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Best Dog Raincoats
It was pouring down rain in Paris late last September and the coat we had brought for Sparkles, while warm, wasn’t waterproof. So we put her in her stroller, zipped up the cover, and trudged off to Michette, a pet supply store about half a mile away. It carried dozens of dog raincoats in all styles and colors. Sparkles waited patiently as we tried them on her, looking for one that fit and wasn’t too difficult to put on.
How Often Should I Take My Dog to the Vet?
Even if your dog appears healthy, routine vet visits are essential for early detection of health issues, disease prevention, and maintaining a high quality of life. Many pet owners wait until their dog shows signs of illness before scheduling an appointment, but by then health issues may have progressed to a point where they are both more complicated and more expensive to treat.
Average Cost of a Vet Visit for a Dog
The cost of veterinary care varies significantly depending on your location and your dog’s specific needs. On average, a wellness exam costs between $70 and $150, though it may be higher in urban areas or for specialty clinics. Vaccines typically cost around $15 to $100 each, depending on the vaccination itself, often plus an office-visit charge.
Basic bloodwork panels can cost between $80 and $200, depending on how comprehensive the testing is. Additional services, such as fecal exams, urinalysis, or heartworm and Lyme testing will add to the cost of the visit. Pet insurance or wellness plans offered by some veterinary practices can help offset these expenses and make preventative care more affordable.
How Much Is a Vet Visit without Insurance?
The cost of a vet visit without is the same as the cost of a vet visit with insurance. That’s because, for most pet insurance policies, you must pay the veterinarian at the time of service and then submit a claim to your insurance for reimbursement. Some plans do offer forms of direct pay to the veterinarian, but they each have their own system. And, for basically all of them, your veterinarian must be willing to accept this method of payment.
An Annual Vet Visit Is the Minimum
For most adult dogs, a vet visit once a year is the general guideline, and even if you think your dog is well, it’s important for your dog to see your veterinarian once a year to remain an active client.
An annual wellness check typically includes a physical exam, vaccinations, and possibly screening tests, such as bloodwork, depending on the dog’s age, breed, medical history, and lifestyle. During a physical exam, the vet will check your dog’s heart, lungs, ears, eyes, teeth, and overall body condition. They may ask you about your dog’s behavior, diet, and activity level to assess any subtle changes that could indicate an underlying problem. Vaccinations, such as rabies, distemper, and Bordetella, are often updated at these appointments as well.
Bloodwork, which is often recommended for dogs annually, especially as they age, typically includes a complete blood count (CBC) and a chemistry panel to evaluate organ function. Bloodwork can uncover infections, anemia, diabetes, liver and kidney problems, and more. While not always necessary at every visit, annual or bi-annual bloodwork gives your vet a baseline to detect changes, which can be early signs of disease.
Puppy Veterinary Visits
Puppies require more frequent vet visits, usually every three to four weeks until the puppy is around 16 weeks old. These early visits are focus on vaccination series, deworming, parasite prevention, and monitoring growth and development. After the first year, most dogs transition to the once-a-year schedule, but some dogs, particularly those with chronic health issues, senior dogs, or dogs on long-term medications, may need checkups every three to six months.
Even if your dog seems perfectly healthy, regular vet visits allow for early detection of diseases that may not yet show symptoms. Conditions like kidney disease, thyroid imbalances, dental disease, arthritis, and certain cancers can be identified through physical exams, bloodwork, and urinalysis before your dog begins to act sick. Catching these issues early often leads to better outcomes for your pet and can significantly extend their life. Additionally, routine checkups allow your vet to keep your dog up to date on flea, tick, and heartworm preventatives, which are critical for long-term health and comfort.
Vet visits are not for just when your dog is sick, they are an essential part of preventative care that can help detect problems early, maintain your pet’s health, and ensure a longer, happier life. While the costs of routine veterinary care can add up, they are often far less than the expense associated with treating advanced illnesses, making regular vet visits a wise and compassionate investment.
Best Slicker Brushes for Dogs
If you have a medium- or long-coated dog with silky to floofy fur or a curly-coated dog like a Poodle or a Doodle, a slicker brush should be part of your grooming box. In this article, we’re going to explain what a slicker brush can do, the finer points of using a slicker brush, and how to choose the best slicker brush.
What Is a Slicker Dog Brush?
A slicker brush has a handle and a wide head, which has flexible, bendable pins of differing lengths. Slicker brushes are great for shedding. While they are designed for general grooming, good slicker brushes also remove and/or prevent mats in the coats. Slicker dog brushes are especially great for removing debris, burrs, and other plant matter that seem to grab onto these kinds of coats when the dog is out and about enjoying sniffaris.
How to Use a Dog Slicker Brush
Dog slicker brushes are used like brushes but with a lighter touch. Some are a bit firmer than others, with cause, depending on the goal. For instance, dogs with thicker coats might require a firmer brush, while a dog with softer hair will do well with a softer slicker brush. With such an abundance of sizes and styles out there from small to large, wide base to small base—even self-cleaning with some brands—we collected five slicker brushes for dogs that we think are the most popular and compared them.
How to Pick a Good Dog Slicker Brush
The best slicker brush depends upon your dog first and then your preferences.
Self-cleaning slicker brushes: These have a much thicker visual base than regular slickers. This may be a concern if that visual might cause some anxiety in your dog. Just be aware your dog may take longer to get used to using a self-cleaning slicker brush. Slicker brushes need to be cleaned periodically while grooming as they fill with fur. A self-cleaner basically retracts the pins and you brush away the fur. The regular brushes require you to pull the hair out, much as you do your own hairbrush.
Pin length and bends: The length and flexibility, or softness, of the pins will concern your dog. A thick-coated dog like a Collie, Sheltie, or Australian Shepherd will require longer pins to get deeper into the coat. A Papillon, a long-haired, single-coated, breed requires softer flexible pins.
Types and shapes of handles: These matter for the human’s comfort when using the brush. A slimmer ergonomic handle is usually the most comfortable option, but your hand size will determine comfort for you. Most slicker brush handles have a rubbery, comfortable feel.
How We Selected Our Favorite Slicker Brush
We chose what we determined to be the five most popular slicker brushes available, based on recommendations from dog competitors, dog trainers, and regular dog parents.
We then compared each brush’s ease of use as well as how heavy each felt in our hand. We evaluated how comfortable each was to hold while in use.
The visual of the brush head with how the dog would see it was an important factor for us. A larger visual can mean a more anxious dog, depending on that dog’s level of anxiety with this process.
And, of course, of primary importance was how comfortable the dog felt when being brushed with each brush, using a solid knowledge of dog body language to determine how the dogs reacted to each brush.
Finally, we compared the ease of cleaning of each brush.
The Best Slicker Brushes for Dogs
| Rating | Product and Manufacturer | Price | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
 | Chris Christianson Big K Slicker Brush | $59.90 | Well-designed, comfortable for dog and handler, and did a great job. A top-quality brush, although the price may give you pause. Our top choice. |
 | Hertzko Flexible Slicker Brush | $12.99 | This brush isn’t perfect. We’d like a more comfortable handle, but our dogs liked it and you’re getting a lot for the money here. Our best buy choice. |
| Swithawk Self Cleaning Slicker Brush | $19.98 | A bit heavy and maybe too large for smaller hands, but the handle felt soft. It has a self-cleaning feature that we loved, and it gives you color choices. It’s worth considering. |
| iToleeve Dog Brush & Slicker Brush | $20.99 | This brush comes with a flea/tick comb. It felt light in our hands, especially for a dual-sided brush. The pins were bendable, and it cleaned nicely. But both our dogs and us preferred other brushes. |
| Coastal Pet Safari Curved Firm Slicker Brush | $10.49 | The least expensive brush in our comparison and advertised as firm. Too firm for us, unfortunately. |
Here’s what we found:
Best Overall Dog Slicker Brush: Chris Christianson Big K slicker brush:
4 Paws
The Chris Christianson slicker brush was a dream to use, pulling out those tiny clinging burrs that fall weather in the Northeast brings in abundance, and leaving the coat looking great.
The Big K was a dream for dense long-haired coats. We found it to be the best dog brush for shedding and debris removal for this type of coated dog. It very gently but thoroughly pulls out the undercoat with barely any pressure on the dog in question.
The handle is comfortable and ergonomically designed. It’s one of the more expensive slicker brushes on the market, but it’s worth the price. Retails for $59.50. Our top choice.
Chris Christianson Big K Slicker Brush
Best Budget Dog Slicker Brush: Hertzko Flexible Slicker Brush
3 1/2 paws
This brush has a wide brush head that we liked. It’s a little heavier than most other slicker brushes, probably due to its metal backing to the brush head. We found the pins area was a bit longer and better curved than the self-cleaning brush options. The handle is comfortable but not as ergonomically designed as the Chris Christianson. One dog who was not a big fan of slicker brushes in general, retreated from all the brushes except this one and the Chris Christenson. That said, most dogs can be conditioned to tolerate and even enjoy being brushed with an appropriate brush at the most appropriate pressure for that dog.
This brush was a bit more difficult to clean than the others in this comparison, probably due to the wider brush base, but it was really no more than most slicker brushes that didn’t make the initial cut. At $12.99, it’s a great deal for both price and function, and we’re going to call it our best buy.
Hertzko Flexible Slicker Brush
Best Self Cleaning Dog Slicker Brush: Swihawk Self Cleaning Slicker Brush:
3 paws
The Swihawk brush has a larger presence than many slicker dog brushes due to the self-cleaning feature. That means that the end piece that has the enclosed brush in it is thicker than those that are not self-cleaning. Because of that larger presence and the self-cleaning feature, it is also heavier than most, even the Hertzko one with the metal base for the pins. It also has a thicker handle, which may not be ideal for smaller-handed groomers. However, it is curved and feels soft in the hand.
The self-cleaning feature is superb and oh so easy to use. You can remove all the fur that you just brushed out pretty much in an instant with this brush. The pins in this brush are shorter than others in the comparison and less curved, which may be issue for some dogs, especially if your dog’s fur is longer than the pins! For a shorter or perhaps silkier-coated, this would work great. Overall, the self-cleaning option is very attractive. It also comes I color choices, if that matters to you. Priced at $19.98, this brush is worth considering.
Swihawk Self Cleaning Slicker Brush
Best Slicker Brush for Dense Coats: iToleeve Dog Brush & Slicker Brush
3 paws
This is a dual-headed and dual-sided brush. One side has straight pins, and the other side has curved pins of a nice length. It’s promoted as being a gentler option for more sensitive dogs, but our test dogs didn’t seem to agree. It seemed to pull on the fur a bit more than the other options, aside from the Safari. The brush does not have a large presence, the handle is quite comfortable and grippy, and the brush feels very light. It is very flexible and does seem to bend into the brushing again as advertised. It was easy to clean probably because of that dual head on each side. For denser coats, like German Shepherds have, it seemed to work great. It comes with a coordinating flea and tick comb for $20.99.
iToleeve Dog Brush & Slicker Brush
We Also Tested: Coastal Pet Safari Curved Firm Slicker Brush
2 paws
As the name indicates, this brush is firm. It has a small presence with its compact head. The handle was comfortable, albeit a bit shorter than the others. The pins are reasonable long and perfectly curved. The instructions for use for each type of dog coat that this brush may work for are very detailed, which is super helpful. The manufacturer does suggest using a light touch with longer flowing coats. We agree. This brush is the least expensive choice, retailing for $10.49, but we shy away from it due to its firm pins.
Coastal Pet Safari Curved Firm Slicker Brush
The most important take away here is to make sure that you read the details on which type of coat that each slicker dog brush is meant to be used for and what they do best. This will help you choose the right one for your own dog and help you maintain that glossy coat we all love. And if you’ve never used one on your dog before, take it slow and let the dog get used to the feel of the slicker brush. Happy grooming!
Do Allergy Shots Offer Lasting Relief for Dogs?
The sight of your dog constantly scratching, licking, or chewing is a familiar and distressing one. Allergic reactions in dogs, often described as itchy skin (or more technically atopic dermatitis), can significantly impact their quality of life.
Fortunately, veterinary research has made great strides, offering a range of effective dog allergy medicine that go beyond simply managing symptoms and now include immunotherapy (e.g., allergy shots), specialized medications like Apoquel and Cytopoint.
Symptoms of Dog Allergies
The most common allergic symptom is itchy skin, but symptoms can also affect the digestive system, resulting in vomiting and diarrhea.
Allergies That Affect Dogs
The three most common allergies in dogs are:
- Flea allergy, which occurs as a reaction to flea saliva, is considered the most common allergy affecting dogs,” according to the University of Illinois Veterinary Teaching Hospital, though that varies based on geography. “For example, fleas do not survive well in the Southwest. Environmental allergies are more common there.”
Dogs with flea-allergy dermatitis can get very itchy from only a couple of flea bites. The most affected areas are usually around the base of the tail. If you think your dog may be suffering from flea allergies, check for fleas and flea dirt on your dog and home.
- Environment: Like you, your dog can be allergic to environmental factors. As the term implies, environmental dog allergies stem from something in your dog’s surroundings. These could be airborne substances in your home, backyard, or wherever else your dog hangs out and include pollen, dust mites, mold, and grasses.
These allergies are often triggered by inhaled allergens like dust, mold, pollen, or other plant or animal particles. The allergens can also be absorbed through the skin, leading to a condition called atopic dermatitis, characterized by itchy and inflamed skin
- Food allergies, which are the least common, occur when a dog’s immune system overreacts to certain ingredients in their diet. Food allergies can occur even if your dog has eaten the offending food many times before. Note that there’s a difference between food allergies and food sensitivities.
True dog allergies are an immune system reaction to foods the body thinks are harmful, often protein. So, the immune system creates antibodies that trigger allergic reactions. These could show up as wheezing, skin eruptions, itching or swelling. But true food allergies are rare, and experts estimate they affect less than 10% of dogs who experience food reactions.
Signs of food allergies in dogs, according to Medvet, a network of veterinary emergency and specialty hospitals, include “persistent itching, licking, or chewing different areas of their body, getting secondary yeast or bacterial skin or ear infections, or repeated gastrointestinal signs like vomiting, diarrhea, or excessive gas.”
Allergy Shots for Dogs
“Allergy shots [or immunotherapy] are the best long-term treatments for controlling environmental allergies in dogs,” says Dr Aimee Warner, a veterinary surgeon at Medivet.
They do this by slowly desensitizing the immune system, gradually training it not to overreact to the offending allergens such as pollen, mold, or dust mites, Dr. Warner says.
“It is highly individualized, based on allergy testing, and can really cut down on symptoms in the long run. While a commitment, many dogs see drastically improved quality of life without resorting to constant medication,” says Dr. Warner
Dog Allergy Medication Options: Cytopoint vs. Apoquel
Several drugs are often used to manage allergic symptoms in dogs, including antihistamines and corticosteroids, according to Warner. “However, the best options in cases of moderate to severe allergies are usually Apoquel and Cytopoint. Both drugs target the itch-scratch cycle in a different way and help suppress inflammation. While over-the-counter antihistamines like Benadryl may have some weak effect, they are usually ineffective in severe cases of allergies.”
Cytopoint is an injectable monoclonal antibody that, Warner says, inhibits a protein that causes itch in dogs. It acts in 24 hours and lasts four to eight weeks per injection. “The best thing about Cytopoint is how targeted and safe it is — it’s not an immunosuppressant, so it’s ideal for dogs that cannot handle other medication. It’s particularly effective in dogs with chronic allergic dermatitis.”
Like Cytopoint, Apoquel is a first-line treatment for allergic itch, but these medications are not interchangeable. It inhibits specific pathways (JAK enzymes) involved in itch and inflammation to dampen the immune system, with quick relief that is typically seen within hours. Cytopoint injections are given monthly and target a particular itch-inducing protein.
“I tend to prescribe Cytopoint for younger dogs or dogs with chronic allergy management requirements, while Apoquel might be better for short-term relief or when injections are not possible. Some dogs even do well with a combination strategy, depending on the response,” Warner says.
Immunotherapy For Dog Allergies
While allergy shots offer hope for dogs plagued by allergies, they aren’t perfect solutions for every dog or dog owner. According to leading veterinary dermatologists and research from veterinarian schools at institutions like Cornell University, and the University of Wisconsin here are three things to consider:
- It can take six to 12 months to see the full benefits, and initial injection frequencies can be high before moving to maintenance (typically about every four weeks).
- Many dogs require lifelong maintenance injections to sustain the benefits.
- Initial testing and treatment can be an investment, though it may be more cost-effective long-term by reducing reliance on symptomatic medications.
For a Tailored Approach to Allergy Relief Partner With Your Veterinarian
Managing dog allergies requires a partnership between you and your veterinarian. Whether through the long-term, disease-modifying approach of immunotherapy, or the effective symptomatic relief offered by medications like Apoquel and Cytopoint, the goal remains the same: to alleviate your dog’s discomfort and restore their quality of life.
A thorough veterinary examination and discussion of your dog’s specific needs, lifestyle, and your preferences will help determine the most appropriate and effective treatment plan.
Developing a Dog Exercise Routine
Keeping your dog well-exercised has a variety of benefits. Not only will you keep them at a healthy weight and their muscles limber, you can also use exercise as a way to bond with your dog and provide them with mental enrichment.
Before you begin an exercise routine with your dog, there’s a lot to know. We chatted with canine physical therapist Dr. Courtney Wheeler, PT, CCRT, from Walking Paws Rehab in Boulder, Colorado, and canine conditioning coach, Kirsten Belinsky, CPDT-KA, CSCC, from Canine Athletics Training Center in Longmont, Colorado about all things dog exercise.
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Click Here to Sign In | Forgot your password? | Activate Web AccessHow to Train Your Dog to a Dog Whistle
Dogs can learn to respond to all sorts of sounds and cues, but among the most effective for a solid recall, or “come,” is a whistle. While you don’t need a special dog training whistle—and we don’t think there is a “best dog whistle”—you should consider a fixed-pitch whistle, such as the Acme 211.5 whistle, because consistency is important in training.
In this article, we are going to explain how to use a dog whistle to teach a recall. We’re not going to discuss using a dog whistle to stop barking. We want a whistle to be a positive cue to do something, not stop doing something.
Why Train Your Dog to a Whistle
A dog whistle can get your dog’s attention better than your voice, especially because voices can reflect emotion, like panic, excitement, or even anger. A whistle is consistent.
Before we start, the benefits of training your dog to come to a whistle include:
- If your dog is starting to lose his hearing, the whistle will often still be heard even when he can no longer hear your voice
- If you have inadvertently poisoned your “Come” cue, the whistle is a great alternative
- If the dog gets lost, the whistle sound travels much farther than a verbal recall
- The whistle can be heard over nature’s sounds even the surf, thunder, rain, etc., and even manmade sounds like a generator or loud trucks
- The whistle is never annoyed, angry, scared, or panicked—it sounds the same every time
The relationship between you and your dog must be in place first before working on the whistle. Start by dropping any negativity. Stop all physical and verbal punishments, including the word “No.” Why? “No” easily escalates into a screamed “No!” dredging up negative emotion, which is then transmitted to the dog.
Before we discuss the actual whistle, we need to have a few things in place first:
- Eye contact
- Name response
- A verbal recall cue
If you’ve poisoned your dog’s name or verbal come cue—meaning those words mean nothing to your dog because you have used them inconsistently—now is the time to change them.
Grab a clicker, have a handful of small high-value treats. Click once and hand the dog a treat (within a half second). Repeat for two solid minutes. You should never need to do this step again.
In the same session, grab another handful of treats, put your food hand behind your back and wait. Pretty much 99% of dogs will look up at your face and ask, “Why did you stop?”
- The instant he looks at you, click and treat (C/T) and don’t say anything. Repeat for two to three minutes, two to three times per day. You can’t train a dog to do anything if they aren’t willingly looking at you.
- Next up is name response. Same session: When dog looks at your face, say his name, C/T. Do not say anything to get him to look at you. Just silently wait.
- Same session, adding in a verbal recall. Without moving, when dog looks at you, say his name, take a short breath, and then your come cue, then C/
- Why no movement? We discuss that below.
Practice the C/T Response
Practice items 1-2-3 two to three times per day, two to three minutes at a time in as many locations as you can (on leash if not in a fenced in area). Dogs don’t generalize. What they learn in the kitchen stays there. Start with quiet places and then gradually go to busier places with slightly more distractions. Still just eye contact, then eye contact plus the dog’s name, then eye contact plus the dog’s name plus “come.” Don’t skimp on these steps. If your dog has a history of ignoring you, we need to change that now. And, don’t forget to breathe.
- Add this to items 1-2-3. Same session. Now we’ll start to create a Conditioned Response (CR) to the whistle, so that the dog won’t hesitate to respond.
Three times per day for about two to three minutes per session, for 14 days, you will “prime” the whistle in this pattern. Two short toots and one really long toot and hand your dog a treat within a half second.
You aren’t asking the dog to move. He just hears the sound and gets a treat. I don’t want you or your dog to move. We are doing what’s called “back-chaining,” where you train the last piece of a behavior first. What is the last piece of any recall? The dog will be right in front of you, so they learn that the position and sound pay off quickly.
Practice in as many locations as you can, gradually going to areas with more distractions. Still, don’t ask the dog to move. Don’t cheat! We must build up a foundation first.
Once in a while, I’ll get a dog who is afraid of the whistle. If you do one toot and he hits the dirt in abject fear, do NOT try it again. Test your dog with a squeaker from a toy. If your dog is OK with that, then just use the squeaker as your “whistle.”
Now Let’s Get Moving
You’ve been working on eye contact (attention), name response, come response and priming the whistle, for at least 14 days. Now it’s time to start moving!
Game #1: Drop the Treat and Run
- Drop a cookie. Make sure dog sees it! If a dark substrate, use white cheese or chicken. If a light substrate, use a darker treat.
- Tell dog to “Get It.”
- Run away fast! Keep looking back to your dog. If you don’t look back, you won’t know when to whistle him in. The instant he starts to chase you, stop, turn and face him.
- As he’s coming, say his name, take a short breath, then say “Come” or whistle without saying his name. You’re pairing the word or sound with the behavior.
Don’t use a verbal cue and a whistle at the same time. Rotate it between the verbal or the whistle. Keep it to one or the other in each session. Reward with a huge jackpot. What’s a jackpot? It’s not two or three treats! I use 10 to 20 treats, sized appropriately for the dog. Feed one treat at a time. We’re building up a reinforcement history here, so you MUST be generous, each and every time, because a recall is THE most important behavior you can teach your dog. You may also add in tons of praise, petting and play.
What we’re doing here is to get the dog to move away from you, so you can get a head start, to then chase you (dogs love to chase) and then “name” the behavior AS it’s happening.
At NO point should you whistle your dog in if he isn’t already on his way.
You’ll play this game for an entire week, starting in a low distraction location and gradually building up to higher distractions. If you’re in a fenced area, you won’t need a leash. If no fence, use a 30-foot long line.
Game #2: Toss the Treat Farther and Don’t Run
We need to start fading out the running part of game #1, so for this step, you’ll toss the treat much farther, which means at least 20 feet away (be sure to use a much bigger white treat for this so the dog can find it in the grass) and don’t run.
Because you’ve practiced game #1 for a solid week, he will have learned the pattern: Grab the treat and race back to you! This should be easy for him. As he’s on his way back, do your whistle pattern and heavily jackpot, with food, petting, praise and play.
Practice this game for a solid week, again, starting with low distractions, gradually adding in other distractions. If you’re in a fenced area, you won’t need a leash. If no fence, use a 30-foot long line.
At NO point should you whistle your dog in if he isn’t already on his way.
Game #3: Let the Dog Get Slightly Distracted Game
Now we need to fade out not only the running away, but also the cookie toss. If you don’t, the dog won’t come unless you throw the treat and/or run away. Not conducive to the real world.
We start in a low-distraction area. Stand still and be boring. Don’t look at your dog. You can even pretend to talk on your phone. Keep your peripheral vision on him though. When he is about five to six feet away, do one toot and if he responds by turning toward you, finish up the pattern (two short toots and one really long toot) and then jackpot with tons of food, petting, praise, and play.
Practice this for a few reps and then let him go farther away before you do the one toot and then finish up the complete whistle pattern. If you’re in a fenced area, you won’t need a leash. If no fence, use a 30-foot long line.
Gradually let him get increasingly distracted, but don’t go from six feet to 20 feet. That’s setting him up to fail.
Work on these three games for a week each and check in for more steps!
Putting Dog Whistle Recalls to the Test
At this point, your dog should be responding beautifully to his name, and appropriately to the whistle in low to medium environments. I’ll bet you can’t get rid of him!
Now we’re going to increase the scenarios.
Go for a Walk – Part One
Take your dog for a walk either off leash (in a safe area) or on a 30-foot long line. When (not before) he checks in (looks back to you), do your whistle pattern (two short toots and one really long toot) and heavily reinforce with a jackpot of treats, petting, praise and play. The verbally release the dog to go be a dog. Repeat this as many times as it takes for your dog to be checking in every 30 to 60 seconds.
Go for a Walk – Part two
Start to whistle BEFORE they check in. There is a real knack for recognizing what is a good time and what is a bad time to try this. Be attentive to potentially high distractions, so as not to attempt the recall when dog might be in conflict. Set up for success!
If you’re not 100% positive he’ll respond, do a “questioning” toot and if he responds, finish up with the pattern. If he doesn’t start to come toward you, do NOT try it again at that moment. Wait, watch for perhaps less sniffing and try it again. When he does look to you, finish up your whistle pattern.
Troubleshooting: What if the dog still doesn’t respond to the whistle? At this point, they should. However, if they don’t, don’t repeat the whistle. Just wait and judge a better time to whistle them in. If you’re working with a dog who ignores it a second time, just review the “whistle them in when they’re looking at you.”
The Liar’s Game
“Come with distractions” is probably the most important behavior you will teach a dog. There are many different games we can use to teach this essential behavior. This game teaches the dog that YOU are always a “sure bet” and everyone else in the world is a liar:
- Toss the treat far. Your “liar” will stand in the middle of the yard with some food or toy. The liar has something of relatively low value to the dog. We want to set him up for success!
- Handler runs across the room or yard.
- Call (verbally to start) dog to come.
- The liar tries to (minor – don’t go full bore on this yet) distract the dog. The liar does NOT let the dog have any goodies or give eye contact.
- Do NOT repeat your cue. Just wait.
- When dog looks at you, whistle him in and treat with a huge jackpot.
- Repeat until the dog is actively avoiding the liar.
Then, as always, gradually increase the distraction and you should get to the point pretty quickly that you can just whistle the dog in without saying his name first.
Increase the value of the objects that the liar has, making sure that YOUR jackpots rise in value also. Add some additional liars and have a few people trying to distract the dog away from his mission of coming to you. Note: Do not use family members as liars.
Hide-and-Seek
Take your dog for a walk on a long line (or off leash in a safe area) and when he isn’t looking at you, hide behind a bush or tree but make sure you can still see him. Say his name once (so he can orient to you) and when he comes running back, whistle him in. BIG party! Food, petting, praise, treats.
Once there is no hesitation, instead of saying his name, just whistle him in.
Keep It Green
As with everything in life, you will need to periodically “prime” the whistle and play some of the games, otherwise your dog may get rusty and not respond as he once did.
What Does Catnip Do to Dogs?
Dogs can have catnip, It’s not likely to do any harm. But, does catnip work on dogs like it does cats? Not really. Catnip seems to have a mild sedative effect on a few dogs, but I wouldn’t recommend it to calm a dog on the 4th of July!
If you decide to expose your dog to catnip, try a small amount of dried crushed plant or fresh crushed leaves. Sprinkling catnip over a snuffle mat would limit any eating and give a low-dose exposure.
I ran a simple experiment with my four dogs. The two female Belgian Tervuren showed no interest in catnip. They aren’t especially interested in cats either. The male Belgian Tervuren and the male Cirneco dell Etna were both interested. They each took the catnip toy when offered and walked off with it. The Terv sniffed and licked it. Sort of his typical toy reaction. The Cirneco sniffed, licked, and rolled on it, but less intensely than my cats do. I did not see any sedating effects.
Is Catnip Bad for Dogs?
Honestly, if your dog shows a lot of interest in your cat’s catnip toys, it is best to keep them away from him. Chewing and swallowing part of the toy could cause an intestinal obstruction.
Interacting with a catnip filled toy is, of course, different from eating either dried or fresh catnip. I do have some growing around my yard. None of my dogs have ever shown any interest in the plants themselves (other than the boys marking, but they are comfortable marking virtually any plant).
What Is Catnip?
Catnip is a member of the mint family of plants. Cat reactions vary with individual cats. One cat may act goofy, another cat may act irritable, and a third cat may just mellow out. Nepetalactone is the active ingredient in catnip, and many cats (50% to 80%) are genetically predisposed to react to this. For a cat, this mimics pheromones similar to a cat in heat.
Catnip leaves do have some vitamin A, magnesium, and vitamin E but in small amounts, so it is not a valid nutritional supplement. Some dogs will have mild gastrointestinal upsets if they ingest a bunch of the plant.
Catnip and other varieties of mint can grow wild and will spread rapidly, so be aware of that if you plan to grow some for your cat. It can also attract stray cats to your yard.
The bottom line is that catnip is unlikely to cause your dog any harm, but it is unlikely to cause much of any behavioral reaction either.
Knuckling in Dogs
Knuckling in dogs is a condition where a dog walks or stands on the top of their paws instead of placing them on the ground properly, on their pads. It might appear your dog is having trouble standing and walking all of a sudden, but you need to look more closely and watch how they put their paw down.
Knuckling results in the paw folding under, causing the dog to drag the top of their foot along the ground. Knuckling is not a disease itself but rather a clinical sign of an underlying medical issue. It should never be ignored. It can impact any dog at any age, though it is more commonly seen in puppies during developmental stages or in older dogs with neurological or musculoskeletal conditions. If your old dog’s back legs appear to be collapsing, watch how they put their paws down when trying to move.
While a dog limping on a front leg may make you think of knuckling, it’s dependent on whether the dog is trying to walk with the top of the foot down or not. Lameness can occur with and without knuckling.
Signs of knuckling in dogs include:
- Walking or standing on top of their paws
- Sores on the top of their paws
- Uneven gait
- Unsteady gait
- If you lift the foot, dog places paw back with the top down
Causes of Knuckling in Dogs
There are several potential causes of knuckling, and they vary widely in medical severity:
Neurological dysfunction, diseases impacting the spinal cord, nerves, or brain:
Trauma that impairs communication between the brain and limbs:
Muscular or orthopedic issues:
- Injuries
- Age-related deterioration
- Congenital deformities
Nutritional imbalances in puppies:
- Rapid growth in large-breed dogs, especially when dietary calcium and phosphorous levels are not fed at proper levels
- Slippery, uneven footing
Treating Knuckling in Dogs
The treatment for knuckling depends on identifying and addressing the root cause:
- For neurological conditions, treatment may involve anti-inflammatory medications, physical rehabilitation, and, in some cases, surgery.
- For orthopedic or muscular problems, supportive wraps, splits, orthopedic braces, and physical therapy can help realign the law and encourage proper limb posture while the underlying injury heals.
In puppies with developmental knuckling, improving their footing by avoiding slippery surfaces, limiting high-impact activity, and providing structured movement can help. In some mild cases, the condition may resolve on its own as the puppy matures, particularly when supportive management is in place.
Nutritional Management of Knuckling in Dogs
Nutrition can play a significant role in the prevention and management of knuckling, especially in growing puppies. Nutrition plays an essential role, particularly during growth stages and recovery. Choosing the right diet can help prevent developmental knuckling and support overall.
Diets that are improperly balanced in calcium, phosphorus, or vitamin D can contribute to significant musculoskeletal abnormalities, particularly in large and giant breed dogs. Excessive calcium intake, for example, impacts bone development and can cause bones to grow too quickly or improperly, leading to growth disorders that may present as knuckling.
Ensuring that puppies are fed a complete and balanced diet that is specifically formulated for their size and developmental stage is critical for proper growth and development. For adult dogs, maintaining a healthy weight through proper nutrition helps reduce strain on joints, which can indirectly help prevent issues like knuckling from developing due to joint degeneration.
Knuckling in dogs is a sign of an underlying issue that requires veterinary attention. Early detection and intervention are key, and treatment plans should be tailored to the individual dog based on the root cause of the problem. If your dog begins knuckling, it is crucial to consult a veterinarian promptly to determine the cause and appropriate course of action for your pet.
Best Peanut Butter for Dogs
Peanut butter is a popular treat among dog owners, used to fill puzzle toys, hide medications, or as a reward for good behavior. Most dogs love the rich, nutty flavor and, in moderation, peanut butter can be a safe and enjoyable snack for your pup. However, not all peanut butter is created equal, and pet owners should check the ingredient label to ensure no substances that are toxic to dogs, like the deadly sugar substitute xylitol, are used.
What Is Xylitol?
Xylitol is often used in sugar-free products, including some brands of peanut butter marketed as low-calorie or diabetic-friendly for humans. While safe for people, xylitol peanut butter can cause a dangerous drop in blood sugar in dogs, leading to hypoglycemia and possibly death. Even small amounts can be deadly.
The symptoms of xylitol poisoning can start within 20 minutes. Signs include:
- Vomiting
- Decreased activity level
- Weakness and collapse
- Difficulty walking or standing
- Shaking or seizures
- Coma
- Liver failure
- Bleeding problems
It is essential to check the label of any peanut butter prior to giving it to your dog. If xylitol is listed, sometimes under names like “sugar alcohol,” “birch sugar,” “wood sugar,” or “birch bark extract,” the product should never be fed to your pet in any amount.
Peanut Butter for Dogs Without Xylitol
Fortunately, many peanut butter brands are xylitol-free and safe for dogs in moderation. Most brands of peanut butter, especially natural brands, contain minimal ingredients, like just peanuts and salt. While some brands contain added sugars, many of the natural varieties do not. Regular sugar will not harm your pet, but it’s best to avoid feeding it regularly as it contributes additional calories without providing nutrition.
We think the best peanut butter for dogs are the dog-specific peanut butter products. Buddy Butter by Bark Bistro is formulated with canine health in mind, making it a top choice. Some peanut butter treats may contain added nutrients or supplements to support your dog’s health. Some brands, like Kong and West Paw, have products that contain peanut butter in convenient packaging that makes filling interactive chew toys easier for pet owners.
Safely Feed Peanut Butter to Your Dog
When offering peanut butter to your dog, consider the portion size compared to the size of your pet. Peanut butter is a calorie-dense food that is high in fat, which can contribute to significant weight gain if overused. For small dogs, even a tablespoon can contribute a significant number of calories toward their daily intake.
Dogs who suffer from pancreatitis flare-ups or who are sensitive to fat should avoid peanut butter altogether, as the fat content can trigger gastrointestinal upset. Additionally, while peanut butter contains some beneficial nutrients, like protein, niacin, vitamin E, and zinc, it is not a complete food and should only be used sparingly as a supplement or treat, not as a staple in your dog’s diet.
While peanut butter can be a fun, safe treat for most dogs, it is important to check the label to ensure it is free of xylitol, a sugar substitute that is toxic to dogs. Choosing natural or dog-specific products helps ensure safety and using peanut butter in moderation can help prevent unwanted weight gain or digestive issues. When uses sparingly, peanut butter can be a tasty, enriching experience for your dog.
How to Get Dog Hair Out of the Car
I have floofy dogs, so I learned to remove dog hair from my car. I also became a fan of preventatives. For example, if the vehicle that I am buying does not have leather seats, I buy leather seat covers. Yes, they are costly, but they reduce the cleaning time considerably since I don’t have to excavate hair from the seats.
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The best way to remove dog hair from a car is a dampened rubber squeegee or wet rubber gloves. They roll the dog hair up so you can pick off the clumps. I heartily recommend this option as the dampness helps to separate the fur from the carpet. There are also dog-hair removal tools that you can purchase for carpeting and upholstery, which work similarly to a dampened squeegee. A popular choice is the Lilly Brush.
You can also grab a microfiber cloth and a good lint roller. Run the microfiber cloth across the carpet or upholstery to do the “heavy lifting” of that clinging hair. Then grab the lint roller, which eliminates more hair, especially the fine pieces. It requires a lot of time, and you can go through a whole role quickly, but it’s a good finishing touch. A roll of masking tape can work, too, of course. It lasts longer but isn’t as quick as the lint roller.
Vacuuming Dog Hair From a Car
You can try vacuuming, but it’s rarely enough to get dog hair, especially floofy hair, out of the carpeting. The hair becomes one with the carpet. Vacuuming with crevice tools is needed when your dogs are floofy as much of that hair gets into spots that most commercial car-wash vacuums cannot easily reach. I also recommend vacuum brush attachments to help lift the fur from the carpet.
I have been told that spraying a light coating of fabric softener on the carpeting and letting it dry makes the fur easier to vacuum up. I have not tried this myself yet, however.
Professional Help for Dog Hair in Car
If all else fails, consider getting your car detailed by a professional. After all, they generally charge one flat price for this service so having them spend a few hours creating a sparkling inside for your vehicle without you having to lift more than your credit card to pay them might be worth the cost. It’s also a great gift to give someone for a special day. I know I would appreciate such a gesture.
Preventing Dog Hair Buildup in a Car
Personally, few other humans ever ride in my vehicle, and I have an SUV, so my rear seats are always down, with a cover over them. However, if you also have floofy dogs, you know that a covering is not enough to prevent hair from finding its way into crevices. To protect the doors, I have door covers that are inserted into the top of the window. These minimize floofy fur finding its way into the door cubbyholes and makes those areas easier to clean.
One could consider getting those wonderful floor covers such as from WeatherTech, but they are more expensive than leather seat covers I use, so I don’t have them. They do cut down on cleaning dog hair from the car, however, as you can pull the mats out and clean them.
Sileo for Dogs
Sileo gel for dogs may help dogs who seem to instinctively fear noise, or at a minimum, dislike certain noises. Those sounds can include vacuums, fireworks, thunder, any appliance that beeps, and more.
Sileo (dexmedetomidine oromucosal gel) is the first FDA-approved treatment for dogs that experience noise phobias or anxiety. Whether your dog needs treatment, be it behavioral modification or medication, can depend on the severity of the reaction to the noise, the frequency your dog is likely to encounter that sound, and if it is easy for you to manage avoiding that noise.
Sileo gel acts as a sedative for dogs and a bit of a tranquilizer. Your dog is still aware, but he “doesn’t care” as much about the disturbing noise. The gel must be carefully given orally. It is best to give it without food or anything that might interfere with absorption. You should wear gloves to avoid getting it on your skin as you would absorb it yourself. It can lower blood pressure.
Sileo Dosing Chart
It is very important to follow the dosing chart below exactly when giving Sileo, which is a prescription medication. The Sileo syringe has a plunger and marks dots on it to help you accurately dose your dogs, i.e., a 27-lb dog would get three dots.
Zoetis’s Sileo dosage chart is based on weight. Your veterinarian will go over dosages with you prior to dispensing the medication. Each dot contains .25 mL of Sileo. Each mL contains .1 mg of dexmedetomidine hydrochloride. Note: Don’t administer more than is recommended for your dog. When Sileo was released in 2016, there were incidents of people overdosing their dogs. Follow instructions carefully.
Sileo Dosing Chart
| Dog Body Weight in Pounds | Dose in Syringe Dots |
|---|---|
| 4.4 to 12.1 | 1 |
| 12.2 to 26.5 | 2 |
| 26.6 to 44.0 | 3 |
| 44.1 to 63.9 | 4 |
| 64.0 to 86.0 | 5 |
| 86.1 to 110.2 | 6 |
| 110.3 to 137.8 | 7 |
| 137.9 to 166.4 | 8 |
| 166.5 to 196.2 | 9 |
| 196.3 to 220.5 | 10 |
Sileo should not be given to dogs with health problems or who are on other medications. Always let your veterinarian know about any other medications or supplements your dog is taking. Weakness, loss of balance, tremors, and urination can all be side effects that should be reported to your veterinarian.
Other Dog Noise Phobia Medications
Other medications are available that may be recommended by your veterinarian as off-label alternatives to help with noise sensitivities. These include trazadone and gabapentin, which can help with anxiety.
Managing Your Dog’s Noise Phobia
Before reaching for medication, evaluate your dog’s noise problem. Management is usually a part of how to handle noise phobias. Perhaps it is just the vacuum that drives him crazy. This can be handled by putting your dog outside, in your car in a crate, or in a quiet corner of the house when you vacuum elsewhere.
Storm responses can be trickier. Storms don’t always follow forecast timing. You may have thought you would be home and able to keep your dog company somewhere quiet during a storm, but the storm arrives an hour earlier than expected. A coworker’s Irish Setter was known to jump out of second-floor windows and then run to escape loud storms. Her dog came to work on predicted stormy days to keep him safe.
Fireworks tend to be scheduled so you can plan. Some people simply pack up around big firework holidays like the 4th of July and head for the middle of nowhere to camp for a few days. If you stay at home, with a known fireworks timetable, you can plan when to medicate your dog for best effect. Many military veterans with PTSD also react to firework sounds. Some towns are now pushing for silent or quiet light displays, such as with drones. You still get the beauty but without the bangs.
Understanding Dogs with Noise Anxiety
Many breeders work to expose their puppies to a variety of sounds as young pups. There are CDs as well as YouTube videos with sirens (some dogs howl at sirens), vacuums, fireworks, gunshots, etc. on them. Initially, play these at very low levels so as not to frighten the pups. Sound can gradually be increased.
Many puppy-evaluation protocols include checking for sound sensitivity. A sharp sound is made, and the response of each individual pup is recorded. A startle is expected (if the dog gives no response, I would be concerned about deafness). Ideally, a pup startles and then either goes to investigate or continues doing what it was. Running off and not wanting to come back is indicative of sound sensitivity.
Dogs of different heritages will often respond differently. For example, guardian breeds, like the Great Pyrenees and Rottweilers, tend to want to go investigate, which makes sense. Herding dogs, like the Australian Shepherd and Border Collies, will tend to want to move away. In “real life,” they would be moving their flock from danger. Terriers tend to charge in.
Behavior Protocols to Reduce Noise Phobias
While medications provide a crutch, it’s wise to use behavior protocols for reducing noise phobias in dogs. If you can, work with a behaviorist to draw up a plan for your individual dog.
“Flooding,” which is overwhelming your dog with the sound until he basically gives up and accepts it, is NOT recommended. It can easily lead to irreparable damage to your dog’s temperament and your relationship.
Desensitization is better. This starts with the offending sound at a very low level. Your dog needs to be able to move away. You try to pair the low-level sound with something the dog loves such as his favorite treats. This works best if done early in the development of this phobia. Once firmly established, it is harder to break. Gradually, you can increase the sound level if your dog stays calm.
The use of physical methods can help. Many owners swear by ThunderShirts and pressure wraps (a la Temple Grandin) to reduce anxiety. The use of earmuffs or ear wraps can also help reduce noises to a tolerable level.
You can also try “noise masking,” which adds sound to the environment to reduce the intensity of unwanted sound. It makes the scary sound more difficult to detect. With things like thunder and fireworks, they “tone down” the noise so it’s less starting to the dog.
Whole Dog Journal offers an online course in handling sound anxiety in dogs. Whole Dog Journal’s online course “Dogs and Noise Anxiety explains the secrets to helping your dog deal with storms, fireworks, loud motors, shrill-sounding appliances, and other ear-piercing noises.
Help Your Dog Avoid Noise
What can you do to avoid noise phobias? Start by looking for a puppy who has had noise exposures and who tested sound for noise reactions. Of course, that isn’t always possible.
If you notice your dog being anxious about certain sounds, act right away. Plan if you can help your dog avoid the noise. A friend’s dog recently became nervous about the washer. So, her dog must be in a quiet room at the other end of the house with the door closed when it is running.
If it is a sound that will be there frequently, work on desensitization. Remember, slow and steady! Don’t rush the process, proceed with baby steps. When you can’t avoid the noise, try to have your dog away and in a quiet, safe place. Anticipate noisy situations and apply a wrap or give medication ahead of time if possible.
What To Know About In-Home Euthanasia
Wherever Harley went, commotion followed. I had a hunch that even in death, his knack for turmoil would live on, and I wasn’t wrong.
The giant-sized, mischievous black Labrador was known for exploits that ranged from picnic raiding (which included jumping on top of a table at a Boy Scout BBQ to swipe their food. I can still hear the mothers’ horrified screams in my mind) and grabbing an entire roast off the stove to remaining unscathed after jumping out a second-story window to scare off a creepy-looking man.
Harley was rescued from a terrible situation, and he cheated death many times, but at the age of 14, his health declined, and I didn’t want him to suffer.
I started exploring in-home euthanasia options to let Harley go peacefully because my 90-pound, brave, wrecking ball of a dog turned into a shaking, cowering, nervous wreck at animal hospitals. There was no way I was going to let him leave this life that stressed.
Back in 2010, there were few in-home pet euthanasia services available. That’s in stark contrast to today, when the option to let your pet go in a non-animal hospital setting has become so popular that there are now local and nationwide companies with teams of veterinarians specializing in dog euthanasia at home.
The Growing Popularity of In-Home Euthanasia
The in-home pet euthanasia industry has blossomed so much that some say it’s grown into a movement.
“It gives me chills because it’s really a paradigm shift, a change in perspective on pet end-of-life care,” says veterinarian Nellie Wilbers, with Lap of Love Veterinary Hospice and In-Home Euthanasia.
The company currently has more than 400 veterinarians helping pet families in 40 states and continues to expand.
“The popularity has grown because our pets are family,” Dr. Wilbers says. “You have more time at home, where everyone can enjoy privacy, peace, and comfort as they say goodbye, and have a little more control over that experience.”
Some pet parents choose in-home euthanasia because it’s difficult, even painful, to get their dog in the carrier or car. Choosing dog euthanasia at home also saves people from having an overwhelming emotional experience at an animal hospital with other people around, and from that horrible ride home without their dog.
Veterinarian Juliana Lyles, owner of A Gentle Goodbye Veterinary Hospice in the Chicagoland area, says some families appreciate the option to have their dog’s last day filled with all the things they love.
“They’re giving their dog all of their favorite foods,” Dr. Lyles says. “The dog doesn’t know anything is different because they’re at home. It’s just any other day to them, which is so beautiful. They don’t fear death. They live in the moment, and for this to be just any other moment for them is—well, I think there’s no better way for them to go, if possible.”
All these reasons are what made in-home euthanasia so appealing to me, so I made an appointment for Harley.
How Does In-Home Pet Euthanasia Work?
Experts say planning ahead can be key with in-home euthanasia since it can be challenging to get a same-day appointment.
Contact Local Veterinarians or Companies in Advance
If you think you may have to let your dog go in the near future, start looking for in-home euthanasia providers. Ask your veterinarian, friends, and family for referrals. Search online in your area and read reviews.
Contact and interview providers. Ask questions about the company and its process. Can you have friends and family around? Can your dog be in their favorite backyard spot? What is the cost?
My survey found the price of in-home euthanasia today ranges from about $400 to $700, depending on the size of your pet, cremation wishes, and extras like paw prints and keepsakes. Ask if you can pay in advance. This way, you won’t be scrambling to find a credit card on the day of the appointment, with tears in your eyes.
Make sure you feel comfortable with the veterinarian or service who will be coming to your home to let your dog go.
“It’s one of the biggest decisions that we have to make as pet owners, and perhaps in our lives,” says Maggie Holl, a licensed vet tech and manager of MN Pets, which provides in-home pet euthanasia in the Minneapolis Twin Cities area.
Once you find a provider, register in advance with the company so you’re in their system, even if you aren’t ready to set an appointment date.
Decide “When is the Right Time?”
Many in-home euthanasia providers are happy to discuss the difficult decision of when to say goodbye to your dog.
“We offer quality of life telehealth appointments for people asking the tough question, ‘How do I know it’s time?’,” Dr. Lyles says. “It makes a big difference. Discussing it helps solidify their thoughts. There’s an expression that we use that it’s far better to be a week too early than an hour too late because a pet is suffering.”
The key is letting them go in peace, and that you and your family are also at peace and understand the decision.
“We’re never going to be ready to say goodbye, never, ever,” Dr. Wilbers says. “We encourage people to lead with love, not selfishly, but being brave and doing what’s best for their pet, even when it hurts us.”
What To Expect During an In-home Euthanasia Appointment
On appointment day, a veterinarian arrives at your home, works with you to make your dog comfortable and calm, and tries to accommodate your wishes.
Veterinarians say the actual euthanasia process they use is similar to in-office euthanasia.
“Most will give the pet some kind of sedation ahead of time,” Dr. Lyles says. “We give a combination of pain control, plus anti-anxiety medicine, plus sedation, so the dog is nice, comfy, and is getting sleepy. Then we give the euthanasia solution that causes them to pass away.”
The veterinarian usually gives you some time with your pet after they’ve passed. This may sound morbid, but my advice is to make sure there’s a plan for when it’s time to remove the body.
Have a Post-Mortem Plan
A few days before I let Harley go, my then-boyfriend brought over a large, blue, plastic sheet.
“What is this?” I said.
“Well,” he responded sheepishly, “This is just in case the veterinarian doesn’t bring anything to carry out Harley’s body. He’s a big dog.”
“Oh my gosh! Of course, the vet will have a plan. This looks like a tarp a serial killer would use!” I yelled, stuffing it into a closet.
On the appointment day, the veterinarian arrived, my boyfriend ushered him in, and soon after, Harley passed away in my arms. He knew how much I loved him. It was exactly as I had hoped.
Until the veterinarian uncomfortably looked around my fourth-floor apartment and said, “Um, ah, hmmm, do you have anything we can put Harley in to carry him out to my car?”
My eyes, blurry and nearly swollen shut from tears, saw my boyfriend’s face light up. He shot me that dreaded “I told you so” look. He jumped up and presented the relieved-looking vet with the serial killer tarp.
The pair moved Harley’s body onto the drop cloth looking thing, then each held an end of the tarp, picked it up, and awkwardly carried it out the door, down the hallway of my building, toward the elevator.
But no matter how they tried to disguise it, no matter how closely they struggled to hold the ends of the plastic sheet closed, there was no way to hide the fact there was a dead body in the tarp.
The suspicious-looking duo got in the elevator, and my boyfriend hoped it didn’t stop on any other floor so they could make a clean getaway.
Nope. One floor later, “Bing,” the doors opened, and a group of young women, all chatting about where to go out that night, got on.
They took one look at the two men in the back of the elevator uncomfortably holding a tarp, which clearly had a body inside, and froze.
The women’s conversation stopped, and the elevator ride continued in eerie silence. “Bing.” “Bing.” Each floor the elevator passed on its way to the ground floor felt like an eternity.
The doors finally opened, and the women ran out; to this day, I’m still surprised they didn’t call the police.
I’ve found that in-home euthanasia has come a long way since then. Years later, I arranged an appointment for another one of my dogs, using a different veterinarian who had a post-mortem plan.
All the in-home euthanasia companies I spoke to for this article assured me they all have arrangements, so the body-moving moment doesn’t end with a neighbor calling 9-1-1.
“I can confidently say things like that do not happen with practices that I have helped,” Holl says. “We are prepared for all sizes of pets. We have little baskets with blankets for the kitties and small dogs. We have a stretcher that we call a bed for large dogs. We lay it down and use a blanket and pillow […] so people don’t have to think about that stuff; their last memory is seeing their dog or their cat tucked into a little bed or basket.”
Veterinarians With Heart and Soul
One of the things that resonated with me after using two in-home euthanasia services was what a tough job these vets have. They show up at people’s homes where everyone is sobbing and suffers with them through the gut-wrenching pain of losing a beloved animal.
When I asked the veterinarians how they cope, they all said it’s a privilege to bring peace to the pets.
“I try to think about the dog who is having a tough time; he is probably in pain, and I get to make this a peaceful process for him,” Dr. Lyles says. “He is so loved that his family arranged to have in-home euthanasia, and that is an amazing gift you can give him.”
I definitely prefer in-home euthanasia, and I’m actually grateful for the disorganized Harley experience. The expected-yet-unexpected serial killer tarp moment just adds to all the infamous Harley stories that live on in our hearts.