Mites come in all shapes and sizes and all are capable of causing difficulties for your dog, but practically speaking there are three types of mites that are by far the most common. Two are the skin mites Sarcoptesand Demodex and the third is the ear mite Otodectes.
What do dog mites look like?
An infection of Sarcoptes mites is responsible for what’s known as sarcoptic mange. Of the three types of mite infections, this is the most difficult to definitively diagnose, despite the dramatic symptoms. What do Sarcoptes mites look like on a dog? Dogs with sarcoptic mange are typically extremely itchy and exhibit scaly skin and severe hair loss.
Like Sarcoptes, Demodex mites cause scaly skin and hair loss on a dog and is also quite itchy, although usually less itchy than Sarcoptes.
Ear mites, Otodectes, reside almost exclusively in the dog’s ear canal. They cause itchiness in the dog’s ear and a foul odor.
How is a mite infection diagnosed?
Even when a dog is severely infected with Sarcoptes, veterinarians may perform multiple skin scrapes – using a blade to scrape a sample of skin to examine under a microscope for the presence of mites – without ever getting a positive result. This is because sarcoptic mites tend to burrow deeply into the skin.
A simple test veterinarians often utilize (and that you can try at home) is to vigorously rub the flap of your dog’s ear. If he reacts by enthusiastically scratching with his hind leg – a behavior known as the pinnal-pedal reflex – it’s almost certainly an infection with Sarcoptes.
Sarcoptes is very contagious to both dogs and other mammals. These mites may even bite you. The good news is they won’t set up residence on your body, they’ll just visit for a quick bite to eat.
The second type of skin mite you’ll see on a dog, Demodex, is relatively easy to diagnose with a skin scrape and is not contagious. Demodectic mange (the term for hair loss and irritated skin caused by an infection with Demodex) is most common in dogs under the age of two.
Many people are horrified to learn that while Demodex is not contagious, they may already have the mites living on their pets’ or their own skin! The immune systems of most dogs (and humans) prevent mite populations from ballooning to the point that they cause unwelcome symptoms. This is why the mite is most commonly found on dogs who are chronically unwell or on young dogs with underdeveloped immune systems.
Ear mites, Otodectes, can cause extreme itchiness, but in this case, the itch is in the dog’s ear. The most common signs are persistent head shaking and ear scratching. Most dogs also develop a foul odor in the ear. Like Sarcoptes, ear mites are very contagious and all pets in the household should be treated.
How to get rid of mites on dogs
It is easy to find home remedies for dog mites online; most commonly cited remedies involve apple cider vinegar, olive oil, and aloe vera. I understand the desire to keep treatments natural, but feel I would be doing a disservice to recommend any of them. I have never seen a dog successfully treated for mites with a home remedy and I have treated a plethora of home remedy failures. It’s also important to note that the signs of mites are similar to other skin diseases such as bacterial infections, so it would be wise to schedule a visit to your veterinarian, so she can diagnose and appropriately treat your dog’s itchy, irritated skin.
The easiest and least costly treatment to eliminate mites from your dog’s skin or ears would be a therapeutic trial using a flea and tick preventative that is also effective against all three forms of mange. These products require a veterinary prescription, but most veterinarians will okay a request for a standard anti-parasitic treatment if your dog has an ongoing relationship with their clinic. As a bonus, these products will work well for the less-common mites as well. Effectiveness against mange is not on the label, but these products are routinely used by veterinarians for that purpose. This is very good news, since before the advent of these monthly treatments, dogs with skin mange were often subjected to repeated toxic and foul-smelling dips.
You may want to try to save some money and ask your veterinarian for the mite treatment without an appointment; this path will successfully treat a mite infestation in your dog, but if your home diagnosis is incorrect, you’re still going to have an itchy dog on your hands. The second option is to go straight to your veterinarian and get a definitive diagnosis. A key factor in deciding which path to take is your dog’s level of discomfort. If he’s relatively comfortable, there’s really no reason not to try a monthly parasite preventative first (i.e., Bravecto or NexGard) as they are safe and have the added benefit of protecting your dog against fleas and ticks.
If you do decide to try a monthly preventative, consider treating all the dogs in your home since without a definitive diagnosis, you won’t know whether or not you’re dealing with a contagious infestation.
The other day the New York Times published an excerpt from canine behavioral researcher and author Alexandra Horowitz’s newest and most excellent book, The Year of the Puppy: How Dogs Become Themselves, (Viking, 2022). The excerpt was about canine adolescence, a period of a dog’s life that Horowitz calls “woefully understudied by researchers and often completely ignored by dog people.” I was thrilled to read this, because often, owners are unprepared for this phase and shocked by the changing moods and needs of their new dog.
Perhaps because of the greater emphasis on the changing nutritional needs of a growing and then adult dog, it seems like the whole world divides the stages in dog lives into two, and perhaps three major categories, each with specific challenges. There’s puppyhood, when we are carefully managing the puppy’s diet (so as to provide him with precise nutrition for a just-right rate of growth, neither too fast nor too slow), as well as managing the puppy’s environment and setting behavioral expectations. Usually, folks then skip right to adulthood, when dogs are frequently switched to “adult maintenance” diets and expected to have achieved a certain standard of civilized behavior. Sometimes, the nutritional and medical needs of the senior dog are also given separate consideration.
But few people talk about the phase of a dog’s life that humans find the most challenging and frustrating: the “teenager” phase, when the behaviors that our adorable puppies have been performing on cue for months suddenly seem to be missing from our adolescent dogs’ memory; when the dog who, since adoption, has cheerfully greeted humans of every size, shape, and color begins barking, growling, or even lunging at strangers; and when so-called “nuisance” behaviors like escaping confinement, barking, fence-fighting, and chewing furniture start emerging.
It’s no coincidence that more dogs are surrendered to shelters at this phase of a dog’s life than any other. People who were prepared for this phase sometimes find themselves wondering if they made a big mistake in adopting; people who spontaneously brought a puppy home without preparation often bail on their responsibility for the dog’s well-being at this time. The dog is no longer cute and easy; without good management and training, he can seriously disrupt people’s lives, even cost them a marriage or housing!
My foster-fail puppy Boone is right there: 9 months old, gangly as all-get out – and no longer the pudgy puppy who was content in confinement as long as he had something to chew on. Now he knows there is a whole world of action and fun he’s missing out on when he’s been left in my office or the outdoor dog pen while I go on a bike ride, and he objects! If he sees so much as my bike helmet come out of the closet before I’ve put him in temporary safe custody, he’s learned to be wary of being lured into said enclosures. Or rather, he’ll go, while looking for the fresh bone I took out of the freezer that I generally lock him up with – but he’s not past trying to dash out the door with the bone if I’m inattentive while leaving the enclosure myself. That’s not a witless puppy’s move, nor a responsible adult dog tactic; that’s a teenager’s ill-advised stratagem!
Fortunately, WDJ has plenty of articles we’ve published in the past about this fraught phase of a dog’s life – or, I should say, the fraught phase in the dog/human relationship (dogs probably don’t perceive the phase as a problem; it’s their owners that do). I’ve been reviewing them myself, and they are extremely informative. If you have a dog in the adolescent phase – approximately, between about 6 months and 2 years old – you might want to read some of these helpful and encouraging articles. If you can continue to guide your dog through this developmental phase with patience, humor, and understanding, you’ll end up with the best dog ever. I know, because I’ve done it at least twice so far, and I couldn’t love the results any more.
Is mango good for dogs? This luscious powerhouse contains vitamins A,C, B, and E, plus lots of fiber. When they are ripe, it’s hard to beat their healthy and sweet appeal. The best part is you can feel free to share some mango chunks with your dog – as long as you prepare it properly.
Don’t feed the whole mango to your dog
This healthy snack needs to be prepared for your dog pretty much the same way as you would for yourself: carefully peeled, pit removed, and cut into bite-sized chunks. The peel and pit especially present choking hazards to those dogs who scarf down their food. One-inch cubes are suitable for larger dogs, whereas smaller dogs should be fed chunks half that size.
Keep in mind that there is a lot of fiber and sugar in this fruit, so go easy at first and don’t overdo it (besides, that means there’s more mango for you!). Feeding one-quarter of a cup of mango chunks is a safe amount for most dogs, but you should scale down the amount for toy breeds.
Can dogs eat dried or frozen mangoes?
Like a lot of tropical fruits, the mango is best enjoyed at the peak of ripeness. The timing can be tricky, however, so on a hot day, a good substitute can be frozen mango chunks found in the freezer section of your grocery store. This is a fun outdoor activity for a mouthy dog when the temperatures rise. Dried mangos (or any dried fruits, for that matter) should not be fed to dogs, as they are extremely high in sugar.
If you have a dog with a health condition that requires a special diet, it’s important to refrain from providing treats (even healthy treats like mangos) without first seeking your veterinarian’s approval.
Puppies who contract parvovirus don’t get just a little sick; their loss of energy and appetite are dramatic. They quickly become dangerously dehydrated (due to vomiting and diarrhea) and are in evident pain from the inflammation in their digestive tract. Photo by Cavanigerman/ Dreamstime.com
Canine parvovirus type 2 (also known as CPV, CPV2, or just “parvo”) has been sickening and killing dogs and puppies since 1976, the year it first emerged in dogs. The illness caused by the virus, characterized by severe vomiting, bloody diarrhea, and lethargy, first affected dogs in Europe. Within two years, however, the virus had spread throughout the world. Uncountable thousands of puppies and dogs who were infected with parvovirus died before the parvovirus vaccine was developed that could prevent the disease.
The market introduction of the parvo vaccine in 1979 and release of an improved vaccine in 1981 relieved dog owners worldwide; finally, there was protection available to prevent the deadly disease. But puppies and dogs who are exposed to the virus before being fully immunized against it still run a strong risk of becoming infected and fatally ill.
Parvo symptoms
The signature symptom of parvo in dogs is severe gastroenteritis (inflammation in the stomach and intestines), which causes vomiting and diarrhea that is often profuse, liquid, bloody, and foul-smelling, and a loss of appetite. Affected dogs and puppies will exhibit extreme lethargy (lack of energy and enthusiasm).
Parvo in puppies usually hits hard and fast. Puppies with parvo are not likely to be acting fine except for diarrhea. They usually look pretty pathetic, sad, and act like they feel awful. They frequently have fevers and abdominal pain. They quickly become dehydrated and sometimes anemic, which makes them sicker and weaker. The younger the puppy, the harder it hits. By the time they are presented to a veterinary hospital, many puppies are in shock (a life-threatening emergency where blood flow is impeded, leading to organ shutdown and death).
Unvaccinated adult dogs can get parvo, too. But because adult dogs have stronger immunity and better mechanisms to fight dehydration and shock, they usually recover more quickly and generally have a better prognosis than puppies, although it can still be fatal.
How do dogs get parvo?
In order to contract parvovirus, an unprotected dog or puppy has to come into contact with feces from an infected dog. The virus gets into the dog through the nose and mouth; a puppy or dog can get it from sniffing, licking, or eating the feces of an infected dog – or just stepping in it and then licking their paws.
The virus is very hardy. It can live for months to years in the environment, which means contaminated surfaces, bowls, and toys are threats. Many disinfectants are ineffective against parvovirus, but diluted bleach kills the virus if left on the infected items for at least 10 minutes.
It’s a common practice to put a puppy in a shopping cart when taking her to a pet supply store, in an effort to keep her from walking on the potentially virus-contaminated store floor. The reality is, though, that the floor is probably cleaned more often than those carts; if a sick puppy with vomit or diarrhea on her paw was in that cart before your pup, your puppy could be at risk. It’s safer to just keep those not-yet-fully vaccinated puppies out of the store altogether. Photo by Capuski, Getty Images.
Stages of parvo
An unvaccinated or incompletely immunized dog or puppy will experience a predictable series of symptoms after being exposed to parvovirus.
Exposure (Infection)
The time from the first stage – exposure (infection) – to the onset of clinical signs is the incubation period. With parvovirus, the incubation period is about seven to 14 days. This long incubation period means when you buy or adopt a new puppy, if he’s been exposed to parvovirus, he may seem perfectly healthy and show no signs of illness for up to 14 days.
Incubation Period
Though your dog may seem perfectly well, during the incubation period, the virus is rapidly multiplying and spreading. It attacks the bone marrow, the lining of the intestines, and sometimes even the heart muscle. When the puppy starts showing signs of the disease, take the puppy to a veterinary hospital, where a test for the virus will be done to confirm the diagnosis. The test can be run in the hospital, so you will have results right away.
Illness
If your puppy tests positive, your veterinarian will run additional tests that help dictate treatment and predict prognosis. After discussing test results, treatment options, and prognosis, treatment begins.
Recovery
The final stage of parvo is recovery. Full recovery once your puppy is out of the hospital and out of danger usually takes a week or so, starting with small, frequent, highly digestible meals, gradually returning to his regular diet and schedule.
Treatment for parvovirus
Treatment for parvo consists of supportive care while the immune system fights off the virus. During this time, the owner must monitor the dog carefully and report any worsening symptoms, such as vomiting, depression, or increasingly liquid diarrhea.
The most important aspect of treatment is fluid therapy; this rehydrates the patient, corrects dangerous electrolyte imbalances, and treats shock. The most severely affected patients will always require at least initial admittance to the hospital for intravenous fluid administration.
Once the initial crisis has been corrected, fluid therapy in some form remains an important aspect of ongoing daily treatment until the vomiting and diarrhea stops, but may be administered under the skin (subcutaneously). The profuse watery diarrhea caused by parvovirus will continue to cause life-threatening dehydration until it resolves, and this can take several days.
Antibiotics are another important aspect of parvo treatment. Puppies frequently die from sepsis, a life-threatening condition caused by bacteria spread throughout the body. Parvovirus damages the intestines, and bacteria from the intestines can “leak” into the bloodstream, ending up everywhere in the body. Preventing sepsis and/or aggressively treating it are critical to a successful outcome.
Pain medication and anti-vomiting medications (antiemetics) are important both for your puppy’s comfort and for shortening overall treatment time. The sooner the puppy can tolerate oral liquids and food, the shorter the healing time will be. Getting nutrients into the gut as early as possible is so important to a good outcome that feeding tubes are recommended for pups who don’t feel well enough to eat on their own yet.
Common complicating medical issues that must be monitored for and corrected include low blood sugar, low potassium, and low albumin (a circulating protein important for fluid balance in the body).
Outpatient treatment for parvovirus
Many puppies with parvo require aggressive treatment for five to seven days or even longer. While inpatient treatment is still considered the gold standard of care, a lengthy hospital stay like that can be costly. It is unfortunately out of the financial realm of possibility for many puppy owners, which is why some veterinarians offer outpatient parvo puppy treatment.
To qualify for outpatient treatment, a puppy must be early in the course of the disease, only mildly to moderately dehydrated, and still alert and responsive. Puppies who are further into the disease when presented, already super sick and maybe septic will not do well as outpatients. The puppy must also have an owner who is willing and able to invest the time and energy necessary for the intensive nursing care these pups require.
Regardless, though, treatment for all puppies should start with hospitalization for intravenous fluids to restore hydration and correct any blood sugar and electrolyte abnormalities. Antiemetics and antibiotics will be given by injection. The outpatient puppy can usually be released to home after four to six hours of this initial treatment.
While individual veterinary protocols will vary, they all require a once-daily visit to the veterinary hospital so the pup’s condition can be evaluated by a veterinary professional and testing for complicating issues can be performed. Daily fluids and electrolytes can be given subcutaneously. Assuming vomiting is controlled, oral treatments for low sugar and low potassium and any other necessary medications can be administered by the owner at home. The owner can also start oral nutrition, with veterinary guidance, as soon as possible.
Puppies who decline in any way, continue to vomit, remain dehydrated, or refuse to eat should be disqualified from the outpatient protocol. If this pup is to survive, bumping him back up to the gold standard of inpatient care and treatment will be necessary.
If your puppy thrives as a parvo outpatient with guidance from your veterinarian – as well as your dedication and excellent care – congratulations! You have likely saved yourself thousands of dollars and your puppy’s life.
How to prevent parvo
The parvovirus vaccine is the mainstay of prevention of this disease. It is highly effective against the virus. It is rare for an appropriately vaccinated dog or puppy to come down with parvo.
Puppies should be vaccinated every three to four weeks, starting at 6 to 8 weeks of age until they reach 16 to 20 weeks of age. As young adults, a booster is recommended initially annually, then every three years.
Additional preventive measures you can take to prevent parvovirus include:
If possible, get a puppy from a vaccinated mom. She will give her pups temporary immunity through her colostrum (first milk).
Limit your pup’s exposure until fully vaccinated. This does not mean keeping him in a bubble; that would make him miss out on critical socialization and confidence-building opportunities when they are the most important (see companion post, “Balancing Dual Threats”).
Just use common sense; avoid areas where unvaccinated dogs are likely to be, such as strays, and watch where your puppy is sniffing, since the virus is found in feces. Pick the puppy up and don’t allow him to touch the floor in high-risk environments, like the veterinarian’s waiting room or at highly trafficked pet supply store or public park.
The bottom line on parvo? There’s good news and bad news. The bad news: Without treatment, almost all infected puppies will die. The good news: With treatment – even outpatient treatment – most puppies will survive. Survival rates are as high as 90% for inpatients, and more than 80% for outpatient puppies.
The best news of all? Parvovirus is easily prevented by vaccination.
Did you know that the color and condition of your dog’s gums can give you important clues about her health? Paying attention to these indicators can help you recognize and respond to a variety of canine health problems.
Identify What’s Normal and “Healthy” For Your Dog’s Gums
Regularly check your dog’s gums to understand what’s normal for them and to detect any gum issues when they arise. Lift your dog’s upper lip and check the gum above a canine tooth. This color is your dog’s gum-health baseline, so check it often.
What Color Should Dog Gums Be?
Most healthy dogs have pink gums, but some breeds naturally have dark or black pigment in their gums or the roof of the mouth. The pink of healthy gums is often described as light, powdery, bubblegum, or the color of cooked shrimp.
If your dog’s gums are naturally black, dark, or heavily pigmented, color changes will be harder to detect. Instead, check your dog’s inner eyelids by gently pulling the eyelid down so you can see the color of the eyelid tissue.
You can check your dog’s hydration level by running your finger over the gums, which should be slick, smooth, slippery, or wet, not dry, tacky, or sticky.
Check The Capillary Refill Time Of Your Dog’s Gums
The capillary refill time (CRT) of your dog’s gums can detect illness or dehydration.
To check your dog’s CRT, gently press the gum with an index finger. When you release the pressure, the gum will be white or pale pink, and its normal color should return in 1.5 seconds or less. This return to natural color after you press on the gum is called the capillary refill time.
A slow CRT, such as 2 seconds or more, can reflect dehydration, poor circulation, low blood pressure, or shock. Shock is the most serious of these conditions. If dehydration symptoms are minor, increase your dog’s water consumption. Serious dehydration requires medical treatment such as subcutaneous fluids.
All of the following are serious conditions that require medical attention:
Blue gums reflect a lack of oxygen in the dog’s blood supply (cyanosis). Pneumonia, congestive heart failure, pulmonary thromboembolism, choking, hypothermia, and other health emergencies can cause this discoloration. A dog with blue gums needs immediate medical attention.
Pale pink or white gums are a danger sign, reflecting acute blood loss or diseases that cause anemia.
Bright cherry red gums can indicate overheating or heat stroke, carbon monoxide poisoning, elevated blood pressure, or exposure to toxins. All of these require medical attention. For heat stroke, in addition to contacting your veterinarian, act fast to drizzle cool water over the dog, offer water to drink, wet the paws with cold water, and drape a cool wet towel around the head.
Slightly red gums can reflect topical irritation, such as that seen in the aftermath of enthusiastically chewing a new toy, or a mouth infection such as gingivitis. These aren’t medical emergencies, but monitor the symptom and check with your veterinarian if it continues.
Bleeding gums, especially after brushing or vigorous chewing, could result from gingivitis, growths in the mouth, or sensitivity. Emergency treatment may be needed If bleeding lasts more than 10 minutes.
Yellow gums can reflect liver problems, anemia, and/or the destruction of red blood cells.
You don't have to keep puppies at home until they are fully vaccinated, but they shouldn't be taken to or walked in high-traffic areas until they are fully immunized, either. Public sidewalks in neighborhoods with lots of dogs are too risky for a puppy who is less than 20 weeks and not yet fully vaccinated. Photo by Glasshouse Images / Getty Images.
Puppies who are born to mothers who have been vaccinated against parvovirus and who have had an ample opportunity to nurse in the first day or two after birth will receive infection-fighting antibodies from their mothers. This “passive immune transfer” of maternally derived antibodies should protect them in the first few weeks after birth from an unlucky encounter with the parvovirus antigen.
These maternal antibodies gradually fade from the puppy’s system over the first few months of his life, and as they do so, they leave him vulnerable – unprotected from any viral antigens. That’s why we administer vaccinations to puppies starting at around 6 weeks of age; it’s an attempt to prompt his immune system to develop its own protective, virus-fighting antibodies as soon as his body is capable of doing so, and at the time his maternally derived antibodies ceased to protect him.
What happens if we administer his vaccinations when there are maternal antibodies still circulating in his system? Those antibodies will quickly recognize and neutralize the disease antigens in the vaccination – zap! The puppy’s immune system won’t be able to develop an adequate supply of its own antibodies from the very brief exposure it might have had to the antigens present in the vaccine because of what’s called “maternal antibody interference.”
The potential of this interference is why we vaccinate puppies several times over the first few months of their lives – because the maternal antibodies he may possess are capable of neutralizing the first few vaccinations he receives. And since the fading of the maternal antibodies happens at a variable time in each puppy – anywhere between 4 weeks and about 18 weeks of age – we vaccinate the pup several times, a few weeks apart. Repeat vaccinations are meant to reduce the window of opportunity between the degradation of the maternally derived antibodies and the development of his own vaccine-induced antibodies for viruses to infect him.
Read our companion article, “What is Parvovirus in Dogs,” to learn more about parvovirus, a deadly illness among puppies that can be prevented with the highly effective parvovirus vaccine.
Keep Him At Home?
It used to be standard veterinary advice to keep puppies at home until they had received a vaccination after they were 18 to 20 weeks old (the “last of their puppy shots”). This advice was meant to prevent them from having any chance of coming into contact with the most common and dangerous viruses during a potential gap in antibody protection.
That’s a very safe recommendation as far as disease prevention goes – but, according to veterinary behavior experts, a downright disaster for the puppy’s social development. According to a position paper issued by the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior (AVSAB), protecting the puppy’s behavioral health by properly socializing her before she is “fully vaccinated” should be the higher priority. The position paper says:
“The primary and most important time for puppy socialization is the first three months of life. During this time puppies should be exposed to as many new people, animals, stimuli, and environments as can be achieved safely and without causing over-stimulation manifested as excessive fear, withdrawal or avoidance behavior. For this reason, the AVSAB believes that it should be the standard of care for puppies to receive such socialization before they are fully vaccinated.
“Behavioral problems are the greatest threat to the owner-dog bond. In fact, behavioral problems are the number one cause of relinquishment to shelters. Behavioral issues, not infectious diseases, are the number one cause of death for dogs under three years of age.
“While puppies’ immune systems are still developing during these early months, the combination of maternal immunity, primary vaccination, and appropriate care makes the risk of infection relatively small compared to the chance of death from a behavior problem.”
Today, we know how to help the puppies develop healthy behavioral skills and keep their exposure to disease antigens minimal. We do this by using carefully selected environments – such as private homes and well-managed, clean dog training centers – to expose vaccinated puppies (who may or may not have complete immunization, depending on their own immune development) to other humans, vaccinated dogs, and similarly well-managed puppies. We also vaccinate puppies at appropriate intervals until they are after the age of 20 weeks. This “safe socialization” should only minimally increase the puppy’s risk of viral infection, but will be highly protective of his healthy behavioral development.
Photo by Kathy Callahan. This piece is in honor of the Callahan family’s dog Nala, who passed away at 13 years of age last summer.
So that you don’t have regrets later, here’s a quick public service announcement: Remember to appreciate your no-trouble-at-all dog! Sometimes our most naturally easy dogs end up being a little bit ignored precisely because they are wonderful to live with. Is that happening at your house?
Just yesterday I had yet another client articulate their ah-ha moment: “Oh my gosh, I’m feeling so guilty since we got the new puppy. Now that we’re working so hard training and entertaining the puppy, I’m realizing that it has been years since our good old boy has had a bully stick! And sure, we used to train with him – he loved it – but that just dwindled away because he’s really so easy to have around…”
I hear it all the time. So do your future self a favor and remember to appreciate that gift of a soul lying sweetly at your feet, day after day.
Just because you don’t need to give her a stuffed Toppl to keep her from destroying the house doesn’t mean she wouldn’t enjoy one.
Just because she doesn’t need a three-mile walk to be civilized for the day doesn’t mean she wouldn’t love that.
Just because she doesn’t jump all over you and you never need to ask her to sit, doesn’t mean she wouldn’t have an amazing time training and learning tricks with you.
Just because she isn’t pawing at you and getting constantly underfoot to make you sit and snuggle with her doesn’t mean she isn’t quietly wishing you’d get down and cuddle with her…
It’s not all about the “problem dog”
Most dog trainers have a story about the difficult dog who landed them on the road to this profession. The more issues there are, the more tools you need at your disposal. The result? You dive into training and enrichment, and end up super bonded to that challenging dog because that’s what extra time and engagement will do to a relationship.
So what of our dear, easy friends? The ones who’ll spend years just calmly hanging out in the house, demanding nothing? The ones watching us head out to a training class with our “difficult” dog, treat pouch in hand? This is just a little nudge to remember that each dog’s life is short, and while you may have many dogs in your lifetime, your dog just has this lifetime, and you.
A dozen years from now, you’ll be glad if you made sure to end every day with a little special time alone with that one no-trouble-at-all friend, gazing into her eyes and telling her you’re so very glad she’s here.
Learn how to identify the best canned dog foods that are available at your local pet supply store – and to choose the ones that are right for your dog.
To build the list, we start by looking for companies who make products that meet our selection criteria:
Good canned dog foods should have an animal protein source or sources in at least one of the top two spots on the list of ingredients. Water or broth may also be first or second on the list, as water is often added as necessary for processing. But the animal proteins should appear immediately after that. The amino acid profiles offered by animal proteins suit dogs better than the amino acid profiles from peas, potatoes, corn, soy, etc.
Canned food is a particularly good way to buy and store meat for your dog. It’s shelf-stable and can last for years; you don’t have to use it quickly (except after opening the can) or keep it cold (except after opening).
We look for whole, named sources of animal protein. “Whole” means meat, rather than meat-by-products, and “named” means you want to see “beef,” “chicken,” “lamb,” etc., rather than “meat.”
If plant proteins are present in the food, we’d like to see them play a minor role, appearing lower on the ingredient list – lower than the fifth or sixth position.
When vegetables, fruits, grains, and/or other carbohydrate sources are used, we’d like to see them present whole as opposed to a “fraction” or by-product. For example, we’d rather see “whole brown rice” than “rice flour.” By-products and fractions are often ingredients that are waste from human food manufacturing; they’ve already been processed, shipped, and stored before they will be mixed and processed again, losing vitamins along the way.
But honestly, we’d rather see simple, meat-heavy formulas without too many carb sources in canned foods. Carbs can be delivered to dog much less expensively through dry foods and/or fresh foods.
There are some attributes we don’t want to see in canned dog foods, too. We won’t accept any products with unnamed meats or fat sources (i.e., “meat,” “meat by-products,” “poultry,” “poultry by-products,” or “animal fat”).
We also don’t want to see any artificial colors, flavors, or preservatives. None of these are needed (or common, thankfully) in canned food.
If this all sounds very basic so far – it is! But if you look at the ingredients of all the canned dog foods in your local pet supply store – or, in particular, the products sold in grocery stores or big-box stores – very few of the biggest name canned foods you will find will meet these very minimal characteristics of good-quality dog foods.
If you do look at the database – or go to the company websites and look at ingredient lists – you’ll notice that the foods on our list vary quite a bit in ingredient quality. But remember that even the lowest-quality food on our list is better than most products that are not on our list.
Keep in mind that quality is linked to price, and that price will, to a certain extent, indicate better-quality ingredients. It definitely helps identify more ethical ingredients, such as certified organic ingredients, wild-caught fish, grass-fed meats, and cage-free poultry.
In some cases, high prices correlate to products that are made in human-food manufacturing facilities, which means that all of the ingredients in them are “food grade” (legally human-edible), not “feed grade” (only for use in animal feed). All of the products being made in human-food manufacturing facilities are packaged in the lined cardboard cartons called Tetra-Paks – but be aware that not all foods packed in Tetra-Paks were made in a human-food manufacturing facility. Sadly, imitators abound wherever an advantage can be found.
You may be surprised to see some large companies that have historically made “mainstream” products (of generally lower quality) on our list. Some of the largest pet food makers have caught on that there is a market for high-end products, even in mass-market retail outlets.
You might also notice the return of a few companies that were previously on our “Approved Canned Foods” lists but that we had removed due to their inclusion animal plasma, an ingredient that we had a bad feeling about, especially after the bovine spongiform encephalopathy (BSE) crises in past years (which were caused by the use of brain and spinal cord tissues in animal feed).
This high-protein ingredient, harvested at beef and pork slaughter plants, has given us pause for ages – and recently, it’s begun to appear in more and more products. Porcine plasma has long been used by Nature’s Logic, which is the only company on our list that uses feeding trials to prove the nutritional adequacy of its foods (which costs a lot of money). While we liked everything else about Nature’s Logic’s products, its inclusion of plasma kept us away for years.
Our conversion to approval of this ingredient was slow, recent, and based on a very thorough presentation by a plasma-industry representative on the product’s safety and benefits. Most notably, the addition of animal plasma products in dog foods has been shown improve immune-system function.
YOUR MISSION: TO SELECT A CANNED DOG FOOD THAT SUITS YOUR DOG
We did our job; we’ve given you a list of foods that are far better than most. Now your task is to find foods that are appropriate for and “perform well” in your dog. Let’s define those:
“Appropriate for your dog” means that you need to read the ingredients label to make sure you are not buying a food that contains any ingredients he’s allergic to or intolerant of. In order to do that, you have to keep track of what you have been feeding him and how he’s responded to it.
It also means that you need to have an idea of how much protein and fat – or at least calories – your dog needs. Canned foods, being full of meat (we hope), tend to be very high in protein and fat. Many canned foods contain way too much fat, especially for overweight dogs or dogs who are prone to pancreatitis. You need to check the “guaranteed analysis” to make sure that you don’t choose a food that, for example, contains twice as much fat as your dog has been eating.
And finally, “appropriate” means you have chosen a food that is formulated for dogs of your dog’s life stage. You have to find the teeny, tiny print on the label that indicates whether it’s been formulated to be “complete and balanced” for “dogs of all life stages” or just “adult maintenance,” a standard that allows for less protein, fat, calcium, phosphorus, and a few vitamins. Puppies need to eat foods that are formulated for “growth” or for dogs “of all life stages,” a term that encompasses the puppy/growth requirements.
“Performs well” in your dog means that the product doesn’t upset your dog’s stomach, causing vomiting, diarrhea, or constipation. You want to improve or maintain your dog’s smooth digestion, build a nice stool (not too hard and not too soft), and reduce or eliminate excessive gas. The food should maintain or improve his health, skin, coat, appetite, and energy; neither make your dog fat nor thin; and, if he’s a puppy, provide for an appropriate rate of growth (not too fast, not too slow). As a bonus, your dog should like the taste and be glad to get it!
How the heck are you supposed to find the foods that perform like this in your dog? Well, like everything: It takes a little bit of economics (you can only buy what’s in your budget) and a little bit of science (keep track of what you are feeding and observe and record the results).
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A regular sneeze is when air is forcefully exhaled through the nose, often as a single event but sometimes as several sneezes in rapid succession. What in the world though is reverse sneezing in dogs? It is when air is repeatedly and forcefully inhaled through the nose, resulting in a snort that can look and sound alarming.
A tickle at the back of your dog’s throat initiates a reverse sneeze, much like the tickle inside your or your dog’s nose that initiates a regular sneeze. This tickle causes a muscle spasm in your dog’s throat. The muscle spasm causes an involuntary rapid inhalation of air. The opening of your dog’s trachea (windpipe) becomes narrowed and your dog will extend his or her neck to expand the airway. Your dog will make snorting sounds each time he or she inhales and may swallow hard or gasp for air. This spasm can continue for 30 to 60 seconds.
The most common causes of reverse sneezing are inhaled irritants, such as pollen, perfumes, and cleaning products (especially ones with a strong odor). Certain viruses, upper respiratory infections, or post-nasal drip can also cause reverse sneezing in dogs. Pulling hard on a leash or foreign material in the throat can initiate a reverse sneeze. Rarely, nasal mites or polyps are the inciting cause.
How to help a dog a dog with a reverse sneeze
Although it looks and sounds horrible, an episode of reverse sneezing is no worse than sneezing out through your nose several times in a row. Reverse sneezes will stop and do not cause any overt stress or harm to your dog. Most cases of reverse sneezing do not require any immediate medical intervention and resolve quickly on their own – but there are exceptions. Have your dog evaluated by her veterinarian if she has repeated episodes of reverse sneezing.
When to worry about reverse sneezing
Brachycephalic dogs (like Boxers, Pugs, Shih Tzu’s and Bulldogs) are more prone to episodes of reverse sneezing because of a condition called an elongated soft palate. The soft palate is an extension of the hard palate, or roof of the mouth. Some brachycephalic dogs have a soft palate that is longer than usual. When these dogs reverse sneeze, the abnormal air flow tends to suck the soft palate over the opening of the trachea, further occluding the flow of air. These dogs also tend to snort when excited, snore when sleeping, and have overall noisier breathing than non-brachycephalic dogs. An elongated soft palate is one aspect of brachycephalic airway syndrome. Talk to your veterinarian about diagnosis and management (surgical and medical) of brachycephalic airway syndrome if you have one of these breeds of dogs with these signs.
Reverse sneezing is most often associated with a snorting sound. Small dogs who have an episode of making a repeated honking sound, especially after excitement or drinking water, may have collapsing trachea. Large breed dogs that have an episode of making repeated goose-honking sounds with or without collapse or difficulty breathing may have laryngeal paralysis. These dogs should be evaluated by a veterinarian.
What can I do for my dog when she is reverse-sneezing?
You can help your dog by talking to her softly and keeping her calm. Gently massaging your dog’s neck can help to stop the muscle spasm. Sometimes blowing puffs of air at your dog’s nose will stop the reverse sneeze.
In case you’ve wondered, perhaps after suffering an automobile accident with your dog in the car: Yes, dogs can experience a concussion and the brain injury associated with it. Canine concussions happen because of:
Accidents involving cars, motorcycles, or other vehicles
Falling from elevated surfaces like windows, decks, or steep hillsides
Being dropped or falling onto the ground or a floor
Collisions with other dogs
Collisions with trees, buildings, fences, heavy furniture, and other hard surfaces
Kicks from horses, cattle, or other large animals
Accidental blunt force injuries such as being hit with a ball, baseball bat, falling tree, tree limb, or falling debris
The point of impact does not have to be the head itself. If severe enough, indirect impact can cause a dog’s brain to move within the skull with enough force to cause a concussion.
What dogs are at risk of concussions?
Obviously, dogs who love to chase cars, play around traffic, or engage in risky behaviors are concussions waiting to happen. So are dogs who ride in cars with their heads out the window, are not in a secure crate, or are not wearing a canine seatbelt. Dogs in cars that get into accidents can hit windshields and roadways with the same consequences as people who aren’t wearing seatbelts.
Most dogs have thick skulls that protect them from minor injuries, but small dogs with delicate skulls such as toy breeds and dogs with short skulls are at greater-than-average risk of concussions. Open fontanelles are soft spots in the skull caused by gaps between the skull’s growth plates, and they exist in all infant puppies. As puppies mature, the skull’s growth plates fuse together and fontanelles gradually close. However, a common genetic condition can prevent fontanelles from closing in:
Chihuahuas
miniature Dachshunds
Pomeranians
Shih Tzus
Yorkshire Terriers
Maltese
Lhasa Apsos
Pekingese
The growth plates in these breeds can simply fail to fuse, leaving a persistent soft spot in the skull. This is why young puppies of all breeds and puppies and adults of the breeds listed here should be checked by a veterinarian immediately after any injury that could result in a concussion.
How to tell if your dog has a concussion
Some concussions produce obvious symptoms within a few minutes while others take much longer. A dog with a concussion may appear to be fine immediately after an accident but show symptoms a few hours or even days later.
The most dramatic symptom of a concussion is a loss of consciousness. If your dog is unconscious, call your veterinarian or emergency clinic to let them know what happened, follow their instructions, and bring your dog in as quickly as possible.
If your dog is awake, check for any of the following symptoms and contact your veterinarian at once if you notice:
Vomiting
A lack of coordination or loss of balance
Anisocoria, in which the eyes’ pupils are different sizes, with one larger than the other
A lack of response, depression, looking dull or sedated, seeming disoriented or confused
Turning in circles
Shaking or having seizures
Rapid side-to-side or up-and-down eye movements
Bleeding from the nose or ears
Any sign that your dog is going into shock (rapid pulse, bright red gums, the dog is weak or lethargic, eyes glaze over, breathing changes to slow and shallow or deep and rapid)
Loss of bowel control
Loss of appetite
Difficulty waking up after dozing or nodding off
Standing with the head pressed against a wall, called head leaning
Any other behavior that is unusual for your dog
Even if these symptoms don’t seem severe, it’s important to have your dog checked if you notice any of them because concussions can cause permanent brain damage, and an injured dog may suffer from internal bleeding or get hurt in a second accident that occurs because the original injury interferes with balance and coordination.
How to transport your dog for medical treatment
Be sure to call ahead so the staff at your veterinary clinic can be ready to receive your dog and so you can follow whatever instructions your veterinarian may give.
If your dog is unconscious, have a friend help you lift her safely into your car using a board or stretcher, if available.
Try to reposition the dog as little as possible. This is especially important if there might be broken bones or nerve damage.
If your dog is unconscious, open her mouth and gently pull her tongue forward to ensure that she can breathe, always being cautious when doing so.
Keep your dog’s head slightly elevated with a pillow or cushion. This will help relieve pressure on the brain.
Remove your dog’s neck collar so it won’t interfere with blood flow to the brain. If your dog is able to walk and if one is available, use a harness with a leash attachment at the chest in front or on the back, or loop a leash around one side of the neck and between the dog’s front legs.
In cool or cold weather, cover your dog with a blanket.
Stay calm and speak soothingly to your dog. Any sensory stimulation can trigger pain, fear, anxiety, or seizures, so stay as relaxed and reassuring as possible.
How will the vet clinic treat your dog for concussion?
Injured dogs with possible concussions are given an overall examination, and if they are in shock, that condition is treated immediately. Supplemental oxygen and intravenous fluids are given as needed along with anti-inflammatory medication to reduce brain swelling.
Depending on the extent of the injury, your dog may be kept overnight or longer for observation or for treatment as needed.
How to help your dog recover from a concussion
When it comes to concussions, time is the main healer. At home your task for at least two weeks will be to make your dog comfortable, calm, and mostly sedentary. Full recovery may take as long as six months. A calm, quiet environment and protection from being disturbed or distracted will speed your dog’s healing.
Stairs can be challenging when a dog’s balance is affected, so keep your dog downstairs or stay with him when climbing stairs to prevent new injuries.
If your dog needs ointments for wounds, dressings, or other medications, follow your veterinarian’s instructions.
Preventing dog concussions
Most concussions – and by far the most serious concussions – occur when dogs get hit by cars, when they fall from high places, or when they are injured by other animals. These interactions are almost always preventable.
When outdoors, keep your dog on a leash unless you’re in a safe area far from traffic and other distractions.
Don’t leave your dog outside unless you have a securely fenced yard. An electronic collar-based barrier will not protect your dog from possible injuries.
When taking your dog for rides in the car, use a well-designed pet seatbelt or other restraint. (Read our review of dog car harnesses). Practice defensive driving, go slowly, and stay observant to keep your canine passenger safe.
To elevate or not to elevate – that is the question. Elevated dog bowls (also called raised dog bowls) have become popular for a lot of reasons – not the least of which is that they are available in many attractive finishes and materials. Another reason elevated bowls are becoming popular is that they look more comfortable to eat from, compared to a plate on the floor. However, are elevated dog bowls good for dogs? Consider that dogs are naturally accustomed to eating and drinking from a plate or bowl on the floor. They’ve evolved with their meals on the ground.
Who should not eat from elevated dog bowls
Ironically, it was owners of large and giant breed dogs who started the trend toward elevated dog bowls, but their dogs are the ones most likely to develop a life-threatening condition when fed from a raised bowl. Large and giant-breed dogs who eat from an elevated feeder have an increased risk of developing gastric dilation and volvulus (GDV, also known as “bloat” and “turning of the stomach”).
GDV is a medical emergency of the highest order. It comes on suddenly. A dog with GDV will be restless and may pace. Drooling and panting are common. His belly may look distended, and he may react painfully to pressure placed on his left flank. The symptom that clinches the diagnosis is unproductive retching, like the dog is trying to vomit but can’t. A dog with these symptoms needs veterinary care as soon as possible.
A study published in the Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association in November 2000 examined risk factors for developing GDV. The study identified other factors that more strongly contributed to the incidence of GDV, but eating from raised feeders was implicated in a significant percentage of cases of GDV in large and giant-breed dogs.
No one knows why eating from an elevated bowl might increase the likelihood of GDV in large- and giant-breed dogs, though some speculate that the higher head position causes the dog to swallow more air as they eat. But eating and drinking from floor-level bowls does not increase the risk of GDV in dogs of any size, so that’s where I’d suggest owners put most dogs’ bowls.
Who may benefit from eating from raised dog bowls
In contrast, elevated feeders may be beneficial for dogs who have been diagnosed with arthritis in their neck or forelimbs and have difficulty or pain when lowering their head to eat or drink. Dogs who have suffered a neck injury or have had cervical-spine surgery also may benefit from having their food and water bowls raised.
If you think your dog would benefit from elevated bowls, discuss your dog’s condition with their veterinarian prior to making the purchase. For all other dogs, bowls on the floor are just what the doctor ordered.
I recently fostered a dog who first greeted me at the shelter that I sprung her from by jumping up on me. I spent the first two days with her almost exclusively working on preventing her from jumping. When I introduced her to a friend, my friend immediately held her arms out and greeted the dog’s enthusiastic jump up with a big hug, petting, and cooing
