the guitar. Friends and family members traveled from all over to help us remember my brother and celebrate his life.

My dog Otto and my son’s dog Cole were present for the event. Every member of my family loves dogs, not least, my brother’s five-year-old daughter. She absolutely adores Cole, and his eyes light up when he sees her; they get along like peanut butter and jelly. I thought, correctly, that she would enjoy having Cole at the event – and I knew Cole would enjoy socializing with all the guests. He’s happy and polite and well-mannered and his coat is like silk. I thought he could be a good therapy dog for the memorial.

To be honest, I brought Otto for my own therapy. I mean, he’s well-behaved, too, and I had him groomed the day before, but I didn’t think he’d ever make it in the building; it has slick floors, and Otto doesn’t really DO slippery floors. But I thought he’d be fine immediately outside the building; it has a covered deck that wrapped around two sides of the building, and we had the double doors on both sides of the building wide open all day, and I brought his mat and a bowl of water.  We worked for three hours to set up for the event, and the whole time, he mingled with all of the helpers – out on the deck. Several people tried to encourage him to enter, and each time, he politely declined, tail wagging but ears set back; nope, no thanks. Too slippery. So I stepped outside every 10 minutes or so to hold his head in my hands and compose myself. In between those moments, he lurked just outside one or the other of the doors.

People began arriving. We had distributed round tables with folding chairs all around the room, and chairs lined the walls, and at the time that we were supposed to begin, the tables and chairs were all full and dozens of people were standing in the back of the room. My sister-in-law asked me to be the first to speak, and I did, through tears. Then I sat down at the front-most table, and my sister-in-law spoke, and my tears only increased. And then I felt a dog nose nudge me, and I turned around, expecting to see goofy, happy, confident Cole, but instead it was Otto – wobbly-legged, panting with concentration, and clearly determined to comfort me. He must have heard my quavering voice, and somehow made his way through the crowd, across the entire floor, to offer himself to me. Oh, how I love this dog, and oh how he loves me, and I could not be more grateful.

He made that trip through the crowd several times during the memorial, growing a little more confident and a little less wobbly each time he did so. People reached out and petted him as he worked his way around the tables, and occasionally he would stop and allow them to pet him for several minutes before setting out again. It was really something to see, my new therapy dog.

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