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5 Professional Dog Training Tips

As a professional trainer, I’ve recently been in the middle of “puppy season.” At the training school where I’m on staff, recent puppy classes have been full with a wait list. Inevitably, at least one exasperated owner each week will exclaim, “Oh, my gosh! Puppies are so much work!” as she flops her overwhelmed self into a chair, her puppy dancing distractedly at the end of her leash, while fellow owners sigh and nod in agreement.

Yes, raising and training a puppy – or any dog – takes work, but it doesn’t need to feel overwhelming – at least, not the majority of the time! The more you know, the easier it gets. As I think about my own approach to raising and living with dogs, and that of many of my colleagues, I realize we engage in numerous behaviors that are extraordinarily helpful – yet it’s often difficult to get the pet owners we work for to try them! Don’t resist! The following five tips can help you train like a pro:

1. Start Proactively Managing Your Dog’s Actions

I can’t stress this enough! I would much rather proactively prevent the development of bad habits via humane management than give a puppy, adolescent, or newly adopted dog too much freedom and have to fix things later. When left to their own devices, it’s easy for dogs to experiment with unwanted behaviors, and, like people, dogs get good at whatever they practice!

Until your dog truly understands what constitutes the behaviors you desire from him and is motivated to perform them, you have only two good options:

a) Assume the role of active trainer and help the dog perform correctly, and

b) Prevent the rehearsal of unwanted behavior.

Of course, good training is the most reliable path toward long-term success, but in our busy lives, active training isn’t always convenient. Our households may contain a variety of people with varying levels of interest in the dog, and our days are met with myriad responsibilities. It’s not realistic to think we’re always in a position to play the role of effective dog trainer. That’s where management becomes so important.

puppy gate

Jennifer Bjorklund-Lloyd

Good management helps prevent problem behaviors, or prevents them from getting worse. It may consist of something as simple as restricting access to front-facing windows (if your dog nuisance-barks at passersby) or gating a counter-surfing dog out of the kitchen when you can’t supervise, or numerous other scenarios where a temporary “quick fix” might be appreciated. It’s a great way to create “breathing room” while deciding how best to address an issue in the long term.

2. Pay Your Dog in Valuable Currency – Treats!

When it comes to using food in training, what, how, when, and how much are powerful variables to consider. There are lots of ways to reinforce a dog beyond simply using food, but food is so powerful and so effective in the vast majority of cases that we feel its use should be thoroughly explored.

Because we’ve seen food treats work so well, trainers will usually experiment with a variety of food items to help discover what motivates a dog; we understand what is motivating in one setting might not cut the mustard under different circumstances.

Most trainers I know prefer high-quality, meat-based treats for the nutritional content and palatability, and we aren’t afraid to “go big” with “people” food like cooked meats or cheese when needed. While many of the name-brand dog treats on the market have considerable advertising budgets, and we’ve grown up on the commercials, for many dogs, simulated steak, sausages, and assorted crunchy biscuits just don’t cut it.

Once you’ve found a menu of food items deemed valuable to your dog, it’s important to consider how the food is used to affect both your training and your relationship.

In short, food given when a dog performs correctly is a reward. Food that only appears when a dog doesn’t respond to cues is a lure. Trainers stop using lures the moment they can get the dog to do a behavior without one, and are careful to quickly reward and shape the dog’s increasingly quicker and more accurate attempts at the behavior after hearing or seeing the cue.

If you find yourself luring often, it’s important to carefully evaluate the situation. It’s possible that your dog thinks the proper sequence is, “I hear or see the cue; I wait; the lure appears; I do the behavior; and I get the treat!” Another possibility is that he doesn’t understand the behavior as well as you thought he did; it’s not uncommon to think a dog “knows” something long before the behavior is truly fluent. (See “Fluency and Generalization in Dog Training,” December 2015.)

Even how you deliver a treat makes a difference. The biggest advantage to using soft treats is the ability to quickly break them up during delivery. When I want to make a big impression on my dog, I’ll offer what he thinks is 10 treats, when, really, it’s only two pieces quickly torn into even smaller pieces as I deliver them one at a time. Dogs are excellent cookie accountants, and 10 treats are better than two. As I often say to clients, “Treats just need to be big enough for the dog to taste them on the way down!”

When rewarding with food, remember, the greater the distraction, the higher the rate of reinforcement needed. If your social dog is highly excited by visitors and wants to jump, he might initially need a treat every two seconds to convince him it’s “worth it” to keep his feet on the floor when exciting guests are present. If your dog is very environmentally aware, he might initially need a treat for every step he takes while maintaining a loose leash. The key word is “initially.” Not forever, but we have to start somewhere.

If you’re concerned about the quantity of treats used, set aside and then use part of your dog’s kibble; it’s calories he’d eat anyway, and now you can leverage them to your benefit.

Another secret: It matters how you interact with your dog during treat delivery, too. Are you a robotic Pez dispenser, or are treats often accompanied by genuine praise and petting in ways your dog finds enjoyable? Keep in mind that classical conditioning is always at play. When you pair treats with praise and petting, you build positive associations that make your praise and petting more valuable to your dog, even when given without food.

3. Be a Team Leader, Not a Pack Leader

The concept of pack leadership is still alive and well in modern-day dog training, and, in my opinion, it brings with it a lot of baggage, namely that it’s important for humans to be “dominant” over their dogs by “winning” behavioral battles and not letting dogs “get away with” failing to comply with a “command.” Blech!

I do believe dogs benefit from leadership, but it’s more about their need for clarity in understanding what works and what doesn’t (good training!) than asserting dominance over a subordinate.

I prefer to think of my dogs and myself as a team. Sure, I’m the team captain, and as such, I appreciate being treated by my canine teammates in ways that feel “respectful,” but I also understand how, as team captain, it’s my responsibility to fairly teach my dogs the skills they need in order to help them appropriately exist in our human-oriented world.

Good trainers understand a dog’s “disobedience” is not a personal attack against the handler; it’s a sign the dog is struggling to handle something difficult, and a clear indication he needs some help. Misbehavior isn’t a dog’s dominant attempt to take over the household, it’s just behavior, and behavior can be changed.

4. Be Patient with Your Dog

Behavior can be changed, but true behavior change takes time. It’s important to be patient and commit oneself to a training protocol for a good bit of time before deciding it’s not working.

In one of my favorite books, Tales of Two Species, Patricia McConnell writes, “It takes growing humans about 20 years to learn to control their emotions (Okay, some people never do!), so be patient with your dogs and think in terms of months and years when training, not days and weeks.” I love that!

Remember to break behaviors into easier steps and look for small areas of improvement along the way. Modifying well-rehearsed and complex behavior issues happens through a series of baby steps. Learning to recognize those small elements of progress goes a long way toward motivating yourself to keep at it.

Keep a log of your dog’s behavior. Even something as simple as a few words on the calendar can help you recognize behavior trends.

In the meantime, if you’re dealing with complex behavior issues such as aggression or anxiety, know that you have the empathy of others. You brought a dog into your home because you wanted a canine companion, not a complicated training project. It’s okay to sometimes feel frustrated, but try not to let those feelings cloud your ability to maintain realistic expectations and recognize small accomplishments along the way.

5. Be Present with Your Dog

Take the time to really see the wonderful creature with whom you share your life. When you take your dog for a walk, pay attention to your dog. Interact with him. Play with him. Practice behaviors. Make it easy for your dog to be correct and reward correct behavior.

Also – and this is a big one these days – stay off of your phone! If you want your dog to pay attention to you when you feel it’s important, your dog needs to believe your attention, in general, has value, and he needs a strong history of rewarding experiences. Aspire to create meaningful, engaged interactions with your dog on a daily basis, whatever that looks like for the two of you.

Similarly, remember to meet your dog at his level during every training session and every real-world encounter. Clients often exclaim, “He’s not like this at home!” or “He does it at home!” when their dogs struggle to perform as requested in a busy group class. Dogs are context-specific; generalization takes time.

Do whatever is necessary to help your dog be successful given the current circumstances, and you’ll appreciate and enjoy the results for many years to come.

Stephanie Colman is a writer and dog trainer in Southern California.

While My Dogs Were Away

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Recently, I went on a vacation – a dog-free vacation. It was strange to not pet dogs for a week – and I kept having that startling sensation that I had forgotten to feed them – but it was interesting to receive reports from the people who were taking care of mine.

Whole Dog Journal editor Nancy Kerns

Nine-year-old Otto, shown here with me, stayed at my sister’s house. Otto is tired of other dogs, having been present for the comings and goings of countless foster dogs and puppies over the past few years, and even though my sister has four small dogs, I thought her house would be the best spot for him. She and her husband love dogs and pamper them. Their dogs sleep on the bed with them, there are dog toys literally everywhere, and my sister, a chef, is pretty liberal with the treats. I didn’t think he’d mind hanging out with her dogs, since one is quite old and has dementia (so he doesn’t really interact with the other dogs in a meaningful way), and two of the others are middle-aged females who socialize on their terms only. I thought they’d all just mind their own business.

The funny thing is, Otto formed a solid “bromance” with my sister’s fourth dog, a scruffy, 10-pound terrier-mix who looks a little like a blond Otto “Mini-Me.” Lucky is a playful, social dog, maybe two or three years old. My sister says that Lucky and Otto played “chase me” and wrestling games on and off all day! Otto hasn’t played with any dogs in my home for ages. He’s not the least bit interested in manner-less puppies, and despises rude, floppy adolescents – and these are the two types I tend to foster! Clearly, I haven’t given him enough opportunities to socialize with other adult dogs who have good canine manners, something I’ll try to remedy with Lucky play dates in the future.

I sent my big, floppy adolescent Lab/bully-breed-mix, Woody, to stay with my young adult son, who has an office job where he is allowed to bring his dog to work. Ordinarily, this is his own well-behaved, calm Black and Tan Coonhound, Cole, but for his week of dog-sitting, he brought Woody to work – with mixed results.

Woody continues to exhibit signs of anxiety with new people and dogs – when he’s at a distance from them. His hair goes up, and he emits low growls – until he has an opportunity to get close to someone (human or canine). The instant he gets close enough to greet someone, he immediately transforms into a wiggly, goofy, friendly dog. But it’s understandably hard to convince anyone that the growly, scary-looking dog is actually a big, friendly doofus. My son managed it with his co-workers, largely on the strength of their faith in him as a dog-handler (as evidenced by Cole’s impeccable behavior), but, as my son described it in his dry way, “It wasn’t ideal.” I’ve been working on this, but Woody and I are about to start work on it in a big way.

Get ready for super-social school, Woody! And for anyone out there figuring out how, when, and where to socialize their new pup, have we got the story for you! Check out Mardi Richmond’s “The Complete Puppy Socialization Guide,” for everything you need to know about exposing puppies to the world appropriately.

Download the Full May 2017 Issue PDF

Puppies do go through fear periods - developmental phases when the world is just a little more overwhelming. If your pup seems suddenly scared of more things than he was previously, take a step back from socialization and provide him with comfort, fun things to do, and gentle experiences. Fear periods often pass in one to two weeks.
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Why Are These Dogs Not Getting Adopted?

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In the May issue of WDJ, you will see a couple photos of a black and white dog. (One shows only his paws, so you have to take my word for it that the paws are his.) He is a ward at my local shelter, the Northwest SPCA in Oroville, California. He has been at the shelter since being dropped off there in a cardboard box, found by the employee who opened the shelter that day, shortly before Christmas. He and his two siblings were estimated to be about 8 weeks old at that time. They are now about six months old.

When the shelter was evacuated in February (see here for the story about that), this dog, his sister, and about 12 other dogs were taken in by my friend Sarah Richardson, owner of the boarding/training/daycare called The Canine Connection in nearby Chico, California. She boarded them free of charge for about 10 days, and recruited clients and friends to come over and take the dogs out for walks and potty breaks and play sessions. I was evacuated also, and spent a few days there helping with the dogs. Even though I had seen the dogs at the shelter before the evacuation, this was the first time I had actually put my hands on them.

I liked them! They were energetic and ill-mannered, never having received a lick of training, but they were sweet and friendly to everyone they met, not fearful in the slightest, and not mouthy. They approached other dogs with friendly enthusiasm, but despite not having many social opportunities, were not rude or inappropriate with other dogs.

I and some of Sarah’s other volunteers worked with them on polite walking on leash and not jumping on people, and they made some headway. Sarah promoted them heavily on her Facebook page, and despite the fact that she managed to find homes for at least 10 of the evacuees who stayed at her place of business, no one expressed interest in the two young dogs.

After the evacuation, I worked with them even more. And in recent weeks, I have stepped up my efforts, promoting them on MY Facebook page. And I have taken them home on Saturday nights, so they could spend two nights and a long day in a home, when the shelter is closed and no one can come to see them. I figure that riding in a car, and practicing house-training and cat-tolerance and so on will make them that much more adoptable. They both will come, sit, and lay down on cue. And they are cute!

And yet, no takers.

One of my friends who recently retired fell in love with the male, and said he would adopt him in a hot second, but he and his partner have a ton of travel planned for this year, and had no plans to adopt another dog until they conclude this extensive travel. They lost their last elderly dog a few months ago, and had postponed some of this travel on his behalf, so they don’t want to start with a new dog by leaving him in a boarding situation half of the year. But my friend offered to sponsor the dog’s adoption fee, if a qualified adopter was interested. I promoted this on my FB page, also, and still no takers.

My current theory is that they look too much like pit bulls to people who don’t want a bully breed, and not enough like pit bulls for people who do want a bully breed. It’s just so frustrating for me, seeing them as nice dogs who just need a chance to prove what nice dogs they are!

I’ve heard of dogs who have been in shelters for YEARS, and it always KILLS me. It makes me so sad to contemplate. I don’t want this for these young dogs, and I’m doing everything in my power to find them homes. But after four months, I’m discouraged – and feeling the discouragement that many people who foster feel when their wards take too long to find homes.

I’ve heard that shelters in some parts of the country actually bring dogs in from other parts of the country so they have enough dogs to offer for adoption. Boy, would I like to live in such a place. That’s a problem I’d love to have. Alas, that’s not how things are here in Northern California.

 

Oh, Woody

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I recently went on a vacation without dogs, for a whole week. My sister took care of my perfect, nine-year-old dog Otto, but my young adult son took care of my adolescent dog, Woody. It was a better fit because my son is an athlete and runs, and Woody would get enough exercise to keep him out of trouble.

About 36 hours after I returned and met with my son and brought Woody home, I awoke to the sound of a dog about to vomit  – you all know that sound. I jumped out of bed and ran to open the door and encourage the vomiter, who of course turned out to be Woody, to go outside. He lurched over to some tall grass and threw up. Then he went back into the house, climbed onto the couch, and went back to sleep. I went back to bed.

I was way too tired to investigate the vomitus until after it was light out, later that morning.  Here is what I found! 

This makes the SECOND small-sized tennis ball that Woody has swallowed. I told the story about the first one back in November, and I’ve been assiduous about making sure he has had no access to these small balls ever since. My son was well aware of Woody’s preference for tennis balls, and especially the small ones, and thought he had put the few that were rolling around his house in a safe place. But after I texted him about this ball, he wracked his brain and remembered that as he was driving to where we met a day and a half before, he had twice caught Woody on the floor of the back seat of his car, rooting around underneath the front seat for something – and then he put it together that one of those small balls must have been under the seat. D’oh!

Well, thank goodness that Woody threw up the ball on his own – and that he didn’t suffer a blockage, since I didn’t know that he swallowed anything and wouldn’t have been on the lookout for signs of a blockage. But the fact that I’m paying for health insurance for him just makes more and more sense, every time he vomits up something he never should have swallowed. We’re up to at least five inappropriate swallowing/vomiting incidents at this point. And that doesn’t even include this Kong Safestix that he chewed up in a few unsupervised minutes as I was loading the car before my vacation.  (I put all the pieces together next to an intact one, so I could make sure that most of it had not been swallowed.)

When will this adolescent teething phase be over?!

 

9 Things To Do if Your Puppy Has Kennel Cough

Kennel cough, or tracheobronchitis, is comparable to the common cold in humans. Nevertheless, it is frightening to many new dog guardians to discover that their puppy or newly rescued dog has contracted the disease. An unrelenting goose-like cough is the hallmark of kennel cough in dogs, but fortunately, most cases are treated successfully at home. To ensure your puppy recovers from kennel cough in a minimal amount of time and without complication, Whole Dog Journal has outlined the necessary steps you, the concerned guardian, need to take.

For an in-depth report on kennel cough, read “Kennel Cough Symptoms, Treatment, and Prevention,” by CJ Puotinen.

pug in a blanket
Matthew Henry

1. Keep your pup in a warm, dry, low-stress environment.

french bulldog puppy
© Hjalmeida | Dreamstime.com

2. Encourage your dog or puppy to drink. If the weather is cold, offer lukewarm water, or “spike” the water with a tiny bit of chicken broth – not enough to make him drink the whole bowl in one sitting; just enough to get him interested in drinking if he hadn’t been previously.

amoxicillin
© Sherryyates | Dreamstime.com

3. Most dogs recover without treatment; puppies (especially those who have come from a crowded, stressful shelter environment) may benefit from antibiotics, as they are more likely to develop a secondary bacterial infection and pneumonia.

dogs sleeping on couch
© BCritchley | Dreamstime.com

4. Keep infected and exposed pets at home (other dogs in home have usually already been exposed by the time symptoms appear, so isolating infected dog from your others provides no benefit).

dogs against smoking
© Skvortsova | Dreamstime.com

5. Keep coughing dog or puppy away from smoke (cigarettes, vape, fireplace, campfires, etc.).

dog with harness
Jackson Jost

6. Use a harness (rather than a collar) for a few weeks, to reduce coughing brought on by pressure on the irritated trachea.

playing puppies

7. We get that this is difficult with puppies, but try to minimize excitement; activity can irritate the airways.

cough syrup
© Taden | Dreamstime.com

8. Ask your vet for a recommendation of an over-the-counter or prescription cough suppressant for your dog if the coughing interferes with either your sleep or his.

puppy at the vet
© Aspenrock | Dreamstime.com

9. Monitor clinical signs and bring him to your veterinarian if condition worsens.

Don’t Let Them Get Obese!

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This blog post was originally published on June 28, 2012

More and more often, it seems, I see a super fat dog surrendered to the shelter. I always feel sorrier for these dogs than for the thin ones, because we can get a skeletal dog looking pretty healthy in a month’s time, but in the shelter environment, an obese dog may not be able to lose an ounce! Caged in a small run, being over-fed . . . the conditions are likely to make them even fatter! Plus, few people want the panting, exercise-intolerant, unattractive dogs; they end up lingering in our adoption kennels for a long time. And few of them have ever experienced anything like what must feel, in comparison to their former soft lives, like total deprivation – hard time – in the shelter environment.

One dog I’ve talked about before was this darling Labrador, who was surrendered to my local shelter weighing 110 pounds. By California law, she needed to be spayed before she could be adopted, but the surgery couldn’t be scheduled before she lost at least 20 or more pounds; surgery on such an obese dog takes a long time – the fat just floods into the incision and obscures the tissues that need to be cut and sutured – and is considered high risk.

The dog had been surrendered by her owner, who was going into long-term care and didn’t have any friends or relatives who could take her. Under all that fat was a super attractive, well-built Labrador, but it was hard to see. She had basically spent her whole life keeping this older man company on the couch, presumably eating fast food! She was understandably heartbroken, confused, and depressed at finding herself in a hard “cell.” I fostered her for a few weeks until we found a rescue group who would take her for the long-term rehabilitation she needed in order to get healthy and then spayed and rehomed.

I know that some dogs become obese as a result of a thyroid condition. I suspect that in this dog’s case, and in the case of many of the fat dogs we get at the shelter, it’s simple overfeeding and lack of exercise – the super-long, sharp toenails tell us that.

More recently, this dog came into the shelter as a result of a similar situation. The dog’s owners had lost their home and were staying with relatives, and the dog is “too big” (and too loud and untrained) to be welcome in the relatives’ home. Again, under that fat, there is a good-looking dog. He’s smart and learns fast; he could be much more fit and well on his way to being well-trained in a month . . . but it’s going to take someone willing to look past his heft and ill manners, and with a shelter full of younger, cuter dogs, he’s a hard sell. He’s been at my shelter for the past three months with no takers.

None of us like to think about events that might cause us to have to rehome our dogs. But there are countless human tragedies that can make it a necessity. A healthy, fit, well-trained dog will have absolutely no problem finding a home, but a fat dog who can barely be handled by strangers might not be so lucky.

The bottom line: Obesity of this degree reduces the length and quality of the dog’s life. If your dog is fat, please take steps to reduce his or her weight. Ask your veterinarian’s receptionist for a long appointment, and ask your vet for a thorough exam and discussion about what can be done. And see our past articles on low-fat diets and weight loss:

Helping Your Dog Lose Weight

Healthy Low-Fat Diets For Dogs With Special Dietary Needs

Homemade Low-Fat Dog Food Diets

My Dog’s Springtime Allergies: RIGHT on Time

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dog in springtime

This blog post was originally published March 4, 2014. Updated March 27, 2017.

Does your dog exhibit signs of seasonal allergies? And if so, what do you do about it? If springtime pollen affects your dog like it does Otto, perhaps you’ve developed some kind of allergy-relieving protocol for when trees and grasses start to bloom.

In past years, I’ve discussed my system of keeping a yearly calendar for my dogs that is loaded with notes about their health and behavior. It helped me identify the earliest signs of Otto’s springtime allergies, and take proactive management steps to minimize his suffering.

So here we are in March again, with everything in bloom in Northern California. Otto’s allergies are right on schedule, except this year – like every year since I noticed the seasonality of his symptoms – I am prepared with remedies before his itching begins.

I originally blogged about keeping a dog calendar in April 2013, when I had noticed that Otto was licking and chewing himself. Once I consciously registered this fact, I first looked for fleas; I couldn’t find a single one, on Otto or any other animal in the house. I started paying attention to the sound and sight of Otto licking his paws or flank (as opposed to distractedly saying to him, without even looking away from my computer screen, “Hey, knock it off!” and continuing to work) – and I realized that he was itchy pretty much all day. When he wasn’t licking or chewing himself, he lay down and looked chastened and miserable, rather than restful.

dog in springtime

Sadly, that year, it took me a couple of weeks for me to pay enough attention to my poor itchy dog to start treating his springtime allergies, and managing his environment to reduce his exposure to the agents he seems to be allergic to: namely, pollen.

Here are the things I do for Otto at this time of year:

• Discourage him from hanging out on the deck, or indeed, outside anywhere in my yard. There is SO MUCH pollen out there right now. At this time of year, when the sun comes out, he likes nothing more than to snooze on the warm deck, but unless I just hosed it off (which I do at least two or three times a week, if it hasn’t rained), I have to tell him I’m sorry, he has to wait until the trees have finished blooming.

tree pollen on porch

• Whether we’ve been out for a walk or he’s coming indoors again after going potty, I rinse his paws with a hose, then towel-dry them, before he comes In the house. And I use a damp towel and wipe down his entire coat. It takes less than a minute; I’m just trying to reduce the pollen that’s all over his coat. I do the same for Woody, who doesn’t seem to suffer from allergies yet, because he obviously brings in a lot of pollen, too.

• I vacuum the carpets daily, and damp-mop the kitchen floor daily.

• I wash all the dog beds weekly, and change the sheets that cover my couches most of the time every other day or so.

• And, last but not least, I give Otto Benadryl once or twice a day on the days that he’s obviously licking the most.

It used to be that I needed to set an alarm on my digital calendar for March 1 of each year to “consider Otto’s spring allergies.” But he’s 9 years old now, and the pattern is clear. As soon as I start to see a yellow glint of pollen on my front porch and decks, it’s time to put all my pollen-fighting activities into play, to keep him comfortable and as minimally itchy as possible. But all this work means that he hasn’t developed an inflamed, weepy hot spot for years.

Dog Training Wisdom from Pat Miller

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I was originally introduced to Pat Miller via email and then phone. At the time, I was working on a publication called the Whole Horse Journal, and she was one of the contributors to that publication. She was a good writer and contributed a few articles with terrific horse-friendly training tips.

Later, the publisher of that publication asked me to edit a start-up sister publication, to be called the Whole Dog Journal, modeled on the Whole Horse Journal. I knew far more about horses than dogs in those days, but I was game to learn, and I happily accepted the gig.

As I was rounding up writers and experts to contribute to the new publication, the editor of the Whole Horse Journal mentioned that Pat Miller would be a great resource for articles on training dogs, too. “Oh?” I remember asking. “I didn’t know that. Thanks!” I contacted Pat by phone and was pleased to learn that, in fact, she had an even more extensive background and training in dog behavior than horse training! She began contributing articles to WDJ – and has been ever since. She helped me develop WDJ’s dog-friendly ethos and mission statement, and routinely provides expert guidance and direction toward the most effective, humane dog training techniques and tools available.  We’ve worked together by phone and email for some 20 years now – throughout her residencies in California, Tennessee, and most recently in Maryland.

So it may be surprising to learn that we’ve met in person only a few times – once in California for a photo shoot, a few times at dog training conferences around the country (always with us too busy to actually spend more than a meal or two together), once for an all-too-brief visit at her farm/training center in Maryland, and once for less than an hour as she drove through northern California on her way from a speaking engagement to visit her brother, who lives in the top left-hand corner of California. When I heard, a few months ago, that she was going to be presenting at a conference in Sacramento – only an hour from me – and was again going to drive to see her brother, I offered to drive her from there to there, so we could hang out, do some planning for WDJ, and maybe take some photos for some upcoming articles.

The funny thing is, though we’ve worked together for more than 20 years, there were tons of things we didn’t know about each other that we learned in the 20 or so hours that we spent together in the car! Reaching the top-left corner of the state takes a good long while, and even longer when literally all the roads that go there are sliding down the mountainsides they traverse. We took one route there, and another back the next day, got out of the car and stretched during road-construction delays, and took more than a few snack and pee-breaks.

We were accompanied by my adolescent dog, Woody, whom I don’t like to leave at home when I can help it, as I always seem to come back to some new woody damage – a new spot on the deck or fence chewed, or the bamboo hedge with a new tunnel chewed through – and besides, he could be our photo model! Woody spent a significant amount of time with his chin on Pat’s shoulder as we drove, so I think she ended up liking him okay. (I wish I got a picture of that, but I was driving!)

At the end of our trip, I joined Pat after her presentation at the conference so we could take some training photos for articles. And it was during that brief photo shoot that I received my most recent pearl of Pat’s wisdom.

We were in a busy park in downtown Sacramento. I had brought both Woody and Muppet, a foster dog; at this moment, we had Woody on leash and Muppet was in my car, parked close by in the shade. We paused for a minute to allow a person with two large dogs on leash to walk by. Both of the dogs were growling and barking and pulling toward Woody, and he started growling and reacting to the dogs.

Now, I’ve worked with Woody a LOT on reducing his reactivity to the sight of strange dogs and people, and he’s come a long, long way. If he spots someone (dogs or people or both) that he regards as “strange,” he will usually emit a small growl; that’s my cue to pay attention and manage the situation BEFORE it’s a situation. In the beginning, I would just counter-condition like mad from a safe and sane distance (doing a quick U-turn and exuberant trot off into the opposite direction if need be), and then delivering treats to him in a rapid-fire fashion. The goal is to change how Woody FEELS about seeing strange dogs or people by making it RAIN treats whenever he sees said strange people or dogs; a secondary goal is to get him to look to me when he sees something alarming, so I can give him direction and reassurance that all is well.

In the early days of our counter-conditioning sessions, I wasn’t looking for any particular behavior from Woody; the point of counter-conditioning is not to (immediately) change the dog’s behavior, but to change his emotional response from a negative one to a positive one. Once he’s been conditioned to feel happy about the sight of “strange” people or dogs, as evidenced by a quick look at his handler with what Pat calls the “Where’s my treat?!” look, changing his behavioral response becomes easy and not so highly charged. In recent months, Woody has improved to the point where I can give the cue “Off!” and he will instantly and happily look away from whatever it is that has him spooked and look at me for the treats. 

So there we were: The person struggling with her growling, reactive dogs about 30 feet away; Woody starting to put his hair up and growling, too; Pat with Woody’s leash in her hands; and me with a treat pouch and treats in one hand, camera in another. I did what I have been doing lately with Woody: I said “Off!” and was waiting for him to look away from the dogs and toward me. But he was still growling and fixating on the dogs (who were being dragged away by their person).

Pat said, “More treats! Give him more!”

And I said, “But he usually . . .” (and I was about to finish, defensively, “will look away from the scary thing and look at me when I say ‘Off!’).

But Pat, with a world of experience that I don’t have, quickly interrupted, “But he’s NOT!”  – meaning, no matter what my expectations were of Woody, he was NOT in fact doing what I thought he should do or could do, so I should train the dog in front of me, not some ideal version of him, and deal with what was actually happening at that moment!

And I got it!

Two decades working together, and two days in a car talking together, fortunately, speeds up one’s comprehension. Pat’s pointing it out made me immediately see my mistake, and I instantly understood that the circumstances – days in a car, busy park in a new place, being handled by a new person, close proximity to some scary, nearly out-of-control dogs – added up to a situation that Woody just couldn’t “look away” from at that moment. I was asking too much, and setting him up to fail. More treats! Duh! When in doubt, go back a level (or more) to where your dog is able to succeed! I did, and the moment passed.

Such a small thing, and yet it rocked my world. It reminded me that any time you are expecting a dog to do something that he’s showing you he’s not capable of in that moment, you are setting him (and yourself) up for failure and frustration. And that’s what working – for even a short moment – with a master will do.

Thanks, Pat! 

Why These Dogs are Making Me Sad

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For the past three days, anyone who has called me has asked, “What’s wrong?” I keep thinking I’m doing a fine job of covering my irritation and emotional upset, and answering the phone the way I always do, but apparently – not.

For weeks, since the evacuation of my shelter, I’ve been fostering a young dog who was brought into the shelter a few days before the evacuation. The people who brought him to the shelter said they found him as a stray. It later developed that someone who saw him in the shelter recognized him as the dog who belonged to the people who surrendered him; they pretended he wasn’t their dog when they surrendered him. That happens often enough that no one at the shelter was surprised to learn this. The dog is adorable, but he’s got problems – physical and behavioral.

I think he’s been kept in a crate or small pen his whole life; he has the least amount of muscle tone of any dog I’ve ever met. When I took him out of his shelter kennel for the first time, I was horrified to see how he walked – like he was wearing clown shoes on all four feet. His muscles and tendons were so unused, that he walked way back on his wrists on all four legs; he had wear marks on the back of his hocks. He lacked coordination, but sort of flopped about very enthusiastically. He was sweet and affectionate, and happy to meet other dogs and people. I have been calling him Muppet, because he looks just like one, all goofy-haired and splay-legged. My husband dubbed him “Floppy” and said, “Floppy makes me sad!” He makes me sad, too.

Are his problems from being malnourished? He is super thin. Does he have adequate bone density? Are his hips constructed in a way that can be developed, or will he need surgery to ever walk properly? The shelter vet examined him briefly and instructed me to give him a few weeks of gentle exercise and a good diet, supplemented with some glucosamine and fish oil, and we’ll see how he responds to that before we spend too much of the shelter’s medical budget on x-rays.

Overall, his behavior is not terrible, just uneducated, but he is prone to displaying one incredibly annoying tactic: barking in frustration, excitement, or for attention. He barks when you put him in a crate, when you pick up a leash or car keys, when he sees a cat or dog out the window, or when you ask him to sit and you don’t get the treat to him fast enough (in his opinion). And his bark is one of those with the pitch that can make your earwax liquefy. Ouch!

I just can’t imagine having such a cute dog get to his age – we’re guessing he’s about 10 months or just over a year old – with zero training and apparently, next to no medical care (he is neutered). He has a lot of potential, because he’s sweet and funny and playful. I’ve been working with him daily to teach him to tolerate frustration without barking; to sleep nicely in a crate; to sit, down, come, and walk nicely on a leash (and off, where safe). He’s been doing great – and finally putting on a little muscle, too. Whereas his thighs were flat as pancakes when he came home with me, he has little waffle-thighs now, and some muscle on his shoulders. His front feet no longer look like clown shoes; he is completely walking upright on his front paws now.

His back legs are another story; he is extremely cow-hocked, and still prone to walking a bit on the back of his paws and wrists. I suspect that his hips really don’t work right. He doesn’t seem to be in any pain, but without some sort of major intervention, I don’t see how he can age without developing osteoarthritis or blowing out his knees. He’s getting radiographs and a more complete veterinary exam next week and I’ll know more soon.

I’ve been mildly optimistic about his prospects, as complicated as they are by his wonky legs, but was plunged into depression by my most recent canine visitor. This is a dog who was found as a stray by a friend. She tried without luck to find his owners, had him neutered, and then tried to find him a home. She said he barked a lot and fought with her dogs, and finally a friend of hers took him, but recently the friend returned him, saying he didn’t get along with her dogs, either, and also, he barked way too much. I agreed to have him come visit my house and share my opinion of his behavior.

I expected, from the description, a dog-aggressive dog. What I have observed is a highly anxious dog – perhaps in pain from terrible-looking knees – who really just wants other dogs to leave him alone and to be with a person. He snarled at Muppet, who, lacking polite canine social skills, approached him too strong and too quickly, but when Muppet left him alone, he calmly went about his business. He frisked about a bit when Woody tried his best to get him to play, but other than that, he’s been all too happy to leave the other dogs alone if they leave him alone. With people, he’s wary at first, but affectionate once he sees that a person will be nice to him.

Here’s what really got me upset: he was handed over to me along with his prescription for Prozac – suggested by a trainer who worked with him a year or more ago and prescribed by a local vet – and an “anti-bark” shock collar! He wasn’t currently wearing it, but “Here it is in case you want to use it, my friend has been using it for a few months…”

I. Just. Can’t.

Even when people are trying to be kind, we’re awful to dogs.

I’d really like to find both of these dogs better homes, but despite the fact that both of them have affection and companionship to offer, they have special needs that will make placing them complicated. Both need direction and management in order to be behaviorally pleasant family members. Both need medical interventions and management to live a pain-free life. Who will take them on?

So, if you happened to call me recently and I sounded cross – that’s what’s wrong. “Floppy” and this more recent orphan dog have made me sad. And mad. And there’s no easy way out of this.

A Good Time

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Whole Dog Journal editor Nancy Kerns

It’s amazing to me how many times I’ve assigned an article to one of WDJ’s regular contributors, or one of them has approached me about writing an article, and within days of receiving that article, I’m suddenly faced with the subject of the article in person – so to speak.

For example, I asked Cynthia Foley, who lives in upstate New York, if she could write something for us on Giardia and Coccidia, parasites that I’ve had to deal with several times while fostering puppies for my local shelter. I received the article, started tinkering with it – and within a week, I had heard from three different friends whose combined five dogs had diarrhea, who called me wanting to know what I knew about these protozoan pests. Thank goodness I had an article I could refer to!

It turned out that the three dogs who lived together all tested positive for Giardia, another friend’s dog tested negative, and the owner of the fifth dog reported that the dog’s diarrhea had stopped, and she was going to delay testing unless it returned. All that talk made me start fretting about my dog Woody’s occasional diarrhea, and given that he’s romped with every litter of parasite-infested puppies I’ve fostered in the past year, I submitted a stool sample to his veterinarian. Negative! Whew!

It happened again with Pat Miller’s article on front-clip harnesses. When my shelter had to evacuate about 80 dogs in February (go ahead and Google “Oroville Dam” – my shelter and I are both located just downstream) – I was miraculously able to put a wealth of harnesses into use on dogs who had never been taught not to pull. Great timing!

I’ve actually been immersed in this latter topic for a few months. Pat gave me a list of 15 or 16 products that had been recommended by fellow force-free trainers and clients, and I narrowed down the candidates that we would test to an even dozen. I wanted our readers to see how the harnesses all looked on the same dog, and resolved to use Woody as a model. My fuzzy guy, Otto (pictured with me above), is actually a far superior model; he’ll stand quietly for any amount of time and look noble on cue (the secret is the phrase, “Where’s the cat?”), whereas Woody, like the adolescent he is, starts to look bored and morose within minutes (as you can observe on the opposite page). But you just can’t see training gear on Otto; his fuzz is too profuse!

I carefully measured Woody again and again, since all the harness manufacturers use different dimensions to size their products. Even so, four of them had to be returned for a product in a different size, and then all of them had to get photographed and sent to Pat for her tests. At last it’s all done, the results are in – we hope you enjoy our recommendations! And the products are being sent home with dogs who are about Woody’s size who have been adopted from my shelter.

Prescription Drugs for Dog Arthritis Pain Relief

dachshund dog
When natural pain relief options are not helping your dog's arthritis pain, you may want to look into pharmaceutical drugs.

Even the most athletic, lively dogs slow down as they age, just like their human companions. Exercise helps keep joints limber, but when it hurts to move, dogs tend to avoid moving, and their resulting inactivity makes the problem worse.

For many veterinarians, prescription drugs are a first choice for the treatment of chronic pain, while for some they are a last resort. Used well, drugs can make a world of difference for our older companions, but they are controversial because of their documented side effects. Would prescription meds improve your best friend’s life?

Many WDJ articles about aging dogs have explored nutritional, herbal, aromatherapy, and exercise treatments for arthritis. According to holistic veterinarians, these and other drug-free approaches are worth trying. Unfortunately, they don’t work for every dog, and they may not work quickly.

In his book, Dr. Petty’s Pain Relief for Dogs: The Complete Medical and Integrative Guide to Treating Pain, (Countryman Press, 2016), Michael C. Petty, DVM, calls attention to pain symptoms that readers may not notice or consider important.

This is a mistake, he warns, because pain interferes with every aspect of a dog’s life. He begins the book by noting that most veterinarians who practice pain management have a story about their relationship with pain. His began in 1984, when his 64-year-old mother died in agony from breast cancer while her physician refused to prescribe morphine to ease her final hours. “I vowed that as a caretaker and steward entrusted with an animal’s health,” he writes, “I would never be indifferent to pain.”

As Denise Flaim explained in 2015, pain in animals used to be ignored, but attitudes are changing. Increasingly, veterinarians and pet owners are sensitive to their animals’ pain and motivated to relieve it. In fact, pain management for pets has become a medical specialty. (Click here to find veterinarians who belong to the International Veterinary Academy of Pain Management.)

How to Recognize Pain in Dogs

A major problem in the diagnosis and treatment of canine pain is that many dog owners don’t notice its symptoms, or they notice the dog is slowing down but don’t understand why. Another is that not everyone takes canine pain seriously, so it’s easy to overlook.

You can help your dog live a pain-free life by noticing changes in posture, gait, and activity level. Tell your veterinarian if your dog exhibits any of the following symptoms of pain:

  • Shows reluctance to walk on or difficulty getting up and down on slippery surfaces.
  • Struggles to walk up or down stairs.
  • No longer jumps onto or off furniture or car seats.
  • Gets up from a down position with the front legs first.
  • Seems to have trouble lying down or finding a comfortable position.
  • Declines to participate in favorite activities, especially running and jumping.
  • Develops abnormal wear on nails, or tends to walk with a foot turned under or dragging.
  • Seems reluctant to play or no longer initiates play
  • Starts taking exception to being groomed or petted.
  • Experiences sleep interruptions.
  • Develops a decreased appetite.
  • Begins experiencing “accidents” or incontinence in the house.

For more information on signs of pain in dogs, read our article Dog in Pain: 12 Signs and What You Can Do to Help.

A comprehensive pain exam, Dr. Petty explains, involves a visual inspection of your dog’s posture and gait, followed by a thorough hands-on exam and appropriate lab work in order to determine the pain’s underlying cause. “When it comes to signs of chronic or even short-term persistent pain,” he says, “simply treating the signs of pain with medications is not enough. In circumstances like this a proper diagnosis is required.”

Chronic pain can be caused by osteoarthritis, neurological disorders, injuries, and illnesses. Often, a condition has been progressing for months or even years before a caregiver notices a symptom for the first time, such as limping or a reluctance to chase a ball.

Even when a dog is favoring one leg or obviously limping, her pain may be caused by something far from the leg, such as a disc in the neck. As Dr. Petty explains, a ruptured cruciate ligament in the knee, spinal arthritis, bone cancer, a severe muscle injury, or disc disease are impossible to distinguish from one another by observation only. A pain-oriented veterinarian asks detailed questions, examines the dog with careful palpation, takes x-rays as needed, and does a neurological exam to determine the pain’s cause and best treatment.

The most common canine illness is osteoarthritis, which affects four out of five dogs. But arthritis has many possible causes, making it a complex problem involving not only joints but also their surrounding structures. Osteoarthritis develops slowly, so it’s often not noticed until it has progressed to an advanced stage. There is no magic cure for osteoarthritis, and its management usually depends on a combination of treatments that continue through the dog’s life.

For more on diagnosing arthritis in dogs, read our article Identifying Arthritis in Dogs

FDA-Approved Pain Medications for Dogs

Hundreds of drugs developed for human pain are used by veterinarians to treat chronic pain in dogs, but only nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (abbreviated as NSAIDs and pronounced “EN-seds”) and two non-NSAID prescription drugs (Galliprant and Adequan) have been approved by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) for canine use.

The most familiar NSAID is aspirin, which is effective in the treatment of pain associated with canine arthritis. However, although there are numerous “dog aspirin” products on the market, aspirin is not FDA-approved for use in dogs. According to Dr. Petty, “the administration of even a few doses of aspirin has been shown to cause inflammation of the gastric mucosa or lining of the stomach.” He considers all types of aspirin (plain, buffered, or coated) too dangerous for canine use.

If your veterinarian prescribes aspirin for your dog, be sure to discuss its dosage, potential side effects, and cautions before using it.

The FDA approved the first NSAID for use in dogs (carprofen, brand name Rimadyl, manufactured by Pfizer) 20 years ago. Since then, several other NSAIDs have been developed for dogs.

FDA-approved NSAIDs for dogs include etodolac (Etogesic), meloxicam (Metacam), deracoxib (Deramaxx), firocoxib (Previcox), tepoxalin (Zubrin), and carprofen (Novox, Vetprofen, and Rimadyl). These drugs have similar actions, contraindications, benefits, and side effects. Their primary influence is on the cyclooxygenase or COX pathway, in which chemical reactions create prostanoids, a family of lipid mediators that cause pain and inflammation in nerve endings and in the spinal cord.

COX-inhibiting NSAIDs help block this reaction, thus reducing pain. But some chemicals created through the COX pathway are important to proper kidney function and protection of the gastrointestinal tract. Reducing the body’s prostanoids reduces pain but contributes to the most common adverse reactions associated with NSAIDs. These include gastrointestinal ulceration, kidney failure in dogs with kidney disease, liver failure in dogs with liver disease, and liver failure in some dogs with no previous liver problems.

Symptoms include vomiting, diarrhea, loss of appetite, and depression, all of which should be watched for and if noticed, reported to your veterinarian, and the medication should be stopped at once.

Today, carprofen is very commonly prescribed for canine pain, but its ubiquity doesn’t mean it’s not without the potential for drastic and even fatal side effects due to liver or kidney problems, sometimes causing death within days. Any breed of dog can react to carprofen, but reportedly, Labrador Retrievers are more commonly affected than other breeds.

Problems with carprofen and other NSAIDs most often occur shortly after starting the drug. It has been observed that carprofen has caused a disproportionate number of NSAID-related dog deaths, although this could be because it is prescribed more than other NSAIDs.

NSAIDs should never be combined with corticosteroids (such as prednisone), aspirin, or other NSAIDs, or herbs that may contribute to bleeding or ulceration, such as white willow bark (Salix alba, the original aspirin).

Despite their potential side effects, NSAIDs are an effective first treatment for many dogs with osteoarthritis. By reducing the dog’s pain, they help increase activity and exercise, which slows the progression of arthritis.

While NSAIDs should not be combined with each other, they are often combined with other drugs for improved results. In many cases, adding a compatible drug may permit the reduction of the dosage or frequency of the NSAID without a loss of effectiveness.

To ensure an NSAID does not adversely affect the liver or kidneys, it’s recommended to have blood tests done prior to medication and again two to four weeks after starting the NSAID. Blood tests should be repeated every three months to a year while your dog is being given an NSAID.

It can be dangerous to switch from one NSAID (including aspirin) to another, or from an NSAID to prednisone or vice versa. It’s best to wait at least a week in between, and preferably longer, before starting the new drug. This is particularly important when you are switching from one of the older-generation NSAIDs, including aspirin and white willow bark. If you switch from NSAIDs to prednisone, a three-day waiting period is considered sufficient.

Galliprant

Aratana Therapeutics’ Galliprant was approved by the FDA in March 2016 for treating canine osteoarthritis. Galliprant is a piprant antagonist drug that inhibits the production of prostaglandins (lipid compounds with diverse hormone-like effects). NSAIDs target the entire cyclooxygenase or COX pathway, including the pathway’s protective functions, which explains most of their adverse side effects. By contrast, Galliprant specifically blocks the EP4 receptor, which is the primary mediator of canine osteoarthritis pain and inflammation, without involving the COX pathway.

Because of its documented safety, Galliprant does not require expensive monitoring the way NSAIDs do, and it is said to relieve pain in dogs who are not able to tolerate NSAIDs. It is considered safe for dogs age nine months and older. Appropriate monitoring is recommended for long-term use.

Galliprant should not be used in combination with COX-inhibiting NSAIDs or corticosteroids. Its most common side effects, all of which are reported to be mild and infrequent, include vomiting, diarrhea, decreased appetite, and lethargy.

Adequan

An injectable joint protectant, Adequan Canine (polysulfated glycos-aminoglycan, or PSGAG) from Luitpold Pharmaceuticals, Inc., is the only FDA-approved injectable, disease-modifying drug for canine osteoarthritis. Injected intramuscularly, Adequan stimulates cartilage repair, soothes and lubricates joints, reduces joint damage, and relieves pain.

Adequan travels to joints within two hours of injection and remains in joints for three days. It is administered twice weekly for up to four weeks with a maximum of eight injections. Signs of improvement usually appear within one month.

The drug’s most common side effects are stinging at the injection site and (less common) an upset stomach, vomiting, diarrhea, depression, or abnormal bleeding. Adequan should not be used in dogs showing hypersensitivity to PSGAG or dogs with kidney disease, liver disease, or known or suspected bleeding disorders.

Although such treatment is considered “off-label” because it differs from the manufacturer’s protocol, some veterinarians continue to give Adequan injections at monthly intervals, or they repeat the prescribed protocol whenever the dog’s symptoms return.

It may not be necessary to inject this drug into muscles. Some veterinarians inject it subcutaneously, which is less painful for the dog and easier for owners to do themselves at home. A similar product, Cartrophen Vet, which is sold in Canada and other countries, is given subcutaneously.

Tramadol and Other Opioid Drugs

Tramadol (Ultram) is a synthetic opioid that appears to be safer than most narcotics and can be used for long-term chronic pain treatment. While not FDA approved for dogs, it’s widely prescribed by veterinarians.

Tramadol’s main action in dogs is as a serotonin and norepinephine reuptake inhibitor. Serotonin and norepinephrine are neurotransmitters, substances that carry impulses from one nerve to another. Tramadol’s effect on neurotransmitters interrupts the transmission of pain signals. It acts on pain symptoms only and does not reduce inflammation. Tramadol is considered safe to combine with NSAIDs or with prednisone.

Tramadol should not be given with Monoamine oxidase inhibitors (MAOIs). Examples include Anipryl/l-deprenyl/selegiline, and the Preventic tick collar, which contains Amitraz, another MAOI. It may also be dangerous to combine tramadol with St. John’s wort (Hypericum perforatum). In addition, tramadol should be used with caution in combination with selective serotonin reuptake inhibitors (SSRIs) such as Prozac, Zoloft, and Paxil, as well as tricyclic antidepressants such as Elavil and Clomicalm.

Because tramadol is metabolized through the liver and kidneys, its dosage must be reduced for dogs with liver or kidney disease. High doses may trigger seizures; it should be used with extreme caution in seizure-prone dogs.

Ultracet, which is tramadol combined with acetaminophen (Tylenol) for humans, can be dangerous for dogs.

Studies of tramadol’s long-term effectiveness have shown possible problems with absorption from the stomach or a decrease in the liver’s ability to utilize the drug. Recent research shows that tramadol may not work as well for dogs as it does for people. Higher doses, given more often, may be needed for adequate pain control, and it may work better for some types of pain than for others. Tramadol works best when combined with NSAIDs rather than used in place of them.

Opioid drugs (narcotics) are not FDA approved for canine use, but many veterinarians prescribe them for pain relief. Examples include oral hydrocodone (which can be combined with NSAIDs for additional pain relief), Vicodin (a combination of hydrocodone and acetaminophen, which cannot be combined with NSAIDs), codeine, oxycodone, and transdermal fentanyl (Duragesic) patches. Their narcotic effects make these drugs best for short-term use.

Corticosteroids

The strongest anti-inflammatory drugs are corticosteroids such as prednisone, methylprednisolone (Medrol), and dexamethasone, but their significant side effects make them most appropriate for short-term use. Corticosteroids are not FDA-approved for canine use but are widely prescribed by veterinarians.

Steroids can suppress the immune system, increase appetite (causing weight gain), increase thirst and urination, lead to muscle loss and weakness, and cause gastric ulcers.

NSAIDs are not compatible with steroids and should be discontinued at least 72 hours before beginning steroid treatment. Steroids can be combined with other pain medications mentioned here except for Galliprant.

Prednisone and other corticosteroids are usually given in large initial doses, then gradually reduced to the lowest dose that controls symptoms. Giving them every other day and giving them with food helps reduce side effects. Steroids should never be stopped abruptly but rather tapered off.

Long-time WDJ contributor Mary Straus had a Shar-Pei, Piglet, who lived to be 17 and was mobile to the end, thanks to Mary’s attentive care and frequent trips to the veterinarian to adjust Piglet’s medication regimen. Straus turned to prednisone in what turned out to be Piglet’s last six months, explaining, “This allowed her to continue to be mobile after NSAIDs were no longer effective.”

Medical Marijuana

Even though marijuana (Cannabis sativa) has gained public acceptance and is legal for medical and recreational use in several states, a confusing array of federal, state, and local regulations, and a lack of scientific studies, make its use controversial.

When it comes to treating canine pain, marijuana and other cannabis products have a following among pet owners and veterinarians. In 2013, Mary Straus described the benefits of marijuana for canine pain control and the pioneering work of Doug Kramer, DVM, whose Enlightened Veterinary Therapeutics clinic in California offered medical marijuana protocols for pets in his palliative and hospice care practice. Sadly, Dr. Kramer died in August 2013 before he completed a clinical trial, and his clinic closed.

Given the dearth of studies, there is no reliable information about what dosage of marijuana is safe and effective for pets. Concentrated forms (such as oils, tinctures, and other extracts) in particular can cause toxicity even in small amounts. This problem is further complicated by the variation in strengths for each of these based on the strain of marijuana grown, the timing of the harvest, and the preparation of the medical product.

Marijuana contains more than 60 chemicals called cannabinoids, the most important of which are cannabidiol (CBD), which has therapeutic properties, and tetrahydrocannabinol (THC), which is psychoactive but may provide additional benefits when small amounts are combined with CBD.

Because of its very low THC content, hemp (a Cannabis sativa plant traditionally used for making rope, paper, and fabric) is not considered intoxicating. Instead, its cannabinoids are known for their anti-inflammatory, analgesic, and anti-spasmodic properties. Hemp capsules, oils, and other products containing cannabinoids derived from hemp are sold throughout the U.S. for human and canine use without restriction.

Doxycycline

The familiar tetracycline antibiotic doxycycline, which is widely used to treat bacterial infections, especially those carried by ticks, has been shown to have anti-inflammatory properties and actually reduce the production of enzymes that lead to the progression of arthritis.

The discovery that human patients with arthritis improved while taking tetracycline drugs led to clinical trials, including some with dogs. Other trials have shown improvement in knee cartilage, other joints, and cartilage ulceration in both humans and dogs taking low doses of doxycycline.

The mechanism that causes improvement is not well understood. Researchers theorize that human rheumatoid arthritis is triggered by the immune system battling infection, and when antibiotics clear the infection, symptoms improve. Although some studies have shown little or no improvement in humans with osteoarthritis, some canine studies show a good response to that disease.

Gabapentin

Gabapentin (Neurontin) is an anticonvulsant and pain relief medicine intended for the relief of neuropathy (nerve pain). It is similar in structure to GABA, a chemical messenger found in the brain, and it relieves or reduces pain by inhibiting the release of glutamate, which is a type of neurotransmitter. Gabapentin has been shown to be effective in combination with NSAID medications.

Because gabapentin can cause deficiencies of vitamins D, B1, and folate as well as calcium, it is important to provide a high-quality canine vitamin-mineral supplement in combination with the drug.

Gabapentin for dogs is administered in tablets or capsules. Do not administer liquid formulations intended for humans, as they may contain Xylitol, which is toxic to dogs.

Note: Most dogs build a tolerance to Gabapentin over time so that the starting dose becomes ineffective. Higher doses are then prescribed.

Amantidine

Originally developed as an antiviral drug to prevent Asian influenza, amantidine (Symmetrel) found success as a treatment for the symptoms of Parkinson’s disease. More recently, veterinarians began prescribing amantadine for chronic pain in dogs with arthritis, cancer, and disc disease. It has been shown to improve the effectiveness of NSAID medications when combined with them. Amantidine is administered daily for one to two weeks, at which point it can be discontinued or resumed. Dogs with kidney problems receive lower doses. Reported side effects include agitation, diarrhea, flatulence, and dizziness. If any of these symptoms occur, the medication should be discontinued and your veterinarian notified.

Amantidine can interact with heart medications, antibiotics, and diuretics, any of which can reduce the drug’s effectiveness, while antihistamines can increase its effects and induce a state of agitation.

Other Drugs

Used alone or combined with narcotics, NSAIDs, or steroids, some antidepressants relieve pain and discomfort in dogs with arthritis. These medications are not FDA approved for canine use but are prescribed by many veterinarians. Drugs in this category include amitriptyline (Elavil Rx) and other tricyclic antidepressants such as clomipramine (Clomicalm).

These medications should be administered under veterinary supervision as they require careful study, especially if they are used in combination with other drugs.

What You Can Do for Your Dog With Arthritis

1. Schedule a veterinary exam as soon as you notice signs of pain or lameness in your dog.

2. Before giving any medication to your dog, ask your veterinarian about any possible drug interactions or contraindications.

3. Note your dog’s responses (good or bad) to any prescribed medications on a calendar or journal. Memory is fallible, and your vet needs solid information in order to tailor doses and changes in dosing frequency for maximum benefit to your dog.

Montana resident CJ Puotinen is the author of The Encyclopedia of Natural Pet Care and other books.

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