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Hospice Care and Veterinary-Assisted Death

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by Denise Flaim

“Life is pleasant. Death is peaceful,” mused author Isaac Asimov. “It’s the transition that’s troublesome.”

Our culture’s ambivalence about death is no secret and no surprise. Leaving this mortal coil can be messy and exhausting, both physically and emotionally. So with our companion animals, we oftentimes beat death to the punch, scheduling it on our own terms by taking that teary-eyed ride to the vet’s office and saying a final goodbye on a tiled floor or steel table.

Susan Marino of Fort Salonga, New York, has devoted her life to helping companion animals go gently – and naturally – into that good night. A former intensive-care pediatrics nurse and a licensed vet tech, the 54-year-old is the founder of Angel’s Gate, the country’s first and only residential hospice for animals. More than 100 dying and disabled animals call Marino’s suburban Long Island ranch house home, from Rottweilers to Rat Terriers, calicos to cockatoos. And all but a handful have died there without euthanasia, in a home rather than a hospital setting.

“People think they may want to do hospice, but it’s not something that most people know anything about,” says Marino, who, with this writer, is the author of Getting Lucky: How One Special Dog Found Love and a Second Chance at Angel’s Gate (Stewart, Tabori & Chang, 2005). The same often applies to veterinary professionals: “Vets learned in school that when animals get sick with no hope of getting better, you don’t want them to suffer, so you euthanize them,” she says. “Many of them have never seen an animal die a natural death.”

Recognizing this emotional dissonance with the animals many of us love as family members, the American Veterinary Medical Association released its Guidelines for Veterinary Hospice Care in 2001. Less than a page and a half long, the 11-point document underscores that the hospice experience helps “the respectful closure of each unique human-animal bond” and stresses that “patients should be kept as free from pain as possible and in a sanitary state,” but does not offer many specifics.

And that is precisely the problem. Almost every day, Marino says, she fields a desperate phone call from someone who wants a terminally ill animal to die at home, but cannot find anyone to explain how.

Support at a difficult time
Jeffrey Krauss, 48, of Manhattan, is a case in point. In 2004, his 17-year-old cat, Babe, was diagnosed with kidney failure. When he told the vet he wanted to take her home to die, “I was scolded for being cruel.”

Krauss found the Angel’s Gate Web site and contacted Marino, who explained how to administer subcutaneous injections to keep Babe hydrated and comfortable. “She died a few days after we brought her home, which is what I was told would happen,” Krauss says. “But she didn’t die alone. I grieved, but was very comfortable with that decision.”

Last summer, when Krauss’s 8½-year-old black Lab, Mango, was diagnosed with kidney disease, he called Marino again. Mango needed to be hydrated with fluids. As problems arose – why was Mango shaking so much? – Marino gave suggestions: Mango can’t regulate her body temperature well, so make sure the IV fluid is warmed, and place heated towels around her.

Mango lived for five months after her diagnosis. She had bad days and good days, including “two miraculous ones that were real rare gifts,” Krauss remembers.

Self-analysis
It’s memories like those that are the whole point of hospice, Marino says. “Doing hospice allows me to intentionally spend good, quality time with the animals I care about, to say goodbye in a gentle, loving way,” she says. “I get to write the final chapter in that animal’s life.”

But just as all writers have different tones, choose different words, and focus on different angles, so too will all those final stories vary. Some caretakers will see their animal to the end; others will choose a point beyond which they will not venture. Still others may decide to end the chapter before it even begins.

“There is no right or wrong. Hospice is a decision that needs to come from your heart,” says Marino. “It’s a matter of choices, and it’s important to remember that we have them.”

To that end, here are some questions to consider in making the commitment to provide hospice care for a companion animal:

• Will my vet support my decision?

Though it seems counterintuitive, this is a question you need to ask while your dog is still healthy.

If you wait until a terminal diagnosis before broaching it, “the conversation is going to be clouded and very difficult,” Marino says. “Like anything else, the outcome will be much better if you’re prepared ahead of time.”

Ask some questions about the vet’s policy on euthanasia. Is she willing to work with someone who wants to care for a dying dog at home? Are there any circumstances under which she would not be supportive of doing hospice?

Once you have the conversation, keep reinforcing it, suggests Marino. “Every time you have your dog in for a wellness exam, reiterate it to make sure he hasn’t changed his mind. It’s very easy for a vet to say yes when there’s nothing going on. But that way, he also gets to know you and gets to know what your heart is all about.”

As in any partnership, trust between you and your veterinarian is essential. Consider pain relief. Veterinarians can prescribe controlled substances such as Butrophenol and Valium to keep a dog comfortable, but many are reluctant to send those drugs home with a dog because of concern that the drugs may be misused. “Your vet has to know when he or she hands over that narcotic that you’re going to use it properly,” Marino says.

If you are truly committed to providing hospice, then you need your veterinarian to embody the literal meaning of the word “doctor,” which comes from the Latin verb docere, meaning “to teach.”

“A doctor’s responsibility is to educate you so you can make informed choices, not to make choices for you,” Marino says. “A lot of times, people don’t want that responsibility. They want their vet to say, ‘It’s time to give up.’

“You need to decide what person you are,” she continues. “Do you want to be in charge, do you want the vet to be in charge, or do you want a mix of what’s in the middle?” Once you are clear on your own comfort level, then you can find the veterinarian who will best help you reach it.

• What illness am I dealing with, and do I understand the course it will take?

“You need to really research what’s going on with the animal, and understand what the disease process is,” says Marino. “You need to ask your vet what the end is going to be like. Are there going to be seizures? Will the animal have difficulty breathing?”

With some disorders, such as kidney disease, dogs can have relatively good quality of life until the very end. “If you’re consistent with giving fluids, that hydration is a sort of mini-dialysis for the kidneys,” she explains. Often, as the end nears, dogs follow a similar trajectory: They refuse food for a few days, then around the fourth day refuse water, and pass soon after.

“On that third day, often they perk up and eat,” Marino says of the pattern she’s observed. “They seem brighter, and you might think things are going to get better. But soon after, they’re gone.”

Other diseases are more complicated. With degenerative myelopathy, an immune-mediated paralysis that begins in the rear and moves progressively forward, a dog can live for a year or longer, depending on diet and stress levels. But ultimately, as the disease advances, the diaphragm will be affected, making breathing difficult and opening the door to pneumonia and other respiratory problems.

Because it is so hard on an animal, compromised breathing is often a sign that hospice should be ended and euthanasia considered. Denise Juliano of Lake Grove, New York, eventually euthanized her Collie, Winston, when his breathing became labored from lung cancer. But six months earlier, when her veterinarian gave her the bad news and suggested euthanasia, she looked at her still-active dog and decided to keep him comfortable for as long as she could.

“I don’t regret those extra months with Winston,” Juliano adds. “More than anything it was a lot of messes; he would throw up a lot, and he became incontinent on and off.” But that was minor compared to the joy of having Winston in her life for a few more months.

• Do I have the time?

“Dying is an evolution, a process,” Marino says. “In the beginning, the dog may not mind being left alone, and it’s not going to be a 24-hour job. There might be some back and forth to the vet, but that can be done on evenings and weekends.”

Eventually, though, the time will come when your dog will need you in attendance pretty much every day. At that point, you may need to take a leave of absence from your job, or hire someone to come to your home several times a day to walk or medicate the dog.

Flexibility is absolutely essential. “If you’re a person who likes structure and rigidity, you may have a hard time with hospice care,” Marino says, adding that your social life will be essentially nonexistent. “Animals can go into remission, they can have really good days and really bad days, and you have to be resigned to that.”

During the last three months of Mango’s life, Krauss carried the 60-pound dog down from his third-floor brownstone triplex every two hours because she refused to soil in the house. “That wasn’t easy, and I didn’t get much sleep, but I did it,” he says. “I like to think that if I were the dog and she were the human, she would do the same for me.”

Krauss points out that it’s not just the sheer time devoted to hospice care that’s demanding, but the quality of the time itself. “You have to be present as the animal you love deteriorates, knowing she will not get better,” he says. “You cannot be emotionally absent.”

• Do I have the funds?

“This is not a cheap investment,” Marino says. While it might sound crass, “you need to ask yourself, ‘How much am I willing to invest?’ I know people who are willing to take out a second mortgage to give their dog another six months of life. But if you are a working single mom with three kids and you’re giving up your grocery money so your dog can be treated, you have to check the wisdom and practicality of that.”

Cancer treatments such as chemotherapy and radiation might prolong a dog’s life, but they cost thousands of dollars. Those too squeamish to perform simple procedures such as subcutaneous injections can take their dog to the vet daily, or hire a licensed vet tech to come over and give them – all at a steep price.

Certainly, the more work a caretaker is willing to do herself, the less the financial impact. But the expenses will mount up: time off from work, the cost of dog sitters when you cannot be home, and supplies “more than likely will run in the thousands,” Marino warns.

• Can the humans in my life cope?

For all its moments of deep connection and quiet joy, hospice is very stressful, putting a strain on your energy, finances, time – and relationships. If there is any friction in your family situation, hospice will inevitably bring it to the surface.

“It’s so important to have a family in agreement; I have seen an animal dying in a home cause absolute turmoil,” Marino says. “Every family member has to lay his or her cards on the table and present what part they want to play. Some want to be more involved than others, but no one should be criticized for something they can’t give, or if someone else gives more.”

Such honesty forestalls any resentment on the part of a more involved caretaker who might be tempted to accuse another of not doing enough. Speaking of that last word, caretakers need to be very explicit about defining it. “The family has to be in agreement on when enough is enough. For some people, the dog becoming incontinent would be enough. For others, it’s when the dog can’t get up,” says Marino. “‘Enough is enough’ varies according to what people are willing to tolerate.”

But for many, the strain and exhaustion are a small footnote to the experience itself. “We went through the dying process that you would go through if a family member was dying at home,” concludes Krauss.

“There are tremendous gifts and learning that come from that: That you can care for a dying animal that you love even though it’s hard. That you can release them to let them go on. And that you can show them that even in their sickness, they are lovable.”

The down and often dirty
“Life is messy,” says Marino. “It’s not neat and clean.” The same goes for hospice care. Incontinence and vomiting, unpredictable ups and downs in an animal’s condition – all can seem like insurmountable obstacles unless a caretaker is perfectly prepared for them. Here are some essentials you’ll want to have at the ready:

• Diapers. The baby (not the adult) kind are best. Shop around for a brand that is ultra-absorbent, and modify each diaper with a simple snip to allow for a tail opening.

Diapers also help protect against urine scalds by drawing the moisture away from the skin. “Make sure the diaper is as dry as possible,” says Marino. As with a newborn baby, she uses a diaper-rash product such as Balmex or Desitin to create a barrier so the skin doesn’t get raw.

With long-coated dogs such as Collies and Huskies, Marino sometimes shaves the whole perineal area, especially in summer. “Because the coat is so thick, the dog can get maggots and you don’t even know it,” she says, noting that the fly larvae can hatch within 24 hours of being laid, and will immediately begin eating away at any necrotic tissue.

• Bedding. For incontinent or immobile dogs, Marino recommends doggie cots made out of PVC pipe and mesh fabric. Elevated off the ground, the beds are comfortable for the dog and easy to clean for the caretaker. She places a hospital-type blue “chuck pad” under the bed, or a tray of cat litter to make the area easy to clean.

Speaking of cleaning, consider devoting an area of the house for providing hospice. “It should be a place where if the animal is incontinent or vomits, it’s not on your $10,000 Persian rug,” Marino says. “It should be a place where the animal is comfortable, and so are you.”

• Supplies. Among the items that Marino recommends obtaining from your vet are fluids and disposable needles to do subcutaneous injections, which will be required in nearly every dog’s final days. Pedialyte, an oral electrolyte solution for children, is also good to have in the cupboard to combat dehydration.

Diarrhea is a common problem with terminally ill animals, and Marino always keeps a tincture of slippery elm on hand to deal with gastrointestinal upsets. For vomiting, she often turns to the homeopathic remedy Nux vomica.

Instead of a heating pad – a big no-no – Marino uses a warming disc that can be heated in a microwave. You can determine whether the disc is too warm, refrain from putting it near the dog until it’s at a safe temperature, and then feel confident that it will slowly cool (rather than heating up to a temperature that can burn, like heating pads are wont to do). Warming discs stay warm for 10 hours, and are especially good for animals with kidney disease.

Another must-have is a rectal thermometer. “Learn what temperature is normal for your dog,” Marino advises. “Typically, it’s 101 degrees, but it can range from 100 to 102 for some dogs.” And while a muzzle might sound like an odd item to keep handy, she notes that some dogs can nip during unpleasant procedures such as a change of wound dressing, or when they are frightened or out of sorts.

• As for nutritional supplements, Marino frequently gives her hospice dogs Seacure, a biologically hydrolyzed whitefish supplement that is easy for the digestive system to assimilate (and whose fishy odor tempts many dogs with delicate appetites into eating). She also uses colostrum to support the immune system and help ward off secondary infections, and Pet Tinic, an iron-rich vitamin and mineral supplement, to help boost oxygen-carrying red blood cells.

• Faith. While it sounds basic, caretakers need to believe in their ability to do their best for their animal. Marino remembers the day that Krauss’s partner Deb called, distraught. On one of the dog’s very good days, Deb had taken her hiking, but the next day, she was noticeably worse.

“She was feeling guilty, like ‘Maybe it was something I did,’” Marino recalls. “But the key in all this is to live life and savor it. It’s very important to focus on the days that we go hiking rather than the days when things don’t go so well. Those are the days you want to remember.”

Also With This Article
“Canine Hospice Options”
“Death at Home: Is Veterinary Euthanasia Better?”

-Denise Flaim is a staff writer and companion-animal columnist at Newsday, the daily newspaper on Long Island. She is also the author of The Holistic Dog Book: Canine Care for the 21st Century and Getting Lucky: How One Special Dog Found Love and a Second Chance at Angel’s Gate (Stewart, Tabori & Chang, $19). Denise shares her home with her husband, toddler triplets, and two naturally reared Rhodesian Ridgebacks.

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Is Cancer Prevention for Dogs Possible?

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[Updated January 28, 2019]

What could be better than curing your dog’s cancer? That’s easy! How about avoiding the illness in the first place?

No one has done any clinical trials or statistical studies that prove you can prevent cancer in at-risk dogs. “But common sense and clinical experience make a strong case for avoiding anything that exposes an animal to known carcinogens or weakens the immune system,” says Stacey Hershman, DVM, a holistic housecall veterinarian in Rockland County, New York.

dog at vet

Just like their human companions, dogs live longer, healthier lives when they eat the right foods, get enough exercise, breathe clean air, drink clean water, and stay away from harmful substances. They may also be helped by immune-boosting herbs, supplements, special foods, and a few things you might not have thought of. Here’s a review of recommendations from holistic veterinarians and other experts.

Good Genes

An important first step in selecting a puppy or adult dog is learning everything you can about the immediate family – parents, grandparents, siblings, aunts, uncles, cousins, etc. Some breeds are notoriously prone to cancer, and some lines within those breeds reinforce the trend. Look for good genes and good health when selecting puppies or adopting adult dogs.

Of course, rescued dogs seldom come with this documentation, and even the best-bred dog can develop cancer. But starting with good raw material can reduce the risk – and if you know that your dog may be prone to certain types of cancer, do what you can, starting today, to make that diagnosis less likely.

Spaying/Neutering

The statistics are convincing: female dogs have a significantly lower risk of developing mammary tumors if they are spayed before coming into season for the first or second time, and testicular cancer is obviously not a problem in neutered males.

But while early spaying reduces the risk of mammary cancer, it quadruples the risk of developing cardiac hemangiosarcomas (vascular tumors) compared to intact females. In addition, a study of 3,218 dogs neutered before one year of age showed that both males and females had a significantly increased chance of developing osteosarcoma (bone tumors) compared to intact males and females.

Understanding your dog’s inherited risks can help you make informed decisions about whether and when to schedule surgery.

Vaccinations

For Dr. Hershman and most holistic veterinarians, routine vaccinations top the list of things to avoid. “Vaccines really disrupt the immune system,” she says, “especially combination vaccines that are given annually.” Like many holistic veterinarians, she recommends a single-dose parvovirus vaccination at age 10 to 12 weeks, followed by a single-dose distemper vaccination four weeks later and a rabies vaccination after age six months.

“I check the effectiveness of these shots with blood titer tests,” she says. “If immunity is strong, there’s no need to revaccinate. If it’s weak, I repeat whatever the puppy needs for protection.”

Label directions warn veterinarians not to vaccinate a sick animal; Dr. Hershman includes injured or stressed animals in that caution. “Vaccinating a dog who’s being spayed, neutered, or treated for an injury is totally irresponsible,” she says. “You want the animal to be healthy, with a strong vital force, not in a weakened, vulnerable state, when you introduce substances designed to challenge the immune system.”

Responding to decades of research by immunologists, veterinary textbooks and colleges no longer recommend annual vaccinations for dogs, but most veterinary clinics continue to prescribe them. “They routinely prescribe antibiotics, steroids, and other symptom-suppressing drugs, too,” says Dr. Hershman, “and those take a toll on the immune system. Whenever you can use nutrition, homeopathy, acupuncture, medicinal herbs, or other natural therapies instead of symptom-suppressing drugs, you strengthen the dog’s immunity. A strong immune system is the best defense against cancer.”

The Right Diet

Advocates of home-prepared diets for dogs have long claimed that their animals are healthier than they would be on commercial pet food. Beth Taylor and Steve Brown, authors of See Spot Live Longer, agree. They blame dry and canned dog foods for a host of problems because they usually contain inferior-quality proteins, fats, and carbohydrates, a variety of toxins, highly processed grains, chemical preservatives, allergens, and other questionable ingredients.

Many veterinarians blame grain-based pet foods for diabetes, digestive problems, and other canine disorders. After all, the canine digestive tract evolved on a diet of prey animals, consisting mostly of meat and bones, not wheat and corn.

Every few years, aflatoxin, which grows on corn, rice, and other grains, contaminates pet foods and kills dogs (see “Yes, Dog Food Can Kill,” February 2006). In addition to causing liver damage, aflatoxin is a potent carcinogen, so even “safe” levels that don’t cause obvious disease outbreaks can contribute, over time, to cancer.

Another carcinogen found in grain-based foods is acrylamide, once believed to exist only in industrial waste. However, acrylamide has recently been found almost everywhere in the human diet. This tasteless, invisible by-product is formed when high-carbohydrate foods are fried or baked at high temperatures. French fries and potato chips contain the highest concentrations, but acrylamide occurs in breads and breakfast cereals as well.

The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) considers acrylamide so dangerous that it set the “safe level” for human consumption at almost zero, with the maximum safe level in drinking water set at 0.5 parts per billion. A small serving of French fries contains over 400 parts per billion. No one has tested pet foods, but any processed foods that contain carbohydrates, especially those extruded at high temperature like grain-based kibble or canned under high heat and pressure, pose a risk.

“Considering how ubiquitous these carcinogens are,” says San Francisco-area dog health researcher Mary Straus, “and considering that cancer cells thrive on carbohydrates, avoiding grains altogether may be one way to help lower the risk of cancer.”

In addition to reducing levels of carbohydrates and carcinogens, feeding a home-prepared diet of pasture-fed, organically produced ingredients (see “Upgrading to Pasture-Fed,” July 2003) insures that your dog will not ingest pesticide and drug residues. Food prepared at home from conventionally farmed ingredients may not be free of pesticide residues, but it is unlikely to contain chemical preservatives, artificial colors or flavors, or the by-products of high-heat processing.

In his book, Work Wonders: Feed Your Dog Raw Meaty Bones, Australian veterinarian Tom Lonsdale observes, “We need more information about the cancer epidemic in domestic dogs. However, basic nutritional and medical principles tell us that diet is the likely main factor. Without waiting for extra information, and because cancer often takes years to develop, it’s best to start puppies on a cancer-prevention diet early. From the whelping box to the grave, let ‘Prevention, not treatment’ be our motto.”

Dietary Supplements

Antioxidant supplements, which help protect the body from damage by free radicals, have many health benefits, including cancer protection. Best-selling antioxidant supplements include vitamins A, C, and E, beta carotene, lycopene, and the mineral selenium. Bear in mind that some alternative cancer treatments, such as artemisinin, are not compatible with antioxidants.

Food-source antioxidants, vitamins, and other nutrients derived from whole foods are recommended by many holistic veterinarians because they are recognized as food by the body and are more easily assimilated than synthetic vitamins grown in a laboratory. The words “whole food” or “food source” indicate natural rather than synthetic ingredients.

One of the simplest cancer-resisting supplements you can add to your dog’s food, according to Bruce Fife, ND, is coconut oil. Dr. Fife, the author of several books about coconut’s health benefits, recommends feeding dogs 1 teaspoon of coconut oil per 10 pounds of body weight per day in divided doses. That’s 1 tablespoon (3 teaspoons) for a 30-pound dog and 2 tablespoons for a 60-pound dog. (See “Crazy About Coconut Oil,” October 2005.)

“The medium-chain fatty acids in coconut oil help treat or prevent all kinds of illnesses,” he says, “and they have significant anti-tumor properties. Giving your dog coconut oil every day is inexpensive health insurance.”

Dried shredded coconut (the unsweetened kind) is an excellent source of fiber, another factor in cancer prevention. Try adding a teaspoon to a tablespoon of shredded coconut to your dog’s home-prepared food. If feeding dry food, add a little water or soak the shredded coconut first.

Vegetables are controversial ingredients because they’re hard for dogs to digest. But a simple lactofermentation process not only improves the digestibility and assimilation of vegetables, it increases their vitamin content and makes them a valuable source of beneficial bacteria. In fact, the treated vegetables are both a prebiotic (food that feeds beneficial bacteria) and probiotic (food that contains beneficial bacteria). In Europe, lactofermented vegetables are the key ingredient in a popular cancer treatment.

To make lactofermented vegetables (see “It’s All in How You Make It,” March 2001), simply grate, shred, or puree carrots and other vegetables, add 1½ teaspoons unrefined sea salt per quart (4 cups) of vegetables, add the contents of a probiotic supplement such as acidophilus, and press everything in a bowl or glass jar until juice covers the vegetables. (The task is made considerably easier with a Japanese salad press; see “Cancer Prevention Resources” for purchasing information.)

Close the jar tightly or, if using a bowl, cover vegetables with a plate weighted by a jar filled with water. Let stand at room tem-perature until the vegetables give off a vinegar-like fragrance; this will usually take two to three days, depending on their con-sistency and room temperature. Refrigerate. Use to replace vegetables in any home-prepared recipe, or add 1 tablespoon to ¼ cup lactofermented vegetables to each meal.

Environmental Factors

Take two individuals from the same litter of puppies of a breed or family that has a high cancer risk. Place one with a family of heavy smokers who live next to a busy highway, use lawn chemicals, drink fluoridated tap water, and have high-current power lines in the backyard. Place the other pup on a pristine organic farm. Feed both the same diet and let several years go by. You don’t have to be an oncologist to know which dog is more likely to develop cancer.

Second-hand smoke is a serious problem for pets, especially those who spend hours every day at the feet of their smoking companions. “I tell all my clients who smoke that they’re putting their dogs’ health at risk,” says Dr. Hershman. “I saw it happen in my own family, and it breaks my heart. Second-hand smoke is as dangerous to dogs as it is to infants.”

Busy highways, driveways, parking lots, and areas where trucks and cars idle are dangerous for dogs because of gas and diesel exhaust. A dog’s nose is much closer to the ground – and exhaust pipes – than the human nose, so dogs are more likely to inhale damaging particles.

Lawn treatments and agricultural chemicals are known to cause cancer in animals (see “Canine Cancer Crisis,” November 2005). Dogs pick up pesticides, herbicides, and other chemicals through their feet and, when they sniff the ground, through their noses. Keep your dog off the grass in chemically treated neighborhoods, and explore organic alternatives for your own lawn and garden.

Even household chemicals pose a threat to our canine companions. According to the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission, more than 150 chemicals found in the average home are linked to birth defects, cancer, and psychological abnormalities. If labels carry a “keep away from children and pets” warning, or if product labels suggest they should be used only in well-ventilated areas, look for alternatives.

Fluoride has gotten such good press over the decades that most Americans think it’s essential for healthy teeth. It’s even added to some canine toothpastes. But in many countries, fluoride is considered a hazardous industrial waste, and its use in water supplies is prohibited. In September 2005, eleven unions representing more than 7,000 scientists and researchers at the EPA called for a national moratorium on the fluoridation of America’s drinking water, citing cancer risks.

A December 2005 analysis of more than 22 million tap water quality tests, most of which were required under the federal Safe Drinking Water Act, found that water suppliers across the U.S. detected 260 contaminants in public tap water. Of the 141 unregulated contaminants detected in water supplies between 1998 and 2003, 52 are linked to cancer, 41 to reproductive toxicity, 36 to developmental toxicity, and 16 to immune system damage. Water contaminated with 83 agricultural pollutants, including pesticides and fertilizer ingredients, flows through the taps of over 200 million Americans in 41 states.

topical pesticides for dogs

Installing a water filter or using uncontaminated, unfluoridated bottled water sounds like a very good idea! So does avoiding fluoridated toothpaste.

Regarding sources of electromagnetic radiation, a study published in 1995 in the American Journal of Epidemiology compared dogs treated at a veterinary teaching hospital for histologically confirmed lymphoma. Electric wire codes and magnetic fields were measured at the homes of 93 diagnosed cases and 137 controls, and a correlation was found between magnetic fields emitted by power lines and electrical appliances and the incidence of lymphoma. Dogs living in homes with very high current codes had the highest risk, while dogs living in homes with buried or underground power lines had a lower risk.

Immunologist and veterinarian Richard Pitcairn, DVM, PhD, author of Dr. Pitcairn’s Complete Guide to Natural Health for Dogs & Cats, considers all sources of radiation (including repeated diagnostic X-rays) dangerous because their effects are cumulative in the body. He recommends that dogs not be allowed to rest near a color TV set. Fortunately, the new flat-screen TVs and computer monitors emit much lower levels of electromagnetic radiation than older cathode ray tube models. In general, the fewer electrical appliances in close proximity to pets, the better.

Topical Pesticides

Anyone who lives where fleas, ticks, or mosquitoes are a problem knows what a challenge they can be. Unfortunately, topical and systemic pest-control products contribute to a host of health problems, including increased cancer risks.

A well-balanced raw diet can help a dog repel parasites, but sometimes the attack is overwhelming.

“I definitely prefer natural alternatives to pesticide sprays or products like Frontline, which make the entire dog toxic to biting parasites,” says Dr. Hershman. “But alternatives don’t always work. One of my patients is a raw-fed Search and Rescue dog who often picked up more than 200 ticks on training weekends. He’s a German Shepherd Dog, so finding and removing them all was a time-consuming, stressful challenge. After his owner tried every natural repellent we could find, none of which solved the problem, he now applies K9 Advantix, a systemic pesticide that repels fleas, ticks, and mosquitoes, on a reduced dosage schedule only when needed.

“When it comes to cancer prevention,” she says, “the less often you use conventional pesticides, the better. A good diet and natural repellents are always worth trying first.”

Cancer Preventives

Several holistic cancer treatments, such as those described in “What Are the Alternatives?” (February 2006), can be used to help healthy dogs remain cancer-free. The thinking here is that cancer cells develop all the time, even in healthy bodies, but they don’t create problems until conditions encourage their growth. Preventive treatments disrupt cancer cells before they take up residence in vulnerable parts of the body.

Henry Lai, PhD, the University of Washington researcher who first tested artemisinin (an extract of Artemesia annua, or annual wormwood) on dogs with cancer, takes artemisinin as a preventive himself and has tested it on laboratory animals.

“It is hard to recommend a protocol for cancer prevention,” he says, “but, based on studies on rats, a good dose could probably be somewhere between 8 milligrams of artemisinin per kilogram of body weight per day at the high end and 10 mg/kg once per week at the low end. I take 100 mg per day for 10 days each month. Even though this approach hasn’t been tested yet on humans or canines, I think it makes sense.”

Following Dr. Lai’s example, a dog weighing 60 to 75 pounds could take 50 mg artemisinin for 10 days each month, and the amount could be increased or decreased as needed for larger and smaller dogs.

The antioxidant Protocel, also discussed in last month’s article, can be used in a similar way.

According to Illinois veterinarian Dan King, DVM, “This should be effective because Protocel works on early cancer cells as an antimetastatic. That is, it deals with individual cells and prevents them from spreading and growing. Because it works slowly, I would use Protocel on a preventive maintenance schedule of ¼ teaspoon twice per day for a dog weighing 50 to 75 pounds for three months on and six months off. Small dogs could take 1/8 teaspoon twice per day for the same length of time.”

Medicinal Herbs

Ask a dozen experts about their favorite herbs for cancer prevention and you’ll generate a list too long to publish here. But a few herbal products are so effective that they are recommended by almost everyone.

“Many mushrooms have anti-tumor and immune-stimulating activity,” says Carol Falck, VMD, of Pompano Beach, Florida. “They have been used medicinally for thousands of years in China and Japan, and they work very well for dogs.”

Dr. Falck often uses Myco-Immune by Thorne Research, which is a liquid extract of seven medicinal mushrooms, including cordyceps, reishi, shiitake, maitake, and turkey tail. “This combination stimulates the immune system in several ways, helping it resist the growth of cancer.”

She also recommends a green tea extract (G.T.-Ex by Thorne Research) because green tea enhances cellular immune function, increases natural killer cell activity, and may inhibit some cancer cell lines.

Another favorite supplement for dogs at risk of cancer is curcumin, says Dr. Falck. “Curcumin is the yellow pigment in turmeric, the spice that gives curry its distinctive color. Both turmeric and curcumin have been shown to inhibit tumor growth. I also like astragalus, an herb with strong immune-stimulating properties. I use several Chinese herbal formulas containing astragalus, depending on the patient, including Astragalus for Animals by Buck Mountain Botanicals.”

Garlic is well known and often used for its cancer-inhibiting properties. Small amounts of fresh minced garlic or aged garlic extract can be added to any dog’s dinner. Garlic is an ingredient in Herbal Compounds tablets created by Juliette de Bairacli Levy, whose Natural Rearing philosophy pioneered home-prepared diets and alternative medicine for animals.

“This formula is very antiseptic,” says Natural Rearing advocate Marina Zacharias, who imports the product from England. “It definitely helps the immune system.”

For patients at high risk, Zacharias likes a Chinese formula called Bioprin for its antiviral, antibacterial, antifungal, and anti-tumor properties. “I also use a probiotic called Florenz and, over the animals’ life span, a form of liver support given to match their needs, such as homeopathic Liver Terrain.”

Zacharias says she has seen good results from prevention efforts taken to protect individual dogs in high-risk families. “Of course, there is no empirical evidence to say that these measures prevented cancer, but when we see a good-quality, healthy life, it’s evidence that the efforts are warranted. We all have to die from something, but when we see cancer in a naturally raised dog, it’s usually when the dog is older, at the end of its natural lifespan.”

Closely related to herbal medicine is aromatherapy. San Diego holistic veterinarian Stephen Blake recommends massaging the paw pads of at-risk dogs once or twice per day with a drop of blended frankincense, sandalwood, and Douglas fir essential oils. For best results, use organic or wildcrafted oils from reputable distributors as described in “Essential Information” (January 2005). “These essential oils are great for detoxification and for supporting the immune system,” he says.

Exercise

Although few of us appreciate the important role it plays, the lymph system is a key factor in cancer prevention. Lymph is a clear fluid, similar to blood but lacking red blood cells. It contains the immune system’s lymphocytes (T-cells and B-cells) and circulates through channels that carry waste to the lymph nodes, filtering bacteria and other toxins.

The more lymph circulation is impaired, the less efficiently the body removes toxins and the more favorable conditions are for the growth of cancer. Lymph circulation improves with active exercise and deep, diaphragmatic breathing. Gentle to vigorous brushing that moves from the feet to the heart is a simple addition to daily grooming that also stimulates lymph circulation.

“Exercise is so important,” says Dr. Falck. “Exercise stimulates the immune system and releases endorphins, and an added benefit of consistent exercise is increasing gastrointestinal motility, which helps normalize stools and eliminate toxins from the body. It also facilitates weight management, which is important because obesity is a risk factor for some types of cancer.”

Malillumination

You probably haven’t thought about light as a cancer preventive, but it may well be. Not just any light, though. Unfiltered natural light, Mother Nature’s full-spectrum light, activates the hypothalamus and keeps the entire endocrine system balanced.

When photobiologist and time-lapse photography pioneer John Ott began to photograph living plants, he discovered that depriving them of unfiltered natural light interfered with their normal growth and reproduction.

He soon learned that the health of fish, birds, reptiles, and other animals (including humans) is adversely affected by insufficient light and by the wrong kind of light, especially fluorescent light. Ott coined the term “malillumination” to describe the phenomenon, which is now known to suppress immune function and contribute to skin damage, cancer, and other problems.

Light enters the eyes not only to facilitate vision but also to activate the hypothalamus. This region of the brain, in turn, controls the nervous and endocrine systems, which regulate functions throughout the body.

Exposure to natural light, preferably for several hours daily, is necessary for your dog’s health. A shady screened porch, the shelter of a tree, even an open window or doorway can give the dog’s body what it needs. Some plastics allow the transmission of full-spectrum natural light, but glass windows, windshields, and sunglasses (which we hope your dog doesn’t wear) do not.

Emotional Well-Being

For many healthcare experts, emotional well-being is as important to cancer prevention as diet and exercise.

“I believe strongly that emotions are linked to general health via the immune system,” says Dr. Falck. “We can support our pets emotionally by encouraging social interaction with people and other animals, by providing a safe and loving environment with balanced opportunities for play and rest, and by minimizing stress.”

Dr. Blake strongly stresses the importance of positive thinking.

“Never talk to an animal as though he or she is a tumor instead of a spiritual being,” he says. “Negative thoughts generate negative energy, which feeds the disease and weakens the patient’s vital force. No matter how serious the risk of cancer, it’s important to picture your dog as well and happy, not sick, and to engage him or her in meaningful conversation and meaningful activities every day.”

A long-time contributor to WDJ and author of The Encyclopedia of Natural Pet Care, Natural Remedies for Dogs & Cats, and other books, CJ Puotinen lives in New York with her husband, a Lab, and a tabby cat.

Training a Dependable “Stay”

I remember a day several years ago when I put my dogs’ “stay” to the test.

We were on our usual morning neighborhood walk. All of a sudden, three children on bikes sped past us on the sidewalk, racing each other on the way to school. The faster and older children raced around the corner, leaving the younger bicyclist in their dust. Just then, the young biker skidded to the side and landed hard on the concrete about 20 feet in front of me.

The boy started crying. I quickly told my dogs to down and stay, and raced up to the child to see if he needed help.

I was not sure what my dogs would actually do. Would they stay as we had trained and practiced? Would they follow me down the street to see the crying boy? Would they venture into the neighbor’s yard after a rogue cat? All seemed very possible – after all, they were rowdy young dogs and the stay behavior, while practiced regularly, had never been really put to the test.

But they did stay for several minutes, just as we’d practiced over and over. I have to admit that I was a little more than surprised and impressed! (By the way, the boy was fine. His hands and knees were slightly skinned, but after a few short minutes, he hopped back on his bike and raced off to school.)

That day taught me what an important foundation behavior stay can be. Obviously, in a minor emergency, a stay is extremely helpful. But a solid stay can make a difference in other facets of life, too:

• Stay is a very useful behavior in everyday situations, like when you’re walking and need to tie your shoe, or if at a pet supply store and need to sign a charge slip.

• Stay helps develop your dog’s self-control and helps a dog settle during exciting times such as when you are fixing dinner or when you are gathering the leash and treats for a walk.

• Stay can be useful at the vet and during grooming.

• It is an essential behavior for dog sports such as competitive obedience and agility.

• It can be a life-saving behavior. For example, a good stay can prevent a dog from racing into the street.

The many faces of stay
What exactly is a stay? It means different things to different people. In fact, there are many “versions” of stay. You’ll need to identify the different ways you will use stay and train for each.

Stay can apply to different positions or places. For example, you may have a sit/stay, a down/stay, and a stand/stay. You may also teach your dog to go to his bed and stay, or to stay in a certain spot while you prepare his food.

Stay can also apply to a mind-set. Many people use stay to mean, “Relax and hang out.” Others such as agility competitors may use stay to mean, “Don’t move, but be alert for the next cue.”

Here are some common stay variations:

• The basic stay: I teach the basic stay as the dog remaining in position and place (sit, down, or stand) until released. For example, when asked to sit or sit/stay, the dog will put his bottom on the ground and remain there until I say “Okay.”

• Wait: While stay is a behavior that asks the dog not to move out of position or place, wait is a more casual version that can mean “hang out patiently for a moment or two, but stay alert because your turn is coming.” I use wait at doorways, for example.

• Go relax or go to bed: This type of stay is less about position and more about place and mind-set. Teach the dog to go to his or her bed or other place and hang out there. This can be taught with or without a distinct release.

• Dog sport stay: For those who play agility or obedience, a ritualized stay behavior is part of both sports. Using a specific cue, signal, or body language to initiate the stay and a specific and unique release cue can aid in a reliable dog sport stay.

Getting a reliable stay can be a challenge, and one of the reasons is that the variations are often taught in a blur – the dog is sometimes asked to stay in one position, sometimes asked to stay in one place, sometimes allowed to leave the position or place without the release, sometimes required to stay in the position until the release, sometimes released to a verbal cue, sometimes released to a hand signal . . . no wonder the dog becomes confused!

Before you start training the stay, develop a distinct picture in your mind of the behavior you are training. For the rest of this article, I’ll use “stay” for the basic stay described above: When you are asking your dog to put her body in a certain position (sit, down, stand) and stay in place until she is formally released.

The controversial cue
When you ask a dog for a stationary behavior (like sit, down, or stand) the expectation is that the dog will stay in that position until released. Essentially, the sit cue means, “Sit and stay there.” So do you need or use a separate stay cue?

While it may seem unnecessary, having a distinct cue for stay can be advantageous in certain situations:

• If you have trained different types of stays, using a distinct cue for each can help your dog understand what is expected.

• Using a stay cue or word can act as a back up or reassurance for your dog in difficult or emergency situations. For example it can mean, “Keep on sitting. You are doing great.”

• If you use the word “stay” with several positions (sit, down, and stand, for example), you may be able to easily transfer it to new or unique positions. For example, if the vet needs your dog to lie on his side, you can gently turn him to the side and then give the “stay” cue to help him know that you would like him to remain in that position while the vet pokes and prods.

• If you are not as consistent as you should be about using a distinct release from a sit or down, having a stay cue can be helpful clarification for you and your dog.

Consider getting the best of both worlds. Teach your dog that sit, down, and stand mean hang out in that position until you are released, and later, once the dog knows the behavior, you can add in a secondary cue or hand signal for stay.

Training the stay
When you first teach your dog to sit, you “mark” her performance of the desired behavior with a click! of a clicker or word such as “Yes!” and give her a treat the moment her bottom hits the ground. Most dogs will quickly place their bottoms on the ground, and then pop up the minute they hear the click! Here’s how you move from a brief sit (or down or stand) to a solid sit/stay:

1. When you ask your dog to sit, gradually extend the time between the dog placing his bottom on the ground and when you click or “yes.” For example, the dog sits and you count a half a second, then click or “yes” and treat; the dog sits, you count one second, then click and treat; the dog sits, you count two seconds then click and treat. Work up to 10 seconds.

2. At this point, alternate longer and shorter times between treating. For example click or “yes” and treat for 10 seconds, 3 seconds, 7 seconds, etc.

3. If your dog pops up, don’t stress! In the process of learning to stay in position, your dog may experiment a little. He may pop out of the position, come up to you, and wonder if it’s treat time. With most beginning behaviors, like sit, down, or come, the dog gets the reward when he is near you or when he comes up to you. So it is understandable that he might give that a try while he is learning to stay.

What can you do? Simply ask your dog to try again and make your criteria easier! This is critical. If your dog breaks the stay twice in a row, or if you are getting fewer than four out of five correct responses, make it easier and build up slower.

In addition, be patient and don’t use verbal scolding or “corrections.” Correcting a dog for leaving a stay may backfire, making him insecure and less likely to succeed the next time.

When he can successfully hold the sit at least four out of five times in a training session, then you can make it a little harder by extending the time you ask him to stay. Over the course of several training sessions, gradually increase the time until your dog can comfortably hold the sit for 30 seconds.

4. Don’t worry if your dog pops up after the click. If you would like your dog to stay until you give a distinct release, try this:

Click and immediately place the treat right under the dog’s nose so that he doesn’t need to get up to eat the treat. This placement of the treat will reinforce the position. In fact, if you follow the click with several treats in a row, your dog will learn to stay in position to see what is coming next! Follow the click and treat with a distinct release such as “Okay!”

5. At this point, you can also add in a hand signal or verbal cue for “stay.” Ask your dog to sit, say “stay” or give your hand signal, and continue practicing as noted above.

The three D’s
When training the stay, it can be very helpful to work on the three D’s: duration, distance, and distractions – separately. By consciously building the three D’s into your training, your dog’s stay will become increasingly reliable.

• Duration is simply how long your dog is doing the behavior. You’ve already been working on teaching your dog to hold the sit/stay for 30-second durations. Think about how long you would ideally like your dog to hold a stay. For a sit position, I suggest one to three minutes; for a down position, 2 to 5 minutes.

Note: Some people like to train their dog’s to hold a down for up to 30 minutes. I personally believe this is too long to comfortably be in one position without moving. If you would like your dog to be able to stay for 15, 20, or 30 minutes, consider teaching him to “go to bed,” where he can stay in a place for a longer period of time, but move his body position for comfort!

• Distance refers to both how far away you are from your dog when he is staying. Along with training your dog to stay while you move away, teach your dog to understand that stay means to stay even when your body is in a different position, such as if you turn away, kneel down, or step to the side.

When your dog can hold the sit for 10 to 30 seconds, start varying your distance from him and body position. Take a half step back, turn your body to the side, step slightly to your dog’s side, move your head, lower your body, etc. As your dog becomes more confident, you can gradually increase the distance. At advanced levels, you can teach your dog to stay while you step out of sight.

In the early stages of training, work on distance and duration separately. For example, if you are training for duration, work on increasing the time but keep the distance and your body position within your dog’s comfort level. If you are working on distance, move away from your dog, but only stay at a distance for a few seconds before returning. As your dog’s skill increases, you can combine the two with ease.

Note: To prevent your dog’s anticipation of the release (and his consequently breaking the stay and running to you for a treat) go back to your dog and click and treat while he is still in the position.

• Distraction training is equally important. Once your dog has the basics of sit/stay, begin training in different locations. Each location has different distractions, so you will need to lower your criteria.

For example, if your dog can sit/stay for two minutes in your living room, expect to begin with just three or four seconds in a new location. Start with easy locations, such as your kitchen, living room, and backyard. As your dog’s ability to succeed improves, practice on your daily walks and other places you visit frequently.

At first, add only distractions you can control, so you can stop the distraction if it is setting your dog up to fail. Start small, by waving your arms or jumping up and down, for example, and build slowly.

Eventually, you may need to practice with the things that tend to distract your dog most, such as people walking near your dog, other dogs moving by, or a ball bouncing across the ground. Again, for the best chance of success, set up situations in which you can control the distractions until your dog consistently succeeds at that level. With enough practice, your dog will learn to stay even in the face of the toughest “real-world” distractions.

The secrets of success
The secrets to a successful and reliable stay: Be realistic! Be consistent!

Work with your dog’s stay training at a level he or she can realistically handle. Pushing your dog past his abilities (so that he breaks the stay) is the fastest way for the behavior to fall apart. The more this happens, the harder it will be for your dog to have the confidence needed for a reliable stay. So if your dog breaks his stay, make it easier and build on successes!

Be very consistent when you are training the stay. If your dog is having trouble with the training, make it easier and move forward more gradually. For obvious reasons, calm, confident dogs may progress more quickly. But with patience and consistency, even high energy and insecure dogs can develop a rock-solid stay!

Heartworm: Don’t Take it Lightly

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By Mary Straus

People have learned of the benefits of a natural diet and limited vaccinations, and have seen the health improvements in their dogs from these changes. Now, many want to know if they can discontinue administering heartworm preventatives to their dogs, or whether those can be replaced by natural options.

Heartworm preventatives can cause serious side effects in some dogs, including depression, lethargy, vomiting, anorexia, diarrhea, dilation of the pupil, loss of balance, staggering, convulsions, and hy-persalivation. Some dogs are especially prone to side effects from ivermectin, the main ingredient in one of the most widely used heartworm preventatives. Also, some of the preventatives are combined with drugs aimed at killing other pests such as fleas, mites, roundworms, and hookworms.

On the other hand, heartworm can be a devastating disease. Dogs with moderate or severe infestations display a chronic cough and can’t engage in much activity, as worms choke their heart and major blood vessels, reducing their blood (and thus oxygen) supply. The disease often leaves its victims incapacitated, incapable of doing much more than a slow walk without gasping for air, and kills many dogs. Even the treatment for heartworm disease can be deadly, regardless of which method is used, so it is important to understand the risks that you take if you choose not to give your dog heartworm preventative.

In fact, most (certainly not all) holistic veterinarians consider the use of pharmaceutical preventatives to be less harmful than a heartworm infection.

Some argue, but…
As the co-moderator of an e-mail list on dog health and nutrition, I frequently see people allege that as long as you have a healthy dog, feed a raw diet, and do not over-vaccinate, your dog will not get heartworms. If only this were true! These measures may help to some degree, but they are not foolproof. The only way to know for sure that your dog is protected is to give heartworm preventatives.

Christie Keith, who lives in an area of Northern California where heartworm is relatively uncommon and has raised Scottish Deerhounds naturally for over 19 years, learned this the worst way.

“I went 16 years not using any form of allopathic preventative on my dogs. At the end of that 16-year period, on routine testing, I found that two of my dogs were heartworm-positive,” says Keith. “One of the positive dogs was Raven, a Deerhound I bought from another breeder. She came to me at 17 weeks with bad ear infections and severe allergies, and no one could argue that Raven was healthy or had a normal immune system.

“In contrast, my dog Bran was a third-generation, naturally reared dog of my own breeding. He was unvaccinated other than minimally for rabies. He was raw-fed. His mother and her mother were raw-fed and unvaccinated other than minimally for rabies. He was, by any definition available, extremely healthy and robust. He had never been sick a day in his life.”

Christie successfully treated both her dogs, though Raven almost died of a pulmonary embolism during treatment. Bran became heartworm-free after months of using the “slow kill” method of heartworm treatment, with no sign of any adverse effects. Unfortunately, Bran died of acute renal failure not long after that. Necropsy results were inconclusive, showing that Bran had glomerulonephritis, but not why.

In her research to try to find the cause of her dog’s death, Christie discovered that glomerulonephritis is a potential side effect of heartworm infection. Although she and her vets eventually came to the conclusion that Bran’s renal failure was caused by Lyme nephritis rather than heartworm disease, it was disturbing to realize that heartworms can affect more than the heart and lungs.

“I have no intention of ever living through what I lived through with Raven and Bran. I can’t keep silent when I see people starting to believe that healthy animals don’t get heartworm and that we can blithely forgo using preventatives if we don’t overvaccinate and feed raw. It’s just not so. And it’s not realistic to rely on the health and natural disease resistance of our dogs to protect them from a threat that they are exposed to frequently, as is the case in heartworm-endemic areas.

“No creature is in a static state of health 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. If our dogs are frequently exposed to an infectious parasite, eventually they may well succumb to it, no matter how healthy they are normally.”

“Alternative” preventatives?
Some holistic practitioners recommend various herbal or homeopathic preparations for heartworm prevention, and anecdotal evidence from some dog owners can be found on many discussion lists devoted to natural dog care. However, consumers should be aware that none of these alternatives have been studied for safety or efficacy, nor are there any studies indicating that they are effective at protecting against heartworm infection. In addition, some herbal dewormers, such as wormwood and black walnut, are potentially toxic when used at dosage levels needed to control intestinal parasites.

Some homeopathic practitioners advocate the use of homeopathic nosodes for heartworm prevention. Again, there are no studies indicating that they are effective. In his book, Homeopathic Care for Cats and Dogs, Don Hamilton, DVM, says, “I do know of some cases where the nosode did not protect, however. I believe it does offer some protection, though it may be incomplete. … If you decide to try the nosode, you must understand that its effectiveness is currently unknown.”

What is known, is that conventional heartworm preventatives are the best form of protection currently available. Fortunately for those of us who worry about the side effects of using the conventional drug preventatives, there are numerous ways you can minimize their use and still protect your dog. I’ll discuss these methods after introducing the most common preventatives.

Conventional preventatives
The two most common (and generally considered safe) heartworm preventative ingredients used today are ivermectin (used in Heartgard by Merial, and other products) and milbemycin oxime (used in Interceptor by Novartis).

There is also an older, daily heartworm preventative available, diethylcarbamazine or DEC. For many years, this drug was available from Pfizer as “Filaribits.” Though Filaribits has been discontinued, you can still find generic versions of DEC.

DEC is very safe in terms of side effects, but can be life-threatening if given to a heartworm-infected dog with circulating microfilariae, due to the risk of a rapid die-off of the microfilariae and resulting anaphylactic reaction. Also, missing just one or two days of medication can allow your dog to become infected. If you use DEC, it is essential that you test for heartworms before starting this drug, and every six months while using it. (Avoid Filaribits Plus, which has oxybendazole added to control intestinal parasites and has been known to cause liver damage.)

There are other heartworm products that include drugs for other purposes. Heart-gard Plus adds pyrantel to control intestinal parasites, including roundworms and hookworms. Adult dogs rarely have problems with roundworms, but if your yard has been infested with hookworms, this product might be good to use until the hookworms have been eliminated.

Sentinel is a combination of the products Interceptor and Program (lufenuron). Lufenuron is a medication that acts to prevent fleas from reproducing; it’s not a pesticide and does not kill fleas or keep them from biting your dog. This may be helpful for a short time if you have a flea infestation, and employ several nontoxic methods to get the flea problem under control, such as diatomaceous earth to treat the house and nematodes to treat the yard.

I’m less enthusiastic about selamectin (found in Revolution by Pfizer), a more recent entry to the market. Selamectin is a topical product that is also indicated for fleas, one kind of tick, ear mites, and the mites that cause sarcoptic mange. While this may well be great if your dog had mange, fleas, ticks, and ear mites, I strongly prefer drugs with a minimal and targeted action over ones with broad-spectrum activity.

The injectable product moxidectin (ProHeart 6 by Fort Dodge) has been withdrawn from the U.S. market due to numerous reports of adverse effects, including death. I do not recommend the use of injectable heartworm preventatives at all, as there is no way to remove them from your dog’s system if there is a bad reaction, and the time release drug will continue to affect your dog for months.

Temperature and timing
So, how can you reduce your dog’s exposure to conventional heartworm preventative drugs, without decreasing his protection from the nasty parasite?

First, it is not necessary to give heartworm preventatives year-round in most parts of the country. Heartworm development in the mosquito is dependent upon environmental temperatures. Heartworm larvae cannot develop to the stage needed to infect dogs until temperatures have been over 57 degrees Fahrenheit (14 degrees Centigrade), day and night, for at least one to two weeks. The amount of time it takes will vary depending on how warm it is; the warmer the temperatures, the faster the heartworm larvae develop.

If temperatures drop below that point at any time during the cycle, development may be prevented, but I wouldn’t rely on this. Temperatures can vary according to where the mosquito lives, and may be warmer under the eaves of houses or in other protected areas than the general ambient temperature.

Heartworm preventatives work by killing heartworm larvae that have already infected the dog, but before they can mature into adult worms that cause damage. When you give your dog heartworm preventative, you are killing any larvae that have infected your dog within the last one to two months. Any larvae that have been in your dog longer than 60 days are more likely to survive the treatment and go on to mature into adult worms.

Also, your dog may become infected the day after you give heartworm preventative; the drugs do not provide any future protection at all.

If your goal is to provide full protection for your dog with minimal drug administration, you’ll have to monitor the temperatures in your area. Mosquitoes may be capable of transmitting heartworm larvae to your dog around two weeks after your local temperature has stayed above 57 degrees Fahrenheit day and night.

Give the season’s first dose of preventative four to six weeks after that to destroy any larvae that infected your dog during that time. Thus, the first dose should be given six to eight weeks after daytime and nighttime temperatures first exceed 57°F. Continue to give the preventative every four to six weeks, with the last dose given after temperatures drop below that level on a regular basis.

For some parts of the country, this can mean giving preventatives only between July and October, while in others, where temperatures remain mild all year, they may have to be given year-round.

If you do not give your dog heartworm preventatives (because the area you live in is very low risk or because the temperatures are not right for heartworms to develop), and then take your dog to an area where heartworm is a problem, you must treat him with heartworm preventative upon your return to protect him.

Dosage amounts
With at least one drug, you can give your dog less than the recommended dosage of preventative, without compromising safety.

Milbemycin oxime, the active ingredient in Interceptor, has been approved by the FDA at one-fifth the regular dosage to kill heartworms only, without controlling intestinal parasites, including roundworms, whipworms, and hookworms. Novartis has a product, “SafeHeart,” with this lowered dosage of milbemycin, but has not yet marketed it.

The actual recommended dosage of milbemycin oxime for heartworm prevention only is 0.05 mg per pound of body weight (0.1 mg per kg). Contrast this with the recommended dosage of Interceptor for control of heartworm and intestinal parasites: 0.23 mg milbemycin oxime per pound (0.5 mg/kg) of body weight. Heartworm can be prevented at a much lower dose than that needed to control intestinal parasites.

SafeHeart contains 2.3 mg of milbe-mycin oxime for dogs from 2 to 50 pounds, and 5.75 mg for dogs 50 to 125 pounds. Interceptor contains 2.3 mg for dogs up to 10 pounds, and 5.75 mg for dogs 11 to 25 pounds. So if your dog weighs more than 50 pounds, you can give the Interceptor for dogs 11 to 25 pounds; otherwise you can use the one for dogs up to 10 pounds.

Frequency of preventatives
It may not be necessary to give heartworm preventatives every month. The monthly dosage schedule was devised to make it easy for people to remember when to administer the drugs, and to ensure that dogs would still be protected if a dose were somehow not swallowed or later vomited before being absorbed.

The FDA approvals cite studies showing that Heartgard, Interceptor, and Revolution provide protection beyond 30 days. If you are very good about remembering to give medications, and you can watch your dog after administering the pill to be sure that it is not spit out or later vomited, it may be safe to use heartworm preventatives less frequently than every 30 days. Dosing your dog every 45 days is a conservative way to safely stretch your dog’s dosage schedule.

The drug manufacturers’ pre-approval tests indicate that even longer dosing sched-ules may convey protection from heartworm – but I wouldn’t stake my dogs’ well-being on dosage schedules extending beyond a somewhat arbitrary 45 days.

The original FDA approval for Heartgard states, “The target dose of 6 mcg per kilogram of bodyweight was selected from titration study 10855 as the lowest dose providing 100 percent protection when the dosing interval was extended to 60 days to simulate a missed-dose circumstance.”

The original FDA approval for Interceptor states, “Complete (100 percent) protection was achieved in dogs treated at 30 days post-infection, with 95 percent protection at 60 and 90 days.” This does not apply to SafeHeart, which was tested only at a 30-day dosing interval.

The original FDA approval for Revolution states, “Selamectin applied topically as a single dose of 3 or 6 mg/kg was 100 percent effective in preventing the maturation of heartworms in dogs following inoculation with infective D. immitis larvae 30 or 45 days prior to treatment, and 6 mg/kg [the recommended dosage amount] was 100 percent effective in preventing maturation of heartworms following inoculation of infective larvae 60 days prior to treatment.”

Splitting pills
The issue of splitting heartworm pills comes up frequently. I have spoken to representatives from Merial (maker of Heartgard) and Novartis (maker of Interceptor). Both said that their active ingredients are mixed into their products before the pills are formed, and therefore should be evenly distributed (though they cannot guarantee this). However, both manufacturers advise against pill splitting.

Splitting pills is inexact and may result in the dog getting less or more of the medication. If you do decide to split the pills, use a pill splitter (available at any drug store) and do not try to give the minimum dosage, as you cannot be certain that your dog will get enough of the medication.

No guarantees
It is important to realize that, if you do decide to modify the way these medications are given – by splitting pills, giving pills less often than monthly, or using reduced dosages – the guarantees provided by the manufacturers will be invalidated. Under normal usage, if your dog develops a heartworm infection while on one of these heartworm preventatives, the company will pay for treatment, but this is not true if you are using the drugs other than as directed on the label.

It is important to understand the risk that heartworm infection poses to your dog. Rather than relying on unproven alternative methods of heartworm prevention, or the unreliable method of depending on your dog’s health to keep him from getting infected, all of the methods discussed above will offer you ways of safely reducing your usage of conventional heartworm preventatives, while still giving your dog complete protection from heartworm infection.

Next month, we’ll discuss treatment – what you can do if your dog’s heartworm test comes back positive.

-Mary Straus does research on canine health and nutrition topics as an avocation. She is the owner of the DogAware.com web site. She lives in the San Francisco Bay Area with her dog Piglet.

Fun Dog Training Techniques Using Shaping!

Shaping, or as it’s formally known, “shaping by successive approximations,” simply means breaking down a behavior into tiny increments, and reinforcing the dog at each incremental step until you’ve achieved the full behavior. Some trainers believe that shaping is the ultimate approach to operant training, and that any steps that stray off the pure shaping path are detrimental to ultimate results. Others incorporate shaping as I do – as a valuable part of a multi-faceted training program.

The Science Behind Behavior Shaping

The shaping process works because behavior is variable. In any series of repetitions of a behavior, your dog will give you variations in the manner that the behavior is performed – faster/slower, bigger/smaller, higher/lower, harder/softer, etc. If you wanted to shape your dog for a perfect obedience competition sit – straight, fast, and in proper heel position — you’d break the behavior known as “Sit” into those three components and work on them one at a time, capitalizing on the variability of your dog’s behavior for each one.

Perhaps you choose to start with speed. Your dog’s average sit time might be three seconds. Your goal is a one-second sit. In any given number of repetitions of “Sit,” some will be faster than three seconds, some will be slower, and some will be right on the three-second mark.

If you were to be scientific about your shaping program, you’d time the sits with a stopwatch, only click and treat (mark and reward) those that were three seconds or faster, and keep a written journal of your progress.

If you are less rigorous, you’d guesstimate the times and strive to click the faster sits. Over time, your dog’s average elapsed sit speed time would decrease, perhaps to two seconds, as he realized that only faster sits get clicked, and deliberately tried to sit faster to make you click more often.

Now you raise the bar – only sits that are two seconds or faster get clicked. By breaking your goal of fast sits into smaller increments of time, you gradually shape your dog to do that lightning-fast one-second show-ring sit that you covet.

Shaping is not just for the show ring. It has a number of important applications and benefits for all kinds of training, including:

• Accomplishing a behavior that your dog finds physically difficult or confusing, such as a teaching a Greyhound to sit.

• Encouraging your dog to perform a behavior that he finds mentally difficult or confusing, such as teaching a crate-wary dog to enter his artificial doggie den.

• Fine-tuning a behavior your dog can already do, such as teaching fast, straight, close sits.

• Helping your dog learn how to offer behaviors, try new things, and think creatively in order to solve problems, through shaping games such as 101 Things to Do With a Box (below).

Shaping Techniques

There are several ways to shape a behavior. You can use “lure/prompt shaping” as a sort of hybrid technique: you’re still showing the dog what you want him to do by luring with a treat, or prompting with a target or other body language, and reinforcing increments of progress to the final behavior.

Shaping “purists” tend to scoff at lure/prompt shaping, but it can be very effective at getting behaviors more quickly, although slower at teaching dogs to think creatively and offer behaviors freely. Dogs in basic good manners classes are often taught the “Down” with lure-shaping, by luring the dog’s nose toward the floor with a treat, clicking and rewarding as the dog makes any progress toward the floor with his nose or other body parts.

You can use “basic shaping,” where you have a goal behavior in mind and, without any prompting, reinforce small increments that the dog offers, such as described above for a faster sit. And you can “free shape” – by doing training exercises without any preconceived notion of where you want the behavior to go. Free shaping is the most difficult concept for novice trainers, who are often legitimately perplexed by the idea of training without knowing what behavior you’re trying to train.

Lure/Prompt Shaping

Greyhounds are notoriously difficult to teach to sit. Theories abound as to why this is so; one theory has to do with the Greyhound’s unique anatomy – a body shape that makes sitting an uncomfortable position. Whatever the reason, it does seem that while most dogs offer sits easily, these long, lean, muscular dogs are somewhat reluctant to do it.

To lure-shape a sit in a reluctant sitter, hold a treat at the tip of your dog’s nose and lift it up slightly. If he lifts his nose to follow the tidbit, click and treat. Repeat this step, lifting the treat slightly higher and a little bit back over the head.

When each step seems easy for the dog, progress a little farther, continuing to move the treat back over the head. At the same time, watch for a bend in the hind legs. Be sure to click the slightest bend in the hocks, and when you start getting a consistent bend in the hocks, even a small one, keep luring, but only click the leg bend, not the head lifts. Reinforce gradually deeper bends in the legs until the dog is sitting.

Why not just push the dog into a sit, or “tuck” him into a sit by pressing in gently above the hocks? Certainly, some trainers do, and teach the sit successfully in this manner. However, some dogs are reluctant to sit due to back or joint pain, and need to learn to find a way to move into a sit that doesn’t hurt; your push may cause excruciating pain.

shaping your dog
“Lure/prompt” shaping can be used to quickly get a new behavior; however, it doesn’t require the dog to figure out for herself what exactly it is that you want.

Other dogs resent being physically manipulated. That may or may not be the reason I had a recent client whose Scottish Terrier caused serious injuries to his prior trainer when she tried to push him into a sit. He resisted her first two push-sit attempts, and on the third try went up her arm with his teeth.

But other dogs may have other reasons for failing to catch on quickly. A case in point is a shelter dog I saw in my Intern Academy last summer – a beautiful English Pointer who had been purchased for hunting trial work but disqualified from competition due to a minor congenital rib deformity. At age four, he had never been asked to sit, and just didn’t seem to understand what we were asking of him.

In fact, he was the classic example of a shut-down dog – unwilling to offer any behavior at all. It took four days of the six-day academy, but on Thursday when his trainer finally got him to sit, the whole class applauded wildly. Best of all, the dog got it! His eyes lit up, and he proudly offered sit after sit after sit. In the remaining two days of the course he and his trainer caught up on all the lessons that had been on hold while they worked on the sit, and both graduated with flying colors and big smiles.

Basic Shaping

Some trainers profess to teach their entire entry-level classes using basic shaping only. I’ll admit I’m not that brave, but we do introduce the concept of basic shaping with our “Go to Your Place” exercise. I explain to my class that shaping is a Zen exercise – it takes patience and close observation, and that we’ll be splitting behavior rather than lumping. Lumping means to reinforce large chunks of behavior – capturing a sit, for example. In contrast, splitting means to look for the tiniest piece of movement, click and reinforce that, and build toward the final behavior. Splitting is the essence of shaping.

To shape a “Go to Your Place” behavior, set out a carpet square, dog bed, or blanket to designate “Place.” You can actually do this without a physical object to mark the place, but it’s easier for canines and humans to succeed with a visual marker – and then you can generalize the behavior easily by moving the marker to another spot.

Now stand back several feet from the carpet square and watch your dog very closely. You’re going to click and treat the tiniest motion toward “Place” – one step, a turn of the head, a flick of the ear … it doesn’t even have to be directly toward the spot – “in the general direction” will do.

If you’ve already reinforced your dog consistently for offered behaviors, he’ll probably catch on quickly. As he starts repeatedly making deliberate movements toward the rug to get clicked, you’ll hold out slightly longer to build more behavior. Just slightly! You want him to get a little frustrated and try harder (harder = bigger behavior), but if you hold out too long he may give up and quit offering behavior altogether.

As he gets closer to the mat you can move forward with him in order to keep delivering treats – but not ahead of him – that would be luring or prompting!

When he’s reached the mat, reset. Move yourself and your dog several feet back and start again. The goal is to shape him to go to the mat, not just to be on the mat. When he offers to go to the mat easily, start shaping him to lie down on it. The value of this exercise is to be able to park your dog there for a while. When he’s consistently offering to go lie down on his mat, you can add the verbal “Go to Your Place!” cue.

If your dog doesn’t offer behaviors easily, it may take longer to shape the Place behavior. Be patient, and remember to split – look for the tiniest of movement to reinforce. If he wants only to gaze adoringly into your eyes, look at the rug instead of him. If he just lies down at your feet for a snooze, invite him back to his feet, reposition him, and look for movement to reinforce as he repositions. The more you can find to reinforce, the less likely he is to lie down for another nap.

Dedicated shapers may write out their complete shaping plan, considering each potential step in the process, and measuring their progress against the written plan. Less scientifically disciplined trainers may work with just a mental picture of their shaping plan. You can do each shaping session for as long or as short as you like. Assuming your dog is happy to play the game, you can keep on playing! As with all training, try to end the session while your dog is still enthusiastic and successful.

Dubhy’s Picnic

shaping dog behavior
Every piece of furniture is now a potential prop for Dubhy!

I decided to shape Dubhy to flip open a picnic basket with his nose. I could have used pure basic shaping, in which case the steps in our shaping plan might have looked something like the one below. Because I’m doing basic shaping with a behavior goal in mind, not free shaping, I wouldn’t click random offered behaviors that aren’t in the shaping plan.

Note that I would click and treat several times at each step, unless, of course, Dubhy took a quantum leap over several steps, in which case I’d be prepared to leap with him.

1. Looks at basket
2. Moves toward basket
3. Sniffs basket
4. Sniffs basket closer to basket lid corner where opening is
5. Sniffs basket at basket lid corner
6. Nudges lid corner (here I might need to hold out to wait for stronger behavior to get the nudge)
7. Nudges lid corner harder
8. Nudges hard enough to move lid corner
9. Nudges hard enough to lift up lid corner
10. Nudges hard enough to lift lid corner higher
11. Nudges hard enough to flip lid open

When I put my plan into action and began training Dubhy to flip open the basket, I chose to take a shortcut and do a little prompting with a target stick. That allowed us to skip steps 1-4 and go directly to step 5, sniffing the basket lid corner. From there, it only took a few minutes for Dubhy to repeatedly offer a strong, reliable “open the basket” behavior.

Now that we have reliability with the goal behavior of opening the basket, I could incorporate it into a trick routine – perhaps packing picnic supplies into the basket, or unpacking them and laying them out on a waiting picnic blanket. Or perhaps he could find a small “lost” dog who was trained to lie quietly hidden in the basket. Or…?

Free Shaping

Free shaping is great for encouraging a dog who is somewhat shut down to offer behaviors, because he can’t be wrong. Anything he does that even remotely relates to the exercise gets clicked and treated. Once the dog is easily offering random behaviors, then you can, if you choose, switch to basic shaping with a goal behavior. Here are a couple of free shaping exercises you can experiment with:

karen pryor shaping
Every move is a winning one when playing “101 Things to Do With a Box.”

101 Things to Do With a Box – You can use any old cardboard box for this, or it doesn’t even have to be a box! You can play “101 Things to Do With Anything.”

Your dog can be on leash, or off, if he’ll stay and keep working with you. Set a chair a few feet back from the box or object, sit in the chair, and wait. As with the “Place” exercise, you’re looking for tiny pieces of behavior to click and treat – any behavior that relates to the box – a look, a step, a sniff, a push … only this time you have no specific goal in mind, and you don’t have to build up to a behavior – random behaviors are fine.

If your dog gets hung up on one particular behavior you can stop clicking that one and wait for something else. The more confident your dog is about offering behaviors, the more easily you can just quit clicking one thing and wait for another. At some point, if you wish, you can decide on a goal behavior based on the ones your dog has offered, and shape it into something specific – front feet only in the box; hind feet only in the box; all four feet in the box; turn the box over; fetch the box; or…?

Body Parts – Body Parts shaping helps your dog learn to offer behavior, and it also helps you realize how precise this process can be for shaping the tiniest of movements.

Sit in a chair with your dog facing you, and watch your dog closely for a movement in one of his body parts. Even a tiny movement will do. For example, you could watch for a flick of his ear, a turn of his head, the lift of a paw, or a tongue flicker.

shaping your dog
This dog is learning to flick a light switch. At first, she’s rewarded for merely sniffing or licking it. Next she’ll have to actually flick the switch before she gets a treat.

When you have captured one of these movements with your click and treat, that’s the one you’ll continue to focus on. Sit and wait for another movement of that same body part. Click and treat. Your goal is to reinforce that accidental behavior until your dog begins deliberately offering it. When he does, you can name it, incorporate it into a trick routine, or keep working with it to shape it into something bigger if you choose.

I really came to appreciate the power of shaping when I first purchased agility equipment, set it up in the backyard, and ran to get Dubhy, to see what he’d do with it. To my delight, as I introduced him to each piece of equipment, he immediately started doing stuff – sniffing it, pawing at it, biting it, jumping on it, just trying out different things to see what he needed to do to get me to click. Made training a breeze!

Karen Pryor’s 10 Laws of Shaping

In her landmark book, Don’t Shoot the Dog, behavioral biologist and past dolphin trainer Karen Pryor says, “…a well-planned shaping program can minimize the required drilling and can make every moment of practice count, thus speeding up progress tremendously.” She also tells us that the successful application of shaping principles makes the difference between shaping that is frustrating, slow, boring, and disagreeable, and shaping that is happy, fast, and successful.

karen pryor dog training book

Here are the 10 principles that Pryor suggests you follow for the most enjoyable and successful training:

1. Raise criteria in increments small enough that the subject always has a realistic chance for reinforcement.

2. Train one aspect of any particular behavior at a time; don’t try to shape for two criteria simultaneously.

3. During shaping, put the current level of response onto a variable schedule of reinforcement before adding or raising the criteria.

4. When introducing a new criterion, or aspect of the behavioral skill, temporarily relax the old ones.

5. Stay ahead of your subject. Plan your shaping program completely so that if the subject makes sudden progress, you are aware of what to reinforce next.

6. Don’t change trainers in midstream; you can have several trainers per trainee, but stick to one shaper per behavior.

7. If one shaping procedure is not eliciting progress, find another; there are as many ways to get behavior as there are trainers to think them up.

8. Don’t interrupt a training session gratuitously; that constitutes punishment. (Author’s note: For example, you’re in the middle of training and the phone rings. You drop what you’re doing and run to answer the phone. This is “negative punishment,” because the dog may perceive that whatever he did made a good thing [you/ training] go away. Instead, take time to gracefully end what you’re doing with the dog to attend to an interruption. I use an “all done” cue that lets the dog know the training session is over.)

9. If behavior deteriorates, “go back to kindergarten.” Quickly review the whole shaping process with a series of easily earned reinforces.

10. End each session on a high note, if possible, but in any case quit while you’re ahead.

The Canine Central Nervous System

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By Randy Kidd, DVM, PhD What’s on your dog’s mind? You may never know, but it can be helpful to know at least a little something about his brain – and the rest of his central nervous system (CNS). The CNS describes the system of neurons formed by the spinal cord, brain stem, cerebellum, and cerebrum. This month’s installment of the Tour of the Dog focuses on the CNS, its diseases and disorders, and treatments for those ailments. The peripheral nervous system (PNS), comprised of the cranial and spinal nerves (specialized nerves that carry information to the brain stem or spinal cord), are beyond the scope of this article. Macroanatomy

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The CNS “organ system” includes nerve cells (neurons) as well as tissues and cells that support the function and health of the nerve cells. The brain itself lies within a protected vault, encased by the protective “headgear” of the cranial bones. Extending backward from the brain is the brain stem, and continuing on from this stem is the spinal cord. The spinal cord extends inside the protective coverings of the spinal vertebrae to just beyond the bones of the pelvis, providing branching motor and sensory nerves to the limbs and organ systems along the way. A connective tissue called the meninges acts as a protective outer membrane surrounding the CNS tissues. It’s actually a collection of three layered membranes: the dura, arachnoid, and pia maters. The outer, dura mater (literally, tough mother) is a tough and fibrous outer covering. Internal to the dura is a thin meninge called the arachnoid mater, and its cobweblike structure (thus the term arachnoid, or spider) unites the dura with the pia mater. The pia mater is a thin and highly vascular membrane adhering closely to the surface of the brain. Note: When we consider the moving animal, it is important to appreciate that the meninges extend from the fibrous capsule they form around the brain, backward along the length of the spinal cord. The meninges thus offer a resilient membrane that gives elastic support to the flexing, contracting, rotating spine. In addition, since it is continuous, whenever a spinal vertebra is “stuck,” that “stuckage” will be reflected at other point(s) along the spine. This means that a chiropractic adjustment necessary in the lumbar region, say, probably will also necessitate additional adjustments somewhere else along the spine – say, in the neck region. Cerebral spinal fluid (CSF), produced by large ventricles that lie within the inner part of the brain, circulates in the subarachnoid space. The CSF helps maintain a constant environment for the neurons and glia by transporting metabolites from the blood and removing by-products of brain metabolism. It also helps connect the brain to rest of the body’s immune system, and creates a fluid cushion for the brain to float in. A sample of CSF fluid can be collected and examined as a diagnostic aid. Slice into the main part of the brain and you will see that most of its innards are white, with a thin outer layer, the cerebral cortex, that fits over the white matter like a glove. The cerebral cortex (cortex is Latin for “bark”) is extensively folded, which allows for much more surface area than would be available on a flattened surface. This increased surface area makes room for more cells; theoretically, the more intensely folded the cortex, the smarter the animal. The brain is physically divided into a left and right hemisphere, and the hemispheres are connected at their base by a horn-shaped structure called the hippocampus. For many years it was thought that the functions of the left brain (the logical, linear, focused-thinking brain) and right brain (emotional, global-thinking) were entirely separated, and each hemisphere was solely responsible for its designated function. Today’s research, however, indicates that there are many more connections and cross-overs between the hemispheres than originally thought. Thus, even when a human is engaged in linear, logical thought, the emotional brain is always tuned in, meaning that even the most logical of thoughts are being processed, at least to some extent, in an emotional fashion. Realizing this to be true, recent brain science has led to an extended appreciation of the mind/body connection. Archeology of the brain The brain has evolved over eons, with certain anatomical parts (and thus certain functional capacities) of the brain developing more in some animals than in others. The brainstem is the oldest part of the brain. It evolved more than 500 million years ago, and because it resembles the entire brain of a reptile, it is often referred to as the reptilian brain. It determines the general level of alertness and warns the organism of important incoming information, and handles basic bodily functions necessary for survival, breathing and heart rate, as examples. The cerebellum is attached to the rear of the brainstem. Among other functions, the cerebellum maintains and adjusts posture and coordinates muscular movement. Memories for simple learned responses may also be stored here. The limbic system is the group of cellular structures located between the brainstem and cortex. Two key parts of the system are the hypothalamus and pituitary gland. Although it is only about the size of a small pea, the hypothalamus regulates eating, drinking, sleeping, waking, body temperature, balance, and many other functions. It also directs the pituitary gland, the gland many consider the “master gland” of the body. The limbic system evolved sometime between 200 and 300 million years ago. Because it is most highly developed in mammals, it is often called the mammalian brain. In addition to its other functions, the limbic system is involved in the emotional reactions that have to do with survival. The cerebrum is the largest part of the dog’s (and other mammals’) brain. It is divided into two halves, or hemispheres, each of which controls its opposite half of the body. The hemispheres are connected by a band of nerve fibers, called the corpus callosum. The corpus callosum is the largest fiber pathway in the brain – a “bridge” of several hundred million nerve fibers. Covering each hemisphere is a thin layer of intricately folded nerve cells called the cerebral cortex. The cortex is the area of the brain where we and our dogs are able to remember, communicate, understand, and create. The cerebrum’s cortex first appeared in mammals about 200 million years ago. It is the part of the brain that is more highly developed in the human species than in any other animal. The cerebral cortex is further divided into several lobes, each with its own function. (“Mapping” of the brain is an ongoing process, and most of the work has been done in humans using a variety of electrical-, chemical-, and heat-based ways to analyze areas that are active during the time that specific activities or thoughts are being undertaken by the experimental subject.) The frontal lobe is primarily involved in decision-making and purposeful behavior. The parietal lobe, located just behind the frontal lobe, represents the body and its actions. The temporal lobe lies beneath parts of the parietal and frontal lobe; some of its functions include processing of auditory sounds, perception, and memory. The occipital lobe lies behind and beneath the parietal lobe and just above the cerebellum; its function is concerned with vision. Note that the importance of understanding at least some of the functions of the various brain parts is that it makes it easier to localize a lesion if one occurs. Microanatomy of the CNS Neurons are the cells that conduct nerve impulses. They are responsible for relaying sensory input (such as pain, pleasure, and the senses of smell, hearing, seeing, etc.); for proprioception (knowing where the body parts are at any time); and for transmitting impulses to the muscles to incite them to action. However, about 90 percent of the cells of the CNS are termed glial cells (meaning glue). There are several types of glial cells, each with its own function. Astrocytes and microglia provide physical and nutritional support for neurons; oligodendroglia and Schwann cells provide insulation to neurons; and satellite cells offer physical support for neurons. The brain, like the rest of the body, bathes in a soup of biochemicals that, when activated, create a variety of reactions that are essential for life. Neurons function by moving electrical impulses from one area of the body to another, and the chemicals responsible for this movement across nerve connections (synapses) are called neurotransmitters. Included in this category are epinephrine, norepinephrine, serotonin, histamine, and glutamate. Each of these is a protein that requires certain amino acids for its production; each has its specific function, and many have a specific target organ in which the function occurs. Recent evidence demonstrates that the health of neurotransmitters can be enhanced in several ways: good balanced nutrition, exercise, hand-to-fur contact such as massage, and living in a household full of love. The neurological exam Indicators for the possibility of neurological disease include behavioral changes, seizures, tremors, stumbling, or paresis or paralysis of one or more limbs. A complete neurological exam can be an extensive (and expensive) process, and, in the end, the diagnosis often resorts to simple deductive reasoning to narrow a large list of possibilities to a smaller list of more probable causes. Information about the time of onset, the course, and the duration of the complaint can be helpful. Congenital and familial disorders are most common in purebred animals at birth or within the first few years of life. Inflammatory, metabolic, toxic, and nutritional disorders can occur in any species, breed, or age. They tend to have a rapid onset and are usually progressive. Traumatic and vascular injuries have an acute onset, and they rarely become worse after the first 24 hours. Most degenerative and neoplastic disorders occur in older dogs; they tend to have a slow and gradual onset, and the symptoms often become worse over time. A complete physical may reveal nerve-related conditions. For example, a generalized bacterial infection may extend into the brain, meninges, or spinal cord; tumors may originate in one organ system and metastasize to nervous tissues; chronic inflammatory diseases may reside in organ systems, including nervous tissues; and metabolic problems that affect nerves also usually affect other organ systems. A neurologic exam should include an examination of the head, neck, thorax and thoracic limbs, lumbar and pelvic areas, pelvic limbs, anus and urethral sphincter, tail, and the animal’s gaits. Often, a veterinary chiropractor can thoroughly evaluate these areas, and, while the evaluation is in process, adjust the joints that feel “stuck” back into their normal range of motion. If the neurological deficiency is localized, the site of the lesion along the spine (or in the limb) may be evident. For example, a front limb dysfunction may be due to a lesion along the spine anywhere from the first cervical vertebra to one of the first two thoracic vertebrae. Or it may be caused by a lesion somewhere along the length of the limb, including the paws and toes. In addition to evaluating the dog’s posture and gaits (walking, trotting, turning, backing, etc.), there are many specific neurologic tests that are designed to evaluate isolated parts of the nervous system. Further tests may also be helpful. Clinical pathology may reveal a generalized infection, liver or kidney dysfunction, or hormonal or metabolic conditions that also affect the nervous tissues. Blood test results may reveal the presence of certain toxins that have caused a problem. For example, a particularly low level of serum cholinesterase suggests acute organophosphate (a common ingredient in anti-flea and tick products) toxicity. An evaluation of the cerebrospinal fluid may be helpful, especially for infections or inflammation. Radiographs can be used to detect fractures and some tumors. Computed tomography (CT) or magnetic resonance imaging (MRI) may be used to detect smaller lesions. An electroencephalogram (EEG) records the electrical activity of the cerebral cortex, and it is a good aid for detecting hydrocephalus, meningoencephalitis, head trauma, and cerebral neoplasia. Interestingly, the EEG is not especially proficient at diagnosing many of the more common forms of epilepsy. Diseases of the brain As you’d expect when dealing with an organ system that has a variety of cell types and a multitude of functions, there are many diseases and causes of diseases of the CNS, making diagnosis a real challenge. Almost every part of the CNS can be affected by any number of disease processes: congenital or familial, nutritional, metabolic, infectious or inflammatory, toxic, traumatic, vascular, parasitic, neoplastic, immunological, degenerative … or iatrogenic (resulting from the activity of the health practitioner) or idiopathic (of unknown origin). A diagnostic approach for any potential disease of the nervous system will entail a multidimensional approach. Often, an accurate diagnosis will depend on correlating several factors into one final picture.

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A clinical evaluation will assess the totality of clinical symptoms. Are the symptoms diffuse or focal; symmetric or asymmetric; painful or nonpainful; progressive, regressive, or static; mild, moderate, or severe? An anatomic location of the lesion may be evident from the prevailing signs. Potential mechanisms of the disease are considered (from the entire list above), and hopefully a short list of the most likely possibilities can be generated. Congenital disorders are most common in purebred animals at birth or shortly thereafter. Some familial disorders cause a progressive degeneration of neurons in the first year of life, while others (such as inherited epilepsy) may not manifest for several years. Trauma is a major cause of neurologic dysfunction due to physical damage, hemorrhage, edema, and progressive formation of oxygen-containing free radicals. Traumatic conditions have a rapid onset of symptoms, and the damage is generally complete within 24 to 48 hours. In other words, clinical signs will usually not get worse than they are one or two days after the traumatic event; whether the signs gradually improve depends on the extent of the original damage and the success of the treatment given. Infections (meningitis – infection of the meninges, and encephalitis – infection of the brain) can be caused by any of many agents including bacteria, viruses, fungi, protozoa, prions (a minute particle of a virus), and algae. Rabies and canine distemper are two examples of viral diseases that have a serious nervous system component. The most common neurological toxicities in dogs are caused by insecticides (such as those found in many flea and tick products), but the list of neurotoxins in the environment is almost endless. Metabolic alterations that result in nervous signs include hypoglycemia, hepatic dysfunction, uremia (kidney failure), and alterations in mineral metabolism. Both hypo- and hyperthyroidism can cause neurological signs, as can hypoadrenocorticism (Addison’s disease) or hyperadrenocorticism (Cushing’s disease). Vitamin deficiencies can cause ataxia, stupor, coma, and/or seizures. Vascular lesions are usually due to septicemia or bacterial embolism within the CNS. Unlike their human counterparts where cerebrovascular disease from arteriosclerosis (thickening and loss of elasticity of the arterial walls) and hypertension (high blood pressure) are fairly common, these two are rare diseases in dogs. Nervous system neoplasias (tumors) are reported more often in dogs than in other domesticated species. Overall frequency of tumors reported varies considerably, depending on the survey – from almost 3 percent of all dogs examined at necropsy to less than 0.02 percent of the examined dogs. One survey found that the most common sites for neoplasia in young dogs were located in the hematopoietic (blood forming) system, the brain, and the skin. Brachy-cephalic breeds – such as Boxers, English Bulldogs, and Boston Terriers – are at increased risk for developing certain tumors of the brain tissues. Each and every one of the many cell types present in the CNS can be altered to grow into its own tumor types – for example astrocytes, oligodendrocytes, and glial cells, respectively producing astrocytomas, oligodendrogliomas, and gliomas. Furthermore, each tumor type has its own propensity for growth or its ability to spread and become malignant. It is therefore an extreme challenge to accurately diagnose nerve tissue tumors and to offer a prognosis for how they will perform in the future. Holistic approach Given the difficulty of accurately diagnosing and adequately treating a disease of the nervous system, it is important that we think in terms of prevention of CNS disorders rather than cure. And while the CNS is all-inclusive in terms of its impact on the whole body, there are some general ways to help your dog maintain a healthy CNS. • At the top of the list is exercise. In the case of the CNS, we are referring to whole body/mind/spirit and heart exercise. Daily, moderate exercise will bathe all the body’s nerves with health-sustaining nutrients, and activity helps to keep all systems in balance. But the nervous system also needs to have its thinking, reasoning, creativity “worked” on a daily basis. Dogs (and people) who are exposed to novel experiences and whose day-to-day activities require creative reasoning are able to maintain healthier brains well into old age. Take your dog for a walk, meet new people and other animals, continue basic training and add “tricks” that stimulate the brain – all good prescriptions for a healthy brain. • Nutrition. While good nutrition is absolutely essential for a healthy nervous system, sometimes I think we make it too difficult. The basic keys to nutrition are easy: a balanced diet of good, high quality ingredients; absence of potentially toxic substances; species-appropriate foods (grass and grain for horses; meats with some veggies for dogs); and moderation. The older I get, the more I believe that a really balanced diet (lots of choices during the week’s meals) may be most important. You cannot beat fresh, organic, unprocessed, unpreserved foods for a truly top-quality diet. • Supplements. Use supplements if you have a compelling reason to do so; in some cases they can be helpful. But keep in mind that evidence is mounting that supplements given in the form of pills or capsules are not nearly as effective as their counterparts found in natural foods. And, out-of-balance supplements or those given in excess may be more problematic than helpful. Examples of nerve-enhancing supplements include antioxidants such as vitamins A, C, and E; a balanced vitamin B supplement; and magnesium (given in a format that balances it with other minerals). Gingko (Ginkgo biloba) improves nerve function, possibly due to its ability to enhance oxygen flow to the brain. Other herbs such as hawthorn berries (Crataegus species) enhance blood flow, and most herbs contain high levels of antioxidants. • Socialization. In today’s crowded world, dogs absolutely need to be socialized. Any dog that hasn’t learned to stay out of the street (or that isn’t being walked on a leash), or that has not learned how to approach other dogs without inciting a fight, is a trauma case waiting to happen. • Chiropractic. There is nothing better for health and healing, especially for the nerves that come from the spinal cord and supply peripheral body parts, than periodic chiropractic adjustments. A “well-oiled” spine is an essential component for overall health, allowing for a full range of pain-free movement and creating a flow of healthy nervous input to dependent muscles and organs. Conversely, “stuck” joints often create irritated nerves, which then adversely affect the organs and muscles they supply. • Homeopathy and acupuncture are two powerful medicines that may be helpful for treating many nervous system diseases. Many practitioners have had good success treating epilepsy with acupuncture, and particular homeopathic remedies seem to fit some of the symptoms of a variety of nervous system diseases. The protocol for using either of these medicines will vary with the disease symptoms, as they are presented. Don’t be surprised if the way of diagnosing and the approach to providing alternative therapies differ from the way conventional Western medicine typically approaches disease and healing. • Tincture of time. It was once thought that nerve cells did not regenerate and that animals did not generate new nerve cells, but recent evidence clearly shows this to be wrong. Damaged nerve cells can regenerate, and nerve cells continue to develop as long as we stimulate the need for them (i.e., as long as we stimulate the brain to think and act). Often, especially after a traumatic event, all that is needed for healing is to be patient and wait for it to happen. • Heart to head connection. Consider your dog’s emotional health as an integral part of her/his nervous system. A little loving contact goes a long toward creating and maintaining a healthy CNS. The recent advances into the science of the brain indicate that it may truly be the body’s inner health maintenance organization. When the brain is emotionally relaxed, satisfied, and happy, it sends the message to all other body parts that everything is under control, that homeostasis has been achieved. On the other hand, however, putting the animal under emotional stress alters the biochemical messages being generated by the brain, and the result is that all other body parts are also stressed.   Also With This Article“What You Can Do”-Dr. Randy Kidd earned his DVM degree from Ohio State University and his PhD in Pathology/Clinical Pathology from Kansas State University. A past president of the American Holistic Veterinary Medical Association, he’s author of Dr. Kidd’s Guide to Herbal Dog Care and Dr. Kidd’s Guide to Herbal Cat Care.

Prevention Plus

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Readers may be surprised to learn from this month’s article “Heartworm: Don’t Take It Lightly” that we recommend the use of conventional heartworm preventative drugs. Our usual suggestion is to minimize the use of pesticides, vaccines, artificial food additives, and toxic chemicals on or around dogs, so one might guess that we’d also be opposed to heartworm preventatives.

One can readily find numerous anecdotal reports about raw-fed, holistically supported dogs who successfully resist heartworm infection without the benefit of preventatives, or even dogs who live well into their senior years while hosting a small population of heartworms. Some holistic practitioners believe this is the natural state of a healthy dog. A properly fed dog with a vibrant immune system, they say, should be able to live in a state of relative health and balance with parasites.

Challenge studies have demonstrated that if dogs who were never previously exposed to heartworm were deliberately infected with 100 heartworm larvae, between 60 and 75 adult worms will develop in about 90 percent of the dogs. This suggests that dogs do have some small amount of natural resistance to the parasites. But we think it’s folly to bet your dog’s life on the notion that you can build his resistance to heartworm solely with a natural diet and holistic healthcare – particularly in areas where heartworm disease is prevalent.

That’s because we’ve also heard stories from people like Christie Keith, a Scottish Deerhound breeder and longtime advocate of raw diets and holistic healthcare for dogs. Keith opted not to administer conventional heartworm preventatives to her dogs for 16 years – but was converted to their use after two of her raw-fed dogs developed heartworm infections. We’ve heard other heartworm tragedies, but Keith’s story is particularly resonant. If such an experienced and dedicated proponent of holistic healthcare wasn’t successful in a low-risk environment at preventing infection in her dogs, perhaps it just can’t be done. It may well be that dogs were never meant to have to resist year after year of repeated exposure to the parasites.

However, we have determined that there are a number of ways that you can minimize your use of the conventional preventatives and still fully protect your dog. Researcher Mary Straus brings these findings to light in the heartworm article.

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Training Tips
We also have two really great training articles in this issue: Mardi Richmond’s “Way to Stay” and Pat Miller’s “The Shape of Things to Come.” Both articles offer detailed instruction on fun, positive methods for producing a happy, well-behaved dog who is highly motivated to figure out what you want and do it.

There is, however, a catch – one that should be apparent from the length of the articles: you have to actually practice with your dog to achieve your training goals! Try it! You’ll be amazed at what you and your dog can accomplish in just a few minutes of positive training a day – every day.

-By Nancy Kerns

Self-Taught?

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Our goal for WDJ is to give our readers information they can put to use immediately to help improve the health and behavior of their dogs. Of course, I consider the magazine a success when I receive letters from readers thanking us for helping save their dogs’ lives, but I also feel a deep satisfaction when I realize me and my dog benefit from things I’ve read in WDJ.

For example, I read a long article in the Washington Post today about a scary infection that is killing people and worrying public health officials. A very common bacteria, Clostridium difficile, has mutated into a virulent form that causes fatigue, stomach cramps, nausea, and severe diarrhea – and alarmingly, it is resistant to many antibiotics. In fact, people who are taking antibiotics are the most common victim. Modern heartburn drugs, which reduce the production of stomach acid, are also emerging as an agent that can make a person vulnerable to the infection.

What does this have to do with dogs? As I read the article, I felt that I fully understood the gravity of the situation only because longtime WDJ contributor Randy Kidd, DVM, PhD, precisely described the potential for this scenario in his March 2004 article, “Dangers of Antibiotic Misuse.” Dr. Kidd warned against giving your dog antibiotics for any but the most compelling bacterial infections. This reduces the risk of promoting antibiotic-resistant bacteria in your home, and preserves the protective bacteria in your dog’s digestive tract.

Dr. Kidd’s article noted that you don’t even have to be the one taking an antibiotic to become resistant to it; he cited studies that show resistant bacteria can infect every species of animal within reach of the animal that was given the antibiotic. He also noted that antibacterial soaps and cleaners speed the development of resistant bacteria and should be avoided. Kidd’s article is definitely worth rereading.

For a photo to illustrate Pat Miller’s article on teaching your dog to “target” (“Right On Target” in this issue), I followed her instructions and taught my Chihuahua, Mokie, to ring a bell that I hung on the back door. It took about 10 minutes. Mokie already knew how to touch his nose to my hand – the result of target training I did with him in March 2001, when we published our last article on target training. Shaping the behavior to get him to touch his nose to the bell instead of my hand, and then using his paws to really make it ring took just a few minutes.

It’s taking a bit longer to get him to ring the bell when he wants to go outside. I’ve been asking him to ring the bell every time we go outside, so he gets the idea that he rings the bell, and then we go out. My hope is that he’ll realize that ringing the bell makes it possible to go outside, and he’ll start offering the behavior when he needs or wants to go out.

So far, he offers the behavior only when someone is eating, in hopes of getting a treat for his new trick. I think he’ll figure it out – as soon as I can train the kids not to give him food for ringing the bell because they think it’s so cute. I guess I need to ask Pat to write an article for WDJ on that.

 

-Nancy Kerns

Whole Dog Journal’s 2006 Dry Dog Food Review

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Last month, in “A Super (But Secret) Industry,” I discussed the difficulty of getting into a factory where wet pet food is made – a task I have not yet managed to accomplish. Happily, I have been able to tour a few facilities that manufacture dog treats and dry food. This hasn’t resulted in any huge surprises to me, but sure helped me understand the many challenges facing manufacturers who want to produce the very best dog food possible.

As we have described in our annual food reviews since 1998, this task starts with top-quality ingredients. To mix a metaphor, you really can’t make a silk purse out of sows’ ears, chicken heads, bovine tumors, restaurant grease, rendered fat from animals that died on farms, and cheap grain by-products left over from the human food manufacturing industry. Many people say, “Oh, for goodness’ sakes, they are just dogs! Why can’t they eat guts and stuff?” Well, they can, of course, and most dogs do! The vast majority of pet food produced in this country is made with what we would consider to be poor-quality ingredients.

For optimal health, every credible human nutrition expert in the world advocates eating a balanced varied diet of a varying menu of fresh, top-quality foods. There is no biological reason to expect dogs (or any other animal) to be any different. Pet bird experts now realize that an all-seed diet is unbalanced and inadequate for avian health; birds also need access to fresh plant material (fruits, vegetables, green foods such as sprouts, etc.) to thrive. People who keep rabbits as pets now know that alfalfa pellets alone don’t sustain rabbits as well as a diet that includes a variety of fresh hay, root vegetables, and green, leafy vegetables.

Dogs are just the same. A balanced, home-prepared diet of a variety of fresh, healthy ingredients is optimum; a commercial diet made with the same ingredients is leagues better than a commercial diet made with cheap fats discarded from restaurants, inexpensive carbohydrates produced as waste from the brewing industry, and plant proteins such as corn gluten meal (animal proteins have a much more complete amino acid profile than plant proteins).

Of course, the best ingredients cost a lot, and a reliable supply may be difficult to find. Pet food makers who are committed to producing foods for the top end of the market have to continually hunt for ingredients that meet their standards – and be prepared to reject shipments that fail to pass their inspection.

We strongly believe that ingredient quality is the key to a dog food’s quality, as well as the criterion that is easiest for the average consumer to judge, based on a simple review of the ingredients listed on the label. See “WDJ’s Dry Dog Food Selection Criteria,” page 4, for a detailed description of what is desirable and what is best avoided when scrutinizing the ingredients’ panel on your favorite dog foods.

Good manufacturing practices
Ingredients aren’t the whole story, of course. A company that spends the lion’s share of its budget on the ingredients for its foods, but, as one example, expends few resources on laboratory testing to confirm the product meets its label guarantees, may cause the food to flunk inspection by state feed control officials and stop its sale.

Tough standards (and top compensation) for employees, good employee management, superior packaging, proper storage, reliable transportation, smart marketing, education of sales staff at retail locations, knowledgeable and responsive customer service and support . . . these are all areas where a company needs to shine to garner the long-term support of consumers who will pay top dollar for top-shelf products.

Manufacturers who neglect even one of these areas are just asking for trouble. If your plant employees don’t read well or communicate well with their supervisors and coworkers, they may fail to properly inspect a load of corn that arrives at the plant, allowing toxin-laden grain into production (see “Yes, Dog Food Can Kill” sidebar); or accidentally contaminate production equipment with an improperly diluted cleaning agent; or add a dangerously high amount of the mineral supplement to a batch of food, which can cause a life-threatening overdose in exposed dogs.

Most hazards to the wholesomeness of a pet food can be controlled through rigorous planning and management. However, a company must have the resources and commitment to expend those resources to continuously maintain vigilance over the product management from ingredient purchasing to consumer support.

Consumers have few resources available to determine whether dog food makers have “the right stuff” in these areas. In our opinion, one of the best indictors of a company’s commitment to quality is reflected in its ability to respond quickly and intelligently to consumer questions and concerns. Noncompulsory manufacturing certifications (such as the ones described in the “Further Attributes of a Top-Quality Food” sidebar), are another way a company can unequivocally demonstrate its commitment to quality.

Compare for yourself!
In the “2006 Top Approved Dry Dog Foods” chart we’ve listed some dry dog foods that meet our selection criteria. It’s vitally important that you understand the following points regarding these foods:

• The foods on our list are not the only good foods on the market. Plus, we’ve named just one variety in each line by each maker. Usually, all the other varieties in a given line also meet our criteria.

• Any food that you find that meets our selection criteria (see “WDJ’s Dry Dog Food Selection Criteria” sidebar), is just as good as any of the foods on our list.

• We have presented the foods on our list alphabetically. We do not “rank order” foods. We don’t attempt to identify which ones are “best,” because what’s “best” for every dog is different.

• The proof is in the pudding. If your dog does not thrive on the food, with a glossy coat, itch-free skin, bright eyes, clear ears, and a happy, alert demeanor, it doesn’t matter whether we like it or not.

Using the selection criteria outlined above, and perhaps taking into account some of the “extra credit” criteria listed on the next page, go analyze the food you currently feed your dog. If it doesn’t measure up, choose a new food based on quality, and what works best for you and your dog in terms of types of ingredients, levels of protein and fat, local availability and price. Then, try it and see how it suits your dog.

Our list of approved “Top Dry Dog Foods” is offered as a starting place, and for its value as a comparison to other products you may find.

Also With This Article

Click here to view “How to Compare Nutrient Levels in Canned Dog Foods with Dry”
Click here to view “Your Dog’s Diet: A Dry Food Discussion”
Click here to view “WDJ’s Approved Dry Food List”

Train Your Dog to Target

[Updated June 29, 2018]

TARGET TRAINING FOR DOGS: OVERVIEW

1. Teach your dog to target as a way to help him focus his attention on you. This can be useful when trying to get him safely and calmly past something that scares or arouses his aggression.

2. Start by teaching your dog to target to your hand; use a target stick (homemade or commercially made) later to extend the range of the target.

3. Even old or nonambulatory dogs can be taught to target with their noses; use this sort of behavior to keep your dog engaged and his mind sharp.

During the two-plus decades that I trained my dogs in old-fashioned obedience classes, I never learned the pervasively useful and versatile behavior of targeting. The closest I came was the narrow application to “go-outs” in advanced level competition classes – not really the same thing at all. Even today, despite its usefulness, targeting is not a widely known behavior outside positive professional training and competition circles. When I introduce the concept in my basic good manners classes I get a sea of blank stares in response, as if each human client is thinking, “Why on earth would I want to teach my dog to do that?”

Targeting means teaching your dog to touch a designated body part to a designated location. Nose targeting is most commonly taught, but it can also be trained with a front or hind paw, a hip or shoulder, even an ear or tail! The designated target can also be anything imaginable, including the palm of your hand or your closed fist, a finger, target stick, spot on the wall or door, or just about any object you choose to ask your dog to target to.

dog target training

The question is, why would you want to teach your dog to touch his nose (or other body part) to a designated spot on cue? The reasons are legion. For example:

• Targeting can be used to boost the confidence level of a timid dog.

• It can prompt a dog to offer a new behavior without a food lure.

• You can use it to keep a dog’s attention focused on you instead of on distractions.

• Your dog can turn appliances on and off, close doors, ring bells.

• Target as an “emergency recall” cue.

• Targeting is used to teach dogs to locate the contact zones in agility.

• Your dog can learn to play the piano!

• It’s useful for teaching lateral movement for Canine Freestyle (dancing with your dog) and APDT Rally.

• It’s easy to train, it’s just plain fun, and dogs love it!

Target Practice is Easy for Dogs!

It’s ridiculously easy to teach. We start in our classes by having the dog target to his owner’s hand, since that doesn’t require yet another piece of equipment to juggle along with clicker, treats, and leash. Hold out your open hand at your dog’s nose level, palm facing him, fingers pointed toward the ground. When he sniffs or licks your hand, click! your clicker and give him a treat from your other hand. Make sure his nose actually touches your skin – “close” only counts in horseshoes. Be sure to click! the instant his nose makes contact with your skin. If you consistently click! too soon, you might teach him to stop before he touches you. If you consistently click! too late, you’ll teach him that moving his nose away from you is the way to earn a reward.

When you’ve clicked and rewarded your dog’s first touch, remove your target hand, then offer it again, in the same position. When he sniffs, click! and treat. Do it again. And again. Notice you have not used a verbal cue yet!

Most dogs will do the initial sniff easily, due to a behavior phenomenon known as novelty of stimulus. “What’s this?!” your dog says, and sniffs to check it out. Be sure you’re ready to catch that first curious sniff with your click! and treat, and you’re well on your way.

If your dog doesn’t sniff your offered palm, rub some hot dog or other moist treat on your skin to make your hand more enticing. When he sniffs or licks, click! and treat.

Your dog may sniff your newly offered hand a few times and then ignore it, looking directly at your treat hand. Novelty of stimulus has worn off, and he’s going directly to the source of the treat. You can almost hear him say, “Why am I looking at this hand? The GOOD STUFF comes from over there!” When this happens, hide your treat hand behind your back, offer him the target hand, and wait. He should soon sniff the offered hand. If he doesn’t, rub a treat on it and offer it again. If that doesn’t do it for him, take a step or two backward and offer him the target as he moves toward you. When he touches, click! and treat.

Repeat this step over and over, until he deliberately bumps your hand with his nose. This is the heart-stopping “Aha!” moment that positive trainers love – when you can see that your dog knows that the way to make the click! happen is to touch your hand.

Some dogs “get it” very quickly. Louis, a Border Collie client of mine in Santa Cruz, California, got it in three repetitions. Others take longer for the light bulb to go on, depending on variables such as the owner’s skill and timing, the dog’s interest in the training game, the desirability of the treat reward, and the level of distractions in the surrounding environment.

You can enhance your dog’s learning speed by working in a quiet location, using very delicious treats, and paying close attention to your click! timing.

Teach Your Dog to Touch Moving Targets

As soon as your dog is deliberately and consistently bumping your hand with his nose you can add the verbal cue. Say “Touch!” just before his nose touches your skin. Click! and reward. Gradually offer the verbal cue earlier and earlier, until he associates the verbal cue with the targeting behavior, and is responding to the cue.

Now you can raise the bar. So far, your dog understands that he’s supposed to touch his nose to your hand when he’s sitting in front of you and the target is presented to him at nose level. It’s time to change the criteria.

Now you want him to touch the target wherever it is, even if it’s moving. Back away from him, offer the target and say “Touch.” As he gets up to follow you, keep moving slowly backward. When he catches up to you and touches the moving target, click! and treat. Move your hand off to one side and ask him to touch it. Click! and treat. Move it to the other side. Move it lower, toward the floor. Move it higher, so he has to jump up to touch it. Put it above a chair seat, so he has to place his front feet on the chair to reach up and touch it.

When he’s really confident about touching the target, put the behavior on a schedule of “random reinforcement” – ask him to touch two times before you click! and treat. Then three times. Then once.

dog targeting

Then once. Then four times. Then two times. Vary the number of times you ask him to touch before he gets clicked; don’t always make it harder and harder, or he may get frustrated and give up.

Introducing New Targets

Now you can teach him to touch other targets. A target stick can be a small branch off a tree, a dowel from the hardware store, a pencil or Tinker toy (for small dogs), or an “official” target stick purchased from a pet supply source. If your target is homemade, put an eraser topper on one end to designate the actual target. You will accept touches near the topper at first, but you’ll ultimately shape the touches to the actual target by clicking only those touches that get closer and closer to the topper.

Hold your target stick perpendicular to the ground with the target end near your dog’s nose. Some dogs will sniff the end of the target stick the first time you offer it. Click! and treat. Others may need a bit of hotdog rubbed on the topper to motivate them to touch this new object. Still others may be afraid of the stick. If your dog is afraid, hold the stick so most of it is hidden under your arm with only an inch of the tip protruding from your hand.

When your dog will touch the tip, extend the stick a little at a time, until he’s touching it at full-length. “A little at a time” varies from one dog to the next. Some dogs will accept a six-inch increase, others will tolerate only half-inch increments. Start small to avoid frightening your dog, and work up to larger increases if he seems to be tolerating them well. As soon as he’s readily touching the tip of the stick start using the verbal “Touch” cue.

When he’s proficient at touching the target stick, use it to extend your reach. With three feet of arm length and three feet of target stick you can get him to touch things a full six feet away from you. Place the tip of the target stick against a door, wall, or other object to teach him to touch other things, including people. This is a useful tool for encouraging a timid dog to be brave. When he’s very confident about touching his target stick you can place the target closer and closer to a scary object; your dog will become braver about approaching the scary object because of his very positive association with targeting.

You can also teach your dog to touch things by holding the target object in your hand. Hold a bell tied to a string in the palm of your hand and say “Touch!” He tries to touch your hand, but the bell is in the way so he touches it instead. Perfect! Click! and treat. Repeat several times, then add the word “bell” to your verbal cue. Say “Bell, touch!” He’ll respond to the familiar “Touch!” part of the cue. Click! and reward. When he’s associated the word “bell” with touching that particular object, you can drop the “touch” part of the cue. Gradually pay out string so the bell hangs below your hand.

Using just the “Bell!” cue, do several repetitions of click! and treat at each new length of string, until the bell is hanging full length below your hand.

You may need to shape for touches that are strong enough to actually make the bell ring. If he touches it too softly, start shaping by clicking only the harder touches, until he is consistently bumping the ball hard enough to make it ring.

Now his “Bell” behavior can alert you to whatever you desire. Many people hang the bell on a door and teach the dog to ring the bell when he has to go out.

How to Teach Your Dog to Target with New Body Parts

Front paws are the second most frequently used body part for targeting. If your dog is “naturally pawsy” you can capture the behavior with a click! and treat when he’s pawing at something – something it’s okay for him to paw at. Or elicit the behavior by punching holes in the top of a baby food jar and putting something scrumptiously delicious inside. When he paws to get at it, click! and treat. Repeat this until you can predict the paw behavior, then add the cue. Be sure to use a different cue. If you want “Touch” to mean “touch with your nose,” then you might use “Foot” to mean “touch with a paw.

If your dog won’t paw at a desirable object, use a treat lure over his head to get him to lift a paw off the ground slightly. Move the treat slightly to the right (his left) to put him a bit off balance and get him to lift his right front paw. Click! and treat. Repeat until he’s offering to lift his paw, then hold that baby jar or other target object where his foot will touch it as he lowers it. Then add the cue.

When he’ll touch the jar on cue, you can use your “Foot” cue to teach him to touch different objects. This behavior is often used as a signal in scent work, so the dog can tell his person that he’s found the designated scent, object, person, or animal.

Dogs naturally use front paws and noses to do things, so it’s easy to teach them to use those body parts to target. Other body parts – hind paws, hips, shoulder, ears, tend to just go along for the ride. It can be more of a challenge to teach the dogs to be aware of these parts, and to use them deliberately.

A hip touch can be useful for getting lateral movements often utilized in Canine Freestyle and for the side-step in APDT Rally obedience. Desensitize your dog to a hip target such as a Ping Pong paddle by touching him on his hips and hindquarters with the object until he doesn’t react. If he’s quite worried about it, feed treats as you touch him until he’s no longer worried.

Now put the target aside, and just work on getting a side-step by holding a treat in front of your dog’s nose as you stand by his right side. Move the treat slowly in an arc toward his left hip. As he steps to follow the treat, his right hip will move toward you. Click! and treat. Repeat until he does this easily, then practice on the other side as well so his left hip moves toward you.

Build up to several steps on each side, and then you’re ready to pick up your target again. Hold your target next to your dog’s hip and use a treat to get him to side-step. When his hip bumps the target, click! and treat. Gradually increase distance until he will move his hip six inches to the target. Be sure to click! and treat each time.

When he’s doing this easily, add your verbal cue. Remember to use a new cue for the new body part – you might select “Bump” as your Hip Touch cue. Gradually fade the use of your treat lure following your “Bump” cue, until he will touch his hip to the target on cue without the lure.

Endless Applications for Targeting in Dog Training

Need more ideas? You can utilize the nose-touch behavior to move your dog into heel position and keep him there by using your hand as a target next to your leg, or a target stick, for a small dog. You can teach him to close cupboard doors by having him target to a spot on the door. (Nose-touch is a better choice than a paw for this, unless you want him to scratch at doors!) You can teach him to turn lights on and off by pushing up on a stick attached to a light switch or by touching a “Touch Lamp” with his nose or paw. He can do object discrimination by learning to identify and use nose or paw to touch various objects (or people) by name. A hind foot touch can be useful for “stacking” a dog in the confirmation ring.

As you can see, the opportunities for application of the touch behavior are virtually endless – limited only by your creativity.

Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA, is Whole Dog Journal’s Training Editor. Miller lives in Fairplay, Maryland, site of her Peaceable Paws training center.

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