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K9 Drill and Demo Teams

What brings together heelwork, tricks, music, a little high school nostalgia, and takes it all to a whole new level? K9 drill, display, and demonstration teams are not new, but as more of us are looking for different ways to showcase the rewards of positive training to the larger dog community, the concept of drill and demo teams is gathering steam.

K9 Drill and Demo Teams

Photo courtesy of Karen Hilker.

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The term “drill team” may evoke images of military marching routines (historically, military drill teams did occasionally include dogs), but today’s K9 drill and demo teams take many forms that involve dog/handler pairs. “I define it as a group of dog/handler teams,  moving in unison to create a changing picture of shapes and lines, with or without music,” says Doris Herber, a retired dog trainer and behavior consultant who participated for several years in a drill team with her Basenji, Kodi.

Herber, who has had a lifelong love for dogs and a fascination with the roles dogs play in our lives, says K9 drill team has been one of her favorite activities. Herber is a pioneer in the small community of K9 drill teams, helping others learn about and participate in this activity through her articles and creating the K9 drill team Yahoo group.

While a K9 drill team is about moving together in patterns, Herber says drill work is not bound by the rules and restrictions imposed upon many dog-related activities. She describes it as very “open” and says that the process of developing routines lends itself to creativity.

The choreographed patterns of drill routines are often similar to marching band geometric formations, but they can be more akin to a square dance or line dance as well. Handlers may move through the routines with meticulous precision or with a more footloose style. Dogs move alongside their handlers heeling on the left or right side, but may also perform other movements such as pivots, turns, sits, downs, call to front, or return to heel.

These basic actions may be expanded upon with tricks such as dogs backing up, circling handlers, handlers circling dogs, leg weaves, spins – or even theatrics or a little comedy. The great thing about this activity is that it can be anything you and your teammates want it to be.

Participating in a K9 drill and demo team can benefit dogs, handlers, and even the community at large. Drill and demo teams are a great way to:

Showcase the positive. While positive training is not a requirement for a drill or demo team, the routines lend themselves to a positive approach. The demonstrations can be a wonderful way to showcase positive training techniques or bring attention to clubs and training organizations. At demos, people notice and comment on how focused the dogs are, and how even when the members make mistakes (and mistakes will be made!) the dogs look happy. “The connection that develops between handler and dog is amazing,” says Herber, and people take notice.

Build basic skills. The behaviors practiced during drill teamwork – moving together, turns, stops, stays, and more – are applicable in everyday life. Dogs learn to work near other people and dogs and to stay focused in the face of distractions. You will have the opportunity to work around crowds and in various locations. Plus, training with and being responsible to a group provides strong motivation to practice!

Be creative! Coming up with routines, finding music, and working through the kinks can be a very creative process. “The creative exchange of ideas and the problem solving is addictive,” says Herber. Playing with patterns, movements, and putting it all together is as rewarding as participating and showing off during demonstrations.

Build relationships. Working with a group demands that you spend time with your dog. “Drill team work became one of my favorite activities because it involved much one-on-one time with Kodi,” says Herber. “This one-on-one connection is one of the best benefits of the drill team activity.” Participating in a drill and demo team can be a great way to help socialize your dog and help him or her to build successful relationships with others too. The camaraderie of training and working with other like-minded people and their dogs is an added bonus.

Have fun with your dog! “Kodi seemed to enjoy the drill team work as much as I did,” says Herber. “If I started the music, he would come running from wherever he was, look me in the eye with a ‘Let’s go!’ expression.”

Forming a Team

If your interest is piqued and you think you might like to participate in a K9 drill or demo team, look around in your community or explore local dog training clubs. You may find a local drill team that you can join. But as likely as not, participating in a drill and demo team will mean starting one of your own; there just are not that many out there yet.

K9 Drill and Demo Teams

Photo by Laura Nicole Johnson.

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To get a team started, look for like-minded people – those who love dog training and who want to put in the time and effort it will take to form and perform with a team. The members of the demo team I belong to are all part of a small local positive reinforcement-based training club. You may also find interested team members in training classes, or through friends or neighbors. A drill or demo team can have as few as 2 or as many as 40 dog and handler pairs, but we’ve found that 8 to 10 pairs works especially well.

Once you’ve found a few others to start a team with, set your team goals. Think about the types of routines you’d like to do. Your team may want to experiment as a group to find where your interests and abilities lie. Are you a formal team who would enjoy clean, crisp marching style routines? Or are you more inclined toward musical freestyle or tricks? Or a combination of both?

Your team will also need a place to practice. We meet at a local park, but you might also find space at a training facility or even through a community center. Figure that you will need a minimum of 40 x 60 feet of space, and for a larger group, you may need a little more.

You can start practicing, even before you have developed a routine. Practice basic skills such as:

Attention. Your dog will need to be able to work with you and stay focused for the length of your routine.

Heeling or walking together with pace changes, in straight lines and curved lines (perhaps on both sides).

Transitions from sit to down to stand.

Clean stops (usually in a standing position).

Turns – at minimum a right, left, and about turn, but you may want to include flashier turns as well.

Stay – especially with you walking purposefully away.

Return to heel or dog circling the handler.

Handler circling the dog.

These practices will build your skills for routines, and practicing in your group will also help the dogs get to know and trust each other before you work together on routines.

Expect the usual group dynamics in your drill and demo team – with the humans and dogs. For the humans, think about how you communicate with each other and make decisions, and who will lead your practices. Having some structure in place can help when it comes to group work, but plan to be flexible, too. For example, some team members will be able to learn routines in a few sessions; others may need a little more time and help from their teammates.

Consider the dogs’ group dynamics, too. Some of the dogs may immediately work well as part of the group, while others may see their canine teammates as playmates. Some dogs may be comfortable working near certain dogs, but less comfortable with others. Give the dogs time and space, and gently help them learn to trust each other. Even dogs who get along well with other dogs can be uncertain when it comes to “working” within a group of other dogs.

Developing a Routine

Developing a routine is a many step process and may be done by one or more of the team members, or the group as a whole. You might want to spend some time looking at videos of other teams and their routines for ideas.

Herber says that the most important thing to do when working on a routine is to keep it simple. You might be tempted to add in a lot of fancy tricks, but a simple routine that is well done will show better than a more complicated routine that doesn’t quite hold together. Consider using basic formations and transitions for most of the routine, and then pick just one or two flashier moments as focal points.

K9 Drill and Demo Teams

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The formations are really the main structure of a routine. They are basically the geometric shapes (like a circle, rectangle, triangle, or diamond) that your team members create. The formations can be made up of single or double lines, crossed lines, arrows, or curved lines. When your team is in a formation, you can move together as a unit, keeping the shape, for example walking in a circle. Or you can remain stationary while having the dogs perform a behavior such as circling the handler or while having the handler perform a behavior such as circling the dogs.

The transitions are what you do to get from one formation to another. These are essential to the flow of the routine. Imagine your team is in a circle formation facing the center, and you want to move into a straight line with everyone facing the audience. You could move by “following the leader” around the circle and into a line, or with half of the team moving in one direction and half in the opposite direction, meeting in the middle. How you put this all together is part of the creative challenge and fun.

When planning a routine, be aware of the skill set and abilities of your handlers and dogs. If your group has varied levels of experience, you will need to consider what all of the team members can reasonably accomplish. Herber says, “We had two greyhounds on our first team. They could not sit well.” They decided to have the greyhounds at each end of the line in a standing position while the other dogs sat. The dogs’ limitations became a design decision!

Build in some flexibility to your routines too. You might end up performing a routine in a smaller space than you expected, or you may have a team member not be able to make a performance because of an illness. “Once we got to a location to perform for a Boy Scout troop and found a large support pole in the middle of the space,” says Herber. “We had to quickly alter our routine to accommodate the pole.”

Your group will also need to decide if you want to use music. Music is not essential, but it can give you a rhythm to work with and it can add polish to a performance. When you choose music, know that it will be something that you will listen to a lot while practicing! Choose something that you and your teammates will enjoy, but that will also be a crowd pleaser. Pick something with a good beat and look for the right tempo for your group. Consider copyright issues too. If you are doing small performances and you are not charging money, you will not likely have an issue, but it’s something to keep in mind.

Once you have thought about the types of patterns, transitions, and movements you’d like to include and you’ve chosen your music, you’re ready to start putting your moves to the music. It can help to listen to the music and walk through different moves to make sure they work together (this might be best done without the dogs!). You may want to diagram your routine (think football diagrams) to help you visualize. Once you get an idea of what you want to do, try it out and adjust as needed.

Practice, Practice . . .

For a polished routine, you will need more practice than you might imagine. You (the human partners) will need to learn your part – where you need to be and when; it’s very much like learning a series of dance steps. Then you’ll need to learn to do it in coordination with your teammates. Spacing, timing, and straight lines will make all the difference in how your routine looks to an audience. It is a great idea to practice this without your dogs first; your learning mistakes could cause confusion for your dogs.

While you’re learning your part, practice individual elements with the dogs, such as moving together in a straight line or a circle. Even a simple routine can be much harder for the dogs than it may seem, so laying a good foundation can really help keep it fun for them.

Once you and the dogs have got your parts down, and your team is working well together, take your practice to new locations. Don’t be surprised if your dogs work differently on grass than they do on pavement, and moving from outdoors to indoors can be a whole new experience. All of you may have a harder time when there is another activity going on right next to where you are practicing or performing, too. At a recent performance, the announcer in the ring next to ours was so loud, that we (the people) had a really hard time with our timing and cuing off of the music. In addition, dogs running lure coursing across the field from our ring gave our dogs an extra distraction. You never know what challenges you might run into, so practicing around all kinds of distractions will help.

The Show on the Road

When you and your teammates are comfortable with your routine, look for places to perform. “Our nameless K9 drill team did performances for training classes, nursing homes, school groups, Boy Scouts, and anyone who would watch,” says Herber. Local dog events, shelter fundraisers, and other community activities are also good venues.

For some members, the performance will be the highlight. It can be fun to show off your dog and entertain a crowd. For others, the actual performance might be a little nerve-wracking. But the payoff at the end can be worth it.

“When everything falls into place and someone comes up to you afterward and says, ‘You gave me goose-bumps and brought tears to my eyes,’ it makes it all worthwhile,” says Herber.

Mardi Richmond is a writer, trainer and a member of the Santa Cruz Dog Training Club’s un-named heelwork and drill demo team. Being part of the demo team is by far her dog Chance’s favorite activity!

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ProMeris Discontinued

Pfizer has announced plans to discontinue manufacture and sale of its flea and tick control product, ProMeris. Orders will continue to be filled until September 20, 2011.

ProMeris - Flea and Tick Medication

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ProMeris was introduced in the fall of 2007, and touted as the first topical product to use metaflumizone. Pfizer gained control of ProMeris when it acquired Wyeth/Fort Dodge Animal Health in 2009. Pfizer is also the maker of Revolution, used to control fleas and one species of ticks, along with heartworm, ear mites, and sarcoptic mange.

While no specific reasons were given, it’s likely that Pfizer’s decision was influenced by the March publication of a study in the journal Veterinary Dermatology that was done at North Carolina State University. The study concluded that ProMeris “has the potential of triggering a variant of PF” (pemphigus foliaceus, an autoimmune disorder of the skin that will be discussed in an upcoming article on nose and footpad disorders). Lesions begin at the site of application, sometimes months after the initial application, and may later spread to other areas of the body. Immunosuppressive drugs are sometimes required for treatment. While most dogs achieve complete remission, lesions may recur in a few cases even without the further application of ProMeris. Labrador Retrievers and other large-breed dogs appear to have an increased risk for this adverse reaction. It’s important for vets to be aware of these findings, to avoid misdiagnosis.

Amitraz, one of the active ingredients in ProMeris, is a monoamine oxidase inhibitor (MAOI). Other products that contain amitraz include Preventic collars and Mitaban. Products containing amitraz should never be used together.

Amitraz can be dangerous when combined with antidepressants, such as Prozac (fluoxetine), or with other MAOI inhibitors, such as Anipryl (l-deprenyl, selegiline). DL-Phenylalanine (DLPA), used to treat chronic pain in dogs, should also be avoided when using MAOIs, such as amitraz. Cats are at risk if they come into contact with topical products, and even owners who are taking MAOIs themselves may run into problems using these products on their dogs.

ProMeris had recently been approved for treatment of generalized demodicosis, also called demodectic mange or demodex (treatment is not needed for the localized form). Other treatments for generalized demodex include giving high doses of ivermectin (the active ingredient in Heartgard) daily or every other day for long periods, and weekly or biweekly dips with potentially toxic Mitaban. In comparison, ProMeris is far more convenient, requiring only topical application every two to four weeks, and many veterinarians are sorry to see it go for that reason. Owners of dogs who reacted badly to the drug, however, may be wondering why it’s not being pulled off the market immediately.

– Mary Straus

For more information:

Metaflumizone-Amitraz (Promeris)-Associated Pustular Acantholytic Dermatitis in 22 Dogs: Evidence Suggests Contact Drug-Triggered Pemphigus Foliaceus: ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/21418349

When Buying Veterinary Drugs Online, Look for Accredited Sites

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[Updated January 9, 2019]

Purchasing veterinary medications such as heartworm preventatives online can offer significant cost savings, but how can you be sure that you’re buying the real thing and not counterfeit products from China, which can be impossible to tell apart?

I recently read about a dog who tested positive for heartworms despite being given monthly preventative medications. The reason may be that the heartworm preventative the owner purchased online was not what it claimed to be.

Buying Veterinary Drugs Online

The Veterinary Information Network (VIN) looked into Nuheart, a generic form of ivermectin that claims to be comparable to Heartgard. It is sold over the counter in Australia, where no prescription is required. VIN reported that one online pet pharmacy marketing Nuheart in the U.S. lists a street address in Washington state that belongs to Mail Boxes Plus. That same address is linked to a number of other online pharmacies whose websites are registered to entities that share an address in the South Pacific Cook Islands. None of those companies responded to VIN’s attempts to contact them by phone or email.

This is just one example of a widespread problem with drugs being sold on the Internet that may be counterfeit, adulterated, or expired. Warnings abound regarding the dangers of buying medications online. The U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) states that it “has found companies that sell unapproved pet drugs and counterfeit pet products, make fraudulent claims, dispense prescription drugs without requiring a prescription, and sell expired drugs.”

So how can you be sure that “what you see is what you get”? One solution is to look for the Veterinary-Verified Internet Pharmacy Practice Sites (Vet-VIPPS) seal of approval from the National Association of Boards of Pharmacy (NABP).

When Vet-VIPPS was first announced in 2009, it sounded like a great idea. Unfortunately, no veterinary pharmacies were approved at that time, but the situation has improved. A quick search yielded 11 verified online veterinary pharmacy sites. I was pleased to see four sites I’ve recommended on the list: 1-800-PetMeds, Drs. Foster & Smith, PetCareRx, and National Pet Pharmacy.

Note that these pharmacies will not offer to sell you prescription medications without a prescription. Administering medication without the help of a veterinarian is not a smart way to save money. Mistakes can range from giving the wrong dosage to using the wrong medication entirely, or giving dangerous combinations of drugs. Some inappropriate medications are only ineffective; others could be dangerous or even fatal.

The FDA has the following suggestions for protecting yourself when purchasing pet medications online, using the acronym AWARE:

-Ask your veterinarian if she knows anything about the site you plan to use.

-Watch for red flags, such as not requiring a prescription, not listing an address and phone number, or not having a pharmacist available to answer questions.

-Always check for site accreditation, such as from Vet-VIPPS.

-Report problems and suspicious online pharmacies. They suggest reporting any problems first to the manufacturer, and then to the FDA’s Center for Veterinary Medicine (see www.fda.gov/AnimalVeterinary/SafetyHealth or call 1-888-FDA-VETS).

-Educate yourself about online pharmacies.

Use common sense when purchasing medications online; if a deal seems too good, you’re likely not getting the real thing.

Another consideration when buying medications online is that the manufacturer’s warranty may be invalidated by an online purchase. Manufacturers of heartworm preventatives in particular guarantee products only when purchased from a veterinarian; not even a VIPPS-accredited pharmacy will do.

Fortunately, some online pharmacies offer their own guarantees. For example, 1-800-PetMeds claims that its guarantee is even better than the manufacturer’s: it will cover the cost of treatment if your dog becomes infected while taking heartworm product purchased from its site as long as the drug  has been used for nine consecutive months prior to diagnosis (see 1800petmeds.com/guarantee.jsp). Drs. Foster & Smith also offers its own guarantee for all heartworm preventatives it sells (drsfostersmith.com/general.cfm?gid=569).

Many pets need to take drugs that have been compounded, where the drug’s dosage, form, or flavor are manipulated to make them work for animals. Compounding pharmacies produce drugs in dosages suitable for small dogs, in flavors that pets are willing to eagerly eat, and in forms such as transdermal, where the drug is applied to the skin rather than given orally. Compounding pharmacies can also be a source for drugs that have been discontinued. Because of their specialized nature, compounded drugs don’t go through an FDA drug-approval process, and so are not formally tested for safety or efficacy.

Compounded drugs can be life-savers for some pets, but they can be ineffective if poor quality ingredients are used and deadly when mistakes are made. Twenty-one polo horses died in 2009 after being injected with a vitamin compound that included a toxic amount of selenium due to an error by the compounding pharmacy that made it.

The NABP doesn’t list any compounding pharmacies, although Choice Compounding Pharmacy (choicecompoundingpharmacy.com) was recently granted approval. In addition, there’s a separate organization, the Pharmacy Compounding Accreditation Board (PCAB), that focuses on this area of specialization. The PCAB was created in 2004 in an attempt by the pharmacy industry to police itself and raise the quality of compounded drugs. Go to its website at pcab.info to search for accredited compounding pharmacies by state.

Not every pharmacy without approval from VIPPS or PCAB sells counterfeit or dangerous products. The approval process is costly and takes time; not all pharmacies can afford it. In the absence of reliable information, however, these accreditations offer peace of mind when buying veterinary medications for your dog from someone other than your veterinarian.

– Mary Straus

For more information:

-To find a Vet-VIPPS online pharmacy, see:
nabp.net/programs/accreditation/vet-vipps/

-Pharmacy Compounding Accreditation Board: pcab.info

-“Online Veterinary Pharmacies Exploit Cross-Border Regulatory Gaps”:
news.vin.com/vinnews.aspx?articleId=18361

-FDA Animal & Veterinary:

www.fda.gov/ForConsumers/ConsumerUpdates/ucm048164.htm

www.fda.gov/AnimalVeterinary/SafetyHealth/ReportaProblem/ucm055305.htm

A Study of Breed-Related Causes of Death in Dogs

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A new 20-year retrospective study from the University of Georgia examined causes of death in dogs between 1984 and 2004. Researchers looked at records of 74,566 dogs from the Veterinary Medical Database, which includes data from 27 veterinary teaching hospitals. These results may be biased toward more severe, complicated, or unusual causes than the general dog population, but are fascinating nonetheless.

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The study grouped deaths by organ system and by disease category (“pathophysiological process”), and analyzed results based on age, breed, and average breed size. Eighty-two breeds with at least 100 representatives were included in breed-based analyses; mixed-breed dogs were considered as one group.

Only conditions that led to death were considered; if a dog had multiple conditions, only one was deemed the cause of death.

Disease Categories

The study found that cancer was by far the most common disease category cause of death in adult dogs; cancer was the leading cause of death in all but 11 breeds! Almost a third of all adult dogs were found to have died of cancer. Cancer was designated the cause of death almost three times as often as the next most common category of deaths (trauma).

Interestingly, the frequency of cancer deaths begins to taper after age 10.
Cancer occurred less frequently in small breeds, with the exception of the Boston Terrier and Cairn Terrier (30 and 32 percent respectively of deaths in those breeds were from cancer).

The Miniature Pinscher had the lowest rate of cancer at 3.6 percent. Other breeds with low percentages of death from cancer include Miniature Dachshund (6.0), Chihuahua (7.5), Pekingese (7.9), Pomeranian (7.9), Dachshund (8.9), and Maltese (9.2).

The most common causes of death for puppies (dogs less than one year of age) by disease category are very different than for adult dogs. Puppies were overwhelmingly most likely to die of infection, trauma, or congenital disease. About 60 percent of all puppies died from something in these three disease categories.

Organ Systems

When looking at deaths classified by organ system, the gastrointestinal and musculoskeletal systems were most commonly involved in the deaths of puppies.

In adult dogs, no single organ system was responsible for a dramatic majority of deaths; seven different organ systems had similar results, ranging from about 8 to 12 percent of adult dog deaths. The leaders (if we can call them that) were the nervous system (neurologic), musculoskeletal, and gastrointestinal systems, followed by the urogenital, hematopoietic, cardiovascular, and respiratory systems.

Older dogs are increasingly likely to die from something involving the cardiovascular system, as well as endocrine, neurologic, and urogenital systems. The frequency of gastrointestinal-related deaths remained fairly constant throughout adulthood, while hematopoietic and musculoskeletal deaths declined with age.

Small-breed dogs were more likely to die from neurologic, endocrine, and urogenital causes. The larger the dog, the more likely they were to die of musculoskeletal and gastrointestinal causes.

Some Surprises

Some of the breed differences found were surprising. A higher incidence of cancer in Bernese Mountain Dogs, Golden Retrievers, Scottish Terriers, and Boxers is well-known, but the 47 percent death rate from cancer among Bouvier de Flandres was unexpected.

Cardiovascular disease is well known in toy breeds, such as Chihuahuas and Maltese, because of their high incidence of mitral valve disease, but researchers were surprised to find that the rate was almost as high in Fox Terriers. It’s unknown if that’s because Fox Terriers are more prone to heart disease than previously realized, or if they’re simply more protected from other diseases.

A high proportion of deaths from respiratory disease was expected in Bulldogs due to their brachycephalic airways, but finding that respiratory disease accounted for the highest percentage of deaths in the Afghan Hound and Vizla was unexpected.

Examples of Organ System Problems

The study did not provide details about which diseases are included in each category (my mind boggles at the details left out of published studies), but following are some examples of conditions that are likely to be classifed in each organ system:

Gastrointestinal – Gastric dilatation and volvulus (GDV, or bloat) is likely the most common gastrointestinal cause of death; other causes would include pancreatitis, inflammatory bowel disease (IBD), intestinal obstruction, perianal fistula, exocrine pancreatic insufficiency (EPI), lymphangiectasia and other forms of protein-losing enteropathy, and cancer.

Neurologic – Diseases of the brain and spinal cord, such as intervertebral disc disease (IDD or IVDD) that can cause paralysis; strokes; seizure disorders; degenerative myelopathy; myasthenia gravis; encephalitis; laryngeal paralysis; wobbler syndrome; syringomyelia (common in Cavalier King Charles Spaniels); and tumors of the brain and spinal cord.

This category likely includes cognitive disorders as well, such as canine cognitive disorder (CCD) or cognitive dysfunction syndrome (CDS), similar to Alzheimer’s in people. Diseases that cause paralysis, such as tick paralysis, polyradiculoneuritis (coonhound paralysis), and botulism would likely be included in this category.

Musculoskeletal – Joint problems such as hip dysplasia, elbow dysplasia, and arthritis. Bone cancer would also fall into this category. Trauma is often linked to the musculoskeletal system as well.

Urogenital – Kidney disease, urinary stones, pyometra (infection of the uterus), and prostate disease. Stones are undoubtedly the major contributor to the Dalmatian’s 16 percent of deaths in this category, and probably a big part of the high rates in Lhasa Apsos, Shih Tzu, and Miniature Schnauzers as well.

(For more information about urinary stones, see “Stoned Again?” in the May 2010 issue of Whole Dog Journal; “Cast in Stone” and “Stone-Free Dalmatians,” in the June 2010 issue; and “A Spotty Response,” January 2011).

Respiratory – Brachycephalic airway, collapsed trachea, and pulmonary fibrosis. The Afghan Hound is prone to lung lobe torsion, which may account for their high rate of death in this category. Laryngeal paralysis is not uncommon in Vizslas; perhaps that disease was considered respiratory rather than neurologic by the study.

Hematopoietic – Relating to blood. Causes might include thrombocytopenia (low platelets), autoimmune hemolytic anemia (AIHA), and disseminated intravascular coagulation (DIC). This category could also include blood-related cancers such as leukemia, lymphoma, and hemangiosarcoma.

Endocrine – Cushing’s disease and diabetes mellitus are the most common endocrine disorders in dogs. Addison’s disease would also fall into this category.

Examples of Disease Processes

Examples of conditions that were likely to be classified into the different disease process categories:

Trauma – Injury, such as being hit by a car, or being accidentally dropped or stepped on, especially in the case of toy-breed puppies.

Infectious – Viral disease, such as parvovirus and distemper; bacterial infections, such as leptospirosis and most tick diseases; fungal infections, such as blastomycosis and histoplasmosis; and protozoal disease, such as babesiosis and leishmaniasis.

Congenital – A condition present at birth, which may be genetic or caused by something that happened in the womb or during birth. Examples include liver shunts, common in the Yorkshire Terrier and Maltese as well as other toy breeds; and heart defects, common in the Newfoundland and Bulldog, among others.

Degenerative – Diseases such as degenerative disc disease, hip dysplasia, and other forms of joint disease fall into this category. There are also degenerative diseases of the eyes, heart, and other organs.

Inflammatory – IBD, pancreatitis, masticatory muscle myositis, and granulomatous meningoencepha-lomyelitis (GME) are inflammatory diseases.

Metabolic – Anything that affects the organs, including kidney and liver disease. Endocrine diseases would be considered metabolic, along with diabetes insipidus and urinary stones.

Toxic – Poisoning, such as by ingesting rat poison, toxic mushrooms, or antifreeze.

Vascular – Stroke (cerebral vascular accident) is the most obvious. Other possibilities include acquired liver shunts and fibrocartilaginous embolism (FCE).

Prevention Strategy

You can use this information to help your dog stay healthy.

First and foremost, keep your dog lean! Overweight dogs are more likely to develop musculoskeletal problems, disc disease, diabetes, heart disease, and even some forms of cancer.

Proper vaccination of puppies protects them from most infectious diseases, though frequent revaccination for viral diseases is unnecessary in adult dogs.
Spayed females cannot get pyometra (uterine infection) and neutered males are less likely to develop prostate disease.

Letting dogs off lead only in protected areas helps prevent deaths due to trauma.

Gastropexy (surgery to tack the stomach to the side of the body wall) to prevent torsion and reduce the risk of fatality from bloat can be performed proactively for commonly affected breeds or dogs with close relatives who have bloated, or during bloat surgery.

Even “doggie dementia” can be helped with appropriate supplements and medications (see “Old and Confused,” December 2008). EPA, DHA, antioxidants, and mitochondrial cofactors have been shown to improve the performance of older dogs on various cognitive tasks in as little as two to eight weeks.

Recently it’s been suggested that the high rate of cancer in Golden Retrievers can be partly traced to a single “popular sire” who sired over 1,000 puppies and later died of hemangiosarcoma. Because this dog and his progeny were used so extensively, the genes predisposing Golden Retrievers to hemangiosarcoma are now so widespread that it is difficult to breed around them. Breeders can help ensure genetic variation and avoid such outcomes by not over-breeding to a single dog or line of dogs.

The hope is that, armed with this new knowledge, veterinarians and owners can be proactive in watching for these diseases, taking preventative measures and beginning treatment early. The information from this study can also help direct breed-specific research on genetic causes and preventative measures for specific diseases.
 
Mary Straus does research on canine health and nutrition topics as an avocation. She is the owner of the DogAware.com website.

Bringing the Dog on Family Visits

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If you are visiting family or friends, the key to a great vacation with your dog pal is to ask first! Be direct: Would it be convenient for me to bring my dog? Even if your family and friends love your dog as much as you do (or love you enough to understand that you are a package deal), there may be situations when it is just not suitable to bring your dog.

Dogs at Family Events

For example, if your niece is allergic to your dog, or your uncle just adopted a new cat who is afraid of dogs, leaving your dog at home might be a better choice. If you are visiting friends or family for an event – say a wedding or other large gathering – keep in mind how your dog will fit in with the plans. What will he or she do while you are at the rehearsal dinner? Will he be comfortable and quiet – or panting and barking – in a crate while you are toasting the bride and groom?

If your dog is welcome, and the visit is one that will allow your dog some fun times, too, checking in a little more than usual with your host can go a long way toward keeping good family and friend relationships happy. Consider asking, “What can I do to make it easier for you or your other family members (including your pets)? Do you have any household restrictions or requests (like not letting the dog on the new white carpet!)? Can I bring any extra supplies (like sheets to cover furniture)?”

Once you get to your family’s house, spend a little time helping your dog get settled before you get too involved with catching up with the relatives. Make sure he eliminates outside before you go in, then show him around in a calm, controlled manner, perhaps even keeping him on leash.

If there is a resident dog, take the dogs for a walk together before bringing them into the house together; even if they know each other, this will help them transition and be calmer once inside. Remember throughout your visit to help your dog follow the household rules like staying off the furniture or out of certain rooms. With your help, your dog-pal can learn the rules of this new place, and will be much more likely to be invited back again!

Planning on Taking Your Dog on Your Next Vacation? Make it a Great Experience!

[Updated October 30, 2017]

For some of us, taking a vacation just wouldn’t be nearly as much fun if we couldn’t share it with our dogs. Camping and other outdoor adventures are natural vacation options with our four-legged friends, although dog-friendly vacations can be as plush as a four-star hotel stay! Depending on you and your dog, your perfect dog-friendly vacation might mean a visit with your favorite aunt and uncle, sightseeing in your favorite historical town, long days hiking and swimming, or simply snoozing in a hammock on your favorite beach.

Outdoor Activities and Your Dog

While taking your dog on vacation can be great fun, it can also pose some challenges. Not every dog (or person, for that matter) will enjoy a visit to a crowded tourist destination. Not every relative will appreciate having us show up on their doorstep with our dog in tow. And some dogs just aren’t cut out for rugged camping adventures. Plus, some dogs become over-excited or anxious when traveling, which can lead to things like marking, barking, or destructive behavior. These won’t make for the most relaxing vacation experience!

So how can you make sure that you have a fun-filled, happy vacation that includes your dog, and a dog who loves to vacation with you? It all starts with realistic expectations and being prepared.

When you think about vacationing with your dog, you may already have a destination, such as a visit with your favorite aunt or a trip to a national forest. If you’re still considering your options, a quick Google search will reveal thousands of dog-friendly vacationing opportunities: camping, cabins, resorts, hotels and motels, beaches, dog camps, and even canoeing and boating trips. But which will you and your dog really enjoy?

To avoid a lot of “pre-training” for what you know will probably be a one-time experience, you may want to choose a get-away that brings you the experience you desire, while still taking into account your dog’s personality. Consider some of these dog-related questions when thinking about your vacation:

-Does your dog like adventure and excitement? Or would she be happier with a calm, quiet experience?

-Is your dog a seasoned traveler? Or will this experience be all new?

-Does your dog enjoy people? Other dogs?

-Does your dog have any special needs or physical limitations that might affect her enjoyment of a trip?

How will thinking about these questions help? If your dog is a social butterfly, and you both love the bustle of people and activity, for example, you might choose a dog-friendly resort area or city.

In contrast, if your dog is shy of people or likes to run and swim, you might choose a quiet week in a lake-front cabin instead. Keeping your dog’s personality and experience in mind will help you plan a fun vacation for you both.

Dogs Allowed or Dog-Friendly?

Once you have a specific type of trip in mind, it’s time to do a little research. For most vacation destinations, you can find options that will allow dogs. But there is a vast difference between a place that simply allows pets and one that is truly pet-friendly.

Transporting Your Dog for Vacation

Some tourist destinations, for example, allow dogs in hotels, campsites, and parking areas, but not when visiting the actual attractions. We found that out one year when visiting a state park. Our dogs were allowed in our campsite and the parking lot areas, but not on the trails that led to the river, beach, or redwoods.

In contrast, a friend recently returned from a tour of art galleries in Santa Fe, New Mexico. Their accommodations were welcoming of their young German Shepherd, but Cassie was also invited into every gallery they visited. Plus the city boasts a large off-leash dog park and walking area. Both dog and humans had a wonderful vacation and plan to return in the near future.

When making your vacation plans, call or query ahead and ask to make sure that what they consider “pet-friendly” really does meet your canine’s needs. Check out these 5 Tips for Staying in a Hotel With Dogs from Dogster.com to make sure you know exactly what to expect.

-Are dogs allowed in the hotel, motel, or campground?

-Are there size or breed restrictions?

-Are there restrictions on the number of dogs you can have?

-Is there an extra charge or a cleaning fee for dogs?

-Are dogs required to be on-leash?

-Are there dog-friendly parks in the area? What about off-leash parks or beaches?

-Are dogs allowed on walkways, paths, or trails? In city or downtown areas? On sidewalks? In stores, galleries, wineries, or other locals attractions?

-Do I need proof of vaccinations or a health certificate?

Keep in mind that there are no right or wrong answers here. Some people may really want to visit a place where their dog can romp off-leash, while for others that isn’t as important, or could even be a deterrent. The answers to these questions will help you assess if this is the right place to take your dog.

Preparing for Travel with Dogs

Travel is a huge part of many vacations. My vacations usually involve car and foot travel (i.e., walking and hiking), but I have friends who have ridden bicycles across the country with their dogs, and know others for whom canoeing and kayaking are important parts of their dog-friendly vacations.

The most important thing to consider about traveling with your dog is how accustomed he or she is to the type of travel you will be doing. Is your dog comfortable in the car or canoe? Can you take steps ahead of time to help him become more comfortable?

If traveling by car or recreational vehicle, make sure your dog is relaxed on longer rides, doesn’t get car sick, and knows how to settle down. To make it even more pleasant for your dog, plan to make frequent stops to stretch, play, and potty.

If your vacation involves walking, hiking, or backpacking, make sure your dog is in good enough shape to handle your walking expectations. In addition, make sure his or her pads are toughened up for new terrain or have him habituated to wearing booties to protect his feet.

Bike and boat travel with dogs usually involves dogs riding in a specific spot,  carrier, or cart. Similar to traveling by car, your dog will need to be comfortable in the particular vehicle and know how to settle in for the ride.

Train Your Dog While On Vacation

Are you considering public transportation as part of your travel plans? Depending on where you live and the type of travel you are doing, this may or may not be an option. For example, in the U.S., Amtrak trains and Greyhound buses do not allow dogs, with the exception of service dogs. But some trains in other countries do. Do your homework ahead of time to find out the rules.

Prepare for “Dog Time”

Some vacations involve continual travel or moving from place to place. Others are about getting to and enjoying a single destination. But either way, your vacation will mean a lot of together time with your dog. This is where a whole set of “do’s and don’ts” come into play.

Do plan to have your dog with you all of the time. Your dog will need to be with you or one of your traveling companions at all times.

Don’t leave your dog alone in a hotel room or campsite (most places don’t allow it, and even if they do, many dogs will be completely freaked out at being left in a strange, new place).

Don’t leave your dog alone in the car while you play tourist. Even in the shade, even with the windows down, leaving dogs in cars can be very dangerous. On a 75 degree day, for example, the temperature inside of a car can reach 120 degrees in 30 minutes or less. This can put your dog at risk for heat stroke and death. Cold is equally problematic. In cold or snow, your car can become a refrigerator in a matter of minutes. Plus, dogs can be stolen from cars when left unattended.

If you are staying in one place (say a rental cabin or a family member’s home) for more than a few days, Do condition your dog to staying in this new place for short periods of time. It’s easiest to do this with dogs who are crate trained or already accustomed to visiting places other than your home.

Some tourist destinations also have day kennels where you may be able to leave your dog while you visit the sights, but Do check out any kennel carefully to make sure it is a safe and appropriate place for your dog.

Not being able to leave your dog does limit how you will travel and what you can do. But it also opens up opportunities to do more fun things with your dog. For example, you can find great dog-friendly restaurants with outdoor seating, or get take-out and have a picnic at a nearby park or riverbank. While you may not be able to hike that national park trail, you probably can hike an equally beautiful trail in a neighboring national forest. An outdoor art exhibit or private gallery may allow your dog even if the county museum does not.

Train Your Dog Along the Way

Like with everything in the life of a dog, a little training can really pay off in the long run. Some behaviors are especially helpful when it comes to traveling.

Plan on Training During Vacationing

Anke Van Wyk | Dreamstime.com

Eliminating on cue (“Go potty” or “Get busy”) may be one of the more important things you can teach a dog with whom you would like to vacation! A dog’s house-training may or may not travel with him to a new place. Dogs tend to learn where to go at home and the places they visit regularly, but they won’t know when you first step out of your car in a new city or town where the appropriate toilet spot is located. When you teach them to eliminate on cue, you have a huge step up to helping them learn to go when and where you want them to go (like in a posted potty area rather than the hotel flower garden, or worse yet, the lobby planter!).

Here’s how to get this behavior on cue:

1. Pick a word or cue such as “go potty” or “get busy.”

2. For about a week, every time you see your dog about to pee or poop, say “get busy” or your cue. This will begin creating an association between the words and the action. When the dog finishes, praise or give a reward.

3. Once your dog seems to be making the connection between the cue and eliminating, try asking your dog to “get busy” when you know he needs to, but isn’t yet about to do it. Does your dog look for a place and make it happen? If so, you’ve successfully created an association, and you can use it in new places.

4. Keep rewarding your dog until he has it down! Now, when you get to a new place, you can take your dog to a designated potty area and say, “get busy.”

Along with teaching an elimination cue, you can help your dog understand where to go by doing the following:

Give him the chance to relieve himself as soon as you arrive at a new place.

Take your dog out regularly, much as you would a puppy. Praise or reward him for going in an appropriate spot.

Don’t expect your dog to know how to “ask” in this new place. And certainly don’t expect him to find the potty spot on his own until you have been in a place several days and it is well established.

Is your dog a marker? If so, keep a very close eye on him in the first hours or days in a new place. Interrupt marking behavior immediately and take him to a designated potty area.

Other behaviors that can help your dog have a great vacation include:

Coming when called. This is a critical safety skill. If your dog gets loose in a new environment, he can easily become disoriented. Knowing to come back when called is even important for dogs who will be kept on-leash. You just never know when a dog will become upset or freaked out and take off unexpectedly.

Settle on their bed or in their crate. If your dog knows how to settle, then you can use this behavior when you are dining in an outdoor restaurant or when you are ready to relax back at the hotel room. If you are visiting family, your dog may be more likely to be invited back if he can settle quietly during dinner or at the end of a busy social day.

Say hello. During travel, you will likely run into unfamiliar people. Teaching your dog the important skill of greeting strangers can really help your dog’s comfort level in a new place.

Loose-leash walking. Leashes are almost always required at some point during a vacation, and you’ll both have a lot more fun if your dog isn’t dragging you around.

When you are embarking on a new experience with your dog, training ahead will help. But keep in mind that for a novice traveling dog, you will likely need to do some training along the way, too.

Camping With Dogs

For example, one of my dogs started off his first camping adventure afraid of night noises. The first few nights of our camping trip were not much fun at all. I was awake, working with him to understand that the night rustles and owl hoots really weren’t anything to be concerned about. But after that initial training, he became a great camping dog – knowing what to ignore, and when to alert. Giving up a little sleep in order to train paid off big time for years of camping adventures.

Doggy Packing List?

When getting ready to pack for yourself, your decisions will be influenced by where you will be staying, the weather, and what activities you will be enjoying. Consider the same things when deciding what to bring for your dog. The basics include food, water, and bowls, treats, poop bags, and a leash, but your list may expand depending on the type of vacation you are taking.

If your dog will have the opportunity to get wet, muddy, or covered with burrs and ticks, bring dog towels (and dog shampoo?), a brush, flea comb, and tick remover. For a hotel stay, bringing a comfy crate and an extra sheet or blanket to protect your bed would be more appropriate.

One of the most important things to consider for your dog is identification. Make sure your dog wears a well-fitting collar with current ID tags or nameplate. Even if your dog does not wear a collar or tags at home, it is critical should you become separated during your travels. Make sure the ID has a phone number that can be reached on your travels – ideally, your cell number.

A microchip is also a very good idea for all dogs, but especially when you take your dog on a trip. Most shelters and veterinary emergency hospitals have scanners and will check for a microchip should your dog become lost. This is one time when planning for the worst is essential!

In some cases, for example if you are crossing state or national borders, you may need to have health certificates or proof of vaccines with you. Some parks or camp areas may also require proof of rabies or other vaccinations. Check ahead to make sure you have the paperwork you need.

For your dog’s comfort, always bring along some things that are familiar. A favorite bed or blanket or a cozy sleeping kennel are ideal. Having a familiar bed or blanket can really help your dog understand that where you are, he belongs! And if your dog has been taught to settle on his bed, he will also know where to take a break from the excitement of your travels. Favorite toys can also help.

Think about confinement tools, too. A crate for sleeping or traveling in the car is great, but you might want to consider other types of confinement as well. For example, if you are car camping, your dog may be required to be on-leash at all times in the campground. But if you’re cooking over an open fire, you will not want to hold on to your dog’s leash. A cable tie-out or an exercise pen may be good options for hanging out around the camp. Of course you will need to be with your dog and supervise if he is on a tie-out or in a pen, but your hands will be free for other activities.

Finally, think about what you’ll need, and then come up with a similar list for your dog. Will you need sun protection? Then you might need to think about sun protection for your dog as well. Will it be cold enough for a jacket? Perhaps your short-haired dog will also relax more comfortably with a sweater or jacket. What about insect repellent? Will you encounter fleas, ticks, or mosquitoes during your travels? Are you taking along your boots for hiking or a life jacket for boating? Then your dog may benefit from  foot protection and a flotation vest. What about a first-aid kit? Obviously, for some vacations, you won’t need all of these items, but be sure to consider all of the “what ifs.”

Enjoy Your Dog!

My vacation this year will be to our favorite place in Northern California, called The Other Place. The house we will rent sits on a ridge top above the town of Boonville. It has the perfect balance of creature comforts for me and my partner, and wild dog experiences for our young Queensland heeler-mix. Plus, it’s private and calm – a good match for my dog’s needs and personality. We’ll hike and play, she’ll swim in the pond, and we’ll all relax in a big hammock overlooking a beautiful valley, brimming with bird song. We will also take a trip to the coast, spend a day walking wwthe dog-friendly trails of the Mendocino Botanical Gardens, dine at outdoor restaurants, and probably picnic by the river, too.

This type of vacation is well suited for our dog, with the right balance of activity, calm and quiet, and just a touch of social interaction. Some day, I may have a very outgoing dog, and then I will plan a vacation to one of the great dog-friendly resorts, or perhaps spend a week at a dog camp playing agility with other dog-fanatics and their dogs. But for now, this trip will suit all of us perfectly and give us, well, a real vacation!

How Dog Breed Discrimination Can Affect Your Homeowners Insurance Coverage

When Erin Sullivan’s employer offered her a promotion and relocation to Orlando from Baltimore, she jumped at the chance to leave the cold behind in favor of the Sunshine State. Little did she know that her excitement would soon be quashed as she attempted to find a rental home – and subsequently, renter’s insurance – that would accept her, her Pit Bull, and two Pit Bull-mixes.

Dog Breed Discrimination and Insurance Companies

Photo by Rob Bartlett

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Stories of breed discrimination by insurance companies (and rental property owners) abound as insurance companies increasingly refuse to write homeowner’s and renter’s policies for people who own breeds of dogs that the insurance industry considers to be “dangerous.” Many opponents argue that the industry’s decisions are based on faulty assumptions and improper use of dog bite statistics. Authors of scientific studies on dog bites have argued against the use of their data to support breed-based decision-making by insurers and legislatures. Major veterinary and breed registry organizations have also strongly opposed breed discrimination in insurance. None of these expert opinions seem to dissuade the insurance industry, however.

A Triple Whammy

When Sullivan embarked upon a search to find rental housing in Orlando that would accept her and her dogs, she prepared resumes for her dogs, wrote letters explaining that she would be more than happy to provide liability insurance through a renters’ policy that would cover the dogs, that she’d pay extra deposits, provide stellar references, and Canine Good Citizen (CGC) and Temperament Testing certificates.

That strategy seemed to work – at first. She soon discovered that although she might find a suitable home to rent, the insurance policy of the home’s owner would not allow for Sullivan’s dogs to be on the premises. It took Sullivan “a couple of months of searching and worrying and being rejected by, literally, dozens of agents and private homeowners” before she found a great landlord who had a State Farm policy and allowed her to have her dogs live with her in the house.

It turns out that Sullivan’s dogs were not the only factor that made it difficult for her to find an insurance provider. Sullivan learned that national insurance carriers had been leaving the state of Florida in droves, declining to renew – never mind issuing – policies due to high risk associated with Florida’s hurricanes. Her choices were already limited by her choice of moving to Florida, and her choice in dogs made the task even more difficult!

Insurance Landscape

Homeowner’s and renter’s insurance are categorized by what the industry calls “cause of loss.” These are property damage (fire, lightning, and debris removal; wind and hail; water damage and freezing; theft; all other) and liability (bodily injury and property damage; medical payments and other; credit card and other). Dog bites are in the latter category.

States are responsible for crafting laws that regulate insurers within their borders, and in no state is it mandatory that coverage be offered to every consumer who applies.

The problem is this: Many insurers base their decisions to cover renting or home-owning dog owners solely on the breed of the dogs, not the individual characteristics of the applicants’ dogs. The insurance industry has prejudged entire breeds of dogs as being too risky. And few states have laws that compel insurers to write policies for all dog owners.

When it comes to insuring homeowners or renters with dogs, a few insurance companies consider each applicant on a case-by-case basis that includes the dog’s history — querying the home owner as to whether the dog has a bite history (this is the case with my insurer, USAA). Others, however, maintain that their decisions are based upon their experience with claims for a certain breed, taken from their own database of the number of claims for dog bites and dog attacks per breed. Some base their decisions on lists of dogs considered to be dangerous; others cite published reports on the frequency of dog bites for certain breeds.

The Insurance Information Institute reports that, “Insurers generally oppose legislation that would require changes to their dog breed practices. They contend that government public health studies and the industry’s claims histories show that some breeds are more dangerous than others and are higher loss risks.”

When I inquired with the states of Florida and Georgia, I received similar replies: It’s legal for insurance companies to decline to offer coverage to individuals who own certain breeds of dogs or other animals that are considered aggressive. This seems to be the case across most of the U.S., although a few more forward-thinking states have passed laws that prohibit insurers from discriminating against dog owners based only on breed (Michigan and Pennsylvania, for example).

Valid Rationale?

It’s true that dogs bite. According to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, more than 4.7 million people are bitten by dogs annually, resulting in an estimated 800,000 injuries that require medical attention. Information from a December 2010 report from the Agency for Healthcare Research and Quality shows that in 2008, 9,500 Americans received “serious” dog bites. Treating patients admitted to a hospital for dog bites cost hospitals an average of $18,200 per patient and $54 million overall. The report also claims that over a 15-year period, hospitalizations for dog bites increased 100 percent.

The Insurance Information Institute reports that dog bites account for more than one-third of all homeowners’ insurance liability claims, and that the total cost of the dog bite-related claims was about $412 million in 2009. It reports that the average cost of dog bite claims was $24,840 in 2009, while the number of claims increased 4.8 percent to 16,586.

Four hundred and twelve million sounds like a lot of money, but let’s put it into perspective. Property damage accounts for about 96 percent of all claims, with liability claims accounting for the remaining 4 percent of claims – and dog bites accounting for a bit more than a third of liability claims.

Even if we assume the insurance industry has a grasp on dog bite numbers, the statistics they lack are reliable reports of bites by breed, which is a story in itself due to concerns about breed misidentification.

Two published reports seem to serve as the basis for breed discrimination related to dog bites by insurance companies. The first was a 1997 report, “Dog-Bite-Related Fatalities – United States, 1995-1996,” published in the Centers for Disease Control’s (CDC) weekly “Morbidity and Mortality Report.” Authors of this report analyzed data from the Humane Society of the United States (HSUS) and media accounts of dog-bite-related fatalities in the NEXIS database.

The second report is “Breeds of Dogs Involved in Fatal Human Attacks in the United States between 1970 and 1998,” published in the Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association (JAVMA) in 2000. Its authors also analyzed data from HSUS and media accounts.

Here’s the interesting thing: Both the CDC and American Veterinary Medical Association (AVMA) concluded that their own analyses cannot be used to infer breed-specific risk for dog bite fatalities, nor to identify specific breeds most likely to bite or kill. The CDC went so far as to stop tracking dog attacks by breed in 1998. Both organizations have further qualified that their reports should not be used for policy-making decisions. Why? Both cited several reasons, including the fact attacks by some breeds seem to be regarded as more news-worthy than other breeds, resulting in a disproportionate number of articles about bites by certain breeds. Another factor cited was that identification of breeds is often subjective. Dog-bite-related fatalities, said the JAVMA study, “may be differentially ascribed to breeds with a reputation for aggression.”

Karen Delise, author of the Pit Bull Placebo and founder/researcher for the National Canine Research Council, notes that the CDC recommends “A Community Approach to Dog Bite Prevention” by the AVMA Task Force on Canine Aggression and Human-Canine Interactions. The CDC says, “Dog bites are a largely preventable public health problem, and adults and children can learn to reduce their chances of being bitten.” Their stance is that public education, not breed bans, will prevent dog bites.

Unfortunately, the CDC and JAVMA studies are still cited by some insurance companies as the basis for their policies to deny coverage to people with certain breeds of dogs.

Between a Rock and a Hard Place

If you are a homeowner with a mortgage, your mortgage company requires that you have insurance. Many landlords require their tenants to have a renter’s insurance policy. You are not required to have liability insurance if you own your home outright or your landlord does not require it, but going without insurance leaves you open to significant liability. The website Dog Bite Law advises that “Every dog owner needs to have homeowner’s insurance or renter’s insurance that (a) provides coverage for, and does not exclude, injuries inflicted by dogs or animals in general, and (b) has a limit of at least $100,000 for personal liability.”

Dog Breed Discrimination and Insurance Companies

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Attorney Larry Cunningham, Assistant Dean for Students and assistant professor of legal writing at St. John’s University School of Law in New York, had firsthand experience with breed discrimination in Lubbock, Texas, when he went to buy a home and sought to purchase homeowner’s insurance to cover him and his two dogs, a Rottweiler and a Chow-mix. As a result of his eye-opening experience, he penned an informative piece, “The Case Against Dog Breed Discrimination by Homeowners’ Insurance Companies.”

Cunningham is clear on one point: You must not lie about your status as a dog owner when applying for insurance. “Consumers should definitely shop around, since there are a few companies who will consider an individual family’s circumstances and whether the family dog has a bite history. Above all else, however, families should not lie. Lying on an insurance application is a felony in most states (‘insurance fraud’) and can invalidate the policy later on if there is a claim.”

The American Kennel Club (AKC) is against breed discrimination by insurance companies, stating, “If a dog is a well-behaved member of the household and the community, there is no reason to deny or cancel coverage. In fact, insurance companies should consider a dog an asset, a natural alarm system whose bark may deter intruders and prevent potential theft.” Below are some of the tips they offer to dog owners on how to find homeowner’s insurance (from the online AKC Homeowners’ Insurance Resource Center):

Ask your dog-owner friends who they use for insurance; if your dog is a purebred, check with your dog’s national breed club for ideas. I’d add to this: also check with local breed and training clubs, and other local dog resources such as dog daycare centers and trainers.

Contact your state’s insurance commissioner to get a list of the insurance companies doing business there. Tell the commissioner of your frustration over companies’ discriminatory practices. The AKC recommends that, if you have had a policy cancellation or refusal to renew, ask the commissioner to review your policy. Remember, laws might exist, such as in Pennsylvania or Michigan, that prohibit insurance companies from discriminating by breed.

Agents within the same company may have different policies. Talk to more than one representative for a particular carrier before giving up.

Contact your state senator or representative and let him or her know the difficulties you are having. Ask that she introduce legislation prohibiting insurance companies from discriminating against homeowners based on the breed of dog they own. (Note: The AKC’s Government Relations Department has materials to help with this.)

Provide proof that your dog has been trained, and/or has his CGC.

Consider buying a separate liability policy or separate rider to your existing policy that is specifically directed toward your dogs.

Erin Sullivan’s solution was to get an umbrella policy tied to her car insurance policy that offers liability insurance and covers the dogs. Unfortunately, she could not find any rental policies or homeowner’s policies that would insure her. She says, “At this moment, I do not have any renter’s insurance; no one down here in Florida will write a policy for my dogs, except Citizens (Property Insurance Corporation). And it would only exclude the dogs; it would not cover them.”

In Cunningham’s case, after weeks of calling nearly every insurance agent in Lubbock, he obtained insurance through the Texas Farm Bureau, an organization that he says “advocates for farmers and farming issues.”

I queried other individuals in similar situations; there are those who have foregone insurance; others have lied about their dogs; one built her own home after being asked to leave her rental apartment and also finding restrictions from some neighborhood associations; and one is paying an additional $1,200 a year for a policy that has no breed restrictions.

The Stark Reality

Doggone Safe is a nonprofit organization dedicated to dog bite prevention through education and dog bite victim support. Co-founder and President Joan Orr says, “We think that the history and characteristics of the individual dog and the owner characteristics should be considered rather than the breed. This is difficult for insurance companies since they base everything on statistics and the stats indicate that certain breeds bite more.

“This does not take many other important variables into account, but I am not sure how else they could do it. Teenage and young adult males pay huge car insurance premiums (three or more times what females pay) because statistically they get into more accidents. This is not fair on the boys that are safe and cautious, but it is the way insurance risk assessment works.”

I asked Dean Cunningham what would be needed to convince state insurance regulators to step in and push through changes that would help dog owners.  “State legislatures step in when there is political support behind particular regulation,” he says. “For example, in the mid-1990s, it came to light that new mothers were being discharged from hospitals within 12-24 hours of giving birth because the insurance companies were not paying for longer stays. State legislatures stepped in and required insurance companies to pay for at least 48 hours. There was a political uproar that supported the legislative change. I’m not sure the same political pressure exists with the breed discrimination issue.”

Lisa Rodier shares her home with her husband and senior Bouvier, Jolie.

Sample Dog Park Rules

Park rules should be posted prominently near park entrances – if they’re not, ask about them prior to bringing your dog to the park, and make sure you are able and willing to comply. Here are some of the rules that you are likely to find:

Dog Park Rules

-If a separate area is provided for small dogs, please honor the size restrictions.

-Dogs over the age of 6 months must be spayed/neutered. (Alternatively, no females in season allowed.)

-All dogs must be currently licensed.

-No choke, prong, or shock collars. Remove harnesses.

-No unsupervised dogs; dogs may not be left unattended.

-Owners must clean up after dogs.

-Aggressive dogs are not allowed. Please do not bring dogs with a past history of aggression toward dogs or humans. Dogs who demonstrate aggressive behaviors toward dogs or humans in the park should immediately be removed from the park and not return.

-Children under the age 8 (or some other designated age) should not enter the off-leash area of the park. Alternatively, children under the age of (designated age) must be directly supervised at all times in the park. No running, loud, or rough play allowed.

-No more than three dogs per person (or other designated number).

-No smoking or eating within the fenced dog park area.

-Always close gates behind you.

-Be polite and considerate of other park users.

-Keep dogs on-leash until you enter the off-leash area (or the “airlock” immediately preceding the off-leash area).

How to Help Your Noise-Phobic Dog Get Through Loud Events

[Updated June 26, 2017]

July 4th is a dreaded time for thousands of noise-sensitive dogs and their owners. In many parts of the country sound-sensitive dogs and the humans who love them are already struggling with the effects of thunderstorms – thank goodness fireworks really only occur once a year. Our Corgi, Lucy, is a thunder-phobe, and we know all too well the impact thunder and firecrackers have on her (and our) quality of life. Fortunately, the following can make life better for you and your dog during noisy events.

1. Stay Home

Ever since the mid-1980s, when we shared our lives with our first sound-sensitive dog, Independence Day and New Year’s Eve have been occasions to stay home rather than go out and celebrate. You can relieve some of your dog’s stress with just your comforting presence. It’s harder to stay home consistently during thunderstorms unless you have the good fortune to work from home, but there may be times when you can make the choice to pass on an optional outing if a storm is coming.

2. Hold Your Dog

Despite what you’ve heard to the contrary, it’s perfectly okay to comfort your sound-stressed dog, as long as you do it calmly. If she wants to be in your lap, or next to you on the couch or the floor, let her. If it helps her to calmly put your arms around her and hold her, or do calming massage or T-Touch, do it. This is not operant reinforcement of her fear; it just helps her feel better – and may even work to classically counter-condition her very negative association with thunder or fireworks.

It doesn’t help, though, if you are stressed, chanting, “It’s okay, it’s okay,” over and over, while rubbing your dog as if you were drying her off with a towel. In other words, you need to stay calm, too!

3. Manage/Minimize Intensity of the Stimulus

Reduce the intensity of the fear-causing stimuli by closing curtains to shut out the visual effects (flashes of lighting, lights, or sparks of fireworks) that your dog associates as reliable predictors of the bad noise.

White noise machines can help mask the sounds; so can the especially composed “Through a Dog’s Ear” CDs, especially if you have played the CDs during relaxing times so your dog already has a calm, positive association with the music. (If you play them only during storms he may form a negative association with the otherwise calming music.)

You can also use Mutt Muffs to muffle the sound. Use positive classical conditioning to convince him that the earmuffs make wonderful treats happen. (Of course, if he is disturbed by the Muffs even after multiple classical conditioning sessions, don’t force them on him.)

4. Counter-Condition

Use recordings of thunderstorm sounds and/or storm sounds. Start with the volume at barely audible levels – or even inaudible levels, if your dog is still worried. Pair this low-level sound with wonderful things, such as high-value treats, or games of fetch or tug, until your dog gets happily and consistently excited in anticipation of his favorite things when you turn the sound on. Then turn the volume up slightly and continue.

This is a long-term project; don’t expect to turn up the volume every session. This won’t fix everything; your storm-phobic dog may also react to wind, rain, and even the change in barometric pressure, but it’s a start. When a real storm approaches (or fireworks begin) try the counter-conditioning strategy at the earliest hint of stimulus, and keep your dog playing the game as long as possible. When he’s too stressed to take treats or play, revert to other strategies. It helps if you’re lucky with a lot of near-miss storms that give you conditioning opportunities without reaching full intensity.

5. Drugs

Short-acting anti-anxiety medications can greatly enhance your sound-sensitive dog’s quality of life. I give Lucy Alprazolam (Xanax) when storms threaten. It not only helps ease her immediate fears but also seems to have reduced her strong reactions to storms in general.

I can’t tell you which drug is right for your dog, but veterinary behaviorist Dr. Karen Overall strongly cautions against using tranquilizers such as acepromazine for sound-anxiety behaviors. “Ace” is a dissociative anesthetic; it scrambles perceptions, which may make the dog more fearful. If your vet isn’t well educated in the use of behavior modification drugs, urge her to do a phone consult with a veterinary behaviorist prior to selecting medications and dosages for your dog.

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How to Train Hearing Impaired Dogs Using Hand Signals and Simple Gestures

I was recently contacted by a friend about a darling Border Collie puppy whose photo she found on Petfinder.com – and who was deaf. This friend is crazy about Border Collies, and also knows that I have a deaf Chinese Crested. Thus, she thought of me when she saw this puppy. The person who was fostering the pup was unable to keep her much longer, and did not want to send her to the local shelter as that would almost certainly result in the puppy’s euthanasia. Why? Because that shelter considers all deaf dogs as “unadoptable.”

Training Hearing Impaired Dogs
Yes, deaf dogs can even learn how to perform a fast recall; contrary to popular belief, in order to respond quickly, dogs don’t need to hear a loud call, or any audible signal at all! Trainer Cindy Rich uses the “pledge of allegiance” gesture (hand over her heart) to cue the recall.

This concept is common – and dead wrong. Many people assume that deafness somehow makes a dog untrainable, or that training a deaf dog will require an enormous amount of extra training to prevent tragedy. In reality, training any dog requires time, regardless of whether she can hear or not. Training a deaf dog requires some common sense, but not a ton of extra training. It is unfortunate that deafness often results in a death sentence for perfectly healthy dogs.

Congenital Deafness

Congenital deafness is deafness that a dog is born with. Dr. George M. Strain, Professor of Neuroscience at Louisiana State University School of Veterinary Medicine, has found that congenital deafness in companion animals is most commonly inherited from a deaf parent, but may also skip generations.

Dr. Strain lists 92 dog breeds with reported congenital deafness, though he notes that individuals of any breed can have congenital deafness from a variety of causes. Breeds with white pigmentation are most commonly affected, with Dalmatians, Bull Terriers, Australian Shepherds, and Australian Cattle Dogs frequently reported to be partially or completely deaf. Out of more than 5,600 Dalmatians tested for deafness, 441 (7.8%) were reported to be bilaterally deaf, and out of 442 Australian Cattle Dogs tested, 11 (2.5%) were bilaterally deaf. Dr. Strain is currently gathering data on the prevalence of congenital deafness in other breeds.

Are deaf dogs different? It’s often suggested that deaf dogs are prone to biting when startled. The truth is that any dog can nip or bite when startled – it’s just easier to startle a deaf dog than a dog who hears your approach. It’s important to desensitize your dog, hearing or deaf, to touch (for more on this, see “Stay in Touch,” WDJ Jan 2011).

Training Hearing Impaired Dogs
Cindy uses a hand signal to cue a spin.

It’s also a good idea to choose a specific place (shoulder, hip, etc.) to lightly touch your deaf dog as a cue for “pay attention to me” – the equivalent of calling a hearing dog’s name. It’s best to start while your dog is awake and looking at you. Lightly touch this area and feed your dog a treat. Repeat many times. Work up to the point where you can give your dog a light touch while she is looking away and she turns her head toward you with a happy look.

I use a light touch to get my dog’s attention when other methods aren’t convenient. Other methods to get your deaf dog’s attention might include a good stomp on the floor, a flashlight, or a remote-controlled vibration collar. Before relying on these methods to get your dog’s attention, first teach your dog the meaning of them by pairing them with good things – treats, toys, and/or attention.

Another myth about deaf dogs is that you cannot call your dog back if she runs away from you into a dangerous situation. It goes without saying that you should not let a deaf dog run free in any place that you would not let a hearing dog run free. However, there may be an occasion when your dog inadvertently gets away from you. Teaching your deaf dog to “check in” with you frequently, and thus being able to see your non-verbal cue, will aid in preventing disaster.

You can also use a remote-controlled vibration collar to get your dog’s attention over some distance. These devices vary in their maximum range (from as little as 100 feet to more than a mile), but many have an additional shock element, which I do not recommend. Just as a hearing dog must be trained to respond to a recall cue, a deaf dog also must be trained to respond appropriately to a collar vibration. But remember, any dog can have selective “hearing” when recalled unless the behavior is practiced and proofed.

Training Hearing Impaired Dogs
Juneau has been taught to accept touch.

Not Any More Difficult Than Training Any Dog

Deaf dogs are not any harder to train than hearing dogs. It just takes a little practical consideration to train without sound. As a clicker trainer, I use a conditioned reinforcer to mark correct behavior. Since a completely deaf dog cannot hear a clicker, I have found that a keychain flashlight works well. I choose a small flashlight that turns on when the button is pressed and turns off when the button is released – just like a clicker.

As a backup marker, much like using the word “yes” when I do not have a clicker on me, I use a “thumbs up” gesture. It took practice for me to remember to put the thumbs up away quickly, instead of holding it up for an extended period of time and marking more than just the behavior I want. Another practical consideration is that when you mark a behavior with a thumbs up, the dog must be looking at your hand to perceive it. Thus, you must be in your dog’s line of sight while she does the behavior. I prefer the keychain flashlight, because the light can be perceived in the dog’s peripheral vision, thus allowing your dog to focus on what she is doing instead of watching for the thumbs up.

When I explain clicker training in my orientation seminar for basic obedience courses, I use my deaf dog as my demo dog. In my experience, deaf dogs take to “clicker training” just as well as hearing dogs. An added benefit to working with a deaf dog is that they are not distracted by background noises during training. Using my deaf dog in demonstrations highlights the fact that there is nothing magical about a clicker – it is just a convenient tool.

Some people ask if a keychain flashlight would be a good event marker for their hearing dogs. In my opinion, no; light is not quite as versatile as a clicker. It’s difficult to see in bright light, whereas the clicker is a distinct sound that can be perceived in most situations, even in a noisy room, and from a distance.

Some trainers use a “no reward marker” (NRM) during a training session when a dog is not on the right track. It would be easy to use a specific hand signal (maybe a thumbs down?) to act as a NRM.

Training Hearing Impaired Dogs
Juneau’s heelwork is show-ring pretty.

What to Use as Cues?

Without hearing, deaf dogs must rely on their other senses. They are quite attuned to body language, human and dog alike. It makes sense that the majority of cues that they are taught would be visual, including hand signals, body posture, foot position, and eye contact.

Some owners of deaf dogs use American Sign Language (ASL) hand signals as cues. This lends consistency in hand signals for deaf dogs, and is a resource for possible hand signals for us unimaginative folk. Unfortunately, few people are fluent in ASL. Also, it’s inconvenient to use two hands for a cue, as one hand is needed to mark the correct behavior, deliver a treat, and possibly hold onto a leash during training.

I sometimes use letters of the ASL alphabet for behaviors ( “n” for nose touch,  “l” for lick) as they only require one hand and are distinct, but I made up most of the hand signals I use with my deaf dog. Her signal for “heel” is a double tap on my left leg. “Leave it” is a flat hand shaken side to side in front of her face. “Spin left” is a flick of the right hand to the right (toward her left side).

Just as you wouldn’t shout when you teach a new verbal cue to a hearing dog, hand signals need not be exaggerated, just perceivable by the dog.

To Talk or Not to Talk?

I do feel that clicker training a deaf dog has made me a better trainer for hearing dogs. It highlights the fact that verbal coaching while training is unnecessary, and can actually get in the way when trying to give consistent cues.

On the other hand, when talking to our dogs our body language naturally and unconsciously changes. Talking to your dog can actually aid in keeping her attention, and in conveying praise and excitement. By talking to your dog you actively engage her. Your entire body conveys that your attention is on her, and this is something which even a deaf dog will be able to pick up.

The lesson is to talk less when training new behaviors, but to talk when you want to keep your dog’s attention and as praise for a job well done.

For example, you want to keep your dog’s attention while heeling. Try silently heeling with your dog, then try happily talking to your dog while heeling. Your body language changes – when you talk to the dog, you will be more animated – and your dog will notice. If talking to your deaf dog produces better results, talk away!

What Does a Deaf Dog Need to Know?

Here are five things that I believe are the most important for deaf dogs to learn:

1. Socialization – Your dog should be comfortable with novelty; new places, people, animals, etc.

2. Touch – Your dog should be comfortable being handled all over.

3. Eye contact/attention – Remember, your deaf dog must be looking at you to perceive your cues.

4. Checking in – Your dog should regularly look to you in case you might give a cue.

5. Emergency recall – In an emergency, you must be able to cue your dog to come back quickly.

Note that these things are important for all dogs – not just deaf dogs. I tend to focus more on touch desensitization and checking in with deaf dogs than with hearing dogs, but otherwise work on the same concepts in the same amounts. If you do not have dog training experience, I would recommend finding a positive reinforcement trainer who is open to working with a deaf dog.

Deaf dogs are not more difficult to train than hearing dogs if you use common sense while training. They are very responsive to hand signals and body language and don’t often startle at unexpected noises. The things that are important for hearing dogs to learn are just as important to deaf dogs. If you find yourself with an opportunity to work with a deaf dog, consider it a learning experience!

Author and trainer Cindy Rich, KPA CTP, of The Canine Connection in Chico, California, has modelled for WDJ photos for a while, but this is her first written contribution to the magazine.