Subscribe

The best in health, wellness, and positive training from America’s leading dog experts

Home Blog Page 240

Sniff This; You’ll Feel Better

By
Lisa Rodier
-
0
K9 nose work is a fun and simple scent game for dogs.

Shelter volunteer Katherine Kekel stood at the end of a long hallway and struggled to keep a grip on Tia, a pit bull-mix, as the dog strained at her harness. Unable to contain the dog any longer, Katherine let go. The well-muscled dog sprinted down the hallway, put on the brakes, and made a sharp right turn into a small room. The hunt was on! Tia was playing K9 Nose Work® at the Cherokee County Animal Shelter (CCAS) in Canton, Georgia. Her prey? A cotton swab scented with birch essential oil.

photo by Heidi Okuhara

K9 Nose Work (K9NW™), a fun search and scenting activity that thousands of dogs and their people have discovered over the past few years, has increasingly nosed its way into animal shelters. An enrichment game that allows a dog to use his nose to “hunt,” K9NW has helped transform many shelter dogs who were out-of-control and unsure how to interact appropriately with people, into dogs who learn to work independently and possess much improved people skills.

Permission to sniff
Jill Marie O’Brien, one of the co-founders of the activity and presenter of “K9 Nose Work for Shelter Dogs” workshops, started experimenting with K9NW concepts several years ago when she was Director of Animal Behavior and Training Services at a shelter in southern California. She soon realized that the game was a relatively easy and low-cost way to engage dogs away from their kennels; it requires just food treats and cardboard boxes. At a minimum, she knew the game would give shelter dogs something engaging and enjoyable to do with their time.

“The shelter is such an incredibly stressful and limiting environment for dogs, even in those facilities that offer what we consider high end accommodations,” O’Brien says. “A dog’s sense of smell is his tool for acquiring information and navigating his environment, and the act of sniffing is a focused activity from which dogs, regardless of energy level and temperament, appear to find benefit. K9NW gives dogs permission to engage in an activity that they are typically not permitted to enjoy (i.e., ‘don’t sniff,’ ‘leave it’). The activity can be used with insecure and timid dogs to build confidence, relieve stress, burn mental and physical energy, and focus the mind.”

K9NW requires a dog to use his mind, body, and respiration – all at once. “In the early phases when the game is being built, the dogs get very tired after just a few minutes of playing,” says O’Brien. “As time goes on and the dog gets more experience and builds conditioning, she is able to handle longer and more challenging searches. What we have seen, anecdotally, is that dogs who play K9NW in the shelter continue to be more relaxed and willing to settle after searching and even after returning to their kennels.”

photo by Heidi Okuhara

Going on instinct
Ron Gaunt, one of three cofounders of the organized sport of K9NW, explains how the activity taps into a dog’s instinctual behavior. “The activity of hunting is instinctual in all dogs, but on the other side of that instinct is survival. ‘How can I survive another moment?’ . . .The success we see with K9NW in terms of behavioral changes comes from the dog’s instinct to solve a problem that he perceives as a problem, not what we see as a problem. In K9NW, we give the dog a ‘problem’ to solve that lets him obtain a reward in a safe manner. This permits the dog to use his survival instincts to control his environment and food.”

Some dogs are in shelters for a reason – whether because the dog has learned that it’s more rewarding to live on his own (runner/stray) or perhaps due to a behavior issue (withdrawn, aggressive/defensive), says Gaunt. He believes that if the shelter allows the dog to begin to solve “problems” with humans in a game, the odds increase that the dog will begin to enjoy interacting with humans and therefore become a better candidate for adoption.

“The big success stories are dogs with unknown backgrounds,” says Gaunt. “The activity of K9NW allows the dog to build trust and begin to re-establish a bond with humans. . . . Overcoming the history and baggage that comes with shelter dogs is where we can see the effects of K9NW pay off the most.”

Sense of smell
The activity not only taps into a dog’s instinctual behavior, it also gives the dog carte blanche to use his sense of smell, arguably his keenest sense. According to veterinary behaviorist Nicholas Dodman, BVMS, MRCVS, about 30 percent of a dog’s brain is comprised of the olfactory lobe – the part of the brain involved in interpreting odors. Compare that to a human, and you’ll find that the percentage of the dog’s brain devoted to analyzing smells is actually 40 times larger than ours. In a NOVA interview, James Walker, former director of the Sensory Research Institute at Florida State University, described the incredible abilities of the canine nose by making an analogy to vision: “What you and I can see at a third of a mile, a dog could see more than 3,000 miles away.”

The activity of “smelling” is hooked into the most primitive areas of an animal’s brain and involves the cortex, according to Randy Kidd, DVM (see “The Canine Sense of Smell,” in the November 2004 issue of WDJ). The cortex is the part of the brain where the highest level of processing occurs.

Dr. Kidd explains, “Once in the olfactory bulb [in the dog’s brain], scents are transported to the frontal cortex for recognition as well as to other regions of the brain that include the brain’s centers for emotions, memory, and pleasure.”

Suffice it to say, the dog’s sense of smell is likely her most underutilized when she’s living in the human world and playing by our rules. K9NW allows the dog to use her nose to her heart’s content!

Urban hunting
In the fall of 2010, I invited Kekel, an aspiring dog trainer, to attend a K9NW workshop I was hosting outside Atlanta. I’d already been involved with the activity for close to a year, and had seen how much dogs enjoyed playing the game and how positively it affected them. Kekel was hooked, and both of us, as volunteers, teamed up to play the game with dogs at CCAS.

The premise behind the game, as Gaunt described, is to allow the dog to tap into his natural desire to hunt. Through the use of boxes to capture and hold scent and high-value food (the “prey”), along with little to no human intervention, we build focus and motivation in the dog to search.

Two concepts are critical to the game:
The dog is allowed to independently search the boxes for treats.
The dog “self-rewards” when he finds them.

photo by Heidi Okuhara

Doing so allows the dog to discover, on his own, his inner hunter. This approach is in contrast to teaching the dog a targeting behavior (i.e., a trained alert behavior to a particular odor) first, which creates further reliance on the human. Instead, with time, patience, and little to no obvious direction from us, the dogs learn to focus on the game and become efficient, methodical hunters and along the way, gain confidence, focus, and the ability to interact with human beings in a positive manner. As the dog progresses and becomes more focused and motivated, we can introduce a particular scent or “odor” to the game.

Basic Ingredients
Any dog can participate in K9NW, even those who are mobility impaired, blind, or deaf. When playing, we take into account the dog’s breed, history, and temperament, as these factors will impact how he approaches the game. Across the board, when I talked with individuals who engage shelter dogs in K9NW, dogs selected to play are often withdrawn, shy, anxious, showing signs of stress or deterioration, and/or longer-term residents.

Often, very active dogs who require extra stimulation are good candidates, too. Certified Nose Work Instructor (CNWI) Karen Reilly, CPDT-KSA, concurs. Reilly started a K9NW program at the SPCA of Westchester, Inc. in Briarcliff Manor, New York, in 2010. “The dogs we work are often dogs who did not get out that day or for a few days. We also use dogs who have started to deteriorate in the shelter setting, and those who are timid. Many of them are ‘pitties’.”

photo by Heidi Okuhara

Any space can be utilized for nose work training. As is the case in the majority of shelters, space is at a premium at the shelter where I volunteer in Canton, Georgia. We found a home in a small “meet and greet” room, roughly 8 x 12 feet. With the advanced dogs, we work outdoors, inside the senior center next door, and across the street at a picnic pavilion. While it’s best to start the game indoors so that the dogs can work off-leash and in a less-distracting environment, it’s possible to start outside, on-leash, as well; the game might be a little more challenging there, but the dogs adapt.

In Chatsworth, California, Heidi Okuhara started an all-volunteer K9NW program at West Valley Animal Shelter. When the weather is nice, volunteers there work dogs on a covered walkway; when the weather is bad or windy, they’re able to work indoors in a small section of a community room.

The primary consideration for space is that the search area is away from other dogs and kennel runs. Because K9NW taps into a dog’s hunt drive, any other dog in the immediate area can be viewed as competition to the hunter. Such a threat can cause the working dog to lose focus and become anxious; the antithesis to what K9NW is all about. In general, with a dog just starting out, the fewer distractions, the better, particularly for the benefit of dogs who are easily distracted, reactive, or anxious.

As a Certified Nose Work Instructor (CNWI), my preference when teaching classes is to co-teach with another individual, in order to facilitate sharing ideas as well as to have a second set of eyes and hands for assessing dogs and hiding the food treats or odors. In the shelter environment, handlers should always pair up – first and foremost from a safety perspective, but also to be able to help one another work through challenging situations, such as with fearful dogs who are reluctant to get started.

Ideally, your team will include someone who has K9 Nose Work experience – either a CNWI or an Associate Nose Work Instructor (ANWI), or someone who has been to a K9NW workshop or class with a CNWI. For example, Heidi Okuhara, a long-time dog enthusiast and competitor, is not a certified instructor, but has taken classes with K9NW co-founders Jill Marie O’Brien and Amy Herot.

Photo by Bill Cook

We start the game with a few plain old cardboard boxes, free and readily available from the recycling bin or virtually any store. The second item required is high-value food, cut up into small pieces; though some dogs will work for a toy reward, in the shelter environment, food is often a more efficient choice. I’d usually provide a stinky delicacy such as liverwurst or garlic chicken.

Once in a great while, I encounter a dog to whom human food is so foreign that she spits it out in favor of something really “high value” like “Moist & Meaty Burger” dog food. Chemical-filled dog food may not be high-value to us, but what matters is whether it’s high value for her. Another memorable dog offered an odd reaction to a novel food: The smell of bleu cheese prompted him to roll in it; I suppose it smelled so deliciously foul that he couldn’t resist!

Not required, but very helpful, is a video camera (or cellphone video). I videotape all of the dogs’ runs so that we can track their progress from week to week; this practice also gives us the ability to post short video clips of the dogs working with their bios on the shelter website. It’s an intriguing enough activity that potential adopters might take a second look!

How to start
At CCAS (the shelter where I volunteer), during a dog’s first session we run him on leash. I test the treat to see if the dog is willing to eat it; if he does, I put a treat in a cardboard box – often a low box with the flaps folded down to start – and see if he will eat that. If he is up to that challenge, we load that box (a dedicated food box) with several small bits of food, and place it on the floor along with a few other boxes. Often, at that point, the dog’s interest is sufficiently piqued that he strains at the leash and is ready to move into the search area to independently search the boxes for treats, and reward himself (by eating them) when found.

For beginning dogs, we often don’t “re-start” the dog between runs; we just keep loading a box (or a few boxes in some cases) while the dog searches the floor. Once he seems to really engage with us in the activity, we remove the leash for searches; in between searches, we re-leash the dog and remove him from the search area.

What to do for the dog who isn’t comfortable engaging with humans? In the shelter, this happens frequently. In one case, a dog was so shy and hesitant that she could not bring herself to try the lovely garlic chicken I’d prepared. I baited the floor with food, and my fellow volunteer Kekel and I chatted and ignored her. After close to 10 minutes, she began eating the food and subsequently, searching boxes.

Another dog, a hound-mix, was so high-strung that I’m sure he was seeing double as he entered the room and ricocheted off the sofa and walls. Even with all his frenetic activity, he couldn’t muster the courage to put his head in a box. We made it even easier for him; we put the food treats on a completely flat piece of cardboard, and he finally slowed down long enough to eat the treats and look for more. The change in his behavior from week one to two to three was impressive! We commonly see amazing progress in this high-reward, low-stress activity with just about every dog.

For dogs who remain at the shelter and come back week after week to play, we do several things to make the game more challenging. For example, we put  the search boxes on other things in the room (such as a coffee-table or sofa), turn the boxes on their sides, and make “puzzles” with the boxes (by positioning other boxes around the one with the food in it). We also might add a lot more boxes in the room, increasing the size of the search area; introduce other items to the room (such as a broom, bucket, traffic cone, or vacuum), so the dogs have to work around other objects or obstacles in their search; take the game outside; or take it to a new environment. But the beauty of K9NW is that even if all we do is to put out five to seven boxes week after week, the dogs still have a blast.

Additional pointers
Do dogs try to solicit treats from us or jump up on us? Yes, but we just ignore those behaviors. Also, the dogs quickly figure out that they are never rewarded directly from the handler (except for the very first time I give them treats, trying to discover one they like enough to search for). They learn quickly that the only time they ever get “payment” (food rewards) is when they self-reward from a cardboard box.
Since they are initially on-leash, the dogs are prevented from leaving the search area. For dogs who temporarily lose interest, some movement from me, or a light toss of a box, is often enough to re-engage them in the search.

Prior to or during searches, the dogs aren’t given any verbal cues, not even “Off” if they jump up (we simply turn away), nor are they expected to “Stay,” “Sit” or “Look” before being released. “Leave it” is not in our vocabulary during a search! I like to explain this by saying that the dog has the keys to the car and he’s driving – a concept that seemingly blows many dogs’ minds.

I’ve noticed that this is when the dog makes huge gains in confidence. He learns that in this game, he is the master; he gets to “hunt” independently and he, alone, finds and captures his “prey.” He also works without verbal direction or interference from humans; we neither tell him what to do nor what not to do. He’s in charge. And as Amy Herot likes to say, it’s as if the dog suddenly realizes, “I’ve got this! I can do it!”

One of the mantras of K9NW is “it depends on the dog.” Particularly when playing the game with shelter dogs in such an unusual environment, we need to be flexible, responsive to the dog, and ready to adapt the game so that she can be successful. This might mean baiting the floor with food, using a flat box, removing flaps from boxes, or other techniques that perhaps we wouldn’t use in a typical K9NW class environment with “pet” dogs.

Ideally, dogs should be crated between nose work sessions (or “runs”) to allow some down time and time for processing. At my shelter, we did not have the ability to do this, so dogs were either taken from the room briefly after a run, or, especially when starting out, simply held in the room from run to run.

Once a dog understands the game well and has learned to search for the food in the face of increasingly distracting environments and situations, we introduce a new “prey.” Dogs are encouraged to search for a new source of “odor” (including birch, anise, and clove essential oils), which is done initially by pairing primary reward with the odor.

After nose work
Frequently, dogs at the shelter who have been there for weeks (if not months) get adopted right after playing K9NW with us for just one or two sessions. Rarely, if ever, does the adoption happen because the adopters specifically want a K9NW dog; I think it happens because playing the game has changed the dog’s behavior; she  exhibits a calmer demeanor in the kennel, and has higher confidence with people, helping her “show” better.

Such was the case with Tia, the rocket dog I described at the beginning of this article. She was one of our first dogs to do nose work, and one of our strongest. Tia was a plain brown, unluckily non-descript pit-mix who had been at the shelter for about eight months when we began playing. She caught on quickly and loved the game. My fellow shelter volunteer Katherine Kekel claimed that Tia knew it was K9NW day (always a Tuesday at 11 am) long before I’d even show up.

After close to two months of weekly practice, we introduced Tia to birch odor, a step not too many shelter dogs make because of the time required to get there. Not long after, she was adopted. We’d posted her K9NW videos along with her bio, and although her adopter didn’t continue with the game, her video helped attract him to her!

After the shelter
As K9NW cofounder Ron Gaunt notes, ideally adopters would continue playing the game with their new dogs, or, at the very least, engage in training to continue to cement the bond they have begun to build with humans.

For the dogs and people who get hooked on the game, the sky is the limit. Dogs can be trained to search interior and exterior environments, vehicles and “containers” such as luggage. For the competition-minded, the National Association of Canine Scent Work (NACSW), the organization that sets the standards governing the sport of K9NW, offers trials of varying levels. This year the NACSW will be hosting their first-ever National Invitational in California.

I’d be lying if I said that K9NW saved every dog I worked with at my shelter. The sad reality is that by the time we begin working with some dogs, the shelter environment is taking its toll. If behavioral issues emerge or intensify, I take what little comfort I can in knowing that our sessions give the dog a temporary reprieve from stress, and that she takes pleasure in being allowed to use her nose the way she was born to do.

Lisa Rodier is a freelance writer from Alpharetta, Georgia where she lives with her very patient husband and almost one year old Bouvier, Atle. She is a Certified Nose Work Instructor, teaches K9 Nose Work classes, and is hooked on the sport.

Joyce Biethan, MPT, CPDT-KA, CNWI, recently introduced K9NW to the Oregon Humane Society in Portland, Oregon, recognizing the enrichment value of the activity for dogs living in a shelter environment. One of her K9NW students, Kathy Lillis, was a volunteer at the shelter, and paved the way for Biethan.

photo by Heidi Okuhara

Biethan also recommended K9NW classes to the Humane Society of Southwest Washington after the shelter contacted her about teaching Pet Manners classes. Her approach is a win-win; there, she teaches a six-week class that combines dog owners from the community who work their own dogs and pay to attend class, shelter volunteers who work their own dogs and pay a discounted rate, and volunteers who work with shelter dogs for free.

Biethan’s group also targets highly stressed, very active, and long-term shelter residents as candidates to play the game. Although still somewhat new, the shelter K9NW program seems to be helping with adoption rates, with Biethan estimating that about 75 percent of dogs who play the game are adopted within a few weeks of becoming involved. That, for her, is success!

Heidi Okuhara, a volunteer at West Valley Animal Shelter (one of six Los Angeles shelters) knew that K9NW would be a great enrichment activity for the shelter’s dogs, and an opportunity for fearful, shy, reactive, and long-term resident dogs to get some attention. She got the green light from shelter management in late 2010 to start up an all-volunteer-run program.

Okuhara works primarily with small, fearful or shy dogs; dogs who have been at the shelter for a long time; and dogs who otherwise need positive stimulation. “Because we’re working with smaller, fearful dogs, I keep the box tops folded down so the dog doesn’t have to work as hard to get to the food container when we start. Some dogs are too short to put their heads in the boxes, even though the boxes aren’t very tall. Many of the dogs don’t want to put their heads into the box, even if they want the treats. We use different strategies to make it easier for the dog to start off right if it’s having a problem working with the boxes.”

Small dogs at Okuhara’s shelter are usually housed in groups of four to five per kennel. She notes, “The more shy the dog is, the less likely she is to be noticed. K9NW is a great activity because fearful dogs typically become more confident, are more likely to go to the front of the kennel when visitors come by, and are more outgoing and friendly when potential adopters meet with them.

“Dogs who ‘slink around’ stand taller. A dog we’re working with now is a great example. Week one, she slinked and would lie down as we walked her from her kennel to the training area. Week two, she did a lot less slinking and didn’t stop or lie down on the way to the training area,” says Okuhara.

Karen Reilly, CPDT-KSA, CNWI, along with Kathe Baxter, KPA, CPDT-KA, CNWI, and Alison Waszmerm, CTC, introduced K9NW to the SPCA of Westchester in the fall of 2010. Today, Reilly works alongside shelter trainer Dot Baisly, MS, CPDT-KA, and other volunteers. As is typical with shelter K9NW, Reilly reports that it can take some dogs a couple of sessions to relax and play the game, although, “Most of our high drive dogs (‘pitties’) seem to just be naturals at it and come out hunting. We have had a few who were shy or timid and have seen them progress to being less suspicious, willing to reach a box under a chair, or push a box off the top of the hide box to gain access to the reward. Actually, I have a harder time making challenges for those who are really into it!”

Baisly has observed that K9NW dogs, in general, seem more relaxed the day after they work in K9NW. And all of us who play the game with shelter dogs have at least one favorite story, typically involving a reticent or out-of-control dog, who, with time, really shines at the game.
For Reilly, one dog who stands out was a very shy/fearful hound-mix. “When we brought him into the room, he headed straight for the door, not showing interest in the boxes, and doing so on all three passes for the first round. On his second round [dogs typically are taken out of the search room between rounds to ‘meditate’], he first moved quickly toward the door again, but then noticed the boxes and turned to hunt. What a thrill!”

Reilly goes on to say that he came out “ready to hunt” on the last round and – call it K9NW magic – he was adopted before they could even do a second session of K9NW with him. In Baisly’s opinion, the dog’s exposure to nose work helped his kennel presentation.
Reilly also worked with the first two shelter dogs to pass an “Odor Recognition Test” (ORT) under the newly minted Shelter Dog Registration. Belle and Cricket, pit bulls whom Reilly and her team trained in K9NW since 2010, passed their birch ORTs in April 2011 and were subsequently adopted.

Fitness Together

By
Mardi Richmond, CPDT-KA
-
0

I confess: I have a hard time fitting in enough exercise for myself and my dog. Nothing earth-shattering about this admission; I think not getting enough exercise is a universal condition. Even though my dog and I walk daily, life and age just keep creeping up, making it harder and harder for me to stay fit. And, my high-energy herding dog seems to always need just a little more in the way of activity than I have time and energy to provide.

You can imagine how I feel if I try to sneak out of the house and head off to the gym without her. That look! You probably know the one: perked up ears, soft eyes, and the head tilt that asks, “Can’t I please come?” Of course, just heading out for a regular walk isn’t really the answer either; dog walks are not always the best exercise. On our daily walks, my dog enjoys sniffing and checking p-mail. We both stop and talk to neighbors. I admire the gardens while she checks out the squirrels. She probably fares a little better than I do exercise-wise because she inevitably talks me into chucking the ball at the park or snapping the leash off for a little wave-chasing at the beach. But both of us could use more.

So when I recently heard about a movement to turn dog walks into a more gym-like workout, I thought, what a great idea!

Dogs Make Great Personal Trainers!

This is not news for those who hike or run with their dogs. But you don’t have to be a serious athlete to gain the benefit of dog as personal trainer. Dogs can be terrific fitness partners for all activity levels. They seldom cancel last minute, and are not likely to let you cancel either. Dogs thrive on routine, so if you get distracted or procrastinate, your dog will likely remind you when it is time to get moving.

For both of you, working out together may bring significant health benefits such as a lower risk of heart disease, diabetes, arthritis, and other chronic conditions. You may sleep better, your weight may improve, and your stress levels may go down. The extra activity and mental stimulation may also help your dog relax and behave better, too.

 

Since you won’t be splitting your energy between the gym and your dog, workout walks may lead to more together time, more activity overall for your dog, and greater opportunities for practicing basic skills.

Get your Dog Involved in Workouts

 

One of the great things about the workout walk is that it really doesn’t take a lot of training for your dog. However, there are a few basics that will help you get the most from your exercise time together.

If your dog has enjoyed leisurely walks, complete with lots of stopping and sniffing, you can insure the success of your workout by taking the time to teach your dog that the workout walk is a different activity. It may take your dog a few sessions to learn the new rules. Take your time at first and focus on your dog’s skills (instead of on the exercising) and you will both get more out of the workout down the line.

Consider also that some of your walks may be workout walks, but other walks may remain casual, full of sniffing and exploring. How will your dog know which is which?

In our household, we have found it helpful to use a cue to let our dog know which type of walk is afoot. We may take a sniffing and potty walk in the morning, and a workout walk in the afternoon, and some of our walks are a combo of both. If we say, “Your choice!” and head out in a leisurely fashion, our dog knows she can weigh in on which path we follow and sniff and explore to her heart’s content. If we say, “Let’s walk!” and step off at a fast stride and with purpose, she knows we will be moving quickly, and the sniffing will need to wait until we take a break. By cueing our dog at the start of the walk, or when we are switching walking modes within a walk, we help her understand what is expected.

dog exercising

Learn to Move Together

A great skill for a dog to attain for a workout walk is the ability to move in tandem with you. When we are out for a stroll with our dogs, a lot of us are pretty happy with them walking in front, behind, or even off to the side as long as the leash is loose and they are not pulling us off our feet. However, when you are walking, jogging, or running with your dog for a workout, having him walk close to you in the “shoulder at knee” heel position can be a great advantage. Your dog can see where you are going and can move, turn, or change speeds more easily. The heel position sets you up to move as one. It also helps reduce the possibility of tripping over each other.

If your dog doesn’t know this behavior, you will need to teach it to him before you head out on your exercise walks. Start in a quiet environment where your dog will not be tempted by great smells or other distractions. Teach your dog where you would like him to be by stepping out ahead of your dog and encouraging him to follow. As your dog catches up, click and treat when his shoulder is in line with your leg. Then, while he is focused on the treat, quickly step off again and repeat. Once your dog gets the idea, add in a few steps before you click and treat.

Expect that your dog will have a harder time once you start to walk together away from your low distraction environment. Great smells on a walk, for example, may be some of the toughest distractions your dog will have to deal with. Try keeping the leash a little shorter than you might normally to prevent your dog digging into a great smell or moving out ahead. But if your dog does move ahead of you, simply back up or turn the other direction (with a very gentle pressure on the leash) until your dog returns to your side, then click and treat and move forward again. If your dog lags behind, make a fun or exciting noise to get his attention, then click and treat when he catches up.

Once your dog has the idea, try using the great smells on a walk as the reward. Ask your dog to “Let’s walk,” and move together quickly (travel just a few feet for a novice dogs and as much as a few blocks for experienced dogs). Then give the cue to “Go sniff!” as a reward.

Tip:If your dog doesn’t have a lot of experience moving quickly or running with you, he or she may, at first, get overexcited and jump up or playfully grab at you when you move quickly – especially young dogs and herding dogs! To eliminate this problem from the start, at first take just one or two quick steps, click (or use another “reward marker” such as the word “Yes!”) while your dog’s feet are on the ground, and follow by giving him a treat low – at his chest height. Gradually add in more steps and faster speeds as your dog gets the concept of moving with you without jumping up.

Stay for the Stretch!

Another important skill for your dog to have for workout walks is the ability to wait in one spot while you do an activity without him (for example, a down stay while you do a few quick calf-stretches or knee lifts). Pick a position your dog will find comfortable in most situations (it can be a stand, sit or down) and practice at home first while you do exercise-like behaviors.

For example, if the position you choose is a sit, have your dog sit while you raise your arms over your head, bend over and touch your toes, or jump up and down. Gradually build up your dog’s ability to wait quietly while you do several activities over the course of one to two minutes. Don’t expect, when you are on your workout walks, that your dog will hold a position in public for more than a minute or two. It is much harder out in the world than at home! Besides, you’ll both be happier if your dog is moving more than staying.

Put the Work Into the Workout

Walking is one of the best forms of exercise there is, but for workout walks to be a fitness building experience, you will need to do more than just a regular walk at your regular pace. As with any workout, aiming for a variety of aerobic activity, some strength building, and some flexibility exercises will give you a well-rounded fitness routine.

Keep in mind that most health experts recommend that we exercise at a moderate intensity. What does that mean? For the human half of the team, a good rule of thumb is that if you can talk while you walk, you are moving at about the right pace. However, each of us is an individual, so you may want to talk with your health care provider or fitness trainer to develop your personal goals.

There are several strategies for turning a basic dog walk into a fitness-building workout. A great idea is to vary your approach and try for one or more of the below suggestions on different days of the week.

Step up the pace. Perhaps this is obvious – but it is also one of the best strategies for building fitness. When you head out for a walk, warm up for the first 5 to 10 minutes, and then challenge yourself to move at a quicker pace than you normally would.

Go long. Increasing distance is another great strategy. Make some days your long walk days, and increase your normal distance or time.

Try intervals. Interval training is when you take small chunks of time – say 30 seconds to several minutes – and work out at a higher intensity, followed by a rest cycle. So, for example, on a walk, you could walk fast or even jog for one block getting your heart rate up, and the next two blocks walk at a normal speed to let your heart rate recover (go back to normal).

Climb to new heights. Walking hills (assuming your knees and back can handle it!) are a great way to add difficulty to your workout and also some strength training for your legs.

Throw in some strength training and stretching. While out on your walk, at a park or other quiet location, give your dog a sniff break or ask for a stay while you do some calisthenics, stretching or strength building exercises. Try squats, lunges, calf-raises. Add in some vertical push-ups off of a building or pole and some leg-lifts and tricep dips on a park bench for a full body workout.

These are tips that will get both you and your dog moving in a fitness direction, but it may not sound like much fun for your canine pal. In order to make it a positive experience for you both, add in some fun time.

Let’s Play!

Remember the workout walk is for your dog too! It is important to reward dogs – especially when they are just learning about workout walks – but too many treats when your dog is exercising may be counter productive (and might cause a tummy ache!). So consider using very small treats, and instead, adding in more play time. Playtime rewards during a workout walk might include brief games of tug or a short chase game.

In addition, adding play to a workout walk might just increase your fitness! Don’t take a break from exercising while your dog runs in the park, for example; join in the fun. Try the following games to keep you moving and your dog having fun:

Ball racing wind sprints. If your dog loves to chase a ball or toy, don’t just stand there while he runs. You can have your dog wait while you toss the ball, then race together to see who gets there first.

If your dog needs more exercise than you (mine does!), toss the ball in one direction and then instead of standing still waiting for your dog to come back to you, run the other way. When your dog catches up, repeat in the opposite direction. If you aren’t into running, try doing other exercises, such as squats or jumping jacks while your dog chases the ball.

Raise your heart rate Frisbee. Have you ever seen those Frisbee dog demonstrations? If you have, you’ve also seen just how quickly the handlers are moving! You, too, can turn a relaxed game of Frisbee into a heart rate booster.

Try using two flying discs. (The soft type stuff into a fanny pack easily and can be brought out at good times during your workout walk. For the safest and most-throwable discs, see WDJ’s review of flying toys for dogs in the August 2012 issue.) As soon as your dog catches the first, ask for a drop and toss the second. While your dog is racing after the second Frisbee, you race to collect the first. Continue on in this manner until you both collapse into a happy puddle! I guarantee that this game is fun as well as heart-pumping!

Tug for your upper body. If your dog enjoys tug games, consider incorporating them into your workout too. Even a small dog can add some gentle resistance and help with upper body strengthening. You can also try tug-stay-run games to add more movement for you both.

When You Want More Than a Walk…

For many of us, a walking workout offers a simple and easy way to add fitness building into our time with our dogs. But options for getting active with your dog abound. If you and your dog enjoy the outdoors, hiking, skijoring and canoeing are all fun and dog-friendly choices. Into training and dog sports? Agility can be a great workout for both dog and handler. Sprinting around a course will get your heart rate up, and the competitive aspect can be a great fitness motivator.

For a lower-impact sport, musical freestyle can get your body moving. How about canine boot camp classes? In these classes, you and your dog engage in a full hour of fitness together. Or how about Doga, the yoga classes where downward dog takes on a whole new meaning?

However, if (like me), you struggle to get enough exercise, yet you want to add fitness into something you already do every day, the workout walk can’t be beat. It is a fun and interesting way to exercise, and most dogs won’t let you forget when it is time to go out and get active!

Mardi Richmond, MA, CPDT-KA, is a trainer and a professional writer who specializes in health and dog-related topics. She enjoys getting active with her dog Chance, who won’t ever let her hang out on the couch for long.

Beware of Dangerous Dog Laws

By
Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA
-
2

Anyone who has ever been bitten (or owned a dog who has been bitten) by a dog, or owned a dog who bit someone (human or canine) – or even just had a good look into a dog’s mouth! – understands that dogs have the potential to harm others. The vast majority of dogs are not dangerous. But, because of the minority who are, there are hundreds of laws, varying state by state and community by community, that attempt to define what dangerous dogs are, and address the consequences of a “dangerous dog” designation to the dogs’ owners and the dogs themselves.

288

Some of these laws are well-written and appropriately enforced, helping protect the community at large from truly dangerous dogs – laws that impose reasonable restrictions on the care and keeping of those dogs – while giving good dogs (and their owners) caught in bad circumstances a chance to redeem themselves. (See the California statutes, as a good example, in the “A look at one state’s dangerous dog laws” section under the “table of contents.”)

In contrast, poorly crafted laws put good dogs at risk and/or fail to protect anyone from dogs who pose a serious threat to other humans or dogs who cross their paths. Poorly crafted and overzealously enforced laws may unfairly, sometimes arbitrarily, set up dogs to fail and burden their owners with sanctions so onerous that they have no choice but to give up, even euthanize, their dogs.

Do you know what kind of laws govern the area where you and your dogs live? You should. Because whether you and your dog got attacked by a stray dog on the street who had a past history of the same behavior, or your dog accidentally nipped a neighbor’s child who was holding your dog’s tennis ball in the air above your dog’s head, the “dangerous dog” laws in your area might have consequences that range from inconvenient to deadly (such as forced euthanasia for the offending dog).

Experts discuss dangerous dog laws
I interviewed two animal professionals who are familiar with different aspects of dangerous dog laws.

The first is an attorney licensed to practice in Virginia, Maryland, the District of Columbia, and Washington State. Heidi Meinzer has been practicing law since 2000, and began practicing animal law in 2010. Heidi represents companion animal owners, trainers, veterinarians, pet care industry companies, and rescues. In March of 2013 she opened her own law firm in Alexandria, Virginia in order to focus her practice on animal law issues. Heidi says, “I have the greatest second job anyone could ask for, as an assistant dog trainer with Fur-Get Me Not, an award winning dog training facility in Arlington, Virginia.” (See http://meinzerlaw.com and http://petlawblog.com for information about Heidi’s practice.)

Paul Miller is a lifetime animal welfare professional, with more than 30 years of experience working at and with humane societies and animal care and control agencies. (Full disclosure, he is also my husband!) Miller began his animal protection career at the Humane Society of Carroll County (Maryland), did undercover investigative work for the Humane Society of the United States (dogfighting, cockfighting, and livestock transport), and has worked at shelters in Arizona, California, Tennessee, and most recently, back in Maryland. His experience with dangerous dog laws is primarily on the enforcement end, which gives him a different perspective from Meinzer’s.

Q. Heidi, what led you to include a focus on animal law in your law practice?

Meinzer: Five years ago, I adopted a beautiful German Shepherd-mix puppy, Sophie. She struggled during fear periods through puppyhood, and around the time she turned two, our older and steadfast Golden Retriever passed away, leaving Sophie to fend for herself. Sophie began showing reactivity to dogs and strangers, leading me to work with several renowned trainers in the Washington, DC, Metro area. Sophie opened my eyes to the world of dog training and behavior, and introduced me to many wonderful professionals.

At about the same time, local rescues involved in a heartbreaking hoarding case in rural Virginia asked me to help them with their efforts to prosecute the hoarder for animal neglect. All of these circumstances made me realize that I could merge my love of dogs and other animals with my legal profession.

Q. Paul, how did you come to be knowledgeable about dangerous dog laws?

Miller: Thirty years experience in enforcement of animal control laws around the country. Most recently, in my positions as director of Chattanooga’s (Tennessee) municipal animal control program and then as executive director of Washington County’s (Maryland) humane society (with an animal contract), I played a significant role in getting modern dangerous dog laws passed in those two communities.

Q. In general, what do you think of the concept of dangerous dog laws?

Meinzer: When I first became aware of Virginia’s dangerous dog law, my gut reaction was that the law was overly harsh. In addition, some provisions of dangerous dog laws can be very onerous and lead to such a financial burden that some owners agree to the dangerous designation when they may in fact have a winnable case, or may even choose to surrender or euthanize their companions. However, I now believe that well-crafted dangerous dog laws with strong procedural protections can serve to balance the rights of dog bite victims and dog owners.

Miller: Unfortunately these laws are a necessity, due to the many dog owners who fail to socialize, train, and/or properly manage their dogs. Without this valuable tool, which gives us the ability to hold the owner responsible for the actions of the dog, it is likely we would have even more severe attacks on humans and other animals.

Q. Heidi, based on your experience with the laws in your area, what do you think of the enforcement/implementation of dangerous dog laws from a defense attorney perspective?

Meinzer: This really varies by state, and then by each locality within each state. Virginia has a statewide dangerous dog statute that cannot be changed on the local level, so the law itself is uniform across all jurisdictions. That said, enforcement and implementation can and does still vary, within the local jurisdictions in Virginia. By contrast, Maryland localities have considerable discretion with their dangerous dog laws. So the local laws themselves, as well as enforcement and implementation, vary tremendously locality by locality.

In some ways, Virginia’s system is preferable, so that at the very least each locality is governed by a uniform law. However, you lose the benefit of flexibility that you have when a state allows localities to pass their own ordinances. For instance, Washington County, Maryland, passed an ordinance that allows for a “potentially dangerous” designation in which dog owners could “work off” the designation by focusing on training and behavior issues with their dogs. This is something that is missing from Virginia’s statute – but that some creative Virginia prosecutors still accomplish through prosecutorial discretion.

Q. Paul, what, if any, are the negatives about these laws, from an enforcement perspective?

Miller: There are several things:
A lot can depend on the training, experience, and knowledge of the investigating officer in regards to canine and human behavior, so application and enforcement can be uneven, even within the same jurisdiction.

Some of the laws aren’t as well-written as others. Definition of terms such as “provocation” may be poorly worded or absent altogether, which can leave it up to the individual officer’s discretion to define and interpret the law.

Dangerous dog laws tend to be reactive rather than proactive – responding to a problem rather than teaching the owner a better way to handle and train his dog. The owner often gives up the dangerous dog only to acquire another dog, and repeat the mistakes that caused the first one to be designated as dangerous.

It makes the dog the victim, when in reality most were just dogs being dogs. Once a dog is designated as dangerous, most laws do not contain a provision to allow for rehabilitative effort and eventual removal of the designation.

A dangerous dog designation can impact on an owner’s ability to get homeowner’s or renter’s insurance, forcing them to rehome or euthanize the dog.

Q. Heidi, what are the most important things for a dog owner to know about dangerous dog laws?

Meinzer: The consequences of dangerous dog laws are often substantial. During the pendency of the case, your dog may be seized and detained at the local pound. If your dog is deemed dangerous, you may have to keep him muzzled in public, hang signs on your property, register with a statewide dangerous dog statute, make potentially expensive changes to your home environment, carry considerable liability insurance that can be quite costly, and comply with a variety of other requirements.

You may be liable for more than just the consequences of dangerous dog laws. Civil liability to the victim is a totally separate matter. Additionally, other laws – such as leash laws or running at large laws – often come into play.

Circumstances leading up to dangerous dog designations often could have been avoided. Not all dog bites are avoidable. But I have seen several cases that would not have occurred if only, for instance, the owner had kept the dog on a leash in a public area.

Q. Heidi, what are the most important things for a dog owner to know about dangerous dog laws?

Meinzer: The consequences of dangerous dog laws are often substantial. During the pendency of the case, your dog may be seized and detained at the local pound. If your dog is deemed dangerous, you may have to keep him muzzled in public, hang signs on your property, register with a statewide dangerous dog statute, make potentially expensive changes to your home environment, carry considerable liability insurance that can be quite costly, and comply with a variety of other requirements.

You may be liable for more than just the consequences of dangerous dog laws. Civil liability to the victim is a totally separate matter. Additionally, other laws – such as leash laws or running at large laws – often come into play.

Circumstances leading up to dangerous dog designations often could have been avoided. Not all dog bites are avoidable. But I have seen several cases that would not have occurred if only, for instance, the owner had kept the dog on a leash in a public area.

Q. What should an owner do to avoid coming into conflict with local dangerous dog laws?

Meinzer: Be a responsible dog owner, plain and simple. The most common factors in dog bite cases include: (1) dogs who are not neutered; (2) dogs who are chained or tethered; (3) selective breeding; (4) dogs suffering from abuse or neglect; and (5) inadequate socialization, training, and supervision. Consider what these factors mean to you as a dog owner.

Get to know as much about your dog as possible before you adopt – and research all that you can about the breeder, rescue, or shelter where you plan to get your dog. Neuter your dog. Keep your dog on leash any time your dog is not in a fully enclosed area, and do not leave her chained or tethered. Properly socialize and train your dog right away. Proactively get a professional opinion from a good trainer and/or behaviorist about any red flags about your dog’s behavior, and address those issues immediately.

Do everything you can to enrich your dog’s world and foster a positive relationship and bond with her. And always take care when interacting with dogs and people wherever you are, including in your own home. If your dog shows any hesitation when meeting another dog or a person, do not force her to interact. Be your dog’s advocate and kindly tell the person that your dog needs space. As another example, set up supervised play dates with people who you know well and who have dogs who are appropriate playmates for your dog instead of going to places like dog parks where the situation is much less under your control.

Miller: I’d suggest making sure your dogs are well socialized; lack of socialization/fearfulness is one of the most common causes of dog bites. Your dogs should also be trained to respond with appropriate and acceptable behavior at home and in public, and well-managed – kept safely confined at home and on-leash in public (unless in designated off-leash areas). Dogs whose owners respect and obey local animal control ordinances are much less likely to get into trouble.

Q. What do you suggest an owner do if her dog is designated as “dangerous” by a local animal law enforcement agency?

Meinzer: Get professional help right away. Contact an attorney who understands not only the law, but also dog behavior. And contact an experienced trainer who can assess your dog’s behavior and point you in the right direction. Evaluate what actions you can take to ensure the safety of your dog and the public, such as desensitizing your dog to a muzzle and walking your dog with proper equipment such as a double leash system with a martingale collar and a front clip harness. Also consider changes to your home environment – such as adding a second storm door or putting up a visible fence – to ensure that your dog will be safely confined on your property.

All of these changes may help convince local animal control officers to allow you to keep your dog at home pending the outcome of dangerous dog proceedings. If your dog is designated as dangerous at the end of the proceedings, make sure that you understand exactly what is expected of you and comply with those requirements. Depending on the applicable laws, failure to comply often can lead to criminal charges against you and the possible euthanasia of your dog.

Miller: I agree. Seek legal counsel, and have your dog evaluated by a qualified/competent animal behavior professional.

Q. Does society have a realistic or appropriate perspective on dogs who bite?

Meinzer: It seems the pendulum swings drastically in opposite directions regarding dog bites. Some people do not take dog bites and incidents seriously enough. Other times, dog bites are overly dramatized. There’s no doubt that the number of dog bite insurance claims is rising, leading many states to consider dog bite liability and insurance laws in a whole new light. Trainers can take action by educating legislators about dog bites so that new laws will actually serve to reduce the number and severity of dog bites.

Miller: I don’t think so. In general the public has limited knowledge of how to develop good behavior in a dog, and/or how to appropriately change or manage unacceptable or undesirable behaviors. They often don’t even recognize or are in denial about the precursor behaviors that are leading up to the incident that’s going to get their dog (and them) in trouble. In most of the media reports on dog-related fatalities, for example, the dog owner claims the dog had never shown any previous danger signs for aggression. In reality, there were likely lots of signals that just were ignored or not recognized by the owner as warning signs. On the other hand, some people seriously overreact to normal dog behavior – owners get sued for a minor nip that, 30 years ago, no one would have thought twice about.

Q. Anything else you would like to say about dangerous dog laws?

Meinzer: As society evolves, we put more and more pressure and expectations on our dogs. We need to realize that this only increases our responsibilities. Build that bond with your dog, and be your dog’s advocate any time your dog seems to be uncomfortable. Accept your dog for who she is, and don’t set goals and expectations based on what you want. Rather, set goals and expectations based on your dog’s needs and desires.

Miller: Dangerous dog laws and other appropriate animal control ordinances should incorporate, whenever possible, an educational component that will help resolve the problem. I have always advocated for a two-tier dangerous dog law. Level One, sometimes called “Potentially Dangerous,” would address the onset of inappropriate behavior prior to a bite or attack, often during a dog’s adolescence, and require the owner to attend training classes or private behavior consults. If, after successful completion of the training requirement and passage of a certain period of time (perhaps 18 months), during which there are no more reported offenses, the designation of Potentially Dangerous could be lifted. Level Two, called “Dangerous” or “Vicious” would address dog behavior that results in serious injury or death to victims.

Some jurisdictions have a “dog school” for animal control violations – like traffic school for traffic violation – that educate owners and allow violations to be removed from their dogs’ records. These are wonderful programs. Whenever possible, the goal should be education, rehabilitation, and helping owners succeed with their dogs, not the imposition of burdensome penalties just for the sake of enforcement.

Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA, CDBC, is WDJ’s Training Editor. She lives in Fairplay, Maryland, site of her Peaceable Paws training center, where she offers dog training classes and courses for trainers. See page 24 for more information.

The Pavlov Dog Monitor Application

By
Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA
-
0

I was dismayed to open the link to what sounded like an interesting new dog training product – the Pavlov Dog Monitor from the Apple App Store. The application is intended for pets at home barking and suffering with separation anxiety problems as a result of their owners being gone for long workdays.

http://www.prweb.com/releases/2013/3/prweb10511153.htm

My BS radar went on high alert when I saw this comment early in the text:

“Even shock collars have not produced the positive results we are looking for,” stated Phillip Angert, Owner/Inventor at Cheviot Hills, LLC.

Gee, what a surprise that shock collars haven’t produced positive results. Not! Because hey, getting shocked is the last thing a stressed dog needs to reduce his anxiety about being left alone.

The radar went to Code Red as I continued to read. The next-best last thing the stressed dog needs may be the very thing this product promises – a recording of his owner’s voice saying “Bad Dog!” when he barks. (It also says, “Good Dog!” when he’s quiet.)

Verbally reprimanding an anxious dog, if it has any effect at all, is likely to add stress, creating more anxiety, not less. And by the way, if saying “Bad Dog!” was all that was needed to stop a dog’s barking there would be a heckuva lot fewer barking dogs in this world…

The article also says, “As the pet begins to understand the philosophy behind the application, additional greetings are introduced to the program.” Wow. The world has just begun to accept that dogs have much greater cognitive abilities than we’ve given them credit for in the past. Now they understand philosophy? Holy cow, Batman!

They apparently beta tested the product on an “n” of 1 – a Border Terrier puppy who reportedly went from “a barking city dog with neighbors complaining all the time, to a calm puppy with a cured separation anxiety problem.” Pardon my (radar alert) skepticism.

Another bit of behavior reality: “Bad Dog!” has meaning because the owner is there, glaring at the dog, threatening (or delivering) some other negative consequence in association with the phrase. “Good Dog!” is reassuring and rewarding to dogs because it’s generally associated with some positive consequence – an owner’s smiling face, a scratch behind the ear, or even a cookie. When there is repeatedly no consequence for a conditioned punisher – or a conditioned reinforcer – both phrases will quickly become irrelevant to most dogs, and lose any effectiveness they might initially have because of their past association with good stuff or bad stuff. 

Some people, especially those engaged in the eternal quest for the quick fix, are going to buy this product. I predict great disappointment. Sorry, Apple, this one’s rotten to the core.

Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA, CDBC, is WDJ’s Training Editor. She lives in Fairplay, Maryland, site of her Peaceable Paws training center, where she offers dog training classes and courses for trainers. Pat is also author of many books on positive training. See www.peaceablepaws.com. For more information.

Shhh! Don’t tell Otto I’m falling in love with another dog

By
Nancy Kerns
-
0

Otto is my heart dog/canine soul mate, my mixed-breed wonder dog. His first six or seven months are shrouded in mystery, as he was brought into my local shelter at about five months old, after being caught in a chicken coop by an irate owner of formerly living chickens. (I love him so much, I’m willing to suggest that he might have been framed; he’s never tried to kill MY chickens!) Otto sometimes resembles a miniature Irish Wolfhound, or a gigantic Norwich Terrier; he’s right in between the two in shape and size and coat quality. He could be anything, though his behavior suggests a little something “birdy” — when he spots or hears birds, he points. Flushing quail or pheasants or wild turkeys (in that order) score an 8, 9, and 10 on Otto’s fun list. But chasing rabbits and deer (briefly) also score 10s – and he is not interested in waterfowl in the least. So much for his behavior informing us as to his breed.

It doesn’t matter to me in the least that he’s a big mixed-up pup. I love that his looks (and behavior!) are unpredictable and uniquely his.

But there is a big place in my heart for purpose-bred dogs, too. I grew up with stock dogs – mostly Kelpies and Australian Cattle Dogs. I was also familiar with hounds, used by some of our neighbors for hunting bears and wild pigs. Being around those rough-and-tumble dogs made me really fall hard for another purpose-bred dog, the Border Collie. They were just as keen, but gentler and more sensitive than the working dogs of my youth.

Rupert was my first and only Border Collie (so far). Until Otto came along, I would have said that he was my one-and-only heart dog. An old boyfriend bought him for me the year I graduated from college; we picked him out of a litter bred and born on a sheep ranch. His price? Just $50; he was the “dud” of the litter, without a shred of interest in (nay, fixation with) sheep that his $500 siblings showed in abundance, even at the tender age of just four months old.

Even without an interest in sheep, though, he was all Border Collie weirdness and energy. He displayed a fierce work ethic Border Collies are renowned for, as well as some of the odd fears or superstitious behaviors that can be the bane of the breed. I loved him, and he loved me, for all 14-plus years that we shared.

After he passed away, I could no more have replaced Rupe with another Border Collie than I could have replaced my mother, who died a year to the day before.

But a young Border Collie is staying with me right now, and it’s bringing up all sorts of feelings and memories of Rupie. Thank goodness, she has owners; I’m not at risk of adopting her and breaking Otto’s heart in some sort of canine polygamy. She belongs to a married couple, 80 years old – the parents of a friend. They, too, had a beloved BC in their past, and decided that their last dog would be another one like the one they gave their hearts to years before. However, they had somehow forgotten about the difficulty of the adolescent months with a Border Collie – the relentless need for activity and mental stimulation. They remember their last dog (suitably named “Keeper”) as being more or less perfect, without much of an effort on their part. “Pumpkin” (I cannot explain the name) is staying with me for a week for a bit of training and exercise – and my own enjoyment.

Oh, those dancing brown BC eyes! Oh, the mischief! The light-footed leaps, the quirky decisions, the superquick learning curve. The way a one-mile hike is turned into a three-mile race, with brave forays into the distance and lightning-fast returns. “Just checking! And c’mon, c’mon, c’mon, why are you going so slow!” Ack, my heart is melting.

She gets picked up on Saturday. But I’m already negotiating for inheritance rights with my friend. KIDDING! I want her owners to live forever! But I’m here. Just saying 😉

(WD Walking Your Dog tip #1) Tips for Walking Your Dog

By
Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA
-
0

Have you ever felt dismayed over the shrinking access for our canine companions? I know that to a large degree we’ve brought it on ourselves by our collective carelessness about proper public and leash-walking etiquette.

  • Remember that your dog’s leash is not a steering wheel or handle. It’s a safety belt, intended to prevent your dog from leaving. It’s not to be used to pull him around, nor should he drag you along behind him.
  • For left-side walking, start with your dog sitting by your left side. I suggest holding leash and clicker in your left hand (same side as the dog) and having a good supply of treats in your right hand.
  • For right-side walking, just switch all the equipment to opposite hands. Make sure there’s enough slack in the leash so it stays loose when your dog is in the reinforcement zone you’ve identified for polite walking.

For more information on how to reform a puller into a more pleasant walking companion purchase Whole Dog Journal’s Walking Your Dog eBook.

Download the Full March 2013 Issue PDF

By
Nancy Kerns
-
0
...
To continue reading this article or issue you must be a paid subscriber. Sign in
If you are logged in but cannot access this content, a) your subscription may have expired; b) you may have duplicate accounts (emails) in our system. Please check your account status here or contact customer service.

Subscribe

Subscribe to Whole Dog Journal

With your Whole Dog Journal order you’ll get:

  • Immediate access to this article and 20+ years of archives.
  • Recommendations for the best dog food for your dog.
  • Dry food, homemade diets and recipes, dehydrated and raw options, canned food and more.
  • Brands, formulations and ingredients all searchable in an easy-to-use, searchable database.

Plus, you’ll receive training and care guidance to keep your dog healthy and happy. You’ll feed with less stress…train with greater success…and know you are giving your dog the care he deserves.

Subscribe now and save 72%! Its like getting 8 issues free!

Already Subscribed?

Click Here to Sign In | Forgot your password? | Activate Web Access

Vaccine Titer Tests: What They Can and Can’t Do

By
Nancy Kerns
-
0

One of the tests I asked for at Otto’s annual wellness exam last week was a vaccine titer test. These blood tests are able to detect antibodies that the dog has produced in response to a vaccination. Such positive results can confirm that the dog responded in the desired manner to the vaccination and is now protected against the diseases he was vaccinated for.

However, many of us owners who ask (and pay) for titer tests year after year are not doing this to assure themselves that their dogs are protected against disease. In my case (and that of many of my friends), we are paying $50 to $100 a year for the test to prove to our veterinarians that our dogs are adequately protected against disease – to ward off the overzealous promotion of what we know to be unneeded (and thus excessive) vaccinations. Because once we have the first positive titer test results, it’s almost certain that he is protected for life from the diseases he was vaccinated for. The only exceptions to this are rare.

I adopted Otto from a shelter in June 2008. He was picked up as a stray two months prior, and was estimated to be about 7-8 months old. During his two-month stay in the shelter, he had received four combination vaccinations (for distemper, adenovirus Type-2, coronavirus, parainfluenza, and parvovirus); another vaccination for adenovirus type 2 (combined with parainfluenza and bordetella); and a rabies vaccine. The only vaccines he’s received since then are rabies vaccines: a 3-year vaccine given in April 2009, and another one given in late March 2012.

I brought Otto to a local veterinarian in spring of 2010 for a heartworm test and wellness exam. The vet was adamant that Otto also needed “booster” vaccines. The vet had been recommended to me as the best one in my town, so this was a bit discouraging. (So-called “boosters” do not, in fact, “boost” immunity. If the dog has wither circulating antibodies against disease OR immune “memory cells” — cell-mediated immunity that has developed following a vaccine against or infection from the disease — he’s got as much immunity as he CAN have against those diseases.) I asked the veterinarian if he would be content with the results of a vaccine titer test; if the test showed that Otto still had circulating antibodies to the vaccines he had received at the shelter, would he be satisfied that Otto did not need further vaccines? He said he would. So I paid for a titer test, which came back, as I expected, with a nice healthy positive result.

In spring 2011, however, I received a postcard from that veterinarian’s office suggesting that Otto was not just “due” but “OVERDUE” for a laundry list of vaccines. So this was going to be an annual argument, it looked like. I strongly believe in annual wellness examinations and blood tests, but I don’t think my healthy dog need to be vaccinated with anything but the state-required rabies vaccine again. I decided to seek out a new veterinarian – someone younger and, I hoped, more comfortable with the idea that Otto’s previous vaccinations and apparent good health meant he wouldn’t need further vaccinations for years, if ever!

I found a highly recommended veterinarian the next town over, a college town with a lot of progressive, younger doctors. He agreed that Otto was probably protected by his previous vaccines – but wanted to repeat the titer test to “prove” this. I figured if it helped him feel more comfortable NOT recommending further vaccines, it would be a small price to pay to have access to this larger, better equipped, more modern clinic. We ran another titer test; nice and positive. Otto and later Tito saw the same vet later in the year for unrelated issues, and I was mostly pleased with those experiences.

In spring 2012, when I made an appointment at this clinic for Otto’s annual wellness visit and a heartworm test, despite requesting the vet who saw Otto the previous year, I was given an appointment with one of the (older) practice owners. And she wanted to talk to me about vaccines. She felt strongly that a positive result to a titer test was not enough to prove that Otto was protected against disease. She told me that dogs whose titer tests reveal circulating antibodies may lack cell-mediated immunity (adequate T-cells) and be unable to defend themselves against illness. I have heard that, I responded, “but isn’t that rare?” She agreed that it was. “And can’t dogs with past positive titer tests be protected by cell-mediated immunity even if their later titer tests don’t show any circulating antibodies?” I asked. She agreed that this can be true – that previously vaccinated dogs may lack circulating antibodies, but retain immune memory cells that will “remember” experiencing a disease antigen, and mount a vigorous immune response if challenged with disease. But she wanted to stress that there are rare cases where dogs with nice high levels of circulating antibodies but a dysfunctional cell-mediated immune response failed to respond properly to a disease challenge. So her takeaway point was this: You should vaccinate your dog again, regardless of titer test results.

Back to the drawing board — looking for a new vet.

I recently found a young doctor at a clinic in my town. Before I made an appointment for Otto’s annual wellness exam and heartworm test, I asked the practice receptionist if I could have some time to talk to the vet and find out whether he was comfortable with the idea that Otto was not in need of any vaccinations. Later, talking to the vet on the phone, he said he would be willing to accept this – but would feel most comfortable with a current titer test showing a positive antibody result. Well, beggars can’t be choosers. I agreed, and the test came back positive. So far, so good.

It might seem crazy, paying as much as $100 for an unnecessary test annually in an attempt to prove that my dog doesn’t need a $20 vaccination. But I need a local vet who will work with me, happily, without feeling that “overdue vaccines” are putting my dog at risk. I spent 14 years with another dog whose severe allergies may well have been caused and worsened by the completely unnecessary annual vaccines I didn’t know enough to refuse in his first five or six years. I’m not going to risk putting another dog through years of suffering like that to save a few bucks. If the titer test is the price of a good local vet’s cooperation, I’m willing to pay it.

For a very thorough article on canine vaccinations and titer tests, see “Beware of Over-Vaccinating Your Dog“.

(Canineallergies Tip #4) Canine Allergies: Keeping Candida In Check

By
CJ Puotinen
-
0

Like all yeasts, candida thrives on sugars, including those from grains, starches, and othercarbohydrates. Beneficial bacteria (such as Lactobacillus acidophilus) metabolize sugars, which keeps candida in check by disrupting its food supply. A shortage of beneficial bacteria results in a sugar-rich environment and an abundance of Candida albicans.

Once a candida overgrowth occurs, it becomes a vicious cycle. Candida cells overwhelm whatever beneficial bacteria survive in the digestive tract or are introduced as supplements, and a diet high in carbohydrates keeps the candida population strong and in control.

Candida is a formidable enemy because its cells manufacture toxic chemicals that kill beneficial bacteria and harm the body. Candida’s waste products include toxic alcohols, acetone, and the nerve poison hydrogen sulfide, all of which slow the brain, contribute to fatigue, and disrupt the immune system.

Candida symptoms are often misdiagnosed as allergies, says Arndt, manifesting as rashes or skin outbreaks on the feet, face, underarm, underbelly, or genital areas. Recurring hot spots or infections of the ears, eyes, bladder, or urinary tract can be caused by candida overgrowth.

For more information on keeping candida in check as well as the treatment and diagnoses of allergies in your dog, purchase and download Whole Dog Journal’s ebook, Canine Allergies.

Pet health insurance

By
Nancy Kerns
-
0

I took Otto and Tito to the veterinarian yesterday for wellness exams (and heartworm tests and blood tests) and spent $500. I had priced things beforehand, and knew what I was in for, but it’s still quite a bite.

I strongly believe in the value of annual wellness checks. It’s a perfect opportunity for the vet to find things that we owners wouldn’t necessarily notice, such as the beginning of a mass growing on the roof of our dog’s mouth, say, or a swollen abdomen. Routine blood chemistry, blood cell counts, and heartworm tests (where heartworm is a threat) are also valuable early-detection tools for any number of budding health problems; even if they don’t reveal problems, the “normal” values result may serve as a useful baseline down the road if problems do develop. It’s also a good time to ask the vet about low-priority things that you have been wondering about. Be sure to let the receptionist know when you book the appointment that you need a little extra time to have a number of questions answered or things looked at, so the vet has time to talk – and then prepare to pay for that time.

Health insurance plans vary, but many pay for – or at least discount the price of – regular wellness visits. I’ve priced these plans, but have blanched at the monthly cost of covering two dogs and two cats. By the time I pay, completely out of pocket, for the wellness visits and the various things that come up in a multi-pet family, that I would pay less annually for insurance and co-pays, but I just haven’t been able to make myself sign up yet. I’ll kick myself, I know, if Otto needs costly care – if he tore an ACL or got cancer, for example — but right now I just keep crossing my fingers and paying for things out of pocket. 

How about you? Are your dogs insured? Have you found insurance to help keep costs down? If you haven’t gotten health insurance for your dogs yet, why not?

Resource Guarding

By
Lisa Rodier
-
1

Ever had a dog who won’t give you his bone or chew toy if you try to take it from him? Or one who gets uncomfortable or growls if you get close to him when he’s eating his dog food? Or snaps at you if he’s on the sofa and you want him off? Or lifts his lip in a snarl if your friend tries to get close to you?

Answer yes to any of the above, and you’ve successfully diagnosed your dog as having a guarding issue. The catch-all, technical term is “resource-guarding,” and can include guarding of dog food bowls (or food), place (dog crate, dog bed, sofa, etc.) items (rawhide, bones, balls, tissues, etc.) and less commonly, people.

Resource-guarding simply means that a dog gets uncomfortable when we (or other humans) are around him when he had “his stuff.” He’s nervous that we’re going to take it away, so he tries to warn us off in a variety of ways, ranging from simply consuming his food faster, to an all-out bite.

For more advice on how to recognize the signs of resource-guarding and ways to reduce, eliminate and prevent it, purchase and download the ebook from Whole Dog Journal, Resource Guarding.

No more noise, no more fun

By
Nancy Kerns
-
0

One of my favorite things about my dog, Otto, is that he loves and apparently cherishes his squeaky toys. Unlike dogs I’ve known who feel that the only good squeaker is a dead squeaker, Otto has had squeaky toys that have lasted for years with nary a squeak-ending puncture. Sadly, this trend seems to have ended.

It started with a soft rubber pig that made a realistic, low grunty sound – not incidentally the noise-making toy that created more excitement from Otto than any toy ever had. Otto would do anything for that toy, including a long, arduous chain of behaviors, in order to earn a minute of blissed-out noise-making with that toy. But a moment’s inattention led to the toy getting stolen away by Diamond, my former foster dog, who very quickly chewed the pig’s nose off – and with it, the ability of the toy to make noise. When Otto discovered the theft, and attempted to make the pig grunt, he seemed genuinely puzzled by the “whoosh, whoosh” noise it made instead. He would make the noise, put the toy down, look at the toy carefully, nose it around on the ground, pick it up again, whoosh whoosh, again and again. He was disappointed — nowhere near as excited or as motivated by the toy as he had been before. As soon as the novel “Grunt, grunt” noise was done, so was he.

The toy was such a motivator for him, I took a long drive out of my way to return to the only store where I had ever seen the toy sold, and bought him another one. By this time, Diamond was placed in his new home, and Tito the Chihuahua isn’t a chewer, so I felt safe in handing over the new pig to Otto to enjoy. But within about two minutes, to my surprise, I heard a familiar sound: “Whoosh, whoosh.” What? I investigated and lo and behold, the pig’s nose had been chewed off, as neatly as if Diamond had done it.

A few months went by before I was anywhere near that one pet supply store again. I looked at the pig toy, and the price. Did I dare buy another one? It’s a fragile toy. But he used to treat it so gently; the first one lasted for at least six months before its rhinoplasty. I spent the money.

Sadly, the new toy quickly went the way of the previous two. It’s almost as if he can’t help himself. He loves the grunting noise, but he has to bite the nose off the toy. I won’t buy another, and it makes me almost as sad as it’s made him.

1...239240241...391Page 240 of 391

Latest Blog

Is your dog suffering from separation anxiety or is it another form of distress.
Blog

Is it Really Separation Anxiety?

Nancy Kerns 4
I have never owned a dog with separation anxiety, thank goodness. The condition is hard on the dog who suffers from the condition and hard on the dog’s caretakers, too, including owners, vets, groomers, pet sitters, and dog walkers. Care must be taken to prevent triggering the dog’s panic at being left alone—in severe cases, even just long enough for the person caring for the dog to use the restroom!
© Belvoir Media Group, LLC. All rights reserved.