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  • The Best Dry Dog Foods
  • WDJ’s Approved Dry Dog Food Makers for 2025
  • Spotting Hip Dysplasia
  • Idiopathic Aggression
  • Dog Transport Services
  • The Dog Owner’s Budget
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Changing Dog Food Too Quickly

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Changing dog food too quickly can have a variety of symptoms.
A gradual switch in dog food is usually recommended by veterinarians regardless of why you’re changing the food. Credit: ti-ja | Getty Images

For some dog owners, switching dog food is not a big deal. These dogs often sail through switching dog foods without a transition period, especially if they’re already eating a varied diet.

If your dog is used to a constant variety of dog food, as has always been recommended by Whole Dog Journal, he may not require a transition. Many dogs can eat a wide variety of ingredients and foods and will tolerate a rotational diet, provided the protein and fat levels of the foods you’re choosing are similar.

If you’ve always fed the “same” food and need to change, a slow transition will be easiest for you and your dog.

Switching Dog Food

A gradual switch in dog food is usually recommended by veterinarians regardless of why you’re changing the food. The only exception, of course, is in the event of a food recall when you must stop feeding the bad food immediately. Otherwise, plan to go slowly to avoid gastrointestinal upset like diarrhea. If this is done properly, your dog is unlikely to have any problems.

The standard recommendation for how to mix food when switching from one to another is 25% new food/75% old food for 3 or 4 days. Then, go to 50%/50% for 3 or 4 days. The next mix is 75% new/25% old for another 3 to 4 days. Then, you feed only the new diet. Most dogs handle this schedule just fine but there are some exceptions.

You may need a more gradual switch if your dog has been eating a raw diet or you are moving to a raw diet. Even going from a straight kibble diet to an all-canned food diet may require a slower approach over a longer course of time.

Protein Considerations in Switching Dog Food

Switching main protein sources can upset some dogs. If your dog has eaten chicken foods for years, and now you want to switch to beef, you may need to take more care and be aware of potential allergy reactions.

Changes within a brand, like going from chicken to rabbit but staying with Brand X, or changes that maintain the usual protein source, going from Brand X chicken to Brand Y chicken, are often the smoothest switches.

A gradual switch to a diet that is compatible with your dog should not cause any major health changes and certainly not be fatal. Dogs rarely have anaphylactic reactions to certain foods like people may experience.

Reactions to Switching Dog Food Too Quickly

On the other hand, some dogs do react to diet change, so you need to be aware and respond quickly. Signs to watch for include:

  • Dog isn’t eating well or is eating everything but the new food
  • Changes in bowel movements (soft stools are usually seen before diarrhea appears)
  • Frequency of bowel movements may change
  • Changes in thirst, such as he empties the water bowl multiple times a day

If your dog needs to change his diet, for example to a prescription diet, but has some diarrhea, back down on the amount of new food and build it up more slowly, like in 10% increments, not 25%.

It is also wise to add a probiotic whenever you make a diet change to help your dog’s microbiome adjust to the nutrient change.

Dog Food Change Helpers

If your dog needs the diet change for his health but doesn’t like the new food, ask your veterinarian about safe food “toppers” and appetite stimulants that might help. Warming the food or adding warm water can increase the odors and stimulate appetite as well.

Despite all these cautions, there are dogs known for their “garbage guts.” You could change the diet for these dogs every other day, no mixing or precautions, and they do just fine. Unfortunately, most of our dogs aren’t quite that accommodating, and it’s usually best to do a transition.

Crate Training a Puppy

Crate training a puppy provides the puppy with a safe secure space of their own.
One of the goals with puppy crate training is that your puppy feels safe, comfortable, and secure in his crate. Many puppies eventually seek out their crate for a quiet nap. Credit: cmannphoto | Getty Images

Crate training is a valuable skill, especially for puppies. A safe, secure, and properly sized puppy crate is the safest place for your puppy when you are not home, cannot supervise him, or the house is dangerously hectic (puppy might escape!). All my puppies were acquainted with a crate. Additionally, sometimes, such as in a natural disaster, a crate-trained dog can mean the difference between being able to take your dog with you to a safe space or not.

All responsible rescue groups as well as responsible breeders start the crate-training process before you even bring your puppy home. So, hopefully, your puppy won’t be a stranger to a crate. My puppy, who just turned 1 year old, was crate-trained before he came to me, but that did not mean that he embraced being crated in my home initially. We worked hard at this process.

Make Crate-Training Positive for Your Dog

Creating positive associations with the crate is a vital first step before leaving your puppy in a crate when home alone. Puppies sleeping in the crate in the same room that you sleep in helps create a conditioned response of safety. It’s also easy bonding. The family sleeping together in the same space helps a puppy sleep better. Crate training a puppy at night is the best start on this path.

You can make positive associations with a crate by tossing tiny high value treats into the crate so that your puppy goes in on his own. If you have additional dogs, prevent them from taking the puppy’s treats during this process, although the puppy will notice adult dogs easily going into the crate as a good example.

Soft verbal reinforcement when entering the crate is important. This should be done randomly at different times of the day if possible. Place food-dispensing toys inside. Don’t lure your puppy inside. Allow him to choose to go in and then reward him. He may remove the toys initially to enjoy them but, with repetition, he will lay inside and enjoy them instead.

Having the crate in a room where you regularly spend time with your puppy makes this practice part of the regular routine. When the puppy chooses to go inside the crate, you can randomly close the door very briefly. I stagger this, meaning sometimes I close it and sometimes I don’t. Not moving forward each time creates less anxiety about the protocol. If you are doing these repetitions frequently enough, it will become normal to use a time frame that your puppy may already be tired so that at some point, you can close the crate door and leave the room briefly (or not). “Or not” depends on what you hear when you do.

If crate training results in a crying puppy, you may have rushed things a bit. Returning for crying or whining is a bad idea. If you have done your due diligence, there should not be any crying or whining. Start crate training slowly. The exception is overnight sleeping, with the caveat that if your puppy cries to go potty in the middle of the night, please listen to them.

Puppy-Crate Safety

I have learned from experience that puppies can and will shred bedding and stuffed toys when home alone in a crate. This may create an issue of physical safety. I do not wish to come home to the possibility of an intestinal blockage—or worse—from a swallowed blanket, so I only provide safe-to-chew items in a crate when alone. Examples of these include Kong products designed for this, some Toppl products, Nylabones, and Benebones.

Toys and chews need to be appropriate for the puppy’s size and age. My own preference for a crate-safe enrichment includes smearable food on/in the chewing type toys. For the original Kong toy shaped like a snowman, please don’t jump straight to jamming hard treats or kibble inside and then freezing it with some liquid poured in or with added peanut butter to keep everything even more stuck. Here’s why: That is what I call a PhD-level Kong. You should start with a kindergarten-level Kong before you get to the PhD level. Also, a dog capable of emptying such a Kong when home with you there, may not have the same relaxed mental state to do the same in a crate when alone. Work your way up to that, if at all.

How I use Kongs like those is to cut a bunch of high-value treats such as boiled chicken or single-source meat hot dogs into tiny little pieces and show my puppy how to go about emptying it when I am home first. I make them loose and easy to get out initially. As the puppy grows more confident with this process, I might fill it a bit more so that the puppy must work a little harder. But I never get to the “pack it in and make it all stuck together” point.

I also like the Kong Goodie Ribbon as a potentially less frustrating option. Four holes on each side. Very visible, very difficult to ignore if you are using something high value, which is always important. I have strung boiled chicken through from one side to the other as well as turkey bacon. I also squirt some squeeze cheese on top as well as some whipped cream, alternating like I am decorating a cookie.

Note: Some professionals suggest feeding a puppy inside the crate, but I am not among them. I like to have my dogs eat meals when I do the same and the crate isn’t part of that equation.

You can also use an ex-pen (exercise pen), alternately known as a puppy pen, if room for a crate is an issue. Just make sure that the puppy cannot jump over it, climb up it, or move it. Some ex-pens have tops available to stop puppy climbing.

Safe Dog-Crating Tips

Some important points to note for crate and ex-pen usage:

  • Remove collars when crating. This eliminates the possibility of a tag catching on a crate spot and injuring the puppy.
  • Be mindful of how long your puppy will be crated when home alone. A common rule of thumb is 1 hour for every month of age. But that could then mean 8 hours for an 8-month-old dog, and I would strongly disagree. My own guideline is 4 to 5 hours, depending again on the puppy’s age, time of day, and what kind of enrichment and exercise they may have had prior to crating.
  • Your puppy’s crate should be in a room that you regularly spend time with him in. Basements or a room that is only used for the crate are not a good idea.
  • Do not use the crate for punishment such as a time out, etc. That will create the opposite of a positive association.
  • Size the crate appropriately. Most wire crates now come with a divider that can be moved or removed completely according to your puppy’s size. Wire crates are better options than closed in airline type crates.

Dog Socialization: Unleash Canine Confidence

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Signs of a poorly socialized dog should be recognized and addressed early on.
If a puppy is unsure about something new, give them time to observe. Don’t rush interactions. You can return to the situation another time, getting closer when the puppy is comfortable. Credit: Yuliya Movchan | Getty Images

Dogs are naturally social beings, but that doesn’t mean every puppy leaves the litter with social skills or that trauma can’t derail an adult dog who previously socialized with other dogs, people, and other animals.

What Is Dog Socialization?

Socialization is the process of preparing a dog to enjoy interactions and be comfortable with other animals, people, places, and activities, according to the American Veterinary Medical Association (AVMA).

Research shows that, while dogs of any age can be socialized, ideally, socialization should begin between 3 and 14 weeks of age. During that period in a pup’s life, they are deeply impacted by their experiences, according to research.

Having a well-socialized dog means more than just a friendly pup. The Oregon Veterinary Medical Association (OVMA) advises that, if dogs do not become socialized, they may become anxious, fearful, and antisocial with people and other animals.

And that’s a major concern. Behavior problems are a major reason so many pets are brought to shelters.  The frustrated owners just don’t know how to handle a poorly socialized dog.

Signs of a Poorly Socialized Dog

While some excitement is normal, poorly socialized dogs may exhibit over-excitement or hyperactivity in social situations, leading to inappropriate behaviors like jumping or nipping.

Poorly socialized dogs often show distress when faced with new stimuli. Their reactions can vary in intensity, but they usually stem from fear or anxiety.

If not properly socialized, your dog may exhibit behaviors such as aggression toward strangers and other dogs. Signs of a poorly socialized dog include, but are not limited to:

  • Anxiety/fear
  • Cowering
  • Difficulty grooming
  • Excessive barking
  • Fear of noise
  • Growling
  • Reactivity on walks
  • Separation anxiety
  • Snapping

If you suspect your dog may be poorly socialized, it’s crucial to consult with a certified dog trainer or veterinary behaviorist for  guidance.

How and When to Socialize Your Puppy

Focus on socializing your puppy the moment you bring her home. Try to patiently and gradually expose her to a variety of sights, sounds, and experiences. You can go on walks in different places, take a puppy training class, take your puppy with you to stores like Home Depot that generally allow dogs, maybe schedule play dates with a friend who has either a gentle older dog or a puppy close to your dog’s age and size. Throughout all this, always be patient with your puppy.

Never force your puppy to deal with something; if the puppy is fearful, move farther away from the scary thing and distract the puppy with treats. You can also simply leave and try on another day(s), with lots of extra yummy treats.

The Animal Humane Society suggests:

  • Handle your puppy daily, including gentle petting, holding, and examining paws and ears.
  • Gradually introduce your puppy to a variety of everyday sounds (e.g., traffic, appliances, children).
  • Teach your puppy to tolerate people near their food bowl by dropping treats in the puppy’s dish.
  • To prevent social anxiety, short periods of alone time are essential to prevent separation anxiety.
  • Focus on positive reinforcement, rewarding good behavior and preventing unwanted behaviors (e.g., biting) through gentle redirection.
  • Introduce your puppy to a variety of people, including men and children.
  • Redirect biting with appropriate toys and end play sessions if biting becomes too hard.

Always Socializing

Although a dog’s primary sensitive period of socialization is as a puppy, it’s important to continue to socialize your dog throughout their life with activities like:

  • Dog-to-dog interactions: Engage in various social activities like dog parks, playdates, and walks to facilitate appropriate dog-to-dog interactions.
  • Enrich your dog’s environment: Vary your walking routes to provide mental stimulation and exposure to different environments.
  • Prevent separation anxiety: Practice short periods of alone time daily to prevent separation anxiety.
  • Manage fear: Avoid punishing fear and remove your dog from the situation and redirect their attention.
  • Stay hands-on: Continue handling your dog gently to ensure the dog is comfortable being touched and examined. Pay attention to signs of discomfort and stop if needed.

Socializing an Adult Dog

If socialization training starts with an adult dog, especially one with a history of reactivity, you will need more of a patient and gradual approach. Enrolling in a class with an experienced trainer to coach you will be money well spent.

  • Begin with low-stress interactions. Let your dog observe people and other dogs from a distance and gradually decrease the distance as they become more comfortable.
  • Create positive associations with people and other dogs by offering treats and praise.
  • Never force your dog into social situations. Let them approach at their own pace and never punish them for showing fear or anxiety.

Socialize a Reactive Dog

If your dog shows aggressive tendencies, follows these tips on how to socialize a reactive dog:

Play it safe: Focus on keeping your dog safe and comfortable in situations where he might react. This may involve using a leash, muzzle, or barrier to create distance between your dog and potential triggers.

Start slowly: Gradually expose your dog to triggers at a distance that they can tolerate. For example, observe other dogs from a park bench or watch people walk by from inside your house.

Use positive reinforcement: When your dog is calm around their triggers, reward them with treats, praise, or petting.

Turn to the pros: If you’re struggling to socialize your dog, consider consulting with a certified professional dog trainer or behaviorist. They can help you develop a personalized training plan and provide guidance on how to manage your dog’s reactivity.

Factors Affecting Dog Socialization

In addition to proper early-life experiences, these factors influence a dog’s socialization:

Genetics: Breed temperament and individual personality traits can influence a dog’s response to new situations. Some breeds may be naturally more cautious or fearful, while others may be more social.

Environmental Factors: The environment in which your dog is raised can significantly impact their socialization. A stimulating and enriching environment with opportunities for exploration and positive social interactions is ideal.

Owner Behavior: Your behavior plays a crucial role. If you’re fearful or anxious around strangers or other dogs, your dog may learn to mimic these behaviors.

Socialization and Personalization

It’s crucial to remember that every dog is unique. It’s always best to consult with a certified professional dog trainer or veterinarian for a plan tailored to your dog’s needs, and temperament.

What is Shaker Syndrome in Dogs?

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White dog shaker syndrome doesn't affect only white dog, but all dogs can suffer from this neurological disorder.
While shaker syndrome can affect dogs of any color, breed, or size, it most commonly shows up in West Highland White Terriers, Maltese, and Toy Poodles. Credit: Salima Senyavskaya | Getty Images

Despite its name, white dog shaker syndrome can affect dogs of any size and color. Once other causes for the tremors have been ruled out, treatment is generally straightforward with a good prognosis.

 

 

Why Do Small Dogs Shake?

Your dog may shake for a variety of reasons, many of which are perfectly normal. Some normal reasons for shaking or shivering include:

  • Your dog is cold
  • Your dog is scared or anxious
  • Your dog is dreaming as she sleeps
  • Your dog’s muscles are exhausted and need a break

These causes are pretty easy to recognize. If your dog is in a colder environment than she is used to, try putting a coat or blanket on her and see if the shivering resolves. If your dog is fast asleep, you can either wake her up or let her enjoy her dream. If something is causing your dog distress, comfort your dog and try to remove or avoid triggers of anxiety.

Muscle fatigue is most common in senior dogs who have lost a lot of muscle mass or in younger dogs who have engaged in extreme activity. In the case of the senior dog, she likely will have thin, poorly defined muscles, and you will notice tremors when she is walking or standing. Her muscles are tired and just can’t keep up. In the young dog, she likely also be panting from her intense exercise and have a wide, lolling tongue and a slightly tight expression. Her muscles are also tired, it just took a lot more activity to wear them out!

Regardless of the cause of muscle fatigue, the tremors will resolve once your dog has a chance to rest and relax.

White Dog Shaker Syndrome

Shaker syndrome in dogs goes by many names. Your veterinarian may describe it as non-suppurative meningoencephalomyelitis or steroid-responsive tremors.

Regardless of what you call it, white dog shaker syndrome is characterized by tremors throughout the head and body that are rhythmic and repetitive like shivering. The tremors are also involuntary, meaning that your dog can’t control them.

Affected dogs may just have tremors on one part of the head or body or may shake all over. Severity can vary from mild and unobtrusive to severe enough that the tremors interfere with your dog’s ability to walk or eat during an episode. Thankfully, it is not painful (though severe tremors may be distressing for your dog). Often the shaking will get worse when the dog is active or excited and subside when she is at rest.

The term “little white shaker dog” came about because the most commonly affected breeds are West Highland White Terriers, Maltese, and Toy Poodles. That said, any breed or mix of any size and color can develop shaker syndrome. Bichon Frises, Beagles, and Yorkshire Terriers are other breeds that get this condition a little more frequently.

Because of the breed tendencies, it is suspected that shaker syndrome in dogs has a genetic element and may be heritable. It usually shows up when the dog is 1 to 2 years old.

We don’t know why some dogs get shaker syndrome and so many others don’t. Researchers and veterinarians suspect that it is an autoimmune disorder, but there are still many questions.

How to Treat White Shaker Syndrome

If you suspect your dog may have shaker syndrome, the first step is to have a veterinary exam to rule out other potential causes of the tremors. This is especially critical if your dog also has other symptoms of illness.

Your vet will listen to your dog’s heart and may take an x-ray to check for signs of heart disease and will run bloodwork and a urinalysis to check for metabolic diseases such as liver disease, kidney disease, or diabetes. If your dog did not receive proper puppy vaccines or if she has other symptoms of illness, your vet may recommend testing for distemper virus and other infectious diseases.

Your vet will also ask if your dog has been exposed to anything toxic or could have gotten into something in your house, garage, or yard.

In more severe cases, your vet may refer you to a neurologist to have your dog evaluated for neurologic disorders. These might include idiopathic epilepsy, infectious meningitis, seizures due to a brain tumor, or stroke. The neurologist will give your dog a thorough neurologic exam and may recommend an MRI to look at the brain and/or a spinal tap to culture cerebral spinal fluid to check for infection. Thankfully, these measures are not usually necessary for most dogs with shaker syndrome.

Once other causes have been ruled out and shaker syndrome is the top diagnosis on your veterinarian’s list, treatment is usually straightforward. Prednisone is the most common treatment. Your dog should show improvement within one to two weeks of starting prednisone.

You will continue with the starting dose of prednisone until your dog’s tremors have completely resolved. At that point, your veterinarian will advise you on how to gradually taper the dose to find the lowest effective dose that keeps the tremors at bay.

Prednisone is a steroid which has potent effects on the immune system and can cause mild to severe side effects at high doses and over time. This is why it is important to keep in contact with your veterinarian and taper the dose as low as possible to balance controlling the tremors with preventing side effects. Common side effects from prednisone are increased thirst, urination, and appetite. Some dogs may become aggressive on prednisone. Over time, it can cause Cushing’s disease. If you think your dog is experiencing side effects from prednisone, talk to your veterinarian. Never stop prednisone abruptly.

Diazepam or midazolam are also sometimes used to treat shaker syndrome in dogs, along with other immunosuppressants. The plus to prednisone is that these are inexpensive and readily available.

Shaker syndrome in dogs has an excellent prognosis. Most dogs already have an excellent quality of life if they just have mild tremors and a customized dose of prednisone can keep unwanted shaking at bay.

 

Designer Dogs: Mixed Breeds with High Price Tags

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Designer dogs, like doodle dogs are highly sought after and expensive pets.
The incredibly athletic and friendly Poodle is often one of the choices in creating “designer dogs.” The resulting mixes are called “Doodles.” Credit: Christopher Furlong | Getty Images

What’s a designer dog? In a nutshell, a designer dog is the result of a purposeful breeding of two dogs of different breeds to create a new mix that brings out the most desired features in the two original breeds. The most popular designer dog breeds today include Poodles, which tend to be smart, athletic, and friendly. They’re also widely considered low-shedding dogs. Poodle-mix dogs are often grouped as “Doodles.”

Doodle dogs can be mixed with many different breeds, but the most popular are:

  • Labradoodles (Poodle and Labrador Retriever)
  • Goldendoodles (Poodle and Golden Retriever
  • Sheepadoodles (Poodle and Old English Sheepdog)
  • Bernedoodles (Poodle and Bernese Mountain Dog)
  • Schnoodles (Poodle and Schnauzer)

Other popular dog breed mixes include:

  • Pomsky (Pomeranian and Husky)
  • Puggle (Pug and Beagle)
  • Chiweenies (Dachshund and Chihuahua)
  • Yorkiepoos (Yorkshire Terrier and Toy Poodle)
  • Boxadors (Boxer and Labrador)
  • Cockapoo (Poodle and Cocker Spaniel)

Most of these mixes are adorable, especially as puppies, which is why they are so popular. The public wants cute dogs, and that’s fine, but we must add that you can find cute dogs and puppies in shelters, too.

While many designer dog breeders promote the puppies as a “new breed,” they are, of course, just mixed breeds. The American Kennel Club recognizes 202 breeds as of 2025, and getting a breed officially recognized is not easy. It requires a national breed club and breed standard, at least 300 to 400 dogs with a three-generation pedigree (all the same breed), and a solid geographic distribution of the dogs.

Mixed designer breeds can be registered with the AKC for the purpose of competing in AKC sports. Registration with the AKC does not mean that a dog is a purebred. One must look at the type of registration.

Expensive Dogs

Ethical breeders perform health testing based on the individual breed and choose breeding animals for good temperaments and genes. Not all breeders of designer puppies care about health, good structure, and temperament when they breed two dogs, and they put high price tags on the pups. Note: Scientifically, there is no such thing as “hybrid vigor,” so mating between two different breeds isn’t going to automatically boost the resulting pup’s health. With most designer dogs, there is no mention of the lack of predictability of traits or genetic testing for disease, such as through the Canine Health Information Center.

The prices of designer dog breeds are largely inflated, often costing more than a true purebred dog. The puppies are often sold on generic websites with little solid information for the people looking for a cute puppy.

All Those Designer Doodle Dogs

If you’re buying a Poodle or a Doodle, you should know how crucial regular grooming is. Many of these breeds are also promoted as hypoallergenic. That is not the case. Families looking for a lack of shedding and minimal effect on breathing in allergens are often not given accurate information.

Additionally, Poodles are working breeds, which means they are active, intelligent dogs. With many Doodle mixes, this can mean that their energy levels rival the Energizer Bunny. Not all of them, of course. There are Doodles who are calmer than average and have stellar temperaments. They tend to be bred by someone who breeds for temperament and health and spends time training and socializing before a puppy goes to their new home. Good breeders are also available to provide information and support and potentially take back a dog (if the buyer cannot keep the dog for some reason) for the puppy’s lifetime.

Designer Dogs Are Mixed Breeds

The bottom line is that mixed breeds are just as lovable as purebreds. If you are not looking specifically for a purebred, you can often find what you are looking for in one of the many shelters and rescue groups in any given area. There are many Poodle mixes already in existence. Your veterinarian will be happy to put you in touch with ethical, legitimate shelters that will work with you to find the best dog for your family at a very low cost.

Natural Pain Relief for Dogs

Natural pain relief for dogs includes massage, ice compresses, herbs, and more.
Massage can be a useful tool for easing a dog’s pain without drugs. Credit: electravk | Getty Images

Like their human companions, dogs and puppies hurt when they’re injured or when an illness or surgery causes discomfort. Whether a dog’s pain is acute (sharp and recent) or chronic (continuous or frequently recurring), there are natural pain relief options that can help.

Dogs are famous for hiding pain, so pay close attention when your pup limps, has trouble walking, whimpers, whines, reduces activity, licks or chews a leg or other area, or seems restless or agitated. The cause may be a physical injury, osteoarthritis, hip or joint issues, infections (such as ear or bladder problems), tooth or gum disease, or cancer. Not every symptom requires medical attention, but if your dog is in obvious pain, check with your veterinarian.

Managing Acute Pain in Dogs

Acute pain comes on suddenly, such as when your dog cries after hurting himself running or playing, or after surgery, such as when your female dog is spayed. Follow your veterinarian’s recommendations and be ready to provide what injured dogs need to speed recovery: rest, a comfortable bed, peaceful surroundings, easy access to water, and pain-support therapies.

Cold packs are often recommended for acute pain. To apply one, place a thin cloth such as a tea towel between the dog’s skin and a bag of ice or ice shavings, frozen vegetables, or a frozen gel pack. Move it frequently to avoid damaging tissue. Cold packs are recommended for recent injuries, inflammation, bruises, and swelling. They can be used for up to 10-15 minutes at a time, repeating frequently during the first 48 hours.

Managing Chronic Pain in Dogs

Chronic conditions stay for weeks, months, or years. Many, like osteoarthritis, become more debilitating with time. Joint pain and other discomforts that limit a dog’s mobility can be treated with gentle (not hot) warmth from a heating pad, hot water bottle, dry or moist warm towel, or heat wrap. Gentle heat can be applied for 15 to 30 minutes at a time, with equal time off. This treatment helps relieve pain, muscle spasms, and joint stiffness, increases blood circulation to the injured area, and helps prepare muscles for exercise or stretching.

Anti-inflammatory Herbs for Canine Pain Relief

Medicinal herbs known for their anti-inflammatory or pain-relieving effects on dogs include:

  • Boswellia (Boswellia serrata)
  • Cayenne (Capsicum annuum)
  • Chamomile (Matricaria chamomilla, Anthemia nobilis)
  • Cat’s Claw (Uncaria tomentosa)
  • Comfrey (Symphytum officinale)
  • Devil’s Claw Root (Harpagophytum procumbens)
  • Turmeric (Curcuma longa)
  • White Willow Bark (Salix spp.)
  • Yucca (Yucca spp.)

See our review of herbs for arthritis and visit the websites that offer herbal pain remedies like Animal Essentials Joint Support, DogPainAway, and DGP for Pets. Members of the Veterinary Botanical Medical Association routinely use medicinal herbs for pets.

Can CBD Help Relieve Pain in Dogs?

Today’s most popular herbal products for natural pain relief for dogs include hemp-derived CBD oils, tinctures, capsules, treats, and salves.

In her 2019 review of CBD’s uses in veterinary medicine, Catherine Ashe, DVM, warned, “There is not a single medication containing CBD that is approved by the United States Food & Drug Administration (FDA) for animals.” This remains true today, though in January 2023, the FDA announced that it plans to work with Congress to develop a new regulatory pathway for all CBD products.

PubMed, the National Institutes of Health’s medical research database, lists over 100 published papers investigating CBD’s canine applications. Several tested CBD’s effect on physical pain and continuing research may prove that specific CDB products given at specific doses effectively control pain caused by different conditions.

Until then, talk to your veterinarian, who may have clinical experience and recommendations. Look for brands that are third-party tested for strength, quality, and safety, such as  Chill Paws, CBD Dog Health, All the Best Pet Care, Honest Paws, or  Medterra CBD for Pets. Third-party testing is important because, according to the FDA, CBD product label descriptions are often incorrect. Individual responses vary, so start with the smallest recommended dose for your dog’s weight (or begin with an even smaller amount) and observe your dog’s reaction. Gradually increase to a higher recommended dose or reduce the dose as needed.

Aromatherapy and Essential Oils for Dogs

Essential oils, most of which are steam-distilled from the leaves, roots, or blossoms of medicinal plants, do more than smell interesting. Many of them have pain-relieving properties, such as Copaiba (Copaifera officinalis), Peppermint (Mentha piperita), Helichrysum (Helichrysum italicum), Frankencense (Boswellia spp.), and Lavender (Lavendula angustifolia). For pet application, essential oils are usually diluted in carrier oils and applied with massage or petting.

Some veterinarians have published guidelines about the use of essential oils for pets. Nancy Brandt, DVM, founded the Veterinary Medical Aromatherapy Association and offers online courses to pet owners and veterinarians; Melissa Shelton, DVM, wrote  The Animal Desk Reference, now in its second edition; Mia Frezzo, DVM, wrote SpOil Your Pet: A Practical Guide to Using Essntial Oils in Dogs and Cats, now in its third edition; and Janet Rourk, DVM, wrote a free Essential Oils for Pet Safety Guidebook and founded Essential Oil Vet, an online resource for canine aromatherapy.

Products designed for pet use help relieve pain in dogs of all ages. Dr. Shelton’s Any-Itis blend combines fractionated coconut oil with Copaiba, Helichrysum, and Peppermint. It can be gently massaged into painful joints and other areas of inflammation.

At Frogworks, pet aromatherapist Frances Fitzgerald Cleveland created

Path to Comfort with Sweet Marjoram, Ginger, Helichrysum, Carrot Seed, Grapefruit, Vetiver, and Rose essential oils in a base of safflower oil for the improvement of sore muscles, arthritis, lack of mobility, and pain, plus support for emotional stress, anxiety, and sadness.

Be sure to only use essential oils that are appropriately formulated and safe for dogs.

Canine Massage for Pain Relief

Canine massage therapists are ready to help your dog recover from painful conditions, but there’s a lot you can do yourself. See WDJ’s Dog Massage Instruction and Pain Relieving Massage Therapy for Dogs. For certified pet massage therapists, see the National Board of Certification for Animal Acupressure and Massage and The International Association of Animal Massage and Bodywork.

Systemic Oral Enzyme Therapy

Systemic oral enzyme therapy is more familiar in Europe than in the United States. In fact, the German product Wobenzym is that nation’s most popular NSAID (non-steroidal anti-inflammatory) next to aspirin. Products labeled for systemic therapy are enteric-coated, meaning that they survive stomach acid and break down in the intestines, where they enter the blood stream. Systemic oral enzyme products sold in the US include Wobenzym, MediZym, Mega-Zyme, and FlavenZym.

For a detailed description of their veterinary uses, see Enzyme Therapy for Quicker Canine Injury Recoveryand Wobenzym: A Digestive Enzyme Supplement for Dogs. According to the veterinarians we interviewed for those articles, systemic oral enzymes help prevent injuries, speed recovery after accidents or surgery, and bring new mobility to older dogs with chronic stiffness, joint pain, and skin and coat problems. The product NZymes, which is not enteric-coated, is designed for pets, and its website features several videos showing the recovery of dogs in pain.

Enzymes should be given between meals (at least one hour before or two hours after eating) for systemic effects. If the label shows a human dose of 3 tablets twice a day, use 3 tablets once a day for dogs weighing 51-100 pounds, 2 tablets daily for dogs weighing 21 to 50 pounds, and 1 tablet daily for dogs weighing 3 to 20 pounds.

Support Therapies for Dogs in Pain

Veterinary chiropractors (see the American Veterinary Chiropractic Association), acupuncturists (see the American Academy of Veterinary Acupuncture), acupressure practitioners (see and Animal Acupressure), and physical therapists (see the Canine Rehabilitation Institute) have long provided help for dogs in pain, and now technologies like PEMF (Pulsed ElectroMagnetic Field therapy) and laser treatments provide additional drug-free support. In addition, members of the American Holistic Veterinary Medical Association practice the techniques mentioned here.

Whatever the cause of your dog’s discomfort, there may be a natural method that speeds recovery.

Tips for Dog Owners Near a Disaster Zone

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A fire in a residential neighborhood consumes a dog house.
Are you prepared for evacuating away from a disaster with your pets—or helping those who have had to? Photo credit: kristo74, Getty Images

Could you evacuate your home 15 minutes from now, with everything you would need to live with your pets in a hotel for a few days, weeks, or months? What if you had an hour’s notice?

Coverage of the fires near Los Angeles has been triggering to many of my friends here in Northern California, where we have suffered three massive fires (the Camp fire in Paradise in 2018, the North Complex fire in 2020, and, just last summer, the Park fire, which burned for over two months) in recent years. Through working as a volunteer for the North Valley Animal Disaster Group (NVADG, locally pronounced “nav-dag”) through two of those fires, and evacuating my family from two smaller fires that burned close to my home, I consider myself an expert at what to do and what not to do in response to a local disaster.

Readiness Tips

When your receive the very first report of a disaster near you, go find your pets’ ID tags, collars, and harnesses and put them on. Immediately contain your most skittish pet and work your way to the calmest one. Many frightened pets have been lost in the first few chaotic minutes of a disaster. Don’t wait for the call to evacuate before doing this, because once you receive that text from emergency services or see that news report, believe me, your hands may start shaking and your brain may go blank. Before it’s that real, you will be functioning better—perhaps not optimally, but better.

When we had another local disaster (the near-collapse of the Oroville Dam in 2017), I had been volunteering for days with animals that had been evacuated from my local shelter as a precaution. When I received an emergency alert on my phone saying that everyone in my city should immediately evacuate, I was already safely out of harm’s way in a neighboring city with those evacuated animals, but my husband, one of my dogs, and my son’s dog were at home. My hands started shaking so badly and my heart started pounding so hard that took me at least a full minute to successfully press the single button to call my husband’s cell phone to tell him to grab the dogs and evacuate—and many more minutes to figure out how to reach him when he did not answer (I called my next-door neighbors, who were packing their car, and pleaded with them to run next door to tell my husband that I had been trying to reach him; he had been mowing the lawn!). I was dismayed at my reaction, as I consider myself to be calm in a crisis, but the warning was so dire that I lost functionality for a few minutes.

To repeat: When the disaster get real, know ahead of time that you won’t be thinking very well. The more that you have in place in advance of an immediate evacuation order, the better you will be able to respond.

These organizations have done a far better job than I could at listing all the things a person should do to be ready for an emergency with pets in the home. Please check them out!

Pro tip: Plan for a disaster today. Think long and hard about what you would need to evacuate with all of your pets, and put all of those supplies in one or two key places. If making a list would help you in an actual disaster, make a checklist and put it with your emergency “go bag”. Then, do an actual dry run. Set a timer and put collars on all your pets, crate the cats, and load all your pets and supplies in your vehicle. How much time did it take? Did you have everything you needed? Practice until this is smooth and flawless. .

Helping Others in a Disaster Zone

Wringing your hands and wanting to help? There are many things that those of us who are outside a disaster zone can do to help:

Fostering: A video regarding the Los Angeles fires reported that the Canine Rescue Club put out a call asking for people to take shelter dogs into foster care so they could make room for dogs displaced by the fire; they got enough foster volunteers within six minutes to house over 200 dogs who were currently in shelters. That’s wonderful—and so necessary, because many people who evacuate won’t be able to take their dogs with them and will need temporary (and free) housing for their dogs.

But part of me wondered why there were 200 dogs who could benefit from foster care in shelters prior to that call! Please, if you can and there is a responsible shelter nearby who will provide food and veterinary support, foster a shelter dog even when there is no emergency! Fostering can help the dog become acclimated to living in a home, so he’s more likely to succeed when he finds one.

Donations: Financial donations sent to the agencies that are themselves providing temporary shelter and/or veterinary care for disaster victims are the most effective thing that anyone can provide, hands down. With enough money, people whose boots are already on the ground can solve any sort of problem, but a mountain of donations sent by well-wishers can create time-consuming, volunteer-consuming, and storage-consuming problems.

One of WDJ’s veterinary contributors, Dr. Catherine Ashe, worked for weeks to provide veterinary care for victims of the flooding and landslides after Hurricane Helene last year. She also helped recruit and direct other veterinarians and vet techs to provide badly needed services for injured and displaced animals. On her personal Facebook page, Dr. Ashe repeatedly stated that the volunteer veterinary teams needed very specific items, but were instead receiving literal tons of stuff that were both not what was most needed but also a problem to organize, store, and distribute. Moral: Find organizations that are asking for help, and ask what would help most! Do not make assumptions and send whatever stuff you think they might need.

I’ve seen this plea stated elsewhere, for donations that are requested for humans displaced by fires: When donations are needed, please do not send old stuff you are not using and hope it does some good. Your outdated food or medicines and moldy, old clothes and sheets and threadbare towels are not needed or wanted! Brand-new, or freshly washed and barely used clothing, blankets, and towels are quite welcome.

When the Camp fire burned down the town of Paradise, people responded by sending a literal mountain of material for the benefit of the hundreds of dogs and cats that were being held in local emergency shelters. Unfortunately, more than half of that mountain was trash, in no way safe or useful. People dropped off giant dog beds (generous but inappropriate in this situation), and giant pillows and couch cushions for goodness sake, which are all utterly unwashable and useless once they have dog pee or poop all over them, which, in an emergency shelter situation, can happen in about five minutes but will necessarily happen overnight (most dogs in emergency shelters are held in crates and may be taken out of crates just twice a day for a few minutes by exhausted volunteers; they have no runs where they can eliminate separately. For weeks, I and my fellow volunteers filled several Dumpsters a day with wet, sodden bedding that we had no choice but to dispose of.

Also, don’t donate blankets or other textiles that have holes in them, straps, decorative dingleballs, or fabric binding—all of which pose entrapment or choking dangers to pets if used for bedding. Most useful are clean and smaller blankets. Volunteers can easily take home a load or two of fleece throw blankets to wash, but few of us had washers or dryers that could handle king- or queen-sized comforters; these all get tossed after getting soiled. Towels are the most valuable; we could always use more towels to use for bedding (especially in crates for smaller dogs and cats) and for bathing animals. Puppy potty pads in any size and form were also critically needed.

I’m always impressed by how quickly pet owners step up to help other pet owners in disasters; just make sure you are providing help that truly helps!

Here are a few links for those who wish to donate or foster:

https://give.pasadenahumane.org/give/654134/#!/donation/checkout

https://www.animalwellnessfoundation.org/

https://www.laanimalservices.com/about-fostering

https://www.redcross.org/local/california/los-angeles.html

Pannus in Dogs

The risk for pannus in dogs is higher if the dog is exposed to intense UV light, high altitude, and air pollution.
Dogs with pannus sometimes wear goggles to protect their eyes from bright light. Credit: Kate Basedow, LVT

Pannus, or chronic superficial keratitis, is a progressive eye disease that can cause blindness if not treated. This inflammatory disease affects the dog’s cornea, usually in both eyes. The severity of the disease may vary between the eyes. Pannus cannot be cured, but it can be controlled with treatment.

Signs of Pannus in Dogs

Pannus is a growth of vascular tissue over the cornea. It usually starts on the edges of the cornea and spreads into the center of the eye. It may appear to be a raised red area in the outer corner of the eye. The blood vessels cause an opaque haze. As the disease progresses, a dark brown pigment forms that blocks vision. Untreated, it can coat the entire cornea, which is how it causes blindness.

If you notice any vision problem in your dog or his eyes appear abnormal due to discharge or color changes, make a veterinary appointment to determine if the cause is an allergy or an infection. Guessing the cause of an eye problem is risky at best.

Causes of Pannus in Dogs

Pannus may be caused by environmental factors, including:

  • Air pollution
  • High altitude
  • Exposure to intense ultraviolet (UV) light

Dogs living in the Rocky Mountains are considered at higher risk, especially if they are a breed or mix with a genetic predisposition, which includes German Shepherd Dogs, Belgian Tervuren, Belgian Sheepdogs, Rottweilers, and Siberian Huskies.

Diagnosing Pannus in Dogs

Pannus generally appears in dogs about 5 to 8 years of age, although younger dogs have been diagnosed.

A regular physical examination may detect pannus. If your veterinarian suspects pannus, he or she may ask to do a few tests, like corneal staining or checking the dog’s eye pressure. If diagnosed as pannus, the dog will start on prescription eye drops or ointments that are given multiple times per day. Medication can return the eyes to normal, but if the treatment stops, the condition returns.

Treatment of Pannus in Dogs

The first line of defense is usually a corticosteroid, but many dogs will require an immunosuppressive drug such as cyclosporine (Atopica) or tacrolimus.

With treatment, the pigment often regresses, and the pannus goes into remission. Avoiding high altitude exposures and bright UV light can help. Your dog can wear protective UV goggles made for dogs. Dogs who continue to be exposed to these environmental influences may not achieve full remission.

Your dog will need checkups every couple of months to ensure the treatment is working. If so, yearly evaluations are often sufficient.

Resistant cases of pannus may need a referral to a veterinary ophthalmologist. For extreme cases, ocular injections of corticosteroids have provided some relief, as well as cyclosporine implants.

This disease is much easier to treat and control if caught early. Severe cases may never return to full vision. My daughter’s Belgian Tervuren, pictured, was diagnosed with pannus at about 4 years of age. With consistent medical treatment twice a day, her eyes look perfect, and her vision is unaffected. She participates in numerous dog sports and competitions with no visual problems. She does sometimes wear goggles, however, if she is out on the water on a bright sunny day.

WDJ’s 2025 Approved Dry Dog Foods: Search Over 1,100 Varieties

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What’s the Best Dry Dog Food? 2025’s Top Picks in 8 Categories

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best dry dog food
Though dogs have an amazing ability to do just fine if they eat enough calories, in order for your dog to thrive, he should be eating a diet with an appropriate amount of macronutrients (protein, fat, and carbohydrates) and micronutrients (vitamins and minerals). The first step in selecting a food is making sure the candidate product is formulated for your dog’s life stage. Photo credit: mjrodafotografia | Getty Images

When it’s time to buy food for your dog, how do you choose? Do you just look for something you’ve heard of before? Go with whatever they were feeding at the shelter or breeder? Shop by price? Ask your veterinarian?

Any of those selection methods might result in a good choice—or you could end up with a wildly inappropriate diet for your dog. Choosing a dog food is not a one-size-fits-all proposition! No food is “best” for all dogs; there’s not even a single pet food company whose products are ideal for all dogs!

Here’s how we choose foods—and our top picks for different types of dogs or situations. We hope that your search can be facilitated by the process we used to select our top recommended dry dog foods (and nearly 20 runners up) in eight different categories.

Start With Our Approved Dry Dog Foods List

You’re likely aware that there are hundreds of dog food companies and thousands of foods to choose from—and the vast majority are not, in our opinion, all that great. To winnow down the contenders, we’ve created a list of companies that make the kind of foods we like: “WDJ’s Approved Dry Dog Foods”. When we go shopping, we consider only foods from companies on that list.

Next, we look at the individual products made by these companies. We’ve made a spreadsheet for each product they offer and entered every bit of information about them: their complete list of ingredients, amount of protein and fat they contain, whether they are formulated for adult maintenance or can be fed to growing puppies—and if so, whether or not they can be fed to large-breed puppies, who shouldn’t consume high levels of calcium and phosphorus.

By using the spreadsheet, we can scan, sort, and compare ingredient lists. We start our search for any type of dog food by analyzing the candidates’ ingredients, looking for attributes of quality—as well as traits that tend to indicate low-quality foods.

Finally, to select the best candidates for foods for specific dogs, dogs whose needs are typical of a certain type (such as highly active dogs, fat dogs, large-breed puppies, etc.), or dogs who belong to humans with budgetary limitations or ethical qualms about buying a meat-based diet, we use more refined criteria. We’ll describe those criteria within each category of foods.
SUBSCRIBER ONLY: The Complete List of Whole Dog Journal’s 2025 Approved Dry Dog Foods

All Life Stages Dry Dog Food/Puppy Food

By law, every dog food label bears a tiny statement that tells consumers whether the product is “complete and balanced” (contains all the nutrients a dog needs in appropriate amounts). This is known as the nutritional adequacy statement or the AAFCO statement, as it references the Association of American Feed Control Officials, who developed a set of nutritional standards for puppies and pregnant or nursing females (called “growth and reproduction”), and a separate set for adult dogs (“adult maintenance”).

If the food has been formulated to meet the needs of dogs in a growth or reproduction phase, the AAFCO statement may reference “growth,” “growth and reproduction,” or “dogs of all life stages.” Growing, pregnant, and nursing dogs need more protein, fat, calcium, phosphorus, and several other minerals than adult dogs—but it’s fine for adult dogs to consume foods with these higher nutrient levels; thus the “all life stages” label.

Whether we’re looking for a food for a growing puppy or a reasonably active adult dog, we look among prospects that have moderate levels of protein. The minimum percentage of protein for growth is 20% “as fed” (how it’s listed on product labels). There is no maximum dictated by the AAFCO dog food nutrient profiles, but few foods exceed 40% protein as fed, so we’d consider 30% protein (as fed) to be moderate; we look for foods with protein levels around that number.

If the food contains supplements such as probiotics, taurine, or glycosaminoglycans (i.e., glucosamine, chondroitin), we want to see them listed on the guaranteed analysis, indicating they are present in verifiably beneficial quantities, not just token window dressing.

Whether we are shopping for a food for a puppy or adult dog, our preference is always for a product with meat and/or a meat meal in the top two ingredients; more meats in the top five or so spots on the ingredients list are even better. We also prefer legumes (such as peas, chickpeas, and lentils) to be used only in minor roles (below the 5th or 6th position on the ingredients list).

Dry Dog Foods for “Adult Maintenance”

Adult maintenance foods often contain lower levels of protein and fat than foods that are formulated to meet the needs of puppies and nursing or pregnant mothers. But, again, AAFCO has not issued maximum levels of fat or protein for any life stages, and some foods formulated for adult maintenance may contain more fat and protein than some foods for all life stages. So, when shopping for an adult maintenance food, take a peek at the protein and fat levels in any food you consider to make sure the amounts are appropriate for your dog. Less-active or overweight adult dogs don’t need foods with super high levels of protein or fat.

If you are unsure about what level of fat is appropriate for your dog, compare the caloric content of the foods you are considering. Fat contains more than twice the calories (9 per gram) of protein and carbohydrates, which each contain 4 calories per gram.

Low Fat Dry Dog Foods

The legal minimum amount of crude fat in a dry adult maintenance food is 4.95% (“as fed,” a term that means this percentage is expressed for the form of food that is in the package); for puppies, the minimum is 7.65% (as fed). In this category, we selected foods with fairly low (but not the lowest) amounts of fat for adult dogs; none of our selections would be appropriate, however, for growing puppies. The dogs who are most in need of low-fat foods are those who are inactive and sedentary, have diabetes, are overweight, have pancreatitis, or are of a breed that is genetically predisposed to pancreatitis.

Remember that dry dog foods contain protein, fat, and carbohydrates; you can’t make a kibble without carbs! When you reduce the amount of any one of those three macronutrients, one or both of the other two will rise—so some lower-fat foods will contain increased levels of protein, some will contain increased levels of carbohydrates, and some will contain increased levels of both. This is where, as always, you need to take your own dog’s unique needs into account. Does he do better on higher-protein or higher-carb foods?

Our top picks in low-fat foods reflect products that take a balanced tack, with increased amounts of protein and carbs. We didn’t select the foods with the very lowest amounts of fat that are on our Approved Dry Dog Foods list. If your dog has suffered one or more episodes of pancreatitis, you may wish to look among those products with the very lowest possible fat levels.

High Protein Dry Dog Food

To repeat, there are no established maximum values for protein in dog food. Dogs can eat and thrive on food that contains twice (or even more) than the minimum amounts of protein they require. This amount of protein is not necessary, however, and foods with high protein levels are much more expensive than lower-protein foods. That said, some dogs absolutely do better on high-protein foods than they do on foods with more moderate or lower protein levels. Particularly active dogs, fit senior dogs, and canine athletes—particularly dogs who are used in endurance or cold-weather activities—may do better on high protein foods.

We don’t generally select foods with the very highest levels of protein for our favorites; we chose foods that were among the highest 20% or so.

Limited Ingredient Dry Dog Food

There isn’t a commonly agreed-upon definition of limited-ingredient dog foods. Some manufacturers will use just five or six major ingredients (the sources of protein, fat, and carbs) in their limited-ingredient foods, while others will contain 10, 12, or more.

Usually, those of us who are considering a limited-ingredient diet are either feeding a dog who is sensitive to either known or as-yet unknown ingredients, trying to prevent aggravating a hypersensitive (allergic) response, or trying to identify which ingredients the dog can digest without triggering an adverse response. The more ingredients a food has, the harder it is to identify exactly which ingredient is troubling the dog—so our bias in selecting favorites in this category is for foods with as few major ingredients as possible.

Grain-Free Dry Dog Food

In our opinion, grain-free foods became far too popular (and for no particular reason!), which led pet food makers to search for every non-grain carbohydrate source they could find (because, again, you can’t make a kibble without carbs). Potatoes, sweet potatoes, and legumes (peas, lentils, chickpeas, and beans) were the most popular ingredients pressed into service to meet the demand for grain-free foods.

In 2018, the U.S. Food & Drug Administration started a firestorm of controversy by publishing a preliminary advisory warning of a possible link between grain-free foods and the incidence of canine dilated cardiomyopathy (DCM). Despite much study, that link has not been proven, though a link between higher rates of DCM and foods with high inclusions of legumes is still suspected. Today, we feel confident that there is no link between the broad category of “grain-free foods” and canine DCM, and that even foods with a high legume inclusion are safe for dogs as long as their maker adds adequate amounts of taurine and/or its metabolic precursors, methionine and cysteine.

Pet food makers like the higher inclusion of legumes because they can serve double duty as a carbohydrate source as well as a source of protein that is less expensive than animal protein. But the amino acid profile of animal proteins suit dogs better than plant-based proteins. So we feel most comfortable recommending grain-free foods only when they contain a relatively low inclusion of legumes, and for dogs who have a demonstrated lack of ability to thrive on foods that contain grain.

Budget Dry Dog Foods

Our “budget” foods are more expensive than the cheapest foods you can find, but that’s because the cheapest foods you can buy would be disqualified from our approved foods list by several criteria.

The least expensive foods usually use plant proteins (such as corn and peas) rather than animal proteins as their main protein sources. They often contain unnamed animal protein and fat sources (identified on the ingredients list only as “meat,” “meat meal,” or “meat and bone meal,” and “animal fat”)—or just “animal by-products or “poultry by-products.” And, finally, the least expensive foods usually contain highly processed grain by-products—waste from the human food industry. We just can’t recommend those foods.

Dry Dog Foods Containing Alternative Proteins

While they are quite rare, some dogs are hypersensitive (allergic) to all or most animal protein sources. Also, many people have ethical, moral, and/or environmental objections to raising and killing animals to feed their dogs. Fortunately for individuals of both kinds, there is an increasing number of complete diets for dogs that contain no “dead animal” sources of protein.

We’re aware of fewer than 10 foods that fit in this category. Some are vegetarian, some are vegan, and some are . . . well, we’re not quite sure what to call products that use insect sources of protein!

Note that all of these meat-free foods are formulated for adult maintenance only; none are appropriate for puppies.

SUBSCRIBER ONLY: The Complete List of Whole Dog Journal’s 2025 Approved Dry Dog Foods


Best All Life Stages Dry Dog Food

Wellness Core Digestive Health Puppy Chicken & Brown Rice

Things we like:

  • Three meats in the first six ingredients
  • Inclusion of marine micro-algae oil, a vegan source of EPA and DHA
  • Many nutrients on the guaranteed analysis, including EPA and DHA (especially beneficial for puppies) and taurine

First 10 ingredients: Deboned chicken, chicken meal, brown rice, barley, oatmeal, turkey meal, dried plain beet pulp, chicken fat, flaxseed, pumpkin

Protein: Min 31%

Fat: Min 15.5%

Calories: 421 Kcal/cup

Cost: $3.15/lb

Runners up:

  • Dr. Gary’s Puppy Recipe
  • Tender & True Small Breed Organic Turkey & Oats Recipe
  • The Honest Kitchen Whole Grain Chicken Clusters for Puppies

Best Adult Maintenance Dry Dog Food

Stella & Chewy’s Superblends Raw Blend Whitefish & Salmon Recipe

Things we like:

  • Three meats in the first six ingredients
  • Many extra nutrients on the guaranteed analysis, glucosamine, chondroitin, taurine, probiotics
  • Baked food, not extruded

First 10 ingredients: Whitefish, whitefish meal, oatmeal, barley, sunflower oil, salmon, flaxseed, tomato pomace, cod, quinoa

Protein: Min 27%

Fat: 14%

Calories: 453 Kcal/cup

Cost: $2.77/lb

Runners up:

  • Annamaet Original Ultra Chicken Meal & Brown Rice Formula
  • Nulo MedalSeries Ancient Grains Adult Beef, Barley, & Lamb Recipe
  • The Honest Kitchen Whole Grain Chicken Clusters

Best Lower-Fat Dry Dog Food

Chicken Soup for the Soul Classic Weight Care Dry Dog Food, Brown Rice, Chicken, & Turkey Recipe

Things we like:

  • Maximum % of fat also listed on guaranteed analysis
  • Though meat is not first on ingredients list, two fresh meats and two meat meals immediately follow brown rice (2nd–5th)
  • Peas play a supportive role, but not too high on ingredients list (7th)

First 10 ingredients: Whole grain brown rice, chicken, turkey, chicken meal, turkey meal, cracked pearled barley, peas, oatmeal, white rice, faba beans

Protein: Min 21%

Fat: Min 6%, Max 9%

Calories: 328 Kcal/cup

Runners up:

  • Blackwood Lean Senior Chicken Meal with Ancient Grains (Min 6.5% fat)
  • Eagle Pack Reduced Fat (Min 6% fat)
  • Grandma Mae’s Low Fat Entrée (Min 7% fat)

Best High Protein Dry Dog Food

Rawz Meal-Free Dehydrated Chicken, Turkey, & Chicken Recipe

Things we like:

  • Ingredients list starts with two dehydrated meats, then two meats, then three organ meats
  • Despite high protein, moderate fat level (12%)
  • Taurine added to formula

First 10 ingredients:  Dehydrated chicken, dehydrated deboned chicken, chicken, turkey, chicken liver, turkey liver, turkey heart, pea starch, dried peas, tapioca starch

Protein: Min 40%

Fat: Min 12%

Calories: 462 Kcal/cup

Cost: $6.65/lb

Runners up:

  • Orijen Amazing Grains Fit & Trim (U.S. Formula) (42% protein)
  • Wellness Core+Wholesome Grains Puppy (37% protein)

Best Limited Ingredient Dry Dog Food

Essence LIR Ocean Recipe

Things we like:

  • Novel protein from two species of fish (whitefish and herring) may benefit dogs with allergies to more common proteins
  • Quinoa is also a novel carb source for many dogs
  • First 10 ingredients: Whitefish, herring, whitefish meal, herring meal, quinoa, pumpkin, olive oil, dicalcium phosphate, natural whitefish flavor, calcium carbonate

Protein: Min 35%

Fat: Min 17%

Calories: 429 Kcal/cup

Cost: $4.54/lb

Runners up:

  • Earthborn Holistic Venture Turkey Meal & Pumpkin
  • Natural Balance Limited Ingredient Chicken & Brown Rice Recipe

Best Grain-Free Dry Dog Food

Petcurean Go! Solutions Carnivore Grain Free Chicken, Turkey + Duck Senior Recipe

Things we like:

  • Six meats and meat meals in the first six spots on the ingredients list
  • Several legumes, but low on ingredient list (even combined, not present in an excessive amount)
  • Added taurine

First 10 ingredients: Chicken meal, turkey meal, salmon meal, deboned chicken, deboned turkey, deboned trout, potatoes, peas, tapioca, lentils

Protein: Min 32%

Fat: Min 14%

Calories: 394 Kcal/cup

Cost: $3.68/lb

Runners up:

  • Farmina N&D Brown Lamb, Norwegian Kelp, & Carrot Recipe
  • Halo Elevate Grain-Free Red Meat Recipe Adult

Best Budget Dry Food

Triumph Wild Spirit Chicken & Brown Rice Recipe

Things we like:

  • Deboned meat (a lower-ash ingredient) and a meat meal 1st and 2nd on ingredients
  • Many extra nutrients (including probiotics) on the guaranteed analysis

First 10 ingredients: Deboned chicken, chicken meal, ground brown rice, pearled barley, oat groats, rice bran, chicken fat, dried plain beet pulp, flaxseed meal, natural chicken flavor

Protein: Min 25%

Fat: Min 15%

Calories: 362 Kcal/cup

Cost: $2.33/lb

Runners up:

  • Chicken Soup for the Soul Classic Adult Dry Dog Food Chicken, Turkey, & Brown Rice Recipe ($1.96/lb)
  • Wellness Complete Health Deboned Chicken & Oatmeal ($2.31/lb)

Best Alternative Proteins Dry Dog Food

Jiminy’s Good Grub

Things we like:

  • Eco-friendly, humane, sustainable formula
  • Grub protein is highly digestible and prebiotic (helps feed beneficial bacteria in the gut)
  • Baked, not extruded

First 10 ingredients: Dried black soldier fly larvae, oats, dried yeast, sweet potato, potato protein, sunflower oil, brown rice, dried plain beet pulp, dicalcium phosphate, natural vegetable flavor

Protein: Min 28%

Fat: Min 14%

Calories: 426 Kcal/cup

Cost: $4.12/lb

Runners up:

  • Natural Balance Vegetarian Recipe (protein sources are peas and potato protein)
  • Open Farm Kind Earth Premium Insect Kibble Recipe (protein sources are black soldier fly larvae and dried yeast)

Raw Bones for Dogs

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Raw bones for dogs can be a tasty treat. However, they can also cause dental injuries and gastric obstructions.
There are pros and cons to giving your dog raw bones. Along with sourcing fresh, properly-sized, uncooked bones, consider your individual dog and the potential health risks before letting her have one. Credit: mikedabell | Getty Images

People have been giving raw meaty bones to dogs ever since the two species teamed up as hunters and companions. In the 20th century, the convenience of commercial canned food and kibble took precedence in the canine diet, but many people continue to give raw bones for recreational chewing, dental benefits, or as part of a raw diet.

However, there’s disagreement on whether it’s safe or beneficial to give raw bones to dogs. Veterinarians generally recommend against them, having treated dogs with broken teeth, obstructions or intestinal perforations related to chewing or ingesting bones. Most owners who give them cite dental and mental benefits. Here’s what to consider about raw bones for dogs.

Pros of Raw Bones for Dogs

Chewing on bones can do a great job of removing plaque and tartar off teeth, keeping fangs gleaming and breath fresh. That’s more than a cosmetic benefit. Plaque is a soft biofilm and makes a cozy home base for bacteria to attack the gums, inflaming them and causing damage to periodontal tissues. The mouth is the gateway to the rest of the body, and studies have established a statistically significant association between periodontal disease and cardiac, kidney, and liver disease in dogs.

Dog lovers who give bones say chewing aids dental health and reduces the necessity for professional veterinary cleanings, which can be expensive. Chewing bones also provides a mental and physical workout for dogs, especially dogs who are “busy” and food-oriented.

Cindy Steinle has American Bulldogs, notorious for poor dental health. Chewing marrow bones keeps her dogs’ teeth clean and their minds occupied, she says.

Risks of Eating Bones

Veterinarians, who see the different ways bones can go wrong, usually aren’t fans.

“I’m sure for every thousand dogs that get those bones, there’s only one or two that have a problem, but it’s an avoidable problem,” says Tony Johnson, DVM, DACVECC, an emergency and critical care specialist in Chicago.

Physical hazards include shards that can poke into the mouth or tongue or pierce the esophagus, cause choking, or perforate or obstruct the stomach or intestines. Broken teeth and constipation are additional concerns. And there’s no way to predict if or when a dog will have a problem with bones.

Collie owner Rosemary George used to give her dogs lamb femurs, but the approach of Hurricane Sandy in 2012 coincided with one of her dogs exhibiting worrisome signs of what appeared to be bloat or an intestinal blockage. “Because everything was shut down in advance of the hurricane, we had to go to an emergency clinic that had a generator in case power was lost,” she says. “Everything ended up all right in the end. It wasn’t bloat and they were able to clear the blockage of bone fragments without surgery, but I was unable to pick him up for two days because of the hurricane and its aftermath. That turned out to be a very, very expensive lamb femur.”

Having something to chew is certainly important, says Ross Massimiano, DVM. “The chewing action can help keep teeth cleaner. I think of chewing as brushing, in a way, for dogs. Something to chew is important to have.”

He’d just prefer that it not be a natural bone. Besides the aforementioned risks, he worries about environmental contamination in homes with children, women who are pregnant, or individuals who are immunocompromised.

The increasing incidence of avian influenza (H5N1) in cattle and cats also has him concerned about canine exposure to raw meaty beef bones. While currently cats—both domestic and wild—are at far greater risk of avian influenza than dogs, Dr. Massimiano worries that a random mutation could affect dogs as well.

Choosing Raw Bones for Dogs

When giving bones, take into account the dog’s temperament, size, health, and lifestyle. Here’s what to know about choosing the right ones for your dog and where to get them.

The first thing to consider is how your dog eats. Gulpers may simply not do well with bones. They’re not going to get the dental or meditative benefits and may be more prone to choking.

Bones should be larger than the dog’s mouth so there’s no possibility of the dog swallowing them. Pay attention to how much the dog gnaws away over time and toss them when they get too small.

Avoid giving bones to dogs who are immunocompromised. That means very young dogs, who don’t have fully developed immune systems; dogs undergoing chemotherapy or steroid treatment or with chronic health conditions; and senior or geriatric dogs, who may have weakened immune systems or poor dental health.

Give recreational bones separately from meals and only when you’re able to consciously supervise chewing. Take them up after about 10 minutes (before you get bored), clean them, and freeze until the next use.

Types of dog bones that generally come to mind for recreational chewing are marrow and knuckle bones, especially if they still have attached meat, cartilage, fat, and connective tissue. They are sometimes referred to as “wreck bones,” though, for the broken teeth and other injuries they can cause.

Labrador owner Linda Rehkopf used to give her dogs raw marrow bones. Then one day her dog Story flipped a marrow bone over her bottom canines and around her jaw, like a donut. At the veterinary clinic, she put Story in a stand-stay and gave a “watch me” cue while the veterinarian chipped away at the bone with a bolt cutter. Afterward, the veterinarian advised no longer giving marrow bones unless they were longer than four inches.

If they’re the right size and the dog is supervised while chewing, marrow bones have some advantages. “They maintain scent and flavor, they’re washable, refillable and reusable, and they can be frozen,” Steinle says. “When you’re done with them, toss them in the garbage. They’re biodegradable, as well.”

When her pet-sitting clients ask about giving bones, Steinle suggests knuckle or marrow bones because it’s easier to monitor dogs chewing on them, but she recommends that people ease into giving them. Knuckles, in particular, require an adjustment period because more tissue remains on them, she says.

The fat in marrow-filled bones can cause diarrhea. Remove most of it before giving the bone, leaving only a small amount to entice the dog.

Heather Houlahan, who has English Shepherds running her small Pennsylvania farm, prefers to give soft, non-weight-bearing bones that the dog gnaws and consumes fully. Those types of bones include duck necks, chicken backs, and venison, sheep, and goat ribs. The bones are part of a varied homemade diet of meat and organs, vegetables, grains, kibble, canned dog food, and canned fish.

Unless, like Houlahan, you do your own butchering and hunting, the best source for raw meaty bones for dogs is from a butcher. Even if you don’t shop at a local butcher, the meat department at your grocery store may be able to provide you with the type of bones you’re looking for and grind chicken necks or backs for you.

Never give cooked or dried bones. They become brittle and are more likely to splinter and cause injury. Dr. Johnson is also not a fan of synthetic bones or rawhides, saying they have the same risk of causing choking or obstructions as raw bones. “My favorite toy is something that can’t be ingested at all, and my favorite treat is something that can be completely ingested,” he says. “Anything in between, you’re just asking for trouble.”

Proper Handling of Raw Bones

One of the arguments against giving bones is the risk of handling raw meat and transmission of food-borne pathogens. Take the same precautions you would in preparing hamburgers or roast chicken for yourself:

*Refrigerate or freeze raw bones until you give them.

*Use a cutting board that is reserved for use with your dogs’ food.

*Sanitize counters or cutting boards that bones have touched.

*Wash your hands thoroughly with soap and water after handling bones or raw meat. (This is especially important with poultry, which often carries salmonella bacteria.)

*Give bones outdoors or in an area that can be easily cleaned afterward.

Additional Safety Tips

  • If your dog is new to bones, start slowly. For kibble-fed dogs, it can take time for their digestive system to adjust to the additional meat and fat.
  • Encourage dogs to take their time chewing. Overly aggressive chewers may attempt to swallow bones.
  • Avoid giving bones to dogs with severe periodontal disease. Chewing bones may be painful for them and they may be more prone to broken teeth, leading to infection, reluctance to eat, or tooth loss.
  • Supervise, especially if your dog tends to gulp food without chewing. That behavior may carry over to bone chewing.
  • Don’t let dogs crunch up bones and eat them. That’s when bone fragments can become wedged painfully between teeth or bone impactions and intestinal obstructions or perforations are likely to occur. Don’t hesitate to take your dog to the veterinarian if you suspect an obstruction or perforation. Signs of problems include unusual lethargy, vomiting, and diarrhea.
  • To prevent fights or guarding behavior, never give bones to multiple dogs in the same area. Crate them in separate rooms or otherwise separate them.
  • If your dog has food- or toy-guarding tendencies, it’s best not to give bones at all.

Lots of people give their dogs raw meaty bones with no ill effects and plenty of benefits. Consider your ability to recognize and handle a problem, including financially, and proceed accordingly.

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