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How to Take Your Dog’s Temperature

By
Dan Muse
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Knowing how to take your dog's temperature accurately is the first step to helping them when they are ill.
The gold standard method of taking a dog’s temperature is using a digital rectal thermometer. Credit: Standret | Getty Images

Seeing your dog looking unusually tired, restless, or uncomfortable understandably leaves you searching for answers on how to help. Knowing how to take your dog’s temperature is an important first step in helping her.

What Is a Normal Temperature for a Dog?

The normal body temperature for a dog is considered between 99.5 and 102.5 degrees Fahrenheit, according to the Merck Manual of Veterinary Medicine.

What Is the Best Way to Take a Dog’s Temperature?

You’ll most likely use a digital thermometer, which you can find online or at pet supply store for about $10 to $20, to take your dog’s temperature in one of these three ways:

  1. Rectal temperature: considered the most accurate and reliable method by veterinarians because it measures your dog’s core body temperature.
  2. Ear temperature: considered reasonably accurate but generally less precise than rectal temperatures due to variations in ear-canal anatomy, the presence of hair or wax, and positioning issues.
  3. Armpit temperature: measures the surface temperature, so it is consistently lower than the rectal temperature and is considered less reliable for core body temperature.

“A rectal temperature using a digital thermometer is considered the gold standard ,” according to Dr. Rebecca Greenstein, chief veterinarian of Kleinburg Veterinary Hospital in Ontario, Canada, and  veterinary medical advisor for Rover.com.

While you may be tempted to use an ear thermometer for convenience, they are often less reliable and can be difficult to use correctly.

How to Take Your Dog’s Rectal Temperature

To take your dog’s rectal temperature, in addition to a digital thermometer, you need a lubricant (like petroleum jelly), and a helper to keep your dog calm.

Follow these steps to take your dog’s rectal temperature:

  1. Apply a small amount of lubricant to the tip of the thermometer.
  2. Have your dog stand or lie on his side. Ideally, a helper can gently restrain him while offering reassurance and treats
  3. Gently lift your dog’s tail and insert the thermometer about one inch into the rectum.
  4. Hold the thermometer in place until it beeps, indicating a final reading.
  5. Remove the thermometer, clean it with rubbing alcohol or soap and water, and record the reading.

However, VCA Animal Hospitals warns, “If you feel stool in the rectum, try to place thermometer around the fecal matter rather than through it, to ensure an accurate reading. If the pet clamps their anal sphincter, do not force the thermometer into the rectum to avoid injury and pain for the pet.”

What a Dog’s High Temperature Means

“An elevated thermometer reading in an otherwise normal dog may be from anxiety, stress, panting, trembling/shaking, or hot weather. It can also be a sign of heatstroke, infection, inflammation, immune-mediated disease, or certain cancers,” according to Dr. Greenstein.

Remember that a fever is not an illness, but rather a symptom that your dog’s body is fighting something. As Dr. Greenstein notes, high temperatures can be caused by a variety of factors.

Common causes of a high body temperature in a dog include:

  • Infection: This is the most common cause. Infections could be a bacterial, viral, or fungal infection.
  • Inflammation: Conditions like pancreatitis or arthritis can cause a fever.
  • Toxins: Ingesting poisonous plants, certain human foods, or other toxic substances.
  • Vaccination: A mild, temporary fever is a common side effect of a recent vaccination.
  • Heatstroke: This is an emergency. A temperature of 106°F (41.1°C) or higher is critical and requires immediate cooling and veterinary care.

What a Low Temperature Means

While it’s less common than fever, a low temperature is just as serious. According to the American Red Cross, signs of hypothermia in dogs include body temperature below 98.5 degrees , decreased heart rate, dilated pupils, shivering, unconsciousness or coma, and weak pulse. While dogs can cope with small changes in body temperature, a large or sudden drop can be life-threatening. The serious effects of sustained hypothermia can include a slow, irregular heartbeat, kidney and gut damage, blood clots, and a reduced ability to fight infection.

If you suspect that your dog may be suffering from hypothermia, the Red Cross recommends that you follow these steps:

  1. Check your dog’s ABCs, (airway, breathing, and circulation and perform CPR as needed.
  2. Take your dog’s temperature; below 98.5 degrees indicates hypothermia.
  3. Wrap your dog in a blanket. Place water bottles (wrapped in towel) next to the dog.
  4. Take your dog to the veterinary hospital immediately.

When Should You Take Your Dog to the Vet?

You should contact your veterinarian immediately if your dog has a temperature of 104°F or higher or below 99°F, says Dr. Greenstein. However, beyond those extremes, “A lot of it depends on context. If your calm pet has a slightly elevated temperature [of 103.1°F ] or your usually excitable panting dog has a slightly decreased temperature [99.86°F], and is lethargic, not eating, having tummy upset or any unusual behavior, then I’d be concerned enough to have that patient seen by your family doctor.”

Remember that despite your concern, never give your dog Tylenol (acetaminophen) or other human fever reducers like ibuprofen. These are highly toxic to dogs and can be fatal.

As in all cases if you have concerns about your dog’s health or think he or she may be in danger, the best course of action is to contact your veterinarian for professional guidance.

Fact or Fiction: Can Dogs Have PTSD?

By
Joan Merriam
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1
Increasingly it seems that dogs can suffer PTSD after trauma like humans.
Similar to humans, PTSD in dogs can include symptoms such as anxiety, hypervigilance, avoidance, sleep disturbances, fear of being alone, and aggression. Credit: gabrielabertolini | Getty Images

The term canine post-traumatic stress disorder (C-PTSD) was first used by military veterinarians in 2010 to describe the aberrant behavior of some military working dogs after combat deployment. However, it was only applied to military working dogs. The term didn’t enter mainstream veterinary science until 2013, when Dr. Walter Burghardt described the issues faced by these dogs during a presentation at a joint meeting of the American College of Veterinary Behaviorists and the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior.

“We began identifying more and more afflicted dogs . . . that were failing in service; they were unable to do something they were trained to do and had always done successfully.” He went on to explain that the negative traits seen in some of these dogs paralleled those found in humans suffering from PTSD, and slowly, the term Canine PTSD joined the mainstream veterinary lexicon.

While there was some initial hesitancy among veterinary professionals to diagnose PTSD in dogs, data currently suggests that up to seventeen percent of all dogs are affected by C-PTSD. Factors contributing to the disorder can include military or police work, use as a bait or fighting dog, severe abuse, being raised in a puppy mill or living as a stray after being abandoned, and trauma from a natural or human-caused disaster.

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Identifying PTSD in Dogs

The clinical signs of C-PTSD are quite similar to many of those experienced by humans. As with humans, dogs can suffer from some or all in combination: chronic anxiety, hypervigilance, avoidance of certain people, places, or situations, sleep disturbances, fear of being alone, decreased interest in a favorite activity, or aggression.

In his book, Pets on the Couch, Dr. Nicolas Dodman relates the story of Elsa, a dog who was accidentally shot in the head by a Boston police officer. While Elsa miraculously survived, her mind didn’t heal as well as her body. She developed all the classic signs of PTSD: hypervigilance, avoidance of anything associated with the event (including police cars, police officers, sirens, and flashing lights), chronic nightmares and sleep disturbances, and severe anxiety. Although medication helped, her mind never completely recovered from that traumatic experience.

This episode convinced Dr. Dodman that PTSD was a bona fide canine condition, and he went on to treat many PTSD-like cases in his clinic at Tufts University and to teach his veterinary students about the reality of Canine PTSD.

Identifying PTSD in Dogs

The clinical signs of C-PTSD are quite similar to many of those experienced by humans. As with humans, dogs can suffer from some or all in combination: chronic anxiety, hypervigilance, avoidance of certain people, places, or situations, sleep disturbances, fear of being alone, decreased interest in a favorite activity, or aggression.

In his book, Pets on the Couch, Dr. Nicolas Dodman relates the story of Elsa, a dog who was accidentally shot in the head by a Boston police officer. While Elsa miraculously survived, her mind didn’t heal as well as her body. She developed all the classic signs of PTSD: hypervigilance, avoidance of anything associated with the event (including police cars, police officers, sirens, and flashing lights), chronic nightmares and sleep disturbances, and severe anxiety. Although medication helped, her mind never completely recovered from that traumatic experience.

This episode convinced Dr. Dodman that PTSD was a bona fide canine condition, and he went on to treat many PTSD-like cases in his clinic at Tufts University and to teach his veterinary students about the reality of Canine PTSD.

Specific Symptoms of Canine PTSD

Apart from the general behavioral indicators of PTSD in dogs, the disorder can have a whole host of symptoms and ramifications, many of which can appear alone or in concert with others. Behavioral signs include drastic personality or temperament changes, the sudden development of phobias and fears, aggression, fearful behavior in response to anything reminiscent of the trauma (such as loud noises, the sound of rushing water, doorbell ringing), decreased work performance, extreme timidity, avoidance of people, and excessive clinginess to their caregiver.

Physical symptoms can include chronic chewing or paw licking, trembling, excessive drooling, pacing, loose stools and involuntary urination, vomiting, lack of appetite, and extreme twitching during sleep.

The Role of Genetics in Canine PTSD

As is true with humans, numerous studies have shown that not all dogs develop PTSD in response to a traumatic or fearful event. This has led researchers to posit that there may be something in the dog’s individual genetic makeup that predisposes them to developing C-PTSD.  Over the last ten years, researchers have been studying the effects of genetic changes related to this disorder, and have uncovered numerous genes and epigentic influences that may make both humans and dogs susceptible to developing PTSD. Some genes have emerged as possible candidates in the pathophysiology of PTSD in dogs, but the results of studies have been inconclusive.

Science has proven that individual genes and genetic variants contribute to behavioral disorders like C-PTSD, and that canine response to traumatic events is the result of an interaction between both genes and environment. The question remains as to which of these has the greatest influence on a dog’s behavior, since most of the data are only correlations—and correlations can suggest potential causality, but are not synonymous with “cause” itself.

Treatments for PTSD in Dogs

A decade of work with working military dogs has shown that the key to successful treatment for C-PTSD is early intervention, and that both caregivers and veterinarians need to be educated on how to recognize the symptoms that dogs with C-PTSD tend to exhibit.

Part of the problem is that many of the symptoms of PTSD in dogs can be associated with other conditions such as separation and social anxiety, as well as medical issues. It’s for that reason that the first step should be a thorough veterinary workup to rule out any underlying disease or other pathology. According to experts, veterinarians find a contributing medical cause for the symptoms fifteen percent of the time.

Veterinarians and behaviorists have long been treating behavioral issues like generalized canine anxiety, compulsive disorder, separation anxiety, and noise and other phobias. In recent years, C-PTSD has been added to that group of issues, although treatment success has been more limited for the simple reason that, unlike other disorders, trauma actually disables normal brain functioning in both humans and dogs.

Treatment for all types of behavioral disorders, including PTSD in dogs, usually demands the help of a certified animal behaviorist. Most often, they are heavily focused on helping the dog feel safe in their environment, using a combination of desensitization and counterconditioning. Desensitization involves exposing the dog to very low levels of the feared stimulus, then increasing the exposure very gradually over time until the dog learns that the fearful thing no longer has any negative consequences. Going hand-in-hand with desensitization is counterconditioning, which focuses on changing the association of something fearful from negative to positive. For instance, if the dog is fearful of the sound of the doorbell, the caretaker gives the dog a high-value treat whenever the doorbell rings, helping him associate the sound with something desirable.

In the case of C-PTSD, experts often recommend that these behavioral treatments be supplemented with medication. Currently, Reconcile, and Sileo are the only FDA-approved anti-anxiety medications for use in dogs. Other medications that may be recommended for PTSD in dogs are all human medications, used off-label in dogs. They include Alprazolam, Trazadone, Clomipramine.

In the end, one thing is for certain: Canine PTSD, like its human equivalent, affects every aspect of a dog’s life. Researchers continue to search for an effective treatment, with an eye toward finding a cure to this debilitating, agonizing condition that has its roots in trauma, abuse, entrapment, and torture.

Why Is My Dog Coughing? Causes, When To Worry, and What To Do

By
Dr. Noelle Perry, DVM
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A dog coughing should be taken seriously and investigated.
A dog with kennel cough should have limited activity and should not associate with other dogs until at least two weeks after recovery. Credit: Felix Andres Montana Otalora | Getty Images

As I listened to my dog cough the other night, I found myself shifting out of my logical veterinarian mindset and into my role as pet parent. Nobody likes it when their fur baby is not feeling 100%, including us veterinarians. When it does happen, I do try to remind myself that it is an opportunity to reacquaint myself with what it feels like to be on the other side of the exam table. Having a coughing dog is a great example of this because when there is a kennel-cough outbreak in the area, my veterinary hospital fields a lot of questions.

However, remember that kennel cough isn’t the only reason dogs cough. Heart disease and heartworms can also make a dog cough.

Pneumonia, which involves the lung more than the trachea/bronchi, can cause coughing but is more likely to be a softer, moist cough than a honking cough. Dogs with pneumonia often feel sicker. They are more likely to be febrile, lethargic, and expend more respiratory effort to breathe.

Other causes of coughing include collapsing trachea, allergies, internal parasites, irritants, and neoplasia.

But, kennel cough does have a classic cough that sounds very much like a honking goose. The cough is loud, dry, and harsh. Concerned pet parents often describe the cough as sounding like their dog has something lodged in his throat. If your dog was totally fine and had something in his mouth right before sudden onset significant coughing/gagging began, then an object/food in her airway (or esophagus) is more of a possibility than if onset of coughing was more gradual.

So, what do you do when you suspect your dog has kennel cough?

  • Don’t panic! Remember it is usually self-limiting and will clear on its own.
  • Keep all the dogs in your household home (even if they haven’t started coughing) and don’t return them to activities until two weeks past cough resolution.
  • Consult your veterinary team to determine if your pet needs to be seen for evaluation.
  • Monitor all dogs but especially those that might be at higher risk for complications (very young, very old, immuno-compromised, underlying health issue) for signs of more severe illness.
  • Rest your dog (keeping her calm and skipping high energy activities can help limit the coughing).
  • Get a video of your dog coughing at home that you can share with your veterinary team if needed.
  • If you are taking your dog to the veterinarian, notify the office of your arrival before bringing your pet inside the building, as they may have special instructions to limit contact with other pets in the waiting room.

What Is Kennel Cough? How it Spreads and How To Recognize It

Kennel cough is the common name for a highly contagious respiratory illness of dogs also known as infectious tracheobronchitis and canine infectious respiratory disease complex (CIRDC). Most commonly it presents as a dog that is still active but has a honking cough, often with a gag at the end of the coughing spell. If the gag is significant enough sometimes the dog will bring up phlegm or some of their most recent meal.

In otherwise healthy pets, most of the time it is an illness that is more annoying than life-threatening. When I say annoying, I mean both for the dog (because we all know coughing is not fun) and for the pet parent who empathizes with the dog and may experience some additional inconvenience such as cleaning up the phlegm/stomach contents that the dog gags up or disruption to plans.

Because kennel cough is highly contagious and spread through aerosol, direct contact, or contact with contaminated objects, other challenges for the pet parent can include having the illness go through all the dogs in the house one by one or having make short notice pet care arrangements because the dog can’t attend day care, grooming, or boarding facilities while contagious. Dogs should also not frequent dog parks, attend any dog competitions or go with their pet parents to visit households with other dogs.

Humans who are in contact with kennel-cough dogs should take care to wash hands thoroughly, change shoes, and clothes before being around other dogs so as not to spread the illness. There should be no sharing of toys or bowls although if in the same household there is probably already so much direct contact between family dogs that this may be a moot point.

As the name suggests, kennel cough most commonly spreads when a group of dogs are in common space together indoors such as in a boarding or daycare setting. Dog shows, dog performance events, or animal shelters can be another location of common spread because pets are coming together from many different areas and spending time in relative proximity to each other. It only takes a single dog that is infected with kennel cough (and possibly not even showing signs yet) to infect another dog.

Understanding the Kennel Cough Vaccine: What it Protects Against and its Limitations

The kennel cough vaccine usually starts with Bordetella bronchiseptica (bacteria) and often includes parainfluenza with or without adenovirus, but they are not the only infectious agents that cause these symptoms. If you have ever wondered why this vaccine is commonly given intranasally, it is because it allows not just for systemic antibodies but also antibodies that stay in the respiratory tract (secretory IgA) where they can act as a first line of defense. There is also a separate vaccine for two different strains of canine influenza (another virus that can often cause the same symptoms).

Coughing and Gagging in Dogs: What Does It Mean?

“Why is my dog coughing from kennel cough when I got her vaccinated?” is one of the most common questions I get asked when I diagnose a dog with kennel cough. The reality is that kennel-cough symptoms can be caused by many different bacteria and viruses, and sometimes they can appear in combination. This is why a more recent medical term for kennel cough is CIRDC.

Kennel cough is most often diagnosed by physical exam and patient history. A common physical exam finding is increased tracheal sensitivity on palpation of the trachea. For cooperative dogs, this is a quick easy thing for your veterinarian to check as part of your dog’s exam because they can reproduce the coughing in the exam room to hear it for themselves.

Dogs can have tracheal sensitivity for other reasons so the veterinarian must consider the history and entire “picture” the dog presents but an absence of tracheal sensitivity typically moves kennel cough down my list. Most commonly the dog has a history of boarding, daycare, dog park (yes, it can spread outdoors), recent grooming, being in a shelter, or being exposed to another dog that has been one of these places. Sometime the infected dog isn’t coughing because she hasn’t started showing symptoms or she could have a subclinical case and appear asymptomatic.

Diagnosing Kennel Cough: Why It’s Not Always Straightforward

It is possible to test for the offending infectious agent(s) but getting a conclusive diagnosis can be challenging. The samples usually need to be collected within the first couple of days of onset of symptoms. Many dogs don’t even see the veterinarian that early in their illness. Also, sample collection involves swabbing the pharynx (throat), nasal passage, and/or conjunctival area of the eye. We have probably all had enough COVID testing swabs done on ourselves by this point to understand that many dogs will object to this process and could requite mild sedation to collect samples.

Add on top of these factors that the test itself is not inexpensive, takes several days to return results, and may not produce a diagnosis. Reasons for not identifying an organism on the respiratory panel can include sample collection issues (timing, uncooperative patient) or a causative agent not severe enough/not studied enough to be included in the panel. All this is in the face of an illness that is generally self-limiting. This means a lot of pet parents will opt not to test. That doesn’t necessarily mean it is never worth testing, it just means one should have proper expectations.

In addition to the physical exam and patient history, additional diagnostics such as X-rays, complete blood count, heartworm testing, and a fecal exam may help with diagnosing the cause of a cough.

Caring for a Dog with Kennel Cough: Home Management and When To Call the Vet

The good news is most dogs get better from kennel cough on their own with just a little time and TLC. Most of them don’t need antibiotics (remember, it is often viral, which antibiotics won’t help). Limiting high-energy activity can help because often the more excited the dog, the more they cough.

If the coughing is severe, your dog may need medication or treatment to help manage the cough either through suppressing the cough or decreasing the inflammation. The bad news is your dog needs to not go anywhere where she could infect other dogs for about two weeks AFTER symptoms resolve and the dog is off medication. It also means you should take appropriate precautions if you are in contact with any other dogs when you leave the house. As I mentioned earlier, this involves things like changing clothes/shoes and handwashing.

The Best Black Friday Deals for Dogs 2025

By
Jae Thomas, CPDT-KA
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Dog black Friday deals offer you the chance to save on the dog gear you use every day.
From treats to dog beds, we tracked down some of the Best Black Friday deals for dogs on the internet. Credit: Whole Dog Journal Image Composite | Best Friends By Sheri | Earth Rated | Native Pet | OraVet | Outward Hound | Pawstruck | Woof

The best dog Black Friday deals are the sales on products you’d buy regardless of a deal. Think dog food, dog treats, poop bags, and grooming products. It’s also a good time to grab a new dog bed if your pup’s bed is getting less supportive and a great time to try out new enrichment toys at a discount.

Amazon is featuring a Black Friday week with tons of dog Black Friday deals already live. The Chewy Black Friday sale features up to 40% off dog beds, dog food, dog treats, dog toys, and more. Chewy is also running a new customer promo simultaneously: Spend $49+ and you’ll score a $20 eGift Card and free shipping with code: WELCOME.

Check out all our favorite Black Friday deals for dogs that are already live including many products we’ve hands-on tested over the last year.

Whole Dog Journal is reader-supported. If you purchase through links on our site we may earn a commission. Whole Dog Journal does not accept money for its food and product reviews.

Best Black Friday Dog Treat and Chew Deal: Pawstruck All-Natural 12″ Bully Sticks for Dogs — $36.79 $45.99 (save 20%)

Chews like bully sticks are one of the many black Friday dog deals to be had.
If your dog likes to chew, Pawstruck’s All Natural Bully Sticks are a good option for dogs who like to chew—and they’re on sale this Black Friday. Credit: Jae Thomas

Bully sticks are my number one go-to when it comes to buying dog products during Black Friday. While they’re a great single-ingredient pick for a dog chew bone, they’re also quite expensive at regular price, with some brands reaching up to $10 per stick. This Pawstruck pack is an option I buy frequently when they’re on sale, and they’re large, don’t splinter or break, and don’t smell horrendous like some bully sticks do.

More Black Friday Dog Treat and Chew Deals

Best Black Friday Dog Food Topper and Supplement Deal: Native Pet Pumpkin Powder — $29.99 $39.99 (save 25%)

Dog black Friday deals offer a chance to save on Dog food toppers.
This Black Friday deal for dogs is a great way to add some extra fiber to your pup’s meal without having to find shelf space for canned pumpkin. Credit: Jae Thomas

I find this pumpkin powder much more convenient to add to my dogs’ food than canned pumpkin when they have minor upset tummies or just need a little fiber to help with digestion. Instead of having to store whole cans of pumpkin (and make sure you use an entire can before it goes bad), this handy supplement comes in a powder form with an included scoop.

More Black Friday Dog Food Topper and Supplement Deals

Best Black Friday Dog Grooming Deal: Earth Rated Pet Wipes 400 count — $29.72 $34.99 (save 20%)

Pet wipes are a great dog grooming option, and there are savings to be had on black Friday.
On sale this Black Friday, these pet wipes from Earth Rated help make between-bath cleanups easy. Credit: Jae Thomas

The white tea and basil scent of our best tested dog grooming wipes are ideal for wiping paws after muddy walks, wiping butts, and giving your dog’s coat a refresh between baths. This 400-count bundle of Earth Rated’s fan-favorite dog wipes will keep you stocked up for a few months and will save you 20% on the retail price.

More Black Friday Dog Grooming Deals

Best Black Friday Dog Enrichment toy deal: Woof Pupsicle — $15.99 $19.99 (save 20%)

A homemade pupsicle is a great treat all year round.
Here at WDJ, the Woof Pupsicle has kept many of our dogs entertained and engaged. Credit: Jae Thomas

Named a pick for Whole Dog Journal’s Gear of the Year for 2025, the Woof Pupsicle is a genius enrichment training toy. Opt for Woof’s pre-made Pupsicle pops or make your own with the brand’s Pupsicle mold for a little more control over your dog’s treats. This long-lasting enrichment toy keeps my two dogs entertained for up to an hour at a time, and I love that it’s easy to fill and clean.

More Black Friday Dog Enrichment Toy Deals

Best Black Friday Dog Toy Deal: Original Snuggle Puppy — $33.96 $39.95 (save 15%)

The Original Snuggle Puppy was one of the first products I brought home when I got my Collie puppy in 2023, and it’s still one of her favorite toys. This cute plush toy has an internal “beating heart” mechanism that helps to soothe puppies and make it feel like they’re still with their mom and littermates. It also seems to have a calming effect on adult dogs.

I love that the internal heartbeat pack is removable and the puppy can be machine washed. Two years later, the batteries in the heartbeat are still kicking, too.

More Black Friday Dog Toy Deals

Best Black Friday Dog Bed Deal: Best Friends by Sheri The Original Calming Shag Fur Donut Cuddler — $23.99 $31.99 (save 25%)

Dog beds are a place to relax all year round.
If your dog likes having a cozy place to sleep, this Black Friday deal makes getting a new bed for her even more affordable. Credit: Jae Thomas

My dogs are cozy fanatics. They’re both known for burrowing under blankets, sitting on top of a pillow stack, and curling up into the tiniest donuts you’ve ever seen. The Best Friends by Sheri donut bed is one of their favorite places to lounge in the whole house and it’s sometimes difficult to get my pups out of it.

This circular bolster bed was a top pick in our Best Washable Dog Beds guide, is ideal for dogs who sleep curled up, and has a calming effect for dogs who like to burrow or nest. The cover is fully machine washable.

More Black Friday Dog Bed Deals

More Black Friday Dog Deals

Best Black Friday Dog Bowl Deals

Best Black Friday Dog DNA Kit Deals

Best Black Friday Dog Poop Bag Deals

Best Black Friday Pet Tech Deals (Dog Cameras and GPS Trackers)

Best Black Friday Dog Collar Deals

Best Black Friday Dog Hair Removal Deals

Laser Pointer Syndrome in Dogs

By
Debby McMullen, CDBC
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0
Laser pointer syndrome in dogs is an unhealthy behavior that can be trigged by playing with a laser pointer.
Avoid playing laser pointer with your dog. Instead, use flying discs or other toys that give the dog a natural closing. He caught the disc! It didn’t just disappear. Credit: Peter Cade | Getty Images

Oh, no, did you inadvertently create an OCD-like behavior in your dog by playing with laser pointers? Now that your dog is obsessed with that little red dot, are you wondering how you can undo what you did?

Laser pointer syndrome in dogs starts like an easy game to play with your dog. You can stay in a relaxed position while aiming a light pointer all over the place for your dog to chase. He gets exercise, has fun, and you are enjoying the scene. Sounds like a win-win, right? Nope.

Chasing a laser pointer is prey drive without the prey. There is no end to this game. Closure is incomplete and intense frustration often sets in. With laser pointers, the dog is left looking for the light everywhere. This can lead to other OCD type behaviors such as chasing sunbeams that are coming through your windows. I know of one dog who went wild when his owners got out aluminum foil because the sunlight was shining through the kitchen window and hit the foil.

Symptoms of laser pointer syndrome in dogs include:

  • Chasing sunbeams/lights on the wall/reflections caused by various light sources
  • Searching constantly for wherever the dog last saw the dot of the pointer
  • Being so obsessed with chasing lights/shadows that nothing else matters
  • Spinning in circles with frustration

How to Reverse Laser Pointer Syndrome in Dogs

Stop playing it! Immediately. Divert your dog’s attention with other games and activities. Learn to play a dog sport (scent work and Barn Hunt are great ideas for these dogs), get a flirt pole, carefully play tug, regular sniffing walks, do daily training with manners/handling/trick cues, give the dog appropriate toys and chews, and include plenty of positive interaction with the humans in your dog’s life. But do not EVER pick up the laser pointer again. You need to patiently engage your dog in other activities.

Learning how to effectively redirect your dog’s energies into a much more productive activity is the No. 1 priority. How to effectively redirect your dog depends on the individual dog, but active interests that fulfill your dog’s needs are important.

Note: If your dog has extreme laser pointer syndrome, you may need professional intervention. This is vital if your dog regularly ignores basic needs such as meals and other important self-care necessities.  Your dog’s physical and mental survival depend on a quick intervention when things have reached this point. After veterinary intervention, schedule an appointment with a well-qualified rewards-based dog behavior consultant who can work hand in hand with your veterinarian to assure that your dog can learn coping mechanisms to redirect these obsessions.

It’s Prey Drive Without the Prey

Real prey drive with dogs has an end game. Whether with actual prey such as squirrels or other wildlife, the goal is the catch. Your dogs may not catch the squirrel, but the game has clear parameters, and the possibility is there. The dogs dream of the day that they complete that sequence. The same theory applies to other games of prey such as playing with a flirt pole or even playing catch.  In these games, the completion is there. There is satisfaction, although there are some OCD concerns with some dogs to be aware of when capturing the prey is present. Properly done, the dog can let the game go when it ends for the moment.

Remember that there’s nothing wrong with getting assistance from a behavior professional to help with teaching your dog coping skills so that they are more able to effectively self-sooth will complete the puzzle.

IMHA in Dogs Is Often Deadly

By
Dr. Debra M. Eldredge, DVM
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0
Immune-mediated hemolytic anemia, or IMHA in dogs.
Blood will be drawn from your dog to verify that the dog has IMHA. Credit: Westend61 | Getty Images

Immune-mediated hemolytic anemia (IMHA) is a potentially deadly condition in dogs. You may also see it as autoimmune hemolytic anemia (AIHA) or autoimmune anemia. Regardless of what you call it, in this disease involves the destruction of red blood cells by your dog’s own immune system gone rogue.

Your dog’s red blood cells are responsible for transporting nutrients and oxygen to cells throughout the body, as well as picking up carbon dioxide, waste products including dead or damaged cells, and toxins. Your dog needs adequate red blood cells to live.

Normally, your dog’s body has a nice balance between new red blood cells being manufactured in the spleen and bone marrow and worn out or damaged cells being removed by the spleen. When the immune system destroys red blood cells faster than they are produced, your dog will become anemic.

What Causes IMHA in Dogs?

Unfortunately, the most common causes idiopathic, which means that the reason for the disease is never determined. American Cocker Spaniels have the highest risk of all breeds, which suggests a genetic predisposition.

Potential secondary causes abound, with tick-borne diseases at the head the list, followed by drug and vaccine reactions. Other potential causes include bee stings, snake bites, viruses, bacteria, and even cancer.

Signs of IMHA in Dogs

Any of the signs listed below justify a trip to the veterinary clinic. While IMHA can be treated, it has a high mortality rate. The sooner the treatment starts, the better the chance for a successful outcome.

Clinical signs you may notice include:

  • Weakness
  • Lethargy
  • Pale gums
  • Jaundice (ears, gums, groin)
  • Small pinprick hemorrhages in the groin (called petechia)
  • Nose bleeds
  • Rapid breathing
  • Racing heartbeat

Treatment for IMHA in Dogs

Some quick bloodwork will be done to verify that the problem is IMHA, and then treatment will start. At a minimum, most dogs will require intravenous (IV) fluids and some corticosteroids, and/or immunomodulating drugs. That generally means prednisone and a medication like cyclosporine. Expect your dog to spend some days in the hospital. Blood transfusions are frequently required, often more than one. In severe cases, stem cell therapy has been tried.

If an underlying cause is identified, treatment is aimed at clearing that up as well as treating the immediate symptoms. Sadly, even with rapid treatment, up to 50% to 70% of dogs will die. For those dogs who get released from the hospital, there is a relapse rate of about 15%. Most dogs will remain on at least some medications for life. Frequent rechecks are important to try and catch any relapse early on.

Can You Prevent IMHA in Dogs?

There is no real way to prevent IMHA other than regular preventive care, avoiding parasites like ticks, trying to avoid bees and snakes, and doing regular physical examinations to catch any cancers as soon as possible.

Know your dog’s family health history. For example, if littermates have had drug reactions, avoid those medications for your dog. Astute observation by you for any symptoms and responding right away increases your dog’s odds for a positive outcome.

Yes, Your Dog May Need Dental Braces

By
Kate Basedow, LVT
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0
Dog braces for teeth can help correct dental malocclusions that can impact a dog's health.
Malocclusion, or misaligned teeth, like on this small dog with an underbite can require dental braces so the dog can eat and drink comfortably. Credit: Oksana Chaun | Getty Images

Dog braces for teeth are all about comfort and function. After all, your dog isn’t going to get teased about a crooked smile on her school photos. Teeth slightly out of alignment usually have no impact on your dog’s quality of life, so these teeth can be left alone. Braces come into play if one or more wonky teeth are either preventing her from eating normally or are damaging the soft tissues in her mouth and causing pain.

Situations that might call for braces for dog teeth include:

  • Lance teeth, or the upper canines pointing forward
  • Base-narrow lower canines stabbing into the roof of the mouth
  • Severe overbite causing teeth to grind against each other
  • Crowding pushing teeth out of position
  • Retained deciduous (baby) teeth causing adult teeth to be misaligned
  • Major dental or jaw surgery after a traumatic injury or an oral cancer diagnosis

If your dog has one of these issues, she may be sensitive about having her head touched, chew oddly, avoid hard foods, or leave blood in her water bowl and on toys and chews. But many dogs do not give obvious indications of oral discomfort.

Planning Dog Braces and Cost

Issues with how your dog’s teeth fit together (called “occlusion”), usually show up as her adult teeth are erupting. Dogs get their adult teeth between 4 and 6 months of age. Your veterinarian will check the teeth during routine visits, but if you have concerns, snap a photo and send it over. Some breeders are also knowledgeable and comfortable evaluating occlusion.

If your dog has problematic teeth coming in at bad angles, the best time to pursue braces is during or soon after the eruption of her adult teeth. Just like in humans, young jaws are easier to guide into place. Adult dogs may also benefit from braces, but the process will take longer.

In most cases, your vet will refer your pup to a veterinary dentist for braces. These procedures require some specialized equipment and extra know-how to ensure success.

Expect a series of visits over at least four to six weeks, possibly several months. The biggest appointment is the application of the braces. Your dog will be put under anesthesia and have full-mouth dental X-rays so the dentist can evaluate all the tooth roots and make the best plan for your pup. Then the teeth will be cleaned and the braces applied.

Your pup will need rechecks each week or every other week to ensure that the braces have stayed in place and to adjust the pressure as needed. These visits are much shorter and can usually be done with your dog awake.

Once the teeth are in their correct position, your dog will go under anesthesia again to have the braces removed.

The cost of dog braces for teeth can range from $1,500 to $5,000 or more, depending on your location and your dog’s unique case. Pet health insurance may cover the cost but check your plan carefully.

Note: Altering your dog’s teeth makes her ineligible to compete in conformation dog shows. Most dental misalignments are inherited, so breeding your dog is not recommended whether she has braces to correct the issue or not.

Types of Dog Braces

Braces are most used for canine teeth. These big teeth have long roots that extend deep into the jawbones, giving them strength and making them critical anchors for the rest of the mouth.

When your dog’s mouth is closed, the bottom canines should fit just ahead of the upper canines and behind the third incisors. If everything is aligned properly, none of the three teeth should wear on each other, and none should poke into the soft tissues of the mouth.

The type of defect in the mouth will determine which type of braces is necessary.

Masal Chain Appliance for Dogs

The masal chain appliance is used when an upper canine tooth is angled forward, blocking the space where the lower canine should fit. The goal is to tip the point of the upper canine backward, restoring the gap.

Anchors or “buttons” are fixed to the rear molars and to the tip of the offending canine tooth. Then they are connected by a sturdy elastic chain that applies pressure. Over time, the chain can be adjusted and tightened to continue shifting the canine into its proper position.

Once proper occlusion has been restored, the braces can be removed.

Crown Extensions for Dogs

Crown extensions are used when the bottom canine teeth are linguoverted or shifted closer to the tongue. This is also called “base-narrow” canines, because the bottom canines are closer together than they should be. Because the bottom canines point straight up, linguoversion makes the points no longer fit into the gap between the upper teeth and instead poke directly into the roof of the mouth. These open wounds struggle to heal because the teeth are constantly reopening them.

The goal of crown extensions is to angle the lower canines so that they are directed into the gap between the upper third incisor and upper canine. A long acrylic cap is placed over the lower canine so that it extends the tooth up through the gap. This creates a tube to guide the tooth as it erupts, directing it into the correct position. This technique also helps to correct mild issues with the upper canine pointing too far forward.

Inclined Plane in Dogs

An inclined plane is also used for base-narrow teeth where the lower canines are stabbing into the roof of the mouth. For this technique, acrylic is molded around the upper teeth with a ramp that guides the lower canine into proper position when the dog bites down.

The inclined plane is sturdier than crown extensions but will not correct any alignment issues with the upper canine.

Caring for a Dog with Braces

Your dog will need some extra home dental care while she has braces. To keep the braces clean, you will need to brush the teeth daily with dog-safe toothpaste and flush the mouth with a dog-safe oral antiseptic mouthwash provided by the veterinary dentist.

Chewing on bones and hard toys will likely be off-limits, and some dogs may need to eat soft food until the braces are off.

Follow the instructions from your dog’s dentist carefully and keep all recheck appointments to ensure success. Once your dog’s teeth have been corrected, additional care is minimal. Thanks to the interlocking nature of dog teeth, no retainer is necessary!

Alternatives to Dog Braces for Teeth

If braces are not an option or if your dog only has a mild malocclusion, there are other ways to correct tooth position.

  • Encourage your dog to bite down on a firm rubber ball, such as a lacrosse ball, frequently to encourage proper tooth position. This can help to correct teeth as they erupt. (Do not allow the dog to chew the ball or play with a lacrosse ball, as they are a huge chocking hazard.)
  • Crown amputation, crown reduction, and vital pulp therapy with restoration are all procedures where a wayward tooth is filed down so it can no longer cause damage and then be covered with a filling. The restored tooth will need to be monitored closely for the rest of your dog’s life.
  • Extraction completely removes the offending tooth. This can be done by most veterinarians, but removing a healthy tooth is an invasive and sometimes difficult procedure.

Braces are the ideal option when practical because they preserve the tooth while still correcting harmful malocclusion.

What Is a Sebaceous Cyst or Adenoma on a Dog?

By
Dr. Debra M. Eldredge, DVM
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Adenoma or sebaceous cysts on dogs are largely harmless is unsightly bumps on your dog's skin.
Any growth near your dog’s eye should be examined by a veterinarian. If this sebaceous cyst was anywhere else on this dog, the owner could just watch for irritation. Credit: Mary Swift | Getty Images

It’s not uncommon to come across a lobulated pink or white growth on your dog’s skin, especially if he’s older. These bumps might be on his face, legs, or body. When you touch them, they may feel a bit oily and may even have a slight oily discharge.

These are likely sebaceous adenomas, which are benign tumors of the sebaceous (oil) glands of the skin. They range in size from tiny to about an inch in diameter.

These benign growths are most often found on middle-aged or senior dogs. Cocker Spaniels, Poodles, Miniature Schnauzers, and terrier breeds are most often affected. It’s wise to ask your veterinarian to look at any new growths, of course, but unless they look irritated, red, are bleeding, or are in an area that’s causing the dog to lick or chew at it, it can usually wait till your next visit.

Sebaceous Cysts in Dogs

Sebaceous cysts tend to be singular, smooth, and round. They are white or light pink, like sebaceous adenomas, they also may appear dark or pigmented. They may be found anywhere on the body, but the head is a common site. Some may even form along eyelids, where the eyelash follicles are. Schnauzers are often affected by sebaceous cysts.

These cysts occur near sebaceous glands in the skin, which are full of sebum, an oily substance that helps to lubricate and protect the skin. If a sebaceous gland becomes blocked, a cyst can form. The contained sebum becomes thicker and, if the cyst is opened, the contents are grayish and thick (like toothpaste).

Diagnosing Growths on a Dog

Diagnosis of both types of growth is generally done via observation. If your veterinarian has any concern, she may do a fine-needle aspiration to look at the cells under a microscope. Although rare, removal via biopsy is done with laboratory evaluation by a pathologist.

While both conditions may be unsightly, they usually do not present a serious health problem. If the cyst or adenoma ruptures, secondary bacterial skin infections may occur. Topical treatment such as cleaning with antibacterial solutions or wipes is generally all that is needed.

Removing Skin Bumps on a Dog

Most dogs ignore these cysts and adenomas unless one gets injured. At that point, the dog may lick or chew on the site. (It can be a challenge for groomers to avoid clipping these growths on dogs who have a lot of them.)

If your dog is chewing or licking at any sebaceous cysts or adenomas, you may choose to have them surgically removed. Depending on the size and location of the growth, this might be done by electrocautery, or it might require surgery. Recovery is rapid, but you will need to keep your dog from licking at the healing site.

Preventing Canine Skin Growths

There is no set way to prevent sebaceous cysts and adenomas. Bathing predisposed dogs with an anti-seborrhea shampoo may help, especially for cyst development. Keeping your dog clean and well-groomed may help. Diet has not been shown to be a factor.

Just remember that, while they may be unsightly, these growths are benign, which should be a relief to you!

What Is Discospondylitis in Dogs?

By
Kate Basedow, LVT
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Discospondylitis in dogs is a bacterial infection that affects the vertebrae and discs of the spine.
Although discospondylitis is usually found in large and giant breed dogs, like these Great Danes, it can occur in any dog and even humans. Credit: GoDogPhoto | Getty Images

Discospondylitis in dogs occurs when a bacterial or fungal infection travels to the spine. The infection might just be at one point in the spine or could be at multiple spots at once. Note: Discospondylitis is different from spondylosis in dogs. While discospondylitis is an infection, spondylosis is a degenerative disorder of the bones in the spine.

 

How Discospondylitis Happens

Usually, the bacteria or fungi access the dog’s spinal discs via the bloodstream. An infection starts somewhere else in the body, such as in the mouth, on the skin, or in the urinary tract, and then the infectious agents hitch a ride in the blood. As blood circulates through the body, the bacteria or fungi may stop in the spinal discs and start up a new infection there.

Another cause of discospondylitis is a migrating foreign body, such as a grass awn or foxtail. These barbed awns can enter the body a variety of ways and then slowly move through tissue. The trail left behind is the perfect opportunity for infectious pathogens to follow along.

The third way that a dog can develop discospondylitis is after trauma to the back, such as a bite wound, getting hit by a car, or in rare cases secondary to back surgery.

Who’s at Risk?

Any dog can get discospondylitis, but large and giant breeds are the most often affected. Examples include the Great Dane, German Shepherd Dog, Boxer, Rottweiler, Doberman, and English Bulldog.

Chronic skin infections, having an immune system disorder, or being on immunosuppressive medications may predispose a dog to spinal infection.

What Discospondylitis in Dogs Looks Like

The symptoms of discospondylitis are non-specific, which means they can look like a variety of injuries and illnesses. Possible symptoms include:

  • Pain
  • Stiffness
  • Reluctance to move
  • Avoidance of jumping and/or stairs
  • Flinching when touched
  • Fever
  • Poor appetite
  • Weight loss
  • Lethargy

If the infection has caused the disc to swell and put pressure on the spinal cord, the dog may also have neurological deficits such as stumbling or dragging one or more paws. Over time this can progress to limb weakness, muscle loss, and even paralysis.

Exact symptoms can also vary depending on the location of the infection site(s). Discospondylitis most commonly occurs in the thoracic and lumbar spine regions along the dog’s back.

Getting a Diagnosis

Diagnosing discospondylitis in dogs can take a while. The same symptoms can result from a variety of conditions, which means your vet needs to parse through all the potential causes.

X-rays are the simplest way to make a diagnosis. The catch is that it takes three to six weeks after symptoms start for bony changes to be visible on an X-ray. It may take a couple rounds of X-rays to see evidence of discospondylitis.

Advanced imaging such as myelography, CT scan, MRI, or bone scintigraphy can pick up signs of discospondylitis sooner. These procedures usually require a trip to a specialist.

Once discospondylitis is on your veterinarian’s radar, the next step is to identify the bacteria or fungus causing the infection. Your veterinarian may take blood and urine samples to culture, and will test for brucellosis. In some cases, a spinal tap to take a sample of cerebral spinal fluid may be necessary. This can be done under anesthesia by a specialist.

Rarely, the infected disc itself may be cultured. This requires surgery done by a specialist and is usually avoided because of how invasive it is.

Treatment

Treatment for discospondylitis often takes six to 12 months to clear the infection. Your dog will receive an antibiotic or antifungal medication depending on the type of infection, with the exact medication determined by the culture and sensitivity testing. Fungal infections are generally more difficult to eradicate than bacteria.

Your dog may also receive pain meds to keep him comfortable.

In some cases, it may be necessary to do surgery to debride damaged tissue, flush out the area, and relieve pressure on the spinal cord. This procedure should be done by a board-certified specialist.

Most dogs show improvement within two weeks of starting treatment. If your dog does not improve at that time, your vet will reassess and determine a new plan. Serial X-rays can be helpful to track healing of the bones in the spine over time.

Bacterial discospondylitis has the best prognosis. These dogs may relapse during the treatment period, but usually the infection can be fully treated.

Fungal discospondylitis has a more guarded prognosis. Many dogs respond to treatment, but others do not. Some dogs require lifelong medication to control symptoms and keep them comfortable.

Discospondylitis due to the bacterial infection brucellosis cannot be cured. This disease requires lifelong medication and careful management because it can be passed to humans and other dogs.

For all types of infection, severe neurological symptoms indicate a worse prognosis.

If your dog is diagnosed with discospondylitis, it is important to be diligent with medications for the full treatment period. Six to 12 months is a long time to give meds, but if it can get your dog back to his normal life, it is worth it!

How To Travel With Your Dog

By
Jae Thomas, CPDT-KA
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2
Travel with your dog in a care is best done with your dog safely secured to protect them, and prevent distraction.
From packing lists to car safety, it helps to be prepared before traveling with your dog. Credit: Jae Thomas

The holiday season is approaching—a prime time for traveling to visit friends, relatives, and loved ones. If you’re anything like me, you’re probably thinking about how to travel with your dog.

As someone who has driven from New York to California and Colorado to California multiple times so my dogs didn’t have to miss a holiday or spend time with a pet sitter, I’ve accumulated a wealth of knowledge when it comes to traveling with my furry friends.

Traveling with your dog doesn’t have to be a hassle. In fact, with the proper products and well-laid out plans, it can be a fun adventure to bring your dog along for the ride. Here’s everything you should take into account before hitting the road with your pooch:

Choosing the Proper Car Setup

Car Crates and Car Harnesses for Dogs

In order to safely with your dog car crates should be smaller than those used in the home.
Note that car crates should be slightly smaller than at-home crates for safety purposes. Your dog should touch three sides of their car crate when laying down for a secure fit. Credit: Jae Thomas

Whether you opt for a car seat cover and a car harness or a car crate, choosing the right travel setup for your dog will keep them comfortable. Never allow your dog to ride loose in the car—in the event of an accident, your dog can become a dangerous projectile and can hurt themselves or other passengers in the car.

Instead, opt for a crash-tested car harness or car crate. The Center for Pet Safety is a third-party organization that tests and evaluates crash-tested dog harnesses and crash-tested dog crates and carriers for safety.

Personally, I use Gunner G1 Kennels for my dogs in the car, and they’re always happy to hop in their car crates and go for a ride. Gunner’s kennels are double-walled for safety and temperature regulation and have been proven to keep dogs safe in accidents.

Mats and Beds for Dog Car Crates

Choosing a crate mat or bed can also keep your pup comfortable on long car rides. If your dog is older or has any orthopedic issues, consider an orthopedic dog bed or crate mat to help their joints.

In my crates, I have the Gunner Performance Pads that I layer with fleece blankets in the winter. Putting a washable blanket or towel over your dog’s crate bed can make cleanup easier in case they get dirty or muddy along the way.

Water Options for Dogs on the Road

A crate bowl in your dog’s crate will give your pup access to water on long drives, and if your dog will drink out of a crate bowl, it eliminates the need for you to offer them water in a collapsible bowl every time you stop. I use a one quart metal bucket clipped to the crate door with a carabiner, but there are lots of custom dog car crate travel bowls available depending on the type of crate you have.

If your dog won’t drink out of a crate bowl, bring along a portable dog water bottle or a collapsible dog bowl so you can offer them a drink at potty and gas stops.

Travel Training Your Dog

Before heading out on the open road with your dog, ensure they’re comfortable both in the car and in their car crate or car harness. Practice using their gear in the house first, then on short drives in the car before your actual trip.

If your dog is just learning how to ride in the car, consider giving them a high value chew bone, a frozen lick mat, or another enrichment toy to make car rides a positive experience. Only give your dog enrichment in their car crate if they can be trusted to not shred or ingest any parts of the enrichment toy.

If your dog is nervous in the car, talk to your vet about other possible solutions like anti-anxiety or anti-nausea medications, calming supplements, or anxiety-reducing garments like Thundershirts.

Packing for Travelling with Your Dog

Packing all your dog’s must-haves will ensure you don’t have any last-minute panicked runs to the pet store along the way or at your destination. Here’s a general packing list to help you get started:

  • Dog food and a bowl: Bring enough food for the entire duration of your trip plus 2-3 days in case you have any unforeseen delays.
  • Water and a bowl: Pack enough for your trip to your destination. Plan for one ounce per pound of your dog’s body weight plus extra just in case.
  • A collapsible dog crate: For crating your dog at the hotel, Airbnb, or friends’ and family’s houses.
  • A travel dog bed: For putting in the collapsible crate.
  • Leashes and collars: Bring your dog’s normal collar with their ID tags on it and bring at least two leashes (it never hurts to have an extra in the car).
  • Enrichment toys: Snuffle mats, food dispensing toys, and other enrichment options can help keep your dog busy and burn some of their energy after long travel days.
  • First aid kit: In case of any minor injuries.
  • Treat pouch and poop bags: Bring along a treat pouch full of your dog’s favorite treats to reinforce them for good behavior and poop bags to pick up any waste

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Dog Safety on the Road

A dog eating out of a crate bucket hanging inside of a dog crate to ensure available food during travel.
Crate buckets work well for making sure your dog has water on the road. If your dog doesn’t prefer to drink from a bucket, be sure to pack a portable water bottle or collapsible dog bowl. Credit: Jae Thomas

Safety should be top of mind when traveling with your dog. In addition to securing your dog in a crash-tested car harness or crate, there are other measures you can take to keep them safe while on the road.

Make sure your dog is microchipped, is wearing an ID tag with your updated phone number, and consider a GPS collar. GPS collars like the Fi Series 3+ Smart Collar can help locate your dog in the event they get lost.

Always keep your dog on a leash in new environments and busy locations, like gas stations and rest stops. Dogs can be sensitive to new locations and long car travel days may seem scary if it’s their first time. Nervous dogs can be more of a flight risk, so keeping your pup on a leash ensures their safety.

Time Your Dog’s Potty Breaks Well

Once you’re ready to get on the road, plan for more driving time than you actually need. Stop to potty your dogs every 2-4 hours, with more frequent stops needed for young puppies, senior dogs, and dogs with medical conditions. Stopping this frequently will also help your dog get their energy out and stretch their legs so they don’t become stiff—especially important for older dogs.

Most truck stop gas stations and rest stops will have nice, grassy areas to potty your dog in. Avoid travel stop dog parks if possible—they’re often dirty and many dogs pass through them, so the risk of contracting any contagious diseases is higher.

If you can’t find a travel stop with a decent potty area, look for local parks or hiking trails on your favorite map app. Forest service roads are also good options for reactive dogs who need quiet places to potty and stretch their legs. Gaia GPS is a helpful app you can download to find local forest service roads along your route.

Keep an Eye on the Temperature

A temperature monitor can help ensure that your dog's traveling temperature remains at a safe level.
A temperature monitor, like the one from Necto shown here, can help ensure the temperature in your vehicle is safe for your dogs. However, it’s important to keep in mind that no tool or technology is 100-percent reliable. If you need to leave your dogs alone in the car, check on them frequently. Credit: Jae Thomas

Whether it’s hot or cold when you’re traveling, always ensure the temperature in your car is comfortable and safe for your dog.

Dogs can overheat in as little as 10 minutes in a car that’s too hot and can develop hypothermia in as little as 30 minutes in a car on cold days. Ensure you roll down windows or use battery operated fans (like Ryobi) in warm weather and consider adding blankets to your dog’s crate or putting them in a jacket during cold weather. Senior dogs and young puppies can be especially sensitive to temperature changes.

I also like to use the Necto Temperature Monitor in my car when traveling with my dogs to give me extra peace of mind regarding the temperature. Even if you’re just running into the gas station to use the restroom or grab a snack, the Necto monitor checks the temperature and updates it every 10 minutes, sending alerts to your phone if it’s getting too warm or cold for your dog’s comfort.

Stud Tail In Dogs

By
Dr. Debra M. Eldredge, DVM
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A bald spot near the base of the tail due to stud tail.
Stud tail in dogs usually looks like a bare spot of bumpy skin hear the base of the tail. Credit: Jacqueline Nix | Getty Images

Stud tail in dogs is due to hyperplasia of the oil (sebaceous) glands on the dog’s tail. While intact males are most often affected, hence the name “stud tail,” it can occur in dogs of both sexes, including dogs who are spayed or neutered. There is speculation that this gland may produce some sex-related scents. This is based on the “violet gland” in foxes. Some dog breeders use that term as well, but no one seems to describe any associated odor as smelling like violets!

Causes of Stud Tail in Dogs

Most commonly, stud tail is caused by excess hormones, usually androgenic ones. This tail gland hyperplasia could be due to simple excess testosterone, adrenal gland hormones influenced by Cushing’s syndrome, or any tumor that causes hormone production. Other causes include:

  • Hypothyroidism (low levels of the thyroid hormones)
  • Seborrhea, although usually more areas than just the tail have blocked hair follicles and greasy skin
  • Another skin disorder that influences the hair growth cycle

What Does Stud Tail in Dogs Look Like?

What you see is a funky area partway down your dog’s tail, close to the base. It may look swollen or simply greasy and discolored. There is usually some hair loss. Rarely, there will be an off odor. The area may be pigmented and feel bumpy.

It is more noticeable in dogs with short- or medium-length haircoats. Labrador Retrievers, Akitas, and German Shepherds seem to have a higher risk of this problem but that is anecdotal.

Complications of Stud Tail in Dogs

Most dogs blissfully ignore the area, but if your dog gets a secondary infection, you might notice him licking, chewing, or rubbing his tail. Inflamed, red skin, discharge, and even draining tracts may develop with an infection (usually bacterial).

Treatment of Stud Tail in Dogs

Your veterinarian will likely do a cytology and check for possible tumors or hormonal imbalances. If indicated, a needle aspirate or a punch biopsy to rule out any type of neoplasia may be done.

Mild cases without obvious infection generally respond to home care,  such as cleaning the area with an anti-seborrhea shampoo or wipes with benzoyl peroxide or chlorhexidine. This cleaning may need to be done two or three times a week. Trimming the hairs around the area can make it easier to keep it clean.

If infection is present, antibiotic ointment or oral medications may be needed.

If your dog is intensely licking or chewing an Elizabethan collar can help speed healing by preventing the dog from reaching the area.

If your dog has an underlying condition such as Cushing’s disease or hypothyroidism, that problem needs to be treated.

Can You Prevent Stud Tail in Dogs?

Not really. Sometimes owners will elect for castration if their dog is intact. It will take a couple of weeks for all the signs to resolve after neutering as hormone levels drop, bit this may not clear the problem.

Fortunately, for most dogs, stud tail is a benign, cosmetic problem, which means keeping the area clean may be all that your dog needs.

Best Toys for Puppies

By
Dr. Mary Cope, PhD
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The best toys for puppies offer a range of options for engagement like smells, chewing, or tugging.
Flick enjoying the Playology teething bone while Merlin seethes with jealously. (Mary Cope photo)

Chewing is a normal part of puppy development. Unlike humans, who have hands, curious puppies explore their surroundings with their mouths. They also begin teething around 3 months of age, where they lose their baby teeth and adult teeth begin to emerge, causing sore gums and a strong urge to chew. Providing appropriate toys for chewing and mental stimulation is essential for puppies to help soothe discomfort and prevent destructive chewing on household items like furniture legs, electrical cords, and shoes.

What Is a Good Teething Toy for Puppies?

A good teething toy should be safe, durable, and appropriately sized for your puppy’s breed and age. Soft but resilient materials, such as rubber, nylon, or silicone, are ideal for massaging sore gums without damaging new teeth. Textured surfaces such as small nubs and ridges can help maintain interest in the chews and allow the puppy to exhibit different chewing behaviors such as pulling and cobbing. Toys that can be chilled in the refrigerator are helpful for soothing gum inflammation and puzzle toys can help keep puppies stimulated and out of trouble.

Fortunately for this review, and unfortunately for my sanity, I had not one, but two puppies to test the following teething and puzzle toys out on! I have two young smooth-coated Collies: Merlin, who is now 1 year old, and Flick, who is 6 months old. These toys have been tested out for several months, and the verdict is in. We tested out six types of teething toys and three enrichment toys to help you pick the best option for your pups!

Overall Best Puppy Toy and Best Puppy Teething Toy:

One of the best puppy teething toys overall is the playology scented chewbone.

Playology Young & Active Teething Bone

$19.99

Made in China

Scents: Beef, Chicken, Peanut Butter

This was a total puppy favorite. This toy is scented, a soft rubber, durable, and textured just right. The solid-cast nubs help sooth sore gums, and the texture and scent help keeps pups engaged. This toy touts a seven-times longer playtime due to the added scent, which I was skeptical about at first, but now I am sold on its benefits. This toy is easy to rinse off and clean, perfect for moderate to heavy chewers, and only shows some minor wear after four months!

This is the puppy’s favorite teething toy, and it is still their primary go-to months later! I will not bring a puppy home in the future without one of these in the house.

Best Puppy Tug Toy:

The Nylabone tug toy was one of the best puppy toys we reviewed.

Nylabone Puppy Teeth ‘n Tug Toy

$13.19

Made in China

This toy was great for the puppies to play together with, and this is a toy they pick up to play with often. I do like it and would buy it again, however I wish I had sized up, as I got the toy for the size they were when they were much younger, and this is still a toy they like as much bigger dogs. This toy does not show any sign of wear, even after multiple vigorous tug and chew sessions.

Best Freezable Puppy Teething Toy:

Petstages was the best freezable puppy teething toy reviewed.

Petstages Cool Teething Stick

$4.99

Made in China

This toy is designed to be wet and frozen for icy-relief! This is a great option for small dogs who are light chewers, but it is too small for larger breed puppies. This is a very soft toy, when it is not frozen, but my puppies did like all the little fabric tassles and were interested in chewing it.

Best Puppy Teething Stick:

Kong offered one of the best freezable and stuffable puppy teething toy.

Kong Puppy Teething Stick

$13.99

Made in USA

This soft rubber toy has ridges that can be filled with treats, wet food, peanut butter, pumpkin, or yogurt for extra, and sometimes messy, fun! I liked freezing some sort of wet treat in the grooves to make it last longer and help sooth their sore mouths. My biggest complaint is that it can be challenging to clean. This was not the puppy’s first pick for chewing, unless it had food involved, but it is one they grab from time-to-time.

Best Puppy Toy for Power Chewer:

Benebone was the best puppy teething toy for an aggressive chewer.

Benebone Tough Puppy Chew Multipack

$24.95 (4-pack)

Made in USA

We have lots of Benebones lying about the house and they have been a great, reliable chew for all my dogs, not just the puppies. However, they are very hard, and they can pose a risk for fractured teeth. They are also incredibly painful to step-on in the night—be warned. These toys are the only ones that I think would stand up against a power-chewer and the flavor in the chew keeps my dogs coming back for more!

Best Puppy Teething Toy for Enrichment:

Nylabone offers one of the best teething toys for enrichment.

Nylabone Puppy Teething Stick

$12.69

Made in China

This toy is stuffable and freezable to keep your pup entertained. I do find this toy much easier to clean compared to the KONG Teething Stick. Similar to the KONG, this was not a toy that I found the puppies grabbing often to chew on without added food for incentive, but it is one that is nice to have on hand for treat enrichment!

Best Puppy Snuffle Mat:

Nina Ottosson offers one of the best snuffle mats to tire dogs out.

Nina Ottosson Snuffle Palz Bird

$15.99

Made in Cambodia

This snuffle mat is nice because it can be made more challenging by closing the Velcro arms. I love snuffle mats for puppies as it helps tire out their brains by making them problem-solve and use their noses to find the hidden food. This snuffle mat can be machine-washed, however, I do wish it was bigger. Be sure to supervise your puppy as chewing or ripping up the snuffle mat may be an attractive option, especially for frustrated pups!

Best Puppy Puzzle Toy:

Outward hound combined a puzzle feeder, lick mat, and slow feeder into a single puppy teething toy.

Outward Hound Puppy Lickin’ Layers Puzzle Feeder

$15.99

Made in Vietnam

This is a 3-in-1 lick mat, slow feeder, and puzzle feeder that features three layers of fun! Puppies have to spin, lick, and sniff through this slow-feeding puzzle. This toy is dishwasher safe and BPA free. While I absolutely love this toy/feeder combo, I would recommend sizing up to the normal size Lickin’ Layers bowl (for adult dogs) for larger breeds as the puppy version is quite small and can only hold about a half cup of food.

Best Slow-Feeding Puppy Toy:

Frisco slow feeding ball is a toy and treat dispenser in one.

Frisco Treat Dispensing Ball

$10.99

Made in China

This toy is fantastic for enrichment and slow feeding. There is a bit of a learning curve, but the ball can be adjusted to increase or decrease the flow of treats to make it more or less challenging. A word of warning, this is a LOUD toy, especially on hard floors and with kibble. If noise is an issue, I would recommend using it on a carpet and opting for a softer treat to fill it.

The right toys can make the many stages of puppyhood far more fun and comfortable for both puppies and their owners. Look for safe, appropriately sized options to encourage healthy chewing and structured play. Be sure to match the toy with your puppy’s chewing strength, check toys frequently for damage, and replace toys when worn. The expense of a replacement toy is always going to be less than a trip to the emergency vet! Hopefully, this review helps you find the perfect match for your puppy at home.

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