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To Buy or Adopt a Dog? What You Should Know

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After a walk on the beach, the author's purebred Rottweiler puppy Leela hangs out with mixed-breed rescue Timber and a client's Goldendoodle puppy, Kobe.

got my first dog, a stray that I begged my mother to allow me to keep, when I was 9 years old. It was 1964, on Long Island, New York. I had been playing in the cul-de-sac with friends when this little black and tan puppy came bounding up to us. We became best friends, and I was hell-bent on keeping her. My parents were separated, and my mother wasn’t in the best of moods, but my siblings convinced my mother to let me keep her. We needed each other and on some level my mother knew this. 

Since then, I’ve never been without at least one canine companion – usually I have two or three – and they’ve all been strays, hard-to-place dogs from a rescue organization, or given to me by a frustrated client. In more than 50 years (56 years, actually), I have never once searched for a dog; they showed up in my life when they needed a home. Heck, even my horses, cats, and chickens have all been rescued animals. 

But now, at the age of 65, I did something that I’ve never done before: I bought a purebred puppy. 

WHEN BUYING A PUPPY MAKES SENSE

I had a number of reasons for my purchase; it wasn’t an impulse buy. It probably surprised people who know me as a lifelong proponent of rescuing pets, but I’m actually very supportive of well thought-out and responsible purebred puppy purchasing – that is, under a set of specific conditions:

The buyers know what they want and are familiar with or at least knowledgeable about the type of dog they want. In other words, they’ve done extensive research on health issues, appearance and coat maintenance, temperament, energy level, and typical behavioral traits for their desired breed. 

■ The flip side of this: If a person admires how a certain breed of dog looks, but isn’t familiar with and appreciative of their temperament and how this dog typically behaves, it would behoove them to do a bit more research, to make sure it fits with their lifestyle or it is certain to be a set up for failure.

The buyers have done the necessary groundwork for the breed they desire and will be able provide an appropriate home for the type of dog they want. They should be confident that they are well-suited to manage a dog with the breed’s typical characteristics, energy level, and temperament. This includes health issues and care and maintenance of the dog’s coat. 

The flip side of this: The family wants a specific breed that is more than likely to fail if it only meets the criteria of looks, not lifestyle. For example, inactive people, living in a condo with no yard, who love the look of an Australian Shepherd, probably shouldn’t get an Aussie. Australian Shepherds need plenty of physical exercise as well as a great deal of mental stimulation to keep them busy and happy. 

The buyers specifically want a puppy. They are passionate about raising a dog from the earliest age possible and are ready to alter their lives and schedules in order to accommodate a puppy’s extraordinary needs for guidance and exercise. 

■ The flip side of this: The buyers are under the assumption that a puppy can be crated for many hours each day and won’t require much alteration or adjustment on the part of their daily routine. They feel that they won’t need to do much in the way of puppy-proofing their home because the puppy will be crated, which is also not considering the emotional needs of the puppy or the ability to teach manners when they are locked in a crate all day.

The buyers are ready for a puppy. They are equipped with puppy pens and baby gates and a wealth of puppy toys. They have a veterinarian and have pre-enrolled in a puppy training/socialization class and know that training continues through adolescence into adulthood. They have plans for puppy play dates with dogs who are well matched in size, breed, and age. 

■ The flip side of this: They’ve had dogs before but haven’t had a puppy in 20 years and think they’ve got it all covered, but they haven’t found a veterinarian yet. They think their old dog’s toys will suffice. They aren’t aware of the modern, science-based changes in training theory and methods, so they don’t realize that not all trainers are alike. 

The buyers have found a responsible and ethical breeder. This person makes appropriate placements only, taking care to match the buyers with puppies who are well-suited to that puppy’s emerging temperament. 

■ The flip side of this: Buyers are unaware of what a responsible breeder is, don’t know what questions to ask, so they have been searching online, on Craigslist and Facebook Marketplace, or calling pet stores to find out if they have puppies. They are unaware of what a puppy mill is and think that buying a puppy sight unseen from a website is legit. They don’t know that these breeders will sell to anyone with the money to buy, with little to no concern for the welfare of the puppy or how well matched they are with the buyers.

WHEN RESCUE MAKES MORE SENSE

There is a big division in the dog community about rescuing: To those of us who work in rescue, it can seem irresponsible to buy a purebred dog when there are so many dogs waiting in shelters or foster homes, in desperate need of a forever home. 

Let’s face it, money exchanges hands with both shelters and breeders. It’s takes money to care for animals. Compensation is necessary. Money drives both transactions and the onus is on us to do our due diligence in finding those who really have the welfare of the animals as their first priority. 

Sometimes, a dog’s appearance matters far less to a prospective owner than an individual dog’s personality and temperament. One huge benefit of adopting a “recycled” adult dog is that his size, coat, and personality is already fairly established. (Rescued puppies are a bit more of a gamble in terms of eventual size!) 

When a family is open to rescuing a dog, their list of considerations may look more like the ones below. (Keep in mind that this list absolutely applies to people who think they want to buy a purebred dog, too.)

Overall, will the prospect be a good fit for our family’s lifestyle? For example, physically fit, curious, confident dogs might be best for active families; quiet dogs are likely to be more content as a companion to a less-active person, perhaps living in an apartment, happy to go on daily walks and not much more. 

Does the prospect likes children and/or other animals, including other dogs? If the adopter has children and/or other animals, this needs to be positively determined. 

Does the dog have the fitness and temperament to participate in whatever sports the owner enjoys? 

Is the dog a good size for the owners? For example, older people may want a dog who is small enough to lift and carry if need be and who won’t be difficult to walk even if the dog pulls (but perhaps not so small as to be tripped over). Other families specifically want a big dog.

Is the dog protective, a “guarding” type? Is this appropriate for this home, with children and friends coming and going?

If the dog has health issues, or is a breed with a strong propensity for inherited health issues, are they affordable for the family? Will the dog need a special diet to prevent allergies, daily medication for arthritis, heartworm treatment? If he’s handicapped in some way (blind, partially paralyzed, etc.), is the family able to accommodate his disabilities?

Does the dog have behavioral issues that will require time, accommodation, management, and/or training? Be aware that many dogs end up in shelters because of a behavioral issue that someone else couldn’t or wouldn’t deal with. Are they willing to do the training and behavior modification to alleviate whatever caused the issues?

OWNING A DOG REQUIRES WORK EITHER WAY

I am acutely aware that many dogs who have been rescued from abandonment or surrendered may require a lot of time and extra work to help them fit into our society; for the past 50 or so years and until now, every single one of my dogs has been previously owned. 

But even though I’ve now bought a puppy who has more of a “blank slate” than I’ve ever had the pleasure of bringing home, I know there are no guarantees that she will develop into a healthy, perfectly well-behaved lifelong companion. All dogs require a commitment of time, money, love, and effort. 

Here’s the difference: I’m aware that no matter what behavioral or health baggage dogs come with, when we enter into a relationship well prepared and with our eyes open, and we completely accept responsibility for their well being, with kindness and patience, we can not only learn to live with each other in harmony, but thrive.

MY INFORMED DECISION

I chose to get a Rottweiler puppy, and I had a few reasons for this.

First, I was down to one dog, Timber, a 10-pound mixed-breed. Previously, I’ve never had just one dog and never had a dog smaller than 30 pounds. I hike every day and haven’t felt safe hiking with just Timber, who would be no more than a little snack to predators like coyotes and bobcats. I wanted a second dog again, and a big dog, one who would be capable of being Timber’s and my protector on trails, with the stamina to do long and challenging hikes. I also live alone and having a big dog makes me feel a lot more safe.

Second: I’ve had a Rottweiler in mind for ages. About 40 years ago, I had a Rottweiler, Ninja, who was given to me. At the time, I worked closely with a therapist who worked with troubled teens and Ninja helped us immensely with those kids. They all loved playing with, grooming, and training the 125-pound goofball of a Rottweiler. They could relate to the big dog who looked tough on the outside but was meek and a bit silly on the inside. For years, I thought that when my own children grew up and I was winding down my career in dog training that I would seriously revisit getting another Rottweiler to be a therapy dog for troubled teens.

Timber and I had been alone for a year when I saw a pictures and video posts on social media of a Rottweiler puppy that a colleague was training. I couldn’t get enough of watching their training progress. I realized that I was now ready to do what I had wanted to do since Ninja died in the early ’90s. 

Also, I wanted a purebred puppy whose history, genetics, temperament, and breed characteristics were known. While puppies already have a fair amount of writing on their slates when they go to their forever homes, I wanted to start with as clean a slate as possible given my desire to do therapy work with teenagers. There are no guarantees when getting a dog, whether we purchase from an ethical and responsible breeder or adopt a puppy from a shelter, but I knew that if I did my due diligence as a buyer, I’d have a better chance of getting a solid temperament and healthy puppy from someone who did their due diligence as a breeder.

THE RIGHT ONE

The author’s first purchased, purebred puppy,, Leela was chosen for specific traits that would help her succeed as both a companion and a partner in a specific career.

I wasn’t actively looking, but after being riveted by the social media appearances of my colleague’s pup, I mentioned to a friend that I wanted a Rottie puppy. Without hesitation, she told me about an acquaintance who trains and breeds service and therapy dogs – and who had a Rottweiler puppy that he wanted to go to a trainer who wants to train a therapy dog. I had to reach out. 

I contacted the breeder and asked about the puppy he thought was a good therapy dog prospect. We talked for over an hour and I heard about all the work and time that he put into this litter. I realized that this was the pup for me. I was getting a Rottweiler puppy who will become my next therapy dog.

This man takes his job as a breeder seriously and has educated himself in how he can help his puppies succeed before they go to their perspective homes. And since he’s also a trainer of service and therapy dogs, I knew he breeds for temperament and provides early enrichment training and socializing that enhances the potential for the puppies’ success. For me, temperament is number 1 on my wish list, with early enrichment a close second; this litter had both. 

Leela means “play” in Sanskrit and that’s what I hope my new puppy brings to those in need, a sense of play. She is now 7 months old, and I couldn’t be happier with who she’s becoming. The breeder’s great choices in selecting her parents, and the early neurological stimulation (ENS) exercises he did with the entire litter went a long way toward making her who she is today: a loving, willing, and confident dog who is very interested in people and already has a keen sense of knowing who needs her energy. I’m hopeful by the time she’s ready, this pandemic will be a thing of the past and we can begin our journey to helping heal some kids who could really use her generous, kind, and loving spirit. 

Dog Food Myth-Busting

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Lots of us enjoy bringing our dogs to the pet supply store when we need to buy food. Buy you should really have your hands free, so you can pull bags down and read the fine print on the labels. Which nutritional adequacy standard does each candidate meet? How much fat and protein do they contain? What ingredients are they made of?

When you consider the bitter disagreements among human nutrition experts about the value of or harm from various types of diets – vegan, vegetarian, raw, ketogenic, gluten-free, paleo, organic, you name it! – it’s not surprising that there are so many myths and misconceptions about what we should feed our dogs. Not surprising, but disappointing. At least humans can choose their own diets; dogs depend on us to sort out the wheat from the chaff, so to speak. So let’s bust some myths!

MYTH 1: All “complete and balanced” dog foods that meet the nutritional levels established by the AAFCO Nutrient Profiles offer the same amount of nutrition. 

TRUTH: This couldn’t be further from the truth. Not only are the amounts of macronutrients (protein, fat, fiber) in dog food wildly variable, the micronutrient levels are, too! 

In this country, the legal definition of “complete and balanced” is established by a nongovernmental advisory group, the Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO), which publishes the requirements for complete and balanced canine diets in   tables called the “AAFCO Dog Food Nutrient Profiles.” AAFCO makes occasional adjustments to the nutrient levels in the tables as continuing studies in animal nutrition are conducted. 

Unlike the “recommended daily allowance” (RDA) model that guides human diets with target nutrient levels, the AAFCO Dog Food Nutrient Profiles consist only of minimum values for all the nutrients required by dogs and maximum values for just a few nutrients that can be toxic if consumed in excessive amounts. As long as a food meets the minimum nutrient values expressed in the profiles, and doesn’t exceed the maximum values, it can be labeled as complete and balanced. 

That’s why it’s possible to compare two dog foods, both labeled as complete and balanced, and discover that Food A has twice as much fat or protein as Food B, or half as much iron or zinc.

The truth is, it can take a little (or a lot) of trial and error to find foods that will fully support your dog’s health. 

MYTH 2: “AAFCO Feeding Trials” are the gold standard for proving a food’s nutritional quality. 

TRUTH: Actually, it’s quite possible for foods that have passed an AAFCO feeding trial to contain insufficient or excessive nutrient levels; if a food passes an AAFCO feeding trial, it doesn’t have to meet the AAFCO Nutrient Profiles criteria. 

Feeding trials establish whether a food can sustain dogs for six months (at the most), which means the food may fail to maintain a dog’s health for years on end. Also, nutrient levels that depart dramatically from established minimum and/or maximum requirements for dogs can take a lot longer than six months to have deleterious effects on a dog’s health. 

A true gold standard for proving the nutritional adequacy of a dog food would be something that combined both of the existing qualifiers. Doesn’t it seem like a food should have to meet the minimum and maximum nutrient levels established by AAFCO and pass a feeding trial to ensure that the food was palatable and digestible? Sigh. 

MYTH 3: The best dog food is [insert the name of your favorite brand here]. 

TRUTH: We don’t care what brand name you insert in that myth; you’re wrong. There is no “best” food for all dogs, any more than there is a best food for all humans. 

All dogs are individuals, just like all humans. While there are many of us humans who can live perfectly well on a diet of fast food and highly processed frozen and prepared foods, some of us would die on such a diet. Some people can’t eat certain ingredients – or foods that contain gluten or foods with high amounts of fat – without suffering serious consequences. 

Well, it’s the same with dogs. Some can eat anything without ill effects, while others have highly sensitive digestive tracts that are in constant revolt. While we are eager to inform you about the traits of better-quality diets from reputable companies, our goal is to give you good options to choose from. You have to find what works best for your individual dogs. 

Myth 4: Once you find a food that suits your dog, you shouldn’t switch. 

TRUTH: You know who benefits the most from this myth? The pet food company who captured the money you spent on food when you first got your dog. 

It’s true that if you feed your dog the same food for months (or years) on end and then you change that food, he will likely display some digestive upset. That doesn’t mean you shouldn’t change his food; it means you should change his food more often!

Dogs have evolved with extremely efficient and flexible digestive abilities – and for the past few thousand years, they’ve been eating our leftovers, whatever that may be. They thrive on variety, just like we do. And the more variety there is in their diet, the more robust their digestion becomes. 

We strongly encourage owners to rotate among at least three different products from different pet food companies throughout the year. And more may be better! Why? Think back to Myth 1: No two foods contain the same macronutrient and micronutrient levels, and who is to say which ones have too much of this or too little of that for your dog? 

Most pet food companies use the same vitamin/mineral premix for all of their dry dog foods, but the nutrient levels in the premix used by one company will undoubtedly be different than those in the premix used by other companies. If you feed only one food, or even several products from just one company, you are entrenching those nutrient levels in your dog’s body. Rotating among a few products (made by different companies) can supply nutritional balance over time. 

The exception to this recommendation? Dogs who have proven to be intolerant of any change or allergic to a number of ingredients. 

Myth 5: The more the food costs, the better it is. 

TRUTH: The inverse of this statement is for sure true – the cheaper a food, the lower its quality – but because there are so many factors that affect pricing, the original statement is false. 

Some companies spend much more money on marketing than other companies who make similar foods. Gigantic companies have an advantage in the economy of the scale of their ingredient purchasing and manufacturing costs, but may spend a ton on research and  development. There are just too many factors involved to make a straight correlation between a high price and quality.

We don’t think you have to buy the most expensive food in the store in order to properly nourish your dog – but you definitely should not buy bargain basement food. The first five ingredients of the food pictured here are: Corn, meat and bone meal, corn gluten meal, animal fat, and soybean meal. Blech.

One thing you can do is to compare the price per pound of products with similar ingredients and macronutrient levels. There are relative bargains to be had among good foods. Just don’t go looking for bargain-basement foods; rest assured that they will not meet our selection criteria.

Myth 6: You should ask your veterinarian what food is best. 

TRUTH: We wish with all of our hearts that this myth was true, but the harsh fact is, few veterinarians know that much about nutrition or are willing to discuss any foods except the ones they sell.

Don’t get us wrong: We respect and appreciate veterinarians, and we’re not accusing them of a profit motive here. In most cases, we suspect it’s a matter of familiarity and a limited amount of available bandwidth. As you already are aware, there are way too many products to choose from. Once a busy practitioner is convinced of the quality of particular pet food company’s products, whether because of a talented salesperson or an informative seminar she attended, she’ll tend to recommend those foods and eschew discussion of the rest.

The lure of “prescription” diets that have been developed to address medical conditions can’t be overstated. If you were a veterinarian who was already putting in 12-hour days and barely keeping up with the workload, would you rather have a 30-minute talk with a client about diets with lower magnesium, sodium, calcium, phosphorus, and fat, which are supposed to be beneficial for her dog’s urinary tract health, or just recommend a prescription diet (conveniently carried by your clinic) that has those features?

Not all vets are that interested in or knowledgeable about food. It’s always worth asking them what food they’d recommend for your dog and why. But if their only suggestion is the food sold in the clinic and there isn’t a compelling reason for that particular choice, with respect, we’d take the advice with a grain of salt.

Myth 7: Corn is poison for dogs! No, wait! It’s wheat. And soy! 

A 27.5 pound bag of this prescription food, recommended by many veterinarians for dogs who are prone to any sort of urinary problem, costs around $90. Its first five ingredients are: Corn, chicken meal, pork fat, corn gluten meal, soybean mill run. (The legal definition of that last ingredient is “soybean hulls and such bean meats that adhere to the hulls which result from normal milling operations in the production of dehulled soybean meal”.). That’s crazy!

Truth: If any one of these food ingredients were one-tenth as bad for dogs as people say (allergenic! indigestible!), we’d have a lot fewer dogs today. All of those ingredients have been fed to dogs for decades. 

Like most myths, though, there are fine grains of partial truths behind these allegations.

Corn, and to a lesser extent, wheat, rice, and millet are prone to Aspergillus fungal infections. Aspergillus produces a highly dangerous substance called aflatoxin, which is not only a carcinogen but also can cause deadly liver damage in dogs. Pet food manufacturers that use these ingredients, especially corn, must be scrupulous about testing these ingredients as they come into their manufacturing sites and after the pet food is made.

Soy is denigrated as an ingredient in dog food for other reasons. It’s been alleged to cause allergic reactions, reduce the digestibility of protein, cause gas and diarrhea, and interfere with the absorption of minerals like calcium and iron. 

When used in pet food in minor amounts – and with proper quality control and ingredient testing – none of these or many other frequently impugned ingredients should be problematic for most dogs. Half a century ago, corn and wheat, in particular, were used in such high concentrations in dog food that it was almost inevitable that dogs who lived their whole lifetimes on these foods would be inadequately nourished. (We’re approaching a similar heavy usage/overreliance on peas and other of legumes in pet food today.)

Remember: If you change brands and formulas frequently, none of them should have an opportunity to cause long-term harm. 

Of course, if your dog has an adverse response to any food, stop feeding it. Give him a different food until his symptoms resolve, then try it once more. If the problem recurs, or if it causes a similar reaction in more than one of your dogs, see if you can return it. Ask your retailer to report the issue to the manufacturer, or contact the manufacturer yourself. Note the ingredients on a calendar or your dog’s health journal so you can try to identify a pattern of problems that you can link to certain ingredients or brands of food. 

Nancy Kerns is the editor of WDJ. 

Related Articles

Subscriber Only: Whole Dog Journal’s Approved Dry Dog Foods for 2021
Whole Dog Journal’s Free Guide on Dry Dog Food

Sound Solutions

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Many of the people reading this have the magazine in their hands (or these words on their screen) because they once went looking for an answer to a problem they were having with their dog. They may have Googled the problem and found a WDJ article on the topic in their search results. Or maybe they asked a friend for advice, and the friend gave them a copy of the magazine that had an article on the subject – what to do about dogs who jump up or bark, or dogs with diarrhea or allergies. I’m pretty sure that in the past 22 years, we’ve had an article that has offered sound solutions for just about every problem you can have with a dog! (And lots of articles on non-problems, too, of course!)

And then, maybe they responded to a pop-up ad with a subscription offer to WDJ, or they sent back one of those cards that fall out of the issue, agreeing to look over a free issue. 

If this describes you, welcome! Whichever way you came to be reading this, I’m pleased that you’re here, because you’re clearly someone who loves your dog more than most – why else would you even consider subscribing? Rest assured, you are among your people. We’re highly invested in our dogs. We’re motivated to provide the best food and health care for our dogs and interested in learning effective, dog-friendly training methods that will improve both our dogs’ behavior and our relationship with them. 

One word of warning, however: If you’re looking for quick fixes to health problems that took years to develop or tips that will instantly stop your dog from displaying behaviors he’s been practicing for months, you’re probably going to be disappointed. While many of us have learned things in WDJ that made some aspect of our dogs’ lives better overnight, by and large, the sort of information we specialize in here is usually more involved than the sort of glossy “Just use these essential oils and voilà!” five-minute non-solution that proliferates in these short-attention-span times. Think about it: While a calendula tincture can promote nearly miraculous healing of a hot spot or other vexing skin problem, it doesn’t address the cause of the skin injury or prevent it from recurring. An article in this publication will not only tell you where to buy the herbs and how to make the tincture, but also how to investigate the underlying cause of the dog’s skin irritation and stop it.

 We take the same approach to behavior problems. We absolutely will be able to help you and your dog – if you’re willing and able to do put time and effort into helping your dog. If you’ve come here looking for answers, we’re glad to have you, and we invite you to stay for solutions.

Whole Dog Journal’s Approved Dry Dog Foods for 2021

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Paralyzed by the staggering number of choices that face you at the pet supply store? Our list of approved foods will help you winnow down the candidates.

Below, we’ve listed more than 50 companies that collectively make more than 1,000 different dry dog foods that meet our selection criteria. To think that these foods make up a fraction of the dog food sold in North America is a testament to the massive size of the industry – estimated to have sold $31 billion worth of pet food in 2020.

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Prisma – A Fun App for Dog Owners

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This is "Surf"

Like most dog owners, I absolutely love taking pictures of my dogs and my dogs’ friends (my friends’ dogs, lol). Most of us are carrying around our mobile phones and snapping pictures of our dogs every time we are somewhere particularly beautiful, aren’t we? Or any time they are being particularly cute?

I publish some of these on WDJ’s Instagram page, @DogsOfWholeDogJournal. It takes an effort to not publish all the heavily filtered versions of some of my favorite photos that I create with a super fun app called Prisma. If you, like me, are addicted to taking your dog’s picture and you don’t already have this app, download it now! It’s free, and has about a dozen or so filters that you can play with to create artworks of your dog. If you get really excited about it, you can pay for an upgraded version that has many more filters that you can apply.

Once the app is loaded, you can take any photo on your phone and apply any filter that you like. Some apply wild colors or textures to the photo. Some turn the photo into a pencil sketch, or a heavily pixilated, almost abstract artwork. I love the ones that make the most vibrant colors in the photo even more dramatic. But you can also apply a very soft effect, just barely altering photos in a way that makes it harder to determine whether a piece of art is a photo or has been painted. (I actually used the app to create the image of Otto that has appeared in WDJ’s masthead for the past few years!)

Once the filter is applied, you can edit it, toning down the effects or magnifying them as you see fit. There are sliders for adjusting the overall exposure, contrast, brightness, saturation, vibrance, color “temperature,” and more. And you can save as many versions of the photo that you create as you like! I have no affiliation or link or interest in the company that makes this app, I’m just an appreciative user. If you are, too, go to WDJ’s FB page and look for a post about Prisma, and share an edited photo of your dog there!

The filter called “Frangipani” makes the photo into a soft watercolor.
I love the softness of this one, called “Golden Hour”
The original image, for comparison.

Foster Dog Coco Has Found Her Forever Home

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Will "sit" for treats.

I’ve written three previous posts (links are here, here, and here) about my most recent foster dog, Coco – a young mixed-breed with spinal dysraphism. I started fostering Coco in September, after she and her littermates were relinquished by an owner who had evacuated from a devastating fire we had in this area.

I doubt this will be the last time I’ll mention Coco, who came this close to being a permanent member of my family – but I’m writing this to tell you about her new family.

When I write about my foster dogs and puppies, people will often comment that they would like to be considered as potential adopters of those dogs or puppies – more often, people will say things like, “I would take her if I could!” or “I want her!” Nearly all the time, people are not actually serious. If there are not yet any prospective local adopters, and the letter writers sound like they really mean it, and they are close enough geographically to regard their proposition as practical, I will write them back and say, tell me more about your interest in this dog!” Usually, I don’t hear back.

After the last post I wrote about Coco was published, I saw a comment from someone who was interested in the funny little brown dog:

“Your video of Coco once again opened my heart and brain to the thought of adopting a special-needs dog. After all, I was adopted and adopted my special-needs foster child too. I would be honored to be considered as her forever home mom. I feel this is meant to be.”

My friend Leonora getting to know Coco on her first day out of the shelter.She was very apprehensive about people, but her love of being petted (and getting treats) was already evident.

The person added a second comment, as an afterthought to the first comment:

“I forgot to add that my 30 year old daughter has spina bifida too, but she uses a wheelchair and doesn’t get to hop.”

I was intrigued by the idea that there is someone with a family member with a disability, who would be experienced with the adaptations needed for negotiating life with a mobility challenge, who was specifically drawn to help a dog with similar challenges. I wrote back to the person, thanking them for their interest in Coco and asking for more information: What is her life like, does she have space and energy for a young, active (though not fully able) dog?

As it happens, a few days later, I was hiking with my husband in an area where I had no mobile phone reception. When we reached the peak of the mountain we were hiking, all of a sudden my phone started blipping with incoming messages and emails. We sat down to eat some snacks we had brought along and I scanned my email. Then I saw a reply to the email I had sent to the prospective adopter. I opened it and started to read.

A minute later I had tears streaming down my face, startling my husband, who didn’t know what I was reading. The writer explained that she was familiar with where I live, because she went to college in this area and got a degree in nursing. She became a nurse, married, and moved to Idaho.

“We became foster parents to Elizabeth, an adorable 3-year-old with spina bifida in 1993 and got to adopt her in 2000. My husband died very unexpectedly almost two years ago. Elizabeth’s wish was to get a Golden Retriever and name her Molly, so we did! Molly is now almost 11 months old and we taking her to advanced dog classes. The best part of our week is going to class and being with the classmates we have been together with since beginner class. We are hoping she can become Elizabeth’s service dog. 

Coco is a little dismayed to be back at the shelter for her adoption paperwork to be finalized, but she’s willing to trade her discomfort for the treats in Elizabeth’s treat bag.

“I think the yard is a quarter-acre and is fenced.  My great niece is a CNA and masseuse and would love to help Coco.  We have a wheelchair van with a ramp. Our lives have been about the three of us for awhile now, and Elizabeth and I have big hearts and open arms. Molly is such a lover, gives big hugs, and would love a best friend. Please consider us to be a forever home for Coco. We can easily drive down to Oroville and meet all of you.”

This wasn’t the usual “I wish I could have that dog!” type of letter. This person has medical training, has accommodations in place for supporting a family member, has an appropriate and secure home, and a plan for coming here to meet the dog. Wow!

I forwarded the letter to the adoption coordinator for my local shelter, Coco’s legal owner. She said, “If you think it’s a good placement and they want to come here to meet Coco, I don’t see why we shouldn’t adopt to them.”

Long story short: Melanie and I exchanged quite a few more emails over the next few weeks. I shared with her an in-depth report from the veterinary physical therapist I consulted about Coco (we had an hour-long assessment and the therapist recommended specific exercises for Coco). Among other good news: She shared that she has a heated swim/spa that would be perfect for swim therapy for Coco. Anyone that is willing to have a dog in their spa is okay with me!

Last week, Melanie and Elizabeth and Molly the dog drove all day to Oroville, and stayed in a hotel in town. We met the next morning, and Melanie joined my friend Leonora and me and our dogs Otto, Woody, Samson, and of course Coco on a short off-leash walk, so she could meet Coco in a low-pressure environment and also see Coco move. I wanted her to see how gracefully and joyously she can run across open fields – and how she sometimes uses us humans and other dogs as backstops when she is running so fast she can’t stop, and she crashes into your legs. I wanted her to see how Coco sometimes loses control and falls and rolls, but also how she can leap over ditches and climb hills.

Scene from our last early-morning walk together.

Then Melanie, Elizabeth, and I went back to the hotel and introduced Coco and Molly. In less than a minute, the two dogs, who are approximately the same age, were rolling around playing as hard as Coco and Woody ever did. We talked about training, and I was happy to see that both women were equipped with treat bags loaded with training treats. Elizabeth told me about some training challenges she’d been having with Molly and we discussed some tactics for dealing with those.

We drove in separate vehicles to the shelter, where Melanie filled out the adoption paperwork for Coco and paid her adoption fee while Elizabeth and I continued to work with Molly. Then we all drove over to a dog park – in this town, hardly anyone uses it, and sure enough, there was a single person with a single dog when we arrived, and they were just leaving. Perfect! We spent another hour with the dogs there, letting them explore and play while we talked more about training and I kept apologizing for trying to shove several months’ worth of training and behavior lectures and demonstrations down their throats. They both were very patient with me, even when, every few hours, I started crying at the thought of Coco leaving.

Late that afternoon, we went back to the hotel, and I lead Coco to their room, but left her there with them so I could go home and take a nap; I had just finished production of the February issue of WDJ and was terribly sleep-deprived – which I also used as an excuse for why I kept starting to cry.

In the hotel room, Molly and Coco were just a blur of play.

I went back to the hotel in the evening, to see how they were all doing. Elizabeth answered the door, and I was relieved to see Coco relaxed and happily laying in Melanie’s lap on the bed, getting a massage. She was glad to see me, but expressed her excitement by initiating yet another raucous play session with Molly. The women seemed amused and quite tolerant of the dogs’ shenanigans. I have a good feeling about all this.

I asked if Leonora and I could have one last bit of time with Coco before she left with them the next morning, and happily, they agreed. I took Coco to spend one last night with Leonora, who had cared for Coco for at least a third of the time I was officially fostering her. And then, very early the next morning, Leonora and I took Coco and our dogs for one last off-leash romp together on our favorite trails. The dogs had a blast, and we tried not to be sad, because we are genuinely happy for Coco. We think she’s going to have a great life with her new family and friend Molly. It’s just that we had gotten so attached to the relentlessly happy little dog who never, ever seemed discouraged or defeated by her wonky body. We also marveled at her transformation from a haunted-looking, unsocialized, terrified pup with almost zero muscle tone, to a fit, toned, confident dog. Granted, she is still wary of new people, but when she’s introduced properly, after a few treats, she recovers her moxie and will sit and lay down on cue for food from anyone.

After our walk, we met Melanie and Elizabeth at the hotel at 9 am. Their van was packed and Molly had been walked and they were ready to head back to Idaho. Of course, Leonora and I both started to cry as we put Coco and all her things – special toys, favorite bed, harnesses, collars, life jacket, slow-feeder bowl, and some extra treats – into the van. Last kisses for Coco, and masked and careful hugs for Melanie and Elizabeth (how could we not?!), and we all parted.

Elizabeth sent updates and photos from the road: Coco curled up in her bed in the van, Coco laying across Molly in the van – and then a report that they had gotten home, where it was snowing, and the dogs were in the backyard racing around joyously. An hour later: Dogs still outdoors racing around wildly, and having to be coerced to come inside and race around there, instead. An hour later, at nearly the start of the next day, Elizabeth reported that her mom had called Coco into her bedroom and closed the door behind her. After the tedium of a very long drive that day, the two young dogs had to be separated to go to sleep that night. And both women thanked me for facilitating the adoption; they already love the little brown dog, and Molly is beyond grateful to have a canine playmate. We also discussed setting up some Zoom dog-training sessions.

Leonora and I told Melanie and Elizabeth that if for any reason, Coco proved to be too much work, or if somehow she and Molly weren’t getting along, we would be happy to drive to Idaho and bring Coco back – but I don’t think it’s going to be necessary. Melanie has mentioned that they may even take a road trip back here to visit later this year, hopefully, after we’ve all been vaccinated for COVID-19, and we can dispense with the masks and keeping our distance from each other.

I’m so looking forward to that visit.

Can Dogs Eat Oranges?

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Jack Russell Terrier rearing up to get mandarin. Photo: alexei_tm/Getty Images

Orange juice has long been a breakfast table staple, and the fruit is popular year-round for its citrusy-sweet taste and Vitamin C. Come winter, some people load up on oranges to help their immune systems during cold and flu season (this may be a myth). But oranges do help prevent kidney stones and heart disease. And during the pandemic, sales of orange juice have skyrocketed.

We want the best not only for ourselves but for our pups too. If oranges have benefits for humans, it’s natural to wonder if they can help keep our pets stay safe, healthy and prolong their lives.

But not everything humans eat is safe for dogs (hello, chocolate and grapes). To help determine whether oranges are safe for dogs, we did some research and spoke with Dr. Rachel Barrack, DVM, CVA, CVCH, of Animal Acupuncture in New York City.

can dogs eat oranges
There are a few things you need to know before letting dogs eat oranges. Photo: svetikd/Getty Images

Can dogs eat oranges?

Let’s cut to the chase: Yes, most dogs can have oranges, though certain pups should abstain completely. But unlike humans, who require dietary sources of vitamin C, dogs manufacture their own vitamin C. “It isn’t required in their diet,” Dr. Barrack says. “Oranges are high in sugar and thus shouldn’t be given to overweight or diabetic dogs.”

In other words, you can hand Fido an orange slice as a treat here and there if they enjoy the taste, but their primary source of nutrition should be dog food.

How should I feed my dog an orange?

Dogs should only get the fleshy part of the orange and not the skin.

“The skin is the most acidic part of the orange and can cause the most GI upset,” Dr. Barrack says.

Orange juice should also be avoided. Whether your dog is diabetic or not, the sugar content is too high.

can dogs eat oranges.
Don’t give dogs a whole orange. Dogs should only eat the fleshy part of the orange and not the skin.Photo: Ekaterina Zaitseva/Getty Images

When to stop letting your dog eat oranges

Some dogs love the taste of oranges, making them a fun occasional treat. But oranges don’t sit well with every pet. If you notice gastrointestinal discomforts, such as an upset stomach, vomiting, diarrhea or inappetence, stop giving orange slices to your pup and consult your vet.

Otherwise, it’s fine to let your pup have a taste of this natural candy. Though they may not reap the same benefits as humans it’ll make them happy — and there’s nothing better than a happy dog.

Read Next: What Fruits Can Dogs Eat?

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Matters of the Heartworm in Dogs

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dog with heartworm
Dogs with the highest risk of becoming infected with heart worms are those who spend a lot of time outdoors, especially in parts of the country where mosquitoes are present year-round. But a dog can get infected with heart worm from any single infected mosquito, even indoors. © Xiao Zhou – Dreamstime.com

Heartworms are just what they sound like: worms, up to 14 inches long as adults, that develop and live within the blood vessels of the dog’s heart. Though they prefer the right side of the heart, in a severe infection, they also develop and live within the lungs or any major artery – wherever they can find room with access to blood.

Heartworm disease refers to the constellation of ill effects the dog suffers as a result of this population growing inside him. Heartworm disease has the highest morbidity and mortality of any insect-transmitted disease in the United States. 

At one point, heartworm disease was considered a problem of certain areas (the Southeast is notorious for this), changes in climate, dogs being moved across state lines (for instance, dogs relocated from Louisiana after Hurricane Katrina), and changes in wildlife territories have all led to fluctuations in the distribution patterns of the disease. As a result, heartworm disease in dogs is no longer limited to particular parts of the country.

The good news is that with the advent of modern parasiticides and routine surveillance (testing for heartworms), heartworm disease can be prevented. If prevention is not taken and a dog becomes infected with heartworms, he can be treated for the infection – but the treatments can pose a risk to the dog. Prevention is the best approach!

What Happens During a Heartworm Infection in Dogs

Dogs become infected with heartworms through the bites of infected mosquitoes. A mosquito who has taken a blood meal from an infected canid (dog, coyote, wolf, fox) transmits heartworm larvae into the next canid it bites. 

The microscopic heartworm larvae enter the dog from the mosquito’s mouthparts and begin a developmental journey that sees them progress through several larval forms and migrate into the dog’s bloodstream, looking for a hospitable place to attach and grow into adult worms. 

The pulmonary arteries where the adult worms ultimately lodge become inflamed, dilated, and malformed, as the heart labors to push blood past the obstructing worms. Blood clots and aneurysms (a dangerously ballooning bulge in a blood vessel) can develop. 

The heavier the heartworm “burden” – the more worms that the dog is infected with – the worse the dog’s symptoms and prognosis will be. Dogs can become infected with so many parasites that the heartworms can obstruct the flow of blood through the heart, leading to dilation and thickening of the laboring muscles of the right side of the heart. The thickened heart muscle is subject to disturbances in the electrical impulses of the heart, leading to arrhythmias. 

If the worm population is unchecked, the heart becomes too distorted to function at all, and the dog can suffer right-sided heart failure. Or, “caval syndrome” may be observed, where the entire right side of the heart is filled with heartworms, interfering with closure of the tricuspid valve and impeding the flow of blood through the heart, leading to cardiovascular collapse.

As the heartworm infection progresses, the blood vessels of the lungs (pulmonary vasculature) become inflamed and unhealthy. This causes pulmonary hypertension (high blood pressure in the lungs). And as the worm-laden heart has to work harder, it becomes less able to pump blood throughout the body, driving the acquisition of oxygen and expelling carbon dioxide in the lungs. As this progresses, the dog becomes increasingly intolerant of exercise – or, in severe cases, any movement at all. The dog will develop a chronic cough that worsens over time, and the dog’s belly may become distended with fluid (ascites).

The heart, lungs, and even the kidney and liver eventually show signs of disease – all caused by the increasingly inefficient labors of the burdened cardiovascular system.

Caval Syndrome

These adult heart worms were surgically removed from a dog with caval syndrome.

Caval syndrome is an uncommon but lethal condition in which a massive clot of worms suddenly obstructs the vena cava (a large vein that carries blood into the heart). This occurs when a dog has a heavy infection of adult heartworms and it leads to immediate, life-threatening shock. A dog will collapse, have pale gums, rapid heart rate, and fast, irregular breathing. Bloody urine can develop, and body temperature may be low.

There is only one successful treatment for this condition, and it is invasive and risky. It involves making a cut into the jugular vein and manually removing the clot of worms from the heart with long forceps. 

Once enough worms are removed, the heart can pump efficiently again. This treatment requires general anesthesia while a dog is in a state of shock, as well as 1 to 2 days of hospitalization for recovery followed by adulticidal treatment. The prognosis is extremely guarded. 

The Range of Heartworm Symptoms in Dogs

It usually takes at least a year before a dog, bitten by an infected mosquito, shows signs of heartworm disease – and it may take even longer. The symptoms that dogs may display as a result of their heartworm infection depend on a number of factors: 

  • How many heartworms a dog becomes infected with (dogs can be infected with just one worm or dozens; the worms don’t increase in number without repeated, new infections caused by bites from more infected mosquitoes).
  • The exact location in the dog’s circulatory system where the worms attach themselves (worms lodged near heart valves, for example, can cause more trouble than ones elsewhere).
  • How long the worms have been present in the dog (the longer, the more damage they can cause; worms can live up to 5 to 7 years and grow 12 inches or longer).
  • The dog’s health (some dogs may better tolerate a limited infection than others). 

Early signs of a heartworm infection in dogs may be a mild cough or “slowing down” during exercise (exercise intolerance). You may notice that your dog becomes reluctant to run and play or tires quickly, particularly in the heat. A dog who is only lightly infected (with just one or two worms) may never experience worse symptoms than this. 

However, dogs who have a heavier worm burden and/ or become repeatedly reinfected will suffer worsening and serious symptoms. Eventually, total failure of the right side of the heart occurs. Blood-tinged fluid may drip from the nose. Dramatic weight loss called cardiac cachexia can be noted. This is end-stage heart failure and successful treatment is difficult. At this stage, death is not far off.

Heartworm Lifecycle

To understand how best to prevent and treat heartworm infections, it helps to understand the life cycle of the heartworm. 

The heartworm goes through several physical transformations in its lifetime and requires hosts of two different species to complete its life cycle: the mosquito and a mammal. The life cycle starts in an infected animal. If an adult male and a female adult heartworm are both present in a dog, they can produce microfilaria, a type of motile embryo. The microfilariae circulate freely in the infected animal’s blood and cannot develop any further unless they are sucked up into a mosquito through its bite. 

The next stages of a heartworm’s development can take place only in the gut of a mosquito – weird, right? Once a mosquito ingests a blood meal laden with microfilariae, the microfilariae start to mature. Over a period of 10 to 30 days (average is about two weeks), the microscopic embryos develop through three larval stages – still very microscopic, but each distinct. If the mosquito bites another dog, any larvae in the third stage of development (called L3 larvae) exit the mosquito through its mouthparts and enter the dog. Only once the L3 larvae are in a mammal again can they develop further. 

The larvae live and continue to develop in the dog’s subcutaneous tissue for about 50 to 70 days, in a stage called L4 – the fourth larval stage. Once that stage is complete, the larvae begin to migrate through the dog’s tissues, in search of the circulatory tract. Once they reach a blood vessel and enter the bloodstream, they become sexually immature adults. These juvenile worms move toward the heart and lungs, where they latch on and mature into sexually capable adults who can mate, so the females can produce viable embryos (microfilaria), starting the life cycle again.

This entire process, from the bite of the mosquito who takes the microfilaria from an infected dog, through the larval stages in the mosquito, through the larval stages in a new mammal host, to adulthood, takes a minimum of about six months. 

It’s important to understand this cycle, as veterinary technology can prevent your dog’s infection, or, failing that, detect his infection in order to deliver a timely treatment, at specific times in the heartworm’s life cycle, and under specific conditions.

Heartworm Prevention for Dogs

Heartworm preventative drugs belong to a class of medications called macrocyclic lactones. They have been in existence for about 30 years and are derived from the soil microorganism Streptomyces.

Macrocyclic lactones are used in both the treatment of human and animal parasitic diseases. These medications work by inhibiting nerve transmission within parasites, leading to their paralysis and death. They effectively kill the third-stage larvae that infected mosquitoes may have newly implanted in your dog, as well as the fourth-stage larvae that are developing under his skin.

These drugs do not kill any juvenile or adult heartworms that may already reside in the circulatory tract (though the drugs may weaken them). Once the larvae reaches the bloodstream, it’s too late for the preventative drugs to kill them. To be effective, the drugs must be administered between the bite of an infected mosquito and when the larvae reaches young adulthood. That’s why these drugs must be administered precisely on the schedule recommended by their manufacturers (monthly for many of the drugs, or according to label instructions).

Heartworm Preventative Medications

Heartworm PreventativeActive IngredientsFormEffective AgainstDurationManufacturer
Advantage Multiimidacloprid, moxidectintopicalheartworms, adult fleas, sarcoptic mange mites, roundworms, hookworms, whipworms30 daysBayer
Heartgardivermectinoralheartworms30 daysBoehringer Ingelheim
Heartgard Plusivermectin, pyranteloralheartworms, hookworms, roundworms30 daysBoehringer Ingelheim
Interceptor Plusmilbemycin, praziquanteloralheartworms, hookworms, roundworms, whipworms, tapeworms30 daysElanco
IverHart Maxivermectin, pyrantel, praziquanteloralheartworms, hookworms, roundworms, tapeworms30 daysVirbac
IverHart Plusivermectin, pyranteloralheartworms, hookworms, roundworms30 daysVirbac
ProHeart 6moxidectininjectionheartworms6-12 monthsZoetis
Revolutionselamectintopicalheartworms, fleas, ear mites, ticks, sarcoptic mange mites30 daysZoetis
Sentinel Flavor Tabsmilbemycin, lufenuronoralheartworms, hookworms, roundworms, whipworms, fleas30 daysVirbac
Sentinel Spectrummilbemycin, lufenuron, praziquanteloralheartworms, hookworms, roundworms, whipworms, tapeworms, fleas30 daysVirbac
Simparica Triosarolanar, moxidectin, pyranteloralheartworms, ticks, fleas, roundworms, hookworms30 daysZoetis
TriHeartivermectin, pyranteloralheartworms, hookworms, roundworms30 daysMerck
Trifexisspinosad, milbemycinoralheartworms, fleas, hookworms, roundworms, whipworms30 daysElanco

 

How to Diagnose Heartworm

Most dog owners have had their dogs tested for heartworm infections, but many are unaware of the limitations of these tests. 

The most sensitive and readily available antigen detection test is a snap test that can be conducted in your vet’s office. A blood sample is drawn, mixed with a conjugate solution, and applied to the test. Results are available within 10 minutes.

The most common heartworm tests used by veterinarians detect the antigens that are released by adult female heartworms into the dog’s bloodstream. In most cases, antigen tests can accurately detect infections with one or more adult female heartworms. 

Currently there are no USDA-licensed serologic tests that can detect male heartworms. This means if a dog, by chance, is infected with only male heartworms, the test won’t catch it. And if a dog is infected, but the heartworms have not yet reached adulthood, the test won’t catch it. 

Also, if a dog is infected with just one or two adult female heartworms, the tests will detect antigens produced by this tiny female population only 60% to 70% of the time. The dog may test negative or inconsistently positive.

In addition, according to Michael W. Dryden, DVM, MA, PhD, of the Kansas State Veterinary Diagnostic Laboratory, recent studies have documented that antigen tests may not test positive in up to 7% of dogs due to the occurrence of “antigen-antibody complexes” that are formed in the dog’s blood. 

So, to counter these rather sobering testing statistics, in an ideal world, puppies would be started on heartworm preventative medication at their first veterinary visit, and receive their first heartworm tests at or just before a year of age. Since tests cannot detect heartworms before the heartworms are 6 to 7 months of age, there is little reason to test much sooner. (That said, if I was looking at a rescued dog of indeterminate age who lived primarily outside before rescue, especially in a warm climate where mosquitoes are active year-found, I would test him sooner.) 

Your veterinarian might also look at a blood sample under the microscope. The microfilariae are easy to detect, as the active embryonic larvae are much bigger than blood cells. They also “whip” from side to side. A positive antigen test and the presence of microfilaria definitely means that a dog has a heartworm infection.

If the antigen test is positive, but no microfilariae are detected, then a second heartworm test should be conducted to confirm the positive finding. Treatment for the infection should not be started until the positive has been confirmed.

If a dog tests negative but has symptoms compatible with heartworm disease and hasn’t been taking prevention, then more extensive testing is necessary. This includes a blood smear to look for microfilaria as mentioned above. “Heat fixation” is a newer test, conducted by outside laboratories, that can dissociate the antigen-antibody immune complexes, unbinding any heartworm antigen present so that it is detectable by the antigen tests. 

If you choose to import a dog from another state, make sure that he has been thoroughly examined and tested for heartworms – both so he can be treated promptly and to eliminate the possibility that he provides a new local reservoir (host) for heartworms in your area. 

What about my Australian Shepherd?

At standard dosage rates, all the Heartworm-preventative drugs that are approved for canine use have been shown to be safe for dogs with MDR1 mutation. Overdoses of these drugs, however, may trigger adverse reactions.

Some breeds of dogs, particularly white-footed herding breeds such as Australian Shepherds and Collies, are known to have a deficiency of P-glycoprotein. This is known as the multi-drug resistant mutation (MDR1). Dogs with this mutation are unusually sensitive to certain classes of drugs including macrocyclic lactones (MLs). 

However, studies have shown that at the standard preventive doses, MLs are safe in all breeds. This is why it is important to use the canine products rather than trying to dose large animal products. The vast majority of toxicities in MDR1 mutation dogs were caused by overdose of large animal products or accidental ingestion of too much medication. 

Heartworm Treatment Options

If a heartworm infection is confirmed, the next step is determining how advanced the disease is. This can include x-rays of the chest to look at the dog’s heart size, lungs, and blood vessels. 

Some veterinarians will also conduct an electrocardiogram (ECG) to evaluate the heart rhythm for abnormalities, as well as an echocardiogram – an ultrasound of the heart. This will determine if the heart is enlarged, and heartworms will show up on the echo as bright white lines. Knowing the severity of disease can predict the likelihood of complications from treatment.

Dogs with minimal cardiovascular changes have a good prognosis. The presence of heart failure, significant lung changes, and caval syndrome complicates treatment significantly.

The treatment of heartworm infections has advanced significantly in recent decades. 

Initially, oral prevention such as milbemycin is administered for two months, along with doxycycline. The oral prevention kills the larval forms and any circulating microfilariae that may be present. (The microfilariae can’t develop into heartworms in your dog – but you don’t want your dog to be a host for any stage of the heartworm life cycle!) 

Doxycycline is an effective antibiotic against Wolbachia, a parasite harbored within the heartworm. By killing the parasites in the heartworms, the heartworms themselves are weakened. When administered as part of therapy, doxycycline lessens the complications of infection. 

At two months (day 60), it’s time to administer melarsomine (Immiticide), the drug that actually kills the adult heartworms. The drug is given as an injection deep into the epaxial muscles along the spine on days 60, 90, and 91. During treatment, extremely strict crate rest with or without sedation and close monitoring are required. 

A dog’s prognosis depends on the severity of infection at the time of treatment, as well as the management of the dog during the treatment period. As the worms die, they decompose in the bloodstream. If a dog exercises enough to elevate his heart rate, severe complications such as worm or pulmonary embolism (blood clot) leading to respiratory distress and collapse can occur. Treatment for embolism is hospitalization for oxygen therapy and steroids to decrease inflammation in the lungs. Many dogs will do well if this is caught and treated quickly. But it can’t be repeated enough: It’s critical to strictly control the dog’s activity while he undergoes treatment for heartworm infection.  

Other helpful medications include steroids to reduce inflammation as the worms die, as well as pain medication to alleviate discomfort caused by the deep intramuscular injection of melarsomine. Sedatives may be needed to keep a dog rested, calm, and exercise-restricted. According to the American Heartworm Society, “A pivotal factor in reducing the risk of thromboembolic complications is strict exercise restriction.” An antihistamine may also be administered to reduce the risk of anaphylaxis.

More You Can Do To Prevent Heartworm

Monthly preventative medication is the most effective way to prevent canine heartworm infections, but here are a few more:

Eliminate sources of standing water in your dog’s environment. Ask your local or  county mosquito abatement manager what you can do to control mosquitoes. 

Minimize your dog’s time outdoors at prime mosquito feeding hours (dawn, dusk). 

Make sure to administer preventions monthly and use only those specific to canines. Do not use large animal products as it is easy to mis-dose these and cause toxicity. 

If any doses of preventative are missed, contact your veterinarian to discuss appropriate next steps. 

“Slow Kill” Method

A canine heart that is highly populated with heartworms, surgically removed after the death of the patient. Such a heavy burden of worms can obstruct blood flow.

The so-called “slow kill” method of treating a heartworm infection consists of a monthly dose of heartworm preventative medication only; no adulticidal medications are used. Remember, the preventative medications kill any circulating microfilariae as well as any L4 forms of the parasite. But these medications don’t quickly or reliably kill the adult heartworms that damage the dog’s circulatory and pulmonary systems, though they do weaken the adult worms and shorten their life span. The result is that the heartworms may take as long as two years to die, as opposed to a couple of months. 

A 2004 study examining the efficacy of the slow-kill method determined that nearly 30% of dogs still tested positive on a heartworm antigen test after 24 months of monthly heartworm prevention.

Finally, the slow-kill method may not destroy a subpopulation of worms that are resistant to the medication, leading to a worse infection that cannot be treated with macrocyclic lactones.

A slow-kill protocol is inexpensive in terms of money spent by the dog’s owner, but very costly in terms of the dog’s health. Dogs being treated in this way must be strictly rested to prevent the risk of pulmonary blood clots caused by the breakdown of dead heartworms. As long as the heartworms are alive, pathologic changes to the lung and heart tissue continue, and this damage is usually permanent. 

In contrast, the conventional treatment has been shown to clear heartworm infections 98% of the time – and within a couple months of starting the treatment protocol.

The Takeaway Message About Heartworm

Heartworm disease is a serious, often fatal syndrome. Prevention is simple! Administer monthly prevention to protect your dog, minimize mosquitoes in your environment, and work closely with your veterinarian to develop a healthy lifestyle. 

Consistently Administer Preventative

Dogs who work outdoors, such as those used in hunting or herding, are at a higher risk of mosquito bites and thus, heartworm infection.

Are you aware every single time a potentially L3-laden mosquito bites your dog? Of course not; no one is. That’s why the preventative drugs are delivered monthly – to kill any larvae that may have been deposited in your dog in the last month, before any of them can develop into mature heartworms and take up residence in your dog.

With the understanding that heartworm infections start with mosquito bites, some dog owners limit the administration of heartworm preventative drugs to seasons when they can witness the presence of mosquitoes; for example, they may stop giving preventative drugs in fall and winter. Some owners feel their dogs are so rarely outdoors, or that their climate is so mosquito-free, they don’t need to give their dogs heartworm prevention. 

As a veterinarian, I’ve heard these reasons and more. Some of my clients have told me that they live in an area with a particularly low endemic rate of infection or that they’ve never personally experienced heartworm in previous pets. They may also have concerns about the cost of preventative drugs or fear adverse side effects from the administration of preventives.

According to the American Heartworm Society, “Heartworm disease has been diagnosed in all 50 states, and risk factors are impossible to predict. Multiple variables, from climate variations to the presence of wildlife carriers, cause rates of infections to vary dramatically from year to year—even within communities. And because infected mosquitoes can come inside, both outdoor and indoor pets are at risk.”

With rare exceptions, all dogs should be on heartworm prophylaxis (preventative drugs) year-round. Puppies should be started on these medications as early as possible. There are oral, topical, and injectable options on the market, so administration has never been easier. These are weight-based medications and will be adjusted as your dog grows. 

Many prescription heartworm preventions also treat intestinal parasites such as roundworms and hookworms. Some also prevent whipworms and tapeworms. A few are now combined with flea and tick prevention. By administering these medications, you keep your pets healthy, as well as yourself and family members. Some intestinal parasites are zoonotic to people, including hookworms, tapeworms, and roundworms. Children are particularly susceptible. 

To help you make the decision whether to administer heartworm medications, the American Heartworm Society website provides valuable insight on rates of infection in your state, as well as zoomed-in views of certain local areas.  There are incidence maps available for the United States, helpful infographics, and even an area just for kids. Go to www.heartwormsociety.org.

There are many prescription options on the market, and your veterinarian will likely only carry some of these. Discussing your lifestyle and preferences with your veterinarian can help determine which works best for you and your dog. But you need to use something! 

Infection vs. Isolation Risks with Your Puppy

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Canine Aggression

Suddenly, thanks to COVID-19, the whole world is asking the question that’s all too familiar to savvy puppy owners: “How likely is this experience to result in infection, and is this particular interaction worth it?”

There’s a stretch in puppyhood – up through around 4 months – when puppies are typically vaccinated several times but cannot be considered fully immunized against parvovirus and distemper due to the potential for maternal antibody interference. (For in-depth information about serial puppy vaccinations, see “Puppy Vaccines,” WDJ October 2016.)

Lamentably, a convincing swath of research has identified that exact same stretch of time as the almost magic (but fleeting!) period when pups are wide open to new experiences that will set them up for a lifetime of confidence. 

The tension between those two scientific truths presents owners with a dilemma after bringing home an 8-week-old pup. Staying at home those first two months is the only way to keep a pup 100% safe from infectious disease – but doing that could well lead to debilitating behavioral issues down the road. 

So what’s an owner to do?

EDUCATED CHOICES ALLOW SAFETY AND SOCIALIZATION

My own complicated answer is that the safest all-around approach is to thread the needle, work hard to assess risk, and make educated choices. Happily, that just got easier thanks to COVID-19, which seems bent on supplying the dog world with more than its share of silver linings. Suddenly, the instructions that used to seem too tricky to follow are becoming second nature:

  • Avoid likely high-exposure locations and/or individuals? Yup.
  • Be thoughtful about all interactions? Done.
  • Keep to a known safe “pod”? Sure!
  • Ask awkward questions about where exactly everyone’s been, and when? Indeed.

As a dog trainer who specializes in puppyhood coaching, I’m thinking COVID-trained people are going to find it easier to make the nuanced choices for puppies that will result in wonderfully confident, friendly adult dogs. 

BEHAVIORIST VETS SAY:  DON’T WAIT TO SOCIALIZE

Parvovirus and distemper are two deadly canine illnesses that, thankfully, have effective vaccines. The catch? The shots are given in a series over the first months of the pup’s life, and you can’t be sure exactly when a shot will “take” and provide immunity. That’s why we need to approach the entire time period with caution.

Historically, veterinarians have advised owners to keep their pups at home until they were fully immunized. (Simply keeping your distance from other dogs isn’t good enough, because disease can lurk in the environment.) Over the past decades, however, the science has become very clear on how harmful it is for a pup to miss out on its prime socialization period. In fact, the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior (AVSAB, veterinarians who are board-certified in behavior) came out with an official statement in 2018 that says, in part:

“The primary and most important time for puppy socialization is the first three months of life. During this time puppies should be exposed to as many new people, animals, stimuli and environments as can be achieved safely … it should be the standard of care for puppies to receive such socialization before they are fully vaccinated.” 

To read the full statement, click here.

While some vets still feel safer giving the black-and-white guidance to wait – after all, it’s much easier for clients to follow – most now advise careful socialization. “Make no mistake, parvo and distemper are still out there, in pockets, everywhere,” says Maine veterinarian, author and radio show host Dr. John Hunt. “But there should be a push for proper, safe socialization from weaning through 16 weeks.”

ISOLATION OUTCOMES

Just like with COVID, the bigger the social circle, the more risk involved. But this developmentally fantastic moment can still be a “yes” if undertaken with care.

The consequences of a puppy’s lack of socialization during that key time frame can be heartbreaking. In fact, AVSAB points out that the number one cause of death for dogs less than 3 years of age is behavioral issues, not infectious diseases. In extreme cases, fearful dogs can become aggressive and bite; in some cases they may be surrendered to shelters or rescues, and sometimes are ultimately euthanized. It’s terribly sad – and often preventable. How? With a little “vaccine” called socialization. 

From the moment puppies are born – and maybe even sooner! – the potential for learning about the world begins. The more positive interactions those pups have with novel sights, smells, sounds, people, and animals, the more they’ll confidently approach new things for the rest of their lives. The benefits that follow cannot be overstated: It means happy walks amid other dogs and people, easy hosting and gatherings with extended family, calm vet visits, and the delight of taking your friendly dog on vacation. 

In contrast, if you wait to venture out of the home cocoon until all shots are complete, it may be too late. Starting at around 4 months old, biology tells a puppy that anything new and different might be a threat. You may have a dog who is forever skittish (or worse) around new people, other dogs, unfamiliar places. Until you live with a dog like that, you can’t understand just how sad and difficult it is. Everything is hard. 

I foster litters of puppies, safely exposing them to everything that I can in their time with me. I’ve seen first-hand what happens when, after adoption, socialization comes to an abrupt halt, and the pup spends the next two months “safe” in her own predictable house. At the 6-month mark, the well-intentioned owners are devastated about their now-fearful pup, explaining, “It struck us that two months wasn’t very long to wait, and we thought we could just make up for it later.” Alas, biology disagrees.

THE EASY PART: AT-HOME SOCIALIZATION

A visit in your own yard with your neighbor’s gentle, puppy-friendly, fully vaccinated adult dog is a great idea.

There’s one thing everybody agrees on: The easy, first step of socialization is to make the most of the puppy’s time at home. If you work at it, even your own house can offer novelty. 

Note: Be careful not to overwhelm your pup with this! The point is to help him learn that the world may be loud or unpredictable, but it’s always safe and can be a lot of fun. Go at your pup’s speed. If he seems worried – perhaps not taking treats, or revealing his tension by grabbing at them much more roughly than usual – increase the distance between the stimuli and the pup, and/or decrease the intensity of the stimulus. 

* Don’t shield your pup from “scary” noises like the vacuum or leaf blower. Instead, seek out those experiences for the pup – but control the stimulus, using your pup’s reaction as a guide. Start at a distance and pair the stimulus with many small treats. If he becomes frightened, increase the distance between the stimulus and the pup. Ideally, he continues to cheerfully play and interact with you. 

* Sit out front when it’s busy on your street and help your puppy enjoy passing trucks, bikes, strollers, or other dogs by offering tiny bits of chicken or cheese each time. 

* Play dress-up! Have everybody in your household make a practice of wearing “strange” things: hats, masks, hoodies, big clumpy boots, backpacks. Keep your voices happy and light and playful. Got old crutches in the attic? Use them! You get the idea. 

* Have pup walk on every possible surface in and around your house: carpet, tile, hardwood, grass, stone, dirt, yoga mat, cushion, wobbly cardboard box. Make it a fun game with – you guessed it! – treats or your puppy’s favorite toys.

* Use the radio, TV, and even specially designed doggy soundtracks to make sure your pup hears babies cry, young kids scream with delight, big men talk in deep voices, etc., and has a good time doing so.

* Make a point of inviting over every category of human you can: a nice preschooler, a grandmotherly neighbor, a super-tall guy. Even a three-minute visit makes a difference. Is the puppy nervous? Add distance, squat down, lower voices, add treats, be patient. 

* Turn any visits from the plumber or electrician into a serendipitous socialization opportunity. Ask if they’d mind tossing your puppy a treat, or handing it over if the puppy is confident and curious. 

MAKING NUANCED CHOICES IS HARD WORK

The simple addition of a few large blankets and some hand sanitizer can make a public park safe for your pup. Carry pup to the spot and allow folks to come say a gentle hello to your puppy on the blanket. Toys and treats can help cement positive associations.

Doing as much as you can at home is a wonderful start, but it can’t compare with getting your pup out and about. This is where your COVID learning kicks in. Be smart. Plan ahead. Minimize risk. 

The first rule is easy: Avoid unknown dogs and the places they frequent. No dog parks, pet stores, or animal shelters until your pup is fully protected by that last vaccination. 

Everything else falls in the “well, it depends” category, which means you have to put on your thinking cap. As you ponder each situation, think outside the box. How about bringing a blanket to cover the ground while you and pup sit at your local park, greeting people? Or expose your pup to new folks and sounds on your town’s Main Street by using a stroller or carrier, so pup can enjoy without paws touching the ground. (Get pup used to it at home, first, so the stroller itself isn’t scary!) Just one positive 15-minute visit like these in this key time period can dramatically shape a pup’s view of the world. It’s worth the work.

REDUCING RISK IN PUPPY PLAYDATES

Puppy playdates are a part of socialization worth a special mention. They can turn early puppyhood from a challenge into a joy by offering an appropriate outlet for that mouthy play and helping to wear out our little furniture-shredding friends. Playdates also dramatically build a puppy’s doggy communication skills, which help a dog defuse potentially unsafe encounters later in life. So seek those playdates out – but do your homework because, unlike playdates with adult dogs, these friends aren’t yet fully vaccinated. If their owner isn’t being careful, they could expose your pup. So play only with pups who:

• have been in their homes (and away from a high-risk location like a shelter or puppy mill) for at least two weeks, 

• are exhibiting absolutely no symptoms,

• are in the middle of their vaccination series with a vet, 

• belong to an owner who is being careful about exposures. 

As you work to make nuanced decisions about who your pup meets and where he goes, remember that you can stack the deck in your pup’s favor. “Good nutrition, regular deworming, flea and tick control, and good hygiene during this time are paramount in enabling a puppy to develop a healthy immune system,” says Dr. Hunt. 

This COVID-19 is horrific – and yet it has increased the time people can spend with their dogs, resulted in soaring numbers of fostering and adoptions, lured many people into fostering, and increased many owners’ interest in dog training. I believe it will also help puppy owners practice the assessment skills so critical to disease risk management. Then more folks can confidently get their little puppies out and about, forming a lifelong impression that the world is full of new and wonderful things. 

Meditations on Raising Small Children with Dogs

2
The author's son and young mixed-breed dog. Pip, enjoying the active outdoor life in Montana together.

My young dog flies across the yard, tossing his ball in the air, chasing it as it hits the ground, then picks it up and tosses it again. I look over to see my toddler take off running in the opposite direction, giggling wildly. One arm is in the air, his fingers clutching a stuffed toy. The happiness level in this scene is reaching epic heights when the toy slips from his fingers and tumbles to the ground. The pup sees this, races over, and snatches it up.

I gasp in anticipation of howls of protest from my son. But, something else happens. Something fascinating and much quieter. 

This small, 20-month-old human pauses, walks over to the ball the dog dropped, calls him, and holds it out to him. The dog drops the stuffed animal and takes the ball from his hand gently. The boy picks up his toy, and they both return to their previous play.

And, exhale.

This scene was not a lucky fluke. These two were demonstrating thoughtfully developed relationship skills, slowly cultivated and practiced over (and over) for many months. As their mutual caregiver, the work of creating a respectful, loving relationship between all members of my family, two-legged and four, was incredibly important to me, but I had little knowledge about and no experience with integrating kids and dogs. 

RATIONALE FOR INTENTIONAL RELATIONSHIP-BUILDING

In consultation with experts and by reviewing past issues of WDJ (see a partial list on page 11), I learned the best ways to get your resident dog or dogs ready for a baby, good management for safety and sanity, and considerations to keep in mind should you be crazy enough to want to add a puppy to your family when you have a young child.  With this critical knowledge, I was then able to begin the work of building these relationships. 

Hard, yes, but so worthwhile, especially in light of new research. 

In a recent study published in Pediatric Research, scientists found, after adjusting for other factors, that children ages 3 to 5 from dog-owning families were 30% less likely to have conduct problems than children of the same age in families without pet dogs. They were also 40% less likely to have difficulty relating to peers, and 34% more likely to show empathy and concern for others. 

These data suggest that having a dog and interacting with it, through play or family walks, may be an important mechanism for facilitating young children’s social-emotional development.

PRESERVE PEACE PROACTIVELY

As many in the dog world are acutely aware, laying a great foundation for a puppy to enjoy successful future relationships with kids calls for mindful socialization of puppies with children and positive interactions between them during the pup’s key developmental windows (for more on this, see page 10). Still, life is dynamic and learning about the world is ongoing for dogs and humans alike.

Mosey, my Border Collie, was raised with and lovingly handled by children from birth. As he grew, I made a point to continue cultivating his respectful behavior with children. Early on, he became that dog who would see a stroller in the distance and start getting the serious waggles. 

However, spending time with and around children occasionally is a quite different thing than living with them from infancy, full time.

From the moment my son could crawl, if there was a dog in view, he was moving at a shockingly fast pace in that direction, drawn to the dog as if by magnetism. The speed-crawling happened at the same time his fast fingers got very grabby (a tough phase for us all), which was a worrisome combination for the otherwise kid-loving dog. Mosey’s body language screamed: “This makes me nervous!” 

I knew instantly that I needed to change this interaction or it could devolve into a negative experience for both of them. Managing the situation for the safety of both of them was easy enough, but I also recognized that positively guiding this interaction would provide an avenue to help them understand and respect one another.

I asked Celia Caldwell, a licensed clinical social worker in Missoula, Montana, who has worked for decades helping both foster children and dogs find and settle into loving homes, how I should best approach this. She advised, “You have to be a neutral Switzerland and hold safe space for both sides, allowing them to come together on their own terms.” 

Caldwell stressed the importance of distance and making sure they both were able to express their curiosity about one another without pressuring or worrying the other. 

In past articles in WDJ, Training Editor Pat Miller has advocated for the liberal use of baby gates (to secure those neutral lands), which my huband and I employed at any time when we couldn’t actively supervise the interactions between Mosey and our son Ansel. But, given an important bit of wisdom from Caldwell, we also strived to keep relations easy and fun between both of the knee-high parties. 

“Remember that there is no bad behavior here, neither one is in the wrong,” advised Caldwell. “They simply need to learn how to understand one another and that takes time. Relationships take time and patience to develop.” 

So, as just one tactic to keep them safe, separate, and unhassled, as soon as I’d see my son heading toward Mosey, I’d shout, “Incoming!” and grab Mosey’s beloved Frisbee. He’d race outside, and I’d throw the flying disc for him. A typical Border Collie, it took maybe two repetitions for him to learn this new cue. 

We’d sometimes play another game when Mo flew back in with his Frisbee and stood holding it in front of me. I would pick up my son who would tap the Frisbee; this would make Mosey shake his head and wave the toy wildly, which would prompt equally wild giggles from my son. This became a daily shared joy.

When my son was 9 months old, I watched him peering out the window and, to my surprise, Mosey quietly sidled up to and leaned against him and he leaned back. They sat together contentedly watching the birds, and my heart exploded. 

Getting to that moment was by no means instant, but they’ve been growing closer ever since, proving the tremendous value of patience.

PAY ATTENTION TO YOUR BLIND SPOTS

Pip and Ansel playing in a bike trailer like any two brothers.

Not all children are instinctually eager to jump into the canine fray, however. Just like with dogs, personalities and temperaments vary. Children with a cautious, slow-to-warm-up temperament prefer to investigate every situation carefully. These children learn through observation and may be more inclined to think through situations before they act, which can be a valuable instinct. 

These children have as much potential to develop respectful, loving relationships with the four-legged members of your family as the dog-magnets, but will just require extra time and patience to get there. As their caretakers, it’s our job to pay attention and meet our child where they are and guide them through the world at their pace. 

This is easier said than done. Sometimes – surprisingly often – we get in the way.

“What I stress with foster parents is the importance of leaving your ego out of it,” Caldwell told me. “You have to let the child decide how much is too much and when more is okay. And you won’t always do this perfectly. Expect to make mistakes.” 

Well, I did. When we added a mixed-breed puppy to our family, we were thrilled to discover that Pip the pup loved our toddler as much as our toddler loved dogs. Pip is the ultimate Velcro dog, and he chose Ansel to be physically attached to – so cute! So sweet!

But even my dog-loving toddler had limits I needed to honor. Ansel  began to express a weariness toward the amount of physical contact that Pip wanted to have with him, and I admit that I failed to see this right away. Had I kept Ansel’s complaints in my blind spot, I may have set their relationship back. It wasn’t until he wailed in utter frustration one day, as the pup plopped on him for the third time while he was assembling his trains, that I finally realized the error in my ways and created the space my son needed.

Again, I could easily manage this situation – pop the pup in a crate with a tasty treat! – but it presented a good opportunity to build the puppy’s skills and develop mutual respect.

I mat-trained Pip, setting the mat near wherever my son was playing, so when Pip got too close, I could ask him to go to his mat, where he would sit quietly. Months of practicing this lead to the day when I heard my son say, “Go to the mat” and looked up to see the pup go lie down, giving Ansel the space he needed. By no means did I expect a small child to play this role, but I was thrilled that he had learned through my excessive repetition to communicate respectfully and that the pup was happy to comply. 

Through this ongoing work, I’ve gained a deeper understanding of the human-animal bond and the capacity of species to trust and genuinely care for one another. 

A Few Past WDJ Articles About Kids & Dogs

Mosey the Border Collie doesn’t encourage as much physical contact with the toddler as you Pip, who is happy being Vecroed to humans whenever possible

• “Kids and Dogs,” August 2019. The formula for keeping children and canines safe is simple: Parents need to be attentive, assiduous about management, and quick to separate them at the first sign of the dog’s discomfort.

• “Dogs and Children: How to Keep Them Both Safe,” March 2018.  Combining kids and dogs in your family can be magical and heartwarming, or cause a devastating tragedy. Here’s how to boost the odds of the former and prevent the latter.

• “The Puppy-Raising Challenge,” November 2017.  Managing and training a young puppy can be exhausting, even for highly experienced dog trainers. Here are tips for taking some of the pressure off. 

• “Teaching Kids to Love Dogs From an Early Age,” May 2012. How to raise kids who get along well with dogs and dogs who love kids in return. 

• “Selecting the Best Family Dog and Preparing Him for Children,” August 2009. Protect everyone in your family (the dog, too) by selecting a good family dog and getting him ready for kids.

Citations

• “The relationship between dog ownership, dog play, family dog walking, and pre-schooler social-emotional development: Findings from the PLAYCE observational study,” Pediatric Research, July 6, 2020 

• “Evidence of large genetic influences on dog ownership in the Swedish Twin Registry has implications for understanding domestication and health associations,” Scientific Reports, May 2019

• “Mat Training Tips, Whole Dog Journal, January 2020. How a simple mat (and a little bit of training) can enhance your dog’s life – and yours, too! 

 

Long-time WDJ contributor Kathryn Socie-Dunning lives in Montana with her husband, toddler son, and two snow-loving dogs.

Dog House Rules

Some people are horrified by the prospect of dogs sleeping on the bed - or under the covers! Others absolutely love sleeping with their dogs. There is no right or wrong here! You get to choose what works for your household. © Aleksandr Zotov | Dreamstime.com

Once upon a time, societal norms dictated that if pet dogs failed to comply with strict rules for their behavior indoors, they were banished to the outdoors. When I was a child, dog trainers of the day often told clients that allowing their dog on the bed or other furniture would give the dog too much privilege and let him think he could take over (dominate) the household. 

Well, the times, they are a-changing. 

These days, progressive, science-based, force-free training and behavior professionals recognize that most dogs are not trying to be dominant when on the couch; they are just trying to be comfortable – and perhaps want to be close to the humans they love! 

 You can use couch time as reinforcement for behaviors that you like (such as being friendly and cuddly) and temporarily revoke couch privileges for undesirable behaviors (such as being too pushy or insistent about climbing into your lap if you prefer your dog curl up quietly next to you). A cheerful, “Oops, off!” (with a treat tossed onto the floor if you haven’t yet taught the “Off” cue to your dog) will remove her from your lap, and a “Wait” cue will keep her on the floor until you are ready to invite her up. No dominance about it!

Also, the truth is, what you allow your dog to do in your own home is your choice – and while it may result in behaviors that others consider “bad manners,” that’s really  up to you. In your house, you get to make the rules!

Here are some common rules from the past that many dogs (and their humans) now scoff at:

■ No dogs on the furniture. From 60 years ago to today, all the members of my family have allowed dogs on the furniture – and none of our dogs have ever staged a canine coup. 

I love the solid feel of a warm dog’s body against my back in bed, and my evenings are generally spent on the sofa watching television and typing on my laptop, with our small dog Sunny snuggled up against my right side and medium/large Kai curled up on my left. I suspect Kai lived in a “No dogs on the furniture” household before he came to us; even after living with me and my husband for almost six years, I still have to reassure him that it’s okay to jump up on the sofa and often need to coax him up with a treat (although he jumps on the bed with no coaxing needed). 

Of course, if you choose not to have dogs (and dog hair, drool, dirt, and leaves) on your furniture, that’s fine, too. But you are missing out on one of the greatest joys of sharing your home with a dog! We keep our furniture covered and whisk the covers off when company comes to reveal pristine furniture underneath.

Note: If allowing your dog on the furniture contributes to an inappropriate behavior such as growling as someone approaches, then you may need to restrict furniture access while you work to modify the behavior. See “Changing a Resource-Guarder,” WDJ May 2020, and “Resource-Guarding and What to Do About It,” August 2015, for more information about management and training protocols for this behavior.

■ No begging at meals. When I was a child, my mom often complained about my dad’s habit of feeding food scraps to our dogs from the table – but he did it anyway. This dynamic is intact in my home some 50-plus years later, as my husband Paul freely tosses bits of cheese, veggie sticks, popcorn, and whatever else he might be eating to our dogs. Sunny and Kai politely sit six or eight feet back from his chair, waiting in eager anticipation for the next tidbit. 

While I freely share treats with my dogs throughout our days together, I choose to not feed them while I am eating my meals, and hence they never “beg” from me while I eat. 

The good news: Dogs can learn to be attentive to one treat-dispensing family member and not bug others.

If you want to ensure your canine family members don’t get too pushy for treats but you’d still like to toss them a bit of your food from time to time, you can use mat training to teach them some impulse control along with their proximity to your table and the delicacies thereon. (See “Useful Matters,” January 2020.)

Small dogs are sometimes at a disadvantage when it comes to getting your attention, seeing the expression on your face, or reaching your hand in search of petting. Thus, they may feel they have to jump up in order to obtain these things. It’s only a problem if you don’t like it (or if you allow them to jump up on people who don’t like it)

■ No jumping up. I used to be as adamant as anyone about teaching my dogs to greet people politely – and we still teach polite greetings in the Basic Good Manners classes taught at my training center. However, Sunny, our 25-pound Pomeranian/American Eskimo Dog-mix, has convinced us there can be value in having your dog jump up. 

For one thing, Sunny is reasonably small and there’s generally no real harm done if he puts his paws up on you. For another, when he came to us, he was somewhat wary of new people, especially men (including Paul), and I didn’t want to discourage him from interacting with people in any way. Finally, he delights in leaping up in the air so I can catch him in my arms, and that’s just so darn cute I don’t have the heart to discourage the behavior. In fact, we show it off to friends.

You can still teach your dog to greet people politely but also teach her a “jump up” cue, making sure she gets reinforced for jumping up only if she’s asked to do so. This is especially helpful if one or more family members enjoy having the dog jump up on them. (For more about teaching a polite greeting, see “Meet and Greet? Or Not!” September 2018.)

■ Only go to the bathroom outdoors. Whaaat? Is there any other acceptable alternative to this? 

Actually, there is! People who live in in highrise buildings sometimes find it to be near impossible to get their dogs outside in time; in this case, it makes sense to create a “legal” indoor canine bathroom. 

This doesn’t mean the dog can go anywhere she wants in the apartment; there is still a designated place to eliminate. There is a variety of indoor litter boxes and types of absorbent substrate for dogs available in pet specialty stores and online. Some use litter, some use artificial grass, and some use real grass. Just Google “dog litter box” to find them.

■ No barking. It’s interesting to note how many of the old rules have to do with natural, normal canine behaviors. Sadly, far too many trainers today encourage their clients to use “no-bark” collars (shock or spray) to punish their dogs for barking, rather than allowing dogs to bark when it’s appropriate and teaching them to be quiet when it’s not. (See “Why Dogs Bark and How to Stop Them,” March 2017.)

We happen to have two dogs who are quite adept at barking, and both of them have high-pitched barks that can grate on your nerves. We’re fortunate that we live smack dab in the middle of our 80-acre farm; I can turn them out in the backyard and if they choose to bark at the horse in the pasture behind their fence, or wildlife in the woods, no one will complain. 

When we are in the house, I do appreciate them barking to let me know that someone has pulled in the driveway (I can’t hear the cars drive in, but they can). However, the arousal/excitement barking when we head toward the door to go to the barn can get on my nerves. We’re working on that one. 

MY HOUSE RULES

The Miller family dogs Kai (the Kelpie) and Sunny (the Pomeranian/American Eskimo Dog-mix) are welcome on the furniture – as long as they are being calm, friendly, and not roughhousing. If they forget these rules, they get invited off the furniture – simple!

Lest you get the impression that my dogs are unruly monsters who run amok in our home, let me assure you that is not the case. We do have rules, just not the same rules that were once commonplace in many dog homes:

■  Wait for the food bowl. Not only is this just a polite behavior and the easiest way to teach a “Wait” behavior, it’s also an excellent impulse-control exercise and keeps feeding-time chaos to a minimum. 

The chaos part was more important for us in past years when we had five dogs, but it’s helpful even with our current two. Sunny and Kai each go to their feeding spots while I prepare their meals and offer a default sit as I approach them to feed. I cue them to “Wait,” place the bowl on the floor, mark with a “Yes,” feed a treat, and then say “Okay” and release them to eat. (See “Wait for the Food Bowl,” next page.)

■  Wait at the door. This life-saving rule applies at every door that goes to the outside world, as well as getting out of the car. It’s easy to teach and is great insurance against door-darting.  Sunny and Kai have gotten so good at it we can even leave barn gates open while we’re feeding horses and they don’t go out unless invited. If you have already taught “Wait for the Food Bowl,” it’s a pretty simple matter to generalize it to doors and other places.

■  Wait at the top of the stairs.
I like this one because it allows me to make my way safely down the stairs without worrying about tripping over excited dogs. Again, it is simple to generalize this one quickly if your dog already knows “Wait” in a different application. Start at the top of the stairs, tell your dog to “Wait,” go down one step, mark, return and feed. Continue one step at a time until you’re all the way down, then invite your dog(s) to join you.

■  No wrestling in the house. There’s nothing wrong with allowing your dogs to roughhouse indoors if that’s what you want; I just prefer they do their wrestling outside. They play hard together in the barn and have learned that I will put them in the backyard if they wrestle indoors, so they now use it to let me know they want to – or have to – go outside. I love that they have taught me a cue!

■  No indoor arousal barking. Okay, true confession time: We are still working on this one. 

It wasn’t a problem until Sunny arrived in our home two years ago, but he can be quite vocal, and when he starts, Kai happily joins in. 

I judiciously use treats for “quiet” (positive reinforcement – dog’s behavior makes a good thing happen) and halt forward progress and turn my back when barking erupts (negative punishment – dog’s behavior makes a good thing go away). By using these complementary tactics, I can now make it down the stairs and out the back door on the way to the barn at 6 in the morning without a cacophony of barking. I’m sure when this pandemic is over and we once again have house guests, they will appreciate that.

Other than those, we of course have the normal, obvious house rules – no chewing on things you’re not supposed to chew on, no getting up on the counters, no chasing the cats, no getting in the garbage, etc. But overall, having fewer rules and allowing your dog to make more of her own choices in your home makes for a behaviorally healthier companion and a better relationship between the two of you. So yes, have the rules that you need and want, but don’t let anyone else tell you what they should be. It’s your house; you get to make the rules. 

Wait for the Food Bowl

What do I most appreciate about the “Wait” behavior? It’s easy for dogs to learn and easy for them to generalize “Wait!” to a variety of situations in which you want them to pause where they are for a few moments, until given a cue to proceed. 

Here’s how to teach this highly useful behavior:

1. With your dog sitting, facing you, hold her bowl at chest level (with food in it, topped with tasty treats) and say “Wait.” 

2. Lower the food bowl toward the floor two inches. If your dog remains sitting, click your clicker (or use a verbal marker, such as the word “Yes!”), raise the bowl back up again, and feed her a treat from the bowl. If she gets up, say “Oops” and ask her to sit again. If she remains in place, lower the bowl two inches again, mark (click or “Yes!”), raise the bowl, and treat. 

3. Repeat this step several times until she remains sitting as you lower the bowl. Mark and treat each time.

4. Gradually move the bowl closer to the floor with succeeding repetitions until you can place it on the floor two feet away from her and pick it back up without her getting up or trying to eat it.

5. Finally, place the bowl on the floor and say a release cue to tell her to eat. Note: Choose your release cue carefully. Many people use “Okay!” as their release cue, but a common word like this may accidentally release your dog when you are casually speaking to someone as the dog waits. Consider alternatives such as “Free!” or “Done!”

A really helpful thing about teaching this behavior is that you have at least one built-in daily practice session (possibly two, since many of us feed our dogs twice a day). To teach other Wait applications, break the behavior down to small steps: Wait while you reach for the door. Wait while you jiggle the doorknob. Wait while you open the door a crack. Wait while you open it a little farther. And so on. 

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