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Five Accupressure Points for Your Dog’s Health

Like all mammals, dogs require the same basic constituents that their ancestors did in ancient times. Though dogs have been re-designed by human needs over the centuries, their need for proper food, exercise, rest, play, social interaction, and touch remain the same.

In Chinese medicine, health and emotional well-being are considered to be highly dependent on lifestyle, which can be further supported by acupuncture or acupressure and herbs.

Canine Accupressure

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From the perspective of this ancient medicine, everything is “medicine.” Health is defined as both an internal and external balance of nutrients and energy so that the human and dog alike can function within its environment. The Chinese were interested in how the living body maintains health, thus preventing illness, from season to season and location to location. The goal is to help the body adapt to constant environmental change.

To achieve this goal consistently, Chinese medicine incorporates the “Five Branches,” or stems, as a guide to balance and health. The Five Branches are:

• Food

• Acupuncture/Acupressure

• Tui Na (Chinese meridian massage)

• Chi Gong (exercise)

• Herbs

Species-appropriate food is essential. Exercise and body movement to enliven energy is absolutely necessary. All mammals need to be touched so that the body receives sensory, caring stimulation.

To support the effectiveness of a balanced lifestyle, dog guardians can provide acupressure that corresponds directly with the Five Branches of Chinese medicine. Only holistic veterinarians are allowed to prescribe herbal supplements in most western countries, but as dog guardians we can enhance how well herbs are metabolized by using acupressure. The same is true with acupuncture; only trained veterinarians (or a trained acupuncturist working under the supervision of a veterinarian) can legally perform acupuncture since it is invasive. Guardians, however, can readily offer acupressure for similar effect.

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The Five Branches of Chinese medicine offer a model for living a long, full, and healthy life. The intention underlying the Five Branches is for the animal to remain energetically balanced no matter what the season, the animal’s stage within the canine life cycle, or whether living in a generally cold or hot environment. A dog’s health is dependent on his body’s ability to adapt, and given the right “ingredients,” all dogs can thrive.

An older dog has different requirements for exercise than a younger dog, for instance, but both need exercise to be healthy. In the winter, according to traditional Chinese medicine, a dog needs to retain body heat and should not exercise as exuberantly as he can in the other seasons. This is about paying attention to the animal within the context of the current environment and supporting the dog’s ability to adapt. Each of the Five Branches provides the day-to-day constituents of health.

Acupressure points and the Five Branches
There are specific acupressure points that every dog guardian can use to maintain their dog’s health and further support the animal’s lifestyle.

The first acupressure point, also called “acupoint,” addresses the first essential branch of Chinese medicine (food) as well as the absorption of herbs. The second acupoint identified supports Chi Gong, or body movement and exercise. The Third point relates to Tui Na (pronounced “Tway Nah,” original Chinese meridian massage, which offers calming and mental clarity). The fourth acupoint supports the dog’s overall immune system. And the fifth point is commonly used in health emergencies.

■Stomach 36 (ST 36), Leg 3 Mile, is the “master point” for the gastrointestinal tract and is known to enhance the function of digestion and absorption process, so that the body can break down nutrients from food and herbs, making them bioavailable for absorption.

■Gall Bladder 34 (GB 34), Yang Mound Spring, is the “influential point” for strengthening and increasing the flexibility of tendons and ligaments. Though dogs are cave animals and usually stretch after resting and before exercising, GB 34 maintains the body’s ability to move by keeping the tendons and ligaments supple. Stimulating this point will help minimize physical injuries. This point is known to support emotional balance as well.

■Heart 7 (HT 7), Spirit’s Gate, offers the dog’s heart original, essential energy so that his mind can attain clarity and his emotional state can be generally calm. This point can be used with any stressful situation for your dog.

■Large Intestine 11 (LI 11), Crooked Pond, is known as a powerful immune system strengthening point. LI 11 is a “tonification point”; it enhances the flow of blood and energy throughout the body. It is part of most health-maintenance acupressure protocols.

■Governing Vessel 26 (GV 26), Middle of Man (Dog), promotes resuscitation and consciousness and is often used during a seizure and for traumatic emergencies especially when there is a loss of consciousness. This point is often included in canine first aid courses since it can be used to keep a dog alive while on the way to veterinary care.

These five acupoints are gifts from ancient medicine that we can offer our dogs so that their lives will be filled with optimal physical and emotional health. Sitting down with your dog once a week and slowly holding these points on both sides of his body will go a long way to letting him know how much you treasure his life.

Amy Snow and Nancy Zidonis are the authors of TheWell-ConnectedDog:AGuidetoCanineAcupressure,Acu-Cat:AGuidetoFelineAcupressure,and EquineAcupressure:AWorkingManual. They own Tallgrass Publishers, which offers meridian charts and acupressure DVDs for dogs, cats, and horses. They are also founders of Tallgrass Animal Acupressure Institute, offering hands-on and online training courses worldwide, including a Practitioner Certification Program. See animalacupressure.com or call (888) 841-7211 for more information.

Healing Your Canine with Energy Medicine and Holistic Dog Care Techniques

Can exposure to color change your health? What about tapping on key acupuncture points or other body parts? And is there any way to focus or concentrate naturally occurring energy so that it has a more therapeutic effect?

Veterinarians and other healthcare practitioners who experiment with energy healing deal with these and related questions when they address the “etheric body,” the invisible part of the patient that is also described as the vital or energy body. Improving the etheric body’s energy flow or state, they say, stimulates a self-healing mechanism that encourages the body to repair itself, often in record time.

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In the past four issues, we’ve described a number of “energy medicine” tools such as homeopathy, flower essences, Reiki, crystals, acupuncture, and therapeutic touch. In this article, the conclusion of this series, we’ll describe several more modalities that can be used alone or in combination with conventional or alternative therapies and are widely considered to be free from adverse side effects.

Healing with color
When photobiologist John Ott pioneered time-lapse photography, he discovered the vital role that full-spectrum natural light plays in the development of plants and animals. He also discovered that color can have a profound effect at the cellular level.

Whenever he photographed living cells under electron microscopes, Ott noticed that changing the color filters on his camera lens changed the cells’ behavior. When he was hired to document the effects of pharmaceutical drugs on living cells, lens color changes had a more dramatic effect on the cells than the drugs did.

In animal research, prolonged exposure to a single color has caused female reproductive problems, fur loss, toxic symptoms, digestive disorders, male sterility, abnormal bone development, abnormal body weight, and cataracts.

However, short-term exposure to colors has had the opposite effect. In the late 19th century, English physicians discovered that exposure to light of different colors caused measurable improvements to their patients. Years later, scientists in Europe and elsewhere explored the ways in which exposure to color influences health. In the United States, color was a popular healing therapy until the 1940s and ’50s, when lobbying efforts by conventional physicians convinced the U.S. Food and Drug Administration to make the use and sale of medical color projection equipment illegal.

Many physicians will tell you that color therapy is still on the fringes of modern medicine, but look at some of the applications used today:

• Maternity wards of major hospitals routinely use blue light to treat neonatal jaundice.

• NASA uses red light to speed the healing of injuries in space.

• The U.S. Navy uses colored light to treat injuries.

• Medical research shows that blue light suppresses the metastasis of melanoma cells in mice, red light has anti-inflammatory effects, and full-spectrum light, which contains all colors, is a successful treatment for depression caused by seasonal affective disorder.

• Light-emitting diodes (LEDs) are common in medical devices that relieve pain and fight infection with red, blue, and other colors.

William Campbell Douglass, MD, was newly interested in color treatments when a patient came to him with a large ulcer on the side of her leg. The ulcer was half an inch deep and full of pus – and had plagued the patient for five years. She had tried salves, antibiotics, and various surgical interventions (debridement or scraping) with no improvement.

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As he describes in his book Color Me Healthy, Dr. Douglass treated the ulcer by shining indigo light on it. The patient continued this therapy at home twice a day, one hour at a time, and soon new skin covered the open sore. Within a week she was free from pain for the first time since the ulcer developed, and six weeks after her initial treatment she returned to show Dr. Douglass a leg that had almost completely healed.

“I know it’s hard to believe,” he says, “but color therapy really works. And not just for external wounds. It also works for many internal ailments at which modern medicine just throws useless drugs and surgery.”

Many veterinarians, ophthalmologists, and other healthcare professionals who treat patients with color follow the guidelines of the Dinshah Health Society, which publishes books and instructions for using Spectro-chrome equipment consisting of color filter material and a light source such as a slide projector, lamp, flashlight, or the sun.

Each color has its own wavelength and frequency. Red, orange, and yellow are stimulating; green is said to bring the body into balance; and blue, indigo, and violet are at the calming or sedating end of the spectrum. The Spectro-chrome system also uses lemon, turquoise, purple, magenta, and scarlet. As explained in Darius Dinshah’s book Let There Be Light, every physical condition has its own protocol or sequence of color treatments, and drinking water can be treated with color for internal and external application.

A more elaborate and expensive color therapy system is the Lumalight, developed by Spectrahue Light & Sound, which shines light through mineral-based glass color lenses.

Rainbow of benefits
Lynn Younger, who lives in Sedona, Arizona, has worked with dogs and other animals for 10 years using “colorpuncture,” a European modality of acupuncture that substitutes concentrated Lumalight for acupuncture needles. “I’ve treated thousands of canines, most commonly for painful conditions like arthritis or hip dysplasia, infections, and emotional issues,” says Younger. “Usually the animals present with conditions that have been treated by conventional veterinary medicine without success, and the application of color almost always triggers improvement.”

Ojito, a Chow-mix belonging to Eliza-beth Heaney of Tucson, Arizona, pinched a nerve in her back and was in too much pain to eat or drink for three days. “About 15 minutes into her color treatment,” says Heaney, “Ojito abruptly stood up and began to drink from her water dish. By the end of the treatment she was eating hungrily. The change was remarkable, from barely lifting her head to walking around and wagging her tail. She’s been fine ever since.”

A fungal infection called Valley Fever is a serious problem in Arizona, and when it settled in her lungs, Kali, a nine-year-old Wheaten Terrier, coughed as often as 20 times a minute. “She did not respond to prescription drugs,” says her owner, L. Enlow, “but color therapy stopped her coughing, and a chest X-ray taken after a few months of ongoing color treatments showed that the virus was greatly reduced.”

Color therapy doesn’t have to involve elaborate equipment, says Younger. “You can tonate water in colored glass jars or bottles simply by placing them in the sun. For a dog with arthritis, you could keep water in a red glass container and then apply it as a spray or wash. You could also have the dog lie on a red towel. There are many ways to expose dogs to color. In my experience, animals respond much more quickly to color therapy than humans do. They don’t try to figure out whether or how it works. They just enjoy it.”

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Annie, a 16-year-old Bichon Frise belonging to Linda McGuire in Wethersfield, Connecticut, seems to enjoy her Spectro-chrome tonations. “She goes right for the light and lies under it for her snooze,” McGuire says. “The colors help with her kidney disease and other symptoms, and she actually positions herself for best results. Animals are so smart! My vet doesn’t want to know the details, but he says I should keep doing whatever I’m doing because it’s working so well.”

Pamela Fisher, DVM, a holistic veterinarian in North Canton, Ohio, has treated almost a hundred canine patients with Lumalight color during the past year, most of them for skin, digestive, emotional, or respiratory problems.

“When cooling blues are applied to hot spots or other inflamed skin conditions,” she says, “there is an instant calming and skin color change, from red and irritated to more normal, which starts the healing process.”

Color therapy tonations usually last half an hour to an hour, but Dr. Fisher‘s single-color Lumalight treatments seldom take more than a few seconds. “The results are actually that fast,” she says.

One of Dr. Fisher’s patients is Michael, a 16-year-old West Highland White Terrier belonging to Lyn Sabino of Canton, Ohio, who has chronic lung problems. His bronchial dilating medication was recently changed by another veterinarian, and after two doses on the new medicine, he grew weak and struggled for breath.

“His condition was serious,” says Dr. Fisher, “and it was getting worse. I applied cooling blue color to his chest and heart area, and within a few seconds his labored breathing calmed and the color of his mucous membranes improved, becoming more pink due to better oxygenation. He continued to improve, and I sent him home with color-treated water for continued application.”

Dr. Fisher reports that separation anxiety, thunder phobia, fears, incessant barking, inappropriate urination, and other emotional or behavioral issues also respond quickly to color therapy.

BodyTalk and AnimalTalk
Australian chiropractor John Veltheim, an expert in applied kinesiology, acupuncture, Reiki, osteopathy, sports medicine, counseling, and philosophy, combined all of these interests when he developed Body-Talk, a system in which the practitioner uses muscle testing (kinesiology) to ask the client’s body specific questions about what parts need treatment first. This approach, says Dr. Veltheim, is what sets BodyTalk apart from other healing systems and makes every BodyTalk session unique.

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Once the initial organ or body part has been identified, the practitioner asks a series of yes or no questions to discover what that part needs, such as a link to a specific gland or organ. As soon as the link is identified, the practitioner uses gentle hand contact and tapping to correct imbalances and speed healing.

“Lightly tapping on the skull,” says Dr. Veltheim, “seems to activate the brain centers in a way that causes the brain to consciously reevaluate the state of health in the bodymind. Tapping on the heart completes the process by sending patterns of energy and information to every cell in the body.”

Five years ago, Ange Trenga of Missoula, Montana, became a BodyTalk instructor and practitioner for people and animals. AnimalTalk is a version of BodyTalk designed for pets and other animals.

One AnimalTalk client had a six-year-old Golden Retriever with severe skin problems. The dog’s skin was raw all over her body, says Trenga, “especially on her belly and in her ears, and it was made worse by her constant itching, chewing, and licking. She was losing huge chunks of fur. She was also dehydrated because she refused to drink water. The first thing that happened when we started tapping was that she ran into the kitchen and drank several bowls of water.”

Using kinesiology, Trenga determined that the dog was reacting to corn in her food, grass outside, and several cleaning products in the house. She used AnimalTalk to strengthen the dog’s immune system, and when she returned two weeks later, the dog’s fur had grown back, her skin looked normal, her chewing had completely stopped, and the itching had almost disappeared. After their second session, the dog needed no further treatment.

“One of the things that I love about AnimalTalk,” she says, “is that you don’t have to work with the dog every week for a year. In most cases, two to four sessions correct the problem, and the dog’s body holds the memory of these adjustments so that no additional treatment is needed.” Trenga has used AnimalTalk to help dogs recover from accidents and injuries.

AnimalTalk training used to be available only to BodyTalk practitioners, but now pet lovers with no BodyTalk experience can take AnimalTalk workshops that demonstrate basic techniques for dealing with pet health problems, behavioral issues, and emergencies.

“Anyone can learn it, including kids,” says Trenga, who teaches AnimalTalk around the world. “It is a wonderful support therapy that’s compatible with veterinary care, and it can even neutralize old fears and traumas. My favorite example of this is a dog who was terrified of going out of the house because he had been attacked years before by another dog. The sight of his leash made him cower and tremble, and when he went outside to eliminate, he didn’t waste a minute and raced back in. At the end of our single session, he explored his backyard without any fear, and when his owner took him for a walk, he was completely relaxed and confident. It was as though the attack had never happened, and his fear has never returned.”

Emotional Freedom Techniques (EFT)
Gary Craig isn’t a trainer or veterinarian. In fact, he doesn’t even have a dog. But his acupressure tapping procedure called EFT (Emotional Freedom Techniques) has transformed the lives of countless dogs and their human companions.

EFT is one of several meridian therapies, so called because they are said to release blocks along the same energy paths used in acupuncture. According to Craig, the combination of focused thought and acupressure tapping releases energy blocks that contribute to behavioral problems, anxiety, pain, or illness while simultaneously releasing their underlying emotional causes.

Meridian therapies are often complicated, but EFT is so easy to use that small children teach it to one another. “Don’t let its simplicity fool you,” says Craig. “It’s used by thousands of healthcare practitioners, including medical doctors and veterinarians. In many cases, chronic and acute symptoms have resolved in a matter of minutes.”

ZEB Unit to Relieve Her Chronic Pain

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EFT’s tapping points and basic protocol are clearly described in the free EFT manual that is distributed online in 19 languages, and Craig’s inexpensive seminar DVDs provide impressive demonstrations. EFT classes and workshops are taught in several countries, and more than 50 books by a variety of authors describe the technique. These are remarkable statistics for a procedure that is only 10 years old.

Animals can be treated directly, by tapping on their acupuncture meridians while focusing on their condition, or they can be treated surrogately, by proxy. That is, you can tap on yourself while focusing on the dog.

Catherine O’Driscoll, an EFT practitioner in Scotland, did this with her Golden Retriever, Sophie, who had suffered from arthritis for several years.

“We helped her with nutrition, herbs, homeopathy, and acupuncture, but the arthritis never completely went away,” she says. “Finally, when she was 14, her front paws swelled up and knotted so much that they became deformed. I tapped on myself for her, and I couldn’t believe my eyes. The paws went down as though they were balloons letting out air. It was like a horror story special effect in reverse.

“I didn’t trust myself not to have imagined it,” O’Driscoll continues, “but Sophie was good enough to manifest the swollen paws a few weeks later while my sister was visiting. I again tapped for her while my sister and husband looked on. Again, we saw the swelling subside in front of our eyes. Sophie lived to the grand age of 17, and her arthritis never returned. She had also become deaf by age 14, but thanks to this wonderful energy therapy, she was able to hear again for the last years of her life.”

Christina Bequette, an EFT practitioner in Deer Trail, Colorado, first tried the technique with Stella, a 14-year-old Australian Shepherd/Red Heeler mix belonging to Patty Kemp-Cobb in Carbondale, Colorado. Stella constantly whined and pressed her head and body against Kemp-Cobb. “She had a reputation for biting and didn’t like to be touched,” says Bequette, “so I expected resistance, but Stella willingly let me tap on her, as if she knew I was there to help.”

Bequette focused on thoughts of not being loved, having things to say, and being ignored, and whatever else she could think of that might be a factor. “The best result came after I referred to the issue of Stella feeling invisible despite being recognized for her excellence as a cattle dog. The session lasted about 20 minutes, and to everyone’s astonishment, Stella quit whining. Not only that, but from then on she acted much more gentle and loving, no longer snapping or biting when touched. It was quite exciting to her human family, and now, two years later, they still talk about her transformation. Stella is almost 16, and her whining habit never came back.”

In 2002, California artist Lee Lawson was bothered by a neighbor’s dog, who barked all night, every night, for months. “The neighbor claimed not to hear it,” she says, “and so it went on and on and on. Then one night I did EFT on the situation. I focused on being a vibrational match to the barking dog, deeply and completely loving and accepting myself and the dog. The barking stopped immediately. About three hours later it started again and I tapped again. It stopped, and that was the last time the dog barked at night.”

Lawson also used surrogate tapping when she got a new puppy for everything from housebreaking (immediately accomplished) to sleeping through the night (which a single EFT treatment took care of). “I even used EFT to get her to pee on command after she noodled around for 15 minutes in the freezing cold,” says Lawson. “I’d start a single round of tapping for this and she would go before I could finish.”

Dozens of EFT practitioners in the U.S., Canada, Europe, South America, Asia, and Australia responded to my online requests for reports about how EFT has helped their dogs. They described EFT’s success with treating asthma, diabetes, heart disease, arthritis, kennel cough, injuries, and other physical ailments, as well as how rescued dogs adjusted to their new homes; how dogs who began fighting when a beloved family member moved out live in harmony again; how dogs overcame their fear of vacuum cleaners, thunder, and fireworks; how formerly aggressive dogs now stay calm and focused; and how competition dogs overcame physical or training problems to win their events.

Zero Energy Balancing (ZEB)
Three years ago, agility competitor Melissa Chandler of Galena, Ohio, suffered injuries in a car accident that hindered her mobility. She was referred to a massage therapist who used Zero Energy Balancing, or ZEB.

“I was amazed at how much this helped, and I purchased a ZEB unit for myself,” she says. “Then I learned about how the ZEB helps dogs from my holistic veterinarians, as they both use it in their practice.”

The ZEB, a tube of extruded plastic pipe containing diodes, was invented by retired aerospace engineer Cliff Stumbaugh. It comes in several models costing $150 to $450, the most popular of which is the $250 Ultimate Biofield ZEB, which Stumbaugh describes as an all-purpose energy device with a frequency range of 8Hz – 650Hz. “Its usage is ideal for balancing meridians and chakras, breaking up energy blockages, correcting general body dysfunctions, and using biofield resonance therapy,” he says. “It has an automatic mode of operation and comes complete with three auto-program modules.”

There are no moving parts in the ZEB, and it has no power source other than the naturally occurring energy that flows around it. “ZEB has a bioplasma radiation field around it comparable to a magnet,” the inventor explains. “It perpetuates itself by circulating plasma energy around itself from the output back to its input in one continuous process.”

What exactly is zero energy balance? According to Stumbaugh, a healthy human or animal biofield consists of flowing, unpolarized bioplasmic cells. When the biofield is blocked, negative, polarized bioplasmic cells exist. “The ZEB’s energy beam network attracts the negative bioplasmic cells from the subject’s biofield and accelerates these through the ZEB unit via its tuned cavity ring-down processor. Here the negative, polarized bioplasmic cells are depolarized and discharged out of the unit, thus creating a zero balance.” (And this is one of the manual’s simplest explanations!)

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“I use the ZEB on my dogs daily,” says Chandler. “You can use it to prevent injuries from becoming chronic problems, help with autoimmune and endocrine dysfunctions, assist digestion, treat diarrhea or constipation, test foods and supplements, and speed the healing of wounds or surgical incisions. The ZEB can be used to rid the system of pathogens, bacteria, and viruses.”

Programming the ZEB involves sticking a small note on one side of the tube and placing a cotton swab saliva sample from the person or animal being treated on the other. The note can list one or more numbers from the accompanying frequency/vector manual, or you can simply write the desired result in a circle. Then you move the tube over the affected body part for 10 to 15 seconds or, to treat the entire body, leave it next to the resting patient for 10 to 30 minutes.

This procedure is so unusual, it’s downright weird. Can it possibly work?

Betsey Lynch of Delaware, Ohio, believes it does. “I am an avid agility participant,” she says. “I bought my first ZEB in January 2005, prior to which two of my holistic vets used the ZEB on my dogs. I now have four ZEBs and use them all every day on my four Cavaliers and one Papillon to help with muscle repair and recovery from training and competition.”

Lynch’s current agility star is six-year-old Trouble. “Trouble has syringomyelia, or SM, which is a neurological condition that affects Cavaliers and some other toy breeds,” she says. “With daily use of the ZEB, Trouble has been able to run successfully and remain an active and happy little dog. I keep one ZEB dedicated to distance healing of the SM alone and believe it has kept her symptoms from progressing.”

Jan Knode in Apple Creek, Ohio, has been styling dogs since 1989, teaching and training in agility since 2001, and competing since 2002. She uses the ZEB to treat pain and injuries, eradicate skin parasites, and treat yeast infections.

“Last July a holistic vet who does energy work used the ZEB on my seven-year-old Doberman,” says Knode. “My girl was very sick and slept almost all the time. After the vet used the ZEB on her, for about an hour, off and on, Sere played in the van all the way home! Her body began to heal and she felt great. Since then, she has a lot more energy for agility and playing ball and Frisbee. It’s so nice to have my girl back.”

The ZEB is one of several devices that are said to correct physical and emotional conditions by concentrating or redirecting energy. From what we can determine, especially because it does not plug into an electrical outlet, use batteries, or have an external power source, the ZEB is unlikely to cause harm. Like the other energy therapies described here and in the four preceding articles in this “energy medicine” series, it might work or it might do nothing, but either way, it isn’t likely to damage the patient.

CJ Puotinen, a frequent Whole Dog Journal contributor, is the author of The Encyclopedia of Natural Pet Care, which describes several energy healing techniques. She is also an EFT instructor and practitioner.

Analyzing Dog Behavior and Puppy Behavior

[Updated March 18, 2016]

Hang with dog folks long enough and you’re sure to hear some pretty interesting theories about dog behavior. Some are, of course, useful and accurate, but the dog training world is littered with myths, many of which are at least several generations old. Some of them are just silly; some have the potential for causing serious damage to the dog-human relationship; and still others are downright dangerous. It’s time to get past the myths.

Socializing Puppies

Veterinary behaviorist Dr. Lore Haug of Sugar Land, Texas, recently compiled a comprehensive list of dog behavior myths. With her blessing, we’re sharing 10 of our “favorites” from her list, and explaining why these “busted” myths should not be used as the justification for a training or behavior modification technique. I am always exhorting my interns, apprentices, and clients to be critical thinkers. When someone offers you an alleged nugget of canine wisdom, regardless of who the someone is, you’re wise to run it through your own rigorous filters before accepting it as real wisdom or adopting it as the basis for a training technique. These should include:

A scientific filter. Does it make sense scientifically? If someone assures you that shock collar training is actually positive reinforcement training because the shock is no different than someone tapping you on the shoulder to get you to stop a behavior, does that concur with your understanding of positive reinforcement? (That a dog’s behavior makes a good thing happen, so the behavior increases.) Don’t be fooled by the euphemisms “e-collar” and “tingle,” “tap,” or “stim” for the word “shock.”

A philosophical filter. Is it congruent with your own philosophies about dog training and relationships? Positive punishment (dog’s behavior makes a bad thing happen; behavior decreases) makes sense from a scientific standpoint. That doesn’t mean you want to – or have to – use it with your dog, and risk the damage it can do to your relationship. Trainers with a positive training philosophy generally try to avoid the use of positive punishment, or any methods that work through the use of fear, pain, aversives, and avoidance.

An “acid test” filter. It may seem sound scientifically, and it may feel okay philosophically, but does it work? If you’re comfortable trying it out and you don’t like the results, feel free to continue on and explore why it’s not working or simply toss it out. Just because it works for someone else doesn’t mean it has to work for you.

Now, keeping these filters in mind, let’s see how some of the most common and harmful myths about canine behavior create a flawed foundation for training.

Myth #1: “Puppies should not go to puppy classes/the mall/friends’ houses until they have had all their vaccinations at 16 weeks/6 months of age.”

– Fails all three tests.

This one lands squarely at the top of the “dangerous myth” category. It’s generally perceived as credible by new puppy owners because it’s often offered by the pup’s veterinarian.

While it appears scientifically sound on its face (an unvaccinated puppy is at risk for contracting deadly diseases!), puppies who aren’t properly socialized are at a much greater risk for developing behavior problems, including aggression, that are likely to shorten their lives.

The vet is right on one hand; the best way to ensure that your pup isn’t exposed to dog germs is to avoid other dogs. It’s certainly true that you want to prevent your pup’s exposure to unknown and/or possibly unhealthy dogs (and their waste). But it’s also critically important that your pup get lots of exposure to the rest of the world, including healthy puppies in a controlled environment, before the critical socialization period ends at 12 to 16 weeks. If he doesn’t, he’ll be at risk of developing serious, sometimes deadly, behavior problems. (See “Puppy Training School,” Whole Dog Journal September 2007, for more information on early education for puppies.)

In addition, during the period leading up to the age of four to six months, your pup has protection from his mother’s immunities, and should receive “puppy shots” to cover that period of time when his mother’s protection starts to decrease. Not only is it “okay” to take your pup places while exercising reasonable caution, you have an obligation to provide him with extensive socialization in order to maximize his chances of leading a long and happy life.

Myth #2: “Dogs pull on leash, jump up on people, (add your own) because they are dominant.”

– Fails scientific and philosophical tests.

Like the first myth discussed, this one can be dangerous, because those who believe this myth are likely to believe that they need to use forceful methods to assert their status over their “dominant” dogs.

No one disputes that dogs living in a group understand and respond to the concepts and dictates of a social hierarchy. The fact that canine social structures share elements with human social structures is probably one of the reasons that dogs make such wonderful companions for us. However, most experts in animal behavior today believe that canine social hierarchies are much more based on deference than dominance, and that most canine behavior that many misguided humans attribute to dominance . . . isn’t!

A dog’s goal in life is to make good stuff happen. Behaviors often labeled “dominant” because they are perceived as pushy and assertive – like pulling on leash and jumping up – simply persist because the dog has learned that the behaviors are reinforced; they make good stuff happen. Pulling on leash gets her where she wants to go. Jumping up gets attention. Behaviors that are reinforced continue, and even increase – but they have nothing to do with social status.

If you remove all reinforcement for the unwelcome behaviors (pulling makes us stop; jumping up makes attention go away) and reinforce more appropriate behaviors in their place, the dog will change her behavior.

Myth #3: “If you let your dog sleep on the bed/eat first/go through doors first/win at tug-o-war, he will become the alpha.”

– Fails all three tests.

This one is mostly just silly. Some sources even suggest that the entire family must gather in the kitchen and take turns buttering and eating a cracker before the dog can be fed. Seriously!

See Myth #2 for the mythbusting response to this one. If you don’t want your dog on the furniture, that’s your lifestyle choice, but you don’t need to defend it with the alpha-garbage argument. I feed my dogs before I eat so I don’t have to feel guilty about them being hungry while I fill my own belly. I teach my dogs to sit and wait for permission to go through the door (“say please!”) because it’s a polite, safe behavior and reinforces deference, but not because I’m terrified that they’ll take over the house. And I like to win tug-o-war a lot because it reinforces polite behavior. You can quit worrying about your dog becoming alpha just because you don’t rule with an iron first.

If you are concerned that your dog is too pushy you can implement a “Say Please” program, where your dog asks politely for all good things by sitting – a nice, polite, deference behavior (see “Why Force-Based Training is Not Advocated,” August 2003). If you think your dog is potentially aggressive, it’s even more important to avoid conflict; your attempts to physically dominate him are likely to escalate his aggression rather than resolve it. (See “Puppies Who Deomonstrate “Alpha” Behavior,” July 2006.) If aggression is a real concern, we recommend you consult with a qualified, positive behavior professional who can help you modify your dog’s behavior without the use of force.

Myth #4: “Dogs can’t learn from positive reinforcement. You have to punish them so they know when they are wrong.”

– Fails scientific and philosophical tests; fails acid test unless punisher is very skilled.

This myth has good potential for causing serious harm to the canine-human relationship. Research confirms what positive trainers hold dear: that positive reinforcement training is more effective and has far fewer risks than positive reinforcement training combined with positive punishment.

One study, conducted by scientists at the University of Southampton in the UK and the University of Life Sciences in Norway, evaluated whether punishment was a contributor to behavior problems, and examined the effects of reward, punishment, and rule structure (permissiveness/strictness and consistency) on training and behavior problems. Information was collected via questionnaires from 217 dog guardians. Those who used strong and/or frequent punishment had a significantly higher level of training problems and lower obedience in their dogs. A similar study, conducted at Britain’s University of Bristol, also found that dogs trained only with positive reinforcement exhibited fewer problem behaviors.

For most humans, this makes sense. Do you learn better if someone acknowledges (and rewards) you when you do it right, or slaps you upside the head when you do it wrong? Even if you get rewarded for doing it right, if you also get slapped for doing it wrong, your fear of getting slapped will likely impede your learning and make you more reluctant to try things.

Of course, a good positive training program makes use of management to avoid giving the dog opportunities to be reinforced for unwanted behaviors, and will also make judicious use of negative punishment (dog’s behavior makes a good thing go away) to let him know he made an unrewarding behavior choice.

For more information on why training programs that utilize positive reinforcement are most effective, see “Dog Training Using Positive Techniques,” January 2007.

Myth #5: “If you use treats to train, you will always need them.”

– Fails all three tests.

This just isn’t true. A good positive training program will quickly “fade” the use of food as a constant reinforcer while moving to a schedule of intermittent reinforcement and expanding the repertoire of reinforcers to include things like toys, play, petting, praise, and the opportunity to perform some other highly reinforcing behavior.

Treats can be a very high-value reinforcer and quite useful in training a wide variety of behaviors, so it’s plain silly to turn your back on them. Just be sure to fade food lures quickly in a training program, move to an intermittent schedule of reinforcement when your dog will perform a behavior on cue 8 out of 10 times, and incorporate a variety of reinforcers so you’re never dependent on any one particular reward choice. (For more information about how some people might fail when applying positive training techniques the wrong way, see “Common Dog Training Mistakes,” May 2007.)

Myth #6: “A dog who urinates inside/destroys the house/barks when he is left alone does so because he is spiteful.”

– Fails the scientific and philosophical tests.

This myth definitely causes harm to the dog-human relationship. Dogs don’t do things out of spite, and to think so gives owners a negative perspective on their relationship with their canine family member. Dogs do things because they feel good, they work to make good stuff happen (or to make bad stuff go away), or because they are reacting to events that occur in their environment. While our dogs share much the same range of emotions as we humans, they don’t seem to indulge in all the same motives. Spite requires a certain amount of premeditation and cognitive thinking that science doesn’t support as being evident in the canine behavior repertoire.

Dog Begging

There are two rational explanations for the behaviors described in this myth. The first is that the dog isn’t fully housetrained and hasn’t yet learned house manners. In the absence of direct supervision, the dog urinates when he has a full bladder (an empty bladder feels good) and becomes destructive because playing with/chewing sofa cushions, shoes, ripping down curtains, tipping over the garbage, and barking are fun and rewarding activities.

The other explanation is that the dog suffers from some degree of isolation distress. These behaviors are often a manifestation of stress and the dog’s attempt to relieve his anxiety over being left alone. If your dog regularly urinates (or worse) in the house or destroys things when he is left alone, he may be suffering from a moderate degree of isolation distress, or more severe separation anxiety. This condition can worsen without appropriate management. For more information, see “Relieving Separation Anxiety Symptoms,” August 2001 – and consider a consultation with an animal behavior specialist.

Myth #7: “If you feed a dog human food, he will learn to beg at the table.”

– Fails all three tests.

This is silly! One dog owner’s “begging” is another’s “attention” behavior, eagerly sought-after and highly valued. Behaviors that are reinforced continue and/or increase. If you fed your dog his own dog food from the table, he would learn to beg at the table. It has nothing to do with what type of food he’s being fed! If you don’t want your dog to beg at the table, don’t feed your dog from the table.

Whole Dog Journal readers know full well that human-grade food is better for dogs than much of the junk that’s in many brands of dog food. Whether it’s fed in a form that we recognize as something we might consume, or it’s been transformed into something that more resembles our mental concept of “dog food,” it all still comes from the same basic food ingredients.

Myth #8: “He knows he was bad/did wrong because he looks guilty.”

– Fails all three tests.

This myth is damaging to the relationship, as it leads owners to hold dogs to a moral standard that they aren’t capable of possessing. When a dog looks “guilty,” he is most likely responding to a human’s tense or angry body language with appeasement behaviors. He’s probably thinking something like, “I don’t know why, but my human looks upset. I’d better offer some appeasement behaviors so her anger isn’t directed at me!” Even when the “guilty” expression is a direct and immediate result of your dog’s behavior because your punishment was timely – “Hey! Get out of the garbage!” -your dog’s turned head, lowered body posture, averted eyes – are simply an acknowledgement of your anger and his attempt to reconcile with you.

A trainer friend of mine once did an experiment to convince a client that her dearly held “guilty look” belief was a myth. He had the client hold her dog in the living room while he went into the kitchen and dumped the garbage can on the floor, strewing its contents nicely around the room. Then he had the client bring the dog into the kitchen. Sure enough, the dog “acted guilty” even though he had nothing to do with the garbage on the floor. He just knew from past experience that “garbage on floor” turned his owner into an angry human, and he was already offering appeasement behavior in anticipation of her anger, and to divert her ire from his dog-self. (For more information about canine body language, see “Understanding How Dogs Communicate with Each Other,” April 2006.)

Finally, most owners who have punished a dog for something that was done in their absence can attest to the fact that the punishment generally does not prevent the dog from repeating the behavior another time. What does work is simple management. Put the garbage somewhere that the dog can’t get to it; under a sink with a safety latch on it, for example. Keep counters clear of anything edible. Leave the dog in a part of the house that is comfortable but not easily destroyed. Hire a dog walker to come by in the middle of your dog’s longest days home alone to let him out, give him some stress-relieving exercise, and leave him with a food-filled chew toy. These actions will result in an intact home – and a dog who is not afraid to greet you when you return.

Myth #9: The prong collar works by mimicking a mother dog’s teeth and her corrections.

– Fails the scientific and philosophical tests.

It’s a little discouraging to think that people actually believe this myth. It would be silly if it weren’t so potentially damaging to the relationship and potentially dangerous as well.

Prong collars work because the prongs pressing into the dog’s neck are uncomfortable at best, painful at worst. Because dogs will work to avoid pain and discomfort, the prong collar does work to stop a dog from pulling on the leash, and can shut down other undesirable behaviors as well, at least temporarily. However, like all training tools and techniques that are based on pain and intimidation, there is a significant risk of unintended consequences.

In the case of the prong collar, the primary risk is that the dog will associate the pain with something in his environment at the time he feels it, and this can lead to aggression toward the mistakenly identified cause. A dog’s unmannerly, “I want to greet you” lunge toward another dog or person can turn into, “I want to eat you,” if he decides that the object of his attention is hurting him.

If you have used or are considering the use of a prong collar to control your dog, please consult with a qualified positive behavior consultant to learn about more effective and less potentially harmful methods.

Myth #10: “Aggressive/hand-shy/fearful dogs must have been abused at some point in their lives.”

– Fails the scientific test.

This is a very widespread myth; I hear it so often it makes my brain hurt. Fortunately, while the behaviors described in this myth are problematic, the myth itself may be the most benign of our top 10.

There are many reasons a dog may be aggressive, hand-shy, or fearful. Lack of proper socialization tops the list, especially for fearfulness. If a pup doesn’t get a wide variety of positive social exposures and experiences during the first 12 to 14 weeks of his life, he’s likely to be neophobic – afraid of new things – for the rest of his life (see Myth #1). This neophobia manifests as fear, and for some dogs, as fear-related aggression.

Widely accepted categories of aggression include:

• Defensive (fear-related) aggression
• Possession aggression (resource-guarding)
• Maternal aggression
• Territorial aggression
• Status-related aggression
• Pain-related aggression
• Protection aggression
• Predatory aggression
• Play aggression
• Idiopathic (we don’t know what causes it) aggression

Note that there’s no category for “abuse-related” aggression. Abuse can be one of several causes of fear-related/defensive aggression, but is much less common than the fear-related aggression that results from undersocialization.

Regardless of the cause of a dog’s fearful or aggressive behavior, a myth-corollary to our Myth #10 is that love alone will be enough to “fix” the problem. While love is a vital ingredient for the most successful dog-human relationships, it takes far more than that to help a fearful dog become confident, or an aggressive one become friendly. For more about rehabilitating a chronically fearful dog, see “Reducing Your Dog’s Anxieties,” April 2007.

Pat Miller, CPDT, is Whole Dog Journal’s Training Editor. She is the author of The Power of Positive Dog Training and Positive Perspectives: Love Your Dog, Train Your Dog.

Canine Earth Energy Healing

Who doesn’t have at least one quartz crystal, turquoise pendant, jade figurine, or amethyst geode? You probably have a strand of beads, too, maybe aventurine, bloodstone, citrine, coral, garnet, or sodalite. What you may not realize is that, according to crystal enthusiasts, these items can help both you and your dog improve your health, balance your emotions, and enhance your quality of life.

Whether they’re novelty items or elegant jewelry, crystals – precious and semiprecious gems as well as humble stones and river rocks – have been valued for thousands of years for their healing and aesthetic properties. The more people explore the use of crystals, stones, and gems, the more their dogs, cats, horses, and other animals are likely to benefit from this branch of energy medicine. Your pets can sleep near crystals, wear them, drink water that has been “charged” by crystals, and in other ways receive the energy that is said to be unique to each type of stone.

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Crystal healing is especially popular in the United Kingdom, where practitioners match human and animal clients with stones that best support their conditions. Sara Hope Brown, who lives in Fife, Scotland, designs clip-on crystals that attach to a dog’s collar. Her own white Standard Poodle, Jody, was a rescued dog with many emotional problems until Brown fitted her with quartz clip-ons. She reports that as a result of wearing the crystals, Jody is now calm and self-confident.

“Rose quartz is the crystal that balances the emotions,” she says. “I recommend it for rescued pets, pets who are on their own a lot, and animals who are nervous or worried. Amethyst crystals help animals deal with physical problems such as illness, skin conditions, arthritis, and the slowing down that accompanies old age. Clear quartz crystals produce positive changes in pets that improve behavioral problems like excessive barking or aggression.”

Do the crystals work? Brown’s satisfied clients think so. Consider Cleo, a three-year-old German Shepherd mix who was nervous and aggressive. According to her owner, Jean Beveridge, “One week after wearing the rose and clear quartz crystals, she has become much calmer and more at peace with those around her.”

Many users report that after wearing crystals, their dogs became relaxed, more amenable to training, and even friendlier. Angela White says that her dog, Jasmine, refused to go out for walks, didn’t like strangers, and never seemed to have much fun. That all changed when she began wearing a rose quartz crystal. “Now she happily goes for walks and even wanders over to people,” says White. “She often runs about playing, which she rarely did before. I was very skeptical about these crystals working, but they have made a difference to Jasmine.”

Christine Waddell bought an amethyst crystal for her 11-year-old Bichon, Biggles, who suffered from aching joints in his legs and hips. “Since putting the crystal on his collar,” she says, “his pain and discomfort have improved dramatically and he is moving much more comfortably. Recently the crystal fell off and within a short period I noticed that Biggles’ discomfort and pain had returned, though not so badly as previously. Needless to say, I had the crystal replaced and now have a happier dog because of it.”

Other guardians report improvements in eczema, rough skin, dry flakey skin, abscesses, sores, allergic reactions; and stress and anxiety.

“Energy healing works upon the electromagnetic field that surrounds us,” explains Brown, “which includes the emotional, mental, and physical bodies. Disruptions in the normal flow of energy eventually lead to physical illness and psychological symptoms. Pets who wear all three of my clip-on crystals are kept emotionally, physically, and mentally balanced, and results are seen in a short time.”

Using crystals
Hundreds of stones and crystals are used to improve health and happiness, so it makes sense to consult a reference book or crystal healing practitioner for help in selecting the right one for your pet.

One way to impart crystal energy to your dog is by attaching or placing a stone or crystal in a corner of her crate, on top of the crate, under her bedding (be sure that any sharp crystal points are padded so they don’t irritate), or on a sunny window sill. Stones can also be placed on the floor near your sleeping dog.

“Simply placing crystals in your home environment can help you and your pet reduce stress and fear, balance emotions, energize the physical body, clear energy blockages, calm the mind, and reach expanded states of consciousness,” says lapidary artist Michelle Buckler of Lewes, Delaware, who uses gold and silver wire to wrap or frame stones and crystals, making them easy to hang from or attach to crates, walls, windows, or furniture.

Because dogs are so sensitive to energy, she says, it’s important to be balanced, centered, and grounded yourself before positioning crystals. Introduce crystals in a quiet, comfortable environment, take some deep breaths, relax, and enjoy the experience. Watch for signs of stress in your dog, such as changes in ear or tail position, rising hackles, or turning away.

“Crystal healing can sometimes be too fast for the animal to integrate, or so intense that it causes pain and other discomfort,” she explains. “As crystal energy promotes rapid healing, easing off can help alleviate the stress caused by a healing crisis. When the healing is going well, the dog will show signs of comfort and affection, such as eyelids drooping, sighing, and a general softening of muscle tissues.”

An easy way to apply crystal energy to your pet, Buckler suggests, is to warm a crystal in the sun, then hold it a few inches from the injured or affected area and rotate the crystal clockwise. “Take your time,” she says. “Go slowly and breathe gently and evenly. If you are using an ice bag to reduce swelling, try adding a few tumbled smoky quartz crystals to the ice to help unblock over-active or inflamed areas.”

Vibrational animal healer Chris Anderson of Kittridge, Colorado, prefers river stones, which are often called balsamic stones when they are used in spas for “hot stone” massage therapy. “I warm the stones in hot water and then use them as an extension of my hand to massage the dog,” she says. “These stones have their own healing energy, and by going in deep with that extra warmth, you can really help sore muscles and arthiritic conditions. Look for your own smooth, flat river stones or buy them from a massage supply store.”

Another way to use crystals is to leave them in your dog’s water bowl or bucket, making sure they can’t be swallowed. The crystals are said to leave their energy signature in the water so that when the water is ingested, the energy goes where it is most needed. Note that some crystals, such as malachite, are for external use only; they are toxic if swallowed. Use only stones that are known to be safe in your dog’s water dish. Consult an expert if you aren’t sure.

As mentioned in “Canine Energy Healing Techniques” (WDJ November 2007), gem elixirs or crystal essences can be made and used the same way as flower essences.

Clearing and charging
It’s easy to think of stones and crystals as static and unchanging, but according to energy experts, rocks and minerals are alive in their own way. Stones can transmit or give off energy, absorb energy, channel and redirect energy, or simply support other stones.

Over time – in some cases a very short time – crystals that absorb or give off energy can lose their effectiveness or wear out. As a result of exposure to electromagnetic pollution, physical pain, negative emotional energy, or other imbalances, they may become darker, feel sticky to the touch, change color, or develop cracks, fissures, bubbles, cloudiness, or spots. On an energetic level, crystals feel weaker and less lively as these changes occur..

Fortunately, there are ways to cleanse or “clear” crystals, stones, and river rocks. Any of these methods can be used when you first obtain the item and again whenever needed. They include holding a crystal in both hands under cold running water for half a minute or more, burning dried sage leaves in a bowl or shell and passing the crystal through its fragrant smoke, soaking or dipping crystals in sage tea or salt water, breathing on crystals by exhaling slowly through the nose, leaving them out in the rain or sun, burying them in the earth for a few days or weeks, gently washing them with soap (not harsh detergent) and warm (not hot) water, or simply leaving them in the open air. To prevent damage to crystals that might be adversely affected by salt water or long-term soaking, try a brief soak or dip followed by a plain water rinse and air drying.

Crystals worn by dogs should be cleared often, such as every day, and stones used in massage or healing sessions should be cleared after every use to maintain their effectiveness.

To “charge” crystals with positive energies, clear them first and then repeatedly exhale on the crystals, leave them in direct sun for several hours, place them under a pyramid for a day or two, leave them outdoors in snowstorms, thunderstorms, or other dynamic weather conditions, or simply charge the stones with your concentrated intention, affirming that they are filled with love and a positive life force. Sara Brown charges her clip-on crystals with positive energy before sending them to clients, then recharges them daily by sending healing thoughts to animals wearing them.

Crystal collars
In Minneapolis, Minnesota, Mary Ann Field, a canine massage therapist, craniosacral therapist for humans, and Master of Crystalogy, has turned crystal collars for pets into a thriving business.

“The whole idea started 10 years ago with one of my Australian Shepherds,” she says. “She had so many physical problems that I wanted to find a way to help reduce her chronic pain. I knew a crystal expert and had already gotten good results for my own pain by using stones, so I thought crystals might help.”

Her husband, Brink, helped Field make crystal collars by stringing beads on cotton cord attached to copper wire clasps. Their two Aussies tested collars until the results were sturdy enough for daily wear.

“Both dogs were rescues,” she says, “and this gave us a chance to experiment with stones that addressed their emotional issues. We worked with our own dogs until we got the results we wanted, and then we started sharing the collars with friends.”

Now the Fields’ business, Pelli’s Castle Works, sells a variety of collars made for dogs of all sizes. These collars typically contain two or three types of stones that work well together, she says, sometimes using the dogs’ birth month as a guide.

“It’s interesting how at dog shows, people who pick up the different collars can feel their differences, even when they are new to crystals. Some of the collars feel calming, some are energizing, some are serious, and some just feel fun. Moss agate and blue lace agate are both soothing as well as pretty. Some of the heavier dark stones, like hematite or jasper, are grounding. Others, like tiger’s eye and citrine, are happy stones that channel positive energy. Whenever possible, we suggest showing different collars to dogs so they can select the one they want. You can also do this at home with individual stones.”

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In addition to making birth month collars, Field custom-designs collars for dogs with specific issues. For dogs with separation anxiety, for example, she favors agates for their calming influence, red tiger’s eye for increased confidence, tiger iron for a feeling of safety and security, and lapis lazuli for the instantaneous release of stress.

“I’d use a lot of the same stones that people use when meditating,” she says, “like kyanite and chrysoprase. Then I’d add jasper. There are many kinds and colors of jasper, and they each have their own application, but they all support and strengthen the physical body. Because anxiety is often linked to blocked energy in the body, I’d finish with bloodstone to help clear the blocks.”

For dogs competing in agility or other sports, Field emphasizes howlite, a stone associated with communication. “It helps dogs concentrate and focus,” she says, “plus it helps them work well with their handlers, and it reduces the goofiness and distractibility that can interfere with competition. I’d put fluorite in there, too, because fluorite is called the IQ stone. It really assists the thought processes. Zebra stone is great for athletes because it helps with stamina, endurance, and support of the physical body. I’d probably add some protective stones like black onyx and hematite to help prevent injury.”

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Field’s goal is to include as many appropriate stones as possible without making the collar overwhelming. “That’s why I check intuitively with the animals, to know what they’re comfortable with and what they can take,” she says.

She advises humans to keep an open mind when it comes to energy medicine. “Our attitude toward energy healing affects how it works. Dogs are extremely sensitive, and if you disapprove of this technique or know that it isn’t going to work, your dog will pick up on that and it will change the outcome.”

When dogs don’t like crystals
While most dogs take to crystals right away, not all of them do. Some dogs turn away from crystals and don’t want anything to do with them; some become restless and uncomfortable if a crystal is attached to their collar or they are fitted with a crystal collar.

“The first time this happened with one of our collars,” says Field, “the dog responded with extreme fatigue. Within five minutes, she laid down and couldn’t raise her head. It was as though the collar became extremely heavy. This dog was diagnosed with cancer a short time later; I assume her illness contributed to this extreme reaction.”

When a second dog showed a similar response, Field was ready. “What I learned was that when the stones absorb so much negative energy so quickly, the best way to use the collar is to put it on for a few minutes, then clear the stones for 24 hours or so, then put it on again for a few minutes, and clear them again.”

The second dog had serious health problems, but by following this strategy, he was able to wear the collar for a few more minutes each time. After two months, he was comfortable wearing it all day.

Field notes that in some cases, crystals trigger physical symptoms similar to homeopathy’s healing crisis – for example, a dog with a history of ear infections or hot spots might suddenly show these symptoms – in which case the crystals should be removed, cleansed, and reintroduced gradually.

“Best crystals” for dogs
If you’d like to experiment with crystals, consider these eight stones, which are highly recommended for dogs.

“Rose quartz is number one,” says Field. “It’s all about love and balance, and it’s very powerful. If you have five or six dogs and there are territorial issues, put rose quartz in their water dish.”

Amethyst, she says, is the second most powerful healing stone. “It’s very protective, soothes the emotions, and stimulates physical healing.”

Field’s third choice is fluorite, the IQ stone. “It helps with focus and concentration and it also absorbs and dissipates electromagnetic stress from our indoor and outdoor environments.” Quartz is next on the list. “There are several kinds of quartz and all of them protect, rejuvenate, energize, balance energy, boost immunity, and support the animal,” says Field. “I like quartz clusters rather than individual crystals because they’re more concentrated and effective.”

Citrine belongs in your dog’s crystal collection, says Field, because it gives off positive energy. “It’s all about happiness, well-being, prosperity, and everything that’s fun and upbeat.” Her next recommendation is blue lace agate, a soothing, calming stone that quickly releases stress. “Blue lace agate belongs in any house with multiple animals or wherever conditions are stressful. Like most of the stones on this list, it works wonders in the dog’s water bowl.”

Rhodochrosite, she says, is important for those with rescued animals. “It helps heal emotional and physical trauma.”

Her final recommendation is malachite. “This is especially good for dogs with physical injuries,” she says. “It helps relieve physical pain. Place it on the sore area and hold it there for a few minutes, then clear it, then reapply. It works almost like icing an injury. Do this for five or ten minutes at a time two or three times per day. Just remember that malachite is toxic if swallowed, so don’t leave it in your dog’s water bowl and never let your dog play with malachite crystals.”

Healing with Mother Earth
Since time began, animals have lived in direct contact with the earth. Their feet were always on the ground, they always breathed open air, and the sun and moon illuminated their days and nights.

Even after their human companions moved into houses, most dogs lived outdoors. Now people and their pets are indoor creatures. Sure, dogs go for walks and enjoy other outdoor activities, but, like most of us, our dogs often spend more than 20 hours a day inside.

According to energy experts, indoor living takes a toll. For one thing, it disrupts our exposure to unfiltered natural light, which is needed by the hypothalamus and other glands for endocrine balance and optimum health. Whenever possible, give your dog access to natural light by letting him stay outdoors or near an open window or on a screened porch. The location doesn’t have to be sunny; in fact, shade is preferable. What matters is that nothing interfere with the full spectrum of natural light, such as glass windows or patio doors.

For a fascinating look at the health benefits of unfiltered light, see Health and Light: The Effects of Natural and Artificial Light on Man and Other Living Things by John Ott. A pioneer of time-lapse photography, Ott discovered the vital role that natural light plays in the lives of plants and animals. Without it, plants can’t set fruit, animals have reproductive problems, and humans and animals develop a variety of modern illnesses, including cancer.

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Indoor lighting adds to the problem. Glass windows screen out ultraviolet light, which is a crucial part of the spectrum, but fluorescent and incandescent bulbs are incomplete in other ways. Any lights that change the appearance of colors, so that red lipstick looks black or other colors look distorted, are an extreme example, but even “sunlight” bulbs that look white because the yellow part of the spectrum has been removed can adversely affect the body. It’s ironic that the fluorescent lights being touted for their energy efficiency may, according to light researchers, create a host of new health problems, while none of the bulbs labeled “full spectrum” include the complete spectrum of natural light.

For your dog’s continuing or improved health, outdoor natural light is best, followed by indoor window light, followed by standard incandescent bulbs, followed by “natural light” or “full-spectrum” fluorescent tubes or incandescent bulbs, followed by tinted fluorescent or incandescent lights, with energy-efficient fluorescents last on your shopping list.

Earthing
Another way in which 21st century people and dogs are disconnected from Mother Earth is by modern building materials. When we stand barefoot on bare earth, grass, sand, gravel, or concrete, our bodies absorb a constant flow of free electrons. When we’re indoors, in our cars, or walking on rubber-soled shoes, we’re insulated from the earth’s energy flow.

“Disrupting the natural flow of energy from the earth may have negative biological effects,” says health researcher Dale Teplitz of San Diego. “That’s because the earth’s free electrons are essential for synchronizing biological clocks, hormone cycles, and physiological rhythms.”

There may be a link between our lack of direct contact with the earth and common inflammatory conditions like arthritis, allergies, heart disease, diabetes, digestive disorders, hormone imbalances, and others.

If your dog spends most of the day and all of the night indoors, do what you can to increase his time outside. Resting or playing in a fenced yard is perfect, as are long walks, hikes, and swims. Direct contact with the earth may be especially important at night, when the earth’s effects on human and animal health is said to be most powerful.

For those not able to sleep on the ground, EarthingTM technology products provide contact with the earth even when you’re indoors. Bedding products containing conductive materials are connected to the earth by a wire that transmits the earth’s free electrons. Medical thermal imaging has shown in before-and-after photos of human subjects that Earthing significantly reduces inflammation in painful joints and increases blood flow to circulation-impaired hands and feet.

Earthing bed pads fit across a bed’s bottom sheet so that the sleeper’s bare feet rest on the pad, which plugs into a grounded outlet. Many who have used these washable bed pads report reduced pain and muscle tension along with improved sleep.

While a pet version of the Earthing bed pad is not yet commercially available, in the summer of 2007 Teplitz conducted an eight-week preliminary clinical trial of a prototype pad for pets. Questionnaires completed by caregivers showed that in most cases, indoor dogs with arthritis, back pain, fatigue, anxiety, hip dysplasia, chronic coughs, old injuries, or other common problems experienced improvements in energy, stamina, flexibility, muscle tone, calmness, pain levels, and sleep.

One trial participant is Chip, an eight-year-old retired racing Greyhound belonging to Roberta Mikkelsen of Pearl River, New York. Chip limped because of old racing injuries to all four legs and he was anxious and afraid of thunder, fireworks, and other loud noises.

After three weeks of sleeping on an Earthing pad, Chip stopped panting, pacing, shaking, and hiding during storms. Instead, he calmly walked into the bedroom and fell asleep. He even slept through Fourth of July fireworks. Because of leg pain, Chip couldn’t get into the car or jump onto the couch for an entire year. “Now, thanks to the Earthing pad, he does both all the time,” says Mikkelsen. “He’s more playful, jumps and runs more, limps much less, tolerates longer walks, and has far more energy than before.”

“Earthing is a new technology,” says Teplitz, “so we’re still collecting information, but it’s safe to suggest that any dog will feel better if he or she spends more time walking, playing, or resting on the bare earth.”

CJ Puotinen, a frequent contributor to WDJ, is the author of The Encyclopedia of Natural Pet Care, which describes several energy healing techniques. See “Resources,” page 24, for more information.

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Proper Dog-to-Dog Introductions in the Home

[Updated December 18, 2018]

DOG INTRODUCTION OVERVIEW

1. Evaluate your own dogs and make wise choices about new canine family members.

2. Plan your introductions – time, place, and process – to optimize your potential for success in adding a new dog to your existing pack.

3. Enlist the aid of a professional behavior consultant, or knowledgeable friend, to help handle dogs during introductions and ensure the safety of all participants.

You’re contemplating the addition of another canine family member to your pack. You’ve thought it through and are convinced that it’s the right time. Perhaps you have your eye on a homeless dog at your local shelter or a rescue dog staying temporarily in a foster home. Maybe the long-awaited puppy from that carefully researched breeder is due soon, or a friend or family member has asked you to take in a dog that they must rehome. However you plan to acquire your new canine companion, if you already have dogs in your home, you’ll need to prepare for the potentially stressful process known as “new dog introduction.”

Such was the case for us recently when my husband Paul, director of the Humane Society of Washington County, Maryland, warned me that he was falling for Missy, an eight-year-old red merle Australian Shepherd who had been surrendered by her owner to the shelter. Even before our decision to bring her home was final, knowing the importance of dog-dog introductions, I began planning the introduction process.

On-Leash Greetings

There are a number of factors to keep in mind that can increase the likelihood of a positive outcome when introducing a new dog into your home. A peaceful first introduction sets the stage for long term relationships. The more heavily you can weigh the odds in your favor for that first encounter, the greater your chance for lifelong peace in the pack. The factors to keep in mind include:

• Timing

• Location

• Number of skilled handlers available

• Knowing and understanding – to the greatest extent possible – the personalities and histories of all the dogs involved

With four dogs already in our family, including Dubhy, our dog-reactive Scottish Terrier, new-dog introductions aren’t simple. Fortunately, we’ve done it enough to know where the high-risk danger zones are with our pack, how best to avoid or overcome them, and how to make optimum use of the above factors.

Timing of Dog Introductions Matter

It’s best to add a new dog to your home when things are otherwise calm and reasonably stress-free. Allow ample time for a leisurely introduction process and a low-key adjustment period with adequate supervision. You’ll also need time to be able to iron out any wrinkles that may appear. This may mean taking time off work, in case your dogs don’t hit it off instantly. Holidays are generally not the ideal time for introductions unless, for you, “home for the holidays,” means lots of quiet time spent alone with your fur-family.

Of course, you can’t always control the timing. Many breeders and adopters have a fairly inflexible preconceived idea of the appropriate age at which a puppy should be transferred to his forever home. A friend or family member may be under personal pressures – landlord dictums, relationship issues, risks to children in the home, or municipal limit laws or breed bans – that require prompt rehoming.

Introducing Missy

A shelter or rescue dog may be facing a ticking clock that dictates a speedy adoption. An outbreak of parvovirus at Paul’s shelter meant that Missy had to come home posthaste, to avoid her exposure to the very contagious disease.

The timing could have been better. I was two days away from hosting a Reactive Rover Camp at my home. This meant that it would be out of the question to temporarily keep the barking Aussie in a stall in the barn – where my training center is located – in order to facilitate slow introductions over a several day period with Paul in attendance. I knew Missy’s barking would render the training environment too stressful for reactive dogs to stay sub-threshold and respond well to our counter-conditioning and desensitization program. We had to get the job done quickly, in order to transition the new girl into our family and our house.

The Best Place to Introduce Dogs

It’s best to introduce dogs in neutral territory – ideally outdoors, in a large, open, safely fenced space. The more trapped a dog feels, the more her stress will push her toward defensive aggression. Plus, when you do introductions in one dog’s territory, it gives him the home-field advantage, and you risk displays of territorial aggression.

Border Collie

Optimum options include a fenced yard other than your own, an off-leash dog park at low-use time (as in no other dogs present), a tennis court (caution – many tennis courts understandably prohibit dogs), or a large, open, uncluttered indoor area such as someone’s unfinished basement.

Our only large, fenced, outdoor open space is our backyard, to which our dogs had, naturally, already staked a territorial claim. Our next best choice for introductions was the training center – a 20′ x 80′ space with very little furniture. We opted for that space for Missy to meet three of our dogs, and the backyard for the fourth.

Number of Skilled Dog Handlers

Ideally, you’ll want one handler per dog. One skilled handler, that is. Someone who panics and intervenes unnecessarily can botch the whole job by adding stress to dogs who are still sorting out relationships.

Appropriate On-Leash Greeting

Barring skilled handlers, at least find handlers who are good at following instructions and don’t succumb easily to hysterical behavior. If you can’t find those, you’re better off with fewer handlers, although you should have at least one other person present, if for no other reason then to help you if the situation gets out of hand.

Life is rarely ideal. Because of our truncated time frame for introductions with Missy, our options for multiple handlers were limited. Paul had to work, my other trainers weren’t available, so it was up to me and my full-time associate, Shirley, to play referee for our pack introductions. I was only really worried about Dubhy’s reaction to Missy; it’s difficult to predict how he’ll respond to a new dog, but we have added two canines to our family successfully since the emergence of his dog reactive/aggressive behavior, so my hopes were high.

Each Dog’s Personality and History

You may not know much about the newcomer, especially if she’s a rescue or shelter dog. You should, however, have a pretty good sense of your own dogs’ canine social skills. Do they play well with others at the dog park? During playtime at good manners class? With their own packmates? How do they act with doggie visitors to their home? During chance encounters with other canines on the streets?

If you have reason to believe that your dogs are anything less than gregarious with conspecifics (others of their own species) due to a history of aggressive behavior with other dogs, or if you just aren’t confident about refereeing the introductions yourself, you might do well to engage the services of a qualified behavior professional. She will be able to help you read and understand your dogs’ body language, and optimize the potential for success. (For more information about translating canine body language, see “Understanding How Your Dog Communicates“, and “Properly Interpreting Your Dog’s Body Language“.

I hope you’ve already given great consideration to good personality matches when you selected your new dog. If you have a dog in your pack who likes to assert himself, you’re wise to choose a new dog who’s happy to maintain a lower profile in the hierarchy. If your current dog is a shrinking violet, she’ll be happiest with a new companion who doesn’t bully her mercilessly. If you have one of those canine gems who gets along with everyone, then you have more adoption options.

If you want your gem to be able to be “top dog,” then look for a soft, appeasing-type dog. If you don’t care where your easygoing dog ends up in the new hierarchy, then you have the entire canine personality continuum to choose from.

We knew our personal canine characters would present some challenges. A quick analysis revealed the following about the dogs we wanted to mingle with Missy:

  • Fifteen-year-old Katie, a very geriatric, arthritic, spayed, 45-pound Australian Kelpie, with a long history of asserting herself with the other members of the Miller pack. Literally on her last legs, Katie was approaching the last few weeks of her life, and had difficulty getting around. Her crankiness was exacerbated by her physical problems, but her mobility was so limited that she presented a low-level threat.
  • Seven-year-old Dubhy, an assertive, neutered, 25-pound Scottish Terrier, the loner of the group. He gets along well with the rest of the pack, but rarely engages in play with them. His reactivity developed when he was about 18 months old. I’ve worked with him to reduce his reactivity threshold distance to about three feet, although he’s better with small dogs.
  • Three-year-old Lucy, a lively, assertive, spayed, 35-pound Cardigan Welsh Corgi, who is the only one of the group who challenges Katie (regularly). She tends to act submissive when meeting a new dog, but guards certain places, objects, and me.
  • Two-year-old Bonnie, a soft, appeasing, spayed, 35-pound Scottie/Corgi mix who gets along with absolutely everyone.
  • Eight-year-old Missy, an appeasing, 40-pound female Australian Shepherd, possibly intact (not spayed), mild to moderate lameness in her right hind leg/hip. Missy had lived with other dogs before and has had at least four prior homes.

The Dog-Dog Introduction Process

I prefer introducing a new dog to the easier dogs first, one at a time. Assuming all goes well with the one-on-ones, I try a threesome, adding an additional dog as their behavior allows.

The process I use and recommend to clients is to start with dogs on leashes on opposite sides of an enclosed space. Try to keep leashes loose, if possible. Watch the dogs’ behavior. They should seem interested in each other, alert without excessive arousal. Ideally you’ll see tails wagging at half-mast; soft, wriggling body postures; play bows; ears back; squinty eyes; no direct eye contact. These are clear expressions of non-aggressive social invitation.

Warning signs include stiffness in the body; standing tall; ears pricked hard forward; growling; hard direct eye contact; stiffly raised, fast-wagging tails; lunging on the leash; and aggressive barking.

If you see social behavior, proceed with an approach until the dogs are about 10 feet apart. If they continue to show unambiguous signs of friendliness, drop the leashes and let them meet. I prefer to let dogs meet and greet off-leash; leashes tend to interfere with the dogs’ ability to greet normally, and can actually induce dogs to give false body language signals.

For example, a tight leash can stiffen and raise a dog’s front end, causing her to look more tense and provocative than she means to be, which in turn can cause the other dog to react on the offensive. A defensive dog who wants to retreat may feel trapped because of the leash and act aggressively because she can’t move away.

Initially, leave the leashes on, dragging freely on the floor, so you can grab them and separate the dogs easily if necessary. Monitor the greeting. You are likely to see some normal jockeying for position and some tension, as they sniff and circle, and then erupt into play. As soon as you can tell that they’re getting along, remove leashes and let them play unencumbered. Watch them! You want to ensure that the play doesn’t escalate into excessive arousal (which can lead to aggression), but remember that it’s normal and acceptable for dogs to growl and bite each other in play. As long as both dogs are enjoying the action, it’s a good thing.

If you see warning signs as you approach with the dogs on leash, you’ll need to proceed more slowly. Most commonly you’ll see behavior ranging somewhere between completely relaxed and friendly and outright aggressive. You’ll need to judge whether the intensity of the behavior is high enough that you need to stop and seek professional assistance, or low enough that you can proceed with caution.

If you do decide to proceed, interrupt any of the dogs’ prolonged, hard eye contact by having the handlers divert their dog’s attention with bits of tasty treats. Continue to work with the dogs in the others’ presence, watching for signs of decreasing arousal. Keeping the dogs as far apart as possible in the enclosed area, walk them around on loose leashes, gradually bringing them closer together until they are walking parallel to each other.

Get a list of even more tips on the best way to introduce dogs here.

Stay Calm!

It’s important that you stay calm and relaxed during this process. If you jerk or tighten the leash or yell at the dogs, you’ll add stress to the situation and make it more difficult for them to relax.

Anxious Dogs

Say you see signs that the dogs have relaxed with each other; this is where your experience and instincts come into play. You may decide to proceed with dropped-leash greetings. Or you may choose to end the introduction for the time being. It’s better to err on the side of caution, and do several more on-leash sessions to make sure the dogs are comfortable with each other. Meanwhile, you’ll need to manage the dogs so they don’t have free access to each other. If you’re not confident in your judgment about body language, you may choose to enlist the help of a professional at this point in the process.

If tensions between the dogs escalate or maintain at the same level of intensity despite your on-leash work over several sessions, the wise choice may be to look for a different dog to adopt into your home. Alternatively, you may want to do ongoing work with a behavior professional to try to make the relationship work, knowing that management may be a large part of your life for the foreseeable future.

Be careful if you see no interaction between the two dogs you’re introducing. What appears to be calm acceptance of each other may in fact be avoidance, where neither dog is comfortable with the other and they deal with it by not dealing with it. The problem with this is that sooner or later the dogs will interact if they’re both living in your home, and the discomfort may well develop into aggression. I really want to see some interaction between dogs in order to make a decision about adoption.

I chose to introduce Lucy and Missy first. Shirley held Lucy on-leash at one end of the training center, while I entered with Missy on-leash at the other end. Both dogs appeared relaxed and interested in each other. We approached to a distance of 10 feet and dropped leashes. The two dogs sniffed and circled, with Lucy offering appeasement behaviors: ears back, lowered body posture, corners of mouth slightly pulled back, and squinty eyes.

After a moment we removed the leashes, and the two engaged in some half-hearted play. Then Lucy walked over to the rack that holds dog toys, asking for me to throw her ball. I complied, and she happily chased the ball while Missy stayed at my feet. When Lucy raced back with the ball, Missy growled at her. Note to self: Missy has been here less than 24 hours and she’s already resource-guarding me. This could be problematic, especially since Lucy also displays owner-guarding and space-guarding behaviors. Hmmm.

Missy continued to display occasional mild guarding behavior while Lucy played. Her behavior didn’t escalate and Lucy didn’t take offense. I decided to table my concerns for the time being and proceed with the next introduction.

Bonnie was next. I was pretty unconcerned about this introduction; Bonnie gets along with everyone. My lack of concern was justified. We quickly proceeded to off-leash play, and Bonnie’s very appeasing attitude elicited no owner-guarding response whatsoever from Missy.

I then reintroduced Lucy to the pair, and all went reasonably well. Missy seemed less concerned with Lucy’s proximity to me with Bonnie in the mix, perhaps because her attention was divided.

We decided that Missy had probably had enough for one day, and put off the introductions to the two more difficult Miller dogs to the next day. The start of Reactive Rover Camp the day after that loomed large on the horizon. We had to get Missy out of the barn and into the house!

Missy’s introduction to Dubhy was my greatest concern. I proceeded with caution, and my fears were quickly justified. When I entered the training center with Dubhy, I had a pressurized can of citronella spray (Direct Stop/Spray Shield) in my pocket, high value treats in one hand, Dubhy’s leash in the other. As soon as he spotted Missy at the far end of the training center, Dubhy “turned on.” His head and tail went up, and his normally soft mouth got hard – I could feel his teeth on my fingers as he took treats from me. Happily, he remembered his “Reactive Rover” lessons, and quickly looked from Missy to me for the treats, but there was still tension in his body and arousal in his brain.

Shirley and I walked the two dogs around the training center, gradually bringing the dogs closer together. Dubhy’s mouth softened and his tail lowered as he grew accustomed to Missy’s presence. We eventually brought the dogs within three feet of each other, and Dubhy continued to be reasonably relaxed. I could see that he was still somewhat on alert, but I decided to make the leap, and told Shirley to drop Missy’s leash. Shirley looked at me as if I was nuts, but dropped the leash as requested. I dropped Dubhy’s, and he immediately lunged at Missy’s face with a ferocious snarl.

My heart sank as I leaped forward and sprayed Dubhy with a long blast of citronella to halt his attack. Missy had turned her face away from her attacker, and the spray shoots a very direct, narrow stream, so I could avoid punishing Missy for Dubhy’s aggression.

This was a deal breaker; I wasn’t willing to live with a lifetime of management between these two. If I hadn’t been on a tight schedule for integrating Missy into the household, I would have separated them with their leashes instead of using the spray, and reverted to a gradual introduction process. In fact, I wouldn’t even have gotten so close, given Dubhy’s tension and past history of dog-related aggression. I knew I was pushing the agenda already, by bringing them together quickly.

Dubhy stopped in his tracks and gave me a surprised look. The tension immediately vanished from his body and he glanced at Missy, then looked back at me. He stepped forward and sniffed Missy. She avoided eye contact by turning her head away, then stepped away from him.

Her response to him was so appropriate, and his changed body language so remarkable, that I stifled my first impulse to stop the introduction, and let them continue. Good thing! The interaction proceeded without any more aggression, and Dubhy has been perfect with Missy ever since; go figure! I don’t recommend using an aversive to try to make dog-dog relationships work. Any time an aversive is used there is a significant risk of increasing the negative association with the other dog: Dubhy could have been angrier with Missy if he perceived her as the cause of the spray. I was lucky that it had the opposite effect in this case.

My intent in using the spray with Dubhy was simply to interrupt the aggression to protect Missy. I fully expected that his behavior would preclude our adopting Missy into our home. I was surprised and grateful that it served to modify his behavior, apparently permanently – a happy accidental outcome of my crisis intervention.

As expected, Missy’s introduction to Katie in our backyard was uneventful, due to Katie’s mobility challenges. The aged Kelpie snarked at Missy briefly as the Aussie passed her on the back porch, but Missy, bless her, just ignored Katie’s rude behavior and headed out to the yard to play in the grass. One by one I released the other dogs to join Missy in the yard, all without incident. Missy was home.

Now, a few months later, Missy is doing well. She no longer has to deal with Katie, who passed away a few weeks after Missy’s arrival. Missy and Lucy occasionally posture over favored spaces in the house, but these incidents are minor and manageable. We’ve not had a whisper of inappropriate behavior from Dubhy toward Missy since his citronella experience – in fact, the two of them occasionally play together. Bonnie, as always, is no trouble at all. I hope all of your new family introductions go as well as ours did.

Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA, is Whole Dog Journal’s Training Editor. Miller lives in Hagerstown, Maryland, site of her Peaceable Paws training center. Pat is also the author of The Power of Positive Dog Training and Positive Perspectives: Love Your Dog, Train Your Dog.

Defeating the Resistance of Staph Infections Among Canines

Can the same drug-resistant illness that has been killing people in record numbers infect your dog? Can drug-resistant Staph infections be passed between dogs and humans? Is your dog at risk? Might your dog be a health hazard to others?

The answers are yes, yes, and maybe. Fortunately, there are many ways to prevent the spread of bacterial infections, including the drug-resistant kind.

Understanding MRSA
For decades, public health officials warned that the overuse of prescription antibiotics and antibacterial soap and hand wipes could lead to the growth of “supergerms,” drug-resistant bacteria that are difficult if not impossible to control.

They were right. In fact, just four years after penicillin became available in 1943, scientists documented microbes that could resist it. The first was Staphylococcus aureus, a ubiquitous bacterium that is usually harmless but which in susceptible patients can cause pneumonia, severe skin infections, or toxic shock syndrome.

By the 1990s, one strain became especially problematic. MRSA (pronounced MER-sa), or Methicillin-Resistant Staphylococcus aureus, got its name because the drug most commonly used to control it no longer worked.

MRSA in Canine

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Since then, MRSA outbreaks have been increasing in the United States, England, and other countries. In the U.S., infection rates tripled between 2000 and 2005. According to the Journal of the American Medical Association, an estimated 95,000 Americans contracted MRSA in 2005, resulting in 18,650 deaths, a number that surpassed that year’s HIV/AIDS death rate. In most cases, patients who died were elderly, already ill, or at risk because of compromised immunity, but MRSA has also killed the young and healthy, including, last October, teenagers in Virginia and New York.

Staph bacteria live on the skin or in the nose of about one-third of the world’s population. Those who harbor the bacteria but don’t have symptoms are “colonized” but not infected. They are carriers of the illness and can infect others.

Fortunately, Staph bacteria are usually harmless because the immune systems of most dogs and humans successfully keep the bacteria in check. Even if they enter the body, they cause only minor skin problems in most cases. In susceptible individuals, however, the bacterial population can suddenly increase and sicken its host.

Physicians check for MRSA by sending tissue samples or nasal secretions to diagnostic laboratories. Because bacterial culture tests take 48 hours and time is of the essence, tests that quickly detect Staph DNA are becoming widespread.

There are two types of MRSA: Hospital-Acquired (HA) and Community-Associated (CA).

HA-MRSA is alive and well in healthcare facilities, its original breeding ground. This strain, which is highly resistant to treatment with conventional drugs, causes internal infections in vulnerable patients, usually after gaining access to the body through catheters, surgical wounds, feeding tubes, invasive medical procedures, or lung infections. Those most at risk are the elderly, ill, and immune-compromised.

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CA-MRSA is less resistant to treatment but more dangerous because it grows rapidly in otherwise healthy patients. Its initial symptom looks like a red pimple, boil, insect bite, or spider bite. If left untreated, the swelling develops into abscesses that cause fever, pus, swelling, and pain.

Those most at risk of acquiring CA-MRSA include children, people of all ages who have weakened immune systems, those who live in crowded or unsanitary conditions, people who are in close contact with healthcare workers, and professional and amateur athletes who participate in contact sports. Sharing towels, razors, uniforms, and athletic equipment has spread MRSA among sports teams.

Dogs at risk
There have been many disturbing reports about MRSA, but the most alarming to dog lovers is the news that humans can infect dogs with this disease and vice-versa.

Michelle Rivera, who lives in North Palm Beach, Florida, contracted MRSA in 2005, the same year that 64 residents of Palm Beach County died of the disease. “I never once heard that my pets could be at risk because of my infection,” she says. “I was in a drug-induced coma for three weeks and bedridden for six months. This is one nasty superbug.”

Last October, the New York newspaper Newsday reported that MRSA cases are increasing among pets and that many pets have contracted the disease from their owners. Newsday quoted Patrick McDonough, PhD, an assistant professor at Cornell University’s veterinary college: “This is what we call reverse zoonosis. The organism is moving from people to animals. Once animals colonize it, we don’t know how long they maintain it, but this is one case where they are sharing what we have.”

MRSA Treatment

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In the same article, veterinarian Lewis Gelfand, DVM, of Long Beach, New York, reported that he has seen 19 cases of MRSA in dogs during the past year. “I believe it is a significantly underdiagnosed and rapidly expanding problem,” he said. “We have been seeing dermatological cases as well as open sores.”

On November 9, 2007, Fox News Channel 40 in Binghamton, New York, reported that Cooper, a 100-pound Italian Spinoni belonging to Andrea Irwin, had been diagnosed with MRSA, which caused sores all over the dog’s stomach and legs.

“He had recurrent Staph infections since the fall of 2004,” Irwin told reporters. “He had been treated on and off for those infections, but they never cleared up totally. This July the vet decided it was time to take some skin cultures and send them to Cornell University, where Cooper tested positive for the human strain of MRSA.” Following successful treatment, he made a full recovery.

When Cooper was diagnosed, Irwin felt frustrated by the lack of information available about MRSA’s effect on dogs. “The only information I could find was from a website for the Bella Moss Foundation,” she said.

English actress Jill Moss created the foundation in memory of her Samoyed, Bella, who ruptured a cruciate ligament in July 2004 while chasing squirrels in a London park. What should have been a routine repair turned into a nightmare when Bella’s leg swelled with pus. Because the veterinarians who treated her didn’t recognize MRSA, Bella became the world’s first documented canine fatality from the disease. Pets-MRSA.com, the foundation’s website, is a leading information resource about MRSA’s effects on animals.

Preventing MRSA
Public health officials agree that the best way to prevent MRSA is with frequent hand washing. Scrub hands briskly with soapy water for at least 15 seconds before rinsing, then dry them with a paper towel and use a second paper towel to turn off the faucet and open the bathroom door.

When you don’t have soap and water, use a hand sanitizer that contains at least 62 percent alcohol or a small amount of disinfecting essential oils. The chemicals used in antibacterial soaps and hand wipes have been blamed by public health officials for the mutation of drug-resistant bacteria, so consider alternatives to soaps and wipes containing antibacterial chemicals.

Clean and disinfect all cuts, wounds, bites, stings, and open sores. Keep wounds clean and covered with sterile, dry bandages until they heal. Sanitize linens if you or your dog have any cut or sore by washing sheets, towels, and bedding in hot water and drying them in a hot dryer.

If you or your dog have a persistent skin infection, have it tested for MRSA to be sure you receive an antibiotic that is targeted to wipe out the bacteria, without promoting the resistant population.

Last, use antibiotics appropriately. Follow label instructions and don’t share or save unfinished antibiotics. Because antibiotics are not effective against viruses, don’t insist on getting a prescription for a cold or other viral infection.

Holistic care and prevention
Keeping colonized dogs from spreading MRSA and keeping at-risk dogs safe requires frequent hand washing, dog bathing, and keeping wounds and bedding clean.

Dogs that are MRSA carriers or who have close contact with someone infected with MRSA can pose a risk to small children, pregnant women, the elderly, and anyone with an active illness or open sore. Commonsense precautions include keeping your dog clean and not letting your dog lick everyone.

Probiotic supplements are recommended for MRSA prevention because beneficial bacteria are the immune system’s first line of defense. Products containing Lactobacillus bacteria, especially L. sporogenes, or other beneficial bacteria can be given before meals or according to label directions.

According to Mary G. Enig, PhD, one of the world’s leading experts on fats and oils, coconut oil’s medium-chain fatty acids inhibit the growth of many pathogenic microorganisms, including Staph bacteria. She sites research on two strains of S. aureus showing that monolaurin from coconut oil combined with the essential oil of oregano, which is itself a powerful disinfectant, worked better than the most potent antibiotic.

“This research showed,” she writes, “that these safe antimicrobial agents could be useful for prevention and therapy of Staphylococcus aureus and numerous other infections. It is now clear and scientifically validated that the inclusion of coconut oil in the diet could and should be utilized for its preventive and healing properties.”

The recommended amount of coconut oil for dogs is 1 teaspoon per 10 pounds of body weight per day, or up to twice that amount in divided doses if the dog is a carrier, has an active infection, or is exposed to someone with MRSA. Start with small amounts and increase gradually. (See “Crazy About Coconut Oil,” Whole Dog Journal October 2005.)

Many essential oils kill harmful bacteria, including cinnamon bark, clove bud, savory, thyme, lavender, tea tree, and the previously mentioned oregano.

Oregano essential oil (be sure the label says Origanum vulgaris, preferably wildcrafted or organic) can be given to dogs internally by placing drops in an empty two-part gel cap (available at health food stores), closing the cap, and placing it in a small amount of food so that the dog swallows it whole. Dogs do not like the taste! Use 1 drop of oregano oil per 50 pounds body weight once or twice per day. For small dogs, dilute 1 drop essential oil in ½ teaspoon vegetable oil and give ⅛ teaspoon per 10-15 pounds.

Cinnamon bark oil is a powerful skin irritant and should not be applied externally, but it can be added to laundry water to disinfect towels or bedding. All of the essential oils mentioned here, including cinnamon, can be dispersed in an aromatherapy diffuser or mixed with water (20 drops per quart or 5 drops per cup) and sprayed in the air, avoiding furniture and pets, or on kitchen and bathroom surfaces, doorknobs, crates, and pet bedding.

Manuka honey, mentioned in “Bee Products” (September 2007), is a proven Staph killer. A teaspoon to a tablespoon of honey, fed to a dog twice a day, can help him fend off harmful bacteria. Colloidal silver is another disinfectant that has been proven to kill S. aureus. It can be applied externally to cuts and wounds, sprayed directly on a dog’s coat (including the face, nose, and groin areas, where Staph bacteria tend to colonize), and taken internally.

For best results, use a product like Sovereign Silver, which contains very small silver particles in a base of pure water. For maintenance, give ¼ teaspoon per 20 pounds of body weight between meals every other day. If your dog is exposed to MRSA or any other contagious illness, give the same dose three times per day. Larger doses (consult the manufacturer) can be used to treat active infection.

One of the easiest ways to keep your dog clean is with microfiber cleaning cloths. These rough-textured polyester-polyamide cloths were originally developed for “clean room” applications in the semi-conductor industry. Used wet or dry, they attract and trap dust, dander, loose hair, and other particles, even fleas and unattached ticks. Microfiber fabric does not disinfect, but it picks up and removes bacteria. The cloths can be washed in hot water (add a few drops of cinnamon or tea tree oil or a blend of disinfecting essential oils) and dried in a hot dryer to kill microorganisms. Don’t use fabric softeners and dryer sheets when laundering microfiber cleaning cloths.

MRSA may be a frightening illness, but by following the simple prevention steps described here, you can help ensure that you and your dog enjoy an active, happy, MRSA-free life.

CJ Puotinen, a frequent contributor to WDJ, is co-director of the Hudson Valley Humane Society Visiting Pet Program in Rockland County, New York, and its annual Therapy Dog Camp. The organization’s members include therapy dogs and other animals. See HudsonValleyVisitingPets.com for more information.

Nighttime Dog Walking Visibility Products

Walking with a dog in the dark can present a number of challenges for many dog owners. You may not be able to see well in the dark; this can make you take a hard step off a curb or trip on a rise in the sidewalk. Finding your dog’s poop at night (so you can pick it up and dispose of it properly) is also a problem.

Although definitely in the minority, some people walk their dogs off-leash at night. I’ve met a number of people at night who were walking off-leash dogs on the wide trail that tops the river levee that parallels my town’s main street. If I wasn’t a dog person, I would probably be unnerved by the fast approach of a strange dog in the dark. And as it is, if the dogs were mine, I’d be worried that one of them would wander off or get lost if I couldn’t keep sight of them.

Nighttime Dog Walking Products

The most potentially dangerous and most common problem with nighttime dog walking, though, is that other people – people driving cars, especially – can’t readily see you or your dog. Whether you are crossing a street, or just walking across a driveway “safely” on the sidewalk, if a driver can’t see you, you are at risk of being hit.

Products for Every Problem – But None for All Problems

We rounded up a wide array of products that are intended to make nighttime dog-walking brighter. However, we found that most of them addressed only one of the various night visibility issues.

Puplight

For example, we found a number of collars, leashes, harnesses, bandannas, and vests that sported varying amounts of reflective material – the stuff that seems to shine brightly back at the source of the light. These products are matchless for helping a driver see you and your dog in his headlights, but they can’t help you see in the dark or help you or other lightless pedestrians see your dog.

We also found a lot of products that light up – including collars and leashes that twinkle, glow, and/or flash, and battery-operated lights that can be hung on a dog’s collar or harness. Many of these shine very impressively (and festively!) in the dark – but we found that their light is lost in the comparative glare of car headlights, making them suitable for some applications but not for safety from drivers.

For these reasons, you’ll want to choose a product that best suits your needs; we’ll describe what each product can and cannot do. If walking at night in the rain is your dog’s favorite thing to do, and the battery-powered light-up products tickle your fancy, consider the product’s ability to withstand moisture. We tested the products only once in the rain, and it was a light, brief shower. We’ve quoted the makers’ claims regarding the water-resistance of their products, but did not put these claims to a serious test. If no claim of “waterproof” or “water-resistant” is made for a battery-powered product, we wouldn’t use the product in even a light rain, due to the risk of shocking the dog. For the same reason, never leave a battery-powered product on or within reach of an unattended dog.

Ruffwear Vest

Purchasing Notes

Most of the products we reviewed were not made in the U.S. The only exceptions are products made by Glow Dog, Ultra Paws, and Sellwood Dog Supply.

Many of these companies sell directly to consumers as well as through retailers, so you might find their products in pet supply stores but can also purchase them from the maker. In a few cases, products we tested are not sold directly by their makers. The smart companies will direct you to an online or local retailer where you can buy their products. If this was the case, we included the maker’s contact information below.

Rarely, however, the maker neither sells the product directly nor provides consumers with the name of local or even online retailers where the products can be bought. Instead, they suggest that you “ask your local retailer for these products.” This was the case with one company whose products we liked: CMI Pets, maker of PetStrobe and Mini PetStrobe (pendant lights that hang from a dog collar).

Visiglow

We are loathe to include a glowing (sorry!) review of a product unless we can direct you to a specific place where the products can be purchased.

For this reason, you won’t see the products named above in our review, even though they had certain attributes we liked. For example, the PetStrobe lights made by CMI Pets, which contain four LEDs, can flash in different colors and at two different speeds (or just stay on) and are waterproof to boot. We can’t include them in this review since we can’t tell people where to buy them! Oh well, the metal clips were tiny and difficult to open and close anyway.

We tested about another half-dozen nighttime visibility products that didn’t meet our satisfaction; the wouldn’t have even earned one paw on our rating scale (on page 12). One light-up collar we rejected was weighted down with a cucumber-sized battery pack. One could plug the collar into a charger to recharge this large battery, which is a cool feature, but you’d have to overlook the fact that a dog wearing such a device could get a sore neck from the weight of the thing!

We rejected other products that contained blinking lights. Some turned off spontaneously, due to a faulty design or workmanship. Another contained batteries that could not be replaced. See the charts on page 15 and 16 for more details, including price and purchasing information, about each product we reviewed.

Visiglow Lights

Every dog owner who helped us test this product asked if they could keep it after our trial was completed. There really isn’t any better testament to a product’s ease of use and usefulness. What we like: The PupLight hangs from a specially designed clip that helps hold the light away from the dog’s coat (in case of an especially shaggy dog) and allows the owner to change the angle of the beam of light to his or her preference. The clip can be strapped to the wide, adjustable, elastic collar provided by the manufacturer or to a regular flat collar. All of our testers liked using the light on the collar provided, so they could quickly pull it off over the dog’s head to use as a flashlight when needed, without turning the dog loose.

We really like the fact that the PupLight uses AAA batteries, so we can use environmentally friendly rechargeables. Single-use batteries are a major source of toxins in landfills and waste disposal incinerators.

Dog E Lights

In terms of sheer attractiveness at night, this product takes the cake. RuffWear used two strips of “electroluminescent wire” – one going down the length of each side of the coat – powered by two AAA batteries (and RuffWear encourages owners to use rechargeables, which we appreciate). The flexible wire is cool to the touch but glows with a light similar to that produced by neon, in a pretty shade of blue. Please note that the light does not provide the brightest light of the products here. The wire is stitched in place over a narrow strip of Scotchlite reflective material.

What we like: The vest makes it easy to see the dog in pitch black and in headlights. It can be set to blink on and off or stay lighted. If you remove the battery pack from its pocket in the back of the vest, you can hand-wash and line-dry the vest.

Harness by Dog E Lites

What we don’t like: It’s pricey compared to other products here. We wish the lighted and reflective strips were wider, for even greater visibility.

Visiglo makes three different types of battery-powered light-up collars and leashes. “Sport” models feature “pulsating electro-luminescence” – similar to the neon-looking strip of light used in RuffWear’s Lighted Lab Coat, but, um . . . pulsating. “Fashion” models are not quite as bright, but feature a flashing “electro-luminescent animation” with bones or pawprints. Brightest of all are the “LED” models – which utilize “cascading light-emitting diodes” – extremely small but extremely bright flashing lights.

What we like: If we were looking to make our dogs as stylish as possible in a low-light situation, or as highly visible as possible in a super-dark environment, we’d use Visiglo products. They are bright and frenetic. The lights in the “Sport” and “LED” models are visible from either side of the flat leashes (the lights on the “Fashion” models are visible from only one side of the leash). Each type of model is available in several colors and patterns.

What we don’t like: As someone who suffers migraine headaches, which are often aggravated by bright light, I could barely stand to test these products in an extremely dark environment; they are just too bright and frenetic, especially the models that use LED lights. In fact, their packages warn that they are not appropriate for use by people who suffer from photosensitive epilepsy! It seemed to me that the leashes even put off some of our more sensitive test dogs (the light of their own collars doesn’t shine right in their eyes, of course). They are less offensive in low-light (rather than pitch-black) situations. A “constant light” mode is not available.

The Beacon

As a minor point, I’m not crazy about the type of metal snaps used on the leashes, and I found the plastic clips used on the collars to be rather unwieldy. (This last feature is a necessary evil, since the snap also houses the collar’s batteries and on/off button. But it’s not like these products are meant to be any dog’s everyday collar or leash.) Finally, the Sport and Fashion models make tiny beeping noises when turned on – which went unnoticed by all but our most sensitive and noise-phobic test dog.

Spotlit

Dog e Lites makes a wide range of products featuring twinkling LED lights. Again, though these lights are tiny, they can be seen from a great distance in the dark, though their shine can be lost in low-light situations. Fortunately, Dog e Lites also includes a strip of reflective material on each collar, leash, and harness, to provide visibility in the glare of car headlights.

Nighttime Dog Walking Products

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What we like: We especially liked the step-in harness, which has reflective material on each strap, and lights across the front. We put this harness on a black dog to illustrate how much more visible it makes him at night.

What we don’t like: The lights and reflective material appear on only one side of the leash, which is also a little narrow, making it less comfortable in the hand.

The Beacon is the first of several pendant-style lights, meant for hanging on a dog’s collar or harness, that we tested. This type of light is meant to help the dog be seen, but doesn’t do anything to help a dog owner see where she is going.

The Beacon is a very sturdy, compact, bright light. It contains four LED lights inside a red plastic lens, and is made to fasten in any number of ways to a dog or dog handler. It comes equipped with a ring (for hanging like an ID tag on a dog’s collar ring) and a plastic clip, which can be used to clip the light onto the dog’s collar, harness, leash, or coat – or to his owner’s pocket or bait bag. The light can blink slowly or fast, or burn steadily.

Nighttime Dog Walking Products

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We gave this pendant-style light a slightly lower rating for a couple reasons. First, it’s more difficult to turn on and off; you have to press the button really hard sometimes to get it to work. This made us think, several times, that the batteries were dead. Also its metal clip is difficult to open and close.

On the plus side, it is available in red or white; we like the white light. When pressed into service as a miniature flashlight, it helps an owner see better than the red light. With its rounded shape, we suspect that this light is also more comfortable for the dog to wear, as it bobs against his chest as he moves. The light can blink or burn steadily.

Nighttime Dog Walking Products

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We tested five different Glow Dog reflective products: a vest (they call it a “jacket,” but it really provides only reflection, not warmth), a six-foot leash, a collar, a bandanna, and what Glow Dog calls a “Bunchie” – kind of a dog-neck-sized scrunchie. Each of these products is made with fabrics that have been completely covered with a “patented retro-reflective technology” the maker calls “Illuminite.” When a light shines on this material, the entire surface reflects brightly. All of the products show up extremely well, but the jacket provides an entire dog-shaped reflective silhouette that is instantly recognizable to a driver.

Once again, we found that our testers did not want to return these products – a great testimonial.

What we like: Glow Dog products are made with nice, light-weight but strong materials. They are available in several colors; all reflect at night in a bright white color. The maker also offers dozens of products for human use; see illuminite.com.

What we don’t like: There isn’t much to say here, except to note that the Glow Dog collar is for visibility only; it lacks a ring to clip a leash onto.

Nighttime Dog Walking Products

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Ultra Paws offers two perfectly nice reflective safety products for dogs: a lightweight vest and a medium-weight, fleece-lined coat. Each has two ¾-inch-wide strips of reflective material sewn to each side of the garment. The products provide more reflective material than many competitors we saw advertised, but not nearly as much as Glow Dog’s products.

We purposely photographed these products on a black dog to show how much more visible a dog is when wearing a reflective product when walking near cars at night.

There is nothing fancy about this reflective collar (see photo below), which is made by Sellwood Dog Supply as part of its made-in-the-USA Gold Paw Series. But there is nothing shoddy about it, either! And, in contrast to Glow Dog’s collar, it is made with a sturdy ring to fasten a leash to. It’s a well-made, attractive collar that reflects well at night, and could work well as a dog’s everyday collar, too.

Download the Full December 2007 Issue PDF

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Training An Older Dog

TRAINING OLD DOGS: OVERVIEW

1. Make a commitment to continue providing your aging dog with learning and training opportunities as long as he can enjoy them.

2. Be realistic in your expectations about what your senior dog can learn. Don’t ask him to perform beyond his physical capabilities.

3. Consult with your veterinarian if you see signs of canine cognitive disorder (mental aging) in your dog.


You’ve no doubt heard the adage, “You can’t teach an old dog new tricks.” If you have an older dog, you’ll be relieved to know that for the most part it’s false. Older dogs are perfectly capable of learning. The oldest dog ever to enroll in one of my training classes was an 11-year-old Labrador Retriever, and she performed admirably. Positive trainers like to say “it’s all tricks.” Any new behaviors your senior dog can learn count as new tricks, even if he’s no longer jumping through hoops.

Elderly Dog Training

There are a number of factors that influence how much and what your mature canine pal can learn, including:

1. Your dog’s training and behavior history.

If your dog has learned how to enjoy learning and is engaged in an ongoing training program, he will continue to learn easily. Studies show that humans who continue to exercise their brains stay more mentally alert than those who do not. We have every reason to believe the same is true of dogs.

2. Physical conditions that limit his mobility.

It seems obvious but we’ll say it anyway: If your dog has physical limitations, he may not be able to perform new behaviors that require physical exertion. Joint or muscle pain, arthritis, hip dysplasia, obesity, and heart problems are some of the more common physical conditions that can interfere with your elder dog’s willingness to try some new “tricks.” Also, get an okay from your veterinarian before enrolling your senior dog in a physically vigorous training program.

3. Your skill as a trainer and commitment to your dog’s training program.

They can’t do it on their own. The better you are at communicating to your dog – reinforcing appropriately and in a timely manner for desired behaviors – the easier it is for him to learn new behaviors at any age. The more consistent you are about working regularly with your dog, the easier it is for him to learn, no matter how much grey hair he has.

4. What you are trying to teach him.

If your goal is to change behaviors that your dog has been practicing successfully (getting reinforced for) for a decade, your challenge will be greater than if you’re simply teaching new behaviors. Changing long-held classically conditioned (emotional) responses is likely to be more challenging than teaching new operantly conditioned responses, where the dog deliberately chooses behaviors in anticipation of reinforcement.

5. What methods you have used – and are using – to teach him.

There is overwhelming anecdotal evidence that dogs trained with positive methods are quite willing to keep on learning – while those trained with physical and/or verbal punishment are more likely to shut down and less willing to offer new behaviors. If you want your dog to be an eager participant in the learning process well into his sunset years, be sure to stick with a positive training program.

6. Mental conditions that limit his cognitive abilities.

Canine cognitive disorder, sometimes referred to as “Doggie Alzheimer’s” is a very real phenomenon. Clinical signs include those changes owners often refer to as “senility” such as: disorientation, “acting old,” increased sleep (especially during the day), altered interactions with family members, loss of housetraining, decreased ability to recognize familiar people and surroundings, decreased hearing, restlessness, decreased desire to perform favorite tasks (such as walking), standing in the corner, and barking aimlessly at inanimate objects.

Canine cognitive disorder can significantly limit a dog’s ability to learn, although there is a medication approved for this condition (Anapril) that can often alleviate symptoms.

Who Counts as a Senior Dog?

The point at which a dog qualifies as “aged” varies. Maria M. Glowaski, DVM, of the Ohio State University Veterinary Teaching Hospital, published these guidelines for defining a senior dog: “Veterinarians generally consider small dogs to be senior citizens at about 12 years of age, while large dogs reach the senior stage at 6 to 8 years of age. This roughly corresponds to the 55-plus category in people.”

The larger your dog, the earlier he is likely to show physical signs of aging, with small dogs (under 20 pounds) often not showing obvious signs of age until they are over 12; medium-sized dogs (20-80 pounds) at around age 10; and large dogs as early as age 8.

Less-well documented are signs of mental aging. The Sydney (Australia) University Veterinary Faculty, in conjunction with New South Wales University’s School of Psychiatry, is currently conducting a PhD research project into aging and mental decline in older dogs. Until we have the results of this study and others like it, we must settle for anecdotal evidence regarding our senior dogs’ mental capacity. The good news is that
anecdotes tell us that barring serious mental deterioration, dogs are ready and willing to learn at almost any age, even if their learning at some point must be restricted to games that can be played lying down.

The Miller’s Senior Dogs

My husband and I currently have three dogs in our pack that could be qualified as seniors. Their mental and physical abilities and the adaptations we have had to make to train and manage them are classically representative of most older dogs.

Elderly Dog Training

Dubhy is the youngest of our seniors. At age seven, the 25-pound Scottish Terrier barely qualifies as aged, although he has long had a generally calm, reserved demeanor – and grey hair in his coat – which causes people (including our veterinarian) to perceive him as older than he is.

Dubhy has been trained with positive (clicker) methods since we first found him as a six-month-old adolescent stray and took him to our house until we could find him a home (hah). He loves to train, and his trick repertoire includes such delightful behaviors as pushing a toy grocery cart, saying his prayers, rolling himself up in a blanket, and sitting upright in a chair to play his electronic keyboard.

Although I tend to let his training slide in favor of the younger, rowdier members of the Miller pack, I recently picked up Dubhy’s clicker and leash – to his delight – and started teaching him a couple of new tricks: “Superdog” and “Put Away Your Toys.”

Not surprisingly, he learned new behaviors as quickly at age seven as he did when he was a young’un. In just three sessions he added “Superdog” to the list of tricks he can perform on cue – lying on the floor with his hind legs stretched out straight behind him (dubbed “Superdog” because I envision him wearing a cape with wires to make it “fly” out behind him, and photoshopping his image onto a blue sky). This was an easy behavior for him, as he tends to assume this position on his own. It was simply a matter of capturing it with the clicker and reinforcing it with high value treats until he began offering the behavior in hopes of earning reinforcement. Ah, the joy of a clicker-trained dog!

Putting his toys away was a tad more challenging, as he’s not a natural retriever. But he was fascinated by the “Cuz” dog toy (a rubber squeaky ball with feet), and it took just a week of focused work to get him to pick it up and drop it in the basket. I shaped this behavior by holding the toy over the center of a wicker basket, encouraging him to mouth the toy. I clicked every time he mouthed the toy over the center of the basket; when I clicked, he’d let the toy drop into the wicker receptacle, in anticipation of getting a treat.

Elderly Dog Training

When Dubhy could do that easily and consistently, I gradually moved the toy toward the edge of the basket, only clicking if it dropped into the basket when he let it go. As he grasped the concept of moving it back toward the center of the basket I made it more challenging for him by holding the Cuz further from the basket, and eventually lowering it to the ground so he had to pick it up and bring it back to the toy basket.

Our next task is to generalize the behavior to all his toys. I expect Dubhy to be an active training partner for many years to come.

Missy is the newest addition to the Miller family, but at age eight, the red merle Australian Shepherd easily qualifies as a senior, at least physically. Radiographs taken by our vet just today pinpoint an old injury/fracture to her right hip as the explanation for hind-end weakness and some minor lameness that we’ve noted in the month we’ve had her. An apparent lifetime of itchiness and chewing has worn her lower incisors down to the gums. Combined with a dull, lifeless coat, probably from a less-than-optimum diet, these conditions all make her look and act even older than she is.

Missy is well housetrained, but seems to not have had much else asked of her. She sits occasionally when cued, but not consistently. She bonded to me like superglue in less than 24 hours, giving rise to some minor isolation distress issues (and making “come when called” a non-issue), and is markedly slower to learn new behaviors than our younger dogs, who all have a history of positive reinforcement training.

Unlike our other dogs, Missy has been slow to grasp the novel (to her) concept that her behavior can make good things happen. Interestingly, since she’s a mature girl, I find myself expecting her to respond to cues that I know she doesn’t know. I am constantly reminding myself that she is like a puppy in terms of learning; I have to teach her what all the cues mean.

She’s also made me aware that I use the “Wait” cue more than any other with our pack (see “Training Your Dog to Stay Using Cues“). I routinely use it on the stairs, at doors, in the barn, in the car, and at mealtimes. I use it to manage the pack, asking some of our dogs to wait at the door, while inviting others to walk through.

While Bonnie, our youngest, learned to wait for her food bowl with just a few lessons when she came to us at age six months, it took Missy a full two weeks to understand why the food bowl went away every time she got up to eat, why the door kept closing when she stood up, and why the rest of the dogs paused on the stair landing and didn’t continue down until I reached the bottom of the stairway and invited them.

She’s mentally sharp enough, and is learning the basic cues (sit and down) – much more slowly than a new pup whose educational level would be similar to hers. Although to be fair, not totally similar, since part of Missy’s slowness may be due to a history of being punished for offering behaviors, making her slower to try new things than a “blank slate” puppy would be.

We’ll have to limit Missy’s high-activity physical “new tricks” because of her aforementioned medical condition, but look forward to her continuing progress with basic good manners cues and other low impact “tricks.” With patience, I’m confident we can help her understand how much fun learning can be.

Katie was the matriarch of the Miller pack, until just a month ago when she had aged to the point that we painfully decided it was time to let her go. At age 15, suffering from advancing arthritis, she was clearly limited in her activities. I no longer asked her to “Sit” and “Wait” for her dinner, and no longer expected her to fold her aging bones to the floor in response to a “Down” cue. She pretty much could do whatever she wanted, which was mostly sleep on her magnetic bed and bark as the more active dogs chased Frisbees in the backyard.

However, Katie still had some lessons to learn in the last year of her life. Her “new tricks” consisted in large part of classical conditioning to convince her to allow me to help her negotiate stairs that she could no longer manage on her own.

At one time comfortable with all the normal handling and grooming, Katie had grown irritable about being touched and handled as she aged and became more arthritic. She reached a point where she wouldn’t hesitate to snap if she thought you were about to do something, like reach for her collar, that might cause her pain.

We took management steps, eventually allowing her to sleep downstairs – which she seemed not to mind – rather than urge her to climb the stairs to our bedroom on the second floor. However, nails needed occasional trimming, I had to brush her shedding coat at least once in a while, and when she could no longer even climb the three steps up to our porch from the backyard, it was imperative that she accept my physical assistance.

So we counter-conditioned. Throughout the day I reached for her collar, fed her a treat. Reached for her collar, fed her a treat. Touched a paw, fed her a treat. Touched her with the brush, fed her a treat. Reached for her collar, fed her a treat, and helped her up the stairs. Took a stroke with the brush, fed her a treat. Clipped a nail, fed her a treat. All very carefully, to avoid causing her any more discomfort than necessary.

Katie also learned a new recall (come) cue in the last months of her life. She had become almost totally deaf in her last year, and could no longer hear me call her in from the backyard. She tended to go out of sight around the corner of the garage to sleep in her favorite sunspot, which mandated that I trudge across the yard to fetch her in. Not an insurmountable task, but still . . .

My husband purchased a Storm Whistle – so shrill I had to plug my ears when I blew it – and it took only a few repeated associations between whistle and treats for Katie to learn to come galloping when she heard it. Another new trick! Knowing we had an effective way to call her also eased my mind about her possibly wandering off, as senior dogs sometimes do. Fortunately, Katie was quite food motivated to her very last days, and her ability to learn new associations – new tricks – even as a very senior dog, extended her life and her quality of life for many months longer than we had anticipated.

Most positively trained dogs are highly reinforced by the opportunity to learn. Taking this opportunity away from them in their senior years can be an unintended cruelty. Training keeps their minds and bodies active, and enriches their lives, even as other opportunities for enrichment diminish with advancing age and frailty. Training and learning with you should be one of your dog’s greatest joys in life – one that he can enjoy to the very end of his days.

Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA, is Whole Dog Journal’s Training Editor. Miller lives in Hagerstown, Maryland, site of her Peaceable Paws training center. Pat is also the author of The Power of Positive Dog Training, and, Positive Perspectives: Love Your Dog, Train Your Dog.

How Homeopathy Works for Your Dog

Two dogs have itchy skin and small open sores on their legs. Or they both have a fever or a trauma injury or infected ears.

One goes to a conventional veterinarian and receives antibiotics, steroids, or other symptom-suppressing drugs.

The other goes to a veterinary homeopath, who studies the dog’s symptoms and asks all kinds of questions about his behavior and actions while looking things up in a book or computer. The homeopath selects a remedy, gives the dog a single dose, and instructs the owner to wait, watch, and report back.

Homeopathic Remedies

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The remedy is chosen not because it reduces or eliminates the dog’s symptoms but because by itself, when given to a healthy patient, it actually produces those same symptoms. And the remedy is so dilute that it contains not a single molecule of the substance on the label.

Welcome to the world of homeopathy, one of the most interesting and controversial alternative therapies and forms of “energy medicine.” Does it work? Is it a fraud? Is it safe? Are you and your dog good candidates for this approach to healing?

“Like cures like”
Homeopathy was developed in the early 1800s by Samuel Hahnemann, a German physician. He wrote, “If a medicine administered to a healthy person causes a certain syndrome of symptoms, that medicine will cure a sick person who presents similar symptoms.”

Dr. Hahnemann discovered this principle when he experimented with quinine from the bark of the Peruvian cinchona tree, which was widely used to treat malaria. Dr. Hahnemann, who did not have malaria, was startled when he developed malaria symptoms each time he took quinine. He then experimented with different medications that he administered to himself and healthy volunteers, documenting their responses.

Because several of the preparations were toxic, Dr. Hahnemann tried to reduce adverse effects by giving the drugs in very small doses, but in many cases, this made the reactions worse. Diluting the preparations in stages, he found, maintained their effect while eliminating their toxicity. In fact, he discovered that a greater dilution coupled with agitation of the mixture (his first solutions were jostled as he traveled in a horse-drawn carriage) seemed to enhance the medicine’s effect.

Homeopathic remedies are made from vegetable, mineral, and animal sources. With each step, the substance is diluted by a factor of 10 or 100, and the mixture is subjected to a series of “succussions,” shakes, or poundings. In Dr. Hahnemann’s day, this work was all done by hand. Today it is partly mechanized.

Homeopathic remedies are generally made into tiny round pills, tablets, or granules, or presented as liquid remedies in dropper bottles.

Potent differences
The potency of homeopathic medicines is measured according to the number of dilutions and successions they have undergone. The centesimal scale, which is commonly used in the United States, measures dilution by 100 and uses the abbreviation “c.” One drop of the original or “mother” tincture diluted in 99 drops of water is a 1c preparation (1 in 100). One drop of 1c solution in 99 drops of water is a 2c preparation (1 in 10,000). One drop of 2c solution in 99 drops of water is a 3c preparation (1 in 1,000,000); and so on.

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The decimal scale measures dilution by 10 and uses the abbreviation “x.”

While the most common potencies (6x, 3c, 6c, 12c, and 30c) are available over the counter in homeopathic pharmacies, health food stores, drugstores, mail order catalogs, and online, higher potencies are reserved for professional use. Very high homeopathic potencies, such as 1M strength (1M equals 1,000c), are considered the most powerful and usually require a written prescription.

The alleged strength of extremely dilute solutions is one of the paradoxes of homeopathic medicine. Critics argue that a solution so dilute that it contains no chemically measurable trace of the ingredient on the label can’t have an effect on anything and that homeopathy must be a hoax, or its cures are caused by the placebo effect, or its satisfied patients are under the spell of a mass delusion. Homeopathy’s basic premise simply doesn’t make sense to Western physicians.

But it does make sense to many biophysicists and other research scientists.

Medical journalist Lynne McTaggart is author of The Field: The Quest for the Secret Force of the Universe, a review of recent scientific investigations of energy. She learned that conservative medical researchers studying the behavior of water had, without realizing it, discovered that homeopathy’s underlying premise that dilution increases a solution’s strength is not science fiction but a fact of nature.

In studies conducted between 1985 and 1989, Dr. Jacques Benveniste, a French physician and allergy researcher who knew nothing about homeopathy, repeatedly found that when antibodies (anti-IgE molecules) were diluted in water, the resulting solutions inhibited dye absorption just as full-strength solutions did, even when there was no possibility of a single molecule of the original substance in the solution.

Although the potency of the anti-IgE molecules was at its highest in early stage dilutions and then fell through successive dilutions, the experiment’s results changed abruptly at the ninth dilution. From then on, the IgE’s effects increased with each dilution. “As homeopathy had always claimed,” McTaggart writes, “the weaker the solution, the more powerful its effect.”

Dr. Benveniste and his staff then worked with five different laboratories in France, Israel, Italy, and Canada, all of which replicated his results. The 13 scientists who conducted the experiments jointly published the results of their four-year collaboration in a 1988 edition of Nature, a prestigious scientific journal. Their article described how when solutions of antibodies were repeatedly diluted until they no longer contained a single molecule of the antibody, they still produced a response from immune cells.

The authors concluded that none of the original molecules were present in certain dilutions and that “specific information must have been transmitted during the dilution/shaking process. Water could act as a template for the molecule, for example, by an infinite hydrogen-bonded network, or electric and magnetic fields…. The precise nature of this phenomenon remains unexplained.”

The editor of Nature found this so incredible that he appended an editorial questioning the results. There followed a firestorm of controversy, including investigations by a scientific “fraud squad” led by a professional magician (not by scientists familiar with the research methods) who accused Dr. Benveniste and his fellow researchers of not following scientific protocols and concluded that their findings were without merit. But in the 20 years since the article’s publication, research at laboratories around the world has only confirmed its original findings.

Practically no one today knows that in the 19th century, homeopathy was widely practiced in the U.S. and Canada and that it was in fact the preferred system of medicine, being more effective and far safer than the techniques and drugs used by allopathic physicians. During yellow fever and cholera epidemics, patients treated by homeopaths had much higher survival rates than those treated allopathically.

When allopathic physicians gained a medical monopoly, homeopathy’s popularity in North America declined, but it remains mainstream medicine in India, Europe, and other parts of the world. Meanwhile, in the U.S. and Canada, homeopathy is being rediscovered. About 200 veterinary homeopaths are listed at the websites of the American Holistic Veterinary Medical Association and the Academy of Veterinary Homeopathy.

Members of the Academy are trained in Dr. Hahnemann’s methods, called “classical” homeopathy. In classical homeopathy, a single remedy is given alone, not in combination with other remedies, and it is usually given once, not repeatedly. Remedies are selected according to the patient’s unique symptoms, not his or her disease, which is why two puppies with kennel cough could be treated with entirely different remedies.

Even the word “symptom” has special meaning in homeopathy. You might think that kennel cough is kennel cough, but to a classically trained homeopath, the symptoms that matter include whether your dog wants attention or avoids it, prefers to lie on her right or left side, or seeks warm or cool surfaces. Classical homeopaths train their clients to observe and document all changes in behavior, even those that ordinarily seem insignificant.

Homeopathy in action
Judith Herman, DVM, practiced conventional veterinary medicine in Augusta, Maine, for 15 years until, in the early 1990s, she watched a horse die from a vaccine reaction. Alternatives to by-the-book conventional care suddenly seemed more interesting. At about the same time, two of her canine patients responded well to homeopathic remedies and their owners suggested she look into the subject.

Dr. Herman joined a homeopathic study group and liked what she found. “It made sense,” she says, “and most importantly, it worked.” In 1993, she enrolled in the Academy of Veterinary Homeopathy and studied with its founder, Richard Pitcairn, DVM, PhD. Today her practice focuses almost exclusively on homeopathy, and she heads the AVH certification committee.

The most common conditions Dr. Herman treats include fevers, urinary tract infections, whelping problems, irritable bowel disease, pancreatitis, ACL (anterior cruciate ligament) injuries, kennel cough, chronic skin diseases such as sarcoptic mange, autoimmune disorders, and cancers.

Sometimes the results are immediate and dramatic. This summer, Dr. Herman’s veterinary technician raced to the clinic with her puppy and the toxic brown mushroom the puppy had just bitten. “The puppy had excruciating cramps, projectile vomiting, and diarrhea,” she says. “This type of poisoning usually requires hospitalization, but within 10 to 15 minutes of being dosed with homeopathic arsenicum, which was the remedy that best matched her symptoms, she was fine and needed no other treatment.”

Even a dog hit by a car and suffering multiple factures can be treated with homeopathy. In that situation, Dr. Herman gives a remedy to help with the immediate problem, then sets the bones or sends the dog to another veterinarian for treatment, and follows up with a remedy that speeds healing. “If a dog undergoes surgery,” she says, “homeopathy cuts the recovery time by half or more. I truly can’t think of any condition or situation where I wouldn’t try homeopathy first.”

Dosing and antidoting
Homeopathic remedies are different from conventional drugs in several ways. Because they preserve the “energy” or “vibration” of the substances they’re made from, it’s important to preserve their energy signature by storing and using them correctly.

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Don’t store homeopathic remedies in kitchen cupboards or bathroom medicine cabinets. Instead, keep them in a cool, dark, quiet, dry linen closet, dresser drawer, or basement shelf. Be sure their storage area is far from sunny windows, fluorescent light fixtures, power lines, electrical appliances, cell phones, computers, microwave ovens, and fuse boxes. Keep remedy containers tightly closed when not in use.

Whether you’re treating your pet with tiny pellets from a glass or plastic vial or a small brown envelope, or administering a liquid remedy from a dropper bottle, the number of pellets or drops generally doesn’t matter. More isn’t better, especially in sensitive patients where the number of pellets or drops administered is more significant. For best results, get at least some of the remedy into the dog’s mouth and hold the mouth closed for three seconds.

Don’t touch the remedy with your hands, and discard any pellets that fall to the floor. Don’t expose remedies to strong fragrances, cigarette or incense smoke, or anything containing camphor, tea tree oil, eucalyptus, peppermint, or other strong scents. Keep your pet away from these items as well, because they can “antidote” or neutralize the remedy, even hours or days after treatment.

Give the remedy at least 30 to 60 minutes before or after feeding the dog any meal or treat. Wait at least five to ten minutes before letting the dog drink plain water.

In classical homeopathy, a single remedy is given by itself, and if it’s the correct remedy, it stimulates a cure. But in some cases, a remedy may have to be repeated, or a different remedy is needed. Homeopathy is such a complex subject that an experienced veterinary homeopath is your best guide to the selection of remedies, correct remedy strength, and the timing of use.

What to watch for
Homeopaths need detailed descriptions in order to match your dog’s symptoms to the best remedy. To provide this information, get in the habit of writing down any unusual behaviors or actions.

For example, what is your dog’s energy level? Is she more or less active than usual?

Does he have any obvious symptoms, like vomiting, diarrhea, fever, discharges, stiffness, or changes in ear position, posture, or facial expression?

Do any symptoms get better or worse with changes in weather, after rest or exercise, at a particular time of day or night, after eating, or in response to touch or pressure?

When you pet, stroke, or massage your dog, do you notice anything different, like swollen lymph nodes or muscle spasms?

Does your dog prefer warm or cool surfaces? Lying on her left or right side? Is she more or less thirsty? More or less hungry? Having more or fewer bowel movements? Changes in urination?

Has your dog’s behavior changed? Does your independent dog suddenly want to sit on your lap? Does your snuggle puppy want to go off by herself?

Keep careful track of homeopathic remedies that you administer, noting the date and time as well as any changes in your dog’s condition or behavior in the hours and days that follow.

Whether you work with a homeopath in person or by phone or e-mail, have this information handy so you can answer questions and provide accurate descriptions.

The “healing crisis”
Homeopathic treatment often includes a “healing crisis,” in which the patient gets worse before getting better. Just how much worse the patient becomes is a subject fraught with confusion and controversy.

The healing crisis, if it occurs, usually manifests within a week or two of treatment, but it can take place within a day. And sometimes, it can give rise to symptoms that seem far more dramatic than the dog’s original health problem – although, homeopaths suggest, these symptoms should resolve quickly.

Some caregivers have followed their homeopath’s instructions only to watch in horror as the dog’s minor symptoms become incredibly painful. If they aren’t able to reach their homeopath for further instructions, they may turn to a conventional veterinarian for help. Because conventional treatment interferes with homeopathy, the emergency care becomes a cause of strife between client and homeopath, and in memorable cases, homeopaths have “fired” clients who resorted to conventional care, refusing to ever see their dogs again.

In July 2000, Whole Dog Journal editor Nancy Kerns took her then-10-year-old Border Collie, Rupert, to a veterinary homeopath, with the goal of finding some lasting relief for Rupert’s chronic allergies. After taking a lengthy history and conducting a physical exam, the homeopath prescribed a remedy.

About 12 hours after being given the remedy, Rupert experienced a dramatic crisis. His ears became inflammed and filled with pus, and, in an apparent effort to find relief, he shook his head so hard, he broke a blood vessel in one ear flap. The flap quickly filled with blood and fluid and stood out from his head in a rigid and clearly painful fashion. He staggered sideways and whimpered in pain.

“I was frantic,” says Kerns. “The first thing I did was call the homeopath. But her voicemail indicated she was out of town for a few days. She did leave contact information for another veterinary homeopath who could help with emergencies, but this vet was far away, and Rupert was in agony. I felt I had to take him to a veterinarian who could see and respond to his new symptoms, and I took him to a conventional emergency vet clinic.”

Kerns knew that the conventional medical response to such a dramatic ear infection would be a prescription for antibiotics, and that the hematoma would have to be lanced, stitched, and bandaged. She also learned that steroids would be prescribed to reduce the inflammation.

“I knew from reading and writing about homeopathy that steroids and antibiotics are anethema to many homeopaths; I guessed that the practitioner I saw would be upset about these developments. But Rupert was suffering acutely; I would have done anything that would help him feel better fast.”

When the homeopath returned, Kerns steeled herself for a lecture. “Sure enough, she was furious with me,” says Kerns. “She told me that the dramatic reaction had been evidence that the remedy had worked; it was moving the problem from the inside of my dog to the outside, which is supposed to be a good thing. She told me that the steroids and antibiotics had probably set back Rupert’s healing process by weeks or months, and it would be far more difficult to stimulate his body to deal with all the chronic and now acute wreckage. And she said that if I were anyone else, she would have fired me as a client on the spot. Well, I didn’t expect or want special treatment, and I didn’t have to be asked to leave; I didn’t consult this practitioner again.

“I have heard hundreds of stories from dog owners who say that homeopathy has cured their dogs. It does seem to be a powerful tool, and sometimes succeeds where other treatments do not. But the experience I had with Rupert made me concerned about the whole process. If maintaining the purity of the treatment in hopes of a future cure is more important than alleviating my dog’s immediate suffering – well, that doesn’t fit my definition of compassionate medicine. I would try homeopathy again, but only if the practitioner understood that I would also use conventional medicine if I thought the situation warranted its use.”

Dr. Herman sympathizes. “When the dog’s condition is accurately diagnosed and the correct remedy is used,” she says, “the healing crisis, if there is one at all, should be minor. We try not to disturb it because it’s like a skirmish, a small battle, between the patient’s vital force and the disease. The remedy comes in and triggers a reaction from the vital force, and that’s when you see a temporary worsening of symptoms.”

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Last week Dr. Herman treated a young dog for kennel cough. The next day he was better, but the day after that he was suddenly worse. She reassured the owner and asked her to wait and watch a little longer, and by the following day, the dog was completely fine.

Dr. Herman’s first patient was her own Golden Retriever, Patrick. When she first took up homeopathy, she gave him a remedy for a skin condition. He improved for 24 hours, then his eyes began to tear and water. He was eating normally and was active and playful but his face was drenched. The next day his eyes were dry. That evening, he started itching and he scratched all night.

“I was definitely worried,” she says, “but he acted like himself when I called him, so I waited and hoped for the best.” By the next day, he was better and his itching and scratching decreased until those symptoms disappeared as well.

“These are examples of how a healing crisis should work,” says Dr. Herman. “The patient’s vital force is activated and healing begins from within.

“But if the patient gets dramatically worse and is in terrible pain, that’s an indication that the homeopath didn’t choose the right remedy or potency. There are over a thousand remedies and each one corresponds to a specific set of symptoms. It’s impossible to keep all this information in your head, so you have to look things up, and because several remedies treat similar combinations of symptoms, it takes time and patience to find the perfect match. Whenever I hear about a homeopathic remedy triggering an extreme healing crisis, I know it wasn’t the right remedy or potency.”

Dr. Herman appreciates the frustration of both homeopath and client when animals suffer. “The antidote to the painful effects of a wrong remedy is finding and using the right remedy or potency,” she says. “This works best if the case isn’t complicated by the administration of symptom-suppressing drugs.”

At the same time, Dr. Herman acknowledges, “We never want our dogs to suffer. I respect my clients’ decisions about treatment even when I would prefer to do something different, and so do most of the veterinary homeopaths I know. Conventional care can interrupt homeopathic treatment, but it isn’t necessarily true that it interferes to such an extent that the dog can’t ever be successfully treated with homeopathy in the future.”

Finding the right homeopath
Searching for the right veterinary homeopath is like searching for the perfect dentist, hairdresser, or dog trainer. You want someone with the right combination of technical skill, patience, and personality. Some conventional veterinarians consult with and recommend veterinary homeopaths. Trainers, groomers, dog clubs, health food stores, and pet supply stores may be able to refer you to a local homeopath. Some homeopaths maintain websites that explain the subject in detail.

One of the best ways to find a veterinary homeopath, Dr. Herman advises, is to go to the website for the Academy of Veterinary Homeopathy (see “Resources Mentioned in This Article,” page 13). “Here the veterinarians who are certified have gone through a long process of evaluation and testing,” she explains. “They use a standard of practice that follows the Organon, the teachings of Hahnemann. They must maintain continuing education credits. Certification stands for a proven level of understanding and competence in these practitioners. The dog’s guardian will feel more confidence in the abilities of a certified veterinary homeopath than someone of unknown credentials.”

A veterinary homeopath who is always available for follow-up questions is a blessing, especially for new clients. “I’m on call for my clients 24/7,” says Dr. Herman. “They want to know whether they should repeat a remedy, give a new remedy, or go to the emergency room. Much of my work is a combination of education and hand-holding.”

Sometimes the homeopath is a considerable distance away, working with clients or conventional veterinarians by phone or email. Long-distance consultations are common.

“When I travel in North America,” says Dr. Herman, “I’m in phone contact with my clients, but when I go to Europe, a veterinary homeopath in Louisiana covers for me, and I do the same for her when she travels.”

Is your dog a candidate?
Although most homeopaths believe that homeopathy can help any dog in any condition, some dogs are better candidates for success than others.

“The most challenging cases,” says Dr. Herman, “are older dogs with long-standing chronic conditions, especially those who are fed a supermarket kibble and have received annual vaccinations along with conventional symptom-suppressing drugs. I feed a raw diet and recommend it to my clients because, in my experience, dogs on raw food respond better and faster to homeopathy. Younger dogs who are otherwise in good health, physically active, and on a raw diet usually respond quickly to remedies.”

For those who aren’t able to feed raw, Dr. Herman recommends upgrading the commercial diet and adding raw meat whenever possible. “And even those who switch to raw may have to experiment,” she says. “We have a few dogs who do best on a raw diet that includes some grains, while most do better on a grain-free diet. My own dog hates vegetables. There isn’t a single diet that’s perfect for all dogs, but the more you feed fresh, raw, high-quality ingredients, the more likely it is that your dog will respond well to homeopathy.”

Some veterinary homeopaths report that the patient’s response to homeopathy can be enhanced by supplements that improve digestion and assimilation, including probiotics and digestive enzymes.

Are you a candidate?
Healthcare is so strongly affected by cultural conditioning that many people will never consider trying homeopathy. It’s just too different from what they’re used to.

Others may be interested but are so used to suppressing symptoms that the thought of letting a fever run its course or waiting through a day of discomfort raises their own stress levels. The clients most likely to obtain good results are those who learn the basics of homeopathy, know how to administer remedies, carefully observe their pets, and record symptoms. These clients understand that homeopathy isn’t necessarily a quick fix and that problems a conventional veterinarian might diagnose as acute or new, like ear infections, usually aren’t acute at all – they’re chronic problems that just got worse.

“Yes, you can suppress the symptoms with drugs,” says Dr. Herman, “but the symptoms will come back and will be harder to cure. That’s what most people have trouble grasping. They’re used to thinking that once symptoms disappear, the patient is cured forever. But we all know dogs who get treated with symptom-suppressing drugs and whose problems keep coming back. In truth, the symptoms never went away, they just got buried for a while.

“In the end,” she says, “everything depends on the caregiver. That includes the person’s interest in the healing process and his or her expectations. My job is to make the animal as comfortable as I can while respecting the owner’s decisions.”

Dr. Herman’s first patient, her own Patrick, convinced her of the value of homeopathy. “Most Golden Retrievers have inherited health problems,” she says, “and he was no exception. His mother died of lymphoma 10 months after giving birth. His father died at seven of hemangiosarcoma. I removed a precancerous tumor from Patrick when he was one year old. His hips popped out for the first year of his life, and he had chronic hip problems.”

Patrick was three when Dr. Herman discovered homeopathy. “Thanks to the right remedy, his skin improved every year, becoming less and less of a problem as he got older,” she says. “He didn’t begin limping until he was 11, and he was still active and enjoying life. At age 14, he suffered a seizure and I realized he had a brain tumor. We had four more months together, and then he passed on.

“When I told his breeder, she was amazed that he lived so long because every other dog in his line had died by age eight. I was the only one who fed a raw diet and used homeopathy. Everyone in his line – aunts, uncles, parents, grandparents, siblings, nieces, and nephews – died at age seven or eight, and Patrick lived almost twice that long with so few problems. He’s a big reason why you I am convinced that homeopathy, even in a worst case, can always do something to help a dog.”

CJ Puotinen, a frequent contributor to Whole Dog Journal, is the author of The Encyclopedia of Natural Pet Care, which describes several energy healing techniques.

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