For your dog to learn nice leash manners, you have to communicate with him clearly, with consistent body-language signals he can understand. It takes practice! But the conversational payoff is so worth the time invested! Photo by fotografixx, Getty Images.
I occasionally teach a “leash manners” class at my friend’s dog-training center. The clients who sign up for this class do so because they are having trouble with their dogs on leash. Most of the dogs pull, some are somewhat reactive to other dogs when they are on leash, and some weave back and forth and run circles around their handlers and stop whenever they want to sniff or urine-mark. All the owners are frustrated with their dogs; that’s why they sign up for this class!
I start Week One with getting the owners to pay attention to how they hold their dogs’ leashes, what cues they give their dogs, and how they reinforce the behaviors they like – those moments where the dogs are walking nicely at their sides on a loose leash. In this first class, their hands are all over the place, they give absolutely no cues (unless you consider “NO! NO! STOP it!” a cue), and the reinforcements are grudging at best – mostly because they are so irritated with their dogs that they don’t want to reinforce them for anything!
I almost always see a tiny amount of improvement in the Week Two class. The students are handling their leashes better, they sometimes use cues for “Let’s walk!” – and the dogs now realize that there is something in it for them; if they pay a modicum of attention to their handlers and they “check in” with their handlers occasionally, they can grab a treat. But these improvements are fleeting.
So this is when I give my speech about practicing. Training your dog to walk nicely on leash is a physical skill – and no physical skill gets better unless you practice it properly. No golf swing, no tennis serve, no skateboard trick, no piano playing – improves unless you practice the proper movements. And since dogs are essentially body-language experts, if we are giving them no signals or mixed signals, a mishmash of physical punishments and random reinforcements, our dogs decide we are not making sense and they tune us out as irrelevant. We have to be consistent, I tell them; we have to consistently ask them for the behaviors we want, consistently reinforce those behaviors, and consistently prevent the behaviors we don’t want. It takes practice, but if they practice with these goals foremost in mind, they will get it.
In this class, I also show them some new things, such as “emergency U-turns.” We can use these when we see something up ahead that’s sure to make our dogs go “over threshold,” tossing them into the deep end of the behavioral pool with only little floaties on. We turn this into a fun, engaging game that re-connects the dog and handler nicely. But mostly we practice: giving cues, offering reinforcement for the behavior we like, and managing the leash to prevent behavior we don’t want, without punishing jerks and yanks!
I can tell when they aren’t practicing. They often come back in Week Three and are doing about the same as (or perhaps worse than) they looked in Week Two. What happened?
My theory is that, after two classes, they discovered that there are no miracles. They aren’t going to learn some revolutionary thing they didn’t already know, some new trick that will transform their dog into an obedience champion overnight. Their dog is still pulling and they are still frustrated – so much so, that they haven’t hardly taken the dog out at all.
This is where the rubber meets the road. This is where I offer to show them, with their dog, how their dog can walk nicely on leash if their hands are quiet and consistent – firmly resisting the dog’s pulling without changing the leash length, neither allowing the dog to bungee-cord forward nor strong-arming them backward. Their dog will “buy in” to learning a new style of walking together if they use a high rate of reinforcement and give almost constant feedback to the dog, so the dog understands that there is a nice conversation to be had when out walking together, not just shouting brief dispatches to each other across the expanse of the length of the leash.
Every so often, an owner seems happy to see that their dog can walk so nicely, but I’d say that the majority of time, they look a little mad. “Why will he do it for you, and not me?!” they want to know.
Because I have practiced, I tell them. I’ve done my 10,000 hours of walking with dogs on leash. I am not babbling in body language, nor refusing to speak: I am communicating consistently in super simple terms they can grasp within moments. You have to practice your language skills – your body language – and have someone watch and tell you when your hands are crazy, or you are checking out of the conversation and absentmindedly letting your dog drag you to that bush to smell. Video yourselves! I tell them. Dedicate even just a few minutes a couple times a day, every day, and you guys are going to get this!
And you know what? Almost always, in the Week Four class, they are looking pretty darn good together – or at least, way better. Their dogs now have a semblance of understanding what their owners want; they are starting to speak the same language. There are longer and longer minutes of “conversation” and sparks of happiness start to fly between them.
It’s always alarming when our dogs – our normally loving companions – behave aggressively with each other. It doesn’t make them bad dogs! But we must take steps to keep them and their canine friends, acquaintances, and even passing stranger-dogs safe. Photo by OK-Photography, Getty Images
Of all the canine behaviors that humans find upsetting – or even traumatic – aggression is usually the one that elicits the most concern. Canine aggression can be shocking in its speed, unpredictability, and violence, and it’s not much less disturbing when your dog is aggressive with other dogs rather than at humans.
A Note on Talking About Aggressive Behavior
I do not label any dog an “aggressive dog.” Rather, I refer to them as “dogs with an aggressive behavior.” This recognizes that the dog has many good qualities and provides support for the humans who are often called upon to defend their “bad” dog. These dogs are often fun and loving companions most of the time, which is why it’s so daunting when an otherwise wonderful dog exhibits this challenging behavior.
Dogs who get aggressive with other dogs can be discriminating in their choice of targets. A dog who aggresses toward other dogs doesn’t necessarily try to fight with all other dogs. Five of the most common “flavors” of aggression toward other dogs are:
Of these five, the first four generally have a somewhat predictable pattern, which can help us manage and even prevent troubling outbursts of aggressive behavior. Sporadic, inconsistent episodes of aggression are more difficult to solve, and help from an experienced force-free behavior professional will likely be required.
Every dog is different, so each case of inter-dog aggression requires its own analysis and an individualized management and modification program, but there are commonalities in the above scenarios that are worth examining.
With that in mind, here’s how to deal with the five most common presentations of dog-dog aggression:
Dog Aggression With Other Dogs in the Family
This is perhaps the most difficult of the scenarios, since the dogs need to live together in the home, which can be very stressful for canines and humans alike.
In some cases, this aggression presents only indoors. Many of these dogs appear to be perfectly compatible playing together in the yard or at away-from-home venues. This suggests possible resource guarding of space, valued objects (such as the sofa), and/or humans – a common cause of intra-family aggression that is often easily managed. For more information about behaviors related to resource guarding, see Food Aggression in Dogs.
In-home aggression can also result when a dog is stressed about being trapped in a confined space and behaves defensively aggressive indoors but gets along with his canine roommates when outdoors. On the other hand, some dogs are just as likely to attack their canine siblings outdoors as indoors, which suggests a deeper-seated conflict.
Sometimes the wrong dog gets blamed for intra-family conflicts. Dog A is an exuberant player who overwhelms Dog B and ignores her “Please tone it down!” signals. Dog B, uncomfortable with the interaction, may be pushed into aggressing to get her message across to Dog A. Dog B gets blamed for the fight, when it’s really Dog A’s fault for not responding appropriately to Dog B’s “Please stop” signals. In this case, human intervention is necessary to interrupt the play before Dog B makes her own defensive statement.
Here are some tips for dealing with intra-family aggression:
Observe the dogs to determine if there is persistent ongoing tension or if the dogs are calm and relaxed with each other when not in the trigger situation. Identify when and where you see tension between the dogs.
Manage the potential combatants to avoid opportunities to practice the behavior and increase the intensity of emotions. If they are mostly calm and you can predict the trigger, the dogs can spend some time together. If there is constant tension, the conflict is unpredictable, and/or the triggers not identifiable, then you need total separation while you work to modify the behavior.
Implement standard behavior management and modification protocols to change the dogs’ associations and behaviors with each other. My go-to protocol is usually counter conditioning and desensitization.
Contact a qualified force-free behavior professional if you are not confident about handling this on your own, or if you are attempting to but not seeing good results. See “Find the Best Trainer for You and Your Dog,” WDJ June 2023.
Ultimately, if the dogs cannot learn to live peacefully together, it might be appropriate to rehome one of them, especially if there is a friend or family member who knows and loves the dog and will take her.
Many dogs see other dogs coming into their territory as intruders and threats. If your dog normally gets along well with others outside her home, you may be able to convince her that having canine visitors is a good thing. If not, your easiest solution is to not have other dogs come to your home.
Introduce your dog to his prospective visitor in a neutral territory – perhaps a neighbor’s fenced yard, or a secure space rented through SniffSpot.com (the “Airbnb” of private dog parks). Start with the dogs on leash at some distance from each other, and if they both look happy, drop the leashes and let them play. After a few minutes of appropriate play, remove their leashes and let them continue to play. For more information, see How to Safely Introduce Your Dog to Other Dogs.
When all is going well and the dogs are clearly being social with each other (not just tolerating or avoiding), do parallel walking (on leash) in the home-dog’s neighborhood. If you see signs of tension there, go slowly. Sit and chat somewhere comfortable, some distance from the dog’s home.
PAIN CAN CAUSE AGGRESSIVE BEHAVIOR
The quest to understand and improve the behavior of any dog who exhibits aggressive behaviors needs to start with a full medical workup, ideally with a veterinarian who specializes in pain evaluation in addition to a general practitioner.
Many medical conditions can cause anxiety and pain, which are both significant contributors to aggression. Trying to manage and modify aggression without identifying and treating medical contributors is akin to pushing a boulder uphill. A full medical evaluation often rules out or identifies any physical ailments that need to be treated.
When the dogs are comfortable walking the neighborhood, do the same thing in the home-dog’s backyard (assuming a fenced yard). Walk and/or sit with the dogs until all is calm, and then remove leashes and let them play.
If a yard isn’t an option, take the dogs indoors on leash and manage their proximity to each other until the home-dog is clearly relaxed and comfortable with the visitor. Then let them interact off their leashes with close supervision until you are confident that they are OK together.
When a dog is perfectly social and appropriate with others when off-leash, but aggressive when on-leash, there are couple of possible explanations. Being on leash interferes with your dog’s ability to interact normally and communicate with appropriate social signals.
If she’s aggressive toward other leashed dogs, she may have been allowed to greet other dogs on leash, or anytime she’s off leash, and now she gets aroused and frustrated if she isn’t immediately allowed to greet them as soon as she sees them. Or, she may be somewhat fearful of other dogs, though when she is off-leash she knows she can escape if necessary. When leashed, she realizes she’s trapped and can’t get away, so she puts on an aggressive display in an effort to keep the other dog(s) away from her.
To work with this behavior:
Do not allow your dog to greet other dogs on leash. Ever. This can often prevent on-leash aggression from developing in the first place.
Use counter conditioning and desensitization to change her association with other dogs so she doesn’t feel the need to protect herself, but rather sees the presence of other dogs as a predictor of yummy treats from you (chicken!)
Use a variety of operant behaviors that she loves in the presence of other dogs as management tools and to move her brain from “worried” to “happy,” such as:
Find It! (Drop a treat at your feet and tell her to “Find it!”)
The 1-2-3 Pattern Game. This is where you count your steps “One! Two! Three!” as you walk with your dog and drop a treat on the ground by your foot every time you say “Three!”
You can also just feed treats to manage your dog’s behavior as another dog passes by, until the other dog is far enough away that your dog will no longer react.
It’s a bigger challenge if your dog behaves with aggression when she is approached by a loose dog, because the approaching dog is unknown and unpredictable and because, again, your dog feels trapped on the leash and can’t communicate with appropriate social signals. There are several things you can do:
Avoid walking your dog where there are likely to be loose dogs (based on past history of loose dogs!).
Continually scan for potential “safe havens” when you are walking – places where you and your dog can escape to if necessary.
Carry a dog-safe canine deterrent spray.
Toss a generous handful of treats at the approaching dog and then do your “Walk Away.”
Yell at the approaching dog and stomp your feet.
Teach your dog a “Get behind me” cue so you are between her and the loose dog.
Protect yourself and your dog with an umbrella or walking stick.
Aggressive When Off Leash and Approached by Other Dogs
This one is all your responsibility. If you know your dog is aggressive toward other dogs when she’s off leash, you simply cannot let her off leash anywhere that you might encounter other dogs. If you do want to modify this behavior, work with a qualified force-free behavior professional.
Random, Inconsistent Aggression in Various Situations
This may be the most obvious case for the aforementioned behavior professional. To manage your dog properly, you must be able to recognize the underlying triggers of her aggression. Even if it seems random and unpredictable to you, an experienced professional may be able to identify contributors to your dog’s aggressive behavior.
RULES TO LIVE BY WHEN YOUR DOG IS DOG-AGGRESSIVE
Three things are vitally important to keep in mind when you are working with a dog with aggressive behaviors:
If you can predict it, you can prevent it. Watch your dog in every situation where other dogs are present and take immediate action to intervene if you see the slightest sign of tension or annoyance.
Employ management tools (gates, doors, tethers) and practices at all times. We can’t say this often enough: It is incumbent upon you, as the dog’s human, to manage her environment so she never has the opportunity to attack another dog. For some dogs, this means management for her lifetime. For others, it may mean until you have successfully addressed the behavior and she no longer offers to aggress toward other dogs.
Maintain realistic expectations. Lots of dogs don’t get along with all other dogs. It could be that the most realistic outcome is that your dog can develop a small circle of intimate canine friends but may never be allowed to encounter unfamiliar dogs. You might always have to keep toys picked up so your toy-guarding dog doesn’t launch at your other home-dog for glancing at her favorite stuffy. Maybe your dog can never be around another dog, period. All of those things are OK. You and your dog can still have a great life together without your dog having to interact with other dogs, as long as you are willing to do whatever is necessary to keep everyone safe.
It bears repeating that often with “random” aggression cases there can be an underlying medical condition that triggers the dog to aggress.
Chicken is the most common animal protein source in dog food, which makes sense, because more chicken than any other animal protein is consumed by humans in this country, and much of the chicken that goes into dog food is a by-product from the human food industry. But this also means that chicken-free dog foods are harder to find than foods with chicken! Photo collage by Nancy Kerns
Dogs who are allergic to chicken in their food face a particular challenge: In order to be comfortable, they need a diet that contains no chicken, but chicken is the most common animal protein used in dog food. This means that the number of chicken-free dog foods is small relative to the number of dog foods overall.
Even so, it should be easy to find a diet that does not contain chicken, since all pet foods are required to list their ingredients, and today, every pet food maker has a website where all of their products are described.
However, chicken is so common in pet food that it’s sometimes detectible in foods that do not list chicken on their ingredients list, but is present as a result of cross-contamination in pet production facilities. A 2022 study, “Detection of Chicken DNA in Commercial Dog Foods,” found that chicken is one of the most common undeclared animal species on pet food labels.
So what’s a dog owner to do?
First, you need to determine that your dog is truly allergic to chicken, by using an elimination diet.
If the allergy is confirmed, find a chicken-free dog food, chicken-free treats, chicken-free toothpaste, and chicken-free supplements (if you use them).
If you are confident that you have eliminated every source of chicken in your dog’s diet, and yet the dog continues to display allergy symptoms, take these steps:
Quiz (interrogate?) everyone in the family to find out if it’s possible that your dog is being fed something he isn’t supposed to have: treats from that drive-through coffee kiosk? McNuggets stolen from the kids?
Contact the manufacturer of the food you are feeding to ask if it’s possible that formula changes have been made that are not reflected on the label of the product you bought. Be prepared with the date/code from the label of the product you are feeding.
Try another manufacturer’s chicken-free dog food, because chicken-free dog foods that are made in a manufacturing facility that makes other products that do contain chicken can get cross-contaminated – and if this has happened once at that manufacturing facility, it will likely happen again.
Try a diet with a hydrolyzed protein.
Home-prepare your dog’s food.
A PERSONAL STORY OF A CHICKEN-ALLERGIC DOG
Once chicken was eliminated from Rupert’s diet, he finally grew a thick, healthy coat. Photo by Nancy Kerns
More than 20 years ago, I had a very itchy Border Collie named Rupert. I was aware that he was highly allergic to fleas and suspected that he also suffered from environmental allergies, because his itching was worse in the spring pollen season than at any other time.
At one point, I took Rupert to a holistic veterinarian who suggested that feeding kibble was the worst thing I could do to a dog with allergies. A fresh, raw diet, she said, would give Rupert access to the nutrients required for his body to heal and balance itself. She gave me a recipe for a diet based on raw chicken – the least expensive fresh meat – and I started feeding that to Rupert.
Within three days of being on the new diet, Rupert broke out in a firestorm of itching and scratching and biting himself. Overnight he developed an ear infection, which made him shake his head so hard that he developed an aural hematoma (a broken blood vessel in the ear flap). His usually floppy ear was standing up and so obviously painful that he was walking around with his head turned sideways, whimpering.
Cue the giant emergency vet bill! Surgery to drain the ear and tightly pack and bandage the ear to prevent further damage to the blood vessels. Steroids to stop his itching. Antibiotics for the ear and the hotspots he chewed into himself. And of course a cone to stop him from further damaging himself.
In the aftermath of that event, another veterinarian suggested that I should try feeding Rupert an elimination diet, comprised completely of ingredients he had never been fed before. In an elimination diet, you feed a novel protein source and a novel carbohydrate, and nothing else. This vet suggested buffalo meat and quinoa, both of which were available at our local Whole Foods.
Rupert’s baseline of constant, mild itching stopped within a week. And he didn’t scratch or lick the entire time I had him on this diet. His coat, which was always a tad thin and raggedy, started looking thicker. He was resting well and his eyes and ears were clear. It was obvious that something in his diet had been contributing to his allergy symptoms.
I started reviewing the ingredients lists of all the foods I had ever fed him, looking for ingredients in common – and this was before every pet food company had websites where you could find the ingredients; I had to visit pet food supply stores in person to flip over bags and write down the ingredients. To my surprise, I found that there was one ingredient common to every food that Rupert had ever been fed: chicken. I thought back to our ill-fated raw food diet trial of raw chicken. Poor Rupie! The evidence was strong that he was allergic to chicken, and I had tried him on a diet with a TON of it.
When you use an elimination diet, once your dog stops itching and is stable, you add one ingredient at a time back to his diet, waiting two to three weeks to see if he has an adverse response before adding another ingredient. I was so convinced that chicken was the problem, that instead of adding one ingredient at a time, I just looked for a dog food that contained no chicken. I found one that was comprised mainly of beef and barley. I started him on that food and held my breath, in case there was an ingredient in the new food that was also problematic. But Rupert stayed itch-free. It felt like a miracle!
For the rest of his life, Rupert would respond to any ingestion of chicken with a burst of itchiness for a day or two. But as long as I made sure he was chicken-free (and flea-free, of course), his skin remained clear and his coat thick and shiny. Even the springtime pollen didn’t bother him like it had when he was exposed to daily servings of chicken and pollen.
An allergic or hypersensitive reaction is when the dog’s immune system overreacts to a normally harmless substance and produces antibodies to it. Among those few dogs who have a true food allergy, the most common source of hypersensitive reactions is some sort of protein, with beef being the most common, followed by dairy products, chicken, and wheat gluten.
The most common sign of a food allergy in dogs is pruritus (intense itching). Dogs may display behavior that indicates that their skin is particularly itchy on their face, ears, feet, abdomen, and/or around their anus, though they may just be itchy all over. This itchiness can appear at any time of year – which helps distinguish a food allergy from a seasonal environmental trigger such as pollen or mold spores.
In addition, a dog with a food allergy may suffer from gastrointestinal (GI) signs such as vomiting and diarrhea, increased frequency of defecation (more than three times per day), soft-formed stool, tenesmus (the feeling that they need to poop even when they don’t, as evidenced by posturing without producing any feces, brought on by irritation of the nerves involved in pooping), flatulence, and loud or rumbling noises coming from his gut.
The gold standard for diagnosing food allergies is a diet elimination trial, wherein a dog is fed a novel animal protein – ideally, one he’s never been fed before – and a novel carbohydrate source. Every other source of food is withheld; only those two ingredients should cross his lips for the period of the trial.
Distinguishing Hypersensitivity (Allergy) from Other Adverse Reactions to Food
A true food allergy in a dog causes an exaggerated or inappropriate immunologic response to what should be a innocuous substance. But a dog can have other adverse responses to food that can cause symptoms that look similar to those of allergy.
A food intolerance can result from the absence of specific enzymes needed to digest a food substance, as with lactose intolerance, which can cause diarrhea, soft-formed stool, flatulence, and a loud gut. It may also result from an abnormality in the body’s ability to absorb nutrients.
Only a properly conducted food elimination trial, followed by a controlled dietary re-challenge with previously fed foods, can accurately diagnose a food allergy. Blood, saliva, and skin tests for food allergies often fail to produce results that are consistent with clinical reactivity.
If, after eight to 12 weeks, his allergy symptoms have ceased, a single ingredient can be added back into his diet, and that diet is fed for about two weeks while he is closely observed for allergy symptoms. If signs of allergy reappear, that ingredient is added to a list of ingredients to which he is allergic and should not receive. If, though, he continued to enjoy a lack of symptoms, one more ingredient is reintroduced to his diet under observation. This single-ingredient addition and observation continues indefinitely until you know what ingredients he’s allergic to.
Once at the database of your choice, click on “add filters” (on the top left-hand side of the table of products). Then use the drop-down menus to change the text in the first box (“Where”) to “ingredients”, the second box to “does not contain”, and type “chicken” into the third box. You can then click “submit,” or add more filters if you are seeking to exclude other ingredients or products with a specific maximum amount of fat, or wish to find products below a certain price point.
Currently, there are 424 dry foods on our Approved Foods list, 406 chicken-free canned foods, and 169 chicken-free freeze-dried diets. Since our lists take in products at a wide price range, to accommodate dog owners of varying means, the products themselves will range in cost and quality, from moderate/good to quite expensive/great. Remember: The most expensive food is not always the best food, nor the best product for your dog.
Of course, you can also visit your favorite local pet supply store and ask for help finding a suitable chicken-free food for your dog.
Feed a Hydrolyzed Diet
The proteins in hydrolyzed diets have been tremendously altered through a water-based process called hydrolysis. Hydrolysis breaks down the protein into its constituent amino acids, which are less recognizable to the body’s immune-system sentries and thus far less likely for the dog’s body to react to them, but allows dogs to take in important nutrients. Hydrolyzed diets were first brought to the market by Purina in 1998, with Hill’s and Royal Canin following with hydrolyzed products within a few years.
The hydrolyzed diets on the market today include (note that these are all available by veterinary prescription only).
Each of these companies offer a canned and a dry version of their products.
Note that the companies who are large enough to have innovated these diets are not necessarily the ones that use fresh, whole ingredients in their foods. All of the ingredients in these diets (not just the proteins) tend to be highly processed and selected for high digestibility, so their ingredients lists don’t read as super appealing.
For example, the first five ingredients in Hills z/d dry dog food are corn starch, hydrolyzed chicken liver, hydrolyzed chicken, powdered cellulose, and soybean oil – not the most delicious, healthy-sounding food.
However, if one of these diets transforms your itchy, uncomfortable, raggedy-looking dog into a calm non-itchy dog with a nice coat, don’t fret about the ingredients or formula. The proof is in the pudding – or rather, the food’s performance; your dog’s comfort should be paramount.
Home-Prepare Your Dog’s Diet
Making your dog’s food (and treats!) at home is the best way to ensure he doesn’t eat chicken or any other ingredients to which he’s allergic.
Making your dog’s food is not rocket science, but you do need a reliable guide to ensure that the food you make contains an appropriate amount of calories and essential nutrients, in the proper amounts and proportions for a complete and balanced diet. Each meal does not need to be complete and balanced, but balance over time must be achieved to prevent deficiencies or excesses.
We suggest working with your veterinary nutritionist to determine your dog’s approximate energy requirements, and the proportions of protein, fat, and carbohydrates (if any) you should strive to provide in your dog’s food. You can develop recipes for complete and balanced home-prepared diets for your dog at the website Balance.It.
A chicken-free home-prepared diet – in addition to assiduous control of your dog’s snacks and treats – will offer your chicken-allergic dog the best chance of a comfortable, itch-free life.
Lethargy and decreased appetite are common to depressed dogs but can also be symptoms of other ailments. This makes it important to get a veterinarian involved as soon as possible. Credit: Chalabala | Getty Images
Signs your dog is depressed can be subtle, often starting with a gradual loss of interest in once-loved games, a few extra naps, and a declining appetite. Depression in dogs also can start with a bang, such as finding a previously outgoing and well-mannered dog hiding in the closet, ripping up shoes, or growling at old friends.
How to Tell If Your Dog Is Depressed
When it comes to depressed dogs, the signs vary, but depression in dogs typically involves a significant behavioral change. Some of the more common signs include:
Lethargy/sleeping more
Lack of interest in preferred activities/toys
Unwilling to socialize
Short tempered
Lack of appetite
Increase in destructive behavior
Hiding
Increased anxiety/clinging to owner
Causes of Canine Depression
Much of the time, depression in dogs can be linked to an event or experience. Perhaps one of the most common triggers is big changes in routine such as moving to a new home or an owner switching from day shift to night shift. Bringing new members into the family—like the arrival of a puppy, a significant other moving in, or a baby being born—can be a problem spot as well. The potential for depression isn’t a reason to avoid these kinds of life events, but it should certainly be motivation to consider how best to help your dog adapt when they are occurring.
Dogs also can become depressed following the loss of a family member, whether human or canine, or any regular companion. They can and do experience grief and grief-related depression. It takes time for them to work through the loss and develop a new routine. In addition, they are often faced with how to handle the grief their owners are likely going through at the same time.
The most serious instances of depression in dogs often come from cases where the animal has experienced trauma, abuse, or extended isolation. Shutting out the world can be a survival strategy in these extremes and can carry over even when the dog has been removed from the environment that caused the trauma. Building trust with the dog and seeking expert advice are extremely important when working with an animal whose depression likely stemmed from a deeply traumatic experience.
Caring for a Depressed Dog
Chronic pain and illness can go hand-in-hand with depression in dogs, so your veterinarian is an essential part of diagnosis and treatment plans for dogs suffering from depression. Your vet will explore potential physiological causes which can lead to your dog becoming depressed or exhibiting symptoms similar to depression. Of course, if something is discovered during the exam, the primary treatment will be to first resolve the underlying issue.
If physiological reasons for the dog’s depression are ruled out, look at your dog’s daily life and be sure the basics are in place:
Do you have an established routine for your dog? Consistency can play a big role in a dog’s sense of security, especially if there has recently been a big change in their lives.
Is your dog’s diet suitable for his activity level and health needs? Things like food allergies can affect mood and behavior. If you switched foods or added something new to your dog’s diet around the time they began showing signs of depression, consider returning to the previous diet.
Is your dog getting enough exercise and attention from you? Getting up and moving can help the dog to reengage with his environment as well as stimulating his appetite. If your dog likes being groomed, take some extra time to brush him out. If there is a game or toy your dog has previously enjoyed, offer opportunities to play.
Does your dog have friends? If your dog is in a good place to socialize, it may be helpful to meet for a playdate with friends. A few words of caution here: If your dog actively avoids interacting or is showing signs of aggression (including just being unusually grumpy) and/or anxiety, this is not the right time for socialization. As an example, a dog who is depressed following the loss of a companion may be lonely and desperate for the company of familiar dogs. Meeting more often with friends may be just what they need to start feeling better. On the flip side, a dog who is depressed following a traumatic experience may feel uncomfortable and unsafe even around animals they know. This could put them in a situation where they lash out to protect themselves or cause them to retreat further. Pay attention to what your dog is telling you about what they need. If you’re feeling stuck, don’t hesitate to reach out to a vet or behaviorist for advice.
Training also can be a good way to promote engagement. If your dog is willing, take some time each day to go over simple commands you know they’ve mastered. Celebrate even small successes, whether their performance is up to their usual standard or not. Go ahead and add in some new tricks, games, or activities. Engage your dog’s mind.
The trick with all the options above is to not force your dog to engage. If he doesn’t want to play or shies away from the brush, put it away and try again tomorrow. While it can be difficult to have patience when you can clearly see your dog is struggling, it is important not to overwhelm them. The caveat to this is that depression is not a get-out-of-jail-free card. Continue to correct inappropriate behavior as you normally would. Calm consistency is key.
Medication as an Option for Canine Depression
In some cases, no amount of exercise, routine, and attention is enough to alleviate the condition.
The primary goal when working with a dog suffering from depression is to stay patient, calm, and consistent. There is no immediate fix for emotions. Rather, it is a day-by-day process of ensuring your dog has what he needs to move through it. A good, established routine and some extra TLC can go a long way. Also, keeping your vet appraised of how your dog is doing is important for determining if further care is needed.
Advances in vaccinology have helped to improve canine Lyme disease vaccines and meliorate its controversial reputation. Photo by FatCamera, Getty Images.
Lyme disease is the most commonly reported tick-borne disease in dogs. Fortunately, we can help protect our dogs from Lyme disease with preventive measures and using a vaccine sometimes called a “tick shot for dogs.” Of course, this is a vaccine that is only effective against Lyme disease in dogs, not all tick-borne diseases.
Tick-borne diseases are on the rise, including Lyme disease. You can help protect your dog from ticks and Lyme disease if you:
Promptly check for and manually remove attached ticks from our dogs; it takes 24 to 48 hours for attached ticks to transfer the disease.
Give the Lyme disease vaccine for dogs.
As a veterinarian and dog owner, I feel strongly that the canine Lyme vaccine is safe and effective enough for dogs who live in areas that are endemic for Lyme disease.
Even a Vigorous Tick-Borne Disease Protocol Can Fail
Prince on a hike in Colorado. Despite being treated with multiple tick preventives, he once tested positive for a tick-borne bacteria. Photo courtesy Dr. Jennifer Bailey
I religiously give my dog Prince a dose of Nexgard every 30 days. I check him for ticks after we have been hiking in the woods. He wears a Seresto collar and an Insect Shield T-shirt or neck gaiter if we are visiting an area with a really high tick population. And I vaccinate him annually for Lyme disease.
Despite everything I do to protect him from tick-borne diseases, I was shocked last spring to find that he tested positive for exposure to Anaplasma, another tick-borne bacteria that can cause a disease called anaplasmosis. Thankfully, his Anaplasma antigen test was negative, meaning that his body had cleared the infection on its own. But I was still flabbergasted to find that I could not 100% protect him.
Most dogs who contract Lyme disease remain normal through the course of the disease, according to the Companion Animal Parasite Council. However, dogs who do show signs of an acute infection may experience fever, shifting leg lameness, swollen joints, enlarged lymph nodes, lethargy, depression, and loss of appetite. They usually improve quickly once treatment with antibiotics has begun. Dogs with chronic infections may exhibit shifting leg lameness caused by polyarthritis (inflammation affecting joints in more than one limb), which may persist even in the face of aggressive antibiotic therapy. Only about 1% to 5% of dogs who are infected with Lyme disease suffer from the most serious effect of s Lyme nephritis – damage to the kidneys. This condition is often fatal despite treatment.
Efficacy rates for canine Lyme vaccines have been reported within a range of 50% to 90%. Effectiveness of the vaccines appears to increase with each booster. No vaccine is 100% effective.
Lyme Vaccine Side Effects
The Lyme vaccine for dogs is targeted at proteins that are part of the bacteria that causes Lyme disease, Borrelia burgdorferi, a bacterium that is carried by some ticks.
Lyme vaccines confer protection to our dogs against the bacteria that causes Lyme disease, Borrelia burgdorferi (see “How Does the Lyme Vaccine for Dogs Work?,” below). The initial series is two vaccines given two to three weeks apart. After the initial series, the Lyme vaccine is administered once a year.
Decades ago, the Lyme vaccine earned a reputation for causing side effects in dogs. A 2005 study reported that the incidence of acute adverse events in dogs within 3 days of vaccinations for any disease was highest for those receiving a B. burgdorferi bacterin vaccine (43.7 incidents per 10,000 doses) compared with all other vaccines examined. No newer studies have been reported, but considerable advances have been made in vaccinology in recent years.
How Does the Lyme Vaccine for Dogs Work?
Lyme vaccines confer protection to our dogs against the bacteria that causes Lyme disease, Borrelia burgdorferi. The initial series is two vaccines given two to three weeks apart. After the initial series, the Lyme vaccine is administered once a year.
All of the currently available Lyme vaccines target a protein that is expressed on the surface of Borrelia burgdorferi called outer surface protein A (OspA). Some of the currently available Lyme vaccines also target a surface protein called outer surface protein C (OspC).
A dog who has been vaccinated for Lyme disease has antibodies for OspA. The antibodies enter the tick when it begins to take a blood meal. The antibodies attach to OspA expressed on the surface of Borrelia burgdorferi. This starts a biochemical chain of events that leads to destruction of the bacteria.
Dogs who have received a Lyme vaccine that targets both OspA and OspC will have antibodies for both proteins. Think of having OspC antibodies as an extra layer of protection. If Lyme bacteria that have not been targeted by OspA antibodies enter a dog’s body, then OspC antibodies will target the bacteria, leading to its demise.
As with any vaccine, your dog may experience side effects to the Lyme vaccine, including lethargy, reduced appetite, and soreness. In rare circumstances, dogs who receive the Lyme vaccine may experience an adverse reaction, which is basically an allergic reaction. Symptoms of a vaccine reaction include vomiting, diarrhea, facial swelling, hives, and severe coughing or difficulty breathing. A serious vaccine reaction can occur in the first few minutes to a few hours after receiving a vaccine. Always seek immediate veterinary care if you think that your dog is experiencing a vaccine reaction.
The panelists that recommended routinely vaccinating at-risk dogs for Lyme disease cited these reasons for their recommendation:
Inconsistent use of flea/tick preventatives can leave dogs susceptible to tick bites and exposure to Lyme disease. Receiving the Lyme vaccine adds another level of protection against Lyme disease.
Previous exposure to Borrelia burgdorferi does not grant a dog immunity to Lyme disease in the future.
The panelists who did not recommend giving the Lyme vaccine to dogs cited these reasons for their recommendation:
Most dogs who are exposed to Borrelia burgdorferi do not develop symptoms of Lyme disease.
For those dogs who develop Lyme nephritis, the panelists expressed concern that having received the Lyme vaccine in the past could further aggravate this condition.
The efficacy and duration of immunity of the Lyme vaccine is not proven.
A paper titled “Why the Rationale for Canine Borrelia burgdorferi Vaccination Is Unpersuasive,” written by Nadine A. Vogt, DVM, PhD, a veterinarian and epidemiologist at the University of Guelph, in Ontario, Canada, and Christian P. G. Stevens, of the Department of Philosophy at King’s College in London, is available online for those who wish to read more about the controversy.
To Vaccinate or Not to Vaccinate
The American Animal Hospital Association (AAHA) says all the canine Lyme vaccines have been proved safe and efficacious. The AAHA Canine Vaccination Task Force, which produces the most widely accepted vaccination guidelines for veterinarians, considers the Lyme vaccine to be a non-core vaccine, which means it is recommended for some dogs based on “lifestyle, geographic location, and risk of exposure.” (Core vaccines include adenovirus, distemper, parvovirus, and rabies, which are “recommended for all dogs irrespective of lifestyle, unless there is a specific medical reason not to vaccinate.”)
The decision about whether to vaccinate your dog for Lyme disease is one that should be made by you and your veterinarian. Your veterinarian should ask you questions to determine your dog’s risk of being exposed to Borrelia burgdorferi and developing Lyme disease.
Factors such as your dog’s outdoor activities, general health, and previous exposure to tick-borne diseases should be considered. Your geographic location and places you plan on visiting with your dog are additional factors.
One thing is certain: Consistent use of flea/tick preventatives and checking dogs daily for ticks are keys to preventing transmission of the bacteria that cause tick-borne diseases. Vaccinating at-risk dogs for Lyme disease may be the third key to prevention.
Puppies who are expected to reach an adult size of 50 pounds or more must be fed a diet that is formulated for large-breed puppies. Failure to select appropriate foods for these pups can have lifelong affects on their health. Photo by Jill Lehmann Photography, Getty Images
Choosing a food for a new puppy is always a bit worrisome, but for those who adopt large or giant breed pups, selecting the right food is critically important. To prevent rapid growth and ensure proper development, adjustments must be made to the diet formulations for large breed puppy food for puppies who are expected to meet or exceed an adult size of 70 pounds. Here’s what to look for when shopping for the best food for large breed puppies – and how to know when you should stop feeding large breed puppy food.
When looking for a large or giant breed puppy food, it is important to read the statement of nutritional adequacy on the packaging. The standards for the nutritional adequacy of dog foods have been set by the Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO). You will see one of the following statements on foods formulated for growth (which is what most of us call puppy food) or all life stages (which includes the growth stage):
“[Pet Food Name] is formulated to meet the nutritional levels established by the AAFCO Dog Food Nutrient Profiles for growth/all life stages including growth of large-size dogs (70 lbs. or more as an adult).” This is the statement that must be on the label of any food you buy for your large-breed puppy.
“[Pet Food Name] is formulated to meet the nutritional levels established by the AAFCO Dog Food Nutrient Profiles for growth/all life stages except for growth of large-size dogs (70 lbs. or more as an adult).” This statement means that the product is not formulated for the needs of large breed puppies. Do not buy products with this statement if you are feeding a large-breed puppy.
How large-breed puppy food is different
Foods that are formulated for smaller puppies can cause large breed puppies to grow too quickly, which can make them prone to skeletal problems. When formulating diets specifically for large breed puppies, several nutritional factors are adjusted to moderate the puppies’ growth rate for a healthier frame.
While all puppies require foods that are higher in energy than foods for the maintenance of adult dogs, the amount of energy fed to large breed puppies needs to be controlled. While large breed puppies grow a lot, they need to grow slowly to prevent developmental orthopedic diseases such as osteochondrosis (a family of disorders that affect bone growth) and acute inflammatory joint disease, which can occur subsequent to osteochondrosis. Feeding a diet that is too calorically dense can lead to your puppy growing faster than their developing bones can accommodate. Because of this, diets for large breed puppies are lower in fat to help control the energy density.
The minerals required for proper skeletal development, mainly calcium and phosphorus, also need to be controlled. While calcium is needed for strong bones, excess calcium can be harmful. Unlike adult dogs, puppies cannot control the amount of calcium they absorb. This can lead to a surplus of the mineral, resulting in skeletal malformations. Diets formulated for large and giant breed puppies have a maximum of 1.8% calcium by dry matter (DM) – significantly less than the maximum of 2.5% calcium (DM) allowed for smaller breed dogs.
Because of the way that calcium interacts with other minerals, a dietary excess of calcium can cause deficiencies in nutrients like phosphorus. Because of the way their levels in a diet affect each other, a proper ratio of calcium and phosphorus is vital for the development of healthy bones. For large and giant breed puppies, the ideal calcium to phosphorus ratio should be between 1.1:1 and 1.4:1. Large breed puppies being fed a complete and balanced diet should not be given any supplemental calcium.
Note:
While AAFCO defines “large breed puppies” as those who are expected to meet or exceed a healthy adult weight of 70 pounds, many nutritionists recommend using 50 pounds as the cut-off for large breed dogs.
When to stop feeding large-breed puppy food
As a general guideline, you can begin to transition from large breed puppy food to adult dog food when your puppy has reached about 80% to 90% of their adult size. This typically corresponds to your puppy reaching his full height, with continued muscle and weight development as he continues to mature. Since large breed dogs grow at a slower rate compared to smaller breeds, their skeletal development typically takes between 12 and 24 months to complete. Consult your veterinarian to assess your dog’s growth to determine the best time to transition to adult food.
A torn ACL in a dog can occur due to repetitive stress, like throwing a ball over and over. Credit: Rapid Eye | Getty Images
If your dog tore his anterior cruciate ligament (ACL), your veterinarian may recommend surgery. That can be stressful for you, your dog, and your wallet. If you want to avoid surgery for your dog’s torn ACL, you may wonder if you can use an ACL dog brace and give your dog reasonable comfort and care. The answer: Yes, but you must purchase a good ACL brace for your dog.
Note: Dogs don’t have an ACL. They have a cranial cruciate ligament (CCL), so the correct diagnosis is a torn CCL, but the terms are used interchangeably.
Wondering if your dog has a torn ACL, the signs of an acute ACL rupture are quite classic. Usually, the dog is running and playing and suddenly gives a yelp and becomes completely non-weight bearing on a hind leg. The dog often continues to move around but will hike up or hang the affected limb and run on three legs.
Surgery for Torn Dog ACL
Surgery in the form of a tibial-plateau-leveling osteotomy (TPLO) is indeed the ideal treatment for most cruciate tears, but ACL braces are proving to be a good solution, too. The trick is to get the right brace for a torn ACL in the dog.
The goal of treatment for a torn ACL in your dog is to restore stability to the stifle joint. With the loss of an intact ACL/CCL, your dog’s stifle is unstable, so the tibia and femur bones can slide past each other, causing the infamous “drawer sign,” which occurs when the veterinarian holds the femur in place while the tibia can be pulled forward, like a sliding drawer. It’s a positive indication of a CCL rupture. This laxity causes pain and leads to the development of osteoarthritis.
Cost of an ACL Brace for Your Dog
A custom ACL brace for your dog will be more expensive, possibly $100 or more, though still less than surgery. It must be properly fit your dog, so he is comfortable walking with it. You will still need to do rehabilitation exercises and follow a protocol to allow healing.
Be aware that some problems with braces include sores from the brace not fitting perfectly or having poor padding, continued lameness even after time and rehab, your dog not tolerating his brace well, and, in the end, potentially needing surgery anyway.
No Quick Fix for Torn ACL in Dogs
So, obviously, braces are not a quick fix, anymore than surgery is. Sometimes a veterinarian will prescribe a brace post surgery to help your dog’s healing process.
Regardless of which method you choose, work with your veterinarian to be sure you have the correct diagnosis and for direction and input as you work your dog through recover.
A view from an overhead walkway at Superzoo 2019, looking over just a part of the massive trade show floor.
By the time you read this, I will on my second day of a challenging feat of endurance: Attempting to walk every aisle of Global Pet Expo, the country’s largest pet products trade show. This is where pet products companies come to set up elaborate booths to show what they are making and selling these days. All the pet food companies and veterinary pharmaceutical companies will be there with gigantic, elaborate booths. Manufacturers of every type of pet gear imaginable will be there, from mass-producers of leashes, harnesses, collars, toys, beds, and so on, to tiny little mom-and-pop businesses who are there with inventions of their own creation: spill-proof bowls, reflective rain jackets, identification tags, bait bags – you name it. Pet supply store owners and managers come to find unique, useful, and/or profitable products to carry in their stores, and, often, to sign orders for what they will be selling in late 2024 and early 2025.
I’ve been to other large pet products trade shows before. Over a decade ago, I twice attended a now-defunct pet products show, the H. H. Backer show in Chicago. On my first trip there, I was determined to avoid engaging in conversation with any company representatives until I had walked the entire show; I thought I would take notes on that walk about which booths I wanted to return to on the second day to talk to the representatives. When I discovered, late in that first day, that there were two floors, and it had taken me six hours to merely walk up and down the aisles of just one floor, without stopping to pick up literature or ask questions of anyone about anything, I was momentarily defeated. I had to completely revise my tactics, or I wouldn’t have had a chance to to talk to anyone there.
In the last 10 years I’ve gone to Las Vegas a few times to attend SuperZoo, a trade show that is held in the Las Vegas Convention Center, a facility with 3.2 million square feet of available space. That’s where I learned that I can’t make eye contact with even a fraction of the people in the booths that I walk by there, because if I do, they will try to talk to me and promote their products, and I’ve never get through the whole show. And even though I would like to be friendly and encouraging to entrepreneurs who are promoting products that they’ve put their life saving and hearts into creating, after all these years of looking for unique and particularly useful gear for dogs and dog owners, I am a bit of a snob. There aren’t that many truly cool new and innovative products out there for me to recommend to you!
One year at SuperZoo, when I was planning a feature on products for dogs that contained CBD, I started picking up samples and literature from every booth I passed by that was making and selling supplements or treats (or shampoos or essential oils or candles) that contained CBD. After about 40 companies, I gave up and started fixing my attention on only those companies who could show me evidence that they had been around for five years or more. There were so many people jumping into that market that it was obvious that many of them would be out of business in that highly competitive market niche within a year.
And don’t get me started on folks who were selling a line of dog treats from special recipes they developed in order to help their old special-needs dog. Were they aware that there are dozens and dozens of people with nearly identical stories and products? How did they really hope to distinguish themselves from the 50 other super-nice people who were also making dog cookies? Ack!
Global Pet Expo is being held at the Orange County Convention Center in Orlando, Florida – a facility with 7 million square feet of event space. There are 1,100 companies exhibiting their wares at the Expo and I’ve only got two days to hunt among them for the coolest new products for dogs and dog owners; wish me luck!
When Faith Thanas, an aromatherapist who lives in Leicester, Massachusetts, adopted a Doberman Pinscher from Louisiana one year after Hurricane Katrina, Sasha arrived in a van carrying 20 rescued dogs. A few days later, she started coughing.
To help soothe Sasha’s throat, Thanas mixed a blend of essential oils to spray in the air around the dog. She started with Ravensare (Cinnamonum camphora), one of the “must have” essential oils listed by Kristen Leigh Bell in her book Holistic Aromatherapy for Animals. As Bell explains, this gentle and tolerable antiviral, antibacterial essential oil supports the immune system and has tonifying effects.
Thanas then added Eucalyptus radiata, the gentlest of the many eucalyptus varieties available. It is known for its antiviral, anti-inflammatory, and expectorant properties. Bell writes, “Due to its gentleness, it is very appropriate for use in blends for animals for congestion, and it makes an excellent room air cleaner, deodorizer, and flea repellent.”
Eucalyptus globulus, the next ingredient, is the eucalyptus commonly found in chest rubs, cough drops, and cough syrups. It has a fresh antiseptic fragrance and, when inhaled, acts as a decongestant.
Thanas added Spike Lavender (Lavendula latifolia) for its powerful antibacterial properties.
After diluting the essential oils, Thanas used a spray bottle to mist the air around Sasha. “The results were instantaneous,” she recalls. “She stopped coughing, she was able to breathe, and she was so much more comfortable.”
For advice on preventing kennel cough as well as natural and effective ways to soothe the symptoms, purchase Kennel Cough from Whole Dog Journal.
Most boarding facilities require proof of Bordetella vaccination for dogs who will be visiting. However, because there are many strains of Bordetella, and because no vaccine protects every patient, some immunized dogs contract tracheobronchitis despite being vaccinated. Veterinary recommendations range from vaccinating every four months to not at all.
“There are two kinds of Bordetella vaccine,” says Stacey Hershman, DVM, a holistic veterinarian in Hastings-on-Hudson, New York. “The intranasal vaccine is highly effective and very safe since it is not systemic but goes down the nose into the throat. I do not recommend the injectable vaccine since it can cause negative side effects like lethargy, fever, vomiting, or diarrhea.
“I never vaccinate animals more than once a year for kennel cough, and then only if they are going to a boarding kennel. Kennel cough is not fatal in adult dogs, who usually board, therefore it would be over-vaccinating in my opinion to do it more than once a year. Healthy, strong immune systems are resistant and do not catch it, which is another reason not to vaccinate unless the dog is going to a kennel that requires it.”
No matter what your dog’s vaccination status, a few natural preventives can’t hurt, especially whenever your dog is exposed to dogs with active or recent infections.
For advice on preventing kennel cough as well as natural and effective ways to soothe the symptoms, purchase Kennel Cough from Whole Dog Journal.
Excerpted from Kennel Cough by Randy Kidd, DVM, PhD
The two most common afflictions of the respiratory system are the “common cold” and kennel cough. Both of these ailments are usually instigated by any of a number of viruses, often followed by secondary bacterial invasion. The severity of the symptoms varies widely, but in most “colds” they are mild and include wheezing, coughing, reluctance to move, and perhaps a mild fever.
Kennel cough (a.k.a. infectious tracheobronchitis), on the other hand, can produce symptoms that appear extreme, with a dry, hacking cough accompanied by frequent, intense gagging. I’ve had caretakers rush their kennel-coughing dog in to see me, thinking he has a bone caught in his throat. Despite its appearance, a typical case of kennel cough is not life-threatening, and it tends to run its course in a few days to a week or so. But it is a disease that is frustrating for pet and caretaker alike.
Kennel cough results from inflammation of the upper airways. The instigating pathogen may be any number of irritants, viruses, or other microorganisms, or the bacteria Bordetella bronchiseptica may act as a primary pathogen. The prominent clinical sign is paroxysms of a harsh, dry cough, which may be followed by retching and gagging. The cough is easily induced by gentle pressure applied to the larynx or trachea.
Kennel cough should be expected whenever the characteristic cough suddenly develops 5 to 10 days after exposure to other dogs – especially to dogs from a kennel (especially a shelter) environment. Usually the symptoms diminish during the first five days, but the disease may persist for up to 10-20 days. Kennel cough is almost always more annoying (to dog and her caretaker) than it is a serious event.
For advice on preventing kennel cough as well as natural and effective ways to soothe the symptoms, purchase Kennel Cough from Whole Dog Journal.
Excerpted from Keeping Your Dog’s Teeth and Gums Healthy by Dr. Randy Kidd, Lisa Rodier, CNWI, Nancy Kerns, and Lorie Long
Start by figuring out what position will be most comfortable for both you and your dog. For Angela Mees, DVM, of the Atlanta Veterinary Dental Services and her Greyhound, that’s standing. This lets Dr. Mees reach around from behind the dog, and works well for them. Smaller dogs might be happy to sit in your lap. For Atle, I’ve found that having him lie on his side works best.
Where to start? Dr. Mees advises that one approach is to divide the dog’s mouth into four quadrants, tackling one at a time. She begins with her dog’s front teeth because they’re easiest to reach. Wherever you choose to begin, start with a wet brush, and gently work each area as follows, with pressure light enough that the bristles barely bend:
To brush the front teeth, gently pull back the dog’s lips.
For the upper back teeth, put the brush in the dog’s cheek, and, gently holding her muzzle, close her mouth and brush. Closing the mouth controls the dog’s tongue, reducing any struggle with brushing.
For the lower back teeth, release your hold on the muzzle a bit, slightly open the dog’s mouth, and brush the bottom back teeth.
Dr. Mees admits that getting the insides of the teeth is difficult, so don’t get discouraged if you can’t (the dog’s tongue tends to keep the inner sides of the teeth clean). And don’t be concerned about brushing your dog’s tongue and roof of her mouth.
You may be asking: What direction should you brush? According to Dr. Mees, “We’re taught circular motions, but I think if you try circular motions in a moving animal, you’re going to get frustrated! So I usually recommend side to side.” In a perfect world, you’ll gradually work up to brushing each quadrant for about 30 seconds. Nonetheless, Dr. Mees acknowledges that you might not achieve that. She gets about five to ten seconds per quadrant on her own dog, so she brushes once quickly, then tries to repeat one or two more times.
Any amount of brushing is better than none; you will see better results in your dog’s oral health, even with a dog who won’t tolerate a total of more than 20 to 40 seconds, than if you never brushed. Do as much as he will handle to start, then gradually see if you can do a little more. I’m at day five with Atle, and I’ve been able to begin brushing his back upper and lower teeth. We’re still just talking a matter of seconds, and he’s not entirely thrilled, but that’s OK. I’m not in a hurry, and he’s getting lots of treats and praise for what he gives me.
After brushing, thoroughly rinse the brush and let it air dry. It’s a good idea to replace your dog’s toothbrush every three to six months, and use a separate toothbrush for each of your dogs to prevent the spread of germs.
I recently fostered a dog who first greeted me at the shelter that I sprung her from by jumping up on me. I spent the first two days with her almost exclusively working on preventing her from jumping. When I introduced her to a friend, my friend immediately held her arms out and greeted the dog’s enthusiastic jump up with a big hug, petting, and cooing
