Osteosarcoma is the most common type of bone tumor diagnosed in dogs, affecting an estimated 10,000 dogs each year in the U.S. alone. Too many owners are aware that this disease can be extremely aggressive with a poor prognosis.
In October 2018 at the Veterinary Cancer Society annual conference, researchers from the University of Missouri presented their initial findings of a clinical trial of a new patient-specific targeted treatment: a vaccine created from the dog’s own tumor that harnesses the power of the dog’s immune system to eliminate the cancer.
The team partnered with ELIAS Animal Health to evaluate ELIAS’ Cancer Immunotherapy (ECI). Fifteen privately owned dogs (not laboratory animals) with osteosarcoma were enrolled in the study. The 10 dogs who completed the therapy (consisting of the ECI vaccine and protocol) experienced extended survival times – a median of 415 days of remission. This greatly exceeds the median remission time reported for osteosarcoma patients receiving amputation and chemotherapy (about eight to 12 months). Half of the dogs who received all aspects of the therapy are still alive, without disease, well over a year and a half later.
Further, the study found the treatment to be safe and tolerable. Chemotherapy can have toxic side effects and destroy healthy cells, so it’s really exciting that “it’s the first time that dogs with osteosarcoma have experienced prolonged survival without receiving chemotherapy in a clinical trial,” says Jeffrey M. Bryan, DVM, PhD, DACVIM Oncology, professor of oncology at MU’s College of Veterinary Medicine and director of the school’s Comparative Oncology Radiobiology and Epigenetics Laboratory.
How the Bone Cancer Vaccine Works
The treatment involves a two-part protocol that takes about 60 days. Surgical removal of the patient’s tumor by a veterinarian is the first step. The cancerous tissue is sent to the ELIAS lab where a patient-specific vaccine is produced and returned to the vet. The vaccines are administered on a weekly basis to activate the dog’s immune system T cells to recognize his cancer.
The second step begins two weeks after the first step is complete. Using apheresis (a procedure that separates blood cells), a specialty center harvests the cancer-specific Tcells generated by the vaccine from the dog. These T cells are sent to ELIAS, where they undergo a proprietary process to produce a tumor-specific population of activated cancer-killing T cells. These are, in turn, sent back to the veterinarian for administration to the dog.
The ELIAS process activates the dog’s lymphocytes, priming them to identify, attack, and destroy the dog’s unique tumor cells. This immunotherapeutic approach targets specific cancer cells; it does not destroy other rapidly dividing cells like chemotherapy does.
While the vaccine is not a preventative and is therapeutic only after diagnosis, “the body also develops a memory of immune targets, which may lead to long-term control of tumors,” Dr. Bryan says. This could mean significant advances in survival and disease-free intervals.
The treatment is available through ELIAS Animal Health. “The collection of the tissue and administration of the vaccine and T-cell infusion could be performed by any veterinarian trained in the procedures,” Dr. Bryan says. For more information about ECI and whether your dog is a candidate for treatment, see EliasAnimalHealth.com.
Having lost two dogs to cancer, long-time WDJ contributor Barbara Dobbins follows canine cancer research news closely.
A yellow tint to the skin or gums, as seen here, is called
jaundice or icterus;
it’s caused by a
buildup of bilirubin.
A diseased liver can’t
filter and remove the
bilirubin from the
blood as it should.
Little attention is paid to the dog’s liver, part of the hepatobiliary tree (which also includes the gallbladder and bile ducts). The oversight is odd, because the liver performs many important jobs in the dog’s body. It’s responsible for everything from production of protein and clotting factors to mobilization of glucose from fat stores to provide energy. It metabolizes drugs and filters the blood. It can even regenerate if damaged. As much as 75 percent of the liver can be compromised before any clinical signs are seen. Due to its many functions, it is also susceptible to infection, inflammation, toxins, and cancers.
Signs of liver disease can include lethargy, decreased appetite, vomiting, diarrhea, bruising of the skin (small patches of bruising are called petechiae; larger patches are called ecchymoses), abdominal distention, weakness, and a yellow tint to the skin and gums (called jaundice or icterus).
Liver Tests for Dogs
If your veterinarian is concerned about liver disease, she may recommend several tests. The first and least invasive tests are blood tests, including a complete blood count (CBC) and chemistry panel.
The CBC evaluates red blood cells, white blood cells, and platelets, all of which can be affected with liver dysfunction.
The chemistry panel can evaluate values for individual enzymes released by the liver. These are the alanine transferase (ALT), alkaline phosphatase (ALP), gamma glutamyl transferase (GGT), and total bilirubin (Tbili). These tests are basic liver assessments, but they do not indicate actual liver function.
ALT is an enzyme that may be released with any source of damage to the liver. Blunt trauma, anaphylactic reaction, systemic illness such as thyroid disorders, and other problems that have nothing to do with the liver can cause an elevation of ALT in the blood. Just because ALT is elevated doesn’t mean the liver is failing, however. This result is interpreted in conjunction with clinical signs and other bloodwork and imaging changes.
In contrast, the liver enzymes ALP and GGT are released only in response to a problem in the hepatobiliary tree. ALP can also be found in the bones and intestines. Young, growing dogs will often have ALP elevations due to bone growth, while older animals with bone cancer can have high ALP levels, too. Again, an elevated value of this enzyme alone does not necessarily indicate disease.
Bilirubin is a yellow pigment found inside the liver and also in red blood cells. The liver metabolizes bilirubin, and when the liver is failing, blood levels of bilirubin will increase. This is what causes the yellow tint to the skin when a dog has jaundice.
The signs of advanced liver disease can be quite dramatic. The dog here is displaying widespread ecchymotic hemorrhage, caused by low clotting factors. Photo courtesy of Catherine Ashe, DVM.
The next assessment looks at the function of the liver. This is usually done with tests for bile acids, ammonia levels, and coagulation profiles. Bile acids are secreted by the liver in response to eating. Testing must be done while fasted; a blood sample is drawn, then the patient is fed, and another sample taken one to two hours later.
The liver is essential in making clotting factors. When it begins to fail, this ability is impeded, and uncontrolled hemorrhage can occur. There are specific tests to evaluate clotting times – called prothrombin time and activated partial thromboplastin time (PT and APTT).
Ammonia is a waste product, and when the liver is failing, ammonia levels will rise. All of these function tests are usually sent to outside laboratories for evaluation.
Imaging of the liver generally includes X-ray and ultrasound. More advanced studies may be conducted with CT scan or MRI with contrast. X-rays can determine if there is liver enlargement or large liver tumors, but it cannot show any of the liver’s internal architecture; ultrasound, CT, and MRI are used for this.
Samples of the liver can be taken in two ways. In a fine needle aspirate, a small needle is introduced into the liver and suction applied; then the sample is evaluated under a microscope. In a biopsy, a piece of tissue is taken via exploratory surgery or laparoscopically, and is tested with a culture and/or with a microscopic examination.
Types of Liver Trouble in Dogs
Given the complexity of this organ’s work, it shouldn’t come as a surprise that there are a number of different ways that the liver can be compromised. We’ll organize them by the type of problem.
Congenital Problems
The blood vessels in the liver normally have a very particular arrangement. Some puppies are born with extra or aberrant blood vessels called portosystemic shunts (PSS). Think of the liver as a blood filter; with a PSS, much of the blood bypasses the liver.
Symptoms of a PSS develop because the liver is not metabolizing properly due to the abnormal blood flow and the buildup of waste products in the blood. These symptoms may include abnormal behavior (particularly after eating), failure to gain weight and grow, and seizure activity. Liver function tests (such as a test for bile acids) and imaging can often identify the shunt. Surgery to improve blood flow to the liver is the treatment of choice in young dogs.
Some breeds are particularly prone to PSS. These include Yorkshire Terriers, Pugs, and Miniature Schnauzers.
Portal vein hypoplasia (formerly called microvascular dysplasia) is another congenital problem that can be present at birth or develop later in life. It is very similar to a PSS, and sometimes, it can be extremely difficult to differentiate the two based on the usual liver testing. The difference is that most dogs are asymptomatic, and the abnormality is found on routine pre-anesthetic screening bloodwork or at the time of another illness. The only change may be mild elevations of liver enzymes.
This Pomeranian is in the final stages of liver failure. The “pot belly” is a result of fluid accumulation in her abdomen. Photo courtesy of Catherine Ashe, DVM.
Infectious and Inflammatory Liver Ailments
Leptospirosis is an infectious disease, caused by a bacteria found in stagnant water such as ponds and puddles. It is most known for causing kidney failure in dogs, but it can also induce liver failure. The initial symptoms are vomiting, diarrhea, lethargy, fever, red, painful eyes (uveitis), and sometimes muscle pain and stiffness or cough. Illness can be severe and life-threatening.
There is a leptospirosis vaccine, but it’s generally considered a “lifestyle” vaccine – meaning that it may not be appropriate for all canines. For example, dogs who have little or no access to puddles or ponds may have little risk of encountering the leptospira bacteria, making the vaccine unnecessary. But the fact that leptospirosis is zoonotic (humans can contract the disease) makes some veterinarians (including me) recommend the vaccine for all dogs. It’s best to discuss this vaccine with your veterinarian.
Hepatitis is a general word for liver inflammation. There are several types in dogs, including infectious hepatitis and inflammatory hepatitis. Copper storage hepatopathy is a well-described disease in which the liver accumulates too much copper. Predisposed breeds include Labrador Retrievers, Doberman Pinschers, Bedlington Terriers, and West Highland White Terriers.
Canine adenovirus can cause an infection in the liver. Vaccination has largely eliminated this condition although it can still occur in unvaccinated dogs.
Toxicity-Induced Liver Trouble
The liver is especially susceptible to toxins. As a filter for the body, it metabolizes many of the substances in the blood.
Xylitol is a common sweetener found in kitchens, especially those of diabetics. It prevents wide fluctuations in insulin and glucose in humans. In dogs, however, it can cause a hefty insulin release. This drives blood sugar down, leading to hypoglycemia. The symptoms occur within 30 minutes of ingesting xylitol, and include weakness, tremoring, seizures, and coma. If a large enough dose is ingested, liver failure will occur. This can take two days to a week to manifest, so just because your dog isn’t showing any immediate symptoms doesn’t mean the ingestion should be ignored.
Xylitol is also included in sugar-free gums and candies, as well as some compounded medications and peanut butter. Always check for the presence of this chemical before giving your dog a new treat or compounded medication.
Sago (cycads) palm are another source of deadly liver toxins. These plants were once isolated to subtropical and tropical areas, but today, sago palms are now available almost anywhere. They are extremely poisonous to dogs, leading to death within a day to a week after ingestion. Every part of the plant is considered toxic, so these should not be kept in homes or in landscaping where dogs are present.
The initial symptoms of ingestion are rapid in onset (within minutes to a few hours) and include drooling, vomiting, diarrhea, and lethargy.
If you suspect your dog has eaten sago palm, do not wait to see if symptoms manifest. Immediate and aggressive decontamination is needed. Your veterinarian will likely induce vomiting to remove any sago palm from the stomach, give activated charcoal to prevent further absorption, and then start intravenous (IV) fluids.
Aggressive treatment is absolutely imperative. Most dogs who ingest sago will spend anywhere from a week to two in the hospital. Treatment will include IV fluids, nutritional support, antibiotics for secondary bacterial infections, and other advanced therapeutics such as fresh frozen plasma transfusions and vitamin K administration. Liver values and clotting times will be checked at least daily and maybe more often. If your dog isn’t eating, a feeding tube may be placed through the nose or IV nutrition given into the catheter. The prognosis for survival, even with treatment, is only about 50 percent.
Beware the Deadly Sago Palm
Dr. Kimberly Chambers is a veterinarian in Conroe, Texas. She knew that sago palms (Cycas revoluta) were poisonous, and so when she moved into her beautiful new home, she had the sago palms in her yard cut down and removed.
Some time later, Dr. Chambers adopted a puppy, Theo.Last June, at four months of age, Theo was digging in the yard and – apparently – dug up and chewed some roots of the palm that were still in the ground.
Dr. Chambers didn’t see this happen, but about an hour after he had been outside digging, Theo vomited in the house. The bits of the root jogged her memory; she realized it was likely sago palm roots. She induced Theo to vomit some more, and then drove quickly to the closest specialty veterinary hospital.
At first, it seemed as if Theo might have been treated fast enough. He had only mild elevations in his liver enzymes. He was sent home with liver supportive medications and orders for Dr. Chambers to monitor him closely. But his appetite was poor. He grew, but he remained thin.
Weeks later, since he was still underweight, Dr. Chambers had Theo’s liver imaged with ultrasound. With that, the damage the sago had done to Theo’s liver finally came to light. Despite its ability to regenerate, the liver can withstand only so much damage. Theo’s liver had marked fibrosis (replacement of healthy tissue with fibrous, non-functioning tissue). He also had some fluid in his abdomen secondary to low proteins and a “leaky” liver.
Over the next few weeks, Theo’s abdomen continued to accumulate fluid. Dr. Chambers would drain his abdomen via abdominocentesis, but because of his damaged liver, the fluid always returned. One day, Theo didn’t want to come out of his crate and he didn’t want to eat. His gums were pale and his belly was bloated. Dr Chambers knew it was time. She and her family fed Theo brisket for dinner and breakfast (with whipped cream). And then they said goodbye to him in the most peaceful way possible.
Theo fought a tough battle, but despite early and aggressive, expert care, he died. He serves as an important reminder to keep all sago palms out of houses and yards where dogs live.
Exposure to the toxins in blue-green algae can be fatal within minutes. Blue-green algae (more properly called cyanobacteria) can be found in freshwater lakes, ponds, and brackish water but also in less obvious places, such as aquariums. Algae can be present throughout the year, but is found in higher concentrations in warmer months. Not all blue-green algae makes toxins, but you cannot determine that by looking. Thus, never allow dogs to swim in water with algal blooms.
Cyanobacteria can produce two primary types of toxins: anatoxins, which cause sudden death due to respiratory paralysis, and microcystins, which lead to liver failure. Symptoms of microcystin toxicity are similar to those of other liver toxins and include vomiting, diarrhea, lethargy, and lack of appetite. If blue-green algae ingestion is suspected, do not delay in seeking treatment. As with other toxins, it will center on supportive care, as there is no antidote.
Medications are a common source of deadly liver toxins. Several medications that are frequently used by humans have been implicated in canine liver failure. Acetaminophen can be used at safe levels in dogs. It is often used in oncology when combined with opioid medications to control cancer pain. Like any substance, the dose makes the poison. At high enough doses, acetaminophen can cause liver failure.
Carprofen, a common non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drug (NSAID) used for the treatment of pain, has been implicated in liver failure. Why some dogs develop this rare problem is unknown. Overall, carprofen is an extremely safe choice for pain control but, rarely, a dog will develop problems. This may be more common in Labrador Retrievers for unknown reasons.
Because of its reliance on the liver for metabolism, phenobarbital can lead to liver failure in some cases. This is a ubiquitous medication in veterinary medicine, used in the control of seizures. Dogs on phenobarbital will need monitoring of liver values, and if indications of hepatic damage occur, may be switched to a newer anti-seizure medication such as Keppra or zonisamide.
Acquired Liver Problems
Some liver ailments are acquired over time, not from an acute insult. Vacuolar hepatopathy is an age-related condition characterized by liver cells (called hepatocytes) that appear swollen and foamy under a microscope. Liver cells accumulate damage over a lifetime; when stressed, they respond by swelling and developing vacuoles – little fluid-filled cysts inside the liver cells themselves. This often results in an enlargement of the liver. This non-specific change can be insignificant or linked to a host of illnesses.
Some of the most common causes of vacuolar hepatopathy are long-term steroid use or chronic steroid overproduction (as in Cushing’s disease) and the use of phenobarbital for seizure control. The findings on bloodwork can be nonspecific but generally include an elevated ALP. If your dog is otherwise healthy and asymptomatic, your veterinarian may not be alarmed by this test result. However, if there are symptoms of illness, more testing is indicated.
The liver does develop cancers. The most common are hepatic adenocarcinoma and hemangiosarcoma. There may be no symptoms as liver cancer develops. Sometimes, a large liver tumor is found on routine examination or through senior bloodwork. This is the ideal situation. If found incidentally, many liver tumors can be successfully removed. Hepatic adenocarcinomas are often completely cured by removal, as they are slow to metastasize.
Hemangiosarcomas, in contrast, are much more aggressive tumors. They grow silently and then rupture. Often, they are discovered when a previously healthy, older dog collapses suddenly. Surgery will address the hemorrhage and remove the source of bleeding, but by the time they are discovered, these tumors have already spread. Surgery alone can yield up to three months of survival time, while adding chemotherapycan increase survival to six months to one year.
Liver Support for Dogs
There are many medications that your veterinarian may use to treat your dog’s liver disease. But there are also several good over-the-counter supplements that can help support a damaged and healing liver.
Denamarin and vitamin E have antioxidant effects in the liver, as well as some anti-inflammatory properties. Denamarin is a canine-specific product containing silymarin, an extract of milk thistle, which offers particularly good anti-inflammatory action. Vitamin E is a fat-soluble vitamin found in high concentrations within the liver. Both supplements can be used in addition to conventional medical treatments to support a damaged liver.
Turmeric has recently received increased attention for its anti-inflammatory effects in both human and veterinary medicine. While there are no large, controlled studies evaluating its efficacy, it is safe for use in dogs. A word of caution: Don’t buy from sketchy online sources or administer human products. Seek out a reputable veterinary product such as CurcuVet made by ThorneVet (available from Amazon and many veterinarians). Internal quality control is essential in finding a good product.
Whole Dog Journal is reader-supported. If you purchase through links on our site we may earn a commission.
If you’re not using treat-dispensing toys with your dog, you’re missing out on one of the greatest training inventions of the last 100 years – seriously!
These wonderful tools and toys can help you with a long list of dog-training and -management challenges, including boredom-busting, excessively fast eating, high-energy consumption, building mental skills, counter-conditioning, redirecting inappropriate behavior, and much more.
In the mid-1980s, when I acquired my first Australian Kelpie, food-stuffed toys were an unknown. A tennis ball was “the thing” – and Keli, my Kelpie, was quite addicted to hers. Then we discovered the Kong. Still perceived primarily as a fetch toy in those days, the hollow, snowman-shaped, hard, rubber toy delighted my dog with its high-flying unpredictable bounces. Almost as good as herding sheep! She switched her allegiance from ball to Kong.
Then one day Jean Donaldson – dog trainer, founder of the Academy for Dog Trainers, and book author extraordinaire, suggested stuffing treats in the Kong’s hollow interior in order to entertain otherwise bored dogs. The food-dispensing dog-toy revolution was on.
The market has expanded since those early days when the Kong Company pretty much had a food-toy monopoly. Or should I say exploded? Today your options include an almost endless variety of products that contain food that will entice and challenge your dog. These products encourage him to chew, lick, nudge, paw, and toss in order to find and reach the food.
We still love the basic Kong toy, as well as the variety of other toys made by Kong. But we have to admit, we also love many of Kong’s competitors in the food-stuffable toy category. In fact, there are so many it’s hard to even have favorites anymore! But at a minimum, we think you should be aware of how many options are available to you and your dog today, so you can select the ones that are best suited to your own dog’s needs and wants.
Snuffle Mats
It’s a simple concept: short pieces of fleece tied onto a flat plastic or rubber frame, creating a tufted surface, ideal for scattering or hiding kibble or treats. Originally, the snuffle mat was a takeoff on the idea of scattering a dog’s food in some grass, so it would take him a while to find and eat his meal.
When I first heard of snuffle mats, they were a do-it-yourself project. Not long after, I started seeing mats made by individuals and sold in a small cottage industry, and not long after that, the concept became quite commercialized. While you can still easily make a snuffle mat for your dog, you can also purchase several creative variations, with rubbery fingers instead of fleece tufts, fleece tufts of varying lengths and patterns, and activity mats that include pockets and other treat-finding challenges in addition to the tufts and fingers.
These mats can serve several different purposes. They are perfect for dogs who eat too quickly and are at constant risk of choking on a bowlful of unchewed food or inhaling bits of their food. Sniffing out and retrieving bits of food from the many mat crevices is guaranteed to slow down the most ravenous speed-eater.
Snuffle mats are also useful for keeping your dog occupied during events when she might otherwise get fussy. My dog Kai’s snuffle mat was a godsend while he impatiently waited his turn at agility class. The mat kept him calmly and happily searching for treats instead of barking from frustration and arousal at the sight of other dogs running the course.
The mats also may be used to keep your dog from getting bored when left alone (not recommended for a persistent or aggressive chewer!). Just load the mat, set it down for her in her “home-alone” space, and you’re good to go.
Some dogs, especially the gentler, less assertive ones, need a little help learning how to use the mat. You may need to start by dropping treats on top, rather than burying them deep in the mat. As your dog gets the idea, you can start pushing treats deeper and deeper into the tufts, until your dog really has to work to get them.
Benefits
Toss in the washing machine when they start getting sticky, stinky, or moldy; many can also be put in the dryer.
The dog gets to use her sense of smell, touch, and taste to find food.
Caution
Dogs can chew these up (and ingest them!). Do not leave your dog alone with a snuffle mat if she’s an aggressive chewer and/or prone to ingesting non-food items.
The snowman-shaped Kong toy is still around, of course, and is still a great choice for stuffing food into, as well as a fetch toy. While not indestructible, the black Kongs are very tough and a wise choice for the aggressive chewer. In fact, I still have the original black Kong that Keli happily chased some 30-plus years ago. It’s a little worse for wear, but it’s still here!
In addition to the classic red and black Kongs, the Kong Company also offers “puppy” Kongs in pink and blue that are a little softer and easier to chew.
Everyone knows the classic Kong toy. Recent variations require different work from from your pup – working treats out of grooves, squeezing, licking, and more.
Between Kong Company and their competitors (including Busy Buddy, Idepet, Trixie, and others), there is an almost endless list of food-stuffable toys of various shapes, colors, sizes, and materials. Some are grooved, inviting your dog to lick squeeze cheese or peanut butter from the grooves. Some are hollow, encouraging chewing more than licking. You can stuff your dog’s entire meal into a few hollow toys, and even freeze them, to slow down the fast eater and keep the bored dog occupied for a longer time. Our freezers almost always contain a few!
Benefits
Most are dishwasher safe.
Wide variety of products; novel products will keep your dog engaged.
Cautions
Some dogs have little interest in actively chewing to access treats and food. You may have to encourage yours, or choose a different type of food toy.
Dogs can chew these up (and ingest them!). Either select super-tough toys specifically designed for aggressive chewers or do not leave your dog alone with her food-stuffed toy if she’s an aggressive chewer.
Whole Dog Journal-Approved Fill-with-Food Toys
Busy Buddy’s Twist’n Treat, $7-$15, depending on size. Available in pet supply stores and online, or from its maker. (866) 738-4379
Kong, $7-$14, depending on size. See the entire line of classic Kong toys at the company website. Available for purchase in pet supply stores everywhere and online.
I call these products “push toys,” because dogs need to push and roll them around in order to get kibble to fall out of them. What they all have in common is a compartment that you can fill with kibble or other small, hard treats, and a hole for the treats to spill out off, provided the dog rolls it over and over.
The first product like this that I ever saw was the Buster Cube – a hard plastic cube with rounded corners and a hole on one side for the treats to spill out of. Omega Paw’s Tricky Treat Ball was similar, but made of a softer vinyl material that didn’t make such an ungodly racket as a dog rolled and bashed it around, making the food fall out a piece or two at a time.
Today, there are many variations of these kibble-dribbling toys, including those original products. Look for products that won’t spill all the goods too quickly, but aren’t so difficult to get food out of that your dog gives up in frustration. Another nice feature is the ability to open the toy in order to empty it completely every so often; you don’t want pieces of kibble to get stuck inside, grow moldy, and only then fall out and be eaten by your dog.
When choosing a kibble-dribbling toy, find one that won’t spill the treats out too quickly.
Kong came out with a product that we like a lot: the Kong Wobbler, which is shaped like the original Kong, but made of two hard plastic halves that screw together, making it incredibly easy to load with kibble or treats and open afterward for cleaning. The bottom half is weighted so that the toy rights itself after each push, which increases the interactive nature of the toy and makes it a bit more engaging than some of the other push toys. Our pot-bellied pig, Dexter, happily eats part of his meal from a Kong Wobbler!
Note that, depending on the level of difficulty, your dog may need to be taught how to use these toys. Roll or push it over several times so she can see the treat fall out (and eat it) each time. Encourage her to use her nose and/or paws to engage the toy until she realizes that she can make the treats appear.
Benefits
More interactive than most of these other products; playful dogs will particularly enjoy these.
Cautions
Because these toys are meant to be pushed or pawed around in order to dispense the treats, they are not necessarily able to withstand chewing (unlike the products mentioned in the previous category, which are designed to give up their food stuffing by being licked and chewed). These products would not be appropriate for dogs whose go-to tactic is to try to chew the food out of the toy. Dedicated chewers can damage, chew, and ingest pieces of these toys if they are so inclined.
Be aware! These toys can be very noisy, especially on hard floors.
Whole Dog Journal-Approved Kibble-Dribblers
Busy Buddy’s Kibble Nibble, $10-$18, depending on size. Available in pet supply stores and online, or from its maker. (866) 738-4379
Our Pets Buster Cube, $8-$19, depending on size. Available in pet supply stores and online.
Slow-Feeder Bowls
In contrast to the push-around toys, these products are designed to be stationary – though they, too, are meant to slow down speed eaters. Slow feeding is believed to decrease the potential for life-threatening choking or bloat, a not-uncommon problem in dogs who inhale their meals.
These products are usually grooved or have pegs in the bowl, requiring the dog to use her tongue to reach the food. They are often weighted and/or equipped with non-skid feet and a wide base to minimize spillage. They may not be quite as challenging as some of the other food-toy products, though this makes them a good choice for dogs who get easily discouraged and stop trying to get treats from the more difficult designs.
Benefits
These products work equally well for feeding dry food, wet food, raw frozen, or home-prepared.
Most are dishwasher-safe.
Cautions
The grooves in some designs can make these bowls difficult to wash without a dishwasher.
Most of these products are made for larger dogs; fewer models are available for small dogs.
Compared to some of the other food-dispensing toys, “licky-sticky” is a relatively new concept. This category describes products that are meant to be filled with a type of food that the dog can remove only by determined and prolonged licking, such as peanut butter, cream cheese, yogurt, baby food, or a pt-type canned food – and that are designed to be affixed to a stationary position (usually with suction cups).
Prior to the invention of these products, I’ve suggested to clients that they just smear cheese or peanut butter on the refrigerator door or shower wall. I can see how some might prefer this alternative!
The thing I like best about these is that they can keep your dog relatively immobile, happily occupied, and licking/eating, while you attend to a husbandry task that requires two hands, such as buckling a muzzle, bathing, grooming, taking a temperature, etc. That’s so useful that I actually squealed with delight the first time I saw one!
Because the dog can’t carry them off to enjoy in private, these are great for keeping him in one spot, without force or restraint.
The dog’s enjoyment of delicious treats may classically condition him to associate grooming (or whatever you are doing to him while he licks the food) with good things, making him more happier to cooperate and participate.
Cautions
These products may not be a good choice for a dog who has food-guarding behavior, unless and until behavior modification has been done.
If your dog is prone to chewing up toys, don’t leave him unattended with any of these products. Most are flexible and not durable, as they are meant for licking, not chewing.
Interactive toys have become very popular since they first appeared a decade or so ago – and with good reason. They make a dog work for her treats, with her brain as well as her body! Brain games are incredibly useful for keeping dogs mentally as well as physically healthy.
Swedish dog-toy designer Nina Ottosson started developing her line of interactive toys in 1990. Today, there are dozens of her products on the market, as well as many from other designers. Some are clear-cut imitators, others are quite innovative and original. All are guaranteed to provide dogs with fun and stimulation.
Benefits
These are fun for all dogs, but especially useful for helping to entertain and occupy senior, handicapped, or rehabilitating dogs who need to be kept calm.
Because most of these were designed to have the human interacting with the dog as the dog interacts with the toy, they are also good for relationship-building.
Some of these interactive toy puzzles are quite complex and challenging. Your dog may need some assistance, at least at first, to help her succeed and learn, and avoid frustration. Start with simpler toys and work up to the more challenging ones once she understands how the games are played.
The early Nina Ottosson toys were made of wood – easily chewed and hard to clean. More recent models are made of plastic; still some have small pieces that your dog can chew up if you are inattentive.
These toys are designed to be used under human supervision. Many of them are easily destroyed if left with your dog unattended.
Whole Dog Journal-Approved Interactive Toys
Nina Ottosson‘s dog puzzles, $10-$40. See complete line of products available on the company website. Available in pet supply stores and online.
Last, but by no means least, is a new generation of computerized electronic food-dispensing toys, giving a whole new look and feel to the treat-dispensing toy market.
The earliest products in this category allowed you use a remote control to release a treat to your dog at a distance from you. Next, they came with timers, so you could release meals or treats at pre-set or random intervals (helpful for preoccupying dogs with separation anxiety or isolation distress). Today, some allow your to dispense treats to (and sometimes, communicate with) your dog from remote locations, via an app on your phone or computer!
Many dog owners and trainers are fascinated with the technology. Some products can be set to beep randomly to signal to your dog that a treat is coming, and some will actually take pictures of your dog as she arrives to eat the treat.
I will confess I’m a technology troglodyte and am pretty intimidated by these products! But I do love the remote treat-dispenser function that allows you to signal to your dog the opportunity for a treat from 50 to 500 feet away, depending on the brand. This type of toy has many helpful applications, such as when visitors arrive, you can use its function to move your dog away from the door (as he runs to get his treats from the machine that you have set up elsewhere). Other training and management applications include situations where you want the dog to go to her bed, move away from begging at the table, stop obsessing over squirrels or UPS trucks outside, and more.
Benefits
Brilliant for engaging dogs who are easily bored when left home alone. Anticipation of random treats can keep the canine brain engaged and out of trouble.
Surveillance features (still camera, one-or two-way audio, video, and/or live-stream monitoring), ease owner anxieties about home-alone dogs, too.
Cautions
The remote treat-dispensing function can potentially cause problems in a multi-dog household, especially if there is competition for resources. Be careful!
Some of the fancier high-tech products require a fair amount of Internet bandwidth to function. If you are on satellite/limited bandwidth, they may not work or be optimal for you.
You do need to be somewhat tech-savvy – or have access to someone who is – to figure some of this stuff out!
These can be quite pricey.
Whole Dog Journal-Approved Electronic Treat Dispensers
Furbo Dog Camera, $210. Dispenses treats via phone app; also takes video and allows two-way audio.
PetCube Bites, $249. HD pet camera that allows you to monitor and talk to your dog and fling treats via app.(888) 447-2522
As you can see, there are many options for teaching your dog to play with her food. A list of examples of products in each category appears on page 22. Find the ones that are likely to appeal to her – and to you – and get started!
You would think that a bee sting or two would be aversive enough to convince a dog to give flying, stinging creatures a wide berth. Would that it were so.
But just like a good skunking doesn’t stop most dogs from going after those black-and-white critters again the next time (darn it!), there are many dogs who seem goaded into more intense bee-chasing behavior after an unfortunate encounter of the stinging kind. Conversely, there are also dogs who become literally phobic about all small, flying creatures after a stinging incident. Then there are those who develop an obsessive-compulsive behavior known as fly-snapping when there are no flying insects present at all. (See “Fly-Snapping: Not Really About Flies,” below.)
For a class of insects vital to our survival through their pollination efforts, bees (and their nastier cousins, wasps) can sure wreak havoc with our dogs’ behavior.
It’s understandable how hovering insects can be annoying – or intriguing – to a dog. We humans don’t like small flying creatures in our faces either, but we learn fairly early in life that some are more wisely respected than harassed. I may swat a fly, but I earned the nickname “bee whisperer” at a recent trainer academy when I gently escorted several wasps out of the training center with a plastic cup and a piece of cardboard.
In contrast, dogs are more likely to snap at the buzzing annoyances and end up with a painful (and possibly deadly) sting to the face. So, what do you do about a dog who has risky or inappropriate bee- or wasp-related behavior? Why, beehavior modification, of course!
Bee chasers are at greatest risk for injury as they run after and snap at the little buzzers. But bee-phobic dogs also may have significant quality-of life issues, as bees can cause them to shut down, tremble uncontrollably, and even run away in panic – and their fear behavior is sometimes generalized to other flying insects as well.
Situational Management for Dogs with Bee Issues
To change those behaviors, as with most behavior modification programs, we start with management. There are a variety of ways to deter and discourage bees from congregating in and around your home.
A Google search will give you a number of options for non-toxic bee and wasp repellents. I particularly like this recipe:
Fill an empty spray bottle with water, nearly to the top. Add a few teaspoons of liquid dish soap; this will help the next ingredients will dissolve and evenly distribute in the mixture. Add a few drops of peppermint essential oil – enough so that you can readily smell it when you spray the mixture. Then add ⅛ teaspoon each of cinnamon and cayenne pepper and shake well.
Once you’ve mixed the repellent, spray away, in any place where you want to repel flying insects. Indoors, mist lightly on windowsills and door frames to discourage winged intruders. Outdoors, you can spray on the underside of patio tables, chairs, and shade umbrellas (to prevent patio users from touching the slightly sticky spray).
Additionally, there are a number of plants you can grow that help to repel bees and wasps, including cucumber, basil, geraniums, marigolds, citronella, and mint.
Conversely, there are plants that attract bees. Make sure not to plant these, or else plant them far enough away from your home that they are inviting the bees away from the areas where your dog spends time. Some of the plants that are particularly attractive to bees include bee balm, blackeyed susan, goldenrod, butterly bush, purple coneflower, lavender, roses, sunflowers, and salvia.
I discovered the value of using an attractant to lure wasps away from my dog-training area after I was stung on my ring finger by a yellowjacket when I was teaching outdoor classes in Santa Cruz, California. (Quick, get the ring off before the finger swells!) We used a lot of meaty treats in the class, and yellowjackets are carnivorous – they love meat. I learned to open a can of smelly cat food before each class and place it on a picnic table some distance from the training yard. Problem solved.
You might also consult a professional about other ways to remove bees and wasps (and their nests) from the area around your home. Just remember, for your own dog’s safety and the health of our planet, make sure your professionals use non-toxic methods for bee and wasp removal and deterrence.
Fly-Snapping: Not Really About Flies
Fly-snapping is one of several obsessive-compulsive disorders (OCDs) that occasionally occur in dogs. This behavior is not about snapping at real flies (or bees, or wasps). Rather, the dog appears to be snapping at imaginary flies, or hallucinations. There are several possible explanations for the behavior:
There is a strong genetic component. Certain breeds of dogs, including the Bull Terrier, the Bernese Mountain Dog, and the Cavalier King Charles Spaniel, are afflicted with fly-snapping at a much higher rate than many other breeds.
It may be a digestive issue. There does appear to be a correlation between fly-snapping and significant digestive disorder, especially when the snapping is directed downward to toward the dog’s sides rather than up in the air. A 2012 study (“Prospective Medical Evaluation of Seven Dogs Presented with Fly Biting“) found gastrointestinal issues in all of the seven dogs examined for the study.
It may be neurological or seizure-related. One theory holds that fly-snapping results from focal seizures – where only a specific part of the brain is affected, hence the absence of what we normally identify as “seizure” activity.
Some cases of fly-snapping can be successfully resolved with early behavioral intervention. Since OCDs are often triggered by stress, stress reduction and removal can be effective.
The first fly-snapping case I saw was a young Bernese Mountain Dog who had just begun the behavior. Stress reduction, increase in enrichment, and removal of any attention for the snapping behavior successfully eliminated the snapping. The three-year-old Cavalier King Charles Spaniel I met who had been snapping since the age of six months was not so fortunate – she ended up having to be medicated for the rest of her life.
If you think your dog is fly-snapping – get some professional help!
Behavior Modification for Bee-Obsessed Dogs
So, what is it that’s reinforcing the bee-chaser’s behavior? If you have a dog who is captivated by movement (think herding dogs, hunting dogs, and terriers), it may simply be that the behavior is driven by the genetic propensity to be reinforced by the opportunity to run after (and perhaps capture) things that move – sheep, cows, squirrels, rabbits, and yes, bees. These are the dogs who seem to think bee-chasing is a fun game. Alternatively, it could a strong emotional response because bees cause pain. These are the dogs who have probably been stung in the past, and seem angry or unhappy when they snap at and chase after the annoying, stinging creatures. In both cases, your goal is to change your dog’s behavior in the presence of the flying bugs.
Of course, the bee-fearful dog’s behavior also needs to be modified. Fear is a more normal and far safer behavior in the presence of bees – but what I’m talking about here are the dogs who are so fearful they cannot function.
While I normally begin with counter-conditioning (changing the association with the stimulus – in this case, the bee) for fear-related behaviors, for severe fear of bees, I suggest an “operant” approach, due to the difficulty in controlling the intensity of stimulus (the number, proximity, and predictability of the bees).
Note: If your dog has very strong fear-reactions to bees and wasps and/or behavior modification doesn’t help, we urge you to consult a veterinarian who is knowledgeable about behavior or a veterinary behaviorist. You can also ask your veterinarian to do a phone consult with a veterinary behaviorist to determine if medication is appropriate, and if so, what kind. Your dog needs help!
Start by teaching your dog an incompatible behavior – something the dog can’t do at the same time as chasing bees. It also should be something that your dog comes to love so much that when a bee appears you can cue your dog to perform (and get reinforced for!) and she will be consistently thrilled to do the behavior. This could be chasing a ball, finding treats dropped at your feet, targeting to your hand, lying down on a mat, or doing a trick. You can select one specific behavior and teach her to automatically offer that behavior when a bee appears, or you can choose to cue any one of several behaviors that she dearly loves.
This is likely to be easier with dogs who are happy chasers than with the ones who are angry chasers or fearful bee-avoiders, as anger and fear are stronger emotions to overcome. But with good training it can be accomplished with all of them.
How to Distract Your Dog from Bees
1. Select one behavior to start with (you can add more later if you want). If your dog already has a behavior she loves, use that. Just be sure it’s one that elicits a happy dance when you cue her to do it. Or pick a new behavior that you think will succeed in making her eyes light up.
2. Begin training the behavior in the total absence of all bees. Make it a fun game, with lots of play reinforcement as well as treats.
3. When she is delighted about having you ask her to do the behavior, generalize it to a variety of environments with a wide variety of distractions (but no bees yet!), until she is just as focused and engaged anywhere.
4. Now comes the hard part. Because we can’t control the bees, and realistic-looking remote-controlled bees are not readily available, we can’t control the intensity of stimulus as well as we would like. Ideally, you would find a location where a very occasional bee will buzz past at a distance close enough to be noticed, but not in your dog’s face.
Be careful! If the bee comes too close while you’re asking her to do her incompatible behavior, you could give her a negative association with the behavior and undo all your hard work!
As soon as she notices the bee, ask your dog for her “bee happy” behavior. Repeat until the bee is gone. Or, if it looks as though the bee is going to buzz around for a while, or if your dog looks at all worried or aroused, move away from the area as you ask for the incompatible, happy behavior.
5. Continue to practice this in a low bee-intensity area, until your dog automatically looks to you or offers her happy bee-behavior when she sees a bee. While you have operantly taught her a happy bee-behavior, you also have changed her classical association with the presence of a bee: “Bees make the opportunity for my fun behavior happen!”
6. Now move closer to where more bees congregate. If your dog can perform and still have fun in this area, you’re good. If not, you need a location with fewer bees, and/or need to be farther away. Be careful!
7. Next try it in a higher-density bee environment. Again, if your dog can still perform and be happy, you’re good. If not, you need fewer bees and/or need to be farther away.
8. When your dog’s happy response is well established in the presence of bees in reasonably close proximity, very gradually reduce your cueing of the behavior. First, wait a few seconds before you cue it, then wait longer, and occasionally don’t ask for it at all. You will still (and forever) continue to cue the behavior sometimes when the two of you are in the presence of bees. But your goal is to have your dog so well programmed that she won’t revert to bee chasing even if you’re not there to ask for her happy bee behavior.
“Bee” Smart
Remember that your dog’s undesirable behavior around bees can easily resurface if you forget to keep practicing her be-happy behavior(s) in the presence of flying, stinging buzzers. Continue to use good bee-management practices so our honey-producing, plant-pollinating friends (and their not-so-helpful cousins, the wasps) keep their distance from your canine pal.
This poor dog was stung by a bee in the eye. Causing some pretty worrying swelling. However, with proper care and attention he will be okay.
Spring is springing forth all over the country. Flowers, grasses, and trees are blooming, and the pollinators are out in force. This is great news for plants, and less great news for our canine friends. Dogs are more prone to being stung by insects than we are, given that they aren’t always aware that some of the buzzing, flying insects they love to chase can hurt! A dog stung by a bee can be scary, but care will ensure your dog will be okay.
The most likely sting suspects are the Hymenoptera species, which include bees, wasps, hornets, and fire ants. As an emergency veterinarian, I often treated dogs who suffered bee and wasp stings, with reactions ranging from very mild localized swelling and pain to anaphylactic shock. These symptoms were sometimes caused by a direct sting to the muzzle or paw, but in some cases, they occurred when a dog ingested a bee! It’s important to know what is normal and what is not when this happens.
The typical dog bee stinging event leaves the dog with a single sting on the muzzle or foot. This is because of dogs’ horizontal, four-footed orientation and their innate curiosity. The feet often find the insects when running through the grass, and the curious muzzle will follow.
What to Do If Your Dog Gets Stung
In the case of most stings, there will be very mild redness and swelling. Your dog may suddenly limp and/or favor a paw, or have a red, swollen spot on the face. In some cases, a stinger can still be found in the wound. This is extremely difficult to find without a still, calm dog and a magnifying glass. In some cases, removal of a stinger must be done at a veterinary office. You can try to visualize and remove it at home, but it may not be possible.
Initial treatment for a sting or bite of this severity can consist of rest and a cold compress to relieve swelling and pain. Do not administer over-the-counter medications; these are generally not safe for dogs. If you are concerned that your dog is in significant pain, contact your veterinarian to discuss a pain-management strategy.
Hives, wheals, and welts are a moderate reaction to stings. Just like their human counterparts, dogs who have been stung can break out in unsightly hives. These are usually very itchy and uncomfortable. The first sign often noticed is the dog rubbing along furniture or scratching at the face and eyes. The hives may manifest as bright red streaks or lumps all over the body or be confined to a single place.
As long as there is no attendant vomiting, diarrhea, weakness, or collapse, this can be managed at home successfully. Diphenhydramine (the active ingredient in Benadryl) can be given at 1 to 2 milligrams per pound of body weight. If using a Benadryl product, check to make sure there are NO other active ingredients. Some Benadryl products contain decongestants as well, and these can be dangerous for dogs.
Diphenhydramine can be repeated every six to eight hours as needed to help with hives. They can sometimes take hours to a few days to completely resolve. Diphenhydramine can cause drowsiness, but in some dogs, it can cause excitement (called a paradoxical reaction).
Severe Bee Sting Reactions in Dogs
In the most severe cases, dogs can develop anaphylactic shock. In canines, the shock organ is the gastrointestinal (GI) tract (in contrast to cats and humans, in which it is the lungs). Dogs in anaphylactic shock do not necessarily develop difficulty breathing. They are much more likely to develop sudden onset of vomiting, diarrhea, and collapse. The diarrhea and vomit can both be extremely bloody, in some cases.
This is an absolute emergency and should be treated as such. Once evaluated by a veterinarian, your dog will be treated with intravenous (IV) fluids, epinephrine, possibly steroids, oxygen, and very close monitoring. Diagnostic testing will likely include blood pressure monitoring, bloodwork, and maybe an abdominal ultrasound.
Dreamstime
Often, when dogs are stung, it is not witnessed, so it can be difficult to determine the cause of the signs. Anaphylaxis can also look like an Addisonian crisis; severe, acute hemorrhagic gastroenteritis (HGE); or mesenteric volvulus. One helpful test is the abdominal ultrasound. Gallbladder wall swelling (edema) can be used to determine if anaphylaxis is the true cause of the signs. Another indicator is that anaphylaxis is a very sudden onset in a previously healthy dog that has just been outside.
With rapid and aggressive treatment, most dogs will recover from this type of shock, but early treatment is essential. In some cases, your veterinarian may recommend carrying an EpiPen Jr for future outdoor travels with your dog. Despite having this on hand, any suspicion of an anaphylactic event should prompt immediate evaluation by your veterinarian.
When Your Dog Suffers Multiple Bee Stings
Initial symptoms in dogs include multiple bites, marked pain and swelling, hyperthermia (temperature can elevate to a deadly 107 degrees), heavy panting, rapid heart rate, and in some cases, muscle tremoring.
There is no antidote, so treatment is aimed at supportive care. This must be aggressive, as dogs can later develop systemic effects such as kidney failure. The kidney failure develops due to generalized muscle trauma from the stings and hyperthermia. When the muscle is damaged, extra myoglobin (a muscle enzyme) is released into the bloodstream. This must be metabolized by the kidneys, and excess amounts can cause renal damage. This will lead to a dark brown color to urine and elevated blood urea nitrogen (BUN) and creatinine.
Treatment is centered on maintaining hydration with IV fluids, pain relief medications (generally strong drugs like opioids), and close monitoring of vitals and bloodwork. NSAIDs like carprofen and meloxicam should be avoided due to the risk of kidney failure.
A different and less-common scenario is a sting to the inside of the mouth or the tongue. These stings can be more severe because of the amount of pain and swelling. In rare cases, swelling in the mouth could lead to airway inflammation, obstruction, and labored breathing. While this isn’t common, it can happen. If you know that your dog was stung in the mouth or on the tongue, monitor closely for any signs of respiratory distress. These include wheezing or other noisy breathing, coughing, and difficulty pulling air into the lungs (inspiratory dyspnea). Seek veterinary care!
In these cases, your dog may need to receive respiratory support. This might include an oxygen mask, nasal oxygen prongs, or in serious cases, where the upper airway is obstructed, the placement of an emergency tracheostomy tube. This allows the veterinarian to bypass the swollen upper airway and provide the patient with life-saving oxygen. These are temporary and will be removed when the swelling has resolved enough to allow normal respiration.
Most reactions to bee stings are mild, but it is important to recognize the more severe symptoms so that immediate treatment can be started and systemic effects minimized.
What About Killer Bees?
A special note about Africanized killer bees should be made. These are a hybrid of two honeybees: the western honey bee and the Iberian honey bee. They were hybridized in Brazil in the 1950s with hopes of increasing honey production. Unfortunately, swarms escaped quarantine and migrated through Central America and into the Southwest and Florida. These bees are still largely isolated to those areas, but with global temperatures in flux, they can be expected to spread.
Unlike the usually docile honey bee, these bees can be very easily aggravated and aggressive and even chase victims. When annoyed, they tend to attack in large swarms. Interestingly, the venom is the same as other honey bees, which are rarely fatal. It is the multiple stings that can be fatal for animals and humans.
Catherine Ashe, DVM, practiced emergency medicine for nine years and now works as an associate veterinarian at Skyland Animal Hospital in Asheville, N.C.
Dogs get hiccups. Who knew, right? It turns out that this is a fairly common occurrence, especially in puppies. But what causes dog hiccups, and are there ever cases in which they actually indicate a medical problem?
Hiccups are defined by Merriam-Webster as a “spasmodic inhalation with closure of the glottis accompanied by a peculiar sound.” They occur when the diaphragm – the membranous divider of the abdomen from the thorax – spasms. The diaphragm receives its nerve supply from the phrenic nerve, which is a large, important nerve originating from the cervical (neck) spinal cord. The phrenic nerve receives information from and transmits information to the diaphragm, assisting in respiration.
If the phrenic nerve is immature (as in puppies) or becomes irritated (as in adults), then hiccups can result.
Does Your Puppy Get Hiccups?
Puppy hiccups are generally not a concern. As with human babies, puppies will hiccup in utero and after birth. This is because the phrenic nerve and diaphragm haven’t finished maturing and are easily stimulated. As puppies age, they should grow out of it. According to the Veterinary Information Network (VIN), most will no longer have these bouts of hiccups after about 4 months of age, although some can persist up to 6 months. If a puppy has hiccups and they are lasting a long time or seem irritating, you can attempt to place the pup on their back and roll them gently side-to-side a couple of times. Sometimes, this will stop the spasm.
Adult Dog Hiccups
Hiccups are much less common in older dogs, as the phrenic nerve and diaphragm are mature and less easily irritated. As with any scenario, a change in a dog’s normal health status should be evaluated by a trusted veterinarian. If your dog suddenly starts to develop frequent bouts of hiccups, a vet visit is in order.
Your veterinarian will gather a thorough history—asking details about when the problem started, how long the bouts last, and if anything seems to trigger it. Afterwards, a physical examination will be conducted. This includes vital signs, a weight, and examination of the major systems—skin, heart and lungs, lymph nodes, the orthopedic system, and the abdominal organs. If no abnormalities are found, your veterinarian may recommend simple observation at home. This might include recording the episode over the course of several days. Several different conditions may mimic hiccups including focal seizures, reverse sneezing, or reflux disease. A recording will help your veterinarian identify what is happening.
iStock / Getty Images Plus/ Iryna Kazlova
X-rays of the abdomen and chest might also be recommended. Since hiccups originate from phrenic nerve/diaphragm irritability, anything causing pressure on the diaphragm (from inside the chest or the abdomen) could lead to them. X-rays may help identify a cause.
If they do not, your veterinarian will likely take a wait-and-see approach. Chronic hiccups in humans have been linked to a host of disorders including lesions found in the central nervous system, pericarditis (inflammation of the sac around the heart), cancers of the neck, chest, and abdomen, and electrolyte abnormalities. This doesn’t necessarily correlate to dogs, but it is helpful information to have if further investigation is pursued. Case reports of dogs with chronic hiccups are rare, so it is hard to know if they are medically significant. In most cases, they are likely not.
There is no real treatment for hiccups. Some home remedies include the rolling technique described above and putting a teaspoon of sugar on the back of the tongue. Whether these work or not has not been thoroughly investigated.
As always, when in doubt, check in with your veterinarian for advice!
I have been trying to think of what to write in this week’s blog post all day, and while there are any number of topics running through my head, there are so many different things requiring my attention at the moment, I haven’t been able to think any single topic all the way through! So once again I will just update you about a few things.
Foster Dog Odin
Last Friday, I took Odin back to the UC Davis Veterinary Medical Teaching Hospital (VMTH) for the in-depth eye exams he would need to participate in a study on a drug treating corneal endothelial dystrophy. The exams were meant to serve as the baseline for his eye condition before we started treating his troubled left eye with the medicine that the faculty veterinary ophthalmologist will be studying.
The technicians who conducted the tests were completely charmed by the little guy; he’s the youngest dog they are working with for the studies (and I hope, one of the best behaved).
Odin had the following procedures:
Pachymetry
A pachymeter is a medical device used to measure the thickness of the cornea. His right (unaffected) eye has a quite normal thickness. The cornea of his affected left eye is about twice as thick as it should be.
Corneal Confocal Biomicroscopy
This powerful tool produces images of individual corneal epithelial cells. Certain eye diseases cause these cells to malfunction, and the change in their shape and size can indicate some of these conditions. The technicians got beautiful images of the cells in Odin’s right eye, but the tool couldn’t produce good images of these cells in the affected eye; the cornea is just too thick.
This is an imaging tool that captures high-resolution, cross-sectional images of the anterior segment of the eye – and this was the tool that finally enabled a terrific representation of Odin’s troubled cornea.
The OCT revealed some sort of strange bubble in the left eye – a place where the two innermost layers of the cornea (the endothelium and Descemet’s membrane) have separated. Though we’ve been mystified from the very onset of Odin’s eye trouble as to its cause, and a number of things have been proposed, the faculty vet’s current thought is the eye suffered an injury that triggered some overreactions. This veterinarian actually used the same tool to examine Odin’s eye on his very first visit to the VMTH, about a week after the original onset of his eye problem, and this bubble or separation was not seen at that time.
So, the news is sort of mixed. He doesn’t actually have the exact condition the Japanese medicine is being tested for (corneal endothelial dystrophy) – but on the other hand, the vet thinks the medicine might help, and certainly can’t hurt. So he’s not going to be officially enrolled in the study – but, generously, she is going to continue to follow his case, and provide more examinations to see if the medicine (along with the other medications we’re using to treat the eye) make an improvement. In Japan, where the medicine is already approved, it has been found to be able to reduce corneal thickness, haziness, and edema, and promote corneal endothelial cell proliferation. All of those actions may well help Odin’s eye.
And she assured me that she would discuss his case with some human ophthalmologists to see what else they would recommend (besides a corneal transplant, which is certainly what would be recommended if Odin was a well-insured human patient).
Disaster Training for Animal Advocates
On Saturday, I attended a training session conducted by the North Valley Animal Disaster Group (NVADG), as part of my increased interest in improving any future local disaster response. This session was about handling dogs and cats in an emergency – something I got a lot of experience with when volunteering in the emergency evacuation shelters during the Camp Fire disaster. And it was held at the shelter where I have been volunteering for the past decade, so that was fun.
I didn’t learn anything new about handling dogs but did learn a few tips and tricks for handling stressed cats. Mostly, I was very pleasantly surprised by the turnout at the training event; I’d say there were at least 80 people present – all potential new volunteers in case of another disaster. I’m looking forward to a training session scheduled for next month, which is supposed to train volunteers for managing a small animal emergency shelter. It’s that operation that I felt most critical of during the Camp Fire, so I’m eager to see what training is provided, and where suggestions for improvements might best be directed.
Otto’s Turn for Medical Attention
On Monday, it was my senior dog Otto’s turn for more medical tests. Otto has been drinking tons of water, and the first round of tests, blood panels and urine tests came back without telling us a lot more than we already knew. His blood results looked great, and his urine actually looked good, too, except for the fact that it’s consistently more dilute than it ought to be. My veterinarian suggested that the next step in the investigation should be an ultrasound, to check on the size and condition of his kidneys and other organs.
The ultrasound found two abnormalities: a small mass on Otto’s liver, and another small mass situated somewhere near his spleen and pancreas… But his kidneys looked fine. The speculation is that something – perhaps one of the masses? – is causing a hormonal change that is causing the kidneys to not work properly. She recommended a fine needle aspiration (FNA) of the masses, guided by the ultrasound, so we could send them out to be cultured, in hopes of learning more about what they are comprised of. I get those results tomorrow. The next step might be a CT scan, again, in order to learn more about these abnormalities, or, depending on what we learn from the cultures of the tissue sample, surgery.
More Camp Fire Follow-Up
More than a month ago, I saw a Facebook post from a researcher who, using a grant from the National Science Foundation, wanted to interview people who were involved in the animal rescues/sheltering from the Camp Fire disaster, for a project described this way:
“The NSF Pets Project is a research project prompted by evacuations during Hurricanes Harvey and Irma. The two lead investigators are Dr. Sarah DeYoung at the University of Georgia (UGA) and Dr. Ashley Farmer at Illinois State University.
“Our main research aim is to identify social and organizational factors that affect the effectiveness of pet evacuation in disasters. Findings from these data may be used to influence future practices and policies related to animal welfare in disasters.”
I said, sign me up! I’m thrilled that someone is working on a project that could improve practices and policies in future disasters. So on Wednesday, I got to meet with Dr. DeYoung and several UGA students, who came to Chico, California, for several days of interviews. Dr. DeYoung has also studied “decision-making for companion animals during the evacuations caused by disasters” including our California wildfires (both local to me and in other parts of California); Hurricanes Harvey, Irma, and Florence; as well as the lava flows in Hawaii. I look forward to following her research – and, I hope, helping publicize any helpful recommendations for improving emergency animal evacuations.
My Next Moves
Next week I’ll be attending the Global Pet Expo, supposedly the pet industry’s largest annual trade show with more than 3,500 booths. I’ve never been to this particular show, which is held in Orlando, Florida; the next largest show (SuperZoo) has always seemed plenty big. At this show, however, I’m hoping to spend most if not all of my time with representatives of pet food companies – in particular, gathering information about the pet food industry’s response to the reports of a spike in cases of dilated cardiomyopathyin dogs.
On more than one occasion, people have asked me if my dog is autistic. Charlotte, a former street dog, has behavioral special needs, and I’ve lost track of how many people have asked upon meeting her, “Is she ever going to be normal?”
I like to use these moments as chances to open up conversation about neurodiversity in dogs: some experience trauma and anxiety and need behavioral management, and not all dogs process trauma the same way. My dog Charlotte has come a long way. She has psychiatric medications that help her with some of her largest triggers, daily training, and behavioral management that all work to give her an enriching, high-quality life.
Though Charlotte’s behavioral challenges are probably due to her growing up on the streets, these conversations always get me thinking, “can dogs be autistic?” The expert opinion is…maybe.
Does Autism Exist in Dogs?
Dr. Valli Parthasarathy, PhD, DVM, ACVB Resident and co-founder of Synergy Behavior Solutions in Portland, Oregon,explains that at this time autism is not a behavioral condition recognized in dogs. This is in part because there has not yet been enough research into the typical and atypical behavior in dogs for that kind of diagnosis to be given.
Dr. Parthasarathy went on to explain that in the future this may change, and there is a possibility we could see diagnoses of autism in dogs. “As we are learning more about the complexities of canine neurology, behavior and neurodiversity, the more information there is to help dogs. As we learn more, we may be able to start more finely characterizing different behavioral disorders. We may find that autism is a condition in dogs as it is in people.”
Research on Autism in Dogs
Although autism is not at this time something dogs can receive a diagnosis for, there is research being done into autism-like behaviors in dogs.
Dr. Parthasarathy explains, “According to the Mayo Clinic website, children with autism have two key characteristics: difficulty with social interactions and communication, and repetitive behaviors.”
Studies have observed comparable behavior in dogs. “For example, recently Tufts Veterinary Behaviorist Nick Dodman presented a study in which he assessed the behavior of 132 English Bull Terriers and found patterns of repetitive behavior (tail chasing), trancelike behavior, and episodic aggression similar to what can be seen in autistic children,” continues Dr. Parthasarathy.
Getty IMages / Alona Rjabceva
Is Your Dog Autistic?
If you have wondered if your dog might be autistic, you aren’t alone. A variety of behavioral challenges exhibited by dogs may be interpreted by their guardians as a form of autism. Dr. Parthasarathy explains, “When my clients ask me about whether their dogs are autistic, they are often referring to dogs that are not responsive to doing what they ask, and dogs that appear to become overstimulated in new environments, are performing repetitive behaviors or may be aggressive.”
A medical condition is always a possible underlier when dogs experience severe behavioral issues like aggression or obsessive licking. Canine compulsive disorder is another possible explanation for your dog’s challenges. At one time, dogs who exhibited repetitive, compulsive habits were thought to have obsessive-compulsive disorder (OCD), but experts in the animal behavior community have since identified the condition in dogs to be distinctly separate from that found in people.
Again, autism is not yet a diagnosis that can be given to dogs. Autism-like symptoms such as repetitive behavior or episodic aggression can be very challenging for dog guardians to understand and safely manage in the home, and it may be tempting to put the autism label on a dog if it fits. But Dr. Parthasarathy explains that a detailed history of the dog is essential for professionals to come up with a diagnosis. “Many of my patients who present to me with these signs have underlying generalized anxiety that needs to be addressed,” she says.
Dogs who have anxiety disorders may exhibit symptoms that their owners interpret as autism and diagnose themselves. But in reality, “anxiety in general can affect a dog’s ability to learn, problem-solve, retain and recall information,” describes Dr. Parthasarathy.
What to Do if Your Dog Shows Signs of Autism
If you think that your dog might be autistic, or if your dog is displaying behaviors that seem to be the result of an autism-like condition, it’s a good idea to make an appointment with your primary care veterinarian. Dr. Parthasarathy explains that many conditions related to orthopedic, neurologic, gastrointestinal and dermatological issues can result in dogs being unresponsive to cues, or exhibiting trance-like, excessive sensitivity or repetitive behaviors.
If your veterinarian rules out any physical conditions, they may refer you to a veterinary behavior diplomate or resident for diagnosis and treatment. “Treatment for these behavioral conditions can be complex and may involve the use of behavioral medications as well as a comprehensive management and behavior modification plan,” explains Dr. Parthasarathy.
Getty Images / Hartmut Kosig
There are fewer than 100 behavioral diplomats or residents in the United States, so this isn’t an option available to all dog owners depending on where you live. Many canine behavior experts are able and willing to consult with primary proactive veterinarians to support individual patients, however.
Dr. Parthasarathy also advised it’s a good idea to begin working with a positive reinforcement, reward-based trainer. Find a trainer who has experience working with dogs who have behavioral concerns; a good trainer should be part of the treatment team for any dog who may be exhibiting autism-like behaviors. Correcting or punishing unwanted behaviors in dogs with severe behavioral problems can actually make the problem worse or cause other new problem behaviors to arise.
There aren’t any fast answers for working with dogs who have what might be considered autism-like behaviors. Dr. Parthasarathy cautions that, “dogs with behavioral disorders are not trying to be ‘stubborn’, ‘dominant’, or trying to ‘get away’ with things. People who live with these dogs are generally doing the best that they can. Having compassion for dogs with problem behavior, as well as their people, is an important step towards helping them.”
If you think your dog might be autistic, the most important thing is to love your dog, and commit to finding professional support to meet your dog where they are at this stage in their development. Be gentle with your dog and yourself. Just like we are getting better at accepting neurodiversity in people, I hope that as a society we will grow to understand that not all dogs experience and react to the world in the same ways.
If your dog has been diagnosed with a joint disease such as arthritis, then you’re probably no stranger to the world of joint supplements for dogs. Just visit your local pet store, and you will see that options abound. The choices can be confusing. There are chews, powders, and even diets that claim to improve canine joint disease. But which of these supplements are legitimate, and how can you tell?
The simple answer is that it can be difficult. Most of the supplements available for canine joint disease lack evidence-based medicine to support use. Most supplements are based on anecdotal evidence or studies in vitro (in a laboratory rather than in “real life”). Below is a list of common supplements for dogs with joint pain.
A List of Joint Supplements for Dogs:
Glucosamine chondroitin
Perhaps the most used supplement, GC was popularized because of its application in human medicine. Glucosamine and chondroitin are sourced from sea life (lobsters, crabs, and shrimp). Together, they are theorized to inhibit breakdown of the joint and have mild anti-inflammatory effects. Studies have not shown marked improvement in dogs with joint disease, but these products are safe and without significant side effects. As a result, they are frequently recommended as an adjunctive treatment. Cosequin is a labeled veterinary product with some published data. Keep in mind, it is always important to evaluate who did the study and why.
Fish oil
Fish oil can be tricky! They are an excellent source of fatty acids, which are critical for canine health. Dogs cannot synthesize enough of their own, so fatty acids must be supplemented through diet. Deficiencies can lead to coat, skin, joint, and reproductive problems. Usually, supplementation is accomplished through using an AAFCO- and WSAVA-approved dog food. Recently, the dog food market has been flooded with boutique brands that do not necessarily adhere to these testing and recommendation guidelines. So choosing a diet carefully and with veterinary assistance is imperative.
Fish oil may improve joint health, although as with many of these products, strong evidence is lacking. If you choose to use a fish oil product, consult with your veterinarian first! A reduction or change in food may be required, as some diets are very rich in fatty acids. This can lead to inadvertent weight gain and possible toxicity. Fish oil capsules are also hard to dose in large dogs because of the relatively small amount found in capsules.
iStock / Getty Images Plus/ PicturePartners
Green-lipped mussels (Perna canaliculus)
While the name is attention-grabbing, GLMs are not new to the treatment of arthritis. Like their GC cousins, these medications are derived from sea creatures. Most studies have not shown much difference between placebo and GLMs, but there is a veterinary approved product with good oral absorption called Glycoflex. Research papers on this product are available at www.vetriscience.com.
Turmeric (curcumin) and Boswellia serrata
Phytotherapy (“plant medicine”) is as old as humankind. Turmeric is a powerful spice and has recently received a great deal of attention in human medicine. It is considered a strong anti-inflammatory and antioxidant. Studies in veterinary medicine are lacking, but it is safe to use (in a veterinary product) and may prove a useful adjunct. Because it has poor oral bioavailability, look for veterinary specific products such as Dasuquin Advanced, Synovi-G4, and Curcuvet.
In humans, Boswellia serrata (frankincense) has excellent evidence for reduction of pain and improved function in arthritis. Data is lacking in dogs, but Boswellia is frequently included in veterinary products such as Dasuquin.
See more options for plant-based arthritis relief here.
E+/ Memitina
Microlactin
This product is advertised as a “nutritional aid” containing dried milk protein that may help with inflammation. The science behind this is hard to understand and honestly, it’s a bit hazy. Though there are several products that fall into this category, there is no available, unbiased scientific evidence to support its use. The published data has been financed by the companies producing the product.
Cannabinoids/CBD
Research into the use of cannabinoids for pain control in humans are ongoing. Research in veterinary medicine is lacking due to federal regulations regarding the uses of cannabinoids. This is changing. At this time, there are no dosing recommendations and CBD oil and other products cannot be recommended.
Important Considerations When Choosing Joint Supplements for Dogs
https://www.quality-supplements.org/
If using a human grade product, look for the logo of the United States Pharmacopeia Dietary Supplement Verification Program. This company tests “human dietary supplements for ingredients, concentrations, dissolvability, and contaminants” per the Cummings School of Veterinary Medicine website. Another excellent resource is ConsumerLab.com which tests BOTH human and pet supplements for ingredients.
When in doubt, before purchasing a product, check with your veterinarian. Supplements can be quite pricey, but often the profit is spent on flashy advertising rather than on rigorous quality control and efficacy testing. Your veterinarian can consult with a nutritionist regarding supplements and help you choose one that is right (and useful!) for your dog.
One thing I don’t do very much of is walking my dogs on leash. I am super lucky; I live in an area with any number of safe, interesting places to walk my dogs off-leash – and there is almost no one else around! In the past few weeks, I have gone out for a dog walk with two different friends for a total of five walks, and we saw one other person on the trails once – and it was another friend of mine! With one of my former foster dogs!
However, I actually credit all this time OFF-leash with my dogs’ good ON-leash behavior. I’ll explain how in a moment.
I have been thinking about this a lot lately, for two reasons.
I’ve been teaching my foster puppy, Odin, to walk nicely on leash. Usually, when I raise foster pups, I keep them just long enough to be healthy enough to return to the shelter for spay/neuter surgery and to be adopted; I rarely have a foster pup past the age of three months. Odin is over five months old now, more than ready to be learning “big dog” life skills, and since he’s still here, we’re working on those skills now. Also, if and when I find the perfect family to adopt him, at this point, I want to make sure he’s got a great training foundation and will fit in anyone’s home seamlessly.
But I have also been helping a friend at her training center lately, taking on some puppy kindergarten teaching duties. And of course, THE number one thing the students in puppy classes struggle with is walking their puppies on leash without pulling.
We teach them to be conscious about when the leash is tight or loose, and to “stand like a tree” when the puppies pull, with “no bungee cord arms,” making sure the pups cannot pull to their humans in order to reach things they want. We teach them to notice and reinforce their pups for staying close to them and NOT pulling, so the pups learn that if they want to get places and reach things, they need to stay close to their humans – THEN they can go farther and faster. These tactics work – I know they do; I am seeing it with Odin – if they are applied consistently and frequently.
But if I had to share my absolute number one tip for teaching a dog to walk on leash? I’d have to say it’s the reward of getting to walk with me OFF-leash, in a space where they can run and get their zoomies out. I carry great treats (and in Woody’s case, an even higher-value reinforce, his Planet Dog Squeak ball), and reward them generously with treats and play, praise, and petting when they check in, respond to my cues of “WAIT,” “OFF,” “SIT,” and “HERE!”
As long as they are responsive to my cues, they get to stay off leash. If they aren’t so responsive, the leash goes on and we work on the same stuff. They get treats and praise and the opportunity to play with a toy, but the BIG prize for perfect, sharp responses is getting the leash unclipped, so they can run off-leash some more. It seems to work!
If your dog has great leash manners, share what worked for you. Do you have a “secret weapon” for teaching your dog to behave well on leash? What made the breakthrough in training? Or is walking nicely on leash still a struggle for you and your dog?
The whole world is aware that we love to buy stuff for our pets; more than $70 billion was spent by U.S. owners on their pets last year. But we have to say that a lot of that spending was a waste! There are tons of cutesy, low-quality products out there that fail to deliver any real benefit to either dogs or their handlers. That’s where we can help, with five pages of top-quality stuff that you and your dog will truly enjoy.
Benni (seen in the snow below) is my first small-sized dog in decades. I like to do the same activities with him that I did with my big dogs. But I discovered it can be hard to find quality products for active little dogs. Most small-dog items lean toward cute and not necessarily useful. This is especially true for leashes.
Because we walk in the woods year-round, we need a long leash that can withstand being dragged through creeks, mud, and snow. Nylon isn’t the best choice for these types of adventures, and while leather is tough, it can get dirty and stiff and is hard to dry.
Enter Bold Lead Designs’ Brahma XS leash. It’s made of a man-made, leather-like material that wipes clean and dries immediately. It’s super flexible and soft enough to comfortably handle with bare hands. This is an important feature when you’re handling a long line. Nothing stings like a nylon leash sliding through your hands! The Brahma also has sturdy hardware (your choice of stainless steel or solid brass) – not the cheap stuff that falls apart in cold temperatures – secured with rivets.
But the main reason this brand is my favorite is because all of this comes in a regular (1/2-inch), wide (3/4-inch), and a small-dog package: 3/8-inches wide and with a smaller-sized fastener. I haven’t been able to find anything else this sturdy in such a nice small size.
Bold Lead Designs offers the Brahma Lead in nine standard lengths (from four to 50 feet) and with four different types of “end”: a regular loop handle, no handle (straight end), a handle loop with a loose ring, and a fixed O-ring. I have two of these leashes – a 12-ft and a 30-ft length. They’re easy to coil up and won’t kink.
I’ll admit they are pricey, but after more than a year of daily use, they still look and feel brand new. I’ll never go back to nylon for long lines! – Nancy Tucker
These are not new. But I simply can’t be without them, whether I’m training my own dogs, meeting and assessing shelter dogs as a volunteer, or feeding a sick foster dog or puppy back to health. And I’ve yet to meet a dog who will turn up his nose at this puffed-up, crumbly treat.
Meal Mixers are grape-sized nuggets of raw, freeze-dried muscle and organ meat, raw ground bone, and organic vegetables. They can be fed as a complete and balanced diet (suitable for dogs of all life stages), a highly palatable food “topper,” or a motivating and rewarding treat. I rehydrate and feed them as my secret remedy for transforming sick, inappetent dogs into healthy, hungry, happy ones. – Nancy Kerns
I hate to make my review of this harness all about the handle, because overall, it’s designed beautifully, padded for the dog’s comfort, easy to adjust for a perfect fit, and durable. It has a nice, big ring for attaching a leash at the back of the harness and reflective strips that help your dog be seen at night. My dogs have worn this model daily for a few years and despite this hard use, and though they have been washed in a washing machine several times, they are still in great shape. A similar-looking harness made by a competitor fell apart under less than half the duress.
But it can’t be denied that the handle has been enormously useful to me. It helped when my older dogs started having mobility issues and needed occasional help upon rising, on stairs, and getting in and out of the car. It helped the Border Collie with a bum leg who I adopted, and it helped even more after my veterinarian amputated the problem leg and the exuberant young fetch addict was finding his way as a new “tripod” dog. And it’s currently helpful when my young canine athletes lose their footing on a steep hillside or otherwise need a hand – which may be a uniquely mountain dog problem!
But it’s not just me: A friend uses the same harness to quickly lift her reactive small dog off the ground and whisk him to safety when they are unexpectedly accosted by an off-leash dog and the feisty terrier-mix takes extraordinary offense. It’s quite literally a life-saver! – Kathryn Socie-Dunning
It sounds a little strange, but the best mats I’ve ever found for padding my dogs’ crates come from a company named and known for their pet deodorizing products. I’m not sure how they got into the pet bed business, but I’m glad they did. This is the only bed I will use in a crate, because they are both super comfortable for my dogs and virtually indestructible.
Now it’s true: I have small dogs. But my Papillons go to town scratching on them at times – like, full-force try-to-dig-to-China scratching – and the pads never show a mark. And my sister is still using the one she purchased for her Labrador almost a decade ago.
The mat’s closed cell memory-foam insert is protected by a tough Cordura cover. The covers can be washed, and take washing and drying in the dryer well, though it always seems like they’ve shrunk when it is time to re-insert the foam core – but they haven’t! It’s just that the cover fits the foam tightly. I roll the foam up a little (in a U-shape), push that into the cover, then flatten it out and zip it up.
Alden Odor makes the pads in standard crate dimensions so they fit just as tightly in crates as in their own covers, so that it’s difficult for a dog to pull up the mat and chew on it. The mats come in nine sizes, from Petite (12″ x 17″) to Giant (28″ x 48″).
I just can’t say enough about the quality of the memory foam insert; it’s very supportive. Sometimes my tired little agility dog asks to go in his crate, so he can lie down on that mat. I’d even pay more for such a great product, though I’m happy that I don’t have to! – Cynthia Foley
When my Norwich Terrier Ella was nearing her 13th birthday, she started slowing down. She could sometimes do our regular two-mile walk at a trot, but other times she would slow to a walk partway through. I wanted to get a stroller so that when she got tired, I could put her in the stroller and my younger dog and I could continue walking at a good pace. The problem was that every stroller I looked at was made in China and the reviews indicated that they would start falling apart within six months. Most also had hard, plastic wheels that created an uncomfortable ride.
Then I discovered the Dogger from Dog Quality, a Canadian company that makes their own strollers. I wanted this stroller so badly that I waited an extra month while they were out of stock.
When it arrived, I couldn’t believe the quality. The large (12″) air-filled tires and shock absorbers create a smooth ride, even when I take the stroller onto trails. It rolls easily – I can push it with one finger when there’s no dog inside – and maneuvers exceptionally well. It comes with just about everything you need, including a storage basket underneath, rain cover, and a canopy that can be adjusted in multiple ways (parts can even be removed if desired). The only extras I purchased were a drink holder with multiple compartments that I also use for storing leashes and poop bags, and an orthopedic pad for an additional $10.
At $270 (including shipping), this stroller costs about $100 more than the cheap Chinese versions but will last forever. If a part does wear out or get damaged, you can buy just the replacement part instead of having to get a new stroller. The company offers a 15 percent discount to you and anyone you refer who also purchases one.
One day a woman who was driving by pulled over to tell me that she had used the same stroller for seven years and it still looked just like new; the only thing she had replaced were wheels, which they make exceptionally easy to do. I’ve had mine for a year and a half now, and the only maintenance I’ve had to do is put air in the tires (easily done with a bicycle pump).
Ella enjoys her stroller, which can hold up to 60 pounds and is large enough for two or more small dogs. The Dogger also folds down easily for transport in a car. – Mary Straus
When we put out a call to our friends and contributors, asking them for “gear of the year” product recommendations, the one that made me want to order the minute I saw a product photo was the Martingale All-in-One, which was enthusiastically put forward by Aditi Joshi, a street dog advocate from Mumbai, India (and who was featured in Whole Dog Journal‘s August 2018 issue).
Aditi looks out for the health and well being of about 70 dogs in her neighborhood, taking them into her home when they need minor nursing care for injuries or parasites, and taking them to veterinary clinics when they need more advanced care. Her tool of choice when she needs to quickly collar and lead a street dog into a taxi or into her home? The Martingale All-in-One collar/leash combination. She received one as a gift from a friend in the U.S., and uses it daily.
What’s so great about it? Well, first, it’s a “limited slip” or martingale collar. This means that the collar fits loosely, unless a dog tries to slip out of the collar or pull away. Then it tightens, but only as much as needed to prevent it from slipping off the dog; it can’t tighten enough to choke the dog like regular, full slip leads can if the dog panics and fights the restraint.
Most other limited-slip collars, however, are put on the dog by sliding the loop of the collar over the dog’s head. This one has a plastic buckle, which means a handler can slide it over the dog’s head or, with dogs who are frightened or wary of being “lassoed” by a loop, the handler can tactfully pet the dog with the unfastened collar and buckle it when she is able.
I often use leather slip leads as a volunteer at my local shelter, because few of the shelter wards wear collars and slipping a loop over their heads is fast and simple. If any of them panic and dig in their heels, we have to stop and jury-rig a knot so that the leash doesn’t tighten so much that they are even more frightened by being choked, but one that is not so tight that they can slip out of the collar and get loose.
In contrast, this collar/leash combination, with its nice, wide, padded collar; the limited slip feature; the handy six-foot leash length; and soft-yet-strong, hand-woven material, is going to be just the dog-walking tool I have wanted for years. Aditi says so! – N.K.
Although an increasing number of dog lovers are familiar with the concept of snuffle mats, these fantastic dog accessories are still not nearly as widely known and used as they deserve to be. If you’ve never tried one, you and your dog are in for a treat – literally.
The basic concept of the Snuffle Mat is simple. Take a durable surface that has lots of nooks and crannies, load it with treats (or use it to feed him his regular meals), and let your dog ferret out all the goodies. It’s fun, it invites him to use his nose (which most dogs love!), it keeps him busy, and uses up excess canine energy (scent work is surprisingly tiring).
It’s also a perfect solution for the dog who inhales his food – he has to slow down his intake as he searches for food bits. In addition, Snuffle Mats are easily portable, so you can take them with you when you and your canine pal are visiting friends and family, hanging out at your kids’ softball games, or when you need to keep your vocal, high-energy dog quietly and happily occupied during down times at training class.
There are numerous snuffle mat options, from simple make-it-yourself varieties to our favorite, the Paw5 Wooly Snuffle Mat. The Wooly is durable and washable, and its unique rounded fingers facilitate easy treat stashing. [Editor’s note: My pit-mix Woody has been eating from the same one for three years, and it’s gotten a tad less “wooly,” but still does the trick. I machine-wash and -dry it about every three to four weeks.]
A Google search turns up several other brands, including at least one that has other treat hiding/finding options in addition to the snuffle stuff. Check them out and give one a try. – Pat Miller
My old dog Ella does a lot of peeing these days (she was diagnosed with early-stage kidney disease) and has accidents in the house if I’m not diligent about taking her out consistently. I ended up buying a doggie diaper for her, but I’ve only had it on her a couple of times, as I can keep the accidents under control if I make sure to take her out a lot. But what about when I have to be out of the house for longer than Ella can hold it?
A friend recommended the PeeKeeper – which is billed as the “only escape-proof dog diaper” – as the only diaper that stays on well. It has a unisex design, so it would work well to control urine-marking from males as well as incontinence.
The PeeKeeper is highly adjustable and fits well. It is easy to take on and off once you get the hang of it. Ella doesn’t seem to mind wearing it. You add the feminine or incontinence pad of your choice to absorb the urine, which gives you a lot of choices as to size, thickness, and absorbency.
The product is currently made only in sizes that would fit small to medium-sized dogs (no more than 40 pounds). It is made with 100 percent cotton, and can be machine washed and dried.
The company does not take phone orders but is responsive via email. – M.S.
You know how you’re supposed to keep the “high value” treats on hand for serious training? I like to have cooked chicken or turkey available, but sometimes it’s impossible because there’s nothing cooked or I ran out or they’re still frozen. And it’s always a problem for me to have real meat in my pockets (yuck).
Then someone told me about Nudges Homestyle Treats, in the Chicken Pot Pie flavor. My dogs go nuts as soon as they smell these treats. They come shaped like a pot pie but are easy to break apart so you can feed appropriately small pieces. Better yet, I can then shove the rest of the “pie” in my pocket with minimal crumbs.
I first thought the price was a bit much, but then I learned how long these treats last. They are sold in Target and Walmart stores, but unlike most of the treats in those outlets, Nudges have a reasonably healthy ingredients list, and no artificial colors, flavors, or preservatives.
Everyone I have recommended them to has loved them (and their dogs, too!). When I pulled one out at class, one of my agility friends said, “Wow! You brought the good stuff!” – C. F.
When I hit a patch of black ice on the highway and went spinning and crashing into the median (a few times), my dogs were loose in the car and obviously terrified. None of us were injured, thankfully, but it scared me enough to look into crates that are durable enough to stay intact and protect my dogs if I was ever involved in another wreck.
That’s when I discovered the Ruff Tough kennels. They are designed to take a serious beating and not skewer the canines inside them. They fit well in my car and are easy to load in and take out, if one wants to use them more than just in the car.
They are made of heavy-duty, high-density polyethylene and crafted with one-piece, molded construction, eliminating weak points and debris-collecting seams. They can be stacked without squishing the crate below, and there are built-in metal inserts that let you secure the kennels together; coupler kits are also sold separately that can join two kennels side-by-side.
They are sold with a one-year manufacturer’s warranty and come in six sizes, from small (16″ x 22″) to extra large (22″ x 40″). Ruffland does not sell the kennels directly, but their website lists local and online retailers.
It may sound odd, but crates made life with multiple dogs heaven. I can’t believe I never used them before, thinking a dog would hate me for putting them in one! In fact, my dogs will often go hang out in their crates by choice, which makes me enormously happy. It’s a space all their own and I somehow never grasped how important that is for most mammals, myself included – sometimes you just need a break.
Thanks to the crates, I can open up the car when it’s warm and they have a safe place to be. I can pull the crates out and set them up in the shade, so I can work one dog while the others are lounging comfortably. I can separate dogs while they chew raw bones quietly and never have to worry over sharp-toothed shenanigans arising. There’s more too, but I’ll stop there! – K.S.D.
I asked trainer and WDJ’s Training Editor Pat Miller to write about the risks and responsibilities of off-leash dog walks in this issue. That’s because I’m a huge fan of hiking with my dogs off-leash, but I recognize that the activity is a huge challenge for many dog owners.
I hike with my dogs off-leash a couple times a week. I am supremely lucky to live nearby a “wildlife area” where it’s legal for dogs to be off-leash for much of the year (not during the bird nesting season, however). It has wide-open views, offers several areas where dogs can drink and swim in safe, clean water, and best of all, I hardly ever see anyone else out there!
But it’s not without hazards. The area is home to lots of rattlesnakes, and we see them frequently in the late summer and early fall. There is a shooting range nearby, and hunting is allowed in various seasons; some dogs (not mine) are frightened by the sound of gunfire and may spook. There are always birds on the various bodies of water we walk around; dogs who chase waterfowl might take off and never be seen again! And the boundary fenceline we sometimes walk along is just barbed wire and cattle graze on the other side; a nave town-dog who decides to crawl under the fence in hopes of a fun chase risks getting stomped by the range-smart mama cows, who defend their calves from coyotes year after year.
To me, the benefits of off-leash walks in this area are worth the risks – but I also work hard to make sure my dogs have razor-sharp recalls, that they respond to “OFF!” by halting or turning away from whatever has piqued their interest, and that they will sit down immediately on cue and stay put until I release them with another cue. We practice each of these behaviors every single time we walk out there, and I bring high-value treats (and Woody’s favorite squeak ball) to reward them richly for their cooperation.
It’s not for everyone. I have friends who are put off by the snakes, others whose dogs are so overstimulated by the water birds that they cannot be let off-leash, and one whose dog comes unglued when she hears gunfire. That’s all fine with me; my dogs and I are fine with being alone in our (practically private) park.
CORRECTION
I inadvertently left Solid Gold off the list of our approved dry dog foods in last month’s issue. It was an oversight and absolutely no reflection on any lapse on the part of the company. We have added their company and product information to the online version of the February issue and will include this information in the April issue, along with some other notes and discussion about the dry food review.
