I was recently in the San Francisco Bay area for a few days, attending a couple of dog-related events. I stayed at some friends’ house – the same friends who adopted Mickey, a dog who had lingered in my local shelter for months without finding a home.
I wrote about Mickey, and how difficult it was to find him a home, in a blog back in July (https://www.whole-dog-journal.com/blog/mickey-home-at-last/ ). Since then, Miceky’s news has all been good. His new family loves him, especially the dad, Dan, who has noticed that short-coated Mickey is often chilly; Dan has taken to wrapping the appreciative dog in a blanket and holding him in his arms like a sleeping baby as they watch TV in the evenings. Even Carly, the family’s senior dog, seems to appreciate having the bouncy adolescent dog around; she perks up when he’s playing, even if her involvement in the game is just laying there kind of like a “base” for his games of tag.
Every time I came back to the house, Mickey gave me a happy welcome, and frequently sought me out in the house, sitting in my lap on the couch or by my side as I sat at the kitchen table while my friend Maureen cooked. At one point, Maureen observed ruefully, “As much as I know Mickey likes us and is happy here, he seems to love you best!”
I hastened to point out that this is absolutely not so; I am certain that the six months in their home has strongly cemented Mickey’s relationship with the whole family, far beyond what could have developed in the short amount of time that Mickey and I spent together as I was trying to find him a home.
However, Maureen isn’t the first person I know who felt that their dog favored me (temporarily) over them – and I don’t think it’s because I’m special. Lots of dog trainers – and owners with above-average powers of observation, knowledge of operant conditioning, and good timing – discover that dogs like them and seek them out, sometimes favoring them over their owners.
I think that when a person spends a little time training a dog with methods that make sense to the dog, the dog feels understood – and he enjoys the experience. I think it’s as if he has a clear and interesting conversation with someone he has a lot in common with – as opposed to being forced to spend time with someone who converses with unpredictable bits of interesting news interspersed with lots of meaningless noise punctuated by unpleasant misunderstandings. And I suspect that this latter description is how many dogs spend their lives with humans. “Blah blah blah blah, Ginger, blah blah blah blah.”
When training is richly rewarding, makes sense, and is fun, it makes a dog want to be around the trainer, whether for rewards, understanding, or fun. Even though I haven’t actually trained Mickey to do anything for months, or so much as given him a treat, he still thinks of me as someone potentially rewarding and enjoyable. Or rather, associates me with rewards and fun.
Or do you think he remembers me as the person who took him away from the shelter and found him a family? I do not think that; that’s giving him far more credit for memory and intelligence than I think dogs have.
Have you had this experience with someone else’s dog? How did you explain it?
I first met “Leroy” before he had a name, when he was just one more young dog in my local shelter, looking for a forever home. I believe the shelter identified him guessed at his identity as an Australian Cattle Dog-mix.
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Some friends were kind enough to travel 150 miles from their home city to my little town so that I could help them find a nice dog. I showed them a bunch of dogs, but favored two or three smallish, sweet-tempered dogs. They chose Leroy, and have been generally very happy with him. They’ve taken two or three group training classes with him, and have definitely done their homework with him. He’s a sweet, smart, well-behaved guy.
As he’s matured and I’ve visited him a few times, I’ve stayed confident that Leroy is an Australian Cattle Dog-mix. I see the breed in his general shape, his face, ears, and his general demeanor: sharp and attentive.
Recently, the couple ordered a Wisdom Panel Mixed Breed Identification Test – a DNA test that purports to offer insights as to a mixed-breed dog’s origin. The results indicated that Leroy is at least half Poodle, with Borzoi detected with “low confidence.” Hmmm.
We’re going to be publishing an article about these tests in an upcoming issue of WDJ. Anyone care to share their experiences with these tests?
My dog Otto has a love/hate relationship with the UPS and FedEx guys. He hates the rumbling trucks – will growl when he hears one rumble by anywhere in the neighborhood – and is outraged by the behavior of the drivers, who complacently open our front gate and leave packages on our porch with impunity (knowing Otto is safely contained in the backyard). But once the front gate is closed and the trucks have pulled away, he’s always psyched to go investigate the boxes. He smells each of them long and hard. I sure wish I could see what he sees, smells, or thinks of the boxes.
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Sometimes the boxes contain samples of products that companies send us in hopes of a review. In these cases, Otto often gets to sample treats or play with a new toy. This happens frequently enough to keep him excited about the arrival of any box.
For the past month, most of the boxes have been full of dog food – a big month, in Otto’s eyes. I ask the companies whose products I am reviewing for WDJ’s annual dry dog food review to send me samples. Sadly, for Otto, it’s not for a feeding trial or even a taste test. I let the companies know that ALL of the food samples will be sent to my local shelter as soon as I’ve finished examining the labels and taking pictures.
Pet food labels can tell you a lot about a company. Of course, it’s my mission to educate dog owners to read the ingredients list and the guaranteed analysis, and understand those parts of the label well. But it’s also informative to see what OTHER text companies include on the label. Is it instructive? Accurate? Or just marketing crap, full of fuzzy logic and euphemisms? Also, is it easy to find the company’s contact information, and is there a toll-free phone number and website included? Or just a city and state? Is there a date/code that lists the date of the food’s production, or just a “best by” date (which indicates the food’s suggested expiration date – but without a date of production or the knowledge of how many months the maker suggests the food is good for, this is “soft” information). So, even if I have had all my questions answered about “what’s in the bag” by the company’s website and representatives, seeing the bag is helpful, too.
I try to make it clear to each of the companies whose products I am reviewing that the sample is not a requirement of the review (again, I recommend or approve foods based on what they contain, which I can learn from the company and its website) and that it won’t IMPROVE their review –– but I also let them know that the samples are helpful, AND that the samples will help a deserving shelter. That shelter is the Northwest SPCA, located here in my town of Oroville. It’s an “open admission” shelter with contracts that serve both the city of Oroville AND all the unincorporated areas in Butte County (there are other towns and cities in the county that are served by their own shelters). The quality of care and dedication given to the animals by the small staff has surprised and pleased me ever since I moved here in 2006 from the San Francisco Bay Area –where most of the shelters I had experience with were far better funded and supported by volunteers. Here in Oroville, the shelter is used to accomplishing a lot with very little, and I’m happy that WDJ’s review can benefit them in some way.
It took two trips with one of the shelter’s small pickup trucks to carry all the food samples from my home office to the shelter when the review was complete. My sincere thanks go to the pet food companies – especially the ones who sent multiple boxes of extraneous samples. Otto will get over his loss; I bought a bag of some special dried meat-treats to ease his disappointment at seeing all the boxes of food taken away.
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When we talk about dogs, invariably we talk about dog people. The human desire to group things that interest us and build commonality among kindred spirits is hardwired- as is our tendency to segregate and highlight differences. As a result, dog people may identify as belonging to as many different canine communities as there are breeds. And within those “tribes,” we have mores, and values, and politics – and not all of them are compatible.
I belong to a tribe that is somewhat beleaguered these days: I breed and show purebred dogs. I screen my homes carefully. I have long legal contracts that require any dog of my breeding to be returned to me if he or she is no longer wanted, regardless of reason or age or health condition. And, of course, I require that all puppies that I sell as companions be spayed and neutered.
But in recent years, my attitude on that last score has begun to change, in large part due to new information about the potential for adverse effects of spay and neuter surgeries. My contracts still require those lovely and loved companions to be altered, and in more than a decade I have never had any reproduce (at least as far as I know!). But the details regarding when I want spay/neuter surgery done on my puppies have changed, and likely will continue to evolve.
Broaching the subject of delayed spay/neuter – and in the case of some males, perhaps not neutering at all – is the doggie equivalent of discussing Clinton versus Trump at the Christmas dinner table, which gives me pause, because I let that happen last month, with predictably disastrous results. It has the potential of making people angry, threatened, bewildered, regretful – maybe even a combination of all those. That’s not my intent.
What I want to do, though, is open up dialogue on a subject that for a long time has been presented as black and white.
While no one questions the importance of spay/neuter as a tool to stem animal overpopulation, the questions on the table are: Does one size fit all? Should committed, responsible people review the facts and scientific literature to make an individualized decision for their particular dog? Is it always necessary to remove testes in a male dog and ovaries in a female dog in order to render them sterile, or are there other options? What are the real risks of keeping a dog intact for some period of time, balanced against a growing body of evidence showing that early spay/neuter might be implicated in a number of orthopedic, oncological, and even behavioral problems?
So many questions, and unfortunately, no clear-cut answers.
A Spay/NeuterHistory Lesson
The American embrace of spay/neuter evolved in concert with human population trends. The post-World War II “baby boom” and economic expansion saw families increasingly bringing dogs and cats into their households – and the animals reproduced even more prolifically than the families themselves.
As cities (and later, rural communities) began to employ and then depend on animal shelters to deal with stray and unwanted pets, the population of animals concentrated in those facilities, leading to routine killing of excess dogs and cats. Spay/neuter was embraced enthusiastically by shelter workers and rescue volunteers alike as an effective tool for helping control the population of unwanted animals and reducing euthanasia. By the 1970s, the veterinary culture had also embraced surgical sterilization for population control.
This is in contrast to attitudes elsewhere in the world, particularly in many parts of Europe, where unaltered dogs are common. In Norway, it is illegal to spay or neuter a dog without a valid medical reason. The rationale is that it is morally wrong to surgically alter a dog for human whim or convenience, which puts spay/neuter on a par with ear cropping and tail docking.
Over the decades, as animal sheltering has increased in visibility and animal rescue has become more popular, spay/neuter has hardened into an almost militant social policy. Today, it’s widely a cultural norm for dogs to lack any physical signs of sexual maturation. I’ve had puppy buyers balk at the idea of a female’s silhouette being made “unsightly” by visible nipples, and I had a co-worker who almost threw up at the idea of testicles on a male dog. “Rubbing on my couch – ugh!” she proclaimed.
And, oftentimes, what we don’t know, we fear. “The average person has never seen a dog in heat, never seen dogs mating, never watched a female give birth, never watched her raise her puppies,” one veterinarian reminded me.
Spay/Neuter from a Medical Perspective
Population control – specifically, as a tool to reduce the mass killing in our nation’s animal shelters – has always been the overarching goal of spay/neuter campaigns. Other benefits of sterilization surgery have been enthusiastically promoted by veterinarians and the shelter community alike.
For example, spaying prevents pyometra, which affects a full quarter of all intact females by age 10. And in males, neutering removes the possibility of testicular cancer as well as reduces the risk of prostate enlargement and infection later in life. Neutering is also believed to reduce hormone-related behaviors such as leg lifting, humping, and male-on-male aggression.
The universal recommendation that dogs and cats of both genders undergo sterilization surgery at six months of age came from the handy benchmark of the average age that most females come into heat. Those involved in animal sheltering have been the most vocal proponents of even earlier sterilization, now commonly referred to as pediatric spay/neuter. Shelter medicine experts point out that pediatric spay/neuter surgical procedures are easier and faster; and with shorter surgery and anesthesia times, the incidence of postoperative complications is low, and recovery very quick.
Prior to widespread acceptance of this practice, shelters often allowed adoption of intact pets, and held a deposit from pet adopters, returning the money only when the owner showed proof that the pet had been sterilized. However, some owners failed to comply, giving up the deposits, and others complied only after the pet had an accidental litter. Pediatric surgery closed this loophole; indisputably, the biggest benefit of pediatric spay/neuter is populational. With this tool, shelters can prevent every animal leaving the shelter from ever reproducing.
Shelter workers and veterinarians who offer pediatric spay/neuter are understandably fans of the practice, citing those quick recovery times for young animals. The biggest long-term health benefit of pediatric sterilization, however, is usually identified as the prevention of mammary cancer in females.
Questioning the Spay/Neuter Status Quo
As with a number of other canine healthcare practices, in recent years, the conventions of spay/neuter surgery are being questioned by some canine health experts and dogs owners – particularly those with a “holistic dog” mind set, many of whom are accustomed to questioning the status quo.
Most of these owners also research what is in their dogs’ food and their veterinarians’ vaccine syringes; they want to do what’s healthiest, what’s most natural, for their dogs, even if it challenges – or upends – the conventional wisdom. But this topic could be the third rail of dogdom: the assumption that we should automatically and unquestionably spay and neuter all our companion dogs.
Some of these owners, influenced by the opinions of a few canine health experts, are beginning to question the validity of many long-held beliefs about the medical and behavioral benefits of spay/neuter. A growing number (particularly those in performance eventing, who are closely attuned to changes and weaknesses in their dogs’ bodies) are contemplating delayed spay/neuter, and – increasingly, in the case of males – even dispensing with it altogether.
One of the most vocal opponents to today’s spay/neuter conventions is Chris Zink, DVM, PhD, DACVP, DACVSMR, of Ellicott City, Maryland. Dr. Zink’s interest in the subject was promoted by her work with performance dogs, who compete in high-impact, physically demanding sports like agility. Many, if not most, of these dogs are sterilized.
In 2005, Dr. Zink first published an article, “Early Spay-Neuter Considerations for the Canine Athlete,” which lists studies that highlight the risks of early spay/neuter. One orthopedic issue she mentions (and one that I have seen time and again) is the elongated “look” that results from prematurely shutting off the sex hormones that govern the closing of the growth plates. These longer, lighter limbs, and narrow chests and skulls aren’t just a cosmetic concern: A 2002 study published in Cancer Epidemiology, Biomarkers & Prevention showed that this lengthening of the long bones creates a significantly higher risk of osteosarcoma, or bone cancer, in dogs altered at younger than one year.
The list of problems that Dr. Zink associates with early spay/neuter continues: greater risk of hemangiosarcoma, mast cell cancer, lymphoma, and bladder cancer; higher incidence of hip dysplasia in dogs spayed or neutered at six months of age; significantly higher prevalence of cranial cruciate ligament (CCL) injury; heightened risk of urinary incontinence in females that are spayed early, as well as some cases in males; greater likelihood of hypothyroidism in spayed and neutered dogs; higher incidence of infectious diseases in dogs spayed and neutered at 24 weeks or less; higher incidence of adverse reactions to vaccines in altered dogs; and increased risk of prostate cancer in neutered males.
It’s a long list, and it grows as Dr. Zink adds other studies that support the view that on balance, early spay/neuter is “not more healthy” than waiting until a dog is sexually mature before he or she is altered.
Health is not the only area where Dr. Zink questions the benefits of early spay/neuter; she is currently co-authoring a study that analyzes how spay/neuter affected 26 different behavioral components in 15,000 dogs. “The fact of the matter is, spay or neuter doesn’t improve their behavior in any way,” she says. “[Intact dogs] are not more aggressive to dogs or strangers.”
To say Dr. Zink’s position on the importance of avoiding early spay/neuter is controversial is perhaps an understatement; it does, after all, contradict the position held by most general-practice veterinarians. Critiques and rebuttals to each of her bullet points are all over the Internet; one person who read an early draft of this article called her a “zealot.” And for every study she cites, a Google search will undoubtedly turn up another that says the opposite.
But to me, that just reinforces the importance of keeping an open mind: With so many differing viewpoints, how do we know who is right? “It doesn’t matter if we all don’t do the ‘right’ thing,” goes one of my favorite lines about following the lemmings when you breed dogs. “It just matters that we don’t all do the same thing.” I think that applies to early spay/neuter, too.
My Personal Approach
When I changed my attitudes about annual vaccination and about feeding raw versus kibble, it was easy to get caught up in the battle of facts and statistics that both sides drummed up. In the end, the tool I used to make my decisions about “what is best” for my dogs was common sense. I stepped back and asked: Does it make sense to feed a dog a diet of processed foods whose protein sources are not fit for human consumption? Does it make sense to overload a dog’s immune system with yearly vaccines for some diseases that are not prevalent or ultimately life-threatening?
And for early spay/neuter, I asked myself: Does it make sense to think that you can remove a puppy’s major reproductive organs – and all the hormones that go with it – and not expect there to be some biological ramifications? For me, what has been missing from the spay/neuter discussion has been the question of holism, which can’t be answered by citing JAVMA papers or orchestrating double-blind studies.
Myrna Milani, DVM, of TippingPoint Animal Behavior Consulting Services in Charlestown, New Hampshire, thinks back to the zeal with which she approached spay/neuter during the 1970s. “I could have won the Golden Gonad Award – there wasn’t a pair of testicles or ovaries that was safe from me,” she says. “Then I woke up one day and thought, ‘My God, what have I done?’ As a woman who went through puberty, who menstruated, who had sex, who had children, who was going through menopause, how in the world could I have been so naïve as to say that all ovaries did was affect reproduction? That they did not affect the entire body?
“Dogs are like us: We have testosterone and estrogen receptors all over our bodies – they are in our brains, lungs, bones . . . They affect learning, they affect memory,” Dr. Milani says. If we remove the organs that produce most of the body’s testosterone and estrogen before those hormones have an opportunity to exert their influence on the dog, we’re going to have to deal with the consequences down the road, she warns.
Risks and Solutions: Spaying Females
The two biggest health benefits cited for spaying females before their first heat is reduced risk of mammary-cancer rates and the elimination of pyometra. Personally, unless a female is being used for breeding, I can’t find a justification for keeping her unspayed indefinitely. For me, the question is not whether to spay, but when to.
In terms of my own puppy buyers, I have encouraged them to allow their female puppies to go through one heat cycle before spaying – provided they know what they are getting into (see “Keeping Intact Dogs“) and can house a female pup securely for that three-week period. Though there are no studies to confirm this, anecdotal evidence suggests that allowing the body to go through a heat allows the genitalia to mature normally, avoiding or resolving inverted vulvas that can lead to incontinence. It also permits the maturation of estrogen receptors, which might also play a role in incontinence, a known risk of spay surgery, and beyond.
A study published in the Journal of the National Institutes of Cancer in 1969, “Factors Influencing Canine Mammary Cancer Development and Post-Surgical Survival Rates,” is the most commonly cited reference regarding the correlation between spaying and mammary cancer in dogs. It says that females spayed before their first heat have an almost zero chance of developing mammary cancer; after the first heat, that risk rises to 8 percent, and 26 percent after the second heat. Beyond that point, the study says, the protective aspect of spaying (as regards mammary cancer) is negligible.
Though that study is almost universally quoted when supporting early spay, it’s also been criticized as poorly designed. Even so, I always thought that an 8 percent increased risk of mammary cancer was a chance was worth taking, if allowing the dog to mature sexually helped prevent other issues such as other cancers and various orthopedic concerns. Mammary cancer isn’t the only thing female dogs can die from; it is one concern among many.
Since our experience colors things, my attitude also likely has to do with the fact that I have not had much experience with mammary cancer in my intact females or those of fellow breeders. That is not to say that it won’t happen – and as soon as you say, “Not me!” it usually does – but for the moment, cancers like lymphoma and hemangiosarcoma are anecdotally more prevalent, even among the retired breeding bitches I know.
Both Dr. Zink and Dr. Milani think that in the case of females, spaying after the second heat (which is likely to be more regular and normal than the first heat) is ideal. Milani points to a 1991 study in the American Journal of Epidemiology that showed that the risk of mammary cancer was significantly reduced in females who were spayed at or before 2½ years old, and who had been thin at nine to 12 months of age.
When it comes time to do the spay surgery at whatever age, Dr. Zink advocates removing just the uterus and leaving the ovaries intact. In this way, there is no risk of pyometra, the female will not go into heat and be attractive to males, she cannot get pregnant – and she retains her hormone-producing ovaries. She cautions, however, that the veterinarian performing the surgery needs to be sure that the entire uterus is removed, because dogs can develop stump pyometras, which are just as life-threatening.
While performing a tubal ligation, or “tube tying,” is certainly an option, it is somewhat impractical, as removal of the uterus at a later date still would be necessary to eliminate the risk of pyometra.
What are the proven risks or benefits of removing a dog’s uterus but leaving the ovaries intact? No one can say for sure; it simply has not been done enough. Would those hormone-producing ovaries continue to raise the risk for mammary cancer? Or, conversely, being unable to “communicate” with the uterus that they know is supposed to be there, would the ovaries eventually stop working, as they do with women after hysterectomies? Again, no one knows for sure.
Alternative Solutions: Neutering Males
In many respects, delaying neutering in males is a little easier: The health ramifications, while still present, are not as dire as for females.
Testicular cancer is still a concern, but is easily detectable, Dr. Zink says. “You just watch for it by examining the testicles regularly. If you see one testicle is larger, it usually means there’s a tumor there, but it is almost always benign. However, at that point you would have the testicles removed.”
A bigger problem, in my experience, is prostatitis in intact males, especially older ones who are sexually stimulated by intact females in the household. If a prostate infection develops, and leads to an abscess, it can be difficult to diagnose. I almost lost an unneutered older male to an abscess that had thankfully not yet gone into sepsis -but I have friends with dogs who were not as lucky.
Because of health considerations, my puppy contracts currently ask that male puppies not be neutered before 12 months, and ideally at 18 months. Some people are willing to wait, but most aren’t, and that’s okay with me; I tell them to hang on for as long as they can.
However, if their male dog will be taken to visit dog parks on a regular basis, then I tell them to neuter before he really begins to elicit a response from the neutered adult males there – usually by 10 months of age. If not, one day when his hormonal signature becomes a threat, the neutered dogs will go for him (though he will be blamed, because he is the intact one), and his happy-go-lucky attitude toward other dogs might change forever. And that’s just not worth an extra couple of months of testosterone in my book.
The people who have my males are responsible caretakers who don’t permit them to roam and who don’t have unspayed females in the household. Frankly, I’m okay with ultra-responsible people leaving these males dogs intact as Mother Nature made them, for life. But for males who are at risk of being inadvertently bred – or whose breeders require in their contracts that they be sterilized – Dr. Zink recommends vasectomy. This renders the male unable to reproduce, but allows him to continue to produce testosterone.
While a male with a vasectomy won’t be able to sire puppies, he likely will have difficulty fitting into some social situations, such as dog parks. A vasectomized dog still has his testicles and appears to be entire, and “lots of dog parks won’t let you bring a dog in if it is intact,” warns Dr. Zink. And because such dogs still produce testosterone, “and neutered dogs tend to be aggressive toward intact dogs” (not, as many believe, the other way around) the snipped males at the run will be just as snarky, because their noses will alert them to a vasectomized dog’s unchanged testosterone levels.
As for dogs with retained testicles, “a study has been done that showed for every 100 dogs with retained testicles who live to be 10, 12 of them will get cancer of the testicle, though it is almost always benign,” Dr. Zink says. Because this does not happen until the dog is older – around age seven or later – she recommends keeping dogs with retained testicles intact until they are three or four, then removing the retained testicle and vasectomizing the other.
Obstacles and Social Acceptance of Keeping Intact Dogs
Of course, most shelters and rescues require spay/neuter surgery on every dog they place, and adopters are rarely permitted to dictate the timing of the surgery (though, presumably, most never ask). For many who rescue and rehome dogs, this entire discussion is moot; they are understandably more committed to saving unwanted dogs’ lives than optimizing the lives of dogs obtained at puppyhood from a breeder.
Among my fellow breeders, the idea of delaying spay/neuter is no longer a hot button. Not everyone does it, but pretty much everyone respects your right to take a different approach – as long as the owners are responsible, and capable of preventing their animals from accidental breedings and of providing the scrupulous medical care and attention needed to detect signs of health problems, such as mammary or testicular cancer, that can occur in intact dogs and those who were sterilized later in life.
And that brings us to the uncomfortable realization that spay/neuter also has much to do with issues of socio-economics and class. Cultural attitudes, knowledge base and lifestyle can vary dramatically, depending on where you live. That isn’t to say that one category of owner is “better” than the other, just that they are different, and they come with different risk levels. Many rescuers or breeders feel their adopters or puppy people can’t handle the very serious responsibility of deferring spay/neuter to a later date. Still others see the subject as a Pandora’s box: If social attitudes soften and spay/neuter loses its sense of urgency, could it set back all the hard work done by committed rescuers?
Cultural attitudes aside, there is a pragmatic problem to taking an alternative approach to spay/neuter, such as removing only the female’s uterus or performing a vasectomy on a male dog: many vets are not open to it. Author, blogger, and veterinarian Patty Khuly, of Sunset Animal Clinic in Miami, Florida, says she gets a few emails a week asking for help in finding a vet capable of and willing to perform the alternative procedures. Dr. Khuly responds by advising the emailers how to talk to their vets. “I tell them to explain that [the procedures] are described in surgery textbooks. Be thoughtful about why you want it done. Say, ‘I know you think this is weird, but I have thought about it quite a bit. There are vets doing it across country, though there are not many of them. I’ve been told it’s easier to do than a [conventional] spay/neuter.’ The vet might be curious enough to attempt it.”
While conventional spay/neuter practices and schedules will likely be the norm for the foreseeable future, as with every other important decision that you must make about your dog’s care and feeding, it’s important to inform yourself about the advantages and disadvantages of early, adult, or no spay/neuter surgery – and then make a decision that is right for you and your individual dog. Once that choice is made – no matter what choice it is – take responsibility for the consequences.
Denise Flaim of Revodana Ridgebacks in Long Island, New York, shares her home with three intact Ridgebacks, three 8-year-old children, and a very patient husband.
If you decide to delay spaying or neutering your dog, for whatever length of time or whatever reason, here is something else to consider- Some people just may not be cut out to deal with an intact male or female dog in their household. Here are some caveats and considerations:
1. Female dogs bleed when they come into heat.
Female dogs do not get menstrual periods like humans, as some people mistakenly believe; they come into “heat,” or “season,” once or twice a year – the three to four days in their cycle when their unfertilized eggs ripen. (Though both biological processes involve bleeding, it’s inaccurate to compare a woman’s monthly cycle, which is an infertile time, to the heat in the female dog, which is quite the opposite. Dogs get pregnant while bleeding.) Some dogs cycle every six months; more primitive breeds, such as Basenjis or Tibetan Mastiffs, come into heat only once a year.
2. Female dogs can only get pregnant when they’re in heat.
A dog will begin her heat cycle after about 6 months of age. Some females will show physical signs of readiness – their discharge will lighten in color, and they will “flag,” or lift their tail up and to the side. Others will show no behavioral changes; still others will “stand” and accept a suitor at any time in their cycle, even days before or after they are fertile. If you cannot be absolutely certain of identifying the signs of heat in your female, and securing her during this time, spay her. Intact males are frighteningly persistent in reaching the object of their desires; they will hurl themselves through glass windows, and might even attempt (and succeed) at breeding a female through the wires of a crate.
3. Unneutered male dogs can get forceful.
You cannot leave a female in heat unattended for one moment outside, not even in a fenced yard. Whether or not she is in that narrow window of time when she can get pregnant, she might attract a male, and they might breed anyway. There is no way to predict how a male dog will act when a nearby female is in heat. Though dogs have been mating for millennia, it is not a process that is without risk of physical harm to one or both dogs.
4. Unspayed female dogs will attract stray males – from miles away.
If there are stray dogs where you live, walking a female in heat is asking for trouble. Ideally, have a secure, fenced area where your female can do her business, always supervised by you. If you must take her out in public to walk her, carry an umbrella that you can open to ward off unwelcome males, but know that you still might not be able to keep them apart.
5. Unspayed females need to wear sanitary pads while in heat.
Dogs stay in heat about three weeks, but the female will neither bleed heavily nor bleed every day. Nonetheless, to protect your carpets and furniture, it is smart to invest in “bitch’s britches,” which are dog-proportioned panties that can be fitted with a disposable sanitary napkin.
6. You cannot keep intact males and females in the same house.
If you have an unneutered male dog in your household, and you want to let your female go through one or more heat cycles before spaying her, the smartest and safest thing is to remove one of them for the duration of the female’s heat. It is difficult to describe the stress, restlessness, and sheer loss of sanity that a male dog can exhibit in the face of a female in standing season. It will be close to unbearable for you, to say nothing of him. Plan a vacation for one of them, ideally the male. (And if you plan to use a boarding kennel, females in heat will be too big a disruption there in the event other unneutered dogs are there, too.)
7. You cannot spay a dog while she is in heat.
Once your female has started her heat, don’t change course. Many veterinarians are reluctant to spay females in the middle of estrus; the uterus, preparing for pregnancy, is very vascular, and the risk of internal bleeding is higher. Instead, schedule spay surgery at a hormonally “quiet” time, ideally midway between heats. Depending on the individual dog, unneutered males can be trained through consistency and positive reinforcement not to urine-mark in the house. Ditto for discouraging “humping.” Do not tolerate these behaviors at any time.
8. Unneutered male dogs are always fertile.
As with unspayed females, unneutered male dog behavior must be under your control and supervision at all times. It is the height of irresponsibility to allow them to wander. Unlike females, unneutered males can procreate all the time, and they can create a neighborhood population explosion in no time at all.
9. Intact dogs are less welcomed in public.
Remember that in the larger world outside your door, intact dogs are the minority. By choosing to have an unneutered male (in particular, because he is visually easy to identify), you restrict your options and access to different environments, including dog runs and doggie day care. You will likely be required to explain and defend your decision not to neuter your dog; be prepared, be polite, and have a very thick skin.
If you had to choose one behavior as the single most useful one among all the behaviors you have taught your dog, which would it be? We asked that question of a half-dozen professional positive pet trainers, and not surprisingly, got a half-dozen different answers.
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My own choice would be the “Wait” behavior. A puzzling choice, perhaps, for a trainer who professes to value relationships with dogs based on asking them “to do” things rather than “not do” things, but my choice, nonetheless. In a multi-dog household, this is an invaluable cue. I use it when I come downstairs in the morning, asking the pack to “Wait” on the landing so I can make it to the bottom of the staircase without tripping over multiple furry bodies. I use it at the door, asking those with less-reliable recalls to wait while the more-reliables go out first to enjoy a bit more freedom. Then Bonnie must wait while 14-year-old Missy, with mobility issues, trundles down the three stairs to outside. Finally, Dubhy and Bonnie are released to go out, with me following right behind to keep them under my direct supervision. We use “Wait” multiple times as we do barn chores, carrying hay, moving horses and pushing wheelbarrows out the gate while leaving the dogs in the barn. And so it goes throughout the day.
Another “Waiter” Trainer Cindy Mauro, of Bergen County, New Jersey, whose household also includes multiple dogs, agrees with me about the value of “Wait.” (Mauro is shown here with three of her dogs waiting on cue at the top of her front stairs – a valuable behavior when said stairs are icy!) Mauro suggests that “wait” is also invaluable to prevent dogs from flying out of open car doors and to keep them calm on walks. We both teach it initially with a food bowl, and then generalize it to doorways and other scenarios. Here’s how:
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With your dog sitting at your side, hold her food bowl at chest level and tell her to “Wait!” Use a cheerful tone of voice, not a threatening one. Move the food bowl (with food it in, topped with tasty treats) toward the floor two to four inches. If your dog stays sitting, click your clicker or use a verbal marker, raise the bowl back up to its original height, and feed her a treat from the bowl. If your dog gets up, don’t click! Say “Oops!” instead, and ask her to sit again. “Oops!” is a “no-reward marker” – it tells her that getting up didn’t earn a treat – the opposite of a clicker or verbal reward marker, which tells her she did earn a reward.
Now lower the bowl two to four inches again, click and treat. Repeat this step several times until your dog consistently remains sitting as you lower the bowl. Gradually move the bowl closer to the floor with successive repetitions, returning to full height to feed the treat after each click, until you can place it on the floor without your dog trying to get up or eat it.
Finally, place the bowl on the floor and tell her to eat. The beauty of this exercise is that you have two built-in obvious practice opportunities every day (if you feed your dog twice a day, as I do).
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When your dog will wait reliably for her food bowl, you can begin to “generalize” the cue by practicing at the door – another natural practice opportunity, since most dogs go in and out of doors several times a day. Ask her to sit at the door, and tell her to “Wait” – cheerfully! Reach for the doorknob. If she stays sitting, click and treat. If she gets up, say “Oops!” and ask her to sit again.
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When she will stay sitting, increase the difficulty by touching the doorknob, jiggling the doorknob, opening the door a crack, and gradually increasing the amount you open the door. Click and treat several times at each increment before proceeding to the next step. As with the food bowl, if your dog is having trouble succeeding, back up, and take smaller steps.
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Place C.C. Casale, PMCT, CPDT-KA, of SouthPaw Pet Care LLC in Charleston, South Carolina, puts “Go to your place!” at the top of her list. She explains that this behavior became very necessary when her Rough Collie, Valentino, joined the family and taught Rocco, her Sicilian Greyhound, how much fun it can be to bark at people approaching the front door or ringing the doorbell.
Casale says, “I taught this skill by capturing the behavior when it was naturally offered by either of our two dogs. The plan was to use this behavior when someone visited our front door so we could keep the dogs safe, away from the open door, and in a settled position, to prevent over-excitement. My husband and I already allowed our dogs to lie on our living room loveseat, which is covered with a fur-friendly slipcover. It was an obvious choice to teach them to ‘Place,’ based on proximity to the front door and their predisposition to enjoy staying in that location.
First, I used a cue they know, ‘Up,’ and practiced the behavior by having them jump up on the loveseat when cued, followed with a prompt of my outstretched arm and finger pointing to the couch cushion. I then changed the cue to ‘Place’ by saying it after the cue ‘Up’ and using the same visual prompt of my outstretched arm and finger. After repeating this to reliability, I removed the ‘Up’ cue, and only used the verbal ‘Place’ cue with prompting. The last step was to remove the prompt after they both reliably offered the behavior when asked, 8 out of 10 times.
“Next , I had someone they know very well (my husband) approach the front door and then walk away. I gradually increased the stimulus by having him open and close the front door and walk away, then enter and walk away, and eventually ring the door bell and enter our home. I then generalized the behavior by having a neighbor the dogs knew well repeat the entire process until they were able to stay in ‘Place.’ Next, we asked another neighbor they’d met but didn’t know well to do the same. The final test was doing the exercise with strangers like delivery men.
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“Finally, we needed to generalize the behavior to other locations. To do this, I took each of their flat rectangular beds and placed them on the loveseat. This created a smaller visual marker upon which they could practice ‘Place.’ It also gave us a portable ‘Place’ mat we could use anywhere. We now take their beds with us wherever we go, and ‘The Boyz’ have a ready made ‘Place’ when we need them to settle for a while. This is very helpful when going to dinner at friends’ homes, and in the vet office waiting room. A small bath mat or yoga mat cut in half work well as place mats; both are easy to roll up and carry anywhere.”
Recall Coming when called is a likely choice of a “most useful” behavior for many trainers and owners. This invaluable behavior adds a layer of safety to any dog’s world, and allows canine family members to enjoy a greater degree of freedom. Lisa Waggoner, PMCT2, CPDT-KA, of Cold Nose College in Murphy, North Carolina, was reminded of the importance of a good recall when a new puppy joined her family.
Waggoner says, “A solid recall has allowed me to feel comfortable with Willow in many environments, including large indoor environments as well as outdoor environments, and to have confidence that while working off-leash, I can easily recall her to me. I’ve started calling it a Rocket Recall Recipe. I love training it and I love maintaining it.
“It’s a learned behavior, just like any other behavior I want to teach a dog. I classically condition the dog’s name by pairing it with high-value food so that I get a whiplash turn to me when I say the dog’s name.
Bonita Ash of Ashford Studio
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“Then I classically condition the recall cue by pairing it with very high-value food (for Willow it’s Vienna sausage). My cue is ‘Come, come, come!’ delivered in rapid fire staccato manner – and actually, the ‘m’ isn’t really pronounced, so it sounds more like ‘Co, co, come!’
“After conditioning the cue, I then say the cue and run away from the dog, taking advantage of her natural desire to chase. When she follows, I click and deliver six to eight pea-sized pieces of extremely yummy food, one bit after another. Because I tap into my inner Looney Tunes character, it’s FUN for her! If I have any doubt about the dog following me, I’ll begin on-leash, then transition off-leash, because I want her to be successful so she can get reinforced. I want her to get it right.
“Practice inside first, so that the recall is very reliable, before ever taking it out of doors. An off-leash indoor recall is like a high school diploma – pretty easy to get. An off-leash, outdoor recall is like a PhD; it takes a lot more work.
“Then practice outside. Because of our fenced acreage I really never did any on-leash work outdoors with her; it was all off-leash. I continued to get her attention by using her name (Willow!); then, when she looked at me, I delivered the recall cue ‘Co, co, come!’ (that’s really what it sounds like), ran away, reinforced heavily with yummy food, then released her to ‘go play’ again. I very slowly increased the distance, then ping-ponged back and forth between short distances and longer distances. I practiced in a variety of environments and always made sure she could ‘get it right’ so that she’d get reinforced for being successful. The environments were at home (indoors and out), at the training center, and at a nearby park (on a long line, then off-leash because it was a safe area).
“When she was consistently successful at returning to me in all of the above locations with no distractions, I began using distractions: Brad (my husband, also a trainer) or Brad and Cody (our other Australian Shepherd) walking in the pasture; another person in the training center; a person a distance away at the park, etc.). I drastically decreased the distance I expected her to travel with each new distraction, then slowly increased that distance as she was consistently successful.
“My next big step was to begin practicing when she was playing with other dogs during our off-leash, outdoor socials for clients and their dogs. Again, wanting her to be successful, I’d wait until she had played for 20-30 minutes and was a bit tired. Then as she was beginning to disengage from a particular play group, I’d say her name, ‘Willow!’ She’d look immediately at me, and I’d deliver my recall cue ‘Co, co, come!’ and run away. Voila! She’d chase me and I’d pay off big time! I slowly increased my distance from her before I delivered the cue and she was successful yet again.
– “When working in a new location, I’d again set her up for success by decreasing the distance, saying her name, delivering the cue, running away, and paying her with a big jackpot.
– The following are more vital ingredients for Waggoner’s “Rocket Recall Recipe.” Reward all check-in’s indoors (any time the dog happens to come up and say “Hi”). Reward all check-in’s when outdoors, then release to “go play.”
– Never use the recall cue if you plan to do something to your dog that your dog finds unpleasant (such as clipping nails or taking a bath). Never call your dog if you don’t think your dog will come (i.e., if he’s entranced by the sight of a squirrel or deer).
– If you make a mistake on the above, “save” the recall by finding your inner Looney Tunes character, squealing, clapping, patting your legs while running away from him so that he’ll return to you and you can reward him.
– Never repeat the cue; say it only once and then make yourself as interesting as possible with a high voice, clapping, squatting, squeaking a squeaky toy, etc.
– Always pay off big time, with food or something else your dog loves – a “life reward.”
– Practice, practice, practice!
The following are links to videos of Lisa Waggoner working on “rocket recalls.”
Name Recognition Chris Danker, CPDT-KA, PMCT3, KPA-CTP, of Hemlock Hollow LLC in Albany County, New York, concurs with Waggoner on the importance of name recognition and recalls, and gives additional tips for the name response behavior.
Danker suggests starting on-leash and following these steps: “Say your dog’s name, then click and treat. Repeat this step hundreds of times. For the first 50 or so repetitions your dog doesn’t have to be doing anything in particular. Start when you are sitting, then practice standing, and take a step or two as you say your dog’s name.
“If your dog has enough deposits in his name-response bank account he will look at you when he hears his name. If he doesn’t, help him out by putting a treat near his nose and luring him toward you. Give him the treat and practice more repetitions with higher-value reinforcers. Use better treats such as freeze dried tripe or all-meat jars of baby food. You want to pay off big for him responding to his name. Save these special treats for your name game training so you keep them special!
“Practice first in all rooms of the house, then outside in a quiet area, and eventually in locations with more distractions. When your dog immediately looks back at you upon hearing his name, add distance. Then take the game outdoors. Your mission is accomplished when your dog will respond in an empty parking lot; when there is other activity around you; even when other dogs or wildlife are around!
Reverse Sharon Messersmith, owner of Canine Valley Training Facility in Reading, Pennsylvania, chose a less common behavior as her favorite: teaching her dog to back up. She uses his “Back” cue to remove tension on the leash when he’s too far out in front of her, and to get him out of potential trouble spots.
Messersmith says, “I taught my dog (a 105-pound Labrador named Benson) the behavior using a combination of luring and shaping. I started by holding a treat in front of him at chest level, and moving it toward him. He would back up to follow it. Once he began offering the behavior I was looking for I added the word, and started to use it with the luring and prompting. I then taught it to reliability by cueing him to back into the space where he always eats. His dinner was his reward! I then practiced backing him across the deck, up a few steps, across the back seat of the car – anywhere I could think of – and then feeding him. He would walk a mile backward to eat!
“I use this behavior all the time. When he is pulling on the leash, I stop and ask him to ‘Back.’ He will back up into position and we continue walking. I back him out when he is too close to another dog. I back him off the pool steps (from a distance) when another dog is trying to get out of the pool. I use ‘Back’ when in parades, for positioning him for pictures or grooming, or when I need to spread out a carpet or blanket and he’s in the way – any time I need him to move back! When you have a dog who is more than 100 pounds it’s a whole lot easier to ask him to move than to try to physically move him. This saves me a lot of strained muscles with all my dogs.
“At the Peaceable Paws Level 1 Trainer Academy, I learned a new way to teach ‘Back’ – and I prefer it to the method I used for my own dog. This way is all shaping, no luring. Standing a foot away from a wall, I toss a treat between my legs and have the dog go get it. Because the wall is there, he can’t go all the way through. (I can block the sides with boxes or chairs, if necessary). When he backs up, I click, and reward by tossing the next treat between my legs. This sets him up for the next repetition of get-the-treat-and-back-up. When the dog is performing this routine easily I add the cue, ‘Back,’ and eventually can begin using it to elicit steps backward without tossing the treat. I find with shaping I get a lot less sitting and more walking backward.”
Crating Bob Ryder, PMCT, CPDT-KA, of Pawsitive Transformations in Normal, Illinois, says his Labrador Retriever’s best behavior is going in her crate. Crating is useful for safe travel, stress-free confinement at home or away, and almost mandatory for dogs who need “restricted activity” for medical reasons.
Ryder proudly claims, “Daisy is a world class pro at going to and settling in her crate. It’s one of her favorite behaviors, and comes in handy literally every day, both at home and on the road; in the car, in motels, and in our camper – we take her with us on vacations and for almost all overnight car travel.
“Daisy first came to me as a board-and-train student for clients who couldn’t take her on vacations. I trained her with lure-and-reward techniques, gradually increasing challenges including distance from the crate and distractions such as the doorbell, the presence of guests, etc.
“Our first exercise began with just dropping a few very high-value treats (roast chicken bits) on the floor right about dinnertime when she was hungry. She was allowed to gobble them up with no behavior required other than four feet on the floor. Oops, one or two landed inside the crate while the door was closed and Daisy was locked out. It instantly built her desire to get inside. I quickly opened the door to let her in, and allowed her to come out whenever she wanted.
“After a bit of practice, I started asking her to sit before letting her in. (She already knew the ‘sit’ cue.) After a few sessions (one to two minutes each, all the same day), I dropped a few treats into the crate while she was already inside eating the ones I had dropped while she was outside. Gradually, I increased the time between dropping pieces into the crate, and also cued her to ‘down,’ then ‘down/stay’ while she was in the crate. (She was already fluent at these behaviors.) Once she was solid on the down/stay in crate with the door open, I closed the door briefly while treating, then opened it before she was done finding the tidbits in the blanket folds.
ashfordstudio.com.
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“Next sessions were done after lots of physical/mental exercise so she was tired, again while she was hungry. I added a frozen peanut butter-stuffed Kong to the equation. While the door was closed she focused on the Kong, then fell asleep for a nap. Several times I called her out of the crate before she awoke on her own, each time unobtrusively dropping a few crunchy treats back in the crate for her to come and find later.
“When it was clear that she was happy to go into her crate, I added a ‘crate up’ cue to ask her to go in. Over time, we played more crate games, using a variety of high-value reinforcers, and cueing her to go to her crate from increasingly greater distances.
“Now, Daisy will literally fly into her crate on cue from anywhere upon hearing our verbal ‘crate up!’ cue. I have cued her from her crate in the car when we’ve arrived home, and she sprints from the car to her crate in my office, bypassing any and all distractions. It’s standard operating procedure now when we have company, when the UPS or pizza delivery guy rings the bell, and when we are eating dinner and want her to settle, without sacrificing tidbits from our plates. Daisy thinks her crate is just great. So do I!”
What’s Your Dog’s MVB? Your dog’s “most valuable behavior” might not have made this list. Perhaps you found some new ones here to try – and maybe one will steal the Number One slot from your current favorite. What’s important is recognizing that we train our dogs for real-life reasons, not just for high-scoring performances in competition rings, and that the behaviors we teach have real-life value. The bottom line? Teaching your dog useful behaviors enhances the quality of her life – and yours – and all who interact with her.
Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA, CDBC, is WDJ’s Training Editor. She lives in Fairplay, Maryland, site of her Peaceable Paws training center, where she offers dog training classes and courses for trainers. Pat is also author of many books on positive training. See page 24 for more information.
Identifying a top quality dog food is not that difficult; I’m going to tell you how to do it in just a minute. But it may be difficult to find dog foods of this quality if you live far from an urban center or an independent pet supply store run by someone with more than a passing interest in canine nutrition. It may be even more difficult to afford some of the dog food brands listed; quality pet food ingredients cost more. But it shouldn’t be at all hard to see the improvements in your dog’s health if you’ve been feeding a low-quality food and make the switch to products of this quality.
Tip # 1: Whenever possible, shop at well-trafficked independent pet supply stores. The staff and/or management is usually far more helpful and knowledgeable about products that would be best for your dog at your budget. Next best: chain pet specialty stores.
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If you wear glasses to read fine print, bring ’em! You are going to study the label of each product in your price range for the following:
– Ingredients panel (where the ingredients are listed in descending order of weight in the product). More about this in a minute.
– Guaranteed analysis (which lists the minimum amounts of protein and fat and the maximum amounts of fiber and moisture, and sometimes, other nutrients). You need to know how much protein and fat your dog’s food at home contains, and whether he should get more or less. If you’ve been feeding a low-quality food with, say, 19% protein and 8% fat, you don’t want to switch overnight to a sled-dog fuel with 40% protein and 28% fat.
– “Best by” date/code (and sometimes, the date of production, too – it’s ideal to have both listed). Look for the freshest food possible, with the “best by” date at least 6 months away.
– AAFCO statement (which tells you whether the food has met the requirements of a “complete and balanced” diet, and if so, by which standard: by meeting the required nutrient levels, or by completing an AAFCO feeding trial). For more information about the difference, see “Whole Dog Journal’s 2007 Dry Dog Food Review,” WDJ February 2007.
Hallmarks of Quality
Now it’s time to scrutinize the ingredients list. The following are desired traits – things you want to see on the label.
– Lots of animal protein at the top of the ingredients list. Ingredients are listed by weight, so you want to see a lot of top quality animal protein at the top of the list; the first ingredient should be a “named” animal protein source (see next bullet).
– A named animal protein – chicken, beef, lamb, and so on. “Meat” is an example of a low-quality protein source of dubious origin. Animal protein “meals” should also be from named species (look for “chicken meal” but avoid “meat meal” or “poultry meal”). I go into greater detail about this in “The Dog Food Industry Has Come a Long Way!, WDJ February 2013.
– When a fresh meat is first on the ingredient list, there should be an animal protein meal in a supporting role to augment the total animal protein in the diet. Fresh (or frozen) meat contains a lot of water, and water is heavy, so if a fresh meat is first on the list, another source of animal protein should be listed in the top three or so ingredients.
– Whole vegetables, fruits, and grains. Fresh, unprocessed food ingredients contain nutrients in all their natural, complex glory, with their fragile vitamins, enzymes, and antioxidants intact. Don’t be alarmed by one or two food “fractions” (a by-product or part of an ingredient, like tomato pomace or rice bran), especially if they are low on the ingredients list. But it’s less than ideal if there are several fractions present in the food, and/or they appear high on the ingredients list.
– A “best by” date that’s at least six months away. A best by date that’s 10 or 11 months away is ideal; it means the food was made very recently. Note: Foods made with synthetic preservatives (BHA, BHT, ethoxyquin) may have a “best by” date that is as much as two years past the date of manufacture.
Avoid These Traits
The following are things you don’t want to see in the ingredients.
– Meat by-products or poultry by-products. Higher-value ingredients are processed and stored more carefully (kept clean and cold) than lower-cost ingredients (such as by-products) by meat processors.
– A “generic” fat source such as “animal fat.” This can literally be any fat of animal origin, including used restaurant grease. “Poultry” fat is not quite as suspect as “animal fat,” but “chicken fat” or “duck fat” is better (and traceable).
– Added sweeteners. Dogs, like humans, enjoy the taste of sweet foods. Sweeteners effectively persuade many dogs to eat foods comprised mainly of grain fragments (and containing little healthy animal protein).
– Artificial colors, flavors, or preservatives(i.e., BHA, BHT, ethoxyquin). The color of the food doesn’t matter to your dog. And it should be flavored well enough to be enticing with healthy meats and fats. Natural preservatives, such as tocopherols (vitamin E), vitamin C, and rosemary extract, can be used instead. Note that natural preservatives do not preserve foods as long as artificial preservatives, so owners should always check the “best by” date on the label and look for relatively fresh products.
Good examples: WDJ’s “Approved Dry Foods” We’ve used the criteria above to assess the product lines of the following companies, representing hundreds of different dry dog foods. All of the products listed below meet our basic selection criteria for top-quality foods.
We’ve listed the first six ingredients and the minimum percentages of protein and fat from a representative product from each company.
Please note that the products are NOT rated or ranked; they are listed alphabetically by COMPANY. So, for example, if you are looking for Origen, look under its maker, Champion Pet Foods.
Adjust As Necessary
You may have been told that it’s bad to switch foods, or you may have had a bad experience when your dog ate something different and erupted in gas or diarrhea. With most dogs, the more you change foods, the more robust and capable their digestion becomes. We suggest switching foods every few months (or even more frequently; we switch our dogs’ food with every bag). Switching foods frequently also helps prevent the development of allergies, and helps provide nutritional “balance over time.” If your dog ate the same food for months and years, the nutrient levels – particularly the mineral levels – become literally entrenched in your dog’s body. This can be particularly harmful if the food you feed contains excessive or insufficient levels of certain vitamins or minerals.
Finally, watch your dog! Let her tell you how the new food works for her. Keep track of what foods you’ve tried (when the bag is empty, we cut out the ingredients panel and tape it to the calendar). This way, you can continue to make adjustments and improvements in your dog’s diet – and, we hope, huge improvements in her physical condition, skin and coat, and overall energy level.
Jennifer Mieuli Jameson, founder of Loup Garou, a San Francisco group that rescues black and dark-colored companion animals, went to law school, so she understands that there are always two (and usually more) sides to a story. Jameson respects the validity of the debate over early spay/neuter. And there have been rare cases when she has adopted out an unaltered animal who was too small or weak to undergo spay/neuter– though she retained legal ownership until proof of surgery was provided. But when it comes to the hard work she does day in and day out, driving all over northern California to pull at-risk animals out of shelters with little foot traffic and dim prospects of adoption, Jameson says there is no room for nuance.
“I’m a rescuer, so I’m not objective,” she says honestly. “The main thing in our lives is always going to be population control. A dog that’s spayed early may have a problem or two down the line, but that is a dog that’s not going to have puppies, and that is what we as rescuers are charged with. For good or bad, right or wrong, I’m okay with that.”
And so are many other people who work or volunteer in shelters or rescue groups, or who are committed to adopting only dogs from rescue; while there might be health risks associated with early spay/neuter, they are unlikely to abandon any helpful strategy in curbing overpopulation.
Kristen Head of Westville, New Jersey, adopted her collie/shepherd-mix from a shelter when he was three months old and already neutered. Delaying spay/neuter “is some-thing that I definitely have read and thought about, but with Kobe there was no option, because the shelter wouldn’t adopt any dog who wasn’t altered,” she says. “I would prefer the option of having the spay/neuter conversation with my vet before
I did it, but I definitely would always rescue” – even if it meant not having the option of delaying or foregoing sterilization surgery.
An article that discusses the health effects of spay/neuter surgery appears In the February issue of WDJ. It’s a topic that’s overdue for discussion in WDJ, but one that can get people upset, for different reasons.
From the perspective of those of us involved with shelters or rescue, any discussion of delaying or foregoing sterilization for all but the best individual dogs from impeccable bloodlines is practically verboten. Some of these people verbally attack anyone who questions the wisdom of pediatric spay/neuter, and insult anyone with an intact male dog who is not a conformational and behavioral paragon of his breed standard.
I understand the rancor. When you have years and years of first-person experience with trying to find homes for countless waves of unwanted dogs and puppies – or you’ve seen the barrels full of euthanized pets in a shelter freezer, waiting for pickup by the disposal truck – any dog-keeping practice that could possibly result in “accidental” litters of puppies seems obscene.
From the perspective of people who are dedicated to optimizing the health of their own dogs, though, it’s a compelling topic. There is no question that the sex-related hormones produced in the unaltered adolescent dog has multiple influences on his or her growing body, and some speculate, brain. What is an open question, however, is whether the benefits of allowing a dog to develop into young adulthood, and perhaps beyond, are worth the risks; there are a number of conditions that affect intact dogs but can be entirely prevented by early spay/neuter surgery.
But keeping an intact dog, even just through the first year, is not something that should be undertaken casually. In the article, author Denise Flaim, herself the breeder of multiple generations of holistically raised Rhodesian Ridgebacks, also discusses the challenges of the responsible management of intact males and females. It’s not easy – and people who have never done it before will be surprised at how different it is from living with altered animals.
The article discusses the benefits and risks of early alteration of male and female dogs, later alteration, and foregoing spay/neuter surgery altogether. We’ll be very interested in hearing your responses to the article.
Sixteen years ago, when Whole Dog Journal first assessed the “premium” segment of the dry dog food market, we didn’t find many products that met our selection criteria (click here for this year’s “Whole Dog Journal’s 2013 Dry Dog Food Review“). In 1998,the companies that made dog foods that we had considered to be the highest quality were small and not well known. The vast majority of dog foods on the market contained abominable ingredients (such as “meat and bone meal” and “animal fat”) and the companies that produced them were not very consumer-friendly. Even the top dog food manufacturers that offered the highest-quality products on the market were reticent about their ingredient sources and manufacturing locations.
That was then; this is now.
Today, the segment of the top quality dog food market commonly referred by the pet food industry as (variably) natural, holistic, or super premium (none of those being legal definitions) has experienced absolutely explosive growth. The entire pet food market has grown, but the performance of the type of products that meet our selection criteria has been remarkable.
“Consumer demand” gets the credit for these recent improvements in formulas at larger-scale pet food makers. After years of defending their ingredients, formulas, and products, the smart pet food companies have found ways to offer products with the kind of ingredients that discerning pet owners want to see on the label. It’s doubly smart, because these changes actually give them a leg up on their competition, even if they are new to the “super premium” niche; it helped them gain a spot on this year’s “Approved Dry Dog Foods” list.
Identifying a top-quality dog food is not that difficult; I’m going to tell you how to do that in this issue of Whole Dog Journal. But it may be difficult to find these top quality foods if you live far from an urban center or an independent pet supply store run by someone with more than a passing interest in canine nutrition. It may be even more difficult to afford some of these foods; quality costs more. But it shouldn’t be at all hard to see the improvements in your dog’s health if you’ve been feeding a low-quality dog food and make the switch to products of this quality. We have some suggestions if you are considering making a switch in your dog’s diet.
– Whenever possible, shop at well-trafficked independent pet supply stores. The staff and/or management is usually far more helpful and knowledgeable about products that would be best for your dog at your budget. Next best: chain pet specialty stores.
– If you wear glasses to read fine print, bring ’em! You are going to study the label of each product in your price range for the following:
– Ingredients panel (where the ingredients are listed in descending order of weight in the product).
– Guaranteed analysis (which lists the minimum amounts of protein and fat and the maximum amounts of fiber and moisture, and sometimes, other nutrients). You need to know how much protein and fat your dog’s food at home contains, and whether he should get more or less. If you’ve been feeding a low-quality dog food with, say, 19% protein and 8% fat, you don’t want to switch overnight to a sled-dog fuel with 40% protein and 28% fat.
– “Best by” date/code (and sometimes, the date of production, too – it’s ideal to have both listed). Look for the freshest food possible, with the “best by” date at least 6 months away.
The following are desired traits – things you want to see on the label.
Lots of animal protein at the top of the ingredients list. Ingredients are listed by weight, so you want to see a lot of top quality animal protein at the top of the list; the first ingredient should be a “named” animal protein source (see next bullet).
A named animal protein – chicken, beef, lamb, and so on. “Meat” is an example of a low-quality protein source of dubious origin. Animal protein “meals” should also be from named species (look for “chicken meal” but avoid “meat meal” or “poultry meal”).
When a whole meat is first on the ingredient list, there should be an animal protein meal in a supporting role to augment the total animal protein in the diet. Fresh (or frozen) meat contains a lot of water, and water is heavy, so if a whole meat is first on the list, another source of animal protein should be listed in the top three or so ingredients.
Avoid These Traits
The following are things you don’t want to see in the ingredients.
Meat by-products or poultry by-products. Higher-value ingredients are processed and stored more carefully (kept clean and cold) than lower-cost ingredients (such as by-products) by meat processors.
A “generic” fat source such as “animal fat.” This can literally be any fat of animal origin, including used restaurant grease. “Poultry” fat is not quite as suspect as “animal fat,” but “chicken fat” or “duck fat” is better (and traceable).
Added sweeteners. Dogs, like humans, enjoy the taste of sweet foods. Sweeteners effectively persuade many dogs to eat foods comprised mainly of grain fragments (and containing little healthy animal protein).
Artificial colors, flavors, or preservatives (i.e., BHA, BHT, ethoxyquin). The color of the food doesn’t matter to your dog. And it should be flavored well enough to be enticing with healthy meats and fats. Natural preservatives, such as tocopherols (vitamin E), vitamin C, and rosemary extract, can be used instead. Note that natural preservatives do not preserve foods as long as artificial preservatives, so owners should always check the “best by” date on the label and look for relatively fresh products.
Adjust As Necessary
You may have been told that it’s bad to switch dog foods, or you may have had a bad experience when your dog ate something different and erupted in gas or diarrhea. With most dogs, the more you change foods, the more robust and capable their digestion becomes. We suggest switching foods every few months (or even more frequently; we switch our dogs’ food with every bag). Switching foods frequently also helps prevent the development of allergies, and helps provide nutritional “balance over time.” If your dog ate the same food for months and years, the nutrient levels – particularly the mineral levels – become literally entrenched in your dog’s body. This can be particularly harmful if the food you feed contains excessive or insufficient levels of certain vitamins or minerals.
Finally, watch your dog! Let her tell you how the new food works for her. Keep track of what foods you’ve tried (when the bag is empty, we cut out the ingredients panel and tape it to a calendar). This way, you can continue to make adjustments and improvements in your dog’s diet – and, we hope, huge improvements in her physical condition, skin and coat, and overall energy level.
To learn more about the “mass market” pet food makers that are now offering super-premium formulas, subscribe to Whole Dog Journal today. You will then have access to premium subscriber-only content and the full version of this article.
The subscriber-only version of this article also includes a discussion of the changes in the pet food industry that have made it possible for a mass market food manufacturer to offer these high-end and mainstream-quality products.
Like any old fight, it’s hard to recall all the details. Suffice to say that, many years ago, when we agreed to make it a convention to publish a review of dry dog foods every February, my boss (publisher of WDJ) and I argued for hours about whether or not I had to prepare a list of “approved foods” to accompany the article. It’s become the number one feature in WDJ that readers cite as their reason for subscribing, so it turns out that my boss wins the argument. But I hate the list. I really, really haaaaaate it. Why? Let me describe my top four reasons.
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1.Because I would rather teach people to fish than give them a fish. That is, I would rather people read the article accompanying the list so they understand exactly how we identify the foods we approve of – and can easily determine whether or not the food they buy would earn our approval, and why. My boss’s response: “Nance, I’m sorry to break it to you, but there are a certain number of subscribers who are never, ever going to read the article. They just want the list.”
This whole idea gives me heartburn, but after a few years, I realized he was right. For months after the publication of each article, in which I explain exactly why the products that are on “the list” are there, I receive letters that ask why foods A, B, and C are on the list, and foods X, Y, and Z are not. Since the answers to the questions are present in the article, I have to conclude that my boss is right: some people are readers; some people just want a list.
2.Because the presence of a food on WDJ’s “approved foods” list (or anyone’s list) does not mean it’s “best” for your dog. It’s a starting place, no more. It is one of many products that meet our selection criteria. But it doesn’t mean, and couldn’t possibly mean, that it’s going to suit every dog it’s fed to. If people read the article, they will understand how to identify the attributes of top-quality foods and traits of lesser-quality products, and how to determine whether a particular food is working well for their dog, and what to do if it is not. The latter is just as important as the former.
3.Because lists can never be complete. There are far more foods that meet our selection criteria and would qualify as an “approved food” than we will ever be able to discover and list. There are many more products that would qualify for a “DO NOT BUY” list (if we had one), but it would fill the entire issue. And singling out just a few (as examples) always seems unfair, because the fact is, the majority of foods on the market would meet our criteria for this. By understanding our selection criteria, a reader should be able to easily determine whether a product she sees in a store would qualify for our “approved food” list or a “DO NOT BUY” list.
4.Because stuff happens. The moment a list is published, events take place that render parts of the list incorrect. Companies fold, formulas are changed, manufacturers are switched, recalls occur. And there in print is a list saying WDJ approves of the product.
Here’s how I would love the list to be used – and, in fact, all joking aside, how it’s already used by many subscribers: As a starting place for an owner to find products she’s never seen before; as a comparison tool, to help pet food buyers identify the differences between products at different price points; and as a handy resource list, with contact numbers and manufacturing sites already listed, in case a recall happens and an owner wants to contact the maker of a certain product as quickly as possible.
This year’s list of “approved dry dog foods” can be found later in this months edition.
I’ve had a number of older owners book lessons with me lately—more than half a dozen individuals and couples in their 70s and even 80s, all wanting some training help with their new dogs or puppies.