Swedish dog owner Nina Ottosson first marketed some of her puzzles and games for dogs in Sweden in 1993; we first heard about them (and reviewed the original wood versions) in 2008. Since then, probably in a defensive response to a number of cheap plastic knockoffs of her designs, Ottosson has developed a line of high-quality plastic toys, though the original, beautiful wood models that are made in Sweden are still available. The wood ones are sturdy and gorgeous – and more expensive. The plastic ones are also quite rugged, holding up to all sorts of clawing and even being picked up and dropped and continuing to work perfectly.
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We tested one of the knockoffs, as well as Ottosson’s plastic “Dog Twister” model; there was no comparison. Our dogs were finished with the knockoff in minutes; but many designs of the Ottosson toys, like the Dog Twister, are designed with several levels of difficulty and continue to provide a challenge for dogs after months of play. In addition, Ottosson makes more complex toys and simpler toys; as her website says, “Whether you have a ‘Forrest Gump’ or an ‘Albert Einstein’, there is a Nina Ottosson game design to suit every dog!” (Even our young cats got into the action, using their claws to manipulate the pieces; Ottosson indicates which of the toys are appropriate for cats!)
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These toys are great for occupying puppies, giving non-ambulatory or post-surgical dogs something to do, or just amusing yourself while amusing your dog!
We purchased from Amazon.com, but the toys are available from a number of online retailers, listed on the website below.
Dog Twister, Plastic – $42
Nina Ottosson Dog Activity Toys Karlskoga, Sweden 46-586-30034 nina-ottosson.com
There is a short list of attributes that we look for in a treat: It should be mostly or all-meat (that’s the definition of high-value, in the opinion of most dogs); it should be dehydrated or freeze-dried (to make it convenient and not greasy in a pocket); it should be small (so we can feed a lot of them without filling up or boring the dog). That’s it!
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Bravo!, maker of top-quality frozen raw diets, recently introduced a line of freeze-dried meat treats that meet all of our selection criteria. They come in four varieties: all-beef “hot dogs,” turkey, buffalo, and “Trail Mix,” which contains those three plus tiny cubes of freeze-dried cheese. We like the latter best, because the variety seems to hold our dogs’ attention longer. Bravo! uses only domestic sources of responsibly raised meats. We purchased from a local pet supply store; retailers are listed on Bravo’s website. Bravo! treats are also sold by online retailers such as cleanrun.com.
Dog poop presents the environmentalist with a real problem. We would hazard a guess that most of us do the worst possible thing: use a plastic bag to pick up poo, and then throw it in a garbage can, bound for a landfill somewhere.
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Here is an environmentally responsible alternative: bags made of polyvinyl alcohol, which you use to pick up poop and dispose in a toilet. Flush Puppies feel and perform like plastic, but when immersed in water (as they would be if flushed down a toilet), they completely degrade into water and carbon dioxide in about four days. They are safe and approved in waste water treatment systems and septic tanks. Flush Puppies contain no petroleum products (like plastics), so if you are closer to a trash can than a toilet, you can feel better about disposing them instead of a plastic bag, which takes much longer to biodegrade.
We really like these large, sturdy bags – and so did all the dog-owning friends we gave them to as stocking stuffers! The only complaint we heard was that it was difficult to tie a knot in the bags. The maker actually advises against knotting the bags if you intend to flush them; the knot takes much longer to break down in water. We found that the bags contained poo odor sufficiently to finish our walks if we just twisted the neck of the bag and held it by the twisted section. We purchased from Amazon.com; retailers are listed on the Flush Puppies website.
Flush Puppies – 60 bags for $9
Pawesome Pet Products, LLC Boca Raton, Florida (855) 766-7224 flushpuppies.com
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Headline news over the weekend: South Caroline woman contracts rabies; first human case in that state in 50 years. This comes on the heels of hearing news from East Coast animal shelters that they’ve been seeing cases of rabies in cats. All in all, pretty alarming news. Today and in the U.S., most people take it for granted that rabies is a distant, old-timey threat, sort of like smallpox. But rabies has not been eradicated – far from it. It’s still common in wildlife, and a threat to any unvaccinated mammal who comes into contact with an infected species.
There is plenty of evidence that vaccination against rabies can cause health problems in a certain small percentage of sensitive individual dogs, and that, by law, the vaccination is over-administered to dogs. That’s one of the reasons we so avidly support the work of the Rabies Challenge Fund, which seeks to provide legitimate studies that could be used to help lobby for a change in state laws allowing for less-frequent vaccination. But none of this should be any justification for not vaccinating dogs.
I only mentioning this last line because I’ve been seeing frequent postings of articles about overvaccination followed by informal discussions or comments from people saying things like, “I don’t vaccinate any of my animals anymore, and they are far healthier for it!” That’s a dangerous position to take – and I’d guess, one with more potential for harm than overvaccination.
Of course we don’t want our dogs to be overvaccinated. But with rabies, no vaccination at all is worse. The disease is 99.9 percent fatal. And it’s staging a current comeback on our shores right now.
Every year we come across a few dog-related items that make an immediate and/or lasting impact on our dogs or our dog-care regimen, and we feature them here. This year, we also asked our readers, via the Whole Dog Journal Facebook page, for their nominations for “Gear of the Year.” Some of the items here are their selections.
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Nina Ottosson Dog Activity Toys
Swedish dog owner Nina Ottosson first marketed some of her puzzles and games for dogs in Sweden in 1993; we first heard about them (and reviewed the original wood versions) in 2008. Since then, probably in a defensive response to a number of cheap plastic knockoffs of her designs, Ottosson has developed a line of high-quality plastic toys, though the original, beautiful wood models that are made in Sweden are still available. The wood ones are sturdy and gorgeous – and more expensive. The plastic ones are also quite rugged, holding up to all sorts of clawing and even being picked up and dropped and continuing to work perfectly.
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We tested one of the knockoffs, as well as Ottosson’s plastic “Dog Twister” model; there was no comparison. Our dogs were finished with the knockoff in minutes; but many designs of the Ottosson toys, like the Dog Twister, are designed with several levels of difficulty and continue to provide a challenge for dogs after months of play. In addition, Ottosson makes more complex toys and simpler toys; as her website says, “Whether you have a ‘Forrest Gump’ or an ‘Albert Einstein’, there is a Nina Ottosson game design to suit every dog!” (Even our young cats got into the action, using their claws to manipulate the pieces; Ottosson indicates which of the toys are appropriate for cats!)
These toys are great for occupying puppies, giving non-ambulatory or post-surgical dogs something to do, or just amusing yourself while amusing your dog!
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We purchased from Amazon.com, but the toys are available from a number of online retailers, listed on the website below. dog twister, plastic – $42
Nina Ottosson Dog Activity Toys Karlskoga, Sweden 46-586-30034 nina-ottosson.com
Car Seat Covers
The last time we bought a car seat cover meant especially for protecting the car from the wear and tear (and moisture and dirt and hair) of dogs, IT smelled so bad that we returned it without ever trying its fit in the car. (We did let it air out, fully unfolded, for two days on a clothesline ; it still stunk.) We’ve been reluctant to try another model since then; instead, we’ve habitually covered the back seat with a large bed sheet.
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A few months ago, we tried again. We purchased the Solvit Deluxe Bench Seat Cover, a machine-washable (polyester with a suede-like finish) cover with a water-resistant backing. It installed easily, with adjustable straps that go around the headrests, and lined openings for the seat belts to pass through. (There are some other straps and hooks under the cover that are meant to pass under the cushions and fasten under the seat somewhere, but our car’s seat is fastened right to the floor. We didn’t use those straps, and yet it doesn’t seem to matter; the cover stays put anyway.)
We love it. First, because it didn’t smell bad. Also, no moisture from our wet, muddy dogs passes through to the seats. Hair and stickers stick to the cover, rather than the car – and yet, when we took the dirty cover out of the car and shook it, most of the hair and stickers flew off. The cover looked so presentable after the shaking, that we didn’t wash it that first time; we just put it back into the car!
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We purchased from Amazon.com, but a list of other retailers can be found on the Solvit website.
We’re always looking for items that satisfy our dogs’ need to chew – and that are as safe as possible. The animal hooves that are sold in pet supply stores are often too hard (risking broken teeth); and many rawhide, tendon, and “pizzles” chews present a risk of being swallowed in large enough chunks that bowl obstruction becomes a concern. We’re not fans of any of those green chews, which contain a ton of wheat byproducts. But antlers have become a recent obsession with our dogs. They are hard, but not quite as hard as cow hooves, and they last a lot longer than any rawhide-type chews. Best of all, they have that animal-product appeal for dogs – and the animals that provided them don’t have to die (deer and elk shed their antlers annually, and they are collected for this purpose).
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There are a number of companies selling deer antler chews. We suggest looking for those that are sourced in the U.S., from animals that have been organically raised. Always take away any chew item from your dog when it is chewed down to a size that could be swallowed. We purchased from Amazon.com, but antler chews can also be purchased directly from the Chasing Our Tails website.
Deer Rack Snack – $9
Chasing Our Tails, Inc. Hudson, New Hampshire (866) 967-0152 chasingourtails.com
Leedz
We’re obsessed with leashes. Our favorites are simple, strong, and well-made of quality materials. And they have to feel good in the hand. Leedz leashes meet all those criteria – especially the feel in the hand. They are made of a particularly silky synthetic rope that stays smooth even after lots of daily use. Each has a generously sized loop handle.
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Leedz are made by Purple Pebble (a pet products company that also offers some very nice fleecy “Cuddle Mats” for use alone or in a crate). They are offered in two diameters: the 5/8” is recommended for big dogs and comes in 2’, 4’, and 6’ lengths; the 6’ length is available with either a snap on the end or a slip noose. The 3/8” comes in a 6’ length with a snap end or a 4’ length with a slip end.
Leedz – $23
Purple Pebble West Milford, New Jersey (201) 444-7439 purplepebble.com
Freeze Dried Meat Treats
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There is a short list of attributes that we look for in a treat: It should be mostly or all-meat (that’s the definition of high-value, in the opinion of most dogs); it should be dehydrated or freeze-dried (to make it convenient and not greasy in a pocket); it should be small (so we can feed a lot of them without filling up or boring the dog). That’s it!
Bravo!, maker of top-quality frozen raw diets, recently introduced a line of freeze-dried meat treats that meet all of our selection criteria. They come in four varieties: all-beef “hot dogs,” turkey, buffalo, and “Trail Mix,” which contains those three plus tiny cubes of freeze-dried cheese. We like the latter best, because the variety seems to hold our dogs’ attention longer. Bravo! uses only domestic sources of responsibly raised meats. We purchased from a local pet supply store; retailers are listed on Bravo’s website. Bravo! treats are also sold by online retailers such as cleanrun.com.
Dog poop presents the environmentalist with a real problem. We would hazard a guess that most of us do the worst possible thing: use a plastic bag to pick up poo, and then throw it in a garbage can, bound for a landfill somewhere.
Here is an environmentally responsible alternative: bags made of polyvinyl alcohol, which you use to pick up poop and dispose in a toilet. Flush Puppies feel and perform like plastic, but when immersed in water (as they would be if flushed down a toilet), they completely degrade into water and carbon dioxide in about four days. They are safe and approved in waste water treatment systems and septic tanks. Flush Puppies contain no petroleum products (like plastics), so if you are closer to a trash can than a toilet, you can feel better about disposing them instead of a plastic bag, which takes much longer to biodegrade.
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We really like these large, sturdy bags – and so did all the dog-owning friends we gave them to as stocking stuffers! The only complaint we heard was that it was difficult to tie a knot in the bags. The maker actually advises against knotting the bags if you intend to flush them; the knot takes much longer to break down in water. We found that the bags contained poo odor sufficiently to finish our walks if we just twisted the neck of the bag and held it by the twisted section. We purchased from Amazon.com; retailers are listed on the Flush Puppies website.
Flush Puppies – 60 bags for $9
Pawesome Pet Products, LLC Boca Raton, Florida (855) 766-7224 flushpuppies.com
The first adult dogs I adopted after beginning my animal protection career at the Marin Humane Society was Mandy, a tri-color Rough Collie who was surrendered to the shelter by her owner at eight years of age because she was leaking urine – she had spay incontinence. I am a sucker for Collies (my childhood companion and confidante was a Collie), and I offered to foster her, brush out her matted fur, and medicate the urine burns on her legs. She came home with me and laid down on the living room floor as if she’d lived there forever. Medication for her incontinence quickly resolved her leaking problem, and she stayed with me for the rest of her life, until she died of a stroke at age 13.
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Few (if any) dogs will arrive in a new home and immediately understand and follow all the house rules, get along with every member of the family (human, canine, feline, etc.), and display perfect health as they consume and perfectly digest whatever food they are given. Rather, all dogs present their new families with unique health issues and behaviors; you never know what you are going to get along with the darling face you fell in love with at the shelter. Your new family member may need medical care, remedial training, and/or socialization in order to adjust and adapt to their new circumstances.
Here are the short stories of our current adult-adoption canine family:
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We adopted Dubhy (pronounced “Duffy,” means “Dark” in Gaelic) a Scottish Terrier, when he was about 6 months old. He was in a shelter A former stray, he’s now 11 years old. Dubhy actually came with no noticeable behavior challenges, but became reactive to other dogs as he matured.
Lucy (short for “Footloose and Fancy Free”), our Cardigan Corgi, was surrendered by her former owner to my husband’s shelter (Paul is the executive director of the Humane Society of Washington County, Maryland), when she was about 7 months old. I’m sure it was because her high energy level (in a home with small children) was problematic. I had long wanted a Corgi. She arrived with high energy, borderline canine compulsive behavior (spinning), and a shrill voice she didn’t hesitate to use. Living on a farm, doing barn chores, and going for daily hikes quickly resolved the energy/compulsive behavior issues. Lucy is now about 8 years old. We live with – and manage – the voice.
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We call Bonnie (Bonnie Wee Lass) a “Scorgidoodle” – we think she’s a mix of Scottie, Corgi, and Poodle. We adopted her when she was about 6 months old; she’s now 6 years old. Bonnie was surrendered to the shelter by her owners because they couldn’t housetrain her. She was a submissive urinator. Careful management and modification has reduced her urination incidents to a rare occasion.
Missy, our Australian Shepherd, was all of 8 years old when we adopted her; she’s now 13. We were Missy’s fourth home in 12 months. I suspect she had one long-term owner who had to give her up for some reason, and the separation issues she demonstrated within the first 24 hours in our home likely resulted in her being passed from home to home until she landed with us. Fortunately her behavior is at the “distress” end of the scale, not the “anxiety” end; it manifests only as vocalization (barking). Because I work from my home office, and we have no nearby neighbors, we are able to easily manage this behavior.
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Scooter, our Pomeranian, was also about 8 years old when we adopted him; he’s now 10. Scooter was on the euthanasia list at our shelter after failing part of his behavioral assessment by the shelter staff; he very fiercely guarded resources. The staff knew I had taken an interest in the little guy, and contacted me after the behavior assessment.
As it turned out, while he may act fierce from time to time, Scooter has superb bite inhibition – which means that it doesn’t hurt when he bites. Having been on the receiving end of his ferocity on more than one occasion, I can attest to the fact that there is no pressure from his teeth when he puts his mouth on your skin. It’s a simple matter to manage his resource guarding by not pestering him when he has a valuable resource in his possession, or by trading it for a high-value treat if he has something that we need to take away (which rarely happens).
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Scooter had another troubling habit when he first arrived in our house; he frequently peed in the house, lifting his leg on anything and everything. Fortunately, a discussion of the problem with our veterinarian and an examination resulted in a quick resolution of this “training problem.” After having surgery to remove a cherry-sized bladder stone, which was preventing him from fully emptying his bladder outside (and causing him to almost stand on his head to pee), Scooter stopped peeing in the house. Can you imagine how tragic it would have been for him if he had been living with someone who punished him for his “stubbornness”? His story is a good reminder to always give a dog the benefit of the doubt – and look for factors beyond the dog’s control – when problematic behavior persists.
So, you’ve recently adopted an adolescent or adult dog, or you’re planning to adopt one from a rescue group or shelter in the near future. Good for you! It generally takes adult dogs a lot longer to get adopted than those irresistible, pudgy puppies – even when they are calmer, better-socialized, house-trained, and past the “chew everything in sight” stage. Shelter staffers often shake their heads as families pass up ideal, kid-friendly adult dogs in favor of pups of some highly inappropriate breed or type, just because they are puppies.
There are a multitude of benefits when you bring an adult dog into your family. You don’t have to deal with those nasty-sharp puppy teeth. And because your dog has her adult teeth, she is less likely to chew everything within her reach. If not already housetrained (and many are), a mature dog at least has the physical ability to hold bowels and bladder for longer periods of time, and can usually learn appropriate bathroom habits quickly, with proper management and training.
Plus, an adult needs to be fed only twice a day, whereas young puppies need lunch as well as breakfast and dinner. And healthy, mature dogs are capable of more physical activity than puppies, so if you’re looking for a ready-made exercise partner, you don’t have to wait months for your running buddy to accompany you as you prepare for your next 10k run. As an added benefit, you have that feel-good feeling that comes with adopting a dog who might otherwise not find her forever home.
I do not, by any means, intend to imply that adopting an adult dog is all smooth sailing. Many shelter dogs settle into their new homes without a ripple, but some arrive with minor behavioral challenges, and others carry with them a significant amount of baggage. Don’t despair! If you’re grounded in the reality that no dog is perfect from the get-go, and you’re prepared and poised to help your new dog learn your household rules, conventions, and codes of conduct starting on day 1, his potential for success in your family is very good.
Make Your Own Evaluation of Your Adoption Prospects
Most shelters do some sort of behavior evaluation of the dogs in their care, so you may be warned about potentially inappropriate behaviors. This may come in the form of answers on a questionnaire (if your new dog had been surrendered to the shelter by her previous owner), or notes from a staff member or a volunteer based on their observations. If you don’t allow yourself to get distracted by the shelter’s commotion, you’ll have the opportunity to make your own observations about the potential adoptee during an introduction session. Behaviors like lifting his leg in the get-acquainted room, counter-surfing to snatch toys or treats off the table, or leaping into your lap when you sit on a chair are likely to be repeated in his new environment.
Again: Don’t let these sorts of minor transgressions dissuade you from adopting the dog. All of these are typical for untrained dogs – and absolutely expected from untrained puppies!
What if your new adoptee does seem perfect? While that would be nice, it’s also possible that you will experience a “honeymoon period” with your new family member, one that may range anywhere from a few days to several months. Unforeseen behaviors may manifest over time, as the dog tests new behavioral strategies and discovers which ones are reinforced (by you, by other family members, by visitors, or by the environment), or as she recovers from the recent traumas in her life. She may become bolder about engaging in behaviors that were temporarily shut-down by the stress of her recent life experiences.
If you’re prepared for unwanted behaviors to surface, it will be easier to work through them. If tempted to give up when poor manners emerge, keep in mind that your adoptee’s previous owner(s) already gave up on her at least once, if not several times.
Be Prepared to Manage Behavioral Problems
The first, almost universal answer to the question of handling behavior problems is management, hand-in-hand with a medical exam.
These days, many shelter dogs come with a free “well-pet exam.” Commonly, private veterinarians in practice near a shelter generously offer their services at a discount for dogs adopted from the shelter or rescue. Take advantage of the offer as soon as possible. If your dog doesn’t come with a free check-up, make an appointment for the veterinarian you’ve interviewed and selected to be your dog’s doctor.
It’s not uncommon for a previously undetected health problem that could lead to behavior issues to be identified at this time. For example, my husband and I adopted an adult Pomeranian, who lifted his leg and peed in the house – a lot! The veterinarian who provided a reduced-cost exam diagnosed a bladder stone, the removal of which quickly resolved Scooter’s house soiling behavior.
Management’s role is also critical in modifying your adopted dog’s behavior. The more often she gets to practice (and be reinforced for) an inappropriate behavior, the harder it is to modify that behavior down the road. The behavior becomes a well-practiced habit; she’ll be convinced that it will pay off if she just tries hard enough, or often enough. Don’t wait “to give her time to settle in.” Start reinforcing the behaviors you like the most (such as polite sitting) ASAP.
Common (Mis)Behaviors in Adult Rescue Dogs
Here are some common misbehaviors you might find in adult shelter dogs, along with some tips on how to work with them. If you have to prioritize a list of undesirable behaviors that came with your adopted dog, I’d suggest you start with the first two that follow: house soiling and separation anxiety, as they are two that are most likely to cause your dog to lose her happy home, yet again.
House Soiling – Some adult shelter dogs are already housetrained. Some are not. Depending on how house-proud you are, house soiling may be a minor annoyance, or a major affront to your sensibilities. When you bring your shelter dog home, assume she isn’t housetrained, and put her on an express puppy housetraining schedule: Under constant supervision (with the help of baby gates, closed doors, and leashes) or in a crate or exercise pen. Of course, you must crate train her if she isn’t already, in order to take advantage of this valuable management tool. If you just toss her in her crate and leave, you risk teaching her to hate her crate. (See “The Benefits of Crate Training Your Dog from an Early Age,” January 2011.)
Take her outside every hour on the hour for the first day or two, and reward and praise on the spot when she eliminates. If she seems to be getting the idea, over the course of a few days, gradually give her more house freedom and extend the time between trips outside. If gradual freedom results in house accidents, go back to more supervision (and clean the soiled spots well with an enzymatic cleaner designed for cleaning up animal waste).
If you catch her mid-accident, cheerfully interrupt her with an “Oops! Outside!” Take her to her potty spot – and make a mental note to amp up your supervision and increase her bathroom opportunities. Do not make a big deal, or you risk teaching her it’s not safe to go in your presence. Good luck getting her to go to the bathroom on leash if that happens!
At first, don’t crate your dog for more than four hours at a time. That might mean hiring a dog walker if no one in the family can come home and let her out at lunchtime. Eight hours at night is acceptable, as long as she is crated where you can hear her (preferably in your bedroom) if she wakes up and asks to go out. If your dog soils her crate or exercise pen during a reasonable period of confinement, you have a bigger challenge ahead of you. You may need to reverse crate train, which means putting her in the crate for short periods, only when you know she is “empty,” and having her under your direct supervision when she’s not crated.
If your dog is having inexplicable accidents despite your excellent management, head back to the vet to determine if she has a urinary tract infection (which makes it impossible for her to hold her urine for very long), loose stools (which would make it impossible to hold her bowel movements for long), or some other condition that makes it difficult or impossible for her to be housetrained.
“Marking” is a different behavior from simple housesoiling. It is sometimes (but not always) resolved by neutering. Persistent marking can be caused by stress. If that’s the case with your shelter dog, removing as much stress as possible from his life may help. You may need to engage the services of a qualified behavior professional who uses positive reinforcement methods. Belly-bands and “PeeKeepers” (see peekeeper.com) are useful house-preserving tools to use on your dog while you try to modify marking behavior. (For more about dogs who “mark” indoors, see “Ways to Combat Your Dog’s Indoor Urine-Marking,” September 2009.)
Separation anxiety – Full-blown separation anxiety can be an extremely challenging behavior to live with, manage, and modify. For starters, most dogs with significant separation or isolation issues don’t tolerate a crate well, so the “confine them to keep them out of trouble” option isn’t available.
The good news is that many of these dogs actually have separation (have to be with the one person the dog has connected to) or isolation (doesn’t like to be left alone) distress, rather than true anxiety. The intensity of canine behavior with these conditions is on a continuum from low level intensity (unhappy, but calms down after a reasonably short time, without destroying the house) to extreme panic (dog injures himself, vocalizes non-stop for hours on end, and causes massive destruction to household). If your shelter adoptee is demonstrating anxiety on the extreme end of the continuum, a trip to the veterinarian for anti-anxiety medications is in order. This will make life easier for her, and for you, while you work to modify her behaviors. (For more information about separation anxiety and separation distress, see “How to Manage Separation Anxiety in Dogs,” July 2008.)
Dr. Karen Overall’s very detailed, “Protocol for Relaxation” is useful for modifying separation/isolation distress. A downloadable, auditory version can be found at championofmyheart.com/relaxation-protocol-mp3-files.
Vocalizing – There are many different kinds of canine vocalizations: barking, whining, howling, yelping, growling, and more. You may not want to stop all of your dog’s noisemaking, but there may be some you’d prefer to minimize. It’s important that you learn and understand what each one means before simply trying to make them all go away. There may even be some you decide you’d like to reinforce! (For more about training your dog to be quieter, see “Modifying Your Dog’s Barking Behavior,” July 2007.)
Chewing – If you think adopting an adult dog is guaranteed to save you from chewing disasters, think again. While puppies are the masters of chewing behavior, dogs really do chew throughout their lives. If a dog has been well managed, he will develop appropriate chew-preferences and be reasonably trustworthy around your possessions. If he was allowed to run amuck as a pup and chew whatever he wanted, then nothing in your home is safe.
Of course, you have no way of knowing which you may have, so until she proves otherwise, you’ll need to assume that your new dog might chew anything she can get her teeth into. While you’re supervising and managing her behavior for housetraining purposes in her early days with you, keep an eagle eye out for indications of inappropriate chewing (while, of course, providing her with appropriate chew objects).
In relatively short order you should figure out if you’re home free on the chewing issue, or if you’ll need to completely overhaul her mouth behavior management and redirection. For a long-term chew-training protocol, see “Dogs and Puppies Chew for a Number of Reasons,” in the August 2007 issue.
Note: If chewing is accompanied by other undesirable behaviors such as general destruction, barking, and aversion to crating, consider separation or isolation anxiety as possibilities.
Jumping up – Remember, your dog’s jumping up has nothing to do with dominance. (See “De-bunking the “Alpha Dog” Theory,” in the December 2011 issue). She’s probably either trying to greet you, get you to pay attention to her, or perhaps seeking reassurance, if she’s stressed or frightened.
The answer to this training challenge is to make sure that no one reinforces her for jumping up. Make sure that every person who wants to greet the dog is prepared to turn his or her back and step away from her when she jumps.
Next, reinforce “sit” very generously, with high-value treats, to help this polite deference behavior become her default choice (her first behavior option – the one she chooses when she isn’t sure what to do) and make sure everyone gives her attention for sitting. (See “Train Your Dog to Greet People,” May 2008.) If she’s jumping up for reassurance, determine what is stressing her and make that stressor go away until you can help her become comfortable with it.
Pulling on Leash – Lots of dogs pull on leash. As annoying as it might be, don’t take it personally – and don’t blame dominance for this one, either! Dogs who pull just want to get where they want to go, and they want to get there faster than you do. If you want her to walk politely on leash, reinforce her generously when there’s no tension on the leash, and stop moving forward when the leash tightens.
If there are times when you know you won’t have time for the “stop and wait for loose leash” dance – for example, if you want her to jog with you – use a different kind of collar or harness that will let her know, “In this outfit you are allowed to pull.”
For more information about teaching your dog to walk on a loose leash, see “Good Dog Walking,” March 2007.
There Might Be More
There’s a good chance you will encounter other behaviors that we haven’t covered above. In every case, there is a solution to be found that can help your dog become the well-behaved companion you want her to be. You can read good books and search for answers online (and in the WDJ archives!).
Remember to look for positive solutions; you want your new dog to like you, trust you, and want to be with you. You may need to consult a qualified positive behavior professional to help you find answers. As you research the behavior and search for answers, keep these important reminders in your head at all times: Be gentle. Be clear. Be consistent. Be persistent. Be positive. Most of all, for your adopted dog’s sake, be her forever person.
Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA, is WDJ’s Training Editor. Author of numerous books on positive dog training, she lives in Fairplay, Maryland, site of her Peaceable Paws training center, where she offers dog training classes and courses for trainers.
Every so often, a little flame war will erupt in Whole Dog Journal’s Letters to the Editor, comment section on the Whole Dog Journal website, or Whole Dog Journal’s Facebook page. People will get mad. Other people will try to humor (or correct!) the angry ones. Some subscribers will cancel their subscriptions; others will pledge their support in the face of these tribulations and buy subscriptions for their friends.
I try to remain calm. The strong expression of every opinion seem to be a symptom that our feverish country is running these days, whether the topic is politics or dogs.
And the fact is, I appreciate the passion that our readers feel for dogs; I’m glad they care enough to get upset. You certainly can’t say that for many dog owners – like the ones who allow their dogs to breed indiscriminately, who think it’s stupid to buy anything but the cheapest dog food at Wal-Mart, and who wait a week before looking for their lost dog at their local shelter. In my impoverished, rural corner of this great state of California, I’m surrounded by many of these apathetic dog owners. It makes me appreciate the caring, concerned owners I know – and it makes me really appreciate those of you who are devoted enough to your dogs to seek out educational resources like WDJ. Thank you for your commitment to your canine companions.
Yes, I’m even thanking you, the person who wrote a contentious note (or post or email) about something in WDJ (or on our Facebook page) that rubbed you the wrong way. I respect your opinion.
I have a favor to ask, however: Let’s all be respectful of each other when expressing our opinions. The fact is, there is always more than one way to achieve anything. And what works for one person or dog might not work for the next. Conversely, what might send my dog running away from you in fear (say, a hearty two-handed chest thumping) might just get your dog psyched and ready to run an agility course.
We do express opinions here at WDJ; we get to take a stand on topics like the use of physical or emotional punishment (we’re against it); the inclusion of certain synthetic vitamin K supplements in dog food (we haven’t yet seen any compelling evidence to worry about it); or the practice of conducting titer tests in lieu of automatic revaccination (we’re strongly for this). We try to support our views with substantive evidence and input from experts we respect.
But are we always right, for you and your dog? We couldn’t possibly be. Nor could you be right about every other dog. We’d be interested in hearing your view, anyway.
So let’s refrain from insults or knee-jerk judgments, and politely consider each other’s opinions – keeping our dogs’ well-being foremost in our considerations.
The October and November 2011 issues of Whole Dog Journal provided in-depth discussion of canine Addison’s and Cushing’s diseases. The following information should help clarify other questions that may arise about the diagnosis of canine adrenal disorders.
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The relationships between adrenal cortisol and sex steroid production is complicated. In chronic illnesses, the body’s adrenal glands can become exhausted or fatigued. The adrenal glands may then respond by increasing the output of cortisol, and the intermediate and sex steroids. However, while the role of increased adrenal sex hormones, such as 17-hydroxyprogesterone and androstenedione, in promoting atypical Cushing’s disease is established, the role of increased estrogens, such as estradiol, in promoting SARDS (sudden acquired retinal degeneration syndrome) is scientifically unproven.
Part of this problem arises because of the documented differences between these sex steroid pathways in people and dogs. For example, in people, DHEA (dehydroxyepiandrosterone) activity is an important adrenal component in assessing body function and plays a role in obesity; it is frequently used as a supplement. By contrast, the normal levels of DHEA in dogs have not been established, and the potential benefit of DHEA supplements is unclear and may even be harmful.
Similarly, in people, estrogen assays include total estrogen as well as estrogen components, like beta-estradiol and estrone. In dogs, by contrast, the biologically important and regulatory estrogen is beta-estradiol. When the total estrogen concentration is measured in dog serum, it not only measures beta-estradiol but also detects all the metabolic breakdown products of this hormone, thereby leading to an apparent elevation in the total estrogen concentration, when it may not be truly functionally elevated. Thus, measuring total estrogen activity in dogs will likely give misleading results and lead to erroneous conclusions.
Likewise, measuring basal or resting cortisol activity in animals is misleading, because the cortisol is released from the adrenal gland continuously in pulsatile fashion over a 24-hour period. A single cortisol measurement is meaningless, regardless if it’s low, normal, or high, and is the reason that only dynamic tests of adrenal function (ACTH stimulation, LDDS suppression, and tests for the adrenal steroid intermediate hormones) accurately determine adrenal function.
-Adrenal exhaustion (also called adrenal fatigue) occurs when the adrenal gland (which produces cortisol in response to stress) has been over-stimulated and cannot function properly. Adrenal exhaustion is typically a transient condition and can result in impaired activity of the master glands such as the thyroid gland. Once the reason for the adrenal exhaustion is resolved, thyroid function should return to normal. In the meantime, however, nutritional supplements that offer thyroid support may be indicated and can be beneficial.
-Many physicians and veterinarians resist prescribing thyroid treatment in cases of adrenal exhaustion, because they are not technically treating a thyroid disorder, they are treating a temporary adrenal malfunction syndrome. To that, we say that if the patient shows marked improvement with thyroid hormone replacement and/or nutritional thyroid support, then why withhold appropriate and beneficial therapy? The fact remains that you are treating a thyroid responsive disease – and the patient is getting better !
Reliable Diagnostic Tests of Adrenal Function Because of the complexity of the adrenal axis and its regulation by the body’s master glands, the importance of relying on assays performed only by an established commercial or university-based veterinary diagnostic reference laboratory is paramount. These diagnostic laboratories all participate in the national VLA Quality Assurance Program or the similar CAP Quality Assurance testing to document the accuracy of their laboratory procedures.
For comprehensive adrenal function testing, one of the most respected panels is obtained from the Clinical Endocrinology Service at the University of Tennessee, Knoxville (the late Dr. Jack Oliver’s program): vet.utk.edu/diagnostic/endocrinology.
W. Jean Dodds, DVM Garden Grove, CA
I would like to bring readers’ attention to an excellent new book that dovetails nicely with my recent article (“Alpha, Schmalpha,” December 2011) about canine “dominance.”
Part Wild: One Woman’s Journey with a Creature Caught Between the Worlds of Dogs and Wolves is a compelling and scientifically accurate recounting of author Ceiridwen Terrill’s challenging experiences as the naïve owner of a wolf-hybrid.
An engaging and articulate writer, Terrill sends two strong messages: if you are thinking of getting a wolf-hybrid as a pet, or worse, breeding them – don’t. Just don’t. And, if you believe the dominance/alpha nonsense spouted by many breeders (of hybrids and otherwise), some dog trainers, and an occasional television celebrity, please open your mind and learn more about the real science of behavior.
Terrill, an associate professor of environmental journalism and science writing at Concordia University in Portland, Oregon, weaves her science skillfully and painlessly throughout the book. I couldn’t put it down; I’ve recommended it on my Facebook page and all my training lists. If I had read it before writing “Alpha, Schmalpha” for WDJ, Terrill and Part Wild would have rated a very prominent mention in the article. Read it yourself. Then share it with any and all of your dog-owning friends who still buy into the flawed, archaic and obsolete dominance theory garbage and see if they don’t become converts.
In cases of heatstroke (hyperthermia), the goal is to gradually decrease the dog’s body temperature to about 104 F. in the first 10-15 minutes. Once 104 F. is reached, stop the cooling process and get the dog to the veterinarian as quickly as possible.
1. Move dog away from the source of heat.
2. Take the dog’s temperature; if higher than 106 F., start cooling the dog.
3. Cool the dog with cool – not cold – water (cold constricts blood vessels).
4. Monitor the dog’s temperature every two minutes to observe changes.
5. Place water-soaked towels on the head, neck, chest, and abdomen.
6. Turn on a fan and point it in the dog’s direction.
7. Alternatively, rubbing alcohol can be rubbed inside the dog’s front and back legs and/or on his paw pads; don’t use large quantities (1/2 pint) as it can be toxic.
8. Stop the cooling process once the dog’s temperature reaches 104 F.
Do not wait until the temperature falls to normal because the dog’s temperature may continue to drop.
9. If the dog’s temperature falls below 100 F., keep him warm by covering with a blanket or towel and placing a two-liter soda bottle filled with warm – not hot – water against him.
From a Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM) perspective, any medical condition is a symptom of an underlying disharmony within the body. This imbalance can be viewed through the yin and yang model, the base of TCM theory. Both exist within the body at all times. Yin represents the concepts of cooling, fluids, quietness, and passive behavior. Yang represents the concepts of heat, inflammation, outward energy, and aggressive behavior. Healthy animals have a balance between the two; any imbalance is regarded as a disease.
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Panting can thus be regarded as an imbalance between the yin (the cooling aspect of the body) and the yang (the warming part). TCM attempts to balance the entire system and tailor treatments to individual patients based on constitution, physical findings, and tongue and pulse diagnosis.
Excessive panting might have a dozen or more different treatment plans depending on the primary cause encompassing a medical condition. For example, a dog with a very bright pink tongue but weak pulses is likely yin deficient. If the tongue is red and pulse surging, the dog is likely to be considered as having excess heat. Both conditions will likely be accompanied by excess panting, but would be treated differently with herbs, stimulation of certain acupuncture points, and food therapy.
I have never owned a dog with separation anxiety, thank goodness. The condition is hard on the dog who suffers from the condition and hard on the dog’s caretakers, too, including owners, vets, groomers, pet sitters, and dog walkers. Care must be taken to prevent triggering the dog’s panic at being left alone—in severe cases, even just long enough for the person caring for the dog to use the restroom!
