If your dog doesn’t want to eat, start by looking for an illness, then consider things like how many treats he’s consumed during the day.
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Why is my dog not eating is a question that I get regularly from clients. If a dog is eating treats but not his food, the first step is to check to see if he is sick. In cases where illness has already been ruled out, there are several behavioral reasons why your dog doesn’t want to eat anything but treats.
If your dog is eating treats but not food, the reason could be you! I have come across involved dog parents so dedicated to training that they are wearing a treat pouch 24/7 and reinforcing far more behaviors than necessary. In these cases, the dog has been grazing all day and is no longer interested in meals, no matter how tasty they may be. Obviously, the solution to this scenario is to stick with a scheduled training session for treat reinforcements versus an all-day thing.
Sudden Illnesses That Cause a Dog to Stop Eating
A variety of medical reasons can cause your dog to not want to eat. All would require a consultation with your dog’s veterinarian, in some cases, sooner rather than later. “Why isn’t my dog eating” can be a medical emergency if it’s a sudden change, even if the dog will still take treats, which are often more enticing than regular kibble to a dog with little appetite. Reasons for not eating that require veterinary care include:
Pain
Illness
Blockage
Bloat
Dental issues
New medication
Sometimes we need to be detectives to keep our dogs healthy and happy, just another skill we need to develop to be good dog parents.
Behavioral Reasons for Your Dog Not Eating
If your dog is eating treats but not food, the reason could be you! You may be feeding your dog so many treats he isn’t hungry at mealtimes. I have come across involved dog parents so dedicated to training that they are wearing a treat pouch 24/7 and reinforcing far more behaviors than necessary. In these cases, the dog has been grazing all day and is no longer interested in meals, no matter how tasty they may be. Obviously, the solution to this scenario is to stick with a scheduled training session for treat reinforcements versus an all-day thing.
Your Dog is Bored of His Food
At the top of the list is that the dog is bored with their food. Dogs need variety in meals, too. Your dog may eat the same food day in and day out at each meal and never complain but not all dogs want to exist this way without some sort of backlash. If your dog is refusing breakfast but eats dinner, I would suspect this cause. Your dog is eating to stay alive. I don’t think that anyone wants their dog to feel like that, right?
My suggestion to clients when this is the obvious issue, is to find three or four types of kibble (it’s always kibble that this scenario applies to) that fall in line with the kind that is already well tolerated by the dog, either protein wise or brand wise. If they can vary proteins and the dog both likes the food and digestively tolerates it well, that is even better.
Rotate meals. One thing for breakfast and another thing for dinner. Vary again the next day. Repeat. This will help prevent boredom with meals.
Your Dog is Getting Anxious at Mealtime
Another behavioral issue that can result in not eating meals is too much owner-created attention to eating meals. Basically, micromanaging meals creates anxiety on the part of the dog and results in not eating meals. Your dog won’t eat while you are anxiously waiting for him to eat. I did this with my heart dog, Merlin. It resulted in learning far more about dog nutrition and kibble than I ever anticipated, along with a future of either feeding a raw diet or home cooking for all dogs from him on. If you think that you have created a situation like this, the wonderful Applied Animal Behaviorist, Kathy Sdao has a webinar on this subject.
Other Behavioral Reasons for Your Dog Not Eating
Behavioral reasons that I hear “why is my dog not eating?” have also included:
Can your dog catch your cold? Knowing which diseases you and your dog are at risk of sharing can help keep the whole family—human and canine alike—happy and healthy. Credit: AndreyPopov | Getty Images
Can dogs get sick from humans? Can humans get sick from dogs? The answer to both questions is yes.
Certain bacteria, viruses, and parasites are zoonotic, meaning they can spread from animals to humans. Reverse zoonosis occurs when humans transmit germs to dogs.
“We’re all mammals, and there are certain diseases that can cross over in either direction, so we have to be a little concerned about those things,” says veterinarian Will Sander, an assistant professor of preventive medicine and public health at the University of Illinois College of Veterinary Medicine.
So, what organisms and critters can spread from humans to canines and vice versa? Let’s break down these crossover contagions.
Can Dogs Get Sick from Humans?
Though it’s relatively rare, humans can pass germs to dogs. “Many of us live very closely with our dogs, and we can share diseases that way,” Dr. Sander says.
Diseases that dogs can catch from humans include:
COVID-19
The virus that causes COVID-19 is one of the most recent and headline-grabbing examples of reverse zoonosis.
“We had somewhere between 200 and 300 cases reported where dogs got sick from people,” Dr. Sander says. “A very, very small number of those dogs died. Most just got some gastrointestinal and respiratory effects.”
Tuberculosis/TB
People can also transmit bacterial infections to dogs. Tuberculosis (TB) is a highly contagious respiratory illness. It can spread from infected people to canines through close contact with a dog or even through the air inside a home. (TB is rare in dogs, but dogs can also transmit it to people.)
MRSA
Methicillin-resistant Staphylococcus aureus (MRSA) is another bacteria that dogs can pick up from humans, especially if a pooch licks the skin of an infected person.
“Dogs don’t actually have Staphylococcus aureus that much on their skin,” Dr. Sander says. “It’s more of a human bacterium, and so when we see things like MRSA, it’s usually coming from their family, and that somebody in that family has had an MRSA infection.”
E.coli
E.coli bacteria can be passed between two and four-legged family members. Dr. Sander says there have been cases where E. coli was the culprit that caused urinary tract infections, which spread throughout entire households, including the dog.
“It could happen when somebody with a urinary tract infection does not wash their hands well, or the dog licks the toilet bowl and gets infected,” Dr. Sander says.
Can Humans Get Sick from Dogs
While many infections in dogs do not pose a risk of spreading to people, there are several viruses, bacteria, and parasites that dogs can transmit to humans, both directly and indirectly.
Stopping germs from spreading is something veterinarian Stephanie Janeczko, vice president of shelter medicine services for the ASPCA, considers a top priority.
“Infectious diseases are certainly an ongoing concern, particularly in settings where dogs have close contact with many other dogs,” Dr. Janeczko says. “They are something that we absolutely spend a lot of time working to prevent in shelter settings.”
Infections that humans can get from dogs include:
E.coli, Salmonella, and Campylobacter
Dogs can also spread E. coli and other bacteria, like Salmonella and Campylobacter, to humans through their feces. But Dr. Janeczko and other veterinarians also warn about the potential indirect spread of bacteria to humans from certain dog foods.
“We know that people exposed to dogs who are fed raw diets are at increased risk of exposure,” Dr. Janeczko says. “It might be because you were handling that food that was contaminated, then you became exposed, too.”
Another potentially dangerous organism that veterinarians urge should be on more people’s radar is Leptospira bacteria, which causes leptospirosis, also known as lepto.
For pet owners asking their veterinarians, “Is leptospirosis zoonotic?”, the answer is: It’s one of the most common and dangerous zoonotic diseases in the world.
“We’re actually seeing more leptospirosis in dogs over the last couple of decades,” Dr. Sander says.
Leptospira bacteria are spread through the urine of infected wild, farm, and domestic animals. Dogs can contract it if they come into contact with contaminated soil, other infected animals, or their remains. Lepto can also spread in floodwaters, rivers, lakes, and ponds.
Without treatment, leptospirosis can make animals and people very ill, even causing death.
Rabies
And while we’re talking worst-case scenarios, canines (and other animals) can spread the deadly rabies virus to humans.
Dogs typically contract rabies after being bitten by an infected wild animal or a domestic animal (such as a dog or cat) that has contracted the disease. The virus is transmitted through saliva, so if a rabid dog bites a human or licks a person’s open wound, they can become infected.
“It’s really serious,” Dr. Sander says. “It’s one of those few diseases we know of that’s usually 100% fatal. It’s one of those you don’t want to play around with.”
Common Dog Diseases That Don’t Spread to Humans
While serious viruses like parvo and distemper can easily spread between dogs, they are not contagious to people.
Is Influenza Zoonotic?
Can people give their dogs the flu? Can dogs give people influenza?
The short answer is “sometimes.” There are various strains of influenza, and some are zoonotic. Also, flu viruses are constantly changing and can mutate in ways that affect their ability to spread between species.
“The way the virus is set up, it’s prone to having a lot of mutations,” Dr. Sander says. “When those mutations happen, we see shifts. Things are always shifting and changing.”
It’s always a good idea to consult the latest research or seek medical advice if you have questions, but here is the current information on several strains of influenza as of this writing:
Dog Flu/Canine Influenza
Although the dog flu, or canine influenza, is highly contagious among dogs, there have been no reported cases of humans contracting the virus that causes the disease.
Avian Influenza/Bird Flu
Avian influenza, which has jumped from birds to cows to cats (cats are very susceptible) and to humans, is a hot topic these days. Right now, the risk of dogs contracting bird flu remains low. “We have been fortunate that dogs have not been impacted,” Dr. Sander says.
Of course, if a dog eats or interacts with infected animals, they run a greater risk of contracting the disease. The key is to limit potential exposure to the virus.
Human Flu (Influenza A and B)
While the flu can make most people absolutely miserable and spread easily among humans, it’s unlikely dogs will contract it.
“There have been a few cases, but it’s pretty uncommon that the flu has been able to spread from people to dogs,” Dr. Sander says.
Preventing the Spread of Zoonotic Disease
Several common-sense precautions can help prevent the spread of infections, which can help save the lives of both people and dogs.
Vaccinations
Always ensure dogs are up to date on their vaccinations.
“Vaccines are a cornerstone of the way that we seek to limit transmission for several infectious diseases, some of which are zoonotic. This includes rabies and leptospirosis,” Dr. Janeczko says.
Pet owners should consult with their veterinarian to determine the best protocol for their dog, which should include core vaccines for parvovirus, distemper, rabies, and even leptospirosis.
“There’s been a good vaccine in place for quite a while for leptospirosis for dogs,” Dr. Sander says. “It’s something that the American Veterinary Medical Association and other big national animal associations have endorsed in the last two years as being considered a core vaccine for dogs.”
Flea, Tick, and Parasite Prevention
Fleas, ticks, and intestinal parasites are among the grossest, most disease-spreading critters that canines can bring home to their humans, which can, directly and indirectly, cause health issues for both species. Using broad-spectrum dewormers can help minimize the risk of intestinal parasitic infections dogs can pick up and pass to humans.
“Most people would be giving these as part of their monthly heartworm preventive; most have a dewormer in them that will provide protection against parasites like roundworms or hookworms,” Dr. Janeczko says.
Fleas may harbor germs like Bartonella, typhus, and the plague.
Topical, chewable, and spray-on preventatives help stop these biting bugs from infecting dogs and people.
Hand Hygiene
One of the easiest ways people can prevent the spread of germs is to wash their hands after having contact with their dog, their dog’s food and water bowls, and after picking up their pooch’s poop.
Pet parents should also follow safe food handling protocols when feeding their dogs to help reduce the risk of bacterial transmission.
“Hand hygiene goes a really long way in helping to mitigate infectious disease risk for zoonotic diseases,” Dr. Janeczko says. “That’s an important aspect of it.”
Safeguards During Sickness
Hand hygiene is also crucial in preventing the spread of diseases, especially when a pet or person is sick. People should wash their hands immediately after any direct contact with a dog or human who is ill or after touching anything they’ve touched. It’s essential to race for soap and water after cleaning up bodily fluids, such as urine, diarrhea, or vomit.
Don’t allow dogs to snuggle, kiss, lick people, or come in close contact with other animals or humans who are sick.
Wearing a mask and avoiding coughing or sneezing around dogs if someone in the household has a respiratory illness can help prevent dogs from contracting it.
If a dog or human appears to be sick, seek medical attention, and be sure to mention any other illnesses in the household, as well as the presence of pets.
“A lot of times physicians or nurse practitioners don’t always ask that question, and it opens up other possibilities for them to think about what could be causing you to be sick, too,” Dr. Sander says. “I always tell people to advocate for themselves and let doctors know what’s going on.”
The bottom line is that while you should be aware of the germs and parasites in your environment, they should not prevent you and your dog from having a loving relationship.
“The risk is not huge, but take common-sense precautions,” Dr. Sander says. “Good hygiene and preventive measures are really what’s needed, and just not letting our guard down.”
If your senior dog is becoming unusually restless at night, it may be time to discuss the possibility of cognitive dysfunction with your veterinarian.
Credit: Svetlana Repnitskaya | Getty Images
Selegiline Worked for Dog With Cognitive Dysfunction
Kate’s Belgian Tervuren, Queezle, was 12 years old when she started on selegiline for canine cognitive dysfunction. Queezle had started nocturnal pacing and fussing, keeping Kate and her husband up at night.
“Within a week of starting on selegiline, Queezle was sleeping through the night and much brighter and happier. We hadn’t realized just how grumpy she had gotten until we had the old Queezle back,” says Kate. Queezle earned her Champion Tracker title at age 13 and went on to live to age 16.
How to Use Selegiline for Dogs
Selegiline is usually dispensed as a tablet or capsule, although you may be able to get a transdermal patch that is placed on the inside of an ear, for example. Some owners have had liquid versions compounded.
Note: MAOI drugs act on the neurotransmitter called dopamine in the brain. Among other functions, dopamine helps with memory. Selegiline helps to maintain dopamine levels in the brain. Dopamine also helps to regulate levels of adrenocorticotropic hormone (ACTH). Selegiline can help dogs with Cushing’s disease via this metabolic pathway.
Side Effects of Selegiline
Initial side effects when using selegiline in dogs may include restlessness and some confusion, which of course, mimic what you want to treat. Most dogs adjust, but it may take a few weeks to truly evaluate if selegiline is working for your dog.
Some dogs may show gastrointestinal upset ranging from vomiting and diarrhea to a decrease in appetite. Rarely, some dogs will show aggression or a loss of hearing.
Will Selegiline Work for My Dog?
Unfortunately, some dogs don’t show much of a response to selegiline. It’s important to discuss with your veterinarian how long the initial trial should be done to see if selegiline works for your dog. While some dogs show a response to the medication fairly quickly, some will take a few weeks. And some dogs won’t show any real change.
A dog’s primary means of cooling himself is through panting. When it comes to keeping a dog cool in summer, our goal is to make this process more efficient.
When a dog pants, air flows over the tongue and throat area and helps cool the blood sent to the tongue by the heart. That cooler blood then circulates through the rest of the body back to the heart, to start the process over.
The harder a dog’s working to stay cool, the bigger his tongue becomes in an effort to maximize that air circulation. That’s why a wide, red tongue indicates a dog is working hard at keeping his body cool.
However, as the temperature and humidity rise, the inefficiency of this system becomes apparent. The warmer it is outside, the warmer the air is that the dog takes into his body. When ambient temperatures become close to a dog’s normal body temperature, the system begins to fail.
How Hot is Too Hot for a Dog?
While most dogs begin getting warm around the 80°F mark (depending on humidity), the out-of-shape dog may be stressed at much lower temperatures. Clearly, as the outside air temperature rises and gets closer to the dog’s body temperature, the effectiveness of panting decreases. A dog in warm weather needs your attention to avoid potentially deadly heat stroke.
To help avoid this, consider your dog’s condition. Keeping your dog well groomed, physically fit, and at his optimal weight will help him avoid suffering from heat stress. Just as in humans, too much fat and not enough exercise result in a decreased level of heat resistance. And, the more he pants, the more water he’ll need to consume – the cooler, the better.
How To Avoid Heat Stress in Dogs
But even fit dogs may need you to enforce limits during hot weather. “I try to acclimate them to exercising in warm weather so they can handle it at a trial, but if it’s extremely hot out, we will just stay home in our air-conditioned house!” says Linda Aloi, owner of K9 Capers Dog School in Baldwinsville, New York.
Some active dogs have been known to exercise to excess, causing major physical heat-related damage to themselves and possibly death. If you are playing fetch and your dog is barking at you to “Throw the ball again! Throw the ball again!” – but you notice his speed has decreased when running after the ball and returning to you – he’s probably had enough.
– Some of the most common causes of heat stress are:
– Being muzzled in a warm environment
– Leaving the dog in a car during warm weather (even in the shade or with windows cracked open); or leaving a dog in a hot room or garage with insufficient air flow
– Excessive exercise, or exercise in extreme temperatures
– Travel over hot pavement/concrete surfaces
– Lack of shade and/or fresh water
Should You Shave a Dog in Summer?
Your dog’s coat is designed to protect him from weather extremes. Regular grooming is a necessity, especially for dogs with a thick undercoat, like Shetland Sheepdogs, Pomeranians, and Labradors. That hair needs to be fluffy to do its insulation job, so if it’s matted or dirty, get out the grooming equipment. Dogs who appear to have thick tufts of uneven hair throughout their coat definitely need the old undercoat brushed out. Single-coated dogs – think Papillons, Poodles, and Weimaraners – can actually be at a disadvantage. They may need more protection against sunburn and heat because they lack that protective undercoat.
Whatever you do, avoid the myth about shaving your dog’s coat to make him cooler. “Never shave down a double-coated breed,” says Mary Jo Johnson, an agility instructor Farmington, New York, who competes with her Shetland Sheepdogs. “It may seem counterintuitive, but that undercoat is a good thing.”
There are exceptions to the no-shave rule, of course. Hot spots and other dermatological issues may require spot shaving for treatment. Some dogs may need spots shaved for breed standards or cleanliness. Also, strategic shaving in specific areas (as opposed to shaving the whole dog) can help with the cooling process, especially in canine athletes. “I actually will clip the hair in the summer in the groin area, so my dogs can lie down in the baby pool and the water can reach that skin,” Johnson says, “but only the groin area.”
How To Keep Your Dog Cool in Summer
At home, many dogs enjoy playing or lying down in a hard plastic kiddie pool containing a few inches of fresh, cool water. This is a much easier way to wet down your dog to cool him off than a hose.
“When I wet down my dog in a pool, I wet the belly, groin area, and under the ‘armpits’ of the front legs,” says Diane Eggleston, owner of Awesome Abilities Dog Training School in Skaneateles, New York. “You should not wet their backs because it can actually make them hotter,” as it can trap the heat closer to the skin.
A simple spritz with a sprayer might do the trick for many dogs. If Eggleston is away from home, she carries a sprayer with a mix of water and a little coat conditioner to help cool her dogs. “I use the type of sprayer used to spray weeds,” she says. “I use it to the wet the belly areas, like I do in the pool.” Of course, this sprayer should be designated and labeled for dog use only.
Make sure your dog always has fresh, cool water for your dog. On especially hot days, toss a few ice cubes in the water. You can also make an inexpensive treat by mixing water with some broth, freezing it in ice trays, and giving the cubes to him in a bowl. Don’t add these to his water, however; your dog needs constant access to plain water.
If you’re going for a walk or hike in hot weather, always carry along water and a bowl for your dog.
Find Your Dog a Shady Spot for Outdoor Events
If your dog is going to be outside with you for an extended period – say, at your daughter’s soccer match – he’ll need shade, especially if he has a dark coat. A pop-up tent or umbrella can provide enough instant shade to really help.
People who attend outdoor dog shows or canine athletic events with their dogs almost always bring shade tents, plus sun shields that can be draped over a dog’s wire or soft-sided crate, to provide extra shade without impairing air flow.
Clean Run, the agility catalog and store, offers a great product called the Cool Puppy Shade Cloth Panel, made of a knitted, reflective aluminized fabric. Draped over a wire crate or exercise pen, it reflects the sun’s rays but doesn’t stop air flow. Clean Run estimates the result is a spot that is cooler by as much as 14°F and we would agree. The panels are available in a variety of sizes, from $45 for a 7′ by 6′ panel, up to a 14′ x 10′ panel for $108.
45 for a 7′ by 6′ panel, up to a 14′ x 10′ panel for $108.
Fans and Dog Cooling Mats
Fans get a big “two paws up” from most dogs. Portable fans, especially those designed for camping, run off of batteries. Most dogs will seek out the cool breeze and lie down right in front of the fans to keep cool. “At agility trials, my dogs are kept cool with a shade tent and fans. I also have gel cool mats for them to lie on,” Johnson says. These fans are available at most major hardware and discount department stores, like Walmart.
Commercial cooling mats or beds are based on a dog’s natural instinct to dig dirt holes during the summer; they give your dog a cool resting spot. You can also use a wet beach towel on the floor or ground. Frequently refreshed, clean and placed out of the sun, a wet towel can give your dog a cool spot to lie down, even on the kitchen floor. (Of course, the humans in the household will need to be careful not to step on it and slip!)
Many commercial cooling beds are filled with a gel designed to absorb the dog’s body heat. Some beds are filled with water that circulates heat away from the dog.
You can make your own ice-pack bed, too. When I attend a summer agility trial, I pack an equine leg bandage that’s been soaked in water and then frozen. It’s the perfect size for my Papillons to chill out on. My sister’s 80-pound Labrador has a pocketed blanket that she fills with reusable ice packs. Her dog pulls to get into the crate when he sees her arranging it for him. We use ice packs from Ice Horse, which stay cool for about two hours. They’re non-toxic and flexible, making a comfortable “ice bed.” We’ve found that with care, they can last for years. But they’re not cheap; the cost ranges from two for $17 to 12 for $95. They are available from icehorse.net (800-786-6633).
The Aspen Pet Gel Cooling Pad is a terrific alternative, as it is comfortable, self-cooling, and effective. In fact, in the cool early-morning hours at a trial, I watched my dog move the pad out of his way in his crate. Later that afternoon, he had pulled it back in place and lay down on it! This bed was 12″ by 16″ and portable, as it folds in half; it also comes in 16″ by 20″. The only complaint we heard was that large-dog owners want a much larger size. Both sizes usually retail for under $25. (This product is no longer available; here is a similar though larger and more expensive alternative.)
The K&H Cooling Bed III is filled with water and works on the concept that the water will become the same temperature as the air, which is usually lower than the dog’s normal temperature. It absorbs the heat, which circulates away from the dog. Most dogs enjoy the feel of the water. “I use water-filled cooling beds in my dogs’ crates in hot weather,” Eggleston says. “I slip them into a cotton pillow case.”
The Cooling Bed III is a great product for home use, but we’ve found it can be cumbersome if you’re away from home. Filled with water, it’s very difficult to carry. If you plan to fill it at a show or sporting event, you will need several gallons of water (depending on the bed size). These beds are available in large sizes, but they cost a fair penny: the 17″ by 24″ bed costs $70; the 32″ x 44″ costs $130. They do come with a two-year warranty.
Dog Cooling Vests and Other Dog Clothes
You can find all types of dog clothing purportedly designed to keep your dog cooler, but be aware that anything you’re adding to your dog’s body has the potential to trap heat, too. Think about yourself. If it’s terribly hot out, do you want to add clothing?
That said, most coats for heat defense have some type of sun reflective element to them, and many are designed to be wet down. The caveat with wetting a coat, however, is that once it warms up to the dog’s body temperature or bakes in the sun, it ceases to be cooling to the dog. If you use these coats, keep an eye on its temperature and rewet it if it’s warmed.
We’re not very enthusiastic about coats or vests that have gel inserts or incorporate water into the design; they often trap heat against your dog. Also, many tend to run small, are too rigid, or too heavy to be comfortable for your dog. Find out what the return policy is before you purchase this type of coat for your dog.
It’s also wise to consider your dog’s breed and coat when choosing a coat. “I don’t use wet coats, since my dogs have a double coat and it would just trap the heat,” Aloi says.
A popular lightweight choice is the K9 Kooling Coat. Manufactured to standards designed to withstand stresses from a horse, these coats are made of bright white polyester mesh, which is cool, lightweight, and blocks UVA and UVB rays.
The Kooling Coat can be wetted before you put it on your dog (we dunk them in ice water when it’s really hot) or even frozen overnight (you’ll have to let it thaw a little before putting it on the dog, but it works) to help keep your dog cool. Although the manufacturer says you can spritz the coat once it dries out, it works best to simply totally re-wet it. While some dogs can’t wait to have their Kooling Coat on, we’ve seen others sort of cringe at the idea of wearing a wet coat all day. When dry, most dogs don’t even notice they’re wearing them, and you still get the reflective properties.
Though they resemble some sort of tinfoil costume, coats that are made of loosely woven aluminized fabric, similar to the material used in the sun shades we discussed above, are terrific for minimizing the sun’s direct impact while allowing maximum airflow. This is the kind of coat Aloi uses on her dogs. “I have the woven aluminum foil-type coats to reflect the sun, and these work well.”
The K-9 Cooler is a well-made coat that can be worn wet or dry. It’s lightweight, durable, and appears comfortable for the dog. The price ranges from $23 to $54, depending on size.
The Chilly Buddy coat has a similar reflective outer surface, but includes a mesh cotton underside that may be kinder to the dog’s coat. You can wet the lining to help with cooling, and it will hold the water longer than a coat without a lining. Perhaps best of all, the reflective outer layer means the wet inner layer will stay cooler longer as it’s protected from the beating sun. However, we’d like to see a more tight-fitting surcingle to help keep its place on the dog. Cost is $45 to $70.
Best Ways To Keep a Dog Cool in Hot Weather
Your No. 1 weapon against the heat is water – lots of cold, clean water – and lots of shade. Ice cubes are a fun treat that many dogs enjoy.
If your dog is forced to sit in a warm environment, he needs shade, a steady breeze from a fan, and lots of water. A cooling bed – as simple as that wet towel – is often appreciated.
For dogs who are going to spend a lot of time in the sun, we like the reflective coats, especially the Chilly Buddy bed. Its inner lining is actually a brilliant design, combining the best of both types of coats.
When using clothing, be sure you continually monitor the temperature of the coat, so your dog doesn’t become too warm. But be sure you’re not overdoing the cooling process either; locking him in a shaded crate, wearing a wet blanket, on a cold bed, with a fan constantly blowing directly on him, may result in a chilled dog even on a warm day. Your dog is your best indicator of whether he needs more – or less – help to stay a truly cool dog.
A novel protein diet may resolve a chronic itch that cannot be cured by traditional medications. Credit: Thiradech | Getty Images
A novel protein is often recommended when allergies or food sensitivities are believed to be causing persistent digestive upset, chronic ear infections, or ongoing skin issues like itchiness, redness, and hot spots. When traditional diagnostic methods or treatments fail to resolve these symptoms, veterinarians often recommend trying a novel protein diet or a dog elimination diet trial. These dietary approaches aim to uncover the triggers of food sensitives and offer relief through nutritional management. The result is often a significant improvement in your dog’s quality of life.
Finding a Novel Protein for Your Dog
A novel protein diet refers to foods that contain a protein source that your dog has never consumed before. The rationale behind using an unfamiliar protein is to reduce the likelihood of triggering an immune response, as allergic reactions occur when the body recognizes a benign substance as foreign or harmful.
Common protein sources such as chicken, beef, lamb, and turkey are frequent culprits for food allergies, simply because they appear so frequently in commercial dog food. By switching to a novel protein, such as rabbit, venison, duck, kangaroo, alligator or ostrich, you reduce the chance of including the ingredient responsible for the allergic response.
What Is an Elimination Diet?
Elimination diets are the gold standard for identifying food allergies or sensitivities in dogs. These diets consist of a limited number of ingredients, ideally with a single novel protein source and a single novel carbohydrate source, given exclusively to the dog over a period of eight to twelve weeks. During this time, no other foods, treats, supplements, or table scraps should be given.
The idea is to allow the dog’s immune system and gut to settle and observe whether symptoms improve or resolve completely. If improvement is observed, then individual ingredients from the previous diet can be reintroduced one at a time to try to determine which ingredient(s) trigger a reaction. This reintroduction process must be done cautiously and methodically to ensure that each ingredient’s effect is properly assessed.
Good Choices for a Dog’s Novel Protein Diet
Several reputable pet food brands offer novel protein formulas:
Zignature is known for its limited ingredient diets and features novel proteins such as kangaroo, catfish, and venison.
Natural Balance also produces a variety of limited ingredient and novel protein diets including duck, bison, and venison formulas.
Merrick and Instinct both offer raw-coated and grain-free recipes that include exotic proteins like rabbit, lamb, and duck.
While the availability of novel protein foods has grown in recent years due to increased awareness of canine food allergies, not all products are created equal. Some may include secondary or tertiary animal proteins that will be featured farther down in the ingredient list and can compromise the integrity of a novel protein diet. Because of this, it is crucial to carefully read labels and, whenever possible, opt for diets that are explicitly labeled as limited ingredient and contain only one clearly identified protein source.
Novel protein diets and elimination trials are invaluable tools for identifying and managing food allergies and sensitivities in dogs. By selecting less common protein sources and strictly adhering to a limited diet, pet owners can determine the root cause of their dog’s discomfort and chart a path forward that leads to long-term health and relief from symptoms. With guidance from a veterinarian, many dogs can thrive on novel protein diets and live happy, comfortable lives free from the discomfort from undiagnosed food sensitivities.
Hemp appears to be helpful for a number of canine conditions. However, although studies are becoming more common, there is still a lot that remains unknown about what hemp oils and other hemp-derived products can do for dogs. Credit: Vanessa Nunes | Getty Images
Hemp products for dogs are bestsellers, with sales approaching $1 billion per year. Although they have been shown to help reduce physical pain and treat anxiety in dogs and humans, hemp products are controversial as well as confusing.
The key to understanding this booming market lies in distinguishing hemp from marijuana and recognizing the differences between hemp seed oil and CBD oil. From nutritional supplements to calming treats and topical sprays, hemp-derived products vary widely in quality, composition, and effectiveness. As the science and regulation of these products continue to evolve, pet owners must navigate a complex landscape of claims and labeling to find safe, reliable options for their dogs.
Hemp vs. Marijuana
Marijuana is a Schedule 1 controlled substance under the Controlled Substances Act, making its sale and use illegal nationwide, but a confusing network of state laws legalize marijuana for medicinal or recreational purposes.
Hemp and marijuana come from the same plant, Cannabis sativa, but they have different legal definitions depending on how much tetrahydrocannabinol (THC)— the psychoactive ingredient in marijuana—they contain. In in the U.S., the federal definition of marijuana is a concentration of THC above 0.3%. Ingesting products containing significant amounts of THC can be harmful to dogs.
Products containing less than 0.3% THC are considered safe for human and animal consumption, though state regulations vary. The most restrictive state laws are seldom enforced, so low-THC products for human and animal use are sold nationwide.
Hemp, which has little or no THC, has been used for centuries to produce oil used in ink, paint, varnish, lamp oil, and cooking as well as fiber for rope and fabrics. Hemp oil is cold-pressed or chemically extracted from the hemp plant.
What Are Cannabinoids and How Do They Affect Dogs?
Cannabinoids are naturally occurring chemicals in hemp that interact with receptors in human and animal bodies to regulate mood, memory, appetite, and pain, affecting the central nervous and immune systems. There are over 100 cannabinoids in hemp, including CBD (cannabidiol, which is the most widely used), CBC (cannabichromene), CBDA (cannabidiolic acid), and CBG (cannabigerol). Alone and in combinations, these cannabinoids have been shown to reduce pain, stress, and anxiety in dogs as well as humans.
Is Hemp Seed Oil the Same as CBD Oil?
While both hemp seed oil and CBD oil may be referred to broadly as “hemp oil,” they are different products. CBD oil is made from the stems, leaves, and flowers of the hemp plant. Hemp seed oil is pressed or extracted from the seeds of hemp plants. It does not contain CBD.
Benefits of Hemp Seed Oil for Dogs
Hemp seed oil’s health benefits for dogs come from its ratio of omega-6 to omega-3 fatty acids and its ability to improve skin, reduce blood pressure, promote heart health, and reduce painful inflammation.
Products labeled as hemp seed oil for dogs and other pets seldom contain the oil by itself. Instead, they are usually combinations of hemp seed oil and calming herbs like chamomile, calming supplements like melatonin, nutritional supplements like vitamins, or other oils such as krill, salmon, or flaxseed.
For example, Good Growlies Calming Hemp Treats contain hemp seed powder, hemp seed oil, melatonin, valerian root, chamomile, passion flower, and L-tryptophan, all of which have proven calming effects. Natural Dog Company’s Calming Oil contains similar ingredients. NaturVet Hemp Advanced Joint Health Chews combine hemp seed powder and hemp seed oil with collagen, chondroitin sulfate, green lipped mussels, yucca, and other anti-inflammatory ingredients. Petkin HEMP Itch Spray treats hot spots and itchy skin with THC-free hemp oil, lavender extract, menthol, organic oat extract, aloe, and vitamin E.
CBD for Dogs
While research into the effects (and effectiveness) of CBD on dogs is becoming more common, completed studies and clinical trials are still hard to come by. CBD is thought to be useful for controlling pain, nausea, anxiety, depression, and seizure activity. It has also been shown to have anti-inflammatory properties.
There are no guarantees about how CBD will act in an individual body because every dog’s response is unique. CBD appears to be safe at many times the recommended dosage for brief periods and at recommended doses for longer periods, but again, reactions vary.
Reduce or stop using CBD if your dog shows side effects such as:
Dramatic drowsiness
Gastrointestinal symptoms
Physical discomfort
Agitation
CBD Product Dosages for Dogs
Most CBD labels suggest a starting dose of 1 or 2 milligrams (mg) per 10 pounds of body weight directly on the tongue, in food, in a treat, or applied directly to the skin. A conservative approach is to use half the recommended amount for a first dose, as individual responses vary. Within an hour or two, your dog may show an obvious reaction, such as moving more easily or looking more relaxed. If not, experiment with 1 mg per 10 pounds of body weight for a low dose, 3 mg per 10 pounds of body weight for a medium dose, and 5 mg per 10 pounds of body weight for a stronger dose.
If your dog doesn’t show any reaction at all, increase the dose next time. In general, chronic issues respond well with long-term, steady, lower quantities over time, while situational stresses can respond to higher quantities in a short time. A dog who has overdone it and is in pain or discomfort could benefit from a short-term dose that’s double or triple product’s label recommendation.
Low-strength doses of CBD support sleep and general wellness while higher-strength doses may help with pain, inflammation, anxiety, aggression, and reactions to fireworks, thunder, and other loud noises. Many veterinarians recommend staying with an introductory dose for 3 to 5 days before gradually increasing the amount.
Finding Reliable Hemp Oil Products for Dogs
Hemp of dogs and other hemp-derived products vary in quality and potency. Tests conducted by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration and other organizations confirm that inaccurate label claims, incorrect CBD quantities, and product quality problems are widespread. Most of the information available to dog owners comes from advertising claims and product labels.
“Buyer beware” is sensible advice in this market.
The first step in finding a reliable product for your pup is to learn about different manufacturers and focus on those who clearly describe their philosophy, history, raw material sourcing, products, and use instructions. If your veterinarian has experience with CBD products, ask for recommendations. To help pet owners, the Veterinary Cannabis Society offers a curated research library, collections of popular articles, and a directory of practitioners.
Look for third-party test results, which are chemical analyses resulting in Certificates of Analysis (COAs) from a laboratory not affiliated with the product’s manufacturer. Reliable manufacturers test every batch of every product for purity, safety, potency, and accurate labeling. In addition, the NASC or National Animal Supplement Council’s Quality Seal, USDA Organic Seal, and U.S. Hemp Authority Seal ensure that best manufacturing practices were followed in the product’s sourcing, production, and labeling.
Trends in Hemp Oil for Dogs and Other Cannabinoid Pet Products
In addition to hemp oil, popular hemp-derived products for dogs include tinctures, tablets, capsules, peanut butters, gummies, creams, biscuits, chews, toppers, powders, and oils. Most are oil-based, using hemp seed, camelina, coconut, avocado, or other vegetable oils. Most new products are edibles, but some are sprays or salves designed for topical application. Isolates are single cannabinoids, such as CBD, CBG, and CBC, and several products contain isolates that boost their effect on physical discomfort or anxiety.
Nanotechnology is the latest buzz word in CBD product manufacturing, along with water-soluble cannabinoids. For examples, see Super Snouts Hemp Company,
What did we look for in the best washable dog beds? Comfort, durability, and ease of use made the top products stand out. Credit: Jae Thomas
If your dog spends a lot of time snoozing in their bed, a washable dog bed will last much longer (and stay much cleaner) than one that can’t be easily cleaned. Whether you have a dog who sheds, drools, or likes to chew bones in her bed, a washable dog bed makes cleanup easy for pet parents.
We tested 5 popular dog beds with washable covers at a variety of different price points to find the ones that are worth the money and will hold up to your dog’s daily sleeping routine.
Traits We Want in a Washable Dog Bed
Ease of use: Preferably, a washable dog bed is easy to assemble, disassemble, and toss in the washer without much instruction needed. We assembled, washed, and re-assembled each of the dog beds on this list and prioritized beds that were easy to clean and weren’t a hassle to get back in their washable covers.
Curious about the best practices for cleaning dog beds? Check out our guide for how to wash dog beds.
Size range: From toy dogs to giant breeds, we looked for beds that offer a wide range of sizes for different sized dogs.
Durability and quality: With some dog beds costing more than one hundred dollars, you want one that will last. We gave extra points to beds that will hold up well to day-to-day life with dogs. Quality goes hand-in-hand here too—we looked for beds that felt high quality and had comfortable, supportive inserts.
Design (according to your dog’s sleep style): This one will depend on your dog’s preferences. If your pup is constantly curled into a little ball, opt for a donut-style bed or one with bolsters to make her feel more secure. If your dog mostly sleeps in a crate, grab a non-bolster bed that fits in her kennel.
This Orvis bed is supportive, squishy, and has a high-quality memory foam center and tall bolsters, perfect for dogs who like to rest their heads or pups who like to cuddle up.
I’ve had a Fable bed in my dog’s crate for over 3 years and it’s still in impeccable condition, even with nightly use. It’s easy to take the cover off to wash and it hasn’t gotten flat over the years.
Supportive orthopedic foam, a puppy and senior dog-friendly design, a variety of sizes, and a reasonable price point make the FurHaven Ultra Plush Luxe Lounger the best budget washable dog bed we tested.
The insert on this bed isn’t super supportive and could have more fill. It seems like it would get flat fairly quickly if used by a big dog. However, it’s cozy for dogs who like to sleep curled up and is reasonably priced.
The cover of this bed is stylish and soft but I expected the foam insert to have more support since it’s labeled as orthopedic. Though this bed is a fine option, it wasn’t as high quality as I’d expect for the price.
Best Washable Dog Bed: Orvis Memory Foam Couch Dog Bed
While a bit pricey, the Orvis Memory Foam Couch is supportive, cozy, and durable. Best of all, it’s extremely easy to clean. Credit: Jae Thomas
Long-lasting memory foam, squishy bolsters, and a cozy washable cover make this Orvis Memory Foam Couch Dog Bed every dog’s dream. It’s great for pretty much all sleeping styles, is incredibly supportive without being too firm, and was by far the highest-quality washable dog bed on this list.
The memory foam center is covered in a water-resistant liner, so accidents and drool are no problems. This bed was easy to put together, stood up to the washer and dryer with no problems. I love that it can be machine washed and dried, as many washable dog bed covers can’t be put in the dryer.
This bed is priced high at $269-$389 depending on size, but it’s a product that will keep your furry friend extremely comfortable and is built to last.
Best Washable Dog Bed for Crates: Fable Dog Bed
If you’re looking for a washable dog bed that can fit in a crate, the Fable Dog Bed is comfortable, easy to clean, and can stand up to a surprising amount of wear and tear. Credit: Jae Thomas
I got a Fable Dog Bed in 2022 for my rescue dog, Miso. She loves her crate and sleeps in it every night (and pretty much all day, too), so this bed has gotten a lot of use over the last three years. I wash it every few months, and it’s easy to take off of the insert and put back on. Just unzip the cover, throw it in the washing machine, and let it air dry to clean it.
The insert on this bed is made of crushed foam, which is both squishy and supportive. This bed hasn’t flattened out at all, even with nightly use for multiple years.
The cover on the Fable dog bed is also surprisingly durable. Miso is a nester and digs at her bed multiple times every night. Even with her strong nails, she’s never scratched or damaged the cover of this bed, and it’s never been stained, either. It does hold onto a lot of dog hair, but since it’s washable, I just wash it when my pup is shedding.
Best Budget Dog Bed: FurHaven Ultra Plush Luxe Lounger
The FurHaven Ultra Plush Luxe Lounger is a solid pick for those looking for a less expensive washable bed for their dogs. Credit: Jae Thomas
Though some of the beds on this list were more supportive and more durable, the FurHaven Ultra Plush Luxe Lounger is a great washable bed for multiple reasons. First, the design is ideal for young and old dogs alike, since it’s low in the middle for easy access but still offers a head rest for pups on the sides.
Secondly, this bed is filled with orthopedic foam that’s surprisingly supportive given that it’s thinner in the middle than some other options tested. This bed is also reasonably priced, starting at $41 for the smallest size and going up to $167 for the biggest sizes. It’s often on sale at Chewy for 15-20% off the retail price for the budget-conscious pet parent.
The cover shed a bit in the wash and wasn’t the most durable of the options I tested (it’s a bit thin), but is overall a solid, supportive dog bed that my dogs enjoyed lounging on.
Best Washable Bed for Dogs Who Like to Cuddle: Best Friends by Sheri The Original Calming Donut Cuddler
The Calming Donut Cuddler is a washable option for dogs who like to cuddle into their beds. Credit: Jae Thomas
The Best Friends by Sheri The Original Calming Donut Cuddler is probably the most popular donut-style bed on the market. The exterior is fluffy shag faux fur and has a huge fluffy bolster for dogs who like to burrow or sleep curled up in a ball. It also has a water- and dirt-resistant bottom to protect the bed from dirty floors and protect your floors from accidents.
Though most people would probably opt to size up for most dog beds, this one can be sized down if your pup is between sizes for the coziest experience. Your pup will feel more snugly supported with a smaller size and the fill tends to flatten out over time, which makes the bed feel slightly bigger.
I have a few friends who have this bed and after multiple years of use with medium- to large-sized dogs, this bed tends to go flat. The fill isn’t the highest quality and I wish that the center had more fill so that it would be more supportive. Though the bed is easy to take apart and wash, it’s a bit of a hassle to get the bolster back into the cover post-cleaning.
Most Stylish Washable Dog Bed: EveryYay Snooze Fest Orthopedic Cuddler Dog Bed
The EveryYay Snooze Fest Orthopedic Cuddler Dog Bed is a soft, simple, and stylish choice. Credit: Jae Thomas
If you’re a minimalist who likes a simple dog bed, this EveryYay Snooze Fest Orthopedic Cuddler Dog Bed is sleek and stylish. It features a soft boucle-like knit cover that easily unzips and can be thrown in the washer and the dryer.
My dogs enjoyed this bed during testing, especially my Collie who sleeps stretched out. The low bolsters on this bed give dogs room to move around, while still providing a good place to rest their head.
Though this bed is labeled as orthopedic and provides a decent amount of support, the egg crate foam in the center of the bed wasn’t as high quality as I’d expect based on the price. The cover is also a bit thin, so if your dog nests or digs, opting for a more scratch-resistant washable bed is likely a better choice.
It is far wiser to give your puppy an appropriate chew toy than to let him make his own choice. Credit: Stefan Cristian Cioata | Getty Images
Bones and chews should be tailored to your puppy’s specific age, size, breed, and chewing intensity. Not all products are safe or suitable for young dogs.
Providing your puppy with appropriate chewing options is an often-overlooked aspect of puppy care, especially during the teething phase. Just like human babies, puppies go through a stage where their baby teeth fall out and adult teeth emerge. This process can be uncomfortable and comes with an instinctive desire to chew on objects to relieve the pressure in their gums. Offering the best chews for teething puppies during this developmental window not only helps soothe their pain but also prevents them from targeting your belongings as chew toys. Among our favorite choices for puppy chews are the Kong Puppy Chew Dog Toy and the Nylabone Teething Ring Puppy Chew Toy.
The Best Chew Bones for Puppies
The best bones and chews for your puppy are those that promote safety and healthy dental development while satisfying your puppy’s urge to chew. Avoid very hard or cooked bones. Instead, look for softer bones, natural chews, soft rubber toys, and specially formulated puppy products. Reconsider if you’re looking at a rope chew for your puppy. Accidents can happen.
A good rule of thumb when selecting a chew is to look for products labeled specifically for puppies. These are tested, or at least developed, with safety in mind while meeting the chewing needs of a younger dog. Additionally, you should match the size and density of the chew to your puppy’s breed and age. A small-breed puppy needs a much smaller and softer chew than a large breed puppy who might require something a bit more robust to keep them occupied and satisfied.
Puppies Need Softer Chews
Marrow bones are sometimes recommended for adult dogs, but they are not ideal for teething puppies. While these bones contain nutrients and offer a natural chewing experience, they can be too hard for a puppy’s mouth and fragile milk teeth. Additionally, the hollow center can get wedged onto their jaws, leading to a vet visit.
No cooked bones for puppies. These should always be avoided as they are brittle and can splinter, leading to choking or internal injuries. Raw bones are less likely to splinter.
Consider beef knuckle bones for puppies. When it comes to bones, beef knuckle bones can help get stubborn puppy teeth out due to their shape. They are also softer than most of the long bones sold as marrow bones. Puppy-safe antlers and natural chews can also be considered, though they must be chosen carefully. Split elk antlers, for example, are sometimes recommended over whole antlers as they expose the softer marrow center and reduce the risk of tooth fractures. However, even these should be introduced cautiously and monitored closely.
Natural chews for puppies.Bully sticks and tendons are natural alternatives that provide a satisfying chew and can be easier on young teeth. These products tend to be digestible and flavorful, making them a popular choice among pet owners, though some can be high in calories and should be fed in moderation. Many pet brands offer synthetic bone alternatives specifically designed for teething puppies. These chews are often made from soft rubber or nylon, and some can be frozen to provide additional relief for sore gums.
Tight, stiff body posture and bared teeth are often indicators that a dog fight is imminent. Pay attention and separate dogs demonstrating these behaviors before the situation escalates. Credit: Krit of Studio OMG | Getty Images
When dogs fight, it can be scary and stressful for both owners and the dogs involved, especially if they result in injuries to the dogs or the people that attempt to break up the fight. Dogs can fight for different reasons and understanding those reasons—as well as body language precursors that can predict a fight—is important to help prevent fights. This helps keep dogs and the people they live with safe.
Why Do Dogs Fight?
Dog aggression is a common behavioral problem and is part of the normal canine behavioral repertoire. Although dog-to-dog aggression is commonplace, severe injuries and death are quite uncommon. Dogs fight for different reasons, the most common or which include:
Resource guarding—typically food, toys, people, and/or space
Fear or anxiety—often due to a lack of prior positive socialization and/or negative past experiences associated with other dogs
Territorial behavior
Social incompatibility
Predatory aggression—where the victim dog (usually small and fluffy) triggers predatory behavior such as stalking, chasing, biting, and shaking
Dogs that fight other dogs in public can be labelled “dangerous dogs” and seized in many countries while the authorities investigate and decide their fate. Depending on the severity of the incident, this could include euthanasia and frequently involves confinement in kennels, often for long periods of time, significantly reducing welfare.
Warning Signs That Could Signal a Dog Fight
Dogs who are play fighting will often stop to play bow at each other, like the dog in this photo. Credit: Mary Swift | Getty Images
Although they can be subtle, most dogs will display warning signs that signal a fight may be imminent. These include stiff body posture, raised hackles, direct eye contact or a hard stare, freezing or sudden stillness, growling or barring teeth, and escalating arousal during play. Upon observing these signs, it is crucial to intervene in order to prevent a dog fight.
Is it Play or Aggression?
Dogs have different play styles and some enjoy the rough and tumble of a good play fight. Play fighting is a normal form of social interaction in which dogs display mock aggression without the intent to cause harm to one another. Indeed, puppies wrestle and play fight with their littermates almost continuously from the age of several weeks until they go to their new homes.
In older puppies and adult dogs this behavior can look very similar to a real dog fight, as it can include growling, biting, and wrestling. However, the intensity is moderated to prevent injuries.
One of the telltale signs that fighting is play is the “play bow” where a dog lowers the front end of her body so the front legs are flat on the ground and her back end is raised in the air. Another sign of a play “fight” is that the dogs will take turns when it comes to play fighting behaviors.
How to Prevent Dog Fights
Dogs that fight with other dogs and cause injury are a risk to public health and can cause physical and psychological damage to the victim. Prevention is therefore key to stopping dogs from fighting.
When possible, preventing dog fights starts with providing a dog with early and ongoing positive socialization experiences with a range of other dogs. This helps dogs learn how to interact appropriately with lots of different types of dogs. Remember that close supervision during interactions between dogs is important in order to ensure both are having a positive experience and interacting appropriately.
Additional prevention strategies include provision of adequate resources to minimize or prevent competition and avoiding situations which could result in dog fights—such as fear in response to certain types of dogs due to a lack of prior socialization or negative past experiences. You can also build positive associations between dogs by pairing them with high value treats and reinforcing calm, friendly, and compliant behavior in the presence of other dogs.
In addition, neutering and spaying can help reduce hormonal influences that may contribute to aggression.
Keep in mind that you can’t prevent dog fights you can’t see happening. Manage your dogs’ environment as necessary to avoid dogs escaping the property.
How to Break Up a Dog Fight
If you come upon a dog fight and need to break it up, this should be done very carefully in order to avoid being injured in the process. Never pull dogs apart by their collars or get in between fighting dogs as this often results in redirected aggression and bite injuries to the person. Instead, there are safer methods that should be used to break up a dog fight. These include:
Distracting the fighting dogs with a loud noise (e.g. yelling, clapping, airhorn etc.), spraying them with a hose, or throwing a bucket of water over them can interrupt the fight and allow some time to separate the dogs.
Using a physical barrier such as a flattened cardboard box, piece of plywood, or blanket placed between the dogs so they cannot see each other can help stop a dog fight.
Pulling the dogs apart by grabbing their back legs and walking backwards helps create distance while minimizing the chance of a bite injury to the person.
A bite stick (also called a break stick) is a tool used to help break a dog’s grip during a bite. These tools are especially helpful in bite incidents in which a dog will not let go as it’s designed to be inserted into the mouth and turned to pry open the jaw and release the bite.
What to Do After a Dog Fight
After the initial fight, dogs will often continue to fight, given the chance. To prevent further fights, it’s important to take the following steps:
First, physically separate the dogs to prevent them from seeing or interacting with one another.
Second, take the dogs to the vet for a thorough check. In addition to treating any injuries sustained during the fight, the vet will be able to help either identify or rule out health or medical issues that may have caused a dog to act aggressively. Cognitive decline, reduced eyesight and hearing, pain and arthritis are common contributing factors, especially when a dog hasn’t previously behaved aggressively.
Next, seek professional help from a qualified veterinary behaviorist or applied animal behaviorist who has relevant experience, especially if the fight has resulted in injuries.
Finally, re-introduce the dogs gradually using desensitization and counter-conditioning techniques to build a positive association and help repair their relationship. Separate the dogs outside of training sessions and when you cannot actively supervise them. This is best done with the help of a professional.
Long Term Management to Stop Dogs from Fighting in the Same Household
To help stop dogs in the same home from fighting in the long-term, good management and training practices are essential for success. Strategies to help prevent further fights should include:
Continuing to physically separate the dogs, so they cannot see one another outside of training sessions and when you are able to actively supervise them
Daily desensitization and counter-conditioning sessions to help rebuild and maintain a positive association between the dogs. These sessions can also be used to reinforce calm, compliant, and friendly (or at least tolerate) behavior toward one another. As mentioned above, this is best done with guidance from a professional.
Avoid triggers for aggression, such as resource guarding, by feeding the dogs separately and giving them one-on-one attention when the other dog is in another room so they don’t compete for attention.
Don’t leave high value items lying around such as bones, favorite toys, treats, or food in bowls.
Muzzles are an excellent tool as the re-introduction process progresses to having the dogs spend time together in the same space whilst helping to avoid injuries. Be sure to condition the dogs to accept wearing the muzzles.
Ensure regular check-ups with the vet to identify and treat health and medical issues that can contribute to aggression between dogs in the same home.
Consistency in training and management are critical, as is having patience. It can take time to repair the relationship between dogs who have fought.
When to Seek Professional Help
Dog fights can be dangerous. If your dog’s aggression is frequent, escalates, or causes injuries it’s time to seek professional help from a qualified veterinary behaviorist or applied animal behaviorist.
Running with your dog can be a great way for you both to get exercise and stay in shape. However, to avoid injuries and make sure your dog is having a good time, be sure to build up slowly to longer, faster runs. Credit: Maria Levkina | Getty Images
What’s better than running by yourself? Running with dogs, of course. If you run regularly, running with your canine companion is a fun way to spend time with your pup while providing physical exercise. But don’t just start running with your dog — follow these steps to ensure your pooch will make a good running companion and is set up for success.
Which Dogs are Best for Running?
Many types of dogs can make good running companions. The best dog for running will depend on what kind of running you’re doing and at what distances.
Highly athletic dogs like German Shorthaired Pointers, Border Collies, and Malinois are often picked as canicross racing dogs. If you want a dog that can handle longer runs, opt for a breed that was bred to run long distances, like Siberian Huskies, Alaskan Huskies, or Malamutes.
However, keep in mind that these breeds are all high intensity, and will need more physical and mental exercise than just a few miles of running a couple of times per week.
If you’re looking for a more laid-back running companion, breeds like Labradors, Golden Retrievers, Poodles, and even Collies would be happy to go on a few shorter runs per week, if they’re well-conditioned.
Many mixed breed dogs also make great running partners and the distance they’re able to run will depend on their age, breed mix, and health status.
Brachycephalic dogs like French and English Bulldogs are generally more sensitive to heat and may have a harder time with strenuous exercise, like running, for long periods of time.
How to Safely Start Running With Your Dog
Check With a Vet
If you haven’t taken your dog in for her annual checkup yet, make an appointment with your vet before starting any running conditioning. Your vet will ensure your dog has normal range of motion, is at a good weight, and is overall healthy enough to start training to run.
If your dog is under 2 years old, your vet will likely recommend holding off on running to allow your pup’s joints to develop fully. Running is a high-impact activity, so very young dogs, old dogs, dogs who are overweight, and dogs with some pre-existing conditions may not be suitable.
If your dog is recovering from any injuries, your vet may recommend visiting a rehab vet, a massage therapist, or working on canine conditioning exercises to aid in the recovery process before starting a running program.
Start Slow
Before you run, you have to walk! Any running training will begin by taking your dog on walks and slowly increasing the distance you’re walking.
Decide if you want to run with your dog out ahead of you (canicross style) or if you want your dog to run at your side. If you choose to have your dog run at your side, start teaching loose leash manners while walking. You can teach your dog to stay at your side by marking and rewarding with treats or toys when she’s in the right position.
If you ultimately want your dog to pull out in front of you, get a pulling-specific harness, like the Non-stop Dogwear Rush Harness to protect your dog’s body, and start teaching her how to pull in it. You may need a friend to help you reward your dog initially. Praise and reward your dog when she shifts her weight into the harness out in front of you and slowly build up how long she’s pulling into the harness.
Teach Your Dog Running Cues
Training your dog to respond to running-specific cues can be helpful when you’re out for a jog with her. Here are the most common running/canicross cues that will help you and your dog stay in sync while running:
Stand/stay: Teaching your dog to stand and wait in place is useful for when you’re getting geared up to run but need to adjust your gear or your dog’s gear.
Right and left turn: Many canicrossers, bikejorers, and skijorers call their right turn “Gee” and their left turn “Haw.” You can teach these cue while walking first. Right before you take a right or left turn, say the appropriate word and reward the dog when she gets it right.
Slow down: Many canicrossers, bikejorers, and skijorers use “easy” as their slow down cue. You can teach this by saying “easy” before slowing down your pace. When your dog slows down her pace to match yours, you can mark it and reward her.
Passing: “On by” is the most common cue for this. “On by” means that your dog should pass another person or dog without interacting with them. “Leave it” is a good foundational skill for this cue.
Plan and Implement Warm-Up and Cooldown Routines
Just like humans shouldn’t start sprinting without warming up and cooling down, neither should dogs. Ensure that your dog has done a warm-up—walking for about 10 minutes before you start jogging is a good way to warm muscles up and prevent injuries. You can also incorporate canine conditioning exercises and stretches before a run, like figure 8’s between your legs, or cookie stretches where your dog stretches their nose to touch their sides.
After a jog, aim to walk your dog for about 10 minutes or until they catch their breath. You can do similar canine conditioning exercises after a run as well.
Begin Jogging With Your Dog
Once you’ve been walking with your dog regularly, you can start to incorporate slow bursts of jogging. Try jogging for one minute, then walk for a few minutes, and slowly build up the time spent jogging from there.
Most dogs can run for 2-5 miles if properly conditioned (some more, some less), so aim to get up to 1-2 miles of jogging a few times per week before adding any speed.
Try to avoid sidewalks or asphalt as much as possible when running with your dog. Not only do these surfaces get hot in the sun, but they also put more stress on your dog’s body than dirt trails do.
Monitor Your Dog
As you begin to incorporate jogging into your dog’s walks, keep an eye on your pup to make sure she’s comfortable and having a good time. Be sure to only run when temperatures won’t cause your dog to overheat and keep a dog water bottle on you to ensure your dog doesn’t get dehydrated.
If your dog is offering stress signals while running, take a break. Running should be fun for both you and your dog!
To be competitive in dock diving sports, the dogs have to love every bit of it: fetching, leaping, splashing, and swimming.
Dock-diving competitions were featured at the county fair last week, and I couldn’t get enough. The dogs—so eager to leap, so graceful as they soared through the air, hitting the water with a tremendous splash, and swimming strongly to the toy/lure. Their handlers—serving more as hype men/personal assistants than bosses issuing orders as they escorted the canine athletes to the launching platform, cheered them on, and helped them from the water and wiped them down with towels after their performances. The relationships between them were so heart-warming to see.
Years ago, I had high hopes for participating in this sport with my now-9-year-old dog, Woody. After all, he’s wildly athletic, highly toy-driven, can leap high over my head, and loves to swim! He’d be a natural, I thought!
But it turned out that my high-jumping, strong-swimming dog absolutely hates getting water in his ears! So much so that if you throw his favorite ball into a river or lake, he will race enthusiastically toward the water, and, as he reaches the edge, will always stop and then carefully wade in before he starts strongly swimming toward the toy. And if a wave or splash from another dog causes him to get water in his ears, he will quit the pursuit of his toy and start shaking his head hard as he swims for shore—which only makes more water get in his ears. Leaping into the water is out of the question for Woody; absolutely nothing could compel him to do it.
(Yes, I tried buying a “swimming cap” or swim snood for him—a soft neoprene wrap that is fastened with a Velcro-like material and covers the dog’s ears, keeping water out; he hated it more than getting water in his ears, and would refuse to walk, much less fetch or swim, when he had it on. Most dogs who love swimming or fetching will accept the snood so they can fetch and swim; not my sensitive boy. While this is a great solution for dogs who get ear infections from swimming, it didn’t work for Woody.)
So, years ago, even though it seemed like I had the perfect dog for that sport, and we live near any number of bodies of water where we could practice, I had to give up on the hope of ever participating with him in dock diving. And honestly, that’s fine; it’s not like I bought a puppy with the express hope of competing in dock-diving events.
But lots of people do buy puppies with the express hope of participating in specific activities, from sports such as agility and Ring Sport, to team-based work such as search and rescue or therapy dog visits. And not all the dogs who are selected for these activities turn out to be suitable candidates for those activities! Then what?
Ideally, those owners are able to pivot and find new activities to share with their dogs, because there is nothing sadder than seeing a dog being coerced to participate in an activity that he doesn’t enjoy. One hopes that a trainer or friend will gently suggest a different sport or activity to the dog’s owner, or that the owner sees the joy leaking out of their dog and gets a clue. But it’s difficult to pull the plug on a big investment of time and training and equipment—and even in the social relationships that sport enthusiasts have made with their fellow competitors! If one of your friends has a dog who is clearly not enjoying the work or sport he’s being asked to do, make sure you offer your friend a lot of support for respecting their dog enough to accept the dog’s preference. A forced performance is just sad to see.
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