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Ticks on Dogs: Everything You Need to Know

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ticks on dogs
This is an adult female American dog tick. Ticks that are in the nymph (juvenile) phase of their lives are much smaller, perhaps the size of the grayish shield (sputum) on this tick's back.

Ticks are blood-sucking, disease-spreading parasites that are genetically related to spiders. They are found worldwide and pose considerable risk to your dog (and you!) because of the bacteria they carry and transmit through their bites – bacteria that can cause serious, even life-threatening illnesses, including Lyme disease. It’s important to defend your dog from ticks to the extent possible, and promptly remove any ticks you are unable to prevent from reaching your dog, in order to protect him from tick-borne disease.

KNOW THY ENEMY

This grape-sized engorged tick probably had been feeding on a dog for many days. It can be difficult when the tick is this engorged, but you must take great care to not squeeze the tick as you remove it. Squeezing the tick can force any pathogens present in the tick into the dog. Instead, use a tick-removing tool that will slide close to the dog’s skin and pull the tick away without squishing it.

There are two main types of ticks with very different anatomies and lifestyles. Hard ticks, members of the Ixodidae family, are the main concern for you and your dog due to their free-ranging life style. Soft ticks, members of the Argasidae family, tend to stick close to the nests or burrows of their hosts. This means we are less likely to encounter them when walking in the park or playing in the yard.

Ixodid ticks include the deer tick, also known as the blacklegged tick (Ixodes scapularis), the American dog tick (Dermacentor variabilis), the brown dog tick (Rhipicephalus sanguineous), the Gulf Coast tick (Amblyomma maculatum), the Lone star tick (Amblyomma americanum), and the Rocky Mountain wood tick (Dermacentor andersoni).

Ixodid ticks free range in the environment looking, or waiting, for their next victim. They hang out on vegetation, sticking two of their eight legs out and waving them around, in a behavior called “questing,” so they are ready to grab on to the next passerby. Once they have grabbed onto an animal, they crawl around and make their way down to skin. There they cut the skin with their mouth parts to make a feeding hole. Their saliva contains a cement-like material, which they spit into the hole to secure themselves tightly while they feed for days. 

As if all this isn’t gross enough, once they reach a certain point in their feeding, they continuously regurgitate back into the host. This regurgitation is how they infect the host with the disease-causing organisms they carry within them. 

Each of the diseases spread by ticks is caused by an infection with a bacteria or protozoa that is carried within the ticks. Each species of tick tends to carry different organisms within them, though some ticks may carry more than one pathogenic organism.

Most of the diseases caused by an infection of these tick-borne pathogens are named after the bacteria, protozoa, or virus they carry. Thus, anaplasmosis is caused by an infection of the bacterial species Anaplasma phagocytophilum. Babesiosis is caused by an infection with the protozoa Babesia microti.

Other infectious diseases spread by ticks include hepatozoonosis, Rocky Mountain spotted fever, Colorado fever, ehrlichiosis, and of course, the infamous Lyme disease. 

Another deadly condition caused by ticks in dogs is called tick paralysis. Tick saliva contains a neurotoxin that causes a progressive paralysis in susceptible dogs. This will result in the death of the dog unless the tick is found and removed. Fortunately, if the tick is removed in time, most dogs will make a full recovery. (See “Tick Paralysis,” WDJ July 2013 for more detail.)

Signs of tick-borne diseases in dogs vary somewhat depending on the disease, but most include fever, lethargy, and inappetence. Some will cause anemia, enlarged lymph nodes, bruising, muscle pain, and joint aches.

The upside is that, while these diseases can be fatal if left untreated, most respond favorably to appropriate antibiotic therapy and supportive care, if diagnosed sooner than later. 

Screening for these diseases, to catch them before they make your dog sick, makes good sense. This is easy to do, as the annual blood test recommended for all dogs, which originally only tested for heartworm disease, now additionally tests for antibodies for Lyme, ehrlichia, and anaplasma. Proactively screening for these diseases is the best way to ensure early detection and a good outcome, should your dog be exposed.

Been Walking In Tick-Infested Areas?

Whether your dog has been treated with a tick-preventative product or not, if you’ve been walking where ticks are likely to be, you should check your dog for ticks before letting her into the house (or car, if you’ve driven to a walking site). 

A tape roller – the kind most of us dog owners carry to remove dog hair from our clothing – is a handy way to capture loose, crawling ticks on our dogs’ coats. Another way to remove loose ticks is to wipe down your short-haired dog with a microfiber cloth; if your dog has a thick or long coat, go over them with a brush or comb.

Check your dog again later in the evening, perhaps after dinnertime, when you and your dog are relaxed, and you can thoroughly feel your dog for any ticks who may have already bitten and attached to your dog. 

KEEPING YOUR DOG SAFE FROM TICKS

Ticks, as opposed to fleas, are difficult, if not impossible, to control in the environment. They are ubiquitous – found literally everywhere in the world. 

Additionally, they spend only a short amount of time on their hosts compared to the time they spend in the environment, they have amazing survival mechanisms, they reproduce like crazy, and they live a long time (they can go as long as two years without a blood meal!). Eliminating them from the environment, sadly, is impossible.

Your best bet is to avoid them if possible. If tick exposure is even a remote possibility, preventing them from attaching and transmitting disease is paramount. For humans, this means long-sleeved shirts, long pants tucked into our socks, bug spray, and keeping yards clear of long grass and leaf debris.

For our dogs, this means using an effective tick preventative.

Luckily, there are many good choices on the market now. Your choices for effective tick prevention boil down to oral products, topical products, or one very popular, highly effective collar.

* Oral preventatives. Oral products, like Nexgard (Boehringer Ingelheim) and Bravecto (Merck Animal Health), contain isoxazoline derivatives that negatively affect the tick’s nervous system, resulting in death of the tick. 

Oral products are effective and convenient. The tick does need to bite the dog, however, so you may find dead ticks on your dog or in your home. It can take anywhere from 12 to 48 hours for the tick to die with these products. Since it takes at least 48 hours for a feeding tick to start regurgitating and transmitting disease, using Nexgard or Bravecto will effectively prevent tick-borne disease. 

Oral products, as opposed to topical products, are absorbed systemically by the dog and distributed to all body tissues. They are gradually eliminated through the liver, unchanged, into the bile and out through the feces. They are eliminated without requiring any work by the kidneys or liver.

Oral products that contain a class of chemicals called isoxazolines can cause seizures in susceptible dogs, however, the incidence per doses sold is extremely low. Dogs who have experienced seizures prior to any exposure to these drugs are at the highest risk of an adverse response to them. 

Merck uses an isoxazoline-class chemical called fluralaner in both its oral and topical products called Bravecto. According to Merck, no direct link has been made between the oral form of fluralaner in Bravecto and seizures (though Merck’s site says, “Use caution in dogs with a history of seizures”).

* Topical preventatives. Effective topical tick preventatives, like K-9 Advantix (Elanco, formerly Bayer) and Frontline Shield (Boehringer Ingleheim), contain pyrethroids like permethrin and flumethrin. Pyrethroids are insecticides, so they will kill the tick. But they also repel, which means no ticks biting or attaching to your dog. They do this by what’s called the “hot-foot” effect. The chemicals literally burn the ticks’ feet, so they want to get off the dog.

Another aspect of topicals, in addition to their ability to repel ticks, is that they are not systemically absorbed. They translocate to the skin’s oil glands, where they slowly dissipate over the next several weeks. They are waterproof, so swimming and bathing doesn’t reduce their effectiveness as long as it’s not within 24 hours of application.

*Tick collars. Our final category in tick preventatives is collars. In this author’s opinion, the Seresto collar (Elanco, formerly Bayer) is the only collar to choose. 

The Seresto collar contains flumethrin and imidacloprid. It has the hot-foot effect for repelling ticks, and it paralyzes the tick’s mouth parts within 10 minutes. The ingredients are not absorbed systemically (testing of blood and tissue showed no detectable amounts). They collect in the skin’s natural oils, releasing small amounts of active ingredient daily. The collar remains effective for up to eight months. Dogs who swim a lot should have their collars replaced every five months.

Recently, USA Today reported that the Seresto collar was responsible for causing serious illness and deaths in dogs, but the allegations made in the article were refuted by both Elanco and the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency. The article made a lot of buzz, but most veterinarians, including me, were skeptical about its allegations; we just haven’t seen many adverse events caused by the collars. 

And, again, the number of legitimately reported adverse events is minuscule compared to the millions of collars sold. No direct cause and effect has been discovered to date – and, given the number of counterfeit Seresto collars that have been intercepted by customs agents, the possibility is very good that at least some, if not many, of the adverse effects reported have been caused by counterfeit products with undetermined safety and efficacy. These counterfeits look very much like Elanco’s Seresto collars, right down to the packaging. 

The best way to make sure that the product you are buying is not a counterfeit is to purchase only from your veterinarian or by sellers that are authorized by Elanco. To find authorized sellers, go to petbasics.com/where-to-buy.

* Please note:. If your dog experiences any adverse effect following the use of any tick preventative, keep a note of the type of product used (including its ingredients) and don’t repeat that product or use another product in its class. Instead, discuss alternatives with your veterinarian.

Also, we don’t recommend low-cost pesticide products that are sold over the counter in grocery stores and big-box stores. The lowest-cost products sold in these markets tend to have the highest rate of adverse effects and lowest effectiveness. 

TICK BITES

See “How to Get the Tick Out” July 2019 , for a review of tick-removing tools that easily remove ticks without squishing them. This is the Pro-Tick Remedy, our favorite.

What should you do if you find a tick on your dog, despite your best efforts to prevent this? 

If you are comfortable removing the tick yourself, do so. If you are uncomfortable with this, call your veterinary clinic. A licensed veterinary technician will be happy to help. 

If the tick does not appear to be engorged (big and fat from a large blood meal), the likelihood of disease transmission is low; the tick is unlikely to have regurgitated any pathogens into your dog yet.

If the tick is engorged, or if you just want to be sure your dog was not infected by the tick, schedule a tick test in six weeks. It takes six weeks for your dog to seroconvert (show detectable antibodies after exposure), so testing earlier could result in false negative results. If your dog shows any of the signs of tick-borne disease discussed above, see your veterinarian right away. 

Some health departments and human hospitals offer testing of the tick to determine if it may have been carrying disease. These tests are not always reliable, and even if the tick tests positive for a disease, it does not necessarily mean it infected your dog. For these reasons, having your dog’s blood tested six weeks after the bite is a better recommendation. 

Related Article

How to Remove a Tick from a Dog

Dog Life Jacket Review

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dog life jacket
Saber wears our top pick for boating safety, Bay Dog's Offshore Canine Life Jacket.

As we ride out the dog days of summer, many of us are enjoying water-based activities with our dogs. Whether at the shore, in the family pool, or on a boat, kayak, or paddleboard, it’s important to ensure your dog’s safety with a good-quality, well-fitted personal flotation device (PFD) for your dog.

Even though most dogs instinctively “dog paddle” when they find themselves in water, that alone won’t always keep them safe when away from dry land. Some dogs dislike water and are prone to panicking. Dogs with significant muscle mass or very little body fat are less buoyant and must work harder to stay afloat, as do older dogs who tire easily, or arthritic dogs. Some dogs are just poor swimmers, bobbing vertically in the water, splashing so much with their front paws that they can’t see where they’re going. 

Even athletic, accomplished swimmers can struggle in the water when fatigue sets in after a full day of water play. What about in the case of a watercraft accident, where the dog might be injured or rescue is delayed?

In each of these examples, a well-fitting dog life jacket can potentially mean the difference between a day filled with happy memories or a day that ends in tragedy. 

Why No Buoyancy Ratings for Dogs?

It’s important to note that, unlike human life jackets, which are rated by the U.S. Coast Guard based on how much buoyancy they provide, no such rating exists for canine PFDs. 

For several years, the Center for Pet Safety (CPS), best known for its independent crash tests of canine car safety harnesses, has been accepting donations for a planned study of canine life jackets (in partnership with the Western University of Health Science, College of Veterinary Medicine) in an effort to follow-up on the university’s pilot study which identified concerns about PFDs on the market at the time. To date, it appears the study remains unfunded. 

Our own tests of these products consisted of simple observation of the dogs wearing the jackets in and around the pool and the lake; we did not attempt to scientifically measure the buoyancy provided by the PFDs. We have described our impressions of and experience with the buoyancy of each product we reviewed to the best of our abilities, but can’t quantify precisely how much flotation any of these products provides. 

How can a dog owner know how much buoyant material is enough for their dog? You have to consider your dog and your planned water activities. 

Are you planning to sail the Pacific Ocean and want to protect your dog in case of an emergency? Are you looking to support an inexperienced swimmer or an older dog? (If so, look for the most buoyant products.)

Do you need a life jacket with a sturdy handle to help return your dog to the paddleboard or kayak should one or both of you take a spill into the water? 

Or, are you looking for more of a “flotation aid” versus a “life jacket” – meaning, a product that is less bulky and best used in calm water where quick rescue is expected?

ATTRIBUTES OF A GOOD CANINE LIFE JACKET

A life jacket should be bright, making it easy to see, and should have a snug fit. If it’s too loose, it can entangle the dog or come off, or it will float above the dog while the dog bobs along in the water. If it’s too tight, it can chafe and become uncomfortable, making it unlikely the dog will enjoy wearing it. A properly fitting life jacket should not restrict the dog’s movement in or out of the water.

Just as with flotation devices for children, there are dozens of low-quality canine flotation devices on the market. From our past reviews and experience, we are aware that a life jacket should be well constructed with sturdy materials and an adequate amount of buoyant material inside. When gathering products to review, we rejected dozens of products that appeared to be made with narrow straps, flimsy buckles, shoddy or inadequate stitching, uncomfortable-looking design, and/or minimal amounts of buoyant material. 

That initial cut left us with six products with dog-friendly designs and good-quality workmanship and materials. We put them to the test with the help of two water-loving retrievers: Saber, a 55-pound, 9-year-old Golden; and Finley, a 58-pound, 1-year-old Labrador. 

One canine life jacket rose to the top as our all-around pick based on its impressive buoyancy, overall design, and affordable price: EzyDog’s DFD. 

The body of the DFD is comprised of the thickest internal foam of any of the jackets in our test, measuring ¾ inches thick compared to the ½-inch thickness of the other jackets we reviewed. The fit of the jacket reminded us of a turtle shell; its thickness gives it an overall higher profile than most of the other models we tested. 

The DFD jacket is secured at the chest with a quick-release buckle and along the dog’s body via two additional wide straps and heavy-duty, quick-release buckles. The straps slide through nylon loops along the side of the jacket, which keeps them from sliding out of place. 

The extra-wide under-body straps of the EzyDog DFD are kept from slipping out of place by the nylon loops on the side.

We especially appreciate how the body straps expand into 3-inch-wide neoprene strips that pass under the dog. The width and placement of these strips help keep the jacket securely in place. This prevents chafing, and we imagine the soft, wider straps are far more comfortable for the dog when being lifted in the jacket than the narrower nylon straps found in the other products. 

Our one criticism of this jacket is minor: The handle on top of the size medium jacket is only 4½ inches long, potentially making it difficult for those with larger hands to get a deep grip when lifting a dog out of the water (especially if the smaller sized jackets have even smaller handles).

Saber appeared to ride higher in the water than usual as he swam in this jacket. He also sprang to the surface very quickly after leaping off the dock into the lake, and was happy to run around wearing the jacket. 

The added thickness of this jacket gives it the potential to be warm, especially on a dry dog in the sun. Fortunately, the DFD comes in both red and yellow. The bright yellow should reflect a bit more heat than the darker red color; it might be the better choice to help keep the dog safe and comfortable on hot days. 

When it comes to serious open-water activities, Bay Dog’s Monterey Bay Offshore Canine Life Jacket is in a class of its own for its unique design, maximum flotation, and ability to keep a dog upright in rough water. Like many of the canine life jackets we tested, the Bay Dog’s internal foam layer measures approximately ½-inch thick over much of the jacket. But it also offers added buoyancy with two 1½-inch-thick foam pontoon rails along the top of the jacket – and a 1-inch-thick pentagon of foam at the dog’s chest. Our test dog, Saber, practically walked on water with this life jacket! 

The Offshore Canine Life Jacket slips over the dog’s head with an adjustable, telescoping neck hole. The belly section and top section get connected by a 3-inch x 5½-inch strip of hook-and-loop fastener and are further secured with two sturdy quick-release buckles. It took some work to perfect the fit and properly secure the various adjustment points, and we were grateful for Saber’s willingness to stand patiently as we tinkered with the jacket; this would be challenging on a wiggly dog. Once it was well adjusted, however, the fit was terrific.

Saber reminded us of a pontoon boat as he wore the Offshore jacket, and with good reason. The placement of the pontoon rails keeps the wearer upright in rough water, making it our top pick for boaters, where an accidental dog overboard or other incident would be especially dangerous. 

The back of Bay Dog’s Monterey Bay Offshore jacket has two reinforced handles for pulling your dog out of the water and onto a boat or dock.

We particularly like how the Offshore jacket features two reinforced perpendicular handles along the back by which the dog can be lifted out of the water. 

The jacket is sturdy and appears well-made, and while we think it may be overkill for daily and weekend water adventures, the effect of the stabilizing pontoons could prove useful in teaching a reluctant swimmer to find their sea legs – or, of course, actually saving a sea dog’s life.

If they were for humans, the remaining four products in our test pool (no pun intended!) would likely be rated as “flotation aids” versus “life jackets.” They are less bulky than our top picks, and best used in calm water where quick rescue is expected. 

They are also so similar that we struggled to offer a competitive ranking. (They’re all good jackets, Brent!) Each offers about the same thickness of internal foam; it was difficult to observe any increase in Saber or Finley’s in-water body elevation, as they are both hard-charging, accomplished swimmers. (Again, here’s where a scientific test of the amount of flotation provided by the jackets would be beneficial.) 

It was a struggle, but for basic assistive support for novice swimmers or additional safety for accomplished swimmers, we gave a slight edge – a half-paw advantage – to two of the four remaining products that we’d recommend. 

3 1/2-PAW SELECTIONS

Finley models ExyDog’s DFD X2 Boost Canine Life Jacket, which slips over the dog’s head; the neck opening is adjusted from the back of the jacket.

EzyDog, the manufacturer of our top overall pick, makes another appearance with the DFD X2 Boost Canine Life Jacket. The DFD has an overall thickness of approximately ¼ inch. The jacket slips over the dog’s head and fits close to the body, connecting with two straps and quick-release buckles under the belly. 

Unique to this jacket is how the chest fit is adjusted via a buckle on the back of the dog’s neck. This arrangement made that aspect of the jacket much easier to adjust (you pull up rather than to the side). It also makes for a much wider opening as the jacket goes over the head, making it a good choice for head-shy dogs who are learning to be comfortable with gear being passed over their heads. 

We also like that fitting instructions, including a diagram, are printed directly on the inside of the jacket, offering a reminder of how the jacket should fit each time it is used. 

The rescue handle is thick, sturdy, and roomy enough to accommodate hands of all sizes. The top of the jacket features a high-strength alloy D-ring, and reflective piping for added visibility (a necessity for nighttime water rescues). 

Ruffwear’s Float Coat has been redesigned since we reviewed it in 2016. It not features a reflective screen print for superior visibility in low light.

Our other 3½-paw rating goes to Ruffwear’s Float Coat, which features a telescoping chest piece and belly panels secured by two quick-release buckles. 

Ruffwear recently redesigned the Float Coat, and, in addition to being very different aesthetically, the belly panels on the current Float Coat are about one inch shorter than on the original model, to which we gave top honors in a 2016 review. As a result, the belly panels didn’t quite meet or overlap, leaving about an inch of Saber’s belly exposed and subject to direct contact by the nylon straps. 

With this development, I’d be a little concerned about chafing from the straps, or that they’d dig into his body if I needed to lift him out of the water by the handle. His girth measurement is at the top of the suggested range for the medium jacket, but the website recommends sizing down when between sizes. It’s possible this just isn’t the best-fitting jacket for Saber’s body type.

The telescoping nature of the chest piece makes it less bulky than models where the chest pieces overlap and are secured with hook-and-loop fasteners and a buckle, but this also makes for a closer fit as the jacket goes over the dog’s head. 

The Float Coat’s handle is sturdy, and the top of the vest has a plastic attachment for the leash and an attachment point for The Beacon, Ruffwear’s watertight LED light (sold separately). 

The current Float Coat appears to be made from a finer-weave material, making it more flexible than its previous incarnation. Instead of reflective piping, it now features a same-color reflective screen print to improve visibility in low light. 

Consumer comments on a Ruffwear-related Facebook page reveal mixed opinions about the new design, with many people commenting about the shorter belly panels and some suggesting they don’t think the current model is as buoyant as the original. 

3-PAW SELECTIONS

Kurgo’s Surf N Turf is a bit longer than the other jackets we reviewed, making it a good candidate for longer dogs.

Kurgo’s Surf N Turf Coat is similar in overall shape to the Ruffwear Float Coat and EzyDog DFD X2 Boost, but there are many differences between the two products. 

The top of the jacket features two sturdy handles, sewn at right angles, potentially making it easier to hoist the dog out of the water from any angle. There’s a metal ring for attaching a leash, and a second, concealed attachment point that doubles as a bottle opener – a fun touch, especially if you’ve trained your dog to fetch beverages from the cooler!

The Surf N Turf Coat is secured by two straps with quick-release buckles under the dog’s belly; the adjustable front piece overlaps at the dog’s chest, where it’s secured with hook-and-loop fastener and a buckle. The fact that the chest piece overlaps, rather than telescopes, allows for maximum variability in size, potentially making the Surf N Turf a superior choice for broad-chested breeds. 

It seems the belly panels on the Surf N Turf are not designed to meet or overlap, as the size medium, recommended for dogs with a chest measurement of 24 to 32 inches, left a gap of about three inches on Saber (his chest measures 29 inches). Once again, we’d worry about the potential for discomfort with that much strap in contact with his skin.

This jacket is longer than our top two picks, potentially adding additional support in the water, and making it worth an extra look for dogs with longer backs. 

Kurgo markets the Surf N Turf as a both a life jacket and a simple shell coat; a zipper along the base of the jacket allows removal of the inner flotation layer. 

We were initially unsure of this feature, thinking maybe it was the product trying to be too many things at once, but ultimately decided it does potentially give consumers more opportunity to use the jacket, and, given that dog life jackets aren’t cheap, maybe that’s a good thing? Also notable is Kurgo’s lifetime guarantee, protecting purchases for life against manufacturing defects. 

The Kong Sport AquaPro features reflective strips for additional visibility in low light or nighttime boating.

The Kong Sport AquaPro is similar in overall design to its higher-rated competitors. The jacket is secured at the chest with hook-and-loop fastener and a quick-release buckle, with two straps that pass under the dog’s belly. Here, too, the belly panels failed to meet or overlap, leaving part of Saber’s belly exposed directly to the nylon straps. 

The Sport AquaPro looks and feels slightly less sturdy than the other jackets we tried, though it’s much improved over the similar Kong Sport Aqua Float, which we tested in 2016. It was difficult to notice any difference in Saber’s in-water appearance, but the jacket feels flimsy in comparison, making it difficult to rank higher. 

One feature we appreciate – and wish other manufacturers would emulate – is the elastic band used for excess strap management. Tucking the “tails” of the excess strap length under a band of elastic is much easier than rolling them up and securing the roll with hook-and-loop fasteners, as is common on some of the other jackets we tested. 


WDJ’S TOP PICKS IN CANINE LIFE JACKETS

WDJ RatingProduct Name/Maker InformationPriceSizes Comments
4 out 4 PawsEZY dog DFD
EzyDog LLC, Ponderay, ID
ezydog.com
$55 to $67 from Amazon5 sizes. Smallest (XS) fits a dog with a 19- to 32-inch girth; largest (XL) fits a dog with a 30- to 48-inch girth.Two colors (red or yellow). Top honors for buoyancy, comfort-minded features, and affordability. Very thick buoyancy foam used in this jacket. Under-body straps are especially wide for comfort. Small complaint: handle (for extracting dog from water) is on the small side.
4 out of 4 pawsMontery Bay Offshore Dog Life Jacket
Bay Dog, Annapolis, MD
baydog.com
$65 to $75 from West Marine5 sizes. Smallest (X Small) fits a dog with a 7- to 10-inch neck and a 12- to 16-inch girth; largest (X Large) fits a dog with a 21- to 27-inch neck and a 34- to 46-inch girth.Two colors (orange or yellow). Our pick for maximum safety in open water; excellent choice for boaters or in situations where rescue might be delayed. Jacket contains unique pentagon of buoyant foam in the chest section and two more “pontoons” of foam along the sides for a high ride in the water; this would be especially helpful for a dog negotiating waves in an ocean environment.
3.5 out of 4 PawsEZY dog DFD X2 Boost
EzyDog LLC, Ponderay, ID
ezydog.com
$79 from Amazon5 sizes. Smallest (XS) fits a dog with a 18- to 21.5-inch girth; largest (XL) fits a dog with a 34- to 41-inch girth.Two colors (red or yellow). Innovative adjustment point at the back of the dog’s neck helps ensure a proper fit. (The fit on this jacket was especially good with our deep-chested, small-waisted test dogs.)
3.5 out of 4 PawsFloat coat dog Life Jacket
Ruffwear, Bend, OR
ruffwear.com
$90 from Amazon6 sizes. Smallest (X-Small) fits a dog with a 13- to 17-inch girth; largest (XL) fits a dog with a 36- to 42-inch girth.Three colors (blue, red, orange). A recent redesign has been met with mixed reviews from users of the previous design, but our test dogs found it to be flexible and comfortable. We’d prefer wider straps under the dog (if another redesign happens).
3 out of 4 PawsSurf N Turf Coat
Kurgo, Knoxville, TN
Kurgo.com
$46 to $70 from Amazon5 sizes. Smallest (X-Small) fits a dog with a 9- to 13-inch neck and a 14- to 20-inch girth; largest (X Large) fits a dog with a 28- to 36-inch neck and a 28- to 44-inch girth.One color (red). Versatile design; converts from a life jacket to a lightweight shell coat when the swimming season is over; nice! Shorter belly flaps potentially expose dog’s undercarriage to nylon straps.
3 out of 4 PawsKong Sport AquaPro
(The Kong name seems to have been licensed for this product; jacket not sold by Kong Company.)
$60 to $80 from West Marine5 sizes. Smallest (XS) fits a dog with a 16- to 20-inch girth; largest (XL) fits a dog with a 33- to 41-inch girth.One color (green/gray). Similar in concept to others in our test, but feels less durable overall. As with the Ruffwear and Kurgo designs, the side flaps don’t meet under the dog, so the narrowness of the under-belly straps gives us pause.

Dog Walking: 4 Approaches to Add Enjoyment

dog walking
Getting the opportunity to smell things, whether a gopher hole or another dog’s “pee mail” on a tree or post, can vastly increase your dog’s enjoyment of and stimulation from a walk. Give him permission with a cue, such as “Go sniff!” And if you are on a walk without enough time to allow sniffing, you can also teach your dog a “Let’s hurry!” cue, to indicate that stopping is not on the agenda. Make sure to reinforce him for coming along with you at a good clip!

recently saw a cartoon of a person walking with her dog by her side in perfect heel position – and clearly not enjoying the experience. The dog’s thought bubble said, “Whose walk is this, anyway?” 

Sadly, this exemplifies the all-too-common approach to dog-walking: go out, take the obligatory march around the block, let the dog stop to empty his bowels and bladder, and march back home. Besides being boring, the dog gets very little exercise or mental stimulation on this kind of walk! 

Fortunately, more and more dog lovers are realizing that, for maximum value and enjoyment by both species, a dog needs to go far beyond the around-the-block bathroom walk. For more fun on your walks with your dog, check out the following types of walks and select the ones that are most suited to you and your canine companion:

  1. The Scent Walk (also known as a Sniff Walk or Sniffy Walk). This one is easy, and your dog will love you for it. To maximize your dog’s enjoyment, select a quiet walking site where you can use a longer leash. Plan to go slowly. Just stroll around with your dog. Take your time and let your dog choose where to go and when to stop and sniff. 

Scent work is a great enrichment activity, empowers your dog by giving him choice opportunities, and is very satisfying and calming for him. It is also surprisingly tiring. Even a relatively short “sniff walk” can help your dog be more relaxed and less likely to engage in unwanted behaviors when you get back home. A longer sniff walk may wipe him out for the rest of the day! The Scent Walk is becoming increasingly popular as owners see how happy this style of walk makes their dogs.

If you can’t find an optimum grassy walking site, simply allowing your dog plenty of opportunities to stop and sniff on your leisurely walk around the neighborhood can be much more fulfilling for him than the traditional bathroom march.

You can supercharge your scent walk by going to your walking site before you take your dog there. Leave him in the car if safe/cool enough to do so, leave him with a walking companion or leave him at home, while you go out first and widely broadcast treats or kibble around the walking area. Now watch him have an even better time as he sniffs out the treasures you have tossed. (Remember to subtract an equivalent amount of calories from his meals so he doesn’t tank up from all the sniff-treat fun.)

  1. Canine Parkour Walk. Parkour can add a great element of fun to your dog’s walks. You’ll need to find a walking site that offers a variety of objects – natural or human-made, urban or rural – that you can invite your dog to negotiate during the walk. You can combine it with a scent walk, too! 

Objects can include rocks to jump on and off of, fallen logs to walk on or jump over, stumps to balance on, various playground equipment to navigate (kids have first dibs), pipes to run through, benches to walk across, wooden or stone fences to jump on or over, and so on. 

Some trainers now offer Dog Parkour classes, and your dog can even earn titles from the International Dog Parkour Association. Parkour is fun, tiring, and a great confidence-building activity. For more information, see dogparkour.org.

  1. Fast Walk. This is a walk on steroids, and a favorite of joggers and bicyclists. While this kind of walk does provide your dog with more exercise than a boring bathroom march, there are some important safety considerations to keep in mind:

• Consider the limitations of your dog’s breed or type. Some breeds are more athletic and well-suited to a fast jog or bike ride, but brachycephalic (flat-faced) and heavy-bodied dogs are poor candidates for this type of exercise, especially in hot weather.

• Your jogging or biking partner needs to be well trained so he doesn’t bolt in pursuit of a squirrel or another dog and pull you off your feet or your bike. See “Jogging With Your Dog Improves Overall Fitness and Health,” WDJ February 2009. 

• Start out slow – and talk to your vet. She can tell you if your dog is a good candidate for jogging or biking and can help you create a gradual training plan so your out-of-shape canine pal doesn’t suffer injury from too much, too fast, too soon. Dogs who are young, obese, or who have medical challenges may not be good candidates for jogging or biking.

• Stay off hot pavement. Your shoes or bike wheels protect you from the heat, but air temperatures as low as 77° F can turn pavement into a hot plate that burns your dog’s paws at 125° F or higher. It takes only 60 seconds or less on pavement that is 125° F for your dog’s pads to burn.

• If you want to bike with your dog, you will need to train him for this – don’t just hop on your bike with your leash in your hand and go! There are a number of products that will attach the leash to your bike so your hands are free to control your ride – and you and your dog will need to practice with these before going for longer rides. For tips on readying your dog for this type of exercise, see “Bike Riding With Your Dog,” March 2009. 

An off-leash walk (or walk on a long line) out in nature can help your dog de-stress and decompress.
Photo Credit: Disqdr/ Dreamstime.com
  1. Off-Leash Walk. Last but by no means least, I consider the Off-Leash Walk to be the epitome of dog-walking fun. 

Dog trainer and behavior consultant Sarah Stremming coined the term “decompression walk,” meaning an off-leash walk (or walk on a long line) in nature, allowing the dog to move freely, pause, sniff, and just be. Decompression walks can benefit every dog.

If your dog can be trusted to come when called, and if you have a location in your area where dogs are legally allowed to be off leash, this walk gives your dog the kind of autonomy and freedom that can come closer to fully meeting his enrichment and exercise needs than almost anything else: He can just be a dog. He can run fast, sniff whatever he wants, jump in the creek, and make all his own choices about which way to go and what to do. It’s also easier on you – you don’t have to handle the leash, keep it from getting it tangled around brush, or worry about your dog pulling. 

I discovered the joys of off-leash walking with my dogs when I lived in Marin County, California, where dogs were allowed to be off leash in the vast expanses of county-owned open space in the hills between towns. My dogs and I spent hours hiking on Mt. Burdell on the north side of Novato. It kept me and my dogs sane, and I have countless fond memories of our time there. 

It was there that I realized an important fact – one that I share with all my clients to this day: A leashed walk is an exercise hors d’oeurve for most  dogs. When you take your dog for an off-leash walk he will run miles for every mile you walk and relish all the added enrichment benefits. There’s not an on-leash walk that can come close to comparing with this experience. See “How to Train Your Dog for Off-Leash Walks” in the March 2019 issue of WDJ for training tips.

If your community lacks off-leash open spaces, check out Sniffspot (www.sniffspot.com. The company contracts with landowners (they call them “hosts”) to provide access to private spaces – some fenced, some not – where people can take their dogs to run for a small fee.

It takes time and practice to learn to manage a long line (a particularly long leash) but, used in the right setting, it can increase your dog’s walking enjoyment tenfold.
Photo Credit: Nikita Oryshchak / Dreamstime.com

Alternatively, you can use a long line to walk a dog who can’t yet be trusted to not run off. You can find long lines up to 50 feet long online (just Google “dog long line”) or make one yourself if you want a longer one. Note that it takes some practice and skill to learn how to manage the line and its propensity for getting tangled around things, but you can still use it to let your dog be a dog.

HEELING IS GOOD, TOO…

Of course there are times when your dog does need to be able to walk politely by your side on a leash, and it’s important to take the time to teach him to do that. Read more on leash walking here.

Handicapped Dogs Enjoy Walks, Too
Photo Credit: Ivonne Wierink/ Dreamstime.com

Even dogs who are non-ambulatory, disabled, or who need to have their activity restricted enjoy being taken for walks. The enrichment experience can contribute to their mental health, especially for dogs who are otherwise “shut-ins.” This will require that you find an appropriate vehicle for your dog – such as a wagon or stroller, or a trailer or sidecar for your bicycle – and train your dog to stay in it. Since you will be pulling, pushing, or pedaling, a seat belt is a good safety measure, to make sure he doesn’t leap out at the sight of some compelling distraction.  

Positive Reinforcement Dog Training Through Food

positive reinforcement dog training
Move up the treat hierarchy ladder until you can overcome distractions. These 10 week-old pups are listening even though they're in a group, there's a big dog, they're outside, and they're not on their own property.

Take a moment to ponder a miracle: We can reach across the great species divide and convince a dog to do something utterly unnatural – like walking slowly at our side, with a weird thing around his neck. Even more amazing is the fact that we can make this moment feel great to the dog. How? By starting with the universal gateway: Food. Food in the form of treats is the basis for positive reinforcement dog training.

Food is a gift to cross-species communicators: It’s fast. It’s clear. It’s happy. Use food to tell your puppy, “Yes! That’s exactly what I mean!” and pretty soon your puppy ends up having all sorts of positive feelings about you, about training, and finally about that weird walking-by-your-side thing. You’re on your way to a very well-behaved dog who also happens to be a joyful best friend. 

FOOD MOTIVATED POSITIVE REINFORCEMENT DOG TRAINING

Folks will sometimes tell me they can’t use treat-based positive reinforcement dog training because their puppy isn’t food motivated. I ask the human what they’ve tried so far. That’s when I get the blank stare. I prompt: “Fresh chicken? Cheddar cheese? Dried fish? Vienna sausages?” 

“Oh, wait,” they say as the realization kicks in. “I can give them that stuff?”

Fantastic! We don’t have a training challenge. We’ve only just begun.

The key tool in a positive-reinforcement training arsenal is the reinforcer. You need to put thought and effort into it. You know that one brand of shelf-stable chicken treats that you’ve been buying at the pet store since Day One? That’s not going to do the trick when you’re out on a walk and your pup hears the siren song of another dog across the street! 

BEST DOG TREATS FOR POSITVE REINFORCEMENT TRAINING

To set yourself up for a lifetime of focus from your dog, you need to create a pattern of being the best game in town. It’s easy to earn that designation with a piece of kibble when you’re in the boring old family room asking for an easy sit. But as you progress to more difficult tasks and more distracting environments, you’ll have to work your way up what I think of as the “treat hierarchy ladder.”

Discovering your dog’s treat hierarchy will take a bit of investigation. (Your dog will be all in for this key step in the training journey!) The point is that all dogs are not the same, and some have strong preferences. I knew a dog who loved chicken, but couldn’t care less for turkey. Knowing exactly what makes your dog’s knees go weak with glee comes in very handy as you train. (Plus, it’s cute.)

Just to get you started, here’s what’s on my own pack’s ladder these days, roughly in order from lowest priority to highest:

  1. Their own daily kibble
  2. Some other dog’s kibble
  3. Most store-bought training treats
  4. Cheddar cheese
  5. Cut up sweet potato, microwaved and dried a bit
  6. Bits of apple, red pepper, sugar snap peas, and kale. (Even better if they’ve watched me cut it up and know it was part of my own salad. Seriously.)
  7. Feta cheese
  8. Hot dogs
  9. Freeze-dried liver
  10. Fresh chicken breast
  11. Canned cat food
  12. Dried fish

A policy of using the lowest-rung item you can get away with allows you to bring out the big hurrah when you really want to make an impact. I save dried fish for when I call the dogs in from barking at the foxes who are just beyond our fence. They zoom back, even with those rude interlopers out there taunting them! But if I used dried fish for daily training, soon I would not have the dried-fish tool to combat the fox situation. Whatever’s top rung on your dog’s ladder should not be used for everyday training – and don’t expect the lowest rung to allow you to compete with, say, a running deer. 

Mind you, form matters. You obviously don’t want to take a can of cat food with you on a walk, but it’s a perfect high-impact reward for a dog who’s being calm around the new kitty in the kitchen. When you know you’ll need a handful of reinforcers that are easy to deliver quickly and precisely in a challenging environment like a busy walk – i.e., not sticky, or falling apart – the store-bought treats can be best. Sometimes soft works better than crunchy, because needing to chew something can slow down the rhythm of your training. Bottom line: Be ready to put in some time experimenting and have a training bag with sections for different items.

Oh, you’re worried that using “human food” will teach pup to beg? Um, don’t tell pup it’s human food. If you feed pup a Milk Bone off your plate at the dinner table you’ll be teaching him to beg. Begging is situational. 

NOVELTY MAY BE YOUR DOG’S FAVORITE FOOD

My go-to training treats are: cheddar cheese; hot-dog bits microwaved for 15 seconds and then dried on a paper towel so they don’t leave that icky film on your hand; boiled chicken; sweet potatoes baked and cut into tiny pieces

One of my clients reported that her dog was no longer interested in training. I asked what she was using as a reinforcer. “Fresh boiled chicken!” Hmm. That’s a good start. Then she said, “I always use that.” Ah-ha!

Just because it was the most incredible taste sensation last Friday does not mean it will have the same appeal next Tuesday. While some dogs do have always-and-forever favorites, others are more thrilled by novelty. If you sense a lack of interest, remember to keep changing things up.

3 WAYS TO MAINTAIN YOUR DOG’S DIET

People worry that using food to train will interfere with a solid diet and cause the dreaded intestinal dismay. Of course that can happen if you aren’t careful, but normally it’s not an issue at all, for three reasons:

  1.  Use teeny tiny pieces! I mean miniscule. Basically a whiff, plus a bit that touches the tongue. We are not feeding our dogs here. We are creating a happy thought for them. Just a moment’s experience of that feta cheese – “Wait, what was that?” – is enough for a pup to be all in with training. Pea-size is a good rule. So think about it: If you reward your dog two dozen times in a five-minute session, that’s about two tablespoons.
  2. Watch the poop! Every now and then a dog will have an unwelcome response to a particular item. Just remove that treat from the ladder. In the meantime, use sweet potato bites and boiled chicken to train with – since that’s one of the things a vet will tell you to feed a dog with the runs.
  3. Do the shuffle! If I’m doing a whole lot of training with one particular dog, I will use half of her normal kibble and half other yummies. The pup doesn’t know which treat she’ll get at any point in training but is willing to eagerly play the lottery because sometimes it’s her favorite. (When I do that, I do keep the super-duper special food separate in the pouch so that I can use it when I need to.)

ISN’T THIS JUST BRIBING WITH DOG TREATS?

Sometimes – often right before they get addicted to positive reinforcement dog training –owners question this emphasis on food. They feel like they’re bribing their dogs. They have a sense that their dog should just want to listen to them and obey. They ask about the old-fashioned methods where treats are not used.

You know what’s used in those methods? Fear. “If you don’t do what I ask, you’ll experience something bad.” Is it just me, or is that the approach that should be raising questions in an owner’s mind? 

There is no in between. There’s no mind-meld training where you use neither a carrot nor a stick. No method where this member of another species automatically wants to do weird things like “shake” at exactly the time you want him to. It’s a carrot or a stick. 

I have no qualms with using carrots, and plenty of them. Yes, I scale back to an intermittent reward schedule. My dogs generally do as I ask and half the time get only a kind word and a nice butt scratch as a reinforcer. But, gosh. Why wouldn’t I want to make it extra fun for them to spend time with me training? Why wouldn’t I be grateful for a little thing I can do to make us both enjoy training equally – my pups enjoying the treats, and me enjoying the progress? 

Dog Recovery Suits Review

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dog recovery suits
Atle, a 9-year-old Bouvier, models a step-in, back-snap recovery suit from Cover Me by Tui. To allow the dog to eliminate, you unsnap the lower portion and roll it forward; more snaps secure the flap out of the way.

hate putting an Elizabethan collar on my dog – the dreaded cone that renders many dogs confused, depressed, or panicked. Yet, when a dog has a hot spot, wound, or surgical incision site that requires protection from his natural inclination to lick, the #1 go-to for veterinarians has always been the Elizabethan or e-collar. (We’re just talking about “cones,” not electric or electronic collars, which are also sometimes called e-collars.)

Thankfully, there are now quite a few alternatives to e-collars for protecting wounds and so forth. Today we will focus on one specific type of alternative: the recovery suit, a garment that is essentially a dog onesie.

For a rundown of other dog cone alternatives, see our recent review of your dog’s post-op options.

CONE CONCERNS

No doubt about it, most of the time, e-collars do what they were designed to do: create a protective barrier to prevent the dog from licking the area of concern. “Licking is a huge impediment to wound healing,” says veterinary dermatologist Tiffany Tapp, DVM, DACVD, owner of Veterinary Healing Arts in East Greenwich, Rhode Island, since the area remains moist and becomes the perfect breeding ground for bacteria and subsequent infection. “If caregivers can get their dogs to leave their lesions alone during that time, the dog will be well on their way to recovery. Coverage is essential.”

The problem is that most dogs find the experience of wearing a cone barely tolerable; there are stories of dogs who shut down, become frantic, refuse to eat or drink, or have any number of other adverse reactions to the contraption. Fitted with an e-collar, my own 9-year-old Bouvier, Atle, runs into furniture, gets stuck in small places, and definitely becomes depressed. 

While the shutting down part may not sound so bad from a practical standpoint – most dogs recovering from surgery or injury need to be kept quiet – distress and depression are not good for healing.

And, physically speaking, there are compelling reasons why some veterinary health care providers are not fans of cones. As someone who sees dogs with ear issues almost daily, Dr. Tapp prefers recovery suits over e- collars because the giant cones sit immediately behind the ear and do nothing to protect the dog’s neck. She also notes that e-collars cause heat and humidity to build up, exacerbating ear issues.

Debbie Gross Torraca, DPT, MSPT, CCRP, CCMT, is the founder of Wizard of Paws, an animal physical therapy practice in Colchester, Connecticut. She explains that she would rather see a dog wear anything but an e-collar. “I find them so invasive and stressful for the cervical spine. And the visual or anti-visual impact of the e-collar can really mess up some older dogs with pre-existing conditions, negatively affecting their vision and proprioception.” 

A T-SHIRT WON’T DO

Atle and I had our own experience dealing with e-collars and recovery suits after he had two benign growths removed – one on his mid-back, and the other on the back of his hind leg. Despite his primary care veterinarian sending us home with instructions to use an e-collar, I didn’t. He wasn’t worrying the incisions, and I thought we were home-free. 

Unfortunately, days later, I realized that Atle had licked his leg incision; we were soon on our way to see Dr. Tapp, who diagnosed both incisions as being infected and missing sutures. Dr. Tapp recommended a recovery suit, a t-shirt, or an e-collar. Initially, I rigged up a covering using a t-shirt and my cycling leg warmers. My homemade version kept falling off. 

I finally ordered a Cover Me by Tui post-surgical garment – and it was a game-changer. No longer did I have to constantly check his garments for slippage, and I could dine in peace without having to listen for the dreaded sound of a dog licking an incision. Atle accepted the suit much more gracefully than he does an e-collar.

Suits Me! Recovery-Suit Considerations

I’m a convert to the recovery suit as an alternative to an e-collar, but before you slap a suit on your unsuspecting dog, consider these points:

Plan ahead. Like muzzles, ramps, and other equipment that take getting used to, if possible, make your purchase before you need it. If your dog has a surgery scheduled for next month, buy now! Then, both you and your dog can acclimate to it – your dog for comfort, you for ease of use. 

Most companies recommend that the dog wear the suit for a finite amount of time. Shed Defender, for example, says no more than eight hours a day. Monitor your dog for signs of overheating, and regularly check for matting when the suit comes off.

If your dog has a significant recovery ahead of them, consider getting two suits so that one is still available while the second is being laundered.

Choose a suit that accommodates your dog’s medical condition or disability. For example, an older, arthritic dog may do better with a back closure suit that doesn’t require limbs to be manipulated.

Keep your dog’s nails trimmed; long nails and Lycra don’t mix well.

“Measure twice, order once.” Look at the company’s website for measuring guidelines or call the company for help. 

SO MANY OPTIONS

I don’t know why I hesitated to order a recovery suit; the business is booming with products marketed for a variety of uses: controlling shedding, calming anxious pets, covering hot spots, preventing licking and chewing, UV protection, allergy prevention/relief, wound prevention, protection from ticks and burrs, visibility, and management of incontinence and heat cycles. A quick web search turns up countless options, from  cheap knockoffs to pricey, sleek, high-tech models.

As a former professional in the rag trade, I’m particular about garment construction and fabric. I started my search for a suit that would comfortably fit Atle – and that I could easily get him into. Other considerations included laundering, price, sizing, type and location of closures, how the garment went on, coverage, durability, and how the dog is expected to eliminate while wearing the suit.

I selected a number of products to try, and then considered them in three categories: long-sleeved suits (to cover any points on the dog’s legs or multiple sites on the dog); sleeveless body suits (for use when conditions are limited to the dog’s trunk or neck); and sleeve-only products. The latter were a late discovery – I reviewed only one. 

PRODUCTS WITH SLEEVES

*Cover Me by Tui. The 100% cotton material of this long-sleeved suit is soft, breathable, and durable. The suit offers quality construction, was easy to put on (due to a relaxed fit), with no zippers to snag hair. You have to bend your dog’s legs to put on the over-the-head model, though less than with spandex suits. Atle isn’t a fan of clothing going on over his head, so we both appreciated the step-in, back-snap model.

We tested a size XL, which was a snug fit for Atle and even more so for Holden. The over-the-head model was an XXL and was a less restrictive, almost too-roomy fit, although both models feature snaps on the sides that can be used to adjust the girth. 

The “potty flap” can be a little challenging to navigate because of the number of snaps (16 on the XL!) required to secure it. The neck is a wide band of fabric of moderate height, though maybe less than ideal if neck coverage is a concern. 

The K9 Topcoat Full Cover Body Suit wouldn’t look out of place at the Olympics, but it’s a great option for a dog with multiple sites in need of protection.

* K9 Top Coat Full Cover Bodysuit. This suit has a very sleek, high-tech look and feel, and was the most expensive product I tested – but in this case, you get what you pay for. The suit is well constructed and features top stitching; it’s made from a 6 oz. Lycra blend with a nice hand weight (is not flimsy) and that, the company claims, offers anti-allergenic, fungicidal, and bactericidal properties.

The full length, sturdy zipper runs from the neck to just under the dog’s tail, requiring it to be unzipped slightly to allow the dog to eliminate. I love the fabric guard under the zipper that prevents hair from getting caught, though, given the quality of the garment, I was a little surprised at the lack of a zipper “garage” (a fabric housing for the zipper pull tab). 

A Velcro tab at the neck provides extra security, and the garment’s neck snugly covers all the way up behind the ears. An adjustable strap runs the length of the back and can be used to shorten the suit. 

Putting the suit on wasn’t difficult, though it does require you to bend your dog’s legs. Atle is not a fan of a snug fit, and did a lot of shaking off and acting subdued, but perked up and moved normally outdoors. 

Shed Defender Sport

* Shed Defender Sport. Made from a proprietary 80/20 polyester/Lycra blend, the Sport model features a lightweight, 7-inch, easy open/close zipper that runs from just behind the front armpits to mid-belly, meaning no unzipping is required for the dog to urinate. Additional shirred elastic banding extends from the belly end of the zipper to behind each leg to keep the garment in place. The Sport provides good coverage of the neck. 

For Atle, I bought the XL size, which is indicated for dogs from 61 to 84 pounds, but the product is a little on the snug side and seemed to restrict his movement a bit. 

The “hand” of the fabric (how it feels to the touch) was a little light; when asked, the company was unable to provide me with the weight of the fabric. Whatever its weight, it seems too light and not durable enough, especially for big dogs. When I stretched one of the seams on the garment, a rough fingernail edge inadvertently caught the fabric and made a tiny hole. 

That said, the Sport is about half the price of the K9 Top Coat and could be an option for the dog owner on a budget. 

Heywean Recovery Suit

* Heywean Long Sleeve Dog Surgical Recovery Suit. Beware of knock-offs! I was interested in this suit because it had a full-length back zipper, but the product arrived with a split seam and the sleeves are more ¾ than full length. A low-quality product for a moderate price ($37 – $50).

SLEEVELESS SUITS

Medipaw Protective Suit

* Medipaw Protective Suit. This suit is made from a cotton/Lycra blend with a substantial weight and feel. The two-piece garment features “pants” that look like briefs, and a sleeveless “top.” The pants have two leg holes and a tail hole, while the top has two leg holes. 

Since the top goes on over the dog’s head, each front leg needs to be lifted and bent to fit through the leg openings. Though the pants can’t be worn alone, the top can. On Atle, it extends all the way to his groin, and because of the garment’s “compressive” nature is less likely to ride up than a t-shirt. When the top is worn with the pants, the top affixes to the pants via wide Velcro strips. The top’s neck is high, offering ample neck protection (earning plaudits from Dr. Tapp) and the ability to be folded down like a turtleneck. 

The top features a large internal pocket for ice packs or absorbent pads. The company advises sizing down if in doubt, since the garment stretches a little during use. 

* Suitical Recovery Suit. The sleeveless Suitical is made from a nice-feeling, robust cotton/Lycra fabric. The garment is simple and well made, with a high neck that has loops inside through which a collar can be run. Soft, non-restrictive bands of fabric line the leg holes. The suit goes on over the head, and you have to bend the dog’s front legs to get them through the “arm holes.” There are no hind leg holes to navigate; instead, the back of the suit snaps near the tail to secure the garment. 

For bathroom breaks, you unsnap the garment and fold/roll the fabric toward the dog’s chest, where a tab sits to secure the flap while the dog eliminates. 

This would be a great option for us if we had to deal with ear issues or hot spots on his chest, armpits, neck, or belly. Atle overheats easily, so a sleeveless garment would be a great option provided it covers the areas of concern. The company also makes front leg “recovery sleeves” that could be used in tandem with the suit for additional coverage when needed.

VetMedCare Bodysuit

* VetMedCare Bodysuit. The VetMedCare suit we tested was a sleeveless over-the-head stretchy tube with four leg holes, available in male and female versions. I wanted to like this product because of its light weight, simplicity, and long sleeve/sleeveless models. But I question the product’s long-term durability; after one laundering in cool water, the suit stretched out and didn’t bounce back.

SLEEVE ONLY

Lick Sleeve

* Lick Sleeve. I discovered this departure from a “suit” late in the game and reviewed only this one: the Lick Sleeve. Designed by a veterinary surgeon, it’s for the hind leg only, but in an ingenious design, can be turned inside out in order to fit either the left or right leg. The sleeve offers full coverage and is simple to put on. Were my dog to have cruciate surgery, this lightweight sleeve would be my pick. 

Available in three sizes (for dogs 30 pounds and up), the product is not inexpensive, but compared to the cost for additional veterinary care if the dog disturbs the health of a surgical incision, it’s well worth the price. 


RATING “RECOVERY SUITS” IN VARYING SLEEVE LENGTHS

Product, WDJPaw RatingSizes, PriceMaterial, LaunderingHow it goes on“Bathroom” AccessComments
LONG AND SHORT SLEEVE SUITS
Cover Me by Tui
(800) 208-6170
tulanescloset.com
3 out of 4 Paws
7 sizes
$30 - $47
100% Peruvian Cotton.
Machine wash cold; tumble dry low.
Over the head and step-in (secured by dorsal snaps) models. Moderately high neck.Unsnap, roll and secure terry cloth-lined “potty flap.”Long and short sleeve models. Leg length not adjustable. Special orders possible. Quality materials and construction at a good price.
K9 Top Coat Full Cover Bodysuit
(888) 833-5959
K9topcoat.com
3 out of 4 Paws
10 sizes
$92 - $106
82% nylon, 18% spandex.
Machine wash cold; line dry or tumble dry delicate.
Over the head with full length ventral zipper with zipper guard. High neck.Unzip for males.Tested by UC Davis School of Veterinary Medicine. Made in USA. Company offers lifetime warranty against defects in material and workmanship.
Shed Defender Sport
sheddefender.com
2.5 out of 4 Paws
9 sizes
$40 - $63
80% polyester, 20% spandex (Shed-Tex, made from recycled bottles).
Machine wash; tumble dry low.
Over the head with ventral zipper that stops at stomach; no zipper guard. Moderately high neck.“Sport” allows elimination without unzipping; “Original” must be unzipped.Long sleeve. “Original” model has ventral chest to tail zipper. Sleeveless bodysuit also available. 30-day risk-free trial.
Heywean Dog Surgical Recovery Suit
Amazon.com
1 out of 4 Paws
8 sizes
$26 - $40
95% cotton, 5% spandex.
Cold wash, line dry.
Full back zipper/step in.Fabric may be cut for male dogs.Chinese import sold online only; no company information or website available. Low-quality.
SLEVELESS BODY SUITS
MediPaw Protective Dog Suit
(800) 245-3413;medipaw.com
4 out of 4 Paws
8 sizes
$37 -$51
94% cotton, 6% Lycra.
Machine wash cold; line dry.
Over the head; front and back pieces joined by Velcro. High neck.Remove “pants” and/or roll up front piece.Two-piece design. “Top” piece may be worn alone. Well-made product at an attractive price point and available in a wide range of sizes.
Suitical “Recovery Suit”
suitical.com
4 out of 4 Paws
10 sizes
$35 - $40
95% cotton, 5% Lycra.
Machine wash; line dry.
Over the head with snaps at rear. High neck.Unsnap and tuck in/roll up fabric, secure with snap.Designed in collaboration with veterinarians. Simple, well-made product, at an attractive price point, in a wide range of sizes.
VetMed Care Bodysuit
Available from jorvet.com
1 out of 4 Paws
12 (female and male options in 6 sizes)
$23 - $36
90% polyamid, 10% elasthan. Machine wash hot; tumble dry low heat.One piece, over the head, no closures.Small opening in suit for males.Not very durable; stretched out after one laundering.
HIND LEG
Lick Sleeve
(855) 989-3733
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Download The Full August 2021 Issue PDF

  • STAY AFLOAT
  • FOOD IS YOUR FRIEND!
  • WALK THIS WAY! OR SOME OTHER WAY...
  • TICKS TICK US OFF
  • LEARN DOG MASSAGE
  • INTELLIGENT REFUSAL
  • RECOVERY SUITS YOU
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Intelligent Disobedience

Intelligent disobedience
Service dogs are taught to refuse a cue to do something if complying with the cue would be unsafe for their handler; their judgment is respected, supported, and rewarded. This experience is not commonly extended to many of our companion dogs - but it could be! Photo Credit: Szabolcs Steiber / Dreamstime.com

Sometimes, we don’t want a dog to do what we just told the dog to do. Intelligent disobedience, also known as intelligent refusal, is a concept held dear by those who train service dogs, especially guide dogs for the visually impaired. These dogs are taught to use their own judgment and not respond to the cue of their blind human if it’s not safe to do so. For example, if given the cue to cross the street but there is traffic coming, the dog is expected to decline to move forward no matter how strongly the handler urges the dog forward.

HOW IS IT TAUGHT?

Twenty or30 years ago, this behavior was taught using aversives. The trainer carried a cane and would rap sharply on an obstacle to alarm the dog into avoidance behaviors. Dogs were walked into moving cars to teach them to stop for oncoming traffic. Not surprisingly, there was a high dropout rate in those training programs. Fortunately, times have changed. Most modern service-dog training programs incorporate science-based positive reinforcement training, and the dropout rate has plummeted. 

Dogs are initially taught behaviors such as “move forward” with a reward marker (such as the click of a clicker, which signals the dog that she has done something that will result in a treat) followed by the delivery of a treat. Once the dog reliably responds to the cue to move forward, she can be taught to refuse to respond to that cue in certain situations.

When the “move forward” behavior is very solid, obstacles such as barriers, ditches, drop-offs, and low-hanging signs or branches are introduced. The dog is cued to move forward, but the reward marker and a treat are delivered before she can take even a single step. The handler then touches the obstacle with a hand to create an association with the click/treat and the behavior of not-moving, then encourages the dog to find a way around the obstacle. 

When the dog reliably disobeys in the presence of obstacles, more difficult challenges are introduced, such as narrow passageways and eventually traffic. 

Self-preservation likely plays a role here. A dog doesn’t want to bump into a barrier, step off a cliff, or get hit by a car any more than you do! But in other cases, the dog must be able to view the obstacle from the human’s perspective; this is the very cognitive piece of this behavior. The dog could easily walk under a hanging sign or a tree branch, but how low is too low for the dog’s handler to pass under? How narrow is too narrow a passage for the human, even though the dog could easily pass through? How much of a ledge is too high for the handler to step off? The dog must be able to understand all of this.

Amazingly, guide-dog trainers report that this skill has no effect on the dogs’ willingness to respond reliably to the “go forward” cue when there’s not an obstacle. The dogs readily understand that the refusal response is expected and accepted only when there is a potential hazard in the path. That’s some impressive cognitive thinking!

REFUSAL AT HOME?

As recognition of canine cognition expands, there is growing acceptance of the non-service dog’s option to sometimes say, “No.” If we understand why our dog may choose to decline to respond to our behavior requests, we can either respect her choice and not ask her to do that behavior, or, as the supposedly more intelligent species, we can figure out how to get her to willingly and happily do what we want or need her to do, without the use of fear or coercion. 

Our appreciation for intelligent disobedience, whether in service dogs or our own canine family members, is a sign of our growing respect for the dogs who are such an important part of our lives. 

Dogs Can Learn Very Quickly – With The Right Motivation!

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Neither one of my dogs has ever been a beggar – haunting the kitchen or dining table, whining or nudging us in hopes of receiving bits of food from the table.  And it’s not even because we don’t ever feed them a scrap of food from our plates, because we sometimes do. And sometimes we feed them our leftovers scraped into their food bowls.

But this was the summer that I started teaching our grandson to make his own breakfast, which resulted in not only a lot of leftover scraps of food, but also dropped food, including the occasional raw egg dropped onto the floor. Our grandson is cereal-averse, and scrambled eggs and pancakes are his preferred breakfast foods (which is why I wanted him to learn to prepare these foods by himself; his breakfasts are more labor-intensive than I’m used to providing in the morning!).

When you teach kids to cook, there is a certain amount of waste as they learn the skills – cracking and whipping eggs, measuring ingredients, pouring appropriate amounts of milk and syrup, and attending the foods in the toaster or pan so that nothing gets burned. It takes a while before their motor control and judgment is developed enough to prevent a puddle of wasted syrup, dropped eggs, blackened pancakes or toast, or spilled milk.

And that’s how my dog Woody became, in just a few days, the most attentive kitchen monitor ever. He identified the sounds of Liam in the kitchen as the most reliable predictor of food scraps EVER, and would come running from a dead sleep on the couch at the sound of the cabinet where we keep the pans. He shadowed Liam around the kitchen, watching alertly for every bit of spilled or dropped food matter – and volunteering to lick the food scraps off the plates before they were put into the dishwasher.

The kitchen-haunting behavior hasn’t drifted; Woody isn’t following me or my husband around the kitchen; we are not reliable predictors of dropped food (though we often do scrape any healthy leftovers from our plates into the dog’s bowls). I think it’s the random yet reliable reinforcement of food scraps that came from Liam’s trials in food preparation that led to the rapid development of at least two new behaviors from Woody: a perfect “heel” around the kitchen and a solid sit-stay (sit-stay-stare?) while Liam ate.

Single-trial learning

Trainers sometimes talk about the “single-trial learning” that occurs when our dogs experience a powerful (and perhaps unexpected) reinforcement for their behavior. Some of the strongest examples of this are negative, as when a dog gets his tail accidentally stepped on or slammed in a door and thereafter avoids the site where this happened or the person who was nearby. Going to the groomer or vet’s office and having something unpleasant happen to them might also result in the instant development of fearful (or even aggressive) behaviors in those settings following a single painful or aversive experience.

Sometimes this one-trial learning causes a new and highly unwanted household behavior, such as when the dog follows the aroma of a roast cooling on the counter and has the opportunity to help himself to it, or finds a wealth of discarded food scraps in the garbage and learns to check the counter or garbage can for unattended food from then on. That’s more or less what happened with Woody’s new behavior of lurking, buzzard-like, in the kitchen when Liam is cooking or eating – the first broken egg he was called on to clean up taught him to pay rapt attention to every move Liam makes in the kitchen.

I should note here that I’m not terribly worried about the development of this lurking/mildly begging behavior because Liam doesn’t stay with us all that often – and because it’s kind of handy to have Woody clean up most of Liam’s spills! I only wish he liked orange juice as much as he liked pancake syrup!

But it occurs to me that if you wanted to teach a dog a simple new behavior, particularly one that requires only that he BE in a particular spot or position – such as staying on a mat just outside the kitchen while you cook, as perhaps the most useful example, using a spectacularly valuable (to him) food reward for putting himself in and staying in that spot would be a great way to go about it.

Pretty As A Picture

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There’s a Twitter hashtag that never fails to make me laugh: #BadStockPhotosOfMyJob. It’s where people share photos taken by some of the less imaginative photographers of the world – folks who were apparently given an assignment to take pictures of something that they knew little about, using models who know even less. To qualify for a comically bad stock photo, the photographer must employ the most obvious, ham-fisted symbols of the trade they are attempting to illustrate, so that the photo looks like a ridiculous – and completely inaccurate – caricature of a profession. 

For example, a #BadStockPhotoOfMyJob for a veterinarian (one of my favorite categories) must have the model wearing a stethoscope – otherwise, how would you possibly know she’s a vet? But to fully represent the genre – a really top-quality #BadStockPhotoOfMyJob – the model will be using the profession-identifying prop in a 100% inaccurate way. The beautiful, perfectly coiffed woman with the spotless white lab coat will be placing her stethoscope on the back of the dog’s neck, or some such nonsense. (Think I’m joking? Go search for #BadStockPhotosOfMyJob and “veterinarian”!) 

I was reminded of this when I went looking for nice stock photos of people walking with their dogs to illustrate Pat Miller’s article, 4 Dog Walk Approaches to Add Enjoyment. I was specifically looking for shots of people walking with their dogs in the various ways that Pat described – with dogs being encouraged to sniff things in an unhurried manner, or jump on or over obstacles (a “parkour walk”), and so on. But what I found in the stock houses were thousands of shots of people seemingly trying out for #BadStockPhotosOfMyJob as “person walking a dog.” In 99% of my search results, the model was spotless and had great hair, but was doing all sorts of things we don’t want people to do when they walk their dogs! 

If there is more than one person in the photo, the people will always be smiling fatuously at each other or at the sky, but never the dog. In about 80% of the photos of a dog in nature, the dog is pulling and/or on a retractable leash (and still the people will be paying zero attention to the dog). If the person is alone, they are likely on a cell phone. I swear that all the remaining photos feature tiny kids holding the leash of a giant dog that they could not possibly control if the dog pulled. I can assure you that I wasn’t laughing as I perused these stock photo sites!

Here’s a “training tip” from a photo editor: To take a really enjoyable walk with your dog, try to look like the picture you’d want to see: Use a nice loose “regular” leash, keep your eyes on your dog (no cell phone use!), and relax! No makeup or clean clothes are required.

Must (at Least) Like Dogs

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No, he doesn't look thrilled with being surrounded by puppies, as some kids would be. But he's there, and making good observations about the puppies' behavior.

My grandson Liam doesn’t really like dogs all that much. Maybe that’s too strong; he’s more or less indifferent to dogs, though this attitude can tip over into mild interest at times – mostly to humor me, I think. I think the genes for this indifference came straight from my husband, who has a friendly, “roommate” sort of relationship with my dogs, and tolerates my foster puppies, but who would probably be happier if I had no dogs at all. My husband’s son (my stepson) professes to like dogs more, but not enough to own one. (My own son is as dog-crazy as I am, and so is his fiancé, so I have high dog-hopes for my genetic grandchildren, if and when they may arrive.)

My husband and I are fortunate to have the opportunity to have Liam come from the East Coast and stay with us for a period of time each summer – and we pull out all the stops to make sure he has a memorable time. My husband built a massive treehouse for Liam when the boy was just six years old (he’s nine now). We have a trampoline, a super fun rope swing where Liam spends practically an hour a day, and last summer, we built a 150-foot zip line from the tree house to the other side of the pasture. We take him swimming someplace (various town pools, the nearby lake or river) almost every day, and we read together almost every night. We treasure every single day we can get with him.

Someone else here does, too: my almost-six-year-old dog Woody. In Liam’s memory, Woody has “always” been here, like the furniture. But in Woody’s mind, Liam is our most special visitor. When we came home from the airport with Liam earlier this summer, Woody practically levitated with joy, leaping around the kitchen and trying to smother the travel-weary boy with kisses. I know when Liam’s feet have hit the floor out of bed every morning, because I will see Woody grab a toy and race to Liam’s bedroom, greeting the boy with a strong tail-lashing and wiggles and moans of excitement before Liam can rub the sleep out of his eyes – that is, I saw this every morning until Woody started pushing Liam’s bedroom door open every night and joining him on his bed to sleep. Woody’s adoration of the boy is unconditional.

The funny thing is, Liam acts like he barely notices Woody, or, when he does notice the big dog’s excited greeting, he tends to push Woody away with an annoyed-sounding “Go AWAY, Woody!” In truth, I know he likes Woody and feels safe around him; if a movie we are watching gets at all scary, Liam will unconsciously slide off the couch and go sit next to Woody, or lay across Woody, on whatever couch Woody is currently on. And when we go swimming at the river, if he’s at all worried about the current, Liam will call Woody to his side, knowing that he can grab Woody’s tail and get a strong tow to shore with the muscular dog. But through most of the day he ignores Woody, and the fact that Woody is always following him around.

Reading time

I don’t usually foster dogs or puppies when Liam is here, because we often travel with him, but my shelter is full to the brim right now, and a young litter of eight puppies – and no mom – were brought in by someone who told the shelter he “found them under his house.” (I can’t tell you how many times I have heard this, and I always worry and fret about the poor mother dog, whether she was truly a stray or an owned dog, whose pups were presumably all stolen from her overnight.) This time, when the shelter called looking for fostering help, we had already done the travel we planned to do with Liam, so I said I’d take the pups until they were at the age of adoption. Besides, it was a good opportunity to model some community service to Liam – and to compel him to help with said service. He’s been helping me feed the puppies and herd them from place to place on the property, as the temperature requires (into my office for mealtimes and during the heat of the day, back outside into a pen under the big oak tree the rest of the day, when we’re not playing with them on the lawn). And he helped me round them up and get them in the car to take them back to the shelter for their first vaccinations and deworming.

Over a series of weeks, Liam has seen their development from barely conscious little grubs, who waded into the pans of formula and soaked kibble and had to be wiped clean afterward, to curious little explorers who can run in all directions and are learning to sit on cue for treats. Helping me with their care tasks, he’s made observations (“Gosh, we have to do EVERYTHING for them!”) that have led to good talks about the role of parents and other caretakers of small beings.

He’s seen with his own eyes how little ones can lack certain skills or cognitive abilities one day and suddenly have them the next. This came up as we discussed the pups’ early inability to recognize the hazard presented by edge of a concrete slab, about a foot off the ground; a week or so later, he realized that the puppies had developed the awareness of its danger, and they would avoid it – and a week later, he saw that the small “cliff” had morphed into a fun obstacle for the puppies to overcome, up and down, many times a day. (This led to some very pertinent talks about the development of good judgment as it relates to personal safety and gravity.)

He’s asked endless questions about “if they were humans, how old would they be NOW?” He’s obsessed with what age they will be when they are “older” developmentally than him – a fascinating thought!

I’m not sure that Liam will ever be a “dog person,” but I’m thrilled with the brain development and dawning social consciousness he’s gained from puppy care this summer. (And for his help!)

Many veterinary hospitals are suspending 24-hour emergency service

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When was the last time you needed to take a dog to the veterinarian after regular business hours – you know, in an emergency? In the past few years alone, I’ve taken dogs (foster and my own) to the closest hospital providing 24-hour emergency services at least a half dozen times, for a puppy with a suspected broken leg (it wasn’t), a puppy with an injured eye (remember Odin? He eventually had to have the eye removed, despite prompt and lengthy treatment), and several times for my dog Woody, who has had after-hours treatment for lots of things.

NOTHING happens to Woody during regular hours! He’s needed stitches (cut his back legs on something while skidding to a stop playing fetch), swallowed a small tennis ball (they made him vomit it up), had a suspected bloat (he had gotten into the foster Great Dane puppies’ food and ate way too much, but was able to start pooping and get relief while we waited for service), and one night, he tanked with a sudden fever and vomiting and diarrhea (not sure what that was, but he was hospitalized overnight on fluids and antibiotics and recovered).

It’s been a couple of years since he’s needed emergency care – KNOCK WOOD – but if you have an accident-prone dog like Woody, take note: Many veterinary hospitals who ordinarily provide 24-hour, emergency services have begun suspending those emergency hours and overnight service. In my area alone, the closest three hospitals I could take a dog or puppy to in the middle of the night have suspended overnight service indefinitely. All three are citing staffing shortages as the reason for this. If something happened to my dog tonight, I’d be driving about 80 miles to the closest emergency vet hospital still operating overnight – and, presumably, so would a lot of other people whose hospitals did the same. The domino effect here, alone, is terrifying to ponder, with so many cases flowing to a few concentrated emergency-care providers.

A banner on the website of my local emergency and specialty veterinary hospital.

I was first alerted to this by a friend who forwarded an email that one of her training clients had received from the emergency care provider in our area, stating that the hospital was closing at 9p.m., and no longer available for emergency care until 7 a.m. Since my trainer friend also provides boarding services, and needs to be able to take clients’ dogs for care in case of an emergency, she started calling around to see if the next closest emergency-care providers were available. That’s when she discovered that two more had followed suit and suspended their overnight emergency services. All three hospitals are citing staffing shortages as the reason for the suspension.

A post from the Facebook page of a veterinary hospital in Colorado, explaining why they are suspending emergency service temporarily.

Shortly after I learned this, I saw an article (linked here) posted on a friend’s Facebook page, discussing the suspension of emergency veterinary services by a BluePearl Pet Hospital in North Seattle. Several friends of my California friend commented that the same thing was happening in their towns – in Colorado, New Jersey, Oregon …

So, just a heads-up: It might be worth a call to whatever veterinary hospital you usually go to in case of an overnight emergency, to check to see if they are still providing service after regular business hours. If they are not, it’s better to know now, so you’d know where to go in case of an actual emergency without a last-minute panic.

And also: Has this happened in your area? If so, please post a comment here.

How to Remove a Tick from a Dog

How to Remove a Tick from a Dog
A neat trick to pick up the loose ticks in your dog’s coat is to go over his body with a masking tape roller.

It’s a good idea to check your dog carefully for ticks after every outing. You may find loose ticks crawling through your dog’s coat. You may find ticks that are attached – either recently attached skinny, flat ticks, or ticks that have been feeding for a while and are engorged, making them oval to round and fat. You may find the pre-adult ticks called nymphs, which are tiny, like the size of the head of a pin. Nymphs can be hard to see, are usually grayish in color, and frequently found on the face, having been picked up when the dog was nosing around in the grass or bushes.

How to Remove Tick From Dog

A neat trick to pick up the loose ticks in your dog’s coat is to go over his body with a masking tape roller. This works really well, especially when done as soon as you get home.

Attached ticks can be difficult to remove.  This is because their saliva contains a cement- like substance, which holds them securely in place. You can try to remove them with tweezers, but you need to try to grab as close to the skin as possible to avoid separating the body from the head. Pull firmly and steadily straight up. You can usually tell if you got the head out or not by examining the tick after removal. The head looks like a tiny pointer at the front.  You can also usually see the head in the skin if it’s left behind. It looks like a tiny black splinter. Picking at it gently with a clean needle, like you would a splinter, usually results in successful removal. If you can’t get the head out, don’t panic.  They will usually work their way out eventually without causing problems.

Using a Tick Twister tool is the easiest way to remove ticks with no concern for leaving the head behind. This inexpensive device has a groove that slides between the tick and your dog’s skin. Rotating or twisting the device cracks the tick’s cement anchor, allowing the tick to slide freely out all in one piece.

When removing engorged ticks, whatever you do, be careful not to squish the tick while it’s still attached.  This could result in a massive regurgitation from the tick into your dog, putting your dog at even greater risk of becoming infected with a tick-borne disease.

How to Kill a Tick?

Now that the ticks have been removed, what do you do with them? The quickest way to kill a tick before disposing of it is to soak it in isopropyl alcohol. You can alternatively drown ticks in soapy water, but it can take 48 hours for ticks to drown. Desiccation, which is basically extreme dehydration, kills ticks. So if you seal your tick in a plastic bag before disposal, it will eventually die from desiccation. Finally, the Center for Disease Control (CDC)’s website says it’s fine to flush them down the toilet.

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