If you are visiting family or friends, the key to a great vacation with your dog pal is to ask first! Be direct: Would it be convenient for me to bring my dog? Even if your family and friends love your dog as much as you do (or love you enough to understand that you are a package deal), there may be situations when it is just not suitable to bring your dog.
For example, if your niece is allergic to your dog, or your uncle just adopted a new cat who is afraid of dogs, leaving your dog at home might be a better choice. If you are visiting friends or family for an event – say a wedding or other large gathering – keep in mind how your dog will fit in with the plans. What will he or she do while you are at the rehearsal dinner? Will he be comfortable and quiet – or panting and barking – in a crate while you are toasting the bride and groom?
If your dog is welcome, and the visit is one that will allow your dog some fun times, too, checking in a little more than usual with your host can go a long way toward keeping good family and friend relationships happy. Consider asking, “What can I do to make it easier for you or your other family members (including your pets)? Do you have any household restrictions or requests (like not letting the dog on the new white carpet!)? Can I bring any extra supplies (like sheets to cover furniture)?”
Once you get to your family’s house, spend a little time helping your dog get settled before you get too involved with catching up with the relatives. Make sure he eliminates outside before you go in, then show him around in a calm, controlled manner, perhaps even keeping him on leash.
If there is a resident dog, take the dogs for a walk together before bringing them into the house together; even if they know each other, this will help them transition and be calmer once inside. Remember throughout your visit to help your dog follow the household rules like staying off the furniture or out of certain rooms. With your help, your dog-pal can learn the rules of this new place, and will be much more likely to be invited back again!
For some of us, taking a vacation just wouldn’t be nearly as much fun if we couldn’t share it with our dogs. Camping and other outdoor adventures are natural vacation options with our four-legged friends, although dog-friendly vacations can be as plush as a four-star hotel stay! Depending on you and your dog, your perfect dog-friendly vacation might mean a visit with your favorite aunt and uncle, sightseeing in your favorite historical town, long days hiking and swimming, or simply snoozing in a hammock on your favorite beach.
While taking your dog on vacation can be great fun, it can also pose some challenges. Not every dog (or person, for that matter) will enjoy a visit to a crowded tourist destination. Not every relative will appreciate having us show up on their doorstep with our dog in tow. And some dogs just aren’t cut out for rugged camping adventures. Plus, some dogs become over-excited or anxious when traveling, which can lead to things like marking, barking, or destructive behavior. These won’t make for the most relaxing vacation experience!
So how can you make sure that you have a fun-filled, happy vacation that includes your dog, and a dog who loves to vacation with you? It all starts with realistic expectations and being prepared.
When you think about vacationing with your dog, you may already have a destination, such as a visit with your favorite aunt or a trip to a national forest. If you’re still considering your options, a quick Google search will reveal thousands of dog-friendly vacationing opportunities: camping, cabins, resorts, hotels and motels, beaches, dog camps, and even canoeing and boating trips. But which will you and your dog really enjoy?
To avoid a lot of “pre-training” for what you know will probably be a one-time experience, you may want to choose a get-away that brings you the experience you desire, while still taking into account your dog’s personality. Consider some of these dog-related questions when thinking about your vacation:
-Does your dog like adventure and excitement? Or would she be happier with a calm, quiet experience?
-Is your dog a seasoned traveler? Or will this experience be all new?
-Does your dog enjoy people? Other dogs?
-Does your dog have any special needs or physical limitations that might affect her enjoyment of a trip?
How will thinking about these questions help? If your dog is a social butterfly, and you both love the bustle of people and activity, for example, you might choose a dog-friendly resort area or city.
In contrast, if your dog is shy of people or likes to run and swim, you might choose a quiet week in a lake-front cabin instead. Keeping your dog’s personality and experience in mind will help you plan a fun vacation for you both.
Dogs Allowed or Dog-Friendly?
Once you have a specific type of trip in mind, it’s time to do a little research. For most vacation destinations, you can find options that will allow dogs. But there is a vast difference between a place that simply allows pets and one that is truly pet-friendly.
Some tourist destinations, for example, allow dogs in hotels, campsites, and parking areas, but not when visiting the actual attractions. We found that out one year when visiting a state park. Our dogs were allowed in our campsite and the parking lot areas, but not on the trails that led to the river, beach, or redwoods.
In contrast, a friend recently returned from a tour of art galleries in Santa Fe, New Mexico. Their accommodations were welcoming of their young German Shepherd, but Cassie was also invited into every gallery they visited. Plus the city boasts a large off-leash dog park and walking area. Both dog and humans had a wonderful vacation and plan to return in the near future.
When making your vacation plans, call or query ahead and ask to make sure that what they consider “pet-friendly” really does meet your canine’s needs. Check out these 5 Tips for Staying in a Hotel With Dogs from Dogster.com to make sure you know exactly what to expect.
-Are dogs allowed in the hotel, motel, or campground?
-Are there size or breed restrictions?
-Are there restrictions on the number of dogs you can have?
-Is there an extra charge or a cleaning fee for dogs?
-Are dogs required to be on-leash?
-Are there dog-friendly parks in the area? What about off-leash parks or beaches?
-Are dogs allowed on walkways, paths, or trails? In city or downtown areas? On sidewalks? In stores, galleries, wineries, or other locals attractions?
-Do I need proof of vaccinations or a health certificate?
Keep in mind that there are no right or wrong answers here. Some people may really want to visit a place where their dog can romp off-leash, while for others that isn’t as important, or could even be a deterrent. The answers to these questions will help you assess if this is the right place to take your dog.
Preparing for Travel with Dogs
Travel is a huge part of many vacations. My vacations usually involve car and foot travel (i.e., walking and hiking), but I have friends who have ridden bicycles across the country with their dogs, and know others for whom canoeing and kayaking are important parts of their dog-friendly vacations.
The most important thing to consider about traveling with your dog is how accustomed he or she is to the type of travel you will be doing. Is your dog comfortable in the car or canoe? Can you take steps ahead of time to help him become more comfortable?
If traveling by car or recreational vehicle, make sure your dog is relaxed on longer rides, doesn’t get car sick, and knows how to settle down. To make it even more pleasant for your dog, plan to make frequent stops to stretch, play, and potty.
If your vacation involves walking, hiking, or backpacking, make sure your dog is in good enough shape to handle your walking expectations. In addition, make sure his or her pads are toughened up for new terrain or have him habituated to wearing booties to protect his feet.
Bike and boat travel with dogs usually involves dogs riding in a specific spot, carrier, or cart. Similar to traveling by car, your dog will need to be comfortable in the particular vehicle and know how to settle in for the ride.
Are you considering public transportation as part of your travel plans? Depending on where you live and the type of travel you are doing, this may or may not be an option. For example, in the U.S., Amtrak trains and Greyhound buses do not allow dogs, with the exception of service dogs. But some trains in other countries do. Do your homework ahead of time to find out the rules.
Prepare for “Dog Time”
Some vacations involve continual travel or moving from place to place. Others are about getting to and enjoying a single destination. But either way, your vacation will mean a lot of together time with your dog. This is where a whole set of “do’s and don’ts” come into play.
Do plan to have your dog with you all of the time. Your dog will need to be with you or one of your traveling companions at all times.
Don’t leave your dog alone in a hotel room or campsite (most places don’t allow it, and even if they do, many dogs will be completely freaked out at being left in a strange, new place).
Don’t leave your dog alone in the car while you play tourist. Even in the shade, even with the windows down, leaving dogs in cars can be very dangerous. On a 75 degree day, for example, the temperature inside of a car can reach 120 degrees in 30 minutes or less. This can put your dog at risk for heat stroke and death. Cold is equally problematic. In cold or snow, your car can become a refrigerator in a matter of minutes. Plus, dogs can be stolen from cars when left unattended.
If you are staying in one place (say a rental cabin or a family member’s home) for more than a few days, Do condition your dog to staying in this new place for short periods of time. It’s easiest to do this with dogs who are crate trained or already accustomed to visiting places other than your home.
Some tourist destinations also have day kennels where you may be able to leave your dog while you visit the sights, but Do check out any kennel carefully to make sure it is a safe and appropriate place for your dog.
Not being able to leave your dog does limit how you will travel and what you can do. But it also opens up opportunities to do more fun things with your dog. For example, you can find great dog-friendly restaurants with outdoor seating, or get take-out and have a picnic at a nearby park or riverbank. While you may not be able to hike that national park trail, you probably can hike an equally beautiful trail in a neighboring national forest. An outdoor art exhibit or private gallery may allow your dog even if the county museum does not.
Train Your Dog Along the Way
Like with everything in the life of a dog, a little training can really pay off in the long run. Some behaviors are especially helpful when it comes to traveling.
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Eliminating on cue (“Go potty” or “Get busy”) may be one of the more important things you can teach a dog with whom you would like to vacation! A dog’s house-training may or may not travel with him to a new place. Dogs tend to learn where to go at home and the places they visit regularly, but they won’t know when you first step out of your car in a new city or town where the appropriate toilet spot is located. When you teach them to eliminate on cue, you have a huge step up to helping them learn to go when and where you want them to go (like in a posted potty area rather than the hotel flower garden, or worse yet, the lobby planter!).
Here’s how to get this behavior on cue:
1. Pick a word or cue such as “go potty” or “get busy.”
2. For about a week, every time you see your dog about to pee or poop, say “get busy” or your cue. This will begin creating an association between the words and the action. When the dog finishes, praise or give a reward.
3. Once your dog seems to be making the connection between the cue and eliminating, try asking your dog to “get busy” when you know he needs to, but isn’t yet about to do it. Does your dog look for a place and make it happen? If so, you’ve successfully created an association, and you can use it in new places.
4. Keep rewarding your dog until he has it down! Now, when you get to a new place, you can take your dog to a designated potty area and say, “get busy.”
Along with teaching an elimination cue, you can help your dog understand where to go by doing the following:
–Give him the chance to relieve himself as soon as you arrive at a new place.
–Take your dog out regularly, much as you would a puppy. Praise or reward him for going in an appropriate spot.
–Don’t expect your dog to know how to “ask” in this new place. And certainly don’t expect him to find the potty spot on his own until you have been in a place several days and it is well established.
–Is your dog a marker? If so, keep a very close eye on him in the first hours or days in a new place. Interrupt marking behavior immediately and take him to a designated potty area.
Other behaviors that can help your dog have a great vacation include:
Coming when called. This is a critical safety skill. If your dog gets loose in a new environment, he can easily become disoriented. Knowing to come back when called is even important for dogs who will be kept on-leash. You just never know when a dog will become upset or freaked out and take off unexpectedly.
Settle on their bed or in their crate. If your dog knows how to settle, then you can use this behavior when you are dining in an outdoor restaurant or when you are ready to relax back at the hotel room. If you are visiting family, your dog may be more likely to be invited back if he can settle quietly during dinner or at the end of a busy social day.
Say hello. During travel, you will likely run into unfamiliar people. Teaching your dog the important skill of greeting strangers can really help your dog’s comfort level in a new place.
Loose-leash walking. Leashes are almost always required at some point during a vacation, and you’ll both have a lot more fun if your dog isn’t dragging you around.
When you are embarking on a new experience with your dog, training ahead will help. But keep in mind that for a novice traveling dog, you will likely need to do some training along the way, too.
For example, one of my dogs started off his first camping adventure afraid of night noises. The first few nights of our camping trip were not much fun at all. I was awake, working with him to understand that the night rustles and owl hoots really weren’t anything to be concerned about. But after that initial training, he became a great camping dog – knowing what to ignore, and when to alert. Giving up a little sleep in order to train paid off big time for years of camping adventures.
Doggy Packing List?
When getting ready to pack for yourself, your decisions will be influenced by where you will be staying, the weather, and what activities you will be enjoying. Consider the same things when deciding what to bring for your dog. The basics include food, water, and bowls, treats, poop bags, and a leash, but your list may expand depending on the type of vacation you are taking.
If your dog will have the opportunity to get wet, muddy, or covered with burrs and ticks, bring dog towels (and dog shampoo?), a brush, flea comb, and tick remover. For a hotel stay, bringing a comfy crate and an extra sheet or blanket to protect your bed would be more appropriate.
One of the most important things to consider for your dog is identification. Make sure your dog wears a well-fitting collar with current ID tags or nameplate. Even if your dog does not wear a collar or tags at home, it is critical should you become separated during your travels. Make sure the ID has a phone number that can be reached on your travels – ideally, your cell number.
A microchip is also a very good idea for all dogs, but especially when you take your dog on a trip. Most shelters and veterinary emergency hospitals have scanners and will check for a microchip should your dog become lost. This is one time when planning for the worst is essential!
In some cases, for example if you are crossing state or national borders, you may need to have health certificates or proof of vaccines with you. Some parks or camp areas may also require proof of rabies or other vaccinations. Check ahead to make sure you have the paperwork you need.
For your dog’s comfort, always bring along some things that are familiar. A favorite bed or blanket or a cozy sleeping kennel are ideal. Having a familiar bed or blanket can really help your dog understand that where you are, he belongs! And if your dog has been taught to settle on his bed, he will also know where to take a break from the excitement of your travels. Favorite toys can also help.
Think about confinement tools, too. A crate for sleeping or traveling in the car is great, but you might want to consider other types of confinement as well. For example, if you are car camping, your dog may be required to be on-leash at all times in the campground. But if you’re cooking over an open fire, you will not want to hold on to your dog’s leash. A cable tie-out or an exercise pen may be good options for hanging out around the camp. Of course you will need to be with your dog and supervise if he is on a tie-out or in a pen, but your hands will be free for other activities.
Finally, think about what you’ll need, and then come up with a similar list for your dog. Will you need sun protection? Then you might need to think about sun protection for your dog as well. Will it be cold enough for a jacket? Perhaps your short-haired dog will also relax more comfortably with a sweater or jacket. What about insect repellent? Will you encounter fleas, ticks, or mosquitoes during your travels? Are you taking along your boots for hiking or a life jacket for boating? Then your dog may benefit from foot protection and a flotation vest. What about a first-aid kit? Obviously, for some vacations, you won’t need all of these items, but be sure to consider all of the “what ifs.”
Enjoy Your Dog!
My vacation this year will be to our favorite place in Northern California, called The Other Place. The house we will rent sits on a ridge top above the town of Boonville. It has the perfect balance of creature comforts for me and my partner, and wild dog experiences for our young Queensland heeler-mix. Plus, it’s private and calm – a good match for my dog’s needs and personality. We’ll hike and play, she’ll swim in the pond, and we’ll all relax in a big hammock overlooking a beautiful valley, brimming with bird song. We will also take a trip to the coast, spend a day walking wwthe dog-friendly trails of the Mendocino Botanical Gardens, dine at outdoor restaurants, and probably picnic by the river, too.
This type of vacation is well suited for our dog, with the right balance of activity, calm and quiet, and just a touch of social interaction. Some day, I may have a very outgoing dog, and then I will plan a vacation to one of the great dog-friendly resorts, or perhaps spend a week at a dog camp playing agility with other dog-fanatics and their dogs. But for now, this trip will suit all of us perfectly and give us, well, a real vacation!
When Erin Sullivan’s employer offered her a promotion and relocation to Orlando from Baltimore, she jumped at the chance to leave the cold behind in favor of the Sunshine State. Little did she know that her excitement would soon be quashed as she attempted to find a rental home – and subsequently, renter’s insurance – that would accept her, her Pit Bull, and two Pit Bull-mixes.
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Stories of breed discrimination by insurance companies (and rental property owners) abound as insurance companies increasingly refuse to write homeowner’s and renter’s policies for people who own breeds of dogs that the insurance industry considers to be “dangerous.” Many opponents argue that the industry’s decisions are based on faulty assumptions and improper use of dog bite statistics. Authors of scientific studies on dog bites have argued against the use of their data to support breed-based decision-making by insurers and legislatures. Major veterinary and breed registry organizations have also strongly opposed breed discrimination in insurance. None of these expert opinions seem to dissuade the insurance industry, however.
A Triple Whammy
When Sullivan embarked upon a search to find rental housing in Orlando that would accept her and her dogs, she prepared resumes for her dogs, wrote letters explaining that she would be more than happy to provide liability insurance through a renters’ policy that would cover the dogs, that she’d pay extra deposits, provide stellar references, and Canine Good Citizen (CGC) and Temperament Testing certificates.
That strategy seemed to work – at first. She soon discovered that although she might find a suitable home to rent, the insurance policy of the home’s owner would not allow for Sullivan’s dogs to be on the premises. It took Sullivan “a couple of months of searching and worrying and being rejected by, literally, dozens of agents and private homeowners” before she found a great landlord who had a State Farm policy and allowed her to have her dogs live with her in the house.
It turns out that Sullivan’s dogs were not the only factor that made it difficult for her to find an insurance provider. Sullivan learned that national insurance carriers had been leaving the state of Florida in droves, declining to renew – never mind issuing – policies due to high risk associated with Florida’s hurricanes. Her choices were already limited by her choice of moving to Florida, and her choice in dogs made the task even more difficult!
Insurance Landscape
Homeowner’s and renter’s insurance are categorized by what the industry calls “cause of loss.” These are property damage (fire, lightning, and debris removal; wind and hail; water damage and freezing; theft; all other) and liability (bodily injury and property damage; medical payments and other; credit card and other). Dog bites are in the latter category.
States are responsible for crafting laws that regulate insurers within their borders, and in no state is it mandatory that coverage be offered to every consumer who applies.
The problem is this: Many insurers base their decisions to cover renting or home-owning dog owners solely on the breed of the dogs, not the individual characteristics of the applicants’ dogs. The insurance industry has prejudged entire breeds of dogs as being too risky. And few states have laws that compel insurers to write policies for all dog owners.
When it comes to insuring homeowners or renters with dogs, a few insurance companies consider each applicant on a case-by-case basis that includes the dog’s history — querying the home owner as to whether the dog has a bite history (this is the case with my insurer, USAA). Others, however, maintain that their decisions are based upon their experience with claims for a certain breed, taken from their own database of the number of claims for dog bites and dog attacks per breed. Some base their decisions on lists of dogs considered to be dangerous; others cite published reports on the frequency of dog bites for certain breeds.
The Insurance Information Institute reports that, “Insurers generally oppose legislation that would require changes to their dog breed practices. They contend that government public health studies and the industry’s claims histories show that some breeds are more dangerous than others and are higher loss risks.”
When I inquired with the states of Florida and Georgia, I received similar replies: It’s legal for insurance companies to decline to offer coverage to individuals who own certain breeds of dogs or other animals that are considered aggressive. This seems to be the case across most of the U.S., although a few more forward-thinking states have passed laws that prohibit insurers from discriminating against dog owners based only on breed (Michigan and Pennsylvania, for example).
Valid Rationale?
It’s true that dogs bite. According to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, more than 4.7 million people are bitten by dogs annually, resulting in an estimated 800,000 injuries that require medical attention. Information from a December 2010 report from the Agency for Healthcare Research and Quality shows that in 2008, 9,500 Americans received “serious” dog bites. Treating patients admitted to a hospital for dog bites cost hospitals an average of $18,200 per patient and $54 million overall. The report also claims that over a 15-year period, hospitalizations for dog bites increased 100 percent.
The Insurance Information Institute reports that dog bites account for more than one-third of all homeowners’ insurance liability claims, and that the total cost of the dog bite-related claims was about $412 million in 2009. It reports that the average cost of dog bite claims was $24,840 in 2009, while the number of claims increased 4.8 percent to 16,586.
Four hundred and twelve million sounds like a lot of money, but let’s put it into perspective. Property damage accounts for about 96 percent of all claims, with liability claims accounting for the remaining 4 percent of claims – and dog bites accounting for a bit more than a third of liability claims.
Even if we assume the insurance industry has a grasp on dog bite numbers, the statistics they lack are reliable reports of bites by breed, which is a story in itself due to concerns about breed misidentification.
Two published reports seem to serve as the basis for breed discrimination related to dog bites by insurance companies. The first was a 1997 report, “Dog-Bite-Related Fatalities – United States, 1995-1996,” published in the Centers for Disease Control’s (CDC) weekly “Morbidity and Mortality Report.” Authors of this report analyzed data from the Humane Society of the United States (HSUS) and media accounts of dog-bite-related fatalities in the NEXIS database.
The second report is “Breeds of Dogs Involved in Fatal Human Attacks in the United States between 1970 and 1998,” published in the Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association (JAVMA) in 2000. Its authors also analyzed data from HSUS and media accounts.
Here’s the interesting thing: Both the CDC and American Veterinary Medical Association (AVMA) concluded that their own analyses cannot be used to infer breed-specific risk for dog bite fatalities, nor to identify specific breeds most likely to bite or kill. The CDC went so far as to stop tracking dog attacks by breed in 1998. Both organizations have further qualified that their reports should not be used for policy-making decisions. Why? Both cited several reasons, including the fact attacks by some breeds seem to be regarded as more news-worthy than other breeds, resulting in a disproportionate number of articles about bites by certain breeds. Another factor cited was that identification of breeds is often subjective. Dog-bite-related fatalities, said the JAVMA study, “may be differentially ascribed to breeds with a reputation for aggression.”
Karen Delise, author of the Pit Bull Placebo and founder/researcher for the National Canine Research Council, notes that the CDC recommends “A Community Approach to Dog Bite Prevention” by the AVMA Task Force on Canine Aggression and Human-Canine Interactions. The CDC says, “Dog bites are a largely preventable public health problem, and adults and children can learn to reduce their chances of being bitten.” Their stance is that public education, not breed bans, will prevent dog bites.
Unfortunately, the CDC and JAVMA studies are still cited by some insurance companies as the basis for their policies to deny coverage to people with certain breeds of dogs.
Between a Rock and a Hard Place
If you are a homeowner with a mortgage, your mortgage company requires that you have insurance. Many landlords require their tenants to have a renter’s insurance policy. You are not required to have liability insurance if you own your home outright or your landlord does not require it, but going without insurance leaves you open to significant liability. The website Dog Bite Law advises that “Every dog owner needs to have homeowner’s insurance or renter’s insurance that (a) provides coverage for, and does not exclude, injuries inflicted by dogs or animals in general, and (b) has a limit of at least $100,000 for personal liability.”
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Attorney Larry Cunningham, Assistant Dean for Students and assistant professor of legal writing at St. John’s University School of Law in New York, had firsthand experience with breed discrimination in Lubbock, Texas, when he went to buy a home and sought to purchase homeowner’s insurance to cover him and his two dogs, a Rottweiler and a Chow-mix. As a result of his eye-opening experience, he penned an informative piece, “The Case Against Dog Breed Discrimination by Homeowners’ Insurance Companies.”
Cunningham is clear on one point: You must not lie about your status as a dog owner when applying for insurance. “Consumers should definitely shop around, since there are a few companies who will consider an individual family’s circumstances and whether the family dog has a bite history. Above all else, however, families should not lie. Lying on an insurance application is a felony in most states (‘insurance fraud’) and can invalidate the policy later on if there is a claim.”
The American Kennel Club (AKC) is against breed discrimination by insurance companies, stating, “If a dog is a well-behaved member of the household and the community, there is no reason to deny or cancel coverage. In fact, insurance companies should consider a dog an asset, a natural alarm system whose bark may deter intruders and prevent potential theft.” Below are some of the tips they offer to dog owners on how to find homeowner’s insurance (from the online AKC Homeowners’ Insurance Resource Center):
–Ask your dog-owner friends who they use for insurance; if your dog is a purebred, check with your dog’s national breed club for ideas. I’d add to this: also check with local breed and training clubs, and other local dog resources such as dog daycare centers and trainers.
–Contact your state’s insurance commissioner to get a list of the insurance companies doing business there. Tell the commissioner of your frustration over companies’ discriminatory practices. The AKC recommends that, if you have had a policy cancellation or refusal to renew, ask the commissioner to review your policy. Remember, laws might exist, such as in Pennsylvania or Michigan, that prohibit insurance companies from discriminating by breed.
–Agents within the same company may have different policies. Talk to more than one representative for a particular carrier before giving up.
–Contact your state senator or representative and let him or her know the difficulties you are having. Ask that she introduce legislation prohibiting insurance companies from discriminating against homeowners based on the breed of dog they own. (Note: The AKC’s Government Relations Department has materials to help with this.)
–Provide proof that your dog has been trained, and/or has his CGC.
–Consider buying a separate liability policy or separate rider to your existing policy that is specifically directed toward your dogs.
Erin Sullivan’s solution was to get an umbrella policy tied to her car insurance policy that offers liability insurance and covers the dogs. Unfortunately, she could not find any rental policies or homeowner’s policies that would insure her. She says, “At this moment, I do not have any renter’s insurance; no one down here in Florida will write a policy for my dogs, except Citizens (Property Insurance Corporation). And it would only exclude the dogs; it would not cover them.”
In Cunningham’s case, after weeks of calling nearly every insurance agent in Lubbock, he obtained insurance through the Texas Farm Bureau, an organization that he says “advocates for farmers and farming issues.”
I queried other individuals in similar situations; there are those who have foregone insurance; others have lied about their dogs; one built her own home after being asked to leave her rental apartment and also finding restrictions from some neighborhood associations; and one is paying an additional $1,200 a year for a policy that has no breed restrictions.
The Stark Reality
Doggone Safe is a nonprofit organization dedicated to dog bite prevention through education and dog bite victim support. Co-founder and President Joan Orr says, “We think that the history and characteristics of the individual dog and the owner characteristics should be considered rather than the breed. This is difficult for insurance companies since they base everything on statistics and the stats indicate that certain breeds bite more.
“This does not take many other important variables into account, but I am not sure how else they could do it. Teenage and young adult males pay huge car insurance premiums (three or more times what females pay) because statistically they get into more accidents. This is not fair on the boys that are safe and cautious, but it is the way insurance risk assessment works.”
I asked Dean Cunningham what would be needed to convince state insurance regulators to step in and push through changes that would help dog owners. “State legislatures step in when there is political support behind particular regulation,” he says. “For example, in the mid-1990s, it came to light that new mothers were being discharged from hospitals within 12-24 hours of giving birth because the insurance companies were not paying for longer stays. State legislatures stepped in and required insurance companies to pay for at least 48 hours. There was a political uproar that supported the legislative change. I’m not sure the same political pressure exists with the breed discrimination issue.”
Lisa Rodier shares her home with her husband and senior Bouvier, Jolie.
Trish King, Director of Training and Behavior, Marin Humane Society, Novato, California, (marinhumanesociety.org) says potential dog park problems include:
–Dogs who bully other dogs who are more cautious or reserved.
–Dogs who form an impromptu pack, threatening incoming dogs.
–The natural tendency of dogs to gather around gates and entrances, posing a threatening environment for dogs just arriving at the park.
–The dogs’ instinct to protect themselves, particularly if the owner fails to. (Source: Marin Independent Journal, August 14, 2006; marinij.com/marin/ci_4178959)
Eric Goebelbecker, CPDT and owner of DogSpelledForward.com, of Maywood, New Jersey, says, “The problem is most dog parks aren’t a safe place to play either. What dogs are going to be there today? Are they trustworthy? Did they come with responsible humans? Are they healthy? Are they fully vaccinated?” (Source: dogstardaily.com/blogs/dog-parks-and-why-you-should-avoid-them)
Attorney Kenneth M. Phillips, owner and author of dogbitelaw.com, Beverly Hills, California, warns owners about potential legal issues, including:
–Dog owners not cleaning up after their dogs (resulting in possible fines, disease transmission, and municipal decisions to close parks).
–Inappropriate dogs at parks, resulting in dog fights and bites/injuries.
–Ambiguous waiver of rights/assumption of risk; if a sign says “Use park at your own risk,” what does that mean?
–Inappropriate park locations, such as near playgrounds.
–Canine professionals who bring as many as 6-10 dogs to a park at once.(Source: dogbitelaw.com/dog-parks-liability-for-dog-bites/dog-parks-and-liability-for-dog-bites.html)
Park rules should be posted prominently near park entrances – if they’re not, ask about them prior to bringing your dog to the park, and make sure you are able and willing to comply. Here are some of the rules that you are likely to find:
-If a separate area is provided for small dogs, please honor the size restrictions.
-Dogs over the age of 6 months must be spayed/neutered. (Alternatively, no females in season allowed.)
-All dogs must be currently licensed.
-No choke, prong, or shock collars. Remove harnesses.
-No unsupervised dogs; dogs may not be left unattended.
-Owners must clean up after dogs.
-Aggressive dogs are not allowed. Please do not bring dogs with a past history of aggression toward dogs or humans. Dogs who demonstrate aggressive behaviors toward dogs or humans in the park should immediately be removed from the park and not return.
-Children under the age 8 (or some other designated age) should not enter the off-leash area of the park. Alternatively, children under the age of (designated age) must be directly supervised at all times in the park. No running, loud, or rough play allowed.
-No more than three dogs per person (or other designated number).
-No smoking or eating within the fenced dog park area.
-Always close gates behind you.
-Be polite and considerate of other park users.
-Keep dogs on-leash until you enter the off-leash area (or the “airlock” immediately preceding the off-leash area).
Dog parks have gotten a bad rap in the past few years, thanks in large part to articles written and statements made by training and behavior professionals. That’s unfortunate, because, while there are, indeed, problems with some dog parks, a well-run facility can be a lifesaver for some dogs.
These days, most dog park administrators understand the need for rules that purport to regulate, at least to some degree, the behavior of the canines and humans who avail themselves of the dog park privilege. Problems arise when there’s no one in attendance to monitor the action and enforce the rules. Some parks run well on a peer-pressure basis, but this format often acts only to evict an offender after a problem arises – sometimes a serious one – rather than screening users in advance to prevent problems.
The majority of official dog parks are municipally owned and operated. I am always delighted to see communities recognize that dog owners and their canine family members are as deserving of a slice of the local park pie as are soccer players and Little League teams. However, very few municipally run dog parks provide adequate supervision. They put up the fence, post signs with rules, and keep the grass watered and mowed, and that’s it. When problems arise, animal control is called, and the issue may or may not be resolved to everyone’s satisfaction.
The ideal model for a successful dog park is a privately owned or very well-supervised municipal facility where dogs are screened before being accepted and owners are issued membership cards that they swipe to gain entry through a locked gate. The park should have at least one attendant on duty during park-use hours, to intercede, hopefully before a problem behavior becomes serious, but if not, at least to manage the situation after something occurs.
Off-Leash Dog Parks: How Humans Should Behave
Half the problems (or should I say at least half the problems) at many dog parks stem from human behavior rather than dog behavior. When you take your dog to a park your primary responsibility is to keep your eyeballs on her and intercede if/when things are getting dicey.
There can be a fine line between two dogs happily playing body-slam and chew-face, and the moment one decides he’s had enough and things escalate to real snapping and snarling. If you and your dog-owner friend are drinking wine and chatting with your backs to the action, you’ll miss the early warning signs that trouble is brewing, and lose the opportunity to intervene before things turn ugly. Oops, too late! Now there’s a full-blown dogfight, and you’ve lost your dog park privileges. Turn in your membership card!
Rule-ignoring is also a problem. See that 85-pound Shepherd in the small-dog area? That’s a tragedy waiting to happen. The owner who is blithely feeding her dog pieces of chicken while her toddler tried to hug the pretty doggies, even though the sign says “no treats in the off-leash area” and “no children under 8”? Another disaster in the making. Maybe two or three.
Well-run parks have paid staff whose job it is, among other things, to make sure dogs and humans play by the rules. Parks that aren’t staffed are likely to have a much higher rate of unfortunate incidents than those that do, thanks in large part to those oblivious owners who think that rules only apply to others. If you plan to play in the park with your dog, be sure you’re not one of them.
What Dogs Do Best at the Dog Park?
Perhaps you are fortunate enough to have a well-run dog park in your community. How to do you if your dog is a good dog park candidate? For starters, she must already play well with others. A dog park is for socializing, not for socialization. It’s a terrific place for a dog who already understands how to read and respond appropriately to the body language of other dogs. It’s a great place for a dog who enjoys the company of other dogs and likes to engage in appropriate play. It’s not the right place for a dog who is socially challenged. The undersocialized dog needs to learn those skills elsewhere, and may never be comfortable with rowdy play styles of unknown stranger dogs in a dog park setting.
If your dog is undersocialized, she needs to learn her canine social skills in a more controlled environment than a dog park. Pair her with one appropriate dog, who will tolerate her social ineptness. If yours is a little shy, a calm, stable adult dog can help her learn that other dogs are okay, maybe even fun to be around. If yours is a Rowdy Roberta who never learned when to back off, a more energetic playmate is in order, but one who will politely, firmly, and without taking offense, tell your dog when enough is enough. In time, you hope, she will learn to self-inhibit her over-excited play, and be ready for group action. Or not. Some dogs are never good candidates for dog park membership.
It’s perfectly normal for some dogs to eschew group play even from an early age. Others start out in life happy to play with all comers, but as they mature, decide they’d rather have a small circle of intimate play partners rather than interact with the canine hoi polloi found at most dog parks. Dogs who love to romp with any and all takers for their entire lives are the exception rather than the rule in the canine world – really not all that different from humans in that respect, when you think about it.
If you have any doubts about your dog’s suitability for dog-park-play, get an outside opinion. Ask a competent dog behavior and training professional or a very dog-knowledgeable friend to evaluate your dog’s social skills before taking the park plunge and risking an incident that could put your dog and others at risk of harm. It could be a costly mistake if your dog attacks another and you end up paying vet bills and dancing to the often-onerous demands of your local dangerous dog ordinance.
If you do think your dog is a good park candidate, be sure you’re making an honest assessment. It’s easy to be blinded by your love for your canine pal. Unless he has a history of playing well with lots of dogs in a wide variety of situations, approach your dog park experience with caution. Make his first visit to the park at a low-usage time, perhaps accompanied by that dog-knowledgeable friend who can help you interpret his behavior around other dogs and assist with intervention should things not go according to plan. You cannot be too careful. And remember that dogs don’t have to go to dog parks.
Pay Attention to Your Dog’s Behavior and Body Language!
Some dogs seem to be eternal victims at the park, as if they have an invisible (to us) “kick me” sign taped on their backs. They may or may not put out aggressive signals; tense, nervous, or submissive behavior may also elicit bullying responses from some other dogs. The value of exercising at the park may be negated by repeatedly subjecting a dog to this treatment.
Qualities of a Good Dog Park
If you’re fortunate enough to have a dog park in your community and a dog who plays well with others, your last step before actually taking her to the park is checking it out to be sure it’s a good place to take your canine pal. Here are some things to look for:
Space and Fencing
The best parks are several acres or more, and are enclosed by a sturdy, well-maintained fence that’s at least six feet high, perhaps with an anti-climb device on the top, and preferably buried in the ground at the bottom. If the area is too small for the number of dogs, there is a greater risk of canine conflict; the more space there is, the easier it is for a dog to avoid dogs that make her uncomfortable. And, of course, good fencing prevents escapes.
Another vital escape-protection and safety measure is an “airlock” system of gates, where dogs and their humans enter the park into a small enclosed space with another gate to the actual park run area. The owner removes the dog’s leash in this airlock, checks to be sure the gate behind her is latched, and then opens the gate into the park. This prevents dogs from slipping out when a new dog enters the park, and also avoids the “one dog on-leash being mauled by a pack of loose dogs” scenario that can give rise to aggression and fear-causing incidents.
There should be at least two separately fenced areas in the park, clearly designated for large and small dogs, and owners should respect the designations. Even better: four or more separate areas clearly defined by size and play-style, so dogs who enjoy a good game of “chase me” aren’t being tackled by body-slammers.
Maintenance
Upkeep of the facility is another important consideration. Scrutinize the conditions of the park. Is the grass mowed and nurtured, or is the park a muddy mess with overgrown weeds? There are some parks that are kept in a more natural state – especially parks that are larger and include woods and meadows and real hiking trails, but the entrance and social area should still be well maintained. If there’s equipment for dogs to play on, it should also be kept up – painted, no splintered or rotten wood, and no exposed nails.
Rules
All good dog parks have rules. They should be clearly posted in plain view and obeyed. The best parks have someone in attendance to monitor rule compliance as well as user comfort and safety. Some assign their human users a numbered armband that they are required to wear when using the park so if there is an incident of some kind the culprit can be easily identified. Read the rules to be sure you are willing and able to comply with them before taking your dog to the park.
Ambience
Visit the park at several different times of day without your dog. You’ll see usage patterns – low, high, and moderate-use times throughout the day. You may also see specific groups of dogs who tend to come at fairly fixed times. With this information you can make deliberate decisions about when you want to bring your dog (high or low usage) and which groups of dogs might be the best match for her (and which dog owners you might most like to hang out with – it’s a social outing for you, too!).
If everything looks positive after your fair and careful assessment of the park and your dog, you’re in luck! Now it’s time to go to the park with your dog. Pick a low usage time at first, even if you’re convinced she will have a blast with the group of six-to-eight dogs that normally gathers at 6 pm.
Do this a few times, at least, until she’s clearly delighted to be there. This will give her a chance to explore and get comfortable with the environment without being mobbed and overwhelmed. Her introduction to the 6 pm group will go much more smoothly if she’s not distracted and wondering where the heck she is. The positive association she gets from being and playing there without being stressed by a pack of dogs will help her through any stress that may arise as a result of being greeted by multiple dogs.
When you’re ready for 6 pm, stop by at that time, again without your dog, and let the group know you’ll soon be a newbie in their group. Tell them about your dog, to help ease any concerns they may have about an addition to the 6 pm club.
When you do bring your dog, get there early, assuming there’s less dog traffic while everyone is still at work. Let her run and work off some energy while you’re waiting for the others to arrive. This way she gets to meet and greet them one-at-a-time instead of in a bunch. This is likely to make introductions go more smoothly.
For appropriate dogs, the opportunity to run, play, and socialize with other dogs can be a real blessing to canines and their humans. I still have fond memories from when I was working at the Marin Humane Society (Novato, California) 15-plus years ago of the “dog-pack hikes” that staff would take with their dogs at the nearby off-leash open space areas. We all would return from that lunchtime hike in the hills, dogs tired and humans more relaxed, much better able to deal with the stressors of shelter work.
If you have a good dog park in your community, and a dog who is suited for dog-park play, go for it! If your dog-park-worthy dog doesn’t have a park place to play with his pals, maybe you can get dog owners in your community to rally together to start one, or talk your local positive dog trainer or pet supply store into launching a private park. If all else fails, start one yourself!
IS THE DOG PARK SAFE FOR YOUR DOG?
1. First check out your local dog park without your dog, to determine if it’s a well-run facility and a safe environment for you and your dog.
2. Make an honest assessment of your dog’s ability to play at a park. If you’re not sure, ask a knowledgeable dog person to assess her park-play potential.
3. Be responsible. Follow the rules, and be attentive to your dog’s behavior at all times so you can intervene when you see early warning signs of pending problems.
Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA, is WDJ’s Training Editor. She is the author of many books on positive training, including, Do Over Dogs: Give Your Dog a Second Chance at a First-Class Life.
July 4th is a dreaded time for thousands of noise-sensitive dogs and their owners. In many parts of the country sound-sensitive dogs and the humans who love them are already struggling with the effects of thunderstorms – thank goodness fireworks really only occur once a year. Our Corgi, Lucy, is a thunder-phobe, and we know all too well the impact thunder and firecrackers have on her (and our) quality of life. Fortunately, the following can make life better for you and your dog during noisy events.
1. Stay Home
Ever since the mid-1980s, when we shared our lives with our first sound-sensitive dog, Independence Day and New Year’s Eve have been occasions to stay home rather than go out and celebrate. You can relieve some of your dog’s stress with just your comforting presence. It’s harder to stay home consistently during thunderstorms unless you have the good fortune to work from home, but there may be times when you can make the choice to pass on an optional outing if a storm is coming.
2. Hold Your Dog
Despite what you’ve heard to the contrary, it’s perfectly okay to comfort your sound-stressed dog, as long as you do it calmly. If she wants to be in your lap, or next to you on the couch or the floor, let her. If it helps her to calmly put your arms around her and hold her, or do calming massage or T-Touch, do it. This is not operant reinforcement of her fear; it just helps her feel better – and may even work to classically counter-condition her very negative association with thunder or fireworks.
It doesn’t help, though, if you are stressed, chanting, “It’s okay, it’s okay,” over and over, while rubbing your dog as if you were drying her off with a towel. In other words, you need to stay calm, too!
3. Manage/Minimize Intensity of the Stimulus
Reduce the intensity of the fear-causing stimuli by closing curtains to shut out the visual effects (flashes of lighting, lights, or sparks of fireworks) that your dog associates as reliable predictors of the bad noise.
White noise machines can help mask the sounds; so can the especially composed “Through a Dog’s Ear” CDs, especially if you have played the CDs during relaxing times so your dog already has a calm, positive association with the music. (If you play them only during storms he may form a negative association with the otherwise calming music.)
You can also use Mutt Muffs to muffle the sound. Use positive classical conditioning to convince him that the earmuffs make wonderful treats happen. (Of course, if he is disturbed by the Muffs even after multiple classical conditioning sessions, don’t force them on him.)
4. Counter-Condition
Use recordings of thunderstorm sounds and/or storm sounds. Start with the volume at barely audible levels – or even inaudible levels, if your dog is still worried. Pair this low-level sound with wonderful things, such as high-value treats, or games of fetch or tug, until your dog gets happily and consistently excited in anticipation of his favorite things when you turn the sound on. Then turn the volume up slightly and continue.
This is a long-term project; don’t expect to turn up the volume every session. This won’t fix everything; your storm-phobic dog may also react to wind, rain, and even the change in barometric pressure, but it’s a start. When a real storm approaches (or fireworks begin) try the counter-conditioning strategy at the earliest hint of stimulus, and keep your dog playing the game as long as possible. When he’s too stressed to take treats or play, revert to other strategies. It helps if you’re lucky with a lot of near-miss storms that give you conditioning opportunities without reaching full intensity.
5. Drugs
Short-acting anti-anxiety medications can greatly enhance your sound-sensitive dog’s quality of life. I give Lucy Alprazolam (Xanax) when storms threaten. It not only helps ease her immediate fears but also seems to have reduced her strong reactions to storms in general.
I can’t tell you which drug is right for your dog, but veterinary behaviorist Dr. Karen Overall strongly cautions against using tranquilizers such as acepromazine for sound-anxiety behaviors. “Ace” is a dissociative anesthetic; it scrambles perceptions, which may make the dog more fearful. If your vet isn’t well educated in the use of behavior modification drugs, urge her to do a phone consult with a veterinary behaviorist prior to selecting medications and dosages for your dog.
This is a follow-up to an issue we discussed via the Letters to the Editor section of the May issue (“Bad news for dog owners looking for single-antigen vaccines”). A subscriber had written us out of concern that his veterinarian no longer offered distemper-only vaccines. We looked into the matter and learned that in fact, Schering-Plough, the last veterinary vaccine company that still made a distemper-only vaccine, had recently ceased production of the vaccine. It’s just not available anymore.
We’ve had a number of readers send us letters or email messages giving us information about the vaccines they use for their dogs. Many buy their dogs’ vaccines from mail-order catalogs or internet veterinary pharmacies and administer the vaccines themselves. Here is an excerpt from one such letter:
“I’ve been inoculating my dogs (yearly booster shots) for longer than I can remember. I get my single dose vaccines from [XX]. You can get a [XX name] (including) Canine Distemper, Adenovirus Type 2, Parainfluenza, Parvovirus Vaccine Modified Live Virus, Leptospira Canicole, Icterohaemorrhagiae Bacterin – single dose 1ml dose w/syringe and needle for $4.89.”
I apologize if the issue we discussed in the May issue was less than clear. Our concern is not the ability to purchase a vaccine for one dog – a “single dose.” What we were lamenting was the new lack of availability to purchase a vaccine for distemper only – one that contained the distemper antigen and no other disease antigens.
To be even more clear: We deplore the widespread use of what are sometimes referred to as “whombo combo” vaccines – the combination of a number of disease antigens all packed into one “shot.” Dogs don’t need to be vaccinated every year in order to be protected from disease; most vaccines stimulate an immune response in dogs that will last many years. And many of the disease antigens that are combined and presented to dog owners as our “only option” for protecting our dogs are ineffective and/or unnecessary. Decades ago, veterinarians thought of vaccines as something that “couldn’t possibly hurt, and will probably help.” Today, we know that immunology is more complex that previously understood, and that overvaccination can cause health problems.
Please see the following articles for more information on vaccinations:
It’s a never-ending quest – like looking for the Holy Grail – the search for the perfect piece of humane equipment that will teach your dog not to pull on the leash. Here’s a tip: it doesn’t exist. Any piece of equipment is merely a tool that opens a training window for you. To use it correctly, you must take advantage of that open window to reinforce the behavior that the tool encourages the dog to offer. If you fail to consistently reward the desired behavior when it happens, the tool becomes a crutch that you rely on to make the behavior happen. In worst case scenarios, the dog learns to ignore the tool and reverts to his former behavior even with it on. What you want, instead, is for the dog to learn the desired behavior – not pulling – so you can wean him off the tool and still have him offer the desired behavior, independent of the presence of the piece of equipment.
For more details and advice on how to select the best collar and leash for you and your dog, please refer to A Close Look At Dog Collars.
In the past few months, to accommodate a shifting family situation, I’ve moved my “home office” out of my home, twice. First to a rented office space, which I hated (after 14 years of being able to go to the kitchen or back yard or to go take a nap any time I wanted to!). Then my husband and I bought a second house in a short sale, to use as my office, extra space for extra family members, and a fix-up project. It’s two blocks from our home, and Otto and I walk (and bike) from house to house several times a day. This house has a fenced backyard; the front yard is unfenced. The street is about 30 feet from the front door.
Why all the trivia?
Because it might help you visualize what happened to me just the other day. I clipped a leash onto Otto’s collar, grabbed a few things, and then we walked out the front door of the new house/office onto the porch; we were about to go home for dinner. Otto had just woken up and was yawning and stretching next to me on the porch, dragging his leash. I turned around to lock the front door behind us, and suddenly Otto roared and launched off the front steps at high speed, headed straight for the street. And in the same moment that my brain registered the fact that Otto was running toward the street, I also heard a car or truck approaching. I screamed, even as I was turning around, “OTTO OFF!”
Why “OFF”? It was instinctive. I thought that he must be chasing something – which turned out to be the case. And we’ve worked on “off” a lot: “Off” the cat, “Off” the chickens, “Off” the cat food,” “Off” the UPS driver, “Off” the plate of food sitting on the coffee table.
As I finished my turn toward the street, my brain registered the sight of Otto flying down the last step before the sidewalk, dragging his leash behind him. And a strange cat, fleeing, but hovering right at the curb. And a pickup truck traveling from our left to our right, fast.
And then my “OFF!” registered in Otto’s brain, and he screeched to a halt, practically in mid-air. And both the approaching truck and Otto’s halt registered in the cat’s brain, and the cat turned left, hard, and raced up the sidewalk. I don’t think the truck driver’s brain registered any of this. We were about one second away from a dead cat for sure, and surely a badly injured dog, if not a dead one. And a massively regretful, sorrowful person (me).
I was frozen for a second, and then Otto turned and bounded back toward me, tail high, eyes shining. “Ha!” he seemed to say. “Didja see that? I showed THAT cat what’s what,” he bragged, all puffed up. And I burst into tears as I buried my face in his fur, patting and hugging him. “Good boy, Otto. GOOD dog. Wow! WHAT a good boy!” I was still shaking 10 minutes later.
So I learned a lesson. Even with a quiet street, and a great dog, I can’t take anything for granted. I need to hold that leash as we walk out the door — or at least scope out what is going on outside before letting the dog through a door that leads to the street. And we’ll keep practicing “OFF!” Every day, folks, every day. Training pays.
Organs are an important part of a raw diet. Liver and kidney in particular are nutrient-dense and provide a great deal of nutritional value. These foods should make up about 5 percent of the total diet. Note that they may cause loose stools if too much is fed at one time. It’s better to feed smaller amounts daily or every other day than to feed larger amounts once or twice a week.
Heart is nutritionally more like muscle meat than organ meat, but it is rich in taurine and other nutrients. If possible, make heart another 5 to 10 percent of the diet. More can be fed; just remember that too much can lead to loose stools in some dogs.
Other organs, such as spleen, eyeballs, sweetbreads (pancreas and thymus glands), brain, etc. are nutritious and can be added to the diet in small amounts.
For more information on Home-Prepared Diets for Dogs, purchase any of Whole Dog Journal’s ebooks on the subject:
Recently, I brought Otto to the vet for a routine visit. The postcard I received from the vet’s office suggested that Otto was due for some vaccinations, a heartworm test (so I could refill Otto’s prescription for heartworm preventive medication), and a test for tick-borne diseases. The latter two tests are available in a single in-office blood test.
First peeve: “Routine vaccines.” When I call to make the appointment, I let the receptionist know I won’t be vaccinating my dog unless a distemper/parvo titer test tells me he needs a “booster” shot. First, she claims that they don’t do these tests. Argh! When I tell her to look in Otto’s file, she will see results from LAST year’s test (admittedly, ordered through another vet, one I’ve “fired” already), and can’t they just order the same test from the same lab? She puts me on hold to check with the vet before agreeing that yes, they CAN do a titer test.
Next peeve, at the appointment: The vet assistant reaches for Otto’s leash to lead him to the scales. Why should that bother me? Well, Otto is weird about slippery floors (like the kind they have in vet offices), so I quickly explain that she needs to allow him to take it slow, he might freeze up if she rushes him. I also hasten to slip him some bits of hot dog as we approach the scale, and I tell him “Up!” (It’s only an inch off the floor, but he knows “up!” from agility and other things, and it will help him understand what to do.)
(By the way, as I came out of the exam room with Otto, an older gentleman with a big, strong dog on a Flexi lead came in the front door of the clinic. He allowed the dog to charge right across the lobby and get right in Otto’s face; he made no effort to press the “lock” button on the Flexi at all. I was able to call Otto away from the dog, and an assistant came out to direct the man to bring HIS dog to the scale . . . but I noticed that THAT assistant did not take the leash, nor ask the man to lock the Flexi to a shorter length; the dog sailed across the room several times without a word from anyone! So, apparently, taking the owner’s leash is not a policy at the clinic, even in the few cases when maybe it should be . . .)
Next peeve: Again with Otto’s leash in hand, the assistant heads for a door — not to an exam room, but to “take him in the back.” Um, no. I’ve had too many dogs who had inexplicably bad experiences “in the back,” and given Otto’s fear of floors (and his willingness to walk on them thus far), I’m not going to let him out of my sight, just in case he balks and is pulled or pushed into a bad experience. “No, no!” I said. “Sorry, but I’d really prefer for you to pull blood in an exam room, with me present. We’ve made a lot of progress on the slippery floor thing, and I don’t want anything to happen to reverse that, if you don’t mind!” I said it smiling and lightly, but it’s a deal breaker for me.
Final peeve of this visit: After the assistant (and another assistant) draw Otto’s blood, I’m told that I can call back for all the results later. No exam? But I’m here to get a prescription for heartworm preventive; we need both a negative heartworm test and, I had thought, at least a brief exam in order to ascertain that my dog was healthy enough to safely be given a prescription for heartworm preventive. Without seeing the dog . . . what about this exchange, aside from the test result, warrants the “prescription”?
And all this is from a clinic that I *like*!
Are my vet visit pet peeves ridiculous? What are your vet visit pet peeves?
I’ve had a number of older owners book lessons with me lately—more than half a dozen individuals and couples in their 70s and even 80s, all wanting some training help with their new dogs or puppies.
