Subscribe

The best in health, wellness, and positive training from America’s leading dog experts

Home Blog Page 121

Fi Smart Dog Collar Review

5
Fi Smart Dog Collar
Fi Smart Dog Collar

As our review of the Whistle Go Explore and Fitbark GPS activity/tracking collars (“Helping You Keep Track,” WDJ December 2020) went to press, we spotted an online ad for the Fi Smart Dog Collar (pronounced “Fie” as in “WiFi”) and decided to review it, too.

We bought and began testing Fi’s Series 1 collar in November 2020 – just before Fi released a Series 2 collar. Argh! Fi says the Series 2 offers a longer battery life, reinforced hardware (to address reports by Series 1 users of D-ring failures), and an upgraded antenna for improved tracking in remote locations. 

Having purchased the Series 1 collar, and with our review of its major competitors already in print, we asked Fi if they’d send us a Series 2 for review. They agreed, but reported that strong orders for the product led to a fulfillment delay. Thus, we weren’t able to get our hands on a Series 2 in time for this review. What follows is our review of a Series 1 collar, along with reports of Series 2 improvements from consumers in a Fi user’s group on Facebook, as well as from Fi.

THE FI SMART COLLAR GPS ACTIVITY TRACKER AT A GLANCE

Product Name
Maker’s Website
WDJ Rating
Price
Monthly Fee
Guarantee
ChargingComments, Pros, Cons
Fi smart collar

tryfi.com

Rating: 3 Paws (out of 4)

”A good product with one or two significant flaws.”
$149 from Fi
Not available from Amazon

Subscription costs: $99/year

30-day free trial for tracking; afterward, a subscription is needed.
Charges via a small base unit.

Charge for “homebody dogs” said to last as long as 3 months. In our test, it took 7 weeks of twice-daily dog walks plus occasional other adventures to draw just 60% of the battery’s charge.
Things we like: The battery life is impressive. The 30-day free trial and ability to use the collar to track physical activity even without a GPS subscription are nice features. We enjoyed the ability to see the specific route traveled during a walk (similar to human fitness apps). The social media community and ranking features of the app are a nice touch.

Things we dislike: Reporting occasional car rides as walks is a frustrating issue we hope Fi finds a way to fix. The size of the device means it’s likely too big for many toy breeds. The device can only be used with Fi-compatible collars.

HOW FI WORKS

Most of the time, the Fi gathers location information via Bluetooth from the included base unit or from a connected mobile device, rather than constantly searching for GPS points, which rapidly consumes the battery charge. When the “lost-dog” mode is engaged, Fi uses three constellations of satellites combined with AT&T’s LTE-M network coverage to triangulate position and send data to the user via a mobile-device app.

The Fi app reports the distance traveled, steps taken by your dog, and time take to walk your dog.

DESIGN AND PRICING

While the previously reviewed Whistle Go Explore and FitBark GPS trackers are designed to attach to a dog’s existing collar, the Fi Smart Collar is built into a custom collar. The tracking device itself can be removed from this collar, but it can be used only on Fi-compatible collars. Overall, the Fi is sleeker than the boxy Whistle and FitBark trackers.

The tracking device is about the size of a Matchbox toy car and is made of brushed steel and black plastic. A thin stripe in the middle functions as a light bar that’s controlled by the app. The Fi Smart Collar comes in four sizes (S, M, L, and XL); the smallest Fi fits a neck circumference as small as 111/2 inches (and is not recommended for tiny breeds). 

The Fi Smart Collar sells for $149. GPS tracking is free for the first 30 days; after that, GPS service plans start at $99 for one year with minor discounts on multi-year plans. Unlike the other devices we tested, Fi will record and report the dog’s physical activity (not location) without a paid service plan. 

SET UP

To use the collar, download the Fi app, create a profile for your dog, and designate his or her “safe zones.” Unique to Fi is the use of a small base unit that doubles as a charger and connects to the tracker using Bluetooth Low Energy (BLE) technology. The advantage, says a Fi representative, is that when the tracker is connected to a base unit or associated mobile device, it doesn’t need to access GPS location data via the tracker, which improves overall battery performance. A reported improvement to the Series 2 collar is WiFi integration, said to offer longer battery life when away from the base or mobile device, better signal coverage, and faster, more reliable escape detection. 

We like how the tracking unit magnetically attaches to the base/charger, and the tracker charges quickly. Be sure to have a back-up collar with ID tags on hand when charging the Fi Smart Collar since the all-in-one device must be removed, leaving the dog without a collar. 

BATTERY LIFE

Fi estimates a fully charged battery will last up to three months for dogs who are always home, up to two months on dogs who leave the house for daily neighborhood walks, and up to three weeks on especially active dogs who spend a lot of time away from home in situations where the collar might not maintain a reliable Bluetooth connection to the base unit or owner’s mobile device. 

Our tests confirm that these estimates are not overstated. When test-dog Saber stayed home during the workweek but joined me on twice-daily walks and occasional weekend hiking excursions, the Fi still had more than 40 percent of its battery charge after seven weeks. Impressive! And the WiFi integration on the Series 2 collar is said to produce even better overall battery life.

Fi claims the battery will last for up to two days in “lost dog mode,” where it’s relying on GPS to refresh the dog’s location every minute. This is important, as any tracker is useless with a dead battery. However, “up to two days” means when starting with a fully charged battery. When using any tracking device on a canine escape artist, closely monitor the battery to keep it fully charged.

WATER RESISTANCE AND DURABILITY

The Fi Smart Collar is waterproof and saltwater spray resistant. It’s also designed with an armored aluminum face plate and reinforced internal metal armor to help protect against gnashing teeth during bitey-face play.

APPLICATION REPORTING

The Fi app uses an algorithm to measure steps taken as well as miles traveled. In our test, Saber’s reported step count was consistently close to double that of my steps, as reported by my FitBit.

Activity is reported in three categories: Time spent and steps taken in a designated safe zone; time spent, steps taken, and distance traveled on a walk; and time spent and steps taken during play. Activities are reported chronologically throughout the day, with a map showing the activity’s location – including the full route taken on a walk, similar to exercise apps such as RunKeeper or MapMyRun. 

The Fi app also offers fun community features such as photo sharing with other Fi users, as well as activity rankings including overall, by breed, and within your state and city. I’ll admit that when I set out to walk twice a day, it was fun to watch Saber’s rank climb to the top 15% of all Fi-wearing dogs.

ACCURACY/RELIABILITY

We simulated a lost dog scenario by asking a neighbor to take Saber on a walk. I watched Saber leave and waited for notification that he’d left the safe zone – which took a full three minutes. Fi claims on its website that it provides “the fastest, most accurate way to be notified when your dog escapes.” We found it to be faster than the FitBark, but not nearly as fast as the Whistle Go Explore, which prompted an alert on the phone app within one minute of Saber’s “escape.”

Escape detection is said to be another area of improvement with the Series 2 Fi Smart Collar. Note that location tracking may be slower in landscapes that are densely built up, as well as remote areas with limited cellular coverage. 

Once I received an alert that Saber had left a “safe zone” I activated the Fi’s “lost dog” mode, triggering GPS-based location updates every 60 seconds. Its location information was extremely accurate. I easily found Saber strolling with my neighbor about two blocks away from home. 

One frustrating issue is the frequency with which Fi registers car rides as walks. Saber might be fast, but he definitely never walks at 65 miles per hour! Fi’s tech support advised keeping the app open in the background throughout the day to reduce these inaccurate reports. It definitely helped, but it also appeared to draw a significant amount of my phone’s battery. Fi is aware of this issue and says it’s working to resolve this with future app updates.

FINAL APPRAISAL

No technology is perfect, which is why no GPS tracker should be a substitute for good fences and training a solid recall. Whereas the Whistle and FitBark products we reviewed combine GPS tracking capabilities with a variety of health and activity insights, Fi says its tracker is designed first and foremost to be a lost-dog device that gives owners the best chance of being reunited with their dogs. Based on battery life alone, this claim feels solid – since no GPS tracker can overcome a prematurely dead battery. 

Emerging Variants of Coronavirus May Affect Pets More Severely

8
Photo courtesy of Texas A&M CVMBS Communications: A Texas A&M research team travels to the homes of humans with COVID-19 infections, to collect samples from household pets, including swabs from the nose, mouth, rectum, and fur, and a small blood sample.

Just over a year ago, the first article I ever had to write that mentioned COVID-19 was published in this space. It seems like forever ago, but at the time, dog owners everywhere were panicking at the news that COVID had been found in the pet dog belonging to a human COVID patient in Hong Kong. For a minute or two, there were widely shared reports of dogs and other pets being abandoned in the streets of China.

Fortunately for dogs and the billions of people who live with dogs – not to mention the millions of people who work with dogs (boarding, training, daycare, grooming, walking, veterinary staff, SAR and protection dog handlers, rescue volunteers, etc., etc.) – it developed that the virus that has turned our lives upside-down can infect the pets who live with infected humans, but the infection doesn’t seem to adversely affect them. And there haven’t been any documented cases of COVID-infected pets causing infections in their owners.

However, thanks to ongoing studies being carried out by researchers at Texas A&M University’s College of Veterinary Medicine & Biomedical Sciences (CVMBS), there is growing evidence to support the fact that emerging and increasingly dangerous variants of the virus can not only infect the pets living with human COVID patients who were infected with those variants, they may actually be correlated with myocarditis in some infected pets. Myocarditis is an inflammation of the heart tissue that, in serious cases, can cause heart failure.

According to a March 19, 2021 report in the journal Science, 11 pets (eight cats and three dogs) who had been admitted to animal hospitals in the United Kingdom between December 2020 and February2021 and found to be suffering from myocarditis were found to be infected with the strain of COVID-19 referred to as the United Kingdom variant (B.1.1.7). According to Science: “None of the animals had a previous history of heart disease, yet all had come down with symptoms ranging from lethargy and loss of appetite to rapid breathing and fainting. Lab tests revealed cardiac abnormalities, including irregular heartbeats and fluid in the lungs, all symptoms seen in human cases of COVID-19.

“Seven of the animals got polymerase chain reaction tests, and three came back positive for SARS-CoV-2—all with the B.1.1.7 variant…. SARS-CoV-2 antibody tests on four of the other animals picked up evidence that two of them had been infected with the virus.”

Bringing this news closer to home, last week, researchers in Texas reported that they, too, have found pets who were infected with the B.1.1.7 variant – pets who lived with humans who were also infected with the U.K. strain of COVID. Happily, the Texas pets showed no sign of disease at the time they were tested, though they began to sneeze a week or so later.

According to Texas A&M Today, B.1.1.7 spreads more easily and quickly than other variants and may be associated with an increased risk of death compared to other forms of SARS-CoV-2. “Since its first detection in humans in the United States in December 2020, this variant has now been confirmed in close to 4,000 people in the U.S. across 50 jurisdictions and is predicted to become the country’s dominant viral strain in the coming months.”

As part of the ongoing “Texas A&M COVID-19 & Pets” study, in which researchers go to the homes of people recently diagnosed with COVID-19 to test their pets, more than 450 animals living in the Brazos County area have been tested since June 2020. All the pets lived in a household where at least one human family member tested positive for COVID-19. The goals of the study are to learn more about transmission of SARS-CoV-2 between people and animals, the potential impact of the virus on animal health, and whether animals may be a reservoir for the virus (maintaining the virus in communities). Of the more than 60 animals confirmed with SARS-CoV-2 infection in the study to date, less than a quarter were reported to show signs of disease around the time of the owner’s diagnosis, most commonly including sneezing, coughing, diarrhea, or being less active than normal. To the research team’s knowledge, all symptomatic animals recovered without any need for veterinary care.

But given the ability of the Coronavirus to evolve and develop new variants, some of which may prove to display an increased ability to spread and/or sicken humans and non-human animals, pet owners need to demonstrate continued care to do anything they can to prevent potential transmission of the virus:

  • People who are infected with COVID-19 should stay away from pets and other animals, just like they do for other humans, in order to prevent the spread of the virus to animals.
  • If contact cannot be avoided, people with COVID-19 should wear a mask around pets and wash their hands before and after interacting with them.
  • If you have been diagnosed or think it’s likely that you were infected with COVID-19 and your pet is showing signs of myocarditis or other illness, talk to your veterinarian, who can assess your pet for common illnesses before looking into possible SARS-CoV-2 infection.

How To Supervise Good Puppy Play

puppy play
A terrific adult dog is worth her weight in gold for a puppy playdate; she can be your partner in instilling a sense of order and manners in an otherwise "Lord of the Flies" gathering! The author's German Shepherd loves to come out and lead good chase games, knock a full-of-herself pup down a peg, pick a favorite to play with, and then retire inside: "My work here is done."

If there’s one thing that can serve as the magic elixir of puppyhood, it’s the puppy playdate. Half an hour spent wrestling and chasing with the right canine friends, a couple times a week, will have an enormous payoff in both the short and long term. However, making sure these critical experiences are positive takes some forethought. Don’t blow it, because a bad experience is just as formative as a good one.

YOU’RE NOT OFF-DUTY

Playdate Rule #1 is that the humans are very much on duty at all times. While it’s true that this activity will buy you some time off, that only happens afterward, when your pup crashes on the couch back at home for two hours. During the playdate itself, you’ll need to be switched on.

If your plan is to let the puppies “work it out themselves,” you’re better off skipping the experience, because it could backfire completely. Instead, be ready to help your pup navigate this new situation. Here’s how:

* The first minutes are key! Be ready to focus on your dog the instant you arrive – even though your manners will be telling you to go over and greet the humans. Here’s the perfect scenario: You wave to the humans as they call their dogs away from the gate, so that your pup can enter and get the lay of the land before interacting. Once your pup is happily integrated into play, you can relax and chat. But keep your eyes on your dog!

* Be a keen observer. Ideally, you’ll see some loose, waggy bodies, a play-bow, and reciprocal action where the chaser becomes the chasee, and the top wrestler takes a turn on the bottom. In contrast, stiff bodies and cornered dogs mean it’s time for you to jump in to help. 

* Great doggy play can look a little scary to the uninitiated! If two pups are interacting in a way that concerns you, gently take the pups apart and give them a moment to re-group. Then let go. Do they both happily seek each other out, or does one run for the hills? If they both keep choosing each other, you can feel more confident it’s all good.

* Determine if pups are happily engaging or looking like they want to go home. If a pup seems overwhelmed, step in! If you can’t turn things around in 15 minutes, call it a day and try again later. 

Playdates Are Worth The Effort

A great playdate can be a godsend for humans dealing with an active, mouthy pup who can’t seem to focus. Just like recess at school, allowing a little one to expend energy in an acceptable way helps her to then be able to listen and learn. A vigorous puppy playdate can make a furry “baby alligator” much more pleasant to be around, especially for families with young children at home (since kids are often the ones that get painfully mouthed by pups).

Those short-term gains feel huge at the time, but the truly most important playdate outcomes are the long-term ones. A young pup who has regular positive playdates with a handful of different friends, ideally in a variety of settings, is set up to be a more confident, safer dog forever. His repertoire of doggy communication skills can help him develop into a canine diplomat, easily diffusing tension and avoiding fights. Also, playing with other pups will help him develop the critical “bite inhibition” that keeps him from biting hard later in life. Mouthing is a huge part of doggy play, but pups who bite too hard discover their playmates don’t like it – so they learn to finely calibrate the pressure of their jaws. 

When playdates involve a variety of other pups, locations, and humans, a puppy’s world  expands. The pup learns to anticipate good things in association with a new place or a stranger. If playdates involve a quick car ride, even better – one more positive link to a new experience. Finally, hosting playdates at home teaches a pup that it’s great fun to have people and dogs over. People with pandemic pups have to work extra hard at this, or they’ll find their dogs are stunned when guests finally start coming over.

ACTIVELY INTERVENE

If you are seeing worrisome signals, it’s time to step in and help. Your big tools are motion, redirection, and training: 

* WALK! Lead a fun parade around the perimeter. Clap your hands, call all the pups, and start a group hike. Dogs who were, just moments earlier, heading toward a too-intense interaction can suddenly be very companionable as they move together in the same direction – no longer intensely focused on each other but instead discovering new things to smell together. 

I sometimes spend the entire first half hour of my puppy socialization classes walking half a dozen puppies around the perimeter of the yard. After that, they’ve had a chance to size each other up, they feel more confident in each others’ presence, and they’ve burned off a bit of energy. They’re ready to play.

* REDIRECT! Redirect any undesired play into something better. Introduce new elements – a ball to chase, a squeaky toy, a baby pool – to distract pups and lead them into different behaviors. A quick, happy interruption of a particular twosome can work wonders. 

Mind you, we’re not “correcting” anything. We’re not using scary voices and big “No’s” with pups who are already perhaps a little confused and overwhelmed. Instead, we confidently, cheerily draw them to a new path.

Occasionally ask the pups for a basic exercise, such as sit. This breaks up the play and resets the puppies’ attention.

* ASK FOR SITS! Do some training. Call the pups, and reward them for some quick sits, spins, or touches before sending them back to play. It’s a great idea to do this a handful of times during every playdate, but especially when things seem to be veering away from positive play. 

It can be reassuring to a nervous dog, and a solid reminder for a confident dog, that listening to you is the most reliable route to the best things in life. If the playdate has felt a little chaotic or confusing to a young pup, a predictable little training moment can help settle him.

Note: At first, dogs may not take treats well in a group. Use more humans if necessary, and/or hold your hands far apart as you reward different dogs simultaneously. Very quickly, they learn that each pup will indeed get his or her fair share, and sitting nicely without grabbing is the fastest path to the treat.

* Know when to use toys – and when not to. If play seems a notch too intense, it sometimes helps to incorporate a toy. It provides just a bit of distance and a spot for teeth that’s not painful. However, many dogs need to be taught how to use toys with their friends. Once you help get them going by dangling, tugging, and throwing, it is darling to watch them prance a toy near a friend, luring them into the new game. 

One thing to watch for, though, is that every now and then there’s a young pup whose natural resource-guarding instincts start kicking in around toys. In that case, best to pop the item(s) in question out of sight. 

* Use smart yard setup. A private, fenced yard is the ideal puppy playdate setting. It allows you to control which dogs make the guest list and to minimize health risks. (Much-used public areas are more likely to have yucky things like coccidia or giardia lurking in the grass.) 

There are many ways to make your space more conducive to good play. A big flat empty square spells trouble! If one pup feels there’s nowhere to hide, and no place to catch his breath, he may decide he has no choice but to stand his ground fiercely, thus creating unnecessary stress. 

If you’re lucky enough to have a yard with lots of (sturdy!) bushes and trees, that’s great. But even if not, simply adding some low tables, benches, planters, and an elevated dog bed can help create a great dynamic. Pups need a place to take temporary refuge from the action. It’s okay if your puppy runs to hide under the bench – as long as pretty soon you see her popping her head out, eager to get back in the game.

In addition to providing those key resting spots, the extra elements allow a pup, who otherwise might have been intimidated into a corner, to lead a very fun over-and-under-and-around game of chase. The more familiar the dogs get with the layout of a yard with all sorts of ins and outs, the more fun – and enriching – those chase games become. 

* Be selective about the guest list. When you give your dog time with all kinds of dogs (chasers and wrestlers, the pointy-eared, and the floppy-eared), they become fluent in various kinds of play and communication. That works as an inoculation against a future fear-driven freak-out resulting from an inter-canine misunderstanding. As you try to expand your list of playmates, however, you’ll want to consider size and age. With too big of a discrepancy, you can have unintentional injuries. 

Keeping a leash on a bigger or more experienced pup at first can help give a smaller or younger dog a chance to size up the situation and communicate with the big pup without being overwhelmed. But the sooner leashes can safely be off, the better, because they do alter behavior and sometimes add unhelpful frustration.

If there is a big size discrepancy between two dogs you’d really like to have as pals, indoor play can be an answer. A 70-lb teenager Lab-mix can sometimes play beautifully with a 15-lb, 3-month-old in the family room, where they’ll do some mouthy wrestling. That same duo could be dangerous outside in a big yard if the big pup gets up too much speed and bowls the little one over.

The bottom line is that the simplest start is with pups in a close age/size range. But after that, be prepared to watch closely and use your best judgment. Some big dogs are geniuses at playing gently, while plenty of medium-sized dogs have such rough styles that they truly need to “play up” with bigger dogs to be safe. It can’t be said enough: Keen observation is the key.

But What About Puppy Shots?

Puppy playdates are particularly helpful for the under-4-month set – you know, the pups who still have all of their needle-sharp teeth! Of course, that’s also the age where pups are not yet fully immunized against parvovirus and distemper. (The series of vaccinations for these common puppy diseases typically finishes up around 16 weeks.) 

The 100% safe option is to have playdates only with fully immunized, dog-friendly dogs, in either your yard or the yard of your responsible friend. That other dog will be older and likely bigger than your puppy, but as long as he or she likes puppies, this can still be a wonderful experience. (Follow the tips in the main article.) However, the most fun playdates at that age are with fellow alligators – er, teething puppies. An adult dog won’t necessarily do all the mouthy wrestling that’s so natural to the under-4-months gang. 

Is it safe to allow two not-fully-vaccinated puppies to play together? We covered this topic fully in “Infection vs. Isolation Risks With Your Puppy” (WDJ January 2021). In short, it should be safe to get together with a couple or few very responsible owners who, like you, have carefully managed their puppies’ exposures. Today, we know that failing to properly socialize your intelligently managed puppy in those first few critical months is a bigger risk than that of disease. 

HOW LONG SHOULD A PLAYDATE BE?

If you’re trying to get the biggest bang for your buck, a 20-minute playdate is the king. You only have to actively supervise for 20 minutes, but every single one of those is wonderfully stimulating and exhausting for your dog. If that’s all you can squeeze in, don’t worry! If every dog on the planet had a daily 20-minute playdate, the number of anxious/destructive/aggressive dogs would plummet. 

The play yard should include a few places where puppies can take a break from the action.

My favorite playdates are longer, though. As sessions stretch past the 20-minute mark, especially if playmates are new to each other, you’ll start to see the best play of all. Confidence grows as the over-abundance of energy subsides. As trust builds between dogs, they start to figure out what they like to do together. Sometimes pups who seemed like a poor match at Minute 20 are playing beautifully at Minute 40. 

Conversely, sometimes pups who’ve been doing well suddenly get snappish – and that can mean they’re simply tired, and it’s time to call it a day. The higher the number of pups involved, the more energy is expended by each. The newer the relationships, the more stimulating (and exhausting) the event will be. Here’s the key – I know you can guess it by now: Observe closely, and you’ll know when it’s time to call it quits. 

 

Download The Full April 2021 Issue PDF

  • HOW TO SUPERVISE A GOOD PUPPY PLAYDATE
  • FI TRACKING COLLAR
  • GABAPENTIN
  • VERBAL CUES
  • SEIZE THE DAYCARE
  • WHAT'S THE RIGHT AGE TO GET THE KIDS A DOG
  • PREVENT EAR INFECTIONS - CLEAN YOUR DOG'S EARS
  • PADDLESPORTS SAFETY
To continue reading this article or issue you must be a paid subscriber. Sign in
If you are logged in but cannot access this content, a) your subscription may have expired; b) you may have duplicate accounts (emails) in our system. Please check your account status here or contact customer service.

Subscribe to Whole Dog Journal

With your Whole Dog Journal order you’ll get:

  • Immediate access to this article and 20+ years of archives.
  • Recommendations for the best dog food for your dog.
  • Dry food, homemade diets and recipes, dehydrated and raw options, canned food and more.
  • Brands, formulations and ingredients all searchable in an easy-to-use, searchable database.

Plus, you’ll receive training and care guidance to keep your dog healthy and happy. You’ll feed with less stress…train with greater success…and know you are giving your dog the care he deserves.

Subscribe now and save 72%! Its like getting 8 issues free!

Already Subscribed?

Click Here to Sign In | Forgot your password? | Activate Web Access

Netflix’s Canine Intervention Dog Training Show

41
Source: Netflix. Leverette promotes the use of a plywood box (that he sells through his training business website) for teaching dogs to "station." The very thin cord slip-leads shown on the dog in this publicity still photo are frequently shown on the dogs he's shown handling in the show, too.

A few weeks ago, I started seeing posts on social media from dog trainers I know and admire, warning people about a new show on Netflix called “Canine Intervention.” The show features a dog trainer named Jas Leverette, who says, “I help the dogs that no one else will.”

I watched the first three (of six) episodes that currently appear on Netflix, and my first thought was, “Here we go again.”

The show is scripted and filmed like any reality TV show: Fairly ordinary situations are filmed in a way that dramatizes the problems people are having with their dogs, making the dogs seem incredibly dangerous and destructive, and the trainer is engaged in such a way as to appear near-heroic. He’s shown dispensing pithy pearls of dog-training wisdom, with other brief animal-behavior “facts” appearing in type on screen. Within each hour-long episode, the dog’s problems are improved or resolved.

That’s a good thing, right? We all want people to enjoy their dogs more, and to learn how to train them! So why are so many trainers upset about the show?

There are three major issues: The first is that Leverette is a self-described “balanced trainer.” This has come to mean someone who uses food treats, toys, and praise to reinforce behaviors that they want from a dog – and physical “corrections” to punish unwanted behaviors. Though Leverette also describes his training as “modern,” up-to-date training professionals understand that while force-based training can be effective, there are MANY reasons it’s best avoided:

  • Not everyone can make appropriate corrections with the timing required to make them effective
  • Not everyone wants to use force with their dogs
  • Most significantly, poorly timed or inappropriate corrections are nearly guaranteed to worsen the dog’s behavior and increase his frustration, triggering defensive aggression.

But the usual justifications for the use of force are trotted out. In the first episode, a guy described as a tech-business owner has adopted a pit bull-mix who displays aggression with strangers and visitors to the tech-guy’s home. Leverette says, “If we don’t fix this, this dog is not gonna have a long future…. She won’t have a second chance….” The owner agrees. “This is life or death, pretty much, for her.”

This sort of language triggers educated dog trainers. If an owner is motivated, there are always more ways to train a dog in order to “save” them, without having to resort to pain-inducing tools and methods. And in cases of aggression, it’s well-established that the use of pain, force, and fear in training often worsens aggression.

Don’t get me wrong. Leverette is not shown flagrantly inflicting pain on the dogs; he’s a much more skilled trainer than that. It’s just that his methods call for making the dog do what he wants, when he wants – even if the dog is “flooded” and completely “over threshold,” physiologically aroused past a state of being able to learn. Instead, the dogs simply learn to give up and give in to the force being used.

By the way, it’s never called out or shown explicitly, but when you first see each “problem dog,” they are generally wearing wide collars. When Leverette begins work with them, they are wearing very thin cord-like slip collars. This allows the dogs to be controlled with a lot less overt force; it’s too painful and choking to pull or “act like a fool” (as one owner describes his dog’s problematic behavior) with a narrow cord on your throat. Look carefully and you can see that with these collars, resistance is futile for all but the most defensive dogs; they have to submit. This doesn’t mean they are learning anything, however.

Second, Leverette uses a lot of language that more educated trainers eschew as outdated, meaningless, and immaterial to the science of behavior modification. He issues “commands” instead of talking about “cues” for behavior. Families are described as “packs” and owners are encouraged to be “pack leaders.” Though this sounds kind of cool, exactly how this is accomplished is never well articulated. “Dogs need to trust their pack leader,” Leverette says in the first episode. Um, okay… What, exactly, should an owner do to make their dog trust them? How will we know when a dog trusts us? And how will “trust” make him understand what I want when I cue a behavior? It’s just fuzzy language that sounds good, but can’t actually be described in concrete or useful terms.

In his training, Leverette promotes the use of a plywood platform that he calls a “box.” “In my system, the box is an important training tool to teach new behaviors,” he says in the first episode. “It’s also a first step in establishing the pack leadership that’s necessary,” he says, while the on-screen caption echoes this: “Obedience depends on a dog’s trust and respect for their pack leader.” Again, this is ridiculous. All sorts of animals can be trained to do all sorts of behaviors without much knowledge of their handlers at all. (Want examples? See here, and here, and here. I could do this all day!)

Demystified, the use of Leverett’s box is simply using a platform (a mat can be used just as effectively) as a “station” – a place where the dog is heavily reinforced when he returns to it or remains there. Using a platform, box, mat, or Hula-Hoop on the ground and giving the dog a high rate of high-value rewards will reinforce the behavior of going to and staying in that spot – it has nothing to do with trust or leadership whatsoever. You can train a wild animal or bird to do it, if you want to. (Read this article to see how our Training Editor Pat Miller teaches a dog to “go to your mat.” Or this one, for another perspective.)

My third objection: Anyone who actually trains dogs – including Leverette himself – knows that while a skilled trainer can change a dog’s behavior dramatically in a very short time, it takes much longer for the dog to really learn. The goal is to get them to understand what is desired of their behavior when given specific cues and to motivate them to work for the reinforcements they understand will follow if they performs the desired behavior. In an hour-long TV-show format, even if the passage of time is accurately reflected (as when Leverette takes the dog in the first episode back to his business location for a several-week intensive “board and train” experience), when the dog is returned to the owner much improved, it would appear that the trainer is some sort of miracle worker. Most ethical trainers will tell you: With some instruction, if you worked with your dog for the number of hours each day that I can assure you that the TV dog trainer actually worked with the dog, you’d likely look like a miracle worker, too.

As with that other famous TV dog trainer, it makes for good TV when dogs can be shown displaying dramatic, aggressive-seeming behavior – and then transform in the hands of the trainer into much calmer dogs. But we know that pain (from choke, pinch, or shock collars, including the very thin slip collars that Leverette uses on dogs in the show) can be used to quickly suppress a dog’s dramatic response to whatever stimuli has them worked up – and that pain cannot change how they feel about that stimuli. Without having experienced a change in how they feel about the stimuli that stressed them in the first place, if, back at their owner’s home, there is no painful consequence for responding in a dramatic way, then the behavior will return. Suppressed responses will need to be maintained by continued painful consequences.

In contrast, true behavior modification changes how the dog feels about the stimulus, by initially managing his exposure to it while reinforcing his calm behavior and choice to (eventually) ignore the stimulus. He learns a more desirable (to us) behavior and classical conditioning comes along for the ride, as he (eventually) finds a previously stressful stimulus to be enjoyable as he gets reinforced for his better (more desirable to us) choices.

It’s clear that Leverette is knowledgeable about behavior modification; with the dog who bit several of the owner’s friends (in the first episode), he’s shown doing some desensitization with the dog. But the process isn’t explained in accurate terms; it’s all dumbed down into populist garbage talk (in my opinion); when the captions read at one point, “A dog without a pack leader is a dog who will ignore obedience commands,” I wanted to throw things at the TV! Come ON! But I understand that the way I would put it wouldn’t be simplistic enough for TV: A dog who hasn’t been reinforced with things that are valuable to him for responding to consistent cues with specific behaviors won’t respond to those cues!

I have to say, there were some things about the show that I liked. I am very appreciative that Netflix made a show featuring a person of color (Leverette is African-American); many of his clients, too, are people of color. It appears that he mentors, trains, and hires other POC, and is committed to spiritual practice, his community, and his family. He seems like a genuinely good guy. It also seems like Leverette is much more focused on the practice of dog training – actually teaching cues and specific behaviors to his canine students – than the last popular dog-guy on TV, though he, too, was full of all this pack-leader “dominance” baloney. And YES, all this “dominance” talk is absolute hooey. Read this informative statement about training and “dominance” from the Association of Professional Dog Trainers.

It’s entirely possible that the TV production company that made the show has run roughshod over Leverette, forcing him to reduce his actual training philosophies and techniques into the catchy little sound bites and captions that so offend me and the trainers I know. Whether he believes them or not, though, my fear is that when inexperienced dog owners see and hear dog training reduced to ambiguous statements about “leadership,” all they absorb is that they aren’t being tough enough with their dogs. It’s no different than saying, “You just have to hold your mouth right!”

The problem with “TV trainers” in general is that TV producers want drama – and good dog training is not dramatic! Teaching people to effectively communicate with their dogs, to give the dogs clear direction and quick feedback when they’ve done the “right” thing, may not reduce to a TV-worthy caption or resolve nicely in an hour. But I wish someone in television production would figure out a way to present truly modern dog training in a way that gave viewers basic instruction in easy-to-accomplish, dog-friendly training. It might not garner the kind of ratings that training celebrities’ dogs might earn, but by demystifying the process and breaking it down just like a puppy kindergarten class, it might actually help WAY more dogs and people. 

What Are the Treatment Options For Dogs With Mast Cell Tumors?

3
dogs with mast cell tumors
Photo: johnemac72/Getty Images

Mast cell tumors (MCTs) are the most common form of malignant skin cancer in dogs, accounting for approximately 7% to 21% of all skin tumors. As there is significant variability in the biological presentation from dog to dog and even from tumor to tumor, this form of canine neoplasia is often referred to as “complicated” and “challenging.” 

For more information on the causes of mast cell tumors and how to diagnose them, read our other articles:
Mast Cell Tumors in Dogs: Is It Always Cancer and About Mast Cell Tumors in Dogs.

What are the treatment options for dogs with mast cell tumors?

In the June 2019 issue of Whole Dog Journal, we highlighted a few potential treatment options for dogs with mast cell tumors undergoing research. Two of those treatment options have shown positive progression.

Nanoshell technology and laser ablation for treatment of mast cell tumors

Companion Animal Health continues to explore the use of nanoshell technology and laser ablation for treatment of mast cell tumors. The initial data from one study was presented to the American College of Veterinary Internal Medicine (ACVIM) in 2018 and revealed that 100% of the patients responded to the therapy, with 67% maintaining remission. The treatment combines laser light therapy with gold nanoparticles, which have demonstrated an increased sensitivity to visual and near-infrared light. 

The nanoparticles, administered by intravenous injection, congregate in cancerous tissues. The tumor is then irradiated with laser light, causing the electrons within the nanoparticles to enter into an excited state, which releases energy through heat production. This results in an overheating of the regional tissue, with local cell death and destruction following. This non-surgical, one-time treatment option may allow veterinarians to shrink and stop tumor growth in dogs who have masses in regions where surgery may not possible or entirely successful and has limited to no complications. 

The FDA recently approved STELFONTA

In November 2020, the U.S. Food and Drug Administration’s Center for Veterinary Medicine (CVM) approved QBiotic’s STELFONTA for the pharmaceutical treatment for all grades of canine non-metastatic mast cell tumors. STELFONTA is a novel veterinary anticancer product containing tigilanol tailgate (also known as EBC‐46), a compound extracted from the seeds of Fontaine picrosperma (commonly known as the brushwood tree) found in the rainforest of North Queensland, Australia. Tigilanol tailgate (TT) triggers the action of enzymes called protein kinase C (PKC); when injected directly into the tumor, it causes a fast but highly localized immune response, disrupting the tumor’s blood supply and thereby inducing tumor cell death. This process leads to the destruction of the tumor mass followed by rapid healing of the resulting wound with minimal scarring.

In a randomized controlled clinical two-phased study involving 123 dogs with cytologically diagnosed MCT, researchers found that a single TT treatment resulted in complete response (tumor completely disappeared) in 75% of cases after 4 weeks (Phase 1). Those dogs who had failed to achieve tumor resolution after 4 weeks were treated with a second dose, and approximately half responded (Phase 2), increasing the overall complete response rate to 87%. Of the treated dogs with complete responses available for follow-up, 100% were still disease-free at the treated tumor site after 8 weeks, and 96% remained disease-free after 12 weeks.

STELFONTA has been approved to treat non-metastatic cutaneous mast cell tumors, and non-metastatic subcutaneous mast cell tumors located at or distal to the elbow or the hock in dogs, and tumor size cannot exceed 10cm. A regimen of corticosteroids and antihistamines/H2 blockers must be given to reduce the risks of severe systemic adverse reactions from mast cell degranulation. Administration of the treatment is by a veterinarian, with a single injection directly into the tumor; a second dose may be given if tumor tissue remains four weeks after the first treatment and the surface of the remaining mass is intact. The most common adverse reactions included wound formation (though this is expected due to the destruction of the tumor), injection site reactions such as mild to moderate pain at the time of injection, reddening/swelling/bruising/thickening of the skin, pain and/or lameness in the treated limb, vomiting, diarrhea, and low albumin levels in the blood. These adverse events were typically low grade, resolved quickly, and usually directly associated with TT’s mode of action. Overall, this innovative treatment has been shown to be well-tolerated, allowing dogs to regain quality of life quickly.

STELFONTA will be launched in the United States by global animal health company Virbac, with availability to veterinary oncologists in the next few months; availability to primary care veterinarians will follow. 

Are Seresto Flea and Tick Collars Harmful to Dogs?

40
using flea and tick prevention collars
Otto and Woody wearing their Seresto collars.

On March 2, USA Today published an article about the Seresto collar, originally developed and brought to the market by Bayer Animal Health in 2012. The article highlighted the fact that the United States Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) has received nearly 1,700 reports of animal deaths associated with use of the collar. Worried pet owners have been flooding their veterinarians’ offices with calls about whether to remove their pets’ Seresto collars.

Dog owners should be aware that every effective pesticide will cause adverse effects in some animals; that’s the nature of products that are meant to kill parasites. But there are a number of things you can do to reduce the potential for harm to your dog:

  • Don’t use any flea- and/or tick-killing or –repelling pesticides unless your dog needs that protection. If you are lucky enough to have never observed fleas in your home or on your dog, you may have no need for flea-control products; don’t buy them unless you need them! In some parts of the country, fleas and/or ticks are a fairly constant threat to pets and pesticides are needed to control and manage infestations. (I put the collars on my dogs when I am planning to hike with them in areas where ticks are numerous, or when my dogs get exposed to a dog with fleas. The rest of the year, they go without!)
  • Use an integrated pest management (IPM) plan to control persistent flea infestations, so you can use pesticides less frequently in the future. This link provides a good source of information on how to do that.
  • If the pets in your home repeatedly get infested with fleas, try to identify the source of reinfestations. Indoor/outdoor cats are often the culprits, as they may rest in places frequented by flea-infested mice, rats, squirrels, or chipmunks, picking up fleas there and inadvertently bringing them back home to reproduce.
  • If you have used a particular flea/tick-control product and your dog had an adverse reaction to that product, note the information in any place that will help remind you to avoid that product or its active ingredients in the future. My granddog Cole had an adverse reaction to Frontline once, vomiting once or twice on the day after the spot-on was applied and exhibiting diarrhea for a day or two after that. About a year later, my son, misremembering which product had caused the adverse response, inadvertently used Frontline on Cole again (after getting fleas from a visit to a friend’s infested home), with the same response. Aghast, he called me to confirm that Frontline was the culprit. Now we both remember, and avoid that product for Cole.
  • It’s easy to respond if your dog, like Cole, has an acute adverse response to a particular pesticide. (In the case of an adverse response to a spot-on pesticide, you can give your dog a series of baths to help eliminate all of the pesticide that was not yet absorbed into his skin. If your dog has an adverse response after you have put a Seresto collar on him, remove the collar and bathe him well.) But if your dog has chronic health problems, you may need to more deliberately consider whether any of the topical or oral pesticides you have administered to him may be connected to his health problems. We wouldn’t recommend giving dogs with cancer or those who suffer from seizures any pesticides whatsoever. Instead, we’d use whatever IPM tactics were at our disposal to control fleas if necessary, and would avoid tick habitats at all costs.
  • If you have used a particular pesticide product on your dog with great success (fleas disappeared, walks in areas known to be infested with ticks did not result in any or just a few tick-attachments) and without any adverse events, stick to that pesticide if you need one in the future. Don’t introduce an entirely new pesticide that may pose potential side effects for your dog without a solid reason to do so.
seresto flea and tick collar
The packaging for a Seresto flea and tick collar.

That last tip is why I’m not going to stop using Seresto and start using some new product. Neither of my dogs has had an adverse response of any kind to the collars. If either one had, I would avoid that product, but I’m not going to expose them to a new pesticide; I have evidence that Seresto is not causing them harm, but I’d be starting from scratch with a new pesticide.

It’s easy to forget what life was like before we had effective, relatively safe, long-lasting pesticides to kill fleas and ticks on our dogs. Many dogs suffered much more than their modern counterparts. Tick-borne diseases kill many dogs annually, and make many more suffer from chronic effects; without the measure of control offered by pesticides, these numbers would be much higher. Also, prior to the modern age of pesticides, it was very common to see dogs whose front teeth were worn to the gums from just chewing their own bodies in an effort to relieve the horrible itching caused by flea bites. While we would like people to use pesticides more sparingly and carefully, we wouldn’t like to go back to having none of these substances at our disposal.

Adventures in dog fostering, chapter #7642

23
Wow, is that door filthy! Anyway, this is a (not very dramatic) reconstruction of the scene greeting me when I went to see how the foster pup was faring by herself in my office.

I have a new little foster dog staying with me. The manager of my shelter called me last week and wanted to know if I would give her my opinion; she had been returned to the shelter twice and the manager was puzzled, because she seemed great!

Long story short, I think she is great. I think the two failed placements were not the right fit for her, that’s all. And I like her so much, I have a home in mind for her. But the family I’m thinking of will have to leave her home alone for chunks of time, and because I was working around the clock all last week, I haven’t yet had a chance to see how she does when left alone for more than 20 minutes at a time.

I shipped the April issue to the printer on Monday morning and decided that the little dog’s “home alone” tests would start that day. I left the dog in my detached little office building by herself, with a frozen Kong toy that was stuffed with canned food and her dry food scattered around on the floor of the office. I went into the house to eat breakfast, take a shower, and answer some emails. From the house, I would be able to hear if she started barking or causing a fuss.

What it looked like when the crate fell, PERFECTLY blocking the door from opening. (There are *very strong* rigid bars in there!) Note that the door is as open as it could be with the fallen crate in that position. I had to aim my “hook” for the strap that snaps the collapsed crate together for portability.

About an hour later, I came back out to the office. As I approached the door I could see her through the glass door, sitting calmly – good job, little dog! I went to open the door and – hey, why won’t the door open? It seemed to be jammed, somehow!

Folded-up soft-sided crate, leaning against file cabinet on right.

I cupped my hands to the glass and looked more closely through the window. Oh crap! When I left the office, there had been a folding, soft crate leaned up against a file cabinet, across from the door, and it had fallen toward the door – been pushed over, more likely, by a dog pushing a food-stuffed Kong around the office. Unfortunately, now it was lying flat on the ground between the door and the file cabinet, where it fit perfect to very effectively block the door from opening. Ay yi yi! What a fix we were in! There are three little windows in my office, and all of them are locked. Breaking a window  was the only alternative to solving this puzzle to open the door.

Red and green intact tomato “cages,” and pieces of a third cage that I cut up in order to McGyver a tool that would slip through the 1/4-inch slit that I could open the door, and fish for the strap on the side of the fallen crate.The first loop I cut off the cage was too short; I needed the biggest hoop.

Fortunately, the door could open about a quarter of an inch. It took me about a half-hour to find something on my property that I could use to slip through the tiny slit between the door and the frame, hook onto some part of the folding crate, and pull the crate up. It had to be very slender, at least a couple feet long, flexible enough to bend around the door, and strong enough to lift the large crate. A wire coat hanger was not strong enough, nothing plastic was skinny or flexible enough. I kept walking around the properly, looking for something.

Ultimately, I used bolt cutters to cut up a round wire tomato cage, the bottom loop of which met all the requirements: strong, slender, long, and flexible. Then I sat in front of the door, fishing with my wire, trying to catch a strap on the crate. The little dog sat on the flattened crate on the other side of the door, watching me and the movement of the wire intently.

Finally I hooked a strap! I had to bang on the door – “Back! Get back!” – to get the dog to get off the crate, so I could lift the end of the crate enough to push open the door and free the little dog. Hurray! I spent only an hour trying to free her from her hour-long isolation test.

I’ll try again tomorrow, but you can bet that I’ll dog-proof the office a little more thoroughly this time.

Can Dogs Eat Cinnamon?

6
Can Dogs Eat Cinnamon?
Here’s what pet parents should know before giving their dogs cinnamon. Photo: chendongshan/Getty Images

It’s fun to indulge in sugar and spice and everything nice, like cinnamon. Just a whiff of cinnamon can bring back memories of snow day baking sessions with mom. And now that you’re a pet parent, you may want to give your pup a sprinkle of it, whether it’s in a homemade dog biscuit or by itself. So, can dogs eat cinnamon? Here’s what pet parents should know.

Related: How to Make Your Own Top-Quality Dog Treats

 Is cinnamon good for dogs?

There aren’t any peer-reviewed studies on the benefits of giving your dog cinnamon, but some people swear by it. 

“Anecdotally, people will say it has anti-inflammatory properties and helps regulate blood sugar,” says Dr. Antje Joslin of Dogtopia, a brand of dog daycare centers that also offers boarding, spa, grooming and training services at more than 150 locations throughout the U.S.

If your dog has underlying gastrointestinal (GI) sensitivities, experimenting with her diet is probably not recommended. But most dogs have relatively iron stomachs. Start with a tiny amount, and see how she responds. Dr. Joslin says it’s OK to put some in a homemade dog treat or let your pup lick it off your finger while you’re baking. 

But when it comes to cinnamon and dogs, there’s such a thing as too much of a good thing.

“It should be in small quantities…anything more than a teaspoon can be an irritant to the stomach,” Dr. Joslin warns, adding that too much cinnamon can also raise blood sugar.

When to not let your dog eat cinnamon

Cinnamon can cause GI irritation. If your dog is prone to it, it may be best to find another way to treat them. Also, steer clear of cinnamon in oil form.

“It can irritate the skin,” Dr. Joslin says. 

And though the smell is comforting to us, try not to let your dog inhale it if, for example, it spilled on the floor.

“It can be an irritant to the nose,” Dr. Joslin says.

If your dog had cinnamon, look out for any signs of discomfort.

“Vomiting, soft stool or frequent stool [are red flags],” Dr. Joslin says. “If they inhale it after getting into the spice cabinet, look for coughing, sneezing or choking.”

Check in with your vet and consider treating your dog with something else if cinnamon isn’t sitting well with them. But if it is, a little sprinkle in moderation is perfectly fine.

Read Next: Can dogs eat avocado?

Stray Dogs Living On The Streets

20
© Ccat82 | Dreamstime.com Female "street dogs" and "reservation dogs" often live the hardest lives, as they end up becoming pregnant every time they come into season. Feeding a litter or two of puppies each year, when they are hungry themselves, takes a lot out of them.

I’ve had several opportunities to observe unowned “street dogs” in different habitats, from Indian reservations to beaches to foreign countries. Years ago I went on a school-organized trip with my son’s middle-school class to Italy; watching the famed stray dogs who live in the ruins of Pompeii was the highlight of my trip!

Almost everywhere there is a persistently high population of street dogs, “reservation dogs,” or “sato dogs,” there are organizations devoted to helping them, ranging from capture/vaccination/spay/neuter programs to adoption programs. And this is great, because the threats to the lives of stray dogs are many:

  • Parvovirus and distemper kills many unvaccinated street dogs.
  • Many suffer terribly from fleas and/or mange.
  • Long-term suffering from ticks and tick-borne disease, and from giardia and/or coccidia may also shorten the dogs’ lives.
  • If they haven’t been captured and spayed/neutered at some point, they will unavoidably add to the population of homeless dogs. Females may suffer during breeding season, unable to escape being bred by numerous males, and from birthing/feeding more puppies than her body can maintain. Males may suffer from fights brought on by the proximity of a female in season, and from wandering farther afield than they normally would, in search of the scent of a female in season.
  • Being hit by cars is far too common.
  • In rural areas, many stray dogs meet their ends as they hunt for food and end up getting shot by farmers or ranchers.

On the other hand, I sometimes consider that some of these free-roaming dogs may be happier than some owned dogs who have regular health care, food, and warmth. There are a great many owned dogs who suffer from the helplessness of being locked up in a tiny cage or crate, dependent on a human’s schedule to eliminate when they need to, or for meeting other basic needs. Many dogs are subjected to lives of relative emotional and mental poverty, spending huge chunks of each day in social isolation and deprivation.

Dogs are often dumped in or near the ruins of the city of Pompeii in Italy and reproduce there. Many of them figure out how to beg for food from the throngs of tourists that visit the site. They approach buses and cars and allow themselves to be petted, nudging purses and backpacks that contain anything edible.

“Street dogs” can satisfy their curiosity about anything that catches their eyes or ears, investigating at will. They can exercise when they want, as much as they want. They usually develop relationships with other dogs, staying in a loose “family” group with other dogs they trust.

But it’s undeniable that their lives tend to be short, much shorter than owned dogs. There are just so many hazards.

In recent years, a great many groups have begun to import street dogs from other countries into the U.S., in hopes of finding adopters here. While this undoubtedly saves lives, I can’t tell you how many reports I’ve heard from trainers who have been called upon to help the families who have adopted former street dogs from Puerto Rico or Russia, or brought home by soft-hearted soldiers in the Middle East. Sometimes these dogs have a really rough time adapting to the typical lifestyle of an owned dog in America: being walked on leash everywhere, having no freedom to roam, perhaps being an only dog, and spending a lot of time alone.

There is no way to know what’s best for any individual. But I must say, when a stray adolescent dog on an Indian reservation recently approached me, all of the above went through my mind. If I had been closer to home or had any room in my car, I would have been seriously tempted to “rescue” him – but what if he already had a loving family, and was merely given the freedom to wander?

Download The Full March 2021 Issue PDF

  • SMALL IRRITANTS CAN LEAD TO BIG DISTRESS
  • ON RESTRICTION
  • ROOM WITH A VIEW
  • DECOMPRESSION
  • TAKING CARE OF “TRIPAWDS”
To continue reading this article or issue you must be a paid subscriber. Sign in
If you are logged in but cannot access this content, a) your subscription may have expired; b) you may have duplicate accounts (emails) in our system. Please check your account status here or contact customer service.

Subscribe to Whole Dog Journal

With your Whole Dog Journal order you’ll get:

  • Immediate access to this article and 20+ years of archives.
  • Recommendations for the best dog food for your dog.
  • Dry food, homemade diets and recipes, dehydrated and raw options, canned food and more.
  • Brands, formulations and ingredients all searchable in an easy-to-use, searchable database.

Plus, you’ll receive training and care guidance to keep your dog healthy and happy. You’ll feed with less stress…train with greater success…and know you are giving your dog the care he deserves.

Subscribe now and save 72%! Its like getting 8 issues free!

Already Subscribed?

Click Here to Sign In | Forgot your password? | Activate Web Access

Letters and Corrections: March 2021

3

 Collar Safety

I read with interest your article about collars, tags, and the risks associated with both. (“Don’t Wait! Prevent Collar Accidents,” December 2020.)
I have three dogs, including a Border Collie who likes to lie over one of the floor vents, especially in the summer when cool air is being pumped out. Twice, he’s gotten his metal ID and rabies tags caught in the grate and ended up in somewhat of a panic dragging the grate around the kitchen. 

After reading your article, l decided on a fix. I took a couple 1/4-inch-wide strips of duct tape and taped the tags flush to the collar so they could no longer get snagged. If for some reason the tags have to be read, the tape can easily be removed. I think my solution will work just fine without removing potentially valuable information should he get in trouble one way or another regarding the dog’s identity or shot records. 

Chuck Meyer, longtime subscriber  – Beaver Dam, WI

 

Food Review Questions

I love WDJ but I have questions. In your dry food list (“Approved Dry Dog Foods 2021,” February 2021) only one is available in my area. I need help! I have three small dogs, two Miniature Pinschers and one Chihuahua. 

Edith Bunch – via email

We’re sorry, but we can’t make specific recommendations for diets for individual dogs. 

Some of the companies on our list sell directly to consumers. Alternately, if you have a good independent pet supply store in your area, we’d suggest asking the manager if they can order one of the products you are interested in; most stores are happy to do that. You may be bringing a product to their attention that they are not aware of. 

Also, most of the foods on our lists are available through online retailers. If a particular product appeals to you, go to the company’s website; they usually have a link showing where their products are sold. Or check the big online retailers: Chewy, Amazon, and Petco.

Again, we’re sorry, but we can’t possibly make recommendations for specific dogs. Nor would we be able to know what’s in your budget.

I noticed an incorrect statement on your 2021 approved dry foods list. Regarding Annamaet’s foods, you state “Annamaet’s formulas are made with low-ash chicken, salmon, or lamb and healthy whole grains (no legumes).” Their grain-free formulas most certainly do contain legumes. I know because I feed Annamaet’s food and have spoken at length with this wonderful company. They produce excellent, well-researched foods, but their grain-free formulas definitely do contain legumes.

Deborah Grodecka – via email

Argh! You’re right. None of Annamaet’s seven grain-containing foods contain legumes. But its grain-free foods do indeed contain legumes. We regret the error.

We just reviewed the ingredients of all of Annamaet’s dry dog foods, again! Here are the legumes used in its grain-free foods: Lean Formula (field peas, lentils); Aqualuk (field peas, chickpeas), Salcha (lentils, field peas, chickpeas); Manitok (lentils, field peas, chickpeas, pea protein); Sustain (lentils, green peas, pea protein isolate); Ohana (lentils); Re-Juvenate (green peas, lentils, pea protein isolate). 

If you remove a food from your approved list,. it would be helpful if you made a note as to why.

Dean Mair – via email

Thanks for the suggestion; we will absolutely add that to our coverage. We’ll explain the discrepancies between the 2020 list and the 2021 list here: 

We noted in the introduction to the 2021 dry dog foods list that, for the first time, we had stopped including companies that make and sell only one product or are sold in only one state or part of the country. We did not name the companies that were eliminated from our list by this change; they are Bench & Field, Pet Chef Express, and Petguard. The foods made by these companies meet our selection criteria , but we want to keep our focus on companies with the resources and full-time commitment to best serve consumers on a national scale.

Castor & Pollux has discontinued its Ultramix line of foods. 

Weruva is no longer making a dry dog food.

Dr. Tim’s Pet Food was previously on our lists, though we had warned in past articles that we are not fans of including animal blood as a protein source in dog foods, and that some of Dr. Tim’s foods include this ingredient. This year, we learned that all of Dr. Tim’s foods include dried porcine plasma, so we removed the company from the 2021 list.

 

Access to Past Articles

I read your comments about quick fixes versus longer term efforts.(“Sound Solutions,” WDJ February 2021) and was struck by a comment you made regarding calendula tincture for skin issues and needing to work on determining underlying causes. I was so excited, as I have a couple of rescue Pekes that have some significant skin issues, which have managed to defy all our efforts so far and mystify my vets.

I was disappointed to check through the entire magazine and not discover the article, so assume it was something printed at some time in the past.

I was hoping you could send me the article you referred to. If there’s a cost, please let me know. I’m hoping to use the information along with the advice about dog foods to try and improve life for Bonnie and Clyde.

Jackie Wagoner – Tennessee Pekingese Rescue

Hi Jackie, thanks for your note. The calendula reference was meant to be an example of the type of information we include in our articles. This is in contrast to articles frequently seen elsewhere that lack specifics on how to put the information in the articles to use! 

Here are two of the articles we have published about calendula and its many uses: “How to Use Calendula on Dogs,” April 2008, and “The Many Benefits of Calendula for Your Dog,” February 2007.

I also would like to make you aware that current subscribers are able to access all of our back issues and articles on the WDJ website, whole-dog-journal.com. Just go to our site and type the topic you want information about into the search box in the upper right corner. If we’ve covered that topic, a list of articles will appear. 

You do need to register for online access, if you haven’t already. At the very top center of the website, there is a box that says “Activate My Web Access.” Click on that, and fill in the boxes to help us find your subscription status. You will then be instructed to choose a user name and password. Once that’s done, as long as your subscription is current, you will have access to everything we’ve ever published.

Good luck with the Pekes! I hope that a calendula rinse proves to be helpful!

 

Thanks for the Information

My first issue of Whole Dog Journal was Volume 2, No. 2, February 1999. I have been an avid reader since then, reading every issue nearly cover to cover. It is with a good deal of sadness that I anticipate receiving January 2021 issue, my last. 

After 22 years, I didn’t want to leave without thanking you and telling you why I’m letting my subscription lapse. First, why: In November 2018 and July 2019, I said goodbye to my two beloved Rhodesian Ridgebacks, Tamu and Pendo. My heart is still broken. Because of recent changes in my life, I don’t anticipate ever having another dog. 

Tamu came to us as a puppy. We gave him that name – Swahili for “sweet” – in honor of Nunda, my first Rhodesian Ridgeback, who had died in March 2008, just three months before Tamu was whelped. Tamu was a show dog until he was about 7, when he and I decided it was time for us to retire from the ring. Pendo was about 4 years old when we rescued him. His name is Swahili for “love,” with which he was overflowing. He and Tamu were close in age, and they became best friends. I miss them both immensely.

Now for the “thank you.” Over the years, I have learned so much from WDJ, and that knowledge greatly enhanced my understanding of my dogs and my relationships with them. When we got Nunda as a puppy, I was a novice in the world of dogs, and I had no clue how to train him, care for him, or bond with him. It was 1996, and I had never heard of positive, force-free training, so I didn’t understand why I was having so much trouble mastering the punishment-based training techniques being taught in the obedience classes to which we went. I also had a gut feeling that I shouldn’t have to be so cruel to him to get him to do what I wanted him to do. It just felt so wrong.

Then I discovered WDJ. You and your wonderful contributors taught me why I felt so uneasy about the training methods I had been taught. It took some time to repair the damage I had done to my relationship with Nunda in those first couple of years without WDJ, but by the time Tau and then Pendo came to us, I had the knowledge and resources I needed to get off on the right foot from the beginning. Whether it was training, nutrition, products, health, or behavior, I always knew where to go to find answers and solutions.

Thanks you for all you’ve done for me and my dogs in the past 22 years. Keep up the good work. If I ever do welcome another dog into my life, you can be sure I’ll be back. 

With gratitude,

Deborah blankenberg – Lodi, California 

Deborah, I can’t tell you how much your letter means to us. I’ve shared it with our long-time WDJ contributors, and it’s made each of us cry! It has always been our goal to encourage dog owners and help them find effective, dog-friendly answers to the problems they may be having. We are proud to hear that we helped you and your dogs, immensely grateful to you for your long-time support, and sincerely hope that circumstances again find you with a dog to love and to love you. 

Nancy Kerns, Editor  

Latest Blog

A Thing for Gear

It is wonderfully gratifying to have the exact piece of dog gear needed that fits a dog and does the job.