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Dog Muzzles: When To Use Them and How

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Trainer Sarah Richardson of Chico, CA, delivers spray cheese (such as Cheez Whiz or Kong's Easy Treat) through the end of the muzzle. Moxie happily shoves her nose into the muzzle to enjoy the cheese. When teaching a dog to wear a muzzle, don't be in a rush to fasten it onto the dog. The process should resemble teaching her a trick, not asking her to submit to something unpleasant. In this case, the "trick" will be pushing her nose all the way into the muzzle, and eventually, holding it there. Only after she's super comfortable with that will you fasten the strap.

Muzzles, and the dogs who wear them, often get a bad rap, as many people associate them with dogs who may display aggressive behavior. In reality, there are plenty of reasons why even the most mild-mannered, sociable dogs might need to be muzzled, along with numerous situations where using a muzzle is an act of responsible dog ownership.

Muzzles can be used to help keep people and other animals safe in a variety of circumstances:

✔ In an emergency. When a dog is in pain, fearful, and/or pushed past her limits, she may pose a bite risk, so the use of a muzzle keeps everyone safe. 

✔ As “insurance” when working through a training plan. A muzzle can be a valuable tool to help ensure the safety of other people and animals when working on a behavior modification program. A muzzle should never replace training to address the root of the issue that leads to the potential bite risk, but it’s a great safety net in case things don’t go as planned during a training session.

✔ As a supervised management tool. In some cases, a muzzle can be safely used to prevent the ingestion of dangerous items, while allowing the dog to explore on a walk; to prevent the dog from harming wildlife; or even as added security in situations where you aren’t sure how the dog will react. 

✔ When required by law. In some areas, dogs – or certain breeds of dogs – are required to wear a muzzle when in public.

TYPES OF MUZZLES

There are two basic types of muzzles:

* “Basket” muzzles encase the dog’s snout in a basket with straps fastened around the neck and head. They are typically made from plastic, rubber, or silicone. While a basket muzzle limits the degree to which a dog can open its mouth, a properly fitted basket muzzle allows the dog to relax its mouth enough to pant. The open weave of the basket makes it possible for the dog to eat and drink, making a good choice for muzzle-training programs. 

Muzzles like this are for brief use only, as they restrict panting. © Makidotvn | Dreamstime.com

* Then there are muzzles that encase the snout like an open-ended sheath and buckle around the neck. Sometimes called “soft muzzles,” “sleeve muzzles,” or “grooming muzzles,” they are usually made from nylon, mesh, or leather. They are more restrictive than basket muzzles, and prevent a dog from opening its mouth enough to pant, so they should be used only for a few minutes at a time, and not outdoors (where the risk of overheating is greater). These muzzles are often used in vet hospitals or by groomers for brief periods to protect handlers from a dog who is frightened or in pain.

SLOW IS FAST

Teaching your dog to be comfortable in a muzzle is important. We don’t want our dog to simply submit to the muzzle, letting us put it in place without an objection. We want our dog to feel really good about the muzzle. 

It’s important to build a slow, thoughtful development of a positive association with the muzzle – as opposed to simple tolerance – because behavior degrades under stress. If under the best circumstances – relaxed at home, free from pain, away from potentially scary things – your dog only tolerates wearing a muzzle, the introduction of such stressors can lower the dog’s tolerance to “I hate everything that’s happening!” 

In contrast, however, if you’ve taught your dog to feel really good about the muzzle, even if the behavior of wearing a muzzle degrades, it may only decrease from “I like my muzzle!” to “I can tolerate my muzzle.” 

Muzzle training is not just about physical safety; it’s also an investment in your dog’s emotional health and well being. 

Muzzle Must-Haves
Mask-style mesh muzzle for a brachycephalic dog; this one is sold by VetMed Solutions. See vedmedwear.com or call (888)976-8696

A quality basket muzzle should be lightweight, adjustable, and have options for added security to prevent the dog from removing the muzzle. We like the Baskerville Ultra muzzle. It has an additional strap that connects the top of the muzzle to the neck strap, along with a loop to further secure the muzzle to the dog’s collar. It can also be heat-shaped with a hair dryer or hot water to create a customized fit. 

When properly fit, there should be a small gap between the dog’s nose and the end of the muzzle, and the open-end of the basket should sit below the dog’s eyes. The diameter of the basket should allow the dog to partially open his mouth to pant. You should be able to fit one finger between the edge of the muzzle and the snout, as well as between the straps and the dog’s neck. 

Brachycephalic breeds like Pugs, Bulldogs, and French Bulldogs can be more challenging to fit with a muzzle due to their short snouts. Many do better in a mask-style mesh muzzle (designed specifically for such breeds) that covers more of the dog’s face, but has eyeholes to keep from obstructing the dog’s vision.

MAKING MUZZLES MAGICAL

These three steps will help your dog develop positive feelings about seeing and wearing a muzzle. We recommend working with a basket muzzle, as it’s less restrictive and easier to use with treats. 

1. Muzzle means delicious treats. Hold the muzzle in one hand and feed your dog tiny, delicious treats from the other hand. After a few treats, put the muzzle behind your back and stop feeding. Continue this process, moving the muzzle closer to your dog’s face, until you can present the muzzle right next to your dog’s face and he’s happy to eat offered treats. 

Repeat this process three to five times per day for several days. Practice in different rooms. After a few days, your dog starts to think, “I’m not sure what this is, but when it comes out, I get treats. Cool!”  

2. A basket of treats. After a few days of being fed by hand when the muzzle comes out, we’re ready for the dog to move toward the muzzle. 

If you have already taught your dog a nose-target behavior (often called “touch”), ask for a touch as you present the muzzle. Reward your dog for targeting any part of the muzzle – but to encourage him to actively insert his snout into the muzzle, deliver the treats within the basket. 

If your dog is leery of putting his snout into something restrictive, work on that ahead of time with an easier object, such as a food bowl or water bucket. If your dog shies away as you move to adjust his collar, work on this separately, to prepare your dog for having your hands over his head as you buckle the muzzle and adjust the straps.

The goal is to work this step until the dog is happily shoving his face into the muzzle basket for treats. You can test the strength of the behavior by slowly moving the muzzle away from your dog as he moves toward it, making him try harder to land his snout in the “sweet spot.” The dog should move toward the muzzle; don’t move the muzzle toward the dog.

3. Buckle up, buttercup! Once your dog is happily shoving his snout into the basket, it’s time to work on keeping the snout in the basket as you buckle and adjust the straps. A dollop of squeeze cheese (or peanut butter or something similar) applied to the inside of the basket frees up your hands to handle straps. Time your strap-handling so that you’re able to buckle or adjust – and then remove the muzzle – before your dog finishes licking the reward. We want the dog to think, “Hey! I wasn’t done yet. Put that back on!”

Work up to the point that your dog accepts the muzzle for longer periods of time and, eventually, in the absence of frequently flowing treats – especially if your dog will need to wear a muzzle while on walks or when with other dogs. If your training is primarily for emergencies, don’t forget to periodically revisit the “magic muzzle” training to remind your dog the muzzle is a good thing. 

Small Dog Car Safety

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The PupSaver works much like a rear-facing car-safety seat for infants, but instead of the back of the seat being a (padded) hard shell, it's full of polyurethane foam that's been sewn into thick bundles. In case of a collision, the dog would be caught like a baseball in a great big catcher's mitt, cushioned between the padded back of the PupSaver and the back of the vehicle's seat. Our test dog Samson weighs 5 lbs and wears the XXS Petite harness.

As we described in our review of car-safety harnesses in the May 2021 issue, even the best products on the market for medium and larger dogs are limited in the amount of comfort and safety they provide – and none of them can accommodate dogs smaller than 11 lbs. Happily, there is a very safe and comfortable car-safety product available for small dogs (those 45 lbs and less): the PupSaver. 

The dog is held in place in the middle of the padded seat by a strap that clips to a ring on the front/bottom of the harness – lower than a front-clip walking harness, but not quite between the dog’s front legs. The combination of the harness and the strap provide only part of the protection, however; the shape and padding of the PupSaver, assisted by the shoulder belt, help catch and contain the dog if he’s been thrown by the force of a collision.

For the best way to understand how the seat works, see the crash-test videos on the PupSaver website (pupsaver.com). The website also has links to several videos that show you how to install the seat. We didn’t find the installation to be difficult, but a friend found it more daunting and reported that the video made all the difference. 

Like infant safety seats, the PupSaver provides the highest degree of safety when installed in the back seat of a car. Though the car’s seat belts are used whether it is installed in the front or back seat, the PupSaver’s metal j-hooks can be used to additionally secure it with the car’s LATCH (lower anchors and tethers for children) system in the back seat. 

ISSUES OR NON-ISSUES

The owner of our tiny test dog, Samson, anticipated that he would feel constrained by his inability to see over the curved, padded back of the PupSaver, particularly when it was installed in the car’s back seat. In reality, Samson relaxed into the cushioned seat without a fuss. That turned out to be a non-issue, particularly because he could still stand up and see out the side window. 

As a mother and grandmother with extensive infant- and toddler-car-seat experience, I was concerned about installing the PupSaver in the front seat; rear-facing infant car seats are never supposed to be installed where an airbag could smash into and displace them, injuring the baby in the seat. But because the PupSaver is soft, not rigid, if an airbag went off, at most it would push the cushioned PupSaver and dog into the car’s seat back. In fact, a number of testimonials on the PupSaver website describe accidents where all the car’ airbags deployed and the dogs were unharmed.

PRICING AND SIZES

The PupSaver seat comes in three sizes: PupSaver Petite (for dogs who weigh 10 lbs or less); PupSaver (for dogs 10 to 30 lbs); and PupSaver 45 (for dogs 35 to 45 pounds). The price varies by size and type of fabric used for the cover, but ranges from $150 to $180.

The PupSaver compatible harnesses are sold separately for $30. They are available in four sizes, ranging from XXS Petite (for dogs who are 5 to 6 lbs) to Medium (for dogs who weigh 30 to 45 lbs). 

Does this seem expensive to you? It did to us, too – until we tested the product for the past six months and saw how easy it was to install and use, how much our test dog liked it, and how well it worked. When you add in that fact that small dogs usually live longer than larger dogs (and so you could amortize its cost over a longer time), it seems like a great investment to us. 

Related Articles

Dog Car Harnesses Review How To Use A Dog Car Harness

What Are Probiotics For Dogs?

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Probiotics For Dogs
Widely recognized as useful for treatment of gastrointestinal issues, ongoing research shows probiotics for dogs have the potential to improve overall health and well being. Photo: Kosamtu/Getty Images

If your dog has ever suffered from diarrhea, probiotics have probably been suggested to you by a friend, coworker or your veterinarian. Widely recognized as useful for treatment of gastrointestinal issues, ongoing research shows probiotics have the potential to improve overall health and well being.

What are probiotics?

By definition, probiotics are live microorganisms that result in health benefits to the host, when ingested in sufficient amounts.

How do probiotics for dogs work?

The live bacteria in the probiotic adhere to the GI-tract lining, limiting the ability of pathogenic (“bad”) bacteria to adhere and cause disease. The probiotic’s bacteria compete with the pathogenic bacteria for nutrients, again limiting the bad bacteria’s ability to thrive and multiply. Probiotics are thought to improve the integrity of the intestinal barrier, which is what keeps potentially harmful ingested substances from being absorbed.

The GI tract is home to 70% of cells involved in the immune system. These cells are called gut-associated lymphoid tissue (GALT). Probiotics secrete substances that enhance GALT’s ability to modulate immunity. Probiotics ferment nutrients found in fiber and non-absorbable carbohydrates into substances called short-chain fatty acids, which have powerful anti-inflammatory benefits and are a rich source of nutrition for the intestinal epithelium (lining).

Potential uses for probiotics:

  • Diarrhea – Probiotics are usually added to other specific prescribed treatments depending on cause.
  • Antibiotics – While on antibiotics for infection, probiotics may prevent antibiotic-associated diarrhea.
  • Allergic dermatitis (atopy) – The immune-modulating and anti-inflammatory effects from probiotics can help control atopy.
  • Dental disease – Probiotics potentially minimize pathogenic gingival bacteria that produce plaque.
  • Chronic kidney disease – Azodyl, a probiotic/prebiotic combo, made by Vetoquinol, purportedly lessens the buildup of uremic toxins that makes dogs with chronic kidney disease feel sick.
  • Recurrent urinary tract infections –The numbers of pathogenic bacteria in the vagina and perivulvar area that predispose female dogs to recurrent UTIs may be reduced by the use of probiotics.
  • Anxiety — Purina Pro Plan Veterinary Supplement Calming Care contains one strain of probiotic bacteria, called BL999, that has been shown to have an anxiolytic effect on anxious dogs.
  • Arthritis – Probiotics have known anti-inflammatory benefits.

Which probiotic to choose?

Because probiotics are considered “nutraceuticals,” not pharmaceuticals, products on shelves are not subject to heavy regulation by the Food and Drug Administration. This means, unfortunately, a marketed product may or may not contain what it says it contains. Choosing a probiotic from a reputable company helps eliminate this concern. Talk with your veterinarian or choose a product that is a member of the National Animal Supplement Council (NASC.org), which verifies its member companies’ products.

Whatever you choose, the package should state “guaranteed analysis” above the ingredient list. The ingredient list should include multiple strains of bacteria with names like Bifidobacterium, Lactobacillus, and Enterococcus.  The numbers of organisms should be stated. They are counted in colony forming units or CFUs. While the ideal dose for probiotics is not yet known, veterinary recommendations are that each capsule/daily dose should contain at least 5 billion CFUs. Because they are providing living organisms, there should be an expiration date on the package. If there is no expiration date, the viability of the organisms in the product is suspect.

Probiotics are supplements with the potential to improve your dog’s health and well-being in numerous ways. They do not replace the need to see your veterinarian for appropriate diagnosis and treatment of illness.  A big key to success with probiotics is choosing a good-quality product, with adequate numbers and multiple strains of bacteria, from a reputable company. As always, the best recommendations for you and your dog come from your veterinarian.

How To Use A Dog Car Harness

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Allow the dog to sniff the harness and reward him generously when he smells or touches it on his own.

So, that brand new dog car harness came just in time, eh? The night before you head out on a big road trip?

Uh-oh.

I bet you were anticipating feeling less stress in the car because you’re so focused on the fact that your dog will now be safer. Alas, you may find that this is the most disastrous trip ever because your howling wild child is thrashing around in distress!

Oops. It turns out that the ideal time to get any new car restraint equipment is a month before the trip, not the night before.

When you think about it, it’s obvious that there is no reason to assume your dog will be hunky dory with suddenly being strapped into a new device that constricts her movement and feels a bit uncomfortable. Sure, maybe your little genius will understand when you say, “Sweetie, this is to make you safe! It’s because I love you!” and immediately relax in the glow of that idea. More likely, though . . . she’ll be confused about what’s happening, she’ll hate it, and she’ll make her displeasure known in ways that will possibly even make you less safe as you drive!

So. Build in some time. The key to gaining your dog’s buy-in is to take it at your dog’s pace, and sweeten the deal by pairing the new containment plan with something the dog loves — likely in the edible category. Here’s how to get your dog to wear a car harness:

  • Start with a sniff in your home. Whatever device you’re using, start getting your pup used to the idea of it in your home. Maybe that means while you’re watching TV, you bring over that new harness or crate. There’s a sniff, and a treat. Repeat. Repeat. Create a positive link.
  • Now add restriction, still in your home. Once pup is happy about the sight/smell of the new device, go a step further: go ahead and pop that harness on — time for cheese! ham! — and then take it right off. Repeat. Repeat. Keep going until the dog stares at that harness, mentally willing you to start that fun new game by putting it on.
  • Build in duration. Once your dog is mellow about putting the harness, make that feeling last a bit longer. Let her walk around in the harness and give her a bully stick to enjoy at the same time. Repeat a few nights in a row.
  • Hit the driveway! If pup is fully comfortable with the new equipment, it’s time to try it out in the driveway. Load up with, say, dried fish or turkey, and take pup out to the car. Pop that harness on – treat! – and then take it off. Repeat. Repeat. That’s it for today. Then do it all again the next day.
  • Try a super short drive with a big finish. Now pup is happy to pop up into the car and get into that harness or that crate, it’s time for a little drive. Ideal scenario: a three-minute drive to your dog’s BFF’s house. Any brief moment of concern in the new equipment is quickly rewarded by the best real-life reward in the arsenal: fun playdate. Repeat. Repeat.

There you go. Your pup now has happy associations of driving while restrained in the car. You didn’t rush it, and create a negative association with that brand new equipment. Instead, because you invested the time, that new stuff signals yummy treats and adventure. You’re ready to hit the road!

Read Next: Wondering Which Dog Car Harness To Buy? Read Our Review

Predatory Behavior

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This is the first time Woody ever met a horse. He was only about 10 months old in this photo. He started woofing and growling when he first spotted her from a distance; he was scared! With gentle encouragement, he made his way to the fence. The mare was curious and gentle, and she stood still and gently sniffed and blew her breath at him. Woody got closer and closer, though he was ready to flee at any moment. He finally licked her face and then backed away.

A reader commented on my most recent blog post (about my dog, Woody, coming face-to-face with the first rattlesnake we’ve seen this year). I mentioned that, in general, neither of my dogs is particularly predatory, and the reader asked how I knew that. It’s a good question!

Predatory behavior is natural and normal for dogs, and there are a number of ways it may be expressed. ALL dogs will exhibit some type and amount of predatory behavior but the type and intensity of the behavior that any given dog will express in different situations will depend on a number of factors, breed and the dog’s past experiences chief among them.

When dogs hunt for food, they may use a full “predatory sequence” of behaviors including (progressively, from spotting a prey animal to consuming it): eye (focusing eyesight on the animal); orient (moving toward the prey); stalk; chase; grab/bite; kill/bite; dissect; consume.

Humans have bred dogs in order to take advantage of certain aspects of this sequence. Herding breeds were developed to use the eye, orient, stalk, and chase phases of the predatory sequence – and to specifically exclude dogs who were predisposed to killing animals. Interestingly, some herding breeds who are used predominantly for working sheep (such as the Border Collie) have been developed to stop short of the grab/bite phase or the sequence, whereas breeds who are used predominantly for working cattle on the open range have been developed with more of a willingness to bite  – but, of course, again without the temptation to go further than using a bite to convince stubborn or feisty cattle to turn and go where they are being directed. It’s amazing that by using individuals with these behavioral tendencies in a breeding program, the behavior of the majority of the progeny can be predicted along such a very fine slice.

Dogs who are used for hunting, whether for rats and other small vermin (such as many terrier breeds), birds (Labradors, setters, pointers, spaniels) or for lions (such as the Rhodesian Ridgeback), all have been developed by humans to display certain aspects of the predatory sequence.

According to his mixed-breed DNA-test results, Woody is about a third to a half Labrador. I feel that this inheritance accounts for a lot of his behavior. He is a fetching fool; if allowed to do so, he will fetch until he passes out. And when Woody is faced with an animal of a new species (or a new individual of a familiar species, such as chickens or horses) in a structured environment (on-leash, for example), he is friendly and curious. His tail wags and his eyes and body are soft. He doesn’t stiffen and gaze intently at the animal, or try to pull or lunge toward it; he acts a lot like he’s meeting a new person that he thinks he might like. His attention isn’t focused, laser-like, on the animal, but soft and wiggly.

There are a few exceptions, all of which arise in uncontrolled circumstances. If he’s in the yard, and there is a squirrel or a strange cat within view, he will chase it. I think most dogs will do this, more from the fun of the chase than a desire to kill, although, of course, we can’t know what’s in a dog’s brain. If we’re walking off-leash somewhere, and he spots a jackrabbit or a deer – both of which he’s chased a couple of times without heeding my cues for “OFF!” or “HERE!” – he absolutely will at least start to run after them. He’s gotten way better about resisting that temptation, though the success of my recall and cue to “leave it” will depend on how far we’ve already hiked (if he’s already tired, he’s less likely to give chase), whether it’s super hot outside (if it’s blazing hot, he is less likely to give chase), and how close he was to the animal when he spotted it (if it was super close, it’s going to be very tempting to chase).

However, if he were to meet a cat or tame rabbit, squirrel, or deer when he’s on a leash, I know for a fact that he’d be friendly. His desire to chase is all about the fun of the chase.

Here’s a better indication that he’s not very predatory. He once dug up a vole (a mole-like creature) on our property; he LOVES to dig up their tunnels, although it’s clear from this incident that he has no clue WHY he’s digging or WHAT he’s digging for. He is highly attracted to the smell of the animals in the tunnels underground, and will deeply huff the hole and then dig furiously. One day, as I was walking around my property doing various chores, I saw him out in my field digging. A minute later, I looked again and saw him do the same sort of behavior I recently witnessed with the snake: He looked down at his feet, and then slowly swiveled his head and looked deliberately at me, and then slowly looked down again. The look was, “Mom, I’ve got something…but I don’t know what!”

Afraid it was a snake, I ran over to him, yelling “Off!” He obediently took a step backward as I ran toward him – and as I arrived I could see a stunned-looking little vole, laying on its back, with its feet still moving. I think he actually dug it out of the ground with his furious digging; I don’t think he had grabbed it, because it wasn’t wet or bitten. He was plainly mystified by its very presence – strongly drawn to it, but not sure what to do.

I’ll tell you who was certain what to do: my senior dog, Otto, who arrived on the scene a few seconds after I did. Otto took one look at the vole on the ground and immediately grabbed it and shook it. Boom: dead vole. And was he ever proud! “Ha!” he seemed to say. “That’s what you do with that, ya idiot.” Both Woody and I were shocked!

Some months later, I saw that same “Mom, this is weird! Come look!” expression on Woody’s face. When I went to investigate, I found him standing over what I think is a dead baby gopher. Since my property is PLAGUED by these voles and gophers, I celebrated this development at the time, but this was actually the last recorded death of a rodent here. And, to tell you the truth, I don’t know that Woody even was the one who killed it; it didn’t have a wound on it, and it was completely wet and covered with saliva, like he had been licking it. For all I know, he dug up a baby, licked it incessantly, and then it died of exposure from being wet and cold!

Different animals may provoke a different predatory response. Otto came from a shelter with a “rap sheet” of having killed someone’s chickens as a stray adolescent dog, but I was very easily able to dissuade him from his interest in my own chickens, with some simple lessons in “Leave it.” (You can see both his interest, and his willingness to “leave it” in this video I took a couple years ago, when my current chickens were new baby chicks. Look at Woody’s response, as a contrast. His interest seemed very maternal. He wanted to clean the baby chickens’ tiny butts! “But Mom! They need a mother!”)

But even though Otto seemed to know without any hesitation whatsoever how to kill a little rodent, and, indeed, had the strong instinct to do so, he’s never shown the slightest impulse to chase after or grab lizards or snakes. And some dogs definitely do! I have one friend whose dog had, over her lifetime, grabbed and dispatched at least three garter snakes (to her owner’s dismay; garter snakes are both harmless to dogs and a great asset in killing moles, gophers, and voles who destroy home gardens). Perhaps these are behaviors that are also learned, because my friend’s other dog, who came along when snake-killing dog was about four years old, would go nuts if she saw a lizard. If a lizard ran under a planter box or into the crevices of a rock wall, woe to the planter box or rock wall; she would tear them apart trying to get at the lizard.

Over the years, I have witnessed Otto’s lack of interest in the snakes we’ve seen on the trail, but the best evidence of this was when, years ago, I used him as a model for an article we did about snake avoidance training for dogs, and I used a friend’s pet snake as a co-model. The problem on that shoot was trying to get Otto to look at all interested in the snake (so that we could show how to teach him to “leave it” alone). His response ranged from “So what?” to “Can I go now?” He wasn’t afraid or interested. It was like trying to get him to work with rocks.

Though we hoped that Otto would look interested in the snake, for the sake of illustrating an article about teaching a dog to leave snakes alone, he couldn’t care less about the snake. We had to toss treats sort of near the snake to get him to look even mildly interested. If you look carefully, you can see he’s not looking at the snake, he’s looking for the treat we tossed near the snake.

In contrast, when, in each of the three instances he’s seen a rattlesnake on the trail, Woody has given me that same, “Mom? What’s this?” sort of look, and has moved away from the snake either by himself, or easily in response to my “Off!” cue. So I’m not terribly worried when walking either of my dogs off-leash in snake country, although I stay very alert at this time of year and scrupulously watch their reactions to everything they see. In the winter, I can space out a little while we walk; not so at snake times and in snake places.

For more about predatory dogs, and dealing with predatory behaviors, see https://www.whole-dog-journal.com/behavior/understanding-highly-predatory-dogs/.

Is your dog interested in some animals more than others?

Dog Hiccups: Can Dogs Get Hiccups?

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dog hiccups
Here's how to tell if your dog has the hiccups. Photo: iStock / Getty Images Plus/ Iryna Kazlova

Have you ever seen your dog’s body jerk with what appeared to be a hiccup? Yes, dogs can get hiccups. A hiccup is described in medical terms as a myoclonus of the diaphragm. A myoclonus is a sudden shock like contraction of a muscle. The diaphragm is the internal muscle between the chest and abdomen.

What Do Dog Hiccups Sound Like?  

Hiccups in dogs look very similar to hiccups in people. There’s a quick jerk or jump of the chest that appears to be involuntary. This is usually repeated several times in a rhythmic pattern. It may be silent, or there may be an audible grunt, squeak or puff of air associated with the hiccup. It has been described as the sound of a drop of water from a leaking faucet. The dog usually appears unperturbed.

dog hiccups
Dog hiccups are a are a rite of passage for puppies. Photo: iStock / Getty Images Plus/ monicadoallo

Why Do Dogs Get Hiccups?

Hiccups, in and of themselves, are a benign phenomenon. They are a rite of passage for puppies, one of those super cute things that they outgrow…like puppy breath. Enjoy both while they last!

Are They Ever Something To Worry About?

Adult dogs can also get hiccups, but they are way less common, and possibly less benign. The question becomes, is there something new that is irritating one of the nerves involved in the hiccup pathway. These include the phrenic nerve which passes over the heart, the vagus nerve (which travels up the side of the neck), the cervical spinal cord, and the brainstem.

The medical workup for persistent hiccups in an adult dog starts with a physical exam. Initial diagnostic tests generally include x-rays of the chest and abdomen and baseline blood work. Your veterinarian is looking for things like tumors, heart enlargement, stomach issues, hiatal hernia (an abnormality of the diaphragm), and electrolyte derangements in the blood.

Sometimes gastrointestinal diseases like inflammatory bowel disease and reflux esophagitis can trigger hiccups.  If your dog shows any signs associated with these diseases, treatment specific to the underlying disorder should resolve the hiccups as well.

How To Stop Your Dog’s Hiccups

If your hiccuping dog gets a clean bill of health from your veterinarian, there are a few tricks you can try to stop hiccups. Smaller meals more frequently throughout the day, as opposed to fewer, larger meals may help. Distention of the stomach is thought to perhaps tickle the diaphragmatic nerves. Sometimes putting a little sugar on the back of the tongue works. And finally, a finger touch to the back of the throat, similar to what you might do when “pilling” a dog, will sometimes stop hiccups. If all else fails, ask your veterinarian about gabapentin, a neuropathic pain medication which has been used successfully for hiccups in humans.


First Rattlesnake of the Season

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We didn't see a snake on this walk, which took place earlier in the spring. I didn't take photos of the snake; I was too busy calling Woody back to me and giving him his delicious jackpot.

I have relatives visiting from out of state, and after a two-day drive to get here, they want to stretch their legs on a hike. Since I am not sure how long they will be game to walk, I leave elderly Otto at home, and bring only 5-year-old Woody along with us.

We were maybe 100 yards up the trail, with Woody off-leash ahead of us by about 20 feet, when he stopped, looked at something on the ground in front of him, and looked back at me. I glanced down at whatever he was looking at and – “Woody! Off! Here!” He calmly and immediately stepped back away from the snake and trotted back to me for a jackpot of treats. “YES! What a good boy!”

We were close enough to see three or four “buttons” on the snake’s tail, but the snake never rattled them in alarm. Woody’s calm behavior didn’t upset the snake, and she did what rattlesnakes prefer to do when faced with humans or dogs: She slithered quietly off the trail and into the tall grass, out of sight.

We practice the “Off!” (a.k.a. “Leave it!”) behavior on every walk, and that event was exactly why. I want my dogs’ response to “Off!” to be instantaneous and calm. I want them to have every expectation that when they immediately turn away from whatever they were looking at or smelling when I gave the cue, and return promptly to me, that they will for sure get a treat – and just might get a jackpot. (That’s when they get a handful of treats, delivered one after another. A dog can eat a handful of small treats in about two seconds, but by delivering them one after another after another after another, it drags out the handful into a good 15 or 20 seconds of sustained nomming. It’s way more special than a handful given at once. It takes advantage of the same principle behind the programming of slot machines to let coin jackpots trickle out a bit at a time, instead of dumping all the coins into the tray at once: It seems like more!)

I think this training is essential for every dog who is walked off leash. But I know that I’m lucky; neither of my dogs is particularly predatory. If they were, I couldn’t ever let them walk off-leash in our neck of the woods from May through October, because instead of looking back at me with that, “Hey Mom? What’s this?” expression, I know that some dogs would just dive in and try to grab it, with potentially disastrous results. There are too many snakes around here to walk with a predatory dog off-leash. But even with my non-predatory dogs, the snake on the trail is exactly why we practice and practice some more.

For lots of information about rattlesnakes, their bites, preventing and treating snake bites, and training your dog to leave snakes (and other things) alone, please see all the following:

https://www.whole-dog-journal.com/care/how-to-prevent-or-treat-bites-from-poisonous-snakes/
https://www.whole-dog-journal.com/care/snake-avoidance-training-for-dogs/
https://www.whole-dog-journal.com/care/are-you-sure-it-was-a-rattlesnake/
https://www.whole-dog-journal.com/care/appreciating-rattlesnakes/
https://www.whole-dog-journal.com/care/why-are-the-effects-of-snake-venom-so-varied/
https://www.whole-dog-journal.com/care/a-snake-bite-survival-story/

What do you feed your dog? And why?

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The other day, I happened to go into a pet supply store that I had never been in before, and was looking at their collection of leashes, toys, treat bags, and, of course, food, when I overheard a conversation between a couple who were in the store with their new puppy. I had crossed paths with them several times, and had smiled at and ogled the puppy each time, but they both had frowns on and were looking only at the products as they walked up and down the food aisles. Finally, they flagged down a store employee. Throwing up her hands, the woman said, “You don’t sell the food that breeder told us to get! We don’t know what to get! It’s too much!”

Unfortunately, I had to go; as much as I wanted to, I couldn’t stay to hear what the store clerk told the couple.

But I couldn’t stop thinking about it. If you knew nothing – how would you know what to buy, where to start?

Pet supply store or veterinary clinic employees: I’d love to hear from you. How do you advise people who are looking for food and don’t know what to buy?

Dog owners: How did you choose what you feed?

I’ll go first:

I feed my dogs dry foods from three different companies, mostly. I tend to buy similar formulas – a chicken-based, “all life stages” food – from each of the three companies that I am familiar with and feel good about, and I usually switch which company’s product I buy with every single bag. Why chicken? I am not a huge fan of beef or lamb, as dog foods made with these tend to be lower in protein and higher in ash than high-quality chicken-based foods. And I don’t like the smell of fish-based foods – but more importantly, fish-based foods tend to be volatile (they go rancid quickly, especially at our summer temperatures, even indoors).

Dry food is not all they eat, though. I don’t make a big point of it, but if there are healthy leftovers from the family table that I feel like they would enjoy, they get those.

Also, if a dog food company sends me samples of something new, I often feed that to my dogs, whether it’s a canned, frozen, or dehydrated diet. I’m curious to see what different products look and smell like, how the dogs like it (how palatable it is) and how it comes out the other end (how digestible it is).

Neither Otto nor Woody is sensitive to any particular food ingredient, and neither seems to have digestive trouble if there is a spike or a dip in the amount of fat or protein they get. I’m lucky! Nevertheless, I go with the three main foods I feed because they are all in the same approximate ballpark in terms of protein and fat levels. One food has 25% protein and14% fat; the next has 23% protein and 13% fat, and the last has 26% protein and 15% fat. These levels seem to maintain my dogs at a healthy weight, coat, and energy level with a reasonably sized portion.

So, that’s us. I’ll repeat the question:

How did you choose what you feed your dogs? If you advise others about diet, what do you ask them about their dogs? How would you recommend that other people choose their dogs’ foods?

Lots To Offer

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Whole Dog Journal Editor-In-Chief Nancy Kerns

Nutrition, health, safety, training, behavior, puppy stuff, end-of-life issues – this issue has it all! 

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Thankful for Dog Love in Times of Loss

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Pam and Dean's dogs are a little lost without Dean. They are making up for it by staying close to Pam.

Just a super-short post today: My family is mourning the sudden loss of my sister’s husband, Dean. Yes, this is the family with three noisy little dogs, who have been Otto’s go-to dog-sitters since they moved to my town about five years ago. Otto loved and is going to miss his time on the sofa with Dean, enjoying hours of TV-watching and distracted petting.

Our hearts break for Dean’s loss, but our grief is nothing compared to my sister’s. She and Dean were a match, 28 years married (no kids) and still passionate about each other.

While all three of her dogs are barky and I find two of them to be whiny and neurotic, always clinging to my sister’s skirts, at the moment, I am just so thankful for their clinginess. She needs all the love (and even the distraction of barking) that they have to offer right now. She reports that they are all very lost, looking for their Dad, and in their confusion, are spending all their time underfoot or, when in bed, under the covers with her. She can’t even roll over without moving their little bodies first; they all want to be touching her right now.

I never anticipated saying this, but at the moment I am grateful that they are so demanding. They BARK when they want food and BARK for play and BARK to go for a walk. These demands will help my sister get out of bed and get outside. I hope she will eat when she feeds them. That’s enough to expect for now.

I spent days at the hospital with Dean and was with him when he passed. When I got home, I needed (and a week later, continue to need) to spend long moments with my face buried in Otto’s grass-scented, scruffy mane, feeling his tail gently wagging. And when yet another kind comment on Dean’s death announcement online makes me start crying again, Woody always seems to notice and gets up to shove his nose under my elbow, insistent with concern.

I don’t know what any of us would do without dog love.

How Long To Feed Puppy Food?

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We don't know why the nutritional adequacy statements on the labels of dog foods are always so tiny; it's ridiculous that some of the most important on the label is printed so small. Every owner should know which nutritional adequacy statement appears on the label of the food they buy for their dogs or puppies.

If there is one thing that everyone knows, it’s that you have to start out puppies on puppy food. And then at some point later, maybe when the pup is a year old, you can switch him over to adult food. Right?

Well, no. There’s a bit more to it than that.

 Let’s get the easy part sorted out first. Generally speaking, a dog is considered an adult when they reach full size, on average around 1 year of age. Small-breed dogs mature faster and can be considered an adult around 9 to 10 months of age. Large breed dogs mature more slowly; it may take them until 18 months or more to stop growing. 

PUPPIES HAVE GREATER NEEDS

Growing puppies have greater nutritional needs than adult dogs. They require more calories per pound of body weight than adults – and they need a diet that contains a higher percentage of fat and protein (including higher amounts of many specific amino acids that contribute to the food’s total protein) than adult dogs. Their needs for calcium, phosphorus, and several other minerals are also higher than the amounts needed by adult dogs. 

The legal minimum (and a few maximum) values for the nutrient requirements of puppies and adult dogs are enumerated in tables (called “nutrient profiles”) established by the Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO). One column lists the nutrient levels required for the “maintenance” of adult dogs; these are called the “adult maintenance” nutrient profiles. Another column lists the nutrient levels that meet the needs of breeding animals, pregnant or nursing females, and growing puppies. These are called the “growth and reproduction” nutrient profiles.

The phrase “puppy food” isn’t the guarantee of a product’s nutritional adequacy. Rather, it’s the “AAFCO nutritional adequacy statement” that indicates whether the food meets the legal requirements of a “complete and balanced diet” for puppies. If it does, the statement will either say the food is formulated to meet the nutritional levels established by the AAFCO Dog Food Nutrient Profiles “for growth” or “for all life stages.” AAFCO now requires that foods also specify whether they are appropriate for large-breed puppies with a statement that uses either “including” or “except for” the growth of large size dogs (70 lbs. or more as an adult).

“ALL” INCLUDES PUPPIES

Remember, there are only two Nutrient Profiles: one for “growth and reproduction” and one for “adult maintenance” (sometimes called just “maintenance”). So what’s this about “all life stages”? 

“All life stages” includes growth and reproduction; a food that is so labeled must meet the requirements for puppies. Whether you feed a product that is formulated for “growth” or for “dogs of all life stages” – which, again, is the same thing – you could feed that product from weaning through your dog’s senior years. “Puppy food” may be manufactured with a smaller kibble size, but, nutritionally, it can be fed to a dog of any life stage.

ADULTS ONLY

The Adult Maintenance Nutrient Profiles have lower minimum values for protein and fat, so they usually contain less protein and fat. Protein and fat are the most expensive ingredients in a food, so if the manufacturer can put less of them in a product, they usually do. Less fat also means fewer calories.

 You may want to consider switching your dog to a “maintenance” food if he’s both (1) fully grown and (2) overweight or gaining unneeded weight on the same amount of food you’ve always fed. Or, keep feeding an “all life stages” food, and just feed less of it! 

5 Tips for Avoiding Fights at the Dog Park

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dog park
Dog parks can be a great place to allow your dog to run, play, socialize with other dogs, and burn off excess energy - but they can also trigger fights, bites, and bad behavior. Photo by Hannah Steinke

Dog parks have never been more popular. They can be good opportunities for your dog to expend excess energy and have fun with other dogs. Unfortunately, as their use increases, so does the concern about dog fights. Fortunately, there are some simple things you can do that will dramatically reduce the chances of your dog getting into a serious altercation.

1. Ensure the park has enough space.

Some dogs need a generous amount of space, especially in the context of a dog park where high-intensity play is common and group dynamics are constantly changing as new dogs arrive and others leave. Don’t go to the park when it’s busy – and be prepared to leave early if it starts to get crowded. Avoid congested areas and give more space to dogs who seem stressed or highly aroused, dogs who are playing roughly, and dogs playing with toys. 

2. Observe and assess the park conditions.

It’s important to understand that your dog may be at risk merely by being a bystander, so don’t hesitate to change your plan when you get there. It may be disappointing and frustrating if you don’t go in or have to leave early because of other park users, but at least your dog will come home with both ears. 

It’s impossible to predict or control the behaviors of other park users – whether they have two legs or four – but you can watch for some indicators to help determine the risk of a dog conflict occurring. Lots of dog poop on the ground can indicate that the park has many users who do not follow rules or are lax in supervising their dogs. Caregivers who are sitting or standing around chatting or using cell phones are likely to be less effective at supervising and intervening before a fight happens. 

Before you enter the park, observe the dogs that are there. Dogs who are comfortable have loose and wiggly bodies. Generally speaking, dogs who are uncomfortable either look stiff, perhaps with tails held very high and hackles raised, or look hunched and lowered, with tails tucked (beyond what is typical of the breed). Avoid dogs who relentlessly follow, chase, or hump other dogs despite the other dogs’ attempts to move away. 

Other red flags to watch for include dogs excessively chasing or roughhousing, dogs ignoring the calls of their caregivers, and dogs in shock collars. Dogs wearing shock collars experience stress, even when not actively being shocked, and they may be at risk of redirecting their frustration, stress, anxiety, and/or anger toward the nearest bystander.

Not all Dogs Should Go to Dog Parks; Not All Dogs Want to Go

Before setting out for the park, carefully consider if your dog is a good fit. A dog park is not the place for a dog to learn how to socialize with other dogs; there are too many things that cannot be controlled to ensure that the dog has a positive experience. And overwhelming a dog is a sure way to sensitize her further to the proximity of other dogs.

Dog parks are meant for highly social dogs who enjoy the company of all sorts of unfamiliar dogs. A dog who merely tolerates other dogs or is selective about her dog friends might do okay at a dog park – or she may become sensitized to the experience and become less comfortable.  

Be aware that senior dogs and young dogs are at a higher risk of dog fights. Some research suggests that adult dogs are more likely to be the aggressor in a dog park conflict and adolescent dogs (particularly males) under 1-year-old are more likely to be the victim. 

A dog’s past behavior is the best predictor of future behavior, but what about dogs with no previous experience in a dog park, or a newly adopted dog with an unknown or unreliable behavior history? Wait several months to get to know a dog before bringing him to a dog park, even if the rescue assures you that your newly adopted dog is good with other dogs. 

Before your dog’s first visit to the dog park, find an opportunity to learn to recognize canine stress signals and appropriate play behaviors, and ensure you have good voice control of your dog in distracting environments. When you are out walking your dog, practice recalls with your dog on a long line. 

Joining an on-leash walking group can be a safe option to assess and improve your dog’s emotions and behaviors around other dogs. You may discover you and your dog prefer private playdates with one or two familiar dogs or long-leash sniff ’n’ strolls with or without dog friends. 

3. Use caution in the entrance area.

Most dog park conflicts occur within 100 feet of the entrance area, with about half of them within the first 20 feet. 

Good dog parks display the park rules; great parks also offer signage that describes appropriate play behaviors and canine stress signals, to help educate dog caregivers who may not know what body language to watch for.

This is a high-risk zone because it’s usually congested with distracted caregivers chatting with others or looking at their phones while their dogs race around the area and mob the new arrivals. Some dog park designs make congestion worse by placing amenities like benches or water fountains in the area. Also, funneling all traffic to one entrance and exit, requiring tired dogs who are leaving to mix with over-excited dogs who are arriving, makes the entrance area a fight waiting to happen. 

If possible, use an alternate entrance or exit. If this isn’t an option, do your best to wait until the congestion clears (or come back at a different time). Once through the gate, move quickly away from the entrance area and call your dog to come with you. Refrain from tossing a toy, chatting with someone, or being otherwise distracted until you are at least 100 feet from the entrance. 

4. Keep your dog moving along.

Some caregivers simply enter the park and sit or stand there, expecting their dogs to play with unfamiliar or incompatible dogs. It’s better to move farther into the park immediately upon entering and continue to walk throughout the park, allowing your dog the choice to engage with, avoid, or ignore dogs along the way, and encouraging your dog to move along with you if her interactions with other dogs are unruly or uncomfortable. 

Many dog professionals who are experienced in managing groups of off-leash dogs believe that conflicts are less likely to occur when groups of dogs are kept moving along rather than remaining in one area. 

If you want to chat with someone, it’s likely safer to chat while you walk and keep your attention on your dog. Some dog parks are not well-suited to walking a route, such as “dog runs” or parks without a suitable substrate for walking (such as pea gravel). These types of parks are better for brief playdates with a small group of compatible dog friends or a quick romp when the park is empty.

5. Actively supervise your dog.

Effective supervision involves more than just keeping your eyes on your dog. Just like a supervisor at a school yard during recess, you’ll need to be actively engaged and focused on your dog and the other dogs in the area. A dog park is not the place to use your cell phone or catch up on your reading.

Bring your leash with you and watch for canine stress signals indicating your dog or other dogs are uncomfortable or over threshold. Even too much “happy stress” can lead to dog conflicts, especially when intense play shifts into frustration or “the zoomies” (frenetic random activity periods). 

Dogs who are close to threshold will find it difficult to respond to cues, so stay attuned to your dog’s arousal levels and periodically ensure that your dog still responds to your cues. If your dog starts disregarding your recall cue, it may be time to change the activity, move to a different area, or leave the park.

It’s important to recognize inappropriate dog play and to be ready to intervene when you see your dog or other dogs exhibiting behaviors that could lead to conflicts. Just because your dog plays well with familiar dogs doesn’t mean your dog will play well with all dogs. Some dogs have incompatible play styles, and dogs who haven’t had much experience playing with unfamiliar dogs might be too rough when playing with new dogs. 

Doing a simple consent test can help determine if the play between dogs is consensual or if you need to intervene: Interrupt the play and let the dog who is smaller, less assertive, or the one being chased choose to resume play or not.