I just received the annual renewal notice for my senior dog’s pet health insurance policy, and, sadly, made the decision not to renew it. I don’t think Otto is going to live long enough to receive the full benefit of the increased price, and as much as it pains me to say this, I’ve decided that his next big health crisis will be his last.
Despite being on three daily medications for his arthritis pain, he’s obviously still in some discomfort and is losing mobility. His nighttime anxiety waxes and wanes, but never goes away completely; overall, his quality of life is still okay, but sinking. And as the fall temperatures drop, his preference for being outside at night is getting less practical. When it was still warm, even as recently as a few weeks ago, he would go outside at bedtime and preferred to be outdoors all night. Now, it’s getting too cold for that. On my front porch, I just set up a dog house with a special pet heating pad in it, a hard plastic model meant for outdoor use, but so far, he has eschewed its use, preferring to scratch at the door to be let out at midnight, in at 2 am, out at 4 am, and back in at 6 am…. This is a little hard on me, but I’m getting so I can shuffle to the front door almost in my sleep. The bigger problem is that the cold and damp is making his arthritis pain worse, and he’s having more trouble getting up.
In the past few years, I wanted to have him insured so that I could afford almost any cost that he might incur for anything from diagnostics and treatment to advanced dentistry, to keep him going. But with his pain rising and quality of life sinking, making those “at all costs” efforts doesn’t seem like the humane thing to do anymore.
Math problems
This past year, the policy still penciled out to my benefit, even though I was paying a whomping $230.57 a month for the plan. It was worth it, because, after a $250 annual deductible, the plan reimbursed me for 90% of all Otto’s veterinary bills and medications. In the past few years, Otto’s internal medicine specialist has recommended that we do an abdominal ultrasound and a chest x-ray each year, to monitor his liver (which had some benign tumors growing on it a few years ago, and still shows some irregularities) and his lungs (he’s had pneumonia before, with few symptoms). The vet also prescribed a relatively expensive medication for his arthritis; I’ve been paying $108.90 a month for it. His other medications cost much less, but they add up.
The monthly premiums added up to $2,766.84 in the past year.
I paid $5,141 for Otto’s veterinary bills and medications in the past year. Nationwide Pet Insurance reimbursed me for 90% of that (less a $250 annual deductible), for a total of $4,401.90 in reimbursements.
So, all in all, I paid a total of $3,530.90 for Otto’s insurance premiums, deductible, and the 10% of the bills that were not covered. I saved a total of $1,610.10 by having him covered by pet insurance.
But the premium was about to go up to $341.84 a month for the same plan – quite an increase. And because of Otto’s age and current health status, if he suddenly experiences a health crisis, my veterinarians and I agree, we will spare him any extensive diagnostics, and instead provide just comfort care until it’s time to provide him with permanent relief from pain. At this point, I will just pay for his medications out of pocket – and for the cost of his euthanasia, too (which would have been covered by the insurance plan).
This feels like a sad but practical decision – a step closer to the end – but one I have to take in order to make sure I can afford the care for my other two dogs, too.
Training your dog enhances the quality of life for both of you, allowing you to involve him in more of your activities – but the prospect of a training a dog can be daunting for first-time dog owners. Using a combination of good management and effective, science-based force-free methods, it may be simpler than you think.
Just a few decades ago, coercive training was all that was available. It was often difficult for dog owners who were beginners at training to accept that they had to hurt their dogs to train them. Thankfully, you can now easily find resources to help you educate your new canine pal using gentle, effective methods. Force-free training and behavior professionals who offer in-person or Zoom sessions, books, magazines, and video courses abound. You just need to get pointed in the right direction.
Dog Training Philosophy
The first, vitally important step is to commit to your training philosophy. We endorse and promote force-free training, aka “positive training” – that is, training that employs copious amounts of positive reinforcement to teach dogs what we want them to do. This is not just because we want to be nice to our dogs. Several recent studies confirm that the use of coercive and/or pain-causing tools results in a poorer quality of life for dogs, and is more likely to result in significant behavior challenges, including aggression.
Not only will you learn how to train your dog in a group dog-training class, and your dog will get practice at working with you calmly around other dogs, but you will also have the opportunity to observe other owners and their dogs. Often, class participants learn just as much from watching other novice dog handlers’ successes and failures as their own! Photo by Nancy Kerns
Your first mission is to find resources that support your philosophy. This can get tricky. “Positive training” has become a useful marketing tool but there is no industry-wide accepted or legal definition for the term, so you can’t just take someone’s word for it when they say they are a “positive” trainer.
Some call themselves “positive” because they start out with a clicker and treats – but they may be quick to revert to choke chains, prong collars, and shock collars if they don’t get immediate results. Others claim to be “positive” because they feed the dog a treat after they shock or yank on the prong collar. You’ll need to dig deeper than a trainer’s own self-label to really know who they are and what they do.
Check out their website. They should openly explain their training philosophy and the methods they use. If they don’t, they’re likely hiding something. They should proudly display their credentials: certifications, memberships, and affiliations. Again, if they have no education (past and ongoing) in dog training and behavior and are not members in good standing of reputable training organizations, their methods are likely outdated.
Read their blogs. Talk to them. Ask questions such as, “Is there ever an occasion for which you would use a prong collar or shock collar?” When you like everything you see and hear, you’ve found a professional you can work with.
Puppy Training Classes
Dogs who exhibit reactive or aggressive behavior and their new owners will benefit from private instruction to establish some baseline skills and communication in a lower-stress environment. Photo by Nancy Kerns
If you’re starting with a baby dog (8 weeks to 4 or 5 months), we strongly recommend that you begin with a “puppy kindergarten” class that emphasizes the importance of puppy socialization and gives your pup ample opportunities to play with other puppies.
Playtime should be carefully monitored to ensure appropriate interactions between players. Low-key, hesitant pups should be paired with gentle playmates, while rough-and-tumble players will delight in romping with like-minded puppies.
Also likely to be included in your puppy kindergarten class are force-free handling and husbandry discussion and practices, and the teaching of important foundation behaviors such as sit, down, come, and polite leash walking.
Adult Dog Training
A visual barrier (in this case, a folding exercise pen covered with a sheet) can help distracted or overwhelmed dogs get accustomed to working with their owners in a less visually stimulating environment. Photo by Nancy Kerns
If your dog is over the age of 5 months, look for an adult “good manners” class. More and more force-free trainers have moved away from the term “Obedience” and the coercion that it implies. (Some may still use it, however, so that isn’t necessarily a rule-out in your search.)
The instructor should supply you with a curriculum that explains what you and your dog will learn during your class. The list can include a wide variety of behaviors such as sit, down, come, leash-walking, polite greetings to humans, wait or stay, touch, trade, leave it, go-to-your-mat, settle, and maybe some tricks and cognition games to keep it light and remind everyone that training is supposed to be fun!
What to Expect in a Dog-Training Class
Whether it’s a puppy kindergarten or adult-dog class, the first session is often an orientation, with dogs left at home. This is so your trainer can talk to you without distractions – so human students can focus on what she’s saying rather than worrying about what their dogs are doing.
The instructor will probably have a dog with her to demonstrate the first-week basic behaviors that she’ll want you to practice with your dog. If she’s a clicker trainer she may hand out clickers and have you do some exercises with them to start practicing your clicker skills.
The instructor will also share tips on what kind of treats to use and how many to bring to class, and give you the lowdown on important information: what to do when you arrive the following week with your dog, where and when to enter and exit the training space, and to avoid letting dogs interact on leashes.
Finally, there should be ample time for discussion and questions. This is your opportunity to ask about anything you don’t understand or have concerns about. Be sure to take advantage of this!
Before your next class, practice the behaviors that the instructor demonstrated – and not just once! Practice several times a day with your dog, for even just two to three minutes at a time. The more you practice, the easier the next class will be for both of you. Because, for your second class, anticipate chaos. This is an exciting time for dogs and their humans! Some dogs may be quite aroused by the proximity of other dogs; there could be some (or a lot of) barking until everyone settles. Humans are likely to be surprised, stressed and/or embarrassed by their dogs’ behavior and/or vocalizing.
You may want to leave your dog in the car while you carry in any equipment you bring with you, so you can keep your full attention on your dog when you bring him in. Keep his leash short as you enter the training facility and have a generous handful of high-value treats (such as roasted or canned chicken, cut or shredded into tiny bits) to hold in front of his nose as you pass by the others, to keep him focused on you and behaving reasonably well.
Some trainers provide “alcoves” – training spaces with barriers between you and the other dogs to reduce visual stimuli and help everyone settle down. Over time, the barriers are removed so you and your dog can learn how to work in proximity to other dogs and their humans.
Find your training space and help your dog settle on his mat. You can drop several treats on the ground in front of his nose and use a “kissing” noise to get his attention. When he starts to focus on you, practice a few of the behaviors you’ve been working on. This helps get his brain in training mode and helps you both be ready when the instructor starts the class.
Continuing Education
When you and your dog have graduated from your puppy kindergarten or “basic good manners” class, you’ll find that there are many options for your dog’s continuing education. It’s not too soon to start thinking about what you might want to do with him next: more advanced training for faster and more reliable responses or off-leash work? Perhaps a therapy dog preparation class, or beginning-level instruction in a canine sport such as agility, flyball, nosework, or musical freestyle?
As you can see, you have many options. The important thing is, if you’re new to the wonderful world of dogs, there is lots of help available for you as a beginner. Please take wise advantage of those resources so you and your dog can successfully build your lifetime partnership together.
How much water should a dog drink in a day? The simplest, most accurate answer to this question is, “However much he needs to maintain normal hydration.” The many variables affecting a dog’s daily water intake make it impossible to just pick a number. These variables include:
The moisture content of his food. The moisture in fresh, canned, or semi-moist food meets some of the dog’s daily water requirements. Dogs fed these diets will drink less water.
Puppies younger than 16 weeks old don’t have the ability fully concentrate their urine yet, so they drink more to make up for what they lose in dilute urine.
Activity level. Exercising dogs pant for temperature regulation, which causes them to lose water through evaporation. Then they must drink more water to make up the deficit.
Environmental temperature and humidity. The hotter and drier the environment, the more the dog pants and the more moisture he loses.
Health status. Dogs with vomiting and diarrhea lose a lot of water, which can cause serious dehydration, fast. And dogs with metabolic disorders may urinate excessively. In each case, affected dogs need to drink more to keep up with the extraordinary losses.
Normal Daily Water Consumption
Although the above variables complicate things, here’s a guideline to a dog’s normal water consumption. Internal medicine specialists generally agree that normal water consumption for healthy adult dogs, resting in a temperature-controlled environment, is 50 to 80 milliliters of water per kilogram of the dog’s body weight per day (mls/kg/day). To convert this to ordinary household measures, there are 30 mls in an ounce, 8 ounces in a cup, and .45 kg in a pound of body weight.
If you look closely at the table, you will see that normal water consumption is about an ounce of water per pound per day. So easy to remember!
If your healthy adult dog seems to drink far less than this, never fear. As long as plenty of fresh water is available, a healthy dog will drink what he needs. There are highly effective mechanisms in the body that trigger thirst when water stores are depleted.
Having said that, be aware that dogs who are not feeling well can dehydrate in a hurry. If you notice the water bowl is not emptying at its usual rate, pay close attention to your dog’s attitude, appetite, and behavior. Dogs with fevers typically don’t feel well enough to drink what they need. Dehydration on top of fever can cause a snowball effect. Don’t hesitate to see your veterinarian if your dog seems to be feeling a bit under the weather.
Drinking Too Much?
We humans tend to be obsessed with a lack of hydration, but with dogs, it’s more important to recognize when they are drinking way more than normal amounts. This is called polydipsia, and it’s usually accompanied by polyuria (excessive urination).
There are many diseases associated with polydipsia/polyuria in dogs; the most common are kidney disease, diabetes, and Cushing’s syndrome. If your dog consistently drinks more than the amounts in the table, see your veterinarian as soon as possible.
Finally, be aware that dogs can suffer a variety of life-threatening conditions if they drink too much water in a relatively short time:
The behavioral issue of compulsive water drinking can impair the kidneys’ ability to concentrate urine, creating an unhealthy vicious cycle.
Dogs who swim or play for hours in water or who get obsessed with biting at lawn sprinklers can inadvertently ingest so much water that they suffer from low blood sodium levels (hyponatremia). This can cause brain swelling, and the dog may begin to stagger or become uncoordinated and exhibit lethargy, nausea, and excessive salivation. Left untreated, cerebral edema can be fatal.
And finally, large breed deep-chested dogs who are allowed to guzzle large quantities of water all at once may end up with gastric dilatation or “bloat.”
As you can see it’s important to be aware of how much water your dog is or isn’t drinking. It’s an important aspect of your dog’s general health monitoring.
This nail was broken nearly all the way off, leaving the nailbed painfully exposed. The dog’s owner was able to pull off the broken remnant with her fingers. Note that the dog’s nails are too long; long nails break easily. Photo by Nancy Kerns.
Torn or split nails are a fairly common problem with dogs but can be easily addressed by either you or your veterinarian. Some torn or damaged claws are not easy to remove, or may be so painful for your dog that he requires sedation to properly remove the damaged claw. Seek veterinary care in these situations, or if you notice a foul odor or discharge from the nailbed, or if the affected toe appears red and swollen. These are signs of an infection and an antibiotic may need to be prescribed.
But if there are no signs of infection, and your dog will allow you to examine the damaged nail, you can treat the broken or split nail yourself. Be aware, however, that torn nails are very painful. Even the sweetest dog on earth may get a little snippy about having a torn claw touched.
Place an Elizabethan collar on your dog (a.k.a. a “cone”). You can also use a muzzle. This will keep you from being accidentally bitten as you take care of the broken nail.
How to Fix a Vertically Split Nail for a Dog
If the nail has been split vertically with the quick exposed and one side of the nail is freely movable, then you can try trimming away that side of the claw. Get as close to the base of the split as you can without damaging or cutting the quick.
If the nail is split or cracked vertically but both sides of the claw are firmly attached to the quick, then treatment is as follows: Trim the end of the claw as you normally would for routine nail trims. Then round the end of the claw and the edges of the crack with a nail file or, better yet, a Dremel tool. This will help to keep the claw from getting snagged and causing further damage.
In the package, Pawz resemble uninflated balloons. But they protect your dog’s feet well – and few dogs mind having them on. Photo courtesy of Pawz.
Ideally, have your dog wear a protective boot on the affected paw for about a week until the claw starts to grow out past the split point. (My favorite products for this purpose are called Pawz; they are thin, lightweight, and well tolerated by most dogs, even ones that don’t like to wear boots. They are available online and in many major pet supply chain stores.)
Whatever you do, do not use superglue on a vertically split nail! When applied to a surface, superglue undergoes a chemical reaction that generates heat. If you apply superglue to a cracked nail, the heat it generates may burn the very sensitive quick.
Home Treatment for Broken Dog Nails
It’s definitely easier for a veterinarian to address your dog’s broken nail – especially with the help of a local anesthetic and/or a sedative. But if there is no sign of infection, and your dog will allow you to examine the nail, you may be able to treat it yourself. Photo by Nancy Kerns.
If your dog’s nail is bleeding, address that first. Apply a generous layer of styptic powder (often sold under the name “Kwik Stop”) to the torn nail. If you don’t have styptic powder, you can use flour or corn starch.
Applying a cool compress to the nail and toe for a few minutes will help slow the blood flow from the exposed nailbed. A Chinese herb called yunnan baiyao may also help stop the bleeding. Just open the capsule and apply the contents to the exposed nailbed.
Once the bleeding has stopped completely, you can address the torn nail with the following steps.
Remove the damaged part of the nail. If the nail is almost completely torn off, you may be able to remove the damaged nail with just a quick pull using a pair of tweezers or your fingers. If it is loose but still somewhat attached, then you may need to trim off the damaged part using nail trimmers.
Gently clean the affected toe and nail with a chlorhexidine-based disinfectant solution, such as Dermachlor (chlorhexidine gluconate 0.2%). You can also use dish soap and warm water. Be sure to rinse the paw and dry it well.
Apply a bandage to the affected paw to protect the exposed nailbed as it heals. Place a non-stick pad (also known as a non-adhesive pad or Telfa pad) over the end of the affected toe. Wrap soft cotton cast padding or rolled gauze around the paw and over the non-stick pad to hold it in placeNext, you need to cover the padding or gauze with a couple layers of fabric self-adhesive wrap (such as Vetrap), but before you do this, unroll and then re-roll some of the wrap before you apply it. This removes the tension from the roll so that you don’t make the bandage too tight. You may apply a layer of first-aid adhesive tape at the top of the bandage to help hold it in place. Do not make the bandage tight! The goal is to simply protect the exposed nailbed.
Replace the bandage once a day for the next three to five days. Keep the bandage clean and dry and replace the bandage immediately if it becomes wet or soiled. You can apply a layer of Press’n Seal plastic wrap to the bandage before your dog goes out in the rain or snow. Be sure to remove the plastic wrap after your dog comes back inside.
Have your dog wear an Elizabethan or other recovery collar while the paw is bandaged to prevent him from chewing off the bandage. If your dog continues to lick his paw after the bandage is no longer necessary, he may need to wear the Elizabethan collar for a few additional days until the nailbed is no longer sensitive.
The paw has been gently washed and the hair around the broken nail has been clipped (as much as could be without touching the nailbed). Once the paw is dry (and the other nails trimmed), the paw should be wrapped. Photo by Nancy Kerns.
You can find the necessary bandage supplies, including fabric adhesive wrap, in the first aid section of pharmacies or grocery stores. The wrap and chlorhexidine cleansing solution can be found at most pet supply stores or through online pet supply retailers. It’s a good idea to have these supplies on hand so that you have them when the need arises. (See “12 Items to Include in Your DIY First-Aid Kit,” WDJ April 2022.)
How Long Does it Take for a Dog’s Broken Nail to Heal
A claw that has been torn will take several weeks to grow back. The new claw will likely appear normal but may be somewhat deformed. If your dog appears sensitive about walking on the affected paw, you may want to apply a protective boot when walking outside. Again, this is a situation where one of the Pawz lightweight rubber boots would be perfect.
Trimming your dog’s claws regularly can help minimize the risk of tearing a nail. Once a month is a typical routine, although some dogs may require trimming every two to three weeks.
If you notice that your dog’s claws seem brittle or if the claws are lifting off and separating from the nailbed on a regular basis, have your dog assessed by a veterinarian. Certain fungal and bacterial infections, autoimmune disorders, and endocrine diseases can cause abnormal growth of the claws or brittle nails.
It’s a pain to make big bags fit in some containers, but it can be done; that’s a full, new 26-pound bag in there! If this is too difficult for you, either get a bigger container or buy smaller bags, because your dog’s food is safest when kept in its original bag. If you absolutely insist on pouring it out of the bag into a container, use only an air-tight, food-safe container and wash it each and every time before you add new food to it to prevent rancid oils on the interior surfaces from contaminating the new food. Photo by Nancy Kerns
What’s the best way to store dry dog food? The perfect storage container is important – but focus first on what you’ll put into it:
When shopping, check the “best by” dates on the packages and don’t buy foods that are within six months of expiration. Buy the bags with the farthest-away expiration dates.
Buy an appropriate amount, only as much as you’ll use within a month to six weeks.
Buy a food that your dog enjoys. The fats in dry dog food become increasingly rancid with age, so an unfavorite food will smell and taste even worse to your dog as time passes.
Avoid These Mistakes in Storing Dog Food
Don’t store food in a warm or damp location or in direct sunlight. The U.S. Food & Drug Administration recommends storing dog food in a cool (below 80 degrees Fahrenheit), dry place to retard fat oxidation and prevent degradation of vitamins and antioxidants.
Don’t use your garage for storage unless it’s cool, dry, climate-controlled, clean, and free from rodents and insects.
Don’t transfer food from its original bag into a plastic bin or storage container. Chemicals in different types of plastic “migrate” into foods that contain fat. Dog food bags are made of plastics that have the lowest rate of additive migration.
Don’t toss the package the food came in before your dog finishes it. If your dog gets sick, you’ll need its manufacturer, brand name, ingredients, and specific lot number to tie the food to the problem.
Don’t add new food to old food, as doing so spreads any potential contamination to the new food and hastens the development of rancidity.
Use the Best Dog Food Storage Containers
Because it’s best to keep dry dog food in its original package, buy a container that’s large enough for the entire bag to fit inside. Ideal storage containers have an air-tight seal. Your options include:
A rolling plastic bin with wheels that make it easy to move.
A plastic storage vault with a circular lid that creates an air-tight seal.
A metal storage bin with an air-tight lid, which will be more expensive but more durable than plastic. Metal bins also protect against sunlight exposure (and the potential for rodents to chew through the plastic to reach the food).
Glass jars with air-tight lids. These work well for small dogs; just keep them in a safe place where they aren’t likely to break.
If you absolutely cannot deal with keeping your dog’s food in its original bag, and must dump it into a container, make certain that the container is either inert (glass or metal) or made of food-grade plastic that is free of bisphenol A (BPA-free). The international symbol for “food safe” material is a wine glass and a fork symbol. Also, you should wash the container with warm soapy water and allow it to dry completely before refilling it each time.
Take a Benadryl tablet cut to the correct dosage, if your dog is going to insist on accompanying you to check out nearby beehives. If he doesn’t mind staying home, all the better. Credit: victorass88 / Getty Images
Benadryl is an over-the-counter human medication you can use for dogs with an allergic reaction, such as from a bee sting. Benadryl, or generic diphenhydramine, is an antihistamine approved for people.
Benadryl is not FDA-approved for use in dogs, but it is commonly used off label. Benadryl can be purchased as 25-milligram (mg) tablets and 50-milligram “extra strength” tablets. You must be certain which Benadryl you have before giving it to your dogs. Most veterinary dosages are based on the 25-mg tablet.
In general, Benadryl doses for dogs—provided the dog is not vomiting or showing signs of diarrhea, weakness, or collapse—is approximately 1 to 2 mg of diphenhydramine per pound of body weight. That means a full 25-mg tablet is appropriate for a dog weighing 14 to 28 lbs. PreventiveVet has a clickable dosage chart. Just enter your dog’s weight, and it tells you how much diphenhydramine you can give the dog, based on 25 mg tablets.
Warning: If using any human diphenhydramine or Benadryl product, check how much diphenhydramine it contains and all other ingredients. Some products contain decongestants, which are dangerous for dogs. In addition, products containing alcohol or xylitol can harm or kill your dog.
While Benadryl often makes people drowsy, it has less of an effect on dogs. Still, it can reduce anxiety for some dogs and may help with nausea, such as car sickness. Be forewarned, however, that some dogs become anxious and hyper from Benadryl. If you’re looking for anti-anxiety meds for your dog, talk with your veterinarian.
Benadryl helps manage mild symptoms of seasonal allergies. For dogs, that often means itching and/or hives. You may see the dog rubbing his face, ears, and eyes, and maybe sneezing. Benadryl helps relieve inflammation and reduce swelling.
Always check with your veterinarian before giving your dog this medication, as it may not be appropriate for your individual dog based on your dog’s health, other medications, and what you think you’re treating. Include Benadryl in your pet first-aid kit but be proactive and get the specific dose for your dog from your vet ahead of time and put it with the drug.
Refillable glass jars and bottles with pump or spray tops are available in most health food stores.
These easy DIY dog gifts are worth making for yourself as well as dog-loving friends. Natural food stores and online retailers sell a variety of tins, jars, spray bottles, pump dispensers, tubes, and other containers for grooming products.
10 to 15 drops lavender or chamomile essential oil
Instructions: Combine ingredients, shake well, and apply by spraying or dabbing onto affected areas as needed.
Soothing Dog Paw-Butter
Dog-paw butter protects feet in hot and cold weather, soothes cracked or sore paw pads, and blocks winter salt burn. It can also be applied to cracked noses. Save some for yourself and your friends as this is an effective lip balm and a great moisturizing salve for cuticles, hands, and feet.
In a wide-mouth pint-sized glass canning jar combine:
Ingredients:
1⁄3 cup olive, sunflower, sweet almond, or jojoba oil
1⁄3 cup coconut oil
2 tablespoons shea butter or mango butter
2 tablespoons beeswax (chopped or beads)
Instructions:
Place the jar in a saucepan containing a cup of water to create a double boiler. Over low heat, gently stir the ingredients with a wooden chopstick until they are fully combined.
Optional: add the contents of a vitamin E oil capsule
Optional: add 10 drops tea tree, lavender, chamomile, or other essential oil
Leave a metal spoon in the freezer while you make the salve. To test its consistency, dip the frozen spoon into the melted blend and apply to your hand. If it’s too stiff, add a little oil; if it’s too liquid, add more beeswax. When it’s just right, pour it into small jars or tins.
I often use my dogs to help me with my work. They wear test products (from flotation devices to breakaway safety collars), and they get called upon to learn any behavior being taught step-by-step by one of our training authors (both to test the clarity of the instructions and the efficacy of the methods). But they also get to sample any foods, treats, supplements, and chews that happen to arrive in my home office and play with any toys I am testing for durability and dog-appeal. Sometimes their avid interest in a toy or treat – or their ability to break something within minutes – will help form our opinion of a product.
All the while, I take note – and I take pictures. I document everything! Pictures of the good things they get to experience sometimes end up on our Instagram account (@dogsofwholedogjournal); photos of the less pleasant things that happen to them – from split nails (Woody, again and again) to neuter surgery (sorry, Boone) – get filed away to use if we ever publish an article on that topic.
The most difficult thing they sometimes have to do in the course of their “employment” is take part in training sessions to illustrate WDJ’s how-to articles. It’s one thing if I ask them to demonstrate something they already know how to do, or to learn a new trick; they enjoy training! I’m sure it’s a little confusing, though, when I try to compel them to do something for the camera that runs counter to our real training practice.
For example, at times in the past, for the sake of an illustrative photo, I’ve hyped Woody into jumping up on a friend in greeting, allowed Otto to bark at the mailman on the other side of the fence, and encouraged my son’s dog to appear as if he’s counter-surfing (I got some grief from my son about that!). And just today, I got some ham out of the refrigerator and did my best to inspire Boone to grab at the treat shark-fashion, teeth flashing and eyes rolled back in his head, the way he did in the first training classes I brought him to a month ago.
Why, you ask? In the case of Boone and the ham, I tried to capture what it looks like when a dog is stressed during a behavioral “temperature check” as explained in “Teach Your Dog to ‘Leave It’ Without Using a Cue” by a new training contributor, Jennifer Burns, owner of Conscious Dog Training in Texas. When Jennifer described how a dog takes a treat when he’s feeling stressed – too stressed to absorb much of a training session – I knew exactly what that looks like: Boone a month ago! Happily, Boone’s emotional “temperature” has gone down in new environments since then; the photo I took is just a dramatic (and delicious) recreation.
Dogs sweat through their paws, but it’s ineffective. A dog with a long, wide tongue is overheated. Credit: SDI Productions Creative
Yes. Dogs sweat. Unfortunately, it’s an ineffective process, and you won’t see sweat dripping from their bodies when overheated, like a human or a horse does.
Dogs sweat through their paws, which have sweat glands on the pads. You might notice a damp set of pawprints if your dog has been sitting somewhere that makes him nervous or if he is very hot. But it’s not enough. Pads aren’t an effective way for your dog to cool off.
The most effective way for dogs to cool off is via panting. As your dog pants, the moisture from his tongue and mouth evaporates, helping to cool him. This panting is why plenty of fresh water is so important for your dog on hot days. He needs that liquid to keep his mouth moist and allow evaporative cooling. Watch how long and wide his tongue gets as he pants. The more surface area he has on his tongue, the more cooling power. If your dog’s tongue is long and wide, he’s too warm.
Along with panting, dogs will do some vasodilation on hot days, which means blood vessels open wider to allow more blood circulation near the surface of the skin. You might notice the inside of your dog’s ears are red, especially if he is short-haired and has prick ears. The bigger the ear, the more cooling power.
The groin area also gets more blood flow when your dog is hot, which is why it’s a good area for applying cool compresses or wet with a sponge if your dog is overheated. If possible, ask your overheated dog to wade into a lake or shallow pool, like a kiddie pool. Avoid wetting him with water that is overly cold, as it will cause blood vessels to constrict, which is counterproductive to cooling.
Fans or getting your dog somewhere with a cool breeze or in an air-conditioned environment will help to cool him off as well. The breeze increases the evaporation rate. Think about how you feel better even just fanning yourself when you are hot and sweaty.
So, yes, dogs do sweat but panting is their “chilling off” superpower!
Soap or shampoo residue that’s left in the coat can contribute to dry skin, as can washing your dog too frequently. If your dog suffers from dry, itchy skin, bathe her less often, rinse very well when you do, and try one of the topical remedies described here. Photo by Jaromir Chalabala / EyeEm Getty Images.
Dry skin can be as uncomfortable for dogs as it is for people. The outermost layer of skin, called the epidermis, creates new skin cells and retains moisture in healthy dogs but when dry, cracked, and flaky, it creates irritation, dander, hair loss, scabs, bumps, itching, and scratching. Your veterinarian can diagnose and treat conditions that require medical attention, but if your dog is otherwise healthy, you can improve her dry skin and coat with simple home remedies. Frequent brushing will help, too, by distributing the natural oils in your dog’s coat.
Causes of dry skin in dogs
Dry skin in dogs can be caused by:
Allergies, sensitivities, or contact dermatitis
Drying soaps or shampoos
Failing to adequately rinse out soaps or shampoo
Baths that are too frequent or too hot
Dry weather or low humidity
External parasites like fleas or mites
Autoimmune disorders
Underlying illnesses like Cushing’s disease or hypothyroidism
If the following remedies for your dog’s dry skin fail to bring her relief, schedule an appointment with your veterinarian to make sure there is not an underlying health issue contributing to the problem.
What can I put on my dog for dry skin?
Oatmeal and aloe vera are proven skin protectors that help form a protective barrier that slows the loss of natural oils from your dog’s coat while soothing itchy, irritated, flaking skin.
Make your own oatmeal bath
Place 1/2 to 1 cup of plain, unflavored oatmeal (instant, quick, or slow-cooking) in a blender, coffee grinder, or food processor.
Process on the highest setting until the oats form a very fine powder.
Pour the oat powder into warm (not hot) running water in your tub. Fill the tub to a comfortable level for your dog.
Place your dog in the tub and use a cup to pour the oatmeal bath over his body.
Massage the bath water into the dog’s skin and if possible, keep him soaking for 5 to 10 minutes.
Rinse your dog well with warm (not hot) water, then dry well with towels and gently brush the coat.
Apply aloe vera
Pure aloe vera juice or gel (one made with aloe vera alone, without additives) is an economical skin treatment for your dog. Simply apply, work it into the skin, and let dry.
Rinse or spray your dog with an herbal tea
Place 6 teabags or 6 teaspoons of dried herbs (chamomile, calendula, or green tea) in a 1-quart glass jar.
Fill the jar with boiling water and close the lid.
Let stand until it cools to room temperature. This tea will stay fresh in your refrigerator for a week.
Strain and use as a final rinse after bathing or spray onto your dog’s wet or dry coat, working It in well so it reaches the skin.
Let the coat air dry, then gently brush your dog.
Is coconut oil good for my dog’s skin?
Yes, and it can be applied topically (massaged into the skin) or added to food. Apply by working 1/2 teaspoon at a time into your dog’s skin, head to tail, and brush well.
To feed coconut oil, start with small amounts and gradually increase to 1 teaspoon per 10 pounds (1 tablespoon per 30 pounds) of body weight daily.
Resource guarding is a natural, normal canine behavior. In fact it’s a normal behavior for most warm-blooded animals. Even we humans guard our resources – sometimes quite fiercely. Think about it. We lock our doors. Store clerks have loaded .22 rifles under checkout counters, while homeowners keep shotguns and baseball bats leaning in the corner by the back door. Banks keep valuables in vaults. Some of us get insanely jealous if someone pays too much attention to our significant other.
Dogs guard their resources as well, sometimes quite fiercely. This is most troublesome when they guard from humans, but can also get them in hot water when they guard from other dogs. That said, some dog-dog guarding behavior is quite appropriate and acceptable.
As an example: In a dog park or doggie daycare, Dog A is chewing happily on a (insert any valuable resource here). Curious, Dog B approaches. Dog A gives Dog B “the look.” Dog B quickly defers, saying “Oh, excuse me!” by calmly turning and walking away. No harm done. Much of the time the dogs’ owner isn’t even aware that this occurred.
This is the ideal resource-guarding scenario. Many times, however, other, less appropriate scenarios occur.
To read about these scenarios along with advice on how to recognize the signs of resource-guarding and ways to reduce, eliminate and prevent it, read Whole Dog Journal‘s ebook Resource Guarding.
An important skill for impulse control is the ability to settle down in the face of excitement. There is a lot of value in “installing an off switch” in your dog! It translates into the ability to get your dog to settle on cue even when she is very excited. This is especially useful when you want to let your dog know that an activity or a game has ended. Some high-energy dogs simply don’t know when to stop, and they can keep going long after you’ve already tired of the activity.
An effective way to turn off activity in an action-loving dog is to teach an “all done” cue. This one doesn’t specifically tell the dog what to do – it just signals to her that the activity is over. Use any cue that makes sense to you, such as “All done!” or “That’s all!”.
The sooner you “install” an off-switch in your high-energy, activity-persistent dog, the better. Remember, the longer the reinforcement history for persistence, the more persistent she’ll be.
Start teaching this behavior by engaging in your dog’s favorite activity – say, fetching a ball.
After a reasonable period of fetch time, say “All done!” and put the ball away, out of sight, perhaps in a nearby cupboard.
Give your dog a reasonable alternative that she can do by herself, such as emptying a stuffed Kong.
Go sit down and occupy yourself with something, such as reading a book, watching TV, or web-surfing.
Ignore any attempts on your dog’s behalf to re-engage you, such as going to the cupboard and barking, or bringing you a different toy. Don’t even repeat your off-switch cue, just ignore her.
Warn all other nearby humans to similarly ignore her attempts to engage them in activity when she’s been given the “All done” cue.
Be prepared to quietly (so as not to get her aroused again) praise her when she finally lies down and starts to chew on the stuffed Kong.
Use your off-switch cue every time you end a play session with her favorite activity, and don’t give in if she persists. The more consistent you are, the sooner you will see her resign herself to the fact that the fun really is over when you say it is.
If your dog does not like to fetch a ball, try another similar “get excited and settle” game such as running around together with a stop and settle. Or, play tug-and-drop, or try playing with a flirt pole (a toy on the end of a rope, which is fastened to a pole) to get your dog running, and then incorporate the stop and settle.
Looking for more ways to teach your high-energy dog to chill out and relax? With Calm Down Rover from Whole Dog Journal, you’ll have instant access to vital training techniques. We all owe it to our dogs to understand why they act the way they do.
I’ve had a number of older owners book lessons with me lately—more than half a dozen individuals and couples in their 70s and even 80s, all wanting some training help with their new dogs or puppies.
