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Give Your Dog a Smooth Recovery

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Dogs are lousy patients. It’s as simple as that. True, they don’t constantly call for a glass of water or a plump of their pillow, but that’s precisely the problem: Often unable to communicate distress, and possessing a stoicism that masks their true level of discomfort, dogs can mislead their owners into thinking that all’s well after a surgical procedure, when in fact it’s anything but.

Dogs are such over-compensators, in fact, that they often will display Olympic aspirations, trying to chase squirrels, barrel through doors, and leap out of cars without so much as a care that they’ve just had a complex orthopedic procedure with more stitches than Betsy Ross’s flag.

It’s up to you, then, to be the spoilsport, and to keep your dog calm, quiet, and otherwise compliant during the recovery period, which can last weeks and even months, depending on the procedure.

With all that in mind, here are some tips for managing your dog’s post-surgery recovery—along with warnings about what to look for when things just aren’t going right.

dog after surgery

Before You Leave the Vet Post-Surgery

Of course you will be eager to take your dog home, especially if his hospitalization was longer than a day or two. But make sure you understand every post-surgical care instruction given to you by the veterinarian or her staff before you head home. Take a good look at the surgical incision if it’s uncovered, so you know what it looks like before you are left alone with it (so to speak). Get clear on how long any dressings, pain patches, or bandages are supposed to be left in place.

Importantly, look carefully at the medicines that are being sent home with you—actually read the labels and open the bottles or tubes or boxes, so you are certain you understand exactly how much of which medication he is supposed to receive, how many times a day, and exactly how you are supposed to administer each one. If a medicine is given in a form you’ve never had to administer to your dog before (ear drops, eye ointments, pills, oral liquids), ask if someone could show you how to give your dog the first dose. Make sure you know whether the medication is supposed to be kept refrigerated or not.

Finally, it’s time to leave—but don’t head out to the car and just open the door and allow your dog to leap in like always! Anticipate the possibility that he will be so eager to leave the clinic and return to his familiar places that he may forget he’s wearing a cone, cast, brace, or bandages. Keep your leash taut and block his usual access to the car so that you (and perhaps a clinic staff member or family member, if he’s a big dog) can lift him gently into the car. If he’s too big to maneuver, use a ramp to help him climb slowly into the car, and be sure to have someone on each side of the ramp to steady him.

Ideally, someone could ride in the car with your dog in the back seat, or he could be safely crated in an especially well-padded crate for the slow, careful drive home.

Again, when he gets home, he may get very excited and eager to leap out of the car and back into his old life. Anticipate his enthusiasm and control his movements carefully.

The Post-Canine Surgery Overview

A dog views life pretty much at knee level. (Or, in some cases, ankle level.) Such a ground-hugging perspective leaves him that much more likely to get dirty. “Think about if you had knee surgery, and then you laid down on the ground and dragged that incision around,” says Dr. Tomas Infernuso of Veterinary Traveling Surgical Services in Locust Valley, New York. “Tell me: Is it going to get infected?”

Your dog might make a habit of plopping himself down on a favorite spot on the lawn, or lounging on the cool floor tiles in the mudroom. But in the days and weeks after surgery, he’ll need to be lying on clean sheets and bedding. If the dog bed is covered with a thatch of hair and God-knows-what-else, either give it a good go-round in the washing machine, or cover it with a clean sheet or comforter. Be sure to change the bedding frequently.

(All this talk about staying off dirty floors doesn’t mean your dog should seek higher ground: Climbing on couches and beds can strain incisions. Keep your dog off the human furniture.)

Unless it contradicts your veterinarian’s orders, make lots of water available so your dog can rehydrate after surgery. More water intake means more peeing, so plan on lots of walks—always on leash, please, even if it is just to the backyard—as well as the occasional accident if you get can’t out in time.

Controlling Your Dog’s Activity After Surgery

Keeping your dog off floors and less-than-sanitary surfaces is just the beginning. “Dogs are athletes,” says Dr. Infernuso. “Once the inflammation settles down and they feel better, they push themselves. Dogs just don’t get it. So it’s up to you to control their activity.”

While many owners feel sorry for their dogs, confinement is an absolute requirement after surgery. When not intensely supervised, your dog should be in his crate, and all walks need to be on leash—even strolls around the house.

Dr. Infernuso says he’s even had to amputate a dog’s leg as a result of an owner being too blasé about confinement: The dog jumped through a screen door 10 days after returning home, fracturing the surgery site, which later became impossibly infected. “That was 100 percent the owner’s fault,” he says. ” Now I tell people, if you can’t control your dog, I’m not doing surgery, because it’s going to be detrimental to the dog.”

Ripping stitches is another complication that can result from letting your dog do too much, too soon. Dr. Infernuso recalls another case, this time a 100-pound Rottweiler who tore his incision so badly his bladder and intestines were peering through the sewn skin. Initially proclaiming his innocence, the owner eventually admitted to letting the dog jump out of his pickup truck on the trip home.

With dogs who are prone to hyperactive or over-exuberant behavior, Dr. Infernuso will sometimes prescribe Acepromazine, a commonly used sedative. In very severe cases, he will keep the dog on the drug for as long as a month or two, until the healing process is well underway. While keeping a dog sedated that long is not ideal, it beats the alternative if an owner is unable or unwilling to confine a dog properly.

Speaking of confinement, make sure your dog has a quiet, warm spot that affords her lots of rest and few distractions for the first few days of her recovery. Make sure she can’t be bothered by other animals in the household, as well as any small children who can unintentionally push your dog past her limits, especially in the haze of post-surgical pain.

The Dreaded Dog Cone

A dog’s propensity for licking her wounds is another way that bacteria get a foothold; even a surgical site on the head or neck area isn’t safe, because of the potential for constant scratching. As a result, most convalescing dogs are required to wear an Elizabethan collar (also known as a “cone”) or some alternative product. While it does prevent a dog from worrying her wound, this lampshade-like barrier, which attaches to the collar, can obstruct her vision and makes navigating in small places very difficult. For whatever reason, many veterinarians sell Elizabethan collars that are made of very stiff, hard, and opaque plastic. Be advised that many pet supply stores sell similar products that are made of lighter, translucent plastic, which helps the dog see and carry the cone around.

Some owners eventually remove the cone before they should because they feel badly for the dog, who sometimes looks profoundly uncomfortable – or, at the very least, very annoyed. Instead, consider one of the soft fabric cones, which do much the same job without so much rigidity. Dr. Infernuso dissuades people from using inflatable cones, as he finds that while wearing them, “dogs can still reach incisions and open them up.”

dog after surgery

Nursing Your Dog’s Wounds

Knowing how a wound heals—and what it looks like during the process—is tremendously important: Carefully monitoring the incision in the days and weeks after surgery can help you flag early signs of trouble.

Dr. Infernuso instructs his owners to clean the wound area twice a day with an antiseptic solution such as Betadyne or antibiotic ointment, wearing latex gloves to be sure they do not contaminate the incision.

“I don’t know how effective it is in decreasing the bacterial load, but I want people to pay attention to the wound,” he says. Requiring a twice-daily check of the wound not only makes owners feel useful, but it builds in time every day for them to notice any problematic changes.

Immediately after surgery, expect that the incision site will not look happy. “Bruising, swelling, and edema are completely normal,” Dr. Infernuso says, adding that the area might be bluish or reddish in color. In this initial inflammatory stage, which lasts about three to five days, you can expect to see a puffy and bruised area, as the body reacts to the trauma of surgery. The skin may appear to be puckered around the incision; this is normal.

If there is any drainage, it should be clear, but owners should not expect large amounts of it. “You should be concerned if the wound starts looking really hot, really painful to the touch,” Dr. Infernuso says. “Pre-infection, you’ll see serous fluids, followed by organized liquid, usually pus.” Any type of foul-smelling discharge is also not normal. At the first sight of these warning signs, contact your veterinarian, who will likely want a recheck.

After the inflammatory stage, your dog’s body will go into the healing phase. “This is the beginning of collagen formation, and of repair,” Dr. Infernuso explains. If you still see inflammation, redness, and soreness at this juncture, it’s another reason to call your vet.

Manage Your Dog’s Pain

Pain management is certainly important from a compassionate point of view: After all, no one wants to see a dog suffer. But keeping your dog’s pain under control can also have an impact on his recovery.

In the aftermath of surgery, the body can experience a “sympathetic surge,” in which the sympathetic nervous system—which is responsible for “fight or flight” mode—goes into overdrive. This stress response triggers metabolic and hormonal changes that can depress the immune system and impede the healing process. Controlling pain can curb this natural response, leaving the body free to devote its energy to the repair of damaged tissue.

Creating a chart of what medications to give when can be helpful in managing your dog’s prescriptions, which may include antibiotics as well as painkillers. Don’t add any supplements to your dog’s food during the convalescing period without consulting with your vet. If you’ve got one of those dogs who spits like a camel at any attempt to “pill” him, try hiding the capsule in a morsel of delicious food, like a chunk of steak, or Pill Pockets, which are soft treats with an indented center for hiding the pill.

Entertain Your Dog After Surgery

One of the ironic downsides of lessening your dog’s post-operative pain is that it will be more difficult to keep him quiet while he’s recuperating. In the pre-digital age, human convalescents received gifts of word-search books and paperback novels to help them while away the hours; today, bed-ridden hospital patients can be found tapping away at their smart phones and iPads. Dogs get bored, too, but they don’t have Candy Crush Saga as an option. Instead, you need to provide the mental stimulation they need to keep from going stir-crazy.

That old standby—a Kong toy stuffed with treats stirred into peanut butter or yogurt, then frozen—can provide a couple of hours of distraction. Hidden food puzzles, such as the Zoo Active toys developed by Nina Ottosson, and other interactive toys are perfect for keeping your dog’s brain engaged during this time. (See “Puzzle Fun,” WDJ June 2008, for a review of interactive toys.)

Teaching your dog simple tricks that don’t require a lot of physical exertion are a great way to keep his mind occupied and his body quiet: Rolling a ball, barking on command, picking up objects, targeting your hand—you can use shaping and clicker training to easily put these on cue. Scent-discrimination games are another low-impact activity that burn a tremendous amount of mental energy: Choosing between two objects, one of which has your scent, is a game that can be played even if your dog needs to be restricted to her crate.

The variety of games you can play is seemingly endless: A little Googling or a search on Youtube will give you lots of creative ideas.

Rehab Therapy for Dogs

As in human medicine, a variety of therapies are available to help speed your dog’s healing process, including cold-laser therapy, acupressure, and acupuncture.

Getting patients up and moving—always in a controlled setting, of course – can also be very beneficial. “Orthopedic surgeons will not do surgery on humans without physical therapy afterward,” Dr. Infernuso says. “Today, with all these rehab centers for dogs, I advocate for therapy right away.” Water therapy can be a great low-impact option, once concern about keeping your dog’s incision dry is no longer an issue.

For many conditions, physical therapy can enhance recovery, allowing the dog’s muscles to regain their strength in an organized fashion.

And that, in the end, is the whole key to your dog’s success after surgery: Slow, steady progress, in an environment that stresses rest and controlled activity, is the recipe for returning him to his bouncy, bright-eyed self.

Denise Flaim of Revodana Ridgebacks in Long Island, New York, shares her home with three Ridgebacks, 11-year-old triplets, and a very patient husband.

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Time to Get Seriously Social

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This summer is FLYING by. There is so much to do. But there’s one task right under my nose that hasn’t been getting done, that HAS to get rolling: socializing “Mommy,” the Dachshund/Chihuahua-mix I’ve been fostering for . . . gosh, I don’t even know how long.

Let’s see, I went to the shelter looking for a puppy to photograph for an article in the June issue, and we put that together in April . . . When I saw this cute little mommy dog trying valiantly to protect and raise her tiny, single, three-week-old puppy in the shelter, I immediately asked if I could foster them both. I took them home that day.

I didn’t do that much with the mother dog while she was busy raising her baby; they needed to be together. But the puppy was adopted a month ago . . . and while I do take the mother everywhere I take my two dogs, and have her practice the minor daily behaviors I ask them for – come, sit, down, “food bowl wait,” go potty on cue (for pee breaks during the day), hop in the car, get out of the car – I haven’t been focusing solely on her social skills, and she needs remedial work. Is it possible this dog has been here for almost four months, and still hasn’t really met that many people?

I hate to admit it, but yes. The poor little dog doesn’t even have a proper name, yet! It should be something that sort of rhymes with Mommy, though, because she responds really well to that; since she’s been spayed, though, and not going to have to be a mommy anymore, I really want her to have a nice identity of her own.

And that’s the challenge, for two reasons: First, because my local shelter, like so many, is full of Chihuahua-mixes in every shape and color. This “type” of dog is so common that it’s hard for people to be able to pick a really nice one out of a crowd. But this is a very sweet, smart, funny little dog. She’s completely nonreactive to my cats and chickens, and is happy to ignore any other dog as long as they ignore her. If, on a walk, we encounter a yapping, hysterical little dog, or a barky, giant dog on the other side of a fence we are trying to walk past, she sidles calmly to my far side, looks a little blinky, but doesn’t engage with the dog and certainly doesn’t get hysterical herself. She bonds with whoever takes care of her very quickly and tightly, and just sort of goes with the flow.

That said, the second challenge to getting her adopted is the way she “shows” to new people; she’s afraid of new faces and voices. She cowers and tries to hide, and if she’s really trapped and someone comes on very strong, she will growl a little. I’m having every member of my family and every visitor to my office give her treats when they come, and she’s improved a LOT – but I don’t have nearly as many friends coming by as needed to super-socialize her. And I haven’t made an effort to take her out to parks and public spaces where I could work on some dedicated counter-conditioning and desensitization. But that’s what I need to do to get her comfortable enough to be able to find a new home.

So, be it resolved: She’s the project of the month. But, would you help me out with a name?

 

 

 

 

 

Who Doesn’t Scoop Poop?

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It’s very difficult for those of us who always scoop our dogs’ poop to understand those who don’t. I honestly have never heard anyone defend their habit of looking the other way (and then walking the other way!) when their dog defecates somewhere he or she shouldn’t – such as on a public sidewalk, on someone else’s lawn, or outside of a hotel – and I really just can’t imagine what such a person is thinking when they do this.

That said, anyone can be caught without a bag or scooper at some random time. I myself have been guilty of walking my dogs a short distance in my neighborhood without a bag with me after I saw them poop in my own backyard – and then being surprised that one of them still had a little more poop to offer (so to speak) on the walk.

But when I’m caught without a bag, I’ll do anything to find something to pick up the poop. My first tactic is to look for trash – a floating plastic bag, a fast-food wrapper, a soft-drink cup – that I can use. The kind of free advertising newspapers that tend to linger in driveways are good for this purpose. Lacking any of these things, I’ve dumped out coffee I was drinking and used the paper cup to scoop and carry! I’ve also left a leash on the ground near the poop, kept walking until I’ve found something to use, and gone back to where I left the leash to complete my dog-owner responsibilities.

But apparently people do walk away from their dogs’ poop without a second thought! Enough of them do so, in fact, that from time to time we see media reports of another town or neighborhood, or most recently, a large condominium complex, who has engaged the services of a company that can match the DNA in abandoned poop with its canine pooper! The latest was a report in the New York Times about a complex with about 440 condos, counting some 175 dogs among its inhabitants, that recently required all of its residents to register their dogs and submit DNA samples for enrollment in such a poop identification program. 

I have to ask: WHO DOES THIS? And why?

 

 

 

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Car Safety

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One shouldn’t watch the latest videos from the Center for Pet Safety (CPS) on a full stomach. Even though NO ACTUAL DOGS ARE HARMED in the videos, watching a few of them may make you feel ill.

The videos are the product of the CPS’s latest round of testing safety restraint systems for dogs who are passengers in our cars. The CPS, you may remember, is the nonprofit organization prominently featured in WDJ’s January 2015 article, “Restraining Order,” which discussed CPS’s testing of car safety restraints for dogs. (Also discussed at length: the fact that only two harnesses on the market passed the crash-tests. The article, available free to our subscribers, appears here: https://www.whole-dog-journal.com/care/collars-harnesses-leashes-muzzles/whole-dog-journals-car-safety-harness-recommendation/
).

CPS has been testing crates and small-dog carriers – including “regular” carriers (about which no crash-testing or crashworthiness claims have been made) and those that are being specifically marketed with claims of providing increased safety for dogs in car crashes. Some have been sold as “crash-tested,” even though you can see from the CPS’s videos that the products clearly could not have PASSED any significant crash test.

The CPS developed a number of canine crash test dummies so as to replicate the weight and shape of dogs of several sizes. Appropriately weighted and shaped dummies test the products far more accurately and thoroughly than, say, a stuffed animal dog that tips the scales at a fraction of a real dog’s weight.

Even though you know they are dummies, not real dogs, it still makes a person queasy to watch the videos, which show the dummy dogs getting crushed by the fragments of splintering crates, thrown out of disintegrating crates, and lodged half in and half out of wrecked crates. Only one crate for large dogs survived the crash tests intact, and only a few carriers for small dogs kept the small-dog dummies safely inside the carrier and on the seat.

Check out the study and videos (if you dare) – and then let us know: Will these studies change the way you transport your dog?

CPS Crate study:

http://www.centerforpetsafety.org/test-results/crates/2015-crate-study-results/

CPS Carrier Study:

http://www.centerforpetsafety.org/test-results/carriers/2015-carrier-study-results/

 

 

 

 

 

Analyzing Commercial Diets

I couldn’t be more excited to introduce this new column in Whole Dog Journal. I’ve been wanting to find someone to write a regular column about home-prepared cooked and raw diets for WDJ, but no one I’ve discussed it with and proposed it to has been able to commit to the amount of work it’s going to take. Allow me to emphasize the part of that previous sentence that finally opened the door to presenting the column: the phrase no one. You see, several of the people I spoke with were willing to provide some of the work of the column. What I needed to do was to build a team of like-minded and experienced home-prepared diet formulators and raw-diet feeders who could collaborate on the creation of diet guidelines and analysis of products and recipes prepared by other formulators.

Happily, a sort of canine-diet dream team has come together to work on a series of articles that will help owners formulate healthier home-prepared diets for their dogs – or identify the commercial raw diets (fresh, frozen, or dehydrated) that are genuinely nutritionally “complete and balanced” (in contrast to the vast majority that claim to be complete and balanced, but have potentially serious nutrient overages, deficiencies, or imbalances).

All of the people who will contribute to this column are experienced with raw and home-prepared diets, but each brings different strengths to the project. In this, the inaugural installment of the column, I’d like to introduce each of the contributors, briefly describe their backgrounds, and allow them to explain their motivation and goals for this column to you. Each of them has a fascinating and deep “back story” regarding his or her experience and interest in canine nutrition, and I think you will enjoy getting to know them as much as the topics they will soon be writing about.

Then, next month, we’ll dive right in with some analysis of the most common problems they see in the commercial raw diet marketplace. This will help illustrate why most of us would be better off learning to prepare our dogs’ food ourselves, rather than outsourcing the job to commercial manufacturers.

Here is our canine diet analysis team:

– Steve Brown

His first professional career was in the technology industry, but Brown “went to the dogs” in the late 1990s. A search for a small, low-calorie treat for his dog led to his development of a product called Charlee Bear dog treats. This entrée to the pet food industry sparked an interest in canine nutrition – and the more he learned about the field, the less satisfied Brown was with the conventional diets on the market. He developed another very successful product, a line of raw frozen canine diets, “Steve’s Real Food for Dogs,” which made its market debut in 1998 (Brown is no longer affiliated with either Charlee Bear or Steve’s Real Food for Dogs).

Brown has provided consultation services to other raw frozen pet food companies, and wrote two valuable books on canine nutrition, Unlocking the Canine Ancestral Diet and See Spot Live Longer, as well as the booklet, “See Spot Live Longer the ABC Way.” Brown lives near Eugene, Oregon.

Brown will be contributing his knowledge of commercial pet food producers, perspective as an experienced diet formulator, and his amazing database of nutrient information for every ingredient ever used in dog food.

– Steve Brown says – I’m one of the founders of the raw diet industry, and one of the more detailed-oriented formulators in the industry. I’m almost ready to retire from dog food and start my next project, which has nothing to do with dogs or food. But before I retire I have a few things to say and do.

I’m very happy with the growth of fresh, raw, and ancestral-type feeding. Twenty years ago when I started, there were maybe 10 stores in the nation that had freezers for raw pet foods. Now there are tens of thousands of stores selling raw diets and perhaps hundreds of thousands of people who make their own foods. The spectacular growth shows there is tremendous interest in raw and ancestral-type diets for dogs.

I’m quite upset at some companies and some authors of homemade recipes. I’ve seen some bad “raw” diets out there, commercial and homemade. Many people and producers have jumped on the raw bandwagon with little if any basic knowledge of nutrition. I’m particularly upset with some of the best-selling raw diet companies, and their misstatements, poor analyses, and lack of care to do things right.

It’s my goal for the first installment in the column to help educate WDJ’s readers and the overall market on how to identify properly formulated commercial raw diets. I’d also be happy for it to shake up the commercial raw diet industry and force some of the companies that have products in this category to formulate correctly or stop calling their products “complete” foods.

In future articles, we’re going to show you how to evaluate homemade dog food recipes, and then how to make your own ancestral-type homemade diets that meet American (AAFCO) and European (FEDIAF) standards. Once this is done, I can retire.

– Karen Becker

A veterinarian with a passion for promoting species-appropriate, top quality diets for every animal, Dr. Becker is the author of Dr. Becker’s Real Food for Healthy Dogs & Cats, currently in its third edition, and (full disclosure) the creator of one of WDJ’s favorite dog treats, Dr. Becker’s Bites. She incorporates a love of clinical pathology and integrative medicine in her holistic veterinary medical practice, Natural Pet Animal Hospital in Bourbonnais, Illinois (an hour south of Chicago). She attributes much of her clinic’s success to the fact that nutrition is addressed with every patient, at every exam.

Dr. Becker will contribute her long experience with feeding raw and cooked home-prepared diets to dogs, and, in fact, improving the health of her canine patients with properly formulated diets. We will count on her to provide the veterinary perspective on the food/health connection.

– Dr. Becker says – I’ve been a homemade dog food girl since vet school, when the free dry food from a major prescription pet food company sickened my dog; I believe it was caused by ethoxyquin toxicosis. I turned to an intense detoxification protocol and a species-appropriate raw food diet, which I believe saved her life. This experience not only changed my perspective as young holistic veterinarian, but also shaped the way I viewed the formulation of fresh food diets. At that time, there were no raw food diets on the market and I knew most homemade recipes were unbalanced, including my own.

My desire to create nutritionally balanced, species-appropriate meals for my pack and my patients fed my passion for furthering my understanding of nutrient requirements for optimal health, especially as a steady stream of sick animals visited my practice. As commercially available raw food diets began entering the market I assumed these convenient alternatives to entirely processed pet foods would finally create a generation of healthier pets. But that didn’t happen to the extent I was anticipating. In evaluating many of these diets I found there were significant formulation flaws.

I continue to seek out diets and recipes that provide optimal nutrition for dogs and cats. I believe in educating and empowering animal guardians to be able to make wise food choices. This is the best approach for owners who want take control of their pets’ health and well being, and avoid making nutritional mistakes that could ultimately harm their pets.

I am partnering with WDJ and experts in the field of raw food nutrition to provide educational information that fosters positive changes in the pet food industry, positive discussions among holistic veterinarians and nutritionists, and, most importantly, improves the way you choose to nourish your dog.

– Mary Straus

A retired software engineer who began putting her prodigious research and analysis skills to work on canine diets in the late 1990s, Straus calls her deep interest in home-prepared diets an “avocation.” I don’t know anyone else whose hobby has resulted in their contribution of so many searching and in-depth articles (to this publication and others) on canine nutrition. Her work has sparked improvement in many canine diets, both home-prepared and commercial. She lives in the San Francisco Bay area, and shares her discoveries about canine health and optimum nutrition on her website, DogAware.com.

Straus can out-calculate engineers twice her size and has the research tenacity of a terrier in a rat-infested hay barn. She would rather wrestle with a spreadsheet or fact-check a scientific paper on the AAFCO nutrient profiles than write an article about all the anomalies and errors she found – but she’s happy to explain them to other canine-nutrition obsessives. With Straus helping to “run the numbers” on the diets the team analyzes and creates, we can be assured of infallible data.

– Mary Straus says – My interest in raw diets began when I visited Wolf Park in Indiana, and watched them feeding whole deer carcasses to the wolves. I spent the next year researching raw diets before starting my own dogs on a homemade raw diet in 1998.

My interest in nutrition continued to grow as I researched everything I could find over the next 17 years. I don’t recall when Steve Brown and I met, but at some point, he became my mentor and friend, and his book, Unlocking the Canine Ancestral Diet, is one of those I reach for most often when I have a question about homemade diets. I believe that Steve understands more about basic canine nutrition than anyone else, including most veterinary nutritionists, and I have learned a tremendous amount from him. I’m excited that he will be sharing some of his knowledge with us here.

One of the things I learned from Steve is that the amount of fat shown on the guaranteed analysis label of all dog and cat food products may be far less than the actual amount of fat in the food. This is legal, since only the minimum amount of fat is required on the label. The actual amount of fat can be estimated by a complicated formula that relies on the company’s reported number of calories in the food – but is only as reliable as the company’s reported value for calories.

I was shocked to learn that at least one major commercial raw food company deliberately understates the amount of fat in their foods, refusing to respond to multiple requests to provide the actual amount of fat in their food (they’re willing to provide any other nutritional information except that). Note that this problem affects not only raw foods; when this formula is applied to other commercial foods, particularly canned foods (which tend to be higher in fat than dry foods), I found that many must have considerably more fat than the minimum amount on the label in order to account for the calories reported by the manufacturer for that food.

Higher-than-expected fat levels can be problematic. For example, dogs with pancreatitis may be seriously or even fatally harmed by high-fat foods. In other cases, too much fat may cause digestive upset or unwanted weight gain. When portions are restricted enough to prevent weight gain, the nutrient value of the diet may fall below the dog’s requirements. Since it may take years for nutritional deficiencies to cause signs severe enough to recognize, it is impossible to tell whether a diet is complete and balanced just by examining a dog or even by doing blood tests.

As I began analyzing homemade diets myself and comparing them to National Research Council (NRC) and Association of American Feed Care Officials (AAFCO) guidelines, I was surprised by some of the deficiencies I found. Steve helped me to realize that not all the information presented in the USDA National Nutrient Database is always reliable – which is crazy, because virtually everyone (veterinary nutritionists included) who builds complete diets for dogs relies on the information in this database to calculate the nutrient content of their recipes.

For example, in some cases the values for certain nutrients in some foods are missing. This is indicated in the database with a dash – meaning, there is no value for that nutrient in that ingredient available. If you don’t provide a value for that nutrient, it will be calculated as if the ingredient contained zero amount of that nutrient, which may or, more likely, may not be the case.

For example, more than 40 percent of the poultry products in the current USDA database do not measure choline, so if I happen to choose one of those ingredients when analyzing a diet, the diet may appear to be low in choline when in fact the amount of choline may be adequate. A similar percentage of poultry products do not measure vitamin D.

In other cases, by comparing similar items, it becomes obvious that certain nutrient values are inaccurate, due to either testing or data entry errors (I’ve also learned from Steve that lab testing can be notoriously inaccurate). While less common than missing data, these inaccuracies can also affect the ability to determine whether a homemade diet meets guidelines or not.

Steve has created a corrected version of the USDA database, for which he has calculated and inserted values for missing nutrient data and corrected values that were so obviously out of the average range that they that were likely errors. To the best of my knowledge, he is the only one to have done so. Other nutrition analyzers, including those used by veterinary nutritionists, use uncorrected data that may skew results considerably.

As I learned what foods provided certain nutrients, I’d look at ingredient lists for commercial raw, freeze-dried, and dehydrated diets that the manufacturers claimed met AAFCO guidelines, and realized that there was little likelihood that certain nutrients could possibly be provided in adequate amounts. In one case, I called a company to ask about their iodine content, and was told that they had never tested for iodine in their diets!

In other cases, I would compare a nutritional analysis of the food to AAFCO guidelines and realize that there were deficiencies, despite the AAFCO “complete and balanced” statement on the label. In one case where a company’s products definitely did not meet AAFCO guidelines, they chose to do a six-month feeding trial, which is absurdly easy to pass, to justify their claims of nutritional completeness. While this meets AAFCO’s requirements regarding label claims for a “complete and balanced diet,” it doesn’t change the fact that a number of nutrients in this company’s products do not in fact meet current AAFCO guidelines for nutrient levels.

There are also a number of commercial raw food companies that make claims on their websites and in their product literature that their diets are “complete and balanced” without providing an AAFCO “complete and balanced” statement on the product label, which is a violation of labeling laws.

A quick perusal of the ingredient lists indicates that in virtually all of these cases, the diets would not in fact meet AAFCO guidelines. Over time, I’ve noticed certain companies begin to add supplements to their foods, sometimes quietly and without any announcement, and sometimes by introducing new products that now carried an AAFCO statement but which differ substantially from their prior products that they had claimed to be complete. It was clear that they had never done a complete nutritional analysis, and when they did, they likely discovered that their foods did not, in fact, meet the guidelines for a complete and balanced diet.

Remember that commercial diets must meet all of a dog’s nutritional requirements because each may be the only food the dog ever receives.

Next month: How to separate well-formulated, truly “complete and balanced” commercial raw-food diets from the nutritionally incomplete and imbalanced products flooding the market.

Best Dog Friends

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I’ve said it before and I will say it again: There is nothing as valuable as a “best dog friend” (BDF?) for your dog – particularly when you have a young, playful dog. Then, having or knowing a dog who plays well with your dog, and is available to you on a regular basis, is just priceless.

My son’s coonhound, Cole, loves coming to stay at my house when my son is travelling, but not because of who he gets to play with here – because he mostly has to play by himself here. He gets lots of off-leash running and swimming, and lots of love from Nana (me), but no love from my dogs, who are above playing with youngsters anymore, middle-aged bachelors who just don’t want to do that anymore.

However, at my son’s dad’s house, lives Cole’s best friend, Trixie, a German Shorthair Pointer who is not much older than he is, about the same size, and just as fit and as playful as he is. They first met when Cole was about five months old, immediately started playing, and haven’t stopped since. The moment they see each other, they just immediately dive in and start the games: chase games, tug games, bite-face, and more tug. They take turns being the “dog on the bottom” of the wrestling games; neither one is a bully, consistently putting the other dog on the defensive. Cole rolls on his back and uses his long legs to try to fend off Trixie’s jaws, as she goes for his elbows and throat; then she will do a somersault onto a dog bed and allow Cole to try to maul her as she growls and waves her long legs. It’s equal opportunity mauling!

My son lived at his dad’s house for several months after he graduated from college and as he looked for a job, and the dogs were in heaven. He’s since gotten a job and rents a house with friends, so Cole plays with Trixie now only when my son stops by his dad’s house (his stepmom is a fantastic cook, so it’s not infrequent!).

I took these photos the last time the dogs reunited after a week apart. I’ve had Cole at my house for the past three weeks. I can’t wait to see them play when they meet again.

Does your dog have a BDF?

 

 

 

 

 

(Raw Dog Food Tip #3) Relax About Supplements

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One of the things that intimidated me about this diet initially was reading long, detailed lists of what some people supplemented wth on a daily basis. Discussions about whether powdered Icelandic kelp was better that Pacific kelp, or the proper temperature to store flax seed oil, or what vital nutrient would be missing if one fed Brand A fish oil versus Brand B didn’t help one bit! Once I realized the huge array of bio-available nutrients supplied by the raw foods alone, I relaxed and started to apply some common sense to supplementation.

I use supplements in moderation to be sure I am covering all the nutritional bases. Most of my dogs take whole fish oil and E gel caps readily like treats. I use ground meat for phoebe’s supplements, making up a couple of days worth of little supplement-filled meatballs at a time. I feed all supplements with their meals.

For the supplements I do use I buy house brand, human supplements rather than pricier, boutique-y types and find they work just as well. Whenever possible I purchase natural rather than synthetic. One caution: don’t use one of those canine vitamin/mineral all-in-one supplements, especially with a growing puppy – at least not until checking out a particular brand carefully. Many contain calcium, and you don’t want to overdo that because it can cause joint problems with growing puppies.

Certain health issues, like Phoebe’s arthritis, may warrant extras. She gest added glucosamine/chondroitin with MSM with Her evening and it works well to relieve pain. But remember: there is an incredible array of beautifully balanced nutrients in a fresh raw diet. The diet along provides a wealth of nutrients and unlike commercial food and supplements; they are fresh and easily assimilated. Do not be tempted to overdo supplements, you can actually do harm by feeding too many added artificial vitamins and minerals.

Just know that you do not have to give your dog 59 vitamins a day. Many raw feeders use none at all.

To learn more about the benefits of a raw diet for your dog, purchase Raw Dog Food from Whole Dog Journal.

9 Great Warm Up Games and Exercises for Your Dog

[Updated February 6, 2019]

warm up exercises for dogs

1. Walking

Every dog should be walked at least two to three minutes prior to starting activity. For more strenuous activities, walk longer and include some jogging toward the end. There is no better gait for overall exercise than a brisk walk.

2. Tug

Most dogs love to play tug, which is an excellent active-stretching whole-body muscle warmup.

warm up exercises for dogs

 

3. Stand on Hind Legs

Use a treat to lure your dog to put his front feet up on a chair or stand and then reach for the cookie. This helps stretch his hips.

4. Bow

You may be able to use a treat to lure your dog down into the “bow” position from a stand; alternatively, some people “capture” this behavior and put it one cue. (This is done by “catching” the dog when he naturally performs a play bow in the middle of a game such as “chase me,” and using the click of a clicker or a verbal marker, such as the word “Yes!” when he bows, and then giving him a treat. When he starts offering the bow in hopes of getting a treat, add a verbal cue or hand signal, and continue to mark and reinforce the behavior, until he firmly associates the cue, the behavior, and a reward.) The bow provides a great stretch of the spine, hips, and shoulders.

warm up exercises for dogs

 

5. Cookie Stretches

Another steal from the equine world (called “carrot stretches”), these are a dog favorite. Take a treat and ask the dog to reach around his body without moving his feet, stretching his spine and shoulders toward the treat. You want him to reach around his body. Don’t expect him to reach all the way to his hips on the first few stretches. Remember, this is a warmup. Do this to the left and to the right several times, rewarding him when he reaches for it by stretching his shoulders and neck around to the treat. Great for spinal stretching.

6. Puppy Gymnastics

Named because it involved the basic movements a dog learns as a puppy, it involves repeatedly asking the dog to sit, down, stand up, circle left, circle right – done multiple times. It’s a terrific warm-up exercise for the whole body that’s made all the more fun by rewarding the efforts every couple of moves.

7. Circle Left/Right

Many dogs are actually taught the words right and left with this game. Take a treat, say right, and lure your dog around in a tight circle to the right. Eventually, you may say “Right,” and he’ll spin right around. Repeat to the left. Builds flexibility.

8. Backing Up

There are many ways to teach your dog to back up, but one of the simplest is to ask him to stand still and simply walk toward him. When he takes a step backward, immediately reward it (or click and reward). With repetition, you can eventually say, “Back,” and he’ll quickly back right up, which is a terrific warmup for the rear end muscles.

9. Side-Stepping

Taught in a manner similar to backing up, this helps exercise helps warm up the glutes and hips.

Preventing Exercise Injury for Your Dog by Warming Up and Cooling Down

[Updated August 9, 2017]

active dog warm ups

Professional human athletes never skip a proper warmup. That’s because research has proven, repeatedly, that preparing your muscles for upcoming physical activity reduces the risk of physical injury. And for them, an injury could impact their wallet with down time.

Actually, an injury to our dog could impact our wallets, too, translating into veterinary bills. More importantly, it means down time for our canine pal, so we don’t want him to overindulge in activity he isn’t physically ready to perform.

Note: We are assuming your dog is properly conditioned for the task at hand. If your dog isn’t physically fit, the warmup alone could even be too much for him. Fatigue can also result in injuries. Watch for limping, avoidance, loss of interest, cringing when you touch him, and excessive panting. It’s important to know when your dog has had enough and stop. If you’re not sure how hard your dog can exercise, talk with your veterinarian or a professional trainer.

Warm Up Your Dog Before Exercise

Consider how most dogs spend their days while you’re at work. Whether inside or out, they’re rarely active. They’re waiting for you to return home. Sure, they might mosey on over to the water bowl, but then they’ll flop down and continue to wait. It’s even worse if you have to keep your dog in a crate or kennel for more than a few hours.

This long period of inactivity causes cold and contracted muscles. Unprepared for activity, a cold muscle is more easily injured – and recovery can take six weeks or more of inactivity, during which time more fitness can be lost. A warm muscle is ready to stretch and support.

Of course, warm muscles can be injured, too, but it’s still wise to get your dog’s “muscle motor” going before engaging in strenuous activity. A warmup increases the heart rate, which generates greater circulation, which delivers more oxygen to the muscles. As his muscles warm and lengthen, they become more pliable, ready to flex, bend, and move. He’ll be alert physically and mentally, whether it’s playing just fetch or practicing a disc dog routine for competition.

If all you’re going to do is take your dog for a long walk, the warmup might be walking slowly for two or three minutes. In fact, nearly every warmup (for any sport) should begin with five to 10 minutes of walking. Toward the end of the period, you can start ramping things up a bit, depending upon what you plan to do with your dog.

“Warmup routines need to vary for the level of exertion expected of the dog. All dogs who compete should start off with at least a few minutes of walking, especially if they had been crated,” says Andrea Lee, MS, DVM, of Syracuse, New York, an owner and trainer of Brittanys with conformation and agility championships. “My warmup routine depends on the age of the dog and the dog’s orthopedic history. My older dog who has had multiple stifle injuries and whose back sometimes gets sore receives the most extensive warmup (and cooldown). I will take her through five minutes of walking, followed by two to three minutes of trotting and a few sprints – actually, recalls or else I have to sprint with her! Then I use some active stretching.”

Active stretches, not static stretches, are acceptable for warmups. The term “active stretching” means the dog is doing the muscle stretching, not the person, such as the dog reaching forward for a treat, stretching his back. Your dog isn’t likely to stretch himself beyond his comfort zone.

A “static stretch,” on the other hand, is when the person stretches the dog’s muscles, such as by pulling gently on a hind leg. Static stretches can damage cold muscles and should only be used during the after-activity cooldown (more on that below).

“I use warmup stretches with my dog with the orthopedic history, but prefer to do active stretches so that the muscles are not overstretched if the dog is not warm enough yet. I usually do these with something yummy the dog can lick, and these stretches mostly involve the spine and neck because when she runs, she hyperextends her back,” Dr. Lee says.

Timing your warmup is important because as soon as the dog stops moving, his muscles begin to cool and contract. Schedule your warmup for no more than 20 or 30 minutes prior to the activity.

“To keep my dog warm while waiting for her turn in the ring, we walk and practice some of her old rehab moves, mostly moving backward and side-stepping,” Dr. Lee says. “My goal is to have her lightly panting when we are ready to start.”

Tailor your warmup to the activity at hand. If you’re competing in a sport that requires jumping, like agility, you’ll want to include some warmup jumps before entering the ring. If you’re doing lure coursing, you’ll want to include some increasingly fast running. Disc dog? Be sure you have your dog do some turns, circles, and hip exercises.

“My younger dogs get walked for at least five minutes, then outside the ring, we do hand touches alternating sides so they have to bounce back and forth. We also spin right and left and practice heeling,” Dr. Lee says. “When I did obedience, we practiced lots of heeling outside the ring, not only to warm up the dog, but also to hopefully gain her focus.”

Cooling Down After a Work Out

Just as important to your dog’s athletic health is what you do with your dog after her intense exercise.

As we said earlier, muscular cooldown and contraction begins as soon as your dog stops working. Post activity, chances are his heart and respiratory rates are still high, and he may be panting. If your dog’s been running, just slow to a normal walk and gradually allow the dog to slow further. The cooldown period can be as little as five minutes; just watch for signs your dog is returning to normal. For example, her panting should slow down, slow down some more, and unless it’s hot outside, she should begin to breathe with her mouth closed. Offer her some fresh, cool water to keep her hydrated, and then you can start some gentle massage.

Describing how to do static stretches is beyond the scope of this article, but if you already do static stretches on your dog’s front legs/shoulders and rear legs/hips, make sure you attempt these only during this cooldown phase, when the dog’s muscles are warm and fully pliable. Always use gentle, steady pressure, staying within the dog’s comfort level. If he objects, you are pulling too hard or in an improper direction. It’s wise to work with an experienced person the first time you use these stretches, as you can cause harm, too. Remember that you’re not just influencing the limb you manipulate; consider all the muscles, tendons, and joints that are connected to it, as well.

“I do stretches as part of a cooldown for my dog with the orthopedic history. I do brisk walking, then normal paced walking, then slower walking, then massage and active stretching. My younger dogs just get a walk. I do not want them to be panting heavily when they are placed in the crate after an agility run,” says Dr. Lee.

Keep the ambient temperature in mind, too, when your dog completes exercise. If it’s very warm out, you may want to use a little water to help cool your dog (see “How to Prevent Heat Stroke in Dogs,” WDJ July 2015). If it’s cold, you may want to put a coat on your dog prevent a too-rapid cooling of the muscles, which could cause cramps.

Improve Your Dog’s Athletic Performance!

Research has repeatedly shown that warmup and cooldown sessions improve athletic performance. Equestrians have been long-time proponents of warming up and cooling down their horses. When I learned to ride, we were taught that every ride started and ended with a 10-minute walk, followed by walking the horse by hand until he was completely cool. For many dog owners it can be just as simple.

“For pet owners whose dogs like to play, I’d recommend starting off with some leash walking prior to hard play.,” Dr. Lee says. “If the dog loves fetch, start with some shorter, lower tosses and build up to the longer, higher throws. Reverse for the cooldown.”

Take the time and care to provide simple, effective, and healthy procedures, tailored for your dog’s activity level. Compared to a painful injury, expensive treatment, and lengthy rehabilitation, it’s worth the small investment of time.

Cynthia Foley is an active horsewoman and agility-dog competitor in upstate New York.

Beauty for Ashes

Competing with our Sheltie Asta at her first agility trial was an answer to our prayers. After her diagnosis, we lived with months of uncertainty about what type of life she might have. Following her lovely debut, a friend aware of Asta’s condition commented on how “normal” it all looked. But our path to that first agility competition was anything but “normal” because Asta has a mental illness.

People very rarely discuss mental illness in dogs, even though many families face this situation. The silence on this topic hampers them from finding much needed help and support.

This is the article I wish had been available to us when Asta’s symptoms began – the story of one dog’s journey through mental illness.

Bright Beginnings

By June 2012, my husband Ken and I had been on puppy wait lists for more than a year. At our first encounter, 9-week-old Asta and I quickly connected, but I wasn’t sure if a dog of her petite size was the right fit for our family. When Ken and I visited her two weeks later, Asta chose us as much as we chose her, and we promised her a forever home.

Named after the crime-solving dog in “The Thin Man” movies from the 1930s and ’40s, Asta is our fifth Sheltie. We love the breed for their beauty, intelligence, and willingness to work with their people. Our first Sheltie introduced us to dog sports, and each of our dogs has earned performance titles. We hoped Asta would one day, too.

Our first weeks together were happy. Blessed with a sunny disposition, Asta loved to learn and was a star at puppy kindergarten. Our primary-care vet, Dr. Karen Hoffmann, borrowed a line from Mary Poppins to describe her: “Practically perfect in every way!” Asta enjoyed meeting new people and dogs. Very little bothered her.

Looking back, though, there were signs that something was amiss. Shortly after coming home, Asta periodically chased her tail (with one or two spins) during meal preparation. She also frequently licked our fireplace, even though I kept spraying it with Bitter Apple.

The list of odd behaviors grew along with Asta. At four months old, she often stared at one of our end tables for as much as 30 seconds at a time, although there was nothing unusual on or behind the table. Her tail-chasing in our kitchen increased, with one episode lasting more than 38 seconds. I made mental notes, but wasn’t particularly concerned.

Into the Abyss

In mid-September, 5-month-old Asta suddenly started taking every opportunity to race along our fenceline as if she was chasing something – but nothing was ever there. She would also chase after things that weren’t there during walks; she’d run straight up steep hills after figments of her imagination.

I assumed that these odd behaviors were just a training issue. But no training techniques helped, and our puppy class instructor had no suggestions. We didn’t want her repeating undesirable behaviors, so we kept trying to stop her.

I contacted acquaintances with experience in dog training and behavior, but didn’t find much help. While my first email inquiry mentioned the possibility of obsessive-compulsive disorder (OCD), I refrained from “diagnosing” the behavior myself, since I knew well there could be other explanations.

The frequency of Asta’s odd behaviors rapidly escalated. Her tail-chasing occurred more frequently, in more contexts, and in a specific pattern (four spins to the right, four to the left, then four to the right). Her chasing after invisible things moved indoors, where she paced along the baseboards as if hunting for something. Many times, when we stopped her chasing behaviors, Asta would suddenly focus on us as if to say, “Oh, you’re there!”

About a month after these odd behaviors started, I took Asta to our veterinarian for her routine six-month well-puppy visit. I showed video to our primary-care vet, but had difficulty explaining the symptoms because they made no sense. With such limited information, Dr. Hoffmann thought Asta’s quirks could be just a phase. If I remained concerned, it was her recommendation that I consult with certified dog training and behavior professional Pat Miller.

While my gut told me something was wrong – it was more than a phase – my work schedule couldn’t accommodate a consult with Miller. Instead, I arranged for a home visit by an Associate Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist. She thought that we might need help from a veterinary behaviorist – a veterinarian who specializes in behavior – but she gave us a prevention and management plan to try. In addition, she taught me to describe Asta’s symptoms in terms of duration, intensity, and frequency.

The behaviorist’s plan reduced Asta’s symptoms, but at significant cost. Because of the plan’s stringent restrictions, Asta was always stressed (like the whole family) and her world shrank. After two weeks, the behaviorist said Asta’s repetitive behaviors were “abnormal” and would return; she advised that we contact Dr. Hoffmann to get a veterinary behaviorist consult.

When Dr. Hoffmann called, we discussed Asta’s worrisome symptoms. She recommended several specialists, and then asked how I was doing. I said I felt somehow responsible for Asta’s problems, and she replied that is a common response when people see their pets suffer. Then she firmly and kindly stated that Asta’s issues were not my fault.

Since Asta’s symptoms were back and growing worse, I quickly set up a long-distance consult with Dr. Hoffman’s top recommendation: veterinary behaviorist Karen Overall, VMD, author of a textbook on small-animal behavior conditions. I rushed to pull together and overnight all of the information Dr. Overall requested. She expected the consultation would take two to three weeks to complete.

Asta’s descent into the abyss of uncontrollable, repetitive behaviors had been swift and inexorable. Her symptoms erupted around mid-September. By early December, she was on the verge of self-mutilation during tail-chasing, our house was barricaded to keep her from chasing invisible things along our baseboards, and we couldn’t walk her at any time of day or night (even for a short potty break) without her chasing things that weren’t there. We were desperate.

In mid-December Dr. Overall emailed her seven-page evaluation with 78 pages of attachments to Dr. Hoffmann and me. When the recommended ophthalmology consult and blood tests ruled out other medical conditions, Asta’s diagnosis was obsessive-compulsive disorder.

While much remains unclear about this complex disorder, OCD is currently believed to involve issues with brain circuitry and chemistry. Dr. Overall’s attachments and other resources helped us better understand OCD.

In OCD, normal dog behaviors, such as hunting, eating, and grooming, are repeated in excess (duration, intensity, frequency) and out of context. Common canine OCD behaviors include tail-chasing, fly-snapping, light-chasing, and licking. Hallucinations (as when Asta chased things that weren’t there) can be involved. The prevalence of OCD is estimated at 1 to 8 percent of the general dog population, but occurs more frequently in certain breeds (such as Bull Terriers and Dobermans) and lines.

While OCD can emerge in dogs as young as three months and into young adulthood (18-36 months), why it develops remains unclear. Many people believe that abuse, neglect, boredom, and stress cause OCD, which can lead to families being blamed for their dog’s illness (see “The Blame Game,” in the box, above right). However, even well-cared-for dogs, like Asta, can develop OCD. A genetic basis has long been suspected; two research studies identifying gene and gene variants in OCD dogs were published in 2010 and 2014.

With no single test for OCD, diagnosis is made by behavior history, observation of behaviors (either directly or by video), and ruling out other medical conditions. The differential diagnosis often includes epilepsy, dermatologic conditions, and gastrointestinal issues. Early diagnosis and treatment are critical; the more the dog has practiced OCD behaviors, the harder it is to extinguish them. Working with a board-certified veterinary behaviorist like Dr. Overall is vital, since these specialists have the training and expertise to diagnose and treat these conditions.

As Asta experienced, untreated OCD typically worsens. OCD behaviors can take hours of a dog’s time, interfere with quality of life, and lead to injury, such as bare spots from excessive grooming, bleeding paws from obsessive pacing, and bites during tail-chasing. Dogs can die from OCD, either due to self-inflicted injury or euthanasia for seriously problematic behavior.

There is no “magic bullet” to treat OCD, which is incurable and usually requires lifelong care. Treatment involves a combination of medication, behavior modification, and management. Certain antidepressants, like Prozac, are used to treat human and canine OCD. Behavior modification involves teaching the dog relaxation and self-calming skills, as well as behaviors incompatible with his OCD symptoms. Management entails controlling the environment (for example, avoiding OCD triggers). Prognosis varies from dog to dog, but is positively affected by owner commitment and early diagnosis and treatment.

The Tide Turns

The use of behavioral medications for dogs can be controversial. One common misconception is that these medicines turn dogs into glassy-eyed zombies. Instead, on medications Asta has become a bright-eyed, energetic dog fully engaged in life, rather than preoccupied with OCD behaviors most of the time.

Dr. Overall recommended two medications for Asta: clomipramine, an antidepressant that treats OCD; and gabapentin, an adjuvant therapy. She requested regular updates be sent to her and Dr. Hoffmann, so they could monitor Asta’s progress.

Within a week of starting gabapentin, Asta started cuddling with us again, resumed some normal play behaviors, and showed slight decreases in some OCD symptoms. As her clomipramine dose was increased to the therapeutic range, we saw additional subtle improvements. The tide was slowly turning.

With the medications taking effect, we began behavior modification. Asta and I spent 15 minutes a day doing Dr. Overall’s formal relaxation protocol. During walks Asta was reinforced for checking in with us or playing tug on her leash instead of chasing hallucinations. We rewarded sits and downs, behaviors incompatible with tail-chasing. We enrolled Asta in Control Unleashed, a class for “dogs with issues” that uses positive methods. Dr. Overall carefully monitored Asta’s progress and compassionately answered our questions.

We didn’t know what the future held for Asta. I never asked Dr. Overall for a prognosis because I was too afraid of the answer. I never set recovery goals for Asta to avoid putting pressure on her or feeling disappointed with her. Instead I kept trying each day to get a little more “normal” into our lives.

As Asta’s primary caregiver, I felt isolated and alone with her diagnosis. Experience taught me that I couldn’t tackle the complexities of OCD on my own, but needed help from experts. Instead of getting frustrated at my inability, I gently reminded myself, “Be unafraid to ask for help.”

Despite improvements over those first eight weeks of treatment, life with Asta was still difficult. She quickly lost control when she saw wildlife during walks, which exacerbated her OCD. She had many challenging attention-seeking behaviors. Our nerves were frayed from dealing with these issues on top of her OCD. “Be unafraid to ask for help,” I told myself as I scheduled a consult with Pat Miller, who had worked with and written about OCD dogs.

“What Now?”

In March 2013, Asta and I drove to Peaceable Paws, Pat’s facility in northwestern Maryland. Pat was compassionate, and empathized with the difficulties of living with Asta’s OCD. But she also expertly dissected Asta’s problem behaviors and had me commit to work her treatment plan. I felt renewed hope.

But there was an unexpected twist to our visit. As Pat commented that Asta’s affect was slightly flattened, I realized that I had noticed some recent mild sluggishness and inappetence. When I informed Dr. Overall, she explained that these mild symptoms could be due to re-regulation, a process where the body adjusts to medication. She was very supportive as she educated us on our options, including the complexities of switching medicines. Since Asta’s OCD symptoms were improving, we all agreed to continue with the medication regimen, but monitor closely.

Dr. Overall had warned us that OCD has lots of ups and downs, which I felt anew. After so much improvement, I feared Asta was losing ground. I tried sharing our experiences with people outside of our trusted network of specialists and friends and was told Asta needed a new home and I didn’t know how to handle her. I was very discouraged.

Out of the blue, a song helped me cope. “What now?” sang Stephen Curtis Chapman. “What will you do with this treasure you’ve found?” The lyrics reminded me how precious Asta is and encouraged me to keep trying.

After weeks of watchful waiting, the flattened affect, inappetence, and sluggishness from re-regulation abated. With Asta stabilized on medications, the 8-month-long acute crisis was finally over. Dr. Overall and I agreed that it was time to treat OCD as a chronic condition that we live with and manage.

In this new phase, we took to heart Pat’s advice to “make haste slowly.” Her point was that we shouldn’t rush change, but build a solid foundation. We continued with behavior modification, although sometimes it didn’t seem like much was happening.

But the tiny changes from the behavior modification added up. After 10 months of treatment, Asta’s tail- and hallucination-chasing symptoms had decreased significantly, and she was often choosing to self-calm. Their response was touching, a celebration for us all.

Doors of Opportunity

Many educational resources recommend getting OCD dogs involved in performance activities, like agility, to give them a healthy outlet. However, none explain how to do this to truly benefit the dog. While both Dr. Overall and Pat Miller expressed some concerns about agility for Asta, they agreed we could try it as long as I monitored her reactions.

In March 2013 Asta and I started an agility foundation class with a skilled instructor who let dogs learn at their own pace. Before the onset of OCD, Asta learned quickly, but in agility class she was often slow to master new skills. Any time I got discouraged, Ken calmly affirmed that he thought Asta could do it and helped with her training.

After nine months of agility training and a year of treatment, Asta clearly communicated that she wanted “more.” With a door of opportunity opening, I took her to practice sessions where she completed complicated obstacle sequences. Her instructor saw the improvements and moved her up a class level. When a classmate commented that Asta changed dramatically over a three-week period, I couldn’t explain why. Following her debut in January 2014, Asta’s agility career blossomed.

More doors opened. In March 2014 Asta became less focused on chasing her outdoor hallucinations, and instead of physically stopping her, I could successfully use Pat’s verbal positive interruptor technique. In May I was astonished to see her stopping the hallucinatory-chasing behavior before I could interrupt it! These changes enabled Asta to spend some supervised time off-leash in our fenced backyard, sunbathing, digging, and hanging out with us, just like our other dogs.

Even well-controlled OCD waxes and wanes. With ongoing medication, behavior modification, and management, Asta has experienced 80 to 90 percent symptom improvement since diagnosis. Now we get to focus on Asta, instead of her OCD.

Beauty for Ashes

OCD has cost us dearly. The symptoms were stressful and uncomfortable for Asta – and the rest of the family! The illness took over large parts of her life and ours. Since OCD rarely goes away completely, we must keep dealing with it. Asta will always experience certain OCD-related restrictions, which sometimes affect our other dogs. Being unfairly blamed for Asta’s illness also took its toll on us.

But on this side of the recovery process we see how we have been given beauty for ashes. With continued treatment Asta leads a high-quality life. Our bond with her has been strengthened from all that we have been through. Our lives have been immeasurably enriched by the care, kindness, and compassion Asta’s treatment team, family, and friends have shown us on this journey. Each day we experience the miracle of Asta’s recovery.

Oddly enough, OCD has taught me so much above love. Before she stabilized on medications, Asta’s behaviors were so difficult that many times I didn’t feel love toward her – or even like her. But as Fred Rogers (of “Mister Rogers’ Neighborhood”) once said, “Love isn’t a state of perfect caring. It is an active noun like struggle. To love someone is to strive to accept that person exactly the way he or she is, right here and now.” We struggled long and hard, and that reveals the depth of our love for Asta, OCD and all.

We have no idea where Asta’s journey will lead us next. But that journey would be incomplete if we didn’t share her story so that other families in similar situations know that they are not alone in the struggle.

Susan Klavon lives in Gaithersburg, Maryland, where she coordinates a county-wide project that provides holiday assistance to needy residents. Asta is working on her CPE and AKC agility championships.

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