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I love dedicated dog people.

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The company that I work for is based in Norwalk, Connecticut. I have worked for Belvoir Media Group for the past 22 years on Whole Dog Journal, and before that, on The Whole Horse Journal! But given that I work from my home in northern California, and do little more than just produce the editorial content of the publication, it’s easy for me to be ignorant of the dozens of people on the other side of the country who are working to support WDJ’s circulation, marketing, website, promotions, etc.

I mean, I speak regularly to my boss, and I have weekly interaction with the person who needs my weekly blog post by a certain day at a certain time . . . and, in the day of modern publishing, I now also have regular meetings with the “kids” who do “search engine optimization” and let me know what sorts of articles you guys are looking for. They track the online access to our back issues and offer suggestions on what content needs to be updated and freshened up – which is helpful, because I tend to think “We just DID an in-depth article on pancreatitis!” when in fact that article is six or seven years old now.

But every once in a while the company asks me to come out to Connecticut and work with members of the team whose names I only really know from email – and am not even really sure what they do. And what a delight it is when it turns out that some of these people are ardent readers of WDJ, and are, in fact, super dedicated dog people who are doing absolutely everything right for their dogs! What fun!

My kind of dog person

For a couple of days, I am out here working with a number of people on producing a course for new dog owners – an online guide with video and slides and all sorts of valuable content plucked from the pages of WDJ. I’m spending a few hours in a role I do not enjoy, in front of a camera instead of behind one, taking pictures of dogs. But yesterday, we filmed at the home of one of the company’s circulation directors (Belvoir Media Group publishes a lot of magazines and newsletters, not just WDJ). And what a joy it was to pull up and see, on the back of Theresa’s car, a spare-tire cover featuring a lovely photo of her Bulldog, several Bulldog-themed bumper stickers, and inside her home, a plethora of not just Bulldog-themed art, but smart dog-owner stuff everywhere! Baby gates in both the kitchen doorways. Baskets of dog toys. A variety of collars and leashes hanging by the door. And two gorgeous but dog-friendly fenced yards, where we filmed.

A Bulldog with a nice waistline!

I brought a present for Theresa’s six-year-old Bulldog, Macy: Woody’s favorite toy in the world, a brand-new Planet Dog Squeak ball. I was happy initially because not only was Macy a particularly fit Bulldog, she immediately loved and coveted the toy (and Theresa assured me that it wasn’t indiscriminate love; “She’s very picky about her toys,” she said seriously). But then I told Theresa that I had brought some of my favorite dog treats from home, some Stella & Chewy’s Freeze-Dried Meal Mixers. And right away she asked, “What’s in them? Because Macy can’t have chicken or she breaks out in hives.” Of course, the ones I brought were chicken, but I was thrilled to meet a dog owner who was aware of the cause of a problem and proactive about protecting her dog from the problem – and who was ready with some chicken-free treats of her own to give me, so I could help guide Macy through our shots in front of the camera together. And she showed me the cues that she uses to ask Macy for the good-manners behaviors and tricks she knows. What fun!

In my part of the world, I meet a lot of dog owners who don’t microchip, who have choke chains on their dogs as a matter of course, who don’t train their dogs – or even let them in the house! So it’s a pure delight to go and meet a total stranger who works on behalf of WDJ behind the scenes who is a total WDJ-type of person.

I’ll keep you apprised about the course; it’s going to be great!

Download the Full June 2019 Issue PDF

  • Canine Cancer
  • How Dry I Am
  • Service Dog Scams
  • Cushing's Disease
  • Diggity Dog?
  • Final Preparations
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Buy New Dog Food

28
whole dog journal editor Nancy Kerns

One of the most urgent issues facing owners in this country today is the spike in the number of cases of canine dilated cardiomyopathy (DCM), especially in breeds that do not have an inherited higher risk of developing the condition. I have been discussing the issue with board-certified veterinary nutritionists and representatives of pet food companies and will have an update for you soon. In the meantime, I feel compelled to repeat one bit of advice that I give in (I think) every review of foods I have ever written for WDJ:

Don’t feed the same food every month. Don’t feed the same type of food every month! Switch companies!

Forgive the repetition if you are a long-time reader of WDJ; you are aware we’ve been saying this forever. Newer subscribers might not have heard it before.

There is a persistent myth that if you switch your dog’s food too quickly, or too frequently, you will “upset the dog’s stomach.” This myth almost surely originated from pet food companies decades ago; they were no doubt trying to build their consumers’ loyalty to their brand while offering a solution to a problem that they had created – the fact that you can upset a dog’s digestive tract if you feed him the same diet (and nothing else) for months and months and then suddenly give him something very different. What they failed to tell dog owners was that feeding their dogs different foods all the time – switching diets frequently – is more “natural” for dogs; they are perfectly suited to eating a varied diet. Imposing an unnaturally narrow diet on them begs for problems to develop.

If you have a dog with a proven allergy to or intolerance of multiple ingredients, finding a variety of products that don’t aggravate his particular system can be challenging. But the fact remains that variety itself does not hurt your dog. And, importantly, frequently changing the food you buy for your dog – switching among varieties but also among different companies – very likely could have prevented many of the cases of DCM being associated with specific diets.

I’m monitoring many online groups devoted to this topic, and have seen it hundreds of times: “I have been feeding my dog ‘Brand X’ for the past three years, and now he’s been diagnosed with DCM! Brand X is a terrible company!” In many cases, affected dogs are improving with dietary changes, but I would hate to see the owners simply switch undying loyalty to a different company!

The fact is, feeding the same type of products from the same company year in and year out is putting your dog’s health solely in that company’s hands. There isn’t any single company I would trust my entire lifetime of nutrition to; why do we expect this from any pet food company for our dogs?

What Happened to Odin’s Eye?

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One of my longest-term fosters was Odin, who was one of seven starved, mange-covered puppies brought into my local shelter. I fostered the whole litter (though two didn't survive their serious conditions), but I had Odin for many months, and many trips to the veterinary ophthalmology department at UC Davis, trying to save his injured eye. I would have loved to keep him; he was a total sweetheart. Fortunately, he found a terrific family who ADORES him -- and I have room to keep fostering.

I asked in a previous blog post what you guys would do in my position: go ahead with an experimental surgery and medication regime requiring a one-year commitment to the medication – and which, if it didn’t work, would still result in the loss of his eye – OR, just go ahead and have Odin’s eye removed now, putting an end to his 12 daily doses of various medications and discomfort. I really appreciated every single comment and suggestion! They made me cry more than once and I seriously considered each and every one.

Keep in mind that Odin is still, officially and legally, a foster dog who belongs to my local shelter, the Northwest SPCA. So while I have fostered him since he was about six weeks old, when I took he and his mange-covered, starving littermates out of the shelter to care for them, the management of the shelter had the final say. They have given me tremendous latitude with my foster puppies’ care, and probably wouldn’t flat-out override any decisions I made unless it was clear I had lost my mind (which, folks, can happen in the land of rescue and fostering! There is new evidence about this almost daily; see here and here and here, as just a few recent examples.) But of course I have discussed Odin’s situation with the shelter staff at every step along our journey so far.

The opinion of the shelter veterinarian and the manager? Let’s end the poor little guy’s discomfort and let him go on to live his life without daily medications and monthly trips to the veterinary hospital at UC Davis. And in the end, I agreed.

Enucleation surgery

So a week ago on Wednesday, I took Odin to the shelter and, tears in my eyes, put him in one of the cages in the recovery room, so he could await his turn for surgery (he was second on the list for the day, right after a spaniel who had a tumor on her abdomen and another on her tail that needed removal). About four hours later, the RVT called me to let me know that Odin was recovered enough to go home with me and that he’d need to spend the rest of the day being very quiet, come back in a week to 10 days to have stitches removed, and stay in a cone for about three weeks, to allow everything to heal without complications.

He was still groggy when I picked him up and carried him to my car, and I lifted him out of the car at home, too, although when I put him down, he walked out onto my lawn and peed like a good boy. Then I carried him into the house and put him on the couch, got a blanket and book, and told my husband that we’d be camped out there together for the rest of the day. He had been given pain meds (and I had more pain medication and antibiotics to give him for the next week) and whined under his breath on and off all afternoon. I felt horrible.

We all had to adjust to the cone, not just Odin!

I also felt extremely guilty for not putting a cone on him before surgery to acclimate him to wearing one when he was not in pain. I hadn’t thought of it until I dropped him off for surgery and the RVT mentioned he would need to wear one afterward, to make sure he didn’t bump, rub, or scratch at the delicate area as it healed. Duh! I should have prepared him – because I think that learning to navigate with the cone was the worst part of his next 36 hours or so. On his first foray off the couch, the edge of the cone got caught on the edge of the coffee table, and he cried out and scrambled in a panic to escape the noise and bending of the cone. Then he froze, whining, and wouldn’t even try to walk or move again. So, for his first potty, I carried him out the door and past all the obstacles on my front porch, only putting him down on the open expanse of the lawn. Even so, he looked down and the edge of the cone caught on the grass and he just sat down, disconsolate.

An alternative to the dog cone

That’s when – again, late to the party – I thought of Rex Specs, a ski-goggles-type of eye protection. I got online and ordered some, paying for expedited shipping (although I was frustrated because there was no way to order some to be delivered within one or two days). I had seen Rex Specs at pet product trade shows, and they seemed like they would be perfect for protecting the surgery site without the bother of the cone, with a curved shape that fits dogs’ faces, soft padding all around the frames, an innovative venting system that keeps them from getting steamed up, and fairly secure straps that hold them on. Unlike a cone, they would also allow Odin to chew a rawhide or bone or food-stuffed Kong to help occupy his quiet time. (Dogs need their paws to chew things! They just can’t do this with a cone on!)

I did take a pair of sharp kitchen scissors and cut down the cone a bit – about an inch and a half all the way around – so that it still protected his whole face but didn’t require quite so much room for him to get around without bashing on furniture, door frames, and the legs of everyone else who lives in our house. Even so, Otto in particular took to scrambling away from Odin every time he looked like he might walk nearby.

Making the cone a tad smaller helped Odin navigate later, but for those first 36 hours, I had to take the cone off every time I thought he might have to potty. As soon as he was freed from it, he would trot right out and take care of business. I’d let him eat without it on, and put it back again. He was sad enough about it that it kept him quiet and laying on the couch or the giant dog bed in the living room.

Odin, Ricky, and Woody: Mom says, “Go play, but don’t have too much fun!” Woody mopes, “What’s the point?!”

I spent that day working outside at home – mowing the pasture, trimming shrubs, fixing sprinklers, and so on. I was also supervising the activity of Woody and a friend’s dog, Ricky. Ricky’s owner had knee surgery that day, and he’s a young and boisterous dog who requires a lot of exercise to behave, so I offered to bring him to my house to exercise daily for a few days. He and Woody ran and wrestled and dug for gophers and stayed active all day long.

Time to play

Friday, after pottying outside, breakfast, and medication administration, I put Odin’s cone back on, got him settled on the couch, and headed outside for another day of yardwork. Almost immediately I heard him scratching at the door and howling up a storm. Since my husband works at home, this wouldn’t do. I let him come outside, and put a leash on him, and convinced him to settle near me as I worked. This is when he finally started getting used to moving around with the cone, and not freaking out when it jabbed or caught on things.

On Saturday, I had Ricky back for the day (he had been tired enough after Thursday’s play to sleep for most of Friday). Between this distraction/excitement and Odin’s growing competence with the cut-down cone, all semblance of “keeping Odin quiet” went out the window. It was a frustrating day for Odin and for me. I split the day between supervising bouts of slightly restrained play between the three young dogs outside (with Odin’s cone on), and giving him food-stuffed frozen Kongs and giant rawhide chews to work on inside, with his cone off and me watching him like a hawk to keep him from getting up and walking around (perhaps bumping the surgery site) or taking a casual swipe at the itchy, healing area with a hind paw. It was nerve-wracking!

Trying on the Rex Specs

By the time the Rex Specs arrived on Monday, Odin was a total cone-pro – they weren’t really necessary anymore. But I thought they would be an improvement, nonetheless: He could finally stop bashing into all of our legs with the dang cone, and enjoy chewing things, while keeping the eye-site protected. But they haven’t been the panacea I was hoping for. Unless you make the straps really tight, he can still paw them out of place – and making the straps super tight puts more pressure on his face than can possibly be good for the healing area, and obviously makes him more conscious of the goggles than I’d like him to be. Still, if I can get him to wear them without pawing at them, secured with a normal amount of tightness, I think they would offer greater protection of the surgery site and less discomfort than the cone. So I am putting them on him for short sessions while he does supervised, enjoyable, distracting activities, like eating meals, working on food-stuffed Kongs, following Woody around our fenced two acres, and so on.

Healing from the surgery

As far as the surgery itself: The site is healing beautifully. I have to say that I think Odin is super happy to not have to submit to having eye medication administered 12 times a day. I also think that having the vision-impaired (but not completely blind) eye removed has actually helped him see better. Since his initial eye injury, he’s always had a strange, slightly upright posture and squinty expression when he tried to see things that are far away. I notice that his posture and expression is softer and more relaxed now when he’s looking at things that are more than 20 feet away; it’s just a guess, based on a careful study of his posture, but I think he can see things way better with his single good eye than he could with the same eye paired with the edema- and scar-tissue filled eye. He looks less like a meercat and more like a regular dog when he watches the world going by out my windows. I am thinking the surgery was the right thing to do.

He will get his stitches out in a couple of days, and wear the cone and/or goggles for a couple more weeks. When all his hair is grown back, we will start trying to find him a perfect home.

Thanks again for your interest in little Odin. He’s a fun, special little guy and I’ve learned so much from having him. ** About the eyeball itself: The veterinarian who did the surgery put it into formalin to preserve it. Next week, on my next trip through that area, I’m going to take it to Davis so the ophthalmologist at the university veterinary teaching hospital who has been helping Odin can dissect it. It will be interesting to hear her report when that happens.

Welcome to the new Whole Dog Journal website!

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Exciting news from the Whole Dog Journal staff!

We’re pleased to present to you Whole Dog Journal’s brand-new website. On the site, you’ll find every article we’ve ever published, going back to our first issue in 1998. In addition to the articles featured in the publication, the site includes all of Nancy’s blogs and other content created exclusively for the web.

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Making Weighty Decisions for Our Dogs

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As I explained in a couple blog posts (here), about two months ago my foster puppy Odin, who has been receiving treatment for a nonspecific condition in his left eye, was initially accepted into a study at the U.C. Davis Veterinary Medical Teaching Hospital – a study in which his eye would be treated with a promising new medication, already approved in Japan. The medication is intended to treat corneal endothelial cell dystrophy – something that, it appeared, Odin may well have.

To start the process, I brought Odin to an ophthalmology lab at the VMTH for some extensive tests, to get a baseline on the condition of Odin’s healthy eye as well as the problematic one. That’s when we discovered that an injury, not disease, was likely at the core (literally) of his eye troubles.

Using optical coherence tomography, the technicians were able to get images of the interior of Odin’s cornea. They observed that a tear or bubble has formed between the corneal endothelial layer and the next layer upward (outward), the Desemet’s membrane. The doctor who heads the study told me, “Well, the medicine we are testing absolutely won’t hurt, and might possibly help, although this is not what it’s designed to do… And we’ve come this far. It’s up to you, but I am happy to reexamine him if you want to try the medication.”

So, for the past two months, Odin has been receiving four doses a day of the medication under study, as well as two different steroid drops and four doses a day of hypertonic saline ointment. All of the latter medications are intended to reduce his corneal edema.

Sadly, we had our follow-up appointment, and if anything, the tear, or bubble in his eye, is a bit worse.

The doctor was as disappointed as I was, even though she said that we were hoping the medicine might possibly do something that it’s not actually expected to do. It has been shown to reduce intraocular pressure, to reduce corneal thickness, to promote corneal endothelial cell proliferation, and even to enhance corneal wound healing – but the ability to close a separation between the endothelial cell layer and the Desemet’s membrane is not something that has been previously demonstrated. Dang it.

We discussed Odin’s options. Realistically, they include only:

(1) Continuing to administer steroid drops and hypertonic saline daily, to control the corneal edema in an attempt to preserve what little vision he has in that eye (essentially, a fuzzy view whereby he can detect only basic light and dark), and staying vigilant about the condition of his eye, in case excessive edema requires that the eye be surgically removed for his comfort….

Or, (2), just going ahead and surgically removing the eye. This procedure is referred to as enucleation. In this case, this would mean no more pain and no more daily doses of medications many times a day, but obviously, the total loss of vision on one side.

I came home a little bummed out. I was hoping for some signs of progress, something that would encourage us to keep going with this medication. But after the news that the bubble in his eye was worse, not better, I started to feel like it would be best to just go ahead and schedule the enucleation surgery.

Odin gets a few treats after EVERY SINGLE DOSE of medication, so he steps up and takes it like a champ, but it’s obviously not at all enjoyable. The drops are not that bad, but the ointment, especially, is a pain. It is hard to administer without poking him with the tip of the tube once in a while (especially as he quite naturally squints his eye muscles as tightly as possible, while I fight to pull his eyelids apart to get the tube close enough to the eye, instead of all over his eyelashes). It is goopy, and makes the whole area around his eye sticky, and seems to irritate him and sting a bit. How much happier will he be without these many administrations of medication every day? Much, I would think! And he can’t really see out of the eye as it is, anyway! Let’s just get this over with, I thought. But I was sad.

 

Odin's cornea 

A day later, my phone rang, and I recognized the number as originating from the VMTH (it’s been a long few months of interactions with the vets there!). The doctor who is doing the studies and who has examined Odin said, “Hey, I can’t stop thinking about Odin.”

I laughed. “Aww! Me, either!” I told her. “I’m really sad about his eye. I was really hoping we could do something for it.”

She said, “Well, I was thinking… There is one more thing we could try – but I have to warn you, it might not work, either.” She explained that there is a procedure where the Descemet’s membrane is surgically stripped away, and then the eye is treated with the same medication we were trying before, the one that is undergoing trials for approval in this country. So we’d be looking at a surgery, three weeks in a cone, and continuing the daily medications for up to a year. This approach has been fairly successful; I googled and easily found a human study that utilized the same approach that a 75 percent success rate.

But if it failed, he’d lose the eye, anyway.

So here I am, trying to decide. On one hand:

There are LOTS of perfectly happy, perfectly functional one-eyed dogs out there. We could surgically remove his eye next week and end his many months of daily administration of eye medications. Within three weeks he’d be ready to start finding his forever home. (Yes, I still want to find him a home somewhere else, so I can return to giving Otto more time and attention. But, believe me when I say it is going to have to be a PERFECT home, with someone who has lots of time and love and space for a special little dog.)

On the other hand:

Maybe this surgery and medication regime would work. It would address that bubble, that tear, whatever it is… and he just might recover his full eyesight. I would still be shopping for a home for him, but it would have to be someone within easy striking distance of the UCD VMTH, so he could continue to visit there regularly for follow-up studies. And if I can’t find that person, I could commit to continuing the daily damn drops (and commit my friends, too, who step up and take Odin and administer his medications when I have to travel and to whom I owe much!). But it might fail, and he’d still have to have the eye removed. The odds are good that I would end up keeping Odin after (potentially) many more months of living with him, which (perhaps) Odin would be happy about, but it would definitely come at the expense of more quality time with my old dog, Otto.

What would be “best” for Odin? I think he’d like to be done with eye pain, eye discomfort, and eye medication – and he can’t see much out of it right now, anyway. And there is no way to tell him that maybe, with more pain and time, he might recover his sight in that eye. And contribute to science! Pfft! Would he care about that? Would he be happier with (possibly) two eyes?

As of today, I just don’t know what I’m going to do. It’s a tough decision. Tell me, what would you do?

How NOT to Teach Your Puppy to Sit

3

I’ve always wondered the origin of the practice of pushing a puppy or dog’s bottom to the ground in order to “teach her to sit.” Who was the first person to do this, and why is the action so universally repeated by humans all over the world? And, given its ubiquity, why don’t people try this with kittens or chickens or any other species of animal? Why do people push dogs’ rear ends in an effort to force them to sit?

My guesses are these: People do it because it sometimes works; the dog or puppy learns that to avoid the discomfort of being forced to bend all the joints in their rear ends, they should just sit down. And that once someone has seen anyone else do this with apparent success, they think maybe they will try it, too!

But these are poor guesses, because I’ve shown hundreds of people how to get their puppies or dogs to sit without touching them – and without saying “Sit! Sit! SIT!” – and trainers I know have taught thousands and perhaps even tens of thousands of people, and yet the force-free way hasn’t seemed to have “gone viral” in the same way. Just last night, someone mentioned teaching a puppy to sit by pushing her bottom down to the ground and saying “Sit!”

Facts:

1. Dogs, and even very young puppies, already know how to sit.

2. What people seem to want to do is teach them to “sit on cue.”

3. Physically pushing and bending an uncomprehending friend into a different position while repeating a word they don’t know the meaning of is not the best way to accomplish #2.

As we have explained in many articles in WDJ, it’s incredibly easy to teach a dog or puppy to sit on cue and there are many ways to go about it. You can “capture” the sit (mark/reward every time the dog happens to sit), “lure” her into a sit and mark/reward, or “shape” the sit to look like the precise type of sit you want.

Using force – even just a gentle push on an adorable puppy’s back end – isn’t necessary to teach a dog to perform behaviors on cue. WDJ’s Training Editor, Pat Miller, wrote a nice piece some years ago about training mistakes – and, from my perspective, attempting to teach sit (or any other behavior) in this way is pure folly.

Puppies Sitting Nicely for Food

Here are a bunch of foster pups who learned to sit on cue just from our mealtime routines.

 

puppies feeding time

 

Download the Full May 2019 Issue PDF

  • Oh Won't You Stay
  • Throw It For Me!
  • Addison's Disease
  • Aggression Unpacked
  • Calcium Is Key
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What is Myasthenia Gravis in Dogs?

English Springer Spaniel dog
iStock / Getty Images Plus/ Nigel_Wallace

Myasthenia gravis in dogs is a relatively rare neuromuscular disease in which there is a breakdown in the transmission of signals between nerves and muscles. Dogs with myasthenia gravis exhibit extreme weakness and excessive fatigue. The condition keeps muscles from contracting, causing affected dogs to become weak; severe weakness is the primary symptom of myasthenia gravis in dogs.

Certain dog breeds are predisposed to a congenital (inherited) form of myasthenia gravis, including English Springer Spaniels, Jack Russell Terriers, Smooth Fox Terriers and Smooth-haired Miniature Dachshunds. However, most cases are acquired and not inherited, so all puppies and dogs are at risk.

In most cases, myasthenia gravis is an acquired problem in adult dogs. It is thought to be the result of a defect in the dog’s immune system that causes antibodies to mistake the dog’s muscle receptors as the enemy – essentially attacking them and preventing them from working properly. This keeps the muscles from contracting, causing affected dogs to become weak. Female and male dogs are equally at risk.

Miniature Smooth Haired Dachshund.
iStock / Getty Images Plus/ NORRIE3699

“For some reason, we often see peaks of acquired myasthenia gravis in dogs between the ages of two and four, and then again from nine to 13 years of age. Unfortunately, pet parents may think it is just the signs of aging of their senior dog, and not seek out proper diagnosis, management and treatment,” says W. Jean Dodds, DVM, and founder of Hemopet, the first non-profit national animal bloodbank.

Puppies with congenital myasthenia gravis are typically diagnosed at six to eight weeks of age.

The symptoms of myasthenia gravis in dogs are progressive and can vary greatly from dog to dog. The most common symptom is muscle weakness that worsens with exercise, but improves with rest.

Megaesophagus: A Common Result of Myasthenia Gravis in Dogs

Often the esophagus is affected in dogs with myasthenia gravis; these dogs have trouble swallowing and drinking. When a dog’s esophagus loses its motility due to myasthenia gravis, secondary megaesophagus can occur. Megaesophagus is when the esophageal muscle relaxes so that food and liquids cannot be pushed down into the stomach by normal muscle contraction. In some situations, this condition may cause the dog to aspirate food and water, which can in turn result in aspiration pneumonia.

Smooth Fox Terrier
iStock / Getty Images Plus/ derevetskaira

Because megaesophagus can cause aspiration pneumonia, it is a dangerous symptom. Feeding dogs with megaesophagus can be done safely, but it requires some extra effort. Make sure that your dog’s head is elevated during feeding (and for 10 to 15 minutes afterward). Your veterinarian will work with you in finding the best way to make sure your dog can eat and drink without the risk of regurgitation or aspirating food/water.

Diagnosis of Myasthenia Gravis in Dogs

If your dog suffers from muscle weakness, alert your veterinarian at once. The vet will perform a complete physical exam and recommend the best choice of diagnostic testing.

If necessary, your dog will receive treatment specific to his needs. These may include the use of anticholinesterase drugs, which help to improve muscle strength by reducing the attack by antibodies on the dog’s muscle receptors.

Unfortunately, there is no prevention or cure for this disease. Treatment and careful at-home care can help dogs with myasthenia gravis maintain a quality of life for a reasonably long time. The more attention paid to the prevention of aspiration pneumonia, the better the prognosis for your dog.

“Myasthenia Gravis does demand patience and commitment from the pet caregiver,” emphasizes Dr. Dodds. “Remember, it is a progressive condition that does not have a cure, but we can try to slow the progression and side effects with the right supportive care and medications for a longer, quality life.”

Highs and Lows

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whole dog journal editor nancy kerns

Anyone recognize that cute Shepherd-mix on the cover? The dog who is demonstrating solid down-stays for author/trainer Nancy Tucker’s informative article that appears in this issue?

That’s Nova, one of the nine puppies I was fostering for my local shelter last fall, and wrote about for the November 1, 2018 blog. Nova was my favorite of the bunch – very keen to interact with humans, very confident and sassy – and the first to be adopted. She landed in a terrific home, with an active young couple who spend tons of time training, playing, exercising, and educating themselves about dogs. Best of all for me, they live close by, so we often get together to walk our little pack of dogs. After a few months in his role as the patient and always playful “Uncle Woody” to the large litter of Nova and her scrappy siblings, Woody is overjoyed every time he sees Nova and her mom; it means a super-fun hike is in the works!

Nova’s placement is also a win for WDJ, since she’s a smart, well-behaved dog and her mom’s proximity and training acuity means they can model and demonstrate for articles in the magazine – often, I hope! Working with them has definitely been one of the highlights of putting this issue together.

The low-light? I have spent weeks testing these ball-throwing devices, to Woody’s delight. He has gotten to play a lot of fetch and is probably as familiar with their various sounds and operations as I am. But I have to watch Woody with tennis balls – the kind that the ball-throwing machines throw the best. Woody, with his great big head and powerful jaws, can pop and chew up a tennis ball the way a big-league baseball player can chew through an entire pack of gum – fast and loud.

Also, he cannot be trusted around those miniature tennis balls; a couple of years ago, he grabbed one away from a friend’s little dog and swallowed it, quick as a wink. At about 6 p.m. on a Friday night, of course! (Long story short, the emergency veterinarian induced vomiting, and it came up and out as easily – if less enjoyably – than it went down.) Those balls are just too small for him to safely be around, so I have been separately holding the three small balls that came with one of the ball-throwing tools away from the rest, taking them out only when I specifically need to test the small balls.

When it came time to photograph all the ball-throwers, I put everything in my car: all the tools and all the balls I had – and I could find only two of the small balls. Ack! I thought I was managing the situation so well! Of course, we could have just lost one – but just in case he actually did manage to find and swallow it, I’ll be keeping an eagle eye on Woody (his appetite and his poop) for a while (and I threw the other small balls away!).

What Causes Aggressive Dog Behavior?

aggressive dog
© Volodymyr Plysiuk | Dreamstime.com

In a world where our canine companions are often referred to as our “best friends,” it’s a puzzle that so many dog-human communications (or should I say miscommunications?) result in behavior that we perceive as aggression – anything from a freeze (stillness), hard stare, growl, snarl, snap, or bite, all the way to a full-on attack.

If you asked your dog, he would likely say that these behaviors are just varying degrees of canine communication. He might also say, “My human made me do it.”

All these behaviors are natural, normal social expressions – the dog’s attempt to communicate something important. Usually, the mildest of the behaviors that people might recognize as aggressive – say, a soft growl – is not the first sign of a dog’s aggression. A growl is actually well along a continuum of escalating emphasis in canine communication. A dog who is uncomfortable will generally start trying to communicate his discomfort with much more subtle behaviors, such as avoidance, yawns, evasion of eye contact, lowered body posture, pulling ears back, and rolling on his back.

These behaviors are an attempt to resolve a situation without having to resort to serious aggression. Perhaps it’s a claim to a valuable resource: “I don’t want to share my bone!” Maybe it’s an expression of fear: “You’re making me very uncomfortable, please go away!” Maybe the dog is in pain: “That hurts, please stop!”

If the lower-key communications fail to accomplish their purpose, the dog may feel forced to escalate to more forceful or violent action (such as attacking and/or fighting) to get his point across.

Some or all of the mild, avoidant behaviors ordinarily precede the dramatic behaviors that most humans would recognize as aggression – yet most or all of these behaviors typically go completely unnoticed by many humans.

Alternatively, if these signals are ignored or misinterpreted, the human may respond inappropriately (“Oh, you want a tummy rub?”), forcing the dog to increase the intensity of his behavior and eventually escalate to serious aggression. Growling, snarling, snapping, or biting may seem like the “first signs of aggression” to many humans, but most other dogs (or experienced observers of dog behavior) would have recognized many earlier signs.

Why Are Dogs Aggressive?

When dogs display aggressive behaviors, it’s rare for humans to consider whatever the dog was trying to communicate. Instead, the behaviors are just considered unacceptable, threatening, and dangerous. Look at it from their point of view, though. Dogs are expected to just deal with all the situations they are put in (including many that annoy, terrify, or intimidate them) and to just get along with every dog or person they meet (including many that annoy, terrify, or intimidate them), without ever expressing their annoyance, fear, apprehension, or discomfort using their natural, normal canine communication tools.

We give them valuable resources – delicious food, delightful chew objects, comfortable furniture – and tell them not to covet those resources or protect them from someone who may try to take them away. If a dog does attempt to keep something for himself (with a growl or a snarl), he’s often punished. Dogs who try to communicate with normal canine language that they need more space, are annoyed or scared, or would like to keep something for themselves, are often labeled “aggressive.”

Consider this idea for a moment: Dogs are often forced to escalate – from mild growls, a stiff posture, and hard eyes to a lunge and a snap or worse – because we just don’t listen!

Granted, we can’t know for sure exactly what the dog is saying. As the supposedly more intelligent species, though, and with a better understanding of dogs, we can usually extrapolate something pretty close to the dog’s intent. And if we have an idea about what he’s trying to say, we can respond appropriately and take steps that will reduce the intensity of his communication, rather than forcing him to escalate.

The better we humans are at listening to and understanding “Doglish” the more our dogs will be able to communicate in ways that are less threatening to us while still succeeding in getting their needs and wants addressed.

snarling dog
Don’t punish this snarl and “hard look” – these are important early warning signs of the dog’s extreme discomfort. Dogs who have been punished for behaviors like this are apt to bite without warning the next time. Instead, de-escalate. Put some distance between you, decamp for a less stressful space, and start trying to figure out what triggered his distress. © Juan Jose Tugores, Dreamstime.com

Types of Aggressive Dogs

There is no universally agreed-upon scientific list of aggression labels. Various sources offer various names for different types of aggression, and those labels are constantly changing. There are, however, many commonalities. Below are descriptions of some of the most frequently seen presentations of aggression and the dog’s usual motivation for displaying each type.

For the purposes of this general discussion about aggression, I won’t be discussing specific solutions for each situation in which a dog might display aggressive behavior, but rather, the broad strokes of the most effective approach.

If you are challenged by your dog’s aggressive behavior, I strongly urge you to seek the assistance of a qualified force-free behavior professional who can help you create and implement an appropriate behavior management and modification program.

Fear-Related Aggression

This is by far the most commonly seen type of aggression, and one that humans often responds to most inappropriately. Generally, when a dog shows signs of fear and aggression, she is trying to compel those near her to move away; she needs more space to feel safe.

Many humans assume that a dog who is fearful will choose avoidance rather than aggression – and in many cases, that’s a correct assumption. If, however, a fearful dog is trapped, or has been trapped in the past, she may take a “the best defense is a good offense” approach, especially if there is a history of punishment for her agonistic signals. Keep in mind that “trapped” can include being on leash, being followed and cornered when she tries to retreat, or simply feeling confined in a small enough space that she is uncomfortable (such as your living room).

To make matters worse, it’s natural for humans to try to comfort someone who appears afraid – but this is often exactly what the fearful dog does not want, especially from a stranger or from someone who may have punished the dog in the past.

The first thing to do with a dog who seems to be aggressing out of fear is to give the dog a little more room – to put more space between the dog and the suspected fear-inducing stimuli. Then, start putting a counter-conditioning and desensitization plan into place, with the goal of changing how the dog feels about the stimuli.

Pain-Related Aggression

Every animal control officer knows that when you go to pick up an injured dog that has been hit by a car, you muzzle her first, because pain can easily cause even the nicest dog to bite. Dogs who are in pain generally don’t want to be touched and may show signs of aggression in an effort to get people or other animals to leave them alone.

What many owners don’t realize is that even less obvious pain can be significant contributors to a dog’s propensity to bite. Arthritis, spinal problems, sore muscles, gastrointestinal issues – there are numerous “invisible” conditions that can cause or contribute to a dog’s aggressive behavior.

An aging dog with increasing arthritis pain may begin to growl at approaching children because she knows from past experience that they may fall on or try to play roughly with her. “You’re making me very uncomfortable,” she says. “Please don’t come any closer.” A protective parent, outraged that the family dog would growl at the child, physically punishes the dog, adding to her pain as well as her anticipation of punishment when children approach, thus increasing the likelihood of her becoming more aggressive toward children, not less.

A far better solution: Any time you suspect your dog may be experiencing pain – or for any senior dog, or any dog who hasn’t been seen by a veterinarian for a while – arrange a veterinary examination and consultation as soon as possible. Ideally, your veterinarian can diagnose a condition and prescribe medication to alleviate the dog’s pain. Also, if necessary, use some basic management tools (such as baby gates, crates, or locked doors) to protect her from the unwanted, sometimes inappropriate, attentions of children.

Play Aggression

There is a significant difference between aggressive play and play aggression. Aggressive play is normal and acceptable, as long as both dogs are happily participating. This can include growling, biting, wrestling, chasing, body slamming, and more.

When things go wrong, it turns into play aggression. This can happen when one participant becomes uncomfortable with the escalating level of arousal and tries to signal that she wants to tone things down. If the other dog fails to respond to her signals and continues to escalate, she may aggress in self-defense, in an effort to stop the action. While she is often blamed for starting the fight, it is, in fact, the other dog’s fault for failing to respond appropriately to her request to back off the level of arousal.

The first step toward a solution here is to make sure you are pairing compatible playmates, and monitoring the play, giving both dogs a cheerful time-out when arousal levels are escalating to an unhealthy level.

Possession Aggression

My clients are often surprised, but soon nod in agreement, when I tell them that possession aggression, also called resource guarding, is a natural, normal behavior. If you lock your house when you leave, you are resource guarding! It is also an important survival strategy. In the wild, if you don’t protect your valuable resources, you die.

There is a tragically flawed and arrogant belief among some humans that they have the right to take anything away from their dog any time they please. Some misguided trainers even encourage clients to practice taking their dogs’ food bowls away so the dog learns to accept it. Wrong, wrong, wrong! Our dogs should trust that we won’t challenge them for valuable items, and we need to teach our dogs a voluntary “Trade” behavior, so we can safely ask them to voluntarily relinquish something when we need them to do so.

Take time to convince your dog that more good things happen when humans are near their food bowl and other good stuff, rather than teaching her that you are an unpredictable threat.

Predatory Aggression

Although the result can be devastating for the victim of predatory behavior, this is not true aggression – it is simply grocery shopping. Food acquisition behavior involves a different part of the brain and different emotions from true aggression.

It can be a challenging behavior to modify, but it is possible, depending on the intensity of the behavior, and the ability of the owner to manage the dog’s environment to prevent reinforcement for the behavior. The person also must make a commitment to doing the behavior modification work.

Redirected Aggression

This behavior occurs when a dog is highly aroused, but thwarted from addressing the object of her arousal.

Fence-fighting is a classic example. Unable to reach the dog on the other side of the fence, the dog may redirect aggressively in frustration to her own canine companion on her side of the fence, or to her own human, who is attempting to intervene in the barrier conflict. To avoid setting up the conflict situation, management is important. If intervention is needed, do it from a distance, to avoid being the target of a redirection.

Social Aggression

This is today’s term for what used to be called, unfortunately and inappropriately, “dominance aggression,” as a result of a serious misinterpretation of canine behavior. This label applies to situations where there is conflict between the wishes of the dog and her human(s), often where the human attempts to physically manipulate or control the dog (the phrase “manhandling” comes to mind!). A classic example is the dog who growls or snaps when the human tries to pull her off the sofa or bed, or push her into a crate.

As the supposedly more intelligent species, we should be able to get our dogs to want to do what we want them to do, rather than physically force them. Need your dog to get off the sofa? Toss a treat on the floor. Teach her an “off” cue. Teach her to go to her mat on cue. Teach her to target to your hand, or to an “X” on the wall made of blue painter’s tape. There are lots of ways to invite your dog to move where you need her to without using physical force.

Other Types of Aggression in Dogs

This is by no means a complete list of the various aggression labels. Others in common use include protection aggression, maternal aggression, territorial aggression, barrier aggression, and idiopathic aggression. What you call the behavior is, in many ways, less important than how you interpret and deal with it.

If your dog displays aggressive behavior, get help from a qualified force-free behavior professional who can help you create and implement an appropriate behavior management and modification program. Modifying aggressive behavior can be challenging. Your behavior professional will educate, encourage, and coach you, and support you when you’re feeling discouraged.

As stated by a meme that has been making the rounds recently, “Remember, your dog isn’t giving you a hard time – he’s having a hard time.” Stay strong, stay positive, understand and empathize with your dog’s hard times, commit to a behavior modification program, and you will be best able to help her overcome her challenges.

What Are the Most Aggressive Dog Breeds?

Go ahead: Google “aggressive dog breeds” and see what you get. The lists will be all over the place, from wolf hybrids, to the Tosa Inu, to Bull Terriers and German Shepherds, Rottweilers, Rhodesian Ridgebacks, Boerboels… I could go on and on.

Most of these lists make the mistake of confusing size and strength with aggression. Still, the Schipperke (at just 12 inches and about 15 pounds) is listed on one insurance company blacklist, and I found the Basenji (16 inches and about 24 pounds) on another list. While large, powerful dogs are capable of inflicting greater injuries on a human, there is absolutely no rhyme or reason to the listing of any breed as inherently “aggressive.”

For sure, there may be some breeds that are more heavily represented in dog bite, mauling, and fatality statistics. There are a number of reasons for this. Some breeds get listed as “dangerous” a result of just one highly publicized event. After a woman was killed by two Presa Canarios in San Francisco in 2001, the previously little-known breed immediately began appearing on “aggressive dog” lists.

Some breeds are just big and scary-looking. Other breeds are present in greater numbers in the pet-owning population, and thus are more likely to be represented in general bite statistics. Then there is the whole question of breed-identification; these days anything with a big head is likely to be identified in bite statistics as a pit bull-mix, even if it’s a Boxer mix or some other big-headed breed. And even if it’s a Lab/pit-mix, it will still likely be listed as a pit-mix rather than a Lab-mix.

Finally, certain breeds and types of dogs may be more appealing to – and more likely to be adopted or purchased by – people who are drawn to the idea of having an aggressive dog and who therefore elicit and reinforce aggression.

Of course, if a Rottweiler bites you, there’s a good chance you’ll be injured worse than if a Pomeranian bites you, and the big dog will be perceived as more aggressive because he has the potential to inflict more damage. But aggression is about behavior, not size, potential, or breed.

Keep in mind that behavior is always a combination of genetics and environment. A dog representing a breed that has been bred for guarding, placed in an environment that reinforces aggressive behavior, will indeed, become very aggressive. But, placed in an environment that reinforces sociability, he may end up well-socialized and friendly. And a dog who has been deliberately bred for sociability can be placed in an environment that reinforces aggressive behavior and end up very aggressive.

The bottom line is: breeds are not aggressive or friendly, individual dogs are.

Pat Miller, CBCC-KA, CPDT‑KA, is WDJ’s Training Editor and author of Beware of the Dog: Positive Solutions for Aggressive Behavior in Dogs.

Addison’s Disease in Dogs

rottweiler
There is quite a long list of dogs who are at a higher-than-average risk of developing Addison’s disease, including Rottweilers, but the condition can afflict a dog of any breed.

Addison’s disease is often called the “great pretender.” The symptoms can be chronic, vague, and masquerade as other illnesses. The initial diagnosis is often missed and only discovered after other diagnostic avenues have been exhausted. In any dog that has waxing and waning signs like decreased appetite, weight loss, diarrhea, vomiting, or just general “poor doing,” Addison’s should be on the differential diagnosis list. This is especially true in breeds such as Rottweilers, Great Pyrenees, and Portuguese Water Dogs.

Addison’s Disease and the Endocrine System

The medically descriptive name for Addison’s disease is hypoadrenocorticism, referring to inadequate adrenal gland secretion.

The adrenal glands are part of the very complex endocrine system, which is a chemical messenger system that helps regulate and modulate the function of the dog’s organs.

The endocrine system begins in the brain, at the hypothalamic axis. The brain releases chemical signals, which, in turn, start a cascade of other actions. The brain secretes corticotropin-releasing hormone (CRH), which stimulates the pituitary gland to secrete adrenocorticotropin hormone (ACTH), which normally stimulates the adrenal glands to make and release cortisol hormones into the blood.

The small, peanut-shaped adrenal glands are positioned just above the kidneys. They are divided into two areas: the cortex (outside) and the medulla (inside). Each part releases different substances when cued to do so by the ACTH.

The adrenal medulla produces catecholamines, including adrenaline, norepinephrine, and small amounts of dopamine. These hormones are responsible for all the physiological characteristics of the so-called “fight or flight” response.

The adrenal cortex produces a variety of steroidal hormones, including mineralocorticoids (which help maintain electrolyte balance and blood pressure) and glucocorticoids (including cortisol, which helps regulate body metabolism). Without these hormones, all sorts of body functions will go awry.

How Addison’s Disease Develops in Dogs

Addison’s disease occurs when the adrenal glands or brain axis are not functioning properly. It can be divided into two categories: primary and secondary.

In primary Addison’s disease, the problem is the adrenal glands themselves. In the case of 75 to 95 percent of Addisonian dogs, the problem begins when the immune system damages the adrenal glands so that they can no longer release their important hormones In a small subset, only the glucocorticoids are affected. This is called atypical Addison’s.

Secondary hypoadrenocorticism occurs at the level of the brain. Trauma, infection, inflammation, and cancer can all cause abnormalities in the axis. These cases are not common. A much more likely cause of secondary Addison’s disease is when a dog has been given steroids long-term for problems like allergies or autoimmune disease, and the steroids are suddenly withdrawn.

When a dog is given supplemental steroids, the body downregulates its own production of these steroids. When the supplemental steroids are stopped suddenly, the body does not have time to adjust and produce more. This causes a crisis, but it is not permanent. This reaction is why long-term steroids must always be weaned slowly.

Symptoms and Diagnosis of Addison’s Disease in Dogs

The symptoms of Addison’s disease can be insidious and chronic. A dog will have episodes of gastrointestinal upset with or without weight loss. Sometimes weight loss is the only sign, or there are very few symptoms other than occasional listlessness. It is easy for these to go unnoticed.

These vague symptoms are why many dogs are diagnosed only when they experience an Addisonian crisis. In this case, the lack of steroids and/or mineralocorticoids causes an acute, life-threatening collapse with severe electrolyte imbalances, dehydration, and gastrointestinal disease. A dog may seem normal then suddenly start vomiting, experiencing bloody diarrhea, and collapse. This is an emergency. The signs are not specific to Addison’s disease and can represent other conditions such as anaphylaxis or acute hemorrhagic gastroenteritis; these conditions, too, call for emergency medical care.

The diagnosis of an Addisonian crisis is made based on clinical signs, history, signalment (age, breed, and sex), a physical exam, and bloodwork. Typical Addison’s disease causes highly characteristic changes found on the dog’s blood tests. Electrolyte changes are present including very elevated blood potassium in conjunction with a low sodium level. A sodium:potassium ratio should be evaluated by your veterinarian. A ratio of less than 27:1 often indicates Addison’s.

Other changes can include low blood sugar (hypoglycemia), mildly elevated kidney values, and a normal white blood cell count in the face of illness. In an ill or stressed dog, the white blood cell count should be elevated, indicating a bodily response. However, in Addisonian patients, this doesn’t occur. It’s important to know that these changes are in typical hypoadrenocorticism, in which both cortisol and mineralocorticoid levels are low.

In atypical Addison’s, only cortisol is involved. Bloodwork may be mostly normal. Electrolytes will not be affected. Sometimes the only change is a low blood sugar and a lack of elevation in white blood cells. This makes recognition and diagnosis a challenge.

The definitive test for both typical and atypical is the ACTH stimulation test. In a patient with Addison’s disease, the glands cannot secrete cortisol and mineralocorticoid because they are not functioning or are atrophied.

The patient must stay at the veterinary clinic for several hours while the test is administered. An initial baseline cortisol level is drawn. This is typically very low in Addisonian patients. The dog is then given an injection of substance that mimics ACTH in an effort to stimulate the adrenal glands; the cortisol levels are checked two hours later.

In a patient with hypoadrenocorticism, the adrenal glands do not respond and the “post-cortisol” level is close to zero, confirming the diagnosis. Note that the blood samples for this test must be sent to an outside laboratory; this is not an in-house test.

Addison’s Disease Treatment for Dogs

Initial treatment will depend on whether a dog is typical or atypical and on the severity of the condition at presentation.

If a dog is diagnosed while stable, initial treatment is with oral steroids, usually prednisone. This is true for both typical (deficiencies in cortisol and mineralocorticoids) and atypical (deficiency of just steroids). Due to the many side effects they can cause, therapeutic steroid dosages should be adjusted over time to the lowest possible dose.

addisons disease in dogs treatment
Given as a monthly injection, DOCP is the preferred and most convenient treatment for Addison’s.

If a dog is atypical, steroids are usually sufficient treatment. It is important to note that some dogs who initially present with atypical Addison’s will progress to the more typical disease, eventually requiring the mineralocorticoid supplementation, as well.

There are currently two options for this: an oral supplement (fludrocortisone acetate) and an injectable one (desoxycorticosterone pivalate, better known as DOCP).

Fludrocortisone acetate, the less expensive choice, is given daily. It has both mineralocorticoid activity and some steroid activity, so certain patients can be maintained on fludrocortisone only. However, monitoring is more intense for the first 18 to 24 months, and in some cases, it just doesn’t work well enough. The side effects of the glucocorticoid portion can also be very intense at higher doses (increased drinking, increased urination, panting, weight gain, and restlessness).

The better alternative is DOCP, given as an injection every 25 to 30 days. This is by far the preferred treatment option because of the long duration between injections and how well it works. With veterinary instruction, it can be administered at home. However, DOCP can be very expensive for big dogs. Also, it is intermittently unavailable, so in those cases, fludrocortisone acetate may be chosen as the initial treatment.

The treatment is different for a dog who is diagnosed due to an Addisonian crisis – unfortunately, this is not uncommon. A previously healthy dog may suddenly develop copious vomiting, hemorrhagic diarrhea, shock, and collapse. This is an emergency and requires immediate veterinary attention. Dogs are usually suffering low blood pressure, low blood sugar, and seriously unbalanced electrolyte levels.

Large volumes of intravenous fluids will correct low blood pressure and electrolyte abnormalities. A physiologic dose of a short-acting steroid (Dexamethasone-SP) is given. This will not interfere with necessary testing to confirm the diagnosis (while other, longer acting steroids will). Blood sugar is often low during a crisis and should be treated as well. Dextrose will be added to the fluids.

Patients will be in the hospital anywhere from two to five days, depending on the severity of shock and electrolyte imbalances. Serial bloodwork is performed to monitor sodium and potassium, as well as blood glucose. Electrolytes may be checked as frequently as every four hours in the initial 24- to 48-hour period. Blood pressure is monitored closely. Treating an Addisonian crisis can be costly and stressful, and the prognosis is always guarded.

Monitoring Dogs with Addison’s

Once stable, dogs with hypoadrenocorticism must be monitored closely at home. Symptoms of impending crisis can be as subtle as shaking but also may include vomiting, loose stool, decreased appetite, and weakness. Any time a stressful event occurs and the body naturally requires more cortisol, a dog is at risk for a crisis. Ask your veterinarian for information about increasing steroids in these times.

Serial bloodwork is needed to titrate treatment. This usually includes electrolyte monitoring, as well as periodically checking a full blood panel. Electrolytes are usually checked every three to six months initially; once they have normalized, the tests can be less frequent.

A full metabolic panel is recommended every six months. When a patient is maintaining well on DOCP, the dose is usually sufficient to manage symptoms for the rest of the animal’s life.

A Note About Whipworms

The canine whipworm, Trichuris vulpis, is a nasty parasite that lives in the large intestine. The symptoms of a whipworm infection can be very similar to Addison’s disease and include weight loss, vomiting, and bloody diarrhea. Further, they can cause the characteristic bloodwork changes of Addison’s, particularly the telltale sodium:potassium ratio.

If you are in an endemic area (ask your veterinarian, or see the informative prevalence maps at capcvet.org/maps), keep your dog on a monthly prevention that protects against whipworms. Sentinel, Trifexis, Interceptor Plus, and Advantage Multi all contain ingredients that treat whipworm infections. Check the label or product insert on your dog’s flea/tick and heartworm preventatives to see if they contain an agent that specifically targets whipworms.

A Pitch for Pet Insurance

Health insurance for dogs is always a good idea, but even more so if your dog is diagnosed with a chronic illness such as Addison’s disease. Since it is such an excellent mimic, it make take several lab tests before the correct diagnosis is made. Even if the diagnosis is made quickly, follow-up testing, medications, and monitoring can quickly add up (no pun intended).

Most pet insurances decline coverage for pre-existing conditions. With a diagnosis of Addison’s disease, it is likely too late to find a company that will pay for diagnostics and treatment. If your dog was insured beforehand, however, insurance can be a literal lifesaver.

As a veterinarian, I wish more owners would consider pet insurance. Making a diagnosis under even the best of circumstances with unlimited funds can be challenging. It is even more so when finances are a major factor. Of all the chronic diseases, Addison’s is one of the most easily treated and managed. Unfortunately, the cost of diagnosing, treating, and monitoring can be a burden, and sometimes hard decisions must be made. “Financial euthanasia” can be especially traumatic for everyone involved.

Dogs with Addison’s disease can be tricky to diagnose, time-consuming, and test-intensive in the initial stages. Pet insurance can alleviate this strain dramatically. In this situation, we all win: the veterinarian, the pet owner, but mostly importantly, the patient!

Addison’s Disease Prognosis

Treatment is lifelong, but the prognosis for Addison’s disease is positive overall. The limiting factor for many dog owners is the cost of repeated laboratory testing in the first 12 to 18 months. DOCP also can be expensive for large dogs. Once the disease is stabilized, however, dogs often enjoy a good quality of life with minimal follow-up testing and less expense.

After nine years in emergency medicine, Catherine Ashe, DVM, now works as a relief veterinarian in Asheville, NC.

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