The pancreas is an organ that sits near your dog’s stomach. It produces digestive enzymes and the hormones that regulate blood sugar.
Any time you see “-itis” at the tail end of a word, it means inflammation of whatever it comes after. Dermatitis is inflammation of the skin. Enteritis is inflammation of the intestines. Hepatitis is inflammation of the liver. Pancreatitis is inflammation of the pancreas.
Pancreatitis is a fairly common ailment in dogs. Why one dog, eating exactly what another dog eats, develops pancreatitis while the other doesn’t is unknown. An unplanned, super-high-fat meal is usually the culprit, as when a dog gets in the garbage and eats discarded bacon grease, or gets on the counter and eats a pound of butter, or someone left a cake on the coffee table with a Labrador Retriever around.
Risk Factors for Pancreatitis in Dogs
Predisposing factors include obesity, diabetes, Cushing’s syndrome (overactive adrenal glands), and some medications. Schnauzers sometimes suffer from a condition called hyperlipidemia, which predisposes them to pancreatitis.
Signs of Pancreatitis in Dogs
Signs of pancreatitis include vomiting, loss of appetite, painful abdomen (which can look like a hunched up appearance, or the dog may posture like the yoga pose downward dog), lethargy, and fever.
Acute pancreatitis can be severe and life-threatening. Many of these dogs must be hospitalized for intravenous fluids and supportive care. Chronic pancreatitis tends to cause waxing, waning symptoms repeatedly over time. Chronic pancreatitis requires careful, long-term management.
If your dog is showing signs of pancreatitis, your veterinarian will likely take an abdominal x-ray. This is to rule out other potential causes of the signs your dog is showing. Baseline blood work is done for the same reason. Finally, a blood test called specific canine pancreatic lipase (SPEC cPL) will likely be run. This test is much more sensitive and specific for pancreatitis than the older tests veterinarians used to have to rely on (lipase, amylase). Many veterinary hospitals can run this test in-house. With results immediately available, your dog can get the treatment he needs right away.
For chronic cases, your veterinarian may recommend an abdominal ultrasound, as this can provide useful information regarding severity, which helps in determining prognosis.
Treatment for Pancreatitis in Dogs
Treatment for acute pancreatitis generally includes fluid therapy [either hospitalized intravenously, or administered subcutaneously (under the skin) as an outpatient], anti-nausea medications for vomiting [Cerenia (maropitant)], and pain medication (usually opioids like buprenorphine and tramadol; gabapentin – a neuropathic pain reliever – can be helpful as well).
Treatment for chronic pancreatitis may start the same way as for acute, but then long-term maintenance needs to be implemented. This means feeding a low-fat, highly digestible diet (like Hill’s I/D Low Fat or Royal Canin Gastrointestinal Low Fat), and having pain and anti-nausea medications on hand at home to manage flare-ups.
Pancreatitis in dogs can be unpredictable, sometimes even unavoidable. Knowing what to watch for, and seeking veterinary attention right away can make all the difference for your dog.
Some people call their dogs "fat and happy," but the pain of health problems caused by excess weight will surely interfere with happiness later in life.
Canine obesity has reached epidemic proportions, and it’s clear that one contributing factor has to do with the close relationship we have with our dogs.
Dogs play an important role in the lives of many people. They help reduce their humans’ anxiety and stress, and even motivate their owners to exercise. Of course, they are adorable and always willing to listen. It’s been widely observed that many millennials choose to have pets instead of children – and it’s long been a trend that couples get a dog for the first shared family member before making the big parenting commitment. And many empty-nesters fill the void with a dog.
Unfortunately, people might demonstrate their affection by overfeeding their dogs. In the past two decades, there has been a dramatic increase in rates of obesity among the pet population; more than 50% of dogs in the U.S. are either overweight or obese.
The issues with obesity include a tendency to develop metabolic diseases such as diabetes, increasing insult to aging joints resulting in osteoarthritis, and other health issues related to inflammation. Sadly, this decreases the dogs’ life expectancy.
As a project for her undergraduate summer internship at Kansas State University, Alyssa Perry, from Prairie View (Texas) A&M University, decided to examine the dog/owner relationship – specifically, the effect of dogs’ behavior on their humans, and whether it might have something to do with overfeeding.
How This Study Came About
Alyssa Perry (with her Australian Shepherd, Roscoe) enjoyed her K-State summer internship from hundreds of miles away.
Last summer, in the heart of the COVID-19 pandemic, a few faculty members at Kansas State University (KSU) were presented with a new educational and research challenge as part of the annual Summer Research Multicultural Fellows Professional Development Series. The task: to engage student interns in research – without bringing them to campus.
With the help of K-State faculty members, graduate students, research associates, and subscribers of Whole Dog Journal, we were able to launch the first step in a program that has been resting on the shelf for several years – a silver lining to the pandemic.
Our intern was Alyssa Perry, a Prairie View A&M undergrad. Perry is studying agriculture with an animal-science concentration; after she graduates from Texas A&M, she plans to attend veterinary school and study animal behavior. Perry’s internship project was this: a survey of engaged dog owners that would help us begin to understand how much impact the dog has on food and treat provision as it relates to weight management.
With involvement from WDJ editor Nancy Kerns, participation from some of WDJ’s subscribers, and a whopping dose of midnight oil, Perry and her academic support team put together a preliminary report in a quick six weeks.
The KSU team’s involvement didn’t stop there, though; after a year of wrestling with the data, we wanted to share the outcome of this project with WDJ readers.
STARTING THE SCIENCE
While Perry wasn’t able to attend her internship in person due to the COVID-19 restrictions, in a way, she was fortunate: A talented team of academics was unusually available to help her conceive, build, execute, and largely complete a research study. As Perry’s internship advisor (and KSU professor), I recruited and led the team: fellow K-State faculty Dr. Kadri Koppel, graduate students Isabella Alvarenga, Krystina Lema, and Lonnie Hobbs, and research associate Dr. Siim Koppel.
To address the issue, we created a survey. Through an acquaintanceship with editor Nancy Kerns, I reached out to WDJ’s publisher, asking for access to a sizeable email list of dedicated dog owners to survey. Belvoir Media Group emailed the survey to nearly 20,000 subscribers and 2,342 responded.
To get at the most meaningful data, we disqualified some of the responses, omitting, for example, responses from people who indicated that they were not involved in their dogs’ feeding, or who had more than four dogs (because we wanted to focus on owners with a more typical number of dogs).
That left 1,456 qualified responses. These owners were actively involved in feeding their pet, had fewer than four dogs, and their “chosen” dog (if they had more than one dog, they were asked to choose just one to keep in mind when answering the questions) was between the ages of 1 and 10 years old.
Participants answered 35 questions. Some had to do with the dogs, including their body-condition scores and their behavior before and during meals. Some had to do with the owners, including their background and feeding practices. Finally, some had to do with the interactions and attitudes of the dogs and owners during feeding.
RESULTS OF SURVEY
The majority of the participants (78.6%) were women over 50 years of age. The vast majority of participants described themselves as very attached to their dogs and strongly agreed that being with their dogs brought them comfort, as well as a lot of happiness and pleasure.
Nearly 40% of dogs were mixed breeds; 25% of the dogs were from 10 breeds. The most common: Golden Retriever, Labrador, German Shepherd, Standard Poodle, Australian Shepherd. Owners reported that 33% of their dogs had an ideal body score, 47% were overweight, and 20% were obese.
The majority of owners (62%) indicated that their decisions regarding daily food allowance were based on perceptions of their dogs’ body weight; 30% followed the food’s feeding guidelines or their veterinarians’ recommendation. Most (71%) metered their dogs’ daily food by use of a measuring cup, and 12% weighed the dogs’ food on a scale. At the other extreme, 16% did not measure food at all and 1% allowed food access continuously.
The vast majority (70%) of owners provided treats one to three times per day, but less than a third of dogs received treats “on special occasions.” The primary reasons for giving treats was for rewards or training, with “pampering” or showing/receiving love and affection secondary motives. One-third of owners reported giving table scraps to their dogs.
The respondents reported that when waiting for the meal, their dogs commonly exhibited behaviors that included gazing or staring, sitting and waiting with excitement, or tail-wagging. The least common behavior was whining or barking. There was a significant correlation between gazing or staring at the owner while waiting for food and the frequency of treats given (see Figure 1). Those suggestive glances are powerful!
These results suggest that most owners are diligent about controlling food amounts for their dog – but they may not be aware that their pets are overweight (recent studies put the number of obese dogs at more than 50% of the population). And the data suggest that dogs may have significant influence in overriding their owners’ self-discipline. The dogs’ behaviors (eye gaze, anticipation, excitement) encourage the owner to provide more treats or table scraps. These added calories accumulate over time.
Veterinary nutritionists recommend that owners limit treats to no more than 10% of the dog’s daily calories and reduce food portions to account for any treats or table scraps provided. Given the power of persuasion from our pets, this may not be an easy task.
MORE WORK TO DO
Our next steps include submitting the full research manuscript for peer review and publication in a scientific journal. Then, we plan to start on another research series, including an intervention study to better understand how we might solve the obesity puzzle and where economics might play a part in the dog owner’s decision-making.
Greg Aldrich, PhD, is a research professor and the Pet Food Program Coordinator at Kansas State University. He writes a column for Petfood Industry, has authored several textbook chapters regarding pet foods and nutrition, and is a frequent speaker at industry and scientific forums.
If you are struggling with getting the toothbrush in the dog's mouth, just allow her to lick an enzymatic toothpaste off the brush. While it's the mechanical action of the brush that is most beneficial for reducing biofilm and plaque, the antimicrobial action of the enzymes will be better than doing nothing at all. And if you don't force the matter, she might come to accept increasingly longer brushing sessions.
Photo Credit: Anastasiya Tsiasemnikava/ Dreamstime.com
The phrase “toothpaste for dogs” sounds like the punchline to a joke – the epitome of a ridiculous product that’s not necessary but is being marketed by an avaricious industry looking to profit by foisting useless gear on unsuspecting dog owners. I’m sure that some comedian somewhere could get a good five minutes of laughs out of the topic.
The truth is, though, that toothpastes that are formulated for pets are helpful. They improve the mechanical effect of the toothbrush, their abrasive ingredients improve the plaque-removing effect of brushing, and their enzymatic ingredients help reduce the population of bacteria present in a dog’s mouth.
Why is this so important? To prevent a cascade of ill effects for your dog. Bacterial overgrowth, also referred to as “biofilm,” causes infection and inflammation when it accumulates below the gum line.Biofilm becomes plaque; plaque promotes the formation of tartar, and both substances give the bacteria more surfaces to cling to and opportunity to proliferate under the gums. And bacteria can not only contribute to bad breath, but also contribute to periodontal disease, which has been linked to severe deleterious effects throughout the body, including the liver, kidney, heart, and lungs. Studies have established a link between canine dental disease and diabetes, “distant neoplasia” (gastrointestinal, kidney, pancreatic, and hematological cancers), chronic inflammation, and early mortality.
To recap: It’s critically important to help your dog keep his teeth clean!
WHAT TO LOOK FOR IN A DOG TOOTHPASTE
We’ll start by mentioning that there is an organization – the Veterinary Oral Health Council (VOHC) – that examines any applicable research studies that might prove the effectiveness of various veterinary dental products as they relate to one of two possible claims: “Helps control plaque” and “Helps control tartar.” Interestingly enough, only one pet toothpaste on the market carries one of those claims: Petsmile Professional Pet Toothpaste, which earned the VOHC seal for “Helps control plaque.” That was enough to make this product our favorite, despite the fact that it’s way more expensive than its competitors.
The one thing that all pet toothpaste manufacturers seem to agree on is that these products should contain an abrasive ingredient. If that sounds alarming, relax: Abrasive ingredients make up at least 50% of human toothpastes!
Commonly used abrasive ingredients include calcium carbonate, sodium bicarbonate (also known as baking soda), sodium chloride (salt), various forms of silica, and dicalcium phosphate.
Pet toothpaste should have a flavor that’s (at a minimum) not aversive to dogs and (at best) pleasant. It’s generally accepted that most dogs don’t particularly enjoy minty flavors, so you’ll see most pet toothpastes flavored with either an artificial sweetener, an artificial peanut butter, or meat “flavor.” We tasted every toothpaste we included in this review and not one, in our opinion, tasted like either meat or peanut butter. Some were vaguely sweet.
That said, dogs have far fewer taste buds than we do – about 1,700 compared to about 9,000 in humans – so, as long as the toothpaste doesn’t taste bad, perhaps the taste isn’t that important.
It’s well established that the mechanical action of brushing is the most effective home care that owners can provide to their dogs. But the use of products that contain antimicrobial agents can increase the efficacy of brushing. Antimicrobial agents reduce the bacterial population in the dog’s mouth and reduce the formation of the biofilm which, left undisturbed, would begin to form plaque and, eventually, tartar.
If your dog resists the brushing process, and you’re able to get only a little antibacterial toothpaste into his mouth, don’t despair. Several studies have indicated that the simple introduction of antimicrobial toothpastes into a dog’s mouth – even without the mechanical brushing action – is more beneficial to the dog than no action being taken at all.
WHAT DOG TOOTHPASTES SHOULD NOT CONTAIN
Here’s a great way to choke, smother, or poison your dog – by using a toothpaste with a foaming agent. Don’t do this! Photo Credit: Oleksii Stasiuk/Dreamstime.com
We hope that all dog owners are aware that they shouldn’t use toothpaste that is formulated for humans when they brush their dogs’ teeth. There are a number of ingredients in human toothpaste that are problematic – and even downright toxic – for dogs. Some of the ingredients are no healthier for humans to swallow than dogs, but you can tell humans not to swallow it, and they (usually) won’t. (Children’s toothpastes contain less fluoride than adult toothpaste because they are less able to follow this instruction than adults.)
Almost all human toothpastes contain fluoride, an effective anti-cavity agent, but it’s not in any pet toothpastes, as dogs are particularly sensitive to this agent; it’s considered a major toxin for them.
Xylitol is a sweetener that’s found in many human toothpastes, but is highly toxic to dogs and is never included in pet toothpaste.
Humans seem to love the foaming action of our toothpastes; it seems to help distribute the cleansing, refreshing agents all around our mouths. But given that we don’t want our dogs to swallow the toothpaste – and they have no way of knowing that, or of rinsing their mouths without swallowing – foaming agents should not be included in a pet toothpaste.
Sodium lauryl sulfate is the most commonly used foaming agent in human toothpastes. It also offers detergent properties (binds with impurities and helps them be rinsed away) and mild antibacterial properties. However, it can cause gastric upset in dogs – and its foaming action is more trouble than its worth in a dog’s mouth. We found it included in just one of the 10 toothpastes we reviewed (Nylabone Tartar Control Pet Toothpaste; see next page).
Need Motivation to Break Out the Brush?
I doubt that anyone enjoys brushing their dogs’ teeth; with the most cooperative of dogs, it’s a minor inconvenience, and at worst, a major hassle. But if you need a little motivation to convince you to put this chore on your to-do list, consider these dental-health facts:
✔ People who brush their dogs’ teeth regularly are more likely to notice problems such as tooth fractures or chipped teeth, loose teeth, gum inflammation, or growths in the mouth. Early detection of these problems is essential to successful treatment (especially of oral tumors).
✔ Reducing the amount of bacterial plaque at and below the gum line of the teeth is critical for preventing the development of gingival inflammation and periodontal disease. Regular brushing has been shown in many studies to be the most effective means of reducing the amount of plaque on dogs’ teeth; it’s considered the gold standard for maintaining dental health. In fact, one (human) study found that professional cleanings were of little value without regular home care (brushing). Multiple studies have shown that bacterial plaque begins to attach to the tooth surfaces again within 24 hours of cleaning.
CHOOSE WHAT WORKS FOR YOU AND YOUR DOG
We’re not picking any favorites other than the Petsmile product (with its VOHC seal). Use of any of the products will be better than none. We’d recommend trying various products and seeing which ones your dog accepts best.
That said, if your dog already has a significant tartar accumulation on his teeth, we’d definitely suggest a product with a tartar control agent (see the list of ingredients and what they do on page 21). Otherwise, just buy a pet toothpaste, introduce it to your dog as soon as possible, use it regularly, and monitor the appearance of his teeth and gums as time goes by. We think you’ll be amazed at the improvement you will see with regular use of any product.
DOG TOOTHPASTES
Product Name
Maker Information
Price/Size
Ingredients
Comments
Arm & Hammer Completecare Enzymatic Toothpaste
www.fetch4pets.com
(855) 430-8100
Note that Arm & Hammer name is licensed by Fetch 4 Pets; product not actually made by Arm & Hammer. Flavors: Beef, banana mint, chicken, peanut butter, vanilla ginger.
Freshbarks Enzymatic Toothpaste
freshbarks.com
Phone # not made available
$25, 7 oz (3.5 oz per tube)
Glycerine, aloe, pectin, neem oil, grapefruit seed extract, baking soda (sodium bicarbonate), glucose oxidase (enzymes), natural flavors
Sold only in a pack of two tubes with a unique two-headed toothbrush. One flavor. We’re not crazy about companies that can be reached only via email and that seem to take pains to hide their business location (in this case, the Netherlands).
Nylabone Tartar Control Pet Toothpaste
nylabone.com
(855) 273-7527
Original and peanut butter flavors. We tried the original; we can’t tell you exactly what it tastes like. It’s vaguely sweet and sort of toffee-flavored. “Tartar control” in name is supported by more anti-tartar agents in the ingredients than some of the others.
Available in peanut butter and poultry flavors. We tried the poultry flavor, which, likely due to an actual poultry-originated ingredient and also its unappealing (to humans) brown color, we didn’t enjoy as much as our test dog did.
Petsmile Professional Pet Toothpaste
petsmileusa.com
(800) 784-7645
This is the only product on our list that carries the seal of the Veterinary Oral Health Council for plaque inhibition – that’s actually a big deal (and justifies the high price); it’s been proven to work. Available in “Rotisserie Chicken” and “London Broil” flavors. We tried the latter; it was inoffensive but didn’t taste like steak. The dogs didn’t object.
Vet’s Best Enzymatic Toothpaste
vetsbest.com
(800) 690-9908
$5.50, 3.5 oz
Glycerin, aloe, pectin, neem oil, grapefruit seed extract, sodium bicarbonate (baking soda), glucose oxidase (enzymes), and natural flavors
Vet’s Best offers a money-back guarantee if you are not satisfied with the product. This is the most “natural” product included here. Comes in one unspecified flavor; tastes like aloe but also slightly soapy. No objections from the dogs.
Vet’s Preferred offers a money-back guarantee if you are not satisfied with the product. Available in one flavor: peanut butter. Our test dogs are good sports but we really didn’t like the taste of this.
Virbac described this a “dual-enzyme system toothpaste” and it does, in fact, contain multiple antimicrobials. Comes in beef, malt, poultry, seafood, and vanilla mint flavors. We tried the poultry; the dogs liked it.
This product was developed by a dentist (rather than a veterinarian), and it takes a novel approach with the “targeted oral probiotics,” herbal extracts, and essential oils in its formula. One flavor; tastes just like you would imagine a product that contains peppermint and thyme would taste.
INGREDIENTS IN PET TOOTHPASTES AND WHAT THEY DO
The following are ingredients that are commonly found in pet toothpastes. They are listed alongside their mode of action – or purported mode of action – the reason they are presumably included. Not all ingredients used by various manufacturers have proven to perform the tasks for which they were included in this application.
Ingredient
Action
Aloe
Antibacterial, anti-inflammatory
Ascorbic acid phosphate
Biofilm inhibitor
Calcium carbonate
Abrasive
Calcium peroxide
Whitener
Carbomer
Gelling agent
Cellulose gum
Thickener, stabilizer
Cetylpyridinium chloride
Antiseptic
Dextrose
Sweetener
Dicalcium phosphate
Abrasive, tartar control agent
EDTA (edathamil)
Reduces biofilm
Glucose oxidase
Antibacterial, helps break down plaque
Glycerin (also known as glycerine and glycerol)
Humectant (retains moisture, keeps product from drying out), improves gel texture
Grapefruit seed extract
Antibacterial
Grape seed extract
Antibacterial
Hydrated silica
Abrasive
Lactoperoxidase
Antibacterial
Neem oil
Antibacterial
Pectin
Thickener, gelling agent
Polysorbate 20
Surfactant (reduces a liquid’s surface tension, thereby increasing its spreading and wetting properties); emulsifier (stabilizer, keeps product from separating)
Poultry digest
Flavoring agent
Potassium hydroxide
Neutralizes the acidic pH imbalance caused by other chemicals used in toothpaste
Potassium sorbate
Preservative
Potassium thiocyanate
Reduces gingival inflammation and supragingival plaque
Saccharomyces enzymes
Antibacterial
Sodium chloride (salt)
Abrasive
Sodium benzoate
Preservative
Sodium bicarbonate (baking soda)
Abrasive, mild disinfectant, fungicide (may change a dog’s urinary pH)
Sodium carboxymethyl cellulose
Stabilizer
Sodium copper chlorophyllin
Antimicrobial
Sodium lauryl sulfate
Detergent
Sodium saccharin
Sweetener
Sorbitol
Sweetener, thickener, humectant
Tetrasodium pyrophosphate
Tartar control agent
Titanium dioxide
White pigment, thickener
Xanthan gum
Thickener, stabilizer (keeps ingredients from separating)
This dog's extreme itching, crusting, and hair loss is body-wide. This is the first clue that sarcastic mange will be the diagnosis.
Photo Credit: T.Tapp/Veterinary Healing Arts.
Difficult to diagnose, yet easy to treat, sarcoptic mange is a miserably itchy, uncomfortable disease
Canine scabies, also known as sarcoptic mange, is a dreadfully itchy skin disease that affects an estimated 2% to 4% of the canine population. Courtesy of the Sarcoptes scabiei var canis mite, the condition is highly contagious and incredibly uncomfortable. Tiffany Tapp DVM, DACVD, of East Greenwich, Rhode Island, describes untreated scabies as “a painful, relentless, progressive condition.”
Though perhaps not as common today because of advancements in flea and tick preventives (some of which control for the mange mite), canine scabies should be on the radar for those of us who use a flea preventive that doesn’t control for mange mites, or those of us who are forgetful about administering preventive regularly to their dogs.
HOW SARCOPTIC MANGE IN DOGS SPREADS
The mite has a host preference for canids, including dogs, with fox and coyote serving as significant reservoirs. Practicing in New England, Dr. Tapp suspects that some of her patients contract the disease from wildlife.
If an infected fox sniffs around garbage bins or decking, for example, you may now have mites in your environment. Or your dog sticks his head in a hole that turns out to be a coyote or fox den, voilà, your dog can contract scabies. Then, when she scratches herself, mites drop off into her environment. And if she’s spending time in a place frequented by other dogs, i.e., veterinary clinics, groomers, dog parks, daycare, etc., your dog potentially becomes a Super Spreader, passing on her mites to other dogs she encounters.
Mite survivability off-host is typically only a few days, though they are infective in the environment for about 36 hours.
SCRATCH THAT ITCH – WHERE ARE MITES FOUND ON A DOG?
Once on board, mites tunnel into the dog’s skin, producing an intense itch. The mites are typically found on areas where there is less hair, such as ear flaps/margins of the ears, lateral elbows, hocks, and the ventrum (belly). Lesions, crusting, hair loss, and a thick crust along the pinnae (ear flap) soon develop.
The itch caused by the bite of the scabies mite differs in intensity from even seriously flea-allergic dogs. Dr. Tapp says, “In the exam room, for example, it’s non-stop scratching – a 10 on the pruritus (itch) scale.”
WHAT DOES SCABIES LOOK LIKE ON A DOG?
Dr. Tapp says she can prove that it’s mange via skin scraping only about once in every 10 times. “The mites are hard to find on a skin scrape, because they are notorious tunnelers; plus, it doesn’t take many to make a dog itchy, so they’re easy to miss. A negative skin scraping doesn’t necessarily mean anything.”
A vet might suggest a polymerase chain reaction (PCR) test, in which a sample is analyzed to see if it contains genetic material from Sarcoptes scabiei– but, says Dr. Tapp, these tests are not always accurate.
That said, mange is always on her differential for an itchy dog, particularly if the dog is super itchy and doesn’t have a history of severe pruritus. Additional clues that lead her to consider a diagnosis of sarcoptic mange include:
Pinnal-pedal scratch reflex. The pinnal-pedal scratch reflex is assessed by vigorously rubbing the tip of one of the dog’s earflaps against the base of her ear for five seconds. The test is considered positive if the dog’s hind leg makes scratching motions. Dr. Tapp says, “A positive reaction should give the vet pause to consider scabies on the differential, but not all dogs with a positive reflex have scabies.”
Itchy human. Mites can cause temporary itching and irritation on our arms, neck, and waistline. Although this mite cannot reproduce on people and dies on its own fairly quickly, if the animal remains untreated, the humans in the household are fair game.
History. A variety of treatments that failed to address the itching, including bathing, or an initial good response to steroid therapy followed by recurrent pruritus are a couple of flags. Usually by the time a dog gets to Dr. Tapp and she reads the dog’s history, she already has a good idea of whether the dog should be isolated because it may have the highly contagious disease.
Pattern. Where is the itching, crusting and hair loss?
• Ears, elbows, hocks, ventrum: Mange suspected.
• Rump, tail, back of legs: Flea allergy likely.
• Paws, front of elbow, face and groin (places that touch the ground where the dog can absorb pollens): Atopic dermatitis.
• “Ears & rears”: Food allergy, although this is a great one for mimicking flea allergy.
Demodectic Mange Is Different
Demodectic mange is caused by Demodex canis, a different parasitic mite than the one that causes sarcoptic mange or “scabies.” Demodectic mange, sometimes just called “demodex,” is the most common form of mange in dogs – but not because it’s infectious and transmissible like the scabies mite. As it turns out, most dogs (and humans!) have some species of Demodex mites living on their skin all the time! But only some dogs develop hair loss and itching from an overgrowth of these mites, due to a depressed immune system, which fails to take appropriate action to control the mites. Poor nutrition, stress, exposure to the elements, and a lack of clean places to live all contribute to the immune-system depression that can lead to an overgrowth of Demodex. Fortunately, today’s isoxaline-class medications readily treat these infections, quickly stopping the itching and allowing the dog’s hair to regrow.
SARCOPTIC MANGE TREATMENT FOR DOGS
Since a negative scraping is insufficient to rule out scabies, a “may be mange” medication trial is often implemented. The dog is treated for sarcoptic mange and observed for resolution of symptoms over the course of a few weeks. Treatment is simple and typically successful; treating with a trial course of medication offers a quick rule in/rule out.
A variety of treatment options are available, including the use of some routine flea/tick preventives. Used regularly, some – though not all – preventives keep mange from ever taking hold on a dog, which is a likely reason why there are not more cases.
For a long time, off-label, multiple doses of ivermectin, administered orally or via injection, was the primary go-to strategy for treating sarcoptic mange. For ivermectin-sensitive (MDR1 positive) dogs, this is not an option.
More recently, isoxazolines have been game changers in the treatment of mange. They work quickly and efficiently; in most cases, a single treatment, at the usual dose, is all that’s required to clear sarcoptic mange mites. Oral medications Simparica (sarolaner), NexGard (afoxolaner), Credelio (lotilaner) and Bravecto (fluralaner) are used off-label in the U.S. for this indication, but are approved in Europe for the treatment of sarcoptic mange,
Some topicals including Revolution (selamectin) and Advantage Multi (imidacloprid and moxidectin) require more than one dose but will also kill scabies.
Before these newer drugs came along, the standard treatment was comprised of labor-intensive weekly bathing with an odoriferous lime sulfur dip for at least six weeks. It was often successful – but my, oh my, it stinks so badly! That said, those looking for an alternative to an oral or topical medication could employ this treatment (especially if you don’t have a particularly sensitive nose!).
If the condition has gone untreated, many dogs will display secondary bacterial and yeast infections that will require additional systemic and/or topical treatments.
EASY TO RULE OUT
Sarcoptic mange should be on the veterinarian’s radar for any dog with intense itchiness.
Dr. Tapp says, “It’s so horrible for the dog. With the intensity of the pruritus, the dog doesn’t eat or sleep; it’s true misery. If the diagnosis is missed, there is progressive discomfort to the dog and significant financial expense if the wrong conditions are treated, such as allergy testing, food trials, and multiple rounds of drugs, not to mention secondary infections that will also require treatment.”
Canine scabies, itself, can become expensive if left untreated. Easy to treat, there’s no reason for it to ever get to that point.
It's unlikely that any of our readers have dogs this flea-infested at home; a dog with such a heavy flea burden is likely to be quite ill with anemia and tapeworms. But veterinarians, shelter workers, and rescue volunteers do see dogs who are this heavily infested - mostly in situations where there has been no flea-control efforts for some time. Unchecked, fleas populations grow quickly and exponentially.
Photo Credit: Dimarik16/ Dreamstime.com
Nobody thinks fleas are good for dogs. But do you know why they are bad? And that they are bad for you and your family, too?
Fleas have been around for centuries. They carry organisms that cause disease in both animals and humans. They were the vector for the bubonic plague that killed millions of people back in the Middle Ages. Flea-borne diseases you’re more likely to see in this day and age include parasitic larvae that infect the skin and eyes; rickettsial bacteria that cause fever and systemic illness; and Bartonella, the bacteria that causes cat scratch fever.
Fleas also carry tapeworms (Dipylidium caninum). If your dog swallows a flea while chewing at his flea bites, he can end up with tapeworms in his intestines. Owners usually become aware that their dog has tapeworms when they see rice-like segments in the hair around the dog’s anus or in the dog’s feces. These segments are actually just tiny pieces of very large, long worms. Yuck.
Fleas suck a lot of blood. They can consume enough to cause a life-threatening anemia, especially in young puppies of any breed and in toy-breed adult dogs. This preventable situation requires intensive veterinary intervention, including blood transfusion, if the dog is to survive.
As if that weren’t enough, fleas cause considerable discomfort for your dog. Flea saliva contains histamine-like compounds and other irritating substances that result in inflammation and itchiness around the bites. If your dog happens to be allergic to fleas, this inflammation and itch is amplified exponentially. One flea bite can make a flea-allergic dog’s entire body break out!
BREAK THE FLEA LIFE CYCLE
In order to effectively prevent fleas or treat a current flea problem, it is important to understand the life cycle and habits of the flea.
The adult fleas you see on your dog are not the biggest issue. They make up less than 5% of the problem. The more important 95% lives in your home environment in the form of adult fleas and pre-adult flea stages (eggs, larvae, and pupae). Each adult flea only lives a few weeks.
So, in and of itself, one flea may not seem like a big deal. The problem is, a female flea lays approximately 50 eggs a day – that’s 50 eggs a day, for 20 days, or about 1,000 eggs laid before that one flea dies.
It takes at least three weeks for each egg to go through three molts and become an adult. Let’s say half are female. So now we have 500 fleas, laying 50 eggs a day, for 20 days, which equals 500,000 flea eggs laid in your home, within six weeks of one flea entering the premises. The female half of these 500,000 fleas will lay 50 eggs a day, and before you know it, you are up to 12.5 million flea eggs in your home.
ENVIRONMENTAL SOLUTIONS FOR FLEAS
So, if you have an active flea problem, it is important to include this environmental population in your treatment plan. An integrated flea-control program includes killing adult fleas, both on the dog and in the environment, as well as eliminating and preventing pre-adult flea stages from the environment.
For eliminating existing fleas and pre-adult fleas from your home, heavy vacuuming daily is recommended. Be sure to discard your vacuum bag or the bagless debris full of fleas and pre-adult fleas; if you have one of those bagless vacuums, make sure you dump it into a bag you can seal after vacuuming. Be aware that the heaviest burden of eggs and larvae will be wherever your pet jumps down, like from a bed or chair, as lots of flea eggs and larvae fall off the dog when he impacts the floor.
Also, it’s important to know that flea larvae do not like light. This means they migrate to darker areas, like underneath furniture, so be sure to focus on these areas. Don’t forget about your car if your dog has been in it, and wash all bedding (yours and your dog’s) in hot water regularly.
If you are not adverse to using an insecticide on your carpets and upholstered furniture, I recommend using an area spray (not a bomb) that contains an adulticide (ingredient that kills adult fleas) and an Insect Growth Regulator (IGR).
IGRs interfere with the progressive development of the pre-adult fleas, either stopping eggs from hatching (one example is the drug lufenuron), or preventing larvae from becoming pupae (pyriproxifen, s-methoprene), effectively preventing them from becoming biting, reproducing adults. Using an area spray instead of a bomb means you can direct the spray where it’s needed, including under furniture, as previously discussed.
My favorite area spray is Knockout spray by Virbac. Used as directed, this product is considered safe. You and your pets should not contact sprayed surfaces until they are completely dry, however. For severe flea infestations, hiring an exterminator can be extremely helpful.
If your yard is sunny and dry, there is usually no need to treat this area. Keep the grass cut short. If your yard is heavily shaded and moist, you might consider using an area treatment to knock down any existing flea population outdoors.
If you prefer not to use insecticidal sprays in your home or yard, don’t lose hope. Keeping all resident pets on effective flea preventative products, (discussed in the next section), will slowly whittle away at your existing flea population. It will take six to eight months to accomplish this, and your dog may continue to experience annoyance with fleas during this time, but if you keep the protection on your dog up to date, the existing flea population will eventually be extinguished.
Flea Treatment Information Resource
Oral medications that are fed to your dog to repel and kill fleas are regulated by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration. Topical pesticides that are used on your dog to repel and/or kill fleas are regulated by the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency. For an exhaustive list of FDA- and EPA-approved flea, tick, heartworm and other parasite preventatives for dogs, you can visit the Companion Animal Parasite Council (CAPC)’s website, capcvet.org, and click on the Quick Product Reference Guide.
FOR YOUR DOG
You’ll never get rid of fleas if you don’t treat your pets. A good integrated flea-control program requires that all pets on the premises be treated with a safe and effective flea adulticide. This will kill any existing adults and kill any new ones that come along, before they reproduce, one hopes. I think it’s a good idea to use a product that also has an IGR, as this acts as a failsafe for any eggs that happen to be laid before the adult flea is killed.
There are many good products available at this time, so talk to your veterinarian about which would be best for you. You can choose from safe and effective oral products (e.g., Nexgard, Bravecto, Simparica, Simparica Trio, Trifexis), topical products (e.g., Advantage products, K9 Advantix products, Bravecto, Frontline products, Revolution products), or a long-acting collar (Seresto).
It is important to note that all these products vary a bit in how they work and what they prevent in addition to fleas. Some contain IGRs, some don’t. Some prevent ticks, some don’t. Some require the flea to bite to die, some repel before the bite; this difference is of importance for the flea-allergic dog, who reacts to the bite. Some flea preventatives also prevent heartworms, which means it’s important for your dog to have a negative heartworm test before using these products. When in doubt, it’s always best to check with your veterinarian.
Once any current flea infestation has been eliminated, if you keep all your pets on appropriate flea preventatives all year round, treating the environment should never again be necessary. Keeping all pets on preventatives all year round is important, as fleas and pre-adult fleas (especially the very hardy pupae), can easily overwinter in your warm, comfortable home.
DON’T WAIT IF YOU SEE A FLEA: GET TO WORK
I hope that if you have a flea problem, this information will help you get through it. And I hope that if you don’t have a flea problem, this information will help you avoid one. A familiar, old cliché fits too well here not to mention it. When it comes to fleas, an ounce of prevention is definitely worth a pound of cure.
While all allergies cause dogs to itch, flea allergy often focuses a dog's chewing and scratching in the areas where fleas most frequently bite: flanks, base of tail, and inner thighs.
Photo Credit: Cunaplus/ Dreamstime.com
There are few things that make dogs (and their veterinarians) tear their hair out like skin allergies. Skin conditions are the top cause for veterinary visits in the United States, and most of those skin problems are symptoms of allergies. Signs of allergies in dogs include itching – called pruritus – redness, hair loss, and damaged and infected skin. Vomiting, diarrhea, and weight loss are other but less common effects and are generally associated with food allergies in dogs.
WHAT CAUSES ALLERGIES IN DOGS
In the simplest terms, allergy is the result of an immune system gone awry. When it’s functioning as it should, immune system agents patrol the body, checking the identification (as it were) of every molecule in the body. The immune-system patrollers allow the body’s own molecules and harmless foreign substances to go about their business, but when they are operating properly, they detect, recognize, and attack potentially harmful agents such as viruses and pathogenic bacteria.
When a dog develops an allergy, the immune system becomes hypersensitive and malfunctions. It may mistake benign agents (such as pollen or nutritious food) for harmful ones and sound the alarm, calling in all the body’s defenses in a misguided, one-sided battle that ultimately harms the body’s tissues or disrupts the body’s usual tasks. Or the immune system may fail to recognize normal agents of the body itself and start a biochemical war against those agents (an “autoimmune” response).
Allergies can be very frustrating to diagnose, manage, and treat. Just as in humans, allergies are usually a lifelong condition without a cure. Management is focused on identifying the causative allergen(s) (often through extensive testing), eliminating the allergen(s) from the dog’s environment when possible – or, if not possible, reducing the dog’s exposure to the allergen(s) as much as possible, and treating secondary effects of allergies, such as infections and discomfort.
In theory, this is very simple; in reality, it can be difficult and frustrating. Any breakthrough in controlling the dog’s exposure to the allergens (assuming they even can be determined!) can lead to itching and infections. Whenever I am counseling an owner on managing a dog’s allergies, I start with the caveat that we will never cure the allergy. We will only keep it under control.
Choose Wisely; Be An Informed Owner
I wish that more dog owners were aware of their preferred breeds’ genetic predisposition to allergy and planned accordingly when buying or adopting.
Breeds to consider as particularly prone to allergies include West Highland White Terriers, Golden Retrievers, Boxers, Shar-Peis, Lhasa Apsos, Shih-Tzus, Boston Terriers, Staffordshire Terriers, and Bulldogs. There are many others as well, so thoroughly research any breed that you are interested in owning. If possible, ask about the parents and other offspring that have resulted from the same matings; if the parents or siblings have severe allergies, chances are better than even that the puppies will develop them, too.
SIGNS OF ALLERGIES IN DOGS
Many dogs with allergies lick and chew their feet, causing raw swollen irritated skin and secondary infections. Photo Credit: Raquelsfranca/ Dreamstime.com
So how do you know if your dog has allergies? Allergies generally manifest as dermatitis – meaning skin inflammation. In particular, skin infections are called pyoderma, meaning “pus skin.” A one-time skin infection that responds to treatment is not a reason to suspect allergies. That can happen to any dog! It is when infections recur again and again that makes allergies the prime suspect as the underlying cause.
Allergies and pyoderma are a vicious cycle. When a dog is exposed to whatever substance(s) to which he is allergic (whether it be fleas, food, or an environmental allergen like dust mites), his first and most intense symptom will be itchy skin. (In contrast, the most common symptoms of allergy in humans are sneezing and an itchy, runny nose and eyes.) As a result, the allergic dog will scratch and chew at his skin, damaging the skin’s protective barrier.
Once the skin is broken, opportunistic bacteria, particularly Staphylococcus (which commonly lives harmlessly on the skin in some amount), enter the damaged area and colonize it. This stimulates the immune system to release white blood cells to fight off the invaders. The white blood cells release inflammatory substances to kill the bacteria – but they also irritate the surrounding tissue and cause more pruritus. The itching continues, the dog continues to scratch, and more bacteria enter the broken skin. The cycle continues.
Intense itching and discomfort, redness, and skin infections that recur despite appropriate treatment are the hallmarks of allergies. In the case of severe allergies, it may be hard to distract a dog from the maddening itch.
Recurrent ear infections can also be associated with allergies. Or your allergic dog may scratch behind his ears, along his belly, or chew on his feet. The skin is often moist and red and may have a yeast-like odor. Epidermal collarettes – small, flaky circles – may be seen; these are most often noted on the belly, where there is less hair.
DIAGNOSING ALLERGIES IN DOGS
When you take your dog into the veterinarian for itching and red skin, an initial skin work-up will be done. This includes three important steps: a skin scrape, tape cytology, and skin impression. This will determine if there is an easily treatable cause for the discomfort and if pyoderma is present. Mite infections can lead to these symptoms and are easy to treat.
For a skin smear, a glass slide is pressed against the infected area, dried, stained, and examined under a microscope.
A skin tape cytology is similar. A piece of acetate tape is pressed to a place on the dog’s skin in an infected area or where a pustule is seen; then the tape is removed and examined microscopically. The veterinarian is looking for the presence of mites, yeast, or bacteria to determine the cause and treatment for the infection.
If mites are not suspected to be the cause and none are found on the scrape, the veterinarian will treat the infection based on the skin cytology and impression.
If bacteria are found, a topical shampoo with antibacterial effects may be used. Chlorhexidine shampoos are inexpensive and readily available in most veterinary clinics. Alternatively, if the infection is widespread and/or severe, an oral antibiotic like a cephalosporin may be more appropriate.
If yeast is also present, a topical shampoo or mousse treatment with an antifungal agent will be needed. In some cases, oral antifungals such as itraconazole are also used.
A one-time skin infection does not indicate allergies, but when infections recur – especially in susceptible breeds – allergies are the most likely diagnosis. At that point, it becomes necessary to try to identify what substances the dog is allergic to.
We’ll discuss food and substances that are inhaled or that come into contact with the skin (such as dust mites, pollen, grass, mold, and other common environmental substances) that commonly cause canine allergies in upcoming issues. Below, we’ll discuss the most common canine allergy: Flea allergy.
DON’T BE IN “FLEANIAL” – SIGNS YOUR DOG MIGHT HAVE FLEAS
Flea combs have fine teeth that are very close together. If you comb through the coat of a dog who has fleas, you may or may not capture a flea between the fine teeth; flea actually spend only a small amount of time on the dog, and hop off shortly after feeding. But if you see dark specks like those seen in this photo of a few comb, you are looking at flea “dirt” – the feces of the flea, which contains dried blood.
As vexing as they may be, fleas are the simplest cause of canine allergy to diagnose and treat. The offending agent is the flea’s saliva: When they bite into a dog, they inject a small amount of saliva into the dog’s skin, and the dog’s immune system responds to this material.
Flea allergy typically develops when a dog is between the ages of 2 and 5 years, though dogs who are as young as 1 year or are senior dogs can also develop flea allergies.
Some dogs are so intensely allergic to flea saliva that one flea bite can lead to widespread, severe itching and self-trauma, setting up the pyoderma cycle. (These dogs in particular need to be kept on flea prevention year round in most parts of the United States. Fleas can be a year long problem in many parts of the United States that stay warm or have warm days during the winter.)
If you are in doubt, drop those specks in a saucer of water. If the water turns a rusty red, it’s flea poop – and you need to address the flea infestation STAT.
Generally, diagnosing flea allergy is fairly simple. It presents with symptoms in the “flea triangle”– the base of the tail, rear legs, and inner thighs. There is hair loss in those areas, where fleas tend to congregate. Sometimes, live fleas can be seen crawling around in those areas, but not always.
Your veterinarian may use a fine-toothed comb (called a flea comb) to detect and expose living fleas. Whether or not fleas are found with a comb, she will also conduct a skin scrape, tape, and cytology as outlined above to determine what infectious agents may be present. The pruritus caused by fleas leads to the vicious cycle of skin trauma and pyoderma, so that must be treated in conjunction with eliminating fleas.
It’s important to remember that just because you don’t see fleas doesn’t mean that they are not present. Fleas remain on a dog for only a few minutes to an hour while they are feeding. Once they feed, they return to their environment. By the time you begin seeing live fleas crawling on your dog, the infestation is severe. It is common for owners to be certain that their dog cannot have fleas, just for us to use a comb and find several live ones. (We veterinarians call this “fleanial.”)
In addition to recommending products that kill the fleas, your vet may also prescribe a medication to help with the itching. Older medications like oral steroids are very effective but do come with significant side effects such as increased drinking, urinating, panting, restlessness, and the risk of inducing diabetes with long-term use. Some dogs also experience temporary behavioral changes. Steroids are very inexpensive, and generics are available.
Newer medications such as Apoquel (oral tablet) and Cytopoint (injectable) specifically target the factors that cause itching, are safer, and are extremely effective without the side effects of steroids. They are also more costly, as no generics are yet available.
But the pyoderma caused by self-trauma must also be treated. This is called flea allergy dermatitis (FAD). Treatment involves either topical shampoos or mousses and/or oral medications, depending on what the veterinarian finds on microscopic examination.
FLEAS ARE THE EASIEST CANINE ALLERGY TO TREAT
If your dog has flea allergies, consider yourself (somewhat) lucky! Of the three main causes of allergies in dogs, flea allergy is the easiest to treat and manage. With careful attention to preventives, maintaining a flea-free house and yard through regular treatments, dogs with FAD can live a happy and itch-free existence.
Woody and Samson recently. The big dog is an exuberant goofball, but he's always careful not to step on his little buddy.
My friend Leonora owns my dog Woody’s best friend, tiny Samson. Woody and Samson are the exact same age, and both are “foster fails” – Leonora and I were raising foster litters for our local shelter at exactly the same time, and we both kept one pup from the litters we were raising. As it happened, I kept the largest of the nine Lab/Pit-mix pups I was fostering, and Leonora kept the smallest of the six Chihuahua-mix pups she fostered. Our two dogs grew up playing together and we even took them to puppy kindergarten and “first grade” classes together. Five and a half years later, they are still best buds, even with the 65-pound difference between them.
But there is one little wrinkle in their friendship: their very different relationships with food.
Woody at 8 weeks, when I decided I had to keep him.
Pardon me for saying it so bluntly, Woody, but my dog is a bottomless pit. He will eat anything at any time anywhere. He’s never too anxious to eat and never too full to turn down food. I usually soak his food or feed him in a snuffle mat or slow-feeding bowl, because otherwise he eats way too fast. My husband and I often amuse ourselves by offering him strange things to eat – asparagus, cherries, plums, lettuce, ice cubes, you name it – and I don’t think that we’ve ever found anything that Woody will turn down.
In contrast, Samson is a fussy little grazer. Leonora gives him food in the morning, and if she’s home (whether on a weekend or during the work-from-home COVID period), he will pick up a kibble every once in a while, but he doesn’t really eat more than a couple at a time. And when she works at her usual work site, he doesn’t eat all day! When she gets home from work, he will greet her at the door, and then run to his food dish, and eat a couple of kibbles. Over the next few hours of the evening, he will eat a few more. Even when she leaves him with a tiny Kong toy filled with peanut butter and treats, he doesn’t touch it until she gets home. Then he will rush to enjoy it.
I interpret this as low-level anxiety with her absence, given that many dogs who display symptoms of separation anxiety often don’t eat when they are left alone.
Leonora often gives Samson carrots to nibble and chew, and the first thing he does is stash them under his blankets in one of his several beds around Leonora’s house. Same if she gives him a Milk Bone-type cookie. He eats them when he’s ready, often when Leonora is relaxing in the evening while reading or watching TV.
Samson at about 8 weeks, when Leonora decided she had to keep him!
Leonora also often dog-sits Woody for me; when I travel anywhere, that’s where Woody stays. He’s as comfortable at her house as he is at mine – but he’s learned all of his little buddy’s food-caching tricks. So much so that now, when we go over to Leonora’s house, Woody will first excitedly greet Leonora, and then rush around raiding all of little Samson’s stashes. Then, he’ll empty Samson’s tiny food dish (Samson’s total daily diet is but an appetizer for Woody).
But don’t feel sorry for Samson! He will usually choose one cache to guard – the best thing he’s hiding – and go after the much-larger dog with the ferocity of a weasel if Woody tries to get it. Though Leonora and I both are ready to intervene if needed, so far, Woody hasn’t ever seemed to mind being attacked by his little friend. It’s almost as if he doesn’t even notice! His tail keeps wagging and he just lifts his big head out of Samson’s reach; he knows that Samson will get distracted and he’ll go for the food when Samson isn’t paying attention.
Woody and Samson snuggling when they were about year old.
Samson doesn’t seem to hold it against Woody; they are still friends and enjoy each other. When it’s cold, Samson curls up into Woody’s tummy, or climbs on top of Woody’s big sleeping body to try to stay warm. Woody “self-handicaps” when playing with his little friend, by laying down and keeping his movements gentle. When they play bitey-face, Samson is usually the one who gets too rough, going “full weasel” and biting Woody all over his face while snarling hysterically. To defend himself, Woody often just opens his huge jaws and lifts his head out of the way – when Samson gets carried away, he somehow often ends up with his whole head in Woody’s mouth! Yet the only way that Woody has ever accidentally hurt his buddy is by squashing him with a big paw, which he uses only in a last-ditch effort to control Samson’s occasional bout of outsized ferocity.
Do your dogs have different attitudes about food? Do you have an indiscriminate chow hound, a selective foodie, or a dog who always has something cached for a rainy day?
Please don't ever lift dogs or puppies by the armpits like this! It's uncomfortable for must - and painful for many dogs, especially those with neck or back pain. (It's also a great way to get bitten in the face.)
Photo Credit: Lesia Sementsova/Dreamstime.com
Imagine living in a world where you are surrounded and controlled by creatures who are 10, 20, even 30 times your size. Now imagine that from time to time, without warning, one of those creatures suddenly reaches down, snatches you off your feet and lifts you up into the air. Now you know how many of our dogs feel – especially our smaller dogs – and why you need to rethink if (and how) you should pick up your dog.
I’ve had a rash of clients recently whose dogs were objecting to being picked up. The dogs’ feelings about being lifted have ranged from avoidance, tense body language, growls, snarls, and snaps, all the way to serious bites and visits to the emergency clinic for the unfortunate humans who chose to ignore the earlier warning signs. (To learn more about early warning signs that dogs may give when they are uncomfortable, see “Dog Growling Is a Good Thing,” WDJ December 2016, and “Learn to Read Your Dog’s Body Signals,” August 2011.)
Suffering the indignity of being unceremoniously grabbed off the ground is primarily an affliction of small dogs, but there are a surprising number of medium-to-large dogs whose humans also feel compelled to lift and carry them. Certainly, there are times when a dog needs to be carried – for example, when she’s injured or can’t otherwise negotiate the terrain on her own for some reason. In anticipation of those times, it’s worth taking the time to learn how to do it properly – and to help your dog be happy about the process.
Other than in times of necessity due to some calamity, with the exception of those dogs who actually do enjoy being carried, it’s best to minimize the times you sweep your dog off her feet. If you’re not sure how your dog feels about being picked up, ask an experienced force-free professional to help you interpret her body language. Does she truly enjoy it, or is she just tolerating the snatch and lift?
PAIN MAY BE THE ROOT CAUSE
Although we suggest not lifting most dogs unless absolutely necessary, there may be occasions when your dog must be lifted. Those occasions will go a lot smoother if you have invested the time in helping your dog be comfortable about being picked up.
The most important part of your dog-pick-up technique is to make sure you’re not causing your dog any discomfort – physical or emotional. Let’s look at the physical part first:
First, never lift a dog by their armpits. This is the best way to give your dog a negative association with being picked up – it hurts!
If your dog growls or tries to avoid being picked up, she may very well be experiencing pain during the lift. At her next check-up, ask your veterinarian to do a thorough physical examination to determination if a physical problem could be causing her reluctance to be picked up. If she’s hurting from arthritis, a strain, sprain, or any number of other conditions that can cause pain, you are guaranteed to give her a negative association if you try to pick her up.
While arthritis or a misalignment in the spine are probably the most common causes of pain in dogs who are picked up, even something like an ear infection or imbedded foxtail can cause her to be wary of the close contact required when being lifted. Treat or manage any pain-causing conditions before starting new lifting procedures. And be aware that even a painful event that happened in the past can sour your dog on the idea of being lifted; she may anticipate that the action might hurt her badly again.
BETTER WAYS TO LIFT YOUR LOVED ONES
The following methods for picking up your dog are less likely to cause pain and will make your dog more comfortable when being lifted:
This is approximately how you would do a “chest cradle” – but it shouldn’t be done with a dog who is this large! While the dog appears to be enduring this treatment, his weight is not well supported and he cannot be comfortable. Photo Credit: Lifeontheside/ Dreasmstime.com
* The Chest Cradle. To lift a medium or large dog comfortably, you want to cradle her in your arms – with one arm around the front of the chest and the other around her hind legs, below her tail and above her hocks, mid-thigh. Press the dog’s body against your chest and lift, making sure the entire dog is well-supported so she feels safe. Be sure to bend your knees and rise straight up (as much as possible); the more you bend at the waist the less secure your dog will feel.
A second option is to lift with one arm around the front of the chest and one around the dog’s waist – but this has more potential for causing discomfort, because the dog’s weight is resting on your arm and pressing on her underbelly.
* The Ribcage Lift. You can use the above-described Chest Cradle to pick up your small dog, too. The Ribcage lift is another acceptable alternative. For this one, place one hand under the ribcage just behind your dog’s front legs and cup that hand around the elbow of her front leg on the far side. Put your other arm over the top of and around your dog’s body just in front of the hind legs, with your hand around the entire ribcage. As you lift, hold her close and press your elbow against her hip to support her body securely against yours.
Contrast the dog above with this one, who has been trained to leap joyfully into his owner’s arms as a trick that they both obviously enjoy. If your dog is athletic enough to do this, it can be a crowd-pleasing and useful behavior.
* Lift Alternatives. There are alternatives to lifting your dog. I encourage you to use these as much as possible.
• You can invite her to jump up on your bed, the sofa, or into your car rather than lifting her in.
• If your dog can’t jump for some reason (or can’t jump high enough), use a ramp!
• If your small dog prefers not to be lifted, you can invite her to happily go into her crate (or jump in a laundry basket) and carry her that way.
• Another option for your small dog is to teach her to jump into your lap while you’re sitting – and then stand up while holding her, well-supported against your chest.
• If your dog is athletic, you can teach her to leap into your arms. Sunny, our 30-pound Pomeranian/American Eskimo Dog-mix, delights in jumping into my arms from the ground. (Of course that wouldn’t work if he were injured, so I still want him to be happy about being lifted when necessary.)
• Some small dogs may be more comfortable in one of the various front or backpacks designed for canine carrying, rather than being held in your arms.
• Many veterinary exam rooms have tables that can be lowered and raised. Ask your vet if she can lower the table and invite your dog to hop up on her own, rather than lifting her up.
• Similarly, a lift tailgate on a truck can be used the same way.
PICK UP TRICKS
Then there’s the training part. You can help your dog be happy about being lifted by giving her a new, positive association with the procedure and allowing her to have a choice in the process.
We’ll put our reliable old friends counter-conditioning and desensitization to good use here. (Technically, if your dog has no prior association with being picked up, you are conditioning – that is, creating an association – rather than counter-conditioning, which is changing an already existing association, usually from negative to positive.)
Break the picking-up process into small increments and get your dog happy at each step by pairing it with high-value treats (chicken is my favorite – low fat, low calorie, and high value for most dogs).
Start by reaching toward your dog, then feed a treat while your reaching hand is still offered. Repeat this step until she eagerly looks for chicken each time you reach. The next step will be to touch her and feed her a bit of chicken.
Gradually add steps that move you toward picking her up, making sure she is happy (not just tolerant) at each step before proceeding to the next.
When you are ready to actually begin lifting, add a cue. “Up” may come to mind, but if you use “up” to mean jump up on something (like I do) then you need to use something else. I use “Lift” for this, but you can use any cue you want as long as it’s unique to this behavior.
Say your “Lift!” cue and put very gentle upward pressure on your dog’s body, regardless of which lift procedure you have elected to use. Then feed a chicken treat (you are still doing counter-conditioning). As you continue, look for signs that your dog is participating in the process – perhaps moving into your hands when you lower them for the lift – and eventually boosting herself up when you give the “Lift” cue.
When she regularly offers those moves, you have established a cooperative care procedure; she is a willing partner in the lift. Congratulations! This is our goal with all the things we do with our dogs; we are always looking for signs that they are happy participants in the activities we ask them to do with us.
Of course, now you have an obligation to her. When you say “Lift!” watch for her to offer her signal that she is ready and willing to be lifted. When she signals, proceed with the lift. If she doesn’t offer the signal, she is telling you she’s not ready or not comfortable. Don’t pick her up. Reposition and try again.
If she repeatedly declines to be lifted, look for an alternative option – one of the several described above. Only if it’s an absolute emergency will you pick her up without her approval signal. For example, if she’s injured and needs to be rushed to the vet, the flood waters are quickly rising, or the wildfire is rapidly advancing on your home and you have to evacuate now. In that case, by all means pick her up – gently and carefully – and make a mental note to go back to refresh her pick-up training when there are no pressing emergencies.
Note: If your dog is seriously injured, I recommend muzzling her before picking her up. Pain can cause even the gentlest dog in the word to bite if the injury is jostled. If you don’t have a muzzle, a leash may do. Animal-control officers routinely leash-muzzle the injured dogs they pick up, by wrapping the leash snugly around the dog’s muzzle and holding it tightly while lifting the dog.
TRAIN ANY METHOD
As long as they can be habituated to being carried in this way, it can be incredibly helpful to train a little dog to jump into a carrier of some kind, so you don’t have to lift her by her body at all! Photo Credit: AleksandrZyablitskiy/ Dreamstime.com
If you plan to use alternatives to lifting, you’ll need to train those also. Your dog needs to already be very happy about her crate before you use it to physically move her, and you’ll still want to do lots of crate games with her, without moving the crate so that any trepidation caused by the moving crate is greatly outweighed by all the fun stuff.
Teach her the fun game of jumping into a laundry basket and play the game with her regularly, so the fun far outweighs any stress that might be caused by carrying her in it. If you plan to use a ramp or a lift board, introduce her to it and take the time (with treats, of course) to show her how to use it. If you want to use a pack or carrier, teach your dog to happily jump in on her own, so you don’t have to lift her to put her in it.
If your vet uses a table lift, ask if you can do happy vet visits where you introduce her to the table without it being part of an intrusive exam, and continue to occasionally drop by (during the clinic’s slow times) so you can play more fun table games with your dog. We recommend happy vet visits anyway, so this is just one more thing to include in your vet-visit repertoire. (See “Fear Free Veterinary Care,” August 2019.)
CARRIED AWAY
Compared to many of the behavior challenges I see with my clients’ dogs, the lifting problem is a relatively easy fix. The inappropriate dog-lifting I have seen with recent clients has been due solely to a lack of awareness on the humans’ part. I gently suggest to them that just because they can pick up their dogs doesn’t mean they should. Once educated about proper dog-lifting, each of them has jumped on board with protocols to minimize the need to lift and to help their dogs be more comfortable with being picked up if/when necessary.
This is how almost all puppies sleep, every day of their lives, before they go home with you.
I can’t tell you how many times I have heard this confession from an adopter of one of my foster puppies: “I know it’s wrong, but we allowed the puppy to sleep with us last night. I’ve read about how I must crate him. But he was crying! And he seemed so sad. And when we took him in with us he settled down and I finally got some sleep. But what should I do tonight?”
Almost every new puppy owner I counsel has searched the internet’s dog-training sites and emerged with the sternly delivered rule:
“Crate your new 8-week-old puppy at night. You’ll have to get up once or twice to let them out to go to the bathroom, but put them right back in. Ignore them when they cry. They’ll get used to it.” [Editor’s note: No one has ever read that on the WDJ site!]
If you have followed that advice and it’s working beautifully for you . . . fabulous. Happy trails. You can skip reading this.
If, however, this feels wrong to you, or you are dying to soothe your crying puppy, I’m here to give you permission to listen to your gut. Please do create a softer alternative for those first few nights. In fact, here’s the shocking advice I give to clients: If you want to, go ahead and bring that pup into bed with you. It’s what we do at our house, and here’s why.
HOW PUPPIES SLEEP
My family and I have now fostered close to 200 puppies, mostly moms with their litters. I spend countless hours watching the way puppies sleep and I can tell you this: It is never alone. It is in a warm, snuggled, co-breathing, ever-shifting pile of the beings they know and love best. There are puppy sighs, and – as they stretch – the sweetest little groans. Sometimes somebody staggers over for a cooler spot, but an hour later they’re back, burrowing into a nook they create just between their sister’s head and their brother’s butt. It is clearly bliss.
Alas, this can’t last forever, and one day, after two months spent sleeping exactly in this manner, the puppy goes “home” with his new humans. They are kind and responsible, and they are simply trying to follow expert advice when they take that confused puppy and stick him into a crate, alone, for hours, at night, with nothing to distract him. The puppy has nothing to do but miss his (real) family.
Of course he cries.
It’s not the end of the world. Eventually, probably, he will get over it. It might be in an hour, or a week, but eventually – probably – the puppy will sleep alone in the crate without crying (except for those pups who are triggered by their terror in a crate into developing separation anxiety). The “crate them right away” approach works fine for many, and it has its advantages. But there are other, kinder options.
BENEFITS OF CO-SLEEPING
I love crates and couldn’t do puppyhood without them! That’s why I introduce them slowly, at the pup’s own pace, resulting in a dog who sees the crate as a calm, happy spot. Here are my 7-week-old foster pups seeking out the open crate for their group nap.
At our house, when we have a pup just separated from the litter, we don’t do the alone-in-a-crate-all-night thing. Instead, we do our best to recreate that puppy pile they’re so used to, right in our own bed. We pop that puppy in between us. Soon enough, we are the littermates. After a very confusing first day without the comfort of her original family, you can almost feel the puppy sighing, thinking, “Okay, now this feels right.”
There is no crying, which means we get lots more sleep. Sure, we wake from time to time when the puppy readjusts, burrows in under an arm, or perhaps licks our face. But seriously? Those moments are delicious. If you are inclined to love that, don’t let that stern internet advice deprive you of one of the sweetest times in the world. Treat yourself, and your puppy, to six hours of easy bonding. You may well find that it advances your daytime interactions too.
WON’T HE PEE IN MY BED?
A big objection to this approach is that everyone’s sure the puppy will pee or poop in the bed. After all, when folks using a crate take the crying puppy out at 2 a.m., he always pees. They draw the conclusion that the pup was crying because he had to pee. Maybe! But more likely, he was crying because he was sad and lonely – most can easily hold it from 11 p.m. to 5 a.m.
How do I know? Because we do it all the time. With us, 8-week-old pups sleep soundly for those six hours with no bathroom break, happily snuggled into a family pile. Here’s how to make that happen:
✓ No food after 7 p.m.
✓ No water after 8:30. (Maybe a sip, but no big glugs.)
✓ Commit to a long, frisky play session outside just before bed. Not a quick step outside for a little pee, but a nice, action-filled adventure. (Motion encourages pees and poops!)
When we follow those rules, the puppies do not have to go out in the middle of the night. (The one exception is pups with diarrhea. If your pup doesn’t have a solid stool then this is risky indeed for obvious reasons.)
Mind you, once the pup truly awakens in the morning – more than just the reshuffling for a better spot, but walking around on the bed at 5 a.m. – it’s time to sprint into action. Jump out of bed – this is no time for your own bathroom break! Pick up that puppy and carry him outside quick. Whatever you do, don’t make the puppy walk to the door, because the motion of walking will mean “game over.” Carry the pup to the outdoor potty area and then be ready to reward him for what will naturally and quickly follow!
DON’T WANT TO SLEEP WITH A GROWN DOG?
Often folks are open to the idea of sleeping with a little puppy, but the idea of sharing the bed forever with a 70-lb grown dog is a hard “No!” They worry that once that barrier is broken, there’s no going back.
Not true. If you’d like, you can create a plan to transition the pup to the crate in a couple of weeks. By then, two incredibly important things will have happened:
1. Your pup will be happy at your house, understanding that you’re her new family.
2. You will have accustomed the pup to her crate with positive sessions during the daytime, so that she’s used to napping alone in there. It’s no longer such a big stretch to do it at night too. To make it easier, move an extra crate next to your bed, start using that every now and then during the day, and then one night – after a particularly adventurous, exhausting day – pop her in to sleep in there at night.
Perhaps you’re thinking, if she’s going to be sleeping alone in her crate soon, why not just bite the bullet and do it from the get-go? My answer is just … empathy. Surely you remember very sad moments of your life, times filled with fear. Just because they turned out okay later doesn’t mean they weren’t horrible. So why not keep your puppy from having that moment if you possibly can? Just because you know it’s all going to be okay doesn’t mean the puppy does.
FIRST NIGHTS ARE SCARY
After that first adjustment week, I find a crate absolutely indispensable for daily life with a puppy. And I’m also a big fan of letting a pup experience a slight feeling of discomfort before getting to the other side of a challenge. That builds confidence and resilience.
But when it comes to the very long night spent alone the exact moment the pup goes through the most shocking transition of her life? That’s one time where I’m going to err on the side of emotional comfort.
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Veterinarian Amy Shumaker's hand bite, courtesy of a 30-lb-Beagle-mix, required an ER visit for flushing of the wound, radiographs due to the depth of the bite, a tetanus booster, and antibiotics.
Photo Credit: Amy Shumaker, DVM,DACVD
When he got bitten by a dog who had jumped out of a car in a shopping plaza parking lot, at least family medicine physician David Wolpaw didn’t have to go to a hospital for treatment. After calling the police so they could locate the owner and take a report, Dr. Wolpaw tended to the bite himself at his office in Manchester, Connecticut.
Few of us are lucky or confident enough to be able to provide our own emergency medical care in the case of a serious dog bite. But thanks to his education and experience treating other dog-bite victims, Dr. Wolpaw knew what to do – and not just in regard to the wound itself. He knew it was also important to report the bite to the proper authorities.
WHAT TO DO IMMEDIATELY AFTER A DOG BITE
There are two things to do right away should you get bitten by a dog: contact the proper authorities and get medical attention for the bite. Dog bites can cause a puncture, scratch, or laceration. In addition, there may be bruising from the force of the bite.
With any luck, the dog’s owner is present and cooperative. In the best of worlds, you will be able to get the dog owner’s name, address, phone number, information about the dog (name, age, breed or breed-mix, and veterinarian’s name). If the dog happens to be wearing a license and/or rabies tag, you can photograph these for a quick way to get this information.
However, you may have to be quick. It’s all too common today for people to try to avoid responsibility or consequences in the case of a mishap. Though you are likely to be shocked and upset in the aftermath of a bite, if it looks like the dog’s owner might try to flee with the dog, be ready to take photos or video of the dog, the owner, any of the owner’s companions who were present, and the owner’s car. If it’s possible, ask your companion or any willing bystanders if they can call the police while you are taking pictures or vice versa.
There are several reasons you need information about the dog and owner. The first has to do with rabies.
In the United States, it’s very unlikely for a dog to transmit rabies to a human, but there are mandatory reporting and quarantine requirements for dog bites in most jurisdictions. These public-health laws trace back to a time when rabies vaccination was less common; if an unvaccinated dog (or a stray dog without identification) bit someone, and the dog showed signs of illness during a quarantine period, the person would be advised to receive post-exposure prophylaxis (PEP) – injections of human rabies immune globulin and rabies vaccine.
If the dog’s vaccination can be verified and he displays no sign of illness during his quarantine, the bite victim won’t need PEP.
If the owner is being antagonistic, don’t hesitate to call police and/or animal control for assistance. Public safety officers will also be needed if the dog who bit you seemed to be a stray, with no owner in sight. Do not try to chase or capture the dog, but photograph the dog if you possibly can; photos can help animal-control officers identify the dog.
According to the United States Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, there are about 4.5 million dog bites in the U.S. per year, with about 18% (800,000) of those serious enough to require medical attention.
Children are the most common victim of dog bites and are more likely than adults to be severely injured by a bite. Bites to the head, neck, or face represent about half of the cases that require medical intervention.
Benjamin Phillips, MD, MPH, of Wakefield, Rhode Island, a board-certified plastic surgeon with a sub-specialization in hand and peripheral nerve surgery, describes this statistic as simply a function of proximity of the child’s head to a dog’s face: A child is the “right height,” and they tend to do things like put their faces up close to dogs, hug or try to kiss dogs, or approach dogs as they are eating or are near their food bowls.
In contrast, adults most frequently suffer bites to the body – particularly on the hands or arms – from breaking up dog fights, or simply acting to defend themselves from a dog attack, which children are less able to do.
Dog bites are not just traumatic, their treatment is costly. According to the American Veterinary Medical Association, insurance companies paid out $854 million in liability claims related to dog bites and dog-related injuries in 2020 alone. And the average cost of a dog-bite insurance claim in 2020 was $50,245.
WHAT TO DO WHEN A DOG BITES YOU: SEEKING MEDICAL ATTENTION
Though it may sound a little mercenary, before the wound is cleaned or treated, take pictures of your injuries. Continue to document the bite wound and any other bruises or abrasions you may have received. This evidence might be needed in case of any litigation – or to help prove the extent of the injury to the dog owner’s insurance company.
Assuming you’re not in need of an ambulance, the next step is deciding whether you are capable of dealing with the wound yourself or if you need to get to an emergency room.
Facial wounds require immediate emergency medical treatment for both cosmetic reasons and high risk of infection. For other wounds, both Drs. Phillips and Wolpaw advocate cleansing the wound with warm, soapy water for 10 to 15 minutes thoroughly to flush out any debris or foreign bacteria. If the wound is bleeding, Dr. Phillips advises elevation first – particularly if the bite is to a hand or arm – and applying pressure to the area for 15 minutes, then washing with warm, soapy water. If the wound continues to bleed, seek professional medical care right away.
If the wound stops bleeding, and you opt not to seek professional medical care, Dr. Phillips advises watching for redness around the wound, especially if the bite is on your hand. If an infection sets in, you may see red streaks running toward your forearm, you may develop a fever, or your hand or fingers may feel numb. All these signs necessitate medical intervention as soon as possible.
Once cleaned, the wound can be covered with a loose bandage, changed multiple times a day as needed. Fluids should be allowed to seep out of the wound. Dr. Phillips is not a proponent of topical ointments because patients tend to overdo it, and the ointment sometimes acts as a stopper, leading to an infection.
For bites other than facial wounds, both doctors agree that it is never a bad idea to be seen by a medical professional right away, or, at most, within 24 hours of the bite. This goes double for people with diabetes or compromised immune systems. Tetanus is a consideration, and while not all dog bites require antibiotics, oral antibiotics may be indicated, or prescribed prophylactically.
Also, if the wound is significant and legal action ensues, you will want to have a record that you sought care. Dr. Wolpaw notes that in case of a lawsuit over the costs of treating the bite, if the victim failed to get immediate medical attention, the defense attorney will surely seek to mitigate her client’s responsibility and suggest that the victim is partly responsible for failing to get prompt care.
Reluctant to Report?
There are a number of reasons that some people might be reluctant to report a dog bite.
Some people might be fearful of the potential consequences for the dog. This reluctance might be understandable, especially if the bite was the result of bad timing and/or unlucky circumstances, rather than an owner’s clearly negligent management of a dangerous dog or willful disregard for the safety of others. But as long as the dog had no former bite record, in most cases, the worst thing that the dog might suffer is a quarantine in strict confinement for 10 days, often at home; the dog’s owner may have to pay fines (for an unlicensed dog, a dog at large, or any other applicable violations).
Dogs with more than one public-safety offense may be required to be registered as a “dangerous dog.” Dogs who have been designated as “dangerous” may be allowed in public only when wearing a muzzle, or subjected to other restrictions.
If it turns out that the dog has a history of several previous bites and insufficient management, in our opinion, the report and any potential consequences for the repeat offense are especially necessary. A dog with several serious bites to his credit, in the hands of a person who is incapable or unwilling to provide adequate management and control of the dog, is a deadly threat to the public.
What if the dog who bit you or someone in your family was a friend’s dog? Admittedly, this is a sticky situation. If your relationship is strong and the friend agrees to and is able to take financial responsibility for your medical treatment, you may decide to decline to report the bite – especially if you feel reasonably confident that the dog is not a threat to other people. Understand, though, that this is taking a risk. For example, a dog bite to the hand that gets infected can cause nerve damage that would preclude a person from being able to use that hand for certain tasks (playing guitar, say) or occupations. Lacking any official report or record of the bite, it’s unlikely you could get your friend’s insurance company to cover your extensive medical costs.
However, you may not have a choice in the matter, since in most states, medical providers are required by law to report dog bites to local animal-control officials. Their mandatory reporting may save you from having to make a socially uncomfortable choice.
UNSEEN WOUNDS WHEN A DOG BITES YOU
Don’t discount the effects of emotional trauma after being bitten. The author’s sister was bitten by a dog while out on a walk many years ago, yet is still anxious around dogs, save for the author’s own Bouvier!
Dr. Phillips says he has seen some “gruesome stuff,” but he is quick to acknowledge that the emotional component associated with dog bites is sometimes worse than the physical ones – at least the physical wounds usually heal more quickly than the emotional ones. It may take some time before the victim realizes that they experienced a traumatic event. Dr. Phillips says he has had patients develop crippling anxiety after being bitten – severe-enough anxiety that they required a referral to a mental-health provider.
My own sister was bitten by a dog while on a walk, and years later, still feels highly anxious when approached by off-leash dogs. Fortunately, she is comfortable with my dog, and she has learned to “be a tree” and avoid eye contact if an unfamiliar dog approaches her during beach walks.
Dr. Wolpaw believes that emotional fallout is another reason to seek medical care right away. He has seen cases of people dealing with post traumatic stress disorder (PTSD) that required treatment; credible medical documentation is helpful should liability issues arise.
His final advice: Keep good records and take care of your medical issues, especially if the dog is not known to you. “You shouldn’t minimize the situation because there could be problems down the road. Better safe than sorry,” he says.
Consider Getting a Canine Liability Policy
According to the Insurance Information Institute (III), a homeowner’s or renter’s insurance policy will typically cover dog-bite-liability expenses, unless the claim exceeds the policy’s liability limits (usually $100,000 to $300,000) – or unless you’re one of the unlucky ones whose insurance company doesn’t cover dog-bite claims.
It pays to know what you have for coverage. Los Angeles-based attorney Kenneth M. Phillips, owner of DogBiteLaw.com, recommends that dog owners have coverage of at least $100,000 for liability plus $1,000 for no-fault medical payments, although he prefers at least $300,000 plus $5,000. Getting this coverage may require a primary policy (homeowner’s, renter’s, or a specific canine liability policy), and a secondary policy (umbrella or excess policy).
A “canine liability policy” is an option if you’re unable to get a homeowner’s or renter’s policy because you have a dog or a certain breed of dog, your insurer doesn’t cover dog bites, or if your umbrella policy doesn’t cover dog bites. At least two states (Pennsylvania and Michigan) have laws prohibiting insurers from canceling or denying coverage to the owners of certain breeds of dogs, while some states allow coverage exclusions after a dog bites.
Phillips recommends that you speak with your agent about what your policy specifically covers and what it excludes. He also advises that you review the language in your policy to understand whether dog bites are excluded; look for the “Personal Liability” section and review the policy exclusions. The declarations section will show the limit of the policy.
Pay attention to updates and notices from your insurance company – “riders” or policy amendments – as they may declare coverage changes.
State legislation varies widely in terms of liability if your dog causes injury – whether from a bite or other incident (i.e., knocking down an elderly person, chasing someone into traffic). According to the III, as of March 2021, 29 states have strict liability dog-bite statutes in which the dog owner is held liable for any injury or property damage that the dog causes, although some states have exceptions, such as if the dog was provoked or the victim was trespassing. In 17 states and the District of Columbia, the III states, “Liability is not automatically granted but attacks are classified as misdemeanors or, in extreme cases, as felonies, with fines,” and four states have no dog-bite laws. On top of that, local ordinances can add another layer of complexity.
After 23 years of editing this publication, there are some topics I could speak knowledgeably about for hours to any random crowd of dog owners. Crate-training, house-training, heartworm disease, nail-trimming, vaccination – these topics are throughly in my wheelhouse, and when I read the articles on these topics that are submitted by my expert contributors, I rarely learn facts that are brand new to me (though they will be super useful to people with less dog-owning experience).
But I am also happy to report that, pretty much every month, at least one (and usually more) of the articles that are submitted to me contains completely novel information and time/money/heartache-saving advice I’ve never read elsewhere.
The first article appearing in the July 2021 issue is one such piece. In the process of researching advice for people who had been bitten by someone else’s dog, author Lisa Rodier not only answered the question of what dog-bite victims should do, but also what most dog owners should do to protect themselves in case their dogs should bite someone. A lifelong dog owner, I never knew there was such a thing as dog-bite liability insurance or that I should confirm whether my homeowner’s insurance would adequately protect me if one of my dogs bit someone (as unlikely as I hope that would be!).
It may not be easy to discover this information. When, to take this advice myself, I asked our insurance agent these questions, he referred me to our carrier’s underwriting department – he couldn’t tell me whether we were covered if one of our dogs bit someone! It took some time to reach a human in the underwriting department – and then more time to thoroughly convince that person that neither of my dogs had bitten anyone, that I was just trying to get information! – before I was able to ascertain that, yes, our umbrella policy would protect us if one of our dogs bit someone. Sheesh!
But it’s our goal to bring value and an effective and uniquely dog-friendly approach to all of our articles, even those that discuss topics that you may be very familiar with yourself. Take, for example, the article by trainer Kathy Callahan, discussing whether it’s a good idea to allow your new puppy to sleep in bed with you. Search that topic online and you will find a wealth of articles saying, “Don’t do it! Crate that puppy! Close your ears to the crying and stiffen your resolve!” But that’s outdated advice. Today’s educated trainers like Callahan understand that such a rigid recommendation is as likely to trigger a young puppy’s separation anxiety as it is to work out without any further drama. Count on WDJ to bring you an effective, modern look at perennial problems.
