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Does My Dog Have Pneumonia?

By
Dr. Debra M. Eldredge, DVM
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0
Dog pneumonia is first diagnosed by listening to a dog's lungs and then confirmed by x-ray.
In making a diagnosis of pneumonia, the veterinarian will listen to your dog’s lungs. Credit: Dima Sidelnikov | Getty Images

Canine pneumonia is a respiratory infection that has moved into the dog’s lower respiratory tract, the bronchioles and lungs themselves. The location of the infection alone makes it harder for your dog to get relief by coughing.

Some dogs with pneumonia may cough, bringing up some discharge. Others will have rapid or painful breathing but lie quietly and not really cough unless they get up and are active. Nasal discharge, generally thick and often pus-like, may be noticed. Most of these dogs seem to feel sick, lying around and not eating or drinking well. Fortunately, the survival

Causes of Dog Pneumonia

The causes of pneumonia are numerous, with some more serious than others. How does a dog even get pneumonia?

There are four categories of pneumonia:

  • Bacterial
  • Viral
  • Fungal
  • Aspiration

Almost always, the dog must have inhaled a pathogen or infectious agent. He might have inhaled some droplets when another dog sneezed or coughed nearby and released viral particles or bacteria. Walking in the woods, he may have snorted in some fungal spores. While vomiting, he may have inhaled some food particles.

Less commonly, your dog may breathe in smoke or other toxic fumes. All these possible causes interfere with the normal exchange of carbon dioxide for oxygen in your dog’s lungs. The alveoli (air sacs) in the lungs may fill with fluid, pus, or inflammatory cells and interfere with oxygen movement.

Diagnosis of Pneumonia

The suspected cause of the pneumonia will influence treatment and prognosis. Your veterinarian will start with diagnostic procedures. Initially, auscultation (listening to your dog’s chest with a stethoscope) will give your veterinarian an idea of the problem. A complete history will provide possible exposures to various pathogens. Pneumonias often have multiple causes, such as bacteria acting with viruses to cause the illness.

The next step is usually X-rays. Some pneumonias will have a characteristic appearance on a film. Throat or nasal swabs may be taken and sometimes a tracheal wash (flushing some sterile fluid into the trachea and then drawing it back up) will be done. These lab techniques may identify bacteria or fungi and provide material for cultures, so your veterinarian can prescribe the most efficacious antibiotics.

Treatment of Dog Pneumonia

Treatment will depend on the pneumonia severity. Very ill dogs will need to be hospitalized, given intravenous (IV) fluids and supplemental oxygen, along with specific medications to battle the pathogen responsible.

Dogs who are still eating and drinking may be sent home with restrictions on activity. Nebulization can help, either with a nebulizer or simply keeping your dog in the bathroom while you shower. The warm steam helps to loosen debris in the lungs, making it easier for your dog to cough it up.

Coupage can help. In this nursing technique, which can be done at home, you use a cupped hand to lightly rap on your dog’s chest. This can help to loosen debris. Ask your veterinarian to show you how to do this.

Overall, about 80% of all dogs with pneumonia survive. Puppies, elderly dogs, and dogs with other chronic health conditions have a lower survival rate. Fungal pneumonias are notoriously difficult to treat and have a worse prognosis than bacterial pneumonia.

My Dog Is Not Eating

By
Dr. Debra M. Eldredge, DVM
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3
Boy sneaking dog food from the table
If your dog is otherwise healthy and normal, you may have to grab your detective hat to decide why your dog isn’t eating. Credit: John Howard | Getty Images

If your dog skips his meals for a day or two but is otherwise acting fine – no diarrhea, no vomiting, normal heart and respiration – you should be OK holding off on a veterinary visit. But not any longer than a day or two! And, if the fasting dog is a senior, a dog with any chronic health condition, a puppy, or appears at all ill, at a minimum, you need to call your veterinarian for advice.

 

 

Loss of Appetite in Dogs

Some health conditions can lead to a loss of appetite. A dog with kidney or liver problems may feel nauseous and not want to eat. Many of these dogs will approach their meals, drooling even, but will turn and walk away.

Check your dog’s mouth for any sign of injuries such as ulcers, a stick or bone caught across the roof of his mouth – it happens more often than you may think! – or an electrical burn from chomping on a cord. Many of these dogs will act fine, at least for a while, despite not eating.

Some dogs just seem to be naturally finicky, like, this week beef is the favorite protein but last week only salmon would do. This is where it pays to know your dog.

Loss of Appetite in Breeding Dogs

If your dog is an intact male and you have an attractive girl in heat (basically ANY girl in heat is attractive), your boy may be perfectly healthy but in lust. This includes any bitch in the neighborhood, not just in your household.

For most males this will only last for a couple of days, right around when the female is in “prime time.” Provided he does not have any health problems that could be exacerbated by fasting for a few days, simply figure you are saving on dog food.

Another healthy-but-not-eating scenario can occur in a female who is pregnant and suffering from something similar to morning sickness. This tends to happen around two to three weeks post breeding. Generally, these females will eat something at some point during the day. Occasionally, even false-pregnant bitches will do this, too.

Adolescents

On to the non-sex-related anorexic dogs, although somewhat related. Adolescent males often will not eat well. Despite your most tempting offerings, they will walk on by. Meanwhile, they are burning up calories and can get quite thin. This is usually a stage somewhere in between 6 to 12 months of age. Most of them do eat something, but it can be very frustrating to owners. This too shall pass.

Canine Secret Eating

Then we get to the tricky non-eaters. First, be sure that someone else is not feeding your dog. Another family member, a kind neighbor, your cat (usually inadvertently on the cat’s part). Some dogs are such gluttons that they will eat these extras plus their own meals, but others admit they are full. This includes dogs who hunt and scavenge on their own. If your dog is out catching and eating squirrels or rabbits, he truly may not be hungry. It could also be a change in the dog’s bowl you haven’t noticed.

If your dog won’t eat, you have a small window of time to evaluate the situation, The better you know your dog, the easier it is to decide. Taking the dog’s temperature, pulse, and respiration and watching for diarrhea, constipation, and changes in urine output is wise. Keep your veterinarian in the loop if your dog is at all very young, old, or battling a chronic disease. We don’t want you to take chances, but you usually don’t have to panic either.

How to Get Porcupine Quills Out of a Dog

By
Dr. Debra M. Eldredge, DVM
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0
Getting porcupine quills out of a dog is important to prevent infection.
Porcupine quills are painful and can carry infection. You need a veterinarian to help remove them, unless you’re sure the dog only received a couple of quills. Credit: MollyAnne | Getty Images

The worst case I have had of porcupine quills in a dog was a nightmare—literally. At 2 a.m., my veterinary technician and I tallied up the last of the 252 quills we pulled out of a dog who engaged a porcupine. That dog attacked, killed, and then rolled on his porcupine opponent. There were a lot of quills.

Let’s hope your dog is more cautious than the dog in this case. Most dogs usually gently poke a porcupine with their nose or dab at it with a paw, walking away with a sore nose or foot and just a few quills to be pulled.

But some dogs do go all out, attacking and killing the porcupine, leaving the scene with a face full of quills.

What Are Porcupine Quills?

Porcupine quills are modified hairs. They have barb-like scales on the hairs that help them to attach, and then, if not quickly pulled out, can migrate farther into your dog’s skin and body.

Porcupines don’t fling quills at potential attackers. Your dog must come up and touch them to get quilled.

If your dog is one of few sensible canines who only has two or three quills in his nose or muzzle, you might be able to remove them at home using needle-nose pliers. Your dog will have to be restrained, however, because it will hurt. The big concern is that your dog may have rubbed or chewed off some quills, so there are more in his skin than you think.

Veterinary Visit to Remove Quills

Most dogs get a muzzle or paw full of quills and often have quills in their mouths. Removing the quills requires a veterinarian and sedation. It hurts.

With your dog sedated, your veterinarian will do a thorough, full-body check for quills. With hairy dogs, you must run your hands over each inch of the dog’s body, feeling for quills or quill stumps. Often missed sites include between toes or in the mouth under the tongue or along the gum line inside the lips.

The skin and underlying tissues will be inflamed where the barbed quills penetrated deeper. It must be assumed that the quills carry infection and introduce bacteria into your dog. Most clinics will dispense pain medications and antibiotics. You will also need to observe your dog carefully for any swollen areas or areas that remain painful after a day or so.

The quills can migrate through tissues in your dog’s body. On rare occasions, a dog will develop a granulomatous abscess from a migrating quill. This can occur weeks or months later. Dogs have had abscesses in their lungs, liver, muscles, and sadly, on rare occasions in the brain.

Obviously, it’s best to avoid letting your dog interact with a porcupine. If you know of a porcupine den in your area, avoid it, and keep your dog on a leash. A porcupine is not going to come looking for trouble and, if left alone, will simply waddle away. If your dog pesters one, it will fling its tail about but not charge your dog unless it is defending porcupettes (baby porcupines).

Addressing Common Dog Behavioral Issues

By
Kate O'Connor
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0
Jumping is one of the most common dog behavioral issues.
Jumping up to greet people is a common problem dog owners face but there are training techniques that can help. Credit: SolStock | Getty Images

There are quite a few behaviors that are normal and natural for dogs that just don’t work very well in the human world. Whether it’s humping other dogs or barking at the neighbor’s cat, these behaviors can be disruptive and, in some cases, can even lead to a dog being surrendered or rehomed. Luckily, there are often training solutions for these common dog behavioral issues.

 

 

Common Dog Behavioral Issues
  1. How to Stop a Dog from Digging
  2. How to Stop a Dog from Eating Poop
  3. How to Train a Dog to Stop Barking
  4. How to Stop a Dog from Humping
  5. How to Stop a Dog from Jumping on People

How to Stop a Dog from Digging

Digging is a natural, normal behavior for many dogs but that doesn’t mean you have to put up with holes everywhere. To stop a dog from digging, you first need to understand where the behavior is coming from.

There are a number of reasons dogs dig including to explore, relieve boredom or stress, create a cool spot to rest in, escape, chase underground critters, or just for the fun of it. Given that digging often stems from boredom or looking for some fun, one of the best ways to reduce the urge is by making sure your dog is getting enough mental stimulation and exercise. Walks, training, enrichment toys, playtime, and socialization can all help liven up a dog’s life and keep him from turning to behaviors—like digging—that you would prefer he avoid.

The more your dog loves to dig, the harder it will be to get him to stop. You can remove temptation by:

  • Locating any areas in the yard that might be particularly inviting for digging—such as gopher holes and loose dirt piles—and keeping your dog away from them. To do so, you will need to supervise your dog in the yard or use a dog run or exercise pen.
  • Giving your dog an area where he is allowed to dig can also help prevent holes in spots you’d rather keep un-dug. If your dog is already an established digger, try creating a digging pit for him by filling a kid’s sandbox or plastic wading pool with sand or dirt and burying his toys in it. Introduce him to the game by showing him the digging pit and helping him uncover a few toys.
  • Replacing most of the dirt and an already-dug hole, adding collected dog feces to the hole, and covering it the rest of the way up. With several repetitions, this may discourage some dogs from digging.

Finally, if your dog is digging to get out of a fenced yard or pen, you will probably need to build a better fence. If you can’t be there to supervise, there’s no easy way to compete with all of the excitement on the other side of a barrier.

For a closer look, see “What to Do if Your Dog Digs Where You Don’t Want Him To.”

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How to Stop a Dog from Eating Poop

“Coprophagia,” or poop eating, is one of the grosser things—from a human perspective—that dogs do. While eating poop is normal for dogs, the behavior can cause problems beyond just the ick-factor since it puts dogs at risk of contracting intestinal parasites and diseases such as parvovirus. It can also be a symptom of an underlying medical condition or nutritional deficiency.

For this reason, the first step you should take if your dog is eating poop is to have her examined by a veterinarian to rule out any possible medical causes. If she gets a clean bill of health, your best bet will be developing strategies for managing the behavior. These can include:

  • Cleaning up after your dog as soon as possible.
  • Removing access to other animal feces such as putting cat litterboxes out of reach.
  • Teaching a ‘leave it’ cue and supervising your dog.
  • Training your dog to be comfortable in a basket muzzle. (As with any new equipment, do NOT just put a muzzle on a dog who has never worn one before. You will need to develop a training plan that creates a positive association with the muzzle.)

Coprophagia can also be caused by boredom, stress, and anxiety. Increasing the amount of mental stimulation your dog is getting and working with a trainer to identify and address any stress or anxiety your dog is feeling may help stop a dog from eating poop.

For further information, see “Help! Why Does My Dog Eat Poop?”

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How to Train a Dog to Stop Barking

Barking is one of the primary ways dogs communicate but it can become a problem when a dog barks too much, too loudly, or at the wrong time for her human companions. To train a dog to stop barking, you first need to figure out why she is vocalizing. Depending on the reason, you can use techniques such as counterconditioning and desensitization, training a positive interrupt, and ignoring the behavior to help modify excessive barking.

Common reasons for barking include:

  • Alarm/Alert: Dogs will bark to let human and canine companions know that there is something dangerous or interesting nearby. Counterconditioning and desensitization and use of a positive interrupt can help.
  • Anxiety: Some dogs will bark when they are nervous or afraid. Consult with a professional behaviorist to better assess how to manage your dog’s anxiety.
  • Boredom: As with many other “problem” behaviors, a lack of mental stimulation and exercise can result in a dog who barks for entertainment. Whether it’s taking her with you to run errands or introducing her to puzzle toys, find more for the dog to do.
  • Demand: Some dogs will bark when they want something—like attention or treats. To reduce demand barking, ignore your dog when she is barking and reward her when she is quiet.
  • Frustration: While similar to demand barking, frustration barking is directed at the thing the dig can’t have. Use a positive interrupt along with counterconditioning and desensitization.
  • Greeting/Excitement: Dogs will often bark when they are excited or to say hello—like when you come home after a long day at work. As with demand barking, ignore your dog until she is calm and greet her once she is quiet.
  • Play: Many dogs bark during play. If it gets to be too much, a “time-out” technique where you remove your dog from play for a few minutes—usually by putting her on a short leash—can help. You can also teach her to hold a toy in her mouth.

For a more detailed look at types of barking and how to modify them, see “How to Stop a Dog from Barking.”

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How to Stop a Dog from Humping

Despite common misconceptions, humping behavior in dogs is generally not due to either an intent to reproduce or displays of dominance. It is normal canine behavior and both male and female dogs will hump other dogs—or furniture, toys, cushions, and even humans—for reasons including play, stress or anxiety, excitement, attention-seeking, and masturbation. It can also (rarely) be a symptom of obsessive-compulsive disorder (OCD).

While humping behavior is natural for dogs, it can become a nuisance to humans and other dogs alike. To stop a dog from humping try the following steps:

  • First, speak with your vet to rule out any potential medical causes for the behavior.
  • Increase how much exercise and mental stimulation your dog is getting.
  • Reduce stress.
  • Train and use a positive interrupt such as “Walk Away” to stop the behavior while it is happening.
  • Train for good manners (polite greetings, down, touch, place, etc.).
  • Consult with a reputable fear-free trainer or behaviorist if the behavior persists.

For an in-depth discussion, see “Why Do Dogs Hump (and What You Can Do).”

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How to Stop a Dog from Jumping on People

From muddy pawprints to knocking someone over, jumping up on people is not a behavior to encourage. There is no single answer for how to stop a dog from jumping on people. Dogs jump up for a number of reasons—to get attention, to say hello, to get information, or for comfort—and each requires a different approach.

If your dog is jumping on people to get attention or to say hello, the best method for stopping the behavior is by training and generously reinforcing incompatible behaviors. The goal is to teach your dog that attention comes when she sits politely:

  • Be prepared and reward her with treats or attention before she has a chance to jump up.
  • When out in public, let people who ask to say hi to her know that they can pet her if she sits but to please stop and back up if she jumps.
  • If she has trouble sitting still (or just for fun!), teach other cues incompatible with jumping such as “Search” or have visitors throw a toy for her when they walk in the door.

If your dog is jumping on people to get information about them—which can happen when a dog is uncertain or cautious around new people—it’s best to prevent direct interaction until the dog is more comfortable. Do not let the new person pet or approach the dog—or the dog approach the person—until the dog is relaxed and comfortable.

If your dog is jumping up to seek comfort, it’s okay to comfort her. If possible, comfort her before she has a chance to start jumping. Stay calm, remove the frightening thing if possible, and figure out what works to make her feel better (holding her, petting her, doing some training exercises, favorite treats, etc.). If nothing seems to work or if the behavior worsens, don’t be afraid to contact a behaviorist or trainer for help.

For more information, see “How to Stop Your Dog From Jumping on People.”

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Finally, don’t forget that you are not alone! For any dog behavioral issues where you are feeling stuck, seek help from a force-free trainer or certified behaviorist.

What Works—and What Doesn’t—to Help Your Dog Through Adolescence

By
Nancy Kerns
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1
Adolescent dogs can be a handful
Adolescent dogs can get into world-class trouble, especially if they who have too much unsupervised time on their paws, a poorly managed environment, and/or not enough physical and mental stimulation.. Photo credit: Steve Cicero, Getty Images

When I was first introduced to what was then referred to as “positive dog training,” my son was about 5 years old. What I learned about this style of working with dogs—and especially puppies—jibed completely with how I wanted to raise my son. Principles like “catch them doing something right” (offer praise and reinforcement frequently for behaviors that are freely offered and are the things you’d like to see them doing), managing the environment to set them up for success, and communicating clearly about what behaviors you want (instead of forbidding/simply saying “No” to behaviors you don’t like) made perfect sense to me. I often say that positive dog training is responsible for my son turning out so well. At age 32, he’s successful, kind, responsible, a great dog owner, and soon to become a parent himself!

Recently, though, I have become more and more obsessed with how what is now called “force-free” dog training can help adolescent dogs in particular. I see so many parallels between the most effective ways to raise a teenager and how to get a dog through adolescence without ever feeling like you want to put them up for adoption.

I am not being flippant; adolescent dogs are at the greatest risk of being abandoned or surrendered to shelters and euthanized there. Walk through any animal shelter or flip through photos on rescue websites and you will quickly see that there are more homeless adolescent dogs than dogs of any other ages. Adolescents—generally, dogs between about 6 and 24 months—are surrendered to shelters more frequently than dogs of any other age, and they are often the most difficult to find homes for, especially after their behavior gets worse and worse as they grow increasingly frustrated and stressed in a shelter. Humans clearly have a difficult time dealing with dogs in this age bracket!

And it’s understandable! Adolescents are undergoing physical and chemical changes that give them a biological imperative to explore their worlds, become more independent, and to seek out food, social opportunities, and entertainment—but, restricted by the human environment and our schedules, these natural, normal impulses are often obstructed. Struggling with frustration and boredom causes many young dogs to behave in ways we don’t like, as our formerly perfect puppies develop new hobbies of chewing or otherwise destroying things in our homes, demand-barking, agitating other animals in the gamily, fence-running or fence-fighting, and more.

Just as some parents threaten (or follow through on threats) to send their misbehaving teenagers to military or boarding school, some dog owners become tempted to send their rambunctious, “uncontrollable” canine adolescents to a training “boot camp” or “board and train” facility. The conceit is that you send your obnoxious, naughty dog away and receive a polite, better-behaved dog back—but believe me when I say that this approach is fraught with peril. I can’t count how many news articles I’ve read about dogs who were injured, starved, neglected, and even killed by so-called trainers who “guaranteed” good results from their training program. But perhaps even more frequently, I’ve heard from trainers who told sad stories about dogs who came back from harsh training boot camps with a newfound fear and mistrust of humans, or a brand-new tendency to respond to their owners’ approach with defensive aggression.

To put it bluntly, trying to force a dog into compliance in any abbreviated time span, absent a loving, attentive, understanding owner, is a recipe for disaster.

Here’s what works well with adolescents of all species, to help them pass through and past the challenges of “teenagehood” and into a well-behaved, enjoyable adulthood:

What Are the Different Types of Assistance Dogs?

By
Dan Muse
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0
Service dogs come in many different types and can help with multiple conditions.
Service dogs for the blind are probably the most widely known type of assistance dog, but now dogs are also trained to detect illness, provide emotional support to those with PTSD, and more.

Service dogs are more than just well-behaved canine companions adorned in cool vests. These dogs are highly trained partners, each uniquely equipped to provide life-changing assistance to individuals with a wide range of disabilities. They are also a testament to the deep bond between humans and dogs, offering not just practical help but also emotional support and a sense of security.

“Any dog can be a service dog,” says Michelle Cote, a Connecticut-based trainer specializing in service-dog certification for veterans, first responders, and civilians struggling with conditions like post-traumatic stress disorder (PTSD), anxiety, and depression.

A good service dog must possess certain key qualities. Cote says they need to be “easy to train and have a will to please, but they also need a sense of civil disobedience to do what they have been trained to do—they need to know what’s right and make independent decisions.”

They also need a keen sense of observation. But perhaps most importantly, they require a remarkable sense of calmness and focus, allowing them to work effectively in public spaces amid distractions.

5 Different Types of Service Dogs

While there are many types of service dogs, these are the most common types:

  • Psychiatric-services dogs are trained to assist individuals with mental health conditions such as anxiety, depression and PTSD. These dogs offer emotional support, performing calming behaviors like nuzzling or providing deep pressure therapy
  • Visually impaired service dogs, arguably the best-known service dogs, guide dogs are trained to assist individuals who are blind or visually impaired and help them navigate through public spaces, alerting them.
  • Hearing-impaired service dogs are trained to assist individuals who are deaf or hard of hearing. They are trained to detect and alert their owners to sounds like doorbells, smoke detectors, and phones.
  • Mobility assistance dogs serve individuals with limited mobility and are trained to perform tasks like retrieving dropped items, opening doors, and pulling wheelchairs, and even providing balance support.
  • Autism service dogs support those on the autism spectrum. For children, they provide physical safety and emotional support. Cote said autism service dogs also provide support to families, helping them engage in activities as simple as going to the park or out for dinner.

Specialized Medical Service Dogs

The field of service dogs is constantly evolving to meet individual needs and several types of specialized service dogs are emerging:

  • Diabetic service dogs can detect changes in blood sugar levels, alerting their diabetic handler to take corrective measures.
  • Allergy detection dogs are trained to identify allergens like peanuts and help individuals with severe allergies stay safe.
  • Seizure alert service dogs detect the onset of seizures and are trained to help keep their handler safe during an episode.

Service Dogs Allowed

The Americans with Disabilities Act (ADA) protects the rights of handlers and their service dogs. With few exceptions, services dogs are allowed anywhere their handlers frequents.  The ADA defines a service animal as a dog that:

  • Is individually trained to do work or perform tasks for a person with a disability.
  • The tasks performed by the dog must be directly related to the person’s disability.
  • The disability can be physical, sensory, psychiatric, intellectual or mental.

Business owners, managers and staff cannot ask for documentation or medical information of any kind and may ask only two questions, according to the ADA:

  1. Is the dog a service animal required because of a disability?
  2. What work or task has the dog been trained to perform?

A Lesson For All Dog Owners

Beyond the assistances service dogs provide their owners, a study by Purdue University’s Human-Animal Bond Research Institute suggests the bond goes deeper.

The study involved 120 individuals with disabilities and measured their levels of anxiety, depression, anger, loneliness and sleep quality compared to before they started working with their service dogs.

The results showed a significant decrease in anxiety, anger, and loneliness after partnering with a service dog. While the study focused on service dogs and their handlers, the findings are a reminder of the mental benefits dogs provide to all owners.

The Best Dog Scratch Pads for Fear-Free Nail Trims

By
Jae Thomas, CPDT-KA
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7
Dog scratch pads provide an alternative to clippers for keeping dog nails trimmed.
Whole Dog Journal tested four dog scratch pads looking for the best options for fear-free nail trims. Credit: Jae Thomas

A ton of dogs find nail trims scary and stressful. If your dog wiggles, pulls their paws away, or becomes overly stressed when you trim their nails, there are other options than just using nail clippers or a dremel. Namely, the best dog scratch pads will allow force-free, cooperative care nail trims that your dog can opt into.

What are Dog Scratch Pads?

A dog scratch board or scratch pad is usually a wooden or plastic board with an abrasive material like sandpaper adhered to one side. Some scratch pads have additional features like treat compartments to make training easier, while others are puzzle toys with an abrasive surface built in for use while playing.

Dog scratch boards are used to train dogs to file down their own nails, without the anxiety that may come from using a nail clipper or dremel. Scratch boards are great cooperative care options for dogs who don’t like having their feet touched.

Traits We Want in a Dog Scratch Pad

A product that’s designed to be pawed and scratched at should be durable enough to grind down thick dog nails, and easy to train your dog to use. Here are three things to look for when buying a dog scratch pad:

  • A durable, abrasive surface: A scratch pad needs to be strong enough to grind down even large dogs’ nails, so a strong surface is a must. We tested each scratch board on this list, and recommended the options with the most resilient material. If you need to constantly change out the sandpaper or other abrasive material, you might be less inclined to use the board often.
  • Training resources: If you’ve never taught your dog how to paw at something, training resources for a scratch pad are extremely helpful to get you started. We preferred the scratch pads that came with written and video resources, and one that we tested even comes with lifetime access to a dog trainer to answer any questions or troubleshoot the training process.
  • Extra features: Though not necessary, we did notice that extra features sometimes made training easier, depending on the dog. If you know your dog likes to dig, a built-in treat compartment can help them understand the scratch pad better. If your dog already knows how to target objects with their front paws however, extra features will likely be unnecessary.

Whole Dog Journal is reader-supported. If you purchase through links on our site we may earn a commission. Whole Dog Journal does not accept money for its food and product reviews.

Read on for the best dog scratch pads tested for Whole Dog Journal:

WDJ RatingProduct Name/MakerPriceSizes/ColorsNotes
OriginalScratchPad for Dogs$42Medium, coarse, or combo abrasion level

Single or double sided design

Option for refill package		A straightforward design, extremely durable sandpaper, free shipping, free trainer support, and a reasonable price make the Original ScratchPad the best dog scratch pad we tested.
DiggerDog nail file$79, or $66 for models with slight cosmetic imperfections +$41 for shipping to the U.S. from
Diggerdognailfie.com

$149, or $119 for models with slight cosmetic imperfections with free shipping from Amazon.		Only one size/color optionThe center treat compartment of this scratch board made it the easiest to train dogs to use. However, it’s more than times the price of our top pick stainless steel plate doesn’t need to be replaced.
De'Vora Scratch Square$35 - $55 based on sizeSmall, medium, large sizesThe medium size was too small for our tester dogs, and though this is supposed to be a 3-in-1 enrichment toy, tug toy, and nail file, none of the functions worked quite as well as they were supposed to.
Zenly Paws Dog Nail File Toy$35Only one size/color optionA complicated two-step puzzle toy that may be too difficult for some dogs. Our tester dogs had issues scratching, pushing the button to release treats, and then figuring out how to get the treats.

Whole Dog Journal’s Pick for the Best Dog Scratch Pad: Original ScratchPad for Dogs

The original Scratchpad was the top rated dog scratch pad of those reviewed.
Effective and easy to use, the Original ScratchPad for Dogs was the best of the dog scratch pads tested. Credit: Jae Thomas

Of the four models we tested, the Original ScratchPad for Dogs is the best dog scratch pad. It has a large abrasive area appropriate for all sized dogs (even large breeds), and the professional-grade sandpaper filed down our tester dogs’ nails the quickest. ScratchPad also offers a quality guarantee on the sandpaper insert on the board, and will offer a replacement pack for free if it wears out before six months.

The biggest downside of the Original ScratchPad is that it may take longer to train your dog to use it than our runner up option, the DiggerDog Nail File. We tested both options on six different dogs, and all six of our tester dogs learned how to use the DiggerDog the quickest. Some dogs that we tested the ScratchPad with didn’t quite understand targeting a flat board with their paws, but five out of the six dogs at least partially figured it out within one 30-minute session. If your dog already knows how to target objects with their front paws, it’ll likely be easy to teach them to scratch the ScratchPad.

Though it was one of the scratch boards that took longer to teach some dogs during testing, don’t let this deter you from trying. The brand has online training resources to get you and your pup started on cooperative nail care, and also offers free, unlimited lifetime training support from a professional trainer to troubleshoot any training problems that may pop up while using the product.

Runners Up for the Best Dog Scratch Pad

Diggerdog was the second best of the dog scratch pads reviewed.
The sliding treat compartment on the DiggerDog nail file made it easy for all of the tester dogs to figure out. Credit: Jae Thomas

The DiggerDog nail file is a great option for most dogs, especially dogs who don’t have any paw targeting training. The DiggerDog features a sliding compartment in the center for treats, which can be opened by the handler once a dog paws at the board. All six of our tester dogs (one of them being a nearly 11-year-old collie) easily figured out that digging at the center compartment would release the treats. Turns out that you can teach an old dog new tricks.

The DiggerDog is by far the quickest and easiest scratch pad to train your dog to use of the options we tested. In comparison to the ScratchPad however, the DiggerDog’s surface filed down dogs’ nails slightly less during testing.

The main downside of the DiggerDog is the price. Handmade in Australia, the units run $79 on the brand’s direct site and $66 for units with minor cosmetic imperfections, with shipping to the U.S. costing around $41 to most areas of the country. On Amazon, the scratch boards have free shipping, but cost $149 for brand-new models, or $119 for units with minor cosmetic imperfections. The DiggerDog prices are more than double every other option we tested, but if you have the cash and want a scratch pad your dog will learn to use almost immediately, we recommend it.

The De’Vora Scratch Square didn’t quite live up to our expectations. Though the Scratch Square is supposed to do triple duty as a nail file, a chew/tug toy and a fillable enrichment toy, we had qualms with all of the features. The actual nail file section seemed too small in the recommended medium size for our 40–45-pound tester dogs. There isn’t enough area for dogs to efficiently grind down their own nails. In comparison to the DiggerDog and the ScratchPad, the Scratch Square material was less abrasive and less effective at grinding down nails.

Dogs can potentially use the Scratch Square as a tug and chew toy, but this doesn’t seem necessary. Some user reviews remarked that their dogs ended up chewing the abrasive section of the toy instead of just the handles. The fillable enrichment section also doesn’t quite work as advertised. The idea behind this feature is to fill the middle of the Scratch Square with treats, then have your dog scratch and paw at the toy to get the treats. However, the treat compartment in this toy isn’t directly correlated to the act of scratching or digging — all of our tester dogs simply went for the middle treat compartment, bypassing the scratching/pawing altogether.

The dog scracth pad offering from Zenly was a better puzzle than nail file.
The Zenly Paws Dog Nail File was more effective as a puzzle toy than a nail file. ToyCredit: Jae Thomas

Similar to the Scratch Square, the Zenly Paws Dog Nail File Toy has too many features that didn’t quite work as expected. Built like a fillable enrichment puzzle toy, the Zenly Paws scratch pad has a central compartment that you fill with food, which acts as a big button when a dog presses it. The top of the button is covered with a sandpaper-like material. When a dog presses this button, food is released into smaller compartments that are covered with plastic doors that the dog then needs to open with its nose or paw.

The main issue with the Zenly Paws toy is that dogs who learn to scratch the sandpaper on the top may not actually put enough pressure on the button to legitimately press it and release the food. Vice versa, dogs may learn to simply press down on the button without using their nails to scratch at the sandpaper. Some of our tester dogs also had trouble with the two-step puzzle of this toy, since they needed to press the button, then lift the plastic doors to get the food. This is not a beginner level puzzle toy, and dogs who haven’t worked on two-step puzzles before will likely get frustrated or become disinterested in it.

What is Cooperative Care?

According to Nancy Bureau, DVM, CVA, FFCP of fear-free certified Left Hand Animal Hospital in Niwot, CO, “Cooperative care is partnering with the animal and allowing them to be part of the decision to proceed or not with the care you are offering.” Bureau says that to train a dog to opt into cooperative care, you can reward them with treats, toys, or praise.

The most popular method of cooperative care for dog nail trims is to use a dog scratch pad to teach your dog to grind down their own nails. Using a marker system and rewards, you can train a dog to use their front paws to dig or scratch on the abrasive surface of the scratch board. This method allows dogs to have agency in their care and can make nail trims feel more like a fun game that they’re rewarded for instead of a scary thing they’re forced to do.

How Quickly Do Dogs Learn?

By
Kim Campbell Thornton
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How quickly do dogs learn? That depends on a variety of factors, but dog training is not a one and done thing.
While basic cues can usually be mastered in six months to a year, learning is a lifelong process for dogs and their humans. Credit: fotografixx | Getty Images

When the newness of a pup wears off, it’s often replaced by a little bit of wondering—or sometimes grumbling—about how long it will be until the new family member becomes as well trained as the previous one: walking nicely on leash, coming instantly when called, not having accidents in the house, and responding to sit, down, stay, leave it, and other behaviors we teach dogs to help them fit into family life.

Can dogs learn everything they need to know in one eight-week puppy kindergarten or basic obedience class? No. That’s just a small part of your dog’s education.

Given the typical canine lifespan of 10-plus years, it’s all too easy to forget that the previous dog didn’t come fully loaded but required careful weeks, months and maybe even years of patient, consistent training and reinforcement to become the perfect dog of your memory. If you’re asking yourself “How long does it take to train a dog basic cues?” we’re here to help with information on factors that influence canine learning and how long it can take to teach particular skills.

How Learning Starts

It might seem as if neonatal puppies do nothing but eat and sleep, but from birth they are taking in scents and experiencing touch, both of which contribute to their knowledge of their surroundings, even if they can’t see or hear yet.

The critical period for learning is when pups are between 3 and 14 weeks old. By three weeks, their eyes and ears have opened and they’re mobile, if a little wobbly. They start using their paws and mouths to explore their environment.

With no preconceived notions about vacuums, cats, people in uniforms, or veterinary clinics, it’s the perfect time for them to have positive exposure to many different people, places, objects, sounds, surfaces, smells, and other environmental stimuli, known as socialization. With puppies being weaned and going to new homes when they are usually 8 weeks to 12 or more weeks old (later is often better if they’re in a situation where they receive a variety of socialization experiences), this type of activity can occur at the breeder’s home, in a foster home, or after the pup has come home with you.

Puppies should meet new people and animals and have new experiences multiple times a week rather than meeting the same neighbors and friends and going to the same places all the time. Those encounters and experiences should be so great that your puppy looks forward to anything new.

As puppies grow in experience, their brains grow too. The brain becomes larger and changes shape as its dendrites—specialized brain nerve cell structures that receive and process information—reach out to make connections with other nerve cells. By the time puppies are four months old, their brains are almost fully wired. Almost. Canine brains continue to develop until the dog is about two years old, so even if a pup looks grown-up, they still have a lot to learn, especially about impulse control.

Factors That Influence Learning

Socialization is an important element of learning, but it’s not the only one. How quickly your dog learns depends on several key factors:

  • Maternal care and stress level during pregnancy
  • Good puppy nutrition
  • Genetic predisposition
  • Learning style
  • Training techniques

A mother dog’s stress level can affect the future behavior of her unborn puppies. If they experience high-stress situations before giving birth, their pups may be more anxious or fearful in stressful or unexpected situations. These young dogs can benefit from additional or intensive socialization.

Feeding a high-quality puppy food containing DHA from fish oil has been shown in studies to improve learning ability—cognition, memory, and psychomotor skills—in puppies up to a year old. Puppies eating high-DHA diets appeared to have stronger responses to training.

Breed or mix is important because different breeds have different types of skills and intelligence. That doesn’t make certain breeds “smarter” (Border Collies, Poodles, we’re looking at you), but it can affect not only how they learn but also how quickly they learn. Here’s what to know about certain types of dogs:

  • Herding, working, and sporting dogs (including Poodles, which originated as water-retrieving dogs) tend to have a reputation for being fast learners.
  • Some dogs may seem as if they haven’t caught on to something, but often they are sitting, watching, and thinking, later demonstrating that they’ve absorbed the lesson. This type of learning is often seen in hounds and guardian dogs, says veterinarian, breeder and trainer Deb Eldredge, but any dog may learn this way.
  • Independent dogs tend to have good problem-solving skills. Sometimes that makes it difficult to stay a step ahead of them.
  • Toy dogs and non-sporting dogs—the latter group being a miscellaneous assortment of unrelated breeds—are just as smart and capable of learning as bigger dogs. Don’t neglect training them just because they’re small, cute, or lack a discernible skill!

Puppies in general are “sponges,” learning things quickly—often the things we don’t want them to learn—but they also have short attention spans. Short, sweet training sessions that end on a high note are more effective than long, intensive ones. Rewards help dogs to understand what you want and to be more excited about repeating a particular behavior.

The presence of another dog as a teacher’s aide can also be helpful. It’s not unusual for dogs to mimic what they see other dogs doing, especially if they see those dogs being rewarded for a behavior. This has frequently worked well in my dog-training life.

The power of instinctive behaviors is a factor, too. Beagles, for instance, have great nose intelligence, but they’re probably not going to be very good at herding sheep, says Minnesota dog trainer and Beagle owner Denise Nord.

Training Time

Theory is all well and good, but how long does it take to train a dog on basic cues? The answer—“It depends”—is unsatisfying, but bear in mind that dogs learn most quickly with practice and patience. Start with easy behaviors and build on your—and your dog’s—successes.

Sit may well be the behavior that dogs learn most easily and quickly. It’s a natural action, making it easy to “capture” by clicking and treating when the dog is already in position or luring the dog into position with a treat. Using those techniques, dogs can learn “Sit” within the space of a few minutes.

The trick is then putting a name to the act and practicing and reinforcing it over time so that muscle memory kicks in immediately when dogs hear the cue. That takes longer, from a few weeks to a few months. Practice in different situations, different places, around different people, and around other animals: this is how you “proof” your dog so that response to “Sit” is immediate, no matter what. It pays off throughout life with your dog sitting at the door, to greet people, before meals, or as part of an agility or rally competition, to name just a few of its uses.

Similar techniques work well with “Down” and “Stand.” I find it easiest to capture a down rather than luring a dog into place, but a good mantra is “Every dog is different.” Do what works for you and your dog. Like “Sit,” it takes time and practice to get a reliable response every time.

A more complex behavior to teach is walking on leash without pulling. Unless you’re training for obedience competition, there’s no need to require a dog to walk exactly at your side all the time, but they should be well-mannered enough that you don’t have to worry about being pulled over or tripped by them.

Achieving that is a lot more involved than attaching a leash to a collar and expecting the dog to go where you want, when you want. Expect reliable loose-leash walking to take up to a year. A five- or six-month-old puppy in the throes of adolescence is going to start doing some backsliding as they test their position in the family and your patience.

Loose-leash walking must be proofed in many different places and situations, simply because puppies change so much during their first year. “What they find distracting today may not be distracting tomorrow,” Nord says. “What you get in your backyard is going to be very different than what you get walking down the street or in a class or at a large event.”

What about housetraining? A schedule is important, but it also takes time for a puppy’s body to mature so they can “hold it” for longer periods. Plan on six months to a year to achieve full reliability. For more information, see “How to House Train a Puppy.”

Class and Homework

As long as they’ve had their first set of vaccinations, puppies can often participate in a kindergarten class as early as 8 weeks old. But don’t wait until then to start teaching your new dog the basics. That can begin on day one at home. Your puppy or new dog should look to you as the provider of all good things and fun times, and that’s what training should be.

While training can take months, it doesn’t require a lot of time in the moment. As mentioned above, puppies have a short attention span. Spending a few minutes—or even as little as 30 seconds—training several times a day helps to build a strong foundation for success as a puppy and throughout life. It also ensures that training becomes a routine part of the day.

As you work with your new dog, pay attention to how they react to the environment. Every dog approaches things differently. If a newly acquired puppy or adult dog seems anxious, give them some time to settle in. Start with easy, fun activities that allow them to be successful and build confidence. Then their brains can work at full capacity.

How long does it take to fully train a dog? Plan on six months to a year to teach the basics and feel confident in your dog’s behavior. To build a rock-solid response in any situation? That can take longer, but it’s worth the effort. Proofing helps dogs learn to adjust to variables in the environment and respond appropriately.

What experts call “behavioral leveling” typically occurs when dogs become familiar with their environment and understand what’s expected of them. For most dogs, that seems to magically take place when they’re 18 to 24 months old. Or not. Plenty of dogs act puppylike well into adulthood, not achieving a grown-up brain until they’re five or six years old, if ever.

But no matter when your dog achieves maturity, learning is a life-long endeavor. Continuing to practice a dog’s skills and teach new ones throughout life, even into old age, helps to keep their brains supple and may well help to stave off dementia.

Natural Flea Repellent for Dogs

By
CJ Puotinen
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Natural flea repellent can avert many of the issues that occur when your dog has fleas.
Getting rid of fleas, which can cause a host of problems including itching and allergic reactions, is often a time-consuming process. Credit: Neonci | Getty Images

Fleas are among the most irritating and harmful parasites that attack dogs. They can cause nonstop itching, scratching, skin abrasions, infections, flea-allergy dermatitis, and the transmission of tapeworms and diseases. Natural flea repellent for dogs can help, and there is a range of natural remedies to choose from.

Why Are Fleas So Hard to Eliminate?

Most fleas live for six weeks but under ideal conditions, they can last up to a year. Female fleas can lay 500 or more eggs that hatch into larvae, hide in dark, protected areas like cracks and crevices, then survive in pupal cocoons for up to five months before emerging as adults. According to the Journal of the American Holistic Veterinary Medical Association, the most effective toxin-free way to address flea infestations is with Integrated Pest Management. This approach focuses on flea behavior, pet health, outdoor and indoor environments, and safe (or at least low-risk) flea-killing treatments.

Start with Your Dog’s Health

The AHVMA Journal has published many descriptions of raw-fed pets who are not attractive to fleas and whose immune systems protect them from common illnesses. In her January 2003 article, “Eliminate Fleas without Poisons: Integrated Pest Management is a nontoxic way to effectively control fleas,” Kathleen Dudley described steps taken by holistic veterinarians, starting with diet changes that have kept pets flea-free even in locations with warm temperatures and high humidity, which are ideal conditions for fleas.

Supplements That Might Help

In addition to improving your dog’s diet by adding fresh, raw ingredients and better-quality proteins, consider adding supplements that help repel fleas. As Dudley notes, individual responses vary, so discontinue the product if you don’t see improvement within a month.

Garlic

Despite warnings to the contrary, garlic is not toxic to dogs the way onions are. Most garlic warnings are based on a November 2000 study published in the American Journal of Veterinary Research in which 4 test dogs were given extremely large doses (1.25 milliliters of garlic extract per kilogram of body weight, the equivalent of 5 grams of whole garlic per kilogram) through a feeding tube every day for 7 days. For a 50-pound dog, this would be a daily dose of 5-1/2 teaspoons of garlic extract or 4 ounces (approximately 24 cloves) of whole garlic. Although none of the dogs developed unusual symptoms and none were diagnosed with hemolytic anemia, changes in their red blood cells led the researchers to conclude that garlic is dangerous to dogs. In enormous quantities fed for extended periods, it might be, but the study’s conclusions don’t apply to small amounts routinely given to dogs.

Many veterinarians who prescribe garlic for dogs with fleas recommend 1/2 clove of fresh raw crushed garlic per 15 to 20 pounds of body weight. When introducing garlic to your dog, start with smaller amounts and increase gradually. Garlic doesn’t kill fleas, so adding it to your dog’s diet won’t make an immediate difference, but after a month of daily garlic, your dog should be far less attractive to fleas.

B Vitamins and Brewer’s Yeast

Vitamin B-complex with vitamin B1 (thiamine) has helped many dogs repel fleas, and it can be given as a supplement or as brewer’s yeast. Brewer’s yeast is a single-celled fungus used in beer brewing, hence its name. It’s a rich source of nutrients and generally considered safe for dogs, though some dogs with compromised immune systems or taking certain prescription medications should avoid it. Check with your veterinarian for advice. Despite its name, brewer’s yeast (Saccharomyces cerevisiae) will not cause or worsen canine yeast infections as it’s a different species from the Malassezia pachydermatis yeast that causes skin infections in dogs. Start with small amounts to avoid digestive discomfort and gassiness, and gradually increase to the product’s label dose for your dog’s weight. Discontinue use at once if your dog has an adverse reaction and discontinue after one month if the product is ineffective.

Some supplements designed for pets contain garlic, brewer’s yeast, or both, such as Springtime Bug Off for Dogs, NaturVet Brewers Yeast Powder, Guardian’s Choice Flea Chews for Dogs, and Pet Honesty Flea & Tick Defense Chews.  

Try a Natural Flea Spray

Flea-killing solutions that do not contain harsh chemicals are becoming more popular as pet owners look for products that are toxin-free, safe, and effective. Wondercide Flea, Tick, and Mosquito Spray, Cedarcide Bug Spray, and Vet’s Best Flea and Tick Spray use essential oils to repel adult fleas and kill adults, eggs, and larvae. These products can be applied to a dog’s coat and worked in with your fingers (no protective gloves needed), plus sprayed around bedding and wherever your dog spends time. All three companies make spot-on or brush-in products that can be used in place of systemic flea and tick treatments plus flea sprays for outdoor kennels and yards.

To make your own natural flea spray, fill a spray bottle with 2 cups water. In a small glass combine 2 fluid ounces (4 tablespoons) vodka or other distilled alcohol with 50 drops (1/2 teaspoon) of cedarwood, eucalyptus, peppermint, lemongrass, or lemon essential oils in any combination. Add the blend to your spray bottle, shake well, and spray a fine mist over your dog’s coat and work it in with your fingers or a brush, avoiding the face. Spray on and around your dog’s bed and wherever your dog spends time indoors.

It’s a good idea to offer fragrances to your dog before applying them. Simply place a small amount of essential oil or any scented product on your hand, then hold your hand out for your dog’s inspection. If your dog turns away, try a different product or fragrance.

Set a Light Trap

An easy way monitor your flea population is with an electric flea trap. The TERRO® Refillable Flea Trap, KILSACO Flea Trap, and WILKKS Flea Trap combine flea-attracting yellow-green light bulbs with sticky pads to capture adult fleas. For a simple do-it-yourself trap, fill a shallow bowl with water, add 2 tablespoons liquid dish soap, and agitate the water to create foamy bubbles. Fleas don’t drown in plain water because their bodies aren’t heavy enough to break the water’s surface tension, but soap reduces surface tension so the fleas sink and drown. Place the dish beside or under a directional lamp or table lamp (using a yellow-green colored bulb if you can find one) and leave it on overnight. Empty and refill the dish daily.

Diatomaceous Earth for Fleas

Also known as silicon dioxide, food-grade diatomaceous earth (which is different from diatomaceous earth used in swimming pool filters) is a nontoxic insecticide powder that damages the bodies of fleas and other parasites so they dehydrate and die. Brands sold for pet use include Wholistic Pet Organics Diatomaceous Earth, Lumino Diatomaceous Earth for Pets & People, and Flea Away Diatomaceous Earth for Dogs.

Diatoms are microscopic plants that live in fresh and sea water. Ground into a powder, their glass shells form diatomaceous earth, which can be taken internally as a treatment for parasites or applied topically to kill fleas and ticks. Before applying diatomaceous earth to floors and furniture, remove electronic equipment or protect it with plastic. Because diatomaceous earth can irritate the lungs and respiratory tract, wear a mask, and keep children and pets away while applying it to floors, dog beds, and areas where fleas congregate. This includes under furniture, under beds, along floorboards, on upholstery, and on carpets. Work it into carpets, floors, and other surfaces with a push broom or dust mop. Although small amounts are unlikely to harm your vacuum cleaner, consider using a shop vacuum with a water reservoir that catches dust or use a broom and mop when cleaning the residue.

To apply diatomaceous earth to your dry (not wet) dog as a flea powder, wear a mask and create one for your pet with a scarf that covers his nose and mouth. Use approximately 1/2 teaspoon of diatomaceous earth per 10 pounds of your dog’s weight, such as 3 teaspoons (1 tablespoon) for a 30-pound dog or 6 teaspoons (2 tablespoons) for a 60-pound dog. Sprinkle small amounts into your dog’s fur starting at the neck and moving down the spine, massaging it into the skin. Be sure to include all areas except the face. For best results with diatomaceous earth, start with small quantities. Reapply to dry hair after bathing or swimming.

Treating the Environment

An important part of Integrated Pest Management is removing fleas in all stages of life from your house and yard. Indoors this means thorough vacuuming at least once a day, frequent washing of your dog’s bedding, toys, area rugs, towels, and other washable items, and the daily application of flea control sprays. If your vacuum cleaner uses a bag, replace it frequently.

Steam cleaning kills adult fleas and larvae, so if you have a serious flea infestation, rent a steam cleaner or hire a professional to treat carpets and upholstered furniture. The treatment can be repeated every one or two months as needed. Continue to vacuum daily between treatments.

If you live in a humid area, removing moisture with dehumidifiers can interrupt flea reproduction because flea eggs require at least 50% humidity in order to develop and hatch.

Flea Busters RX for Fleas Powder is applied like diatomaceous earth but it’s made of finely milled borate that is statically charged. The borate damages flea larvae so that they dehydrate and die. This product should not be used on pets, only on carpets, bare floors, furniture, baseboards, under beds, and wherever your dog spends time.

Treating the Yard and Outdoors

If you have a lawn, keep it short, mow the grass frequently, rake leaves, and trim weeds to prevent fleas from flourishing in damp, dark areas. Many gardeners use diatomaceous earth to protect plants from slugs, worms, and other pests, and it can be sprinkled wherever fleas might live. Reapply diatomaceous earth weekly, after windy or rainy weather, and after watering your lawn or garden. Yard sprays like those described above can be applied to all parts of your yard to reduce its flea population.

In addition, consider purchasing beneficial nematodes, which look like tiny worms, to eliminate flea larvae in your yard and garden. The nematodes used for flea control do not harm plants, animals, or people. For information see Fleabusters® Nematodes or Flea Defeater Nematodes.

It may take three or four months to control a flea infestation, so be patient. Always treat your home, pets, and yard at the same time to prevent reinfestation. And when fleas are under control, remain vigilant and proactive so you can prevent them from returning.

Why Do Dogs Suck on Blankets?

By
Joan Merriam
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Dogs that suck on, chew, or lick blankets may be seeking a sense of security.
While many dog who begin sucking on blankets as puppies grow out of the behavior, some continue into adulthood. Credit: smrm1977 | Getty Images

There are some things our dogs do that are a complete mystery to many of us, especially when it’s a behavior we’ve never seen before. To me, one of the strangest is blanket-sucking (or blanket-chewing, depending upon the dog). In all the dogs I’ve had and known, I’ve never seen this behavior before so from my perspective, it’s totally inexplicable.

And yet, there is an explanation. Rather, several explanations.

What IS This Sucking Behavior?

We’ve all seen human babies sucking on pacifiers, their thumbs, or even on blankets and child experts tell us that this kind of instinctive sucking calms babies and makes them feel more secure. The same is likely true for puppies, who are born with an innate need to suckle and knead. Even after the mother dog has long since stopped producing milk, some pups will attempt to suckle, perhaps as a way to soothe themselves.

In addition, puppies will often look to something similar to their mother’s soft skin and fur for comfort: something like a supple, velvety stuffed toy or blanket.  Most of the time, a puppy will grow out of this behavior, but what happens if it doesn’t? What happens if your adult dog continues to knead her old threadbare blanket or suck on her ancient stuffed hippopotamus? Should you be worried that you’ve inadvertently created an canine psychoneurotic?

Is Blanket Sucking a Harmless Behavior?

The answer in most cases, there’s nothing inherently wrong with an adult dog who is still mouthing and kneading her blanket or toy.  We’ve all had dogs that choose one particular stuffed toy as their inseparable companion: years ago, my dog Casey claimed a stuffed penguin that he carried around everywhere, even to the construction site of the house I was building where it got run over by a tractor, dropped in a culvert, smeared with concrete, and buried in three feet of dirt . . . yet even then, even when it was totally dilapidated, he refused to give it up.

Gwen Bailey, author of more than a dozen books on dog behavior and member of the U.K.’s Association of Pet Behaviour Counsellors, says this kind of “object-sucking” is usually quite harmless, the canine equivalent of a toddler who inexplicably latches onto a favorite “blankie” and carries it everywhere. She explains that while this behavior in adult dogs isn’t terribly common, it’s not deviant by any stretch of the imagination; it’s also not breed-specific, so you’re just as likely to see it in a Great Dane as in a Dachshund.

If, however, your dog’s blanket- or toy-sucking behavior is persistent and unremitting, and you’re unable to distract him from it, the behavior may have become compulsive. If you’re concerned about this possibility, talk with your veterinarian about finding a Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist (CAAB), a board-certified veterinary behaviorist, or a Certified Professional Dog Trainer (CPDT) with specialized training in treating compulsive behavior.

There is one other situation where a caretaker needs to be concerned: so-called “flank-sucking,” which is especially prevalent in Doberman Pinschers and Weimaraners.  Flank-sucking—when a dog repetitively sucks or holds in his mouth a piece of its own flank skin–is a type of canine compulsive disorder that can cause physical injury to the dog’s skin, and calls for veterinary intervention.

And Then There’s Chewing

Some dogs don’t suck on their blankets, they chew them. Constantly. Until the blanket is, as the Coroner sings in the Wizard of Oz, not only “merely dead, but really most sincerely dead.”  Again, this isn’t necessarily harmful, unless your dog is actually eating the blanket or toy. In that case, you need to find a way to keep him away from those objects, and provide an alternative like a stuffed Kong, an all-natural edible dog chew, or dental bones. Remember, though, that just because a dog treat may be edible, that doesn’t necessarily mean it’s safe, making supervision a must. For instance, if your dog breaks off a large chunk of a chew and swallows it, there’s a risk of him either choking or developing an obstruction.

As long as your dog is simply chewing and not devouring, there’s no need to worry, but it’s important to teach her what is and isn’t appropriate to chew on. If she’s a blanket-chewer, restrict her to her own blanket, not the one on your or your child’s bed. The same is true with toys versus things like shoes or clothes. If the chewing turns destructive—you come home to a couch that’s in tatters, or your down pillow looks like a deflated balloon—then you have an entirely different problem on your hands. Adult dogs can engage in destructive chewing for a variety of reasons, including separation anxiety, boredom, anxiety, or as a coping mechanism. Again, you need to speak to a behaviorist to get to the root of the problem and find a solution.

What About Licking?

Some dogs are inveterate lickers. They don’t suck their blankets, they don’t chew their blankets, they simply lick them. Constantly.

It’s important to remember that dogs explore the world with their noses and mouths. Often, they lick objects to simply understand and gather information about them. At the same time, licking blankets, toys, and their beds can be just as comforting and soothing to your dog as sucking. It also releases endorphins—those “feel-good” hormones—that help them relax and feel comfortable.

But like excessive chewing, dogs can also engage in nonstop licking out of pure boredom, which can easily lead to obsession. Any behavior that continues for a length of time should be discussed with your veterinarian, as there could be an underlying medical condition that needs to be addressed.

In the end, whether your dog is sucking her blanket, kneading it, chewing on it, or licking it, chances are there’s nothing wrong—she’s just trying to make herself feel good!

How to Get Sap Out of Dog Fur

By
CJ Puotinen
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0
Getting sap out of dog fur can prevent matting and other ailments.
In addition to its potential for matting coats, tree sap can cause skin irritation, hot spots, and allergic reactions in dogs. Credit: Oline Aukrust | Getty Images

Tree sap is called the life blood of trees because it transports nutrients between roots and branches. Pine trees and some other conifers release pitch that collects on their bark year-round while other sap-extruding trees are sticky in spring and summer. Dogs encounter tree sap when brushing against trees or when stepping on pitch that has fallen from broken branches.

As a do-it-yourself project, pitch removal requires time and patience, so take an objective look at the situation. Is there a small amount of pitch in your dog’s hair? Or is there a lot? Is your pup able to sit or lie still for half an hour or more? Do you enjoy grooming your dog? If the time isn’t right, if there are large, tangled, glued-together patches of fur, or if there’s pitch on your dog’s face—especially near the eyes or ears—consider calling a groomer or your veterinarian for help.

What Not to Use

Although pitch-dissolving products work well on automobiles, concrete, asphalt, and other surfaces, industrial cleaners can be toxic to dogs. For pet use, avoid astringent solvents, chemical detergents, petroleum products, nail polish remover, paint thinner, turpentine, and alcohol.

Why Sap or Pitch Can Be Dangerous

Some tree saps are toxic if ingested, such as sap from certain pines. The symptoms of sap poisoning include drooling, loss of appetite, lethargy, and vomiting. Ingested sap can cause gastrointestinal problems even if the tree isn’t toxic, and when attached to a dog’s fur, any sap can lead to itching and inflammation.

Because sap can irritate the skin, dogs often scratch and lick affected areas. Sticky sap adhering to a dog’s paws can cause discomfort and potential injury. In some cases, sap causes respiratory problems in dogs. Sap from pines and other conifers contain volatile organic compounds that can irritate the respiratory tract. The main problem for most dogs is that if left untreated, tree sap can lead to skin irritation, hot spots, allergic reactions, and rashes.

The most obvious problem with tree sap in a dog’s coat is that it causes matting and tangling. If not removed promptly, sap can harden, create pain or discomfort, trap environmental debris in the coat, and trigger skin infections.

What to Use

If your pitch-removal project seems do-able, assemble these basic ingredients:

  • a hair dryer
  • vegetable oil
  • a rubber-tipped bath brush, slicker brush, or wide-toothed comb
  • small, sharp scissors
  • towels
  • shampoo
  • treats
  1. Start by setting your hair dryer to low heat to soften hardening pitch. Hard sap is difficult to remove, so this step helps preserve your dog’s coat. Test the dryer setting on your arm to be sure it isn’t too hot, keep the dryer a safe distance from your dog’s skin, and use a gentle speed. Your goal is to soften the pitch and make it flexible without harming your dog.
  2. Apply oil to the softened tree sap, which will help you separate it from your dog’s hair. This step can be messy, so have your dog sit or lie in a crate or on an old towel. Recommended oils for sap removal include jojoba oil, olive oil, coconut oil, sweet almond oil, avocado oil, and other vegetable oils. Peanut butter (xylitol-free and smooth rather than crunchy) is often recommended, but most dogs want to lick it off, so that can be a complication. The oil needs time to interact with the sap, so keep your dog still while you wait. Reward your dog with treats, praise, or a favorite toy during this important step.
  3. Gently massage, brush, or comb the oiled sap. Use your fingers to work the oil into softened sap by massaging the affected area, rubbing the oiled hair with a scrubbing motion to help separate hair strands. This can take a while. Gently brush the coat with a bath brush, slicker brush, or wide-toothed comb to help the strands separate, but don’t pull or tug glued-together hairs. It may take more than one heat-oil-massage treatment to break the sap down so you can remove it.
  4. If necessary, use scissors. Kitchen or poultry shears are not appropriate for sticky mat removal. Instead, use small, sharp scissors to remove tiny sections at a time. Thinning shears, used by professional groomers, make partial cuts that remove hair without creating obvious gaps in the coat. You can achieve a similar effect by focusing on small areas and teasing them apart with your comb and occasional scissoring. Skip this step if the pitch is close to your dog’s skin in order to prevent accidental cuts that might become infected.
  5. Is there pitch on your dog’s paws? Tree sap that sticks to your dog’s paw pads can irritate the skin and cause obsessive licking and chewing. Remove sap that’s caught on or between paw pads as soon as you notice it. If massaging the paws with oil doesn’t remove the sap, call your veterinarian or groomer because sticky paws will continue to collect dust, gravel, plant debris, and other potential irritants that can lead to painful limping or skin infections.
  6. Time for a bath. After successfully removing tree sap, prepare a bath to remove excess oil and tree sap residue. Use a mild shampoo and work it into your dog’s coat, checking to be sure all traces of the sticky sap have disappeared. Rinse well to remove all traces of soap or shampoo. Dry the coat well with towels, your blow dryer, or a warm outdoor breeze. When dry or almost dry, brush the coat well. For more, see Tips for Giving a Dog a Bath at Home and How to Bathe Your Dog.
  7. Follow up with daily brushings or at least daily inspections, checking for new sap accumulations. Avoid sap-producing trees, and if your dog has recently stepped on tree sap, use dog booties or paw wax to prevent future exposures. Regular grooming and frequent body checks will help you catch and repair pitch problems before they become serious.

Whoa! Stop Pulling

By
Nancy Kerns
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2
A Jack Russel terrier determinedly pulls on a leash.

When I was about 5 years old, my family moved from the suburbs to a home in the country, and a couple years later, my parents bought my 13-year-old sister a horse—despite knowing nothing about horses themselves. Dusty was fast, spirited, and loved to run. He was also not much more than just lightly trained, and he became locally famous (and infamous in my extended family of dozens of visiting “city cousins”) for running away with his novice riders.

My sister was able to ride Dusty successfully, but it took me years to be able to ride him away from our property without walking home on my own two feet; at some point in every ride, he’d get impatient with my fearful, tight grip on his reins and say, “To heck with this, I’m headed home!” He’d shove his head down (against the pain of the bit in his mouth) and just take off running, headed for home. Only the very best riders could manage to stay on him during his high-speed dashes through orchards and across roads back to our barn.

Now, if you were a confident, balanced rider, Dusty was the most fun horse in the world to ride. He’d go anywhere you pointed him, could turn or spin on a dime, and was super fast; he loved to run and won many a match race against the larger horses owned by other kids in our rural farming community. But riding him successfully was all about keeping the reins loose and letting him run occasionally; if you held the reins in your hands with a frightened death grip and tried to keep him at a walk or trot the whole ride, pretty soon he’d (figuratively) say, “Nope! I’m out of here!” and take off into a run, headed for home.

Eventually, over the course of five or six years, I learned to stick like a bur on Dusty’s back, whether he was saddled or I was riding bareback, no matter how fast he ran. And I learned how to win races: By tightening the reins a little and yelling in a panicked, high voice, “Whoa Dusty! Whoa! Whoa!!!” When he heard those magic words, he’d put his ears back and run like the wind. Fifty years later I still laugh out loud at the memory of what we kid riders inadvertently taught our little spitfire racehorse: that he could run the fastest when he heard those words.

What’s this got to do with dogs?

When I see someone whose dog is pulling hard against a tight leash, I often think to myself, “Whoa Dusty, whoa!” Sometimes, the dog and their person have both become habituated to a nearly constant battle of wills and strength, resulting in walks that are not fun for either one. And while the owner will fixate on the dog’s pulling, identifying this as the major problem in the dog’s training, the fact is, the owner is pulling even harder! It’s necessary, they will say, to keep the dog from doing whatever it is that the dog wants to do—which is anything but being with the owner!

Most dog owners in this situation buy a pinch or shock collar or a harness that tightens or gives them a mechanical advantage in the pulling competition—or they hire a trainer who takes this tack with their dog. The dog is forced to comply, but looks unhappy and is still outwardly focused, not paying any attention to his handler. The owners in this common scenario may have “won” the battle but they lose the war, because walking the dog requires them to inflict pain on the tuned-out dog—no fun for either dog or handler.

The fix for this is not simple; it generally requires a number of changes to how the owner handles the dog. A good trainer will teach the owner how to get, reward, and keep their dog’s attention and cooperation. If the dog is reactive to other dogs, the trainer can teach the owner how to teach the dog how to disengage his attention from them and be rewarded for, instead, staying connected to his handler. Most owners need to be taught to let the dog have some moments of sheer doggie enjoyment from the walk in exchange for their cooperation. And above all, a good trainer will bring the owner’s attention to how she handles the leash and get her to stop pulling!

In retrospect, I’m glad that my parents didn’t have money to throw at the problem of our runaway horse; they never hired an abusive trainer or bought harsher bits for Dusty’s bridle, to force him through pain into compliance with a slow ride. My sister (and eventually I, too) had to figure out on our own how to ride Dusty in a way that suited him—by not pulling on the reins constantly, and by giving him some opportunities to have the kind of fun he wanted in an outing. The result is that we no longer got left in Dusty’s dust as he ran home.

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