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Essential Fatty Acids For Increased Canine Health

[Updated December 3, 2018]

Most animal lovers know that dogs need high quality protein, fat, and a complete complement of vitamins and minerals in their diet to remain healthy. We know that the foods our canine companions eat should come from clean, wholesome sources, and that a good diet must be combined with ample exercise and a healthy living environment. But when planning a diet for a companion animal, many of us overlook some very important aspects of what constitutes complete nutrition for an animal. In fact, some important nutritional elements are omitted from the diets of millions of dogs, contributing to chronic disease and perhaps even premature death.

Selecting the proper type and quality of food for our dogs is just a start. We also must be assured that the foods we select actually contain the nutritional values that are needed, and that these values are delivered to the body in a form that can be readily absorbed and properly metabolized.

There are many factors that interfere with nutritional quality of pet foods. First, we must consider that many pet foods are comprised of ingredients that are of a much lower quality than humans demand, and lower quality foods are more difficult for an animal to digest and assimilate.

dog in the ocean

Second, we must consider that even the best brands of commercial pet foods (and many home-prepared diets) are prepared at high temperatures, meaning that many of the nutritional components they once contained are destroyed before they reach the food bowl. Third, we have to consider the effects of oxidation in commercially-prepared pet foods – especially kibble.

Many important nutritional components of dried kibble begin to degrade shortly after the food is manufactured, and often the food will sit in a warehouse for months before even reaching the retailer. Because of this, the discriminating animal guardian should never assume that everything on a pet food label still exists in the bag at the time of purchase.

Essential Fatty Acids Are Important to Dogs

At the top of the list of things commonly missing from the companion animal diet are essential fatty acids (EFAs). EFAs are fat-carried nutrients that every mammal needs to maintain healthy function and structure of smooth muscle organs (i.e. heart, reproductive system), to protect and build liver cells, and to maintain healthy skin, coat, and strong joint tissues. They have also been linked to retinal development and antioxidant activities, and they are responsible for the synthesis and modulation of various prostaglandins – chemicals that serve as mediators of various physiologic processes in the body. Most notably, prostaglandins act upon smooth muscle contractions of the heart and digestive tract, the initiation and regulation of inflammatory responses, and serve to inhibit excessive clotting of the blood.

In other words, if a body (animal or human) does not receive sufficient amounts of EFAs, critical body functions can be severely disrupted. Dogs and cats that are deficient of EFAs typically develop chronic skin and coat disorders, digestive problems, cardiovascular disease, degenerative eye disease, and allergies. Even animals who show no obvious signs of chronic disease will usually display dramatic benefits of an EFA-enriched diet very quickly. A shinier and softer coat, less shedding, healthier skin, fewer fleas, and better tolerance to flea bites and other allergens can be seen within just a few weeks of first feeding a top-quality EFA supplement. With all of this in mind, it’s easy to understand why EFAs should not be regarded as supplemental measures of nutrition, but as fundamental components of good health.

Omega-3 and Omega-6 for Dogs

Scientists categorize EFAs into two general groups. The first (alpha-linolenic acid) comprises the Omega-3 fatty acids, which are derived mostly from animal fats but also from flax seed oil (the richest source) and a few other vegetable oils. The second (linoleic acid) comprises Omega-6 fatty acids, which are available from many vegetable sources, most notably the seed oils of borage, evening primrose, and black current.

It’s just as important for the ratio of Omega-6 to Omega-3 EFAs to be correct as it is for dogs to have them in their diets. A ratio of about 4-1 Omega-6 to Omega-3 is considered optimum for dogs. Many commercial dog foods contain EFAs in ratios of 20-1; ratios of 50-1 or more (often seen in foods that contain lots of corn, which contains high levels of Omega-6 EFAs) will result in an Omega-3 deficiency.

All sources of EFAs are very unstable, meaning they tend to oxidize and break down very quickly, and are destroyed by heat, light, and oxygen. This is where our pet food problem begins.

The cooking of food (or canned food sterilizing) destroys the critical EFAs our animals need, and exposure to air breaks them down and renders them useless very quickly. Fish oils (an excellent source of Omega 3 fatty acids) are the fastest to go rancid. The oxidation and subsequent EFA degradation of flax seed, borage seed, evening primrose seed, or black current seed oil occurs more slowly, but nevertheless, these oils cannot be expected to remain viable for more than a few months – especially if the oil is exposed to oxygen (which, in a bottled or powdered supplement, can happen every evening at the dog’s meal time).

EFA supplements are often provided in the form of a bottled oil mixture that is added to the dog’s food daily in small amounts. But in the few weeks or months it can take to use a bottle of oil, the EFA content will progressively diminish. By the time half of a four- to eight-ounce bottle is gone, we will only be able to guess how much essential fatty acid is actually left.

While they sound like a great idea, EFA-fortified commercial foods are not a reliable source of EFAs. Not only are most prepared with heat (which can destroy naturally-occurring EFAs), they are also subject to oxidation. Even vacuum-packaged dry foods contain oxygen within each kibble, and there is no way of telling how much EFA remains in the food at the time of purchase, much less after the substance sits in an opened bag for several days.

The bottom line is this: the only way you can assure that your canine companion is getting sufficient amounts of EFAs is to add an EFA supplement to your dog’s diet yourself, using a guaranteed-fresh source packaged in an oxygen-free container.

I personally like the Animal Essentials Essential Fatty Acid Supplement that is produced by Merritt Naturals. This formula provides a diverse and balanced complement of EFAs as well as additional nutritional factors that promote healthy blood and skin structure. Best of all, they have contained the oils in convenient, easy-to-open soft gel capsules that prohibit air from contacting the formula until the feeding time. This optimizes shelf life of the product and helps assure that your companion actually receives the essential fatty acids he needs.

EFA Requirements and Dog Dosages

No exact requirements of these supplements have been established as yet. Exactly how of much of each type of essential fatty acid a particular animal needs remains questionable, but most experts agree that dogs need a balance of both Omega-3 and Omega-6 acids in their diets. Some EFAs are synthesized within an animal’s body, while others must be derived exclusively from dietary sources. EFA requirements may also vary according to animal type. For example, dogs can produce arachidonic acid (an important EFA component) whereas cats cannot. Instead, cats must receive arachidonic acid directly from their diets. Animal fats, evening primrose oil, and borage seed oil are all good sources of arachidonic acid.

Because the dietary needs and metabolic rates of EFA absorption vary between the type of oil and the systemic variations of each individual animal, it is best to feed EFAs from a variety of fish and vegetable seed oil sources. A commonly accepted dosage is about 400-600 mg. of the combined oils, fed daily for each 20 pounds of a dog’s body weight (e.g., a 60-pound dog would require 1200-1800 mg.).

essential fatty acids for dogs

Gregory Tilford is an herbalist and co-owner of Animals Apawthecary, of Conner, Montana, a source of herbal supplements for dogs and cats. He is also founding president of the Natural Pet Products Association and author of several books on wild medicinal plants.

Holistic Help For Everything

I am new to alternative medicine for pets, and would like to share my experience so far. I have two dogs, a six-year-old Golden Retriever and an eight-year-old German Shepherd. Both have benefited from holistic care.

It started with Riker, my Golden Retriever. I got him as a rescue at eight weeks of age. He had kennel cough and almost didn’t survive. My allopathic vet helped me nurse him through it, and he has been healthy since. I trained him in obedience; Riker loves to work and will do anything to please.

I had his hips checked at age two before seriously jumping, and all checked out OK. I had never trained a dog for obedience before, so it was a new learning experience for both of us. We got our CD, then our CDX, and on to Utility. Riker is not your average Golden; he is extremely soft and would panic in the ring, especially on the exercises he had to work on his own across the ring.

We got through two of the three legs needed for the title before tragedy struck.

One day, after a grueling four-day show, I noticed when he stood up from lying on the floor, he would not use his right rear leg for several steps; it just dangled. After a few steps he was fine.

Nevertheless, I brought him to my regular vet. Her concern was that Riker might be about to burst a disk in his spine. She ran all sorts of tests: X-rays, thyroid, and a myleogram (an x-ray film taken after injection of a dye into the spinal cord). The tests revealed degenerative hip dysplasia.

The veterinarian said she had only two imperfect remedies: pain killers and surgery to replace at least one hip. She thought there was no possibility that Riker would ever compete again, and foresaw a life of pain and more degeneration for Riker.

Determined to find options
I started reading and researching. If we could never compete again, I knew there were at least alternatives to a life of pain and stiffness. I read up on nutrition and physical conditioning. I changed the diets of both my dogs, adding antioxidants, glucosamine, raw veggies, and raw meat. I started swimming Riker three days a week.

The breakthrough came when several friends recommended a local holistic veterinarian who had done wonders for their dogs. I called and Dr. Larry Bernstein came into our lives. He took a medical history and asked me what the traditional veterinarians told me could be done. He explained his ideas and treatment plan, including nutrition and acupuncture.

Dr. Bernstein also started an acupuncture treatment program and supplementation with Chinese medicinal herbs. He gave me some moxa sticks (cigar-like sticks that are made out of a slow-burning herb and held near the skin to warm the area and increase circulation, and are often used in conjunction with acupuncture) showed me how to give Riker a moxibustion treatment. Every night I give him 10-15 minutes of moxibustion on his back and hips.

Riker returns
I have to admit, the turn-around was not instantaneous, but with several treatments, swimming, and super nutrition, Riker was soon running and jumping the bushes out in front of my house to get the morning paper again.

After three months, I entered in one last show. It was a purely selfish thing, but I really wanted Riker to get that UD title. We practiced without any jumps, and then, a week before the show, I had him take two small jumps every other day during training.

When we entered the ring, he looked at me as if saying, “We can do this, Mom.” We were both cool, calm, and collected. And we did it! We not only qualified, but earned a score of 191 1/2 (out of 200). The house came down. All my friends who had been following our ordeal cheered, and there were a few wet eyes.

The kicker came the next day, when we qualified again. Our score wasn’t quite as good, but to qualify two days in a row in Utility was something we had never done before.

U-CD Commander Wm Riker, UD, WWCD, CGC and I are no longer competing. We play catch/fetch games, though, and do lots of swimming. We see Dr. Bernstein every six weeks for an acupuncture treatment, and it has made a world of difference in Riker. I now realize he was probably in pain for a long time, but he wouldn’t let me know.

Different problems, same solutions
My eight-year-old Shepherd Troi (U-CD Nirenberg’s Deana Troi, CDX, WWCD, CGC) has also benefited from Dr. Bernstein’s holistic methods. She always had skin problems; allergy tests showed she is allergic to everything except dust and cats! She was constantly on prednisone, and was overweight and lethargic. With the diet change, however, she lost weight, has a beautiful, soft coat, and acts like a puppy again.

A few weeks ago, one of my soft-sided crates fell and hit her back. She was in pain, but a good massage relieved the immediate cramping. I made an appointment to take her to see Dr. Bernstein.

She limped into Dr. Bernstein’s office, and he gave her an acupuncture treatment and a chiropractic adjustment. When she got up, she ran around in circles, no limp, no cramps, just joy! When he left the room, she sat at the baby gate separating the treatment room from the rest of the building, wagging her tail, going “Woof woof!’ in a “Come back, come back!” tone.

After three sessions, she is back to jumping on the couch all by herself, and herding Riker when he retrieves – all without any prednisone. She now gets a nightly moxa treatment; it is very relaxing and a bonding experience. Troi’s last health episode was a lump on her elbow. Both Dr. Bernstein and the allopathic vet recommended removing it, so she had surgery. Before and after surgery she got Chinese herbs to help with clotting.

Two weeks after surgery, her elbow suddenly swelled up – soft, mushy and tender. I took her to emergency care (it was a Saturday afternoon), and the vet on duty checked it out. He thought it was just joint swelling; he didn’t observe any pus or infection, but he said that if it didn’t go down, the surgeon might want to put in a drain.

The next day we had our regular appointment with Dr. Bernstein, and he used a therapeutic laser over the incision and swelling. He also have her a homeopathic remedy to help flush her system from the anesthesia and surgery. By evening, the swelling was 90 percent gone, and two days later, completely gone. The best news: the lump was benign.

Amazing alternatives
In less than a year I have been amazed at what natural holistic care can do. I’ve been using some of what I learned on myself and my husband, with great success! Recently I began researching my next dog – I’d like to get a Belgian Tervuren – and I found an email list of people who are raising Belgian Tervurens holistically. Hurray! I’m definitely looking forward to starting out with a healthy dog and keeping it healthy with good food and holistic care.

-By Cathy Nirenberg

WDJ reader Cathy Nirenberg lives in Hollywood, Florida.

Change of Dog Food Stops Seizures

On April Fool’s Day 1996, my soon-to-be-husband took me to get a puppy. We already had one dog, Ladybird, but she was getting older and we felt a young friend would encourage her to be more playful. We also hoped Ladybird would pass on some of her fine qualities to the puppy.

We drove out of town to a place where people play paintball. There were more than a dozen young dogs running around, and the owner told us to take our pick. One young female seemed to want my attention more than any of the others, and I fell in love with her pretty face. We took her home and named her Cheyenne.

We knew very little about Cheyenne’s lineage, but she appeared to be part Lab, with a little hound and quite a but of “who knows” thrown in. She was sweet, afraid of anything new, and very anxious to please. I took her to the veterinarian’s office for a complete checkup the next day and started her on vaccinations, flea pills, and heartworm pills.

Cheyenne seemed happy and healthy. Having been little better than a stray she had fleas and worms, but both conditions were quickly taken care of. The vet guessed she was about three to four months old. She quickly settled into our home and became part of the family.

Initial Problems

About three months after we adopted Cheyenne she had her first seizure. We had hardwood floors, and I heard her skittering across them. I went to see what she was up to and found her laying on the floor, absolutely rigid. Her toes were curled in, she was drooling uncontrollably, and only her eyes were moving.

Those eyes followed me as I approached and watched me in confusion and fear as I examined her and realized I couldn’t move any part of her. I immediately grasped what was happening, but was helpless to do anything except sit with her and stroke her head.

The incident lasted more than 15 minutes. Finally, she started to come out of it. Her tail started to wag, and she could move her head. It took a few more minutes for her to completely regain motor control over her legs, but once it was all over she seemed to be fine. She got up, drank some water, and went outside to play. It was as though nothing had happened.

I called the vet, of course. He advised me to keep an eye on her and see if it happened again before we took any corrective action.

Over the next year Cheyenne had a seizure every three to four months. She came to recognize the signs of an impending seizure and would do her best to get to a place she felt safe (either next to me or in her bed) while she could still move. Since I work at home, I was usually there and would sit with her, often putting her head in my lap, stroking her until it was over. That seemed to help her get through it with less fear, but each incident was terrifying to me.

The seizures continued to last 15 to 20 minutes, with total rigidity. Our vet examined her and we discussed possible causes and treatments. Labradors are often prone to seizures, and he suggested that we might put her on anti-seizure medication if they became more frequent. Their length concerned him, since most neurological reactions last just a few minutes, at most.

From Bad to Worse

In the early summer of 1998 Cheyenne had three seizure episodes just 10 days apart. She also started to convulse during the episodes, whereas before she had been completely rigid. My vet and I decided to do some very extensive and expensive blood work to try to diagnose her problem.

When the blood work results came back I was told she had a liver shunt. This meant that one of the veins that carry blood to her liver was “incomplete” or not properly connected. Depending on where the shunt was it might or might not be operable.

The next step would be to take her to Texas A&M where they have an excellent veterinary college and hospital. One of my friends was about to enter her second year of vet school there, and my husband and I decided to wait until the school year began so that Sue could keep an eye on Cheyenne during the week when we left her for testing. We also needed to save some money since the tests and surgery would cost a minimum of $1,500, if there were no complications. In the meantime, we watched Cheyenne carefully, hoping she’d hold her own until we could get her help.

Seizures + Hot Spots

As though the seizures weren’t bad enough, Cheyenne had also developed some bad “hot spots.” These were places she would lick continuously until they became red and raw. Ladybird was also licking herself, especially her paws, for hours at a time.

Our vet asked what we were feeding the dogs. I had started Cheyenne on Science Diet as a puppy, but Ladybird would eat all the puppy food while Cheyenne would eat the generic brand food my husband bought for Ladybird. By this time I had them both on Pedigree Lamb and Rice, which I thought was a good dry dog food.

The vet suggested we try giving them a Eukaneuba prescription formula for allergies. The food was expensive – $42 for a 35-pound bag – and they were going through two bags a month. It did help the “hot spots” clear up, however, and made their coats smoother and softer.

About a week after starting on the new food, Cheyenne had a seizure; happily, it seems to have been her last. Months went by, summer became fall, and still no seizure. We were definitely on to something with the food. I postponed the trip to A&M.

When I started them on the new food, I had also stopped giving the dogs commercial dog treats, like Milk Bones and Beggin’ Strips. After several months with no hot spots, the vet suggested I could reintroduce these treats, so I did.

Ladybird was thrilled to have her treats back. So was Cheyenne, but 24 hours after her first treats, she was licking brand-new “hot spots.” The treats went into the trash.

Following this last incident, I put all the pieces together; finally it was obvious to me that Cheyenne had a serious food allergy!

Food Switching

Toward the end of 1998, I subscribed to this publication. One of my first issues carried a review of better quality dry dog foods. One, California Natural, sounded like it was tailor made for my sensitive dog. With just four ingredients – all whole, real foods – it would be nutritious and digestible, with much less risk of setting off Cheyenne’s allergies.

I called the manufacturer and tracked down a distributor in my area. Now for the acid test – would my fussy dogs eat it?

They loved it. There was never a problem at meal time, yet I noticed that I filled their bowls less often (my dogs just eat when they’re hungry; if they’re not hungry they leave the food until they’re ready for it).

A 36-pound bag was about $35, slightly less expensive that the prescription food, but it lasted longer since my dogs ate less of it. Best of all, Cheyenne continued to be seizure-free, her coat had never felt better, and she had loads of energy.

Quality Food Benefits All Dogs

Meanwhile, Ladybird seems to be benefiting from the improved diet as well. She even slimmed down a bit, going from 81 pounds to 76 pounds, while showing more energy.

Ladybird is now 12 years old, and, prior to our food switch, was starting to have trouble getting up steps or even out of bed. She had been my husband’s dog for most of her life, during which time he gave her the most inexpensive dog foods because he thought all dog food was the same. I started giving her vitamin C, which definitely helped her feel better. With the introduction of the California Natural food, she is running and chasing rabbits with Cheyenne, and you’d never know that just two years ago she needed steroid shots to get around.

There is no doubt in my mind that changing Cheyenne’s diet put an end to her seizures and her hot spots. It save her from a surgery she didn’t need, and saved me a lot of angst and money.

California Natural also makes treats from the same ingredients as the dry food, and both my dogs love them. I still have to be very careful about giving Cheyenne anything else, however. Recently I started Ladybird on a supplement with glucosamine, yeast, biotin, bee pollen, and bovine cartilage to help her aging joints. I gave them to Cheyenne, too, and within a week she had “hot spots” again. It was probably the yeast that did it. So even “good” things may be bad for her. But now that I know how sensitive she is to what she eats, I can quickly alter her diet to keep her healthy.

Rona Distenfeld is a freelance writer from Florence, Texas. 

Identifying and Treating Bloat in Dogs Before It’s Too Late

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Gastric dilatation-volvulus, or “bloat” for short, is a feared disease among many dog owners. I have worked as an emergency veterinarian and have observed first-hand the horrible effects of this condition on a number of my patients, and I can certainly attest to its devastating effects.

Knowing what bloat is, and learning to recognize its clinical signs early is important for all dog owners so you can ensure prompt treatment before simple bloat progresses to irreversible and fatal whole body shock. Certain dogs are more likely to become a victim of this horrible stomach disorder, so it helps to know what those breeds are in case your dog is one of the more statistically likely candidates for the illness. And finally, it also helps to know how it is treated, and whether there are any preventive measures that can be taken to keep your dog from ever becoming a victim of bloat.

What is Bloat in Dogs?

giant breeds prone to bloat

The technical term for bloat is gastric dilatation. Simply put, this means the stomach dilates and enlarges. The main constituent of this dilation is air, although food and water are usually present in the stomach as well. This makes bloat quite different from a simple case of over-eating, where the pet engorges on food and the stomach fills rapidly with the last meal eaten.

Why does the stomach fill rapidly with air? The main cause seems to be aerophagia, where the pet literally swallows a large amount of air. Most commonly this is from eating too quickly. Unfortunately, for some reason, the air is not passed into the intestines or belched back out the esophagus. No one knows what causes the stomach to retain air.

Another theory is that after eating, some pets swallow air as they exercise, causing the stomach to bloat. While many doctors advise clients not to allow their dogs to exercise immediately after eating, I do not know of any controlled studies that show conclusive proof that exercise restriction prevents bloat. In many of my patients there was no history of exercise immediately after eating that contributed to the bloating. And since wild dogs and their ancestors (wolves) may need to be on the move after a meal (although, given the chance they usually rest to digest their food and recover from the recent kill), I doubt that exercise is a major factor in bloating. Still, until evidence proves otherwise, many veterinarians discourage exercise for 30-60 minutes after eating.

One of the myths regarding bloat is that only large dogs can develop bloat. It is true that bloat is more commonly found in large and giant breed dogs and deep chested dogs, usually two to 10 years old. The most commonly affected dogs include Great Danes, German Shepherds, Saint Bernards, Labrador Retrievers, Irish Wolfhounds, Great Pyrenees, Boxers, Weimaraners, Old English Sheepdogs, Irsih Setters, Bloodhounds, and Standard Poodles. However, any dog can develop bloat.

Another myth involves feeding your dog from a raised bowl as a way to prevent bloat. Feeding from a raised bowl can be very helpful in some dogs with a disorder called megaesophagus (where the dog repeatedly vomits up his food because the food has difficulty passing into the stomach). However, I have not seen anything in the veterinary literature that confirms that a high feeding table can prevent bloat (although, as you’ll see, there are some things you can do to minimize the chance of your dog bloating).

Some owners feel that feeding only cereal-based foods will cause bloat, or that dogs eating raw diets will not bloat. It is true that cereal-based foods ferment more in the gastrointestinal tract, which can cause excess gas, but this occurs further along in the intestinal tract (mainly the large intestine.) The only thing I have seen repeatedly suggested in the literature is that excess calcium in the diet, and excess air being ingested with the diet, may contribute to bloating in some dogs. Dogs can develop bloat no matter what diet is fed.

Bloating is a Life-Threatening Condition

Regardless of the actual cause, bloating in dogs is one of the few true emergencies in veterinary medicine. Dogs can and do die if not treated promptly. As I’ve mentioned, with bloat the stomach fills with air that it cannot expel. The bloated stomach compresses blood vessels in the stomach wall and abdominal cavity, causing hypovolemic shock. In severe cases, this bloated stomach can actually twist on its longitudinal axis. This twisting or torsion is called volvulus. As the stomach twists, it may pull the spleen with it, causing torsion of the spleen. If not treated promptly, both the spleen and stomach will die as the twisting cuts off the blood supply to these organs. Treatment involves decompression of the air-filled stomach and surgery to reposition the stomach if rotation occurs.

In an emergency case of bloat, pressure may be quickly relieved by inserting a large gauge needle (14-18 gauge) through the skin and right into the bloated stomach. This is only temporary treatment, but it does buy time and give the dog quite a bit of relief. After this temporary needle decompression, the dog is lightly anesthetized with an intravenous anesthetic (due to the shocky condition of most patients, less than half of a normal dose of anesthetic is usually all that is necessary to cause anesthesia).

Then two tubes are passed into the dog’s mouth: one goes into the trachea (windpipe) and one goes down the esophagus into the stomach. The stomach tube will be used to “pump the stomach,” removing food, water, and any remaining air. The tracheal tube is used to protect the airway so that no food or water accidentally enters the lungs. Other conventional therapies that may be used include IV fluids and corticosteroids (for shock) and antibiotics to prevent secondary infections. Homeopathic therapies such as Arnica can be used in the post-operative period to assist healing, and acupuncture can be used for pain control.

Surgery for Bloated Dogs

Dogs with volvulus will require surgery. Surgery has two objectives: to assess the damage done to the stomach, spleen, and other organs, and to reposition the stomach into the proper position. Stomachs that sustain severe damage cannot be repaired, and these patients must be euthanized. Stomachs with mild damage can usually heal after repositioning. Veterinarians hope that the surgery prevents future occurrences, as well.

The techniques to reposition the stomach is called a gastropexy, and involves literally sewing the stomach to some part of the body. Most commonly a circumcostal gastropexy is performed. In this technique, the stomach is sewn to the rib cage. The surgery is quite effective in preventing future episodes of volvulus, but no surgery can prevent bloating.

Owners of larger breed dogs (who might be prone to bloat and volvulus) have asked me about the feasibility of performing a gastropexy to prevent any episodes of bloating. I advise against this for several reasons:

• We can’t prevent bloat with this surgery, only the torsion (volvulus) that can accompany episodes of bloat.

• While nothing is guaranteed, following certain prevention tips can help reduce the incidence of bloat.

• I prefer not to subject pets to the inherent risk of unnecessary surgeries.

• I have seen no evidence that this prophylactic approach is worthwhile since gastric dilatation volvulus may never occur in any given pet.

If you are considering such a prophylactic surgery, I would advise you to talk with your veterinarian and carefully consider all options first.

Preventing Dogs from Bloat

This is one of those conditions where prevention is much preferred to treatment. While there is no 100 percent effective prevention, here are the guidelines I use in my practice.

• Avoid feeding your dog too much calcium. Many supplements contain calcium. If you are feeding your dog more than one type of supplement, check the labels carefully and “do the math” the determine how much calcium he receives from his diet and supplements.

• Feed small, frequent meals (2-4 meals per day). It’s a hassle, but the payoff is worth it. (There are some trainers who never feed their dogs out of a bowl, but who feed their dog its food as rewards for doing certain requested behaviors!)

• For dogs who tend to gulp their food, try placing large bricks or rocks in the food bowl. This forces the dog to eat around these obstacles, and slows the eating. Also check out these tips to slow down a fast eater from Dogster.

• No exercise for 30-60 minutes after a meal, and nothing hard (no hard running or playing.)

Because bloat is a true emergency, I encourage owners to be prepared at home. Ask your doctor for several large gauge needles to add to your first aid kit, and have the doctor show you how to properly perform needle decompression. This technique could save your pet’s life!

Dr. Shawn Messonnier is a holistic veterinarian in Plano, Texas.

Whole Dog Journal Reviews “Dry Shampoos” and “Waterless Baths”

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I don’t want to admit that I am lazy – but I am very busy – and dog baths sometimes have a way of slipping toward the bottom of the priority list. I have occasionally picked up one or more of the several “dry shampoo” or “waterless bath” products on the shelves of my local pet supply store and contemplated trying them out. I always told myself that they had to be too good to be true, and placed them back on the shelves.

So when Whole Dog Journal decided to test these dog cleaning and coat conditioner products, I leaped at the chance, only to confirm what I had suspected all along. The tempting lure of successfully cleansing your dog without good ol’ soap, water, and elbow grease is, indeed, too good to be true. The vast majority of dry shampoo and coat conditioner products contain chemical ingredients that we simply refuse to use on our dogs. Those few products that do contain natural, non-toxic ingredients may temporarily make your dog smell better, but fail to produce the soft, silky, shiny coat and pink skin of a truly clean dog.

We checked with holistic veterinarian Terry Spencer, DVM, of the Animal Health Center in Salinas, California. She said, “I have never used a dry shampoo. I just don’t see the point. They certainly can’t take the place of a real bath. Well, maybe if someone’s dog has just had surgery and can’t have a bath and has an odor problem . . . but then we should figure out why there’s an odor problem, shouldn’t we, and treat that?”

The list of acceptable products is dismally short. If nothing else, our research reminded us that just because a product calls itself “natural” doesn’t necessarily mean that it is! Always remember to check labels for ingredients. If they aren’t listed, call the manufacturer. If they won’t tell you what’s in the product, pass it up, no matter how tempting it appears. In our experience, companies that produce truly safe and natural products are more than happy to advertise their ingredients.

Just in case you still think you want to try a waterless shampoo anyway, here are our results.

WDJ’s Top Picks
Sorry, there isn’t one. We don’t feel that any of the products live up to the promise of a truly clean, deodorized dog. Some are better than others, but none of the products we checked out come anywhere close to the results of a real bath.

Urine Trouble

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My 2-1/2 year old spayed female Akita is showing a pattern of recurring bladder infections. An ultrasound showed scar tissue from a long-term infection before I adopted her from a rescue group. When she gets an infection, there is blood in her urine and the pH is 9.0.

I understand there is a chicken and egg argument about the high pH and infections. Is there anything that will help lower the pH of her urine and make her less prone to infection, or is the high pH more likely just a result of the infection?

-Jim Price
Raleigh, NC

 

We turned over this question to Dr. Nancy Scanlan, a veterinarian for 28 years, who has integrated holistic medicine into her practice for 11 years. Dr. Scanlan is also a prolific writer, authoring a column for Natural Pet for two years as well as a book, “Stop That Itch!” Dr. Scanlan’s practice is located in Sherman Oaks, California.

Let’s define some terms before I address your specific questions. You sound well versed in the terminology of urinary tract infections, but for the benefit of others who may be earlier in their education about this multi-faceted problem, allow me to review.

Urine is formed by the kidneys, and stored in the bladder before being excreted. Urine is 95 percent water, and it’s function is carrying the waste products of metabolism out of the body. Those waste products make up the other five percent of the urine, which is normally composed of dissolved urea, uric acid, mineral salts, toxins, and other waste products. Urine that contains red or white blood cells, protein, a large number of crystals, bacteria, yeast cells, or parasites, indicates an infection or other health problem.

The normal pH for dog urine is around 6 to 6.5. A pH of 7.0 is neutral (neither acid nor alkaline). A “high pH” refers to something above 7.0 and is considered alkaline. A “low pH” is something under 7.0 and is considered acid. Some people consider 7.0, which is neutral, to be normal for dogs, though, as I’ll explain in a moment, I prefer the urine to be a little lower (more acidic). If it is already at a pH 6 to 6.5, I’d leave it alone. You don’t want it more acid than that.

The classic sign of a urinary tract infection is frequent urination of small amounts. However, this can also be a sign of chronic bladder inflammation without infection; many people aren’t aware that these are two separate issues. If your dog has to urinate frequently, but only passes tiny amounts of urine each time, you must take him to a veterinarian for a urinalysis. This will determine whether you are really dealing with a chronic bladder infection, as opposed to chronic bladder inflammation without infection. This can be accomplished only with a sterile urine culture obtained with a bladder tap; you can’t just catch some urine and take it in. This is important, because the treatment for each condition will be different.

Next, the pH of the urine must be tested. As you suggested, a high pH can make a dog more prone to urinary tract infections, but the high pH can also be the result of an infection. Some dogs chronically produce alkaline (high pH) urine, and it has been my experience that these animals are more prone to chronic infections – but not all of them are. On the other hand, dogs with chronically low pH urine (too acidic) are prone to oxalate crystals.

Crystals and stones can hurt
The urine should also be checked for the presence of any crystals, which are simply minerals that have bonded together. When enough crystals bond, they can completely or partially block the excretion of urine, which is painful and very dangerous for the dog; they can also form stones, an advanced form of the crystals.

There are a number of different types of urinary crystals. The most common are struvite or struvite/apatite “infection stones,” which are actually caused by the presence of certain bacteria in the urinary tract. Dogs who have neutral or alkaline urine tend to get struvite crystals, but fortunately, a diet that helps acidify the urine can help dissolve these crystals. In contrast, oxalate crystals are more common in dogs with acidic urine. Unfortunately, they are not easily dissolved with dietary and pH adjustments.

Finally, you need to determine whether their urine is concentrated or dilute. If it is very concentrated, it will help everything to make it more dilute. You can accomplish this by adding a pinch of salt to their diet or finding ways to add water to the diet. Some people make all their dogs’ meals soupy to force greater intake of fluids. Make sure she always has fresh, clean, water wherever she is.

Chronic infections
I’m assuming that a proper urinalysis was performed on your dog, and the presence of blood or pus indicated that the dog did in fact have an infection. If the problem is truly a recurring infection, the goal is to treat the infection, and then concentrate on boosting the dog’s entire immune system so that he or she can better battle the bacteria in the future.

It’s critical to give the animal antibiotics as soon as possible when they have an infection. This will help prevent the formation of struvite crystals, as well as reduce the odds of the dog developing scar tissue in the urinary tract. Scar tissue does leave a dog more susceptible to more infections, for two reasons. One is that if there is a lot of scar tissue then often they cannot fully contract the bladder, so it will not empty all the way, and leftover urine in the bladder gives bacteria a perfect medium for growth. Also, scar tissue creates little nooks and crannies where bacteria can grow.

Cranberry extract has been proven to be very helpful in preventing infections in dogs that are prone to them. Cranberry helps prevent bacteria from attaching to the wall of the bladder, and it also slightly acidifies the urine. It’s also good because its action is not extreme; it doesn’t make the urine excessively acid. However, I wouldn’t give cranberry to a dog whose urine had a high acidity (a number lower than 6.0); you don’t want to make the urine more acid than that.

I suggest that people use cranberry extract capsules, the kind they can get from the health food store. Cranberry juice is inadequate for this job; you couldn’t feed a dog enough juice to get the job done.

The strength of the capsules vary, so check the label, but generally, the standardized capsules provide 300 mg. of cranberry extract. For little dogs, under 35 pounds, I’d suggest a half a capsule twice a day until the urine is more acid; the bigger guys can get a whole capsule twice a day. If the dog has an infection, keep the dose relatively high until the infection is gone, then reduce it to a maintenance dose.

Some animals, once you get things under control, only need the cranberry right at the very signs of the beginning of infection. Other dogs do better if they receive a low dose all the time. A low dose would be a quarter capsule twice a day for animals up to about 25 pounds, a half capsule twice a day for 25 pounds to 60 pounds, and the really big guys could get a whole capsule twice a day. In cases of extreme infection, they may need three doses a day. At the beginning of an infection, you’d want to give your big dog a relatively high dose; she’s such a big dog, she could have two capsules three times a day at the beginning.

An immune-boosting campaign should include herbal and nutritional supplements – especially some antioxidants like Vitamin C and E. You also have to take a long, hard look at the dog’s diet, and determine whether it is contributing to the dog’s overall health and vitality or not. You might also consider some herbal support. Echinacea supports immune function and kills bacteria. Plus, it doesn’t affect the urine pH – which is good, because then it can be given to a dog with any pH.

When it’s not an infection
There are a lot of dogs who show symptoms of infection – such as urinating tiny amounts very frequently, and whining or yelping in pain when they urinate – without having an infection; no bacteria, blood, or pus can be found in their urine. Usually, I find that animals with chronic irritation (without infection) have neutral to alkaline urine. Increasing the acidity of the urine usually helps the problem. However, if oxalate crystals are present, you don’t want to increase the acidity very much. You can take it up to the neutral point, but you shouldn’t go past that.

Again, cranberry extract is very helpful for slightly increasing the acidity of the urine. Apple cider vinegar is also great for acidifying the urine (you can give one teaspoon to one tablespoon twice a day for a 50-pound dog). So is methionine, which is an amino acid. Generally, the dosage for methionine would be about 100 mg, twice a day for animals up to 20 pounds; 200 mg. twice a day for dogs up to 60 pounds or even larger. Many large or giant dogs do well on 200 mg. twice a day, others may need as much as 500 mg. twice a day. You want to try to use the smallest dose at which you get the results you want, and you need to use the urine tests to determine the optimum dosage.

You will hear the claim that Hills CD diet is the only thing that will help her, because Hills CD acidifies the urine. If the dog has neutral or alkaline urine, acidifying the urine can help, whether you do it with Hills CD or a specially formulated homemade diet. Meat products also acidify the urine. (Curiously, a diet high in citrus fruits, vegetables, or dairy products will increase the alkalinity of the urine.)

Also, you should make these changes only assisted by urine tests. Doing it blindly will get you into trouble, because supplements that can make an animal a teensy bit more acid or a teensy bit more alkaline will cause extreme changes for the next animal.

These changes should definitely be done with the help of a veterinarian, and the regular use of home pH testing kits. And be aware that there are a few animals that won’t respond – either with a more acid pH or a more dilute urine – no matter what you do; it’s just how their bodies work.

Inflammation and stones
One final caution: I have also seen chronic inflammation and stones in animals that were being given too many mineral supplements. In one case I saw, a woman was using a commercially prepared natural diet, which had calcium in it, but she was also gave the dog supplemental calcium and a trace mineral supplement – which happened to be mostly calcium.

Of course, the dog developed stones. She took the dog to a veterinarian who prescribed medication to make the urine more acid. But then the dog developed stones from the urine being too acid. It didn’t matter what they did, it kept getting stones and inflammation both. Incidentally, they are much more likely to get stones if they have chronic inflammation.

Finally the woman brought the dog to me, and I asked to see the diet. I also asked her what other supplements she was giving the dog, and the long list came out. The point is, you shouldn’t over-supplement with minerals.

Out For Blood

In the October 1999 issue, Dr. Ian Dunbar discussed some training options to deal with female dogs that squabbled constantly. One of his first questions to an owner in this situation, he said, is “Have you ever had to take one to the vet for stitches after a fight?” The answer in the situation he addressed in that issue was “No.” However, we’ve had a number of questions from people whose answer to that question was, “YES!” In this issue, Dr. Dunbar offers his suggestions for dealing with dogs (in a multi-dog household) who fight to the point of injury and bloodshed.

 

In the last issue, I limited my advice to cases where dogs that live together are fighting, but they don’t do any real damage to each other. This month, I’ll deal with an entirely different question.

If your dogs are fighting, and are causing severe damage to each other – or one dog is causing severe damage to another – I’m sorry to say that you are dealing with the most difficult of all canine behavior problems, the one with the worst possible prognosis. Your options are extremely limited, because the treatment really should have happened when the dog was 4 1/2 months old, which is when dogs normally learn bite inhibition.

Short window of opportunity
Bite inhibition is without a doubt the single most important thing that dogs learn. It is even more important than learning to become socialized to people and other dogs, which is the second most important thing that young puppies should learn, generally before they are three months old and reinforced throughout their lives.

Bite inhibition is a learned response whereby the dog consciously and strongly inhibits the full force of his biting power. Most dogs display bite inhibition when they are playing together, but also when they fight; if a dog does not have bite inhibition, he could easily hurt or even kill another dog in a fight. You’ll notice that even when most dogs fight, it looks and sounds perfectly awful, but neither dog walks away bloody. This is due to bite inhibition.

Dogs who are given the opportunity to be properly socialized by other dogs and people learn bite inhibition in the process of playing and roughhousing as puppies. When a puppy bites another dog in play, the other dog tends to either YELP! loudly and/or leaps up and knocks the puppy over with a loud bark or growl; a bitten dog also tends to leave the game. This teaches the puppy that all the fun ends when he bites too hard.

By the way, this is the single most important reason that puppies should go to puppy class. If they are like most puppies, their veterinarians have suggested that they stay in social isolation from strange dogs for a month (giving their vaccinations time to establish protection from disease), and the puppy class is the best thing to get them play fighting and mouthing and biting each other again. Here they learn that gentle bites prolong the play session, and they’re a lot of fun, and that hard bites stop the play session because the “bitee” wants some time out to lick its wounds.

People can use the same tack to teach their puppies bite inhibition. If a pup bites you too hard, yelp loudly and walk away from the puppy; it’s a very effective method. What you don’t want to do is to try to get the puppy to stop biting altogether. The first goal should be to teach the dog to inhibit the force of its bite, then reduce the frequency. If you teach the puppy never to put its jaws on you at all, when it does happen (say, an accident where the dog’s paw gets stepped on), the dog will react with an over-strong bite because it never learned that a softer bite will suffice.

The reason why bite inhibition is more important than socialization is because no matter how hard you try to socialize a dog to people or other dogs, there are going to be times when it is not sufficient. For example, someone shuts the dog’s tail in the car door, or your socialized dog is attacked, very painfully, by another dog. In these incidents, your dog will normally respond by biting, whether it’s out of provocation or self-defense. Whether or not your dog does damage is pretty much pre-ordained by the level of bite inhibition that was established before it was 4 1/2 months old.

Without a doubt, the dog’s level of bite inhibition is the single most important prognostic factor which determines whether or not a fighting problem is easily resolved, or extremely difficult and potentially dangerous to even consider resolving. And a dog who has a record of attacking and actually hurting another dog clearly has a very low level of inhibition. It’s really a shame; his life is going to be much less pleasant than other dogs’ lives.

Put a muzzle on it
Bite inhibition can be taught to a dog later in life, but it’s one of the most time-consuming, difficult, and potentially dangerous things to teach an adult dog. It is much easier to teach bite inhibition toward people, because it is very easy for a trainer to pad himself up in a full body suit with a Kevlar sleeve and let the dog mouth and bite him, in order to teach it that gentle biting is appropriate, and harder bites are not appropriate. However, it is next to impossible, and certainly not fair, to do this with other dogs. Knowing that your dog mutilates other dogs, how can you set your dog up with another dog? You can’t.

Basically, your options are limited to controlling the problem, using hefty amounts of common sense.

The first rule should be walk the dog on public property only when the dog is wearing a muzzle. It is just simply not fair to other dog owners to take an unmuzzled dog out knowing that it does not have sufficient bite inhibition to protect other dogs. I’ve heard people say, “Well, he doesn’t attack other dogs; I can control him.” The fault with that line of thinking is that another dog might attack him, and get grievously injured, and I would consider that YOUR fault, even though the other dog started it. Dogs with good bite inhibition can get in scuffles and no harm is done. Of course, you’d hope that the owners of other dogs could control their dogs, but you can’t count on it. Muzzle your dog when in public to protect all concerned.

Muzzle technology has improved quite a bit in recent years. I like the open-ended muzzles like the one on the dog in the photo above; several companies make very similar models. These are soft but strong fabric (usually nylon) muzzles that control the dog’s biting, but are open in the very front to allow the dog to drink, lick his lips, and accept a treat. Since the goal is to train the dog to enjoy the company of other dogs, and to behave appropriately (sit, settle down, and be calm), wearing a muzzle that allows him to take treats (while keeping him from biting, of course) is critically important.

Learning to get along
You can live with these dogs permanently separated, juggling them around from room to room, but it’s a fairly difficult thing to do in most houses! But with the muzzle, you can now consider bringing the dogs together at times. However, I would insist on muzzling both dogs; it’s only fair. If you allow the good dog to bite your muzzled dog, you will only reinforce in his mind that the other dog should be bitten.

Now, with the dogs muzzled, you can start some very simple exercises to begin to condition the biting dog to begin associating the presence of the other dog with good things, not bad things. Put the (muzzled) biter on a leash, and sit down on the sofa, petting the dog. Have someone else enter the room with the other (also muzzled) dog, and then leave after a few moments. Have the other dog and person repeatedly enter and leave the room.

You are going to give the biting dog two types of feedback. When the other dog leaves, you totally ignore it. When the other dog comes in, you praise your dog and offer it pieces of kibble and maybe treats, even if he’s growling and putting his hair up.

But wait, you say! Isn’t that going to train the dog to growl and put its hair up? According to the laws of operant conditioning (the dog growls and it gets a treat), the growling is likely to increase in frequency. However, the growling doesn’t exist on its own; the dog is growling for a reason. If you give the dog a piece of kibble when the other dog comes in, you are classically conditioning the dog to form a positive association with the other dog’s entry and presence. Whenever you are training a dog in these two ways, the operant conditioning is temporary; the classical conditioning will win out. Eventually, the dog will form a positive association about the other dog, at which point he will cease to growl, because he has no reason to. So, I wouldn’t be too concerned with the fact that the dog is growling or has his hackles raised. The main thing you want the one dog to think is, “I don’t particularly like that dog, but I love it when he comes into the room, because my owner talks to me, pets me, and gives me kibble.”

For the next step, do the same exercise, but with the positions reversed. The other dog is in the room, and you enter and exit with the biting dog, giving him treats when you enter the room, and ignoring him when you leave.

Do not punish!
I should mention that the worst possible thing you can do – even if the dog growls and threatens the other dog – is to yank on the dog’s leash or spank it or yell at it. If you constantly reprimand the dog whenever another dog is present, you will reinforce your dog’s negative feelings for other dogs! Think about it! I suspect that this is 90 percent of the reason why dogs fight. Initially a dog fights because he meets another dog that he doesn’t like. But then he quickly learns that when other dogs approach, his owner gets upset, sweats, her heart rate goes up, and she shouts and jerks the leash. So the dog learns to try to keep other dogs away. He sees another dog and he says, “Get away, get away, don’t come close! My owner is unreliable around other dogs!”

I would like to add that in my video about training dogs that fight, at one point, I actually do raise my voice and reprimand a dog. This is one of those unfortunate things that can happen when you are trying to make a television program and working with two very difficult dogs and the producer is saying, “Hurry up and get something done!”

I fully regret departing from my usual training methods in order to accommodate the television crew; I would never do it again, no matter what the production crew wants. If they don’t have the patience to wait around for the result, then they won’t get it on film.

 

-By Dr. Ian Dunbar

Dr. Dunbar’s newest instructional videos, “Dog Aggression: Biting,” and “Dog Aggression: Fighting,” discuss all aspects of dealing with aggressive dogs.

Questioning Vaccinations

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Regarding your article on vaccination (“Current Thoughts on Shots,” WDJ August 1999): Thank you for confirming my belief that its the excessive challenging of the dog’s immune system that is responsible for so many auto-immune disorders.

I am a non-practicing LVT in New York state and I have three dogs, two of whom have autoimmune disorders. I used to vaccinate religiously, and even brought the vaccines home to administer them.

My 10-year-old Standard Poodle has seizure disorder (idiopathic). We’ve had a brain scan and all kinds of tests, under the supervision of a neurological specialist. All results were negative – no brain tumor or old lesion of the brain. The seizures started abruptly about a month after I vaccinated him. I was working at an animal emergency clinic at the time, and a few weekends prior to his first seizure, we had no fewer than 12 seizuring dogs come into the clinic in a 48-hour period, whereas we usually had less than one each weekend. Bad batch of vaccines that year?

My other dog, a four-year-old Bichon, developed AIHA and very nearly died last October. He was vaccinated in the spring before this episode, and he had an allergic reaction – we had to rush him to the emergency clinic for a shot of Benadryl. I truly believe that it was the vaccine that caused both these reactions – and it included bordetella, which he’d never had before. He was not vaccinated this year. We did a titer and it was fine. I doubt that I will ever vaccinate him again, except for rabies every three years.

I am seriously considering not vaccinating my Poodle any longer, especially after reading your article. And my healthy (though itchy) Bichon will probably go on a reduced vaccination schedule; we’ll be testing titers on all three dogs come spring. Thank you for the article and Dr. Dodds’ vaccination schedule. I hope they start teaching this in vet school and vet tech programs.

-Kathleen Foley, LVT
via email

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I live in Scotland, but a friend sent me your article on vaccinations. This issue is also being discussed in Britain. My interest in this is because my favorite breed is Cavalier King Charles Spaniels. I’ve collected the pedigrees of around 90 Cavaliers who have had heart trouble (about 50 percent of King Charles Spaniels suffer from heart murmurs by five years of age). A number of the dogs whose pedigrees I have, and who come from fairly inbred American stock, had their heart trouble within about a month of having their vaccinations. Some died shortly afterward.

When the Cavalier breed was getting established in the 1930s and 1940s, it was not uncommon to breed mothers to sons, fathers to daughters, brothers to sisters. It’s a fact that inbreeding tends to weaken the immune system. Some Cavaliers are born with a lesser immune competence; others are stable and competent enough to withstand the challenge of their vaccinations.

It’s also been published in veterinary literature that adverse reactions to vaccination are generally uncommon, and thought to be more prevalent in certain breeds. I think that Cavalier breeders should give great thought to their vaccination programs, especially in lines that suffer from heart conditions.

-Bet Hargreaves
Thankerton, Scotland

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We just wanted to let you know how much we enjoy your journal. Our human reads it from cover to cover as soon as it arrives. We’ve experienced a lot of new things like whole fresh chopped garlic and Ester C. We loved the whole fresh food idea but we needed some time to assimilate and therefore the other end result was not pretty. We were constantly asking to go out or leaving deposits which she did not greet with a smile. She changed back to the best dry food she could find as per your article. We’re doing fine now.

The reason we are taking the time to bark this note to you is your “Grooming for the Look of Love” article (WDJ July 1999). Now, she always grooms with love but this time she marched out to the barn and borrowed that Grooma curry from the horses. She first tried it on Gwenie, my adopted sister, a sort of German Shepherd. Gwenie is very sensitive about combs and usually displays her dislike for this ritual. This time, however, she rolled from side to side with glee and stretched her legs out for more! Of course our human (her name is Ava) was delighted.

I thought, “What About Me?” I’m a male Collie/Malamute mix. My turn came and I showed my joy by placing my paw on her arm and showering her with kisses. She even tried it on the finicky cat! Purring could be heard far and wide! So, keep up the good work. We appreciate it as much as she does.

-Jake and Gwenie Eskin
via email

Doing it for the Dogs

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Not too long ago, I finally gave up my membership in a health club. I say, “finally,” because I had been threatening my family with the impending loss of their health club privileges for many moons. If they didn’t start getting over to the club more often, I’d warn, I’m cancelling the contract. Of course, that’s not really fair to my seven-year-old son, who is always up for a swim in the club pool – or better yet, a soak in the outdoor hot tub; if he could drive himself across town for what he calls “a fun bath,” he would do it every day.

But neither my husband nor I have made it to the club in the last month – not once! We’ve both been hideously busy with work, but still – not even once? After briefly contemplating what that month’s dues could have bought us instead, I called up and cancelled.

But I’m not giving up on exercise. Instead, I’ve developed a plan, a program that will help peel me away from the computer, put some miles on my running shoes, and keep me immersed in the world of dogs.

In an article entitled, “Brother, Can You Spare an Hour?” in the January 1999 issue of WDJ, writer Dan Hoye described dozens of ways that people could help dogs by volunteering at their local animal shelters. One method in particular caught my fancy: walking the most restless and exuberant dogs. The idea was to help tire them out so they weren’t bouncing off the sides of their runs, to help them present themselves in the best possible light for potential adopters.

Adding pressure to do a good deed for dogs was a sidebar accompanying Hoye’s article, contributed by Pat Miller, WDJ’s “super-writer” and dog training expert, and a woman with more than 20 years’ experience as an animal control officer. Miller wrote:

 

Volunteering at an animal shelter can be challenging, demanding, and stressful. It can also be incredibly rewarding. Your efforts make shelter dogs more comfortable, increase their adoption potential, and give them a second chance for a loving home.

But you won’t be able to save them all. Animals are euthanized at shelters every day for lack of space, and for disease, injuries, and behavior problems. While you celebrate because the Shepherd mix puppy you fostered just got a second chance for life in a new home, you also accept that the dog you walked yesterday might be killed today. But whether the dog you walked yesterday is euthanized today or adopted tomorrow, you will know that by spending time with him, you improved his chances for adoption and helped make his stay at the shelter a happier one.

 

I have to say that in just a half-dozen visits to my local shelter so far, I have experienced the celebration and the sadness Miller spoke about. I was thrilled to hear that the excitable Dalmatian I walked on my first day had been taken home by a nice lady – and who also took the advice I had noted on the dog’s kennel card and arrived with a head collar! (We featured these amazing and gentle training tools in March 1998, our very first issue of WDJ.) But I was dismayed to hear that another of my first-day dogs, an affectionate but rowdy Pointer mix, the one with an infected ear and what appeared to be a ready-to-bloom case of mange, had been deemed too much of an adoption challenge, and had been euthanized. At least he had enjoyed one last long walk in the sunshine, and a dozen or so treats, before he was sent to the Bridge. It’s something I’d like to do on my last day on earth.

-N.K.

Dog Water Dispensers

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We all need it to survive. Most states have laws requiring us to provide “adequate” supplies of it to our dogs. If we don’t provide it we could be prosecuted for animal cruelty and our dogs could suffer, even die, of thirst. “It,” of course, is water. With all of my dogs I sometimes feel like I spend half of my day cleaning and refilling water bowls, both indoors and out. Isn’t there a better way?

WDJ thought so. We searched high and low for watering systems that would provide a larger, if not constant, supply of fresh water to our dogs. We selected for testing eight products that seemed to best represent the range of types of delivery systems available. We examined how easy they were to use (from both dog and human perspectives), as well as their sturdiness and reliability. We found a huge range in product quality, price, and effectiveness.

NOTE: While a steady supply of fresh, clean water is necessary for dogs year-round, it is of critical importance in the summer. We examined these products specifically for use in warm weather (or indoor use). Below-freezing temperatures will undermine, if not negate, the effectiveness of any water delivery system. Frozen water will prevent the dog from drinking, and can potentially cause plastic hoses and reservoirs to split, making the units inoperative. Consider all of these systems for warm weather or indoor use only; the old standby of a stainless steel bowl or bucket is probably your best bet for winter watering.

-By Pat Miller

Case of the Missing Hormones

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I think my four-year old Chesapeake Bay Retriever is developing an incontinence problem. She only seems to have a problem while she’s sleeping. She often leaves a puddle behind when she gets up. However, when she’s awake, we haven’t had any problems. She’s on a natural diet, gets plenty of exercise, and is not overweight. Why do dogs develop incontinence? Are there any natural remedies that I might try?

-Brenda Dinne
via email

We directed this question to Carolyn Blakey, DVM, of the Westside Animal Clinic in Richmond, Indiana. Dr. Blakey has been practicing veterinary medicine for 32 years, the last four in an all-holistic practice. She especially enjoys serving as a holistic veterinary consultant to clients all over the country.

Incontinence in spayed females is fairly common. The problem is caused by a lack of estrogen, which, of course, was brought about by the spay surgery. Many people assume that when females are spayed, the veterinarian simply “ties the tubes,” that is, cuts and ties off the fallopian tubes so that the ovum can not travel from the ovaries, down the fallopian tubes, and become fertilized. Actually, the veterinarian removes the ovaries and usually, the uterus, too. The reason for this is that you not only want the female to become incapable of becoming pregnant, but also, you want her not to exhibit symptoms of heat. The ovaries are where the majority of estrogen is produced. If you simply tie the fallopian tubes, the dog is still subject to the behavioral changes caused by the cyclic changes in estrogen levels. If you remove the ovaries, the center of estrogen production, the dog stops coming into heat.

But estrogen plays a significant role in maintaining the tonal quality of the urethra, the neck of the bladder. Without the estrogen, some dogs lose enough tonal quality that they can’t quite keep themselves from leaking. (This same phenomenon is why some elderly women suffer incontinence, post menopause; without estrogen, the tissues become inelastic.) The adrenal glands also produce a small amount of estrogen, and I would venture a guess that in the dogs who suffer incontinence, the adrenals produce a lower than usual amount of estrogen.

It used to be that the recommended treatment for incontinence in spayed females was to initiate hormone replacement therapy. However, this approach has the potential for causing more untoward symptoms that it solves. Namely, the dogs come back into heat; they exhibit all the signs we’re so not fond of! If you wanted to use the hormone replacement therapy, I would suggest enlisting the aid of a really good endocrinologist to help you dial in the dosage as precisely as possible.

I wish I could say that natural medicine has a great solution for the problem, but if it does, I haven’t found it yet. I’ve heard about all kinds of approaches, and sometimes I get lucky, and one of the approaches works, but it seems to be a very individual thing.

Sometimes, a glandular supplement seems to play a role in solving the problem. I happen to like the Standard Process line of supplements, and I have had some success with some dogs with their “Cataplex F,” a female glandular supplement. I have also had some clients report success with acupuncture on some of the acupuncture points that affect the reproductive system. One always thinks of Bladder 23, which is an association point for the kidneys and the whole reproductive system.

My favorite remedy is not from the holistic world, but then, it doesn’t cause as many side effects as the hormone replacement therapy. I use a drug called phenylpropanolamine, a decongestant. It stimulates the part of the nervous system that controls the smooth muscles and glands. It affects the alpha receptors within the mucosa of the respiratory tract, and the mucosa of the vaginal tract as well, helping the dog tighten and control the bladder muscles better.

You can purchase this drug inexpensively over the counter, and it doesn’t cause any significant side effects that I’ve seen. Ask your vet about the dosage for your dog, and good luck.

Speaking Up For Showing

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Sure there are a small percentage of people out there who want to win no matter what the cost. But for the most part the people that I meet at shows love and care about their dogs. In fact some of them care so much about their dogs, they forget about the breed! In 15 years of showing dogs, my dogs are always pets first, then show dogs.

We compete in obedience, conformation, agility, tracking and field. I would never consider hurting some one else’s dog to help my dog win, nor illegally alter my dog. My first dog ended up as a washout in both conformation and obedience. It didn’t matter, we spayed her and she lived to 15 (pretty long years for a Malamute). She was part of our family. My Weims have been successful in many fields, but their health and happiness comes first.

Show people aren’t all perfect, but most of them are pretty darn good people! I think the worst I have personally witnessed was someone who used grooming techniques to hide structural faults, or dying to cover color faults. Someone did once step on my dog (fortunately she wasn’t hurt) and occasionally some one displays bad sportsmanship. Peer pressure takes care of poor ringmanship. If you are responsible and you actually witness unethical activity then you talk to them about it or you report it. It is up to us to police our own sport.

-Patricia Riley
via email

 

Agility is more fun for me
I showed a little in conformation in the last few years, but quit because I didn’t enjoy it. I now compete solely in agility, which I do enjoy! Because I didn’t get too involved in conformation, I can only give my opinion on the dog’s happiness at being a show dog. Because their attitude and enthusiasm count a lot, along with their appearance, the dog must be happy! So, to me, showing seems like a positive thing for the dogs. Because I didn’t enjoy conformation showing, my dogs picked up on that, and they weren’t happy. A couple of judges commented on this!

I like agility; it always makes me happy to see happy dogs doing things with their people. Because this doesn’t involve the use of professional handlers and dogs being out on the show circuit for long periods, it’s much less stressful than a show dog’s life.

As for training, I attended a seminar recently with one of agility’s top trainers. To stress how this should be a positive, fun thing for the dog, he said you should never say “no” to your dog in agility training. When any of us absentmindedly said no to our dogs, we had to wear a dunce hat until we passed it along to the next person!

-Ellen Pauly
Gaffney, SC

 

AKC rules protect dogs
I have owned and shown various breeds since 1989; first Shelties, then Papillions, and now Chihuahuas.

In the last three years or so I have noticed many more people feeding raw meat and veggies to their show dogs, as well as using healthy supplements. Some do give their dogs drugs, but it is not that common. Homeopathic remedies, Bach Flower Essences, and other natural supplements for anxiety, fear and nervousness are becoming so common that some vendors at the shows sell them.

One thing that must be remembered is that show dogs who compete in conformation are judged on how they look and move (first impression), how they feel (a physical examination by the judge going over the dog with his hands), and how they act. If a dog is not in good physical condition, (if it is fed a cheap, poor quality diet with no supplements), or if a dog is in poor mental condition (unhappy, fearful, acting abused), chances are not very good that it will win. It is in the best interests of the owner/handler to have the show dog in top condition and abusive methods do not produce a happy show dog.

The AKC Obedience Regulations state that dogs who compete in obedience are also judged on how they perform and lose points if they act fearful or abused. “Lack of willingness or enjoyment on the part of the dog must be penalized as must . . . roughness in handling.” “A qualifying score must never be awarded to a . . . dog that shows fear . . . nor to a dog whose handler disciplines or abuses it in the ring.”

-Liz Moore, Diadem Chihuahuas
Newman Lake, WA

 

Show dogs get spoiled, but not abused
The vast majority of show dogs receive top care, food, medical attention, and are loved as members of the family. I don’t know of any instance where that is not the case, and I know quite a few dog people since I am active in a breed club (Labrador Retrievers) and our local all-breed club.

Show people spend a lot of money on their dogs and on dog-related items in general; just ask my grumbling husband! I suppose there are cases of mistreated dogs, but I’d venture to guess that you’ll find a much lower instance of that occurring in show people than in the general population.

-Kathryn Miele
via email

 

Members of our families
I show my dogs and have friends who have shown dogs for 30 years. Our dogs are important members of the family and are very cherished and loved. Anyone breeding dogs to make money are in it for the wrong reasons. I have learned that you breed to improve the breed’s qualities, not for money.

As for me I feel responsible to those pups as long as they live and try to stay in contact with the owners of my placed pups so I may help ensure they are safe and happy.

Those who show dogs using harmful drugs and/or are abusive are reprimanded by AKC and it’s not if they are caught, it’s a matter of when. This type of behavior is not acceptable nor will it ever be among show people.

-Teresa Miles, Lyonesse Kennels
Bellaire, MI

 

Rumors, but no evidence
I breed, show and love Welsh Terriers. I also own a Borzoi which I show, and I used to show and breed Australian Terriers. I have obtained championships in both obedience and conformation. My dogs are raised in my house. I have perhaps one litter per year. I spend more money on my dogs than I do on myself.

I have learned more about holistic dog care from show breeders than from anyone else. They seem to be more abreast of current research, trends, etc., regarding holistic care and supplements. There are exceptions, of course. Some old timers are more holistic with their dogs’ diets than you would imagine! They all have favorite recipes for homemade food and supplements and their dogs reflect these things in the show ring.

I have heard horrible tales that have never been substantiated – such as the use of arsenic for fuller coats, etc. But it seems to me that if the dog dies then you have lost even more money! So I cannot believe that these tales are true. I believe they are (in part) due to jealousies from competitors, etc. Sometimes, losers have nothing but bad to say about winners.

If you hear of a show person getting arrested for animal cruelty they probably had many dogs. Most animal enforcement officials do not act unless there are several dogs or animals involved. The show people are more in the public eye.

-Yancey Miller
via email

 

Average handlers are OK
I have been showing dogs in conformation and obedience since 1980. I am not a breeder or handler; I show my own dogs as a hobby, and have shown a few dogs for friends.

I believe the majority of people in the “sport of dogs” are like me – going about their hobby and having a good time. You won’t see our names on top ten lists or on TV at Westminster or in magazines. Most of us are not in what I would classify as the “super competitive” group.

I know of people I suspect of doing unscrupulous things and there are always rumors, but nothing I can prove. But I’m sure that just like any other competitive arena, there are people who will do anything to win. This includes cheating and doing things that are harmful to their dogs.

Unfortunately, people are people, and those who show dogs are no different than anyone else. While most people enjoy a chosen sport, some carry it to a destructive degree. Ask anyone who has ever watched the parents of Little League players!

I wish I could give you a guess as to a proportion of the bad competitors but I simply have no idea. There are so many people involved in showing in my area (Los Angeles) that I couldn’t even begin to have a passing knowledge of a small section of them.

In my own circle, a more behavioral approach to obedience training has certainly become more common. I’d guess that at least 50 percent of the obedience dogs in my group are trained using positive motivation. However, fewer people are aware of the benefits of a “healthful diet;” that will come along more slowly. I only know two people who feed raw-food diets to their dogs, but I also know more and more people who check dog food ingredients very carefully.

-Gina Grissom
via email

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