Protecting Your Dog from Tick Bites and Lyme Disease

Health
Ticks

March 21, 2019

[Updated December 14, 2018]

Given the potential duration and magnitude of a Lyme disease infection in your dog, we think it’s pretty important to do something to protect your dog from ticks, especially in areas where cases of Lyme are common. This is one of the instances where you have to weigh all the factors against each other – in this case, your dog’s health and vulnerability, the risk of his exposure to ticks, the prevalence of Lyme in your area, and the tick-repelling and tick-killing products available to you – to decide what you are going to do to protect your dog. It’s not an easy equation; it’s more of a complicated algorithm. Let’s look at each of these areas and how they interact.

Tick-Killing Chemicals and Your Dog’s Immune System

Say your dog is vibrantly healthy – no chronic skin problems, no recurrent ear infections, no mysterious digestive ailments, and no chemical sensitivity that you have noticed. He may not have any problems with an occasional treatment with a pesticide.

Unfortunately, a small percentage of dogs (or people in their families) can’t tolerate the use of powerful insecticides. Some respond with nausea, vomiting, tremors, and even seizures when exposed to even low concentrations of tick-killing chemicals. Others suffer skin reactions: hair loss, rashes, and sores. Animals with compromised organ function or a history of chemical sensitivity may suffer a general health setback after treatment.

Doxycycline

In a study published in the New England Journal of Medicine, researchers at New York Medical College tested the once-controversial strategy of administering a one-time dose of doxycycline immediately after a tick bite, and found that this effectively prevents the development of Lyme disease. The findings have important implications for dogs as well as humans living where Lyme disease is widespread. For those who prefer not to use even a single dose of antibiotics, the swift administration of medicinal herbs and other products that kill bacteria may have a similar result.

The researchers also discovered that Lyme appeared only if a tick had been attached to the skin for 72 hours or longer, verifying the research of Dr. Max Appel. In addition, there was no risk of Lyme if the tick was flat and had not become engorged with blood.

The doxycycline test, led by Dr. Robert Nadelman, was conducted in Westchester County, NY, which has one of the highest rates of Lyme disease in the world.

Your Dog’s Tick Exposure

If you live in an area where there are few or no cases of Lyme disease (among people or dogs), or your dog never has the opportunity to come into contact with ticks (this may be true for many city-dwelling dogs), you may be among the lucky few who don’t have to worry about Lyme disease prevention.

But there are many places where, especially in the tick’s most active time of the year (April through October), any dog that leaves the pavement will end up with ticks. And dogs that spend a lot of time afield will come home loaded with the pests. (The ticks that carry the bacteria that cause Lyme disease include the deer tick and the western black-legged tick; however, other ticks can carry and transmit other diseases, including Rocky Mountain spotted fever, babesiosis, and erlichiosis).

Also, some individual dogs seem to be more attractive to ticks than others. Holistic practitioners often regard an animal’s susceptibility to parasites to be a sign of poor or compromised health – a result of a sputtering immune system or, in more esoteric terms, weak life energy or chi. However, anyone who has been the target of more mosquito bites than his campfire companions might beg to differ; maybe some people (or animals) actually do “taste better.”

Whatever the cause, you might find it necessary to do more to repel ticks from one of your dogs than the others. You may not have to dose each of your pets to the same extent to provide a similar level of protection. Instead, treat each dog as an individual. If you have one dog that tends to attract more ticks, use more repellents (and vigilance) with that dog, and, as long as the ticks stay away from your other dogs, less with them.

Prevalence of Lyme Disease

According to the Centers for Disease Control, in the United States Lyme disease is mostly localized in states in the northeastern, mid-Atlantic, and upper north-central regions, and in several counties in Northern California.

In areas where Lyme is common, the risk is greatest in residential areas surrounded by woods and/or overgrown brush. Venturing off paths and into grassy areas increases a person’s or dog’s exposure to ticks, who sit on grass leaves, waiting for any warm, carbon dioxide-exhaling body to approach. They begin waving their arms as soon as they detect such a candidate and grab ahold!

Tick Repellents and Killers

There are also a number of commercially produced herbal preparations that some owners swear keep ticks off their dogs.

CJ Puotinen, author of The Encyclopedia of Natural Pet Care, says she alternates between a topical repellent made by Heart Foods called Tickweed Plus, and a neem-based repellent called NeemAura Naturals Herbal Outdoor Spray made by NeemAura. Tickweed Plus contains tickweed, neem, pennyroyal, lavender, and other herbs; NeemAura’s product contains neem, myrrh, lemongrass, orange, citronella, and other oils.

Get Puotinen’s recipe for a homemade essential oil tick repellent here.

Comparing Best-Known Pesticide Tick Repellents

DRUG/ MAKER/ ACTIVE INGREDIENT	APPLICATION	ACTION	FREQUENCY	NOT RECOMMENDED FOR:	PRESCRIPTION?	MODE OF ACTION
Adam’s Flea & Tick Mist Farnam Pet Products Pyrethrin	Liquid spray	Kills and repels ticks	As needed; no more than 1x per week	Puppies less than 12 weeks	No	Pyrethrins are natural extracts of the chrysanthemum plant. They affect the nervous system of insects and kill ticks quickly. Products that contain pyrethrins are generally applied directly to the dog.
Bio Spot Farnam Pet Products Permethrin	Liquid spot application	Kills and repels ticks	Monthly	Puppies less than 12 weeks	No	Permethrin is a synthetic pyrethrin compound that affects the nervous system of insects. In this application, it is used in an oil carrier that helps distribute the chemical over the dog’s body; the permethrin is stored in (and gradually released) from) the animal’s sebaceous (oil-producing) glands. Permethrin lasts longer than natural pyrethrins and is more toxic.
Defend Ex Spot Schering-Plough Permethrin	Liquid spot application	Kills and repels ticks	Monthly	Puppies less than 4 weeks; dogs with known organ dysfunction	No	Permethrin is a synthetic pyrethrin compound that affects the nervous system of insects. In this application, it is used in an oil carrier which helps distribute the chemical over the dog’s body; the permethrin is stored in (and gradually released) from) the animal’s sebaceous (oil-producing) glands. Permethrin lasts longer than natural pyrethrins and is more toxic.
Frontline Merial Fipronyl	Liquid spot application	Kills ticks	Monthly	Puppies less than 12 weeks	Yes	Fipronyl blocks the passage of chlorine through cells in the tick’s nervous system, paralyzing the insect. In this application, fipronyl is mixed with an oil carrier that helps distribute the chemical over the dog’s body; the fipronyl is stored in (and gradually released from) the animal’s sebaceous (oil-producing) glands.
Revolution Pfizer Selamectin	Liquid spot application	Kills American dog ticks only	Monthly	Puppies less than 6 weeks; dogs treated with other topical flea/tick preps; use caution with sick, weak or underweight dogs	Yes	Selamectin blocks the transmission of the insect’s nerve signals; the tick dies of paralysis. Unlike the other liquid, spot-application products, Revolution enters the dog’s bloodstream through the skin, eventually passing into the sebaceous glands and onto the skin and hair. This product is said to control only American dog ticks — NOT the deer ticks that commonly carry Lyme disease.
Preventic Collar Virbac, Inc. Amitraz	Chemically impregnated collar	Kills ticks	4 months	Puppies less than 12 weeks	No	Amitraz-laden collars kill ticks by inhibiting the function of their nervous system; ticks are paralyzed and die before or shortly after attaching to dog. Amitraz has little or no affect on fleas. May be used in conjunction with other flea and/or tick treatments.

Dietary Supplements as Tick Repellent

Some holistic practitioners say that adding bitter herbs to a dog’s diet can actually make him less attractive to ticks. Juliette de Bairacli Levy, author of The Complete Herbal Handbook for the Dog and Cat, developed a supplement for this purpose that is now manufactured by Natural Rearing; the herbal antiseptic tablets contain garlic, rue, sage, thyme, eucalyptus, and wormwood.

While neem is most frequently seen as a topical agent used as an insect repellent, first-aid therapy, and to treat a variety of health problems, neem also improves digestion and helps make animals less attractive to fleas, ticks, mosquitoes, and intestinal parasites. Puotinen recommends giving dogs one 500-mg. capsule per 10 pounds of body weight daily.

Beverly Cappel, DVM, of Chestnut Ridge, New York (heart of Lyme country), makes a nutritional supplement called Fleas Flee that contains brewer’s yeast, liver, and oyster shells. Dr. Cappel regards the supplement as very helpful for making dogs less attractive to fleas and ticks, but reminds clients that a supplement should not be regarded as a sole line of protection. (Fleas Flee can be purchased from Dr. Cappel by calling 845-356-3838.)

Thorough and Frequent Tick Checks

The war on ticks can’t take place on just one front; you have to devote time and constant vigilance to prevent sneak attacks on your dog. Practice these anti-enemy missions on a regular basis:

• Check for ticks during and after every outdoor venture. Especially examine your dog’s legs, armpits, belly, neck, and face. Ticks naturally travel toward dark and/or warm, blood-rich areas of the dog. Remember: The goal is to find the ticks when they are still tiny, before they are engorged with blood. The transmission of the Lyme-causing spirochete does not happen until 24 hours after the tick begins feeding.

• Take extra time to examine your dog for the presence of ticks when the pests are at their most active. Ticks increase their movements in mid-morning, from about 8am until about 11am; the largest number of ticks emerge on sunny days. Ticks are also most active from April through October.

• Using a flea comb helps detect and remove tiny ticks. Drop the ticks you find into a container of tick-killing solution. Do not squish them or toss them away; the tiny creatures can survive this treatment.

Relieving Separation Anxiety Symptoms

Behavior
Separation Anxiety

Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA

July 13, 2001

You are at your wits’ end. You were gone for less than an hour, and when you returned home, your dog Maxx had already destroyed your new sofa, defecated on your antique Oriental rug, and inflicted deep gouges in the just-repainted front door frame.

You have tried leaving him in the backyard, but he chewed through the fence and got picked up by animal control. You tried crating him, but he scraped his toenails bloody and broke a canine tooth trying to dig and chew through the crate door. When you left him in the garage he tore everything within reach to shreds. When you left him in a covered chain-link dog pen on the back patio, you got complaints from three different neighbors about his nonstop barking and howling. You’ve even tried showing him the damage and punishing him for it, but it hasn’t helped. You hate to think of giving him up, but you don’t know what to do with him. If he would only behave himself when you are away from home.

Maxx has separation anxiety – a behavior problem that results from a dog’s natural instincts to want to be near other members of his pack. It is a normal survival instinct, but one that can often be derailed early in a pup’s life through proper conditioning (see “Learning to Be Alone,” WDJ July 2001). For you and Maxx, however, it’s too late for the proper early stuff. Mad Maxx already has a full-blown case of separation anxiety, and now you need to try to fix it.

Conditioned response
It won’t be easy. Separation anxiety is a panic attack – your dog’s classically conditioned response to the terror of being left alone. When you walk out the door, Maxx doesn’t sit around and muse about whether or not to eat the sofa. Separation anxiety behavior is not a conscious choice – it just happens.

In fact, his anxiety begins before you even leave the house; your dog can tell from your morning routine whether this is a get-up-and-go-to-work day (which leaves Maxx home alone) or a relax-and-stay-at-home day. As soon as Maxx determines that it’s a work day, he starts to worry, and every step in the routine increases his anxiety. The 5a.m. alarm clock. The rush to put Maxx out to potty and then toss him his food dish. The shower and shave. The suit and the shiny shoes instead of blue jeans and sneakers. Coffee and a banana instead of bacon and eggs. The grab for the briefcase and car keys, the pause at the front door for dramatic hugs and kisses to Maxx, and the fervent admonitions to behave himself while you’re gone.

Phew! By the time the door closes in his face and you rush down the sidewalk to the car, Maxx is already worked up into a high state of arousal. He makes no conscious decision to go on a destruction binge – he is simply stressed to the max. Effective ways for him to relieve his stress include chewing, digging, urinating, defecating, and vocalizing.

Anxiety or hijinks?
Most separation anxiety behavior happens within 30 minutes of the owner’s departure and within a similar period before the owner’s anticipated return. This is one of the keys to determining whether Maxx’s behavior is truly an anxiety reaction or simply a bout of puppy hijinks.

If you can leave and come back in an hour to an unscathed home but four hours puts Maxx over the top, chances are you’re dealing with boredom, excessive energy, or a housetraining issue rather than true separation anxiety. (Some dogs will become destructive in their efforts to go outside to relieve themselves if they are very committed to not soiling the house.)

If, on the other hand, your dog displays immediate signs of anxiety upon your exit, he’s a candidate for SA retraining. If you can just get the anxious dog through the first half-hour or so, and avoid raising his anxiety level at homecoming time, you are usually home free. Simple – but not easy.

This task is best accomplished through a program of counter-conditioning and desensitization (CC&D) – fancy terms to describe getting Maxx to like something he now intensely dislikes or fears. In this case, the “something” is being left alone.

The challenge with using CC&D for separation anxiety is that ideally you start with a very low level stimulus that the dog can tolerate, associate it with something wonderful (like the dog’s favorite treats), and gradually work up to a level of normal stimulus, while taking care not to trigger the unwanted response during the process.

If you are desensitizing a dog to loud noises, for example, it is relatively easy to prevent his exposure to noisy environments between training sessions. It’s considerably more difficult for the average pet owner to design a schedule that leaves Maxx alone for no more than a few seconds at first, then minutes, then hours, during the weeks or months that it takes to build his tolerance to being alone. If you are truly committed to working through the problem, and have the time and energy, you can get through this.

Managing Maxx
So, where do you start when you can’t confine him, you can’t trust him loose in the house or yard, and you can’t punish him? What are you supposed to do with a Mad Maxx who is rapidly wrecking everything you possess? You need to do two things:

• Manage his environment while his behavior is being modified so he can’t hurt himself or destroy the things around him.

• Using counter-conditioning and desensitization, teach Maxx that it is safe for him to be alone.

Let’s start with the easy one: managing the environment. This means not leaving Maxx alone until he has decided that being alone is okay. You might be able to find a friend, neighbor, or relative who is home during the day, where Maxx can stay and be safe. Perhaps you are fortunate enough to work in a place where your dog could come to the office with you. It never hurts to ask!

Doggie daycare is another excellent option. Commercial daycare centers are thriving in an increasing number of communities around the country; there might be a good one near you. Be sure the daycare operator knows that Maxx has separation anxiety and understands how to deal with it – that he can’t be left alone and must not be punished for anxiety-related behavior.

Sometimes, although only very rarely, getting another dog can help. If you are considering this, you should only get a second dog because you want one and are committed to keeping the newcomer whether it helps Maxx’s problem or not. Be careful – you could end up with two dogs with separation anxiety/destructive behavior!

Finally, there are pharmaceuticals that have appeared on the market relatively recently that purport to help with resolving a multitude of canine behavior problems. Clomicalm (clomipramine hydrochloride) is the one most commonly prescribed for separation anxiety, but must be used in conjunction with a good behavior modification program in order to be truly effective; the drug alone will not solve the problem.

Maximized training
A behavior modification program will help your dog understand that he can survive being left alone. Depending on the severity of the problem, this may happen relatively quickly, or it may take a long time and never be completely resolved. If you have a Velcro dog who can’t even tolerate you being in the next room, you will need to start with very small steps. Here’s one program for working with separation anxiety:

1. Teach your dog to accept a tether with you standing right next to him (See “Tethered to Success,” WDJ April 2001). When he is comfortable on the tether, take one step away, say “Yes!” before he has a chance to get upset (or Click! your clicker, if he is clicker-trained), then step back to him and feed him a treat. Repeat this step until he shows no sign of anxiety when you are one step away. Be sure that you remain very matter-of-fact about stepping away. If you get excited or emotional, so will he.

2. Now, gradually increase the length of time that you remain one step away before you “Yes!” (or Click!) and return, until he will tolerate your one-step distance for a full minute or longer. Vary the longer times with shorter ones, so he doesn’t start to get anxious about the exercise getting harder and harder each time. You want him to never know how long you will be gone, and at the same time you are teaching him that you always return.

3. Now take two steps away, say “Yes!” and immediately return to feed him a treat. Repeat at this distance until he is comfortable with you being two steps away, then again gradually increase the time at this distance.

4. Very gradually increase the distance, repeating the exercise at each new step until he is calm, then increasing the time at each new distance. If he panics at any point, you have moved too quickly – go back to the previous distance and work there again until he is calm. The take another half-step, if necessary, to avoid triggering his panic.

5. When he will remain calm while you walk to the other side of the room, sit down, and read a magazine, you are ready for the next phase. Start the exercise as before, but this time walk to the doorway to another room, step outside briefly, “Yes!” and step back into the room before he has a chance to get upset that you are out of sight. Return and reward. Repeat this until he is calm about you stepping out of the room, and then gradually increase the length of time that you remain out of sight.

6. Now, sometimes close the door as you step out of the room, briefly at first, then for longer periods.

7. Do the same exercise with each of the doors leading from the room, including the door that leads to the outside. Sometimes leave the door open, sometimes close it. Be sure to return and reward each time before your dog goes into panic mode. If he starts acting anxious at any time, slow down, and go back to a part of the exercise that he can tolerate. Then, when he is calm, proceed more slowly to the step that upset him.

8. Now take him off the tether and repeat Step 6, closing the door each time to prevent him from following you out of the room. Start with very brief departures, so he doesn’t have time to start digging at the door. Gradually increase the length of time you are out of the room, but remember to intersperse the longer ones with short ones so he never knows how long you will be gone. Remember, too, to remain calm yourself. If you start getting anxious or excited about the process, so will he.

9. When he is comfortable with you stepping outside for several minutes, start adding bits of your departure routine to the exercise. Pick up your keys, step outside briefly, return, “Yes,” and reward. Then put the keys down. Go outside, open and close the car door, then come back inside. “Yes” and reward. As he gets better with pieces of the routine, add more pieces.

10. Assuming that you drive a car to work or school, the next step is to actually start the car engine, then come back inside and reward. Start the car engine, then vary the amount of time you wait before coming back in to reward. Drive down the driveway, then drive back to the house, come back in and reward. Your goal is to gradually increase the length of time you can be outside to 30 minutes or more. If you can hit the magic 30-minute mark, you are well on your way to success.

Pacing is key
Be sure to proceed through these 10 steps at a pace that your dog can tolerate. Short, successful sessions at first (five to 10 minutes), are better than long, frustrating sessions that end in failure. You may be able to proceed through the steps in a week or two if your dog’s separation anxiety is mild, but it is more likely that it may take you several weeks, or months, to work up to 30 minutes. If you aren’t making any progress at all, talk to your veterinarian about adding Clomicalm to the equation.

Fixing separation anxiety is hard work, and it’s easy to get frustrated with your dog’s destructive behavior. Remember that he’s not choosing to do it out of spite or malice – he is panicked about his own survival without you, his pack, there to protect him. It’s not fun for him – he lives in the moment, and the moments that you are gone are long and terrifying.

If you make the commitment to modifying his behavior and succeed in making him brave about being alone, you will not only have saved your home from destruction, you will have enhanced the quality of your dog’s life immensely, and perhaps saved him from destruction, too.

-by Pat Miller

Taking Steps to Making Vet Visits Less Stressful for Your Pup

Health
Vet Visits

Nancy Kerns

March 30, 2021

Let’s face it: Most dogs aren’t crazy about going to the vet. And why should they be? After all, vet visits are stressful at best. They often mean a new environment, slippery floors, and even more slippery exam tables. Vet offices are full of funny smells, scary sounds, strange people, and unknown animals. Plus, the poking and prodding they are subjected to can be uncomfortable and sometimes even painful. It may be overwhelming for even the most easygoing dog.

Reasoning with your dog may help some (“Oh, honey, it’s for your own good!”). But what will help even more is getting your dog accustomed to the types of experiences that he is likely to encounter on visits to the veterinarian. The following seven tips can help you help your dog learn to tolerate the occasional “well-dog” health examanination. They will also help your dog be better prepared to accept necessary medical treatment in case of a serious illness or injury.

1. Take your dog by the vet’s office, just to say hello.

“One of the best things you can do,” says E.V. Sharp, DVM, of Creekside Veterinary Hospital in Soquel, California, “is just to stop by every once in a while. Bring your dog in, weigh him, and walk out again.” New places are sometimes anxiety producing – just because they are new. Stopping by occasionally reduces your dog’s anxiety by simply transforming the vet’s office from an unknown to a known environment.

Better yet, take along some great treats, preferably something that is incredibly special to your dog like steak or hot dogs. Ask the receptionist, the vet tech, and even your veterinarian to give your dog a few treats, too. If you have a puppy, start your “social” vet visits as early as possible. But don’t worry if you have an older dog or a dog that is already anxious about vet visits. Fun and happy social visits can dramatically reduce an adult dog’s stress level too.

Be sure to call ahead and tell your vet what you want to do. Ask if there is a good time to stop by for a few minutes. You’ll want to make sure that your social visit is convenient for the vet and the office staff. You’ll also want to make sure they are not dealing with an emergency or an infectious disease at the time of your visit.

2. Take the time to touch your dog everywhere, every day!
Getting your dog accustomed to being touched all over is essential for your dog’s comfort during an examination. In a routine exam, a veterinarian may look in your dog’s eyes, ears, and mouth, listen to his heart and lungs, touch and probe his belly, manipulate his joints, and take his temperature. Dogs that are handled, petted, and touched all over daily will be less likely to perceive this as invasive, and more likely to regard it as affectionate (if somewhat personal!) touching.

In addition, when you regularly spend time touching your dog, you will be more likely to notice changes such as lumps, swelling, or tenderness that may indicate health problems.

One great way to help your dog learn to tolerate being handled is to make it part of play and relaxation. When you play rowdy games such as fetch, wrestle, or tug-o-war with your dog, you can encourage the game and help your dog tolerate touch through play pats, ruffling his fur, and gentle roughhousing. When you spend quiet time with your dog, stroke and pet him all over. Play with your dog’s ears, muzzle, belly, and around his tail. Try holding your dog’s paw while you rub his tummy. Massage his shoulders and hips. Stroke your dog’s ears and gently place your finger inside the ears. Touch around his legs and in between his toes.

“It’s also a good idea to pinch them every once in a while,” said Dr. Sharp. Not hard of course, but enough that a little needle pinch for vaccinations or drawing blood won’t be a totally unusual experience.

Another very important part of this routine is to take note of your dog’s sensitive spots. Most dogs have one or more spots where they prefer not to be touched. Some dogs don’t like to have their paws touched. Others may not like their hips, ears, or tails touched.

You can help even the most reluctant dog accept the handling of sensitive areas with a little patience and some great treats. Have your dog near you in a comfortable position. Then feed your dog his favorite treats while briefly touching the sensitive spot. For example, if your dog is sensitive about having his paws handled, gently and quickly stroke your dog’s paw and then give him a slice of hot dog or another great treat. Once your dog is happy about the brief touch (because he knows the hot dog is coming!), you can leave your hand on his paw just a little bit longer before giving him the treat. Gradually work up to holding the paw, then giving gentle squeezes, and eventually touching between his toes. (For more details on this technique, see “Classical Conditioning,” WDJ June 2001.)

Don’t try to rush it or push your dog to do anything that is uncomfortable. The goal is to help your dog learn to accept or even enjoy being touched everywhere. If your dog exhibits any aggression around being touched, please consult with a behaviorist to help you work through the problem.

When your dog is happy about being touched all over, ask friends, a trainer, or other family members to touch your dog, too. The more dogs are accustomed to being handled by different people, the easier it will be for them to be handled during regular vet visits or in the case of an illness.

Remember being a kid and wanting to dress your animals up? That can actually help, too! “If your dog enjoys it, put things on them,” Dr. Sharp said, laughing at the idea. Bandanas, doggie sweaters, booties, dog packs, and other items can help your dog accept things like bandages or Elizabethan collars if the need ever arises.

3. Play with your dog’s mouth.
“Probably the hardest thing we deal with regularly are dogs who are not used to having their mouths handled,” says Dr. Sharp. She recommends brushing your dog’s teeth regularly to help them get used to having their mouths handled. “It really pays off! It’s good for the dog and the vet. It can extend times between teeth cleanings, too.” With some dogs, Dr. Sharp notes, it can even mean the difference between being able to perform teeth cleanings with the dog awake and having to give the dog anesthesia.

In Dr. Sharp’s opinion, it’s not as important to brush the teeth really well as it is just to do it! Even brushing the outsides of the teeth can make a big difference. Always use canine toothpaste; people toothpaste isn’t safe for dogs. Plus, the great flavors available in doggy toothpaste, such as chicken, beef, or malt, can make brushing all the more enjoyable for your dog.

Another good exercise is opening your dog’s mouth, looking in, and then immediately popping a treat in his mouth. Your dog will learn that your opening his mouth means treats are coming.

Dogs can also learn to enjoy having their mouths’ handled if you dab a little peanut butter, yogurt, or cottage cheese on your finger and then rub your finger over your dog’s gums or along the roof of his mouth. Your dog will get used to having fingers in his mouth, plus he’ll get a special taste treat.

4. Get your dog used to being leaned over, held onto, and picked up.
Even dogs that are handled regularly can have a tough time when someone leans over them, holds them down, or picks them up – understandably so! But during routine vet visits and especially during an emergency, your dog may need to be lifted onto a table, the veterinarian will need to lean over your dog, and your dog may need to be held for vaccines or exams as well as for emergency procedures.

Bending over your dog from various positions in play and other activities can help him learn to accept this behavior from humans. In addition, you can help your dog tolerate being held through everyday affectionate behaviors. For example, if your dog enjoys a good belly rub, try reaching over your dog’s shoulder to rub his belly. In our home, for example, we routinely kiss the tops of our dogs’ heads, reach around their shoulders to rub their tummies, and give them great big gentle bear hugs. All of these activities are fun, and help our dogs accept and even enjoy being leaned over and held onto (plus we get lots of dog kisses in return!).

Smaller dogs are more often used to being carried, but for some larger dogs, the only time they are physically picked up is at the vet’s office. That in and of itself can be a traumatic experience. You can set up specific training times to familiarize your dog with being lifted, or you can incorporate this into regular activities. When you groom your dog, for example, consider lifting him on to a low table. If you are not sure how to lift your dog properly (for your safety and his), ask your veterinarian, groomer, or trainer to show you how to easily and safely pick up your dog.

5. Teach your dog to sit, stand, lie down, and turn around.
Basic training can really help lower your dog’s stress at the veterinary clinic. Your dog will be a whole lot more relaxed if you can ask him to move his own body, rather than having to push, pull, or cajole your dog into position.

The basic behaviors that are essential for ease during vet exams include:

• Sit and down. Because many dogs want to flop over or slink away instead of holding still, knowing sit and down can make it easier on both your dog and the vet during an exam.

• Relax. Also known as “roll on your side,” this trick is great for positioning dogs when the vet needs to scrutinize just one side of your dog.

• Stand. This is another basic position that is good for specific exams. Plus, it’s easier to pick your dog up from a stand if you need to lift him onto the table.

• Turn. Veterinarians often want to turn your dog so that he is facing a different direction on the table. Instead of having to physically move your dog, a simple turn behavior (carefully if they are up on a table) can eliminate the need for having to physically manipulate them into position.

A few other behaviors that may also be helpful include:

• “Touch” or “Target.” If your dog is trained to touch your hand with his nose on cue (see “Right on Target,” WDJ March 2001), then you can use a hand touch to help move or position your dog, or to move his head up or down. It may also be useful in helping dogs if they need to be given nose drops!

• Shake. Also called “give me a paw,” this exercise can help turn foot examinations into a fun activity for your dog!

• Watch me. Any type of eye contact exercise is a good tool to turn his head in a particular direction, but also this is a great exercise to keep your dog occupied while being examined.

6. Familiarize your dog with a muzzle and crate, just in case!
Getting your dog used to wearing a soft muzzle doesn’t mean your dog is bad, or that he will necessarily bite. For some dogs, using a muzzle is a good way to ensure safety if the vet needs to examine a sensitive place. And, even sweet, gentle, and well-socialized dogs can bite when they are threatened, scared, or hurt; it’s an instinctive and normal reaction. Plus, a dog that is seriously ill or has suffered a painful injury may lash out without even realizing what he is doing.

Purchasing a soft muzzle (the fabric kind with an opening on the end that allows your dog to take treats while wearing) and helping your dog learn to wear it comfortably can become a fun game – and it will ensure that your dog is prepared, just in case.

To help your dog learn to wear a muzzle, simply hold a treat on the “nose” part of the muzzle. Let your dog put his nose through and take the treat. Have your dog do this several times every day for a week or more. When your dog becomes excited when he sees the muzzle (because he knows it means treats), you can slip it on for a few seconds, feed your dog a treat or two, and then take it right back off. After a week or more at this stage, you can start leaving it on for a few seconds at a time and gradually increase the time. Keep this game fun!

Once your dog can comfortably wear the muzzle for a few minutes at a time, you can put it away and bring it out occasionally to remind your dog how much fun the muzzle is to wear. Then, if your dog ever needs to wear a muzzle during an emergency, he will be prepared.

Crate training your dog is equally important. Crates are not only wonderful aids for house training, they also make comfy sleeping quarters and provide safe travel compartments. Your dog’s ability to settle into a crate can mean the difference between a stressed-out dog and a comfortable dog if he should ever need an overnight stay at the veterinary hospital.

“We can really tell when a dog is crate trained,” said Dr. Sharp. “The dogs who are crate trained, go in and lie down.” Dogs who aren’t crate trained more often bark or cry from being confined.

7. Liberally employ treats and toys.
When you do take your dog to the vet for a regular exam or for treatment for an illness, be sure to bring along treats or toys to help reinforce your dog’s good behavior. Be generous with your rewards and really let your dog know when he is doing a good job.

Use chew toys to help dogs who tend to “hide” in the waiting room; this helps many dogs feel safer and more secure. Some dogs will lie under a chair (preferably behind your feet) with a chew toy and settle in until it is their turn to see the vet. You may also want to try TTouch or other types of relaxing massage to help your dog “de-stress” while in the waiting room (see “A Calming TTouch,” WDJ May 1999).

Many dogs who are nervous in a vet’s office do very well when given a “job.” I’ve been known to run through my dogs’ entire “trick” repertoire in the waiting room because it keeps my high-energy working dogs focused and relaxed.

Your vet may also find it useful to employ your dog’s favorite toy or treat. Dr. Sharp recalls dealing with a Border Collie whose stress reaction manifested itself through aggression; she won him over by playing ball with him in the exam room! “This was a Flyball dog,” said Dr. Sharp, “and playing ball totally broke through his aggressive behavior.”

Keep up the good work!
After your dog has become well-accustomed and trained for trips to the vet, it’s a good idea to continue with your daily handling and occasionally stop by the vet clinic just to say “hello.” And, if your dog has been doing great at the vet and then suddenly, after a traumatic visit, does an emotional backslide, don’t worry! Just read back over these tips and re-acquaint your dog to the different elements involved in vet visits. You can help your dog recover and learn to again relax during regular vet exams.

-by Mardi Richmond

Mardi Richmond lives in Santa Cruz, California, where she teaches Agility for Fun classes and writes about dogs. She is the co-author of Ruffing It: The Complete Guide to Camping with Dogs.

Let Them Eat Grass!

Food
Dog Food Information
Care
Environmental Hazards

CJ Puotinen

July 13, 2001

grass1 — Most dogs will eat a few blades when they have the chance. Others are veritable lawnmowers, eating (and often vomiting) whole clumps of grass, to their owners’ dismay.

A reader asks, Why does my dog eat grass? It makes him throw up. I’d like to train him not to do this, but I’m not sure how.

Dogs have been eating grass for so long that one species is called dog grass in their honor. Dog grass or couch grass (Agropyron repens), which is also called quackweed, grows in all but our southernmost states, and it is most commonly found in the upper Midwest.

The worlds most experienced canine herbalist was Juliette de Bairacli Levy, whose Complete Herbal Handbook for the Dog and Cat was published in 1955. In its sixth edition (1992, Faber & Faber, London), she wrote, ”The favorite dog medicine, also much eaten by cats, is dog grass or couch grass. Of this herb they eat the leaves and the root, which they either vomit up, with much yellow bile fluid, or excrete. It is a cleanser of the bowels and removes worms. When my dogs cannot get couch grass, they will utilize other grasses, but do so with reluctance. Their next choice after couch grass seems to be wild oats.”

Preventing dogs from eating grass is a serious mistake, she warns, noting that dogs bring on deliberate internal cleansing by eating things that help them expel excess bile, mucus, and other impurities.

Feeding clean greens

At the same time, dogs fed grass on a regular basis don’t seem to crave outdoor grass the way they do if grass isn’t part of their diet.

”I know a man who raised barley sprouts commercially for horses,” wrote wheatgrass pioneer Ann Wigmore in Our Precious Pets (National Humane League, 1987). ”He had great success with restoring fertility to impotent studs. A friend thought that if these sprouts were so great with horses, they might also be great with dogs. He fed them to dogs with wonderful success. I would suggest either rye or barley sprouts for dogs and cats. These sprouts should be better for animals than wheat sprouts. They would serve as a good supplement to commercial pet foods.”

To grow rye or barley grass for pets, soak one cup organically grown grain in one quart water for 8 to 10 hours or overnight. Drain the jar and leave it on its side in a warm location, away from direct sunlight. After 24 to 48 hours, a tiny white rootlet will emerge from each grain. If you don’t see this growth, your grain is not viable and should be discarded. Irradiated grain won’t sprout, and neither will grain that has been improperly stored.

To grow grass, spread the sprouting grain on one inch of moist potting soil or top soil in a plastic garden tray. For best results, create a one-inch channel around the soil for drainage.

Cover the tray for two days, then uncover, water it thoroughly and place it in direct sunlight or under grow lights. Water as needed to keep the soil moist.

Begin harvesting the grass with scissors or a sharp knife when it is six to eight inches tall. Cereal grasses keep well in the refrigerator if stored with a damp paper towel in plastic zipper bags from which the air is expelled prior to sealing.

Cut or mince the grass into tiny pieces, or place a small amount in a blender or food processor with other foods.

Begin by feeding a small amount, as little as a fraction of a teaspoon, to be sure your dog will accept the grass. Gradually increase the amount to about one tablespoon per 50 pounds of body weight.

Cereal grasses are rich in chlorophyll, vitamins, minerals, enzymes, and amino acids. Before fast-acting antibiotics were developed, chlorophyll was the drug of choice for preventing infection, curing ulcers, relieving pain, and treating skin diseases and anemia.

Ann Wigmore described how wheat grass and other cereal grasses improved the health and growth of her guinea pigs, parakeets, turkeys, chickens, dogs, cats, monkey, raccoon, and skunk, and she published letters from people who gave grass to their pets to prevent or treat cataracts, fleas, tumors, excessive shedding, diarrhea, anemia, and other illnesses.

Theres probably no humane way to train a dog not to seek something its body needs, so the best strategy here may be to add grass to your dogs dinner and respect his practice of herbal medicine.

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February 21, 2025

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How To Choose The Best Shelter Dog for Your Family

Lifestyle
Adoption

Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA

June 8, 2001

Ask trainer Sue Sternberg where you should get a dog and, without hesitation, she’ll tell you to go to an animal shelter. She should know – as a nationally recognized dog trainer and owner of Rondout Valley Kennels, a boarding kennel, training and behavior center, and private shelter in Accord, New York, she regularly works with shelters across the country, and counsels families who have adopted from them.

In addition, Sternberg has produced several booklets and videotapes about issues specific to shelter dogs and shelter dog adoption. The booklets include Temperament Testing for Dogs in Shelters and A Guide to Choosing your Next Dog from the Shelter; the videos include The Controversial Pit Bull about temperament testing Pit Bulls in shelters, and Training Your Shelter Dog. She also is a frequent and popular speaker at all sorts of dog-related venues.

Setting aside all of the arguments for buying a puppy from a breeder, Sternberg emphatically pronounces that you should adopt a dog from a shelter because, as she says, “it’s the right thing to do. Because there are great dogs in animal shelters, and because dogs in shelters need homes. There is no need to get a puppy from a breeder in order to raise it right – getting your dog at an early age is no guarantee of how he will turn out. Plus, you can find all the great qualities you could ever want in a shelter mixed-breed dog or puppy, or in one of the thousands of purebreds waiting in shelters on any given day.”

Of course, there are plenty of canine train wrecks desperately seeking homes in animal shelters as well – dogs who will cause heartache and trauma for the average dog owner. Sternberg offers tips to help prospective adopters find the diamonds in the rough world of animal sheltering.

Before you visit a shelter
There are a number of steps you need to take before you even set foot inside the shelter door. Doing some pre-visit homework can greatly increase your odds of finding the perfect pup. Here are Sternberg’s suggestions:

• Visit Petfinder on-line, at www.petfinder.org. This web site lists shelters across the country, and can pinpoint the ones in your area starting with those closest to you. You can also search for specific breeds or breed mixes.

Caution: If all dogs on a particular shelter’s website are described the same way (sweet, friendly, loving) then the shelter probably doesn’t know the personalities of their dogs very well, or chooses not to be forthcoming with the information. This would be a good shelter to avoid.

Petfinder is not a complete list of all shelters, so you also need to check your local phone book for others in your area. You should be willing to travel a good distance, as much as three hours or more, to find the right dog at the right shelter.

• Contact the shelters on your list and ask about their return policy. A good shelter will always accept any dog as a return that they have adopted out at any time in his life, for whatever reason the owner may be unable to keep him. You should not expect a refund if you must return your dog, but shelters that refuse to take a dog back after 30 days (or whatever time limit) are not accepting full responsibility for the lives that pass through their hands.

• Ask the shelters about their adoption procedures. You will want to be able to visit with your prospective new family member outside of the kennel. If that is not allowed by a shelter, cross that one off your list.

• Ask the shelters about their criteria for making dogs available for adoption. Good shelters do temperament testing, and do not make dogs available who have a prior history of biting. Some dogs are not appropriate for our human society. A shelter who places all dogs up for adoption and never euthanizes is doing a disservice to potential adopters. Don’t go to such a shelter.

• Sit in on a dog training class (or several). Find a trainer you like, who is kind to dogs and motivates them with treats, toys, and praise. (A selection of trainers from across the country is available from the APDT Trainer Locator at www.apdt.com.) Ask the instructor for good shelter referrals. If there are students in the class with shelter dogs, ask them which shelter they adopted from and what their experiences were. Avoid shelters where others have had negative experiences.

• Talk to the trainer you like about accompanying you to the shelter to select a dog. You should expect to pay a fee for this service, so you may want to arrange to have her visit with you once you find one or more possible adoption candidates.

• When you do start visiting shelters, look beyond a slick exterior. A good shelter is made up by people who care, and the good dogs in their kennels. There are lots of old, rundown, dark and damp shelters that have great dogs and are staffed by wonderful people, and there are others that are just as wretched as they look. There are also bright, pretty, high-tech modern shelters that treat people and animals well, and still others that are all window-dressing, forgetting to treat their human and canine clients with compassion.

• Avoid rigid preconceptions about what kind (age, breed, sex, size, color, coat length) of dog you want. Be prepared to enter the shelter with an open mind. Size, for example, is not a good indicator of energy level or adaptability to a small house – many large dogs are better suited to apartment life than are the typically high-energy but small Jack Russell Terriers.

The shelter visit
Although it’s best to avoid preconceptions about what model of dog you are looking for, Sternberg advises that it is very important to know what to look for behaviorally. “A high level of sociability will contribute more to a dog’s success in a home than any other trait,” Sternberg says. “Overall, be looking for a dog that really likes people and wants to be with them, who is affectionate, congenial, and bonds easily and strongly. These are the dogs who are most fun, and the least worry to live with.”

Stand firm on this behavior criteria as you progress through Sternberg’s 12-step program for adoption success:

1. As you enter the shelter, get a reading on the attitude of staff and volunteers. Are you greeted warmly and treated well? If you are asked to fill out a questionnaire, are the interviewers genuinely interested in who you are and helping you find the right dog, or are you grilled like a criminal? Any concerns about your answers should be used to help educate, not condemn you. If you feel like you are getting the thumbscrews and third-degree, leave. It would be almost impossible to concentrate on your task in an environment like this.

2. When you enter the kennels, make a quick pass through without stopping to schmooze the dogs. Pen and paper in hand, make note of any dogs that stand out for you. Ideally, you might find four or five who do.

3. On your second pass-through, stop and visit with each of the dogs you noted. Put your hand up to the kennel wire or bars. The dog should readily come up to visit you and sniff your hand. Remember, these dogs are socially deprived, and should be seeking your attention. When a candidate sniffs your hand, tell him he’s a good dog, and move your hand back and forth, slowly, several times, about five inches each way. A social dog will follow your hand. Remember, you want a social dog – a well-socialized, outgoing, and friendly dog is the least liable to be aggressive. If the dog jumps at your faces, barks at you, lunges or, alternatively clings to or retreats to the back of the kennel, cross him off your list and move on to the next dog.

4. When you have identified the dogs on your list who are very social, take them out of their kennels one at a time, to a quiet room if possible. (Not all shelters can provide this luxury. Do the best you can – find a relatively quiet corner somewhere.)

Stand with the dog for five minutes, and totally ignore him. The dog should look at you in a warm way, and try to worm his way into your affections – leaning on you, nudging, licking, trying to cuddle. Jumping up is okay if it is done as attention-seeking, not in an attempt to bowl you off your feet as he bounces away from you.

If an employee is with you and the dog is seeking attention from the employee, that’s okay – it just means the dog has already formed a bond with that person. If in five minutes the dog shows little or no interest in you or in other humans who are with you, put him back. He is not a good candidate.

5. If he is very social, pet him slowly and gently down his back. He should stand still and enjoy this, or lean into you, seeking more contact. If he shakes you off after you’ve touched him (“Yuck, people cooties!”) or moves or lunges away from your touch, he’s telling you he doesn’t like being petted, or being around you. This dog is at risk for being aggressive anytime people touch him in a way that offends him. Put him back.

6. If he passes the petting test, ask a shelter staff member if you can feed him a meal – a small bowl of kibble, or a handful of biscuits that you brought with you. You want to test him for resource guarding – another behavior that puts him at high risk for biting. Put a bowl of food or pile of treats on the floor, enough that it will take him about 45 seconds to finish it. Now (BE CAREFUL!) talk to him, then pet him gently on the back. (Do not try to take the food away!) You want him to wag his tail, wag his tail harder, or even stop and look at you as if to say, “Hi! I’m eating right now, I’ll be back with you shortly.” He may even stop eating and prefer to be with you.

However, if he stiffens, blocks you with his body, glares at you, lowers his head into the dish, growls, or tries to move the food away from you, he is a resource guarder, and not a good adoption choice.

7. If he passes the first food test, up the ante. Ask the shelter staff if you can give him a chew hoof, pig ear, rawhide, or some other very valuable object. Again, you want to see if he is cooperative or competitive with this resource. Slowly move toward him and look for any of the guarding signs described in the previous step. If you see them, stop the test. If not, slowly reach for the object from a distance of at least two feet, then jerk your hand back. Repeat this step three times. You are looking for a dog who is relaxed about your approach. If you see any signs of guarding, don’t adopt. Have the staff person retrieve the valuable object and put the dog away.

8. If the dog is still with you, your next step is to pet him all over. He should actively enjoy being petted, perhaps wag his tail, even lick you. He should not mouth you, even gently. If he does, put him away. Mouthiness, even done gently, is a sign of resistance, and may escalate to a bite if someone, such as a child, ignores the sign and keeps on petting or touching.

9. Now take out a toy (that you brought with you for this purpose, or one that the shelter provides, if they prefer) and see if he will play some sort of game with you: fetch, tug-o-war, or chase. Play the game for three to four minutes – enough to get him excited and aroused. Then abruptly stop the play, and put the toy up, preferably on a shelf where he can see it. Take note of how long it takes him to disengage from playing and return to you to settle and socialize, perhaps sit or lie down next to you. Ideally, he will do this within two minutes. If he is still aroused after five minutes, put him away. This is the kind of energy level that the average dog household is not equipped to deal with. (If, on the other hand, you are looking for the next World Frisbee or Agility Champion, he might be a candidate.)

10. Take the dog for a walk on leash, outside if possible. Don’t worry if he pulls, or is very distracted – these are behaviors that are normal for shelter dogs, and can be retrained. Do watch for aggressive behavior toward other dogs or people while he is on leash. If you see any, put him away and cross him off your list.

11. If this dog is still on your list when your walk is done, have a staff person put him back in his kennel, then watch him as other strangers pass by, especially children, big men, and anyone who moves or dresses oddly. Avoid a dog who barks or lunges at anyone who walks by – this is a sign of inadequate socialization. If your dog will be around children, look for a dog who wants to greet passing children first. A dog who will live with children must worship little humans, not just tolerate them.

12. If you still have one or more candidates in the running, ask the shelter staff if you can put them on temporary hold while you make arrangements to return with your kids and spouse (if you have them) and trainer. You may also want to bring your current dog, if you have one, so your trainer can help with the first introduction. Shelter staff may tell you that they can’t put a dog on hold, because if someone else wants to adopt in the meantime and you don’t return for some reason, he might miss out on his best chance for a home. This is reasonable. However, they should be willing to note that you are interested on the dog’s paperwork, and give you a reasonable amount of time to return, so the dog isn’t selected for euthanasia before you can get back with your crew in tow.

When you do return, your trainer will be able to help you make an educated final decision about which of the dogs on your short list is the best choice for a long relationship with your family.

Also With This Article
Click here to view “Awesome Adoptions – Consider A Shelter Dog”
Click here to view “How to Help A Shelter Dog Find Their Home”

Taking Measures to Prevent Separation Anxiety Related Behaviors

Behavior
Separation Anxiety

Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA

June 8, 2001

[Updated October 5, 2017]

Thank goodness, I have never owned a dog with separation anxiety. This complex behavior challenge can be one of the most difficult to live with, and one of the toughest to resolve. The dog who panics when left alone may manifest a range of behaviors that the average owner finds intolerable, including serious household destruction (I’ve heard about dogs who have clawed holes through the walls of their homes, all the way through the outdoor siding), self-injury from biting or clawing at doors or walls, hysterical vocalization (nonstop whining, crying, barking, howling, and/or screaming), and inappropriate defecation and urination – on floors, carpets, beds, and owners’ possessions.

Separation anxiety (SA) stems from a dog’s natural survival instinct to stay in close proximity to the pack. In the wild, a canine who is left alone is more likely to die, either from starvation, since he has no pack to hunt with, or from attack, since he has no pack mates for mutual protection. Given the vital importance of a dog’s canine companions, it speaks volumes about their adaptability as a species that we can condition them to accept being left alone at all! We’re lucky we don’t have far more SA problems than we do, especially in today’s world, where few households have someone at home regularly during the day to keep the dog company.

Recipe for Failure

It’s not enough that dogs are naturally inclined to become anxious when left alone. Many well-intentioned but misguided owners of new dogs inadvertently set the stage for SA by doing all the wrong things when they first bring their new dog home.

For example, lots of families adopt their new dog or puppy at the beginning of the summer, when the kids will be home to spend a lot of time with him. Other new-dog parents may take several days off from work, or at least arrange to bring the dog home on a Friday afternoon so they have the entire weekend to help the new kid settle in. On its face, this is a thoughtful approach to acclimating the dog to his new life. What better way to help him feel comfortable and welcome than to give him a couple of days of your loving company?

It’s true that spending extra time with the newcomer can help smooth the transition for him, but unless you take some important precautions, you could be setting him up for a rude awakening on Monday morning when you go back to work, leaving him alone all day to wonder and worry the pack is ever coming back to rescue him from solitary confinement.

Recipe for Success

The key to SA is to never trigger it in the first place. This is without a doubt one of those behaviors where it is well worth investing in many ounces of prevention, lest you end up spending many beginning with making a wise selection of your new family member.

Dogs adopted from animal shelters seem to have a higher than average incidence of SA. We don’t know whether this is because dogs with SA are more likely to be recycled through shelters by their frustrated owners, or because the stress of shelter life triggers SA in previously unaffected dogs. It’s likely that both explanations play a significant role. This doesn’t mean that you shouldn’t adopt from a shelter. It means that you need to look for signs of potential SA whatever the source of your new dog, and especially if you adopt from a shelter or rescue group.

Dogs who seem anxious in general are more likely candidates for SA, particularly those who are worried and clingy. Velcro dogs who won’t leave your side in the get-acquainted area, even though they have just met you, can be hard to resist. “She loves me already,” you think to yourself. “How can I possibly leave her here to face the risk of euthanasia?”

Indeed, that kind of instant bond can be very endearing in the moment. It is far less so when you get home from a hard day’s work to find your sofa cushions in shreds, and dog feces and urine smeared across the kitchen, or worse, a note from your landlord informing you that elderly Mr. Jones with a heart condition who lives in the apartment next door called 11 times today to complain that someone was screaming at the top of their lungs in your living room. If you do think that’s your furry soulmate glued to your leg in the get-acquainted room, do a simple test. Place an inexpensive pillow or cushion that you have purchased at Goodwill for this very purpose on the chair or floor, and leave the dog alone in the room for 10 minutes. Wait outside, close enough that you can hear any activity. Ideally, the shelter will have a one-way window into the room, so you can watch her but she can’t see you. Now, take note of what she does.

A certain amount of activity is normal. She might explore the room, playfully chew on the pillows or other dog toys, snuffle at the door, and stand up on her hind legs to look out the window. She might even whine or bark a bit to see if anyone responds. As long as she seems relatively calm, and settles down after several minutes, you’re not looking at SA behavior, despite her instant and endearing connection to you. You will still need to take precautions not to trigger SA once you get her home, but again, that’s easier than undoing an existing condition.

If, however, she charges in a panic from one end of the room to the other, digs frantically at the door, flings herself bodily at the window, shreds the pillow into tiny pieces and proclaims her distress vocally and insistently, you are looking at a serious behavior challenge. If you choose to adopt her anyway, be prepared to enter into a long-term, potentially costly relationship with a good, positive behavior counselor and a doggie daycare facility.

Puppies are less likely to come complete with a fully developed set of SA behaviors, but again, some are more likely candidates than others. Puppies will naturally exhibit some concern at being isolated from their littermates, but the pup who happily visits with you or explores his new environment is a safer bet than the one who shows immediate distress and a single-minded determination to return to his siblings. A conscientious breeder who makes an effort to separate littermates for brief, non-traumatic periods between the ages of six to eight weeks can help set the stage for a puppy who is able to tolerate being left alone when he arrives in his new home.

Pat Miller is a freelance author and a professional dog trainer. She is also a member of the Board of Directors of the Association of Pet Dog Trainers.

A Guide to Choosing the Best Dog Trainer for You AND Your Dog

Training
Professional & Group Training

Mardi Richmond, CPDT-KA

June 8, 2001

So, you’ve decided that you and your dog need professional help. Don’t worry; all relationships can use a helping hand at one point or another. Maybe the two of you have communication issues that need to be dealt with (like your dog doesn’t listen and you wish he would!). Or maybe your bouncing bundle of fur is growing faster and bigger than expected, and you’re desperate for a constructive outlet for all that energy and enthusiasm. You’re sure that training is the answer to your problems – and you are probably right!

But how can you sort through piles of names given to you by well meaning friends, neighbors, your veterinarian, and the folks at the feed store? (We also recommend looking through the Trainer Search at the Association of Pet Dog Trainers web site, found at www.apdt.com. APDT is dedicated to building better trainers through education, promoting dog-friendly methods and encouraging their use.) Getting names is not the problem; figuring out which trainer will be just right for you and your dog is the first step in meeting your training needs. And the following five tips will help!

1. Look for a trainer who offers what you want

That may seem obvious. You want someone to help you train your dog – right? But different trainers have different skills and offer a variety of services. To really narrow down your specific needs and wants, ask yourself:

• Do I want a group class or individual training? Each has its benefits. For someone with a new puppy, a class offers essential opportunities for socialization. Plus, classes are less expensive than individual training. With individual training, however, you’re more likely to get personalized attention and have your specific needs addressed.

• Am I looking for general training or do I need help with a specific problem? If you are dealing with a behavior problem such as barking, separation anxiety or aggression, you may want to look for a trainer or behaviorist with experience in that area.

• Am I primarily looking for short-term training opportunities to help my dog become a happy member of my family, or do I have specific long-term goals such as obedience or agility competition? Some of us look for training classes because we love dog sports and hanging out with people who are as crazy about their dogs as we are.

Take Nancy Layton, for example. Layton, who lives in Aptos, California, with her mixed-breed, Dodger, and her Bearded Collie,Scout, plans to compete with both of her dogs in obedience and agility. “I was working with one trainer that I really liked, but her classes weren’t consistent enough for me,” says Layton who decided to train with a club that offered the structure she needed to prepare for competition.

2. Investigate different training methods
Trainers use a variety of techniques and methods. Most of the techniques do “work” to change behavior, but not all are gentle, kind, and humane. When choosing a trainer, it is essential to understand which training methods are both humane and effective. Positive reinforcement training, for example, works by rewarding what the dog does right. It is an effective, humane, and fun way to train. Dogs can easily (and happily) learn everything from basic manners to masters’ level agility using positive reinforcement techniques.

Positive reinforcement training is becoming more common all the time, making it easier to find good trainers who use reward-based methods. Two of the most popular positive methods are “lure and reward” and “clicker training.” Both use food as the primary reinforcement and both methods are very effective.

We would suggest that you steer away from “traditional” or military based-training methods that use choke or pinch collars. Training can be accomplished without correction-based techniques; force is not necessary to train dogs. In addition, we’d recommend that you run from any trainer that uses inhumane practices such as hitting, kicking, hanging, shocking, or any other action that can cause a dog pain or distress.

When asking a trainer about her training methods, listen carefully to her answer. As positive reinforcement training has become more popular, some trainers who teach using traditional correction-based methods have begun calling themselves “positive” trainers, too. To discover exactly how a trainer works, ask for a detailed explanation of how she would train a basic behavior such as “Sit.” In addition, ask how she would deal with problems like a dog not listening, a dog misbehaving in class, or a dog who displays aggression.

Best of all, ask to sit in on a typical beginner’s class and watch to see whether or not the trainer’s description of his methods actually matches what he practices.

3. Get a feel for the trainer’s people skills, too
A trainer is part teacher, part therapist, and part communications expert, and the right trainer will help you even more than she will help your dog. But let’s face it, most people who become dog trainers do so because they like or even love dogs, not because they are experts at working with people. So how will you know if a trainer who works well with dogs will really be able to teach you?

Again, your best bet is to go and watch a class and observe the students and their dogs. Do they appear to be relaxed and enjoying the experience? Do you understand the trainer’s explanations? Are suggestions offered to students in a way that you feel good about? Are problems handled so that all involved appear satisfied? Or do the students look puzzled or frustrated?

Most important, however, is that the trainer is able to make it clear to you what is working and what isn’t – and what specifically you can do to fix problems. This takes observation skills, communication skills, and diplomacy. Layton notes that feedback she receives must come in a way that feels supportive, not punitive. A good trainer really needs to be able to “positively reinforce” what the person does right, as well as what the dog does right.

4. Check out the trainer’s level of experience
The length of time a trainer has offered professional services doesn’t determine her ability, but it is a gauge that should contribute to your decision. Someone who has less professional training experience but good skills, for example, may be great for a basic training class. In fact, newer trainers often bring to a class enthusiasm, energy, and creativity that a trainer who has taught for a long time may have lost.

However, a less-experienced trainer may not be the best choice for a class that offers specific activities that require overall behavior knowledge and experience. Take off-leash “play time” as an example. During off-leash socialization (even with puppies), a trainer really needs to be skilled at reading canine body language, predicting interactions, and intervening appropriately when necessary. This takes specialized skills. And a trainer without extensive experience and knowledge might not be the best choice for serious problems such as aggression.

How can you assess a trainer’s experience and knowledge? Ask how long she has worked as a professional trainer and how she learned to train. If your dog has a specific behavior problem, ask if she has dealt with this problem before. Remember that a good trainer will acknowledge what she doesn’t know, as well as what she does know.

Most importantly, trust your instincts. If the trainer “feels” like a good match, she probably is. On the other hand, if you do not have full confidence in a trainer’s ability to help you and your dog, you will be less likely to follow her prescribed plan of action and less likely to have success.

5. Cost and convenience count
While it can be said that you get what you pay for, it is equally true that for most of us a training class needs to be both affordable and convenient. A single class can get you started, but many people need or want advanced training opportunities. And the simple fact is, if you can’t afford the classes, you’re not likely to stick with it!

Changing personality?
After you’ve done your research and found a trainer to help you solve your canine relationship problems, all you have to do is get busy and train, right?

Right – but stay alert to apparent “shifts” in your trainer’s training philosophy or methods. If at any time you and your dog seem to frustrate the trainer, or knock up against the limits of her abilities to solve her student’s problems in a positive fashion, you may want to consider taking a break from training and reconsider your choice.

Less experienced trainers (or those who are, deep down, less committed to positive methods) may not have learned to cope with every type of canine behavior issue or with every dog “personality” positively. While it would be ideal if the trainer was the one who recognized his inability to deal with a given situation and gave you a recommendation for another trainer, it’s fairly rare that this happens. If your trainer begins to use punitive methods, citing your dog’s extraordinary “stubbornness,” “disrespect,” or any other trait as justification for force-based methods, politely excuse yourself from the class, and look for a new trainer. Believe me, there are positive trainers who can deal your dog – no matter how rowdy – without resorting to violence.

If your own commitment to positive methods needs reinforcement, I suggest you read Don’t Shoot the Dog by Karen Pryor and Culture Clash by Jean Donaldson. Both of these internationally renowned trainers, leaders in the modern dog training field, bolster the argument for positive training by describing how dogs think and learn. Dogs can and do learn to perform specific behaviors in order to avoid punishment, of course, but they are pleasure-seekers by nature. It’s far more effective, both of the authors conclude, to inspire the dog to figure out what behaviors will result in pleasurable rewards. This not only produces a dog who is motivated to do “the right thing,” but also preserves an affectionate, trusting relationship with his handler.

With good luck, good training, and lots of hard work, you’ll soon be over the rowdy dog blues and on to a fulfilling and happy relationship with your canine pal.

Iams vs. Nutro: An Update

Food
Dog Food Information

Nancy Kerns

March 30, 2021

It’s unfortunate that The Iams Company was not given the opportunity to provide relevant background information and a scientific point of view prior to the publication of “Iams vs. Nutro: A Dog Food Labeling War,” in the May 2001 issue. Here are the facts.

For more than 50 years, the Iams Company has manufactured premium pet food, and our company mission is to enhance the well-being of dogs and cats by providing world-class quality foods.

The feeding guidelines for Iams Dog Foods are based on: (1) extensive experience making, testing, and selling our premium products; (2) the professional judgement of Iams veterinarians and research nutritionists; (3) the collective judgement of independent experts at universities throughout the U.S.; and (4) direct feedback from Iams Customer Service representatives who respond daily to consumer questions about feeding. If dogs were having problems from underfeeding of Iams products, we would be the first to know.

Veterinarians, pet owners, and statistics from across the country tell us that obesity is a serious nutritional problem for dogs, which can lead to a variety of ailments. Proper feeding management plays a key role in helping dogs maintain a healthy weight, and The Iams Company creates feeding guidelines with the dogs’ well-being in mind. These guidelines are carefully designed to help dog owners feed the right amount of food to achieve the best outcome.

Two years ago, we began updating our feeding guidelines for Eukanuba and Iams Dog Foods – lowering the amount of food we recommend dogs be fed each day. Feedback from pet owners, veterinarians, and breeders over the past two years has reinforced the fact that we made the right decision.

Why would a pet food company recommend consumers to feed less of its food? Iams made that recommendation with the health of its consumers’ pets in mind. The allegation that Iams reduced the recommended feeding quantities to lower the cost of feeding is false. The vast majority of Iams’ advertising involves building consumer awareness and brand recognition. We focus on educating pet owners about the nutritional benefits of feeding Iams and Eukanuba products. The cost or value message has never been the focus of our advertising.

While the misinformation about feeding guidelines is unfortunate, it’s not surprising given that Iams’ recent growth and success in the pet food industry has affected our competitors. Today, Iams’ is investing more in research and development, manufacturing, selling and marketing our premium quality products than ever before.

Ultimately, pets and their owners are the real winners as it relates to our feeding guidelines. We take our business very seriously and we will continue to take appropriate steps to protect our reputation as a world leader in dog and cat nutrition.

We appreciate this opportunity to set the record straight, and we encourage any pet owners who have questions about Iams and Eukanuba products to contact Iams Customer Service at (800) 863-4267.

-Daniel Carey, DVM
Director of Technical Communications Research and Development
The Iams Company, Dayton, OH

We read with great interest your article “Iams vs. Nutro.” We feel compelled to point out a few things relevant to the last sentence in your article, which states, “It seems that opportunities for corporate profits will always prevail over the needs of consumers and the health of their animals.” This may apply to Iams, but not to Nutro and other competitors who should not be painted with the same brush. Nutro’s objective was and remains to ensure that consumers are provided with accurate information with which to make informed purchasing decisions. We do not expect you to believe it simply because we say so, but ask you to consider the following:

1. When Nutro discovered and confirmed the misrepresentations being made on the Iams label and in related advertising (and confirmed the unhealthful weight loss suffered by dogs fed off the Iams label), Nutro did not seek a competitive advantage by going to the marketplace with this information. Instead, Nutro went to Iams and appealed to Iams privately to correct its statements to the benefit of consumers and their animals.

2. Kal Kan, another competitor, filed a similar lawsuit concerning Iams’ false and misleading feeding instructions.

3. A consumer class action was also filed in California seeking to vindicate harm to consumers that resulted from Iams’ false statements.

Nutro’s conduct, Kal Kan’s conduct, and the consumer class action in California all have as their central objective ensuring that consumers receive accurate information. That is far different from Iams’ conduct, which clearly evidences support for your concern that “opportunities for corporate profit will always prevail over the needs of consumers and the health of their animals.”

-Jerold I. Sicherman
President, Nutro Products, Inc.
City of Industry, CA

Interesting, isn’t it? We’ll keep readers posted on developments in this conflict.

Download the Full June 2001 Issue

Full Issue PDF

Nancy Kerns

January 8, 2020

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Dog Parks Help Socialize and Exercise Dogs in a Safe Environment

Care
Environmental Hazards
Socialization

Nancy Kerns

March 30, 2021

Summer is upon us, and with it comes an irresistible urge to enjoy the great outdoors with our best canine friends. It’s good for them, fun for us, and besides, trainers and behavior counselors are forever reminding us that a tired dog is a well-behaved dog.

But where can we go to take our dogs out for a high-energy, off-leash run? Regular walks on leash don’t even come close to addressing the exercise needs of most dogs. The result is an exacerbation of canine behavior problems including aggression due to lack of socialization, to destructive behavior, hyperactivity, and separation anxiety.

The best solution to the “place to run” dilemma is the dog park. More and more, savvy community leaders are building fenced areas where dogs and their owners are encouraged to run, play, and socialize together. The concept has caught on and is spreading.

If you are fortunate enough to live in one of the communities that boasts a dog park you may have already availed yourself of its benefits and discovered the joys that such parks have to offer. If you just haven’t checked out the park yet, or don’t go very often due to problems you’ve had with your dog there in the past, see “A Walk in the (Dog) Park.”

But if your town lacks a dog park, read on! You could be an integral part of a movement that improves the quality of life for all your city’s dogs – and their neighbors!

Many benefits
Twenty years ago dog parks were a rarity, but today there are hundreds of safe, dog-centered places for recreation, and that’s a good thing! Here are just a few of the ways that a well-designed dog park can benefit the people in a given community:

• Time spent in a dog park helps socialize and exercise dogs in a safe environment, resulting in well-adjusted companion dogs with fewer behavior problems. This can thereby reduce the number of “nuisance dog” complaints sparked by bored, restless dogs who bark, as well as reduce the number of dogs surrendered by their owners to local animal shelters (with a corresponding reduction in euthanasia numbers).

• The availability of a safe, pleasant dog park attracts dog owners to that site, reducing the presence of dogs in multiple-use areas, and preventing off-leash dogs from infringing on the rights of other community residents and park users, such as joggers, small children, and those who may be fearful of dogs.

• Dog parks can provide an accessible place for elderly and disabled owners to exercise and enjoy their canine companions.

• Use of dog parks promotes responsible pet ownership by giving people the opportunity to allow their dogs to run off-leash legally.

• Informal meetings between people with shared interests – dogs! – are ideal for educating owners about responsible dog care and training.

Dog park detractors
But it’s a fact of life in America that no good idea goes uncritiqued. While dog park supporters seem to be outnumbering their detractors, many criticisms (some valid, some ridiculous) have been used to try to torpedo dog park projects in some communities. These include:

• Dog parks can mean dogfights, resulting in injury to dogs or people

• A dog park will result in accumulations of dog waste and human litter

• Loose dogs are a threat to wildlife living in the park area

Fortunately, the majority of these concerns (and most others you can think of) can be alleviated if a dog park is carefully planned and executed. The very fact that dog parks have been in operation for years in so many communities can help proponents of new projects.

While the dog park pioneers had to figure out what works and what doesn’t by (costly) trial and error, there is now very good information about the best ways to design, build, and manage facilities. If organizers in your town draw on the best examples of successful parks, they can build a new park that will minimize any negative impact on the community and maximize the safety and enjoyment of all who use it.

Overcoming objections
Today, many successful public dog parks are maintained under the auspices of a “user group” – dog owners who frequent the park regularly, educate new users, and help enforce park rules. These user groups can be a valuable resource for educating both the park visitors as well as civic leaders who may have concerns.

For example, the presence of an active user group significantly reduces the risk of one concern expressed by many: dogfights. User group members will step in and encourage (or demand) leashes on or the removal of aggressive or out-of-control dogs. They also help novice dog owners learn how to read their dogs’ body language and intervene appropriately when a conflict seems imminent. (While it can be difficult to “sell” a balky city council on the added expense, it is very helpful to plan the park with two or three separate enclosures. Conflict between large and small and/or bold and timid dogs can be vastly reduced if at least one area is designated specifically for the little and/or shy guys.)

A user group can also ensure that the “accumulations of waste” issue never piles up. Peer pressure is the best insurance against waste disposal problems. If the culture of the park users is such that they consistently clean up their own dogs’ waste (and the occasional unclaimed pile), it will become obvious that they don’t tolerate irresponsible owners who don’t scoop poop.

In fact, the dog park culture can serve an important educational function and public service by teaching unaware dog owners about the importance of cleaning up after their dogs everywhere, not just at the park. Park users can also be instrumental in educating newcomers about disease and parasite prevention and control.

Members of the user group can also help determine what rules will guide the behavior of park visitors, human and canine. Well-run dog parks have clear rules prominently posted at all park entrances.

Rewarding activism
Don’t panic if all of this sounds like a daunting task; you will be amazed at how many like-minded dog lovers there are in your community who would be more than happy to help get a local park built. You won’t have to sell dog owners on the park’s benefits!

However, when dealing with people who have little experience with dogs, be prepared to explain, over and over, how such a park will benefit the humans who happen to own dogs – as well as their neighbors! City leaders may never enjoy the vision of well-socialized dogs playing and running off-leash the way we do, but they should be able to appreciate how much quieter the evenings are, as the tired, happy dogs of your community snore peacefully through the night!

Also With This Article
Click here to view “How To Raise A Well Socialized Dog”

-By Pat Miller

Pat Miller is a freelance author and a professional dog trainer in Fairplay, Maryland. She is also a member of the Board of Directors of the Association of Pet Dog Trainers.

Comparing the Best Raw Dog Food Diet Plans

Food
Raw & Home-Prepared

Nancy Kerns

March 30, 2021

Have you ever noticed that dog owners tend to select one expert to follow in the area of nutrition and another for training? And they’ll often adhere to their personal guru’s program no matter what? Is it our unconscious dog-like loyalty, or what?

Many of our readers are already preparing their dogs’ food themselves, and generally, they are following the guidelines of some canine nutrition expert. We hear three names a lot – Dr. Ian Billinghurst, Kymythy Schultze, and Wendy Volhard are mentioned most frequently – and they are often being compared to the others.

However, many more of our readers have not yet sorted out the differences between the raw diets being promoted today. To help the readers who fit this description understand the differences between the leading raw food gurus, we present (via the links below) our own objective comparisons of the competing diet plans.

Interestingly, each of the three experts we spoke to had different foods on their lists of desirable ingredients and inappropriate ingredients – despite the fact that each characterizes their nutritional plans as recreations of a dog’s “evolutionary diet.” In other words, their ideals and goals are the same, but the routes they take to there are quite divergent.

Also very dissimilar are the personal styles with which our three experts approach the task of feeding dogs for optimal health. This should come as no surprise; each of these knowledgable people have strong personalities – necessary, perhaps, for buck-ing the commercial dog food establishment! Interestingly, their personalities are reflected in their diets, and their diets, in turn, tend to attract dog owners with similar personalities.

For these reasons, we couldn’t begin to rank these diet plans; it wouldn’t make any sense for us to tell you which one we think is “best” for your dog. In our opinion, based on our research and observations, each of the experts we interviewed has a viable and valuable plan for improving the health of your dog. But you are the person who has to plan ahead, purchase, prepare, and serve the foods to your dog; you have to approach the task with confidence, and take responsibility for the results. Choose the approach that makes the most sense and feels best to you.

Even more to choose from
Please note that there are dozens more raw feeding proponents who promote different “natural” diets for dogs, several of whom have also published books and articles and who frequently lecture on the subject. For this article, we decided to focus on the three people whose names we hear most frequently from our readers. We will examine some of the other leading experts in the field of raw diets for dogs in future issues.

For more information about the raw feeding experts discussed in the above article, refer to their books – each of which is available through DogWise (800-776-2665 or www.dogwise.com) – or the expert’s personal web pages:

Dr. Ian Billinghurst: www.drianbillinghurst.com.

Kymythy Schultze: http://home.earthlink.net/~affenbar/.

Wendy Volhard: www.volhard.com.

-By Nancy Kern

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Whole Dog Journal reviews dog food, dog toys, and dog health and care products, and also teaches positive dog training methods.

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Feeding clean greens

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Recipe for Success

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