I confess: Every once in a while, I take advantage of my role as WDJ’s editor and ask an author to write about something that I, personally, need to learn about for the health of my own dog or dogs. There is an article in this very issue that meets this description.
Nope, it’s not the one that my new puppy modeled for (that’s Boone on page 8, hanging out in our outdoor kennel). I have long used a kennel to contain stray dogs (while looking for their owners) and for litters of foster puppies (when I have them). And I’ve long been a fan of teaching my dogs to chill and be chill when kept in short-term confinement in a kennel.
But this does concern Boone. For months now, he’s been exhibiting a behavior that none of my other dogs have ever been prone to: resource-guarding. And the first time I saw it was sort of dramatic.
One day, when Boone was about 14 weeks old, I was helping an 84-year-old friend with the 10-month-old Border Collie she had recently adopted from our local shelter (that’s a story for another day). After a session of showing my friend how to improve her dog’s on-leash behavior by engaging and rewarding the dog’s attention while walking off-leash (one of my favorite training techniques), I asked my friend if she’d like her pup to play with my pup. I let Boone out of my office, and the two young dogs started to romp and wrestle. It was all fun and games, until my friend happened to give Boone a treat when he approached her in greeting.
In his aroused state, he immediately decided my friend and her treats were a resource that were well-worth guarding from the visiting dog – her own dog! – and he went from playful to hostile in a split second. He spun around and went right after the little Border Collie, growling and snarling. She ran away, yelping, and he came right back to stand guard next to my astonished friend, wagging his tail but with all his fur standing on end. “Don’t worry, ma’am, our treats are safe from that dog!”
Fortunately, I knew enough not to punish Boone. I picked him up and carried him back to my office to let him calm down. No harm was done, the young dogs have played together without incident (and without treats on hand!) several times since then, and I now have knowledge about Boone that I need to be aware of. And, boy, am I conscious about this, because the last thing in the world I want is for Boone to covet and make a play for anything that rightfully belongs to the king of the castle, my senior dog, Otto. I asked WDJ’s Training Editor, Pat Miller to write the article about resource-guarding in puppies; I’ve learned a lot, and it has really helped. I hope it helps you, too.
You would think by now I’d have learned my lesson and stopped telling people that their dogs are overweight. After all, I nearly lost one of my best friends over a spontaneous comment I made when I saw her dog for the first time in months – and the dog had positively ballooned in size since I had last seen her. (I blurted, “OMG! What happened to Carly? She got so fat!” And my friend didn’t talk to me for months after that.) But it seems like people just don’t recognize fat dogs when they have one!
I usually manage to hold my tongue when it comes to strangers’ fat dogs. But not long ago I was attending a “puppy social” class with my new puppy Boone, and I saw a Labrador who probably weighed 50 pounds. Mind you, this was a class for puppies who were less than 20 weeks old. I felt that itch. “NO!” I told myself, “Don’t say anything!” But after the owner of the Lab asked how old Boone was, and I politely asked how old her pup was, it just burst out of me. “How much does your pup weigh?” I asked. And I added (tactfully, I thought), “She’s gigantic!”
“Oh, yes, she’s going to be a big dog,” the owner replied, laughing. “Both of her parents weigh more than 100 pounds. She’s just big!” But the puppy wasn’t just big, she was positively obese!
Anywhere there are dogs, whether at the pet supply store, dog park, or dog-training class, I find myself channeling the spirit of a combination Oprah Winfrey/canine diet proponent and pronouncing (but just inside my head): “Your dog is fat! And your dog is fat! And your dog is fat!”
Look, I’m overweight, too. But this is a result of fully conscious choices I make for myself; I know what the result will be when I consume too many calories and don’t exercise enough. But our dogs don’t have any such understanding; their food intake and access to exercise – and thus, their body weight and condition – are completely up to us. When our dogs are overweight, it’s our fault. Period!
Why do I care? How have I turned into the fat-dog sheriff? Why does it bother me so much when people allow their dogs to become so overweight?
Here’s why: Dogs who are maintained at a healthy weight have a lower risk than fat dogs for many life-threatening health problems, including diabetes, kidney disease, metabolic and endocrine disorders, hypertension, and some forms of cancer. Older dogs with arthritis can remain ambulatory and active much longer if they are slender. Dogs with a lean body mass have fewer injuries to bones, muscles, and tendons than dogs who are carrying excess weight – and studies have shown that they live, on average, about two years longer than overweight dogs.
And it’s bad enough to see overweight older dogs. You are doing your dog a huge disservice if he’s under a year old and is already overweight. Make a growing puppy carry a lot of extra weight on his immature joints and you are practically signing him up for the development of painful arthritis at a prematurely young age.
HOW TO HELP YOUR DOG LOSE WEIGHT
So what how do you help your dog to lose weight? I thought you’d never ask.
1. Get an accurate, honest assessment of your dog’s condition. Make an appointment for your dog’s annual health examination. At that visit, let your veterinarian know that you are concerned about your dog’s weight and want her professional opinion: How much should your dog weigh, ideally?
Every time I have offered my opinion to friends or family that I think their dogs are overweight – I’ve already admitted that this happens a lot – their first response is always the same: “Really? My vet has never mentioned that!”
I suspect that many veterinarians are gun-shy when it comes to bringing up this topic with their clients; it probably makes most people defensive! But if you ask your vet for her opinion, and remain open and receptive to her answer, you just might learn that she’s been keeping her true opinion about your dog’s condition to herself. If she hesitates or waffles at all, ask a different question: “Do you think he should lose a little weight? Would he be healthier if he lost some weight?”
2 Record a baseline and set a goal. Using the scales at your vet’s office, get an accurate weight for your dog. Write it down, along with the date. You could also use a cloth tape measure and record your dog’s girth just behind his front legs, at the widest place around his ribs, and where his “waist” is supposed to be (just behind his ribs).
Knowing your dog’s ideal waist measurement is probably impossible, but your vet should have been able to give you a number to strive for in terms of an ideal weight for your dog.
3. Aim for a weight loss of 3% to 5% of your dog’s body weight per month, or 1% per week. A 50-pound dog should lose about half a pound per week, or 2 pounds per month.
4. Feed your dog fewer calories. The number of calories your dog should be fed in order to maintain her ideal weight – not her current weight – is referred to as her “resting energy requirement (RER).” To determine your dog’s RER, convert her ideal weight in pounds to kilograms by dividing by 2.2. Then multiply that number by 30 and add 70.
Say I have a dog who weighs 100 pounds, but who should weigh about 90 pounds. Ninety pounds divided by 2.2 is 40.9 kg. Now I multiply by 30 and add 70:
40.9 x 30 = 1,227 + 70 = 1,297
1,297. That’s how many calories per day I should feed the 100-pound dog whose ideal weight is around 90 pounds. Now go check the number of calories in the food you give your dog. The food my dog is eating right now contains 380 calories per cup. So I’ll divide the number of calories my hypothetical fat dog should be getting by the number of calories in each cup of food:
1,297 ÷ 380 = 3.41 cups of food
“But wait!,” you say. “On the label of the food I feed my dog, it says I should be feeding a dog who weighs between 75 and 100 pounds between 4 3/4 and 5 1/2 cups of food per day!” What can I say? That’s probably how your dog ended up overweight! The sad fact is, most dog food labels overestimate dogs’ RER. They generally cover for this by adding the note, “Adjust feeding for optimal body weight.”
The moral of my example: Look at your dog’s food label to get the caloric content of the food, and calculate how much you should be feeding him based on his RER.
This amount may need to be adjusted in some cases. Dogs who are substantially overweight may do best with an interim target weight (rather than their ultimate ideal weight) to start with. Very active dogs may require up to 1.4 times their RER to keep their weight loss at a safe rate of no more than 5% per month. Puppies who are 4 months and older may need as much as 2 times their RER.
Of course, this addresses only the dog’s basic diet. If you feed a lot of treats, check the caloric content of the treats and reduce your dog’s food by about the amount of calories you are feeding him in treats. Because dog foods are complete and balanced and treats are not, however, you shouldn’t replace too many of his food calories with treats.
Most dogs care more about the number of treats they get than the size of each treat; it’s more rewarding for a dog to receive several small treats than one big one. Using tiny treats will help you reward your dog without adding too many extra calories.
5. Weigh your dog frequently, especially when first starting a weight-loss program – at least once a week. If your dog is too heavy to pick up, you’ll need to go to your veterinarian’s office in order to get an accurate weight.
Once your dog begins losing weight steadily, you can go longer between weigh-ins, but recheck at least twice a month to make sure you’re still on track. It’s easy to slip back into giving too much food and undo much of the good you’ve done if you rely solely on how your dog looks and feels. By the time you notice a difference, your dog could have gained a lot of weight back.
6. Increase your dog’s exercise –but slowly. Regular exercise is also an essential component of a successful weight-loss program. Proper exercise not only burns calories, but also helps to burn fat and build muscle, improving body condition. As your dog loses weight and gains muscle, he will feel better and become more active, which will speed up the weight-loss process.
If your dog is not used to exercise, don’t try to do too much too soon. Start with very short sessions tailored to your dog’s capabilities, such as on-leash walks that gradually lengthen as your dog’s exercise tolerance increases. Don’t exercise your dog to the point where he is sore afterward. Non-weight-bearing exercise, such as swimming, is ideal for dogs with joint problems, and for other dogs as well. Again, start slowly, using a dog life jacket if that helps him to feel more comfortable in the water.
If your dog is older or has health problems, consult with your veterinarian before beginning an exercise program. If your dog is really reluctant to exercise, it could be a sign that something’s wrong. A trial of pain medication can help you figure out whether your dog’s lack of activity is related to discomfort.
7. Keep your eyes on the prize: more time to enjoy with a healthier, happier dog. Your dog may not be happy about his new diet at first; he may start begging, counter-surfing, and even going through the kitchen trash, looking for a few extra calories. Give him a carrot to munch on – but don’t give in and give him fatty treats. Soon enough, as you begin to spend more time with him walking, and as his body begins to feel lighter and less burdened with all that extra weight, he’ll start to enjoy those walks more and worry less about how many kibbles are in his bowl.
You just brought your new puppy home and you can’t wait to head out on that first walk. You’ve been picturing this happy moment forever. You pop on the leash, swing open the door and . . . your puppy won’t move. Huh.
So you pull her a little, thinking she just has to get into the swing of things. But now she’s flat-out refusing. She has planted herself. Elbows locked.
Weird.
When you try again later, she gets a whole 10 feet down the walkway before the brakes come on. You pick her up and try carrying her a bit. When you set her down, she’ll walk all right – straight back to the house, desperately straining the whole way.
If you’re like most folks, you’re mystified – and a little disappointed. After all, aren’t dogs supposed to like walks more than anything else?
SENSIBLE SELF-PRESERVATION
The truth is, it makes total sense when a puppy is hesitant to head out on a leash with her new owner. As stunned as you are at this turn of events, look at it from the puppy’s perspective:
This first week, your new pup is suddenly in a completely new environment without the canine family she’s always known.
Previously, any new experience took place surrounded by littermates, but she has to process this leash-and-walk thing all alone.
This may be her first day wearing a collar – a strange thing snug around her neck.
This may be her first moment with a leash attached to that collar, adding pressure that might make her feel trapped. (Just because we humans are used to seeing dogs on leash does not mean it is natural for them!)
It’s possible that her only prior outdoor time has been the same yard every time. As you open the door, she is overwhelmed by completely new smells, sounds, and sights. Maybe she’s never gone down steps before, or heard a car, or seen a kid on a bike. She needs to process all of that at her pace.
As nice as you are, remember you’re still a relative stranger to your puppy, so your presence may not yet be very reassuring.
So, it’s not shocking when a new puppy hates her first walk. In fact, it’s surprising when she likes it – and it likely means she had a good breeder or foster home where somebody took the time to introduce things beautifully! But never fear. Follow these steps and you’ll be happily walking together soon.
SLOW DOWN WHEN LEASH TRAINING YOUR DOG
The key is simple: Use your own empathy as a guide, and break this overwhelming experience into smaller, digestible pieces:
Spend the first afternoon with just a light little collar on the pup (not a wide leather collar with a heavy buckle). Distract the pup with fun toys and play so she doesn’t just sit around thinking about how itchy, strange, or distracting that collar is. It may take minutes, hours, or days to get used to.
To create positive feelings about the collar, give the pup special treats (such as a morsel of turkey or cheese) whenever you put her collar on.
When she’s okay with a collar, start attaching a light kitty leash she can drag around inside for five minutes at a time. (And, again, give her a treat every time.) The pup may try to bite the leash. Keep up some fun distractions to minimize that. The goal is to see from the pup’s body language that she’s not freaked out by the feeling of the leash.
Once the pup is more relaxed about the leash, start picking up the end of the leash from time to time, but follow pup closely so that there’s as little pressure as possible on her neck.
Going well? Then try all of this outside in the yard.
While you’re doing these exercises to get pup accustomed to the collar and leash, also take baby steps in terms of getting her used to all the new outdoor sights and sounds. Sit together on your front stoop, watching the world go by, enjoying a tiny piece of hot dog when trucks, dogs, or kids on skateboards pass.
Getting to this point – a pup who’s mellow about walking around the yard with you holding the leash – may take three minutes or three days. Whatever it takes is just fine!
And as for all these fun distractions you’ve been using to take the pup’s mind off the collar and the leash? Keep them around! The fun voice, the bent knees and eye contact, the dancing steps, the clapping hands, the sing-song voice, the treats – and the lack of pressure in your vibe? Bring all of that with you as you begin to take this leash experience on the road!
Mind you, if you live in a city with no option except a leashed walk for going to the bathroom, obviously all of this has to be compressed, unless you use pee pads. Still, an empathetic mindset will help you find small ways to make this more comfortable.
Use your own yard (or hallway) to get your puppy comfortable with the feeling of the leash. Let her drag it at first, and distract her with yummy treats, a happy voice, and maybe a squeaky toy. Move along with your pup as she explores, so that the leash doesn’t tighten and create panic in this early stage.
START WITH A COLLAR WHEN LEASH TRAINING; USE A HARNESS LATER
You may notice that I keep talking about collars instead of harnesses. Many folks start right away with a harness, but in my opinion that just adds to the “Oh my gosh what the heck are you putting on me” reaction.
It’s certainly easier to get used to the feeling of a light collar than a big contraption that might pull or bind in several places. For me, a martingale (limited-slip) collar is ideal for the first few weeks of walking: easy to put on, light to wear, and totally secure. (We like the Martingale Collar with Quick Snap Buckle from petsafe.net.) I wait until I’ve built more confidence with a pup to add the extra hurdle of a harness.
ENLIST A DOGGY ESCORT
By far the fastest way to get a puppy to walk forward enthusiastically is to pair her with an experienced furry friend. It is hilarious to watch a pup who was utterly refusing to move suddenly trot off happily the second another dog walks by!
If you can scout out a neighbor with a wonderful, calm, adult dog, recruit that team to help you with three walks in three days. More than likely that’ll be all it takes to convince your pup that it’s just fine to be out and about.
Two things to watch out for:
Be sure not to use a dog who gets barky on walks! The pup is ready to pick up on anything the bigger dog is feeling, which is why we specifically want to pair that pup with a calm, easy-going walker who will take in stride everything you pass.
Most likely, the puppy will try to jump up on the bigger dog, grab their leash, and generally get in the way. That’s normal! Just put more space between the dogs, and use treats and your charismatic voice and vibe to redirect pup’s interest to you from time to time.
ZIG-ZAGS, WIGGLES, SNIFFING OKAY!
The primary goal of the first few weeks of walking is to get the puppy out and about and feeling great about the world. You can never get the first four sponge-like months of a puppy’s life back, and only with leash walks can you make the most of it. (There’s just not enough new stuff to learn about inside our own homes.)
We want to deeply instill the lesson that novelty is just fine – before biology starts to tell the pup that anything she hasn’t seen yet could be a threat. The only way to do that is to expose the puppy, carefully and always at her comfort level, to new sights, smells, sounds, and situations.
Given that the giant priority is keeping pup feeling happy, this is not the time for, say, instilling a picture-perfect heel. Instead, this is a time to bring that pouch filled with yummy stuff, and teach the pup that you, walks, and new things are often paired with food. This is also a time to let pup sniff to her heart’s content, because every “sniffari” helps her learn enormously about the world, which builds confidence.
Don’t get frustrated if that means your walks seem small; they’re not small to the pup who’s just used her nose to “meet” 15 dogs, three kids, and a senior citizen! There is plenty of time for you to teach your dog a different kind of walk, where you’re both walking swiftly ahead together. Right now, though, as your brand-new puppy learns what the world has to offer, walks filled with zig-zags, wiggles, and sniffs are perfect.
Yes, You Should take Your Pup for Walks Before the Last Puppy 'Shot'
Maybe you’re thinking: “But wait! We can’t walk our puppy off our property until her parvo/distemper shots are done at 4 months!” If so we ask that you – and your veterinarian – review the latest guidance on the behavioral importance of a more nuanced, less black-and-white approach. In short: It’s imperative for your puppy’s behavioral health that you bring her out and about –you just have to be smart about it!
This isn’t just our opinion; you can take comfort in knowing that today’s veterinary leaders no longer advise keeping puppies wrapped in cotton until they are five months or more. Read the following – and share it with your vet, too!
From the American Veterinary Medical Association’s “Literature Review on the Welfare Implications of Socialization of Puppies”:
By 8 to 9 weeks of age, most dogs are sufficiently neurologically developed that they are ready to start exploring unfamiliar social and physical environments. Data show that if they are prohibited from doing so until after 14 weeks of age they lose such flexibility and may be forever fearful [our emphasis] in these situations. Such dogs may function well within extremely restricted social situations but will be fearful and reactive among unfamiliar people, pets or in environments outside of the house.
From the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behaviorists’ (ASVAB)
“Position Statement on Puppy Socialization”:
The primary and most important time for puppy socialization is the first three months of life. During this time puppies should be exposed to as many new people, animals, stimuli, and environments as can be achieved safely and without causing over-stimulation manifested as excessive fear, withdrawal or avoidance behavior. For this reason, ASVAB believes that it should be the standard of care for puppies to receive such socialization before they are fully vaccinated . . .
Incomplete or improper socialization during this important time can increase the risk of behavioral problems later in life . . .
While puppies’ immune systems are still developing during these early months, the combination of maternal immunity, primary vaccination, and appropriate care makes the risk of infection relatively small compared to the chance of death from a behavioral problem.
The odds are high that your pup will be incredibly difficult to live with if you fail to introduce her to the world in her first few months. If your pup has already received one or two vaccinations, and you are educated and careful about where you go – avoiding unknown dogs and places where many dogs or wildlife frequent – the odds are low that she’d become infected with parvo or distemper while you do that important work.
Almost all pet supply stores now carry a variety of probiotic supplements for dogs. Check the side and back labels and make sure the species of helpful microorganisms are listed and the amounts of each number in the billions. We also recommend buying products that carry a seal from the National Animal Supplement Council (NASC), which provides quality checks for manufacturers.
Probiotics (“friendly” or beneficial microorganisms) are everywhere these days – in all kinds of foods and supplements designed for humans and dogs. People used to wonder, “What do probiotics do?” Today, we might wonder what they don’t do, for manufacturers claim that their products improve digestion and reduce symptoms of diarrhea, allergies, dental problems, kidney disease, urinary tract infections, anxiety, depression, arthritis, impaired immunity, inflammation, skin and coat conditions, bad breath, obesity – and even problematic anxious behavior!
For that last claim, at least, there is some decent evidence (see “Behavioral Probiotics,” WDJ August 2020). But very few clinical trials support the full range of advertising claims for canine probiotics. In March 2017, the Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association published a meta-analysis that reviewed 17 probiotic studies involving dogs and cats. The most encouraging studies found only weak support for the treatment of diagnosed conditions, and all recommended further research.
In contrast, many veterinarians and owners who prescribe or give probiotics to their dogs cite positive anecdotal evidence that beneficial bacteria have helped their dogs. Their enthusiastic recommendations are not disproven but are not well supported by science-based evidence, either.
WHAT ARE PROBIOTICS & WHAT DO PROBIOTICS DO FOR DOGS?
“Probiotic” is a catchall label for any living bacteria or microorganism present in your body that is beneficial to or supportive of your health. If present in sufficient numbers, these bacteria starve or crowd out harmful microbes by depriving them of nutrients and space in the microbiome, a community of bacteria, viruses, fungi, and other microbes in the body, especially the digestive tract. Probiotics may also secrete chemicals that can kill pathogenic bacteria and even viruses.
The risks of experimenting with probiotics appear to be low. Adverse side effects are rare. Probiotic supplements do not promote antibiotic resistance in other bacteria and are not themselves pathogenic. Severely immunocompromised dogs should be given probiotics only under veterinary supervision, but for most dogs, probiotics are considered safe.
TYPES OF PROBIOTICS FOR DOGS
Though there are countless species of microorganisms that could be considered as probiotics, there are only a dozen or so that are frequently found in supplements manufactured for use in humans and dogs. Here are a few of the most common dog probiotics:
Lactobacillus bacterial species ferment sugar into lactic acid, preventing harmful bacteria from growing in the intestine. These bacteria are used in the production of fermented foods such as yogurt, kefir, sauerkraut, and pickles. Lactobacillus acidophilus, L. casei, and L. rhamnosus often appear in probiotic supplements intended for dogs. Note that L. casei has been thought to increase anxiety in dogs, but that association has not been demonstrated in clinical trials.
Soil-based organisms (SBOs) occur naturally in soil and water, though today’s population of SBOs is a fraction of what it was before the adoption of herbicides, pesticides, and factory-farming methods. Most SBOs survive stomach acid, heat, and exposure to antibiotics; they do not require refrigeration and are not made from dairy products. Bacillus coagulans,B. indicus, and B. subtilis are SBOs considered safe for dogs.
Saccharomyces boulardii is not a bacterium but rather a beneficial yeast. It treats acute and chronic diarrhea and yeast infections in humans, and it is said to have a similar effect on dogs. When used concurrently with antibiotics, S. boulardi helps protect beneficial gut bacteria from the damage caused by the antibiotics.
CHOOSING A PROBIOTIC FOR YOUR DOG
Probiotic supplements come as pills, capsules, powders, soft treats, enhanced foods, and live-culture yogurt and kefir. Most dogs accept probiotics willingly, especially if they are combined with favorite foods.
The probiotic marketplace is confusing because there are so many species of beneficial microorganisms, only a few of which have been studied. Conclusions based on human or laboratory animal research may not apply to dogs.
We recommend shopping for probiotics from well-known manufacturers whose products are clearly labeled with species and strain, such as Bifidobacterium animalis (strain AHC7) or Enterococcus faecium (strain SF68), which are recommended for dogs with acute diarrhea.
Check labels for the product’s strength measured in colony-forming units (CFUs), which estimate the number of viable microorganism cells capable of reproducing in a sample. Most veterinary sources recommend 1 to 10 billion CFUs daily for dogs. Products that measure their CFUs in the millions or lower numbers are likely to be ineffective.
Feed the 'Good Guys' with Prebiotics
Prebiotics are indigestible food ingredients that nourish or feed beneficial bacteria, improving the host animal’s health. Most prebiotics consists of soluble, fermentable fibers such as fructooligosaccharides (FOS) and bacteria-supporting fibers from inulin, larch trees, pectins, beet pulp, and gums such as guar gum.
Because they are natural partners, prebiotics are often combined with probiotics in supplements. The small amounts of prebiotic fiber in such products are unlikely to cause problems, but when given by themselves, fiber supplements should be used with caution. Too much soluble fiber can lead to gas and loose stools. It’s important that dogs drink enough water when taking fiber supplements, so add water to your dog’s food if needed.
FOOD SOURCES OF PROBIOTICS FOR DOGS
If your dog enjoys dairy (see “Dogs and Dairy Products,” May 2022), an easy way to provide abundant populations of probiotics while saving money is to make your own yogurt or kefir. Both foods can be made with commercial “starter” powders or a tablespoon of active-culture yogurt or kefir. Yogurt usually contains only a few bacterial strains while kefir may contain over 60. Search online for video demonstrations of the culturing processes or check with starter manufacturers for details.
When introducing freshly made yogurt or kefir, start with small amounts, such as 1 teaspoon per 20 pounds of body weight added to your dog’s dinner. Wait 24 hours and watch for digestive problems such as diarrhea.
If your dog enjoys the taste and feels well, add more the next day. Several experts say to feed up to 2 tablespoons yogurt or kefir per 20 pounds of body weight per day, but many dogs in excellent health eat significantly more. Monitor your dog’s response and check with your veterinarian for best results.
DOSING PROBIOTICS FOR YOUR DOG
Check labels for expiration dates and storage instructions (some probiotics require refrigeration), and follow instructions for use.
If your dog suffers from a condition for which a specific strain of beneficial bacteria is recommended, follow label directions or administer the product as your veterinarian suggests. While your veterinarian may recommend a single-strain probiotic for the treatment of a specific condition, many experts recommend alternating between different strains or cycling through products that contain varying multiple strains.
The side effects of probiotics for dogs are usually temporary because the intestinal microbiome reverts to its pre-supplementation condition shortly after probiotics are discontinued. Because probiotics can be expensive and may be ineffective or incorrectly labeled, watch for improvements within a few weeks as a way of determining whether the supplement is making a difference.
At last! You have an opportunity to travel, go on vacation, or attend a fabulous “destination wedding.” But what about your best friend? Who will take care of your dog while you’re away from home?
In addition to friends, family, dog day care facilities, and boarding kennels, consider hiring a professional pet sitter. Pet sitters are substitute caregivers. They help dogs live their usual lives with as little disruption as possible. There are pet sitters who double as house sitters, staying in your home while you’re away; sitters who visit your home during the day to feed, water, and walk your dog; and sitters who care for your dog in their home.
Look for pet sitters with the help of recommendations from friends, veterinarians, or dog trainers; through newspaper or online ads or social media; or through the websites of professional organizations like the National Association of Professional Pet Sitters (petsitters.org) or Professional United Pet Sitters (petsits.com).
CREDENTIALS TO LOOK FOR IN A DOG SITTER
A professional pet sitter should:
Have a business license.
Be insured and bonded.
Provide references you can check such as from previous clients.
Offer a contract that clearly defines payment arrangements, cancellation policies, and daily responsibilities.
Discuss your pets’ needs in detail so that your pet sitter understands:
Your dog’s personality, normal appetite, activity level, interests, and daily routines.
All of the pets involved (dogs, cats, etc.)
When and what to feed your pets.
What exercises or play time to provide.
How and when to clean up pet messes or change litter boxes, if applicable.
How and when to administer pet medications, if needed.
Don’t assume that your pet sitter will do things the way you do them.
Questions to ask a dog sitter:
What experience does he or she have with dogs? This can include dog training or dog walking, work as a veterinary technician, or years of dog-sitting experience.
What experience does he or she have with your type of dog? This can include your dog’s age, breed, size, or background (recently adopted from a shelter, for example, or recovering from an illness or surgery). If the sitter has little experience with the needs of your type of dog but is willing to try, make sure you observe the sitter work with your dog before you sign a contract. If, for example, the sitter has trouble getting a harness and leash on your bouncy adolescent dog, or managing your dog-reactive dog on a walk, this probably isn’t the best dog/sitter match.
How does the pet sitter reward dogs? You’ll want to hire a sitter whose training methods match yours.
What is the sitter’s availability (days of the week, times of day, etc.)?
HOW MUCH TO PAY A DOG SITTER
Cost estimates may be posted at a pet sitter’s website. Fees vary, with pet sitters in large cities charging more than those in suburbs or rural areas. Most professional pet sitters nationwide charge an average of $25 for a 30-minute visit or more depending on your location, the number and type of pets you have, the length of each visit, and any additional services needed. Someone hired as a house sitter (rather than pet sitter) while you’re away may be able to care for your pets for an added fee.
Typical pet-sitting rates for one dog average:
$25 per half-hour visit
$20 to $40 per day
$40 to $85 per night
$250 to $375 per week
Expect additional fees for multiple pets, holidays, bathing, or special requirements, such as for puppies or dogs who need extra care, taking the dog to veterinary or grooming appointments, or dealing with behavioral issues that require extra effort or experience. Add $5 per visit for holidays or for dogs who need extra attention, such as young puppies.
Dog sitters trained in pet CPR and first aid may charge more. Tips of 15% to 20% of the total bill are appropriate and appreciated.
Overnight or 24/7 stays can be expensive, but there are benefits to having a responsible person in your home while you’re away. Your home remains occupied, your pets have company throughout the night, and someone is on hand in case of emergency or illness. A pet sitter who doubles as a house sitter can bring in the mail, water the lawn and houseplants, check windows and doors for security, and maintain a visible presence in your home, which helps deter break-ins.
PREVENT DISASTERS
Search online for “dog sitter disaster” and you can find plenty: runaway and lost dogs, preventable injuries, property damage, unaddressed illnesses, or sitters who simply didn’t show up.
Nightmares go the other way, too. Pet sitters have been prevented from entering a house because a duplicate key didn’t work (no one tested it before giving it to the dog walker), or a security code was changed, or a lock box was hidden too well or frozen shut. A neighbor with a key might let the dog out without telling the dog sitter, or the neighbor may not know a dog sitter is coming and assume that someone is breaking into the house. If you know your neighbors, be sure to inform them that a pet sitter will be visiting.
To avoid misunderstandings and prevent disasters:
Make a checklist of daily activities and responsibilities. This includes information about food (where it is, how much and when to feed, and what foods or treats to avoid).
Write detailed instructions based on your checklist, but focus on the most important points. Multiple pages of instructions may be skipped over or ignored. Ask a friend to read your list for clarity.
Leave emergency phone numbers for your veterinarian, a friend, or family member who lives close by, and secondary contact information for you (such as the number of the place where you will be staying).
Include in your checklist any information that your pet sitter should know, such as how and when to administer prescription medicine. Explain any challenging behaviors your dog has to be sure the sitter can deal with them, such as reactive or aggressive behavior; extreme shyness; or a fear of men, children, or other dogs.
Explain where the dog’s leash, collar, harness, other equipment, or favorite toys are, how your dog behaves on walks, and how you motivate and reward your dog.
Add anything that will help your dog feel comfortable and relaxed while you’re away.
Review the checklist with your dog sitter to be sure your instructions are understood. At the same time, review the dog sitter’s contract to be sure you understand the sitter’s fee structure, payment methods, cancellation policy, and other details. Make an appointment and be willing to pay for this clarifying time; don’t try to do this right before you leave, with an Uber driver waiting outside. That’s how important instructions get missed!
HELP YOUR DOG ADJUST TO YOUR ABSENCE
To help your dog feel comfortable while you’re away, leave her alone for short periods and invite your pet sitter to stop by for meet-and-greet sessions. If your dog suffers from separation anxiety or other challenges, study the recommendations of leading dog trainers and address these issues with appropriate training methods long before you leave.
The more you plan before you go, the more you and your dog will enjoy your time apart.
If your dog has discharge from just one eye, you definitely need to look for a foreign object in or injury to that eye. Call your veterinarian: medication may be needed.
A weeping, oozing, gummy, or crusty discharge from one or both of your dog’s eyes might be nothing – a result of the eye’s natural cleansing process – or caused by allergies, infection, illness, or injury. How can you tell what’s normal and what requires veterinary attention?
In a nutshell, if your dog is squinting, blinking, pawing or rubbing at the eyes, or if you see an excessive or bloody discharge, or if just one eye is affected with symptoms like these, your dog may have an eye injury, infection, or damage that needs a veterinarian’s expertise.
CRUSTY EYE DISCHARGE
A crusty discharge is a familiar symptom caused by dried tears, natural oils, dead cells, dust, or mucus. The discharge is often clear or reddish brown and appears in the morning or after a long nap. If it’s consistent from day to day and if your dog isn’t squinting, blinking, or rubbing his eyes, simply wipe the crust away with a warm, damp cloth, sterile gauze, cotton ball, tissue, or canine eye wipe grooming product.
A sterile saline solution from your local pharmacy is a safe preliminary treatment for most eye discharge problems, as is plain warm water. The application of human eyedrops is not recommended for dogs.
With clean hands and damp applicator, start at the inner corner of the eye and wipe gently, moving outward, using soft strokes. Don’t rub directly over the eyeball. Use a separate gauze or cotton ball for the other eye. Clean the eyes daily or as needed. If the crusty discharge is excessive, take a picture and contact your veterinarian.
WATERY EYES
Excessive eye watering, called epiphora, may be caused by allergies, exposure to irritants such as pollen in the eye, rolled-in eyelashes (called entropion), corneal wounds, blocked tear ducts, or increased eye pressure (glaucoma). Mild tearing is not a medical emergency and observing the eyes for a few days while keeping the area dry with a soft cloth is a sensible strategy. If the eyes continue to water, become red and painful, or develop other kinds of discharge, see your veterinarian.
GUMMY, MUCUS EYE DISCHARGE
Gummy, sticky mucus that makes the eyelids stick together can be a symptom of keratoconjunctivitis sicca (KCS) or “dry eye,” an auto-immune disorder that interferes with tear production and results in red, painful eyes or open sores.
Veterinarians use the simple, inexpensive Schirmer Tear Test to differentiate KCS from other conditions that produce eye mucus. It’s important to know what to look for with this condition, since it’s fairly common, very uncomfortable for the dog, and can lead to blindness.
Artificial tears and immune-suppressing drugs like tacrolimus or cyclosporine are often prescribed, and when those treatments fail, surgery is an option. An ongoing gummy, sticky discharge requires medical attention.
COLORED EYE DISCHARGE
A pink or red eye discharge that gets its color from blood can be caused by a recent injury. Some research has shown a connection between the yeast Malassezia pachydermatis and corneal ulcers, which can cause reddish tears. See your veterinarian for this symptom.
A green or yellow eye discharge may come from an eye infection, especially if the eyes look red and appear painful, or the cause may be conjunctivitis, an inflammation of the lining of your dog’s eye. Conjunctivitis can be caused by allergies, injury, tear duct problems, dry eye, birth defects, and even distemper or tumors.
If the eyes are red and the dog blinks frequently, squints, paws at her eyes, or keeps her eyes closed, see your veterinarian. Treatment may include removing an irritant; applying pain medication; treating infection with antibiotics and saline washes; administering antihistamines for allergies; or performing surgery to repair birth defects or tear duct problems.
Chihuahuas and other breeds with slightly bulgy eyes often suffer from excessive tearing and tear stains, as their tear ducts have to work overtime to keep their eyes lubricated. Keep track of what’s normal for your dog, and investigate if the tears or stains increase.
Tear stains at the inner corners of the eye develop because porphyrin, a pigment in tears, turns reddish brown when exposed to air. Tear stains are sometimes called Poodle stains because they are so obvious on the faces of small, light-coated dogs. If the eyes are otherwise healthy, tear stains are a cosmetic rather than medical problem.
To minimize stains, wipe the eyes with a damp cloth or canine eye-cleaning solution; keep the area dry with a soft cloth or tissue; try a grooming product that reduces tear staining; and keep hair around the eyes trimmed short. Schedule an eye exam if the staining increases, its appearance changes, or your dog’s eyes become red and painful.
Flat-faced Bulldogs, Boxers, Pekingese, and Pugs have shallower eye sockets and more protruding eyes than other breeds; the increased exposure to the air means the eyes require more tears to keep them lubricated. Another problem these dogs can display are inwardly rolled eyelids, which can cause lash irritation, or the lids don’t close fully, which may require corrective surgery.
Breeds with loose facial skin (including Saint Bernards, Bloodhounds, Cocker Spaniels, Beagles, and some terriers) may have eyelids that roll outward or have “cherry eye,” which occurs when an eyelid gland falls out of position. Surgery may be needed for those conditions, although antibiotics and steroids are a common first treatment.
HOW TO GIVE A DOG EYE DROPS
If your dog’s eyes need more than a gentle wipe with saline or warm water, learn how to administer eye drops or ointments efficiently.
Clear debris from around the eyes and dry the area with a clean, soft cloth.
To apply eye drops, tilt the dog’s head back slightly. Rest a hand on your dog’s head to keep the applicator from accidentally hitting the dog’s eye, and squeeze drops into the upper part of the eye.
To apply ointment, rest your hand on the dog’s head, pull the dog’s lower eyelid down to create a pocket, then squeeze a ribbon of ointment inside the lower lid.
Your veterinarian can show you how to administer eye medication, as can online veterinary videos, and a friend or groomer may be able to help.
Follow instructions for frequency and quantity of applications.
To catch problems early, check your dog’s eyes every day so you’ll notice unusual symptoms when they’re easiest to treat. Keep the eye area as clean and dry as possible. If your dog’s symptoms are unusual, fail to improve, or get worse, call your veterinarian.
Tear-stain products
Grooming products that treat tear stains can be drops, powders, ointments, nutritional supplements, and even combs. A tear-stain comb (petpost.us) resembles a flea comb with narrower teeth that gently remove debris from fine hair near the eye.
Some tear-stain products contain eyebright, bilberry, dandelion, German chamomile, or other traditional herbal eye treatments.
Keeping hair around the eyes and nose as short as possible and keeping the face clean and dry are essential first steps. Contact lens solution can be used to clean around the eyes (not applied to the eyes) because its boric acid oxidizes the iron in porphyrins, lightening the color of tear stains.
Some probiotics are said to treat tear stains, though that use has not been proven. Still, experimenting with nutritional supplements and improving the quality of your dog’s diet may be helpful.
Search online for tear-stain grooming products, compare ingredients, study reviews, or check with your veterinarian or groomer to help find a treatment that will help your dog.
Dogs who are suffering from painful, chronic conditions (such as severe arthritis or bone cancer) despite already receiving other medications for pain, may finally find relief when amantadine is added to their palliative care regimen.
Amantadine is a medication that was initially used as an antiviral agent in humans, but it is gaining popularity for its contribution to chronic pain management in both human and veterinary medicine.
You may wonder why you haven’t heard of this medication before, but unless your dog has suffered from long-standing, severe pain, poorly managed by traditional pain relievers, there’s no reason you would have. Amantadine is generally reserved for these situations.
Amantadine is an N-Methyl-D-aspartate (NMDA) receptor antagonist. NMDA receptors are heavily involved with the transmission of pain impulses from nerve to nerve, especially in chronic pain situations. When a neurotransmitter attaches to NMDA receptors, pain perception is amplified. When the receptors are blocked by amantadine, the neurotransmitter cannot attach and pain perception is diminished. It’s as simple as that.
Amantadine is not useful for acute (sudden) severe pain, such as pain caused by a broken bone or post-operative pain, because the NMDA receptors are not a big player in these situations. Amantadine actually works best when pain is already present, which is why it is used most frequently in chronic pain situations when additional relief is needed.
Amantadine does not work well as a stand-alone pain reliever. A perfect candidate for amantadine might be a dog suffering from arthritis pain who is already being given a nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory drug (NSAID), gabapentin, joint supplements, and maybe even an opioid pain reliever but still needs more relief.
How to Use Amantadine for Dogs
Amantadine works best when dosed twice a day. It takes a couple of weeks to break the chronic pain cycle, so be sure to give it some time before deciding whether it’s helping or not.
Amantadine is excreted by the kidneys, so caution is recommended when given to dogs with kidney disease. Please note that “caution” doesn’t mean you can’t or shouldn’t use it. It just means you and your veterinarian need to be careful and monitor kidney function. Your veterinarian may prescribe a lower dose out of caution.
There are some important drug interactions to consider. Use of amantadine with antihistamines (such as Benadryl) can exacerbate the anticholinergic effects of both drugs, which include dry mouth (expressed with excessive thirst and excessive lip smacking), difficulty urinating, and rapid heart rate. The same goes for clomipramine (Clomicalm), an anti-anxiety medication.
The use of amantadine with tramadol, a common pain medication for dogs, may increase the risk of seizures. If your dog is already on tramadol, be sure to discuss this risk with your veterinarian before adding amantadine.
Amantadine is frequently used in pain management and palliative care protocols for osteosarcoma (bone cancer), an excruciatingly painful condition in dogs. It is not uncommon for these dogs to receive maximum doses of an NSAID, gabapentin or pregabalin, the powerful opioid oxycodone, and amantadine in an effort to maintain a good quality of life for as long as possible.
Amantadine Side Effects
Amantadine side effects, if they are going to happen, usually occur early on and typically resolve with time. Possible side effects of amantadine for dogs include agitation, restlessness, flatulence, and diarrhea.
Hopefully, as the benefits of amantadine become more widely known, we will see it prescribed more for other common, chronic, painful conditions, such as severe arthritis in aging dogs. Better pain management means happier, healthier, longer-lived dogs.
Giant-breed dogs can be a hoot. It’s fun to see them in cars, looking for all the world like bears being taken for a drive. It’s lovely to witness a well-mannered Great Dane, St. Bernard, or Great Pyrenees walking nicely on a leash and greeting admiring passers-by in a calm, friendly fashion. But it needs to be said that sometimes, those really big dogs can pose some really big behavior challenges for their owners.
ISSUES OF SIZE WITH GIANT DOG BREEDS
Some of the problems they can present to their family members are simply related to their extraordinary size. If you’re seated at the dinner table and your Irish Wolfhound strolls by, his head may pass over your plate even if he’s not trying to counter surf. You could purchase an extra-tall dining room table with bar stools for chairs or consider other management solutions (baby gates, mat training, crates, tethers) just to keep the hound drool out of your dumplings.
Sometimes a giant dog’s mere presence can trigger other dogs. Smaller dogs can be intimidated by the size and bulk of a 100- to 200-pound dog. Even if the big guy has no ill intent, fights can erupt as a result of a smaller dog’s stress. Imagine the logistics of breaking up a dog fight if one of the participants weighs 100-plus pounds!
While many of the big dogs (although not all) are truly gentle giants and get along well with other dogs, there doesn’t even need to be conflict for an injury to occur – a misstep of 200 pounds of dog onto an 8-pound Pomeranian (or a small child!) can cause significant bruising and/or broken bones. Caretakers of giant dogs must use common sense and management when selecting canine and human playmates for their oversized canine family members.
WITH GREAT SIZE COMES GREAT RESPONSIBILITY
Whether you already have one or are thinking of adopting, living with a dog who weighs as much as or more than you and towers over your head when standing on his hind legs, means that it’s incumbent on you to make sure the dog is super well-socialized and well-trained.
The fact that these dogs have the potential to cause more harm than smaller dogs – whether by just pulling their owner off their feet or knocking someone over or through an act of actual aggression – means that their owners bear more responsibility to do everything in their power to help their dogs become safe members of their community.
It’s important for all puppies to begin their training and socialization programs starting at the age of 8 weeks – but this is critical for the giant breeds. You really want them to learn polite leash walking and have a foundation of good manners before they are big and strong enough to overpower you (which may come as early as 6 or 7 months, depending on your size). They must be well socialized before they start lunging at visitors and other dogs and can drag you to the target of their playful, reactive, or aggressive behavior.
Your first step? Get thee to a good force-free puppy kindergarten class while your pup is still small – starting at 8 weeks.
BIG DOG TRAINING BASICS
Lots of dogs fail to receive proper socialization and training when they are young and get surrendered to shelters when their fearful, reactive, and/or outright aggressive behaviors become more than their owners can handle. And while it’s absolutely unfair to the dogs, it’s a grim fact that few shelters are willing to work to rehabilitate and adopt giant dogs who exhibit aggressive behavior; their liability is just too great. Keep this in mind and do everything you can to super-socialize and train your large dog.
The giant breeds learn exactly the same way other dogs do: Behaviors that are reinforced repeat and increase, and behaviors that don’t get reinforced will go away (extinguish). Remember that not all reinforcement comes from humans; inadvertent environmental reinforcement works quite well to encourage your dog to persist with unwanted behaviors.
So, for example, if you left food on the counter and your giant dog helped himself to it, he was reinforced for the behavior of looking for and helping himself to food from the counter and will surely do it again. Hence the importance of assiduous management, especially for a dog who can casually snag a thawing turkey off the counter without lifting his paws off the floor!
Basic good manners are important for all dogs. There are some, however, that can be particularly useful for the oversized canine:
Polite leash walking. This is mandatory; you must be able to control your giant dog. The sooner you install good leash manners, the more he can accompany you places, engage in various activities, and enjoy a full and enriched life. If you cannot control him on leash, he’ll be left home a lot. If and when you do take him on outings, he’s likely to get himself (and you!) into trouble. (For training tips, see “Polite Leash Walking,” September 2021.)
Appropriate greeting. Few people appreciate having a big dog barge into their face, covering them and their clothes with slimy spit. Friends will be happier about interacting with yours if he comes up to them and sits politely. (See “How to Teach Your Dog to Greet Nicely,” September 2018.)
Mat training. A handy behavior for many dogs, mat training is an even more vitally important tool to manage your giant dog’s imposing presence. Family members and visitors can relax knowing that your dog will stay politely parked on his mat while you dine and socialize. (See “Mat Training Tips,” January 2020.)
Walk away. For this behavior, you teach your dog to do a 180-degree turn and move quickly in the other direction. This “emergency U-turn” behavior can help you and your dog avoid some serious scrapes. There may come a time in your dog’s life where he is so aroused that normal good manners fail. “Walk Away” can be the most useful cue in your repertoire to help your big guy move quickly and willingly away from potential trouble. (See “How to Teach Your Dog to Just Walk Away,” September 2018.)
BIG DOG GROOMING ETIQUETTE
Last, but by no means least, your plus-size pal must be comfortable with necessary husbandry procedures: vet exams, nail trimming, grooming, etc. No animal care professional looks forward to the confrontation with their four-legged clients, and the bigger the dog, the harder – and more dangerous – it can be to work with an unwilling or uncooperative subject.
Good puppy socialization classes include fun games to help your big-dog-to-be get comfortable with ear inspections, dental exams, paw handling, nail trimming, and all the other procedures and interactions that are an inevitable part of a dog’s life. A good veterinary-care provider will be on board with cooperative care procedures. And a good force-free professional can help you teach your dog invaluable consent husbandry procedures such as the Bucket Game. While you’re at it, don’t forget the muzzle training. (See “Cooperative Care: Giving Your Dog Choice and Control,” February 2021, and “Dog Muzzles Are Useful Tools When You Use Them Right,” February 2019.)
GO BIG!
The behavior and training challenges you face with your big dog are the same ones we see with smaller dogs. Due to their size, however, extra-big dogs can present these challenges in an extra-big way; hence the importance of teaching appropriate behaviors and addressing behavioral challenges as soon as possible. If you already have one of these plus-size dogs or you intend to adopt one in the future, plan to go big with your training, management, and behavior plans, too.
The Acme 211.5 whistle is fixed-pitch and a favorite of many retriever trainers. You can hear sound clips of all Acme’s whistles at acmewhistles.ca and acmewhistles-usa.com.
Dog whistles have long been used for dog training. Working retrievers and herding dogs are often trained to respond to whistle cues because the sound of a whistle carries farther than the human voice and can be easier to hear in inclement weather – even the sound of a so-called “silent whistle.” How can that be?
The sound carries so far because the silent whistle, also known as a dog whistle or “Galton’s Whistle,” isn’t silent at all; it’s just that humans can’t hear it. Invented in 1876 by Sir Francis Galton as a tool to help test the upper limits of audible sound on humans, the dog whistle emits a sound measuring about 35,000 Hz, well beyond the average range of 20 to 20,000 Hz that is detectable by the human ear.
Do dog whistles hurt dogs’ ears? For most dogs, a 35,000 Hz dog whistle will be perfectly audible; dogs can hear high-pitched sounds up to 65,000 Hz. Researchers suggest the ability to hear higher frequencies stems from the modern dog’s ancestors’ need to hear the high-pitched squeaks of their prey, including mice and other rodents. Plus, a dog’s ear has 18 muscles (compared to six in a human ear) and a longer ear canal, giving them the ability to tilt and twitch their way to fine-tuning the sounds that interest them.
SELECTING A DOG WHISTLE
Keep in mind that, initially, the sound of any whistle is just noise. While the first few blasts may cause your dog to come to you, that’s just curiosity, not a magical magnetic pull. It’s up to you to make the sound meaningful to your dog.
The high-pitched sound of a dog whistle can be distressing to some dogs. Research suggests using a high-pitched whistle won’t hurt your dog – unless you blow it too close to her ear – but something can be distressing without causing physical pain. If your dog looks uncomfortable when you blow the whistle, try another one. Acme Whistles makes a wide variety of dog-training whistles.
Many “silent” dog whistles are adjustable, so be sure to read the instructions and adjust the whistle to the pitch that quickly orients your dog to you. You can also purchase a fixed-pitch whistle, such as the Acme 211.5 whistle commonly used by retriever trainers. Pay attention to your dog’s body language. You want to see eager curiosity, not concern.
If your dog is comfortable with the whistle, decide what blast pattern you want to use as a cue for which behavior. For example, you may want your recall cue to be three short toots on the whistle. Give the new recall cue (three short toots), and, if your dog looks at and/or comes toward you, immediately mark the behavior with the click of a clicker or a verbal marker such as the word “Yes!” and give your dog a couple of high-value treats.
If you give your new cue and your dog doesn’t immediately turn or come toward you, follow the new cue with your previous cue for the same behavior and reward him when he comes to you. (So, three toots, pause for a second or two, give your old cue, mark the behavior, and deliver treats.) Soon, your dog should realize that the three toots will be followed by his old recall cue and, in anticipation, he should begin turning and coming toward you as soon as he hears the new cue. At that point, you can stop using the old cue after the new one.
Maybe your home lacks a fenced-in yard. Or maybe it doesn’t, but you want to protect its lush landscaping. Or maybe your dog needs a quiet place to rest while you entertain al fresco. Or you need a safe spot for your dog while you run an errand and he’s not ready to be loose in the house – but you want him to have more space than contained in a crate.
When used responsibly, an outdoor dog kennel can be used similar to a crate – as a safe space for a dog to relax when you’re not able to appropriately supervise her. Modernoutdoor dog kennels (also known as “outdoor dog runs”) come in a variety of customizable sizes, materials, and designs to complement any taste or need.
When might you use an outdoor dog kennel? There are several situations where a kennel can be beneficial:
To safely give dogs some outdoor time when a fenced yard is not available. (In this case, “safe” means your home is safe from any destructive canine activities and your dog is safe from any potential animal intruders.)
When you’re unable to directly supervise a dog in outdoor situations where lack of supervision might lead to unwanted outcomes (such as fence-fighting, digging up the landscaping, chasing the family cat, etc.).
To contain escape-artist dogs left outside when you’re not home. To help teach dogs to not just calmly accept but also enjoy time away from their owners.
CHOOSING AN OUTSIDE DOG KENNEL
Pre-fabricated kennels come in a variety of shapes and sizes, and custom kennels, as the name suggests, can be designed to accommodate almost any needs or wants. Most are designed and sold in a modular form, with a minimum of panels that are clamped together to form a small-sized enclosure, with additional panels (sold separately) that can be added to make the enclosure larger.
Because an outdoor kennel should only be used as temporary accommodation, it need not provide a vast abundance of space. Consider the size of the dog and the number of dogs to be contained within the outdoor dog kennel, and make sure the enclosure is large enough to allow space for relieving away from where your dog is likely to rest.
Square enclosures measuring 10 feet by 10 feet work well for even large-breed dogs. If containing more than one medium- to large-breed dog, consider an enclosure that’s at least twice as long as it is wide. If your environment and budget can support a larger enclosure, that’s great.
Carefully consider your dog’s temperament and athletic ability and make sure the panels are tall enough to prevent an escape. Or, better yet, look for an enclosure that can accommodate a top panel or cover, especially if you have one of those talented, determined climbers.
CREATING A SAFE AND COMFORTABLE KENNEL ENVIRONMENT
Consider these key points when installing an outdoor dog kennel:
Location, location, location. Choose an area of the yard free from distractions that might frustrate your dog. If your dog is prone to running along your shared fence line when neighbor dogs are present, avoid installing the dog kennel in that area. If watching the family enjoying the pool whips your dog into a frenzy, aim to locate the dog kennel out of view of the pool. Ideally, your dog will be relaxed – not just contained – when in the outdoor kennel.
Protection from elements. Avoid installing the outdoor dog kennel in areas where there is no shade, or where your dog would be exposed to a relentless wind.
Install within reach of a water source. It’s important to keep your dog’s outdoor kennel clean, and you’ll want easy access to a hose.
When it comes to designing your outdoor dog kennel flooring, there are several options to choose from:
Utilize the existing ground covering. The existing dirt or grass in your yard may be sufficient. However, if your dog is a digger – who may experiment with digging out of the enclosure – you’ll need to dig-proof the perimeter of the kennel. This can often be accomplished by lining the perimeter with cinderblocks or pavers, large rocks, or by attaching a strip of wire or plastic snow fencing to the bottom of the enclosure and burying the fencing underground.
Decomposed granite or pea gravel. This is often recommended over gravel, stone, or sand as it’s softer on the pads and doesn’t hold as much heat in hot weather.
Concrete. Concrete is a fan favorite among kennel professionals for its ease of cleaning and sanitization. If installing a concrete slab, consider pouring the concrete on a slight slope to promote proper drainage.
Artificial turf. Many dog owners like artificial turf because, unlike living grass, it doesn’t die and become discolored from urine. However, in warm climates, unless it’s completely shaded, artificial turf can become hot to the touch, and it can require extra care to prevent and manage odors in areas of frequent elimination.
ACCESSORIZE FOR MAXIMUM COMFORT
It’s important to outfit your outdoor dog kennel with the proper accessories to keep your dog safe and comfortable:
Access to plenty of fresh water. Always have plenty of water available. If your dog is likely to spill a bowl of water, consider hanging a large stainless steel water bucket. If a water spigot is accessible, consider installing a dog faucet device like the Lixit for easy access to constantly fresh water. (Note: Until you know your dog is proficient at using the Lixit, be sure to provide a secondary water source that’s more familiar – such as a large bowl or bucket.)
Elevated resting area. An elevated cot or padded platform helps keep your dog cool in warm weather by allowing air to circulate below him. It can also keep him clean and help prevent elbow callouses that sometimes form similar to pressure sores. Such sores are more common on larger and older dogs who spend more time lounging on hard surfaces such as tile floors or concrete spaces.
Appropriate shade and shelter. Use well-placed, breathable shade fabric to help keep the area cool and protect your dog from excessive exposure to the sun’s ultraviolet rays. Be sure to use breathable materials that allow sufficient airflow. Consider adding a doghouse as an even quieter spot to catch a nap or as protection from unexpected inclement weather.
Enrichment activities. Outfit your dog’s outdoor kennel with fun and interesting things to do. A child’s wading pool can be the source of cooling water fun or filled with sand to create a digging pit. If your dog likes to tug, a rope toy can be affixed to a post along the kennel frame. Make plenty of toys and raw, meaty bones or food-stuffed toys available to your dog. For a real challenge, hang a food-stuffed toy (such as a Kong or Toppl) from the top of the dog kennel and encourage your dog to work the puzzle as it dangles.
TEACH YOUR DOG TO ENJOY KENNEL TIME
Teaching your dog to accept and enjoy time in an outdoor dog kennel is similar to teaching your dog to enjoy time in a crate. (See “Crate Training to Keep Your Dog Content,” WDJ October 2021.) Feeding meals and/or giving him chews and treat-stuffed toys in the outdoor kennel can quickly establish a positive association with being in the outdoor run – especially if that’s the only place he receives those special treats. You can also accompany your dog inside the kennel for some fun play. Make initial training sessions short and fun.
Just as with crates, don’t use time in the kennel as a “time out” location or punishment. It’s important to preserve your dog’s positive association with short-term confinement. And most importantly, be sure not to overuse the outdoor kennel. Dogs are family, and they deserve to spend as much of their relatively short lives as possible in the company of their beloved humans.
It might come as a shock when your sweet fluff of a baby dog suddenly and fiercely stakes a claim to the treats that you’ve been tossing to your adult dogs. Your dogs have always shared quite nicely with each other, and until recently, the puppy has, too. So why is he suddenly resource-guarding from his dog friends? And what can you do about it?
First, don’t panic. Resource-guarding is a natural, normal canine behavior. Sometimes referred to as “possession aggression,” resource-guarding is when a dog sends body-language signals to another dog (or human) that he is not willing to share whatever valuable item (food, treats, toy) he possesses or desires possession of.
Ideally, the guarding dog sends only low-level signals to his competitor, such as a hard stare, a freeze, hovering over the desired object, a growl, or a snarl. These appropriate, social-communication signals are intended to prevent conflict by deterring the competitor from approaching – and this often works! If, however, the target of this communication ignores the signals and continues to approach – or offers offensive social signals in return – the guarder may feel forced to escalate the intensity of his signals and may snap, lunge, or engage in actual aggressive contact (a fight).
Or, unfortunately, sometimes a guarder may launch at his perceived competitor without giving any warning, which deprives the “offending party” of the opportunity to move away. This can happen for several reasons:
The resource guarding dog has had prior conflicts that have increased his stress level about resources to a point where he doesn’t give warnings.
The resource guarding dog has been punished by his owner for giving aggressive-looking or -sounding warnings (which suppresses the behavior, but does nothing to change how covetous and stressed the guarder feels).
The guarding puppy or dog has never learned appropriate social skills for communicating at a lower intensity.
Resource Guarding in Dogs is Natural, But Not Desirable
Even very young puppies may exhibit resource guarding behavior, often as they compete for a spot at their mother’s milk bar – and it rarely escalates to serious aggression. In fact, they’re learning valuable social skills! As your pup matures, it’s natural for him to feel his way through new social situations, including laying claim to mutually desired resources. It may just take a few interactions for your pup to sort out his communications with your other canine family members over toys, chews, or treats on the floor.
But just because resource guarding in dogs is a natural behavior doesn’t mean you shouldn’t do something about it. Behaviors that are reinforced persist and increase. As with all undesirable behaviors, the sooner you address it, the easier it is to manage and modify. Every time your pup successfully guards, the behavior is reinforced by his success, which increases the likelihood that he will do it again, perhaps with increasing intensity.
In the wild, resource-guarding is an important survival strategy. In your home, not so much. If you notice things settling down after a couple of minor resource-related interactions, it probably means your dogs have sorted things out. If the scuffles persist, you definitely need to intervene.
How to Manage Resource Guarding in Dogs
Every good behavior-modification program starts with management. Your management protocols will depend on when and how your pup manifests his guarding.
Starting immediately, be extra observant of your puppy’s behavior, and make a list of those times you see him exhibiting even very mild tension in the presence of valuable resources. Then decide what you can do to manage those particular situations.
Your management solution will depend – at least in part – on the severity of your dog’s guarding behavior, which can range from mild to serious. See the table on the next page, which shows how your management response would differ in five different situations, depending on whether your pup’s guarding behavior is mild, moderate, or serious.
How to Modify Resource-Guarding Behavior
As the intensity of your pup’s guarding behavior increases, so do your behavior-modification challenges.
Mild guarding may resolve on its own as your puppy learns better social skills, especially if you take appropriate management measures to prevent escalation of tension during this learning time. You may also choose to utilize behavior-modification protocols, though these are more crucial when the intensity of the pup’s guarding increases. Moderate guarding can often be resolved with good management and the use of modification protocols. One highly useful tool is called “Constructional Aggression Treatment (CAT),” wherein your puppy learns that relaxed body language makes the other dog move away (see sidebar for links to past WDJ articles about CAT).
Counter-conditioning and desensitization (CC&D) exercises teach your pup that the proximity of another dog is not a threat to his resources, but rather makes more good stuff happen.
Our past articles (listed in the sidebar) detail step-by-step instructions, but in short, you start with another dog at a distance that keeps your pup sub-threshold – where your pup is aware of but not tense about the other dog – and you feed your pup high-value treats. The goal is to change how he feels about the sight, and eventually, the proximity of another dog near him and whatever he’s guarding from negative to positive; ideally, he learns to see the advance of another dog as a predictor of good things.
Another option is simple habituation: Your pup simply gets used to the presence of another dog (at a sub-threshold distance, without you feeding him treats) and realizes that the other dog is not a threat to his resources.
If you are familiar with these procedures and how to use them, you may be able to accomplish your modification goals without the assistance of a professional for a pup with moderate guarding behaviors.
The same protocols can be used to modify serious guarding behavior, though it will likely take longer and require an even greater commitment to doing the work. I strongly suggest that you utilize the services of a qualified, experienced force-free professional if your pup is exhibiting serious guarding. Help from this sort of professional would also be recommended even for a pup whose guarding behavior is only at the “moderate” level if you are not already knowledgeable about and proficient at implementing these behavior-modification protocols.
Resource Guarding Behavior Modification is Not Just for Puppies
These management and behavior-modification recommendations are not restricted to just puppies. Adult dog-to-dog guarding can be even more serious and challenging to modify than guarding in puppies, especially since the adult guarder has had more time to practice and be reinforced for the behavior.
Whether you’re dealing with puppy or adult dog-to-dog guarding, the more successfully you manage the guarder and his environment while working on modifying the behavior, the greater your likelihood of restoring harmony to your household. Get started today!
Past WDJ Articles For More Information
ARTICLES ON CAT
A proven protocol for teaching dogs to relax in the presence of other dogs.
Often, our articles about CC&D are about reducing a dog’s fear or anxiety; in this case, we are using CC&D to reduce his desire to guard valued space or possessions.
Management strategies for five resource-guarding scenarios at three levels of intensity
Mild Guarding
Moderate Guarding
Serious Guarding
What It Looks Like
You see some tension in your puppy’s face and body, but it doesn’t escalate to anything serious. There are occasional hard warning stares and either slow body movement or brief freezes; all of these dissipate quickly as soon as the other dog looks away or moves away, and after the coveted item or opportunity is gone.
There is a greater level of tension, including air-snaps and growls, body contact, perhaps some tooth contact but no broken skin. Some tension remains even when the other dog moves away.
Guarding has escalated to outright aggression, including minor to significant injury to dogs as a result of altercations over resources. There may be ongoing tension between the dogs and the pup stemming from past trauma, even when resources aren’t present. If guarding aggression cannot be reliably predicted, apply a strict no-interaction management plan unless and until your modification program has been successfully implemented.
How to Manage Mealtimes
If your pup is body-blocking at the food bowl, feed your dogs far enough apart that they aren’t in each other’s dining space. Prevent the other dogs from approaching the puppy while he is eating.
If the puppy snaps and snarls at other dogs in proximity to his food bowl and shows tension even when your other dogs are at a distance, feed the dogs in separate rooms.
If your pup has launched at other dogs in the distant presence of his food bowl, even when it is empty, feed dogs in separate rooms. Pick up food bowls and put them away when meals are done before allowing dogs to mingle.
How to Manage Treat-Feeding
If your pup stands over the mutually desired treats and gobbles them down while glaring menacingly at the other dog(s), hand-feed treats to your dogs one at a time rather than tossing them randomly on the floor, and/or toss treats individually to specific dogs, far enough apart that there’s no competition for them.
If your pup gives the other dogs hard stares when treats are hand-fed and tries to claim all treats even when they are tossed in different direction, have your dogs wait a distance apart from each other; walk to them to hand feed treats individually. Use reinforcers other than treats – praise, scratching in a favorite location (under the chin, behind ears).
If the puppy makes aggressive contact with other dogs when treats are fed in his presence, do not feed treats at all when other dogs are present. Use reinforcers other than treats (such as praise and petting). If use of alternative reinforcers still creates tension, avoid reinforcement when other dogs are nearby unless puppy is separated from others by a baby gate or exercise pen.
How to Manage Around Toys
If your pup stands over the toy with tense body language that de-escalates quickly when your other dogs move away, cheerfully invite the other dogs away when the puppy has a particularly desirable toy.
If incidents of snapping and snarling have occasionally occurred in toy disputes, usually resolving quickly when the other dogs move away, identify the toys or types of toys most likely to cause conflict and remove those from the play box. Allow the pup to play with these most-desirable toys only when he is segregated from the other dogs. Alternatively, set up an exercise pen for the puppy to stay in when he’s playing with toys.
If disputes over toys has resulted in injury to any of your dogs, you should make sure that no toys are available, ever, when your puppy is present in the company of other dogs.
How to Manage Around Valuable Space
If your puppy moves quickly to claim valuable space (blocking hallways, doorways, beds, or crates), ask him to wait at a safe distance while you invite the other dogs through tight quarters. Place beds where there is ample room for other dogs to pass by. Assign each dog his own bed and/or crate and prevent sharing.
If your pup enforces his claim to valuable space with hard stares, growls, snaps, and/or snarls, put him behind a door or baby gate while the other dogs pass through tight quarters. Assign each dog his own bed and/or crate and prevent sharing. Put the puppy’s bed in an exercise pen to minimize other dogs’ access to it and give him protected access as desired.
If your puppy claims valuable space (hallways, doorways, beds, crates) with willingness to aggress, resulting in physical contact and injury, put him behind a door or baby gate while the other dogs pass through tight quarters. Make sure his bed is not available in common areas.
How to Manage Proximity to Humans
If your pup body-blocks your other dogs to gain proximity to you, move to an open area where the dogs can approach and be near you on several sides, ideally giving everyone 360-degree access. Encourage the pup to stay on one side while allowing the others access from the other sides.
If your puppy uses body blocking, snaps, and snarls to claim proximity to you, give him ample time and attention when other dogs are outside or shut in another room. Restrict his access to you when other dogs are present by using a tether or exercise pen.
If your puppy has inflicted injury on other dogs who approach when he is near you, give him time and attention only when other dogs are outside or shut in another room. Restrict his access to you when other dogs are present using a tether or exercise pen.
Not one but two friends said goodbye to their beloved senior dogs in the past week. I read their tributes to their beautiful dogs and looked through all the photos of the good times they had together, and wiped copious tears away. These deaths make me hyperconscious of the limited time that I have left with my senior dog, Otto.
If he makes it to November, he’ll be 15 years old. His back legs are getting weaker, and though he can still jump into my car (it’s low, and he jumps onto the floor of the back seat, then climbs onto the seat), he sometimes catches a toe when he goes up the two stairs leading to our back deck and then two more that lead to the kitchen door and his back end collapses for a moment. I try not to fuss when I help him up; he always looks embarrassed when this happens.
He doesn’t trot much anymore; his gaits include a fairly gimpy walk and a sort of swinging lope that he uses as a replacement for his formerly jaunty trot – but he also still roars at the sight of any United States postal vehicles and races to and then down the fence line to chase said vehicles out of sight. He can’t resist! But he pays a price for this after the adrenaline wears off; he retires to his sandbox and naps deeply in the cool sand afterward.
He has always been good about being groomed, but he loves being brushed now – even with a Furminator, which I have to use to try to get rid of his still-shedding thick winter coat. But I have to be careful as I brush his sides and flanks, as he has countless egg-shaped lipomas of various sizes now. They don’t cause any pain, but it can’t be good to put any sort of pressure on them!
For almost a year now, he exhibits signs of dementia at night. He pants and paces and seems confused and anxious. A few months ago, at the suggestion of his team of vets, in addition to his arthritis med and gabapentin, we tried a prescription medicine for dementia. Within days, he had fountaining diarrhea, and we had to stop the dementia medicine. Following that, even though I bathed his nether end again and again, he started over-grooming the underside of his tail, where the liquid poop had gotten on it. He caused a nasty little lick granuloma, which required shaving the underside of his tail several times before it finally healed up, weeks later. I know it’s silly and not important, but it makes me so sad to see the skinny section of his now threadbare tail, which is usually a glorious flag, curving up and gently waving high in good spirits.
Until this past year, he’s always had nice breath and clean teeth. He was well past middle age when he needed his first dental, and he’s had several since then – but now, no vet wants to put him under anesthesia for a thorough dental, so his teeth are getting a little cruddy and his breath isn’t as fresh as it used to be. Fortunately, he’s good about tolerating brushing. We’re trying to hold the line!
He’s gotten ridiculous about food, hungrily and openly begging for whatever treats he thinks someone might give him, and lurking in the kitchen when we’re cooking. He no longer bothers to “sit” or “down” on cue, but stands, tail wagging and open-mouthed in anticipation when I’m giving cues to the other dogs. He knows he gets treats whenever the other dogs get treats, no “work” is required anymore.
But turn about is fair play; the other dogs have learned his medication schedule. Any time I get the can of wet food out of the refrigerator, they will jump up out of a deep sleep or game of tug to come and sit politely. They know that after I hide Otto’s meds in a “meatball” of pâté and he has taken the meatball from my hand, I will feed them a tiny bit of the tasty food as well.
I thank goodness that 7-month-old Boone doesn’t have high exercise needs. When Woody was his age, I used to have to take daily (sometimes twice daily) long, off-leash walks in our local wildlife area in order to keep him from jumping out of his skin. If we take Otto along, we can’t go very far before he’s tired – and I can’t bear his sad, uncomprehending stare if he doesn’t get to leave the house with me and the other dogs. I try to make it up to Boone with more play on the lawn and more hide-and-seek around the property. Happily, like many “youngest children,” he’s great about entertaining himself by chewing and tugging on our grandson’s swing (we have to make a new seat!) and playing tug all by himself with the leather leash we use to retrieve our grandson’s zip line (watch him do it here!).
It will be wonderful to get a good, full night’s sleep again someday, and to take long, guilt-free hikes with Woody and Boone – but I’m not in a rush. I keep trying to memorize the sweet hayfield aroma of Otto’s thick ruff and the feel of the one silky patch of hair he has on the very top of his head, right between his distinctive half-folded, tufted ears. Though my friends’ tributes to their beloved dogs make my heart hurt, I’m trying not to pre-grieve my vibrant, joyous, mischievous Otto of the past. I’m making every effort to just be here now with my beloved dog, one slightly stinky breath at a time.
