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Treatment for Your Dog’s Ear Hematomas

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[Updated January 10, 2019]

If eyes are the windows to the soul, then the ears are its curtains: Whether they are minimalist Roman shades or fringed swags that would make Scarlett O’Hara blush, a dog’s ears frame her face and set off her expression. In other words, while they have a utilitarian function (and an important one at that) they have a cosmetic one, too. So imagine my dismay when I noticed that my handsome old Rhodesian Ridgeback, Blitz – he of the two gorgeously symmetrical triangles held crisply and smartly against his graying face – had what appeared to be a frankfurter growing on the edge of his right ear.

dog ear hematoma

The purplish, sausage-like lump turned out to be an aural hematoma. An accumulation of blood in the ear flap resulting from a broken blood vessel, hematomas are common in drop-eared breeds like mine, though they occur in dogs of all ear types. They are believed to be caused by trauma to the relatively thin tissue of the ear flap, or pinna, often as a result of head-shaking.

The good news about hematomas is that, if left untreated, they are eventually reabsorbed. They will not burst – even though by all appearance they look ready to pop – and the dog is left no worse for wear, except for having to endure the discomfort of a large blood blister weighing down her ear. (There is a great diversity of opinion about just how painful ear hematomas are for dogs, and the only ones who know for sure aren’t talking.)

The bad news is that allowing nature to take its course can have aesthetic implications: As the blood-filled ear flap heals and contracts, scar tissue often develops, causing thickening and wrinkling that make it often noticeably different from its non-clotted counterpart. It’s sort of the doggie version of “cauliflower ear” in boxers (the pugilists, not the canines), whose battered outer ears can become swollen and misshapen, resembling the texture of the vegetable that lent its name to the condition.

In Blitz’s case, I took him to a veterinarian whose expertise in traditional Chinese medicine I greatly admire. But acupuncture and herbs were not options in this case. “Chinese medicine is good for a lot of things,” the vet said with a smile. “But not everything.” His preferred treatment for aural hematomas was to insert a small drain into the ear, which we did. Blitz’s hematoma eventually resolved, and his ear was slightly smaller and a little thicker than it had been before. Not an ideal outcome, but not a terrible one, either.

chihuahua ear hematoma

That seems to be the general theme when it comes to aural hematomas: There are many different methods for treating them, and none is perfect. The overriding challenge is that the hematoma separates the skin from the ear cartilage – sort of like a calzone, to use another food comparison. The inability to get those layers to reattach is what causes the ear to shrivel and become misshapen.

Below are some methods for treating hematomas. Some are mainstays that most veterinarians will recognize; others are relatively new approaches that try to maximize the effort to get the skin and cartilage to start talking to each other again, and one has been used as far back as the time of the Pharaohs – on humans, at least. Remember, though, that taking action is a choice, not a necessity: If you’re okay with that frankfurter shriveling up into a cauliflower, then you can do nothing. Your dog probably couldn’t care less.

Early Intervention

For those who like to incorporate alterative modalities into their dog’s health care, holistic medicine offers maddeningly few options for quickly clearing up hematomas to avoid scarring. Shawn Messonnier, DVM, of Paws & Claws Animal Hospital in Plano, Texas, says he has had “pretty good success” using the homeopathic remedies hypernicum and arnica on smaller hematomas – those that take up one-fourth or less of the ear. “Very often those remedies will help resolve hematomas when they are really small,” he says. But as time progresses, and the hematoma begins to clot and harden, homeopathy can be less effective.

Because eosinophils (a type of white blood cell), and mast cell infiltrations have been found in hematomas, some experts speculate that the blood blister may be a component of an allergic reaction. Veterinarians who use only conventional medicine sometimes prescribe steroids such as prednisone to reduce inflammation, though a 2011 review of treatments for aural hematomas in dogs for the Evidence-Based Veterinary Medical Association found the effectiveness of steroids in resolving hematomas and preventing their recurrence to be inconclusive. Some practitioners use cold-laser treatments to help shrink the hematoma and destroy inflammatory cells.

Ways to Treat a Dog’s Ear Hematoma

Dr. Leni Kaplan, a faculty member in the Community Practice Service of Cornell University College of Veterinary Medicine in Ithaca, New York, says if she does decide to treat a hematoma, she will insert a small sterile tube to help the ear drain. (Some vets use a specific draining tube called a cannula; Dr. Kaplan prefers a bovine teat cannula, used to treat mastitis in cows, or just sterile IV tubing sewn inside the ear.)

More important than the kind of drain used is the follow-up care that the dog receives. “The main thing is that the owners have to gently massage the ear” to keep the hematoma draining, Dr. Kaplan explains. “If the owner the doesn’t do any home care, it’s a bloody mess.”

The purpose of a drain or cannula is to keep fluid moving out of the hematoma so that it reduces in size, but a downside is that this method doesn’t do much to compress the skin and cartilage together.

A new surgical approach by Rachel Seibert, DVM, and Karen M. Tobias, DVM, DACVS, at the University of Tennessee, takes the idea of having an active drain a step further by creating negative pressure to constantly suck out liquid even as it brings the separated layers together. With their technique, a large needle is inserted into the hematoma to empty it, then a vacutainer (a sterile tube that creates a vacuum so blood can be drawn out easily) is attached to the ear using a butterfly catheter.

“We started using this technique because it is less invasive than surgery, does not require general anesthesia, and has a similar success rate to surgery without the risks,” Dr. Seibert explains. “The reason this technique works is that it is successful at maintaining contact between the skin and cartilage with constant negative suction.”

Dr. Seibert says the success rate with the negative-pressure drain is similar to treatment with drainage followed by steroid injections, with a recurrence rate of 22 percent. “The pinna is typically minimally distorted or wrinkled using this technique,” she says, “and most cases should resolve within seven to 10 days.”

Though the technique is fairly straightforward, challenges include successfully bandaging the whole affair so that it stays on but doesn’t restrict the dog’s breathing; and making sure the owner replaces the tube at regular intervals, because once it fills to a certain point, suction is impaired.

Surgical Removal of Ear Hematomas

In the quest to get the skin and cartilage of the ear to reattach, many (if not most) veterinarians opt for surgery. The drawback to any kind of surgery is that the dog must undergo anesthesia, and post-operative recovery is relatively more painful.

The procedure involves opening the hematoma surgically with an incision on the inner flap of the ear running in a wavy line; the incision drains the hematoma. Then the incision is stitched up, and more stitches are used in what looks just like a “quilting” technique, with knots on both sides of the ear flap, preventing any part of the ear flap from puffing up with fluid again. Many small stitches are used so there are no large unstitched areas where the blood can accumulate again. (Some vets actually stitch shirt buttons to both sides of the ear to exert more and wider pressure on the flap, literally pressing it together!)

Tina Wolfe, DVM, of Poland Veterinary Centre in Poland, Ohio, prefers the incisional method for a hematoma that is chronic – when it has become firm as a result of clotting and is beginning to be reabsorbed.

“The incisional technique allows for a more complete evacuation of the hematoma once a significant clot has formed, which can help decrease the rate of recurrence,” she explains, noting that the sutures help to promote scar tissue and decrease the space for an additional hematoma to form.

For acute hematomas, where a significant clot hasn’t yet developed, Dr. Wolfe opts for a different surgical technique. With a small skin-biopsy punch – which is traditionally used to extract small circles of tissue to be sent to a laboratory for analysis – she makes a series of small staggered holes along the hematoma on the inner surface of the ear flap. After the hematoma has drained, she places a single stitch through each of the small hole punches, tacking the exposed cartilage to the skin without closing the hole.

Newly formed acute hematomas “are more soft and fluid in nature and will drain readily though the biopsy sites, which allows for continued drainage of the hematoma,” she explains. “The punch-biopsy method also tends to have a high success rate, is quickly and easily performed, and has a good cosmetic result.”

As with the quilting technique, no bandages are necessary, though an Elizabethan collar or other protective device is recommended to make sure the dog does not scratch or shake the ear.

“I prefer either of these techniques to drainage alone or cannulas due to higher rates of success and cosmetic outcomes,” Dr. Wolfe concludes. “Both the incisional and punch-biopsy methods have a lower rate of recurrence than cannulas and needle drainage because the sutures help to promote scar tissue and decrease the space for an additional hematoma to form.”

In a paper published in July, Drs. András Gyorffry and Attila Szijártó of Semmelweis University in Budapest, Hungary, outlined still another operative technique for aural hematomas. With this approach, the hematoma is opened with an incision on the inner flap of the ear running perpendicular to the ear tip. Absorbable sutures that run parallel to the wound are then placed inside the ear tissue, binding together the cartilage and subcutaneous tissue, but not penetrating the skin. After all the stitching is done, the two edges of the incision do not meet, but rather are left a millimeter or two apart, permitting fluid to continue to drain as the ear heals from the inside out.

In a retrospective study of 23 dogs with aural hematomas that were treated with this technique between 2006 and 2012, the authors reported that all but two – or more than 90 percent – healed without any deformity to the ear, and none required additional surgery or had a recurrence. The two cases of misshapen ears were due to a bacterial infection in one and misaligned stitches that permitted wrinkling in the other.

“The new method offers a minor risk of postoperative complications while accomplishing high healing rates,” the authors concluded in their paper.

Leeches for Ear Hematomas

We’ve saved the best – or at least, the most unconventional – for last. In a word: leeches.

These slithery, blood-sucking worms have been used for centuries, dating back to ancient Egypt. Even today in human medicine, leeches are used to drain pooled blood after a digit has been surgically reattached, to treat varicose veins and blocked arteries, and to lessen pain from osteoarthritis. And in dogs, they are most commonly used to treat ear hematomas.

Shelley R. Epstein, VMD, CVH, of Wilmington Animal Hospital in Delaware, has blogged about her experience with leech therapy, formally called hirudotherapy. “No anesthesia is needed; the leeches inject a numbing chemical into the site,” she writes. “It may take a month for the hematoma to fully heal, but the ear is usually normal in appearance afterward.”

According to Biopharm in Hendy, South Wales (“suppliers of leeches since 1812”), ear hematomas in dogs usually call for two to three leeches, and the sooner they are applied, the better. “Leeches can still be used on hematomas that are slightly older and firmer, but in these cases two leech treatments may be required in order to best decongest the blood,” the company explains on its web site. After the leeches are removed, the wound can continue to bleed steadily for as many as 10 hours – ideal in the case of hematomas, where active drainage is needed.

Biopharm describes leeches as “perfectly designed” sucking machines. Leeches have three sets of jaws containing approximately 100 teeth each, and leave a bite mark that resembles the Mercedes-Benz emblem. Along with the natural anesthetic that helps dull the pain of their initial chomp, leeches release several compounds when feeding, including hirudin, an anti-coagulant that maintains blood flow during feeding; and calin, which inhibits clotting for a period afterward. Biopharm acknowledges that as with any treatment, there is a risk of allergic reaction or infection, but notes that it is rare.

In the United States, medicinally farmed leeches are considered a “medical device” by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA), and their use is regulated by federal law. “Vets have ordered from us,” a terse-sounding spokesperson from Leeches U.S.A. in Westbury, New York, told us; she did not know for what purpose the leeches had been ordered.

Leeches are used for only one treatment, and most meet their demise thereafter. In Dr. Epstein’s practice, they are “retired, and kept in a bowl to swim around.”

The Bottom Line

In the end, it can seem there are as many ways to treat hematomas as there are dogs who develop them. And, depending on whom you talk to, the end results can vary dramatically.

Even though surgery is said to be the best method to avoid scarring and malformation, “I’ve see the ones that have gone to surgery and half of those are as scarred down as those that haven’t,” Dr. Kaplan observes. “And I’ve seen ones where the owners did nothing and their ears look great.”

Still, there are a few constants when it comes to caring for a dog with a hematoma:

If you opt for veterinary intervention, seek it out sooner rather than later, before the hematoma hardens and becomes more difficult to treat.

After the insertion of a device or procedure to drain the hematoma, be meticulous about after care, following your vet’s instructions to keep the hematoma draining and stop fluid build-up.

Avoiding further concussion to the ear is vitally important if it is to stabilize and heal. As annoying or awkward as it is, be sure your dog wears some type of Elizabethan collar to deter scratching and minimize the effects of shaking.

Treat the underlying cause of the head-shaking that produced the hematoma. Otherwise, you are only addressing the symptom and not the cause.

If Blitz were around today, and I had another shot at treating his hematoma, I’d likely pursue some of the newer treatments outlined in this article. Heck, I might even give leeches a try. I’d like nothing better than to find an approach that actually works for this infuriating ear condition – and to keep that head “drapery” as handsome as ever.

Don’t Shake Your Head!

Though the cause of hematomas hasn’t been definitely identified, most veterinarians point to head shaking as the likely culprit. Vigorous or repeated head-shaking can cause a blood vessel in the ear flap to burst and cause acute swelling – but we’ve also seen dogs whose own ID tags have injured their ear flaps during head shaking, initiating the hematoma spiral. So, to keep hematomas from recurring – and to avert their formation in the first place – it’s important to get to the root cause of head shaking and resolve it.

Ear infections are a prime cause of head shaking, and can be persistent and difficult to treat. But once the infection has been brought under control, your work is not done: You need to find out of the source of the imbalance that produced the infection to begin with. Pay attention to whether there has been a change in the dog’s food, supplements, or probiotics; I noticed that even changing my dogs’ diet from raw to home-cooked resulted in an uptick in occasional ear infections.

Another, less obvious cause of head shaking – and the likely cause in Blitz’s case – is a lack of household humidity. Especially in wintertime, household air tends to dry out, and with it the dogs’ skin. An increase in dander makes them itchier, which in turn makes them shake more.

Running a humidifier, boiling a kettle of water, or simply leaving a bowl of the wet stuff out atop a radiator and regularly refilling it can restore much-needed moisture to the household – and stop Fido from flapping.

Denise Flaim of Revodana Ridgebacks in Long Island, New York, shares her home with three Ridgebacks, 10-year-old triplets, and a very patient husband. 

Ways to Combat Your Dog’s Indoor Urine-Marking

[Updated August 6, 2018]

I can still remember the day, more than a decade ago, when I first realized with horror that our Scottish Terrier, Dubhy (pronounced “Duffy”), was marking in the house. We were trying to sell our Tennessee home at the time, which made the indoor leg-lifting behavior doubly disturbing. Homes with urine stains and odors don’t show particularly well. Dubhy was young, just over a year old. I wrote off the amber-colored stains I found on the heater vent to not-quite-finished housetraining, redoubled my management efforts, and stepped up the “potty outside” routine. It didn’t help. I began to question my professional dog-trainer credentials. Personally faced with persistent indoor marking, one of the more frustrating challenges dog owners encounter, I was not succeeding at resolving it.

urine marking

Leg-lifting is a natural, normal behavior for dogs, especially (although not exclusively) for males. Of course, like lots of other natural, normal dog behaviors, it’s unacceptable to most owners. Fortunately, most male dogs learn pretty quickly that humans, for some unfathomable reason, don’t appreciate their efforts to tell the world that the house, and all items within in it, are the property of the dog and his family. “Keep your paws off!” he is saying to the world.

Indoor marking is also often a function of stress. Dogs who are anxious about their environment are more likely to mark indoors than those who are relaxed and calm. Stress-related marking is harder to modify than the simple “This is my stuff” leg-lifting. Dubhy was a calm, easygoing, laid-back dude. The idea of stress-induced marking didn’t even enter my mind.

Only after several years had passed did I realize that Dubhy’s indoor marking coincided precisely with the start of his dog-reactive behavior. The dog reactivity emerged as the result of a pair of roaming Labradors Retrievers (who lived a mile away) who repeatedly breached their underground shock fence, visited our yard, and fought through our fence with our indomitable Scottie. I eventually realized well after the fact that the two behaviors were connected. Duh. The stress of the two intruding Labradors set off Dubhy’s marking.

Neutering Usually Stops Urine Marking

In Dubhy’s case, my initial analysis of incomplete housetraining, although incorrect, was not entirely off base. Indoor marking often begins in adolescent males because it is a natural behavior. Those “easy” cases often respond well to standard housetraining protocols: increasing the dog’s management to reduce his opportunity to mark, taking him outdoors to potty far more frequently, reinforcing appropriate elimination outside, and interrupting any leg lifts you happen to see with a reminder: “Oops! Outside!”
Of course, housetraining and/or behavior-modification efforts need to be accompanied by a good clean-up program using an enzymatic cleaner, to eliminate any lingering odor of urine (which invites the dog to mark again). It’s also important to rule out or treat any urinary-tract infections as possible contributors to inappropriate elimination. And don’t forget neutering!

According to Dr. Nicholas Dodman, veterinary behaviorist at Cummings School of Veterinary Medicine at Tufts University, about 60 percent of intact male dogs will stop urine-marking within weeks or months if they are neutered. Other sources claim as high as a 90 percent success rate post-neutering.

Suffice it to say that neutering is a good first step if your dog reverts back to peeing in the house. This is at least in part because intact male dogs will mark everything in response to the scent of a female in season somewhere in the area, and in part because testosterone in general contributes to the motivation to make a “this is mine” statement. Marking by female dogs will also usually resolve with spaying. Of course, the older the dog and the longer your dog has been practicing the marking behavior, the less likely it is that sterilization alone will fix the problem.

Dubhy, however, was neutered some five months before he started marking. That clearly wasn’t the answer to our dilemma. Nor did our return to a basic housetraining protocol stop his behavior.

Stress Generally Causes Dogs to Mark the House

The 10 to 40 percent of dogs who don’t stop their marking after neutering and remedial housetraining efforts are probably, like Dubhy, marking because of stress. In some cases, identifying stressors and removing them can eliminate marking. There are a variety of different strategies for removing stressors. The more stress you can remove, the more likely it is the marking will cease. Other than his reactive aggression toward other dogs, however, Dubhy was a pretty laid-back, mellow guy. We had talked to the neighbors on several occasions about keeping their wandering Labrador Retrievers at home, but Dubhy really didn’t seem to have a whole lot of additional stress in his life.

Exercise is an excellent stress reducer that can help your indoor-marker feel less compelled to lift his leg in your living room. Vigorous off-leash aerobic outings can work wonders with a variety of behavioral issues, as can force-free training routines that require a dog to think, and that tire him mentally. Products such as Adaptil (plug-in pheromone diffuser) can also be effective in decreasing stress levels for some dogs, as can calming massage, aromatherapy, and musical products from Through a Dog’s Ear (see “5 Things to Do if Your Dog Needs Cage Rest,” (August 2014).

How to Manage Urine Marking Indoors

Dr. Dodman suggests that dogs who persistently mark indoors and don’t respond to neutering and housetraining protocols almost always need anti-anxiety medication to resolve the problem. Indeed, pharmaceutical intervention can be quite successful, especially when combined with an ongoing behavior modification program.
Many dog owners prefer to avoid medication if possible, and choose, instead, to use a belly band for their indoor male markers (diapers are necessary for females). This is a reasonable solution to a vexing problem, if the dog accepts the device easily. If the dog can routinely Houdini his way out of the band, or is clearly distressed by wearing it, then it’s not a viable option and medication is a better choice.

We opted for management with Dubhy. He happily accepted his belly band, lined with a sanitary pad, and stood quietly when I told him it was time to put his pants on. Delivering a treat after applying the belly band helped keep him happy about the procedure. He would still mark into the band, so I had to change it as needed to prevent urine burns on his sensitive, bare abdomen.

Our earlier housetraining effort had at least succeeded in convincing Dubhy not to mark in our presence, so he could go pants-free when the family relaxed together evenings in the living room, and for sleep-time overnight in our bedroom. We used baby gates and closed doors to keep him in view. It was only for his unsupervised house-time that the band was required. Sure, I occasionally grumbled internally about the inconvenience of replacing pads and laundering belly bands, and groused out loud when he occasionally managed to pee out from under the band and I had to do clean-up duty, but it allowed us to have a peaceful life with our boy who might otherwise have been the source of much angst over the years.

We lost our beloved Dubhy a few months ago to lymphoma – a nasty and aggressive cancer. We miss him a lot. I’d give anything to have the privilege of putting belly bands on him again.

Ways to Approach Your Dog’s Pee-Inducing Stressors

I utilize five strategies for dealing with stressors. When I’m working with a client whose dog has stress-related behavior issues such as marking, aggression, or generalized anxiety, we list as many stressors as we can think of, assign one or more strategies to each stressor, and agree on which ones we will actively work on. Removing stressors doesn’t necessarily make the unwanted behavior go away, but it does make your behavior-modification efforts much more likely to be successful.

Here are the strategies:

1. Get rid of it

Get rid of anything aversive that causes unnecessary pain or stress, including shock collars, choke chains, and prong collars, and penny cans or throw chains. Even head halters, considered by some trainers to be positive training tools, are aversive to many dogs.

2. Manage your dog’s exposure to the stressors

If your dog isn’t fond of small children and there are none in your life (and he doesn’t encounter them regularly in your neighborhood), you can manage him (as I did) the one time each year your sister comes to visit with your young niece and nephew, by keeping him in another part of the house when the kids are awake and about.

3. Change his association to the stressors

Convince him that something that stresses him is actually very wonderful by pairing it consistently with something else wonderful. If your dog is stressed by men with beards, you can convince him that men with beards always make chicken happen by having a bearded man appear, and feeding your dog bits of chicken, over and over and over again, until he wants furry-faced men to appear so he can have more chicken. The key to successful counter-conditioning, as this process is called, is to always keep the dog below threshold; you want him a little aware of and worried about the aversive stimulus, but not quaking in fear or barking and lunging. (See “Counter-Conditioning,” below.)

4. Teach him a new behavior around the stressors

Perhaps your dog becomes highly aroused by visitors coming to the door. He’s not fearful or aggressive, but the high arousal is a stressor. You can teach him that the doorbell is his cue to run and get in his crate, where he’ll receive a stuffed Kong or other doggie delectable (see “Unwanted Barking at the Front Door,” February 2010). Or you can teach him that visitors will toss toys for him to chase if he sits politely when the door opens.

5. Live with the stressors

You don’t have to actively do something about every stressor in your dog’s world; every dog can tolerate some level of stress and a few stressors. Just try to do something about the ones that are easy to manage or remove from his environment, and be conscious that when he’s being exposed to the ones that you can’t do much about (say, sounds of construction coming from the building project next door), he may be more likely to exhibit urine-marking or other stress-related behaviors at that time.

Counter-Conditioning Urine Marking

Counter-conditioning involves changing your dog’s association with a scary or arousing stimulus from negative to positive. The easiest way to give most dogs a positive association is with very high-value, really yummy treats. I like to use white meat from chicken – canned, baked, or boiled, since most dogs love chicken and it’s a low-fat food.

Here’s how the process works:

1. Determine the distance at which your dog can be in the presence of the stimulus and be alert or wary but not extremely fearful or aroused. This is called the threshold distance.

2. With you holding your dog on leash, have a helper present the stimulus at threshold distance X. The instant your dog sees the stimulus, start feeding him bits of chicken, non-stop.

3. After several seconds, have the helper remove the stimulus, and stop feeding chicken.

4. Keep repeating steps 1-3 until the presentation of the stimulus at that distance consistently causes your dog to look at you with a happy smile and a “Yay! Where’s my chicken?” expression. This is a conditioned emotional response (CER) – your dog’s association with the stimulus at threshold distance X is now positive instead of negative.

5. Now you need to increase the intensity of the stimulus. You can do that by decreasing distance to X minus Y; by increasing movement of the stimulus at distance X (a child walking, skipping, or swinging her arms); by increasing number of stimuli (two or three children, instead of one); increasing the visual “threat” (a tall man instead of a short one, or a man with a beard instead of a clean-shaven one); or by increasing volume (if it’s a stimulus that makes noise, such as a vacuum cleaner). I’d suggest decreasing distance first in small increments by moving the dog closer to the location where the stimulus will appear, achieving his new CER at each new distance, until he is happy to be very near to the non-moving stimulus, perhaps even sniffing or targeting to it.

6. Return to distance X and increase the intensity of your stimulus (move the vacuum a little; have two children instead of one; have the man put on a hat, or a backpack), gradually decreasing distance and attaining CERs along the way, until your dog is delighted to have the moderately intense stimulus in close proximity.

7. Now, back to distance X, increase intensity again, by having your helper turn the vacuum on briefly, feed treats the instant it’s on, then turn it off, and stop the treats. (Or turn up the volume, or add more children, etc.)

8. Repeat until you have the CER, then gradually increase the length of time you have your dog in the presence of the increased-intensity stimulus, until he’s happy (but not aroused) to have it present continuously.

9. Begin decreasing distance in small increments, moving the dog closer to the stimulus, obtaining his new CER consistently at each new distance.

10. When your dog is happy to have the higher-intensity stimulus close to him, you’re ready for the final phase. Return to distance X and obtain his new CER there, with a full-intensity stimulus – a running, moving vacuum; multiple children laughing and playing; a tall man with a beard wearing a hat, sunglasses, and a backpack. Then gradually decrease distance until your dog is happy to be in the presence of your full-intensity stimulus. He now thinks the stimulus is a very good thing, as a reliable predictor of very yummy treats. In the case of a human stimulus, you can gradually work up to actual interaction with the human(s) at this stage, by having the person(s) drop treats as they walk by, then letting him take treats from their fingers – without direct eye contact, and eventually working up to normal interaction.

Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA, is WDJ’s Training Editor. She lives in Fairplay, Maryland, site of her Peaceable Paws training center, where she offers dog-training classes and courses for trainers.

Consider Dehydrated Dog Foods for Your Dog!

Occasionally we are asked to rate the various options that owners have for feeding their dogs, based on the relative “healthiness” of each major type of food: home-prepared (raw or cooked); commercial raw, frozen diets and freeze-dried or dehydrated raw diets; canned food, and kibble. Actually, in our opinion, that list of food types is ranked accurately right there, from best to worst, in terms of their potential for improving or supporting a dog’s peak health.

honest kitchen dehydrated dog food

On what do we base that ranking? While it’s difficult to get nutritionists to agree on just about anything, it’s likely that most would agree on the following general idea: that a diet that was formulated to be “complete and balanced” and comprised of fresh, lightly processed or unprocessed species-appropriate ingredients is healthier than a “complete and balanced” diet containing highly processed ingredients that are uncommonly consumed by a given species in nature. That general theory explains our high esteem for the dehydrated and freeze-dried diets that we’ve listed and described in our WDJ 2014 Dehydrated Dog Food Review 

We’ve lumped a lot of disparate diets into this category. Even though they vary widely in terms of ingredients, “rawness,” manufacturing process, finished form, and protein and fat levels, what all of these diets share is their high inclusion of high-quality animal protein and fats, and a method of preservation that only lightly alters or damages the nutrients in the food: drying. The idea is to remove moisture from the food; the less moisture that is contained in a food, the longer its nutrients will remain unspoiled and available to the consumer (your dog).

Drying can be accomplished at low temperatures, but it takes longer and leaves meats and fats vulnerable to oxidation (spoilage); most dried foods are prepared with temperatures of 140ºF to 180ºF. (Food can rot when kept in temperatures between 140ºF to 32ºF; If it’s held in temperatures colder than 30ºF, it freezes; if it’s exposed to temperatures higher than 180ºF, it will start to cook.) Dehydrators actually lightly cook the food as it dries, altering the cellular structure of meats, fruits, and vegetables. In contrast, proper freeze-drying doesn’t affect the appearance or taste of foods as much.

Freeze-dryers expose foods to low temperatures, freezing them relatively quickly, and then to high air pressure (freeze-drying machines resemble large pressurized gas tanks). When the pressure inside the chamber is high enough, small heating units are turned on, heating the trays that the food sits on, and causing the frozen water (a solid at that point) in the foods to transform into a gas (water vapor). Pumps pull the vapor out of the chamber while keeping the internal air pressure high. The term for freeze-drying is sublimation: the act of a solid shifting directly into a gas.

It sounds radical, but the process actually leaves most foods less damaged than dehydration. Freeze-drying doesn’t shrink or toughen most food ingredients, and it leaves most aromas and flavors in the food intact. There are some food compounds that don’t freeze-dry well; those that contain vinegar or alcohol don’t sublimate nicely, but these are not common ingredients in canine diets!

Some owners seek out these diets specifically for their rawness; they believe feeding raw meat is natural and beneficial to their dogs. If a raw diet is your chief motivation for considering these diets, avoid the products that contain dehydrated ingredients in favor of the ones that contain freeze-dried ingredients.

Check out our complete review of the top Dehydrated & Freezer-Dried Dog Foods by clicking here or following the link at the top of the page.

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What Your Dog Remembers

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It never fails to surprise and amaze me: we were hiking recently along on a trail where we haven’t been for months and months and Otto stopped suddenly and started scanning a certain tree. The other dogs paused for a second, too, taking their cues from Otto, as if to say, “What’s up, guy?” And then, just as quickly, they moved on, even as Otto stood transfixed, sniffing the air and scrutinizing that tree – the one where he came closer than he did before or has since to catching a squirrel. Obviously, that close call with the squirrel was not as significant for me as it was for Otto, but when he stops and clearly remembers that place and looks for signs of other potentially catchable squirrels, of course, then I remember, too.

And it’s obvious to me that he does remember that moment, because clearly he’s seensquirrels in countless places, and chased them in dozens of places. But only in that one place did he catch a squirrel so unaware, running up so swiftly behind it, that it caught a glimpse of Otto and sprang for the tree with only inches to spare. Otto could practically feel the squirrel’s tail hair on his nose. And then, of course, it clung to the tree above him, chattering and chirping with alarm and, perhaps, squirrel verbal abuse, and knocking bits of bark down around him. A dog remembers that sort of stuff; I don’t, until Otto stops and stares at the tree where it all happened one day, at least three years ago.

There is one other place that Otto always remembers, where we once startled a veritable herd of deer, at least 20 of them, early one morning. The herd took off bouncing and leaping through the brush and across a ravine; we were on one side of it, and they crossed the creek and bounded up the other side. He had started to chase them and I called him back; then, when they were all out of sight, I let him run down into the ravine and fill his nose with their scent. It must have been very powerful – perhaps the whole herd had been sleeping there – and he spent a long time running back and forth in the ravine, sniffing. Every time we walk down the dirt road that leads to that ravine, he will at some point stop trotting and slow to a walk, and the closer we get to the spot where we saw all the deer, the slower he will walk until he is stalking, one paw at a time, while scanning the ravine and lifting his nose for any deer scent.

Of course, our dogs remember our friends’ and relatives’ houses, and going to the vet, groomer, boarding kennel, daycare, or dog park. In some of these places, they exhibit behavior that looks fearful or apprehension, and in some of these places they exhibit what looks like joyful anticipation. I suppose that behavior experts would say that it’s simply that they have formed positive or negative associations with things that happened to them, and have expectations that the similar positive or negative things might happen to them again in those places. I think those things are true – but I’m also certain that Otto remembers that squirrel, and the sensation of its tail hair on his nose, and the way it rained down tree bark and abuse on him.

Do your dogs remember certain places or events? 

Do Dogs Dream?

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My old Border Collie Rupert used to herd in his sleep. Which was funny, because he was a failed sheepdog who never showed a sign of wanting to herd any animal when he was awake. But when he dreamed, his ankles flexed in a galloping rhythm and his lips curled and his eyes rolled around as he herded sheep. I’m sure of it.

Do dogs dream? And if so, do they dream about what it looks like they dream about? I am not aware if there has ever been a brain-wave researcher with enough time and funding on his hands as to try to determine if dogs really do dream, but I hope so. And why do all dogs seem to have different dreaming recurrent themes, much as we do?

Rupe always seemed to be dreaming about running and dodging about. Otto has much more stressful guarding/fighting dreams. He growls and woofs and makes very fearsome snarling faces, and sometimes, immediately after a bout of sleep-growling, he’ll whimper and yelp as if hurt or scared, and wake up with a start. He will then immediately look somewhat embarrassed. It’s exactly that, “Oh man, did I just have the scariest dream!” look.

Do Dogs Have Nightmares?

But this is the cutest thing, and why I was finally inspired to write this blog: Cole, my son’s almost one-year-old coonhound-mix puppy, wags his tail in his sleep. And he had a big, long, thumpy coonhound tail, which is what has alerted me to this phenomenon. At least five times in the past couple of weeks as I’ve been dog-sitting my son’s dog, I’ve been working at my computer when I heard a loud “Thump thump thump thump” behind me, and when I turned to see what was making the noise, there is Cole, sound asleep, with his tail wagging up a storm. His eyes are twitching in REM sleep, and he has twitchy muscles elsewhere, but mostly, that tail is going. I have tried and cannot ever seem to get the video camera on my phone going in time to capture this – my chair squeaks as I turn to reach for it or something, and he wakes up – so you are going to have to trust me when I say it’s about the cutest thing ever. He’s a sweet, sweet, easygoing guy, very mellow and fun-loving, and it totally fits that if he’s having dreams, he’s wagging his tail in them. I just wish I could capture it on video.

Do your dogs dream, do you think? Do they seem to have recurring dreams?

Perfect Playmates

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Is there anything as good as the perfect playmate for your young, playful dog? One who is about the same size and weight and has the same style of play as your dog?

I’m dog-sitting my son’s dog, Cole, for three whole weeks while he travels out of the country for his sport. Cole is a coonhound/Lab-mix, just about at the one-year mark – grown-up enough to not offend my now-seven-year-old Otto with his very presence on the planet, but young enough to still crave daily sessions of play. In preparation for his stay, I bought extra Tricky Treat balls (by Omega Paw, love these) for him to bat around, as well as extra raw bones. Plus I’ve been taking all the dogs (my big mixed-breed dog Otto, Chihuahua-mix Tito, and Cole) out for off-leash runs and swimming sessions in the river – anything to try to tire him out and keep him well-behaved and out of trouble (that is, out of the chicken pen, out of my raised beds in the garden, out of the neighbors’ hearing range, etc.).

But absolutely nothing trumps the entertainment value of playing with another young dog – and Cole hit the jackpot today. My husband and I rent rooms in the house where I have my office (two blocks away from our home) to students who attend a local trade school. There is a new term every four months, and today some new students arrived. One young man was accompanied by his older brother, who had attended the same school a few years ago and who brought his 11-month-old female Boxer along for the car ride. I asked whether the dog could play with Cole, and the Boxer’s owner said that would be great – and for the next two hours, the young dogs played, and played, and played.

Both young dogs enjoyed racing around the backyard, chasing each other up and down the stairs to the back porch, and wrestling on the porch sofa with toys. They grabbed each other’s legs, chewed each other’s necks, and threw themselves on top of and underneath each other in total joy, and with total comfort with each other. Neither dog was overwhelming to the other one, neither one was afraid of the other; it was as if they were raised together since they were puppies. It was a warm day, and their tongues were soon dragging, so I took the opportunity to hose off the dusty porch, and both dogs enjoyed running through the spray, which helped keep them cooler. It was a beautiful thing to see. And more beautiful yet: since they left, Cole has been sound asleep for about four hours. I’m not sure he’s going to move until tomorrow. If only that dog lived close by!

Adoption Counseling

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In early June I wrote a blog post about helping a friend find an appropriate dog for his family, which includes a two-year-old girl. He hadn’t owned a dog for many years, and had lots of questions before and after taking custody of a prospect I found for him in my local shelter. In the blog post, I marveled at the number of things we discussed over a few-week period regarding the dog’s behavior, training, health, and diet. I offer all of my friends and relatives free “tech support” for any dog they adopt through my local shelter, both to help them select the best candidate for their home, family, and circumstances, and to make sure that they all get off on the right foot together.

If only my local shelter, and ALL shelters, had funding to support an adoption counselor who could provide this service to all of their adopters. There are an unbelievable number of things that can go wrong, or cause an adopter to have reservations about their new dog, that can quickly doom the dog’s placement.

For example, the dog I placed with my friend and his family: It didn’t work out, but not for lack of trying. The family really liked the dog, but over time, it became evident that the dog was not comfortable with the child. Because I strongly feel that dogs who live with kids ought to be especially forgiving of human behavior and sincerely like kids, I had spent a few weeks with the dog before placing her in my friend’s home. I observed that the dog was uncomfortable with small kids at first ­ she would actually emit small growls when they first approached her, though her body language stayed loose. I also saw that within a day or two, she grew quite comfortable with both of the kids I introduced her to, my four-year-old niece and my two-year-old grandson. I made sure both kids fed her (or tossed to her) lots of treats, threw a ball for her, kicked a soccer ball with her, and rubbed her tummy (her favorite thing), and as a result, within a few hours, with careful management of both kids and dog, she quickly began greeting both children with eager tail-wagging. She also would grab a toy and attempt to initiate games of fetch with them. So I thought she might do the same with my friend’s daughter.

My friend and his wife really tried to make the placement work, but it was not to be. They experienced some housetraining issues, which I suspected had to do with the dog’s mild separation anxiety. We talked through solutions (baby gates to keep the dog from having access to carpeted areas, supervised pottying rather than putting the dog outside unaccompanied) and got a handle on that. We discussed how one might keep a couch-loving dog off the couch, and whether the household changes they would need to put in place (more gates and closed doors) were worth it to them. But the biggest bugaboo was the fact that the dog and the child did not mesh well. After a two-week trial, though my friend had reportedly carried out all the things I had recommended to improve the dog’s comfort with his daughter, the dog was still frequently greeting his daughter with growls, and had, on several occasions, added an air-snap when the two-year-old approached the dog too exuberantly. I recommended we pull the plug on that placement, for everyone’s safety. I brought the dog back to my home; I’ll keep my eyes peeled for another dog for them – one with no reservations about kids whatsoever.

If my friends hadn’t had a resource to consult, and they had selected the dog right out of a shelter, the dog may have been returned on the first day, after her first potty-in-the-house offense. Or surely, after the second or third day, when they reported that she barked a lot when they left her outside the house alone. They needed some advice for solutions to get through these crises – advice that few shelters can offer. It would have been a real shame for them to give up on a dog over issues that are easy to solve (with the right advice).

It also would have been a real shame if they hadn’t given up the dog over the potentially far more serious problem: her discomfort with the child in the house. They really liked the dog – so much so that they might have hesitated longer to return her, had I not insisted that a two-week trial was more than enough to determine that she was, in fact, getting less tolerant of their daughter, not more comfortable. If this had been a typical shelter adoption, they may have weathered the initial problems they experienced with the dog on their own – only to fall victim to a worse situation.

After near-daily reports from my friend that the dog was still growling at the child, despite their efforts to manage the dog/kid interactions and use counter-conditioning and desensitization, I felt certain that this particular dog/kid situation was untenable – at least without major commitment to scrupulous management and extensive coaching (preferably in-home, private training with a good trainer). In the space of those two weeks, the dog’s growling had not vanished or diminished; she had actually increased the “volume” of her message of discomfort to include air-snaps. The next step was likely to be a bite as the dog tried to get more space between herself and the child.

I shudder to think about how many dogs go home and are put in situations like this where they just can’t win, and when they make an inevitable mistake, are returned to a shelter and forced to pay for it with their lives (because many shelters will consider a dog who bit someone in one home to be too much of a risk to place in any other home). I was proud of my friend for making the difficult decision to return the dog to me, before anything happened that couldn’t be taken back.

I’m now in the process of counseling another friend through early days with the same dog. This friend is single and childless, and loves all the dog’s stock-dog quirks and playfulness. However, my friend works longs night shifts, which pose a challenge for this dog’s separation anxiety. We’ve had to employ melatonin, food-stuffed Kongs and raw bones, a tall baby gate, an extra comfy dog bed, and even an overnight visit with one of my dogs (Tito), to convince the dog that sleeping in the house all night without humans isn’t a sign that her world is crumbling or that she may have been abandoned. Once again, without some guidance, my friend probably would have given up on this dog in the first few days – only this time, it seems like the counseling and advice might result in long-lasting solutions and a solid, happy adoption.

Goodness knows, I’m not perfect. I may have made a mistake in the dog’s initial placement, and a professional trainer would probably have given both of my friends better advice about handling this nice little dog (no dog is perfect, either). But what do most people do when they adopt a dog and then find themselves struggling with behavior or health problems they’ve never before experienced with a dog? In an ideal world, they would have a trainer and a veterinarian all lined up and available to help them, but I’m not sure a single person I have ever known has put these precautions into place ahead of time. And adoption counselors? I’ve heard of them at large shelters in good-sized cities, but my local (small, underfunded, rural) shelter doesn’t have any money to spare for someone of that job description – even though I think they’d have far better adoption rates if they did. A well-trained behavior counselor might even be able to help address the problems that people have with dogs who were not adopted at the shelter — to reduce the owner-surrender rates, too.

Does your local shelter have a behavior and/or adoption counselor? Tell us how they do it.

(The Complete Healthy Dog Handbook Tip #1) Speed Eaters Anonymous

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“I feed my two dogs together, and the smaller one seems to gobble her food without chewing it and then throws it back up a few minutes later. Why does she do this?”

She may be worried that if she doesn’t wolf down her food, your other dog will get some of it. This is rational fear, but her coping strategy isn’t ideal. How about feeding your dogs in separate rooms so the little one feels less pressured by the presence of the bigger dog? If she still eats so fast that she vomits even when she eats in private, then spread out her food over a large surface (such as a cookie sheet) or in several small bowls in different parts of the room so she can’t hoover up her entire meal in one breath. And if you now feed your dogs only once a day, divide the food into two or three smaller meals per day instead. Knowing that her next meal is just around the corner may help your gobbler to relax and enjoy her food less anxiously.

If these measures don’t work and the vomiting continues, make an appointment with your vet to check into the possibility that she’s regurgitation rather than vomiting.

For answers to all your canine health questions – big and small – buy The Complete Healthy Dog Handbook by Betsy Brevitz, D.V.M from The Whole Dog Journal.

Fact V. Opinion

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You may not be aware that WDJ is more than just a printed publication: it’s also available to subscribers in a digital form. (To read it online, subscribers simply register for access. Then they can read current issues before they are available in print, and follow links given in articles to back issues and articles.) The WDJ website also contains a blog, where I (and sometimes, guest bloggers) post more personal stories and topics for discussion. It’s a place where we can discuss more intimate, emotional, moral, spiritual, and even judgemental ideas and opinions relating to our relationships with dogs.

whole dog journal editor nancy kerns

Please don’t confuse my editorials on this page, or the blog posts on the WDJ site, with fact-based “articles” in the magazine. Our foremost mission with WDJ is to provide paid subscribers with solid, well-researched information that they can put into immediate practice to improve their dog’s health and training. The subscription price you pay gives us the ability to deliver this information independently, without having to consider the feelings or bottom line of advertisers (who support most mainstream publications). We don’t want to waste the limited amount of space we have in the print edition on personal stuff that may have no relevance for you. With the exception of this small space on this one page, the magazine is about fact-based service to you, our subscribers. (And sometimes, I offer facts here, too.)

On the other hand, lots of you enjoy reading, thinking, and talking about life with dogs. Some of you want to share personal stories, whether they are negative – like recitations of frustrating encounters with loose dogs, irresponsible owners, bad veterinarians, or incompetent trainers – or heart-warming and positive – like people who do an amazing job at rescue, vets who save the lives of difficult-to-diagnose dogs, and trainers who rehabilitate formerly frightened, unhappy dogs into well-adjusted members of the family. The place for these things is our blog, as well as the WDJ Facebook page.
The Facebook page begs for an additional explanation. We frequently run links to past articles on the WDJ Facebook page (facebook.com/wholedogjournal), so that people who don’t currently subscribe (or have never heard of WDJ) can see what sort of unique and valuable, independent information we deliver monthly to our readers.

We also frequently post links on the Facebook page to those personal blog posts, as well as articles or videos produced by other people that we admire. Neither should be confused with our own fact-checked, expert-written articles in the magazine.
Am I wasting too much space on this? I just wanted to let you know that if you don’t like or don’t want to be exposed to my opinions or stories, or stories and opinions from other thoughtful dog owners, skip this page and skip the blog; our mission of delivering solid, fact-based training and health-building advice will always appear in the rest of the magazine.

5 Things To Do If Your Dog Needs Cage Rest

Few things are worse than hearing the vet say those dreaded words: “Cage Rest.” Most often the consequence of an injury or major surgery, it means your dog must be kept under tight restrictions – in a crate, out to relieve herself on leash only, and then back in her crate. Running, jumping, and playing are strictly prohibited; even excessive walking is frowned upon. To make matters worse, this period of restricted activity is sometimes prescribed for as long as four to six weeks. Most of our dogs barely get enough exercise as it is . . . How do you keep a young, active dog under wraps for a whole month or more? Boredom is your biggest enemy. Here are some suggestions to help you through the dark days:

1. Give Your Dog Mental Exercise

What a fantastic opportunity to do a whole ton of training! When our young Corgi, Lucy, was laid up for six months (yes, you read that right), we had plenty of time to practice non-active behaviors such as Stay, Nose Touch, Paw Touch, Relax, Find It (low-activity version), Hold It, Rest Your Head, Polite Leash Walking, and many more.

You can also keep your dog’s body and brain well exercised with some of the more sedentary puzzle toys for dogs. Challenging mental exercises can be as tiring as physical exertion! Shaping  and imitation training  can be particularly good for that brain-drain effect. Careful behavior choices for these options (small, precise behaviors rather than big, active ones) can keep you and your dog playing by the restricted activity rules.

This is also an ideal time to work on the Karen Overall Protocol for Relaxation with your dog. This protocol is laid out as a 15-day program (although you can take longer if you wish or need to), with your dog learning to calmly sit or lie down in one place for increasing periods of time while you do other things.

2. Cuddle Up with Your Dog

Put on your favorite soothing CD, turn the lights down low, and snuggle up with your shut-in. You might also light an aromatherapy lavender candle or employ a diffuser with a calming aromatherapy lavender essential oil. (It’s important to use only therapeutic-quality essential-oil products. To identify them, see “Aromatherapy for Dogs,” and “Therapeutic Essential Oils for Your Dog.”) Your dog will likely appreciate the one-on-one time with you – unless she finds snuggling aversive, in which case, skip this step.

3. Massage Your Dog

Even if your dog’s not a fan of cuddling, she can benefit from some skilled calming massage or TTouch. Get yourself a good book on canine massage, or round up some T-Touch resources, put on your calming music CD, light the lavender candle, and start massaging. Remember that calming massage should be comprised of slow, steady pressure, not fast rubbing and patting. Any talking should also be a low, calm voice, not the high-pitched tones we use to increase canine enthusiasm in training routines.

4. Provide Toys and Bones

Stock up on Kong toys, other similar sturdy stuffables, and raw meaty bones, so you can keep your dog happily engaged when you cannot personally attend to her. Chewing is a great stress-reliever, and can help take some of the angst out of her confinement.

5. Supply Your Dog with Environmental Aids

In addition to the “Through a Dog’s Ear” music, consider using Adaptil spray, which is said to mimic the calming pheromones a mother dog emits when she is nursing her puppies. Nutraceuticals such as Anxitane and Zylkene may also have a calming effect. Calming herbs for dogs such as chamomile can be useful. Commercial herbal calming products include Composure, PetCalm, Quiet Moments, and Dr. Harvey’s Relax. Your vet may also prescribe a short course of sedatives to get your dog through the first couple of weeks, when strict cage rest is likely the most crucial.

Making use of all five of the above suggestions, we survived six months of Lucy on restricted activity with only one bout of OCD tail-chasing. In fact, her healing exceeded the orthopedic veterinarian’s expectations and we were able to cancel her planned second surgery. Here’s wishing you the same success if you and your dog find yourselves in a “cage rest” scenario.

Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT-KA, is WDJ’s Training Editor. Pat is also the author of many books on positive training.

Neutering Dogs Without a Scalpel

Sounds odd to say, but I’m accustomed to standing over a fully anesthetized dog holding his testicles in one hand. Until recently, if I did, in fact, have his testicles in one hand, I’d usually have a scalpel in the other, preparing to neuter him. But on a day not long ago, I found myself armed with only a needle and syringe in my other hand, preparing to neuter a dog who was merely sedated.

zeuterin dog sterilization

We’d all love to see a procedure that can easily and permanently sterilize a male dog without side effects or complications. Historically, surgery has been the most commonly used option in the U.S. Contained in the syringe I held was an exciting new product, Zeuterin, which permanently sterilizes male dogs (between the ages of three and 10 months) without surgery. Will “zeutering” prove to be a better option? I was attending a training session to learn more.

Zeuterin is comprised of zinc gluconate and arginine, and is injected with a needle into the center of each of a young dog’s testicles. The compound diffuses in all directions in the testes, causing permanent and irreversible fibrosis in the testicle, rendering the dog incapable of producing any new sperm. Once the sperm currently in the testicles have been cleared (over the course of several weeks), the dog is sterile.

The needle used for the procedure is a very small one, and the procedure is remarkably painless. The dog does not have to be anesthetized. In theory, a calm dog being “zeutered” by an experienced veterinarian could even receive the injection without sedation. In practice, though, sedation is a very good idea: if the dog moves during the procedure there could be side effects, and dogs who have been subjected to the treatment should receive a small “Z” tattoo on the groin area to identify them as zeutered – and tattoos definitely require sedation.

After the injection, the dog’s testicles may briefly swell. Usually, they then atrophy, so that eventually they will be smaller that before, or sometimes, not even easily visible.
For dogs whose testicles do remain visible, though, there can be some confusion about whether they’re intact or not. This is the point of the “Z” tattoo, of course – and the company that manufactures the compound also sells “I’m Zeutered!” T-shirts for owners who want to prevent glares from the canine-testicle-averse passers-by at the dog park.

“Zeuter” vs. Neuter

The zeutering procedure has some obvious benefits. General anesthesia always carries a small risk, so avoiding it is unquestionably a good thing. And if you can avoid removing a dog’s organs, why wouldn’t you?

But, as with every medical procedure, there can be side effects to Zeuterin. Some dogs can be in pain afterward, for several days up to a week, and some dogs may vomit.
Occasionally, if the compound isn’t injected just so – if some of it erroneously comes into contact with the scrotal skin (rather than being injected properly into the center of the testes), the skin of the testicles can become irritated and ulcerate. In bad cases, a dog may have to go under the knife after all, to have his entire scrotum removed in a more invasive procedure than a simple castration would have been.

Of course, surgery poses the risk of complications as well, such as infections of the surgical site, or swelling of the empty scrotum with fluid (known as a seroma).
There is another significant difference between surgical neutering and zeutering, though, and it has to do with testosterone. The procedure you choose for your next male puppy may well be determined by how you feel about that hormone!

dog park humping

The Pros and Cons of Testosterone in Dogs

One of the most interesting things about this product is that it reduces testosterone levels in dogs who have had the procedure by only about 50 percent. Traditional surgical castration reduces the dog’s testosterone level to almost zero. Is this a good thing or a bad thing?

Testosterone is associated with some really obnoxious canine behaviors: mounting, marking, roaming, and some types of aggression. Veterinarians have traditionally recommended castration for dogs whose owners who want to reduce these behaviors.
The jury is still out on whether a 50 percent testosterone reduction will reduce those behaviors as well as castration does – but then, the jury still hasn’t ruled on how effective surgical castration (and its attendant near-total testosterone reduction) is for helping to eliminate the “problem” behaviors in male dogs, either. That said, if you’re thinking about sterilizing an animal specifically because of problem behaviors, I’d take the safest route and go with 100 percent testosterone reduction (surgery).

Be aware that there is a growing number of veterinarians and dog owners who believe that the health benefits of testosterone outweigh its potential for negative effects on the dog’s behavior. It’s a hot debate; some studies have found a correlation between neutering and the development later in life of certain kinds of cancer (specifically osteosarcoma, hemangiosarcoma, and prostate cancer), as well as an increased risk of tearing the cranial cruciate ligament (CCL). Note that while a CCL tear is not life-threatening, it is certainly expensive to fix.

On the other hand, neutering has also been correlated with a longer life, despite the risk of cancer, and a reduced chance of death by infection.

Warning: the studies regarding the pros and cons of neutering are very difficult to interpret! And many of the effects that are seen may be the result of different levels of healthcare provided by different owners. As just one example, it’s possible that dogs who are not neutered are just as likely to develop cancer, but less likely to be diagnosed with cancer. This could happen if owners who can’t afford to neuter their dogs are also unable to afford veterinary care as their dogs age.

There may be other reasons that neutering correlates with an increased risk of cancer and CCL tears; and, of course, improved management and access to veterinary care is almost certainly why neutering correlates with longer life expectancies. (By the way, I’m not implying that responsible breeders fail to provide their dogs with good veterinary care, only that responsible breeders are a minority among those who don’t neuter their dogs.) Testosterone is a powerful hormone; it’s possible that a lifetime of exposure to it has beneficial and detrimental effects on dogs. Amazingly, we still don’t know enough about it. And because zeutering is so new, we know even less about its long-term health effects than we do about surgical neutering.

Choosing For Your Dog

So in the end, should you neuter your dog, zeuter him, or leave him intact and manage him carefully? There are a lot of factors to consider, and the right decision will vary from situation to situation.

If behavioral changes are your biggest concern, your best bet is always to choose an animal who is well suited to your lifestyle and to invest time into a good training program. However, neutering may help, as may zeutering.

More and more owners say that the health benefits offered by testosterone are their priority, and so they are leaving their male dogs intact. They should be aware that the intended benefits remain the topic of much discussion and study and few conclusions.
If your veterinarian offers zeutering, ask about her experience with the product and the procedure; personally, I would have a dog zeutered only by someone who is familiar with the procedure. When the product has been on the market for a decade or two, experience will tell us a lot – and who knows, there may be other options by then.

The History of Zeuterin

The drug now called Zeuterin(TM) was briefly on the market a decade ago. Then called Neutersol, the drug was sold to veterinarians with little training or support. Many dogs suffered adverse reactions (such as inflamed testicles, which then required a far more invasive surgery than a conventional castration). The resulting poor reputation of the drug led to the 2005 death of the company then making and marketing the product, about two years after the product’s introduction.

Ark Sciences, of Irvington, New York, was founded in 2007 by Joe Tosini, an original investor in Neutersol. Tosini believes strongly in the product’s promise, but says that it was rolled out incorrectly. Under Tosini, Ark Sciences bought the rights to Neutersol, and built a team of advisors to help him resubmit the product for FDA approval (which it achieved in August 2012) and to relaunch the product with a vastly improved strategy. Ark Sciences requires veterinarians who want to provide zeutering services to their clients to complete a five-hour course – encompassing a two-hour online course, and three hours of hands-on training (which includes injecting the drug into several dogs).

Ark Sciences has also limited its recommendations for the procedure to dogs between three and 10 months of age who have two fully descended testicles in the scrotum, healthy scrotal skin, and no testicular abnormalities, such as pre-existing fibrosis, tumors, or transmissible venereal tumors (TVT).

According to the company’s online FAQs: “While adverse reactions requiring medical treatment occurred in only 1.1% of the dogs, there were minor reactions observed in 6.3% of dogs during the FDA study. Local reactions included testicular swelling (normal reaction to the injection), pain (dogs may resist sitting or may sit with both hind legs open), biting and licking at the scrotum, swelling of the prepuce and irritation, dermatitis, ulceration, infection, dryness or bruising of the scrotum. Systemic reactions included an increase in the white blood cell count, vomiting, anorexia (loss of appetite), lethargy (tiredness or abnormal attitude), and diarrhea.

“Most reactions were seen within the first seven days after the injection. Over 93% of dogs did not show any signs of post procedure pain. When pain was detected, it was most commonly seen in the first two days. No pain management medications were used in the study. Vomiting was most commonly seen on the day of the injection (within one minute and four hours after the injection). It is recommended to withhold food for 12 hours prior to injection to help prevent vomiting, which occurred in 4% of dogs. Your dog’s testicles may remain slightly enlarged but non-painful for a few months after the injection. Proper injection technique and owner observation post-injection is critical to avoid any potential undesirable side effects.”

Other Nonsurgical Contraception Innovations for Dogs

Zeuterin is a major new product, but there are other products under development that may eventually offer additional options for non-surgical contraception. The two main approaches are chemical contraception, such as Zeuterin or hormonal birth control, and immunocontraception, which actually uses the body’s own immune system against part of the reproductive system.

For example, GonaCon is a vaccine that teaches the immune system to target GnRH, the “master hormone” of reproduction. This product has been tested in cats and deer, and usually lasts for several years. Unfortunately, early versions had unacceptable side effects in dogs. It doesn’t provide 100 percent reliable contraception, so while it’s useful for feral animals, it’s not yet ready for use in companion animals.

Another immunocontraceptive that has been used with some success in wild horses is a vaccine for females that works against the zona pellucida, the coating around the egg. This vaccine has been tested in cats with poor results. It hasn’t yet been used in dogs.

Some types of hormonal birth control, such as deslorelin, can be implanted into male or female dogs to provide long term but reversible contraception. Like GonaCon, deslorelin targets GnRH, at the top of the reproductive system. This product is marketed for ferrets and horses, and is not commonly used in dogs. Additionally, as with any hormonal birth control, it can have side effects.

Because surgical spays and neuters are so well accepted in the U.S., there is not a lot of pressure to find alternatives in dogs. Most research is targeted at populations that cannot easily be reached with surgery, such as feral cats and horses, and wild deer. There is some interest in finding non-surgical solutions for feral dogs in other countries, but very little funding for such research.

For more information, keep an eye on the Alliance for Contraception in Dogs & Cats. This non-profit organization helpfully provides detailed analyses of various products that are available and will keep you up to date about any news in this very interesting and underserved field.

Jessica Hekman, DVM, MS completed her shelter medicine internship at the University of Florida’s Maddie’s Shelter Medicine Program in 2013. She is now studying the genetics of dog behavior in Illinois, where she lives with her husband and three dogs. You can learn more about Dr. Hekman at her blog, dogzombie.blogspot.com, a blog about dog brains and behavior (and sometimes shelter medicine), or follow her on Twitter @dogzombieblog.

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