You can feed your dog tomatoes, but wash them and cut them into tiny pieces that are fed sparingly.
Credit: Jbosley 58 | Getty Images
If you want to feed tomatoes to your dog, feed only the red fleshy part of a ripe tomato and cut the tomato into small pieces. Never feed green tomatoes or the green parts on a red tomato to your dog. Your dog also should not consume tomato leaves or tomato stems, as they contain solanine and tomatine, which are toxins that may make your dog sick. Just as with our own food, wash the tomato before cutting it up and feeding any of it to your dog.
Most dogs love vegetables, including tomatoes. They’re a healthy treat, although they probably aren’t as popular as green beans and carrots when it comes to canine veggie favorites.
How Much Tomato Can My Dog Eat?
To feed tomato to your dog, cut the tomato into small pieces, about a half inch in size. How many of these bite-size tomato goodies your dog can eat depends, of course, on the dog’s size. With small dogs, we would start with one or two bites; large dogs might start with three to four. There is no set “feed this many” rule. But, with all dogs, introduce tomatoes lowly because you don’t want to cause digestive upset. Dogs may react differently. Reactions like diarrhea and vomiting are signs that your dog has eaten too many tomato bites.
Note: There is always a chance of an allergic reaction, like with any other “new” food item, when you feed tomatoes. If your dog begins to pant abnormally, shows respiratory depression, tremors, or any kind of weakness, call your veterinarian immediately. If you can’t reach your vet, call the ASPCA Poison Control Center at 888-426-4435 or the Pet Poison Helpline at 855-764-7661. There may be a charge for the call, but it’s worth every penny.
Can Dogs Eat Cherry Tomatoes?
Cherry tomatoes, also known as grape tomatoes, are a hybrid tomato believed to have developed naturally mixing a wild tomato and a garden variety tomato. They’re tomatoes, so the same “rules” for sharing them with your dog apply: in moderation, no stems or leaves, no green parts, and a tiny piece.
Can Dogs Eat Tomatoes Raw?
Yes, dogs can eat raw tomatoes, but no stems, leaves, or green parts, and always feed tomatoes in moderation. Honestly, most dogs are likely better off with raw tomatoes, as there are concerns with cooked tomatoes about added ingredients that could be toxic to your dog.
Can Dogs Eat Tomato Sauce?
Unless you’re making your tomato sauce—and know every ingredient included—we would avoid sharing tomato sauce with your dog. The concerns about common additives like garlic and onion are just not worth the risk. Many typical ingredients in tomato sauce are not acceptable for your dog, and most dogs prefer a small piece of a ripe raw tomato.
Overall, veggies like tomatoes can make good treats, especially for overweight dogs. Tomatoes are rich in nutrients like vitamin C, vitamin A, and folate (vitamin B9). Tomatoes are also a good source of fiber.
Today, “canned” foods come in many types of packages, including metal cans (of course), as well as heat-sealed plastic trays, foil/polymer film pouches, and foil/plastic/paperboard boxes. The cans, being 100% recyclable, are the most environmentally friendly, but the other packages offer more flexibility for small servings from a freshly opened container.
There are many reasons people feed canned food to their dogs (we will get into those in a minute) and one main reason why more people do not feed canned: The price of canned food—especially the best canned foods—is prohibitively expensive for many of us, unless, perhaps, you’re feeding just one small dog.
But let’s go back to the reasons to feed canned food—reasons that may justify the cost for owners of certain dogs:
With at least 75% moisture, and as much as 85% or more, canned dog food is one of the best possible ways to make sure that a dog with kidney and other urinary tract issues consumes enough moisture. Dogs who are prone to dehydration or who are given diuretic medications benefit from a high-moisture diet.
Canned foods are generally very low in carbohydrates, or contain zero carbohydrates. (Remember, dogs have zero nutritional requirement for carbs. They can obtain all of their nutritional needs from protein and fat sources.) This is most helpful when feeding dogs who have cancer. (Tumors use carbohydrates as an energy source, so you want your cancer-patient dog to consume as few carbs as possible.)
The vast majority of canned foods are made with fresh (or fresh-frozen) meats instead of meat meal, which has been highly processed before its potential inclusion into a secondary food-production process. Overall, the ingredients in canned foods are subjected to much less processing than those in dry foods.
Canned foods are more digestible than kibble, meaning, your dog will absorb more nutrients in the food. This helps dogs who have sensitive stomachs or other digestive issues.
With their high meat content, canned foods are extremely palatable to most dogs, without the addition of sweeteners or other palatants. This, and the physical properties of loaf-style canned food (spoonable, spreadable, freezable), make it highly convenient for use in behavior-change or -maintenance applications (filling Kong or Toppl toys, lick mats, and other time-consuming food puzzles). Other people “top” their dog’s kibble with a bit of canned food, whether to help entice picky eaters or to just give their dogs something more delicious than kibble.
Best Canned Dog Food by Category
With all of these compelling reasons to feed canned, why don’t you? If the burden of having to choose an appropriate product from the overwhelming number of canned dog foods that are on the market is holding you back, maybe we can help!
Using the criteria we’ve always used to select and highlight foods (which you can view below) we’ve chosen at least three products to recommend in eight different categories, which, in turn, were chosen to highlight attributes that different dog owners might have foremost in mind for meeting their dogs’ needs. The categories are:
Some dogs need only an adult-maintenance diet, which generally contain lower amounts of fat and protein (and a few other nutrients) than puppies do, whereas growing puppies, pregnant or nursing moms, and highly active dogs need an “all life stages” food. (Remember, the nutrient requirements for growth [i.e., “puppy food”] and foods for “all life stages” are the same.)
Beyond those two basic categories, your dog might have specific needs for a limited-ingredient or grain-free diet, or one with lower amounts of fat or higher amounts of protein. Some human needs and priorities have been considered, too: Some owners feel strongly about feeding a diet that does not contain animals, and still others might have budgetary limitations; we have selections to meet those criteria, too!
In order to choose our favorites in each of these categories, and in addition to our usual selection criteria having to do with the candidates’ ingredients, we considered our own experiences with the companies. Have they invited us or allowed us to personally tour their production facilities or speak to their formulators?
We also took into account the companies’ demonstrated willingness to disclose to us their manufacturing location or locations and the qualifications of the person or people who formulated the companies’ products, and to provide us with technical information about their products, such as complete nutrient analyses and the results from any digestibility studies they’ve conducted.
Of course, it’s great if you don’t even have to ask for this information. Companies that publish complete nutrient analyses for their products on their websites will always get more consideration from us. Why every dog food maker doesn’t do this is beyond our comprehension.
Here are our top picks in canned dog food:
Best Adult Maintenance Canned Dog Food
Rawz 96% Chicken & Chicken Liver Dog Food
Things we like:
Clean, simple recipe; essentially just chicken and chicken liver (plus a vitamin/mineral mix)—and no carbs
Expanded nutrient analysis available on company website
Blackwood Chicken & Chicken Liver With Pumpkin & New Zealand Mussels (Min 1.5% fat)
Hound & Gatos Pork & Liver Recipe (Min 3.5% fat)
Best Grain-Free Canned Dog Food
Caru Classics Turkey With Lamb Stew
Things we like:
No reliance on (and typical over-representation of) legumes to replace grain
Amount of taurine on the guaranteed analysis
Food is made with 100% human grade ingredients
Moderate protein and fat levels
First 10 ingredients: Turkey, turkey bone broth, pumpkin, apples, carrots, sweet potatoes, green beans, lamb, tapioca starch, lentils
Protein: Min 5%
Fat: 2%
Calories: 258 Kcal/12-oz carton
Cost: $0.42/oz
Runners up:
Wellness Complete Duck & Sweet Potato
Instinct Original Real Chicken Recipe
Nulo’s Small Breed Pâté for Puppy
Best Canned Dog Food Containing Alternative Proteins
Health Extension Vegetarian Entrée
Note: The advantage of canned dog food is its ability to provide a food with a high meat inclusion in a long-lasting, shelf-stable container. But for those who want to feed a canned diet, and don’t want to or can’t give their dog meat, here you go!
We prefer non-legume carb sources; our top pick contains only one legume.
Of the canned vegetarian foods we found, this has the most protein at 7%
First 10 ingredients: Sweet potatoes, butternut squash, water sufficient for processing, brown rice, carrots, olive oil, peas, blueberries, cranberries, kale
Protein: Min 7%
Fat: 2%
Calories: 276 Kcal/can
Cost: $0.30/oz
Runners up:
Halo Holistic Adult Dog Garden of Vegan Recipe
Natural Balance Vegetarian Recipe
WDJ’s Canned Dog Food Selection Criteria
Here’s the criteria we use to choose the products that we include on our “Approved Canned Foods” list, as well as our selections for the overall “Best” canned foods.
Top-quality canned dog foods exhibit these hallmarks of quality:
Named animal protein sources at the top of the ingredients list. Ingredients in pet food are listed in order of the weight of that ingredient in the formula, so you want to see a named animal protein source or sources in at least one of the top two spots on the list of ingredients. (“Named” means the species is identified: chicken, beef, lamb, etc.)
Water or broth may be first or second on the list, as the addition of water is often necessary for processing. But the animal protein source or sources should appear immediately after that.
If plant proteins are present in the food, we like to see them play a supporting role, appearing lower on the ingredient list – no earlier than the fifth or sixth position. The amino acid profiles offered by animal proteins suit dogs better than those of peas, potatoes, corn, soy, etc.
Named fat sources. Just as with the animal protein sources, any animal fat sources should be identified by species (i.e., chicken fat, beef fat, pork fat, etc.).
Whole foods. When vegetables, fruits, grains, and/or other carbohydrate sources such as chickpeas, peas, or sweet potatoes are used, to the extent possible, they should be whole.
Ingredients that have already been processed, shipped, and stored before they are mixed with other ingredients and processed again (canned) lose more of their nutritive value along the way than those that are shipped and stored whole before their inclusion into the wet food mix.
Ingredients that are certified as organic, humanely raised, or sustainably farmed. Companies will use wiggle words to lend the impression that they are using the best ingredients available. Certifications give these claims credibility.
Here are the things we look out for – undesirable attributes that indicate a lower-quality food:
Animal products that are not specified by species. Meat, meat meal, poultry, poultry meal, animal fat, poultry fat: If your dog is intolerant of or allergic to certain ingredients, you have to know what you’re feeding him.
Animal by-products. This includes meat by-products and poultry by-product. We would strongly prefer to know what, exactly, is being included in the food, instead of “by-products” being used as a catch-all term for whatever. In some cases, the “by-products” used may well be nutritious chicken liver, chicken kidneys, and chicken hearts – well, say that then!
Ingredient splitting. This is where two or more very similar food “fractions” appear on the ingredients list. Because the ingredients are listed in descending order of their weight, a manufacturer can make it appear that a high-quality ingredient is represented in the food in a greater amount than it is. If all the iterations of an ingredient (to use a common example, brown rice, white rice, brewers rice) were combined or reconstituted, they would outweigh and push the higher-quality ingredient down on the ingredients list.
Added sweeteners. Sweeteners are sometimes used in low-quality foods to increase their palatability. In canned foods, the protein- and fat-rich meaty ingredients should be enough to tempt the appetite of any dog. If sweeteners are needed in a canned food, we’d be highly suspicious.
Artificial colors, flavors, or preservatives. None of these are needed (or common, thankfully) in canned food.
Each of the canned dog foods we have included in our “Best Canned Dog Food” selections, and all of the foods on our “Approved Canned Dog Foods” list, meet our selection criteria for top-quality canned foods (described above) – but we’ve also included some softer criteria in our choices for these “Best” selections, including:
Past experience with the company. (Have they been, in our experience, easy to reach and quick to respond to questions? Have they invited us or allowed us to personally tour their production facilities or speak to their formulators?)
A company’s demonstrated willingness to provide its location, qualifications of the person/people who formulated the company’s products, complete nutrient analyses, digestibility studies, and other technical information about its products. (The more of this information that’s on a company’s website, the more brownie points they get from us.)
Past performance of the company (i.e., few or no serious recalls).
Use Our Canned Dog Food Search Tools
With your dog’s specific needs in mind, we recommend searching among the pet food companies on our list of “Approved Canned Foods” (available to WDJ subscribers only). We’d also like to recommend using the tool to search our list of more than 800 individual foods and add as many filters as you want to find the most appropriate candidates for your dog. Looking for a higher-protein, lower-fat food without chicken or peas? Add the filters and search!
And don’t forget: One-size-fits-all recommendations don’t work when it comes to diet. Feed each of your dogs what works best for him. It’s great when you have more than one dog and they can thrive on the same variety of food, but don’t take this for granted.
(Note: Affiliate links are offered for your convenience. Whole Dog Journal is reader-supported. If you purchase food through links on our site we may earn a commission. Whole Dog Journal does not accept money for its food and product reviews.)
Today, many of the products that are made in human-food production facilities (with human-grade ingredients) are packed in paperboard boxes such as “TetraPaks.” People who want to serve only the freshest food to small dogs can shop for products packed in foil pouches or small plastic tubs.
Here you’ll find a list of pet food companies that make the kind of foods that meet our canned dog food selection criteria. We’ve included ALL the information we gathered from each company on our approved foods list. Here’s the most exciting part about the table, however: It’s a searchable database that you can use to find appropriate foods for your dog!
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Research shows larger dogs may have more problems than smaller dogs if neutered/spayed too soon.
Credit: JF Creatives | Getty Images
When should you neuter/castrate your male dog? Should you wait till after a heat cycle to spay your female dog? These used to be questions with easy answers, back when most veterinarians advised the surgery after 6 months of age. Science has muddled that simple directive.
A 2020 study in Frontiers of Veterinary Science found the age at which we neuter our dogs—with neuter meaning “surgically sterilize” the dog so he or she cannot reproduce—may affect the dog’s lifetime health. This study cited large-dog joint health, the risk of developing cancer, and female urinary incontinence as possible problems from spaying or neutering too early in the dog’s life. That said, the researchers found it ultimately depends upon the breed of the dog: “Guidelines that avoid increasing the risks of a dog acquiring these joint disorders or cancers are laid out for neutering ages on a breed-by-breed and sex basis,” according to the researchers. In other words, there is no “one age fits all” when it comes to neutering or spaying.
An earlier study published in The Journal of the American Veterinary Association also found that the age of neutering or spaying may affect the dog’s joint health—again for large dogs—saying, “In general, large- and giant-breed dogs were more likely than other dogs to have HD (hip dysplasia), CCLD (cranial cruciate ligament deficiency), or both” due to early neutering. Some veterinarians advise waiting until 24 months of age for giant-breed dogs.
What’s this all about, really? Hormones. Whether your dog is male or female, the hormones testosterone and estrogen matter to your dog’s physical and, possibly, mental development. These hormones are made in the testicles or ovaries of your dog, so if you remove these organs, the hormone production stops.
For example, estrogen helps with muscle tone in the urethra, which is why some female dogs develop urinary incontinence. And testosterone can cause abnormal prostate overgrowth in an intact male dog and impact rectal function, possibly blocking the path of feces through the rectum and requiring emergency surgery. One good reason for a late spay, but a looming concern for a late neuter. And, of course, if you have a canine athlete, these hormones help develop muscle growth and, possibly, even drive in your dog.
When to Spay Your Female Dog
The decision on when to spay your female dog is not easy. Discuss with your veterinarian what you want to do with the dog and your ability to handle a heat cycle (male dogs will seek her out and she will want to “meet” them!). While vets don’t have crystal balls, they are familiar with the research on these issues and have a much wider base of experience than you probably do.
In general, if you have a small female dog (under 40 lbs. projected adult weight), you have more leeway in choosing when to spay because smaller dogs seem less affected by all these health concerns than larger dogs. If you want to avoid her having a heat cycle, many veterinarians will spay her at 6 months of age. Research, as of yet, shows no problem with this decision.
If you have a larger female dog, you need to weigh the developmental risks of an early spay—as shown by research—against dealing with a heat cycle. At about 1 year of age, most veterinarians will advise you that it’s acceptable to spay as your dog is fully grown at that age, making the lack of hormone production less likely to be a problem. That could be only one or two heat cycles to endure.
It’s important to know, however, that the risk of mammary tumors increases in unspayed female dogs. That’s because intact female dogs have fully developed mammary tissue. A dog spayed prior to sexual maturity (around 6 months old) is at a reduced risk of mammary cancer because the spay removes the ovaries, which produce the estrogen that is significant to the full development of the mammary glands, according to Cornell DogWatch.
The Veterinary Society of Surgical Oncology (VSSO) says mammary tumors in female dogs account for 42% of all diagnosed tumors, with a lifetime risk of 23% to 34%. “Compare that to women, who have a 12.4% lifetime risk according to Susan G. Komen, an American breast cancer organization,” says Cornell DogWatch.
“At a cellular level, mammary tumors in dogs and cats are very similar to human breast cancer tumors,” says Dr. Scott Coonrod, the Judy Wilpon Professor of Cancer Biology and director of the Baker Institute for Animal Health. “And they may occur in pets even more often than they do in humans.”
When to Neuter Your Male Dog
The decision on when to neuter your dog again may depend upon what you’re going to do with the dog and your ability to handle an intact dog. As with female dogs, smaller breeds are less affected by the study results, which show larger dogs have more problems. With a big dog, your veterinarian may advise you to wait till 12 to 24 months of age to neuter your dog and ensure skeletal growth is finished. However, if you are having any temperament/aggression issues with your male dog, early neutering may be wise. Testosterone is linked to aggression.
How Much Does It Cost to Spay or Neuter Your Dog?
Not surprisingly, the cost of a spay or neuter is a regional thing. Prices in metropolitan areas can surpass $500 for a spay and $250 for neutering (castrating). If you’re working through a rescue or animal shelter, not only will they require that the dog is spayed or neutered, but they will often have low-cost plans to help control the births of unwanted puppies.
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Dry food, homemade diets and recipes, dehydrated and raw options, canned food and more.
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In addition to being fun, Rally is a great way to build a stronger relationship with your dog. Credit: Courtesy of Jae Thomas
I’ve been teaching my Rough Collie, Dashi, tricks and obedience skills since she came home at 10 weeks old. She began learning agility foundations as a puppy, but true jumping and contact work shouldn’t be practiced with young dogs. While I waited for her to grow up a bit to compete in agility, I began training—and once she was old enough—trialing with her in AKC Rally.
Rally is an easy entry point into the world of obedience-based dog sports. Unlike traditional obedience, handlers can speak to their dogs even when not giving a cue and encourage them while competing. It’s an excellent sport for building your relationship with your dog and fostering teamwork, and many of the skills can be taught at home.
What is Rally for Dogs?
Rally signs, like the examples shown here, ask the dog-handler team to perform a specific skill. The number of signs depends on the level you are competing at. Credit: Jae Thomas
In Rally obedience, dog and handler teams navigate a course made up of 10 to 20 different signs, where each sign asks for a different skill to be performed. The signs range from basic exercises like sits and downs in the Novice level, to more complicated positioning and turns in the higher levels. There are 42 different signs in the Novice level of AKC Rally, and more signs are added on top of those 42 as you move up each level. By the time you reach the Master class, there are over 100 total signs that the course could contain.
In trials, teams are scored out of 100, where mistakes can cost you anywhere from one to 10 points off your total score. If you achieve a passing score (anything 70 points and above), you’ll receive a qualifying leg towards a title. There are a number of titling levels of AKC Rally: Novice, Intermediate (optional), Advanced, Excellent, Advanced Excellent, Master/Choice, and Rally Champion. These level names differ for different kennel clubs, like the United Kennel Club (UKC).
How to Get Your Dog Started in Rally
If your dog has baseline obedience skills like heeling and sitting and you’re comfortable training on your own, the AKC has images and videos of all levels of Rally signs that you can teach at home. Just watch the videos on the AKC Obedience and Rally YouTube channel and aim to replicate them at home. The foundational skills for the Rally Novice level are heeling with turns, sit, down, and front.
If you don’t want to teach the 42 Rally Novice signs on your own, or if your dog needs to learn a structured heel, look for a local Rally class to take. Many dog training clubs and private trainers offer Rally classes, and local all-breed kennel clubs may also offer drop-in classes where you can come learn with your dog. As a Rally instructor myself, I recommend taking at least a few classes with a trainer—especially if you haven’t practiced free shaping, luring, and clicker training before. Understanding these skills first makes it much easier to train your dog how to complete the signs.
Once you and your dog have learned the Rally Novice signs, look for Rally mock-trials or fun matches! Often held in conjunction with conformation fun matches, Rally matches can be a good way to practice Rally skills with your dog in a distracting, trial-like environment. The benefit of a fun match though, is that there’s no pressure to avoid mistakes, and you can often practice the laid-out course a few times while you’re in the ring.
How to Find and Enter Rally Events
To be eligible to enter AKC Rally trials, dogs need to be six months or older and have an AKC registration or Canine Partners number. Deaf dogs can participate, but blind dogs and females in season can’t.
If you feel ready to compete, the best way to find Rally trials is through AKC’s Event Search Tool. Just open the page, select “Companion Events,” then “Rally.” You can then filter the results by state, date range, and more. Once you hit “retrieve events,” you’ll get a number of results that match your selected criteria. Click on the link to the Premium page for more details like the venue address, the price of entries, and you’ll find instructions for how to enter the event. Though they can be held as stand-alone events,
Rally trials are typically held in conjunction with all breed and specialty dog shows, which means you’ll have to find the superintendent of the larger show in order to enter Rally. The superintendent will be listed in the premium, and you’ll then need to search for the event on the super’s website and follow the online instructions to enter.
Most Rally trials allow online entry and payment, but mail-in entries and payment may also be available. Note that AKC rally trials close for entry two weeks before the event, and same-day entries are not normally allowed.
If you’re looking for an event, are having trouble locating a class near you, have questions about Rally, or just need some help with specific skills, joining a Facebook group dedicated to Rally may also help you find the information you’re looking for.
UKC also offers rally events, though there are differences in signs, ring procedure rules, and scoring. UKC Rally Obedience events can be found through the kennel club’s All-Breed Sports Calendar tool.
How to Earn Rally Titles
To earn most Rally titles, dog-handler teams must get three qualifying scores of 70 points or higher at the level appropriate to the title being sought. Credit: Jae Thomas
Once you start competing, it’s easy to get hooked on completing titles. When a dog completes a title, not only do they get a fancy new ribbon—they also get title letters added to the end of their official, or registered name. Here are the AKC Rally titles, title abbreviations, requirements, and details.
Novice (RN): Teams need three qualifying runs scored 70 or higher from two different judges. This level is performed on-leash and courses are made up of 10-15 different signs.
Intermediate (RI): Intermediate is an optional class, so teams can choose to skip it and go straight to Advanced if they wish. Intermediate courses contain between 12 and 17 signs. This class is performed on leash and requires three 70+ scored runs from two different judges to earn the title.
Advanced (RA): Advanced is the first class performed off leash, and courses are made of 12-17 signs. Dogs need to have already completed the RN title and earn three qualifying scores of 70 or higher from a total of two judges.
Excellent (RE): Excellent is also performed off leash, and courses can contain between 15 and 20 different signs. Dogs must have the Advanced title, plus three qualifying runs scored 70 or higher from two different judges.
Rally Advanced Excellent (RAE): Advanced Excellent departs from the titling status quo, since dog and handler teams are required to qualify in both Advanced and Excellent in the same trial 10 separate times.
Master (RM): Master is performed off leash, and dogs must already have the RE title to begin working towards the RM. Teams will need to complete 10 qualifying runs of 70 or higher under two different judges to earn the RM title.
Rally Choice (CRC): Choice is an optional, off leash class at the Master level, but doesn’t require any signs that contain jumps. Teams who earn the typical three qualifying runs of 70 or higher can claim the title.
Rally Champion (RACH): A Rally championship is the most difficult and time-intensive Rally title. To earn one, dogs first need to have their Rally Master title. Next, dogs need 20 triple Q’s, which means they must qualify in Advanced, Excellent, and Master in the same trial, 20 separate times. Dogs also need to accumulate 300 RACH points from the Advanced, Excellent, and Master classes, with at least 150 of those points from the Master class. Points are earned from runs scored 91 points and up, where a perfect 100 will get you 10 RACH points.
Should I Try Rally with My Dog?
If you’re interested in learning basic obedience skills and trying out a new sport with your dog, Rally is a great option. Not only will you and your dog learn loose leash walking, position work, sit and down stays, and other obedience commands, but you’ll also strengthen your relationship. Even if you don’t want to compete, just trying out a Rally class can boost your dog’s confidence and help you and your pup work together as a team.
Once a dog leaves puppyhood behind, it can be difficult to tell exactly how old she might be. Credit: Chalabala | Getty Images
It can be challenging to tell how old a rescue dog is, especially if not much is known about her history. However, there are some strategies that help narrow down a dog’s approximate age.
How to Tell How Old My Dog Is
When it comes to estimating how old a dog is, puppies are the easiest to age, because their bodies change in predictable ways on a monthly and even weekly basis. Adolescent dogs, usually recognizable by their lanky, slightly awkward appearance, are also fairly easy to guess ages for.
Adult and senior dogs are more difficult to determine age, both because there are fewer physical changes at these life stages and because different breeds and individual dogs can age at drastically different rates. For example, the average 10-year-old Chihuahua is in her prime, while the average 10-year-old Great Dane is geriatric.
Overall, there are five categories you can use to estimate your dog’s age: teeth, eyes, body condition, coat, and activity level.
How to Tell a Dog’s Age by Teeth
Here is a general timeline that most dogs’ teeth follow:
Newborn puppies have no teeth.
Sharp deciduous teeth (baby teeth) erupt between 2 and 8 weeks of age.
Deciduous teeth start to fall out around 4 months old.
By 6 or 7 months, all adult teeth are fully erupted and pearly white.
18 months to 2 years of age, the teeth start to show signs of wear and mild staining.
Between 3 and 5 years, almost all dogs have some calculus buildup on the teeth.
Between 5 and 10 years, teeth become more worn down.
By 10 years of age, many dogs have significant calculus buildup and may show other signs of dental disease, including bad breath, gingivitis, and missing teeth.
Keep in mind that there are many things that can change how an individual dog’s teeth wear. Just like humans, some dogs are prone to building up plaque and calculus while others naturally retain healthy teeth (for example, Chihuahuas and Dachshunds are notorious for having nasty teeth even at a young age). Dental care such as feeding dental chews, brushing the teeth regularly with an enzymatic toothpaste, and periodic dental cleanings by a veterinarian will slow the progression of dental disease and give teeth a new lease on life.
Chronic chewers who like to gnaw on tennis balls, bones, rocks, or fences will wear their teeth down significantly faster than dogs who don’t do these things, and are also more likely to have broken and missing teeth.
How to Tell a Dog’s Age by Eyes
Very young puppies typically have a bluish cast to their irises which fades as they get older and their eyes turn to their adult color (usually a shade of brown, but sometimes true blue or other hues).
Young adult dogs will usually have clear, bright eyes and excellent vision both in bright light and in the dark.
Age-related changes to dogs’ eyes typically start around 7 years of age, but this can vary widely. Most dogs will develop changes in the lenses of the eyes which give the pupils a slightly hazy or cloudy appearance. This is called lenticular sclerosis, and will get more pronounced with age. Thankfully it does not significantly impact the dog’s vision.
Many senior dogs will start to show poorer vision at night and in poorly lit areas around 10-12 years old. This can be due to general aging changes in the eyes or due to a problem with the eyes.
While cataracts are most common in older dogs, they aren’t a great tool for determining how old a dog is since they can appear at any age. Juvenile cataracts are a hereditary disorder that causes puppies to develop cataracts. Most genetic cataracts show up later in life. Cataracts can also form after an injury of the eye or secondary to diabetes. Cataracts do impair vision, and can eventually cause complete blindness in one or both eyes. Small cataracts require a veterinarian or veterinary ophthalmologist to diagnose, but advanced cataracts will be clearly visible to the naked eye as white discs in the pupil.
How to Tell a Dog’s Age by Body Condition
Puppies under six months of age are typically very loosey-goosey and uncoordinated. If you look at an x-ray of these guys, there are huge gaps between their bones. These fill in over time as your puppy grows and produces more bone.
Adolescent dogs are more coordinated and have better stamina, but still typically have a lanky appearance. They are starting to develop muscles on the neck, chest, shoulders, and thighs, but mostly seem to grow longer and taller.
Growth plates can also help estimate how old a younger dog is. These typically close between 12 and 24 months of age depending on your dog’s breed(s) and size. Most medium-sized dogs will be fully grown at around 18 months of age, while toy breeds are closer to 12 months and giant breeds closer to 24 months. Your veterinarian can see on x-rays if your puppy’s growth plates have closed or if they are still open, indicating that she still has growing to do.
Adult dogs aged 2-8 years typically have good to excellent muscle tone and don’t change much physically unless ill or injured.
As a dog tips into being a senior between 8-12 years of age, she will gradually show muscle loss. This can become pronounced over time. The timing of these changes will depend on your dog’s breed, size, and how well her body was treated through life.
How to Tell a Dog’s Age by Coat
Puppies under 10 months of age usually have a soft, cottony puppy coat. Most breeds do a dramatic shed and coat change from 9-12 months where they start to grow in their adult coat (this is more pronounced in dogs with long or double coats).
Adolescents and young adults may have a rangier appearance, with their full adult coat coming in by 3 or 4 years of age. A healthy adult coat should be bright and vibrant, with texture varying by breed or mix.
Senior dogs often have a duller, more brittle coat.
Greying of the muzzle, head, and paws is another indication of age. However, some breeds, genetic lines, and even individual dogs will grey faster or slower than others. My dog who lived to almost 17 had barely any grey at all on her black face!
How to Tell a Dog’s Age by Activity Level
Puppies under about 8 months old typically play hard and then nap hard while adolescent dogs (7-24 months) are high energy, always wanting to play or do something new. They also can be very creative about entertaining themselves when bored.
The energy level of adult dogs will vary depending on your dog’s breed(s) and personality. In general, adult dogs are willing and able to engage in long walks or other activities with their people but can also settle for a rainy day on the couch. As a dog becomes a senior between 8 and 12 years of age, she will start to tire more easily and sleep more.
Genetic Age
If you are really curious about how old your rescue dog is, you can submit a genetic test!
Embark offers a Dog Age Test that uses a cheek swab to determine your dog’s approximate age and birthday. This test looks at the methylation of your dog’s DNA. Methylation is an epigenetic marker that changes predictably over time, allowing us to get a ballpark idea of when a dog was born.
There are also blood tests that measure the length of the telomeres on your dog’s chromosomes to determine approximate age. Telomeres are protective caps that get shorter as your dog ages.
None of these tests are exact, because individuals age at different rates based on their genetics, lifestyle, and life experiences. But they can be a fun way to get an idea of how old your dog is, especially if you are a science nerd!
Often associated with Cocker Spaniels, idiopathic aggression is rare and poorly understood. Credit: Anchy | Getty Images
Have you ever heard of rage syndrome in dogs? The term “Cocker Rage” has been used to describe the sudden onset of aggression without any apparent cause in the English Cocker Spaniel breed. Rage syndrome in dogs is also known as idiopathic aggression.
So, what is idiopathic aggression in dogs and can it be cured or successfully managed?
What is Idiopathic Aggression?
Idiopathic aggression in dogs is aggression that is explosive in nature, unprovoked, and appears suddenly, often without warning. According to Overall (1997)[i], dogs in the midst of an idiopathic aggression episode may foam at the moth and twitch. Seizures can cause similar symptoms and should be ruled out. Indeed, it can be difficult to identify the overlap between behavioral and neurological diagnoses. Idiopathic aggression appears to be most common in dogs aged 1 to 3 years of age.
Research by Wojewodzic and Sell-Kubiak (2024)[ii] which looked into aggressive behavior in the English Cocker Spaniel breed identified a number of risk factors. These included:
Males were more likely to show aggression compared to females
Aggression towards people and other animals increased with age
English Cocker Spaniels adopted from a shelter were more likely to display aggression towards people
Dogs that did not have a pedigree or Kennel Club certification were more likely to display aggressive behavior
A separate study by Engdahl et al (2023)[iii] also found that male English Cocker Spaniels were more likely to show aggression compared to females. Interestingly, they also found that aggression was higher in solid-colored dogs.
We still don’t know exactly what causes idiopathic aggression because it’s a very difficult condition for researchers to study as they are unable to induce it.
Symptoms of Idiopathic Aggression?
The main symptom of idiopathic aggression in dogs is intense and unpredictable outbursts of aggression which seemingly occur out of the blue. These episodes of aggression often appear like an overreaction to a relatively benign situation and can be dangerous, especially if there are children or other pets in the home.
Behavioral signs may include freezing, staring, dilated pupils, showing the whites of the eye (whale eye), and baring teeth which can rapidly escalate to biting and lunging. Owners often report that their dog appears “possessed” and even confused during and immediately following episodes of idiopathic aggression.
How is Idiopathic Aggression Diagnosed?
Fortunately, idiopathic aggression is a very uncommon condition. Most dog owners mistakenly believe their dog has idiopathic aggression when in fact, the aggressive episodes they have witnessed are a symptom of underlying illness, pain, fear, or anxiety or are related to resource guarding behavior.
Idiopathic aggression in dogs must be diagnosed by a veterinarian as it is a complex condition and can be difficult to diagnose. Your veterinarian will conduct a thorough physical and neurological examination and may run a blood analysis and other tests to inform their diagnosis. If your regular vet is unsure of how to diagnose rage syndrome in dogs, they may refer you to a specialist who is more experienced with the condition.
A thorough veterinary examination and health and behavioral history are vital to assist in distinguishing between idiopathic aggression and aggression resulting from illness, pain, fear, anxiety, or resource guarding.
How to Manage Idiopathic Aggression in Dogs
Unfortunately, there is no known cure for idiopathic aggression because the underlying causes remain poorly understood. If your dog has been diagnosed by a veterinarian as having idiopathic aggression, management of the condition is paramount to ensure your safety and your dog’s welfare. In many cases Idiopathic aggression can be successfully managed by taking the following steps:
Avoid using punishment, such as yelling or physical corrections, as punishment can escalate aggression and prolong the problem.
Identify any triggers for aggression and avoid them when possible to help prevent strengthening the neural pathways in the brain from previous responses.
Work with a qualified professional to learn how to effectively manage and use behavior modification strategies, such as desensitization and counterconditioning.
Your vet may prescribe medication for your dog to support management and address any fear or anxiety which may be contributing to the aggressive outbursts.
According to Dobson (2012)[iv], in extreme cases, management may not be possible or feasible to ensure the safety of the adults, children, and other pets in the home. For dogs displaying severe aggression over a long period of time and where the triggers are widespread, unavoidable, and relatively benign (e.g. normal, everyday events), the high degree of safety risks, difficulty and stress of permanently, consistently maintaining the required precautions and the impact on human and canine quality of life, together with a poor prognosis for improvement, lead to serious consideration of euthanasia as the most appropriate course of action.
The good news is that the vast majority of cases of aggression in dogs are behavioral rather than pathological in nature and caused by factors such as pain, illness, fear, anxiety, or resource guarding. Fortunately, these types of aggression can be successfully managed and modified under the guidance of a qualified, positive reinforcement focused trainer, certified applied animal behaviorist, or veterinary behaviorist to achieve significant improvement, maintain good welfare, and reduce the risk of injury to people.
Costumes can be fun but be sure to give your dog plenty of time to get used to wearing one. Credit: Irina Kashaeva | Getty Images
It’s the season for costumes, candy, and creepy décor. Halloween can be one of the most fun holidays for a pet, but also one of the most hazardous. From choosing safe costumes to takeaways on trick or treating, the following Halloween pet safety tips will help both you and your dog have a frightfully delightful holiday.
Costume Parties for Dogs
Some dogs—Pugs, we’re looking at you—think dressing up is a blast, while others prefer to prance around in their birthday suit, or maybe a bandana if they’re feeling formal. The trick is to know where your dog falls on the costume continuum. Here’s what to consider when choosing Halloween costumes for dogs:
Fit comes first. A happy Halloween dog needs to feel at ease in a costume. No matter how cute, avoid costumes that restrict vision, hearing, breathing, or movement. Skip costumes with buttons, bows, or fringe that can be chewed off and swallowed. Straps should be easily adjustable without catching on fur or dragging on the ground. A costume that glows in the dark or has reflective strips is a plus.
Condition costume comfort. Don’t buy a costume the day before Halloween and expect your dog to take to it immediately. Start practicing putting it on a week or two beforehand, rewarding T-Rex or Twyla with treats and praise as you go and gradually increasing the length of time it stays on. Try it on them several times beforehand until getting it on is second nature for both of you by the time a party or pet costume parade rolls around.
Watch for discomfort. Plenty of dogs love to strut their stuff in a costume, reveling in the attention it brings, but others aren’t fans, and it shows. Signs your dog isn’t having a good time include ears laid back, lowered head and tail, dilated pupils, and pawing to remove it. Don’t force the issue if your dog hates wearing a costume. That’s no fun for either of you. They’ll look just as cute in a pumpkin-themed bandana or even their own gorgeous fur coat.
Photo op. Pets don’t have to wear costumes for long periods for you to get some great shots for social. Trade some treats for a short photo session and then let them go back to wearing their own fur suits.
What About Your Own Costume?
Your dog may be weirded out if you suddenly appear as Beetlejuice or Wednesday Addams. Let them watch you put on and take off the costume a couple of times—give treats as you do so—and become used to seeing you walk around the house in your new guise, especially if it involves a mask. My dog Harper freaked out every time I put on a mask, even one of those half masks on a stick, so if your dog doesn’t like masks either, try offering favorite treats or toys while wearing one to help develop a pleasant association with it, avoid staring at your pet while wearing it, or don’t wear it in their presence.
Dogs and Spooky Décor
Halloween is a great opportunity to practice conditioning your dog to giant inflatable decorations—because they’ll show up again in November and December. Other elements of spooky season your dog should become accustomed to are strobe lights, jack-o-lanterns, hanging decorations, glow-in-the-dark skulls, and electronic voices that emanate from scary figures when people—or dogs—walk by.
Hand out a favorite treat, toss a ball, or offer a game of tug as you introduce your dog to the new items in the home or yard. When puppy Harper was wary of approaching a large stack of trash bags containing grass cuttings, I sat on them, talked to her calmly, and tossed treats until she was ready to approach on her own. You can do something similar with a large inflatable or hanging figure. Don’t startle your dog by unexpectedly inflating it or dropping it down from a tree.
Gradually introduce other decorative items and use the same techniques to accustom your dog to their presence. Most dogs will adjust quickly after initially startling at the new object, but if they don’t, be patient in conditioning them.
Halloween Dog Safety Tips
Sweets, trick or treating, Houdini escapes, and candle flames are just a few of the Halloween hazards dogs face. Here are some Halloween pet safety tips to keep in mind:
Keep your dog choco-lonely. Most of us know that chocolate can have adverse effects on dogs. Gorging on candy, chocolate or otherwise, isn’t good for them. To avoid a canine bellyache, vomiting, diarrhea, or worse, place all candy well out of reach, even if your dog is a good boy or girl who would never! Sweets can tempt anyone beyond all reason.
Dogs who do find candy often swallow it whole, wrappers and all. If you’re lucky, they’ll just poop out gold foil for a few days, but wrappers can serve as linear foreign bodies that may block or damage the intestinal tract, causing serious problems that require surgical intervention. Be aware of signs of obstruction which include:
Vomiting (abdominal heaving and production of partially digested food or other matter, often associated with obstruction of stomach or small intestine)
Regurgitation (food isn’t swallowed and rolls back out of the mouth—seen with esophageal obstruction)
Diarrhea
Lethargy (listless, doesn’t seem to feel well)
Appetite loss (especially in dogs who normally love to eat)
Read labels or ask about ingredients, even on foods that might seem harmless. Some candy, mints, gum, and peanut butter, along with sugar-free cookies, cakes, or other baked goods may contain a sugar substitute called xylitol (also seen on labels as birch sugar). It’s great for people who can’t have sugar, but deadly to dogs, causing a dangerous drop in blood glucose levels. Take dogs to the veterinarian or pet ER immediately if they eat anything containing xylitol.
Dogs may also try to snack on decorations such as fake eyeballs, cobwebs, glow sticks, and potpourri, to name just a few. If you have a dog whose mission in life is to taste-test everything they come across, place these items judiciously. All can pose a risk to your dog if ingested.
Having a party? Set out a bowl of pet-friendly treats for guests to give. Ask them to stick to those and not give your dog anything else.
Prevent escapes. After Independence Day, Halloween is the second most common time of year for pets to escape their homes. And that’s not surprising, given the number of times doors open and close for trick-or-treaters. Consider setting up a treat station in the yard so your dog doesn’t have a chance to slip out the door. You can also place a pet gate at the front door to prevent your dog from running out. Keep a bowl of small dog treats nearby, too, so you can reward your dog for good behavior when people are at the door.
Taking dogs trick-or-treating with the kids can be a fun twist on their regular walk, but it’s an opportunity for them to run off if they’re startled by a gaggle of ghosties and ghoulies. Be sure they have a good recall and are wearing a reflective vest or flashing collar or leash, as well as their normal identification tags and a microchip. Also consider going earlier in the evening, while there’s still some light.
Not all dogs are social animals or enjoy the sight of strange and wonderful beings—i.e., trick-or-treaters. If costumed revelers coming to the door are likely to make your dog howl in fear, set them up in an interior room away from the commotion with some treats and a favorite chew toy.
Fun Halloween Activities With Dogs
Besides putting them in costume, taking dogs trick-or-treating with you and the kids, or having them as costumed sidekicks at the door while you hand out candy, there are other fun ways to include dogs in the holiday. You can:
Visit a pumpkin patch.
Participate in a pet costume parade or contest if your dog has nice manners and enjoys attention.
Play treat hide and seek, placing treats around the house for your pet to find.
Share slices of apple spread with peanut butter, squeeze cheese, or plain yogurt.
Bob for treats.
Finally, if neither of you are fans of Halloween happenings, there’s nothing wrong with turning out the lights, snuggling on the sofa together, bowl of popcorn at hand, and streaming Hocus Pocus, Halloweentown, and Hotel Transylvania.
It’s only anecdotal evidence, but Otto lived to nearly 16 years old in a household with many foster dogs and puppies from a local shelter. Despite never receiving a parvo vaccine after the age of 7 months, and even being exposed to a litter of foster puppies that developed parvo, he never contracted the disease. Antibody titer tests confirmed that he retained protective antibodies for years and years after his puppy vaccinations.
A trainer I admire who has a large social media presence asked her followers about how they manage their adult dogs’ vaccinations against parvovirus: Do they vaccinate once a year, once every three years, never, or titer and then decide?
I’m pretty sure she specified parvovirus to distinguish this vaccination from the only legally mandated vaccine (rabies) and because parvo is a ubiquitous and serious disease, and its vaccination is considered a “core” vaccine—recommended for all dogs, irrespective of lifestyle, unless there is a specific medical reason not to vaccinate.
I’m also sure that she specified vaccines for adult dogs because while there are a variety of puppy vaccination schedules that are more appropriate for puppies in different situations—from a breeding farm similar to a quarantine facility, to a backyard-breeder, to a shelter or rescue—there shouldn’t be any debate whatsoever about the fact that all puppies should receive their core vaccines (distemper, adenovirus, and parvovirus, and perhaps also including parainfluenza). The guidelines published by the American Animal Hospital Association (AAHA), which are followed by most veterinarians, recommends that puppies who are younger than 16 weeks old at the time of their first vaccination receive three doses of a combination shot containing the core vaccines between the ages of 6 and 16 weeks, with doses spaced two to four weeks apart. If the puppy is older than 16 weeks old at the time of his first vaccination, AAHA recommends that two combination core vaccinations, given two to four weeks apart.
AAHA recommends that adult dogs who have received those core puppy shots be revaccinated a year after the last puppy vaccinations, and every three years thereafter. This is a somewhat reduced schedule from decades ago, when most veterinarians would recommend giving all the core vaccines to every adult dog annually (and a few old-timers still do!).
Most people go along with their veterinarians’ recommendations, and most veterinarians follow the AAHA guidelines—but some owners do depart from these guidelines, which is what my trainer friend was trying to investigate.
She has not yet tabulated the results from her posts, but she invited people to comment with details about their vaccination protocols for their dogs and all I can say is, WOW! There is a ton of variation in how people deal with vaccination decisions.
Many dog owners, including myself, are concerned about the potential for adverse health effects from overvaccinating, and we seek to reduce the number of unnecessary vaccinations our dogs receive. In my view, the only responsible way to skip recommended vaccinations is to get a vaccine titer test, which can tell you if the dog has circulating antibodies for the diseases in question. If the test results indicate that the dog does possess circulating antibodies for the diseases tested for, the odds are very good that a “booster” vaccination is not needed.
When I adopted Otto in 2008, he had received 4 combination vaccinations, starting at an estimated 4 to 5 months old, and was about 7 months old. He proved to have moderate seasonal allergies, which was one of the reasons I decided to use titer tests, which I had been reading about (and writing about), to monitor his antibody levels before I made any core-vaccination decisions. (Some veterinarians speculate that dogs who have allergies are more prone to developing adverse reactions to vaccinations.)
I had parvo and distemper antibody titer tests performed for Otto in 2010, 2011, 2012, 2014, 2015, 2017, and 2019, and every time, the results showed positive antibody titers, which is indicative of protection from those diseases—which I used as a justification to decline to vaccinate him for those core diseases. (He was never vaccinated for distemper and parvo after his youth in the shelter in 2008, and lived to nearly 16 years old.) He did receive the core rabies vaccinations that are required by law until his very last years (when I declined even those).
[Editor’s note: Many people have mentioned the high cost of using titer tests. I strongly recommend the Companion Animal Vaccines and Immuno-Diagnostic Service (CAVIDS) Laboratory at the University of Wisconsin, Madison, School of Veterinary Medicine. They charge just $50 for a distemper/parvo vaccine titer test. You do have to get your veterinarian to draw a blood sample (following the instructions on the CAVIDS Lab webpage) and either ship the sample yourself or ask your vet to ship it. Some vets will draw an extra blood sample during your dog’s regular health exam for a low fee; others ask more. You can mail (via Priority) or ship the sample directly the the lab, and the results will be sent to you and your veterinarian.]
I was fortunate in not having to ever board Otto—many boarding facilities refuse service unless a dog’s vaccines are current within three years—and I didn’t compete with him in any events where vaccines would have been required. However, every time we saw a new veterinarian, I would have to have a discussion with them about why I wasn’t giving him those core vaccines, and showing them all of his titer tests (or agreeing to a new test). Although this was somewhat costly, I felt like I was doing my part to educate his veterinarians about the value of antibody titer tests and why continually revaccinating healthy adult dogs is perhaps not necessary.
I didn’t participate in my trainer friend’s poll or leave a comment, though I will be interested to see the results. I am curious, though, if WDJ’s readers will mirror her followers’ results, or if they would vary. If you’re read this far, please comment!
How often do you vaccinate your adult dog for parvovirus? (Let’s not talk about puppies, rabies, or non-core vaccines in this discussion.)
Primary megaesophagus shows up in puppies. The Wire-Haired Fox Terrier (pictured) and Miniature Schnauzer breeds have a genetic marker for the disease.
Your dog stands up and quietly deposits his dinner from three hours ago on the rug. You panic—both for your dog and the rug!—but your dog seems fine otherwise. This type of throwing up is called “regurgitation.” It’s not vomiting.
When your dog vomits, he actively brings up food from his stomach. That means the food must pass through the gastroesophageal opening and go all the way up the esophagus. His sides move in and out, he makes the classic retching noises that can wake you up from a sound sleep. There is often bile mixed in the partially digested food.
With regurgitation, the food he ate has not passed into his stomach. For a variety of reasons, it is sitting in the esophagus, undigested. This type of throwing up has little warning before it comes up. You might hear a quiet burp as he lowers his head. There are no strenuous abdominal contractions.
Why Is My Dog Throwing Up Undigested Food?
Regurgitation is a classic sign of megaesophagus, a GI motility disorder. In this condition, the muscles and nerves of the esophagus are not normal, so the important motility required to move food along is absent. As food sits in the esophagus, the esophagus will stretch over time (hence, “mega” esophagus). Other causes include abnormalities of the vessels of the heart that block the progression of food and anything that blocks the opening of the esophagus into the stomach.
Some endocrine disorders like hypothyroidism are connected to regurgitation, as is myasthenia gravis, an autoimmune disease associated with muscle weakness. But not all dogs who gulp food voraciously are ill. If your dog throws up infrequently, you can chart the occasions to see if there is a trigger, such as eating too fast.
Puppies Throwing Up
Primary megaesophagus is a congenital problem noted in puppies when they switch over from nursing and liquid food to solid foods. You will notice failure to thrive and gain weight as well as regurgitation. A serious problem can develop from aspiration pneumonia as the affected dogs seem hardly aware that food is coming back up. Aspiration pneumonia is a life-threatening concern.
Megaesophagus has been shown to be of genetic origin in Wire Hair Fox Terriers and Miniature Schnauzers. Other breeds prone to this condition include German Shepherd Dogs, Great Danes, and Labrador Retrievers.
Diagnosis
Diagnosis depends on history and radiographs. If a plain X-ray is not definitive, a contrast study with barium may be recommended.
Treatment
Dogs with megaesophagus can be managed but are not cured.
You may hear of sildenafil (Viagra) being used as an off-label treatment for megaesophagus in dogs. A 2017 study published in The Veterinary Record showed sildenafil “could represent a novel therapeutic tool for the treatment” of idiopathic/congenital megaesophagus, but a 2022 study published in the American Journal of Veterinary Research, was less positive, concluding that: “There were no differences in esophageal clearance times or quality-of life-scores between sildenafil and placebo.”
Basically, treatment for megaesophagus in dogs requires your commitment. Any underlying conditions such as endocrine disorders need to be dealt with, but often the esophagus will not totally recover.
That means daily, lifelong care by you. You must be observant for the slightest sign of aspiration pneumonia as that is often the cause of death.
Some dogs will do fairly well with a certain texture of food, such as a slurry or multiple small “meatballs.” The diet must be high quality and high calorie, so you don’t need to feed large meals.
Most often these dogs need to be fed elevated and kept elevated for at least 15 minutes after eating. The simplest way to feed your dog is with a step stool, with him on his hind legs and his food bowl on a higher step.
Many families choose to go with a Bailey chair. These chairs keep your dog upright to eat and for the “holding time” postprandial (the immediate time after eating). You can purchase one or make your own via plans.
Dogs play rough, and things can escalate into a fight quickly. These two are having a good time, but the owners should be aware of signs that indicate a brewing fight and end the interaction immediately.
At a quick glance, dog play and dog fights appear similar. However, there are telltale signs and changes in body language that dog owners need to understand to distinguish between intense, but fun, play and actual aggression and fear-based reactions.
Dogs that are playing often exhibit loose, bouncy movements and relaxed facial expressions. Their ears might be perked up or floppy. Playing dogs may be vocal, but those vocalizations typically include excited barks, yips, or even playful growls. These sounds are often exaggerated and accompanied by other playful behaviors. Dog play is important for training and development. However, things can turn aggressive quickly, which is why dog owners need to remain vigilant.
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Are Dogs Playing or Fighting?
It’s important to note that even playful interactions can sometimes escalate into fights, especially if one or both dogs are feeling stressed, overexcited, or threatened. “While excited barking and other vocalizations are signs of play, if they are sustained, not welcomed too intense, they can also cause things to escalate, says Allie Bender, a dog behavior consultant and the co-author of “Canine Enrichment for the Real World.”
Sometimes other environmental triggers cause escalation (e.g., a person walking by, a car passing). “Another dog entering the environment can absolutely change the dynamics. Really any environmental change can cause changes in behavior. And then there are kiddos who don’t yet have self-regulation skills and escalate because they can’t calm themselves back down from playing well,” Bender says.
Wagging tails, especially when accompanied by other playful behaviors.
Playful growls or barks that often accompanied by a happy expression on the dog’s face.
Playful nipping is a common form of play, but it should be gentle.
Play bows, where they lower their front end while keeping their rear end raised. This is a clear signal of playful intent.
Taking turns being dominant or submissive. They may chase each other, wrestle, or engage in mock biting.
No sustained aggression or intent to harm. Playful interactions generally involve brief periods of aggression followed by playful behaviors and rest.
Signs Your Dog Is Aggressive (Or About To Be)
To get ahead of a fight, watch for signals that things are getting serious:
Tense muscles, raised hackles, and a stiff tail are often signs of aggression or fear.
Intense sustained growls or snarls and pinned ears are often a sign of aggression or submission.
Aggressive behavior during otherwise playful biting or nipping, especially if excessive or accompanied by other aggressive behaviors.
Growling or snarling is a common sign of aggression, especially when accompanied by other aggressive behaviors.
Baring teeth is another sign of aggression, and it is often accompanied by growling or snarling.
Lunging or biting is the most obvious sign of aggression, and it should always be taken seriously.
Stiff rigid bodies. Aggressive dogs often have a stiff or rigid body, and they may also have their ears pinned back or their tail tucked under their body.
If things do escalate, it’s important to quickly and safely break up the dog fight. How quickly depends on where the interactions are taking place and who’s involved.
“For me, what point to step in depends on the situation. For example, if two dogs who have lived together for years are playing and I know they have a history of appropriate communication and healthy play skills I may wait longer to step in if I see yellow flags,” Bender says.
How to Tell If Puppies Are Playing or Fighting
Puppies introduce a different dynamic. If you are dealing with young dogs who don’t have a relationship and are playing at a dog park, daycare, or a new play date, you may want act sooner. “In those situations, I may interrupt more frequently than is necessary, even before there are yellow flags. That way I’m encouraging them to take breaks and giving everyone a moment to regroup before choosing to engage in play again,” Benders says.
Remember, if you’re concerned about your dog’s behavior or interactions with other dogs, it’s always a good idea to consult with a veterinarian or animal behaviorist. They can provide personalized advice and help you address any issues you may be facing.
I’ve had a number of older owners book lessons with me lately—more than half a dozen individuals and couples in their 70s and even 80s, all wanting some training help with their new dogs or puppies.
