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Proper Identification Tags Can Save Your Dog’s Life

By
Nancy Kerns
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1

We can never say it often enough or loudly enough – proper identification can save your dog’s life. A dog license is required by law to be worn on your dog’s collar in most places in this country. Owner information from a license can usually be tracked through the local Animal Services agency or Health Department so the lost dog can be returned to his owner if he is picked up by an Animal Services Officer or turned over to an animal shelter by a helpful humanitarian. Obtaining your license in a timely manner can also save you money, since failure to do so can result in citations and fines.

Microchips and tattoos are two methods of providing your dog with permanent “backup” identification, and both have their benefits and drawbacks (see “Your Lost Dog’s Ticket Home,” WDJ November 1998).

However, a physical, visible ID tag that offers your current contact information is your lost dog’s first line of defense, and the easiest way for that helpful humanitarian to return him to you directly, quickly, and safely. While a trip to the local shelter to retrieve your safe and healthy dog is better than some of the tragic alternatives, avoiding that shelter visit by having his finder return him directly to you saves you anxiety and money, and saves your dog from possible exposure to those nasty viruses and bacteria that sometimes hang out in shelter kennels. For all these reasons, your dog should be wearing a current identification tag in addition to his license.

Types of tags
Once upon a time, “ID tag” inevitably meant an engraved metal tag that dangled from your dog’s collar from a metal “S” hook, jingling against his license every time he moved – a noise that some people found very irritating.

Today, your ID options range from simple to high-tech, and from dirt-cheap to high-dollar. We have yet to find the perfect dog identification system, however. Tags can fall off, or they can become worn and hard to read. Collars can be removed. Chips and tattoos can be overlooked. Still, there’s an identification system to meet the needs and preferences of every person and every dog, from the tiniest teacup Poodles to the most massive of Mastiffs.

The wisest people invest in more than one, so they have backup systems if one fails. We took a look at some of the low-to-mid-range options to help you choose, and left the high-end Mercedes models for another day. We evaluated seven different ID tags (and one collar), based on legibility, durability, functionality, aesthetic appeal, comfort for the dog, and cost.

Instant identification
We often like different products for different reasons. We have been huge fans of the next product for quite some time, based on its affordability and ease of use.

At 50 cents apiece (or less, if you buy them in bulk), the Jiffy-Tags/Instant Pet ID Tag (made by Animal Care Equipment & Services, Inc., of Crestline, California) can hardly get any more affordable!

It takes only a minute to customize this lightweight, heart-shaped tag. Basically, you write your dog’s information on both sides of a piece of pre-punched paper, and sandwich it between two pieces of adhesive-backed protective plastic. Then you slip it on the dog’s collar with the “O” ring conveniently provided in the packaging.

We always keep dozens of these handy little instant ID tags around. We give them to friends when they visit so they can slap an ID tag with local contact information on their dogs, and we take them with us when we travel so we can fill out new ones for our canine kids every time we stay in a new place. Having a friend or petsitter take care of your dogs while you are out of town? With these tags, you can inexpensively add the caretaker’s phone number to your dog’s regular arsenal of identification.

The lightweight tags are surprisingly durable – even on those of our dogs who like to swim regularly – and they don’t jingle against the licenses like the metal ones do. For all these reasons, we use them as our dogs’ regular ID, and think everyone should have a supply of these on hand.

FastTags are another type of tag that can be made quickly, and are inexpensive enough to use as temporary ID while traveling. Made by Ruff & Tumble Company of Woodland Hills, California, these are curious shrinkable plastic tags that you write on, then bake in the oven. They shrink and become thicker in the oven, and the writing becomes (more or less) embedded in the plastic (the maker also includes a small piece of adhesive-backed plastic that covers and protects the writing). These tags are not only attractive and durable, but also fun to make – they’d be a great project for a child under parental supervision. They come in a variety of different shapes (10), including a bone, doghouse, fire hydrant, and paw prints.

Since you write on these products yourself, it’s important to use good handwriting in order for them to be legible. If your handwriting is not good, have a friend write on the tags for you.

Made to order
We like both of the aforementioned products because they can be customized for your dog in minutes. The next few products are made to order, and generally take one to three weeks to be made and arrive at your door. Make sure your dog wears some form of temporary identification while waiting for the following products to arrive.

You can’t get more personal than a Personalized Adjustable Collar, a good quality nylon collar with your dog’s information actually stitched right into the fabric. Made by RC Steele, of Brockport, New York, these classy and relatively affordable collars certainly eliminate the problem of tag-jingle and the possibility of a tag falling off. The collars come in small, medium, and large in a variety of colors, and you can also order a personalized leash to match, for the stylishly accessorized look. Perhaps the only drawback to this product is the limit to the number of characters that will fit on the collars – about 30, which should be enough for any dog’s name and phone number, but not much more.

The Personalized Brass Slider Tag, also made by RC Steele, is another product designed to eliminate the risk of tag loss or the problem of tag-jingle. The slider is a rectangular-shaped, flat brass tag with a slot at each end to run a collar strap through; it is engraved to order.

The slider is very durable and attractive, but doesn’t quite make our 4-Paw rating because (as we realized after we ordered one) it can be used only on a flat collar that buckles. You can’t put it on a snap-closing collar because the plastic snap hardware won’t fit through the slots. Also, it’s a tad large for toy-sized dogs – it would be a bit bulky, and the tag would need to be curved to form to the shape of a smaller dog’s neck.

Perhaps the most captivating ID product we examined is the PetScope, made by eScopes LLC, of Santa Monica, California. The PetScope is a small metal or plastic tube with an eyepiece at one end. When you hold it up to a light source and look into the eyepiece (like you would look through a kaleidoscope) you see a tinted screen that contains an incredible amount of information about your dog. Believe it or not, this tiny ID tag can list your name, address, and phone; your dog’s description and the name of his usual food; your veterinarian’s name, number and location; your dog’s medical information and vaccination history; special care instructions, and a place for you to sign to grant permission for your dog’s emergency treatment in case of an accident. Wow!

How do they get all that into that little tube? When you order the PetScope, you fill in the information on a large paper disc and send it in to the company, where they reproduce the sheet on a tiny disk of microfilm that fits in the end of the tube. (If you order online, the information is printed onto the form for you – a good option for those with messy handwriting.)

When we first saw the product advertised, we were worried that a person who found a dog with the PetScope on the collar might not recognize the tiny box as an identification tag. We were happy to see that PetScope solved this problem by stamping “PET ID” on one side of the tube and “LOOK” on the other side.

The product comes in several different models, from the affordable plastic $13 model, to a $17 silver tone, a $20 gold plate, and a classy $45 sterling silver version. The scopes are waterproof and come with a lifetime warranty.

Our only criticism? In one of the three samples we received, the tiny information disc had slipped loose inside its tube and was flipped sideways. We could tap the product so that it flipped to a readable position, but if we shook the tube it flipped up again. While we appreciate the lifetime warranty that would (ostensibly) replace this product with another one, we worry that if the disc came loose while the dog was lost, a finder might not be able to read the contact information on the disc.

Not recommended
We didn’t anticipate seeing any difference between this product and the FastTag, mentioned earlier. Both products are made of plastic that is written on and then placed in the oven to shrink. But the Shrink ID-EZE Instant Pet ID Tag, made by Kylen Company of Huntington Beach, California, is not executed quite as well.

After baking, we found this tag to be considerably thinner, so that it could bend and break more easily. Also, the designs on a few of the tags are dark and “busy” enough that it makes the writing on the tag difficult to read. Finally, there is no adhesive plastic provided to protect the writing from wear. This is still a usable product, but if you are interested in these “shrink to complete” tags, we suggest you spend the extra dollar and go with the FastTag instead.

As the name suggests, the Dog ID Tag and Reflector, made by Oster Professional Products of McMinnville, Tennessee, seemed to offer an additional feature – a reflector – that many dog owners would find useful for walking after dark. While the product does, in fact, reflect light well, it does not serve well as an ID tag.

This is a very low-tech product; you write on a bit of paper that is glued to the back of the reflector and snap on a protective see-through plastic cover. We doubt this tag would hold up to much wear and tear, and in order to be waterproof, the maker suggests you paint over the writing with clear nail polish – not a convenient process. It may be better than no tag at all, but we suspect you’d find yourself replacing it frequently – or worse, not replacing it and leaving your dog without ID.

Also With This Article
Click here to view “Microchip Your Dog to Get Him Home Safe”
Click here to view “The Safest Types of Dog Collars (and the Most Dangerous)”

-by Pat Miller

Limited Pet Store Supplies

By
Nancy Kerns
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0

We not only subscribe to your periodical but also frequently suggest it as a source to our customers; especially since “WHOLE DOG JOURNAL DOES NOT ACCEPT ADVERTISING.” However, in recent issues we feel you are losing credibility in this area. For example, in the July 2001 issue, in your “Editorial Corrections” section on page 2, you mentioned that the phone number for the company that makes the Buddy Bowl, a featured product from an earlier issue, was out of order. You suggested that readers purchase the product at Petco.

As a small independent retailer, we have carried the Buddy Bowl for more than two years – and yet the only source you mentioned from which customers could purchase this product was Petco. You frequently mention that items can be purchased from either catalog sources or large retail/discount operations. This type of “advertising” of the big box stores adds yet another difficulty for the small independent retailer as we strive to maintain our position in the marketplace.

Rather than mention specific locations from which products can be purchased, a contact number or Web address for the manufacturer who could then direct them to a retailer in their area might be an approach more consistent with the standards we would hope you maintain.

-Barbara Schori
Pampered Paws, LLC, Granby, CT

Thanks for giving us the opportunity to explain ourselves on this point.

We would absolutely LOVE to direct readers to their local independent retailers to buy all the products we review. We have found that, without exception, it is the devoted and discriminating small business owners who carry the healthiest foods and safest products. For this reason and many others, we agree: People should always support their local independent pet store, whenever possible.

However, we really hear about it when frustrated readers can’t find the products we mention at their local stores. That’s why we try to offer information about the product makers; even if they don’t or won’t sell the product directly, we hope they will direct readers to a local retailer. Or retailers can call them and arrange to carry it.

Sometimes, however, it’s almost impossible to find the product makers, in which case we’re stuck with passing along our only certain source for the product, which is what happened in the case of the Buddy Bowl.

———-

I am disappointed with the dried salmon and venison treats you mentioned in “There Is a Difference” (September 2001). There is a much better freeze-dried salmon treat made by Wildside Salmon of Seattle, Washington, which is 100 percent salmon, period. Dogs and cats love them and they are not greasy. You can contact the company at (206) 722-3474 or www.wildsidesalmon.com. Another treat that is just meat and nothing else is Rosie’s Rewards, a 100 percent beef treat made from hormone-free, range grown, USDA-inspected beef. You can contact Rosie’s Rewards in Pray, Montana, at (877) 767-3283 or www.rosiesrewards.com. My animals just love these products and I think these products would meet your criteria.

I was particularly happy to see the Buddy Biscuits reviewed so positively. The company (CloudStar, of San Luis Obispo, California) uses excellent ingredients in all of its products. Have your reviewed its shampoo and conditioner? The next time you do shampoos, these would be great.

-Kathy Wagers
via e-mail

Thanks for the tips on the salmon and the beef treats. They both appear to be superior treats. And, yes, we have tried CloudStar’s dog shampoo and rinse (Buddy Wash and Buddy Rinse), and you’re right; they are fabulous products. You’ll see them at the top of our recommendations when we next get around to reviewing shampoos. Every time Rupert has been bathed with Buddy Wash and Buddy Rinse, someone will say, “It smells so nice in here! What IS that fragrance?!” Then we have to confess it’s the DOG who smells so good, not us!

Download the Full September 2001 Issue

By
Nancy Kerns
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0
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Stick to Your Guns

By
Nancy Kerns
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0

Bear with me for a minute; I’m actually going to tell you a cat story.

A couple of years ago, as I was packing for a business trip, my big tabby cat walked into the house holding his head tilted oddly sideways. Tigger purred as I carried him to the kitchen table for an examination. Was this simply a “Help! I’ve got tape stuck to my fur!” kind of problem? Or a trip-cancelling, “Quick! Rush him into surgery!” kind of thing?

It turned out to be something in the middle. Tigger had some sort of wound on the top of his head, and it had abscessed, making one ear and one side of his head swollen and sensitive. He needed veterinary care.

I called my local holistic veterinary practice, where Tigger had been seen for health checkups previously, but they were completely booked. So I called the closest veterinary clinic and was told I could bring the cat in right away. I had never been to this clinic before, but I didn’t anticipate any problem.

I had my first inkling that all was not going to go smoothly when the veterinary technician spent more time asking me about the cat’s vaccination history, dental-cleaning history, diet, and indoor/outdoor status than actually looking at the cat. But then the veterinarian came in and my fears eased. A warm and clearly competent practitioner, she quickly ascertained the extent of the damage, and outlined reasonable suggestions for treatment as she rubbed Tigger’s chest and chin, to his delight.

Then she reached for a clipboard. She asked me to look over and initial the list of charges that I would incur for this treatment while she went to get some antibiotics and other supplies. I was stunned to see a figure of more than $500 and a long list of proposed treatments. I looked more carefully at the form – it was a computer printout, prepared by the technician before the veterinarian entered the room – and it included recommendations for a number of vaccinations, a teeth-cleaning (to be scheduled for another day), and even post-teeth-cleaning antibiotics!

Suffice to say that we had a strained conversation when the vet returned to the room. She argued for the necessity of vaccinating the cat; I countered that I didn’t think he needed the boosters, and that, anyway, with his current infection, it was no time to be fooling with his immune system. And when I did allow that he probably did need his teeth cleaned, and that I’d be happy to bring him back at another time to have that done, she said triumphantly, “Then he’ll have to have the vaccinations; he can’t spend the day here without having them!”

The veterinarian clearly thought she was doing what she thought best for Tigger. But so was I. Initialing only the treatment for Tigger’s ear, I stuck to my guns. The room was very quiet as she worked on the cat, and she was short when I thanked her for her help.

I remembered this story as I listened to a friend on the phone recently. She described how condescending a veterinarian and his staff members became after she refused to allow a procedure for a test she didn’t think was necessary for her aged and rapidly declining dog. She didn’t think the information gained from the test would be worth the potential physical stress and damage it could cause – especially since the results of the test would not necessarily change the dog’s treatment! She was very hurt and angered by the staff’s lack of understanding of her decision.

It’s very difficult to stand up to an expert you are paying, whether it’s a vet, trainer, or breeder, and say you won’t take their advice. But sometimes you have to; not all experts are right, or know what’s best for your dog! And don’t get too upset about one of these encounters; just start looking for an expert whose theories and methods alignbetter with yours. Trust me; there are plenty of them out there.

-by Nancy Kerns

The Difference Between Quality Dog Treats and Unhealthy Dog Treats

By
Nancy Kerns
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2

There are two types of people in the world: Those who give their dogs treats, and those who don’t, ever. I think all of us here belong in the former group. Right? Everyone with me? Good.

We are all aware that we could make our own dogs treats rather than buy them. Some of us do make our dogs’ treats, sometimes. But there is something special about buying snacks for our dogs – sort of like buying Popsicles from the ice cream man for the kids; it may be expensive, and impulsive, and foolish. But so what? The joyous little doggie dance that dogs do when they know you’ve got something yummy for them is worth any price.

Actually, feeding treats to your dog is not all whimsy – far from it. Regular readers of WDJ know that food is the most powerful tool we have to motivate a dog to pay attention to us. And once they understand that they can get humans to give them treats by performing various tasks, most dogs get downright desperate to perform. “Sit? Down? Shake hands? High five? You say the word, boss, and I’ll do it; just keep those biscuits coming!”

Our regular readers also know that we talk about dog food in every issue of WDJ. We discuss homemade diets constantly, review dry dog foods every February and canned foods every October, and occasionally talk about innovations such as commercially freeze dried foods, frozen raw diets, and fermented foods.

We talk about food so obsessively because the quality and type of food that you feed your dog probably has a greater impact on his health than any other factor in his life. With all other factors being equal, dogs who eat better food will be healthier. And there is just no sense in feeding your dog great food and then slipping him awful, chemical-laden treats!

Support health
So, in general, we suggest looking for treats that support the same general philosophy that guides your dog food purchases, with a couple of exceptions. While they are sometimes formulated to meet the standards for “complete and balanced” nutrition set by the Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO) for dogs, they don’t have to be; your dog won’t be surviving on these and nothing else. But neither should they contain nutrients in amounts that so radically depart from a dog’s daily diet that their consumption (even in small amounts) would completely imbalance his diet.

Also, some dogs are intolerant or allergic to certain food ingredients. Obviously, you have to shop for treats that do not contain those ingredients; even the small amount that a sensitive dog might consume in an occasional treat could set off a reaction. Fortunately, as long as you are aware of what specific ingredient your dog can’t tolerate, it should be even easier to find a treat without it than a dog food; there are probably even more special-formula treats available for dogs than there are special-formula dog foods. Interestingly, there are a number of treat manufacturers who claim to have started their businesses because they couldn’t find a commercial source of treats that met the special dietary consideration of their own allergic or sensitive dogs.

Palatability issues
On the next page, we discuss some of traits we like to see in a treat, and some things we think that treats really shouldn’t contain. Our “likes/dislikes” lists are pretty clear, until you come to the issue of palatability enhancers. Generally, whenever we talk about dog foods, we say that products that contain good-quality ingredients won’t need palatability enhancers to attract dogs to eat them. But treats are supposed to make dogs especially enthusiastic, motivated, and gratified, so they should taste extra nice. For this reason, we don’t mind seeing some palatability enhancement in a treat recipe. But we do insist that it’s still a natural, healthy enhancer – natural sweeteners over artificial ones, for example.

This consideration caused us some unexpected angst in the category of meat-based treats. We found a handful of meaty treats that – from arm’s length – looked like healthy, delicious candidates. We naively thought that these treats would be the purest available, since two were comprised largely of dried salmon, and two were mostly venison – what more would you need to thrill a dog? But in each case, we were disappointed to discover that the dried meats were loaded with additional palatability enhancers – salt, sugar, and artificial additives such as smoke flavor. What’s up with that? Compared to the products we rated “one-bone” (do not buy!), however, the additives are a mere sprinkling, so these products get our “two-bone” rating.

You’ll have to guess whether your dog will be motivated by grain-based treats; pungent flavors such as cheese, salt, anise, or peanut butter; sweets (molasses, sugar, or honey); or if he’s a meat-eatin’-only kind of guy. Don’t hesitate to try something new! He might surprise you and develop a healthy craving for cheese or apple flavors.

We have noticed that many dogs who have been trained with treats are so conditioned to expect something yummy from you, that they don’t seem to really care when the treat you hand them is not all that tasty – they would happily crunch and swallow a dirt clod or two before they caught on. Other dogs are motivated only by what our Training Editor, Pat Miller, calls “high-value” treats: fragrant and delicious confections. Sometimes it takes a while to find the treat that makes your dog do somersaults.

Other considerations
Because we advocate every imaginable type of positive-reinforcement training, we end up feeding our dogs a lot of treats. (Often, you can train the dog with his own dinner- kibble as a reward, only using higher-value treats for learning new or demanding tricks that beg for greater motivation.) For training purposes, it’s best if the treats are very small. If a dog received a paw-sized biscuit every time he did something right in a training session, he’d be corpulent in no time. So, while we can easily break up a large treat into tiny pieces for training, we especially appreciate manufacturers who deliver their tasty wares in tiny sizes.

We also enjoy it when a treat maker has an especially engaging or amusing package. We know that seems shallow! But we also know that attractively packaged dog treats make great, inexpensive gifts for our dog-loving friends – and most of our friends love dogs! Our amusement does not, however, extend to the “fake human food” school of presentation that is so popular among the big-name, grocery-store treats. Generally, the use of chemical humectants and artificial colors (both on our list of no-no’s) are required to make treats look like bacon, ham bones, sausages, etc. And it’s not like our dogs appreciate the effort!

On a more practical note, when the treats come in an easily recloseable container (we like plastic jars and zipper-type plastic bags), it’s a bonus. These containers keep the treats from losing flavor and freshness.

Finally, note that this is not – obviously – a list of every treat maker in the country. Rather, we wanted to show you a few samples of some of the treats that we think are absolutely the best, some that are just fine and dandy, and some that we think you ought to avoid, and highlight the features that helped us make those distinctions. Then, if it’s not already listed here, you can compare the list of ingredients and determine where on our scale your dog’s favorite treat would fit. The following chart is arranged alphabetically by rating.

Also With This Article
Click here to view “Whole Dog Journal’s Approved Dry Dog Food List”
Click here to view “Healthy Dog Treats”

-by Nancy Kerns

Nursing Your Dog Back to Health Using a High-Quality Diet

By
CJ Puotinen
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0

The rescued puppy has diarrhea, gummy eyes, ear mites, and ringworm, but there’s a spark in his eye and his tail is wagging. A stray dog has an upper respiratory infection, skin lesions and worms, yet the person who finds her knows she’ll make a loyal companion.

Some of the best dogs come into our lives in damaged condition, and the right support can transform them. Yet when dogs have multiple problems, it’s hard to know what to do first. Many dogs and puppies in pet stores, animal shelters, or on the street suffer from malnutrition and conditions that take advantage of impaired immunity; parasites, bacterial infections, fungi, and viruses all take their toll.

Not only neglected or starving dogs suffer from a lack of wholesome, nutritious food, causing and prolonging illness; there are numerous dogs whose food bowls are filled with kibble daily who nonetheless exhibit signs of nutritional deficiencies. A dog who eats nothing but low-quality, generic, and/or “grocery store” type foods – which may not contain quality ingredients with bio-available nutrients – may develop chronic conditions relating to his undernourished condition.

If your dog started life as a parasite-laden “pound puppy,” spent some time in a shelter, or is a long-term consumer of low-quality food, start his rehabilitation with his food bowl. A high-quality diet with appropriate supplements can help the dog heal himself.

Most holistic veterinarians believe that improving the diet of these chronically ill dogs – and dogs who suffer from multiple ailments – is critical to restoring these dogs to health. Moreover, the use of certain supplements can significantly boost the dog’s ability to heal himself. Below, we’ll describe the most commonly used, effective nutritional approaches for quickly improving a dog’s health and vitality.

First things first

If you’ve brought a raggedy stray dog or a beleaguered shelter dog into your home and heart, you’ll want to address some of his most obvious problems immediately; not many of us could or would wait for improved nutrition and health to heal a dog’s minor cuts or abrasions, infections, or parasite infestations, even though these things generally will eventually resolve if a dog is fed and supplemented correctly. However, some gentle treatments can be employed right away to make the dog more comfortable – and help you be more comfortable around him!

When taking a holistic approach to health, we don’t generally employ the use of powerful antibiotics and antibacterials for minor conditions. Instead, we use mild treatments that work synergistically with the body. For example, minor cuts, abrasions, hot spots, and skin lesions can be doused with strong antibacterial solutions – such as iodine-based soaps, topical antibiotic ointments, or alcohol-based rinses – which will help kill bacteria. But these preparations can also kill healthy tissue and the dog’s own pathogen-fighting cells in a sort of scorched-earth manner. Many dog owners have found less forceful preparations to be just as effective – and less insulting to the body’s own defenders. Most minor external injuries can be cleaned with liberal applications of aloe vera juice or gel with perfect results.

Similarly, don’t automatically turn to pesticides to control parasites; these preparations can burden the dog’s already overworked toxin-removal system. To treat ear mites, swab the dog’s ears with a cotton ball saturated with pure mineral oil every two or three days for three weeks. Mineral oil, which has large molecules, smothers the mites. Clean the ears with cotton or tissues before reapplying the oil. Remove fleas with a gentle shampoo and nontoxic flea control products; comb the dog daily with a fine-toothed flea-comb and you will note a steadily decreasing population of the pests. Frequently vacuum your house thoroughly (to remove any flea eggs) and wash the dog’s bedding (to destroy flea eggs) to help prevent reinfestation.

In short, do what you can to make the animal clean and comfortable, without causing any new problems. And make an appointment as soon as possible with your holistic veterinarian for an overall health check.

Food first; then supplements

An important step in any dog’s recovery is the right diet. Dogs are designed to eat a variety of fresh, whole foods, and a balanced, raw, home-prepared diet is an excellent way to provide the nutrients they need to heal from the inside out.

For those who aren’t able to feed Fido from scratch, buy the best commercial dog food you can find and afford . . . and then improve on it. (See “The Best Dry Dog Foods,” WDJ February 2001, “Canned Answers,” WDJ October 2000, and “Food in the Freezer,” WDJ March 2000.)

Fresh juice and raw liver are some of the healthiest foods you can add to your dog’s diet. If you have a juicer, use it. Most dogs and puppies love carrot juice, which contains abundant zinc, vitamin E, copper, beta carotene, and other nutrients that strengthen immunity. For best results, use organically grown carrots and add a handful of celery, parsley, or apple as desired. Feed directly if your dog likes it (most do) or start with small amounts in food. Try to feed 1/2 cup fresh juice per 25-30 pounds of body weight per day.

An easy way to make fresh, raw carrot juice even more nutritious is to add raw liver. Some veterinarians call liver a miracle food for its ability to save lives and improve health. I’ve heard of newborn puppies who were dying of Fading Puppy Syndrome come back to life as soon as a tablespoon of chopped liver was added to their mothers’ diet. Bottle-fed orphan pups suddenly grow and gain weight when pureed liver is added to their formula, and dogs with injuries and serious illnesses heal faster when liver is added to their food.

Raw beef and chicken liver are rich in protein, amino acids, phosphorus, potassium, copper, vitamin A, and B-complex vitamins including folic acid, pantothenic acid, vitamin B6 and choline. Because the liver stores toxins, feed liver only from organically raised poultry and cattle.

To help sick dogs and puppies, feed small amounts, such as one teaspoon raw organic calf or chicken liver per 10 to 20 pounds of body weight, once or twice per day.

Support supplements

When a dog or puppy has multiple problems, it’s tempting to try every supplement that might help. With thousands of products on the market, deciding what to buy can be daunting.

“I would start with digestive enzymes, colostrum, and acidophilus to try to get the natural flora going again,” says Beverly Cappel, DVM, a holistic veterinarian in Chestnut Ridge, NY. “In addition you can give superoxide dismutase (DOS), B vitamins, vitamin C, and echinacea-goldenseal tincture to help fight infection. Puppies need only a drop or two of tincture, and depending on size, adult dogs can take up to 10-15 drops a day. You don’t want to overdo it by giving too many supplements or too much of anything, because when dogs or puppies are seriously weak, that can push them over the edge. Keep them warm and dry, make sure they’re eating, and make sure they’re hydrated.

“If drugs are needed, use drugs. Some animals have such acute infections that antibiotics save their lives, but in many cases, all they need is tender loving care and the right nourishment.

“I tell people to use common sense and treat sick puppies the way they would an infant or young child. Keep them warm, dry, well fed, and well watered, and give them any product that supports the immune system.”

Enzymes

Enzymes are proteins that, in small amounts, speed the rate of biological reactions such as digestion. Nearly every raw food carries within it the enzymes necessary for its digestion, but cooking inactivates these enzymes and the body must work hard to replace them in order for food to be broken down and assimilated.

Acidophilus probiotic supplements, in capsule or liquid form, should be kept refrigerated.

Digestive enzymes such as pancreatin and bromelain help replace enzymes destroyed by heat. Enzyme supplements given between meals on an empty stomach help dogs recover from illness and injury. Enzyme powders mixed with food improve its digestion and assimilation. Even dogs on an all-raw diet, which contains abundant enzymes, can benefit from these supplements when ill or recovering from illness. (For more information about systemic oral enzyme therapy, see “Banking on Enzymes,” WDJ January 2001.)

Colostrum and lactoferrin

Colostrum is the first milk a mammal produces after giving birth. In dogs, cows, and humans, this milk is so rich in immune system support that it protects newborns from infections and intestinal disorders. Colostrum affects 32 growth factors including muscle, cartilage, connective tissue, body weight, and lean muscle.

Colostrum and lactoferrin protect the mucous membrane, interfere with the reproduction of harmful bacteria, activate T-cells which attack invading organisms, repair damaged muscle and cartilage tissue, and improve muscle tone. They are recommended for any animal that is weak, elderly, susceptible to illness, and fighting or recovering from any disease.

Colostrum supplements derived from cows’ milk are reported to enhance immune function in dogs and kittens. Lactoferrin, one of the immune factors in colostrum, is also sold as an immune-enhancing supplement.

Probiotics and prebiotics

A probiotic supplement, like live-culture yogurt or acidophilus, contains beneficial bacteria that help fight infection while improving digestion. Prebiotic supplements actually nourish the beneficial bacteria. Together, prebiotics and probiotics help replace beneficial bacteria destroyed by antibiotics or an inadequate diet.

Powdered acidophilus and similar probiotics can be added to food or mixed with water. Check your health food store’s refrigerator for the freshest supplements.

Sweet whey (not to be confused with whey protein) is a by-product of cheese-making and the clear liquid that separates from yogurt when you strain it through cheesecloth. This important prebiotic feeds the beneficial bacteria in your dog’s digestive tract. If fresh whey is not available, powdered sweet whey can be added to food or water; in fact, most dogs like the taste, so adding sweet whey to water encourages them to drink more. Start with small amounts, such as 1/8 teaspoon per 20 pounds of body weight twice a day, to be sure the dog tolerates it well. Giving the milk-digesting enzyme lactase at the same time can help prevent indigestion or, if the dog has trouble with whey, use a different prebiotic.

The Jerusalem artichoke is a potato-like tuber of the sunflower family, and in Europe and Japan, Jerusalem artichoke flour is added to bread, pasta, and other foods to improve digestion and feed beneficial bacteria. Inuflora is made from Jerusalem artichoke tubers that are juiced, then dehydrated. This sweet powder, produced in Germany, has been extensively tested in farm animals. According to Monika Kreuger, DVM, rector at the University of Leipzig, professor of veterinary medicine and chief of the Institute of Bacteriology and Microbiology, Inuflora also inhibits enzymatic reactions stimulated by harmful bacteria, reducing the animal’s susceptibility to infection.

Vitamins and minerals

Dogs that have multiple infections will especially benefit from supplemental vitamins and minerals. There are many multi-vitamin/mineral supplements on the market, but many holistic veterinarians prefer to use vitamin/mineral products made from whole-food sources, such as Catalyn from Standard Process or similar products from Wysong. Food-source supplements are so easily assimilated and free from adverse side effects that precision dosing isn’t necessary. Use label recommendations for guidance, but know varying dosages, such as those consumed by wild canines, won’t hurt your dog.

Although dogs produce their own vitamin C, they can benefit from extra C when ill or under stress. In his book How to Have a Healthier Dog, Wendell Belfield, DVM, documents vitamin C’s ability to improve immunity, treat viral and bacterial infections, detoxify the body, improve collagen, and improve the condition of cancer patients. He also dispels the myth that large quantities of vitamin C can be toxic or cause kidney stones. Too much vitamin C can cause loose stools or diarrhea. If that happens, reduce the dosage.

For best results, use a natural vitamin C complex that includes bioflavonoids. Any dog being treated for multiple infections can use 500-3000 mg. or more per day, depending on size and condition, in divided doses. Open capsules or crush tablets and mix the powder with food. Pediatric vitamin C drops are appropriate for pups, but as soon as possible, replace synthetic vitamin C with vitamin C from whole-food sources, such as Wysong’s Food C. As the dog’s condition improves, reduce vitamin C to maintenance doses based on label directions. Even small amounts of vitamin C make a difference if the C is from whole-food sources.

Vitamin E improves heart health, strengthens the immune system, protects the body from toxins, helps heal skin lesions, improves the effectiveness of other vitamins and minerals, and has a rejuvenating effect on older dogs.

Dr. Belfield recommends up to 100 International Units (IUs) per day for small dogs, 200 IU for medium, 400 IU for large, and 600 IU for giant breeds. Use a natural vitamin E such as Carlson Labs’ E-Gems. Prick a capsule and squeeze a small amount into food or into the dog’s mouth.

Vitamins D and A work together with vitamin E to boost immunity and fight infection. Cod liver oil is rich in both D and A, but too much of either can be toxic, so don’t overdose. Dr. Belfield recommends 100-400 IU vitamin D and 1500-7500 IU vitamin A, depending on the dog’s size and activity level. Check product labels to verify vitamin D and vitamin A levels.

Amino acids

Amino acids are the building blocks of proteins needed to construct every cell of every organ, bone, and fluid in the body. For optimum health, essential amino acids must be provided in the proper balance.

One excellent whole-food source of amino acids is the supplement Seacure, which is made from fermented deep-sea fish. In addition to helping dogs recover from illness, Seacure speeds wound healing and aids detoxification. It is especially helpful for recently weaned puppies. Most dogs love its strong fishy odor. Add to food or mix with water and give puppies one capsule three or four times per day (use a syringe or eyedropper to feed puppies as needed), or two capsules three or four times per day for adult dogs. Continue this dosage until the dog is completely well, then give one or two capsules per day for one or two months.

Gelatin

Gelatin, a jellylike substance formed when tendons, ligaments, and bones containing the protein collagen are boiled in water, is most familiar in fruit-flavored desserts. But the beneficial effects of plain gelatin are well documented in medical literature.

When taken with food, gelatin acts as an aid to digestion. It has been successfully used in the treatment of many human intestinal disorders, including colitis and Crohn’s disease. Although gelatin is not a complete protein, containing only the amino acids arginine and glycine in large amounts, it acts as a protein sparer, allowing the body to more fully utilize the complete proteins in foods eaten at the same time. Gelatin is also of use in treating many chronic disorders, including anemia, diabetes, and cancer.

Home-prepared gelatin-rich broths are easy to make by soaking bones and vegetables in cold water for an hour with two tablespoons vinegar per quart of water, then simmering over low heat for 24 hours. Generous amounts can be added to any pet’s food during and after convalescence. Alternatively, mix powdered gelatin with a small amount of cold water and add to meat, poultry, eggs, and other high-protein foods.

Stabilized rice bran

Approximately 65 percent of the nutrients in rice are in the bran, the seed coat or polish that covers the white interior kernel. Millions of metric tons of rice bran are discarded annually, unfit for human consumption because it spoils so quickly. Within a few hours of milling, rice bran’s fragile oils go rancid.

In India, where polished rice is a staple grain, fresh rice bran from the mill floor is a folk remedy that has long been used to treat illnesses in adults and children. Rice bran is rich in vitamin E, antioxidants, plant sterols, amino acids, trace minerals, fiber, B vitamins and other phytonutrients that are easily assimilated and work synergistically to restore good health.

In the 1980s, USDA researchers in California discovered a method for deactivating the lipase enzyme and stabilizing the oils in rice bran, preventing rancidity and giving the bran a long shelf life. It has been used in animal feeds ever since, and according to Betty Kamen, PhD, the benefits to companion animals and horses include improvement in joints and connective tissue, skin and coat disorders, metabolism, immune system function, stamina, cell protection, and stable blood sugar. “Another animal health application is the positive effect of rice bran on canine digestion,” she says, “especially after bouts of gastroenteritis. The fiber and digestive coenzymes in rice bran are said to bring about a natural calming effect in the digestive system.”

Dog owners and breeders using stabilized rice bran report increased vitality, reduced shedding, and improved endurance.

Garlic

Many culinary herbs have medicinal uses, but garlic is both the most widely used and the most researched. Garlic is rich in sulfur compounds and volatile oils. It fights infection, helps prevent cancer, expels tapeworms, inhibits protozoan infections such as Giardia lamblia, makes animals less attractive hosts to fleas and other parasites, and prevents blood clotting.

Garlic’s odor can be offensive, but several companies produce odorless garlic products. Dr. Belfield describes how some breeders prevent roundworms and other parasites by giving each dog and puppy one garlic-parsley tablet per day. Alternatively, grind, chop, or finely mince fresh garlic and parsley together and add one-quarter-teaspoon per 10 pounds of body weight to food.

Retired veterinarian Gloria Dodd, DVM, endorses Kyolic brand aged garlic extract and gives it to all her animals as well as to herself and her family every day. When a new strain of parvovirus that causes severe hemorrhagic gastroenteritis struck her California valley, most of the infected dogs died from acute toxemia despite prompt veterinary treatment. By adding Kyolic to her protocol, Dr. Dodd was able to save many of her patients.

For puppies and small or toy breeds, Dr. Dodd recommends adding a half-teaspoon Kyolic liquid three times a day for one week, followed by a half-teaspoon once a day. For adult dogs, the dose is one teaspoon three times a day for one week and one teaspoon per day after that, and for large breeds, one tablespoon three times a day for one week and one tablespoon per day for maintenance.

Any of these nutritional support products can be used in any combination by puppies and dogs with multiple problems, helping today’s debilitated rescue dog shine in perfect health for years to come.

Eliminate Aggressive Dog Guarding Behaviors

By
Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA
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If this dog was a serious “resource guarder,” this would be quite dangerous for the person. As it is, this dog is showing a low – but detectable – level of anxiety about having someone so close to his food: His tail is not wagging; his body is braced, and he’s watching the person as he eats, though he does not make friendly eye contact. More serious guarding behavior might also include growling, raising his lips to show his teeth, or a quick biting attack.

Dusty, our diminutive eight-pound Pomeranian, grabs a chew-hoof and darts under the coffee table with his prize. Tucker, the 75-pound Cattle Dog-mix approaches, eyeing the hoof covetously. Dusty curls his lip and emits a surprisingly convincing growl for such a tiny canine. Despite the fact that he could easily take the hoof away from the much smaller dog, Tucker backs off, leaving Dusty to chew in peace. We watch, and chuckle at the mini-drama that plays out in our living room almost daily.

It’s most common for dogs to defend their food, but edible items are not the only things that dogs will keep from all potential rivals. Some dogs will defend their “ownership” of toys, a favored place to sleep, or the water bowl. Behaviorists and dog trainers call these protective behaviors “resource guarding.”

A dog who defends his food from other dogs is exhibiting a perfectly normal and appropriate canine behavior. In the wild, where food supply equals life, the dog who gives up his food easily has a poor chance for survival. Because survival of individuals is important for survival of the pack, higher ranking pack members often, although not always, subscribe to a “possession is nine-tenths of the law” philosophy. It’s generally not worth the risk of injury to a pack member to argue over a bit of food or bone.

Guarding from humans
Resource guarding is far less acceptable, of course, when it’s directed toward us. For our own safety, we want dogs to understand that everything they have is really ours. But dogs are probably somewhat confused by our species’ apparent ignorance of the “nine-tenths” rule. Accommodating creatures that they are, most dogs learn to give up coveted possessions to their owners without much of a fuss, but from time to time one of our canine pals decides to aggressively assert his ownership rights to something: a precious toy, a tasty rawhide chew, or a bowl of food. If this describes your dog, you have a serious problem on your hands.

Identify objects of dispute
The more specific the guarding, the easier the behavior is to manage. If your dog only guards truffles, say, you’re pretty safe – at $20 per pound, your dog won’t often stumble across a forgotten pile of the costly fungus. If anything remotely edible falls into his definition of “guardable,” however, you have a much bigger challenge.

Generalized food guarding is the most common manifestation of resource guarding, and often the most dangerous, since it is virtually impossible to control the presence of food in the dog’s environment. No matter how diligent you are, he will inevitably find a cookie that fell between the cracks of the sofa, a bag of fast-food remnants in the gutter, or a deposit of kitty-poo in the garden. (While we may not consider cat poop to be edible, to a dog, anything consumable is food.)

Determine extent of guarding
Resource guarding describes a continuum of behaviors, all of which indicate that a dog is not comfortable with the presence of you or some other human in his “space” while he is in possession of a valuable article. Let’s look at a description of various food-guarding behaviors, from those that pose no risk to the dog’s human companions to those that pose a grave risk:

Level 1: The ideal and safest response when you approach Fido at his food bowl is that he stops eating, wags his tail, and comes over to greet you. He is telling you that he doesn’t perceive you as a threat to his food, or if he does, he doesn’t care. The food’s not all that important to him; he’d be happy to share it with you.

Level 2: A slightly less perfect but still very safe reaction is that Fido looks at you, wags his tail, and continues eating, but is still relaxed about your presence in the food zone.

Level 3: The first sign of discomfort on Fido’s part is usually a slight tensing of his body as you approach. He may also wag his tail. However, if the speed of the wag increases as you get closer to him and the amount of tension in his body, he is communicating that your presence near his resources makes him uncomfortable.

Level 4: As the dog’s discomfort escalates, so does his behavior. At the next level you are likely to see a glare in his eye when he looks at you, perhaps a lifting of the lip in a snarl, maybe a low growl, and an obvious increase in eating speed. One very effective way to prevent you from getting any of his food is for him to eat it quickly.

Level 5: If the food is portable, such as a chew-hoof or pig ear, at this level, the dog may carry the item under a chair, a bed, or into his crate, then growl at you when you come too near. If he can’t pick it up, he may try to push the food bowl farther away from you when you continue to trespass.

Level 6: A serious food-guarder is more than willing to put some teeth into his warnings. A snap is the next step on the continuum – no contact with your flesh, but a no-uncertain-terms statement that Fido is not prepared to share his food with you.

Level 7: As Fido’s protectiveness increases, so does the threat to your safety (or the safety of the child passing by). More serious than a snap is the actual bite. Rarely does a food-guarding bite not break skin – the contact is usually very quick and hard, and may consist of several puncturing bites that move up the transgressor’s arm or face.

Level 8: Severe food guarding can be triggered even at a distance. At the strongest level, even a person on the far side of the room can be perceived as a threat to the highly valued food or item, and the dog’s behavior can escalate very quickly and alarmingly with a seemingly innocuous movement, even from far away.

Behavior modification
The key to winning the resource guarding battle lies in:

1.) excellent management of guardable resources in the dog’s presence, and
2.) convincing the dog that your presence is not a threat to his food supply.

Rather, he needs to see you as the welcome harbinger of all delicious consumables. Your presence near your dog should be a reliable predictor of the advent of more good stuff, not less. Your role as benevolent distributor of valuable resources is the foundation of your behavior management and modification program.

The good news is that not all dogs who display low levels of guarding behavior will advance to higher levels. The behavior you see may be the worst that they ever offer, especially if you implement a behavior modification program before the response escalates. The prognosis for successful behavior modification improves greatly if you begin a program as soon as possible.

The bad news is that higher level dogs don’t necessarily give you lower level warnings before they launch an attack. Higher levels of resource guarding can be very challenging to modify. Meanwhile, the behavior presents an extremely high risk of injury to those around the dog, especially children.

A skilled and knowledgeable owner may be able to effectively modify food guarding behavior up to Level 4 or 5. Anything beyond that definitely begs the assistance of a qualified trainer or behaviorist. A person who is not confident about working with the dog’s behavior at lower levels, or who tries and does not make progress, should also seek professional help with the dog.

It can be a lot of work to manage and modify the behavior of a resource-guarder. You will have to:

• Manage the behavior through resource control unless and until the behavior has been completely and successfully modified. You must identify and remove all potential guarding triggers. Food bowls, even empty ones, should not be left lying on the floor. Stuffed Kongs, favorite toys, balls, pillows – anything that triggers even a mild possession response – needs to be put away, and given to the dog only in very controlled circumstances.

• Relocate the dog’s feeding area from a high traffic area to a low one to minimize risk. A dog regularly fed in the kitchen may guard the entire room. A dog fed on the back porch may guard the entire yard. Choose a little-used room, at least 10 feet wide, that visitors are not likely to stumble into, such as the basement office or the pantry.

• Spend two to four weeks preparing your dog for the program. Feed two to three times a day. Confine him away from the feeding area. Place the food bowl in the feeding room, bring the dog to the room, leave the room, and close the door until he has finished eating, up to 30 minutes.

• Attend a positive dog training class using a variety of desirable food treats as rewards. (Do not do this if your dog lunges aggressively for food in your hand). Be sure to let the trainer know that your dog is a resource-guarder.

• Implement a “Nothing in Life is Free” program, where the dog has to earn all good things. Have him sit or lie down in order to get anything he wants, including food, toys, attention, and going outside to play.

• Exercise him more. A tired dog is a well-behaved dog. Weather permitting, three to four 15-20 minute tongue-dragging sessions of fetch can work wonders in reducing inappropriate behaviors. Watch out for heat stroke; do not overdo exercise in hot weather. Spend more time with the dog in general, doing things that you both enjoy.

• Identify and avoid situations that trigger aggression.

• Teach the dog to “Give” on cue (see “Give-and-Take,” page 13).

• Avoid punishing the dog should a food-guarding or other aggressive incident occur.

• Implement a desensitization program (see sidebar, below) after two to four weeks of doing all of the above. This complete program can take four to eight months or longer.

The final outcome
Some dogs are successfully and completely rehabilitated through resource guarding modification programs, especially those who exhibit only the lower level behaviors. Many are not. There is a strong likelihood that you will always need to reinforce your resource guarder’s new nonguarding behavior, and avoid situations that could retrigger the guarding.

Because small children almost always come with food – cookies, crackers, etc. – and they are naturally closer to the dog’s own level, many prior resource guarders are never trustworthy around children. Of course, dogs and small children should never be left together unsupervised, but this goes far beyond that. Many families understandably choose to rehome their resource-guarding dogs rather than risk a serious bite. Of course, finding a good home for a dog with a history of aggression is yet another big challenge.

Rehabilitating a resource guarder can take a huge commitment of time, resources, and emotion. Throughout the program, you, other family members, and visitors to your home are at risk of being bitten if there are inadvertent slips in the program.

We applaud responsible dog owners who are willing to make the commitment required to change their dogs’ behaviors. We also urge them to think long and hard about their commitment and liablility, and to be realistic about whether they are able to do what it takes to ensure the safety of others during the process of reprogramming a resource-guarder. And we cheer when we receive reports from those who have been successful in getting their dogs to “share.”

Give-and-Take: A Good Game for ALL Dogs to Learn

You can help prevent resource guarding in a dog who does not display overt signs of the behavior by teaching him a give-and-take game. Note: Do not do this if your dog lunges and aggressively tries to grab treats out of your hand.

Start by offering him a toy that he likes (but is not extremely valuable to him). When he opens his mouth, say “Take It!” When he does, tell him he’s a good boy, then offer him a treat.

When he opens his mouth to take the treat and drops the toy, say “Give,” (or “Trade,” or “Share”) and let him nibble at the treat while you pick up the toy. The nibbling part is important. If you let him eat the treat and then try to pick up the toy he will race you for it, which may actually encourage resource guarding.

While he is nibbling, slowly and calmly pick up the toy.  Let him finish eating the treat, then offer him the toy again and say “Take It!” as he puts his mouth around it.

Practiced several times a day, a few repetitions at a time, this game will teach your dog the very useful behavior of “Give” on cue. He will also learn that if he gives something up to you, odds are good that he’ll get it back again, or something even better.

Troubleshooting

If he won’t take the toy: Find a toy that he likes more. If he is only a mild resource guarder (Level 3 or 4) you can even use a toy such as a Kong with a cookie inside it. Use a low-value treat (a bland cookie or cracker) in the toy, and a much higher-value treat (a piece of cheese or roast beef) for his reward.

If he won’t drop the toy for the treat: You need a much better treat. Don’t be stingy here; hard dry cookies and bits of dog kibble just may not be exciting enough to convince him to give up a toy that he likes. Even the toughest nut will usually crack for something like a piece of sardine or a baby-food hot dog.

If after a couple of times he just looks for the treat and ignores the toy: Good! You’re convincing him that the stuff you have is better than the stuff he has. That’s what you want him to think. You can either plan to do just a few repetitions each session, or you can gradually increase the value of the object he shares with you.

Once your dog has learned to play the give-and-take game, you can use it for objects other than toys. When he grabs something he shouldn’t have, such as your new Nikes or the remote control, instead of playing the “Chase” game, go get a nice treat and ask him to share. He should be happy to trade.

If your dog won’t trade you his object for the treat in your hand, or worse, starts to guard it aggressively, drop high-value treats on the ground in a trail that leads away from the object. When he drops it to follow the treat trail, wait until he is far away from it and have someone else pick it up, or leave him a large pile of treats and calmly walk back to the object and pick it up yourself. If necessary, Hansel-and-Gretel him with a treat trail into another room and close the door before you pick it up. Then reevaluate your training program to figure out where you went wrong, and consider calling in a professional to help you.

Paws rushes to take a toy. Don’t use your dog’s favorite toy at first. He should want it, but not be obsessed with it.
After just a couple of treats, Paws readily drops the ball for a treat. He doesn’t mind Sandi’s reach for the ball.
After more repetitions, Paws doesn’t want the toy at all. That’s fine! He should anticipate rewards for sharing.
Food Bowl Desensitization

This program can take four to eight months (or longer) to rehabilitate a serious food-guarder – and even then, your dog may never become completely trustworthy. If at any point you are fearful or feel inadequate to deal with the dog, call a qualified positive professional trainer or behaviorist. This program should be implemented only by adults or very responsible older teens. Do not move to the next phase before the minimum time indicated, or before the dog’s demeanor is perfectly calm at the previous phase. Also, keep in mind that following the program outlined below does not guarantee your safety.

Phase 1: No bowl (one to two weeks)

Place the dog’s daily meal in a bowl on a counter or shelf in his feeding room. Include some high-value treats as part of the meal. Schedule several feeding sessions throughout the day. Feed him one-quarter to one-tenth of his day’s ration in each session, a piece at a time, by hand. If he lunges aggressively at your hand while feeding, tether him and feed him his meals, a piece at a time, by tossing them from just out of lunging reach. Wait until he is sitting quietly each time to toss him another piece.

Phase 2: Empty bowl, single pieces (two to four weeks)

As he progresses, the dog’s expression should change from vigilant to relaxed.

Schedule several feeding sessions throughout the day. Place the dog’s daily meal in a bowl on a counter or shelf in his feeding room. Place his empty bowl on the ground at your feet. Alternate between feeding him several pieces from your hand, a piece at a time, and dropping several pieces of food, a piece at a time, into his food bowl from waist height. Wait until he has finished each piece before dropping the next.

Phase 3: Empty bowl, multiple pieces (two to four weeks)

During several feeding sessions throughout the day, place the dog’s daily meal in a bowl on a counter or shelf in his feeding room. Place his empty bowl on the ground at your feet. Drop several pieces of food into his food bowl and wait until he has finished them. Then feed him several pieces, one at a time, from your hand. Now drop several more pieces into his bowl. While he is eating those, drop more treats, one at a time, into his bowl from waist height.

Phase 4: Two partial bowls (two to four weeks)

Again, schedule several feedings throughout the day, and place the dog’s meal in a bowl on a counter or shelf in his feeding room. Put a handful of food in each of two bowls and place one bowl on the floor. Put lower-value food into the bowls; save the higher-value food for treat dropping. If you cannot safely put down the bowl in your dog’s presence, tether him, put him on a sit-stay, or shut him out of the room while you put the bowl down.

While he is eating from the first bowl, place the second bowl on the floor a safe distance away. “Safe” will depend on your dog, and could be as much as 10-15 feet or more. Err on the side of caution. Return to the first bowl and drop treats into it as he continues to eat.

When he has finished the first bowl, stop dropping treats and direct him to the second bowl. While he is eating from the second bowl, return to the first bowl and pick it up. Continue to drop treats into the bowl from which he is eating.

Over the two to four weeks of this phase, very gradually – a few inches at a time – place the bowls closer and closer together. Watch for signs of tension or aggression. If you see any, you have closed the distance too quickly; go back to the distance between bowls where he was relaxed and work at that distance for several days before moving the bowls closer together again.

Phase 5: Several partial bowls (two to four weeks)

Repeat the previous phase, using several bowls (up to six). You can prepare all the bowls at the same time and set them on the counter, but place them on the floor one at a time, while he is eating from the first bowl. Continue to drop treats into the bowl he is eating from, and occasionally pick up an empty one that is a safe distance from the dog. During this phase, reduce the number of meals to two or three. Also look for opportunities outside of feeding time to drop treats near the dog when he is in possession of other reasonably valuable items.

Phase 6: Calling the dog (two to four weeks)

Repeat Phase 5, except try to call the dog to you from a distance of six to eight feet just as he finishes the food in a bowl. Have the other bowls set out so he must pass you to go to another bowl. Be sure to give him a very high value treat when he comes to you. Gradually start asking him to come to you before he finishes the food in the bowl – first, when he is almost done, then when there is more and more left. As long as he stays relaxed, gradually move closer to the food bowl he is eating from before you call him.

Practice this phase for at least one full week before moving closer to him. Also, look for opportunities outside of feeding time to call him to you to feed him high value treats when he is in possession of other reasonably valuable items.

Phase 7: Adding people (two to six weeks)

Starting back at Phase 1, have a second person repeat the exercises. This should be another person who is close to the dog, not a child, and not a stranger. Have the person move through the phases, spending up to a week at each phase or longer if necessary. If he is doing well with a second person, add a third, then a fourth. Be sure to use people who are well-educated as to their training duties, and able to follow directions.

Phase 8: Coming out of the closet  (two to six weeks, for the rest of the dog’s life)

Again, starting back at Phase 1, move the food bowl exercises out of the dog’s feeding room into other areas of the house: the kitchen, the dining room, the den, etc. Assuming the training has been progressing well, you should be able to move through the phases relatively quickly. Continue to look for other real-life resource-relevant opportunities to reinforce the message that your presence means more good stuff. Remember that, depending on the success of your desensitization program, your resource-guarding dog may never be totally reliable in the presence of valuable items. For the rest of your dog’s life, always be aware of the environment and be prepared to intervene if there is a potential risk.

The Facts You Need Before Feeding Your Dog a Fiber Regiment

By
Nancy Kerns
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[Updated October 19, 2017]

Recently there has been renewed interest in fiber as a dog food ingredient. One pet food manufacturer published an article on the Internet condemning beet pulp in dog food as unhealthy, if not downright dangerous. There is a lot of myth and misunderstanding concerning fiber, so let’s take a closer look at this controversial ingredient.

The term “fiber” (or “roughage”) applies to complex carbohydrates that are resistant to mammalian digestive enzymes, although certain bacteria possess the enzymes needed to break them down. Even ruminants, with their four-chambered stomachs and cud-chewing habits, rely on their symbiotic rumen bacteria to digest plant fiber.

Fiber is found only in plants – hair, hooves, bones, fish scales, and feathers do not contain any fiber. Fiber is composed of polysaccharides (complex sugars), and is found in plant cell walls, where it provides structural strength and rigidity.

fiber dog food

While some food manufacturers use whole grains and vegetables to serve as both a source of nutrients and fiber – the method WDJ most admires – many others use dedicated fiber sources such as beet pulp, peanut shells, oat and other brans, tomato pomace, buckwheat and other grain hulls, psyllium, fruit pectin, guar gum and other gums, flaxseed, and powdered cellulose. This last one is defined as “purified, mechanically disintegrated cellulose . . . from fibrous plant materials.” I fondly refer to it as “sawdust,” which I believe is a fair description (though technically, wood contains a related fiber called lignin in addition to cellulose).

What Fiber Has to Offer Dogs

It’s true that the “wild” canine diet contains very little fiber, and the dog has no absolute physiologic need for it. However, dogs eating processed commercial foods do appear to benefit from the addition of fiber.

While fiber itself is indigestible and generally considered non-nutritive, some fibers do contain nutrients, such as vitamins and minerals, that can be extracted during digestion, either by the mechanical grinding action of the stomach and intestines, or through bacterial fermentation in the colon. However, the nutrients present in fiber are not the reason it is often included in dog fods.

Fiber’s major contribution to commercial dog food is modulation of the digestive process; the fiber content of a food greatly affects the speed of passage of food through the digestive system. Fiber’s moisture-absorbing and lubricating actions can slow down peristalsis (the muscular contractions of the intestine that push food through the tract) in cases of diarrhea, or speed it up in the case of constipation. In other words, fiber has a normalizing effect on the gut.

The presence of adequate fiber allows time for absorption of nutrients and water from the intestine into the blood. Some fibers also impart mucilaginous (slippery) qualities to the food, helping it “slide” along the gut walls. Certain fibers increase the rate of stomach emptying (this is one theory behind feline “hairball” diets), while others slow it down. Fiber binds some toxins in the gut and eliminates them in the stool.

Types of Fiber

Fiber is usually characterized by describing its solubility and fermentability. These terms are used for different properties, and any one fiber can be described in terms of either trait. Cellulose, for instance, is both insoluble and nonfermentable, while guar gum is soluble and fermentable. Others lie on a continuum between these two extremes. These terms evolved as the technology for analyzing fiber improved.

However, the method used to assay “crude fiber” as stated on a dog food label is actually a very poor technique, and fails to detect most of the lignan, hemicellulose, and even some of the plain cellulose. Thus, the actual level of fiber in a dog food may be considerably underestimated by the outdated Crude Fiber method.

Soluble fibers are considered more digestible than insoluble fibers and will dissolve in water. Soluble fiber dissolves in water to form a viscous gel, which may aid in food passage through the gut. Insoluble fiber tends to speed up gut motility.

Fermentable fibers are those that yield nutrients that can be used for energy by the body. Soluble fibers tend to be more fermentable than insoluble fibers. Bacterial digestion of these fibers produces short-chain fatty acids (SCFAs) such as proprionate, acetate, and butyrate. Butyrate is thought to be beneficial to the cells lining the colon. These SCFAs can be absorbed by the animal and used as an energy source, acidify the colonic environment, and draw water into the stool by osmosis. Basically, they keep the colon bacteria happy, and this is the reasoning behind use of fructo-oligosaccharides found in such plants as chicory and yucca in dog food.

Fiber and Medical Conditions

It has been thought for many years that high fiber diets are “more filling” and provide increased satiety. Thus, weight loss diets have traditionally included high fiber as well as less fat. However, a new study has reported that fiber appears to have no effect at all on a dog’s appetite; no matter how much fiber a food contained, all dogs were willing to eat a “challenge” meal given an hour later. Other researchers have suggested that the primary mechanism of weight loss produced by “light” diets may be decreased palatability.

The ability of certain fibers to decrease intestinal transit time is the theory behind feeding high-fiber foods to diabetics. The addition of fiber slows absorption, resulting in a more stable blood glucose level over time.

While different fibers behave differently depending on the composition of the diet and the individual metabolism of the dog, it seems clear that excessive fiber increases fecal bulk, frequency of defecation, and may produce loose stools and flatulence.

Beet Pulp Fiction

Beet pulp seems to be the main target for much of the misinformation flying around about fiber. Here are a couple of the untruths currently being promulgated about beet pulp:

MYTH 1: Kibble containing beet pulp swells up in the stomach and causes bloat. This is based on the observation that extruded kibble that gets wet (i.e., dropped into the water bowl) will indeed expand, and any of us with sloppy dogs (or playful cats) have seen the evidence with our own eyes. However, baked food does not swell, and several baked foods also contain beet pulp.

The expansion of wet kibble is mainly due to the air trapped in the pellet as it “pops” from the extruder. The other thing to notice about wet kibble is how easily it breaks apart. Far from forming “an indigestible mass” in the stomach, this property of kibble probably helps speed its passage from the stomach and ultimate digestion.

MYTH 2: Beet pulp is full of sugar and can cause diabetes. Pulp is a by-product of sugar extraction from sugar beets. Sugar manufacturers, obviously, extract every last little bit of sugar from the pulp before they sell the pulp off for drying and use in dog food. There is no evidence that beet pulp causes diabetes.

MYTH 3: The saponins in beet pulp cause bloat. Saponins are basically soaps, which cause an increase in surface tension of a liquid. While normal water forms bubbles, they burst rapidly. Soap allows the molecules to stick together longer. Saponins are found in beets, legumes like alfalfa and beans (including soybeans), and hundreds of other plants. Saponins are specifically associated with one type of bloat (“frothy” bloat) in ruminants (cows and goats), but this is completely unrelated to the “gassy” type of bloat that dogs can suffer from.

MYTH 4: The saponins in beet pulp contains paralytic toxins. There are thousands of saponins; the soybean alone contains at least five different ones. The highly biased claim that all saponins (or even all soy and beet saponins) are toxic is ignorant and inaccurate. According to one expert, “From the biological point of view, saponins have diverse properties, some deleterious but many beneficial.”

Medicinal herbs such as ginseng, licorice, and alfalfa contain helpful bioactive saponins. Digitalis is a saponin that is extremely toxic in high doses, but has saved millions of lives as the basis for digoxin, a drug used to treat congestive heart failure. Saponins are largely destroyed by processing such as soaking and cooking; it is unlikely they have any biological effect when consumed in dog food.

Overall, I don’t have any objection to beet pulp. For a normal animal, I’d probably choose a food that contains beet pulp or pomace – the more fermentable fibers – over peanut hulls or cellulose. And I’d pick a food that contained a whole-food source of fiber (such as oatmeal or tomatoes) over one that included beet pulp or any other food fraction for its fiber source.

To Sum It Up

As you can see, fiber does play a useful role in commercial dog food. It probably doesn’t significantly contribute to whole body nutrition, but can provide important nutrients of value to the cells and bacteria of the colon. Fiber may actually prevent absorption of some toxins.

Most dog foods range from 1-10 percent in fiber content on the guaranteed analysis; moderate levels of fiber, in the 2-4 percent range, may be a realistic goal when selecting a dog food. In amounts of more than 10 percent, fiber increases stool volume and has a negative effect on stool firmness.

Each manufacturer uses different types of fiber to obtain specific results. Each will vigorously defend its particular source or combination as the best, but they can’t all be right! Aside from minor variations in each fiber source’s effects, which one any given healthy dog consumes will probably not matter too much. However, if your dog has any specific health issue, you may want to ask your veterinarian which type of fiber she recommends for that condition.

And, as usual, WDJ prefers foods that utilize whole foods, rather than isolated food fragments (by-products of other food manufacturing processes) that lack the balance and natural cofactors of the real thing.

Dr. Jean Hofve is the Companion Animal Program Coordinator for the Animal Protection Institute, located in Sacramento, CA.

How to Stop Lunging Behavior

By
Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA
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My nine-month-old Bouvier puppy is in training, but I am having trouble finding a positive way to stop his lunging; he is very strong. I am using a choke chain, and my current trainer feels I’m not firm enough in my corrections. I don’t feel comfortable using the choker, but also don’t like the idea of the Halti because it might be even more dangerous if he lunged.

-Carol via e-mail

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Pat Miller, WDJ’s Dog Training Editor, answers this question for us. Miller offers private and group dog training classes from her base in Fairplay, Maryland. For contact information, click here.

Miller responds:

Kudos to you for resisting your trainer’s advice to jerk harder on your pup’s choke chain. Choke chains have been shown to cause spinal subluxations in dogs that were trained with them. In worst-case scenarios, trainers using choke chains have damaged and collapsed dogs’ tracheas, and in some cases even killed dogs.

Head halters are, if used correctly, a much safer way to manage lunging while you train your pup to act properly on leash. I prefer the Snoot Loop and the Gentle Leader to the Halti, as the Halti seems more susceptible to slipping off the dog’s nose (see “Head Halters Right and Wrong,” WDJ June 2000). I recommend using two leashes – one clipped to the head halter, the other to the dog’s regular collar. If he lunges, you can absorb the shock with the regular collar, then use gentle pressure on the head halter to turn him away from the object of his attention.

Then, of course, you must reward the appropriate behavior with a reward marker (such as the Click! of a clicker or the word “Yes!”), followed by a yummy treat. If you use the halter without the marker and treat, you are managing his behavior, but not training him to offer you the correct behavior voluntarily. If you only manage the behavior without training, you may always need the halter to control him. If you train him to perform the desired behavior by rewarding him when he’s not lunging, you should eventually be able to wean him off the halter.

If you are really concerned about using the head halter you can try the J.S. Sporn Halter (actually a harness, which tightens around the dog’s legs and chest when he pulls). Again, you will need to actually train the behavior you want, not just rely on the equipment to change your dog’s behavior.

Socialization is important
It’s also important to understand why he’s lunging, and to work on training him out of that behavior as well. Is it aggression, or is he lunging out of a friendly desire to visit approaching people or dogs? Either way, avoid verbal or physical punishment (corrections). If he begins to associate pain or stress with the approach of others, he may well become aggressive.

Instead, teach him a rewarding, incompatible behavior – such as looking at you with rapt attention – using Clicks! and tasty treats, so he associates the approach of others with really wonderful stuff coming from you. If he is lunging at other dogs because he wants to go play with them, teach him that the way to get to go play with other dogs is to be calm and sit looking up at you. Do this by always having him sit and pay attention before you release him to go play.

More and more trainers are coming to realize the value of positive training methods. You might want to ask your trainer if she will allow you to use positive methods in your class, or find one who can help you train more positively.

The Benefits of Feeding Your Dog Milk

By
CJ Puotinen
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19
© Vitalii Shcherbyna | Dreamstime

Q: My dog drinks about a half-cup of organic milk (same as I drink) with his evening meal. He is a strong, healthy 10-year-old dog, and has never had any problems with arthritis or digestive troubles. My husband, though, is certain that milk is bad for dogs. I look at my dog and feel certain I’ve been doing things right; he looks great. Is there any reason to discontinue his milk?

Kate Mueller
Cincinnati, OH

We asked CJ Puotinen, a frequent contributor to WDJ, to answer this question. Puotinen is the author of The Encyclopedia of Natural Pet Care and Natural Remedies for Dogs and Cats.

A: Milk is a controversial food. Some pet nutritionists say milk and dairy products are perfect foods, while others blame them for every canine disorder from ear infections to cancer.

The truth lies somewhere in between. Raw, organically grown, unpasteurized, unhomogenized milk straight from a healthy cow or goat can be an excellent food for dogs of every description. After all, it has been for thousands of years. Unfortunately, America’s supermarkets stopped selling raw, whole milk long ago. Supporters of the Campaign for Real Milk, a grassroots movement that advocates a return to humane, organic dairy farming, small-scale dairy food processing, and the sale of good-quality raw milk, documents many problems with America’s milk supply. Today’s dairy cattle are often raised in crowded conditions, fed inappropriate feed, and dosed with hormones, antibiotics, and other drugs that disrupt or alter the production of milk while leaving their residues in dairy products.

But that’s not all! Most of the organically grown milk and cream sold in America’s supermarkets and health food stores is ultrapasteurized and homogenized, which makes it an inappropriate food for dogs.

The two most common methods of pasteurization heat milk to 145 degrees F for 30 minutes (low temperature, long time) or to 161 degrees F for 15 seconds (high temperature, short time). Both methods kill nearly all the bacteria, yeast, molds, and enzymes in milk. Another method, ultra-pasteurization, was developed to give slow-selling products a longer shelf life. These products are heated to 280 degrees F or higher for at least two seconds and packaged in an aseptic atmosphere in sterilized containers. The high temperatures destroy proteins as well as enzymes and bacteria, giving these products a cooked taste.

Pasteurization, which is intended to kill harmful bacteria, is ineffective against drug-resistant strains of salmonella. In addition, pasteurization and ultrapasteurization alter milk’s amino acids, promote the rancidity of unsaturated fatty acids, and destroy vitamins and enzymes. In homogenization, jets of milk collide under high pressure, breaking fat molecules into tiny particles that remain distributed rather than floating to the top. These particles can enter the human and canine bloodstream, explaining why homogenization has been blamed by some researchers for heart disease and circulatory problems.

In most states, the sale of raw, whole milk is illegal, but some states allow raw milk to be sold for pet use, and some allow consumers to buy raw milk directly from dairy farms. Your local health food store may be able to help you find a supplier, as can the Campaign for Real Milk.

Fortunately, the U.S. Food and Drug Administration considers raw milk cheese to be safe if properly aged. Connoisseurs agree that the world’s finest cheeses are made from raw rather than pasteurized milk, and some have an international following. Raw cheeses are available in specialty shops, health food stores, and a few upscale markets. Warning: Some are incredibly smelly – and expensive! Your health food store is a likely source of mild, affordable raw milk cheeses that hold their shape when cut and make high-reward treats for dogs.

Hands-Free Dog Leashes

By
Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA
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With more than 25 years of working with animals professionally under my belt, I don’t find many new product concepts that come as a total and pleasant surprise to me. What a delight, then, to test hands-free leashes for Whole Dog Journal and discover that the best of these products, which started making their appearance in the pet supply retail market in recent years, offer far more than just a convenient way to free up your hands while walking your dog on leash.

Few things irritate me more than having a dog constantly tugging on the leash. Thanks to my new doggie daycare center, I now find myself in the position of walking untrained dogs far more frequently than before. With some trepidation, I decided to test the hands-free leash products on my daycare dogs. The first candidate was a large, rambunctious Old English Sheepdog with poor leash manners. I buckled one of the hands-free gadgets around my waist and set out across the parking lot.

Warning: If you decide to use one of these products, the greatest danger is rampant ridicule. Be prepared to fend off guffaws and wisecracks. Just as I stepped out the daycare door with MacDuff attached to my body, my landlord stepped out of his office across the blacktop parking lot, and broke into uproarious laughter. I smiled boldly, waved, and continued on.

When MacDuff reached the end of the leash and began to pull, I stopped. It was surprisingly easy to let my hips and lower back absorb the mild impact. MacDuff, feeling no give in the leash at all, quickly backed off the end of the leash a foot or so. I started forward again. It took just a few repetitions of the stop-start routine for MacDuff to realize that if he wanted to get to the grass to relieve his bladder he had to stop pulling.

I was amazed. I had tried the same routine earlier that day with this 80-pound bulldozer on a traditional leash, with no improvement whatsoever in the pulling behavior. I can only surmise that despite my best efforts, when he pulled on the regular leash there was a certain amount of give in my arm. With the waist-belt it was much easier for me to effectively prevent him from moving forward at all, thereby preventing him from getting any reward for pulling. I found the hands-free leash just as effective with several other pullers, from Pete the black Lab-mix to Jeep, the Boston Terrier.

I was concerned initially that the concept of a waist-leash might be contraindicated for someone with back problems. Dog walkers with such a condition should consult with their physician before using this product. But one of my clients with a bad back and a big Rhodesian Ridgeback found the hands-free leash much kinder to her back. When Gator pulled on a traditional leash, it torqued her sideways. With the hands-free leash, she could brace squarely and absorb the shock evenly and comfortably across her hips.

The only remaining concern I have is the size and strength of the person relative to the size and strength of the dog. Anyone walking a dog on a hands-free leash must outweigh the dog by enough to act as a solid anchor when the dog pulls. Children or frail people would not be any more able to control a pulling or lunging dog with a hands-free leash than they would be with a regular leash; in fact, the hands-free model could very well put them at risk of being toppled over or even dragged by a very large or strong dog. And while some of the products are marketed as being a useful accoutrement for joggers, I personally would not want to be suddenly yanked by the waist by a lunging dog while running.

As daunting as this concern sounds, I do think that hands-free leashes have something to offer the average person and the average dog. One definite advantage is the freedom granted to those of us who train with a clicker and treats. No longer do you have to juggle the leash, clicker, and food rewards – you’ve got one hand for the treats and one for the clicker; the leash takes care of itself. Need to scoop a pile of poop? Again, no worries over trying to manage the leash while doing the plastic bag thing. Have a problem with the dog pulling the leash out of your hand and taking off down the street without you? Not anymore!

As always, WDJ looks for value in the products we review. Convinced that the hands-free leash concept had something to offer, we focused on the criteria of cost, quality of materials and construction, safety, comfort, and ease of use as we tested four different models to see how they fared.

Please note that in this discussion, our “Safety” criterion relates to the product’s ability to hold the dog securely, without exposing him to harm. Because (as we already discussed) all of these products pose some risk of tripping or dragging the handler if used inappropriately (such as with a strong, untrained dog and a small or weak handler), we regard them as equally safe for the handler. We did note which products include quick-release snaps; such snaps could protect a handler from being dragged by an out-of-control, strong dog. However, releasing the dog, obviously, would expose him to the many dangers of being loose.

Unique designs
Often, when we review specialty or “niche” products, we can find only minute differences in the products’ designs. But each of the hands-free dog-walking products we reviewed takes a very different approach.

For example, the High Sierra Walk-A-Belt is all about the dog walker’s comfort. This was the first hands-free product we tested, and the one that convinced us that hands-free was a wonderful concept.

The Walk-A-Belt’s comfortable design is unparalleled. As the name suggests, this product is simply a belt that a person can use for anchoring a leash – you have to provide the leash! The belt comes in two styles, felt- or fleece-lined, both made of top quality materials and more than two inches wide for maximum comfort. The belt rests on your hips rather than around your waist, to provide maximum safety and comfort. The nylon straps are strong and well-stitched, with sturdy metal and plastic fittings. Buckle the belt on, snap the handle of your dog’s regular leash into the carabiner provided for this purpose, and off you go! One model has a sturdy plastic buckle; another has a strong metal snap. You also have the option of ordering one with a quick-release snap.

If you are training a dog who pulls, the High Sierra Walk-A-Belt would be the most comfortable and secure for you to wear.

The J. M. Rogers Company’s Dog Jogger is a very serviceable hands-free belt and leash combination. It is exceptionally well constructed, with high-quality nylon webbing, sturdy plastic clasps on the belt portion, and a strong metal snap that attaches to the dog’s collar.

We prefer the extra wide webbing on the belt of this brand over the narrow straps of the Safe Pet and Buddy System brands that follow. Although the fabric is not our favorite kind of soft and smooth nylon, its width enables the belt to be worn resting comfortably on the hips rather than snug around the waist. While the lack of padding makes the Dog Jogger less comfortable that the White Pines belt, it also makes it cooler – a significant factor in summer heat and humidity.

We appreciate the detachable leash feature: The leash snaps easily on and off the belt and can be held in the hand as a regular leash when desired.

The Safe Pet Hands-Free Leash is the least-complicated product we examined. Made of high quality, strong, soft, and supple webbing and sturdy plastic fittings, this is simply a nylon leash that terminates in an easily adjustable loop that clips around your waist. Should you choose, the loop can be minimized to a hand-sized loop and function as a regular leash as well.

We liked this product, and its coolness around the waist, but, as with the Dog Jogger, we found the waist fit less comfortable than the hip-hugging White Pine model.

The Buddy System hands-free leash incorporates numerous innovative features not found in any of the other models we tested. One innovation is a quick-release collar attachment that makes it easy to release and reattach your dog quickly. The quick-release buckle at the end of the leash also enables you to snap the end back to the waist belt if you release your dog, so you don’t have to carry the leash as you walk or jog. Cool!

It’s also extremely adjustable. The leash can be shortened or lengthened (from 22-40 inches) while attached to the belt, and also can be used as a regular leash when released from the belt. The company also offers “Extra Buddy” ($16) an extra piece that enables you to attach a second dog to the waist belt, and “Extend-A-Buddy” ($6), a piece that increases the length of the leash by 18” to 36”. Plus, the Buddy System comes in a wide variety of sizes. Their “little dog” model (for dogs under 20 pounds) uses three-quarter-inch webbing and costs just $18. The larger dog models use one-inch webbing, and come in three human waist sizes, from 22-40, 27-50, and 33-60 inches.

However, in our opinion, the nylon material used is of a slightly lower quality than that used in the Safe Pet product, the stitching on the seams appeared a little minimal, and on the item we tested, the metal collar snap was extremely stiff and difficult to release. If the company were to improve the quality of materials used, we would give this product our top rating. However, a person who wants 20 different ways to secure his dog to his body would probably like this product best, even as it is now.

The BP Jogger takes a totally different approach to the hands-free concept. It’s a leash made of a 24-inch plastic coil that stretches to 72 inches, with a Velcro-fastened cuff that is secured around your upper arm.

We don’t like this product for this particular application. The company’s literature explains that as the plastic coil extends when the dog pulls, its tension increases, which encourages the dog to stop pulling. We thought it worked in the exact opposite way. Despite the increased tension, the ability to stretch, we think, rewards the dog for pulling – he gets to move toward whatever he wants to see or sniff.

We liked the idea of the coiling leash; the fact that it could keep you from having to constantly release and take up the slack when the dog moves around is an attractive concept. But, in practice, the stretchiness prevents the handler from effectively restraining the dog within the Jogger’s six-foot limit. If a dog were to dart ahead of you at a bad time, there wouldn’t be much you could do to stop him. It’s like grabbing a dropped phone receiver by the middle of the cord – because the cord stretches, the receiver hits the floor anyway. It would be great, though, if you were walking somewhere that was perfectly safe for a dog to range around a six-foot perimeter.

Then there is the matter of fastening this leash to your upper arm; we found it to be an uncomfortable way to carry a leash, and the discomfort increases when a dog pulls. If you are really excited about the coiling feature, consider the BP Walker made by the same company – not at all a hands-free product, but the same coiling leash with a nylon loop handle on the end.

Also With This Article
Click here to view “Off Leash Training: Building Reliability”
Click here to view “How To Train Your Dog for Off Leash Walks”

One Dog Toy Does Not Fit All Dogs

By
Nancy Kerns
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Regarding your review of toy balls (“Best Dog Ball Brands for Playing Fetch,” WDJ August 2001): We give a wholehearted FOUR stars to the Jolly Ball at our house, and from two years experience with them, I have to disagree with the reasons you rated this a three-star toy. Our dogs (one of which is a dead ringer for the one pictured) are brutal with their two Jolly Balls. Neither ball has been destroyed, and quite frankly, the dogs love them so much that I have to hide them so we can play MY favorite game: Frisbee.

The Jolly Ball is also very easy for me to throw. I fling it by the handle. My husband kicks it like a soccer ball. It’s easy for the dog to pick up and it looks adorable hanging out one side of our dog’s mouth, as seen in the enclosed photo.

We vote four stars and four paws up for this one!

-Tina McGugan
Palatine, IL

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I have to comment on the review of the Jolly Ball you put in the August 2001 issue. You state that it held up well, despite a few tooth marks in the ball, even after several days of play.

I’m wondering what dog breeds you used for this test. I have a three-year-old male Whippet who has chewed off most of the handle and that was the first time I gave it to him over a year ago! I doubt it has improved since then, but he is only allowed to play with it when I am with him and can take it away when he starts to chew the handle.

I recommend that you print something about the Jolly Ball not being a good toy for super-chewers and to never leave a dog alone with it for long.

-Stephanie Russell
via e-mail

We’re sticking with our assessment and rating of the Jolly Ball. All of our test dogs love the balls – but some of our test dogs have trashed their Jolly Balls. My sister’s Jack Russell Terrier, Patrick, chewed the handle off within days. As we mentioned in the sidebar (Safety First: Use Common Sense), “Leave no toy unattended with any dog, anytime.” A compelling case for this admonition is contained in the following letter.

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I have been breeding, showing, and training dogs for more than 15 years. I am also a professional dog groomer. I do everything with my dogs: conformation, flyball, obedience, and everything else.

I bought the Teaser Ball and within less than three minutes of having it, one of my Jack Russell Terrier’s had her head STUCK in one of the outside holes. It did not appear that this would happen, but it did. If I had not been standing right there she may have been seriously injured or even broken her neck. It was very difficult for me to remove the ball it was that stuck on her neck.

Please let your readers know of this danger. I am in no way a novice dog owner and I did not expect this to happen. I do not want anyone’s dog injured.

-Coleen Timmons, Stealth Terriers
via e-mail

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Choosing the Right Shelter Dog

Just a few comments on your article about Sue Sternberg’s shelter dog evaluations (“How to Choose the Best Shelter Dog for Your Family,” WDJ July 2001). As you noted in your article, Ms. Sternberg is very rigid in her requirements of potential adoptees. If all dogs lived up to her ideals, they probably wouldn’t be in a shelter to begin with.

I, for one, wouldn’t think of harassing my dogs while they were eating (to test for temperament?). Would you like to be prodded while you were eating? Many of her issues are valid, but we would certainly eliminate the overpopulation problem if we euthanized dogs that didn’t comply with her requirements.

We all know that most shelter animals have issues that with a little love, work, and understanding can be resolved. I believe anyone that strictly adheres to these adoption guidelines is better off with a stuffed animal.

-Susan Miller
Carmel, NY

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Thanks so much for your article on selecting the best shelter dogs. I volunteer at my local shelter, and I cry every time we have to euthanize sweet, quiet, wonderful (sometimes older) dogs who have stayed too long in the shelter. Many of these nice dogs are not adopted because people would rather take home a puppy, or a “tough-looking” dog, or a dog that looks like one they saw on TV. People pick dogs for the stupidest reasons! And it’s incredibly hard on the dogs (and the shelter staffers) when a dog goes home with a family that is obviously not ready or able to deal with its challenges – food aggression, fighting with other dogs, awful leash manners, whatever – and is returned to the shelter a few days later. Often, after a bad experience, people will decide not to get a dog at all.

Any dog who passes all of Sternberg’s tests will be a good candidate for any family. Well-mannered, safe, and affectionate dogs should never have to be put to sleep so that people can try (and usually fail) to make a challenging, aggressive dog get along in a world unsuited to its temperament.

-Name withheld by request
San Diego, CA

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Is your dog suffering from separation anxiety or is it another form of distress.
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Is it Really Separation Anxiety?

Nancy Kerns 3
I have never owned a dog with separation anxiety, thank goodness. The condition is hard on the dog who suffers from the condition and hard on the dog’s caretakers, too, including owners, vets, groomers, pet sitters, and dog walkers. Care must be taken to prevent triggering the dog’s panic at being left alone—in severe cases, even just long enough for the person caring for the dog to use the restroom!
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