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How to Engage Your Dog’s Brain When Activity is Restricted

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Like most Kelpies, Kai would rather be running off-leash than standing around just looking at and smelling stuff. But since I've removed that option for the time being, until his broken leg is healed and strong again, slow leashed walks are the only kind he's going to get - and as it turns out, he actually enjoys standing around and looking at and smelling stuff.

few days after Christmas, my husband and I found ourselves facing a challenge: Our Australian Kelpie, Kai, was romping around the yard when suddenly he came up three-legged lame, putting no weight whatsoever on his left hind leg. Kelpies are an intense, high-energy herding breed (I describe them as “Border Collies on speed”), and though Kai is pretty good about short-term confinement, I suspected that he had torn his cranial cruciate ligament (CCL), which might require weeks of restricted activity.

It turned out that the injury was even worse than I initially thought. Radiographs showed a shattered calcaneus bone (pronounced “cal-kay-knee-us”) in his hock – and my veterinarian informed me that its repair would require the services of an orthopedic surgeon. 

 By some miracle, I found a veterinary practice with an orthopedist who could take Kai’s case right away. We rushed Kai to the clinic, an hour away, and returned home. The surgeon called later that afternoon and said the surgery had gone well, despite the fact that she had never seen a calcaneus shattered that badly, requiring wires and many tiny screws to put it back together. She added that I could pick up Kai the next day – and he would need six to eight weeks of restricted activity. 

I suspected that such a lengthy period of inactivity would put even our good-natured, well-behaved Kelpie to the test. I began digging out all the enrichment toys I own and researching all the stationary exercises I could think of. 

Three weeks and three bandage changes into his incarceration, Kai’s leg is healing well. I’m feeling confident enough in the canine-brain-tiring tactics I’ve undertaken to keep Kai quiet that I’m sharing them with you! I hope you don’t have a medical reason to have to put them to use – inclement weather that keeps you cooped up would be a “better” reason! – but if you do, at least a few of these tools and stratagems should work for you and your dog. 

WORK FOR FOOD

I’m a big fan of food-dispensing toys that can be given to bored dog to roll around, such as the Roll-A-Treat Ball. But in this case, food-dispensing toys that move are verboten, since the patient is not supposed to move around much. Fortunately, there are plenty of options for stationary treat-containing toys and puzzles:

* Kong. The classic Kong toy, made by the Kong Company, is a well-established favorite of many dog owners and trainers. While some people stuff them with kibble and glue it in place by stirring in some peanut butter or yogurt, I like to stuff Kongs with Kai’s moist, home-cooked food, which doesn’t work well in most treat-dispensing toys. 

To make extracting the food take even longer, fill the Kong with moist food (canned, home-prepared, or rehydrated) and freeze the stuffed Kong overnight. 

* Toppl. Made by West Paw Design, the Toppl is another chew-resistant toy that can be stuffed with a home-prepared moist diet. The opening to these toys is wider than the opening of a Kong, which makes it easier to stuff, clean,and for the dog to lick out all the food. 

Kai works to solve a 12-year-old wooden puzzle, Nina Ottosson’s “Dog Tornado”. The dog must use his nose, and/or paws to turn the discs, which reveal treats in hidden compartments.

* Puzzle toys. Swedish native Nina Ottosson had two Bouvier des Flandres that she used to train and show, but after having two babies a year and a half apart, she found herself trying to devise toys to keep her dogs occupied with less actual time to exercise them. She crafted wooden puzzles that contained hidden compartments that held treats, which could be revealed and eaten by a dog who pushed levers, lifted blocks, turned discs, and so on. 

Ottosson’s inventions worked so well, she started a company to manufacture and sell them. Eventually, she licensed Outward Hound to make plastic versions of her designs. I have a tub full of Ottosson’s original wooden puzzle toys, as well as some of the newer plastic ones from Outward Hound – and Kai is getting to play with all of them! 

A decade ago, puzzle toys for dogs were a rarity. Now the market is flooded with them, some quite innovative. The mental exercise they provide can be as tiring as physical exercise. Do an internet search for “dog puzzle toys” and see what you get! 

You can see my review of Nina Ottosson’s original wooden toys in the June 2008 issue of WDJ (“A Puzzling Activity”). For other interactive toy suggestions, see “The Best Food-Dispensing Toys,” WDJ April 2019.

There are many retail sources for snuffle mats, but it’s actually easy to can make one yourself. Here are some instructions for this, thehonestkitchen.com/blog/diy-make-your-dog-or-cat-a-snuffle-matt/

* Snuffle mats. These are another of my favorite relatively new additions to the dog-training world, available in astonishing variety. If you feed dry food, you can feed your dog’s meals in these. I put multiple small treats in mine for Kai to find and he loves the search.

* Slow feeder bowls. These are bowls with deep grooves or other obstacles so your dog has to work to get the food out. I’ve just ordered one for Kai. For a review of some different designs, see “Savor the Flavor,” WDJ November 2020.

* DIY Muffin Tin. Kai’s having fun with this one too – and I can feed his meals in it. Just take a muffin tin, drop treats or smear moist food in the cups, and cover the cups with tennis balls. Then let him work at removing the balls from the cups to access the treats underneath.

COGNITION GAMES

Games that require a lot of mental problem-solving are perhaps even more tiring for dogs than they are for us! Fortunately, they can be just as entertaining as they are exhausting for a convalescing dog.

If your dog becomes adept at learning colors, shapes, and object discrimination, you may at some point be able to tell you to select the yellow square or the blue ball from a stack of toys. Deanne Davenport is shown here working with Kai to recognize colors at “Cognition Academy” at Miller’s training center in Maryland. Photo taken pre-pandemic and well before Kai’s injury.

* Color discrimination. Yes, you can teach your dog to recognize colors! Then you can ask him to touch a target of a specified color or fetch a ball of a certain color. Dogs see blue and yellow well, so those are the best colors to work with. It’s thought that dogs see other colors as shades of brown, so you could add one more color (and perhaps black and white). 

Start by asking your dog to “Wait,” then present one color (I use colored paper plates). If I was teaching a dog to identify blue, I’d say “Blue,” pause, and then say “Touch” (you want “Touch” to be the cue, not “Blue”). 

Next, repeat the same process with yellow. 

After several repetitions with each color individually, present both colors and ask him to touch one color. (If he heads for the wrong one just whisk it away, reset, and try again.) At first, position the one you’re going to ask for a little closer to your dog. As he is consistently successful at touching the color named, gradually present the two choices more evenly, until he can select the correct color without the offset assistance. 

* Shape discrimination. Teach your dog the word for a few basic shapes. The process is the same as with colors. Present one shape first and name it, then present the other, and then the two shapes together, offset at first. 

* Object discrimination. Dogs can also learn the word for some basic items, whether it’s a variety of toys (such as ball, disk, bone, or toy alligator). Kai is pretty good at indicating named objects, such as Ball, Roomba, and Stuffy. 

No surprise – the process is the same as above. Present one object and name it, then present the next object, and then the two objects together, offset at first. 

For more detail on how to teach these cognitive discrimination games, see “Are Canines Cognitive?” WDJ October 2017.

This dog is learning to copy an active behavior (walking around the cone). Because Kai needs to be as inactive as possible, he’s been learning to copy more stationary behaviors , such as “cross your paws”, nodding “yes” and shaking his head “no”

* Imitation. Teach your dog to “do what you do,” imitating movements such as a bow, a yawn, or a comically vigorous “no” nodding of the head. This is a much more complex cognitive challenge – and more brain-tiring than the discrimination exercises. 

Here’s a simplified description of how to train this: It’s easiest if you start with a behavior he knows well on verbal cue. Let’s use “spin” as an example. Have your dog wait in his starting position while you demonstrate the human version of a “spin.” Return to your start position, say “Copy!” Pause for a second or two, then give his cue for the “spin” behavior. Repeat up to three times in a row. 

Then, repeat the process with a second behavior – say, backing up. Ask him to wait in a starting position, back up yourself, say “Copy!” pause, and then give his cue for “back up.” Repeat this a few times. 

Then, repeat the process with a third behavior. 

Finally, start randomly alternating these until he starts to offer the correct behavior on the “Copy” cue without needing the verbal cue for that behavior. 

Note: If you continue with the same behavior too many times in a row, he will just think “Copy” is a new cue for the behavior you’re demonstrating, rather than a new training concept.

 For a more complete description of the imitation protocol, see “Train Your Dog Using Imitation,” WDJ October 2013.

* Counting. This is definitely an upper-level cognition game. A protocol for teaching “quantity recognition” was developed by noted trainer Ken Ramirez, the former executive vice president of animal care and training at the Shedd Aquarium in Chicago, now the executive vice president and chief training officer with Karen Pryor Clicker Training. Here’s a very simplified explanation of Ramirez’s protocol:

The dog’s “answers” of one through five are made available to him in the form of small boards that are sprinkled with one, two, three, four, or five black dots. The “question” is put to the dog in the form of a tray, upon which are arranged one, two, three, four, or five items. The dog is shown the tray, laden with objects, and then asked “How many?” The dog indicates the number of items he saw on the tray touching the board with the same number of dots. 

To see a couple of videos of Ramirez discussing this brain-game, see kenramireztraining.com/media/.

TRAINING GAMES

Zeus, a shelter dog from Ohio, is learning how to do a “chin rest” in one of Pat Miller’s Behavior Modification Academies. A dog’s understanding of this behavior is very helpful for low-stress, low- or no-restraint veterinary examinations.

You can also enrich your dog’s restricted environment by training him to do a variety of stationary behaviors, such as:

• Paw Targeting: Teach him to touch his paw to a designated target.

• Nose Targeting: Teach him to touch his nose to a designated target. (When he knows paw and/or nose targeting you can teach him more low-activity fun stuff like pushing a talking button or light button, and playing a kiddie piano.)

• Say “Yes” and “No” – Teach him to nod his head up and down and to shake his head left and right.

• Wait: Teach him to not eat a treat within reach until you give him permission.

• Balance a Treat on Your Nose: This is easiest if he already knows “wait.” Then start with the treat at the bridge of his nose (between his eyes). As he grows more advanced at holding still, you can gradually move the treat toward the tip of his nose.

This is a great opportunity to work on useful cooperative-care procedures such as the Bucket Game (featured in “Care to Cooperate,” WDJ February 2021) or a “chin rest,” where he’d rest his chin on a rolled-up towel while you perform an exam or husbandry procedures. Both a chin rest and the Bucket Game are performed with the mutual understanding that you will stop the procedure if he looks away from the bucket or lifts his chin off the towel. He learns that you will not proceed until he gives the “okay to continue” signal of looking at the bucket or resting his chin again. 

JUST WALK

Though Kai is not supposed to exercise, he does have to walk to go to the bathroom several times a day. So I figure that we might as well make use of these bathroom breaks as best we can, with a calm, quiet, slow on-leash walk.

Accustomed to ripping through the woods and across the fields at top speed when we go hiking, Kai is tolerating these short walks and I am loving them. It amazes me that he likes to stand like a statue and just look at and smell our surroundings, for minutes at a time, only his nostrils moving as he picks up scent and watches for movement. He has always enjoyed scent work, and it’s fun to watch him detect and follow a scent. Sometimes I go outside before I take him out and “salt” our walking path with treats for him to find.

REWARDING TIME

Whatever you do to pass this quiet time with your convalescing dog, rather than agonizing over the pain of managing her restricted activity, try to breathe deeply and enjoy doing enrichment activities with your dog. You might find out later that this was some of the most rewarding time you’ve spent together. 

5 Simple Steps to Improve Your Dog’s Quality of Life

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Clipping your dog's nails is much easier if she's got white nails, which allow you to see the "quick" inside. Those of us whose dogs have thick, black nails have to guess where the quick is and take more care not to clip it.

If there were something simple you could do that would make your dog much happier, you’d do it in a flash, right?

Every day I see owners going to great lengths, and spending small fortunes, to indulge their dogs. That’s why I’m perplexed when I see those very same folks ignoring the smaller, easy-to-rectify issues that diminish their dog’s daily quality of life, causing anything from mild irritation to major pain. 

Marketers may sell us on products for our dogs: expensive food and treats, beds, and toys. But some of the most important keys to our dogs’ happiness are free or low-ticket items that nobody advertises – so they can often go under the radar. Here are five simple things that you can fix to greatly improve your dog’s quality of life: 

1. LONG NAILS. Ready for the hard truth? You need to be clipping or grinding your dog’s nails every three weeks. 

I know. Your dog hates it. You hate it. So you put it off, and ask the vet or groomer to do it whenever your dog goes in. Unfortunately, unless you’re in the habit of monthly visits, that’s not nearly enough. 

Here why too-long nails have a giant impact on your dog’s day and can become a true emergency:

* Each step your dog takes on those nails puts inappropriate pressure on the toes. That makes them twist unnaturally – and hurts! 

* The pain causes dogs to compensate by adjusting their posture. That can cause orthopedic issues and can eventually be the source of hind-end weakness/soreness.

* Long nails give dogs even less grip on slippery wood or tile floors, increasing the likelihood of muscle strain. This is particularly hard on older dogs who’ve lost muscle tone. Imagine trying to walk across an ice-skating link wearing shoes with a smooth sole. That’s how your dog feels on slippery floors!

With a few exceptions, if a dog’s nails are clicking on the floor, it’s time. And if you’re thinking that’s not true for your own dog because clipping that short would absolutely mean cutting the quick, I have more bad news for you. The quick – the nerve inside the nail that bleeds when you cut it – grows along with the nail. So if you let the nails get too long, the quick gets too long, too. 

The only remedy is an intense phase of even more frequent trimming! The quick always recedes back from the edge of the nail. After six weeks or so of weekly careful trimming, you should have a quick short enough that you can keep those nails from clicking on the floor. 

Maybe you’ve always known how important nail trimming is but want to leave it to the “experts” because you still remember that time you cut a nail too short and made it bleed? My own “Aha!” moment came when my daughter interned at the local vet, and let me know that there is not some kind of perfect nail magic happening in that back room. Instead, they do their best, and sometimes they mess up. The difference is that you don’t see it happen and they use styptic to stop the bleeding. It’s a pain-free experience – but only for you. 

That information was huge to me. I realized I was putting my dogs through extra stress so that I could avoid the drama myself. I decided that if this is to be done every three weeks, surely it’s better for my dogs to experience it with me, in the comfort of their own home. So, I worked on this skill; it’s not brain surgery! I’m pretty good at it now, and you can be, too. Here’s what will help:

* Make sure your clippers are sharp! Dull blades compress the nail before they cut through and so they can cause discomfort, even when the quick isn’t nipped. As soon as you notice that they require more force to snip through your dog’s nails, buy some new ones. I buy new clippers regularly since I clip a lot of dogs.

* Try a grinder! I was always afraid of these but have come to adore this option which leaves the nails with nice soft edges and avoids the possibility of cutting the quick with a single snip. (For more tips on using grinders, see “Grinders vs. Clippers,” WDJ October 2020.)

* Take the time to condition your dog to the experience. Pair even just the sight of the clippers or the sound of the grinder with something delicious. Dried fish! Feta cheese! Do that as frequently as you have to until you see that happy head swivel at the sight of the tool. Next step: Touch the tool to the paw, then treat. A baby-step approach can work wonders. While this may sound like it will take tons of time and patience, each interaction like this takes only seconds.

* Start small. Remember there’s no rule that you have to do all of the nails at once. With some dogs, I do two nails and call it a day. 

I implore you to work on this. You’ll screw up at first and you’ll want to give up. Stick with it because the more you do it, the better you get. And once you are skilled, you’re going to hit that every-three-weeks mark. It may never be your favorite part of the day, but you and your dog can get to the point where you don’t dread it. The sooner you get brave and learn to deal with this, the sooner your dog will find walking to be much more comfortable. 

Some owners enjoy hearing the jingle-jangle of their dog’s ID tags; some use the sound to help keep track of their dog’s whereabouts in the house or yard. But consider that your dog may be irritated by the constant noise.

2. CLINKING TAGS. Does the sound of your dog’s clinking tags ever bug you? Now imagine those tags were around your own neck 24/7, and you had incredibly acute hearing. Sad, right?

Sure, maybe most dogs get used to it. But why in the world should they? There are fantastic products out there that make clinking tags a torture device of the past.

Before you examine those new options, take the easiest step: simply reduce the number of jingling objects. Remove outdated license or rabies tags, and ponder whether you really need that rabies tag. Most counties do not require them as the license itself indicates an up-to-date vaccination history. 

Once you’ve minimized the number of tags, it’s time to make them quieter. One option is to bundle them so that they don’t bang against each other. Plenty of do-it-yourselfers have always done this using rubber bands or electrical tape. Sure, it’s not easy to get to those tags, but if your dog never gets lost nobody will ever need to read them! However, if you’re looking for a cuter option, there are now great little pouches that can slip on, and wrap those tags together in silence. 

Another thought is to take advantage of silicone. You can opt for a silicone ID tag rather than a metal one, or buy rubbery silencers that fit around the edge of the tags. Easily available online, they come in all sorts of colors and in the typical tag shapes. 

Finally, there’s the no-dangling-ID-tag approach. There are slide-on tags that loop over the collar and lay flat. (I use these, with our generic family ID information, for my foster dogs, because I can easily move them from collar to collar.) You can also order a custom collar with ID information either engraved on a metal plate that’s riveted to the collar, or stitched on the collar itself. 

Even if you don’t really want to change anything about your dog’s tags, give mealtime a consideration. I had a client who was perplexed about why her dog was finicky about eating at home, but happily wolfed down the exact same food at the pet-sitter’s house. A little investigation revealed the difference: The pet-sitter used a low plastic plate rather than a high steel bowl to serve the dog’s food,  reducing the noise that was interfering with the dog’s ability to eat in peace! Now that he has a new dish at home that tags don’t bang against, that pup eats normally. 

Many owners find it handy to leave their dogs’ harnesses on all the time, especially for dogs who are difficult to “dress”. This practice not only poses the risk of rubbing a raw place on your dog but also is not as comfortable as being “naked” when he’s home.

3. ILL-FITTING, 24/7 HARNESSES. Harnesses have many uses,  but they must fit perfectly, and in most cases they should not be left on 24/7. 

While it’s easy to get a collar to fit well, a harness is another thing entirely. There are so many contact points – so many spots where, depending on how the dog is sitting, moving, or lying down, there may be rubbing, pinching, and discomfort. When you get a harness, it’s critical to invest the time needed to figure out exactly how it’s supposed to fit. Many manufacturers have posted video instructions on YouTube – those are always worth watching. After that, make sure you check and adjust regularly, particularly if you have a growing puppy.

Even if you have a perfectly fit harness, though, remember that in most cases it is specifically for leash walks. It feels like you need a PhD to get your dog into some of these contraptions, which is one reason people simply leave them on. But … gosh. Would you want to wear that every minute of your life? Many dogs just tolerate this, but why do we ask them to do that if we love them so much? 

4.  MINOR SKIN/COAT/EAR ISSUES. We’ve all had that moment when we discover something on our dog that we should have found earlier: a tick, an infected ear, a mystery cut, a burr tangled deep in fur. No matter what it is, the sooner it’s found, the easier it is to fix. That timing can mean the difference between a simple at-home treatment and an expensive vet bill. More significant is the amount of discomfort your dog had to endure for goodness knows how long!

When your life is busy and your dog is active, though, it’s easy to miss things. The more you groom your dog, the more you have a chance to catch all sorts of things: new lumps and bumps, changes in fur texture, hair loss, parasites, mats that could be painful. 

Whether you use a groomer or not, it’s a great idea to get into a once-weekly home exam routine. I now keep my tools (brush, nail clippers, little scissors, ear cleaner) in a basket near the TV so that when we’re relaxed at night I can slip over and make sure everybody’s in good shape. If I had to walk over and get it, I probably wouldn’t, because I’m lazy! This way, grooming has become a habit and I feel I’m always well aware of each dog’s status – and confident nobody’s suffering in silence.  

All the previous “fixes’ we’ve proposed are inexpensive or free. Providing your dog with regular dental care can be costly – but not as expensive as treating the health problems that neglected dental issues can cause.

5. NEGLECTED TEETH. If your dog’s breath is super stinky and her gums are red, please contact your vet’s office and schedule a dental exam! 

Dental problems not only cause daily discomfort but also can have serious downstream health effects, like endocarditis from a chronic bacterial infection caused by the buildup of dental calculus. Endocarditis is six times more likely to occur in a dog with advanced gum disease as a dog with healthy gums.

Dental problems also cause chronic pain, which can make a dog cranky,  reactive, and/or anti-social. Those of us who work in rescue have seen formerly neglected dogs with dental problems who seemed unfriendly and shut-down transform into seemingly younger, happier, and more engaged dogs after they had a veterinary dental cleaning and extractions or repair of broken or rotten teeth.  

I’m all for indulging dogs with luxuries to make them happy and comfortable, but I think if we asked our dogs, they’d ask us to address the issues above first. It’s the low-hanging fruit of canine quality of life! 

Kathy Callahan, CPDT-KA, the author of 101 Rescue Puppies: One Family’s Story of Fostering Dogs, Love, and Trust, loves to coach people and their puppies into a great pack life. See page 24 for book and contact information. 

My First Dog

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When I was 13 years old, my 19-year-old sister came home with her 3-year-old hound-mix, Frecklebelly (FB for short), and FB’s 10 puppies. My sister, who had moved out/been kicked out at age 16, wasn’t home to stay; she was just there to rid herself of the canines that had proliferated beyond her ability to cope. 

My parents were likely dismayed by this development, but any aggravation they may have experienced would have been lost on me; I was in heaven. Ten pudgy, delicious, freckled puppies to play with! And the return of FB! – who had been a puppy herself when my sister stuffed her in a sack and left home, sticking her thumb into the air and departing for parts unknown with another 16-year-old girl and her dog, Jamaya. (This was 1976 – it was a different world.)

One by one, the puppies found homes. As their numbers reduced, my begging to keep one increased. I promised to support the dog myself; I’d get a job to feed him, if need be. I swore he’d be the best-trained dog on earth. I pointed out that I had always taken care of the family dogs, including FB and Argo, my other sister’s dog, whom she left behind when she went to college. I promised I’d never come home and dump puppies or dogs on my parents. And I committed to taking the puppy and FB with me when I left home.

Somewhere in all that, my mom gave up her resistance. I got to choose my pup from among the last three puppies who hadn’t yet been given away. 

Frecklebelly had spent some time on a cattle ranch where a working Australian Kelpie was the only dog allowed to run free all the time; the rest of the dogs on the ranch were hounds (including FB’s mom) who lived in a big fenced pen and slept in tipped-over steel barrels that were filled with wood shavings; they only got out of the pen when the rancher took them to the mountains to hunt bears or to the slough to hunt wild pigs. The pup I chose came from the half of the litter that resembled the Kelpie enough to declare that they were half Kelpie. I called him Tavi, after the mongoose Rikki Tikki Tavi (from the Rudyard Kipling story of the same name).

I trained Tavi relentlessly with the only methods I had ever been exposed to: heavy-handed, choke-chain-based training. I wish I had known better; he was a smart dog of a working breed, but he would have been incredible if trained with the knowledge I have now. He was well-behaved, although he could be aggressive to other dogs later in life. Again, I know now that if aggression is met with aggression, more aggression ensues. Tavi, thank you for your companionship. You were a good dog; you deserved better. I’m sorry.

How to Help Your Crying Puppy

puppy crying
Photo: gollykim/Getty Images

Gone are the days when standard advice was to ignore a crying puppy. “Ignore him,” we said, “until he stops crying. If you go to him while he’s crying, you’ll reinforce him and teach him to cry more.” That’s horrid advice and I regret that ages ago I was guilty of saying it to clients.

Now that competent, educated dog training and behavior professionals have a much better understanding of the science of behavior and learning, we won’t tell you to ignore your pup’s cries. You must take action when your pup is in distress. That’s what his cries are – he’s communicating to you that he’s distressed – sometimes very distressed. (Note: This does not apply to “demand barking” – that requires a different response.)

While some puppies survive having their cries ignored and grow into normal, healthy adult dogs, others suffer with stress-related behavioral issues for the rest of their lives, including separation anxiety, due at least in part to not having their needs met when they were so desperate for help. So what should you do when your puppy cries? He’s crying for help. Help him.

Why is puppy crying?

When a puppy arrives at his new home, his world has turned upside down. His mother and siblings are gone. The familiar sights, sounds and smells of his birth home are gone – replaced with an alien environment. Even if he came from a responsible breeder who helped prepare him for this life change (sadly, a small percentage of possible puppy sources) the stress of rehoming may still trigger distress behaviors.

It’s critically important to take things slowly. Your pup may have never been alone before, ever. Being left alone now could be horribly traumatic, especially if you ignore his pleas for help. Your best approach is prevention. Assume your pup has never been crated or left alone, and plan on staying near him at first. Even if he has been previously crate-trained, the stress of relocating to your home can contribute to panic attacks.

How to help your puppy

Whether you are faced with a newly-arrived puppy or one who’s been in your home for a while, here’s what you need to do:

  1. Why is he crying. What’s stressing him? After identifying his stressor(s), figure out how to make them go away. (Go to: https://www.whole-dog-journal.com/training/stressed-out/)
  2. Anticipate when he’s likely to stress-cry, and pre-empt the crying by engaging him in some other activity, food toy, or providing company.
  3. Keep him near you, and gradually acclimate him to being alone. Isolation is a huge stressor for a puppy!
  4. Spend time acclimating him to his crate by playing crate games, preferably starting with his first day home (but it’s never too late). (Go to: https://www.whole-dog-journal.com/training/dog-crate-expectations/)
  5. If he is stressed by crating, use an exercise pen alternative (a collapsible wire pen) for confinement.
  6. If you cannot determine his stressors and alleviate his crying, engage the services of a qualified professional force-free behavior consultant to help you, sooner, not later.

How to get a puppy to stop crying at night

A pup’s first night home can be make-or-break time. If he adapted well to his crate during your first-day crate games, you can probably crate him in your room for the night. Do not, under any circumstances, crate him away in a room all by himself. You have to hear him when he cries to go to the bathroom. Get up and take him out. Crating him in your room also saves him from feeling abandoned. If he’s stressed about the crate, use an exercise pen that you can set next to your bed with your arm draped over the edge if necessary, to assure him he’s not alone.

Give him a good bout of puppy playtime before bed, a last bathroom trip and time to settle before the two of you retire for the night. Have his crate or pen where he can see you. A microwave-heated towel can provide comfort for him. He may fuss for a moment or two. As long as it doesn’t escalate and he settles quickly, you can ignore brief fussing. If it starts increase to distress crying, intervene. Hang your hand in front of his crate or into his pen so he has company. Over time (days, weeks) you should gradually be able to remove your hand without causing distress.

The same philosophy holds true for other times, long after your first night is behind you – in fact, for the rest of his life. A distressed, crying dog needs to be helped, not ignored. Figure out why he’s upset, and determine what you need to do to alleviate his stress. Intervene when he’s distressed. He’s crying for help. Help him.

Read Next: Socializing Your Puppy

Are more “pandemic dogs” being returned to shelters?

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BoredPanda.com is a Lithuanian website that publishes articles about “lightweight and inoffensive topics,” including frequent posts about animals. A week ago, the site shared a Facebook post from a British group, “Yorkshire Rose Dog Rescue.” The post included a story supposedly written by an anonymous veterinarian, who claimed he increasingly had been asked to euthanize healthy young dogs that were adopted during the pandemic by people who couldn’t or didn’t train them. The Yorkshire Rose Dog Rescue group concurred, writing in some introductory post that they, too, had been seeing dogs surrendered by overwhelmed owners on a daily basis.

Sigh.

I’m looking for articles or news coverage that might support these allegations – that after a record number of adoptions and fostering in 2020, that people are starting to give up the pets they brought home last year. I didn’t find many.

I found an October 2020 article on the Today Show website that quoted a California rescue group that said they had seen an increased number of dogs who were given up due to pandemic-related financial hardship.

I found a link to a December 2020 Fox News broadcast alleging that shelters in Minnesota were seeing higher numbers of abandoned and surrendered animals, also due to pandemic-related financial hardship.

But I also found articles that alleged that adoptions and fostering are still taking place at a record pace. Sadly, I also saw many articles discussing the fact that puppy mills and backyard breeders have been producing puppies as fast as they can, to meet the pandemic demand.

My own experience, volunteering in a rural Northern California county shelter, is that the intake numbers are down, and “live release rates” (adoptions, fosters, and transfers to other shelters) are up. My local shelter has been increasingly sending animals to shelters in more populated and more affluent areas in the San Francisco Bay area.

Here at WDJ, we’ve tried to meet the needs of new dog owners with an increased number of articles aimed at basic education, especially for puppy training (including here, here, here, here, and here!). I remain hopeful that the increase in adoptions and fostering will contribute to an increase in responsible dog ownership and lower rates of euthanasia.

But I’m curious: What’s your experience? If you work or volunteer in rescue, are you seeing an increase in animal returns or surrenders? Or are dogs still in short supply? If you are trying to adopt, have you found a decrease or an increase in the number of dogs available?

What constitutes a suitable home for a dog?

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Adoptions to families with kids need extra scrutiny, for the safety of all parties involved. Individualized judgments have to come into play! A family with three young boys was this dog's lottery jackpot – but could have been another dog's nightmare.

In last week’s post, I shared the information that I was on the hunt for a dog – searching on behalf of a couple I know. Both husband and wife are athletes who run for fitness and would love to have a dog who could accompany them on runs. But they are also both nurses who have long work shifts, so a dog who lives with them will have to be able to endure a certain amount of time alone at home (nursing not being a work-from-home sort of job!).

The couple lives in an urban area, so when they are at work, their dog will spend most of his or her time in their house, though they have a dog-sitter lined up (their neighbor downstairs, who has a dog I found for him!) and a dog-walker. Both the sitter and the walker will be available to take the dog out for midday breaks, but nevertheless, I know that it’s important to find a dog for them who will be content and comfortable spending time home alone. Of course, any dog can experience an onset of isolation distress – or, worse, separation anxiety – upon rehoming. But my goal is to find a dog with a mellow, “happy to accept my fate” bent to his nature.

Then I saw a social media posting for a local dog who needed a new home. He had been surrendered by a family who were having some sort of housing crisis, and had been living on a chain in a fenceless backyard for some months. The family’s neighbor, heartbroken over the dog’s plight, had begged the family to be allowed to find the dog a new home, and they agreed it would make their own lives easier to not have a dog as they try to find their next housing situation.

Well, it was a lovely dog, just three years old – but one of a highly active breed. I sent an inquiry to the woman who had possession of the dog, asking about the dog’s personality, and one thing she said made me more than a little interested: She mentioned that, despite the fact that the dog had very little shelter and was living in mud and filth, was never allowed in the house, and got very little attention from his former owners, he never barked! “Ooh!” I thought. That sounded like a good candidate! We made arrangements to meet a day later so I could meet the dog. I told her I’d be happy to foster him so I could get him neutered, tested for heartworm, and get to know him better. After all that, I would know better if he was in fact a good candidate for the couple I had in mind, or, if not, I would commit to finding a more suitable home for him.

She brought the dog to my home the next day, and I was even more interested. He has a lovely temperament, was very neutral with my dogs – neither excited nor threatened by Woody’s rambunctious play overtures or Otto’s grumpy admonitions to “Hold still while I sniff you!” The dog was quite predatory around my chicken pen, but he took my admonishments to leave them alone in stride. The most concerning behavior I saw was how he ran along every inch of my fenceline, multiple times, looking through and over the fence as he loped along, stopping every once in a while to inspect its height or a low spot underneath it. I wouldn’t expect much different from the sort of hunting breed he is, but mentally, I was already warning his new owners to not let him off-leash for months, until they got to know him very well and had a good recall on a long line.

Alas: Neither I nor the couple I was hoping to place him with made the cut. The woman who was rehoming him made the decision to place him with another family she knew, because – and here is the kicker – their home is on five acres of land. She loved seeing him run, and imagined that with five acres, he’d live out his life running around that acreage in perfect happiness.

Factors that go into dog placement decisions

My take on that decision? I was bummed, both for the couple I had in mind and for the dog. I have no way of knowing this, and I’m not going to follow up just to see if I’m right, but I’d bet $100 right now that if the dog did, in fact, go to the five-acre family, within a week’s time he’s either going to be in the wind (lost, ran away) or in a small fenced and covered pen. Not many people I know have five securely fenced acres, and without such a fence, that dog is going to be going, going, gone!

This particular placement decision was up to an individual’s discretion, so it’s not a great example. But this seemed like a good opportunity to talk about placement criteria, which, in every case, seems like it should come down to more than just one factor.

Shelters and rescues sometimes have a formal list of rigid placement rules that they follow when considering prospective adopters; in other cases, shelters or rescues may have internal guidelines as to what constitutes a “qualified home,” but they will make exceptions for the right family/dog combination.

My local shelter gives prospective adopters a questionnaire that is intended to spark a conversation with the adoption counselor and the prospective adopter. There are no hard-and-fast “wrong answers” that people can give in response to these questions that will eliminate their chance of adopting any dog – but some of their answers may call for a discussion about whether it’s appropriate for them to adopt a specific dog.

Some dogs can be trusted or taught to stay within a boundary fence that they could easily slip under or through – and other dogs would see this as an opportunity to run off and see the world! A rule that says a prospective adopter must have a “fenced yard” does nothing to qualify or disqualify this dog and this fence as a match.

For example, while I’m aware that some shelters require adopters to have a fenced yard – which eliminates many great prospective placements! – my local shelter will weigh their preference for adopters to have a fenced yard against the size, age, breed type, and personality of the dog. If the prospect is a little senior couch potato, for example, a litterbox and/or leashed walks will be just fine!

My local shelter is perhaps most concerned about making appropriate placements to families with babies or toddlers. They worry about tiny dogs in families with toddlers – but will make an exception if they meet the child or children in a “get acquainted” room with the prospective dog, and see that the kids are very gentle, have self-control skills, that the parents are paying close attention and giving alert guidance to the kids, and so on. They won’t place anxious dogs or excitable dogs who have little self-control with a family with small kids – and will decline to adopt any dog to a family whose child seems bent on hurting a dog, or engaging in activities that are sure to make a dog defensive. That said, you won’t find these policies written down anywhere; they just try to have a conversation with parents about what they are observing and try to make it clear that it’s their job to make safe placements for the sake of all parties concerned.

My two cents: Hard-and-fast rules don’t allow for appropriate individualized placements.

In a placement competition, who should get the dog?

Then there are the cases where a shelter or rescue has to decide, to the best of their ability, which of several prospective adopters should get the dog.

Some groups have a first-come, first-served approach, where the first qualified adopter would get the dog. Others may send someone to conduct home inspections, and make their placement decision based on whose home and family really seem to suit the dog best. That’s amazing, but not possible for many rescues.

I have known people who have become frustrated about “losing” in what seemed to be an adoption competition – some, more than once! – and who relieved their frustration by just buying a puppy, either from some Craigslist/backyard breeder or a pet store that’s stocked weekly with new “inventory” from puppy mills. Yuck!

In some cases, the rationale for their rejection was ridiculous. I know someone who was turned down by a shelter to adopt a cat, because they own an intact female dog! This person is a long-time steward of an uncommon breed of dogs, and has been breeding these dogs in an incredibly careful, responsible, and limited manner for over 20 years, but Nope! No cat for you! That’s nuts.

I don’t want to cast aspersions on anyone who is involved in having to make adoption or placement decisions; I assume that anyone involved with rescue has a vested interest in making safe and appropriate placements for the “recycled” dogs in their care. And I don’t want to encourage people to express the incredibly insensitive statement that some shelter is making it harder to adopt a dog than a baby. It shouldn’t be too easy to adopt, and families should have to meet some sort of minimum standards for the dog’s health and happiness. But sometimes, these criteria are too rigid. Where is the middle ground that results in the best placements?

What are some of the rules or standards that shelters or rescues have for prospective adopters that you consider very sound or ridiculous?

Finding the Perfect Dog For Friends and Family

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A month after Eli and Cole met, they were already great partners and pals.

For the past few years, my son’s former sports teammates and co-workers have been a great source of adoptive homes for dogs in my local shelter – or, I should say, my local shelter and I have been a great source for them! My son is 28 and most of his friends are in the same age range. They almost all live in the east San Francisco Bay Area. One by one, they have been getting married, buying homes, and/or starting families. And many of them start their families with a dog! These are educated urban professionals with good incomes – and most of them are athletes who love having dogs to run with them, so they are looking for athletic dogs.

I live about 150 miles north of San Francisco. In this rural area, we tend to get a wide variety of dogs in the shelter. Like every shelter, we get a lot of “bully breed” mixes (which may be any thing with any amount of American Pit Bull Terrier or American Staffordshire Terrier in its pedigree) and Chihuahua-mixes. These are the types that are most frequently produced for sale by backyard breeders or accidentally bred by irresponsible owners – and the ones that are wildly over-represented in shelter populations across the nation.  But in this area, Labradors are also very common, as are Australian Cattle Dogs, German Shepherds, all types of hounds, and mixes between all of those. (In fact, DNA tests say that my 13-year-old dog Otto, adopted as a 6- to 7-month-old pup from my local shelter in 2008, contains all of those breeds except hound and Chihuahua! Ha!)

This north-state/Bay area dog connection started with the puppy who became my son’s dog, Cole, in late 2013. At the time, my son was in college and attending a semester abroad in Spain. But he had already signed a lease for a room in what would be his first dog-friendly rental house in Davis, California, where he would be returning to college in February – and, while in Spain, he frequently spent time looking at the pictures of adoptable dogs in my local shelter; he couldn’t wait to get home and adopt his first “own” dog. I kept getting emails: “Mom, could you go to the shelter and look at A546792? He looks nice!” and “Mom, what do you think about #A546804? How old is she? What breed do you think she is?” In this way, he spotted Cole before I did, from thousands of miles and an ocean away!

Cole was about 12 weeks or so when I spotted him in my local shelter in late 2013. Someone had surrendered his American Black and Tan Coonhound mother, him, and a female sibling. The female was sick when surrendered and died in the shelter’s care. Cole’s dad may or may not be a Coonhound, but he’s 100% Good Dog.

I went to the shelter on my son’s behalf to meet two pups he had spotted: a black Lab-mix and Cole, a mostly black pup who had come into the shelter with an American Black & Tan Coonhound mom and an all-brown sibling. I immediately knew that the hound pup was “the one.” I snatched him up and fostered him for the six weeks or so it took my son to get home from Spain and learn for himself that Cole was “the one.” Cole is smart and sensitive, goofy and affectionate, playful and (mostly) very obedient. My son’s done a great job of training and managing him, too – such a great job, that the silky black dog with the long ears has been a terrific ambassador for my local shelter. Everywhere my son takes him, people say, “Hey, where did you get your dog? What breed is he? He’s such a good boy! And so handsome!”

Strangers and random passersby are on their own, but my son lets his friends and coworkers know that if they are looking for a dog, know what they want in a dog, and are willing to be patient, his mom will help them find one.

Over the past few years, since he graduated and joined the workforce, I’ve found dogs for several of my son’s co-workers. At one point, he worked in a dog-friendly office and, after asking about Cole’s origins, two of his co-workers asked me to help them find a dog. For a while in 2015/2016, there were three canine alumni of the Northwest SPCA coming to work every day in an office tower in Berkeley, California.

Valentine and Stella at home.

The first of my son’s co-workers to ask for dog-finding help was Mapolo, who was looking for an “easy first dog,” as he had never owned a dog before! I found a mellow and affectionate 4-year-old Greyhound-mix whom I thought would be perfect. Mapolo adopted her on February 14 and named her Valentine – awwww! She was a big hit in the office, as she is a total love sponge, but she had one funny quirk: She would not enter the elevator on her own power. Just flat out would not do it. Mapolo got a certain amount of grief as he had to lift the big dog into the elevator several times a day until she got over her apprehension.

That was nearly six years ago. Early last year, in a new job, a new home, and along with his fiancé, Erin, Mapolo asked me if I could help him find a younger, more athletic dog to join the family and relieve Val from jogging duty. I found them a hilarious and mischievous young Shepherd-mix named Stella, who fit right into the family, worming her silly way into even Valentine’s heart. Repeat customers!

Valentine and Ava

After Val joined the pack in the Berkeley office tower, I heard from another co-worker, Russell (who was also one of my son’s sport teammates). He and his then-girlfriend (now wife) were looking for an active dog who wouldn’t hurt or intimidate Jin’s older, small dog. I found them two candidates – an adorable but slightly over-the-top mini-Aussie and a calmer but larger Lab-mix. They drove up to meet both dogs but couldn’t decide, even after spending all day Saturday in the “get acquainted” area at the shelter with one dog, and then the other. They went home to think it over, and then called me with their choice: the Aussie. I pulled her from the shelter, and spent the rest of the week getting to know her and starting some basic training. They adopted her the following weekend and can’t imagine life without her now. She even has her own Instagram account: “Ava the Dog” @avaforcitycouncil.

Wayne enjoying the wilderness.

Here is a crazy story: My son has changed jobs, but in January 2020, I received an email from another guy he worked with at his old job in Berkeley. Alexander was looking for a fun, active dog, not too big and not too small. I knew just the one! Just days before, I was at the shelter, taking photos of adoptable dogs for the shelter website, and I saw this absolutely gorgeous terrier who had come in as a stray weeks before. I thought he was just stunning, and looked a lot like a purebred Jagdterrier. I sent his pictures to Alexander, who was definitely interested. Since I was going to the Bay Area to visit my son and pick up a relative from the airport there in a few days, I offered to pull the dog and bring him down with me. Alexander met the dog and that was that. Yay! Another adoption. Alexander named the dog Wayne.

Sam and Ladybird

Just six months later, I got another “Can you help me find a dog?” email. Like Russell, Sam is one of my son’s former teammates – and was hoping I could help him find a dog as nice as Cole and Ava, whom he had met many times after sports practices. In the midst of the pandemic, I hadn’t been to the shelter for months, but I looked over the prospects and saw… another Jagdterrier? What?! I made an appointment to go meet the dog (pandemic-era new rule) and fell in love with her. She looked nearly identical to the terrier I found for Alexander but seemed a little sweeter, less macho. I sent her pictures and a report to Sam, and BAM – he made an appointment to meet her, made the drive up, and made the adoption. He calls her Ladybird.

I’m trying to get Sam to meet up with Alexander so Wayne and Ladybird can meet; I want a picture of them together! Where did these TWO uncommon breeds come from, and how did they both end up as unclaimed strays in the middle of nowhere (as I affectionately call the place I live)?

Mapolo has since changed jobs, but now he, too, is promoting my dog-matching skills to co-workers. In October, I received an email from one of his new co-workers, requesting help with finding a nice family dog. Like every other family in the pandemic, stuck at home with no school to attend, his three kids were desperate for a dog to play with. Given that they’d be home for untold months, the time seemed right. I spotted a darling little hound-type who seemed to fit the bill, and BOOM- another adoption. They call him Arlo.

Sweet Arlo

At the moment, I have a request for an athletic dog for a couple of my son’s former teammates – an actual couple, husband and wife. Like my son, both Adam and Claire have represented the U.S. (and won gold medals) in international competition, and they are looking for a dog who can accompany them on runs. But both Adam and Claire are also nurses and they work long hours, so the candidate dog also needs to be able to chill at home without tearing the house down. Making that task a bit easier: Sam and Ladybird live in the flat downstairs and will be their backup dog walkers. I have every confidence I will find the perfect dog for them.

Say, I should start charging for this service, shouldn’t I?

Would Your Dog Enjoy Dog TV?

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couple of dogs wacthing streaming tv program , movie or series in bed cozy together

The last time a barking dog came onscreen during family movie night, did your dog perk up? Most of us have seen our dogs respond to something on TV. Maybe they stare intently at the screen for a bit or even jump up and bark. But these days, rather than waiting for the random moment to interest their pup, owners can actively seek out programming designed specifically for dogs. Some swear by it, saying it keeps their dogs calmer and less destructive. However, it’s not for every dog.

The high end of doggy viewing is “Dog TV,” a subscription service offering a library of options—from relaxing to stimulating—available 24/7. A selling point is the adjusted color and sound to suit the dogs perfectly, making it, in theory, more engaging for them. (The color looks a bit “off” to humans, as a result.) Owners can opt to show their dogs anything from a peaceful beach scene where one dog ambles along next to the surf to an active scene where many dogs are running around having a ball together.

Other dog-oriented options on the market include dog DVDs or YouTube, filled with content for dogs. However, many folks note that their dogs enjoy “regular” TV just as much. With higher voices and plenty of motion, kids’ shows seem to be a particular favorite with many dogs. Soccer games, horse races and even fishing shows also have their canine fans!

While it’s great that some dogs can enjoy screen time, there is a reason for caution. Each dog will react differently, and it’s essential to be thoughtful before leaving a dog alone with that TV on. While some owners find that the relaxation scenes on doggy TV calm their anxious dogs, others say much of the content is wildly overstimulating and often frustrating. Remember, if your dog practices barking wildly at dogs onscreen, you might expect more of that behavior in real life.

One of the best uses for dog TV can be to get your dog used to otherwise foreign sights and sounds—at a nice, non-threatening volume and distance. For example, if you’ve got a puppy but can’t get out and about to socialize him or her properly at the moment, you can carefully expose the pup to new things (the big city! a firetruck! a chicken!) in the comfort of your own home. Add treats to cement the positive feeling.

If you want to check out doggy TV, here’s the best approach: Sit with your dog as you watch together. Start with the relaxing scenes that show a dog from far away, and perhaps a bird, while lovely spa-like music plays. Does it seem to engage your pup without adding stress and intensity? Then that may be a great thing to add to your life together.

Featured Image: damedeeso/Getty Images

Winter Walks With Dogs

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Nova (second from right) struggles with "stay." She's so intense! Tiny Sampson excels at stay – as long as he's not at risk of getting run over. Then he'll take cover, and who can blame him, with such big friends?

My very favorite part of social media is seeing photos and videos of dogs having a good time outdoors. Lately, I’ve been seeing a lot of snow dogs: playing in it, hiking through it, skijoring over it! It looks great! But I’m glad I don’t live in a snowy area. The winter in my part of California gets cold, but not so cold that you need special clothes to enjoy a walk outside; a regular hoody and perhaps a down vest will do!

Walking in winter – my local version of winter, anyway – is absolutely my favorite. It’s not yet hot, the rattlesnakes are dormant, and the leash restrictions for the bird nesting season haven’t yet gone on. I live at the north end of the Sacramento Valley, in the middle of the great Pacific Flyway, a major north/south route for migratory birds, from Alaska to Patagonia. At this time of year, the skies and fields are full of migratory waterfowl, including millions of snow geese and small numbers of spectacular sandhill cranes – always exciting to spot.  And we nearly always see year-round residents like the great blue heron, osprey, and several species of owls and hawks.

I’m extremely lucky: I live close to the Oroville Wildlife Area, about 11,000 acres of land alongside the Feather River and surrounding man-made bodies of water fed by the river: Lake Oroville and its “afterbay,” a shallow lake where freezing cold water from the bottom of Lake Oroville is warmed slightly before being released into nearby rice fields and fruit and nut orchards. Much of this land was mined for gold in the previous century using floating dredges as long as a city block. The tailings were mined again in the late 1950s and early ’60’s for the giant earth-filled Oroville Dam. What’s left of that land, much disturbed and still distinguished by piles of rock tailings and pockmarked with ponds that have filled in the holes left by the dredges, was finally protected for wildlife and recreation. There are two types of habitat in this area: some lowland savannah along the river, dotted with ancient oaks and filled with deer; and, farther from the river, open, grassy or marshy plains (depending on how close to the afterbay you are).

Cole, my granddog, joined us for a walk near the New Year. His sit-stays are impeccable; I’m so proud of my son’s dog-training skills! Otto and Sampson think it’s too cold to sit, but they will hold a stay forever.

Dogs are allowed to walk off-leash in this area, except for during the nesting season, March 16 through the end of June. Actually, I start leashing up, or at least asking the dogs to stay on the trail, at the end of February, as some birds are already looking for nesting sites in the tall grass. When the leash restrictions go on, I generally start taking my dogs elsewhere to walk, usually on the dirt roads alongside the river in the more forested land, where nesting species are in trees, not on the ground. But, for as long as we can, I most enjoy these big-sky, open, grassy areas, and the dogs do, too.

Off-leash skills and good manners are requisite

Wherever we walk, we always practice a couple of skills that I feel are essential for any dog walked off-leash. If a dog hasn’t yet learned these skills to a pretty high degree of reliability, they don’t get to be off-leash. The two most important ones are a rock-solid recall (immediate and enthusiastic), and a good understanding of “off” or “leave it” (to forestall any interest in pursuing cattle on the other side of the wildlife area fence, or investigating that rattling noise coming from the grassy margin of the trail). We also practice a “distance sit” – parking their butts in place, either to allow someone to pass us on the trail (which happens incredibly rarely – again, I said I’m lucky to live here!) or to keep them still while I assess a possible threat (like a rattlesnake on the trail) or temptation (such as a deer crashing through the underbrush nearby). I ask them to practice each of these skills at least once per walk, and ALWAYS have high-value treats with me to generously reinforce these behaviors.

This is just one of the reasons we say Betty is a hippo-mix. Besides her predilection for mud, she’s built like a hippo!

My usual walking partners include Nova, a former foster pup who was adopted by a young woman who is now a good friend; tiny Samson and his owner Leonora, who was fostering Samson’s litter for our local shelter while I was fostering Woody’s litter (and we both kept our favorite from the litter); and sometimes my friend Loran, who adopted a middle-aged hippo-style bully-breed mix, also adopted from my local shelter. (Another friend who owns one of my long-ago former foster dogs and two other dogs recently moved out of state.)

Of course, we were recently also accompanied by my foster dog Coco, who found a lovely home in Idaho and is doing very well there.

All of these dogs, of various ages and sexes and breeds, get along splendidly with my dogs, though there are behavioral differences between them. Otto doesn’t really socialize with the others on walks. He isn’t unfriendly, just splendidly indifferent to what the other dogs are doing. The behavior is very much mirrored by the older dogs: Chaco the Kelpie-mix former foster who moved away, and Betty the hippo/bully-breed mix. These three have always kept their own counsel. If they are approached at a high rate of speed by a younger dog, they tend to step out of the way and look the other way. (Although, in his increasingly arthritic old age, Otto will roar if someone bashes into him.)

Woody, who is now five years old, has long been the ringleader of the playful puppy set. He’s always down for running and romping and leaping and chasing and wrestling with anyone else who wants to do all that stuff. He’s been the “fun uncle” for countless foster pups who came and went, as well as the trail guide for our longer-term foster pups (including Odin, the former mangey pup who had to have an eye removed, and of course hoppy, happy little Coco). He and Nova, who is now two years old, still race and wrestle with wild abandon as we walk.

At not-quite five pounds, twiggy, long-legged Samson’s goal on these walks is mostly to not get run over. He’s figured out that the best way to do that is to either stay at our heels, or follow Otto very closely; those are safe spots. Samson shines at the sit-stay; we can leave him behind, sitting, until he’s practically a speck in the road (well, he’s very small). When called, he comes as fast as his twiggy legs will go; it’s fun to watch.

Some of the fields in the wildlife area are planted with a grassy mix of native plants to create bird nesting habitat and forage. This grass will be over the dogs’ heads another month.

The distance-sit and stay is Kryptonite for Nova. At just over two years old, she’s still developing control over her impulses, and she gets squirmy and anxious if left behind, even if it’s just 20 feet or so from us. Her recall is super sharp, however. If it involves running, she’s excellent at it! Maybe these skills are age-related. Coco also never quite got the hang of either sitting or staying away from us. If she heard any cue that had once offered an opportunity to earn a treat, she’d come running and sit in front of us. Well, there are worse things!

Happy winter walks to you, too!

Can Dogs Eat Horseradish?

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Photo: AleksandarNakic/Getty Images

A favorite condiment for humans, horseradish gives everything from steak to deviled eggs an extra kick and boasts some potential benefits for people. The root vegetable may protect against cancer, improve respiratory health and possess antibacterial properties.

We want our pups to live long and healthy lives, so it’s only natural to wonder if giving them a bit of horseradish with their regular diet could help them.

Can dogs eat horseradish?

Technically, yes, dogs can have horseradish, but you’ll want to file giving it to them under, “just because you can doesn’t mean you should.”

“I do not recommend giving your dog horseradish,” says Dr. Rachel Barrack, DVM, CVA, CVCH of Animal Acupuncture. “Most dogs don’t enjoy spicy foods, and it can cause gastrointestinal upset and irritation of the mouth, nose, throat and digestive system.”

Vets don’t use horseradish to treat anything either, but if you want a second opinion on whether or not it’s OK to intentionally give your pup any, consult with them first.

Can dogs eat horseradish
Planting horseradish in your garden? Here’s what to know if you dog eats some. Photo: CasarsaGuru/Getty Images

What happens if my dog eats horseradish?

If you accidentally drop a piece of steak with horseradish on it on the floor, chances are, your dog will be fine. It’s not toxic like other foods that dogs might help themselves to, such as chocolate or grapes. But lookout for signs of gastrointestinal discomforts, such as diarrhea, as well as allergic reactions.

“Keep an eye on your pet after they consume horseradish,” Dr. Barrack warns. Stomach issues and allergic reactions could happen shortly after consumption. “Allergic reaction signs could include diarrhea, vomiting, hives, itchiness, swelling of the face, ears, lips, eyelids or earflaps and sneezing.”

If you think something is wrong, call your veterinarian to schedule a check-up to rule anything out. Should you want to feed your dog some of your favorite foods, opt for something like pumpkin, avocado or oranges instead.

Read Next: The Many Benefits Of Pumpkin


Lost Dogs – How You Can Help

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Lexi before being lost.

Over the past few weeks, I found myself following posts detailing the stories of two lost dogs – and the extraordinary lengths that people went to in order to find them. Yes! They were both found, and, weirdly, both were found on Monday, Martin Luther King, Jr. Day! I don’t know what the odds are for all lost dogs being found, but I don’t think they are great, so these stories both made me very happy, and also, provided a great opportunity to share some pointers on what to do and what not to do when searching for a lost dog.

The first case was an 11-year-old Lab-mix named Lexi. The dog belongs to Brandi Solomon, a resident of Fairfield, Connecticut. Brandi and Lexi were visiting a friend’s farm in nearby Wilton, Connecticut, on December 7. As they walked around the farm, Lexi happened to touch her nose to an electric fence wire, and the shock made her bolt in fear. She ran quickly away and disappeared into the woods.

Since she doesn’t live in Wilton, and the dog was in unfamiliar territory, Solomon began to post “lost dog” notices on every social media site possible, trying to enlist people in the area around Wilton to keep an eye out for her dog. Fortunately, many communities today have any number of “lost and found pets” pages on Facebook, and Nextdoor.com, and for whatever reason, many people in the area got caught up in the search for Lexi. A number of Wilton residents banded together and offered their assistance to Solomon – including Pilar King, the wife of one of our publisher’s executives! King, an ardent dog owner herself and a long-time resident of Wilton, helped organize a small army of volunteers who put up “lost dog” fliers and went door to door, asking if people had seen the dog.

And many people had seen Lexi! There were numerous sightings of the dog, but every time she was spotted and people tried to call her or approach her, she would take off in a panicked run and disappear into the freezing, snowy weather again.

Lexi after being found

Finally, a group called CT Dog Gone Recovery Volunteer Network offered their help, and essentially told Solomon that while it was great she had so much engagement from the community, the people who were trying to catch the dog were going about it all wrong. Solomon was told to instruct people who wanted to help that they should not try to approach or call out to Lexi, but to take photos of the dog (if they could) so that Solomon could determine if the dog was Lexi, and try to keep the dog within sight while contacting Solomon, who would come very quickly.

They also recommended that if someone saw Lexi in a yard or near a house, to put a can of tuna or dog food or other pungent food for her outdoors and to retreat indoors. It was hoped that once Lexi realized that a particular location was a safe place to eat, she would return.

One Saturday, January 16, Jorge Velazquez, a resident of Stamford, Connecticut, was shopping when he took a flier from Robin Harrington, a volunteer from the CT Dog Gone Recovery Network, who was searching for Lexi there. Velazquez had lost his own dog for a few hours back in November and remembered how upset he was; he couldn’t imagine losing his dog for six weeks. He prayed for the dog’s return – and when he got home from the supermarket, there was Lexi in his backyard. He did what the flier told him to do; he backed away slowly and contacted Harrington and Solomon with a description of the dog. Because Lexi had been spotted nearby, traps had already been set up in Velazquez’s neighborhood. They came and set up a trap in his yard, and they baited it with a prime rib bone. Trail cameras were used to monitor that trap and the others.

On January 18, after 42 days on the run and over 100 miles traveled, Lexi entered the trap in Velazquez’s yard and began to bark in alarm. Thanks to the trail cameras, Harrington and Solomon learned of Lexi’s capture as quickly as Velazquez heard Lexi barking. Solomon came as quickly as possible – and said that Lexi recognized her within seconds and they had a joyful reunion. Lexi had lost a little weight and had some scrapes, but seemed otherwise unharmed.

After Lexi was found, Solomon asked for donations to CT Dog Gone Recovery Volunteer Network, as thanks for all their help and loan of trail cameras and traps. More than $6,000 has been donated to the volunteer group already.

Another crazy/lucky story

Lucy before being lost.

Here in Oroville, California, for the past week, I had been following another lost dog story. Lucy is a white German Shepherd Dog who had been burned in September’s Bear Fire. She had been found with burns all over her body in the fire zone by search and rescue volunteers, who took her straight to a veterinary clinic. She stayed at the clinic for months, recovering from the burns. Her owners had been found, but their home and property had been burned completely. When Lucy was well enough to be released from veterinary care, she had to spend a few weeks at a local animal shelter, as her owners were still working on making a secure place for Lucy and their other dog and temporary housing on their property for themselves.

The shelter staff saw that Lucy was responding poorly to spending time in the shelter; she was getting stressed and her condition started declining. The shelter asked the community whether someone could foster Lucy for a few more weeks, until her owners were ready and able to bring her back to their property. Chelsea Bornheim stepped up to volunteer, and was soon posting social media photos of a happy, relaxed Lucy reclining on her sofa.

But three days later, a new disaster: As Bornheim walked Lucy down her rural driveway to get the mail, two large stray dogs, escaped from a neighbor’s property, bolted out of the woods and attacked Lucy, who was wearing a collar and a harness. The foster person had Lucy’s leash attached to a fanny pack containing her phone and wallet. In the melee, as she fought off the attacking dogs (getting severely bitten on both arms), she released the leash and Lucy ran away in a panic, dragging the fanny pack and the leash behind her.

Animal control officers were summoned and the attacking dogs were found. (It turns out that they had a previous record of attacks and were supposed to have been in a locked enclosure. Following this attack, they were seized by animal control.) But Lucy was nowhere to be found. Anguished and injured, Bornheim immediately spread the word about Lucy’s escape on social media, and, as in Lexi’s case, over the following days, many people joined the search.

After someone boating on Lake Oroville spotted a white German Shepherd on the banks of the lake, a request was made for anyone with a boat who could help search miles of lake-front in the area. A local marina owner offered the use of his rental boats, for free, and a number of volunteers. Another area person who uses drones for search and rescue joined the search and spent days scrutinizing the area where Lucy had last been seen from the air. A helicopter pilot volunteered his time and craft for the search. Lucy was spotted a number of times, but in each case, she ran when she realized someone was trying to call or approach her.

Lucy after being found.

Bornheim spent all day on MLK Day searching the woods and lake shore with other volunteers, and went home that night discouraged and exhausted. She took a shower – and when she emerged, she saw Lucy at her back door. Eight days after she had been attacked and had run away, she had found her way back to her foster person’s home! Bornheim feels it’s a miracle that the dog did this, considering she had been in Bornheim’s home for only three days before the attack. (Fortunately, Bornheim had left her yard gates open, in hopes that Lucy might find her way home.)

Like Lexi, Lucy had lost some weight and one of her bite wounds from the attack was infected, but she’s been seen by the veterinary clinic that nursed her burns and they think, with some antibiotics on board, she’s going to be fine. Lucy’s foster provider and her owners are all completely over the moon.

Tips for finding a lost dog

  • Spread the word fast and wide. Get as many people you can get to help spread the word, too. Use fliers, and posters, but also, harness the great power of social media. Ask people to share your posts on every “lost dog” page in every online forum they know of. Give a good description of the dog and use a large, clear photo. Check the posts frequently as some people will ask questions or post news, rather than calling the search organizer. Put up new posts at least every few days, to let people know of any new sightings, so they keep looking.
  • Ask people if they know of volunteer organizations who can help, too. Scout groups may be willing to help distribute fliers; church groups or youth athletic groups may want to help, too.
  • Instruct people to not try to catch the dog. Many lost dogs are terrified and respond to the sight of a stranger trying to approach them as yet another threat. Some will begin to flee as soon as they see someone notice them. Tell people to not call the dog or approach it with intent, but to try to get photos or video of the dog (to confirm it’s the right dog).
  • If the dog is lost in an urban or suburban area, ask people in the community to check their Ring or other security cameras for sightings.
  • If the dog has been spotted and its identity can be confirmed, try to place baited traps in that area – with the caveat that someone must be near enough to quickly remove the inevitable raccoons, skunks, and other critters who may be caught in the trap before the dog is, and reset the trap.
  • Don’t give up! Dogs are sometimes lost for weeks and months before they are found. There were many people who were dubious about an 11-year-old indoor dog surviving for long in a cold New England winter, but Lexi was gone for six weeks and hadn’t lost a dangerous amount of weight!

Download The Full February 2021 Issue PDF

  • Dog Food Myth-Busting
  • WDJ’s Approved Dry Dog Foods for 2021
  • Care to Cooperate
  • To Buy or Adopt?
  • Punishment vs. Interruption
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